I think there isn't any clear-cut answer. Some prefer grease, some anti-sieze, some retaining compound - as long as you are using any of these options and not pressing it in dry, you should be fine. Same applies for bike's bottom bracket 

I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.

I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.

Quote from: 2Burgen on August 06, 2024, 03:37:15 AM
I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.

I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.

2Bergen,

Congrats! Very nice build and love the colors you choose. Enjoy it.

2Burgen....what bars did you go with? How tall are you and what frame size did you go with?

Since I am 1,90 m tall and was allways riding a 58 I went with a 58. Reach is 10 mm more than my old bike so I took a 1 cm shorter stem with 110 mm.

I worked out.

Quote from: 2Burgen on August 06, 2024, 03:37:15 AM
I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.

I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.

Nice build. I'm not impressed with the included headset-plug, if it keeps getting loose I would try with a longer one.

IMHO the headset should be held together by the stem and nut by the plug. So that would be the bad part. In the 90'ies so would remove the starnut and the cover to save weight.

No, the top cap and bold are "just" to pre-load the headset bearings. Once you tighten the stem bolts, those will be holding it all in place.

Technically, you could still remove the top cap and bolt, like you did in the 90s. Would still not recommend, since it leaves you with an ugly hole and potentially water/dirt ingress

Quote from: trytogo on August 08, 2024, 10:21:32 AM
Mehhhh more problems, headset is also loose after more rides.

Considering, stripping the parts frame and getting something else at this point.

What size? I may be interested.

Rode 80 km today and everything is tight. I have hope.

Now done with my second 268 build. This time the bike is for me.

Frame: Velobuild 268 size 56, color: blue chameleon with glossy black inside of fork and rear triangle
Bar/stem: Velobuild integrated 100/400 mm.
Saddle: Ryet 3D mesh (Pro Stealth II knock off)
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 R7150, 52/36 - 11-34. 170 mm.
Wheels: EliteWheels Edge Gravel 45 mm. 24 mm internal, 31 mm external
Tyres: Continental GrandPrix 5000 in 28 mm (measure 29,5 mm on the wide rims)
Tubes: RideNow TPU 36g

Weight 7,75 kg w/o pedals.

Thoughts
Happy with the overall result. Had problems with installing the SL7-headset expander plug I bought, so will try a normal 80 mm instead, right now I just fitted the included expander plug. Saddle rails are too high (11 mm) for the clamps so the fit is not great. Might try to sand the rails down a bit. Perhaps I should have gone a bit deeper on the wheels, but wanted to try a wide set, and couldn't get them deeper than 45 mm.

Quote from: 2Burgen on August 07, 2024, 09:15:33 AM
Since I am 1,90 m tall and was allways riding a 58 I went with a 58. Reach is 10 mm more than my old bike so I took a 1 cm shorter stem with 110 mm.

I worked out.

What is your bottom bracket to seat height?

Quote from: RasmusWH on August 07, 2024, 02:22:17 PM
Nice build. I'm not impressed with the included headset-plug, if it keeps getting loose I would try with a longer one.

Its garbage i bought a better one from pro its 30 euro. Also got that as tip from somebody else on the forum. My boke is almost done.

Anybody replaced the headset bearings and spacers with original SL7 ones?!

Or any other brand?

Is this a knock-of frame? Wondering as I wouldn't want to go with that anymore (168 being the sl7 as a comparison)