Carbonda Gravel Carbon frame CFR707

[Stjärtmes]

The thin metal spacers are there to make up for imprecise tolerances in the headset, so that the top cap doesn’t rub on the frame. Typically you use just one, but by nature this will vary from bike to bike. The idea is to have a tiny, ~1mm gap between the top cap and frame but no wider than necessary.

Thanks for the answer!

Alright! So i should use one if i deem it necessary, so far the cap seems to clear with a bit of margin.

Do you know about the headset top cap and if i should use a spacer underneath or if i can clamp it directly on the handlebar/stem combo?

[svanimpe]

Do you know about the headset top cap and if i should use a spacer underneath or if i can clamp it directly on the handlebar/stem combo?

I always just clamp it directly. If you get your math right cutting the fork, there should be a few millimeters between the bottom of the top cap and the top of the expander plug that's sitting in the fork, so you can get a proper preload, and a nice clean look. However, many people put a small spacer underneath, for two reasons:

1. It's easier. You don't have to be as precise in cutting the fork and can just put a bigger spacer in case you need more space for preloading.
2. Technically, it's safer, as it better aligns the clamping force of the stem with the support given by the expander plug. Without a spacer, the top of the stem is clamping an area that's less supported. However, if you use a torque wrench, you should be fine. I've never actually seen this being an issue in real life.

[Stjärtmes]

I always just clamp it directly. If you get your math right cutting the fork, there should be a few millimeters between the bottom of the top cap and the top of the expander plug that's sitting in the fork, so you can get a proper preload, and a nice clean look. However, many people put a small spacer underneath, for two reasons:

1. It's easier. You don't have to be as precise in cutting the fork and can just put a bigger spacer in case you need more space for preloading.
2. Technically, it's safer, as it better aligns the clamping force of the stem with the support given by the expander plug. Without a spacer, the top of the stem is clamping an area that's less supported. However, if you use a torque wrench, you should be fine. I've never actually seen this being an issue in real life.

Okay great, thanks for the answer.

I found the top part of the stem/handlebar combo a bit rough and could not fit a spacer in there properly. Might go for the spacerless option

[uilewuit]

Quick non-drive-side picture of my fully integrated 707.
Super happy with how it rides.

Only minor downside is keeping the headset tight.
I can tighten it up without issues, but always seems to come loose again after a certain amount of time.

[jannmayer]

I've taken my 707 on a few rides so far and am very impressed. With 700c x 50 Maxis Ramblers, it handles rough terrain pretty well. The steering is pretty quick so it's easy to adjust your line, but it does need a bit more attention to keep it where you want it.


I have Shimano GRX 2x with the 46/30 crankset and an 11-46 cassette. The shifting isn't as good as my road bike with 105 and an 11-34 cassette, but it works, and I go up just about anything.


I'm looking forward to exploring more of the trails around here. I also plan on building up a lighter wheelset with tires that are a bit faster on the pavement, so that should speed my rides up a bit.

[svanimpe]

I have Shimano GRX 2x with the 46/30 crankset and an 11-46 cassette. The shifting isn't as good as my road bike with 105 and an 11-34 cassette, but it works, and I go up just about anything.

What rear derailleur are you using? The Shimano one is only rated up to a max cog of 42 and a max capacity of 31. Yours would need to handle a 51 teeth difference...

[jannmayer]

What rear derailleur are you using? The Shimano one is only rated up to a max cog of 42 and a max capacity of 31. Yours would need to handle a 51 teeth difference...

I have the Shimano GRX RD-RX810, which is the version for 2x drivetrains. Officially, it only fits 34T max. I'm using a WolfTooth Roadlink DM to get clearance from the 46T cog. I also replaced the lower pully wheel with a 16T pully. This essentially lengthens the derailleur cage and increases the capacity a bit. The 16T pully wheel just barely fits in the stock cage.


While the shifting isn't as fast as a more conventional setup, every gear combination is usable. I suspect that you could fit an even larger cassette if you adjust the B-screw, but then you'll run into capacity problems. (It may be possible to remove that little tab on the end of the cage and then fit an even larger pully wheel, but I haven't tried this.)

[2old2mould]

Absolutely beautiful, thanks for sharing!
 Did you get Carbonda to apply the decals (meaning they are under the clear coat)?
How was communication and shipping?

Looking forward to some build details of that yellow rocket. 

Apologies for late response (somehow the site doesn't send notifications).

Carbonda provided the decals but I gave them instructions on a powerpoint as to what, where etc... The font is BERLIN which I had to download. The graphics look much better on the 707 than on the 1056 I also ordered.

Communication frequency and response times were very good, however some things did need restating as they seemed to get lost in translation, including my address which they seemed to think was somewhere in Germany which caused a minor panic after the shipping label had been sent to me.

Shipping itself was actually pretty good although the tracking was almost useless. No taxes to pay which is always a bonus.

My experience was that you need to be super-specific about what you want, right down to decal size, font, placement etc. Best thing to do is to put it on a powerpoint deck so you can show exactly where you want things to go, and be quite clear about colours and sizes etc.

Since receiving the frame I have been umming, and ahhing about what groupset to put on it. I have a Tiagra/GRX 400 mix which was going to go on there, but now I think I'll go for a Campag Potenza HO groupset with a Praxis Zayante M30 48/32 chainset. I don't think for my riding that I'll need a 46/30 and 48/31 just seems weird. The lowest gear Campag do on 11x is 32t so a 32 x 32 gives plenty of range while keeping a reasonable top end. I can't understand 46 x 11 at all, but maybe because I live in an area of the UK that is pan flat.

I hope to have the build completed by the middle of Oct. I'll have to get the cabling sorted as I am terrible with internal routing.

[Dave TN]

Long time lurker, second time poster. I just received paint proofs from Katie at Carbonda. Ordered with an FM 1003 frame to save on shipping. Looking forward to putting it all together in the coming weeks. Will be running GRX 800 (x2) with 11-34 cassette, DT Swiss 350 hubs and DT Swiss TK 540s (wish I would have bought Spank Wing 22s but already had the TK 540s for another build that never came to fruition). I went with the full internal cable routing. Also, I borrowed the paint scheme (but not the colors) from one of you on the forum so thanks and my apologies. Remember: imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I was going for the 1968 Ford GT 40 color scheme. Close enough for me.

[acedeuce802]

Glad my paint scheme was likable enough to be copied, looks awesome!

[diefobo]

I just put down a deposit for the frame version that takes an externally routed handlebar (US$495.00 with frame, fork, seat post, clamp). Sharing the diagram Wing sent me that shows the routing. Getting a headset for regular round spacers. Oh, and the flatmount bolts in the rear should be for 20mm chainstay width (so, 33mm).

By the way, interesting to see how close the geo is to the Canyon Grizl and Devinci Hatchet. Excited for some more modern geo & axle standards for my current gravel bike (built around an octane one kode frame, which has been fun but a bit limited).

(It's US$650.00 with the CGB02 integrated handlebar.)

Someone knows if the external routing is made by drilling the internal routed frame?

[jannmayer]

Someone knows if the external routing is made by drilling the internal routed frame?

There is a hole on each side of the downtube for the cable entries. It appears that it is just drilled in the side, although I didn't check to see if there were additional carbon layers inside to strengthen it. The outside surface is smooth around the hole, unlike the CFR696 and many other frames designed for external routing.

[s3si1u]

Quick non-drive-side picture of my fully integrated 707.
Super happy with how it rides.

Only minor downside is keeping the headset tight.
I can tighten it up without issues, but always seems to come loose again after a certain amount of time.

If you search the road bike forum there's a big thread regarding this exact headset issue.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3781.msg38090.html#msg38090
It seems to be very common with internally routed carbon frames and there's many ways to troubleshoot it. I've had issues with headset play as well, this thread is a good place to start.

[coffeebreak]

I am probably overthinking this but here is my quandary. I want "somewhat" clean look, in the sense that I do want internal cable routing but not all the way. I don't want to use integrated bar-stem that Carbonda sells with 707 but rather a separate stem and handlebar. From handlebar I wish to externally route cables into the stem, then into fork and frame to their respective destinations. In short the handlebar is external routing and rest is internal. Am I making myself clear or is it even possible? I sent this query to Wing and he sent me CAD diagrams of two different forks a)external routing where I can see there is a hole on the side of one of the arms of the fork. b) internal routing fork which has a hole in the middle of the fork stem.
Along with that he sent 3 different top cap pictures, one doesn't seem to have any holes in it while other two have holes. One of the holed topcap is "FSA standard" and other one is just 4 holes next to each other.
I haven't ordered yet but as a precaution added all three top caps ($5/ea anyway) to my quote along with fork with hole in the middle  What else do I need to add.. spacers with similar holes for cables in them? I see that Velobuild sells GF-002 frame with independent stem/bar and is still able to hide cables also a user report confirmed that who built GF-002. Checked with Wing and he said they don't sell any such stem that allows internal routing.

Quick non-drive-side picture of my fully integrated 707.

[carbonazza]

Finally I was able to build the two chameleon colored 707, mainly for parts availability, and... lack of time.
Here is the first one with:
Rival AXS shifters, Force crank, GX AXS rear derailleur.
With a CGB01 handlebar with FSA ACR stem.
And Lightbicycle wheels.

There wasn't any problem to report for the build.
Carbonda's quality at its best.
I didn't weight it, but it just feels heavier than I thought it would be.