VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[hazzer19]

Can I get this out?

I've removed in the past and drilled it out as well to fit the Di2 cable. There should be a hex bolt to loosen it?

[hazzer19]

Never had more issues in a build. That aside, here is the latest.

The stem clamp bolt just spins out because some genius at Velobuild put a round nut in a round hole.

When it hits the point of tension where it should grip the whole thing, it just spins in the carbon hole. The bolt is not threaded. It is the nut and bolt spinning together in perfect unison because the bolt has nowhere to grip.

Apart from smashing this turd with a sledgehammer, any suggestions?

Does the nut not have a hex head that you can hold in place with another tool? That's how mine are, and I have to use two tools occasionally.

[BAcy]

I've removed in the past and drilled it out as well to fit the Di2 cable. There should be a hex bolt to loosen it?

Yes but even when loosened I couldn't get it out. It was making scary creaking noises and also I wasn't sure if I would be able to put it back in after.

[trytogo]

Does the nut not have a hex head that you can hold in place with another tool? That's how mine are, and I have to use two tools occasionally.

No, unfortunately, the nut side is round, and once the thread is at the point of engaging, it's already past flush to get another tool in. A real dumb piece of engineering by Velobuild. About to just part it off and buy a complete build as I'm out of time to prep for a trip next week.

[trytogo]

The bolt is now stuck in the stem and I can't even get the handlebar off.

Thanks Velobuild *slow clap*

[RasmusWH]

No, unfortunately, the nut side is round, and once the thread is at the point of engaging, it's already past flush to get another tool in. A real dumb piece of engineering by Velobuild. About to just part it off and buy a complete build as I'm out of time to prep for a trip next week.

Both of mine also have hex heads, weird..

[trytogo]

Both of mine also have hex heads, weird..

Is it hex internal on the bolt side with a round on the outside? That's how mine are, but screwing in, the bolt goes past the point of being able to get a hex head, and the screw is protruding out the other side. Designed with zero thought, will have to trash the whole handlebar assembly but with all the other issues on the frame really hesitant to stuff more money and time into this build which is likely a lemon regardless.

[mux]

I appreciate your experience, but it's just impossible to believe. 250 watts for average rider is 34-35 kph (21-21.7 mph) and 3-4 mph (4.8 - 6.4 kph) difference which you claim, it's around 100 watt difference in power, it's insane. The vbr268 must be made from noodles.

I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.

[Sakizashi]

I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.

I think the context of @patliean1 's comment is not claiming the aero difference of the bikes, but rather suggesting that he rides faster given the same average wattage on the SL8 due to better comfort (and likely therefore different body position) over broken pavement. I think the 3-4mph claim is probably high, but he also said its a "bro science" observation (i.e., not well measured) and he is a larger rider than me so IDK. For me, I have seen a 3+mph difference between sitting up on the hoods and aerobars, but not quite hoods to aero hoods

[rasch]

Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)

[Serge_K]

Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)

How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.

[rasch]

 

How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.

I'd say it's not about taking a PhD or how hard it is. People are looking for marginal gains.For those who notice and make use of those marginal gains, I'm sure they are or can easily be sponsored.

[RasmusWH]

Is it hex internal on the bolt side with a round on the outside? That's how mine are, but screwing in, the bolt goes past the point of being able to get a hex head, and the screw is protruding out the other side. Designed with zero thought, will have to trash the whole handlebar assembly but with all the other issues on the frame really hesitant to stuff more money and time into this build which is likely a lemon regardless.

Same mechanism for me but I can get enough tension before it protrudes and hit the hex key. Perhaps you can measure the length of the bolt, it might be longer than the ones I got?

[trytogo]

Thanks Rasmus,

Yeh I think you called it right my bolts are too long. It's the same mechanism as yours in the photo, but mine are protruding through over a cm, so I can't get a hex in there. They just spun to the point the carbon is worn through now and any retention is impossible. Really sloppy on behalf of VB but I already saw that in a few areas on the frame.

Paint overspill on the bars into the holes that catch the spacers, making them not fit.
Blockage in the right chainstay made it a hassle to get the cable to the FD. (it ended up being a plasticky latex piece, probably from the molding; stuck a camera in, and the carbon looked good, though.

Steapost will need clamping hard and some paste.

The brakes needed some adjustment because of the paint overspill.

1 set of rails for the saddle, luckily correct for me.

Mine did have drainage hole predrilled for anyone wondering.

The frame looks good, non of the above should cause concerns once its rolling but the build has been a PITA.

Velobuild (Chris) Has promised to send me a new bar and bolts and I hope he comes through fast with that as I have a holidays with it ASAP and don't currently have another bike.


 

[trytogo]

Oh and one other think. I have never used the Mavic quick release system before. Is it meant to come with a HEX adapter that sits on the bike (in the axles)|> Mine didn't and I'm using a separate hex wrench but I can image the designed a speed release system that you have to go into your tool kit to get a wrench out. sh*tshow