Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[laneweaver]

Well after about a week of not doing much, waiting for a brake line order to come in, and waiting out a heatwave, I finally started sanding down the lip in the seat tube. I was anticipating doing this for hours so I decided to wait until after 100+ degree weather here to pass.

Much to my surprise, the lip took all of 10 minutes to sand down enough to fit the Di2 battery through. I believe SPCycle really did listen to prior feedback about internal batteries and addressed it for the most part.

My solution was taping a file I picked up in a set from Harbor Freight to a paint stirrer I got for free from Home Depot. Worked out nicely.

I just worked out the internal cabling for the Di2 wires and the rear brake. Next up is the cabling through the handlebar and then finally the front brake routing. Then it's time to grease everything up and torque everything down. I'm excited to finally finish this build!!

[jonathanf2]

Quick question, has anyone using Di2 considered just dropping the battery into the seat tube with some bubble wrap and string? That's basically the only way LTwoo ER9/X owners can use this frame.

[laneweaver]

I imagine the Di2 battery is too thicc to wrap with bubble wrap and shove down the seat tube. I think you would need some thin foam for it to fit in the depths of the seat tube, but I'm not sure I would want to wrap the battery with foam anyway for fear of it absorbing water and keeping moisture adjacent to the battery.

But why not just use the Di2 holder? It's probably the best solution, although the one that's provided leaves a lot to be desired as it just doesn't hold on to the battery when it's installed to the seat post. I've taped the battery to the holder and it goes in/out without much drama, and allows full seat post depth up to the lip.

I suppose you could try the cushion + string method if you cut the seat post and didn't have the equipment to re-drill the Di2 holder holes.

[s3si1u]

Quick question, has anyone using Di2 considered just dropping the battery into the seat tube with some bubble wrap and string? That's basically the only way LTwoo ER9/X owners can use this frame.

I kinda did this on my gf's Felt when we upgraded it to ER9. Cut a strip of packing foam, wrapped it around the battery enough to form a tight fit, and stuck it in the seatpost. I didn't even push it all the way in. No issues to report (yet).

[Bonus79]

It was cheaper awhile back. The rumor is that SPCycle and Seraph/TanTan are somehow connected. Someone on here did contacted SPCycle and they accused Seraph/TanTan of copying the R088, denying any connection. My buddy in China thinks neither company makes their own frames and are just vendor fronts. He thinks a bigger OEM factory handles orders for both companies. Mainly because molds (per frame size) are outrageously expensive and both these brands would have to fulfill large orders to break even. Neither brand has barely if any name recognition within China. Their main business model is for exports. So it's all speculation. 

Sorry, but I have trouble translating the passage in bold: I didn't understand if the two brands (Seraph/TanTan and Spcycle) are or are not known in China.
Thanks

[Bonus79]

Well after about a week of not doing much, waiting for a brake line order to come in, and waiting out a heatwave, I finally started sanding down the lip in the seat tube. I was anticipating doing this for hours so I decided to wait until after 100+ degree weather here to pass.

Much to my surprise, the lip took all of 10 minutes to sand down enough to fit the Di2 battery through. I believe SPCycle really did listen to prior feedback about internal batteries and addressed it for the most part.

My solution was taping a file I picked up in a set from Harbor Freight to a paint stirrer I got for free from Home Depot. Worked out nicely.

I just worked out the internal cabling for the Di2 wires and the rear brake. Next up is the cabling through the handlebar and then finally the front brake routing. Then it's time to grease everything up and torque everything down. I'm excited to finally finish this build!!

Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
While waiting to receive the painted frame, I was watching/studying some tutorials, and I see that not everyone uses the same type of grease....some use pink grease, some use green grease, some use white lithium grease.
I don't know the difference between the various types....which one do you suggest I use?
Thanks

[jonathanf2]

Sorry, but I have trouble translating the passage in bold: I didn't understand if the two brands (Seraph/TanTan and Spcycle) are or are not known in China.
Thanks

Not very well known. They sell domestically, but it's not like you can walk into a store and buy their frames. People who are into the sport either buy established brands or the domestic brands with proper customer support.

[jonathanf2]

Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
While waiting to receive the painted frame, I was watching/studying some tutorials, and I see that not everyone uses the same type of grease....some use pink grease, some use green grease, some use white lithium grease.
I don't know the difference between the various types....which one do you suggest I use?
Thanks

Mainly Shimano premium yellow grease. Though I use different grease for bottom brackets and non-copper based grease for contact areas with carbon for the headset.

[Chamomile]

which one do you suggest I use?

Any marine grease, calcium-based. Lithium can mess with rubber (rings, gaskets) and there're some horror stories about lithium-greased aluminum + water.

[laneweaver]

Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
While waiting to receive the painted frame, I was watching/studying some tutorials, and I see that not everyone uses the same type of grease....some use pink grease, some use green grease, some use white lithium grease.
I don't know the difference between the various types....which one do you suggest I use?
Thanks

I usually use Lucas Red N' Tacky (red bearing grease) for my bikes but for this build I picked up a tub of Motorex 2000 which is apparently similar if not identical to the Shimano stuff.

I'm also going to use a nickel-based anti-seize for the bottom bracket, carbon grip paste for the seat post and steerer tube plug, and some blue threadlocker for the small accessory bolts.

[simo8891]

Finally got around to finishing building my R088 yesterday pm. Took it out for a shakedown ride with a mate that's just getting back on the bike after a 6 week lay off due to a crash. Nice and steady 60km with 1 notable climb.

Initial impressions are wow, for the money I really cannot fault the frame or it's ride feel. Stiff enough for me (~83kg) to get out the saddle and put some effort in and feel no noticeable flex. I do not have any disc rub which my carbon crux is prone to doing when out the saddle on a steep climb. This is my first dedicated disc brake road bike and truth be told, if I was blindfolded I don't think I'd tell the difference between it and my rim brake TCR Adv Pro 1, but this could be cos I'm just an average club riding cyclist, and therefore not going fast enough perhaps.

So overall v pleased.

[SkylarRnD]

Finally got around to finishing building my R088 yesterday pm. Took it out for a shakedown ride with a mate that's just getting back on the bike after a 6 week lay off due to a crash. Nice and steady 60km with 1 notable climb.

Initial impressions are wow, for the money I really cannot fault the frame or it's ride feel. Stiff enough for me (~83kg) to get out the saddle and put some effort in and feel no noticeable flex. I do not have any disc rub which my carbon crux is prone to doing when out the saddle on a steep climb. This is my first dedicated disc brake road bike and truth be told, if I was blindfolded I don't think I'd tell the difference between it and my rim brake TCR Adv Pro 1, but this could be cos I'm just an average club riding cyclist, and therefore not going fast enough perhaps.

So overall v pleased.

Very cool! I'm curious how tall you are and which size you bought?

[simo8891]

Very cool! I'm curious how tall you are and which size you bought?

I'm 6ft and got a size 56cm with a 120mm stem.
The fit works for me very well I think. Will know for sure tomorrow as I'm going on a faster 100km ride so will have more time in the saddle to gauge how it feels/rides.

[SkylarRnD]

I'm 6ft and got a size 56cm with a 120mm stem.
The fit works for me very well I think. Will know for sure tomorrow as I'm going on a faster 100km ride so will have more time in the saddle to gauge how it feels/rides.

I'm 6'2" with 91.4cm inseam so I'm curious if that size frame would feel a bit cramped OR dead spot on. I've heard nothing but good things about the ride quality for these SL8 geo frames so my interest is piqued.

[jonathanf2]

Finally got around to finishing building my R088 yesterday pm. Took it out for a shakedown ride with a mate that's just getting back on the bike after a 6 week lay off due to a crash. Nice and steady 60km with 1 notable climb.

Initial impressions are wow, for the money I really cannot fault the frame or it's ride feel. Stiff enough for me (~83kg) to get out the saddle and put some effort in and feel no noticeable flex. I do not have any disc rub which my carbon crux is prone to doing when out the saddle on a steep climb. This is my first dedicated disc brake road bike and truth be told, if I was blindfolded I don't think I'd tell the difference between it and my rim brake TCR Adv Pro 1, but this could be cos I'm just an average club riding cyclist, and therefore not going fast enough perhaps.

So overall v pleased.

Love it! Seriously I've never seen so many frames with the same UV glossy raw + lightweight UNO stem combination! The bike oligarchy might try to ban this frame for being too cyclist friendly and practical!