Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[xenograft]

Wow, what a detailed comparison! Where can I find this tool?

Regards

I made it for my personal use, but glad you found the comparison helpful! Happy to share here: https://bikefitr-3af15.web.app

[xenograft]

Add 18mm to the stack of the 18d for the bars and mandatory spacer - then add 20mm of stack for the spacers. With a head angle of 72.5 it brings the bars towards the rider.

There is a separate field for the handlebar rise. The assumption is that both fits will have a 10mm headset cap so that is already account for in the calculations. I have also inputted 20mm of spacers for both fits.

Both frames also have nearly identical headtube angles (72.5 vs 72.6). But you also input the headtube angle into the tool for the handlebar x and y calculations.

You can play around with it here: https://bikefitr-3af15.web.app

Of course different components and spacers will change up the calculations, but you should be able to account for nearly all of it.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I use a different calculator. Two actually, but they’re are already plenty out there.

[xenograft]

I use a different calculator. Two actually, but they’re are already plenty out there.

Its a good call to validate using parallel methods. If you share, I'd be happy to try them as well if they are free. Of course comparing frame geo is the starting point, I'm just trying to help him dial in the components. The assumption is just that he also has a 10mm bearing cap on his current bike.


 I am simply trying to validate his belief that the contact points will be similar between his current fit and a size 58 LC, provided he goes with the 100m front stem, handlebar angle on his current fit being the same as the HBR17. It is just nice to have a calculator that can account for frame and component geometry, that is also free 

I'd ignore the LC height recommendation if he has a current fit as the starting point.

[pschei]

Think this should work https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006842456107.html

I measured my compartment and it's about 65mm deep, so this might work.

[jstrawks]

I measured my compartment and it's about 65mm deep, so this might work.

My Cycplus is about 50mm deep.

[yanouf]

My Cycplus is about 50mm deep.

The AS2 ultra Cycplus pump can be stored into the storage compartment.

[weldi181]

Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher power (>300W approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?

Thanks guys :-)

Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?

[Bender87]

Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?

I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.

I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.

[Mndrvld]

Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?

Are you sure it isn't your seatpost causing the noise?

Your story sounds very familiar to my own situation right after building my bike. Small chainring (relatively little power) no noise, and large chainring (more power) noises. I could also swear the sound was coming from the bottom bracket, but it turned out to be the seatpost making the noise.

Perhaps a simple question to rule out whether it is the seatpost: Do you also hear the sound when you apply force to your pedals while standing upright? Or only when you are sitting on the saddle?

[neXt]

After a bit more than 3 months, I received my new LCR018-D today.

Order Process

26.01.26 - Order placed, size 50 with 380x100 handlebar (estimated shipping mid-March)
04.03.26 - Asked for an update → Frame still waiting for painting
19.03.26 - Asked again for an update → Was told there would be a 25-day delay because of my "special" paint job, which can only be done by one team
14.04.26 - Asked again for an update → Received pictures of the finished frame
15.04.26 - Frame was shipped
22.04.26 - Received my DPD tracking number (after asking again)
04.05.26 - Delivered to me (Germany)

• Time until shipping increased from 2 to almost 3 months
• I always had to ask for updates, although I requested to be informed and to receive QC pictures and the tracking number when available
• Response time from Jim over WhatsApp was always within 12 hours

All in all, the process was an okay experience—not good, not bad. There is definitely room for improvement, especially since the communicated lead times seem unrealistic.

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging was amazing—I've never received a bike so well protected!
Delivery took about 2.5 weeks, which is within the estimated range for shipping to Germany. However, it was a surprise, as my DPD tracking still shows the package in transit. It seems it got a new tracking number once it arrived in Europe (although even the new tracking number doesn't show that it was delivered today)
I'm not sure if LC could have done anything about this (not sure if they were informed about the new tracking number), but I think it's worth mentioning.

Frame Impression

The frame feels and looks excellent. The visible carbon surfaces inside seem very smooth.
The storage lid feels premium and not as bad as you might expect from reading this thread (however, I cannot confirm or deny how it behaves on the road yet). The lever has a satisfying click when you close it completely (maybe some people didn’t fully close it?).

Paintjob

I decided to go for deep ocean blue with glittering gold decals. This combination had the potential to look amazing, but if done wrong or if the colors were off, it could also look bad.
I was positively surprised when I first saw the frame. The combination looks perfect—the glittering gold is slightly on the yellow side with very fine glitter (see my attached pictures). You can only see the glitter when looking closely; it's not "too much" in my opinion (feared it could be). Very happy with my decision.
The quality of the paint job looks very good as well. There is some minor overspray at the fork caliper mounts, but nothing to worry about.

What's coming next

Today I coated the frame and fork with ceramic coating (Dynamic Secret Surface) and will build it the next day (main specs: Shimano 105 Di2, Elitewheels Edge 3.0, Continental GP5000 STR 32mm, Magene P515 power meter).
As this is my first road bike (after MTB and gravel), I'm really excited to test it as soon as possible

[Bender87]

I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.

I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.

So for now I'm waiting to get some other crank with D24mm in carbon and maybe a power meter to replace the Think Rider alu one.

But you can see on the D29mm spindle that there was a lot of play on the ball bering, otherwise the wear pattern would look like this. At least i think that the ball bearing was the culprit.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

I’ll probably order their 2026 aero bike and get this colour combination, but silver into raw carbon.

Looks really good

Pics are finally available. It’s also on the Nero show this week.

https://de.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/downloads/2026-2027%20LightCarbon%20Frame+Component%20Catalog%20-V1.pdf

I’ve started a dedicated thread to keep this one 18-D focused

[kjerts]

With gp5000 STR in 35mm, I got 6mm clearance on left side and only 4mm on driveside. It's the same with two different XMCS wheelsets. Is it within acceptable margins?

[POTOOOOOOOO]

With gp5000 STR in 35mm, I got 6mm clearance on left side and only 4mm on driveside. It's the same with two different XMCS wheelsets. Is it within acceptable margins?

4mm is absolutely fine.
It’s actually the industry minimum, so you don’t need to worry about anything.