Author Topic: New IP-057 Build  (Read 18558 times)

MTB2223

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #45 on: January 02, 2015, 05:35:14 PM »
Looking good!!! Like the stealth look. Duh, got the same look on mine.
Wondering, why are you riding 160-160 rotors? Here in the Netherlands, it's common to ride 180mm rotors on the front and 160mm on the back. It gives so much (overall) brake power.

Carbon_Dude

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #46 on: January 02, 2015, 06:25:40 PM »
Looking good!!! Like the stealth look. Duh, got the same look on mine.
Wondering, why are you riding 160-160 rotors? Here in the Netherlands, it's common to ride 180mm rotors on the front and 160mm on the back. It gives so much (overall) brake power.

Agree, typically 180/160 is a popular combination.  Although, I do know some people who don't want that much braking ability on the front wheel for fear of going over the bars.

As for the bleed kit, they are not commonly stocked at most local bike shops.  For those getting ready to do their own build, I would highly recommend going ahead and ordering the bleed kit for the brand of brakes you are about to install.  If you are lucky and don't need the bleed kit on your initial build, you will need the kit later for routine maintenance.
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foamman1

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #47 on: January 02, 2015, 06:52:45 PM »
Yea the 160 rotor thing was an oversight on my part I chose the 160 twice in shopping cart by mistake. I didn't know til i opened the box. I figured since the biggest hill within a 100 mile drive is only about 200 ft elevation i would ride them till i ordered something, and i would add it to the order. These are light years better than the rim brakes that i had on the tank. After riding a little more i will lower the stem some too i have 25MM spacers now.  I figured its easier to cut it down than add. I cheaped out on the tires because of the favorable reviews at price point.  (vee rubber flying V) These are turds on the wet roots. They might be ok on the dry as they were advertised for, we will see. Can any one recommend some hard pack with roots tires that don't weigh a ton, will mount on Stan's arch ex wheels without selling your soul to the devil. I was looking at the racing ralph's, but i am open to suggestions.
L.T.

Carbon_Dude

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #48 on: January 02, 2015, 09:32:39 PM »
So far my favorite tires I can recommend are the Geax Suguaro TNT (foldable).  Many also like Maxxis tires (Ardent, Ignitor, or Ikon).
2019 Stumpjumper Expert 29/27.5+
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2016 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Carbon Comp 6Fattie (27.5+) (Sold)
2016 Trek Stache 9 (29+) w/upgrades (Sold)
2014 -036 Full Suspension Chiner (Sold)
2013 -057 Hardtail Carbon Chiner (Sold)
Atlanta, GA

brmeyer135

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #49 on: January 04, 2015, 01:46:25 PM »
The brakes are so good these days, most people's riding doesn't need more than 160 up front.
I suspect more people use their back brake anyways...like when one is going downhill it seems most tend to use back brakes even though one should be back over the rear tire and applying both front and back.
I run 160's front and back...at this time the front is plenty and actually, I don't want to be able to stop on a dime with the front cause I can stop on quarter with my 160.  180 would just make it easier to go over the front bar.
Ride the 160 and see if you actually need more up front.

Sitar_Ned

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #50 on: January 04, 2015, 04:33:48 PM »
I'll second CD's recommendation for the Geax Suguaro TNT tires. I've been riding mine for about 6 months now and they function well in most every trail condition I've encountered. A great "jack of all trades" kinda tire. They even ride well on pavement. The only real downsides I can think of is they aren't great in thick mud or really wet/slick rock. Also, they're a tad heavier than I'd like them to be (prob not enough to matter) but that just contributes to their durability, I'm sure.

Also, they are way cheaper than the Maxxis tires, which I was wanting to get initially.

And I doubt you ever feel the need to upgrade that rotor from 160 to 180.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 04:39:53 PM by Sitar_Ned »

MTB2223

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #51 on: January 05, 2015, 02:31:42 AM »
Agree, typically 180/160 is a popular combination.  Although, I do know some people who don't want that much braking ability on the front wheel for fear of going over the bars.
Really, these people need a training in the basics of a mountainbike.
When using only your front brake, it takes 1/3 of the braking distance compared to only using the rear brake. For those that don't believe this, try it at home. Go to a green grass field, put a pion/pilon on the field. Ride/race towards the pion, use only your front brake (blocking wheel isn't bad). then again, with the same speed, ride to the pion, use now only your rear break. Now you'll see the difference. Now you can imagine what it will do with you braking distance when using both brakes.
One remark, when using your front brake, put have to put your ass after your saddle (basic technique) otherwise you will make a faceplant :) .

It's so much easier/nicer to ride when you possess ( <-- correct word?) the basic techniques (climbing, braking, surplace, taking drops, etc)

Carbon_Dude

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #52 on: January 05, 2015, 07:34:30 AM »
Like most people these days, I also ride with 180r/160rr disc brakes.  I like the larger front rotor mostly to reduce braking effort.  On long rides it's nice to not work my left hand as much, less fatigue is always good.  I also know a few people who ride with a 203mm front disk, for the same reason, the like using less effort throughout their ride.  Of course a 160mm rotor up front is adequate, but the larger rotors are nice.

Another example of larger front rotors is my motorcycle, not only are the rotors larger up front, the motorcycle has dual disc brakes up front, single in the rear.  This is because it's well known that 75%-80% of your braking force comes from the front wheel as weight transfers forward under hard braking.
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2014 -036 Full Suspension Chiner (Sold)
2013 -057 Hardtail Carbon Chiner (Sold)
Atlanta, GA

carbonazza

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #53 on: January 05, 2015, 09:38:15 AM »
I planned two 160mm rotors initially.
But there is no compatible adaptor between Hope brakes and a Lefty fork.
Hope told me to switch to a 183mm rotor(or larger).

I just changed my brake pads this weekend, the rear pads were almost worn out, while the front pads had still some mm left.
Strangely, I was convinced to brake more with the front than the rear(from my motorcycle past).
Or may be the 180mm make the front brake more efficient, saving some pads wear.

foamman1

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #54 on: January 05, 2015, 11:26:27 AM »
Thanks for all the input. As far as the tires I looked at the  Geax Suguaro tires and thought these would be great, but then started looking at the weight. Wow these are heavy compared to icons or RR. Granted I have zero practical experience with any of these so maybe the weight wouldn't be noticeable. I also noticed a lot of the vendors (art's, pricepoint and may be more)no longer carry many of the Geau tires. Not sure why. I know that RR get a lot of good reviews. Are they really all that?

 As far as the brakes I would have to agree with all comments. 180 up front no doubt would be more effective breaking. The faster and or stepper the grade the more braking required. That being said with my skill/fitness level and terrain that I ride, the 160 is likely sufficient. I will change the front one, but i will  ride them as they are in the mean time.

cmh

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #55 on: January 17, 2015, 05:02:47 PM »
Like most people these days, I also ride with 180r/160rr disc brakes.

I would NEVER run 180/160 on my bike. (because I run avid disks so it's 185/160)  ;D

For a while I stepped it up to 203/185 just because I could but honestly didn't think it was all that much better so I went back to the 185/160. Paired with the BB7 brakes, it's shockingly good. My original Avid Elixirs (I think) were great until I couldn't get them to bleed well anymore. I found out this seems like a common thing on the Avids. Had some BB7s sitting around so used them as a temporary thing but I love their feel and performance so much I seem to have forgotten to buy replacements.


brmeyer135

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #56 on: January 17, 2015, 05:27:59 PM »
Haven't used the BB7s but would think they would be great in modulation/control/feel - as it is a direct pull.
We lose touch/feel with hydraulics but learn to mostly overcome the multiplicativ power generation.
I look at it as, BB7s have less chance to throw you over the bars in an emergency situation since the power generated is not multiplied
and therefore more controllable by us.

Carbon_Dude

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #57 on: January 17, 2015, 08:08:07 PM »
I'm never going to give up my XT M785 brakes.  I have used Avid Elixir, Avid Juicy and BB5's.  Those Avid brakes weren't bad but my XT brakes are phenomenal in comparison.  The BB5's were the lowest maintenance, and yes they had a very linear pull but on long, hard rides they would get tiring.  I would expect BB7 brakes to be even stronger, so I'm sure less effort than my old BB5 brakes.  However, the XT brakes work so well that they are now my favorite.  I even got to ride a Scott Scale with the latest Avid Trail brakes last year, they were good but not quite as good as the Shimano brakes.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2015, 08:12:23 PM by Carbon_Dude »
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2013 -057 Hardtail Carbon Chiner (Sold)
Atlanta, GA

cmh

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #58 on: January 17, 2015, 09:33:45 PM »
Haven't used the BB7s but would think they would be great in modulation/control/feel - as it is a direct pull.

I forgot how great the BB7s work.  Everything about them works great.

Quote
I look at it as, BB7s have less chance to throw you over the bars in an emergency situation since the power generated is not multiplied
and therefore more controllable by us.

I meant to mention this - if you have a brake that throws you over the bars, you don't know how to use your brakes, plain and simple. There are no two ways about this.  I remember when I was younger and riding cheap bikes on steel rims and the brakes couldn't stop a free-falling feather, but somehow folks could still manage to flip over the bars because they had no idea how to use the brakes. So, any brake has the "power to throw you over the bars" if you let them.

I don't care if you've got 200mm rotors with multi-piston downhill brakes or weak single-pivot road brakes - if you can't do an emergency stop without fear of flipping - stop right now and go learn. You need to know how to panic stop before you're in a panic situation. You need to know how to get your weight back. You need to know how to apply the front brake firmly but not with a sudden jerk. You need to know how to modulate the brakes so you can adjust as necessary without having to think about it.

I've been in plenty of emergency stop situations, and there have even been times when I've lifted the rear tire. I've never flipped over the bars (well, not from braking alone ;) ) because I've taken the time to learn how to stop.

brmeyer135

Re: New IP-057 Build
« Reply #59 on: January 18, 2015, 06:51:01 AM »
Emergency is emergency...not time to think, shift back...yes, experienced riders will auto shift but, there are plenty of stories of over the bars because of emergency stops.  I am sure plenty of folks here have their own OTB stories.

Talking about this has me thinking, if you are right handed, you should probably be riding moto style...front braking in an emergency needs the most control(modulate) to keep the back tire down.
We probably have the right hand as the rear with the thinking of a more powerful stop.

Back to the build, have you ever mentioned your design for your bike?  to race, all around, general XC and the conditions you have in your area.
I thought SB8 or Ikons...those type treads were for all-around.   Obviously, each tire dealer has a chart for tire suggested usage.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2015, 07:19:11 AM by brmeyer135 »