My FM-057 Build Thread.

[Izzy]

LOL at that meme! I know that feeling all too well!

And you shouldn't have to worry at all about that torque wrench. That's one of the good things about the beam style wrenches.. As long as the indicator sits perfectly on the zero, it's calibrated. But yeah, bits will help for sure.

[Sitar_Ned]

Jeez... I'm honestly embarrassed to admit I did this..

I really am going to make every possible rookie, idiot mistake in the book. Last night, I attempted to seat my crown race but I put my bearing on first, then the crown race on upside down, and then proceeded to use my home depot pvc pipe special crown race setting tool to wedge my bearing in between the crown race and and fork base. Doh!

I didn't realize my idiocy until the bearings wouldn't spin (no crap, how could they!?) and then had to spend the next hour using a screw driver and hammer to get them off. I ended up having to use the screwdriver and hammer to wedge space between the bearing and crown race. At first I tried to wedge space between the fork and bearing but not only was it not working.. but I also was scratching up the white paint on my fork. Hahaha.. I was so pissed by this point. I finally got the bearing and crown race off with most of the damage going to the blue rubber seal on the crown race.

It's all installed correctly now and seems to functioning smooth as can be. After a small bit of white touch up paint on the fork.. there is no visible damage either. But it does bother me knowing that the blue seal is damaged and I'm inclined to just order another lower bearing and crown race set since they're fairly cheap. Then again, it's functioning just fine and I may just ride it and see if it causes any issues. I suspect that it won't as I assume the seal is mainly to keep out dirt and grime. I probably shortened the life span of the lower headset, but maybe I'll just leave it for now and see.

Don't worry.. I bet I do something even dumber..

UPDATE:

To stop anyone from making the same mistake I did (surely somebody will, right??)..

Your Cane Creek 40 series lower will arrive looking just like the pic below, and that is exactly how you will want to install it. DO NOT attempt to make the words "Cane Creek" read right side up (that's what threw me off).. the words will be upside down when you install it.. just like the pic below. Separate the two pieces, apply grease on the two sides that will be touching each other, and then install just the lower part first (the piece that doesn't say Cane Creek on it, that's the crown race). Hammer it down until flush, then the bearing (the piece that will say Cane Creek upside down on it) will simply drop down and sit on the crown race.



To seat the crown race you will need to spend about $4 on a 3 foot piece of 1.5 inch, schedule 40 pvc pipe, and a 1.5" pvc pipe cap. The cap is so the hammer will have a contact point. The open end will be resting on your crown race.




This vid was one of the only ones I could find that actually showed the orientation of the crown race when installed.. Wish I would've seen it before my mishap.

[Carbon_Dude]

Yep, on your first build you will do dumb things.  When I was working with the brake lines I remember forgetting to put on the nut and the olive prior to putting on the insert more than once.  Not as bad as what you did but when it's your first time, you don't realize things that just a few moments later become very obvious.

I wouldn't worry about the headset, if it all feels smooth then just ride it until it doesn't feel smooth anymore.  It's not like you will be stranded out on the trail because your headset is not turning smoothly.

[Rigid_Bloke]

Don't sweat it. I mean.. that was pretty dumb lol.. but I've done equally dumb things that ended up costing me a hell of a lot more than the $25 that a new cane creek lower headset would run you.

Besides, the lower headset doesn't usually give you problems, it's the upper that usually acts up. I bet you end up not having to change anything out at all.

 

[Sitar_Ned]

Well, you guys made me feel a little better about it. Thx. It's good to hear the upper is normally more prone to issues since I didn't completely hammer it to crap like I did the lower, lol.

Did a quick mock up just to get a feel for the geometry and ergonomics of the bike.

Picture Me Rollin:



You guys dig the Raceface sticker, or no? Came with my narrow wide chain ring, and the gold matched the fork stantions, and the "Easton" on the seat tube. Life or death decision here fellas.. I need your help 

[Carbon_Dude]

Thumbs up on the RaceFace sticker, I like it.  Do you have one for the other side or is that where the ChinerTown sticker will be .

Looks like you have a good start, once I got started on mine I couldn't stop, I am usually done in a weekend if I have all the parts, how much longer do you think until yours is done?

[Sitar_Ned]

Thumbs up on the RaceFace sticker, I like it.  Do you have one for the other side or is that where the ChinerTown sticker will be .

Looks like you have a good start, once I got started on mine I couldn't stop, I am usually done in a weekend if I have all the parts, how much longer do you think until yours is done?

No.. only came with one RF sticker.. Now that you mention it, the other side seems like a perfect place for the Chinertown sticker!

Yeah, trust me.. I hate that I'm having to start and then stop, but alas, not all parts are in my possession. I ordered the very last of what I need this past Friday (including tools) so I'm hoping it will all be here and I will have it on the trails by next weekend. But the weekend after that is probably more likely. I still have a few items I'm waiting for from Ribble which is a UK shop and can sometimes take 2 weeks for delivery to the U.S. but their prices on slx/xt stuff over the past month has been ridiculous.

Speaking of tools:

As I said earlier in this thread.. You'll need some bike specific tools. Just pony up, and get them.. They're cheap and you'll save that money ten times over by not having to pay the lbs for everything you need done.

From my research.. All you really need to get started is the following:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes//Product_10052_10551_1030354_-1___

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w3001c?seid=srese1&gclid=CISU6Z2z_70CFZRr7AodBUAAgQ

You can go without the work stand if you really have to but they're pretty affordable, as well:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Bike-Adjustable-41-To-75-Repair-Stand-w-Telescopic-Arm-Cycle-Bicycle-Rack/310911335508?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D21023%26meid%3D5934668832356411554%26pid%3D100034%26prg%3D9336%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D360744720389

[Rigid_Bloke]

in that pic.. is that were you're planning to try them stem at, or you just threw it on there real quick without much thought? looks kinda high to me is all. messin up your crown race is no biggie, i'll encourage you to be more thorough when prepping to cut the steer tube, though.

[Sitar_Ned]

in that pic.. is that were you're planning to try them stem at, or you just threw it on there real quick without much thought? looks kinda high to me is all. messin up your crown race is no biggie, i'll encourage you to be more thorough when prepping to cut the steer tube, though.

No measurements done, or adjustments made whatsoever.. Haven't even leveled out the seat position yet in this pic, but I've since done some crude tweaks.

And yes, measuring and cutting the steerer tube is next and I agree - would suck to screw that up. My plan is to start with 2 x 10mm spacers on the bottom of the stem, and 1x10mm spacer on the top of the stem, and cut based on that measurement. I figure that's about the max amount of spacers I'd want below my stem anyways, so I'll start there and can remove a spacer, lower the stem, and cut more if I need to. From my crude tweaks.. 20mm spacers should put the bars around about where I estimate the seat will be. So, all in all.. seems like a solid plan to me, but let me know if there's a better way.

[Carbon_Dude]

To cut the stem I just used a standard $10 pipe cutter from Home Depot.  One adjustment to the spacers is that I cut the steer tube a few millimeters shorter to allow the cap of the expansion nut to sit flush on the spacer that's above the stem.

Besides the Park Tools toolkit that SN posted, some other tools that I used for my build:
Park Tools Cable Cutter (reduces fraying of the cable)
Brake Hose Cutter (slices the line cleanly w/o compressing it)
Plastic Tire Levers

I also purchased a Park Tools Rear Derailleur Hanger Alignment tool, this helps to make sure your R/D is aligned correctly prior to setting up and adjusting the R/D, even out of the box my R/D was not perfectly aligned with the frame and rear wheel.

You may also want to have a brake bleed kit for Shimano or Avid depending on which brakes you buy.

Really not many tools at all, and once you have them you can do all your maintenance yourself.

[brmeyer135]

I would put a 'chinertown' sticker on my bike.  I would defer to Sitar for an official before just making one.  Let us know if you have a preference, and if so, what they are so we can have one made to your specs.

[Sitar_Ned]

So.. with my SLX cranks and bottom bracket, there's three o rings included.. How do I know if I need these or not?

Thx in advance.

[brmeyer135]

Nice.  If that is going on a bike, the small print will be really small and unreadable....esp. from a distance.
If it is a general sticker...understandable.

[Carbon_Dude]

Don't know about the o-rings, but the sticker could be just the text, "ChinerTown.com" and it would be easily read from a short distance.

[Sitar_Ned]

Good points about the small text fellas.. Will modify and have a few different versions printed up, and see which turns out better when they get here.

There are apparently only two possible configurations with the spacers. You will use at least one of them, and they mount between the bearing cup and the bottom bracket shell.. If you have a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell, then you need 2 spacers on drive side and one on non-drive side. If you have 73mm shell then you only need one on the drive side. That is if you are using a triple crankset. If you're using the Shimano double crankset with a 73mm BB you would still only use one spacer, but on the non drive side - This will apparently give you the optimal chain line.

A quick measurement of the 057 BB puts it at 73mm, and I'm using the triple crankest.. so one drive side bottom bracket spacer/o-ring it is.