Quote from: [email protected] on February 16, 2024, 04:42:28 AM
GOOD MORNING

IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS

That's the one, thanks! So, accounting for a gap between it and the frame, ~15mm is close enough.

Quote from: jardo0o on February 16, 2024, 05:11:00 AM
Nice job! Catia? 

FreeCAD

Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.

Quote from: jcr on February 17, 2024, 01:18:37 AM
Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.

I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.

Quote from: Easyfunk on February 17, 2024, 01:49:09 AM
I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.

Thats basically how its done on all fully-integrated mechanical builds. Not optimal nor hassle free, but works...

I was more thinking of mechanical gear with hydraulic brakes but still 4 housing to route

I am running a mechanical 105 with hydraulic brakes.
I just finished routing after some struggles all cables through handlebar and frame, shifting cables completely until the derraileurs. Drilled out the FD stop, and the movement of the shifting cables inside the housings feels OK - but gotta see after finishing setting that up.

So, my build is done 

Wow what paint color is that? Absolutely gorgeous!

Thank you! It's glossy pearl white.

Very nice! Came out clean, white is my favorite for bikes. Looking to do a similar build as I picked up 105 DI2 last year on close out. Also looking at Elite wheels seem like good value for the money.

Maybe it will help you to decide, I own one pair of Elitewheels ENT rim brake version with 4k kilometers and no issue, so I decided to order lighter EDGE model for VB. In my opinion ENT hub sound is nicer, but weight of EDGEs wins.

I'm also doing a 105 Di2 close-out build - split my order up into 3 orders at TPC so I could use 3 $50 off $200 codes, and ended up with a full 105 groupset for ~$450

Wheels-wise, I bought a set of UNI 50/65 (front/rear) wheels from Leon at Yuanan (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4617.0.html) - haven't ridden on them but they're really nice looking/feeling wheels and he was super great to work with. The price was absolutely right, and the wheels are lighter than my existing Cannondale Hollowgram 35s and shipped with tubeless rim tape and valves. IIRC Yuanan is the manufacturer for EliteWheels

I did end up having to buy the battery separately, and ended up with 175mm cranks when I wanted 172.5... but I might swap those for a magene P505 anyways.

Finished building up the bike this weekend! Feels great to ride although I do need to do some more dialing in of the brakes.  Came out to 8.43 kg which was a little more than I hoped for but I'm still super happy with. Did end up needing to drill a hole in the FD cable passthrough to fit the Di2 cables through.

What i've noticed so far:

• Cable routing, especially through the bars, was much easier than I expected! Would hate to do a mech build in this bike though.
• I've never ridden a bike with carbon bars - I was super surprised by how compliant they are, especially gripping the hoods. Is this normal or should I be concerned?
• Seems like there isn't enough fiber grip in the world to keep this seat level - I smeared it all over the inside of the seatpost and cranked on the clamping bolt as tight as I felt comfortable, but it still tips around (as you can see in the photo)
• Rear Di2 cable REALLY wants to go into the gears - right now I have it taped down to the frame with some electrical tape but I'm wondering if anyone has some tips for that?

Overall I'm super happy with the bike and loving VB's "ice break" paint job!

THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME. I SPREAD EVERYTHING WITH CARBON FIBER PASTE AND TIGHTEN UP TO 17 NEWTONS BUT THE THREAD WAS DAMAGED.
THEN I REALIZED THAT THE PARTS AND THAT AREA OF THE POST ARE MADE OF ALUMINUM SO I REMOVED ALL THE PASTE, CLEANED IT WITH DEGREASER AND TIGHTENED IT AGAIN WITH ANOTHER PROVISIONAL SCREW TO 15 NEWTONS. AT THE MOMENT THE SADDLE HAS NOT BEEN LOOSENED AGAIN, I HAVE ALSO ORDERED THE TITANIUM SCREW. REALLY ALL THE HARDWARE THEY SEND IS OF VERY POOR QUALITY.