VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[AlessandroEmm]

I also seem to struggle with the headset. The long cheapo expander I bought seems solid, but I do wonder whether something else seems to add play like the upper bearing expander ring. Have other experimented with the gap from the expanders top to the edge of the handlebar/stem top?


Can others actually get the bearings to bind when tightening? Mine doesn't ever, even when I tighten the top bolt to crazy levels.

[Serge_K]

I also seem to struggle with the headset. The long cheapo expander I bought seems solid, but I do wonder whether something else seems to add play like the upper bearing expander ring. Have other experimented with the gap from the expanders top to the edge of the handlebar/stem top?


Can others actually get the bearings to bind when tightening? Mine doesn't ever, even when I tighten the top bolt to crazy levels.

you need to have several mm of space, before you compress the top car, between the steerer and the top of the stem / top cap. it's that space that gets compressed to tighten the column.
if you tighten the top cap endlessly, unscrew and check: the plug probably moved up inside the steerer, instead of compressing the whole system.
If that's the case, then torque the plug more (i routinely do 8-10nm), consider carbon paste (i dont think it helps, but maybe). Do NOT compress to these levels if the steerer is NOT in situ surrounded by the stem, as the steerer deforms and i have no idea how much torque it would take to crack it. But if the stem & bearings are resisting the expansion, you can do 8-10 w/o problems.

If your problem is different, then there's probably something wonky with your setup somewhere else, like spacers contacting the frame when they shouldnt or something like that.

I ought to try picking up a girl at my next date talking about compressing steering columns. Along with different hardness of aluminum, I feel this should be very interesting to ladies.

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:

Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes

I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.

Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:

- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.

- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?

Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!

[RasmusWH]

Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:

Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes

I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.

Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:

- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.

- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?

Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!

1: I didn't have that problem. I too run Di2. If yours are too tight I would probably use af Dremel.
2: I just bought some "Di2 grommets rubber plug" from "Pandabicycles store" on AliExpress. 8 mm. For the rear. Haven't found a good solution for the front derailleur Di2-cable as the hole is rectangular and the cable comes out in 45 degrees. Perhaps I will just give it some liquid electrical tape or silicone.

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.

[fenomeno]

Hi
Do you have any trusted email’s person to contact to velobuild?
Thnaks.

[AlessandroEmm]

you need to have several mm of space, before you compress the top car, between the steerer and the top of the stem / top cap. it's that space that gets compressed to tighten the column.
if you tighten the top cap endlessly, unscrew and check: the plug probably moved up inside the steerer, instead of compressing the whole system.
If that's the case, then torque the plug more (i routinely do 8-10nm), consider carbon paste (i dont think it helps, but maybe). Do NOT compress to these levels if the steerer is NOT in situ surrounded by the stem, as the steerer deforms and i have no idea how much torque it would take to crack it. But if the stem & bearings are resisting the expansion, you can do 8-10 w/o problems.

If your problem is different, then there's probably something wonky with your setup somewhere else, like spacers contacting the frame when they shouldnt or something like that.

I ought to try picking up a girl at my next date talking about compressing steering columns. Along with different hardness of aluminum, I feel this should be very interesting to ladies.

Thanks Serge.

After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(



I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.

[barmo]

They had discounts last year.

Thanks.
Both for 11.11 and black friday?

[Serge_K]

Thanks Serge.

After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(



I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.

Oh snap!
Yes, that joke is worth at least 5 dollars.
At least now you know why you couldnt compress the system. Good luck!

[Speedyvelo]

I love the VB-R-268 and I am riding it every day in all terrains. What a beauty!

Q1: Max Tire Size?
Q2: Inner width of the new wheel?

I know VB recommendations are for 25-32 mm tire sizes.  Has any of you tried a 35 mm tire? I'm planning to get another set of wheel which I can get with 23 or 25 mm inner width.

I already have a set of wheels with 23 inner width and running 28 mm tires so my goal would be to have a second pair of wheel with wider tires to use on some rough gravel. I would appreciate if you help me in both questions. Even if VB will not accept a 35 mm tires should I get a wheel with 25mm inner width?

Thank you very much all!

[volan]

I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.

[Serge_K]

I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.

Stick w 30, they will measure well over 30. If you're heavy you could do 32 at the rear, but for aero, definitely not at the front. Been there, done that
In fact if you're running tubeless, at the front ideally you'd run 28, as it would probably measure ~30.5
If you run tubes, 30.

[SillyMochi]

Thinking about changing the handlebar to something more narrow (360mm probably). Haven't really picked anything yet. But just for an example let's say I'd wanna use this KOCEVLO 360mm: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html

What else would I have to change? Do I need a new headset as well or are they compatible? Anything else I need to watch out for (besides the tedious process of rerouting everything and re-bleeding the brakes)?

[volan]

I was wondering about that as well. Haven't found exact answer. I wish someone here tried some other handlebar and has first hand experience on compatibility.

[RasmusWH]

Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.

I tried these one as well, was not a great fit