Author Topic: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame  (Read 647006 times)

JerenK

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #360 on: July 22, 2024, 06:23:23 AM »
Hello everyone, 1st post here but not my first bike, I guess this is my #20ish installed "no brand" bike in 15 years.
All went fine, especially as I decided to go AXS so it's super fast. What required more time is the routing through the (separated) handlebar. With a traditional handlebar, which requires an open window in the headset top cup, this would be easier but less pleasant from an aesthetic POV. I'd do this way next time (or the first time I'll need to change headset bearings).
One problem so far, for me, it's the "carbon" saddle clamp: as others noted it's too small for a 9mm height rail. I just wrote Chris for an updated clamp. For now, I Installed the 7*7mm clamp with a heavy Fizik saddle.
About weight, well...it's not its strength being a little "porky" but it's not too bad either (8.2 Kg as in photo).
I'll try it in the next days, checking seatpost "slippage".
Going back, I'd go with a 177, but now here it is.
Boring matte black, but hey, (less) grams!


Really Really NICE!

Cant wait to complete my AXS build i think its going for 8.5kg then…

SillyMochi

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #361 on: July 22, 2024, 07:02:41 AM »
Does anyone know if it is possible to install a cable computer?

Sorry, a what now? I assume you mean on of these old-style bike computers that had their speed sensors on a cable instead of wireless? If so: Why would you do that?

You're spending about 2-3k USD on a carbon race bike but then wanna slap a cable routed speedometer on it? It's not even much cheaper anyway. A pair of speed and cadence sensors was 9 USD on AliExpress for me. A simple wireless bike computer isn't much more expensive.

So really? WHY?!  :D ???

PS: tbf I see no *technical* limitations on this frame in comparison to any other frame that would prevent you from installing it. Still wouldn't do or recommend doing it. But technically, you should be fine.
Slow on the climb. And everywhere else.

massarob

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #362 on: July 22, 2024, 11:18:54 AM »
Saddle clamp update: I checked again so if the rails are exactly or slightly less than 9mm the provided "carbon" optional clamp is ok. The problem come when, and I've some saddles as such, the rails are >9mm (measured again and again they are 10mm or just slightly less). I emailed Chris if it's possible to have 7*10mm clamp(s). So just to clarify that it is not a problem of wrong clamps, just that there are carbon saddles that are >9mm.

agd12

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #363 on: July 23, 2024, 12:54:06 PM »
I'm in the process of ordering a 268 frame but would appreciate some advice on the headset & stem. At risk of repeating an old question - has anyone successfully used a SL7 stem/spacers/transition kit on this frame? I understand it's possible to use a FSA no.69 headset with any stem of choice, but would prefer an integrated look with the SL7 stem.
   
In the 168-frame thread there's been some discussion about 3D-printed transition pieces for the Allez Sprint. Unless I misunderstand, this round design will not match the 268 frame, and will leave a gap where the original transition piece is? Has anyone gone down this road?

https://www.printables.com/de/model/171982-specialized-headset-cover-round-to-sl7-spacersstem/remixes
https://www.printables.com/de/model/555935-velobuild-vb-r-168-specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-
   
On a similar note, is there a consensus on the quality and durability of the included headset bearings? Would it be advisable to replace them with FSA bearings for peace of mind, regardless of the stem question above?

Thanks!

JerenK

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #364 on: July 25, 2024, 04:05:57 AM »
I'm in the process of ordering a 268 frame but would appreciate some advice on the headset & stem. At risk of repeating an old question - has anyone successfully used a SL7 stem/spacers/transition kit on this frame? I understand it's possible to use a FSA no.69 headset with any stem of choice, but would prefer an integrated look with the SL7 stem.
   
In the 168-frame thread there's been some discussion about 3D-printed transition pieces for the Allez Sprint. Unless I misunderstand, this round design will not match the 268 frame, and will leave a gap where the original transition piece is? Has anyone gone down this road?

https://www.printables.com/de/model/171982-specialized-headset-cover-round-to-sl7-spacersstem/remixes
https://www.printables.com/de/model/555935-velobuild-vb-r-168-specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-
   
On a similar note, is there a consensus on the quality and durability of the included headset bearings? Would it be advisable to replace them with FSA bearings for peace of mind, regardless of the stem question above?

Thanks!

I am building my bike and the is a little bit of space between headset bearing/ compression ring and what insaw on a youtube video from patty that he uses somekind of other spacers.

Maybe original spacers for an sl7.

The spacers that i got from velobuild look cool and where painted in same color as my frame.
But seems to doesnt really fit well.

I am going to overthink this and maybe replace these item for original Specialized ones. As alse it is recommended to buy a bigger expander for the steering.

The velobuild is to short and not that good.

I send Patty a meesage on youtube but insee him sometimes react on this page aswell.

Maybe this is also a part of an answer on youre quistion.

patliean1

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #365 on: July 25, 2024, 12:17:53 PM »
I am building my bike and the is a little bit of space between headset bearing/ compression ring and what insaw on a youtube video from patty that he uses somekind of other spacers.

Maybe original spacers for an sl7.

The spacers that i got from velobuild look cool and where painted in same color as my frame.
But seems to doesnt really fit well.

I am going to overthink this and maybe replace these item for original Specialized ones. As alse it is recommended to buy a bigger expander for the steering.

The velobuild is to short and not that good.

I send Patty a meesage on youtube but insee him sometimes react on this page aswell.

Maybe this is also a part of an answer on youre quistion.

Trying to catch up on all my messages. As good practice with budget frames, I always use expander plugs from the brand called "Neco" which can be found on Amazon for like $13-$20. Length large, aluminium or carbon top cap. Not the lightest plug ever but no slippage. Especially if you plan to run spacers above the stem

JerenK

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #366 on: July 25, 2024, 03:33:06 PM »
Trying to catch up on all my messages. As good practice with budget frames, I always use expander plugs from the brand called "Neco" which can be found on Amazon for like $13-$20. Length large, aluminium or carbon top cap. Not the lightest plug ever but no slippage. Especially if you plan to run spacers above the stem

And what about the spacers you used? Original SL7 ones?

I see they are different on youre bike then come with Velobuild.

Speedyvelo

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #367 on: July 29, 2024, 08:40:26 PM »
VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables

I love everything about this frame, high quality, excellent riding and love the small details:
- Integrated handlebar with cables hiding
- Mavic Safe Release
- Very well made aero seat-post with zero offset. It comes also with two clamps for a 7 and 9 mm (carbon) seat rails. I use a Selle Italia SLR boost carbon seat
- I choose glossy finish (carbon) and glossy black VB decal which i really like. They have done a very nice "paint" job.
- The build bicycle is pretty light: weights 17.85 lb with the Garmin 830, the AeroPod and the
bracket for the radar, Look pedals. water bottle cages Lezine carbon pump.

I will attach few pics.

A couple of suggestions:

1. With rim brakes the quick releases were part of the wheel, with disk brakes the thru-axle is part of the frame. The Mavic Safe Release is great but.. stays with the wheel which is good but if you want to use the thru-axle for something else like use a chain keeper to clean the chain without the wheel is not easy. So here is the tip: order a pair of Mavic Safe Release when you order the frame, yes it will cost you few more $ but it is worth it.

2. If you do your own maintenance you may or may not have the correct bike repair stand. The best way to clamp the bike is from the seat-post front and back, my previous rack was excellent for round seat-post but was not good for this aero seat-post so I invest few $ in a new stand.

A major asset of a company is how they interact with the customers, here VB is unique, Chris is gold is like having a friend inside of the company and major plus to order from VB.

canadabike93

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #368 on: July 30, 2024, 06:56:38 PM »
What is everyone using for their Varia mount on this frame. The Garmin mount is too small for the seat tube.

Speedyvelo

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #369 on: July 31, 2024, 09:37:36 PM »
That's amazing, love the fact you put a sram red group on a VB frame :)
Are the campagnolo wheels legit or copies?
you'll have to tell us how the bike rides compared to other bikes you've ridden. I suspect that if you're rocking sram red & Bora wheels, you know a thing or 2 about bikes.

Serge, yes the Campagnolo WTO are legits, imho are the best wheels in the market with the exception of the BoraWTO Ultra. Of course they are hooked rims. Despite of 45mm + 28 tire you barely feel the side winds.
I did many changes with this frame: 1. I choose a small frame (and a seat post with zero offset)  so it will allow me to be more aero, you will see some extra spacers but I can have my forearms flat (horizontal) when my hands are on hoods and my upper arms are 90 degrees with the forearms. 2. Also the present trends is for shorter cranks, so I have 160 mm which has many benefits.
How the VB rides? I love the ride, it climbs very well in part because is light, sprinting with hands on the drops it follow you, but the most important is descending where you can take hairpin corners at good speed, push down the handlebars and bikes respond as the best one, so you can shorten the radius or curvature in the middle of the corner. In summa love the frame, VB had done a superb job.
« Last Edit: July 31, 2024, 09:43:16 PM by Speedyvelo »

Speedyvelo

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #370 on: August 02, 2024, 06:51:02 PM »
Sweet. What are you comparing it to, what were you riding before?

GURU a custom carbon frame made in Canada. I have other bikes but this was my fav until now.

I did not know that there were Campagnolo Bora copies, but that explains all the documentation that came with the wheels to be sure that the wheels were authentic, weird!. BTW the wheels are just great.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2024, 06:56:48 PM by Speedyvelo »

Speedyvelo

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #371 on: August 02, 2024, 07:00:30 PM »
What is everyone using for their Varia mount on this frame. The Garmin mount is too small for the seat tube.

Look at the pic of the previous message, the Varia Radar vount works great on the seatpost but you have to use the one with the rubber straps, you can not use the rigid mount.

jac2689

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #372 on: August 05, 2024, 09:11:00 AM »
What is the common wisdom/approach as to grease/anti-seize/other for installing the press fit BB86 on this frame?

Can't seem to find any definitive answer...

SillyMochi

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #373 on: August 05, 2024, 09:16:40 AM »
What is the common wisdom/approach as to grease/anti-seize/other for installing the press fit BB86 on this frame?

Can't seem to find any definitive answer...

You grease it up, you press it in?
Not sure what answer exactly you're looking for?  :D
Slow on the climb. And everywhere else.

jac2689

Re: VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame
« Reply #374 on: August 05, 2024, 10:06:09 AM »
Are we still talking about bikes?

More to whether it was grease (I have PPL-1), some kind of anti-seize compound or some other type of viscous liquid?
Or just push it in dry...