Jake, from all the pictures you posted at
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,221.0.htmlI think we have exactly the same frame.
For the shifter I took another route.
I wanted the nice SRAM hose provided with the XX1 groupset intact from the derailleur to the shifter.
WARNING. Even if I discussed on mtbr with someone who did that on its 27.5" version of the frame.
This is not for the faint-hearted and do that at your own risks.
At some point I thought damn! Some folks in this forum were right: that was a terrible idea.
But it all ended well with the technique below.
You need to have the BB shell empty to do this.
Here is the frame, before the "combat". On my custom stand.
1) Entering the hose from the rearThe rear hole is tiny and on a carbon part.
Because of the seat stays, there is no room to use a drill.
Start with a 3mm drill bit, or smaller if you have.
Manually and very gently. Never forcing as the carbon is very brittle and could probably break if you force it, be patient.
Then use a 3.5mm, then 4. And finally a 4.5mm, this is enough to pass the SRAM hose (without the end-cap).
May be there are tools to make this much easier, but I didn't have any and wanted to limit the risk of breaking something.
Be sure to evacuate the carbon debris regularly.
Go back with a smaller drill bit if the hole is clogged.
I was wearing a good painter mask when doing this.
Carbon dust is not friend with the lungs.
2) Pass the hose from the rear to the top of the BB shellEntering the hose in the drilled hole was easy, but getting it to the BB didn't work.
I didn't have any idea how the chainstay was designed inside. Something was blocking it.
That was my "Bad Idea" moment. The rear hole was drilled, so there was no coming back now.
There was hope though. I could push the hose from the BB shell to the end of the chainstay, so there was a path.
I think the blocker is a small pipe that drive the shifter cable if you use the planned route.
I then tried passing the thin shifter cable instead.
Patiently trying to find my way from the rear hole to the BB shell.
To finally see it pointing near the BB shell holes.
Not sure it is needed, but I used a magnet, to make it move up-left-down-right, to find its way in the chainstay.
Once the cable is out on both ends (rear hole, and BB).
Put the hose on the cable from the rear.
The cable will guide the hose in the chainstay.
Pull smoothly the cable from the BB shell to avoid it fold inside the chainstay.
Do that until the hose pass over the top of the BB shell.
3) Through the down tubeDrilling the top hole, is easier. It is an aluminium piece. And there is room for an electric drill.
Do it in the same 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5mm sequence, just to not force anything, and keep the hole centered to the original direction.
The angle gives good clearance, but I did put a tape on the frame to protect it from the drill head.
Remove the shifter cable from the hose.
Enter it in the top hole.
And push it through the down tube, until it arrives at the BB.
Then put the cable in the hose that waits over the BB. As far as you can.
I guess if you have a longer cable than the SRAM one(whole hose length + the length of the down tube + some more), the following step could be much easier.
Then push the hose from the rear hole. The cable will again guide the hose.
Pull gently the shifter cable from the top to avoid it fold inside the down tube.
But not too much to avoid it go out of the hose, and loose the guide.
4) And finally, get the hose out!If you do that very gently, sometimes helping the hose pass better over the BB shell with your fingers.
The hose should arrive around the top hole.
With the cable, try to engage the hose centered to the hole.
A last push, and you should get the house out.
Here is a picture of the end to end shifter hose.
