Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.

I tried these one as well, was not a great fit

Hi guys,

Got a 268 on order - hopefully arriving soon! Have been running the 086-D for the past 3 years and have done 10,000km on it. Slipping seatpost seems to have been the only issue but good enough to persuade me to buy another VB frame.

I've noticed this frame comes with the Mavic Speed Release system (whyyyyy???) and was wondering if these can be replaced with standard thru-axles, obviously with the correct matching thread? I will be using this bike on and off the turbo this winter and it sounds like a bit of a faff with this system unless you buy a replacement set. On that note - are there any UK distributors of matching axles I can order before it turns up?

I've also ordered an SL7 replica expander plug, and will be running SRAM AXS parts that are on my current build. Any other suggestions of things I should puchase/know before building the bike?

Thanks in advance

I was also frustrated with the SpeedRelease system. To be fair I works fine, but makes absolutely no sense when we already got a nice working industry standard. I almost bought an 168 just of this reason. If the threads line up with normal TA's I can't se why a normal 12 mm axle wouldn't fit. Maybe you can just order another set Speedrelease-axles from Velobuild? I built two 268's, could only fit a SL7-expander plug in one of the frames, as it was way way to tight in one of the frames and almost got completely stuck in the steerer tube, so fitted a traditional 80 mm Pro expander in that particular bike - instead of the 30 mm included. Be aware that the carbon rail specific seat clamps only fit up to 9 mm "high" rails, my Ryet carbon saddle (Pro Stealth II knock off) had 11 mm high rails that I had to file down. You might need som Di2 grommets for the cable exit ports on the frame. Cheers

I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.

I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.

Nice build. I'm not impressed with the included headset-plug, if it keeps getting loose I would try with a longer one.

No, unfortunately, the nut side is round, and once the thread is at the point of engaging, it's already past flush to get another tool in. A real dumb piece of engineering by Velobuild. About to just part it off and buy a complete build as I'm out of time to prep for a trip next week.

Both of mine also have hex heads, weird..

Hey Guys,

My VBR 268 glossy grey is in transit and also my elite wheel 55mm wheels

Quistion: What could be headache to build this bike?
What kind of problems can i aspect?

Im going for a SRAM RIVAL ETAP AXS group.

Will put down some pictures asap.

I didn't have any headaches with the build, but you might consider buying af longer headset extender plug.  Cable routing was inproblematic and facing of the brake caliber mounting to the frame seems good as well. Remember to buy rubber grommets for the cable exit ports as they are not included.

This is very helpful information. What is the min / max saddle height on your 56 size frame?

Minimum distance from BB to top of saddle = 70 cm (67 cm from BB to center of saddle rails) - but you could cut the seat post to get even lower.
Maximum distance depends on the minimum amount of seatpost inside the frame you want, of course. But the distance from BB to top of the seat tube is 49 cm and the length of seat post + saddle is 39 cm = 88 cm. I would say that you probably want at least 7 cm within the seat tube = 81 cm as maximum saddle height from BB to top of saddle (or 78 cm to center part of where the seat clamp grabs the rails).

The reason why the minimum saddle height is not lower on the 54 cm is probably due to an identical placement of the rear wheel cut out in the seat tube (which is the limiting factor of how deep the seatpost can go)

Thanks for the post. Looks great! Even considering this color now over pearl white (with black custom decals). I think I need a 54 frame as well. Could you let me know how tall your friend is (i know, not the only relevant metric).

Also got a few questions:
What is de weight of those wheels? I think I'll get wheels less wide (lighter?).
How hard was the build?
Is this the standard handlebar from Velobuild?

Kind regards!

Thanks for your comment. The chameleon pops quite a bit in the sun, just so you are aware. The other one in blue chameleon does as well, probably a bit more disco vibe than expected, but you only live once

My friend is 180 cm, long torso. Stack of the frame is pretty aggressive as you can see by the number of spacers he needed to get a comfortable position. I have bought af 56 cm for myself (187 cm).
The wheel set weighs 1420g without rim tape, tolerances seems very nice, end caps are a really good snug fit. The standard ones are fairly wide compared to others, 21 internal and 28 internal, so would not be a bad choice as well, and you can get them a bit deeper than the 45 mm's also. The build proces was not that hard, but probably way worse if you are to route mechanical gear. Cut the steerer 6 mm below the stem. Did all wiring without a routing tool and didn't really need it. The handlebar is the standard one, yes. 400/100 mm, but the reach seems a bit longer as the hood-position extends a bit further from where the stem "ends".

cheers

I used the expander with the parts that were delivered with the frame. Works fine, clocked 1k km without issues.

Thank you