New Avenger R8-RS

[Bonus79]

So here is the finish build.  For people wondering, the absolute vertical stack from base of stem to top of handlebar of 120mm Y stem is around 5.5cm
(Compared to 2 cm vertical stack for  -9 angle 125mm stem).
Also, the head tube notch is 2.5 cm and i think it is same for all frame size since it is same than the stem clamp area height.
Finally, here is a photo.
Final build 7.3 kg without pedals and bottle cage. Size 56.
Yoeleo 50/60 nxt wheels, wheeltop carbon crankset, wheeltop eds tx.

So basically, if the head tube notch is 2.5 cm, the gain in handlebar height compared to a traditional stem on a frame without a head tube notch is 10mm....is that right?

[Mariuszuzd]

On my bike, I calculated all numbers from the ground, it's ~60 mm of extra stack in the 120 mm Y bar. From the ground to the top of the cap is 895 mm, to the top of the handlebar is ~955 mm. The saddle is ~105.2 mm, shifters ~975-980, the same height as Shuttle SL, with 40 mm of spacers and 120 mm handlebar (Avian Canary II). Stack on the charts is for sure badly calculated and presented by Avenger. They marked it as a bottom of a frame, in reality it's rather the top or the top-middle part, where you have spacers, as someone already marked on previous posts.

[massarob]

I cannot open it, so I don't know. The mount is rather one of a kind, the angle is strange, the holes are angled. I tried to use one I have for the shuttle, and it's different. The mount fits, but the garmin is really angled. Could you please provide a screen. Moreover, someone above put a photo of how it looks.

This is how this specific model looks. By the way I ordered the frame (6 week waiting time) and in the mean time a T47/68 BB, 2 spare headset bearings and an extra "Garmin" mount, which is either flat for regular inegrated handlebars (which I have on other bikes) or with a small wedge/adapter for Cervelo S5 handlebar < 2025 (angled holes which look very similar to this Avenger).
My "project" is to install full Ultegra on this frame (stripping from another frame which will install Force AXS 1x), new ICAN 40 II and/or Serenade 4550 wave wheels. Being a size S/52 my target would be to finish it around 7/7.2Kg all included  .

[CoffeeNbikes]

So basically, if the head tube notch is 2.5 cm, the gain in handlebar height compared to a traditional stem on a frame without a head tube notch is 10mm....is that right?

I am not sure exactly what you mean. I think first, it is easier to just substract 2.5 cm to the geometry chart advertised stack. Stem/handlebar vertical stack is an independant matter regardless of the frame geometry.
So to keep things simple, I separate the frame geometry from the cockpit setup.

A standard stem has a 40 mm clamp height, but with a 125 mm / -9° setup, the downward angle drops the effective rise (measured from the top of the handlebar where your hands rest) so it acts more like a 20 mm stack above the spacers.

The Avenger Y-bar has a lower 25 mm clamp height, but its positive rise pushes the total height up to 55 mm (top of handlebar, where your hands rest).

My Winspace T1550 gen 2(size large) had a 560 mm stack +40 mm spacers + 125 mm stem at -9 (20 mm vertical rise) =620 mm at top of handlebar. Same fit would be Avenger size 56 ( 565 mm stack according to the chart, but in reality it is 540 mm due to the notch) + 25 mm spacers + 120 mm stem(55 mm vertical rise)=620 mm at top of handlebar. Both gives me the same effective stack at top of handlebars. I ignore headtube angle because difference are marginal and it simplifies explanation.

[Mariuszuzd]

Okay, so that is not the final review, but let say the first impressions from 500 km. On the first race after 4 rides I was fifth, and third in my cat. M3, on Gran Fondo Warsaw. In general the bike is really fast, stiff, accelerate amazingly. I have 50 mm wheels Tagoola Pulse 50 UL on it. In my opinion around 1-2 km/h average faster than shuttle. Maybe due to the position, and 380 handlebar, maybe the conditions are different. I'm planning to compare those two, but after my vacation. Now I have 52t on the front, 10-33t on the back, on flats it's like a rocket! The total weight is on the edge of 7 kgs. On 5th of September I will have a mountain race Tatra Road Race, so the plan is to test the new machine. It's rather very demanding so I would be happy if I hit the top 100. Then I will have some full overview of the bike. For now it's 10/10, except the issue with the geometry, for me it's not correct.

[crazyravr]

I am really looking into this frameset but I am stuck on the geomtry.
at 188cm tall I ride a 54s Colnago with 110mm stem and 380mm bar using 2cm of spacers under the bar.
Seat is set at 81cm from bb and the top of the bar at shifters is 93cm from the floor

Here is comparing the two......
at 58cm this one is 10mm longer reach and 10mm taller stack
at 56cm this one is same reach but is 13mm lower stack

I am leaning towards the 56cm frame because of the riser bar..... thoughts?

[smichal]

I am really looking into this frameset but I am stuck on the geomtry.
at 188cm tall I ride a 54s Colnago with 110mm stem and 380mm bar using 2cm of spacers under the bar.
Seat is set at 81cm from bb and the top of the bar at shifters is 93cm from the floor

Here is comparing the two......
at 58cm this one is 10mm longer reach and 10mm taller stack
at 56cm this one is same reach but is 13mm lower stack

I am leaning towards the 56cm frame because of the riser bar..... thoughts?

I am 187 cm and ended up ordering size 56. I spent a few days running calculations through Gemini and Claude based on my current bike. I should be able to replicate almost the exact same fit on the size 56 with the 90 mm riser bar/stem.

However, I also ordered the 100 mm stem to start with a slightly longer reach—my current bike has endurance geometry, so I can comfortably handle a bit more stretch. Since I'm 41, having that second 90 mm stem gives me a solid fallback option for the future if I ever need a more relaxed setup.

[crazyravr]

I am 187 cm and ended up ordering size 56. I spent a few days running calculations through Gemini and Claude based on my current bike. I should be able to replicate almost the exact same fit on the size 56 with the 90 mm riser bar/stem.

However, I also ordered the 100 mm stem to start with a slightly longer reach—my current bike has endurance geometry, so I can comfortably handle a bit more stretch. Since I'm 41, having that second 90 mm stem gives me a solid fallback option for the future if I ever need a more relaxed setup.

Whats the other bike? I want to plug in the numbers into calculator to see how that will compare to what I am currently riding. Having said that, I spoke with guys at Avenger and they recommend 58cm frame for because of the stack numbers. I asked to let me know what would be height be from the floor to the top of the bar (shifter hoods) without any spacers. That will for sure help me select the size.

[CoffeeNbikes]

Just for input, the black and gold bike on a previous comment in this thread is mine. I am 185 cm, long legs. 80.5 saddle height. I have frame 56 , 2.5 cm spacers, 120 mm stem. In my opinion 90 mm would be very low and very short for my height

[smichal]

Whats the other bike? I want to plug in the numbers into calculator to see how that will compare to what I am currently riding. Having said that, I spoke with guys at Avenger and they recommend 58cm frame for because of the stack numbers. I asked to let me know what would be height be from the floor to the top of the bar (shifter hoods) without any spacers. That will for sure help me select the size.

It's Triban Rc520 size L with the most aggressive setup possible )

[imhockey]

Okay, so my build is finished. Just quick update from my perspective. I build the bike myself, like the others and previous Avenger Shuttle SL. I'm having Tagoola Pulse 50UL and 1x12 SRAM AXS with Force shifters and the rest is RED. As I will probably use XMCS crank, I bought the tripeak 3 in 1 BB. In general, i had no issues with cables, or with BB or screws, or honestly with any element of the frameset. Assembling was pretty easy and fast, I did all based on the R8-RS user manual. Only one elements is missing in the user manual, the screws and elements that holds the upper bearing or I haven't seen it. The routing with the Y bar was a pleasure and there is only one way of going thru. Those two pieces are very easy to connect. Top cap is pretty funny and with unusual shape. I'm wondering if 4 Nm and enough for handlebar and fixing screws. I will check and verify that on the ride today. I didn't encountered any issue with the headset play. I used 4 Nm for the top cap as adviced. No information what should be the tightening power for the handlebar and stem. Seatpost and clamp the same, no issue, Nm as in the manual. I didn't cut the seatpost. For the axles a used 10 Nm at the moment. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 of them, not looks very bad, of course without any of them is the best. However, as I mentioned previously, after calculation I have the same level as on my shuttle. For me the comfort is the most important, I will survive how it looks.

I will prepare some reel and post on my instagram of course.

For now the weight is less than 7 kg in size 58, with pedals, bottle cages, garmin and varia mount.

I am at such a loss putting the fork and bars together. i have no instructions and can't seem to find the manual online. any chance you (or anyone) can tell me where it is. ps-pretty sure they forgot the bolts to clamp the bars to the stem...but that is just one of my problems.

[imhockey]

just saw your post with the cockpit drawing(where did you get it??)..im a dummy. though, i am def. missing some bolts:

[Pehem]

I'm after 5 rides, and that includes one race. I have no issues with the headset, I did all based on the manual, so as follows, expander 10 Nm, screws and cap bolt 4 Nm. Usually it's around 5 Nm, sometimes it's 6 Nm. I have never seen more than 6 Nm for the carbon handlebar. I checked the values on my two torque wrenches. I attached the screen and my photo of the bike. I used 4 cm of spacers so 8 spacers. Are you sure that you assembled the spacers correctly, and the handlebar is properly connected/inserted. There are some holes and pins. The metal spacer/washer should go on the cable port grommet, it's not in the manual. Lastly, maybe the fork was not cut properly ? There is no space of too much space? Could you provide some photo of the bike and the space between the fork/spacers ?

Pretty sure the space is enough. I have 5 mm as shown in the first picture meaning 1 mm of space left when removing thickness of the expander (1 mm) and top plate (3 mm). I can put a small item <1 mm inbetween when it's mounted. Another sign there is enough space, I bent the top plate due to overtorquing, so the limit is not the screw, not the expander but the top plate is warping. What I do not understand is that I do not get the bearings to bind when torquing to the max. The pressure against the inner race of the bearing should make it bind at some point but it doesn't meaning that I have no preload. This is drving me nuts. To be sure it's not the fork length, I added a 3 mm carbon spacer (equal to cutting the fork 3 mm) and it is the same. As shown in the last 2 pictures I have 4 mm of space left (8 mm-1mm expander-3mm top plate). Then I also tried to change the metal spacers position, first I had one in position 1 and one in position 2. I put both in position 2, thinking maybe the lower spacer was rubbing against the frame (even though the direction was completely free and without noise) but it didn't change anything.

[Mariuszuzd]

Just for others, the short manual how to assemble the handlebar. The manual is also attached to my previous post, but I added it here one more time. Regarding the geometry, the most important is that is not correct! You should reduce 3 cm from the stack, it's lower! I can show you the numbers later. That is why I have 8 spacers so 4 cm instead of 2 spacers as I assumed! Some quick update before some final review. Bike is really great, I was on the race in the mountains, Tatra Road Race, ~82 km, 2300 up, no issues. Conditions so the weather was really terrible, so wind and rain, and I felt very confident on it.

[massarob]

Question now that my frame is travelling and it should arrive in a matter of weeks (I guess): how is the brake hoses routed? I see the headset space is ony in the front then i guess the channel is in the frontal part of the Y stem, but then how's the passage from the stem to the handlebar? Was it difficult to route the hoses? Thanks!