well, I'm also 181cm tall and the saddle height is 82cm, I also have long legs and a short torso, but I've never gone down from a size XL, except for a look 595 15 years ago, which I bought in size L.
medium size would be impossible for me and also for a professional cyclist. you would have a difference in height of 15/17 cm saddle / handlebars.
unless you put 6/7cm of spacers on the handlebars.
terrible

Mines coming together finally, took inspiration from the naked clear coated one from sites earlier, but went without logo.



Still waiting for the flat mount spacer up front end weight will be likely 7.8ish kg.

For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.

I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.

It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.

Advise me please, my roadie elders.

Quote from: volan on October 28, 2024, 03:38:01 PM
For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.

I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.

It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.

Advise me please, my roadie elders.

I have not build up this frame, but others. 2 tips:
1. search youtube for cable routing through the bars. Very good tutorials
2. Use a routing kit for the frame. When I first did my Hygge frame I thought I could do it without the routing kit. After struggling with it for an hour I finally grabbed the routing kit and after a few minutes it was done.

Quote from: Serge_K on October 29, 2024, 04:46:07 AM
Obviously, you can't do it without a bike stand, and even then, you'll probably need tools like a routing kit (5 bucks), fine picks and files (ditto).

My method Ive developed always works and I pass 4 cable through in less than an hour with really no equipment. I begin by shoving the cable through from the back of the bike and keep jamming the cable in until it shows up out the headset. Now for the handlebars just go ahead and jam the cable in and keep jamming until they appear near the hole, I then use tweezers to extract the cable. You should prebend the cable in the arc you need it to make once its inserted. All that jamming may have mangled the tip of the cable so go ahead and trim it. Not even kidding this is foolproof and doesnt do a bit of damage to frame or bars

Thank you all for advices. How about shifting performance after couple of months of riding? Does it degrade noticably? Because my MTB mechanical xt group literally doesn't need maintenance. It simply shifts. And I do ride it, 5-6 times a week.

Hi, in a few days I will order my 268.
I would like to mount it with 105 mechanical r7120, hydraulic brakes and Elite ent 38mm rims (with upgraded pillar 1420 spokes).
In order not to make mistakes when ordering the rims, can you tell me which options to select between:
Wheel width: 12x100 12x142 or QRx100 QRx135
Wheel depth: SHIMAN0 11S or SRAM XDR 12S
Hub type: Center Lock or 6 Bolt Lock
thanks guys

Quote from: barmo on October 31, 2024, 11:20:25 AM
Hi, in a few days I will order my 268.
I would like to mount it with 105 mechanical r7120, hydraulic brakes and Elite ent 38mm rims (with upgraded pillar 1420 spokes).
In order not to make mistakes when ordering the rims, can you tell me which options to select between:
Wheel width: 12x100 12x142 or QRx100 QRx135
Wheel depth: SHIMAN0 11S or SRAM XDR 12S
Hub type: Center Lock or 6 Bolt Lock
thanks guys

You want 12x100 12x142, SHIMANO 11S, hub type depends on the disc rotors you are going to use, I think r7120 uses center lock but double check

Thank you!
Does anyone know if Velobuild usually has discounts for 11.11 or black friday? 

They had discounts last year.

Quote from: barmo on November 01, 2024, 01:44:24 AM
Thank you!
Does anyone know if Velobuild usually has discounts for 11.11 or black friday? 

Does the 11.11 sale here refer to the sale on Aliexpress? Is it from their own website?

I also seem to struggle with the headset. The long cheapo expander I bought seems solid, but I do wonder whether something else seems to add play like the upper bearing expander ring. Have other experimented with the gap from the expanders top to the edge of the handlebar/stem top?


Can others actually get the bearings to bind when tightening? Mine doesn't ever, even when I tighten the top bolt to crazy levels.

Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:

Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes

I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.

Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:

- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.

- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?

Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!

Quote from: Tilmanstoa5ty on November 01, 2024, 06:30:04 AM
Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:

Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes

I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.

Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:

- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.

- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?

Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!

1: I didn't have that problem. I too run Di2. If yours are too tight I would probably use af Dremel.
2: I just bought some "Di2 grommets rubber plug" from "Pandabicycles store" on AliExpress. 8 mm. For the rear. Haven't found a good solution for the front derailleur Di2-cable as the hole is rectangular and the cable comes out in 45 degrees. Perhaps I will just give it some liquid electrical tape or silicone.

Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.