VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[mux]

I appreciate your experience, but it's just impossible to believe. 250 watts for average rider is 34-35 kph (21-21.7 mph) and 3-4 mph (4.8 - 6.4 kph) difference which you claim, it's around 100 watt difference in power, it's insane. The vbr268 must be made from noodles.

I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.

[Sakizashi]

I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.

I think the context of @patliean1 's comment is not claiming the aero difference of the bikes, but rather suggesting that he rides faster given the same average wattage on the SL8 due to better comfort (and likely therefore different body position) over broken pavement. I think the 3-4mph claim is probably high, but he also said its a "bro science" observation (i.e., not well measured) and he is a larger rider than me so IDK. For me, I have seen a 3+mph difference between sitting up on the hoods and aerobars, but not quite hoods to aero hoods

[rasch]

Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)

[Serge_K]

Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)

How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.

[rasch]

 

How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.

I'd say it's not about taking a PhD or how hard it is. People are looking for marginal gains.For those who notice and make use of those marginal gains, I'm sure they are or can easily be sponsored.

[RasmusWH]

Is it hex internal on the bolt side with a round on the outside? That's how mine are, but screwing in, the bolt goes past the point of being able to get a hex head, and the screw is protruding out the other side. Designed with zero thought, will have to trash the whole handlebar assembly but with all the other issues on the frame really hesitant to stuff more money and time into this build which is likely a lemon regardless.

Same mechanism for me but I can get enough tension before it protrudes and hit the hex key. Perhaps you can measure the length of the bolt, it might be longer than the ones I got?

[csanz]

I have just received the new seat clamp for the carbon saddle, and now it finally fits perfectly. It took a while (a bit more than 2 months) and several emails, but Chris resolved my problems.

[JerenK]

No big problems. Yet.

Going to buy a bigger expander.

A bit of damage in transit and the paint job wasbt that good.
Chris is going yo handle it he said. Fast reaction!

Gonna update some build pictures in the rest of the coming weeks.

SRAM RIVAL AXS 2by group and elite 55mm wheels.

[Speedyvelo]

How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?

I like them. The following is from the Mavic Site"

"The Speed Release axle technology makes the use of thru axle faster, easier and safer.
In only 4 turns, it is screwed and unscrewed.
When removing the wheel from the frame, it doesn't need to be taken out from the hub. It stays on the wheel and you don't need an extra hand to hold it while manipulating the frame or the wheel. No risk of forgetting it on the parking lot.
It's integrated torque management system makes sure it is always perfectly tighten.
At last, at only 40g front and 45g rear, it is also one of the lightest thru axle on the market, with an integrated lever.
Only compatible with Speed Release compatible frames and forks (Lapierre, Orbea, Cannondale, Wilier, Origine, Enve, Votec, Airstreeem, Caminade, Victoire...)"

[massarob]

Hello everyone, 1st post here but not my first bike, I guess this is my #20ish installed "no brand" bike in 15 years.
All went fine, especially as I decided to go AXS so it's super fast. What required more time is the routing through the (separated) handlebar. With a traditional handlebar, which requires an open window in the headset top cup, this would be easier but less pleasant from an aesthetic POV. I'd do this way next time (or the first time I'll need to change headset bearings).
One problem so far, for me, it's the "carbon" saddle clamp: as others noted it's too small for a 9mm height rail. I just wrote Chris for an updated clamp. For now, I Installed the 7*7mm clamp with a heavy Fizik saddle.
About weight, well...it's not its strength being a little "porky" but it's not too bad either (8.2 Kg as in photo).
I'll try it in the next days, checking seatpost "slippage".
Going back, I'd go with a 177, but now here it is.
Boring matte black, but hey, (less) grams!

[2Burgen]

Does anyone know if it is possible to install a cable computer?

[JerenK]

Hello everyone, 1st post here but not my first bike, I guess this is my #20ish installed "no brand" bike in 15 years.
All went fine, especially as I decided to go AXS so it's super fast. What required more time is the routing through the (separated) handlebar. With a traditional handlebar, which requires an open window in the headset top cup, this would be easier but less pleasant from an aesthetic POV. I'd do this way next time (or the first time I'll need to change headset bearings).
One problem so far, for me, it's the "carbon" saddle clamp: as others noted it's too small for a 9mm height rail. I just wrote Chris for an updated clamp. For now, I Installed the 7*7mm clamp with a heavy Fizik saddle.
About weight, well...it's not its strength being a little "porky" but it's not too bad either (8.2 Kg as in photo).
I'll try it in the next days, checking seatpost "slippage".
Going back, I'd go with a 177, but now here it is.
Boring matte black, but hey, (less) grams!

Really Really NICE!

Cant wait to complete my AXS build i think its going for 8.5kg then…

[SillyMochi]

Does anyone know if it is possible to install a cable computer?

Sorry, a what now? I assume you mean on of these old-style bike computers that had their speed sensors on a cable instead of wireless? If so: Why would you do that?

You're spending about 2-3k USD on a carbon race bike but then wanna slap a cable routed speedometer on it? It's not even much cheaper anyway. A pair of speed and cadence sensors was 9 USD on AliExpress for me. A simple wireless bike computer isn't much more expensive.

So really? WHY?! 

PS: tbf I see no *technical* limitations on this frame in comparison to any other frame that would prevent you from installing it. Still wouldn't do or recommend doing it. But technically, you should be fine.

[massarob]

Saddle clamp update: I checked again so if the rails are exactly or slightly less than 9mm the provided "carbon" optional clamp is ok. The problem come when, and I've some saddles as such, the rails are >9mm (measured again and again they are 10mm or just slightly less). I emailed Chris if it's possible to have 7*10mm clamp(s). So just to clarify that it is not a problem of wrong clamps, just that there are carbon saddles that are >9mm.

[agd12]

I'm in the process of ordering a 268 frame but would appreciate some advice on the headset & stem. At risk of repeating an old question - has anyone successfully used a SL7 stem/spacers/transition kit on this frame? I understand it's possible to use a FSA no.69 headset with any stem of choice, but would prefer an integrated look with the SL7 stem.
   
In the 168-frame thread there's been some discussion about 3D-printed transition pieces for the Allez Sprint. Unless I misunderstand, this round design will not match the 268 frame, and will leave a gap where the original transition piece is? Has anyone gone down this road?

https://www.printables.com/de/model/171982-specialized-headset-cover-round-to-sl7-spacersstem/remixes
https://www.printables.com/de/model/555935-velobuild-vb-r-168-specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-
   
On a similar note, is there a consensus on the quality and durability of the included headset bearings? Would it be advisable to replace them with FSA bearings for peace of mind, regardless of the stem question above?

Thanks!