And the final result:

awesome work!

could you explain more on how you filled the holes? I'm considering doing this with my frame as well

I patched them with carbon and epoxy. Than I sanded it and covered in putty and sanded untill smooth.

I recently embarked on a new adventure. After seeing some Insta posts of Ravé Bike https://www.instagram.com/rave.bike/ where he converts bike to full internal, I wanted to try this myself, just for fun...
I decided to also remove all the mounting points I did not use. These include: 2 points on the top tube, one between the chainstays, 5 rack mounts in the back. Since I ride 1x11, the front derailleur exit also had to disappear. On the fork the hole on the side for the brake cable had to go and the 3 mounting points on each side were removed along with a mount for a fender.

I drilled out the rivnuts and filled the holes with carbon. Afterwards I used putty to clean everything up on the part of the bike that stays black and used transparant filler on the parts that will stay visible carbon. I sanded the back side to bare carbon because that part will stay visible under the clear.

After finishing the sanding, I gave everything a last transparant filler layer and sanded it the last time with 600 grit.

For the internal cabling part I stole the concept from Ravé Bike. I made my own carbon plug that goes in the steerer with epoxy. I drilled 2 holes in the steerer where the cable will go in and out. I also had to drill the cable sleeve in the fork to get the front brake cable to enter the steerer. I reinforced the bottom of the steerer with 3 layers of carbon before drilling the cable exit.

That's the state of the frame for the moment. I plan to build a DIY paint tent next week and hopefully will be able to paint everything next weekend. The front part will get burnt copper metallic and the rear will stay clear. The entire frame will also get a layer of a golden mica/pearl over the base coat and before the clear.

Oh yeah, aI also made a carbon cover for the bottom of the frame (the original is plastic).
Handlebar and seatpost will be painted in the burnt orange and cranks have been sanded and will be painted clear.

To answer the most obvious question: "yes I know this can be dangerous, but critical locations are reinforced, so I don't see much of a problem".

There are too much pictures to share here, so please visit this folder for the pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3djodAWJ3smmAVRN8

Your bike looks great but that cover is just horrific.

Oh my... I had no idea people could get so offended by a piece or rubber... 

Thank you for contributing.
So you would deem the R180 ultra  reliable hubs?
If you search the internet, there are a lot of allegedly cons to be found: a lack of stiffness of the hub body, very small bearings with a short life span, and the risk of ratchet teeth shearing off.

Since I build my own wheels, I like to and can take risks... Bearings in modern hubs are easy to replace, so I don't really care about lifespan of those. Ratchets can be replaced for cheap these days and since I rarely go over 800W peak, lack of stiffness is of no concern to me

Hello everyone,
I’m considering getting a lightweight road bike for Alpine marathon events. I’m currently torn between the Winspace SLC 3.0 and the LTK266-D-SL (my current favorite).
Are there any long-term experiences with the LTK266, especially with a rider weight of around 80–85 kg?
Many thanks in advance and best regards,
Andy

70kg and 1100km. Absolutely no problems to report...

I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.

I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.

I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.

I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.

I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?

Check if the rear derailleur hanger is till tight. This has caused creaking on my bikes a couple of times...

Yeah, the threading for the bottom bracket on the right side became loose, got a lot of radial play..


Seems like universe wants to punish me for buying chinese fakes

I had the same happen to my Hygge frame. It's actually fairly easy to fix yourself if you're not afraid to tackle that kind of job.
I took out the sleeve, cleaned everything very good and used 2K glue (of a very good brand) to glue it back in.