VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[Nkearb]

I had luck today overtorquing the expander and under torquing the top cap. Like 14NM on the plug and like 2nm on the top cap. I finally was able to complete a 2 hour ride without slipping but it still was a bit loose, only noticed small amount of play if I applied the front breaks hard or cornered quickly. The expander plug and integrated handlebar bolts are so stripped at this point lol. New bolts and plug are ordered, but I think I will have to live with this for the time being. I am getting creaking from the seat clamp, I see Patty says the carbon seat clamps are flawed... I am not looking to spend more money on this thing. Looking to swap to a different frame asap. Maybe a Allez Sprint or get something from winspace next time they run a sale.

[s3si1u]

Which VB bike was that? If they fit the 268 as well, I might consider changing the cockpit if that fixes it for good.

It was a 177. I would maybe try a different compression ring or two before going for a full cockpit switch, unless you really want to go this route anyway. The One Pro comes with two different compression rings (one alloy and one some kind of nylon/plastic) that wrap all the way around the steerer. I had luck with aftermarket C shaped rings, as well.

[patliean1]

Sheesh thanks for your service Pat on all these videos you churning out man!

Finally placed my order today, hoping to the shipping gods that it will arrive before a race that I will be attending on the 21st of September jeez!

How many weeks have you guys received yours? I opted to go just the stock matte black and would probably repaint it next year or so in order to save shipping times

Got the NECO Large headset expander as well, props to you again Pat!

Keep the videos coming! ordered a 53-39 Crankset, an equally pancake flat that is Abu Dhabi comparable to Chi-town.

Lovin all those RnB in between references as well

Lastly, PAT do you ever recommend those Ceramic BB86 from Aliexpress?

Thank you! A lot of my early YouTube success has come from the support of this very forum. Especially for VeloBuild.

Shipping took about 2-3 weeks. Regarding bottom brackets, I stay away from the AliExpress stuff personally. Wheels MFG makes super reliable BBs for BB86 if you're running Shimano cranks.

[Tdiguy]

Has anyone found a direct mount hanger to work on the 268? 

[Jnewman]

My build of a mix match of parts. Yet to be properly ridden!
SRAM AXS Force/Rival setup. The paint job is incredible - was sparkling in the sunshine, went with the Purple Chameleon.
Used the SL7 replica steerer plug and it was a VERY snug fit so hopefully should be staying in place. I took the metal rings of the Mavic Thru Axles and now they act like normal thru axles which is ideal - I could hear them rattling around inside my frame which was a nuisance.

[hazzer19]

My build of a mix match of parts. Yet to be properly ridden!
SRAM AXS Force/Rival setup. The paint job is incredible - was sparkling in the sunshine, went with the Purple Chameleon.
Used the SL7 replica steerer plug and it was a VERY snug fit so hopefully should be staying in place. I took the metal rings of the Mavic Thru Axles and now they act like normal thru axles which is ideal - I could hear them rattling around inside my frame which was a nuisance.

That looks goooood!

[Jnewman]

That looks goooood!

Thanks! Really happy with it - just need to take it out when it's not raining now!!

[agd12]

I completed my build approximately one month and 1,000 km ago, and I thought I would share some impressions and experiences. Communication with Velobuild went well, as did the tax-included shipping to Europe, which took just under three weeks. The frame size is 49 cm, and I chose the color "glossy pearl white" after seeing some great pictures earlier in the thread. The color looks just as impressive in person, although there are some minor imperfections in the paint (a couple of matte spots and some "orange peel"). Nothing I can't live with for the price.

I ordered the frame without the handlebar but with the stem. I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the stem (nor did I really intend to) based on the quality of workmanship it exhibited. I tossed it in the bin. Instead, I modeled and 3D-printed a custom transition piece in CF-reinforced nylon, between the stock headset dust cap and a genuine SL7 stem with corresponding spacers. It turned out quite well.

I opted to use a DEDA 70 mm expander plug, and the installation almost ended in disaster. It was oversized for the fork steerer’s internal diameter, so I had to turn/sand down the diameter of the end pieces. However, I misjudged the flexibility of the middle piece, and it began to get stuck about three-quarters of the way down during installation. I had to resort to an almost uncomfortable level of force, hammering it down with a rubber mallet, but it got there in the end. On the plus side, I’m sure it will never slip. Be careful if you plan to use this expander—don't repeat my mistake!

While the included headset bearings seemed fine, I installed stainless bearings from the start, hoping they’ll be "set and forget." The brake caliper mount faces were not properly masked during painting, so I had to carefully file/sand them down. To my relief, I haven’t encountered any alignment or rubbing issues so far.

Apart from the issues mentioned above, the build went smoothly without any major concerns. I used 105 Di2 except for the front derailleur and cassette (Ultegra), and rotors and chain (Dura-Ace). Routing the Di2 cables and brake hoses went smoothly after drilling/Dremeling out the hole in the front derailleur port. I bought the 3D-printed battery seatpost wedge that was linked earlier in the thread. The wheels are AR56 from LB, and the handlebar is PRO Vibe aero carbon. The included mounting hardware has worked fine with the PRO Turnix carbon rail saddle.

I had concerns about the speed-release axles, but they’ve worked flawlessly so far, and I would even say they're convenient. The small hex screw holding the derailleur hanger in place needs to be quite loose, though—otherwise, the thru-axle binds in the threads as it misaligns the hanger. I secured it with Loctite, and it hasn’t caused any issues since.

Would I buy again? Yes!

[PLA]

I've used the deda hss expander before and found due to the design (no spring so doesn't return fully closed...), you should clamp it with water pump pliers before inserting it to make it a little smaller!

[agd12]

I've used the deda hss expander before and found due to the design (no spring so doesn't return fully closed...), you should clamp it with water pump pliers before inserting it to make it a little smaller!

Good advice, I did exactly that but as evident it wasn’t really enough for my steerer (you can only compress the expander so much).

[2Burgen]

Short report from me.

Everything is running nicely and after retightening my headset after the first ride I did not have to tighten it again. This all with the standard parts dedivered by Velobuild.

[SillyMochi]

Glad it works for you. Headset didn't come loose again? How much torque did you apply to the compression plug and stem bolts?

[2Burgen]

Since I always stop before the max torque when doing it by hand, I stopped using a torque wrench after a few years of using one. So, I cannot answer the question.

The plug rather loose but the stem rather tighter.

[hazzer19]

I completed my build approximately one month and 1,000 km ago, and I thought I would share some impressions and experiences. Communication with Velobuild went well, as did the tax-included shipping to Europe, which took just under three weeks. The frame size is 49 cm, and I chose the color "glossy pearl white" after seeing some great pictures earlier in the thread. The color looks just as impressive in person, although there are some minor imperfections in the paint (a couple of matte spots and some "orange peel"). Nothing I can't live with for the price.

I ordered the frame without the handlebar but with the stem. I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the stem (nor did I really intend to) based on the quality of workmanship it exhibited. I tossed it in the bin. Instead, I modeled and 3D-printed a custom transition piece in CF-reinforced nylon, between the stock headset dust cap and a genuine SL7 stem with corresponding spacers. It turned out quite well.

I opted to use a DEDA 70 mm expander plug, and the installation almost ended in disaster. It was oversized for the fork steerer’s internal diameter, so I had to turn/sand down the diameter of the end pieces. However, I misjudged the flexibility of the middle piece, and it began to get stuck about three-quarters of the way down during installation. I had to resort to an almost uncomfortable level of force, hammering it down with a rubber mallet, but it got there in the end. On the plus side, I’m sure it will never slip. Be careful if you plan to use this expander—don't repeat my mistake!

While the included headset bearings seemed fine, I installed stainless bearings from the start, hoping they’ll be "set and forget." The brake caliper mount faces were not properly masked during painting, so I had to carefully file/sand them down. To my relief, I haven’t encountered any alignment or rubbing issues so far.

Apart from the issues mentioned above, the build went smoothly without any major concerns. I used 105 Di2 except for the front derailleur and cassette (Ultegra), and rotors and chain (Dura-Ace). Routing the Di2 cables and brake hoses went smoothly after drilling/Dremeling out the hole in the front derailleur port. I bought the 3D-printed battery seatpost wedge that was linked earlier in the thread. The wheels are AR56 from LB, and the handlebar is PRO Vibe aero carbon. The included mounting hardware has worked fine with the PRO Turnix carbon rail saddle.

I had concerns about the speed-release axles, but they’ve worked flawlessly so far, and I would even say they're convenient. The small hex screw holding the derailleur hanger in place needs to be quite loose, though—otherwise, the thru-axle binds in the threads as it misaligns the hanger. I secured it with Loctite, and it hasn’t caused any issues since.

Would I buy again? Yes!

Clean looking build! Especially the cockpit area, nice work

[arnaud63]

Hello everyone,

First, thanks for the hundreds of really helpful messages about this frame 

I have received the frame. I'm having a bit of difficulty to route the shifting cable for the front derailleur. There seems to be too much of a bend in the cable to properly seat in the cable pass through bracket. I have read several times that the metallic piece needs to be modified with a dremel so that the cable end cap sit more horizontally in the grommet. I have carefully started to drill the upper part but it seems not enough to have the cable properly seated inside. I'm using regular Shimano ot-sp41 outer cable.
I'm afraid that if the cable runs too much horizontally in the grommet, the inner cable may enter in contact with the tire or in order to prevent it, the inner cable will be bent too much when tightened to the RD.

I would appreciate any information or pictures on how you managed to have a mechanical front derailleur installed and route the cable.
Thanks