Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Taicho_Cyclist on March 27, 2024, 12:46:23 PM
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(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S98740fc11c694766bc126e517bb4ef56U.jpg?width=1000&height=1200&hash=2200)
Just received the LEXON R1 hi-mod carbon cranks today and they are really beautiful. Did a quick unbox clip just to show the item and weight, plus the accompanying Xcadey Powermeter which will be mated with the carbon cranks.
https://youtu .be/0CK8M6rj7Nw
https://youtu.be/0CK8M6rj7Nw (https://youtu.be/0CK8M6rj7Nw)
Seeing is really believing as the weight is amazingly light at 331/332 grams for cranks with spindle. Adding the alloy spider gave 372 grams. After replacing the crank spider with the powermeter, the overall weight without chainring bolts is 435 grams. Still amazingly light before installation on my TIME ADH23.
Cheers.
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How much did you pay and where did you find them?
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The cranks are from Aliexpress for about nearly USD200 and the powermeter are about USD270 with discounts using coupons.
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Interesting. Isn't that more of a MTB crankset? Is DUB for road too?
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Dub is very much a road standard too, and it's basically a slightly aesthetically tweaked cybrei crank
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I can't find them at all on ali, only under the elilee brand at double the price. They look great though, what chainrings are you pairing them up with?
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Theres like 20 listings for these cranks and elilee is a completely different brand
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Suspect IMO. Why would you have that indent in the arm of the crank? It looks like they tried to make it look 'cool' like a CNC machined alu crank.
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I wish this came in 165mm.
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4 sizes from 167.5 to 175mm
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ordered one! hope to receive it in few days
i plan to use it with a 1x setup for gravel.
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Do these have any advantage over your normal SRAM RED 8-bolt Crankarms?
They seem to be the same weight and apparently only $20 cheaper.
While I appreciate the competition of Cybrei, Incolor and Lexon, am I jaded to expect at least a little more of a price gap considering the unproven durability and lack of local customer support/warranty?
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they're a little bit lighter, the wight is quoted with the spider
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Are these dual sided by some miracle? My DUB Zero PM only reports one side.
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Are these dual sided by some miracle? My DUB Zero PM only reports one side.
They are spider-based (so measure power transferred from your crank axle to your chainring) so they give an accurate L+R combined power measurement but are unable to give independent power readings for the left and right sides.
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If you ordered the crankset separately from the powermeter, there may be an issue with the crank lockring as pictured
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqBrVKkTPzwNcs8W9) https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqBrVKkTPzwNcs8W9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/eqBrVKkTPzwNcs8W9)
The lockring can be hand tightened in but the grooves have no space for tools to fit in and tighten it. However, this may not be the case if the seller is offering a mounted crank unit to the powermeter as mine came separately.
The solution is to use an internal groove lockring like the Race Face CINCH for Easton lockring. Small hiccup but not catastrophic so the project will be delayed while I use the standard alloy spider that came with the crank.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fapimqD1dQT5a7m26
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It is installed but without powermeter until I get a replacement lockring. The bike went from 7.4kg to 7.1kg in a single swap of the cranks.
Right view.
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/RPUtUzUYMAh7Xq3Z9)https://photos.app.goo.gl/RPUtUzUYMAh7Xq3Z9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/RPUtUzUYMAh7Xq3Z9)
Left view.
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/wo9Rbq3eukQB7WX87)https://photos.app.goo.gl/wo9Rbq3eukQB7WX87 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/wo9Rbq3eukQB7WX87)
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One of the AliExpress sellers replied that the tool needed is the Shimano TL-FC33 adapter.
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We tried that but the flange on the tool is too thick. I have ordered a RACE FACE -CINCH lockring with internal splines instead to test. So stay tuned.
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We tried that but the flange on the tool is too thick. I have ordered a RACE FACE -CINCH lockring with internal splines instead to test. So stay tuned.
That sucks.. because that's the tool the seller recommended when I asked if tools would be provided
Let us know which one works.
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Got it. Will keep posted. I also ordered a RISK brand version to test.
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mine is arrived, and have the lockring with internali splines
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here the weight, the chainring si a passquest oval 42t
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mine is arrived, and have the lockring with internali splines
My seller is going to send me the correct lockring with internal splines shortly. Hope that can come and sort out the powermeter installation soon.
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The tool for the lockring looks like a 20tooth BB tool correct?
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The tool for the lockring looks like a 20tooth BB tool correct?
You are correct.
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mine is arrived, and have the lockring with internali splines
What is the tool you used to install the lockring? I tried a old 20tooth square taper bbtool but it doesn't fit exactly.
Can you point me to the right tool?
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I am getting fed up with the Lexon store that sold me the crank and powermeter combo. It seems that they do not know which is the tool that can install the spider. They pointed me to Shimano TL-FC33 which does not fit at all and now they are not replying.
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I am getting fed up with the Lexon store that sold me the crank and powermeter combo. It seems that they do not know which is the tool that can install the spider. They pointed me to Shimano TL-FC33 which does not fit at all and now they are not replying.
Lexon is one of the less trustworthy brands according to reviews. This just adds to that image...
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What is the tool you used to install the lockring? I tried a old 20tooth square taper bbtool but it doesn't fit exactly.
Can you point me to the right tool?
this tool for shimano bb 20 splines
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What is the tool you used to install the lockring? I tried a old 20tooth square taper bbtool but it doesn't fit exactly.
Can you point me to the right tool?
can you post a photo of your lockring?
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I have a old 20tooth BB tool that I used to remove square taper cranks years ago.
It looks almost the same but the splines on the tool are slightly too thick. I have tried ordering another one to see
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I have a old 20tooth BB tool that I used to remove square taper cranks years ago.
It looks almost the same but the splines on the tool are slightly too thick. I have tried ordering another one to see
my tool is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Teyssor-Bracket-Removal-Standard-20-Tooth/dp/B09JJLMKF2/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2ALL0VNLZY3WS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZPi2E0wU5ZmQmik8M7UMOcL3O2fske6JcXWCvof4Gl5dIHURxa8m787Zb735BPWOwg4mv3xtCrkZWsTAnn06_sZAxeZdq5XDxSUh0F265O8mkD1qruq5WRojXfQNbss2t0NMeGQnQHvvkKshjhF6idtMWEH6Z9BLFx4hQKTsIXGntdwPeyKjUGLB5viMUc_GtLEvLNdcBbJN9cXWm-QHLynOfOcqcR6E0CTOeUIc3Jtl9oABXA3_zkfwgozamDxaD_lLzXzA7ZSzs0hwB_vCHxF8y2hxDKBNxkgCCktid1I.0D7PTf-S7xj3UZjWG9dNYs0w_lksCp9otNf5ypH7jnI&dib_tag=se&keywords=shimano%2B20%2Btool&qid=1714398602&sprefix=shimano%2B20%2Btool%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-15&th=1
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3d printing may be your friend here. i have 3d printed a couple of strange tools to tighten various BBs. From memory, I think i need to print the tool to install a Moqai T47 BB, for example.
Thingiverse is likely to have the tool you need, then you simply have to print it. if you dont have a printer, make a friend, or find locally. it's become so common, it can't be expensive to have it printed. it costs me pennies to print such tools. Basic PLA is sufficient if you know what you're doing.
It's amazing that the shop selling these is incompetent to the point of not knowing what's needed for installation. Very hard to respect that level of incompetence.
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They keep recommending the Shimano tl-fc33 which is clearly for external splines where as the powermeter comes with internal spline lockring.
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Any ride feedback for the crankset? Interested in stiffness, chainline, spacing and other issues.
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I received this crankset but have not yet installed it. I was able to find one store selling 165mm crank length, and that's what I received.
The crankset with spider weighs 362g according to my kitchen scale.
My cheap Ali 20-spline tool for cartridge bottom bracket works perfectly to tighten the spider lockring.
Engraving on the spindle says Q-factor 148mm, chainline 44mm. I'll try to report back when I ride it.
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Hi everyone. First post on chinertown, must say, I like getting more insight on the product I buy as well, outside of the usual youtube channels.
Why Im on this thread. I bought a set of these lexon cranks, first without a powermeter.
First unboxing everything looked amazing, and weight is super.
I was super happy to see that I received one with a black bolt instead of the purple one.
I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.
So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.
I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.
Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?
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I think something's gotta be wrong here
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Hi everyone. First post on chinertown, must say, I like getting more insight on the product I buy as well, outside of the usual youtube channels.
Why Im on this thread. I bought a set of these lexon cranks, first without a powermeter.
First unboxing everything looked amazing, and weight is super.
I was super happy to see that I received one with a black bolt instead of the purple one.
I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.
So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.
I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.
Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?
I also have this new crank revision with the black (not purple) bolt and has that shoulder that the spider rests on.
I installed my crankset and took some measurements. The chainline comes out to 44mm according to my measurements.
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Any updates on how this crankset is performing? I’m strongly considering pairing it with Ultegra chainrings and using it for a on-going bike project I have.
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SO far it has been performing well. Stiff and light, the only issue of the loosening lockring on non-drive side has been solved. The tiny bolt binding it came loose so I applied some medium strength threadlock and now it remained tight.
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In the end I ended up removing the thick shoulder and shortening the axle by 1mm (only).
I use a spacer between the lockring for the spider and the spider itself. Now I have a Q-factor of 149mm, but if I measure from pedal insert face, its about 146mm.
I also now have more room to evenly space my crank arms and not have the blades touch my frame.
It could be that the blades I use (not the lexon carbon ones) also caused the chainline issue, but I like the overall look now better and I dropped another 10grams of weight.
I have now ordered the powermeter that goes with it, so will have to check the fit with that. If needed, I can always add in thin spacers between the crank and the spider again.
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I can find plenty of 165mm cranks but all are 52-36. And DUB
I would get one at 50-34 and 24mm spindle
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So far so good on my Lexon cranks. Weighed 385 grams w/spider. I’ve ridden about 200 miles including some big climbing days. The best thing you can say about cranks it that you haven’t really thought about them since they’ve been installed. Spins easily, stiff and trouble free.
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Thanks for all the replies. I have frame that has a BSA threaded BB. Right now its setup for Shimano 24mm axles. Looking at 30mm DUB compatible BSA threaded BB shells. For me this could be a fun project to lose 175-200 grams off my current crankset.
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(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S98740fc11c694766bc126e517bb4ef56U.jpg?width=1000&height=1200&hash=2200)
Just received the LEXON R1 hi-mod carbon cranks today and they are really beautiful. Did a quick unbox clip just to show the item and weight, plus the accompanying Xcadey Powermeter which will be mated with the carbon cranks.
https://youtu .be/0CK8M6rj7Nw
https://youtu.be/0CK8M6rj7Nw (https://youtu.be/0CK8M6rj7Nw)
Seeing is really believing as the weight is amazingly light at 331/332 grams for cranks with spindle. Adding the alloy spider gave 372 grams. After replacing the crank spider with the powermeter, the overall weight without chainring bolts is 435 grams. Still amazingly light before installation on my TIME ADH23.
Cheers.
Hi, is the Lexon branding on the crank arms removable? (i.e. is it a sticker or something that would have to be sanded off if someone wanted plain black crank arms). Thanks!
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Hi, is the Lexon branding on the crank arms removable? (i.e. is it a sticker or something that would have to be sanded off if someone wanted plain black crank arms). Thanks!
I checked my crank and the branding is not a removable.
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the labels on my cranks are not removable either. I am happy with them for the price
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I reached out to them for a 24mm version and got September indicated as a potential availability. Very keen to give this a try
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Received the first pictures of the 24mm spindle crank set from LEXON.
Material is titanium and looks anodized.
Q factor is 151mm
Chain Line is 52.5mm
Still with Easton interface for spider or powermeter.
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Received the first pictures of the 24mm spindle crank set from LEXON.
Material is titanium and looks anodized.
Q factor is 151mm
Chain Line is 52.5mm
Still with Easton interface for spider or powermeter.
Wow this is awesome, this was exactly what I was hoping for lexon to do. Couldn't find any other carbon cranksets with 24mm TI spindle that didn't cost a fortune.
Also what the hell is that chainline? That chainline is MTB non boost standard. Shimano di2 12 speed uses 44.5, seems really odd?
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I've just ordered this crank + spider power meter. Can't wait to install it on my bike
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Which did you go for? 24mm or 30mm axle?
Looking forward to your pics and impressions
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I've just ordered this crank + spider power meter. Can't wait to install it on my bike
Do you have the link ?
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_oFyCIXd
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_oFyCIXd
Those carbon / aluminium chainrings look very interesting!
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Received the first pictures of the 24mm spindle crank set from LEXON.
Material is titanium and looks anodized.
Q factor is 151mm
Chain Line is 52.5mm
Still with Easton interface for spider or powermeter.
Didn't know they have the 24mm version. Can't find it, can u please link
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They don't. Not yet
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Just message them on their official store.
24mm should become available for Roadbike as well, can't wait to get my hands on one.
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I have a cannondale with BB30a bottom bracket standard, I believe my spindle should be 30mm on my bikes stock cranks.
Is there a 30mm spindle version of these I can get? Their description says 28.9mm. Can I get some sort of adapter or different bb to use 24mm spindle too?
???
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29 mm is usually used with 30mm bbs with a nylon sleeve
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You'll need a BB30A to DUB bottom bracket. SRAM make one.
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29 mm is usually used with 30mm bbs with a nylon sleeve
You'll need a BB30A to DUB bottom bracket. SRAM make one.
Thanks for the info guys! I'm pretty new to tinkering with road bikes ;D
Is this lexon crank the best carbon crankset to get at the moment?
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Thanks for the info guys! I'm pretty new to tinkering with road bikes ;D
Is this lexon crank the best carbon crankset to get at the moment?
The best is Elilee or cybrei
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the best is sram really, elilee has the lightest and the only 24mm atm, lexon is basically the same as cybrei
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the best is sram really, elilee has the lightest and the only 24mm atm, lexon is basically the same as cybrei
Yeah but cybrei is being riden by Pogacar on his TDF TT setup to you can be sure it's top quality and Lexon brand is not the most reputable one.
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Sure, the parts are basically the same and they probably come from the same factory.
And UAE equipment selection is weird sometimes. They probably wouldn't have had those cranks if they weren't an SRM rebrand
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Sure, the parts are basically the same and they probably come from the same factory.
And UAE equipment selection is weird sometimes. They probably wouldn't have had those cranks if they weren't an SRM rebrand
If they're the same then cool, because we all know Lexon had loooads of shit products.
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Confirmed with Rockbros that their 24mm roadbike version should come in September (no indication of the year).
It does provide an option to have a different logo but the product should be the same.
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Yesterday, the LEXON carbon crankset with a Rotor Qrings Qarbon was installed. When I drove a decent amount of km I can report back. It's pretty light and I went for the purple middle with purple bolts.
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I have pushed the button on Cybrei lots of race teams use and if its good enough for Pogacar!
Cybrei are due to release 24mm and Eiliee have an updateD 24mm due the X Trecneto I think its called, and Lexon also have a 24mm on the way.
Not all made in the same factory but someone has stolen the design obviously.
Considered the Lexon and RockBros but not worth the headache and potential injuries save a few quid if it goes wrong IMO
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I just got this crank for my hill climb build (live in the UK) and have to say overall very impressed with the weight (322g without spider, going to use dm 1x chainring) and the machining/feel of the product. To me this and the rockbros crank look the same but you can clearly see this looks different (although similar) to the Cybrei crank. Wouldn't surprise me to learn they took "inspiration" from the cybrei and the rockbros and lexon are made in the same factory. Still waiting for the bb to arrive so will give an update when i've used it out on the road.
Also I used an old shimano 20 spline bb tool which worked fine for me.
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The 24mm spindle version is now available for ordering from the lexon official store.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007788853030.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21JPY%21%EF%BF%A5%2029%2C130%21%EF%BF%A5%2029%2C130%21%21%21199.00%21199.00%21%402140cdd517271502100504101ea3b8%2112000042206424562%21sh%21JP%210%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007599224013.1005007788853030
the price of 199US$ was too attractive compared to the other Chinese carbon cranksets with 24mm titanium spindle and the design is also top notch.
forgive me but I had to pull the trigger ;-)
pics and weight will come once the 167.5mm crank arrived.
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The 24mm spindle version is now available for ordering from the lexon official store.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007788853030.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21JPY%21%EF%BF%A5%2029%2C130%21%EF%BF%A5%2029%2C130%21%21%21199.00%21199.00%21%402140cdd517271502100504101ea3b8%2112000042206424562%21sh%21JP%210%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007599224013.1005007788853030
the price of 199US$ was too attractive compared to the other Chinese carbon cranksets with 24mm titanium spindle and the design is also top notch.
forgive me but I had to pull the trigger ;-)
pics and weight will come once the 167.5mm crank arrived.
I hope it's top notch. On weight weenies many people are having concerns on titanium 24mm spindle - that it's to soft and may brake/flex under serious watts. I would love to get those but don't wanna test it on my self
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I'm using the Xcadey crank in 172.5mm with titanium spindle since ~3 years and so far it is holding up fine.
the Xcadey Gen1 powermeter does not....
About me: ~80kG, 6~8000km per year, road only with loads of climbing in Japan, no races, sprints 1200W peak during Sunday group rides
From my subjective view, the 24mm version adds quite some weight to the Lexon carbon crank vs the DUB version, this is not the case for the Elilee, not sure if the titanium axle is having thinner walls or not. ==> it is not only the material but also about the detail spec (aka titanium grade), the shape as well as average wall thickness, besides others...
That being said, I have not yet seen a single broken titanium axle, not so sure about aluminum ones
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Hopefully they keep the all-black look, much nicer than the loud Lexon graphics on the original.
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It looks really great in the sun
picture from a customer review on AliExpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006144444834.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21JPY%21%EF%BF%A5%2038%2C839%21%EF%BF%A5%2023%2C419%21%21%21265.33%21159.99%21%402101584917271580811171328e3edf%2112000036025956036%21sh%21JP%210%21X&spm=a2g0n.store_m_allProduct.allProducts_11481382.1005006144444834
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I'm using the Xcadey crank in 172.5mm with titanium spindle since ~3 years and so far it is holding up fine.
the Xcadey Gen1 powermeter does not....
About me: ~80kG, 6~8000km per year, road only with loads of climbing in Japan, no races, sprints 1200W peak during Sunday group rides
From my subjective view, the 24mm version adds quite some weight to the Lexon carbon crank vs the DUB version, this is not the case for the Elilee, not sure if the titanium axle is having thinner walls or not. ==> it is not only the material but also about the detail spec (aka titanium grade), the shape as well as average wall thickness, besides others...
That being said, I have not yet seen a single broken titanium axle, not so sure about aluminum ones
Good to hear your positive experience. Will consider the titanium one as my next update. People on WW are not worried that much about breaking but more about flex that will wear out bearings. But since You tested and it's all good I'm fine.
Power meter for those cransets is another thing to consider. I've also heard mixed opinions about xcadey. It's a shame Magene does not make power meter for Easton mounting. Wonder why?
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Safest bet for power meters is probably Sigeyi
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Yesterday, the LEXON carbon crankset with a Rotor Qrings Qarbon was installed. When I drove a decent amount of km I can report back. It's pretty light and I went for the purple middle with purple bolts.
BB is Cema T47A with internal 77mm, if I measure the outer width is it 94mm
The Lexon crankset has a spindle length of 92 mm
I'm now finishing up and I noticed some play rocking back and forth in the arms, maybe around 2mm, So I tightened it up to the recommended 45 nm of torq. Then the crank is too tight and won't spin freely anymore. For reference, the preload ring is fully to the back and I used in the beginning 2 mm spacers that the BB delivered from Cema delivered with the BB. Then I removed the spacers, I could tighten the crank but it still didn't spin smoothly and freely, the play on the arms was reduced but still there.
The next step was trying it without a pre-load ring and then I could tighten it at 45nm torq and it spins freely and there is no play in the crankset and in the arms that I had before. Is it possible that the preload ring is too wide? The preload ring is 7 mm thick and the thread on the crank spindle is 4 mm high so if I can shave off 3 mm it should work. I think I will try to get the 2 mm off the pre-load ring. But has anyone had the same with a T47a DUB BB?
The spindle length is the same as other brands, which has 92mm.
Using this platform and Google, I couldn't find any solution or if someone had this before, but I can't believe I'm the only one out there with this issue.
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BB is Cema T47A with internal 77mm, if I measure the outer width is it 94mm
The Lexon crankset has a spindle length of 92 mm
I'm now finishing up and I noticed some play rocking back and forth in the arms, maybe around 2mm, So I tightened it up to the recommended 45 nm of torq. Then the crank is too tight and won't spin freely anymore. For reference, the preload ring is fully to the back and I used in the beginning 2 mm spacers that the BB delivered from Cema delivered with the BB. Then I removed the spacers, I could tighten the crank but it still didn't spin smoothly and freely, the play on the arms was reduced but still there.
The next step was trying it without a pre-load ring and then I could tighten it at 45nm torq and it spins freely and there is no play in the crankset and in the arms that I had before. Is it possible that the preload ring is too wide? The preload ring is 7 mm thick and the thread on the crank spindle is 4 mm high so if I can shave off 3 mm it should work. I think I will try to get the 2 mm off the pre-load ring. But has anyone had the same with a T47a DUB BB?
The spindle length is the same as other brands, which has 92mm.
Using this platform and Google, I couldn't find any solution or if someone had this before, but I can't believe I'm the only one out there with this issue.
Had same problem with other crankset on my t47. Just removed the preload bolt and replaced it with spacers om both sides
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Had same problem with other crankset on my t47. Just removed the preload bolt and replaced it with spacers om both sides
Thanks, I will try to find a spacer that fits.
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Thanks, I will try to find a spacer that fits.
Just get 29mm spacers from Ali
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same issue on MTB, the preload bolt had a shoulder that was acting as a spacer, I filed it down and it did the trick
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The postman stopped by
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The postman stopped by
Is the spider mounted to the crank arm with a lock ring?
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The postman stopped by
That's a better weight then they advertise. Because in the description they state 411g for cranset only and you got 462 with PM
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The weight is fairly much spot on, as the Powermeter is around 50gr heavier than the spider.
But the weight is provided for the 165mm version and I have the 167.5mm cranks. Should be fun to mount tomorrow.
The left crank has a lock ring but no spacers have been included.
I'll use the ones from my current Xcadey cranks if needed and order some spares from the usual source.
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Lexon , for some reason, list their weight measurements including the spider, you could see that if you looked at the description of the listing. They did the same with the 29mm alu spindle crank. The actual weight is around 350-360 g.
This is pretty crap tbh. I don't understand why they don't just make the whole lenght of the spindle 24mm OD. By slimming it down in the middle they are just losing stiffness. Elilee used to make their titanium cranks like this. Their new updated model is 24mm OD the whole way and is stiffer and 40 grams lighter than the predecessor.
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You are right that having a larger diameter makes the tube stiffer with the same amount of materials. That is one of the reasons why aluminium frames had rather fat tubes.
In fairness to Lexon, all titanium 24mm spindles had this design (flaw) because the milling of the inside of a tube is rather costly compared to the outside milling. (Guessing that the Elilee crank has been milled on the inside)
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Weight comparison:
R8100 170mm cranks, no power meter: 555gr
Xcadey 172.5mm cranks with power meter: 592gr
Lexon 167.5mm with Xcadey power meter: 462gr
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tried installing the crank yesterday and had mixed experience...
1. the power-meter installation went smooth thanks to the help of the LBS that had right lock ring tool (used for bottom brackets as well)
2. mounting the axel into the left crank arm, no problems. good fit and some wired white paste was already available. still added some grease for good measures
3. mounting the cranks to frame: well this was not going too smooth....
- no spacers where included --> used the spacers from
- the adjustment ring from the left crank arm has an inner diameter of 29mm, this is too big for the spacers which are 28mm OD...
hence all spacers must go on the right side, which is not good for symmetry and might increase the flex (if there is any with my spider legs) ass the right side sticks out more
- the adjustment ring has also a rather short rang compared to the older XCADEY version
- added both spacers on the right side and still have larger gap even with the adjustment ring fully out...
==> not really that well ridable
Now I ordered some more 24mm spacers from Amazon, should arrive today and use this temporarily.
My idea is to use an aluminum head-set spacer (ID 28.6mm, OD33.5mm) to put it on a 24mm crank spacer (OD 28.7mm) via hot/cold shrink or sandpaper followed by GLUE. does anybody has experience with it?
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Pics from the spacer and the alignment ring.
It seems that the Elilee X310 24mm has a better ring that goes close to the 24mm axle
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Pics from the spacer and the alignment ring.
It seems that the Elilee X310 24mm has a better ring that goes close to the 24mm axle
Maybe just get rid od the ring and put spacers there. I've done that on my dub cranks in my gravel build, no problem.
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Managed to mount the crankset!
Figured that the right side needed much more spacers to create clearance between the lockring and the bottom bracket outer shell.
Once this was done the adjustment ring on the left was sufficient to close the gap and avoid play. The ring sits barely on the inner BB seal, which should be fine.
Lexon staff agreed to put spacers in future deliveries. Some installation instructions would be helpful as well....
Below the new and the old cranks on my Sculptura 9000.
Haven't rode it yet but should be happening later this week.
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Anyone used the carbon chainrings that come with the lexon R1 "purple" version?
Wondering about how they handle, flex, durability etc. I much prefer the carbon weave look over the non-purple version.
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Got the powermeter now as well, no problem with mounting it, in the end 60 gram more than the spider, so I'm quite content.
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Managed to mount the crankset!
Figured that the right side needed much more spacers to create clearance between the lockring and the bottom bracket outer shell.
Once this was done the adjustment ring on the left was sufficient to close the gap and avoid play. The ring sits barely on the inner BB seal, which should be fine.
Lexon staff agreed to put spacers in future deliveries. Some installation instructions would be helpful as well....
Below the new and the old cranks on my Sculptura 9000.
Haven't rode it yet but should be happening later this week.
Any update on this ?
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So far so good, have done 10 rides ISH and going for a bigger 160km round today, Onyu pass in Japan.
The cranks are holding up very well only the Powermeter was/is a bit off compared to me wahoo kickr. Like 30 watts, which is not that insignificant as I'm not enjoying Pogi's power output
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So far so good, have done 10 rides ISH and going for a bigger 160km round today, Onyu pass in Japan.
The cranks are holding up very well only the Powermeter was/is a bit off compared to me wahoo kickr. Like 30 watts, which is not that insignificant as I'm not enjoying Pogi's power output
Yeah that's why I don't want any of those elille, cybrei, lexon cransets as the all use those xcadey power meter. It a shame magene don't make spider PM for easton standard.
Can always get sram red crankset and funny enough it's cheaper then those Chinese ones lol. But it is dub and I am afraid of putting a dub into pf bottom bracket as everyone says it's just too much compromise with bearings size.
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You can adjuat the scale on xcadey
You can also get a sigeyi for easton which are better calibrated
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I've been comparing the Wahoo Kickr and Xcadey power-meter and changed the scale to 105% but I do miss the offset function as well.
Another potential point of improvement for the Xcadey is that the APP does not show the latest adjusted scale value...
The Sigeyi was more than US$100 more expensive, which I felt a bit much for a power-meter that cost US$250 with the Xcadey brand.
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I've been comparing the Wahoo Kickr and Xcadey power-meter and changed the scale to 105% but I do miss the offset function as well.
Another potential point of improvement for the Xcadey is that the APP does not show the latest adjusted scale value...
The Sigeyi was more than US$100 more expensive, which I felt a bit much for a power-meter that cost US$250 with the Xcadey brand.
If I read this correctly, the Xcadey was reading low for you? Since you had to scale it up to 105% ?
I should probably do some specific testing against my indoor trainer (Elite Suito). But at the moment, it feels accurate, or even reading a bit higher than my trainer. But I always just assumed this is due to drivetrain losses (point of measurement). And the fact that riding indoors just feels harder.
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Lets get back to talking about the cranks guys, not power meters
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What are everyone's thoughts on the lightest and/or best shifting set of chainrings to get onto here (for a Shimano setup). I'd like 54/40 but would settle for 53/39.
Dura Ace seem pretty good? Is there a neater / lighter spider than the ones supplied?
Stones are c.190-200g for a set. Lexons 190gish. Dura ace 165g.
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Here some 2 videos about unboxing and mounting of the Lexon cranks.
https://youtu.be/stbtV1tjf_w?si=Pc6FapEohYvWQCEv
https://youtu.be/8IENg6XRPVs?si=dHmCubrQ4ZrJ5NN4
Done now around 500km, cranks are doing fine.
Next project is to improve the chain line which is currently quite to the right (outside) as all spacers are on the right.
Just order some alu headset spacers (28.6mm inner diameter) and will use them together with a 24mm spacer (28.7mm outside diameter).
just now I found these here, should be an easier fit of a perceived (mental) issue of chain line perfection.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256807897752807.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.29.5efc504fMEPjcr&algo_pvid=b27c04b1-64ae-4fd9-9803-775cba6f70ed&algo_exp_id=b27c04b1-64ae-4fd9-9803-775cba6f70ed-14&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%213.30%211.91%21%21%2123.73%2113.76%21%402102f0c917315467680074286ef473%2112000043613694070%21sea%21US%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=mw48wf1ig8Ux&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Lets get back to talking about the cranks guys, not power meters
Those cranks are sold with this power meter so we gonna talk about it if you like it or not
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Those cranks are sold with this power meter so we gonna talk about it if you like it or not
Thank you for this comment.
So far so good, have done 10 rides ISH and going for a bigger 160km round today, Onyu pass in Japan.
The cranks are holding up very well only the Powermeter was/is a bit off compared to me wahoo kickr. Like 30 watts, which is not that insignificant as I'm not enjoying Pogi's power output
I use a Saris H3 and the motor meter with me is off by 10 watts so probably it isn't too bad overall and yeah you can calibrate them easily after if you think it's not correct. I initially thought that my Saris H3 was less accurate than the power meter, but after your comment, I had to rethink my initial thought. However, I'm satisfied with it.
Too bad that those DUB crankset from Lexon didn't came with titanium axles or at least the one that I have, compared to the 24mm as they claim they are titanium...
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So what is the general upshot here - are the cranks being shipped without the right spacers? Can you get a normal q factor and chainlinr or are the axles physically too long? What's the fault here?
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So what is the general upshot here - are the cranks being shipped without the right spacers? Can you get a normal q factor and chainlinr or are the axles physically too long? What's the fault here?
today first ride with lexon cranks and shimano ultegra chainrings. Cranks came with 2 spacer , i've put one of 2 mm (i think) in NDS and it's ok, on drive side i've put a 0.5mm spacer to match with 45 mm chainline of previous shimano crank.
It worked flawless on T47 bb 86.5 without moving front derailleur.
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Is Aliexpress running a fake sale?
It says these are 40% off until the 18th of Nov, with a sale price of $248.34 down from $399.00
Haven't these always been around $200 dollars?
I bought the Lexon MTB crank about 3 months ago for 200-ish.
Anyone know which is the 'real' vendor for these on Aliexpress? There are quite a few different listings of them+Chainrings+powermeter for varying prices.
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standard operating procedure
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standard operating procedure
What is the normal price of these cranks?
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I've Just noticed that my "new " r1 received 2 days ago is like a new version
It has the same lockring on drive and NDS, and weight a Little more than previous received in june
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What is the normal price of these cranks?
i've paid 160€ for it + 10€ of taxes at italian customs
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i've paid 160€ for it + 10€ of taxes at italian customs
When was this? That's WAY cheaper than what I get for a price on Aliexpress now in the US.
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This month, was 169€
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I've Just noticed that my "new " r1 received 2 days ago is like a new version
It has the same lockring on drive and NDS, and weight a Little more than previous received in june
Do you mean that both sides have a nut and its possible to remove the axle if you really want?
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Do you mean that both sides have a nut and its possible to remove the axle if you really want?
In the one received this week yes. In the older i don't know
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So it looks, that is not heavier just the 24mm titan version, but also new V2 alu 28,99 version. Ordered on monday 11.11. 172,5mm DUB alu version, so I'm wonder what arrive in the package.
As for price, ordered with pwm from Lexon official store and used 80$ Aliex. coupon, so final was 148$ for crankset alone, but waiting if it will be catch by customs :) (I am from EU)
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(http://i.imgur.com/qSqMU4C.png)
We have to pay way more in the US I guess. :-\
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That's for the new version. Old version is about $150 USD after coupons.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKi6IoL
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(http://i.imgur.com/qSqMU4C.png)
We have to pay way more in the US I guess. :-\
No, the picture you sent is the 24mm titanium spindle version. you need to compare to the 29mm aluminum spindle version which is significantly cheaper.
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prefer this new finish however looking for this in DUB spindle also advertising 320grams seem to be getting heavier this cranks. Obviously Ti will be slightly heavier anyone have a DUB at 320g?
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prefer this new finish however looking for this in DUB spindle also advertising 320grams seem to be getting heavier this cranks. Obviously Ti will be slightly heavier anyone have a DUB at 320g?
mine in first version is 322 gr with DUB spindle, take a look on previous photos
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I've Just noticed that my "new " r1 received 2 days ago is like a new version
It has the same lockring on drive and NDS, and weight a Little more than previous received in june
I can confirm the same. I bought another crankset and received it a few days ago. The weight came out to 401g WITH spider which is around 40g heavier than my old one.
As you can see in the picture below, it's the same lockring on both sides.
I think I know the reason why they made this change. Now that they have a 24mm Ti spindle option, they want to have more parts commonality between the two sets. Look at the picture of the titanium spindle. I bet that you can swap spindles between the Ti version and alu version.
If so, it's good news for people who want the more subtle branding of the titanium version. Maybe you can buy the Ti version and ask them to buy an extra 29mm alu spindle.
Note that they still advertise the alu version as 40g lighter than the Ti version, but that is not true anymore. The difference will be less than 10g.
Also, it makes you wonder if the other carbon cranksets that seem to be the same (such as Rockbros) have also made the change. If not, I'd think about buying the Rockbros crankset to save 40g. Although I really hate the branding graphic on it...
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You wont be able to fit a dub 29mm and a ti 24mm axle in the same spline, you would need an adapter to fill in the space that the 24mm is narrower.
This does however mean that you can pissibly swop the dub spindle for a shorter one, if the interface accepts the normal bb386/bb30 interface.
This is something that I wish I could have done with my set. Meaning I can finetune the q-factor.
This may intrigue me enough to buy another set.
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Oh yeah, you are right. It seems unlikely that the 24mm spindle and 29mm spindle use the same spline.
Realizing that, it makes me wonder why Lexon made this change. I think for marketing purposes, the 40g increase is a big deal.
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I can confirm the same. I bought another crankset and received it a few days ago. The weight came out to 401g WITH spider which is around 40g heavier than my old one.
As you can see in the picture below, it's the same lockring on both sides.
Ohhh, with "lock ring", you're referring to the crank bolt assembly, right? Damn, I was so confused when that first came up and the image to prove it showed something like an actual lock ring on one side and the split preload nut on the other ...
This does however mean that you can pissibly swop the dub spindle for a shorter one, if the interface accepts the normal bb386/bb30 interface.
I think those standards only tell you what the bb shell should look like, nothing about the spindle-to-crank interface ... of which there are several (for the same nominal spindle diameter). So, the question is if there are standards for the latter or every manufacturer does their own thing.
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So it looks, that is not heavier just the 24mm titan version, but also new V2 alu 28,99 version. Ordered on monday 11.11. 172,5mm DUB alu version, so I'm wonder what arrive in the package.
As for price, ordered with pwm from Lexon official store and used 80$ Aliex. coupon, so final was 148$ for crankset alone, but waiting if it will be catch by customs :) (I am from EU)
what is the total price included the power meter? did you buy the shimano compatible one?
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what is the total price included the power meter? did you buy the shimano compatible one?
Like I wrote I bought cheaper 28,99mm DUB alu version, total it was includet pwm 371,34$
From tomorrow is black friday with the same price like 11.11. and 80$ cupoun you can find here: https://promossale.com/aliexpress-promo-code-and-coupon-november-2024/
But this is all specific for EU. Prices on Aliex are includet VAT and in the end deducted because of 150Euro rules and you finally pay VAT (customs) in your country. (If you are lucky not)
btw on the official Aliex Lexon page are pictures of new alu 28,99mm dub crank and weight is 365g
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Is anyone using this with the Ryet chainrings they sell along with it?
I bought some with it and they don't fit on the spider provided (it's too tight, I might be able to bash it on with a hammer or something but...yeah I don't really think that's good.)
There's also an incredibly powerful chemical stench that wafted out of the box when I opened it...had to open up my garage to air it out. :o
The crank arms/spindle look pretty nice. Chainrings and spider look pretty cheap compared to low end Shimano/Sram like 105/Apex.
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I’ve got a set of the 30mm DUB axle cranks I got over the summer for 180.00 USD. Running them on an old Spesh frame with BSA BB. I just sourced a cheap BSA BB that could handle 30mm spindle.
So far no major issues. Only noticed a minor wobble/oscillation, about 2mm. I checked the spider, couldn’t find any issues. Swapped the Stone chainrings over to Ultegra. Reduced it significantly but I can still see or sense it. Probably need a different spider. I put the Stone chainraings on a different bike, no issues with oscillation. Overall, I’m very happy.
So happy, that I ordered a set of the 24mm spindle cranks for a new build. 250.00 USD is hard to beat. Right now they are selling for 233.00 with coupons. I received mine today with the RYET chainrings. Have not tested them but just an initial inspection out of the box, I’m very impressed.
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I’ve got a set of the 30mm DUB axle cranks I got over the summer for 180.00 USD. Running them on an old Spesh frame with BSA BB. I just sourced a cheap BSA BB that could handle 30mm spindle.
So far no major issues. Only noticed a minor wobble/oscillation, about 2mm. I checked the spider, couldn’t find any issues. Swapped the Stone chainrings over to Ultegra. Reduced it significantly but I can still see or sense it. Probably need a different spider. I put the Stone chainraings on a different bike, no issues with oscillation. Overall, I’m very happy.
So happy, that I ordered a set of the 24mm spindle cranks for a new build. 250.00 USD is hard to beat. Right now they are selling for 233.00 with coupons. I received mine today with the RYET chainrings. Have not tested them but just an initial inspection out of the box, I’m very impressed.
Do your chainrings fit on the spider easily?
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Yes. I have run both Stone rings and Ultegra rings. No issues with fit.
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So it looks, that is not heavier just the 24mm titan version, but also new V2 alu 28,99 version. Ordered on monday 11.11. 172,5mm DUB alu version, so I'm wonder what arrive in the package.
As for price, ordered with pwm from Lexon official store and used 80$ Aliex. coupon, so final was 148$ for crankset alone, but waiting if it will be catch by customs :) (I am from EU)
So today after some time on customs crank arrived. Ordered 11.11. in package was version 1 with black screw. Weight 330g without spider (lenght 172,5). But it looks, like somebody returned this piece, on the screw are scratches partially masked with black marker, also some minor scratch in gloss lacquer. Somebody tried unproper tool on it. :(
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You ordered just the crankset? Do they supply the spider too?
Ah with pwm.
Ok
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oof
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Looks like Lexon has released a no logo version in 29mm spindle
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006674010117.html?channel=twinner
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Meh, they ruined it, new design is too heavy
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Honestly the problem with this now is that the new Red E1 cranks are available in places for not a lot more than the Lexon Crankset, which has sort of blown the Cybrei, Lexon and Elilee cranksets out of the water.
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Honestly the problem with this now is that the new Red E1 cranks are available in places for not a lot more than the Lexon Crankset, which has sort of blown the Cybrei, Lexon and Elilee cranksets out of the water.
Yeah. Only reason to go for any of these is either 24 mm or 100-200 sacings
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Meh, E1 cranks still don't have great availability in EU, the smaller sizes aren't even listed in most places.
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Meh, E1 cranks still don't have great availability in EU, the smaller sizes aren't even listed in most places.
They release in Feb 25. Unless you're racing cx it's still winter season so anyone considering a pair of lexons could just stick stick with something temporary / heavy / cheap until then.
I bought a pair of the 24 ti axles in black Friday, but unless they fit and work immaculately out of the box they're getting a PayPal claim and returned. UK shops already offering preorders on 165 E1 for £290.
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I'm seeing $400 for the new Red crank for the arms alone, $700 for 2x with a weight of 557g with 2x, 309g for arms/spindle.
The Ti spindle with 50/34 rings and spider weigh 581g, I wound up paying $264 for them. Not in the same universe as Red E1 pricewise for a 24g penalty.
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I'm seeing $400 for the new Red crank for the arms alone, $700 for 2x with a weight of 557g with 2x, 309g for arms/spindle.
The Ti spindle with 50/34 rings and spider weigh 581g, I wound up paying $264 for them. Not in the same universe as Red E1 pricewise for a 24g penalty.
Perhaps this is just the vagaries of euro pricing then - even with BF codes my lexon 24mm crank was £209.22, so £70 less than I paid for to preorder the E1.
So is 50g saved on the crank for £70, and no requirement to deal with the hassle of the spacers not fitting and binding as everyone seems to have found.
I'd never include rings / spider as you need that for both, but theexon rings are like 180g for the set; I just can't see the justification for these. They are significantly heavier than 105 for poorer shifting. Just buy 105?
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Lexon is being irritating to deal with. The chainrings they sent with the order don't fit the spider.
(http://i.imgur.com/9PDkBiG.jpeg)
(http://i.imgur.com/438FrT7.jpeg)
Been trying to get someone at Lexon to deal with this for a week now and they just keep sending me a response of "can you try pressing it in?" after multiple explanations that they don't fit and I can't just 'press it in.'
There is legit interference in the fit, I'd have to file part of the chainring to get them to fit together.
Chinese products are just getting more and more unappealing. They are moving their prices up to actual brand names but are often way more annoying to deal with.
I weighed mine: here are the weights
Arms: 170mm 357g
50/34 rings+spider: 219g
Bolts: 8g
Lockring for spider: 5g
Total: 589g Typical price seems to be $260-300
Compared to
Red E1 165mm 2x 557g $700
(difference of -32g)
Shimano Dura Ace 170mm crank 50/34 685g Typical price range is between $400 and $500
(difference of +96g)
I can't find the weight of 105 chainrings, are you sure they are lighter than 180g for the 50 and 34?
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Lexon is being irritating to deal with. The chainrings they sent with the order don't fit the spider.
(http://i.imgur.com/9PDkBiG.jpeg)
(http://i.imgur.com/438FrT7.jpeg)
Been trying to get someone at Lexon to deal with this for a week now and they just keep sending me a response of "can you try pressing it in?" after multiple explanations that they don't fit and I can't just 'press it in.'
There is legit interference in the fit, I'd have to file part of the chainring to get them to fit together.
Chinese products are just getting more and more unappealing. They are moving their prices up to actual brand names but are often way more annoying to deal with.
If I was you I would just use a dremel or file and a little persuasion to make it fit.
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Would returning be way easier?
On their official stores listing they say the axle is chromoly. That seems a bit weird.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007788853030.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=60908498758&aff_fcid=cfbaedec82394595b8ce32c149e3efe6-1733764001834-08568-_EulpzTA&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EulpzTA&aff_platform=default&sk=_EulpzTA&aff_trace_key=cfbaedec82394595b8ce32c149e3efe6-1733764001834-08568-_EulpzTA&shareId=60908498758&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=6fe2c017f0fc4d8cad3ececfb78a028d&afSmartRedirect=y
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Was looking at putting together my lexon crank today with the xcadey power meter. Everything fits into place nicely. But when I hand tighten down the PM spider onto the crank there is about .5 mm to 1mm of play.
IE: I can rattle the PM on the crank. Do people normally put a spacer between the PM and the crank? If so which side of the PM and what size spacer? I would assume the charger side of the PM. It feels important as the side the spacer is on will impact the chain line, not by much but you never know.
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Was looking at putting together my lexon crank today with the xcadey power meter. Everything fits into place nicely. But when I hand tighten down the PM spider onto the crank there is about .5 mm to 1mm of play.
IE: I can rattle the PM on the crank.
I noticed the same. But after I tightened up the lock ring to 30Nm with a torque wrench, the play was gone.
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Thank you, I will give it a go tonight and hopefully it solves itself.
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Which tool do I need? I have a small one that I use to remove my disc brakes and cassettes. Is that really sufficient? They show on with what seems to be more teeth on their picture. Both are called freewheel remover.
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I used an old tool that was originally made for installing and removing square taper and octalink bottom brackets.
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I used an old tool that was originally made for installing and removing square taper and octalink bottom brackets.
Ah that one. Thanks!
https://www.bike-components.de/de/3min19sec/Innenlagerwerkzeug-Octalink-und-Vierkant-fuer-32-mm-p65181/?o=1000227995-schwarz-universal&delivery_country=DE&upid=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20412471827&utm_content=157110081292&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAiA6t-6BhA3EiwAltRFGJ5WPwGmFYyD0GoN4J4g7OOhPizMcrU440961RZind_qdrdZQxX_DRoCSVUQAvD_BwE
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Same tool I am using. It is 20 tooth. I had it in the tool box from when I replaced the crank on my 20yr old mtb.
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Not to necro, but has anyone else had this issue?
The lexon spindle is advertised as 92mm. It actually measures like 96mm. This is it in a bb92 pressfit BB - it's way too big to get a normal chainline.
Is this a dud?
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Hi there,
Does anyone use the new crankset with a bottom bracket Shimano (or equivalent) BBR60 BSA ? If yes, do you use crank spacers and what are the sizes that you use ? I saw a YT video in which the person uses 3mm spacers on the non-drive side.
I always use Shimano crankset with Shimano BB, so it’s pretty new to me.
Thanks for the help !
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Ok this thing is legit crap. Do not buy.
The chainrings are awful, I had the issue of it not fitting, Lexon did nothing to help so I forced them together using the bolts to basically clamp them together, eventually they deformed the surfaces that were too tight to come together.
The bolts are cheap aluminum, they are marked 7075 but I don't trust that at all. They are terribly designed so there is no hex on both sides of the bolt, it is one hex head and the other has these slots, and the outside is knurled for a vise grip, but they instantly deformed when any load was applied, incredibly soft aluminum. I would not trust these bolts at all. The knurled surfaces are all marred. You need an enormous screwdriver to span the distance of the slots, these will quickly get chewed up if you remove them more than a couple times and then removing them will be a nightmare.
(http://i.imgur.com/ztF88SZ.jpeg)
The spindle length is ridiculous and requires over 1cm of spacers for a BB86.
(http://i.imgur.com/GAJMwO5.jpeg)
The machining for the threads for the preload collar is terrible and 'facetted' more than actually round. It's very tight to move and feels awful.
(http://i.imgur.com/lyyT1rD.jpeg)
The chainring teeth are terribly profiled and suck the chain up in them.
(http://i.imgur.com/kAkxiye.jpeg)
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Oof. This is not good. I picked the same crank and chainring combo over 11.11 for 240.00 USD.
I haven’t started my build yet but I bought the 24mm version after being pleasantly surprised with the 29mm DUB version from Lexon. I have a few hundred miles on the Lexon cranks with no issues to report.
I will have to test fit the 24s to my new build and see if I have the same issues you have had.
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Why didn't you just send it back?
And with regards to testing the cranks when your build is done: Most of the issues repoman observed can be checked off bike I guess?
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Why didn't you just send it back?
And with regards to testing the cranks when your build is done: Most of the issues repoman observed can be checked off bike I guess?
Lexon doesn't really respond to messages. I've sent them probably 4-5 messages about the chainrings not fitting the spider and just get 'did you try pressing it together?' I shouldn't have to put a spare chain on the ring and fiddle with it to see if the chain sticks on it. I shouldn't have to put the bolts in a hardness tester to see if they are junk or not. The stuff should just work out of the box.
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I understand. The second part was directed at biceryder
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I understand. The second part was directed at biceryder
I have a pair of Lexons that work really well. I will test fit the 24mm cranks with the chainrings and in the BB. If I encounter any issues like repoman, I’ll send them back. So far, I only took the out of the box for a quick visual inspection. They looked really good to me.
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As above, I have the same spacing issues with a 24mm BB. The spindle is advertised as 92mm, with most bb's sitting at 90.5 so the idea being a 0.5mm drive side and then nip up with the preload coller. Unfortunately the spindle is about 96-98mm, so you'd have to whack a load of spacers either side and sort of just eyeball getting an even chainline.
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Hey,
Is it normal that I have a little gap between the crank arm and the spider powermeter ?
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As above, I have the same spacing issues with a 24mm BB. The spindle is advertised as 92mm, with most bb's sitting at 90.5 so the idea being a 0.5mm drive side and then nip up with the preload coller. Unfortunately the spindle is about 96-98mm, so you'd have to whack a load of spacers either side and sort of just eyeball getting an even chainline.
Are you going to return it?
I think a previous poster here with a video also installed a couple of spacers.
So doesn’t seem like an isolated case.
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Are you going to return it?
I think a previous poster here with a video also installed a couple of spacers.
So doesn’t seem like an isolated case.
I've raised it with the store it was bought from. I'll give them a couple of days for a solution otherwise it's going back on them.
I've posted this elsewhere but you can get Red E1 cranks for almost this price now.
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Yeah, unless you have bb86..
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Canyons all have bb 86.5 and they fit sram and shimano on them, if it was such a big deal would they do that?
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Would they care if the BBs last anything between 0.5 year and 3 years?
They’d generate revenue.
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I finally managed to fix the chain line issue on my setup. My BB is 90.5mm (BBRight). As others have pointed out with chainring issues, the same problem exists with the spider. The machining quality is poor - some tabs on the spider are 3.4mm thick, while others are 3.6mm. The spacers included are also the cheapest imaginable, and their thickness is inconsistent (not 1.5mm but 1.4mm or 1.6mm instead). I think the chain line problem comes from the spider’s incorrect depth.
I’m using Ultegra 11-speed, and to resolve the chain line issue, I had to add 3mm spacers to the drive side. However, this left no room for preload adjustment, and tightening the crank bolt added extra stress on the bearings. Additionally, with the 3mm spacers, the crank arms were no longer centered relative to the rear wheel. I figured that if I used 1.5mm spacers on the non-drive side and adjusted the preload ring by ~1.5mm, I could center the crank arms. While this helped, the chain line worsened, as the spider was pushing the chain too far in, causing it to rub against the inner plate of the front derailleur.
Here I realized the spider itself was the issue. After searching online, I found a replacement spider from Stone with similar dimensions but slightly less depth. I decided to take a chance and ordered it, and thankfully, it worked. The new spider had a ~1.5mm shallower depth, reducing the need for 3mm spacers to just 1.5mm, and I could finally use the preload ring. The chainring tabs on the Stone spider were also properly machined, with a uniform thickness of 3.5mm, similar to Shimano’s. I slightly adjusted front derailleur and everything looks okay for now, however I haven’t been able to properly test it outside yet, as it’s winter here.
Initially, I wanted to return the crankset. The seller contacted me, begging not to return it through AliExpress, as he’d lose money and the crankset would just be recycled somewhere at AliExpress's warehouse. He promised to cover all costs if I shipped it directly back to China. I asked him if he can provide any solutions and decided to give him a chance, but after two weeks of vague promises and no real solutions, I found my own fix and asked him to compensate me for the replacement spider. At first, he claimed it was too expensive and suggested splitting the cost 50/50, but eventually, he agreed to cover the full amount. However, it’s been nearly two weeks since then, and I still haven’t received any refund. Now I'm being simply ignored.
So, I DO NOT RECOMMEND buying this crankset unless you’re confident you can handle the issues yourself. The crank arms and spindle look good, the rest is bad, and if anything breaks, don’t expect much in terms of support. While I’ll probably keep the crankset, I’m still unsure about its reliability since I haven't tested it outside.
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Yeah, unless you have bb86..
I love Shimano stuff and have an absolute anathema to SRAM's business practices, quality control etc etc.
BUT
Honestly the bog standard SRAM bb86 DUB bottom brackets aren't that bad. If they aren't smooth the issue is with your frameset's finishing being of poor quality; and you can get around this fitting a wheels or token solid bb.
Yeah it's not an ideal solution; the bearings don't last quite as long as a Shimano pressfit because they have to be so small, but at the same time they aren't super expensive and the crank is like HALF the bloody weight of the Shimano option. Also it's easier to fit a Sigeyi and the shimano PM options are trash.
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Crankarm PM is perfectly fine tho.
Yeah you’re probably right.
My dura ace Bb86 doesn’t move without resistance at all, so I think it’s borderline undersized.
So that’s one of the reasons I might wanna stay away from dub. Plus 165 isn’t really available in Germany.
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Crankarm PM is perfectly fine tho.
Spider pms are more reliable than any shimano crank arm option
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I finally managed to fix the chain line issue on my setup. My BB is 90.5mm (BBRight). As others have pointed out with chainring issues, the same problem exists with the spider. The machining quality is poor - some tabs on the spider are 3.4mm thick, while others are 3.6mm. The spacers included are also the cheapest imaginable, and their thickness is inconsistent (not 1.5mm but 1.4mm or 1.6mm instead). I think the chain line problem comes from the spider’s incorrect depth.
I’m using Ultegra 11-speed, and to resolve the chain line issue, I had to add 3mm spacers to the drive side. However, this left no room for preload adjustment, and tightening the crank bolt added extra stress on the bearings. Additionally, with the 3mm spacers, the crank arms were no longer centered relative to the rear wheel. I figured that if I used 1.5mm spacers on the non-drive side and adjusted the preload ring by ~1.5mm, I could center the crank arms. While this helped, the chain line worsened, as the spider was pushing the chain too far in, causing it to rub against the inner plate of the front derailleur.
Here I realized the spider itself was the issue. After searching online, I found a replacement spider from Stone with similar dimensions but slightly less depth. I decided to take a chance and ordered it, and thankfully, it worked. The new spider had a ~1.5mm shallower depth, reducing the need for 3mm spacers to just 1.5mm, and I could finally use the preload ring. The chainring tabs on the Stone spider were also properly machined, with a uniform thickness of 3.5mm, similar to Shimano’s. I slightly adjusted front derailleur and everything looks okay for now, however I haven’t been able to properly test it outside yet, as it’s winter here.
Initially, I wanted to return the crankset. The seller contacted me, begging not to return it through AliExpress, as he’d lose money and the crankset would just be recycled somewhere at AliExpress's warehouse. He promised to cover all costs if I shipped it directly back to China. I asked him if he can provide any solutions and decided to give him a chance, but after two weeks of vague promises and no real solutions, I found my own fix and asked him to compensate me for the replacement spider. At first, he claimed it was too expensive and suggested splitting the cost 50/50, but eventually, he agreed to cover the full amount. However, it’s been nearly two weeks since then, and I still haven’t received any refund. Now I'm being simply ignored.
So, I DO NOT RECOMMEND buying this crankset unless you’re confident you can handle the issues yourself. The crank arms and spindle look good, the rest is bad, and if anything breaks, don’t expect much in terms of support. While I’ll probably keep the crankset, I’m still unsure about its reliability since I haven't tested it outside.
Yeah so they just got back to me and did the same thing - 'friend close the dispute send to this address we will offer you a discount etc etc'. The problem is as soon as I close the dispute I lose any ability to return the item and before they saw the dispute they were telling me 'its fine just put 5mm spacer drive side then tighten lock ring'.
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I think the last time I wanted to return a item the vendor tried the same.
But shipping cost would’ve been at least 50€ and also all the work with the declaration. So, no thanks.
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Yeah so they just got back to me and did the same thing - 'friend close the dispute send to this address we will offer you a discount etc etc'. The problem is as soon as I close the dispute I lose any ability to return the item and before they saw the dispute they were telling me 'its fine just put 5mm spacer drive side then tighten lock ring'.
I wouldn't trust him now. The problem is that he wants to cover the costs of shipping only. How are you going to claim the refund without having crankset is a question. Because he wants the refund to be done thru Aliexpress. And considering he is just ignoring me now completely, same thing can happen afterwards.
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Would this crank be usable with a 1x? Or is the chainline going to be massively screwed on a frame with a BB86 or (anything for that matter...it seems like their engineers designed a MTB spindle for a road spindle by mistake)?
I need to figure out what to do, Lexon Official is being really annoying saying I need to take videos of the issues and that it's normal.
Does Aliexpress have much power over the vendors to force refund and make them pay for shipping?
Here is why the chainring doesn't fit on the spider, the depth of the tab is 0.581" in one direction and 0.562" in another (0.5mm deviation)...which is pretty bad if the ID of the tabs on the ring are uniform and meant for 0.581".
(http://i.imgur.com/SXTakaM.jpeg)
(http://i.imgur.com/uV1rkIR.jpeg)
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I'm using this crankset on gravel with a direct mount chainting pass Quest and no issues.
And another One for Road tested with Ultegra chainring, no problem at all, now i've swapped the Ultegra for pass Quest with 4 Bolt using lexon spider and seems everything ok, not tested shifting quality.
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Is this with 24mm or dub ?
Don’t know if that even makes a difference
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Is this with 24mm or dub ?
Don’t know if that even makes a difference
Dub both cranksets
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Classic shit AliExpress experience update - ryet / lexon store keep desperately trying to get me to return separately. I had to upload a Vernier caliper image of the crankset (attached so others can see the problem with the crank) and a video of me talking through any the sellers 'bro just add spacers and tighten the preload ring it will be fine' was bs.
Ali have sent me a return label, and now the seller is like offering to refund me in full by PayPal before me sending it back, or even pay me 50% of the price to keep it. I'm sure there must be something true to the Ali returns waste thing, but word to the wise - your dispute is your only leverage over someone miles away so do not close it until you get what you want.
To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications. Then with a 90.5 BB width (about average for a 'bb92' frame) you stick a .5mm on the d/s, and take up 0.5 with the preload ring.
If you wanted to keep this, you would need to add a minimum of 4mm extra spacers - probably split drive to nondrive. This might be ok for 1x if you don't mind the huge q factor but with 2x you're going to either ruin your chainline or have your non drive crank so far out that you'll probably give yourself back or knee pain from uneven rocking.
Thinking about it the only place this crank might work is in a drop bar MTB for gravel with a wider BB shell
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To those still interested / persuade by this crankset you can clearly see the issue in my photo. The distance measured should be 92mm by their specifications.
I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?
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I might be misreading the photo, but it looks like you left out the lock screw for the spider/chainring(?) It's not gonna poke out 4 mm, but just to get a clearer picture: how much would the distance be with the thing on?
That was just so that I could get the calipers in better for a clean photo in the light. The locking is less than .5mm thick and makes almost no difference to the issue.
This is because it's not designed to be in contact with the BB shell - that's what the 0.5mm drive side spacer is for - to make contact with the inner race of the BB. If the lockring was in contact it would touch the outer race and the crank would bind.
In a 90.5 caliper BB width (outside of shell to outside of shell, Shimano pressfit), if you put the locking and spider on and insert into the BB, the gap between the non drive side BB face and the un-tightened preload collar is still enormous - couldn't get calipers in but you can see here it's at least 4mm.
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Is there any risk of just sending it back to ali?
I’ll get mine the next couple of days/weeks. Let’s see how wide it is. Probably the same.
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wintermute is correct. After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank. I also received my frame which the crank will go on. Two issues I will address:
1. The Lexon chainrings fit. I have the same ones as wintermute. They are “tight”, not undersized. If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts. Takes a little patience and finesse. Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine. I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.
2. Spindle length. Can confirm with wintermute on this one. It is about 4-5
mm too wide. Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build. The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD). I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:
a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)
b) Use the crank. Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer. If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.
c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm. I know I might actually be able to get this done. Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum. Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.
Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.
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I received the new design crank arms with a 29mm aluminium alloy spindle. I installed it in a frame that has a threaded T47 bottom bracket with internal bearings. The cranks fit just fine.
I added a 3mm drive-side spacer, as per the SRAM DUB instructions for T47 / 85.5mm / Road (https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf), and the preload ring took up the slack.
The spindle claims a 44mm chainline, but I haven't verified that yet.
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wintermute is correct. After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank. I also received my frame which the crank will go on. Two issues I will address:
1. The Lexon chainrings fit. I have the same ones as wintermute. They are “tight”, not undersized. If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts. Takes a little patience and finesse. Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine. I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.
2. Spindle length. Can confirm with wintermute on this one. It is about 4-5
mm too wide. Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build. The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD). I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:
a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)
b) Use the crank. Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer. If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.
c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm. I know I might actually be able to get this done. Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum. Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.
Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.
What’s your pain with 2a? alias offers free returns?
Is there something I’m missing?
I’ll probably lose the taxes I’ll have to spend when I return it, as my package is currently at the border being checked
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wintermute is correct. After returning from some work-related travel I was able to more closely inspect the Lexon 24mm crank. I also received my frame which the crank will go on. Two issues I will address:
1. The Lexon chainrings fit. I have the same ones as wintermute. They are “tight”, not undersized. If you carefully place them on the spider, they fit in just right. I
O, it’s similar to fitting Shimano chainrings to a Shimano crank with the bonded chainring bolts. Takes a little patience and finesse. Regarding the chainring bolts, yes they are soft aluminum. They also fit and mine tightened down just fine. I will say that they are probably one time use bolts.
2. Spindle length. Can confirm with wintermute on this one. It is about 4-5
mm too wide. Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build. The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD). I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:
a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)
b) Use the crank. Use the supplied spacers and ride it till summer. If the Q factor and chainline can’t be adquately dealt with over 4mm difference, then I will just order the Elilee 310 next summer.
c) Find a local tool and die shop that can turn down a titanium shaft by 4mm. I know I might actually be able to get this done. Titanium is tough to cut but it is also very soft, like aluminum. Anyone with a lathe should be able take a few mm off of it.
Hope this info helps anyone who needs to make an informed purchase in the far East.
Elilee has 94mm spindle length according to the their spec. I would assume the situation will be same or similar to Lexon that states 92mm but it is actually longer.
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https://youtu.be/Fwc-NjzX7QU?si=cn8K3EpOZ_UAEq_0
This guy also installs 3mm spacers NDS and a washer drive side on the x310
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https://youtu.be/Fwc-NjzX7QU?si=cn8K3EpOZ_UAEq_0
This guy also installs 3mm spacers NDS and a washer drive side on the x310
The issue I have here is that he's gone +3mm on the NDS. This is necessary because you can only space out the DS before you fuck up your shifting. But this is not the same as getting the cranks centred in the frameset, which is more important for bike fit; the most important part of which is for it to at least start symmetrical!
2. Spindle length. Can confirm with wintermute on this one. It is about 4-5
mm too wide. Ironically, they provide more than enough spacers to make up the difference. I’m in the process of doing a new build. The crank was my “cheaper” alternative to purchasing an Elilee (saves me about 250.00USD). I have been using the DUB version of Lexon’s crank all summer with very little drama. Right now I have three options:
a) return the crank, fight it out to get a refund. Purchase a more expensive crank. (FWIW, I view all Aliexpress purchases as a total gamble. I try not to get emotional about the purchases.)
So Aliexpress accepted my return and it's free. Lexon have also offered to paypal me the total price of the crank including taxes, and then me send it back on a separate label. If they do this out of goodwill I don't mind doing it. I told them I'd keep it for a 50% refund.
It appears the elilee / other cranks are also this long. I've been scanning the Cybrei / Elilee threads, but there are relatively few people discussing the axle length issue and/or things that have been done to accomodate it.
The only way I could sort of see around it - if say Ryet/Lexon send me a 50% refund or whatever and I keep the crank - is to trial and error space the crank out by c.3mm and use vernier calipers to measure the distance to something central like the seat tube. It might end up with like 1.5mm on each side, or 2mm ds 1mm nds. Then you'd still be a little worried about chainline but it might be ok on, say a gravel bike.
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The issue I have here is that he's gone +3mm on the NDS. This is necessary because you can only space out the DS before you fuck up your shifting. But this is not the same as getting the cranks centred in the frameset, which is more important for bike fit; the most important part of which is for it to at least start symmetrical!
So Aliexpress accepted my return and it's free. Lexon have also offered to paypal me the total price of the crank including taxes, and then me send it back on a separate label. If they do this out of goodwill I don't mind doing it. I told them I'd keep it for a 50% refund.
It appears the elilee / other cranks are also this long. I've been scanning the Cybrei / Elilee threads, but there are relatively few people discussing the axle length issue and/or things that have been done to accomodate it.
The only way I could sort of see around it - if say Ryet/Lexon send me a 50% refund or whatever and I keep the crank - is to trial and error space the crank out by c.3mm and use vernier calipers to measure the distance to something central like the seat tube. It might end up with like 1.5mm on each side, or 2mm ds 1mm nds. Then you'd still be a little worried about chainline but it might be ok on, say a gravel bike.
Let us know if you manage to get 50% refund. As soon as i closed the dispute, they just started ignoring me and i haven't got anything.
Also, if you get that refund, i suggest to try Stone spider. It will remove 1mm from DS and you could evenly distribute it and improve chain line.
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Following up on my previous post about the gap between the power meter and the crankarm, I reached out to Lexon, and they assured me that this gap is normal. Being a bit stubborn and skeptical about their response, I decided to take everything apart and remount it. After doing so, I can confirm that this gap is indeed “normal.”
In addition, after receiving a set of spacers I ordered from AliExpress, I went ahead and mounted the crankset on my bike. My bottom bracket is a Shimano BBR60. Before installing the Lexon crankset, I measured how many spacers I needed. If you check picture (1), you’ll see that I had 1.5 cm of spindle remaining with my Shimano R8100 Ultegra crank arms. After adding a 1mm spacer on the non-drive side, I achieved the same 1.5 cm clearance with the Lexon crankset.
From what I can tell, this crankset pairs well with the BBR60. It spins just as smoothly as my R8100 Ultegra crankset. I’ll be testing it out on Zwift during the holidays, and I’ll update you if anything comes up. So far, so good!
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I don't think they'll go for the partial, but in endless chatting to their customer service (AliExpress disputes must do something to the store like prevent them from getting money out or something as the open dispute seems to be really unpleasant for them) they got their designer to message me. He agreed the crank is 'too long', their solution is 2mm spacers D/S, 1.5mm Spacers NDS + 0.5mm from preload ring.
Obviously this results in a +2mm q factor both sides and a +2mm chainline which may or may not be an issue for you depending on how your chainrings and pedals are mounted or your fit.
Hope that helps those that keep it.
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Interesting. One thing I don’t quite understand yet fully: if the elilee spindle is the same length or even longer: why aren’t there any complaints? (At least as far as I can tell from regular visits to the weightweenie thread).
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Interesting. One thing I don’t quite understand yet fully: if the elilee spindle is the same length or even longer: why aren’t there any complaints? (At least as far as I can tell from regular visits to the weightweenie thread).
I agree, at least, if the elilee axle is that long. I think part of it may be that the 24mm solution doesn't space out the same as a DUB solution, which is the format in which most people have interacted with these cranks. It may be that I'm being ridiculous, or it may be that people don't think about q factor as much?
Finally, I perhaps accept the influence that Red E1 165mms are £299 in the UK on preorder, if you're willing to be patient to the new year. These are 50g lighter than the lexons for not really all that much more.
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I agree, at least, if the elilee axle is that long. I think part of it may be that the 24mm solution doesn't space out the same as a DUB solution, which is the format in which most people have interacted with these cranks. It may be that I'm being ridiculous, or it may be that people don't think about q factor as much?
Finally, I perhaps accept the influence that Red E1 165mms are £299 in the UK on preorder, if you're willing to be patient to the new year. These are 50g lighter than the lexons for not really all that much more.
Is 2 mm q-factor difference really so noticeable for most people? I exchanged my grx crank for 105 on my gravel (because of 4iii powermeter on 105) last year. They are supposed to have 2.5 mm q-factor difference and I did not notice anything at all. I actually found out retroactively.
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Is 2 mm q-factor difference really so noticeable for most people? I exchanged my grx crank for 105 on my gravel (because of 4iii powermeter on 105) last year. They are supposed to have 2.5 mm q-factor difference and I did not notice anything at all. I actually found out retroactively.
4mm - 2mm each side
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Yeah I know. 105 vs GRX is 5 mm total, so 2.5 mm each side
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Obviously this results in a +2mm q factor both sides ...
Meant to ask much earlier in this thread. Did you measure q?
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I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.
So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.
I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.
Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?
You willsee I complained about similar in on the 29mm version. In the end I made them work as I wanted them, but I also found the q-factor wider than I wanted. You should be able to shorten each side of the axle by at least 1mm without problems with spline engagement.
I was thinking of getting a newer 29mm set, with the loose axle, then it can be shortened. I also wanted to see if other bb30/dub axles fit their spline interface, seeing as this copies easton and they use a standard bb30 interface.
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Let us know if you manage to get 50% refund. As soon as i closed the dispute, they just started ignoring me and i haven't got anything.
Also, if you get that refund, i suggest to try Stone spider. It will remove 1mm from DS and you could evenly distribute it and improve chain line.
FYI i have just received the refund for the replacement spider.
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PSA: Check your NDS crank bolt torque
I took my newly rebuilt bike out for the first proper shakedown ride today, previously I had only done a few laps of the block and a fit session on the trainer.
After some sprint efforts, I noticed what at first felt like a loose cleat - the left shoe somehow felt like it had too much float. But I could unclip and clip in again just fine, so I continued. When I got home I realized that the NDS crank arm was coming loose from the spindle! Had I continued much further, the crank arm would likely have come off completely.
I have the 29mm aluminium spindle version with the black crank arms (no big Lexon graphic), and the NDS crank arm came attached to the spindle out of the box. I torqued the DS crank arm properly when I installed the crankset, but I naively assumed that the factory would have attached the NDS crank arm to spec, and so I didn't verify that during assembly.
I have now torqued both sides properly, and I will do a few more shakedown rides before I take on anything serious. I'll report back here if anything else happens.
For reference, my bike uses a T47 bottom bracket with internal bearings. On the initial installation I used a 3mm spacers on the DS (as per the SRAM DUB spec for non-wide road crankset), but I replaced this with a 2mm this time, mainly because the crank arms seemed to extend a touch further out on the DS compared to the NDS (by the inaccurate method of judging distance to the chainstays).
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Completed my build a few days ago. For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo). I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs. With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB. I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent. Chain line seems to be right.
Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price. I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD. I got my DUB cranks for 180.00. Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.
MAJOR ISSUE: Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks. Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer). Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring. It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly. My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work). It was an immediate fix. Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks.
In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues. (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)
I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs. In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends. Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.
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But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?
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Completed my build a few days ago. For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo). I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs. With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB. I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent. Chain line seems to be right.
Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price. I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD. I got my DUB cranks for 180.00. Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.
MAJOR ISSUE: Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks. Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer). Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring. It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly. My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work). It was an immediate fix. Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks.
In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues. (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)
I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs. In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends. Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.
Would you recommend it for 24mm version + the powermeter? I am assembling new bike, as the previous one it has BB86, I was running 30mm spindle in it and it is clearly bad, so for now I am transferring to cheap 3-bolt interface 24mm spindle crankset where I could accomodate my p2max, but considering some lighter 24mm options as a future upgrade.
But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?
Usually you check for distance from the centre of the bike and check for lateral play.
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I have the 24m version with xcadey spider power meter, and there is no problems with alignment or anything.
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But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?
good bottom bracket should has manual and come to you with a few spacer. On manual everything is expanded. I ordered crank but not haven't installed yet. In attachment instruction from my manual.
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good bottom bracket should has manual and come to you with a few spacer. On manual everything is expanded. I ordered crank but not haven't installed yet. In attachment instruction from my manual.
Exactly this. My BB came with a similar chart. For Shimano road cranks it recommended no spacers. If I added 2mm of spacers on each side that was recommended for DUB road wide cranks.
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Would you recommend it for 24mm version + the powermeter? I am assembling new bike, as the previous one it has BB86, I was running 30mm spindle in it and it is clearly bad, so for now I am transferring to cheap 3-bolt interface 24mm spindle crankset where I could accomodate my p2max, but considering some lighter 24mm options as a future upgrade.
Usually you check for distance from the centre of the bike and check for lateral play.
I don’t have a good answer for you. I have a power meter pedals.
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I have the 24m version with xcadey spider power meter, and there is no problems with alignment or anything.
What's your BB?
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But how do I know that I need more spacers? Or I have too many installed?
(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.
My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.
Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length. I'll use them on a gravel bike.
And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.
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(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.
My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.
Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length.
And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.
Wintermute, I’m down to 1.5mm in spacers on each side after replacing the spider. Two spiders out of true, on two seperate cranksets. Totally worth replacing with a Stone spider. Did a quick 1hr ride the other day after replacing the spider. Absolutely made me feel better about the purchase.
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(93mm - (your measured BB external width) )/2 each side, remembering the preload ring counts for 0.5mm.
My BB width (outside of cup to outside of cup) was 90mm with a ht2 BB. So 93-90=3. I put 1.5 ds, 1 NDS, then nipped 0.5 with the preload ring.
Fwiw, I kept them and got a partial for the false advertising of the spindle length. I'll use them on a gravel bike.
And yes my spider is out of true, although not so bad it contacts the mech cage so it'll just wear out the chainrings if I don't replace it.
Interesting. How much % if you don’t mind me asking.
Also, thanks for your instruction. Why do you say 93 if your measured width was about 96?(is this wrt to the ideal 83?)
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Interesting. How much % if you don’t mind me asking.
Also, thanks for your instruction. Why do you say 93 if your measured width was about 96?(is this wrt to the ideal 83?)
Because 93 is what it's meant to be according to lexon. I'm just giving you an example so that you can work it out for yourself as a starting point. You may need to Vernier caliper your cranks and your BB.
Two other fuckabouts with this crank.
1. Like above, my spider is not true and oscillates. It doesn't sound as bad as 1.5mm, but it is enough to notice. That said, I think part of this is about the BCD of the holes being out of spec and warping the chainring when it's tightened up. It was almost impossible to get my Shimano rings onto it and I had to use the bolts to pull the rings into place.
2. Whilst the q factor is huge due to all of the extra spacing (and frustratingly the recessed pedal threads require spacers for assiomas making it all worse) the actual spider mount chainline with a 1.5mm ds spacer is closer to the frame than a Shimano crank. This means that my 50 outer ring actually has gouged a fine line in the chain stay due to a combination of this and the oscillation.
Joys.
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Hi all - in the process of upgrading / lightening my gravel build I came across this crankset (especially because of the shorter crank arms). I currently run a GRX FC-RX610 1x12 setup on a Caad SuperX 2019 (BB Shell 83mm) using wheels mfg reducer for 30 -> 24mm compatibility
I am wondering if these cranks would work at all, especially considering the spindle length issue mentioned previously. Q-factor for them are the same, but chainline for the GRX is 5.2 mm wider. Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated!
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Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks for the helpful comments. I have just ordered a Lexon crank, 29mm DUB and 170mm.
Along with a Power2max (P2M) it fits really good. My frame has a BSA bottom bracket and I have a Moquai BB with ceramic bearings. A 3mm spacer on the drive side (recommended in the BB manual) and the crank fits perfectly. Chainline and shifting performance seems good, but so far only tested on the indoor trainer.
Tip: I bought the crank from the Lexon Ebay store and not from Aliexpress. It was a much cheaper alternative, at least for shipping to Germany - maybe do a cross check to save a bit.
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Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks for the helpful comments. I have just ordered a Lexon crank, 29mm DUB and 170mm.
Along with a Power2max (P2M) it fits really good. My frame has a BSA bottom bracket and I have a Moquai BB with ceramic bearings. A 3mm spacer on the drive side (recommended in the BB manual) and the crank fits perfectly. Chainline and shifting performance seems good, but so far only tested on the indoor trainer.
What P2Max spider you have? For Easton?
Hi all - in the process of upgrading / lightening my gravel build I came across this crankset (especially because of the shorter crank arms). I currently run a GRX FC-RX610 1x12 setup on a Caad SuperX 2019 (BB Shell 83mm) using wheels mfg reducer for 30 -> 24mm compatibility
I am wondering if these cranks would work at all, especially considering the spindle length issue mentioned previously. Q-factor for them are the same, but chainline for the GRX is 5.2 mm wider. Any thoughts or previous experiences would be appreciated!
Do you plan to use this cranks as 1x? If yes, this will work fine, in worst case you can also extend the chainline by using 1x-specific chainring bolts or spacers.
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Completed my build a few days ago. For the record I have Lexon 29mm DUB cranks on an other bike (the version with the purple logo). I admit these do have a longish spindle for 24mm Shimano style BBs. With tightening everything down, I have about 3mm of play on my T47 BB. I ran a 1.5mm of Wheels MFG spacers on the NDS and 1mm on the DS. I do not recommend using the supplied spacers as they are not very consistent. Chain line seems to be right.
Reason for purchasing Lexon is obviously the price. I got my 24mm cranks with chainrings for about 300.00USD. I got my DUB cranks for 180.00. Considering the fact that I was about to buy Elilee cranks for 450.00+shipping w/o chainrings during 11.11, Lexon seems like a no-brainer gamble, IMO.
MAJOR ISSUE: Replace the spider immediately or do not buy Lexon cranks. Both of my Lexon cranks had an out of spec spider. I went thru all the trouble shooting with my DUB crank and ended up just making adjustments to the FD to deal with it (not the right answer). Issue is that one of the arms on the spider is out of tolerance and causes a 1-1.5mm deviation in the chainring. It occilates and will hit the FD cage ever so slightly. My solution: replace the stock spider with a Stone spider (Eastons won’t work). It was an immediate fix. Problem is now you just added 44.00 to your total cost of new cranks.
In the future I will not recommend these cranks unless you are willing to spend extra and play with the clearance issues. (q factor is a non-issue for my fit)
I have a local tool and die shop that does small jobs. In the future I may see if they can turn down the spindle by 1.5mm on both ends. Right now, everything is working great, so no need yet.
Is there a reason you didn't try (or nobody else has tried) the official Easton 2x 110BCD spider?
https://www.silverfish-uk.com/products/ea8022669_easton-spider-cinch-asymmetric-4-bolt-110mm-bcd
(https://fawkes-cycles.co.uk/easton-spider-cinch-asymmetric-4-bolt-110mm-bcd-p26848)
It's half the price of the aliexpress versions for an OEM?
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not sure it fits on lexon crankarm
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I tried an Easton spider back in the summer. They are not compatible with the Lexon cranks.
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What P2Max spider you have? For Easton?
Exactly, a P2M with Easton interface. Model: NGeco Road Easton Powermeter
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Stone released a new spider 110BCD that you can get for $30 on Ali. It fits pretty well in comparison to the one that Lexon provides.
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Btw
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DFS-Carbon-Fibre-Crank-Ultra-Light_11000021077457.html
https://www.carbonbikekits.com/carbon-bicycle-crankset
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have any of you used a replacement spacer ops the 24mm spider lockring? saw rides of japans video now and saw they include a spacer. during boiling I noticed the lack of any supplied spacer with my lexon and had doubts whether the spacers will even work.
did you just buy wider ones?
btw measured mine and it came out at about 94,7 mm. Not 96. Not 93.
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https://www.carbonbikekits.com/carbon-bicycle-crankset?search=Crank
These fellas have there crank out now too!
24 and 29mm spindle options
$299 for 29 and $319 for 24.
I’m assuming strongly these and other brands cranks as they all look
The same are coming out of 1 or 2 factories.
The Lexon Cranks has Carbonworks on the inside arm crank sticker.
Anyone have any more information?
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Anyone tried rockbros carbon crank?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008035048012.html
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https://www.carbonbikekits.com/carbon-bicycle-crankset
Thanks.
I just took the chance to order one from carbonbikekits. ;D
* 165 mm
* 24 mm axle
* spider 4x110 mm BCD
I am about to replace my Dura-Ace 172.5 mm cranks with it. Will keep the DA chainrings.
Just need to decide later on, whether I‘ll go for a spider PM or (new) Assioma.
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Thanks.
I just took the chance to order one from carbonbikekits. ;D
* 165 mm
* 24 mm axle
* spider 4x110 mm BCD
I am about to replace my Dura-Ace 172.5 mm cranks with it. Will keep the DA chainrings.
Just need to decide later on, whether I‘ll go for a spider PM or (new) Assioma.
When are you due for delivery?
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When are you due for delivery?
The status of the order is still “processed”.
I am in no hurry. Will keep you posted.
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I’m looking at the carbonbikekits crank but I also want to wait until Peter releases his crank. Depending on price I may just order from Peter.
Would love to hear feed back on the CBK crank. For price, the weight is far
more competitive than Lexon’s offerings.
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After a few months of this it's a blood nightmare. The crank arms on the 24mm keep coming loose and clicking and fucking up bottom brackets.
I've had to retorque them maybe 15 times in three months.
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The status of the order is still “processed”.
I am in no hurry. Will keep you posted.
Did u receive the item? How is it ?
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Anyone happen to come across any solid Sram 8 bolt options anywhere?
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General question on this and other Carbon cranksets. I am around 100kg and wondering how carbon cranks hold up with heavier riders. Any experience or ideas?
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General question on this and other Carbon cranksets. I am around 100kg and wondering how carbon cranks hold up with heavier riders. Any experience or ideas?
Most are rated 120-130kgs
Anyone have photos of the new finish Lexon crank?
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So I feel like I should make a post on here about this.
Third ride, my lexon 24mm cranks failed catastrophically.
The bolt that holds the crank arm on the left arm sheared off at the head whilst riding; the crank arm came away still attached to my foot. I'm lucky I'm still here. The bolt is clearly made of cheap aluminium (when you hold it in your hand it's way too light).
I suggest everyone checks this bolt for stress risers or fatigue. Similarly, be careful with the torque. It says capable of 45nm. I torqued to 40 and that felt like a lot - obviously too much for this.
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That is really crazy and unfortunate. Glad you’re okay. I’ve been riding my 24mm Lexon cranks pretty much daily. No issues. I remember watching a Trace Velo episode where he had a cheap pair of cranks that broke in the same place your’s did.
My biggest gripe with the Lexon cranks is that either their chainrings or spiders are out of spec. I have had non-stop issues with a oscillating chainrings causing minor cage rub on the FD. After switching to a Stone spider and Stone chainrings I was able to eliminate the oscillation. This was also an issue with my 29mm Lexon cranks.
I may cave and order some Elilees or Cyberei later this year. Your post gives pause about continuing ride on them for safety reasons.
FWIW, I have removed and installed my Lexon cranks multiple times.
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That is really crazy and unfortunate. Glad you’re okay. I’ve been riding my 24mm Lexon cranks pretty much daily. No issues. I remember watching a Trace Velo episode where he had a cheap pair of cranks that broke in the same place your’s did.
My biggest gripe with the Lexon cranks is that either their chainrings or spiders are out of spec. I have had non-stop issues with a oscillating chainrings causing minor cage rub on the FD. After switching to a Stone spider and Stone chainrings I was able to eliminate the oscillation. This was also an issue with my 29mm Lexon cranks.
I may cave and order some Elilees or Cyberei later this year. Your post gives pause about continuing ride on them for safety reasons.
FWIW, I have removed and installed my Lexon cranks multiple times.
I don't know about you, but removing the cranks always felt unpleasant - there was a nasty creak/squeak as the bolt forced itself against the outer cover to pull the crank off.
Frustratingly I suspect Lexon will ignore my messages about this - because I already had a dispute with them over the spacing and spider. Whatever happens, I won't be going back to the system. I got them on the highest sale alongside a code and a refund that made them probably only £120ish total. A replacement pair is over £275. A Cybrei is close to £400.
Red E1's can be had for 299. The only issue would be if you had a frame that couldn't take DUB bearings.
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So I feel like I should make a post on here about this.
Third ride, my lexon 24mm cranks failed catastrophically.
The bolt that holds the crank arm on the left arm sheared off at the head whilst riding; the crank arm came away still attached to my foot. I'm lucky I'm still here. The bolt is clearly made of cheap aluminium (when you hold it in your hand it's way too light).
I suggest everyone checks this bolt for stress risers or fatigue. Similarly, be careful with the torque. It says capable of 45nm. I torqued to 40 and that felt like a lot - obviously too much for this.
Rule of thumb for chineese stuff is to replace excessively light parts with something more robust. I've had uncommon alloy bolts on my carbon cockpit (vedge-type mounting) which came loose very often until I rounded them during quick field fix. Changed them to steel bolts and have no issues since then with only 2g difference.