VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.

[fenomeno]

Hi
Do you have any trusted email’s person to contact to velobuild?
Thnaks.

[AlessandroEmm]

you need to have several mm of space, before you compress the top car, between the steerer and the top of the stem / top cap. it's that space that gets compressed to tighten the column.
if you tighten the top cap endlessly, unscrew and check: the plug probably moved up inside the steerer, instead of compressing the whole system.
If that's the case, then torque the plug more (i routinely do 8-10nm), consider carbon paste (i dont think it helps, but maybe). Do NOT compress to these levels if the steerer is NOT in situ surrounded by the stem, as the steerer deforms and i have no idea how much torque it would take to crack it. But if the stem & bearings are resisting the expansion, you can do 8-10 w/o problems.

If your problem is different, then there's probably something wonky with your setup somewhere else, like spacers contacting the frame when they shouldnt or something like that.

I ought to try picking up a girl at my next date talking about compressing steering columns. Along with different hardness of aluminum, I feel this should be very interesting to ladies.

Thanks Serge.

After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(



I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.

[barmo]

They had discounts last year.

Thanks.
Both for 11.11 and black friday?

[Serge_K]

Thanks Serge.

After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(



I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.

Oh snap!
Yes, that joke is worth at least 5 dollars.
At least now you know why you couldnt compress the system. Good luck!

[Speedyvelo]

I love the VB-R-268 and I am riding it every day in all terrains. What a beauty!

Q1: Max Tire Size?
Q2: Inner width of the new wheel?

I know VB recommendations are for 25-32 mm tire sizes.  Has any of you tried a 35 mm tire? I'm planning to get another set of wheel which I can get with 23 or 25 mm inner width.

I already have a set of wheels with 23 inner width and running 28 mm tires so my goal would be to have a second pair of wheel with wider tires to use on some rough gravel. I would appreciate if you help me in both questions. Even if VB will not accept a 35 mm tires should I get a wheel with 25mm inner width?

Thank you very much all!

[volan]

I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.

[Serge_K]

I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.

Stick w 30, they will measure well over 30. If you're heavy you could do 32 at the rear, but for aero, definitely not at the front. Been there, done that
In fact if you're running tubeless, at the front ideally you'd run 28, as it would probably measure ~30.5
If you run tubes, 30.

[SillyMochi]

Thinking about changing the handlebar to something more narrow (360mm probably). Haven't really picked anything yet. But just for an example let's say I'd wanna use this KOCEVLO 360mm: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html

What else would I have to change? Do I need a new headset as well or are they compatible? Anything else I need to watch out for (besides the tedious process of rerouting everything and re-bleeding the brakes)?

[volan]

I was wondering about that as well. Haven't found exact answer. I wish someone here tried some other handlebar and has first hand experience on compatibility.

[RasmusWH]

Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.

I tried these one as well, was not a great fit

[hazzer19]

- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.

The frame hole for the FD cable/wire is pretty big and oval shape.The metal grommet that screws into this hole is what is usually too small for Di2 cable connectors and I had to drill out personally. Alternatively, you could remove the metal grommet and replace it with a rubber one if you could find one that shape which is a bit big and long

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Thank you that makes a lot of sense. And drilling out a metal grommet sounds way less scary than drilling carbon.