Quote from: vermit25 on October 01, 2026, 02:42:06 PM
Maybe you can try using a Cage Mount Extender, like this:
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ2cjtlF-gN95MbFJM6tYVKdI-Vf_Yj2GQxEA_AKPFl4dg4A2OsMQ3R9F6X-UoIJ_bwNA9z-Gm04P1dvzbtBlh33ja57uLJ_l6s9uk4B2FieHj65Q1QMe6vug

Thats cool, didnt know that exists.
In combination with a sideloader bottle cage, that might be it. Thanks !!

After a lot of fiddling around, slipping seatpost stuff and creaking noises, my bike is finally working like its supposed to.
Loads of carbon paste and a bit of foam on the storage door cleared my issues in the end.

I just finished a 3 day, 450km ride with 5000hm.
Bike was loaded with a frame bag, top tube bag and saddle bag.
The bike just works fine.
I love my Ultegra Di2 and the Elite Wheels Edge. Would definatly buy all 3 again.
The integrated bike computermount works fine for my Garmin 1040.

Frame has now 1000km, Wheels 5-6000km.

The only slight annoyence for me:
My Lezyine frame bag is too big and is luying on my bottles.
The bottles are sitting quite high and the top tube is quite low... bad combo.
The rear bottle bolts could be way lower, or there could be 3 so you could decide if you bolt the cage high or low.
A friend has that option on his ROSE bike and its pretty cool.

Quote from: klementino on September 08, 2026, 03:46:46 PM
Any update to this?  Interested to find a solution to the seatpost slipping issue.

Hi yes, good news.
After that mess with carbon paste and greasing the sliding surfaces (the tightening screw is yet to be greased), my system seems to be stable for now.
I did my first fun race this weekend in Luxemburg at "la Charly Gaul". It was ~112km and i hit a least one really big hole in the street.
I though, ok that was too much, I bet it slipped now.
After the race I checked the hight and it was still were it should be.Finally... BUT To be honest, before the race it re-tightened to 11Nm.
I would prefere to only do 8Nm and stay in spec.

For the creaking, i have to check that again. When riding along with so many people, its generally louder all the time.

Oh thats the next level from my mistake.
I ran the DI2 wire with the tool through the chain stays and it clogged up.
I pulled my tool an the wire out again and managed to wedge 1 or 2 of those anti-slips/cable tie thingys in the chain stay.
I guess thats is a point where the rear of the bike gets glued to the main frame. (Chain stay to main bike frame)
I tried to pull them out with different tools for 20 min... then though, well fu** it, they stay in 

More stripped paint and marks.

I drowned the post in Dynamic Carbon Paste... may a lot help a lot. Maybe i put on too less in the past.

Torque over spec to 10Nm again

Quote from: mingc on August 30, 2026, 05:37:00 PM
I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.

I think its not look related. Its just semi-good engineering.
If you engineer right... luck is not needed.

Quote from: rosteven on August 31, 2026, 12:34:32 AM
Maybe when you request the updated seatpost clamp from LC, also order a replacement seatpost - might finally solve your slippage problem once and for all.

I will ask. I am not willig to pay, as i expect it to work properly out of the box. Will see what they say.

Quote from: Dark17 on August 31, 2026, 02:15:59 AM
Try putting blue loctite on seatpost bolts

I am not sure if that would change anything but the friction of the screw in the threads => therefore putting down more clamping force.
I did something similar to that. See below.
The problem is not that the screw gets loose, the problem is, that the clamping force is too low to keep the seatpost in place.
But if that also doesnt work, why not add Loctite. Will be the next thing on my list of trial and error.


So I took of my seatpost today. You can see the stripped paint, and clamping marks.


Picture of my clamp


I greased the sliding angles, so the clamp should slide better and provide a stronger clamp, by using the same torque.

Quote from: mingc on August 28, 2026, 06:13:38 PMI think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

Quote from: MJaerogains on August 29, 2026, 12:28:13 AM
Took my bike into a new mechanic today and straight away he said he thinks the bottom of my seatpost is knocking against the seat tube when I'm climbing seated (which is the main time it creaks, stops as soon as I stand on the pedals), he's seen it before, so likely he will cut it a bit shorter.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

Quote from: Chupacabra on August 24, 2026, 01:27:17 PM
How much do you weight?

I am only 75kg.

Quote from: flax on August 25, 2026, 06:33:28 AM
Did you ask LC about the new upgraded seatpost clamp?

When was that released? I just got my bike not a month ago.
I have to check it again, but mine is all black. No shiny surface like on yours.
Oh no, that will take time till i get it.

Edit:
Due to the slipping, the anti-slip-coating is already ripped of on parts of my stem.

Quote from: Aerodurance on August 20, 2026, 01:50:28 PM


I totally agree with you.
Just go ahead and take the HBR14. Simple, cheap, its proven to work...done that on my bike. No issues, if you can handle to good look ;-)

I now have somewhat over 100km on my bike. Standard cheapo BB is already making noises.... meh
I think i will go for the rotor BB and put some shims between my BB and the carbon frame to prevent the BB from eating my frame.

Edit: Saddle slipped again at 240km with 9-10Nm... it start beeing annoying at this point.

Quote from: Plagymus on August 19, 2026, 11:19:47 AM
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.

I totally agree with you.
Just go ahead and take the HBR14. Simple, cheap, its proven to work...done that on my bike. No issues, if you can handle to good look ;-)

I now have somewhat over 100km on my bike. Standard cheapo BB is already making noises.... meh
I think i will go for the rotor BB and put some shims between my BB and the carbon frame to prevent the BB from eating my frame.

Quote from: mingc on August 14, 2026, 04:46:22 PM
For those who hear rattling from the inner storage area, check the pull tab on the storage bag zipper. It makes a surprisingly loud sound when it hits carbon.

See... i am not the only one. I just wrapped some brake hose anti rattling foam around it.

Quote from: Schneedolf on August 15, 2026, 07:17:07 AM
I imagine that a conical spacer in the right size can help fit the ortlieb axle.
But I have no idea how to measure it out which dimensions it should have.
If you have experience in that, this would super cool.

So measuring the Cone of the axle as first step.
That should be easy, because its size should be written somewere. Or i just measure it.
I dont know how the Ortlieb axle looks like. Can you show a picture?

Quote from: jksu on August 13, 2026, 05:59:42 AM
personal preference re: looks.  the HBR14 is the older "look" for sure. not sure how many of the newer riser bars you've seen but handlebars are going through a bit of an evolution right now.

the HBR17 is lighter, using some of the fancier M40 carbon fiber and titanium stem bolts, while still being plenty stiff.  and in terms of fit, has a slight rise and slightly greater flare in the drops.  so yeah, i think i would've still picked the HBR17 over the HBR14 given a choice

FIAT was also going trough an evolution when they made the fiat multipla.
HBR17 90*380= 305gr
HBR 14 90*380=340gr
Very happily taking those 35gr for the better looks (personal preference).

Quote from: MarioCanario on August 13, 2026, 04:36:35 PM
i guess no one would take the HBR14 voluntarily

I must have a major mismatch with every biker I talk to about this frame (not owning a HBR17). But maybe you're right

Quote from: Esoteric on August 14, 2026, 02:22:47 AM
Pics

So cool everyone makes his own frame with the colors. Fancy color !

Quote from: Schneedolf on August 14, 2026, 03:25:19 AM
My Ortlieb trough axle for the ortlieb quick rack did not fit for example.

I dont get why they dont just go for a more standard approach. Changing would be so easy.

Quote from: Schneedolf on August 14, 2026, 04:09:37 AM
And maybe someone could help with a 3d print. I am lacking the technical finesse to figure out how to make the correct measurements, but I know there are people out there to help . If I have an update on that, I will provide you with the files for the print.

What exactly are you looking for? Maybe i can help (if possible).

Quote from: 2wheeledbarbie on August 12, 2026, 02:40:57 PM
have you clipped it in properly.  should be very snug.  Are you sure it isn't your cables rattling?

Yes, 100%.
With the foam on that cover, it is quite now. The brake cable is housed in anti-rattling foam.

@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit  in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily

Quote from: jksu on August 09, 2026, 09:12:04 PM123

I dont like fullquotes so just for info its a reply to your post.

The through axles were already damaged by a guy in a german forum.
I agree that they somehow feel soft. The paint of the threads was immediately gone (thats why i am a bit nervous about them. I often take the wheel of when i travel with the bike in the car).
I didn´t have that on my Newman axles on my Radon/Cube bike.
Finding a new axle for that cone is harder than for a standard axle. Not sure why you would choose such an axle.

The LCR18 is my first Aerobike. I had a Radon R1 with aero bars and the Elite-Wheels Edge 1.0 50mm before.
I just switched the frame and it feels very different.
I also switched from 400mm handlebars on the R1 to 380mm on the LCR18.
Yes that is a reason, but its not proportional to the higher forces.
Its ok, i can live with it, but its way more then i expected.

Rattling on the cover is now gone.

For the BB thing: I guess its not a frame but a systemical issue (or a issue of that specific BB).

Look at how the nut is diggin into the frame. That should not be if you ask me.
It is the standard BB that LC includes. Maybe others are better, but this one.... i dont want to install it 3-4 times.

I haven't ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.

Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels strangely nice and surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.

Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn't like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn't feel right or durable.

Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it's quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn't work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.

I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.

The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It's a pity they aren't standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.

The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but forr me, it didn't work out of the box.

Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.

The frame is nicely made and the painting is incredible for that price.
The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
I would order again but ask for more standard axles and holes.