New Avenger R8-RS

[Mariuszuzd]

It was one of the quickest cable routing in the history, honestly. It's quite easy, as the stem and the bar are two elements. You can firstly go through the first element, and then through the handlebar. The channel from the rear brake is also a standard one, the frameset are very well made, no sharp edges, all is great so I can say that without a watch it took me around 90 minutes to assembly the whole bike. I was rather not in a rush Have a look on the manual I had attached, it's really helpful.

[giorgiobuccio]

I have just finished building the bike, but unfortunately I think I will sell it immediately.

The problem is toe overlap: the front wheel touches my shoe when I turn the handlebar a lot at low speed.

For reference, I am 186 cm tall, the frame is size 56, I use EU size 46 shoes and 172.5 mm cranks.

I already have some toe overlap on my Voicevelo Echo, and it is already annoying there, but on this bike it is even worse. The front wheel is simply too close to the pedals / shoes

This is a problem in real-life situations: starting from a junction, turning slowly, riding near pedestrians, crossing narrow bridges, or making a tight U-turn. I do not want to ride a bike while always worrying that the front wheel may touch my shoe.

In a race, this probably would not happen, because corners are taken at higher speed and you do not turn the handlebar so much. But even so, this problem reduces my confidence in the bike.

I hope frame manufacturers will consider this problem more carefully. Many modern aero/race bikes are becoming shorter and shorter at the front. This may make the bike feel more reactive, but for riders with bigger shoes, normal crank length and wider tyres, toe overlap can become a real problem.

Unfortunately, this frame is not suitable for me  :'(.

I have learned the lesson: from now on, I will not buy any road bike with a front-center below 600 mm.

For reference, my Voicevelo Echo has a front-center of 598 mm, and toe overlap is already annoying.
The Avenger R8-RS size 56 has a front-center of 591.6 mm, so the problem is clearly worse.

I also noticed that some modern aero/race frames go even below 590 mm in front-center. In my opinion, this is a real problem for many riders.

Even changing from 172.5 mm cranks to 170 mm cranks would only give about 2.5 mm more clearance, so with these very short front-center geometries the problem would still remain.

I think frame manufacturers should consider this more carefully. A bike can be reactive, but it also has to be safe and easy to handle in real-life low-speed situations

[glitch]

At your height you should be on a 58 frame.

[crazyravr]

At your height you should be on a 58 frame.

False.

[glitch]

False.

About as much false as my statement. Sure sizing is more than just how tall a person is, but I know what I would get and for someone significantly taller who experiences toe overlap, based on the limited info available, a size 56 seems small, in particular if you try to have a "modern" fit

[Bonus79]

I have just finished building the bike, but unfortunately I think I will sell it immediately.

The problem is toe overlap: the front wheel touches my shoe when I turn the handlebar a lot at low speed.

For reference, I am 186 cm tall, the frame is size 56, I use EU size 46 shoes and 172.5 mm cranks.

I already have some toe overlap on my Voicevelo Echo, and it is already annoying there, but on this bike it is even worse. The front wheel is simply too close to the pedals / shoes

This is a problem in real-life situations: starting from a junction, turning slowly, riding near pedestrians, crossing narrow bridges, or making a tight U-turn. I do not want to ride a bike while always worrying that the front wheel may touch my shoe.

In a race, this probably would not happen, because corners are taken at higher speed and you do not turn the handlebar so much. But even so, this problem reduces my confidence in the bike.

I hope frame manufacturers will consider this problem more carefully. Many modern aero/race bikes are becoming shorter and shorter at the front. This may make the bike feel more reactive, but for riders with bigger shoes, normal crank length and wider tyres, toe overlap can become a real problem.

Unfortunately, this frame is not suitable for me  :'(.

I have learned the lesson: from now on, I will not buy any road bike with a front-center below 600 mm.

For reference, my Voicevelo Echo has a front-center of 598 mm, and toe overlap is already annoying.
The Avenger R8-RS size 56 has a front-center of 591.6 mm, so the problem is clearly worse.

I also noticed that some modern aero/race frames go even below 590 mm in front-center. In my opinion, this is a real problem for many riders.

Even changing from 172.5 mm cranks to 170 mm cranks would only give about 2.5 mm more clearance, so with these very short front-center geometries the problem would still remain.

I think frame manufacturers should consider this more carefully. A bike can be reactive, but it also has to be safe and easy to handle in real-life low-speed situations

Forgive me, I don't mean to sound rude, but since you had this issue with the Voicevelo Echo frame, why did you choose an Avenger R8 in size 56, which has practically the same geometry?

Regarding the geometry, the angles on both frames aren't "extreme" or "modern" at all, but rather classic; theoretically, then, you would face this same problem with any frame featuring a 73° head tube angle... to get around it, you should look for frames with a head tube angle of less than 73° (or particularly long reach compared to traditional sizes).

Just out of curiosity: what prompted you to switch from the Voicevelo Echo to the Avenger R8?

[Pehem]

Just for others, the short manual how to assemble the handlebar. The manual is also attached to my previous post, but I added it here one more time. Regarding the geometry, the most important is that is not correct! You should reduce 3 cm from the stack, it's lower! I can show you the numbers later. That is why I have 8 spacers so 4 cm instead of 2 spacers as I assumed! Some quick update before some final review. Bike is really great, I was on the race in the mountains, Tatra Road Race, ~82 km, 2300 up, no issues. Conditions so the weather was really terrible, so wind and rain, and I felt very confident on it.

I don't know what you meant with the picture of the steering stopper but I tried to remove it and it's much better. I also degreased the fork and used carbon paste to prevent potential stem slippage. After one ride, the steering never felt as good as it is now. Thank you. I don't know if the steering limiter was interfering somehow with the cable port grommet, I would have preferred keeping it but nevermind.

[Mariuszuzd]

I'm 187 cm, I have 58 size, no issues with the above mentioned matter. I have 45 size of the shoe. I will check it carefully when I come back from my vacation.

[kubackje]

I have just finished building the bike, but unfortunately I think I will sell it immediately.

The problem is toe overlap: the front wheel touches my shoe when I turn the handlebar a lot at low speed.

For reference, I am 186 cm tall, the frame is size 56, I use EU size 46 shoes and 172.5 mm cranks.

I already have some toe overlap on my Voicevelo Echo, and it is already annoying there, but on this bike it is even worse. The front wheel is simply too close to the pedals / shoes

This is a problem in real-life situations: starting from a junction, turning slowly, riding near pedestrians, crossing narrow bridges, or making a tight U-turn. I do not want to ride a bike while always worrying that the front wheel may touch my shoe.

In a race, this probably would not happen, because corners are taken at higher speed and you do not turn the handlebar so much. But even so, this problem reduces my confidence in the bike.

I hope frame manufacturers will consider this problem more carefully. Many modern aero/race bikes are becoming shorter and shorter at the front. This may make the bike feel more reactive, but for riders with bigger shoes, normal crank length and wider tyres, toe overlap can become a real problem.

Unfortunately, this frame is not suitable for me  :'(.

I have learned the lesson: from now on, I will not buy any road bike with a front-center below 600 mm.

For reference, my Voicevelo Echo has a front-center of 598 mm, and toe overlap is already annoying.
The Avenger R8-RS size 56 has a front-center of 591.6 mm, so the problem is clearly worse.

I also noticed that some modern aero/race frames go even below 590 mm in front-center. In my opinion, this is a real problem for many riders.

Even changing from 172.5 mm cranks to 170 mm cranks would only give about 2.5 mm more clearance, so with these very short front-center geometries the problem would still remain.

I think frame manufacturers should consider this more carefully. A bike can be reactive, but it also has to be safe and easy to handle in real-life low-speed situations

That's a bummer, but to be honest there is NOTHING modern in terms of geometry in this frame. Modern aero frames have long front center, so something you are looking for. In example ridley Noah fast or Eddy merckx 525r

[massarob]

Arrived and installed, I just need a better T47 BB as this is just to finish it.
So far my only concern is about headset preloading as, even without using it yet, it seems a little tricky to settle. I added also the 2 metal rings between the C ring and the 1st headset cover (as shown on their IG channel).
That's also the reason I did not put the "aero" stem cover yet but an above spacer and a top cap.
Hose routing was relatively easy, just the last hole on the handlebar/behind the levers is tightly angled.
The look is nice and aggressive, the weight is not bad even with relatively heavy wheels and Magene Pedals is 7.5 Kg in size 52.
On the same target price, I would have bought the new Cube Agree (€3300 with full Ultegra), but it was released just few days ago.

[Ghandy]

Arrived and installed, I just need a better T47 BB as this is just to finish it.
So far my only concern is about headset preloading as, even without using it yet, it seems a little tricky to settle. I added also the 2 metal rings between the C ring and the 1st headset cover (as shown on their IG channel).
That's also the reason I did not put the "aero" stem cover yet but an above spacer and a top cap.
Hose routing was relatively easy, just the last hole on the handlebar/behind the levers is tightly angled.
The look is nice and aggressive, the weight is not bad even with relatively heavy wheels and Magene Pedals is 7.5 Kg in size 52.
On the same target price, I would have bought the new Cube Agree (€3300 with full Ultegra), but it was released just few days ago.

Nice build, very cool! If you change your mind and buy the cube consider me interested in the frame!