The rear brake fits a 180mm rotor? Is the Zeb a 180mm as well? I'm still waiting on adapters and CL lock rings for my hubs so haven't tried fitting anything yet. Was originally going to go with 203mm CL rotors but didn't notice they were thicker than normal and not sure they will work with the Shimano 4 pot brakes. I also have some 180mm 6 bolt and some adapters to run on CL and then wouldn't need the adapters to run 203. Either way I'm still waiting on CL lock rings that got used on another wheelset at some point.
Do you plan on sticking with 180 or think you may go bigger? I've never ran bigger than 180 but at times have felt like they would be nice especially in the front. If the brakes have good modulation is there any down side other than weight?
Zeb is a minimum 200mm and I had to shim it up for the Shimano 203mm. 180mm rear though, I usually start trail/enduro bikes with 203/203 and end up dropping the rear down to 180 because I just skid. This frame may be different, if so it would give me the excuse to upgrade to new XTR rotors
As a reference I'm built like a larger, much older, Richie Rude with none of his talent... 187cm 97.5kg or 6'1.5" and 215lbs in freedom units. I usually have a hip pack or full low slung backpack, depending on how long the ride will be, adding another few kg.
Also, I finally weighed mine and it's around 12.9 kg. From lifting it up I thought it was lighter and can see how it could get to 15 pretty easy with some more heavy duty parts. I was hoping for a final weight about where I am now but that's not going to happen, though I went with value and didn't pay much attention to weight so can't complain. My large frame was 2435g which isn't all that much heavier than more XC FS frames.
I figured the frame would weight more, seems like they would have to use a lot of carbon to get that shape. I'm no CF aficionado but if I had to guess they actually used more, or all, T1000 then some of my older T700 and T800 frames. Although they are also very light they are smaller by volume if that makes sense.
Definitely could have squeezed out some grams by going to a lighter fork and components but the weight also helps a little when heading downhill. I think the fork will last longer since I'm, most likely, done racing as I usually have to do a 200 hour maintenance every season. That isn't uncommon around the northeastern USA. It is also doubtful a carbon crankset would last me a season or that would have been where I started, crank and pedal strike city - I'll post some closeups of my previous crankset and pedals
Might trickle down the GX gear eventually for X01 AXS and X01 or XX1 cassette, I'm also eyeing up some carbon wheels even though I've recommended against them for quite some time.
As it is pretty complete I will weight it again today to see how thicc this boi is.
Let us know what you think once you start getting more time on it! Would also be curious to hear what your coming from.
Sorry for rambling so much in your thread... 
It will get a baptism by fire this weekend if the weather holds. I had to take the super deluxe to a shop because it wouldn't pressurize correctly after I swapped the damper, hopefully they can do better. In the meantime I have a 200x57 Monarch RC3 from the bike this replaced on there and it feels pretty good. It is in desperate need of a service (kit ordered) but it will do for one or two more rides.
If you haven't noticed, I ramble a lot
It is why these threads are here.
I'm coming from an FM356 which was pretty nice if not already outdated when I got it, probably late 2018/early 2019. Cracked the chainstay or I might still be riding it. It is a decent compact race ride even with a Works 2.0 degree angle headset. Here is the before pic -
The fiber fix tape around the crack which is right under the full chain link. It is completely rideable and stiffer than before it was cracked, that tape is pretty amazing.
Some 170mm crank arm rash.
Chunks out of the bash.
Pedals take a beating
