FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame

[Julian]

Kinematic analysis and "corrections" to the geometry chart.
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/8-linkage-check-fly-bike-fm1156.html

Suggestion for shock
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/17-linkage-welch-art-von-luft-oder.html

Found these browsing the interweb so not my analysis. Not sure if this has been posted here already.
TLDR:

• Pretty flat leverage curve.
• Relatively low antisquat.
• The blogger suggests Megneg shock
• Geo chart isn't quite accurate.

Not sure if you can trust this one... He seems to use the diagram from the geo chart, which would be very unreliable.

I used the vector graphic sent to me from carbonda and got very different results, especially concerning anti squat and head angle.

Here's a screenshot. I put in a 30t chain ring as well and the same Center of Gravity at 650 above the BB, since that affects the anti squat greatly.

[helmat]

Thanks, your values look much better.
You assumed a CG of 650mm above BB with a S size frame and he used 650 for an M size. Shouldn't your CG be a tad bit lower which would result in even better values? Or am I getting something wrong here?

[Julian]

No, you're right. Smaller frame = (usually) shorter rider = lower CoG. I just used 650mm to make the results comparable

Edit: btw, the size M frame will even have a slightly higher anti squat. Small difference though.

[vidlee]

It doesn't fit on the FM1002, which has the same suspension design. The non-trunnion side that sticks up is too big and hits the frame on the seat tube.

From Carbonda:



Anyone actually try this shock (obviously a trunnion style, instead of pictured)?

[Jotegr]

I can't recommend anyone try an X2 to be honest. Reliability is a SERIOUS concern, and as someone with both an X2 and a 2022 Float X (having traded them back and forth on the same bike), as well as a Super Deluxe Ultimate Air on another bike..... On an FM1001, do yourself a favour and dodge the X2.


The X2's reliability is worsened when frames have worse alignment. YMMV with chiners, although Carbonda is one of the better ones out there!

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Personally I’d suggest a DVO Topaz or Topaz G3. They’ll pro-level custom tune it for you for $100 extra, which is practically unheard of in the industry.

Been very happy with a stock Topaz on my 1002, but I have a feeling a custom tune would unlock some additional plushness in this case.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Any time I’ve seen someone switch from an X2 to a Topaz, they were consistently very pleased with the difference. Excellent combination of plushness and support. None missed the extra damping adjustability, interestingly enough - partly because the adjustable bladder pressure replaces some of that, and partly because the unique Topaz damper is “floating” in a way that self-adjusts based on air pressure/rider weight, bladder pressure and sag %.

[helmat]

does anyone know what the maximum dropper post insertion for a XL frame is?

[Neb]

I wasn't able to fully insert my oneup 210mm dropper post into a large fm1001 frame. About 25mm was left. There should be enough length, but there was some carbon left as part of the manufacture that prevented it going in any further.

[brunev]

does anyone know what the maximum dropper post insertion for a XL frame is?

Around 265 mm on my XL frame (OneUp 180mm just about fits showing <5mm seatpost under the collar).

[helmat]

thanks, if it's indeed 265mm then I should be able to fit the 210mm OneUp post on the XL frame and there still is the option to shim it down 20mm if it doesn't work out

[helmat]

After exchanging a few messages with Wing I've finally ordered my 1001 (and a 707, but that's a different story). Really looking forward to build the bikes.
Now painting, shipping and some shopping. Even though the 1001 will mostly use parts from my current bike. I've already ordered the shock, a new dropper and the air shaft to extend my Fox 34 to 140mm. Almost everything else will be switched over.

[bossman302]

Hey everyone, wanted to re-visit the topic of bearings for this frame. I have been able to identify all the bearings used on this frame. Below are the bearings/quantity

Rocker arm pivot/main chain stay pivot:
F6902-EA - x4. This is a flanged bearing

Seat stay/Chain stay pivots:
F6901 - x8. This is a flanged bearing

Lower shock mount:
6801 - x2

As of right now Enduro carries the f6902-EA and the 6801. Currently they do not carry the F6901. The good news is I have exchanged some emails with Enduro, and it looks like they will be adding the F6901 to the catalog. No ETA but sounds like they will have the standard version and the MAX version.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

My plan for my 1002 (identical linkage) after its first full riding season and 725 hard miles was to replace the main pivot and rocker arm main bearing, then inspect the other smaller bearings and just grease them if no wear or play was apparent. Ideally I’d just replace the whole set to be completely sure any rear end flex or creaking isn’t related to bearing wear.

Is there another vendor folks would suggest for the F6901s? I constantly test that frame’s limits and if I can’t get Enduro Max soon enough (within 4-5 months from now), I’d like to get the next best thing.

Also, what’s the significance of these being flanged bearings? I’ve never replaced my own suspension bearings before but I do have a press for the job, and am wondering if this changes much or anything about what I’d have to do to get the job done without damaging the frame.

[bossman302]

My plan for my 1002 (identical linkage) after its first full riding season and 725 hard miles was to replace the main pivot and rocker arm main bearing, then inspect the other smaller bearings and just grease them if no wear or play was apparent. Ideally I’d just replace the whole set to be completely sure any rear end flex or creaking isn’t related to bearing wear.

Is there another vendor folks would suggest for the F6901s? I constantly test that frame’s limits and if I can’t get Enduro Max soon enough (within 4-5 months from now), I’d like to get the next best thing.

Also, what’s the significance of these being flanged bearings? I’ve never replaced my own suspension bearings before but I do have a press for the job, and am wondering if this changes much or anything about what I’d have to do to get the job done without damaging the frame.

I was unable to find anything other than a generic bearings. Probably the same bearing that in the frame now. The indication I got from the rep was the non-MAX version would be available in less than a month and the MAX version would be a "few months".

Since it was raining all last weekend I ended up partially taking apart the rear triangle to verify what bearings were there. When inspecting the bearings both the F6902 and F6901 were still spinning smoothly. This is after putting 795 miles on the frame. I wont say I'm hard on this bike but the majority of those miles is going through rock gardens. I'm confident these will last for a while but I still plan on buying a full set of Enduro bearing once the F6901 MAX version in available. The only bearing that I have to absolutely replace are the 6801s. When I serviced the shock back in June the were crunchy and when I service the shock last weekend they are pretty much toast.