Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - NB87

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
Do you think Seka's seatpost would fit the LC72 ? I have a trust issue with the hole under the saddle.

It would be interesting to know if the seka post would fit (because I personally think it looks better and has proper saddle rail clamp system) but what do you mistrust about the hole?

2
I'm interested to see this one build up read about some first hand experience in quality and riding characteristics. The photo's from Mondince are not really helping them.. 

3
A short update after 2000km on my bike.

Discovered a little crack in the paint in the right top corner of the storage opening.

LC checked the pictures and said: "Our engineer said that is just a little bit crack on the paint surface, it won't affect the stiffness and strength. Please don't worry about that."

I mean in this area you can not flex the carbon due to the thickness of it, so pushing and squeezing it doesn't do anything.
I also don't hear any difference when tapping it. I'm no carbon expert but will trust LC with this statement.

Still waiting for an answer to the question that this shouldn't be normal in the paint, after 2k and 3/4 year of riding.

And i don't want to complaint about, that the under 1k€ frame has a small crack in the paint (if it's only the paint i guess).
I mean, i ride this bike like a 1.5k€ bike. No paint protection foil or else.

At the end of the day it's a not a 10k€ bike, which i would cry over every small dent/scratch in the paint ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I noticed a similar mark on the exact same spot yesterday. I'm not too fuzzed about it, if it says like this, but it is remarkable that this type of crack appears more often. Ive done 2200km on the bike since half of april

4
Is someone able to measure the spindle diameter?

I'm measuring 23.95 on both sides with digital caliper. My bike is equipped with Oniri t47 85.5 bb.
I feel some play on both crankarms and it makes a ticking sound while pedalling with some pressure.
There's no lateral play and I played a bit with the preload but that doesn't solve it.

I'm a bit worried tyat the interface between spindle and bb is not tight enough. I didn’t have this issue with shimano ulegra crank that I used a while ago. Don’t have it around anymore so can't measure that spindle
 

5
The BigRock spider fitted perfectly, and when I installed the Xcadey there was a small amount of play (minimal), but once it was bolted down it was completely solid and I haven’t had any issues.

Regarding the bolts, I would have liked to use the original ones or SRAM bolts, but Xcadey supplies their own bolts, which must be tightened to the torque specified by the brand. I haven’t had any quality issues with them. Xcadey specifies a tightening torque of 5 Nm, so I followed the manual and tightened them to that value.

Before receiving the Xcadey, I bought compatible bolts just in case, as I had heard comments about the poor quality of the original ones. I bought M5x12 compatible bolts; I’m attaching the link below:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005007279049844.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.22.1c71194dGIt1jN&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp

As for it protruding slightly more, this is something that is already known about this power meter, as I had seen it before. In my case, I have a T47 86.5 mm bottom bracket and I had to add spacers to prevent rubbing. In total, I added 2.5 mm on the drivetrain side, because otherwise the power meter would rub against the bottom bracket.

As a result, the crank arms are not perfectly centered now. I installed it this way just for testing and I should disassemble it again to try to balance both sides, although I’m not sure if that will be possible.

Don't use these bolts. They've got a tapered head, compared to the original flat head. I knew it wasn't perfect but I still gave it a shot because I didn't like the fragile looking original bolts.
The tapered ones came loose (even with using loctite) and my bike started to make a creaking sound when pedaling. I kind of forgot about the bolts and it took me a while to found out they were the issue.

Went back to the original flat bolts and the bike is quiet again.

Regarding the spacing on the T47 86.5 BB I had exactly the same issue. Also added 2,5mm of spacers. I solved the difference by adding a spacer on my left pedal.

6
....

Negatives:
The saddle clamp system. Bloody hell, that was frustrating.
About 5 km in, I hit a bump and the saddle tilted. I was fully in race mode near the front of my age group, so stopping was not an option. I managed to force it back level using my weight and hand pressure, but it kept happening throughout the race. Probably 50 times or so. I had to constantly focus on sitting perfectly centered to avoid it tilting again. Very annoying.

Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy. Edit: problem is gone. Possibly was caused by a crash earlier in the race, creating a bit of play/disbalance in the headset area.

Also noticed a rattling sound somewhere on the bike. I suspect the storage cover, but I’ll need to investigate. I like a quiet bike.
Edit: it was my multitool rattling around in the storage  :-X

...

Resolved 2 of the negatives... ran into another, but that's a squeeking BigRock crank issue so I won't bother you guys with it here.

7
what is max rear tire clearnence with front 105 Derailleur?

In my case 38mm. And it sits about 2mm from the motor

8
Was there a response to this question I missed, and if so, what is the link to it?
I have searched the forum and also have this question as to where this spacer is intended to be placed.

It sits on top of the tapered piece that centeres the steerer fork in the top bearing (and guides the cables at the front), below the cover that you're trying to raise (if it sits too close to the frame).
Where else could it go 🤷‍♂️

9
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699  - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120.  Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145

I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.

I've got this color and I agree it's lighter than british racing green. I don't mind it though. Looks awesome if you ask me. What do you mean with "Like 2x the L in HSL color"?

https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5970.0;attach=45053;image

10
One thing that might be worth a try - a couple of weeks back I was tightening the seatpost clamp, but was still getting movement in the seatpost and lots of slippage.
I took out the seatpost wedge, dismantled and cleaned, and put some light oil on the insides - made a huge difference - you could feel the seatpost tightening to no movement at much lower force.
When reinstalling I also used silca carbon grip paste, which seems to me to be a step above the standard stuff I used before.

Might be worth a try just to rule it out if nothing else.

I did something similar. I greased the bolt and surface of the wedge that slides against the other wedge. Put carbon paste on the surface that touches the seatpost. Some more carbon grip paste around the entire seatpust that sits in the frame. And done. Didn't move at all and it got a serious beating in the meantime

11
I've got a 0 setback seatpost and the saddle almost in maxed out forward position with 120mm stem.

So in my case I can't believe it's weight distribution.

I did however crash earlier in the race when the whole group slowed down all of a sudden. I was braking really heavily and went from nose wheely to hitting the wheel of the guy in front and then I got catapulted off the bike. Maybe that impact caused some kind of disbalance in the setup.

I've ridden about 1000km now with the bike and during the race was the first time that I experienced the speed wobble. And I have definitely ridden without hands on the bar before yesterday.

I will check it and update here.

12
Today was Marly Grav. A 150 km gravel race through the south of the Netherlands, right in the Amstel Gold Race region.

It’s a UCI event where mere mortals get to race the same roads as riders like WvA. He won it in 4:08. The 150 km with 1800 m of elevation took me about an hour longer 😬

I’ll spare you the full race story, but I thought it would be interesting to share some thoughts on the bike after putting it through a proper test today.

Setup:
• Size 54 frame
• 380/120 cockpit
• Frame storage version (delivered early April, so updated seatpost + storage cover version)
• Zen 60/55 wheels, 24 mm internal width, 20 spokes front/rear, 3.1 mm
• Rear tire: Vredestein Aventura Seta 38 mm
• Front tire: Schwalbe G-One Allround 40mm
• 105 Di2 with GRX820 rear mech
• Ali carbon 165 mm cranks (forgot the brand, might update later)
• 52/36 Stone chainrings
• Ultegra 11-34 cassette

Positives:
The setup of the bike felt almost perfect. Apart from the rear wheel stiffness issue (that’s another story), I honestly can’t think of much I’d change.

This thing is FAST. The wheels definitely help, but especially once speeds go up on descents, the bike really comes alive. I could fully feed off those moments 😈

Handling is very good too. I usually do well once roads get more technical and twisty, and this bike absolutely rewards that.

And yeah… it looks amazing.

Negatives:
The saddle clamp system. Bloody hell, that was frustrating.
About 5 km in, I hit a bump and the saddle tilted. I was fully in race mode near the front of my age group, so stopping was not an option. I managed to force it back level using my weight and hand pressure, but it kept happening throughout the race. Probably 50 times or so. I had to constantly focus on sitting perfectly centered to avoid it tilting again. Very annoying.

Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy. Edit: problem is gone. Possibly was caused by a crash earlier in the race, creating a bit of play/disbalance in the headset area.

Also noticed a rattling sound somewhere on the bike. I suspect the storage cover, but I’ll need to investigate. I like a quiet bike.
Edit: it was my multitool rattling around in the storage  :-X

The bike and myself really got put through the wringer today.

Fantastic event.

13
Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some geometry advice on the LightCarbon LCR018 frameset as I have quite extreme body proportions and I’m struggling to pick the right size and stem length for my build. My current bike is a size 61, which was a result of some bad advice from a friend, and it's definitely way too big for me.

My height is 182 cm with a 92 cm inseam, which means I have very long legs relative to my height. I am also recovering from ACL surgery, so I need a stable setup that is not too punishing on the knee while remaining fast.

Looking at the geometry chart for the LCR018-D, size 540 has a reach of 383 mm and a stack of 569 mm, whereas size 560 offers a reach of 389 mm and a stack of 586.8 mm. My main concern is that with a 92 cm inseam, my saddle height will be very high and on a size 540, the saddle-to-handlebar drop would be massive. I am leaning towards the size 560 to benefit from the extra 17.8 mm of stack height, but I am worried about the 389 mm reach being too long for my relatively short torso.

I am considering using a shorter stem, perhaps 90 mm or 100 mm from the available options, to compensate for the longer reach on the 560 frame and I wonder if anyone with similar 'all legs' proportions has experience with a shorter stem on this specific integrated cockpit.

Given that the LCR018 has a fully integrated cable routing system and a specific cockpit setup, would you suggest doing a professional bike fit before ordering the frame and handlebar, or is this geometry standard enough to adjust later? If anyone with a 90+ cm inseam has built this frame, I would love to hear what size and stem length you chose to avoid feeling too stretched out while keeping the front end high enough.

Thanks!

I'm 183 with 89cm inseam. So also long legs but a bit less extreme as you.
Ive chosen the 54 with 120mm stem and it's ok for me. Maybe a bit short. Ive got the bar completely slammed and don't feel the saddle to handlebar drop is aggressive at all.

I'm thinking that I could also make the 56 fit me well (maybe better) by choosing a non riser bar and 110mm stem.

That being said, I'm quite flexible and adaptable. I also have no clue what your riding style is and how flexible you are.

So bottom line, how I fit on the bike, with kind of similar proportions, is hard to compare because we could be comparing apples to oranges. A bikefit is always a good idea if you're unsure and don't have a decent baseline to go off.

14
I really like the look of this frame!
I'm going to keep an eye on this  :)

15

My AI analysis thanks for pointing out Tines Still requires me to put the information into and dictate  into it.
All it gives me back when I request the information is it in a refined manner.
So am I not allowed to use AI? or to keep people like you happy should I highlight in my reply?
Instead of pointing and criticising my use off  AI and obviously trying to be a smart arse why don’t you try and help answer the question? Otherwise keep your thoughts to yourself.
I don’t claim to be any expert all I try and do is help people who know less than myself and there are others here who know more that’s it.
Absolutely nothing wrong with using AI to refine my answers and improve grammar and spelling


Simple answer to his question
He needs thicker carbon spokes
Or go
20/24 or 24/24 spokes with 3.1mm
Or
20/24 or 24/24 spokes at 3.95mm or 5.1mm as they are about 40% stuffer
And will then give him a stuffer Wheelset

Absolutely nothing wrong with using ai. Ai is useless without the input. Your reply was very clear and informative but didn't really give an answer to what your experience is with the wheel configuration that I chose.

I'm aware what needs to be done to get a stiffer wheelset, but I didn't think I was pushing the limits with the configuration that was recommended to me by Zara. Therefore I would be quite disappointed tbh if I now have to buy another wheelset. When inquiring about the possiblitities I even stated "I'm an 85kg rider and prefer strength over super light weight".

I don't think my values are that abnormal?! If this is a limitation for this configuration people should be made aware of this. I would have happily chosen a different configuration if I knew.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6