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Messages - Udeson

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1
Hi Serge_K, the pistons are the ones inside the calipers. The levers don’t have pistons; they have membranes that hold the mineral oil and allow it to be pushed into the hoses to close the calipers. Are these the parts the mechanic told you were faulty?
It also happens with Shimano that these membranes can fail, especially if you try to push the caliper pistons back in without opening the bleed screw on the lever to let the air escape.
The same thing happened to me when I was younger: I damaged the diaphragm of a brake lever on my scooter while retracting the piston to change the pads.

EDIT: I said something wrong at the beginning — there is a piston in the lever as well.

The cylinder on the shifter also have a (one) piston. When you press the lever the lever moves the piston of the cylinder to build-up pressure pushing the oil to the pistons of the caliper. Maybe it is just a wording thing here and some would call it rod but piston... Just want to clarify that there is a moving mechanical part in the cylinder which could be a possible cause for problems.

2
mashiro2004 wants to run a bigger cassette with a 50-34t chainring setup. Swapping from the stock 11/12t to 11/11t allows the bigger cassette without using a longer chain. Doing so can affect shift performance.

That's what I said :-) It only makes sense for this case. If you setup your bike build for the first time you do not need to change wheels as you can adapt chain length right from the start fitting your setup. I only want to avoid misunderstanding that someone thinks swaping of pulley wheels in general is performance boost :-)

3
You can buy 12 speed Shimano pulley wheels, but I'm using 11 speed Ultegra pulley wheels with a 12 speed chain and no issues.  :)

You can use the stock LTwoo pulley wheels if you want, but from my experience it will require a slightly longer which causes issues with shifting and possible chain drop.

Changeing pulley wheels in my opinion is only needed when you change your running system to larger cassettes or sprockets to compensate the change of chain length. Performance/quality wise I see no reason to do it.

4
@Serge_K I found the post from the user who had the same issue, his nickname is @Udeson and the post is this one: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4242.msg97324.html#msg97324
Maybe he might be able to share some additional info.

I had a bit of wildfurthcer discussions witht the AE shop. In the end I bought another cylinder for only the shipping cost. The cylinder (I only swaped that part, not the whole shifter) I got from this order had no problems with the membrane.

I also managed to get the first replacment to work, simply openend the cylinder, cleaned everything and adjust membrane back in place and screw lid back on, than die the standard bleeding procedure. I also had my probems to get all air out of the system. Bleed port on the caliper needs to be the lowest point while bleeding. And for myself I found it easier to work with two syringes instead of one and the oil container funnel for the top on the shifter. And don't forget to loose the smal screw - the one that moves the lever position - in the shifters lever (you will understand why if you had openend the cylinder to fix the membrane position). On my ERX it blocks the bleeding if the screw is not unscrewed a bit.

5
This seller has Ultegra pulley wheels, but Shimano pulley wheels should be easy to find locally from most bike shops:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808722050438.html

Thx for your reply.

Regarding to your link the attached pic should be the Ultegra pulleys from the AE shop. Could you (or someone else) explain to me the narrow-wide teeth profile, as I do not see any differences on the wheels. My understanding is that narrow-wide means an alternating teeth width and not longer/short teeth or gaps between teeths, is this correct?

EDIT: Could 11t narrow-wide pulleys exists at all due to the even tooth count?

Another thing I do not understand is why changing the lower (tension) pulley has effect on better performance with larger cassettes (>32t)?
My original lower pulley (12t) has a diameter of 51/52mm the lower ultegra one (11t) is 45/46mm...So how does this bring the RD's cage closer to the cassette?

Maybe someone can push me in the right direction here :-)

Thx :-)

6
Hey Fellows,

Can someone pls help me finding the right 11t pulley wheels having the wide-narrow profile, I have only found Ultrega 11t with normal profile...

Thx in advance :-)

7
Hey Fellows,

I've finally managed to install my purchased ERX groupset.
I bled the brakes as described in the instructions. Everything's fine on the right brake lever. The left brake lever looks like it's leaking out from the upper locking bolt on lever. You can see the mineral oil seeping out.
Additionally, the pin/piston in the brake lever (I think it is called master cylinder) is making a smacking noise (this isn't the case with the right brake lever) - see video attached.
Do you guys have any similar experience and/or way of explaining how, or if it's even possible to repair it?

If it is not repairable, are the shiftet / levers of the ERX interchangeable with ER9 or ER7 versions and where to get this as separate spare parts?


Thanks for your help in advance.

After much back and forth with the dealer, I finally received a (paid) replacement cylinder.

It arrived today and is exhibiting the following behavior (see video attached). I haven't completely removed the old cylinder from the handle yet, but it seems like this is the cause of the oil leak. What's your opinion on this? Is this normal behavior for the cylinder, or should there be no oil leakage at all?



8
I'm looking for a crankset that works well with the Ltwoo ER9 v3.0 and will allow me to easily install a Magene P515 spider in the future, for example. I also care about how it looks — I want something that looks good. Does anyone have a proven setup?

I went with a Senicxs PR3 https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005817407755.html because chainline of 43,5mm seems to be a good match with specs for my ERX v3. But I do not know if it will fit your Magene Powermeter spider....

9
Just stick with Shimano's configuration. 11t narrow/wide upper, 11t regular lower.

Run a Shimano chain, cassette, jockey wheels and chainring if you want the closest setup to Shimano-like shifting.  :)

Do you have Shimano pulleys with narrow/wide teeth? My Ultegra ones do have the normal, non altering teeth width...

10
Hey fellows,

Read through the thread but still confused on swapping RD pulleys. Can some pls sum up the right setting for me?

- Stock config is upper pulley 11 teeth and lower pulley with narrow/wide 12t teeth.
- In which order I need to replace the pulleys? Stock upper with Shimano lower (with longer teeth, but no wide/narrow) and vice versa, or only the lower stock pulley with 11t Shimano lower pulley?

Thx guys for your help!

11
Do you guys know if the master cylinders (of the levers, not the calipers) of the brake levers are interchangeable so I can swap e.g. left with right one?

Do you think the cylinders of ER9, ER7 or other ltwoo hydraulic brakes are compatible to the ERX ones?


Since I got no advancing reply (for my problem described here) from ltwoo support and different AE shop I am thinking to buy a spare brake lever and only switching the master cylinder...

12
Thanks for the tips, I also watched a OSPW install before ripping everything apart which helped 😂.

The original position is like my sketch

Thx for the sketches!

When talking about "7 o'clock position" you are meaning that you are looking into the RD (from back to front), or the other way around? I see a lot of bigger space where the pin has room to move and on space is a bit different and the pin does not move after slide into this position.

When you put RD and cage together do you have the stopper/blocking screw (the one on the cage, not the bolt which fixes the cage to the RD) mounted or do you assemble the screw after bringen tension to the the spring? In which direction do you move the cage to bring tension to the spring (when looking from front to back of the RD), to the left, or right?

And finally how do I know if the tension of the spring is sufficient to have a good chain tension?

BTW: Great thread here!

13
Welp I bought a oversized pulley.
Any idea how to install?
No instructions on their page and support isn't responding 😂

Ltwoo RD doesn't have a big ol single bolt through the RD to remove the lower arm

1. Loose the chain
2. Disassemble the RD and move ot away from the bike (do not forget to unplug power connection)
3. Unscrew the small philipps-head screw on the bottom of the RD (the screw sits approximately at the depth of the groove of the mounting bolt of the RD cage) until it no longer loosens. Press the RD cage towards the RD and pull the srcrew out (if you do not hold the RD cage the spring pumps out the cage and you cannot reconstruct the position of the spring - inside the RD and on which of the three holes the spring was on the RD cage). How do I know? I didn't hold the cage when I removed the screw.

So if there are people here who can remember the original position of the spring inside the RD and in which hole the spring was positioned on the RD cage side... PLS let me know :-)

14
i take password error. everything work but i cannot work the app for fine tunning

Did not find any hint in the manuals how to reset the device pin.
Maybe try to contact lwtwoo's support and share there answer here so everyone can benefit from it.

15
This problem seems unusual so I don't know if you'll find someone who experience the same thing. My best guess solution would be to find the exact screw where the oil is leaking from and try to tighten that down.

The problems source are not the bolts where the oil is leaking to the surface (the bolts itself have no function regarding the oil flow but the mounting of the master cylinder). There is a piston/rod on the master cylinder (talking about the one on the lever not the caliper!) which is pushed into the cylinder when you press the brake lever. This is the moment the smacking sound occurs. Already tried to lubricate the piston/rod, but had no success here...

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