Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: ivorhooper on April 01, 2021, 02:10:15 AM
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Hi all, after lurking on here for ages and doing my own research, I've pulled the trigger and order a Velobuild VB-R-177.
The geometry is almost exactly the same as a Scott Addict as far as i can tell.
No word on when shipping will be yet - this is a new design so the frame is in testing, but that was due to finish at the end of March.
http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2020-vb-r-177-super-light-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-hidden-cables (http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2020-vb-r-177-super-light-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-hidden-cables)
I also ordered some 47mm wheel from Elite Wheels on Aliexpress. Production time for these is 13-20 working days, and shipping is 25-50 working days so i don't expect to see these very soon.
Also going one by as I hate front derailleurs! 42T Sram chainring with a 10-36 11speed cassette from Aliexpress.
Let's see how I get on!
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Which seller did you use on AliExpress?
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The frame was ordered on the velobuild website, the wheels were from elite wheels store on AliExpress. Can't remember what AliExpress store the cassette came from but it's from Zroad.
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Sounds good.
I look forward seeing some pictures once you've got it!
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Really curious to learn about how this came along, cheers to you man :)
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Just noticed the first 177 pictures on the website: http://www.velobuild.com/products/2020-vb-r-177-super-light-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-hidden-cables-custom-paint
Looks nice!
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Sorry to grave dig. Any update on the frame especially weight?
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Sorry to grave dig. Any update on the frame especially weight?
This has been a long, drawn out process!
Finally today, the status of my order is shipped from Velobuild after placing the order at the end of March!
I have been emailing Chris regularly and in fairness he always replies very quickly. Each update the shipping date went out by a few weeks.
As this is a new frame, sounds like the large size was tested and moulded out first with other sizes following which has lead to a delay.
Just have to wait to see how long shipping to UK is now...I've had all the bits for the build (apart from chain and carbon paste) for months.
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Looking forward to the build photos. I've considered this frame for the looks and the more relaxed geo but decided to go with the R-168. I've picked the size XS/49 (smallest) of R-168, and looking at the geo, the smallest size of R-177 is about a size up of the XS R-168.
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Looking forward to the build photos. I've considered this frame for the looks and the more relaxed geo but decided to go with the R-168. I've picked the size XS/49 (smallest) of R-168, and looking at the geo, the smallest size of R-177 is about a size up of the XS R-168.
One thing i like about this one is its significantly lighter than the 168. 150-200g just for the frame iirc, so maybe 250g around the frameset? Thats light enough to warrant doing a lightweight build and try to tip the scale at 16-17 lbs.
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Just saw this video released by VB: https://youtu.be/18x02QL1YFo
Frame: 915g
Fork: 375g
Seatpost: 125g
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That is incredibly impressive. It looks a bit like an sl7.
In total thats 1465. The r12 i have the frame is 1130-1150, plus 450 fork, plus 250 for the seatpost, so 1850. 385 gram difference. Put a pair of 38’s on there that maybe weigh 1300g, im saving 750g right there. Throw red etap instead of my force, 7.45 kg. Slowly approaching uci legal ;)
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FYI, my Yoeleo R11 frame (54cm, painted, with FD hanger) came in at 900g. Fork (uncut): 387g. Seatpost (without hardware): 139g.
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Someone had a similar build with r11 and udi2 and it was over 8kg. I wasnt overly fond of that weight. Its good to know the r11 is a competitive weight though. Im actually curious if the r11 or the 177 is a better choice, assuming weighs the same, id like to argue the 177 looks slightly more aerodynamic, but imo its up to personal choice and i like how the 177 looks.
How much does ur r11 weigh when kitted out?
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Well, this was a shock. My frame got shipped on the 13th and this morning has been delivered to my house in the UK so 3 days shipping and no import charges! It was using EMS HK.
Obviously the first thing to do was to weigh everything. It's a size 54 - M clear coat paint.
Frame (with derailleur hanger, FD mount, bottle cage screws, seat post clamp, grommets) = 1039g
Fork uncut = 384g
Seat post with all fittings = 211g
Handlebar (400 width, stem 100) = 311g
Everything looks very neat and tidy - can't wait to put it all together.
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Thats a bit on the heavier end. My 61 painted AND AERO was 1130 ish at 425-450g for the frame, so youre only at like a 150g bonus. Thats ashamed
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Congrats on the new frame! Enjoy the build and many happy rides!
PS: I regret posting the weight of my frame and build earlier. Weight is an easy metric to compare, but I don't think a few hundred grams (or even a few kgs) are very relevant to the joy of building and riding. Cycling should be accessible to all, and a focus on weight (and thus expense) probably scares away newcomers.
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Its probably being the weight weenie in me saying that.
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Finally finished my build. Very happy with the result!
First of all, everything from velobuild was excellent. There was only one slight problem with one of the holes for the front brake caliper - it was too short, so I had to use a shorter screw.
The internal cable routing was "interesting". Had three attempts but the cables were crossing over inside the head tube and were seizing up.
Got it in the end though.
Wasn't doing a weight weenie build at all, but the final bike as pictured is 7.5kg so 7.2kg without pedals. Happy with that!
It's one by, with a 42t SRAM chainring on a 105 crankset (wanted to keep this as I have an xcadey power meter). The rear derailleur is SRAM rival medium cage. Cassette is sroad 10-36. Brakes are juin tech F1 with SRAM rotors. Tyres are Goodyear F1 tubeless 28mm. There's loads of space there so looks like you'd get 32mm in with no problems. Shifters are SRAM force 11.
Wheels are from elite on AliExpress. 47mm deep.
Went for brown on black with the saddle, bar tape and tyres.
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Impressive weight!
Its nuce to have a build in the 16’s! Im curious why my bikes so heavy.
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Finally finished my build. Very happy with the result!
First of all, everything from velobuild was excellent. There was only one slight problem with one of the holes for the front brake caliper - it was too short, so I had to use a shorter screw.
The internal cable routing was "interesting". Had three attempts but the cables were crossing over inside the head tube and were seizing up.
Got it in the end though.
Wasn't doing a weight weenie build at all, but the final bike as pictured is 7.5kg so 7.2kg without pedals. Happy with that!
It's one by, with a 42t SRAM chainring on a 105 crankset (wanted to keep this as I have an xcadey power meter). The rear derailleur is SRAM rival medium cage. Cassette is sroad 10-36. Brakes are juin tech F1 with SRAM rotors. Tyres are Goodyear F1 tubeless 28mm. There's loads of space there so looks like you'd get 32mm in with no problems. Shifters are SRAM force 11.
Wheels are from elite on AliExpress. 47mm deep.
Went for brown on black with the saddle, bar tape and tyres.
How are the juin tech F1 brakes? I've been considering a 177 project but the price of 105 hydraulic brifters + calipers is crazy.
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How are the juin tech F1 brakes? I've been considering a 177 project but the price of 105 hydraulic brifters + calipers is crazy.
I haven't managed to ride the bike yet! Bad weather and groin strain.
The juin tech brakes look quality though including the packaging.
Problem is that the clearance is tiny even with the adjustment screw all the way out. They rub all the time. The back is fine but I can't sort the front out.
I can stop it rubbing with the top screw into the frame fully tightened and the bottom screw about 80% tight. When I fully tighten the bottom screw holding the caliper, it starts to rub again. Not sure if the screws holes in the fork are slightly out.
I also have some zrace calipers from AliExpress and the juin tech look far better quality. The zrace are only one sided too
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Fwiw my dengfu frame had a bit of rubbing in the beginning. It took 50-100 miles to wear the pads down i think. It made a squealing noise and it was so bad i didnt use the front brake for the rest of a ride.
I wouldnt recommend it but you could always sand down the pads to a desired amount.
Unless the calipers arent aligned straight? Are they very crooked? My dengfu one is maybe .25mm crooked, enough to notice, not enough to be a problem.
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I love the brown on black. I'm leaning to a VB-R-066, but I haven't ruled out the 177. I've got some questions for you!
Did you consider the 066? Was there somethig about the 177's geometry that sold you?
Is the bar/stem carbon?
What bottom bracket did you use?
What press tool did you use?
Can you describe how routing the rear brake line went?
Do you think hydraulic lines would be any harder to route than the Juin's mechanical housings?
Do you think that the lines would be easier to route if there were no deraileur cables to route?
Sorry to pepper you with a bunch of questions with my first Chinertown post.
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I love the brown on black. I'm leaning to a VB-R-066, but I haven't ruled out the 177. I've got some questions for you!
Did you consider the 066? Was there somethig about the 177's geometry that sold you?
Is the bar/stem carbon?
What bottom bracket did you use?
What press tool did you use?
Can you describe how routing the rear brake line went?
Do you think hydraulic lines would be any harder to route than the Juin's mechanical housings?
Do you think that the lines would be easier to route if there were no deraileur cables to route?
Sorry to pepper you with a bunch of questions with my first Chinertown post.
Hi, i love the brown on black too! The saddle and bar tape are both Prologo so i was hoping they would be the same shade of brown, but the saddle is a lot darker.
I didn't consider the VB-R-066 as i wanted the clean, integrated bar with full internal cable routing. Nothing specific geometry wise to be honest.
The bar and stem is carbon - looks great
I got a ZTTO BB86 24mm ceramic bottom bracket from Aliexpress. It threads in the middle.
The press tool was also from aliexpress - MUQZI Bicycle Bottom Bracket Install and Removal Tool. It has cups for all sorts of BBs
The routing of all of the cables through the frame was very easy, even with the BB installed. The difficult bit was then threading through the integrated bar. There was no cable guides installed in anything.
I had 3 attempts to get the handlebar installed on the fork - the first two i got the outer cables crossed over inside the head tube and when tightened down, it was impossible to thread through the inner cables so i had to reroute the cables through the handlebar so that they were in the correct order from headtube into handlebar.
I would assume that hydraulic brake lines would be exactly the same process and difficulty as the mechanical brake housing. Just keep the brake lines in the correct order when installing handlebar on to fork. Inside the frame is easy. I would have gone for hydraulic brakes but the price for shifters + calipers was crazy!
If you were to not use derailleur cables (electronic shifting), then the cabling will be easier through the handlebars.
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Hi, i love the brown on black too! The saddle and bar tape are both Prologo so i was hoping they would be the same shade of brown, but the saddle is a lot darker.
I didn't consider the VB-R-066 as i wanted the clean, integrated bar with full internal cable routing. Nothing specific geometry wise to be honest.
The bar and stem is carbon - looks great
I got a ZTTO BB86 24mm ceramic bottom bracket from Aliexpress. It threads in the middle.
The press tool was also from aliexpress - MUQZI Bicycle Bottom Bracket Install and Removal Tool. It has cups for all sorts of BBs
The routing of all of the cables through the frame was very easy, even with the BB installed. The difficult bit was then threading through the integrated bar. There was no cable guides installed in anything.
I had 3 attempts to get the handlebar installed on the fork - the first two i got the outer cables crossed over inside the head tube and when tightened down, it was impossible to thread through the inner cables so i had to reroute the cables through the handlebar so that they were in the correct order from headtube into handlebar.
I would assume that hydraulic brake lines would be exactly the same process and difficulty as the mechanical brake housing. Just keep the brake lines in the correct order when installing handlebar on to fork. Inside the frame is easy. I would have gone for hydraulic brakes but the price for shifters + calipers was crazy!
If you were to not use derailleur cables (electronic shifting), then the cabling will be easier through the handlebars.
Thank you very much. Most helpful!
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Been out for a ride - the bike is great!
Very fast and comfy. The brakes are excellent, but bear in mind I've never used any sort of disc brakes before.
I'm sure hydraulic brakes would be better but I'm impressed with the juin tech.
First time I've used deep wheels too so I definitely noticed the wind a couple of times.
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Hey o/ first time posting here. I just finished my bike build and want to share some of my experience here. I wrote this review for the Velobuild website, but I'm pasting it here too. Hopefully that can be useful to someone else :)
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I've recently finished building my VB-R-177 (Size XS) with Shimano 105 hydraulic disc brake bike, Fulcrum Racing DB7 650b wheels and Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tubeless tyres. The bike is perfect for short people.
The frame came well packaged and in good condition. There were no visible marks or damage to the frame.
The frame, however, took a lot longer to be shipped than initially agreed on. So, if you're in a hurry, this may not be the frame for you.
With that being said, the frame is really good and I was impressed. The quality of the carbon seems good with no sharp bits inside. The paint job was on point and exactly how I specified it to be. The frame came with almost (more about it below) everything you need to build it other than the groupset, cables and things you expect to not come with a frame.
I said the frame came with almost all parts because after assembling the headset, the handlebar were not turning smoothly. I had to buy some very thin (0.4mm) spacers to go between the top headset bearing and the compression ring to lift the headset a little bit and don't scrape the frame. Other than that, the build went without any issues.
For the integrated cockpit and fully integrated cables, I do recommend having a cable routing tool. I also used a small file to open some internal holes in the handlebar because the hydraulic hose and the shifter cables were too big for it. As long as you're patience, and route the cables through the handlebar FIRST before putting it on the bike, you should be OK. No, really, route your cables in the handlebar before assembling it to the bike, trust me on this. Think it through. This order is not the same as a more "traditional" bike build.
Tip: If you're buying a shifting cable set, make sure you buy one with a very long cable. In this bike, the outer housings goes all the way from the shifter until the derailler.
Tip2: You can buy silicone seatpost rings that will make the transition between the seatpost and frame a lot nicer, and prevent water ingress.
After going through the pain of routing the fully integrated cables I think the end result is worth it. The bike looks amazing. It's very light (between 7-8kg) even though I didn't buy any weight savings components.
I recently finished a 120km ride and the bike had no issues.
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Hi, very nice bike.
I've put another 80 miles into mine and I think it's great. No problems whatsoever.
Where do you get the silicone seat post ring from?
Thanks
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I've recently finished building my VB-R-177 (Size XS) with Shimano 105 hydraulic disc brake bike, Fulcrum Racing DB7 650b wheels and Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tubeless tyres. The bike is perfect for short people.
Nice build! Was wondering if they've got some very long chainstays, but then I realized that it's fitted with a set of 650b. What made you choose the 650b wheels?
If I may know, what's your height? I was considering this frame before I've decided to get the size XS of R-168 primarily due to the geometry -- the XS of 177 about a size up of the XS 168. After rode hundreds of km on my 168, I now believe that could afford one size up (or a longer stem).
Thanks.
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Hi, very nice bike.
I've put another 80 miles into mine and I think it's great. No problems whatsoever.
Where do you get the silicone seat post ring from?
Thanks
I got mine from Amazon, named "IKAAR Silicone Cover Bike Seat Post Ring Waterproof Dust Seatpost Protective Case Universal Mountain MTB Road Bike Accessories Pack of 4".
It's cheap but works great.
I think you can buy the ones from Fizik too, but couldn't find a black one.
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Nice build! Was wondering if they've got some very long chainstays, but then I realized that it's fitted with a set of 650b. What made you choose the 650b wheels?
If I may know, what's your height? I was considering this frame before I've decided to get the size XS of R-168 primarily due to the geometry -- the XS of 177 about a size up of the XS 168. After rode hundreds of km on my 168, I now believe that could afford one size up (or a longer stem).
Thanks.
I've tried other road bikes and it's not doable for my foot to reach the floor because of the height of the top tube. The 650b helps in that regards because the bike sits lower to the ground. It also means the pedals are close to the ground, so I can't take a sharp turn while pedaling, but that's OK.
And, I'm about 155cm. The size of the bike fits me well.
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Hi Ivor,
Bike looks amazing! Just waiting to build up my velobuild that I'll post about on here once done. I've seen you ordered wheels from Elitewheels. How long did they take to arrive once dispatched, I've seen they've posted mine via XDB so not sure on timescales. Velobuild frame turned up in less than 10 days, very impressed :)
Jake
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Hi Ivor,
Bike looks amazing! Just waiting to build up my velobuild that I'll post about on here once done. I've seen you ordered wheels from Elitewheels. How long did they take to arrive once dispatched, I've seen they've posted mine via XDB so not sure on timescales. Velobuild frame turned up in less than 10 days, very impressed :)
Jake
Hi Jake,
I think the shipping was quick once the wheels were made. Probably less than two weeks. It took around 4 weeks for the wheels to be made however, so in total around 6 weeks.
I ordered the frame from velobuild and the wheels from elite on the same day and had the wheels delivered about 10 weeks before the frame!
I love the wheels - I upgraded to lighter spokes for an extra $50. They are roughly 1500g for the pair. Now set up as tubeless.
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Been out for a ride - the bike is great!
Very fast and comfy. The brakes are excellent, but bear in mind I've never used any sort of disc brakes before.
I'm sure hydraulic brakes would be better but I'm impressed with the juin tech.
First time I've used deep wheels too so I definitely noticed the wind a couple of times.
Looks really great! Congratulations!
How is it holding up so far?
I am considering to get this frame.
How is the seatpost? Does it slide down out of position when riding?
Also how is the stiffness of the button bracket area?
Thanks for any response you can give.
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Looks really great! Congratulations!
How is it holding up so far?
I am considering to get this frame.
How is the seatpost? Does it slide down out of position when riding?
Also how is the stiffness of the button bracket area?
Thanks for any response you can give.
The bike has been great so far!
Haven't done many rides...maybe 10 x 40 miles, but it's very comfy (28mm tubeless tyres help with that).
The seatpost hasn't slipped at all. The good thing is that it's a standard round seatpost, so can be replaced if you wanted to. You could save a little bit of weight.
As far as the bottom bracket stiffness goes - I'm not really qualified to say! I've only been riding since Covid and the only other bike I've ridden is a 2012 Giant Defy, so I haven't got much to compare to. Plus I wouldn't say that i am the most powerful rider and i've never tried sprinting or trying to dance on the pedals going up hill.
I love it, and it always gets questions from other riders when out and about so it looks great too.
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The bike has been great so far!
Haven't done many rides...maybe 10 x 40 miles, but it's very comfy (28mm tubeless tyres help with that).
The seatpost hasn't slipped at all. The good thing is that it's a standard round seatpost, so can be replaced if you wanted to. You could save a little bit of weight.
As far as the bottom bracket stiffness goes - I'm not really qualified to say! I've only been riding since Covid and the only other bike I've ridden is a 2012 Giant Defy, so I haven't got much to compare to. Plus I wouldn't say that i am the most powerful rider and i've never tried sprinting or trying to dance on the pedals going up hill.
I love it, and it always gets questions from other riders when out and about so it looks great too.
Ivor I just received mine and with the new stem/handlebar combo, the top cap is made out of carbon and does not really secure anywhere, just the bolt seems to hold it in place. Did you have a hard time with that? There is a little dent underneath that is very small and seems to align with an opening in the stem but there is no contact to secure.
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Ivor I just received mine and with the new stem/handlebar combo, the top cap is made out of carbon and does not really secure anywhere, just the bolt seems to hold it in place. Did you have a hard time with that? There is a little dent underneath that is very small and seems to align with an opening in the stem but there is no contact to secure.
Hi there, my top cap is thin metal. It screws down into the expander plug.
The handlebar and stem on the velobuild website photos is different to the one piece handlebar/stem that i got.
Here's a couple of photos (bit blurry).
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Mine is the version where the stem and handlebar are separated, also having a hard time getting the cables neutral, they keep forcing the steerer left, tried to run the cable twice so far.
http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2021-new-carbon-handlebar-with-separate-stem
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Currently building up this week. Chameleon purple and blue.
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Currently building up this week. Chameleon purple and blue.
Beautiful!
What is the size of your frame?
Did you get to weigh the frame, fork and seat post separately?
Thanks!
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Beautiful!
What is the size of your frame?
Did you get to weigh the frame, fork and seat post separately?
Thanks!
My first impressions video on the 177 will be uploaded to YouTube later this week.
I ordered a size M.
Weight including both derailleur hangers, plastic grommets, and seatpost clamp is 1044 grams.
When you remove the hardware and paint then yup the weight is sub 1000 grams. Makes sense for T1000 carbon fiber.
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Alrighty...so my 177 is basically finished. Just have to wrap the bars.
Some quick tidbits for anyone considering the separate stem/bar combo:
1. The stem I ordered is a 120mm, but it actually measures closer to 125mm if you measure it like a traditional stem. VeloBuild measures the stem from the center of the compression bolt to the actual center point (half-way point) of the top section of the bars...rather than where the faceplate intersects. Dengfu does the same thing too and I suspect other Chinese brands do the same.
2. Speaking of handlebars...there are no handlebar specs on the website, but I measured the reach of the handlebars to be around 90mm. Handlebar drop is about 125mm
Just wanted others to be aware for comparing bike fits. Pics coming later today. its 20 degrees F here in chicago :(
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Just finished building mine too, the only problem is one of fork rivets for the brake caliper was not straight/parallel. Had to send to a mechanic to get a workaround, he filled some washers to make the caliper straight and as parallel as possible, still rubs when pedaling out of the saddle, trying to get a new fork from Velobuild. Lets see how it goes.
Overall the bike is beautiful, really like the new handlebar, just think the topcap made of carbon should fit better than stem, there are too many round edges.
Alrighty...so my 177 is basically finished. Just have to wrap the bars.
Some quick tidbits for anyone considering the separate stem/bar combo:
1. The stem I ordered is a 120mm, but it actually measures closer to 125mm if you measure it like a traditional stem. VeloBuild measures the stem from the center of the compression bolt to the actual center point (half-way point) of the top section of the bars...rather than where the faceplate intersects. Dengfu does the same thing too and I suspect other Chinese brands do the same.
2. Speaking of handlebars...there are no handlebar specs on the website, but I measured the reach of the handlebars to be around 90mm. Handlebar drop is about 125mm
Just wanted others to be aware for comparing bike fits. Pics coming later today. its 20 degrees F here in chicago :(
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Just finished building mine too, the only problem is one of fork rivets for the brake caliper was not straight/parallel. Had to send to a mechanic to get a workaround, he filled some washers to make the caliper straight and as parallel as possible, still rubs when pedaling out of the saddle, trying to get a new fork from Velobuild. Lets see how it goes.
Overall the bike is beautiful, really like the new handlebar, just think the topcap made of carbon should fit better than stem, there are too many round edges.
I noticed that myself too last night went installing the front caliper to the fork. Even with using a metal rotor centering tool I still had to manually hold the caliper in place when tightening, in order to prevent brake rub.
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Final weight without bottle cages, computer mount, or pedals: 7.6kg
Difficult to tell in the photos but the paint is chameleon blue and purple. Blurple.
Size M
120mm Stem
400mm Handlebars
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@patliean1
Bike looks fantastic, be sure to let us know how it rides (perhaps when it warms up ;D)
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Final weight without bottle cages, computer mount, or pedals: 7.6kg
Difficult to tell in the photos but the paint is chameleon blue and purple. Blurple.
Size M
120mm Stem
400mm Handlebars
Take my money!!!!
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First Impressions video is live. VeloBuild also sent me an EPS latex molding of the frame, as well as a broken down cut up carbon frame to inspect the insides of the frame. I discuss this in the video. Pretty cool!
https://youtu.be/qZ4v5QjYeAg (https://youtu.be/qZ4v5QjYeAg)
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First Impressions video is live. VeloBuild also sent me an EPS latex molding of the frame, as well as a broken down cut up carbon frame to inspect the insides of the frame. I discuss this in the video. Pretty cool!
https://youtu.be/qZ4v5QjYeAg (https://youtu.be/qZ4v5QjYeAg)
Great video! I did my first ride with the 177 and I really liked the feeling of the ride compared to the VB-099. The 177 feels more nimble/agile and compliant over uneven roads, considering most of my rides are over bad tarmac I really liked the change. As for the fork issue with the rivet not being parallel, Velobuild was nice enough to send me a new one, once I get the new fork I will update the ride experience.
My bike weighs 8.1KG with 105 Groupset and Elite DT240 Wheels (38MM)
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Nice decals!! VeloBuild has been great to work with.
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Thanks for the video! Nice to see our own Snacks commenting. ;)
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Great video! I did my first ride with the 177 and I really liked the feeling of the ride compared to the VB-099. The 177 feels more nimble/agile and compliant over uneven roads, considering most of my rides are over bad tarmac I really liked the change. As for the fork issue with the rivet not being parallel, Velobuild was nice enough to send me a new one, once I get the new fork I will update the ride experience.
My bike weighs 8.1KG with 105 Groupset and Elite DT240 Wheels (38MM)
Where did you get that rubber seatpost seal/cover?
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Where did you get that rubber seatpost seal/cover?
Easy to find on aliexpress
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLyaygo
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Thanks for sharing your projects!
Can I compare the frame sizes to a Scott Addict?
i.e. would size M fit for a body height ~ 175 cm and size L for ~ 185 cm?
Do you know why there are two velobuild websites?
velobuild.com and velobuildmall.com
Is one of them a fake/scam website - where should i order?
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Final weight without bottle cages, computer mount, or pedals: 7.6kg
Difficult to tell in the photos but the paint is chameleon blue and purple. Blurple.
Size M
120mm Stem
400mm Handlebars
How is the 177 ride experience so far?
How is the stiffness of the separate stem and handlebar setup?
I have notice the Velobuild HB011 integrated handlebar flexes too much especially on the drops. I wonder if anybody observed this same issue with that handlebar?
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How is the 177 ride experience so far?
How is the stiffness of the separate stem and handlebar setup?
I have notice the Velobuild HB011 integrated handlebar flexes too much especially on the drops. I wonder if anybody observed this same issue with that handlebar?
Sadly Winter has finally hit Chicago. Only have been able to to put about 125mi/200km on the bike.
First Impressions: Coming from an Allez Sprint as my primary bike (which personally isn't as harsh as people say) I was surprised how comfortable and compliant the ride quality is. Chicago has notoriously bad roads so it's something you're always aware of. You can hear the bad pavement with the 177, you just don't really "feel" them. For comparison sake, I am running the Hyper 65s and GP5000s on both my Allez Sprint and 177 (for now).
The separate handlebar/stem combo is plenty stiff enough. I'm not a sprinter so my max watt is like 1000w, maybe 1100w on my best day. No flexing as far I can tell. One thing to note with the separate handlebar/stem, is that getting the compression plug and expander bolt to properly take up all the slack/play in the fork has been tricky. Perhaps I just need to cut the steerer a little shorter to allow the dust cap to further compress without crushing it.
Lastly, I did order some 38mm deep wheels from VeloBuild. They should be here hopefully today or tomorrow. Curious to see how much they weigh.
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Sadly Winter has finally hit Chicago. Only have been able to to put about 125mi/200km on the bike.
First Impressions: Coming from an Allez Sprint as my primary bike (which personally isn't as harsh as people say) I was surprised how comfortable and compliant the ride quality is. Chicago has notoriously bad roads so it's something you're always aware of. You can hear the bad pavement with the 177, you just don't really "feel" them. For comparison sake, I am running the Hyper 65s and GP5000s on both my Allez Sprint and 177 (for now).
The separate handlebar/stem combo is plenty stiff enough. I'm not a sprinter so my max watt is like 1000w, maybe 1100w on my best day. No flexing as far I can tell. One thing to note with the separate handlebar/stem, is that getting the compression plug and expander bolt to properly take up all the slack/play in the fork has been tricky. Perhaps I just need to cut the steerer a little shorter to allow the dust cap to further compress without crushing it.
Lastly, I did order some 38mm deep wheels from VeloBuild. They should be here hopefully today or tomorrow. Curious to see how much they weigh.
Thanks for the feedback. Looking at the stack in the 177 geometry chart I reckon most tall people will have to order extra spacers if they are building this as an endurance / comfort kinda build. Roughly measuring from the floor to handlebars I foresee needing extra spacers to replicate my current stack on the 099/TT-X21 frame.
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Thanks for sharing your projects!
Can I compare the frame sizes to a Scott Addict?
i.e. would size M fit for a body height ~ 175 cm and size L for ~ 185 cm?
Do you know why there are two velobuild websites?
velobuild.com and velobuildmall.com
Is one of them a fake/scam website - where should i order?
You can try open three browsers side by side with the geometry chart of both bike frames and your current bike geometry chart to compare all three. Also put into consideration any setbacks of the seat post when calculating the reach / top tube length.
Velobuild actually owns both websites and I noticed if you create a user account in one of the sites it actually works on both sites automatically and you can track your order on both sites.
However you can email Chris "chris@velobuild.com" to double confirm.
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You can try open three browsers side by side with the geometry chart of both bike frames and your current bike geometry chart to compare all three. Also put into consideration any setbacks of the seat post when calculating the reach / top tube length.
Its´s easier to compare at geometrygeeks.bike
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Can anyone compare what the geo is like? Is this the SL7 clone?
Hoping this is my answer for a fast road racer but with clearance for 32s!
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Thanks for the feedback. Looking at the stack in the 177 geometry chart I reckon most tall people will have to order extra spacers if they are building this as an endurance / comfort kinda build. Roughly measuring from the floor to handlebars I foresee needing extra spacers to replicate my current stack on the 099/TT-X21 frame.
The front end is very low/agressive. On my VB99 frame I had one 2MM spacer, with the 177 I'm riding a 5MM and 2MM.
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. One thing to note with the separate handlebar/stem, is that getting the compression plug and expander bolt to properly take up all the slack/play in the fork has been tricky. Perhaps I just need to cut the steerer a little shorter to allow the dust cap to further compress without crushing it.
The cap doesn't sit flush with the stem, thats why its hard. I was considering buying a Deda Superbox stem because of that. Just waiting for the new fork to decide what to do.
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Hey Everyone,
My intentions are not to spam this thread with my photos. However, I finally received my VeloBuild 38mm wheels after a two week delay courtesy of my local postal service :( . The Hyper 65s I originally had on the 177 are for my Winspace T1500 which I will be building up this weekend.
1. They are pretty heavy. 1778g for the pair. For comparison sake, my Winspace Hyper 65s weigh 1610g. Lighter yet significantly deeper wheels, but also significantly more expensive. You could buy three pairs of VB wheels for the price of Hypers. Just something to consider...
2. Specs are tubeless clinchers with the tubeless tape already installed. 25mm external, 19mm internal. The wheels come with valve extenders, but sadly no extra spokes or tubeless valves. Standard Novatec hubs. I've used these hubs on my Yoeleo wheels and they are perfectly fine.
3. This is the final "form" for the build. Without power meter pedals, carbon bottle cage, or Garmin mount...final weight is 8kg
I'm working on my official video review of the build, but for the price and weight I have to say it's a lovely deal. The light weight carbon of the 177 offsets the heavy wheels in my opinion, so basically you're getting a big-brand quality frameset, handlebars, and wheels for under $1000. Add your favorite groupset and you're looking at a setup that would probably cost almost double in price from one the main brands out there.
PS - the gold chain is from OG-Evkin. I probably own about 8-10 different components from them. They offer solid value for the price.
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Wau really nice colour
and the golden chain looks awesome
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Hey Everyone,
My intentions are not to spam this thread with my photos. However, I finally received my VeloBuild 38mm wheels after a two week delay courtesy of my local postal service :( . The Hyper 65s I originally had on the 177 are for my Winspace T1500 which I will be building up this weekend.
1. They are pretty heavy. 1778g for the pair. For comparison sake, my Winspace Hyper 65s weigh 1610g. Lighter yet significantly deeper wheels, but also significantly more expensive. You could buy three pairs of VB wheels for the price of Hypers. Just something to consider...
2. Specs are tubeless clinchers with the tubeless tape already installed. 25mm external, 19mm internal. The wheels come with valve extenders, but sadly no extra spokes or tubeless valves. Standard Novatec hubs. I've used these hubs on my Yoeleo wheels and they are perfectly fine.
3. This is the final "form" for the build. Without power meter pedals, carbon bottle cage, or Garmin mount...final weight is 8kg
I'm working on my official video review of the build, but for the price and weight I have to say it's a lovely deal. The light weight carbon of the 177 offsets the heavy wheels in my opinion, so basically you're getting a big-brand quality frameset, handlebars, and wheels for under $1000. Add your favorite groupset and you're looking at a setup that would probably cost almost double in price from one the main brands out there.
PS - the gold chain is from OG-Evkin. I probably own about 8-10 different components from them. They offer solid value for the price.
What bar and stem setup are you running?
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What bar and stem setup are you running?
VB's separate handlebar and stem. 400mm and 120mm
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@patliean1
You mentioned you are 6ft and you picked M. I'd like your input since I'm 5'11" and Chris says L.
I know this goes person by person, with more measures like arm length, trunk, flexibility, intended usage, but I don't have a bike fit and I can't get that in the short term
My inseam is 83cm (32.7")
I guess I'm between sizes: I have ridden 54 and 56. I think I feel more comfy in my 54 (I notice it when I swap my bikes in the trainer, that the 56's reach is longer, ~17mm). However, I don't use the 54 outside anymore, and the geometry is definitely different.
I only have access to the 54cm geometry and, compared to the VR--R-177 (Large) the stack is 4mm higher and the reach 4mm shorter.
I don't race, I ride alone or in group rides, anywhere between 30-37KPH (19-24MPH). Mostly flat or short hills and 95% asphalt
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Take the smaller frame. Its impossible to make a larger bine fit smaller. You can always get a longer stem.
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If you haven’t had a professional bike, then a size L makes the most sense. I’m 6ft tall with a 6’3” wingspan and a short torso. Not sure of my inseam but long legs too.
Because I’m trying to maximize being low and aero for racing purposes, although the 177 will be for CX not road racing, taking a smaller frame with a longer stem is pretty typical. That’s why I chose the separate handlebar and stem combo versus the integrated. I needed the reach.
Now in your case it sounds like a size L will be best. I’m sure Chris has recommended hundreds of customers so I tend to believe he has your best interest in mind based on the limited info provided. And if you still aren’t sure the you essentially have two options:
Option #1 - Bike Geometry Comparison Chart
Option #2 - Bike Fit :)
Let me know what you decide
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If you have not had a bike fit, take the 54. You can always ride a bike that's too small. A bike that's too big will have too much reach. It will be uncomfortable andbmost likely cause pain.take the 54.
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Thank you guys for your input.
I'm doing the geometry check and I find the L very close to the "54" bike I had previously.
All lower measurements are almost identical:
Same chainstay (410), 2mm shorter Front-Centre (596 vs 598 in VBR177), BB drop is 69.5 vs 70, same fork offset (45mm)
Angles are very similar: Head tube (73 both), Seat tube (73.5 vs 73.3)
Reach in my "54" bike is 391mm vs 395mm
The main difference is the head tube (170mm vs 155mm in VBR177) which yields to a higher stack in my old bike (570 vs 556) and explains the 4mm reach difference.
Am I wrong saying that the difference here comes down to one spacer?
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Regarding the other bike (I don't have the geometry), I took manual measurements, giving longer seat tube, but slacker angle (~72)... Plus a shorter Head tube (160) gives a longer reach (I remeasured today at 405mm), The stack is actually 560mm.
I have ridden this 56 bike for 4 years. I have played with the saddle position, it feels more aggressive, and have had 7hour rides on it. But yeah, upon changing one to the other I feel the difference on the reach
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The VB-R-177 M has significantly lower stack (536 vs 556), Reach is not compromised (392), so it has a smaller head tube (135mm) and the wheelbase is reduced. The seat tube is also 20mm shorter.
Here I'm afraid I need more flexibility.
I'm going with the L
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Thank you guys for your input.
I'm doing the geometry check and I find the L very close to the "54" bike I had previously.
All lower measurements are almost identical:
Same chainstay (410), 2mm shorter Front-Centre (596 vs 598 in VBR177), BB drop is 69.5 vs 70, same fork offset (45mm)
Angles are very similar: Head tube (73 both), Seat tube (73.5 vs 73.3)
Reach in my "54" bike is 391mm vs 395mm
The main difference is the head tube (170mm vs 155mm in VBR177) which yields to a higher stack in my old bike (570 vs 556) and explains the 4mm reach difference.
Am I wrong saying that the difference here comes down to one spacer?
---------------
Regarding the other bike (I don't have the geometry), I took manual measurements, giving longer seat tube, but slacker angle (~72)... Plus a shorter Head tube (160) gives a longer reach (I remeasured today at 405mm), The stack is actually 560mm.
I have ridden this 56 bike for 4 years. I have played with the saddle position, it feels more aggressive, and have had 7hour rides on it. But yeah, upon changing one to the other I feel the difference on the reach
----
The VB-R-177 M has significantly lower stack (536 vs 556), Reach is not compromised (392), so it has a smaller head tube (135mm) and the wheelbase is reduced. The seat tube is also 20mm shorter.
Here I'm afraid I need more flexibility.
I'm going with the L
L sounds like the right choice for you if you previously ride a size 56. You can probably request for a zero setback seatpost if you are concerned about the reach. Additional 20mm or 30mm spacers may be helpful too since the 177 has a relatively lower stack in all sizes. If the handlebar stem you choose is at a negative angle (e.g. the HB011) it will cancel out the spacers and lower the stack, so watch out for that too.
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Personally, I'm happy the Far East brands are hopping on the bandwagon to produce more "long and low" bikes. Granted I know this geometry does not work for everyone, but having to run a 130mm or even a 140mm stem just to achieve the optimal bike fit (while being low/aero enough) is not ideal.
It's getting to the point that 54cm frames are almost more so traditional 56cm.
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Man, This hits home. Im currently running a 140mm stem on a bike with 393 reach. I typically ride a 55/56, but after looking at the geometry charts it makes me feel like I need to get the XL as it’s -10mm shorter. Id still need a 130mm that they don’t offer :(
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Man, This hits home. Im currently running a 140mm stem on a bike with 393 reach. I typically ride a 55/56, but after looking at the geometry charts it makes me feel like I need to get the XL as it’s -10mm shorter. Id still need a 130mm that they don’t offer :(
Having dealt with several Chinese brands now, let me tell you that how these brands measure stem length varies wildly. This is regardless of integrated or separate handlebars.
Exhibit A: This is my separate bar/stem combo on my 177. I ordered the 120mm length. As you can see...it measures closer to 130mm.
With a traditional stem, you would measure length from the center of the compression bolt to the where the stem meets the faceplate. VeloBuild however measures from center of the compression bolt to the center point on "the tops". And because aero handlebars are much thicker/wider than standard round/tube bars...this effects overall stem length measurements.
I say all of this to say that every single stem/handlebar I've ordered from these brands have ran at least 8-12mm LONGER than the advertised length. Good if you need the extra reach like me. Bad if you are already on the limits.
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I actually watched your youtube video on this and it kind of gave me hope! Now I just need to see if I have the stones to try the XL vs the L...
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I actually watched your youtube video on this and it kind of gave me hope! Now I just need to see if I have the stones to try the XL vs the L...
My Winspace integrated handlebars are listed as size 125mm...and I measured them myself at almost 145mm
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Hello guys,
I expect to receive my 177 in the next few weeks (already in the plane to uk).
I have a stupid question….
Which torques have you been using for the different bolts of the bike?
Thanks
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Hello guys,
I expect to receive my 177 in the next few weeks (already in the plane to uk).
I have a stupid question….
Which torques have you been using for the different bolts of the bike?
Thanks
I'd also like to know what torque settings people are using. If someone could fill in the blanks and/or verify my assumptions it would be greatly appreciated:
Shifter Bar Clamps - ??Nm
Steerer Tube Compression Plug - 8Nm
Steerer Tube Top Cap - ??Nm
Steer Tube Stem Clamp - 6Nm
Computer Mount - ??Nm
Front Brake Calliper - ??Nm
Front Axle - 10Nm
Front Dropout Aluminium Insert - ??Nm
Seat Post Wedge - 6Nm
Seat Clamp - 6Nm
Front Derailleur Braze On Mount - ??Nm
Rear Derailleur - ??Nm
Rear Brake Calliper - ??Nm
Rear Axle - 10Nm
Rear Dropout Aluminium Insert - ??Nm
I think that would cover everything, however if there are others you think would be helpful please add them to the list :)
Thanks in advance!
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My 177 build video is live. Super thrilled with the final results
YouTube Search: My VeloBuild 177 Is FINISHED!
https://youtu.be/JIsF_ropxME (https://youtu.be/JIsF_ropxME)
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Man that custom paint is killer… I didn’t want to splurge for something like that but it really is a game changer over the matte/gloss black!
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There is an over abundance of matte black frames in the market and on the road. Might as well be different…
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Looks good indeed, is it blue chameleon glossy ?
I am awaiting a blue chameleon matte myself, I am wondering if I should have taken the glossy one but I guess both should be nice :)
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The matte blue chameleon is just as nice!
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Glossy blue and purple chameleon. BLURPLE.
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Hi Guys,
After a long wait, I manage to get my 177 built up
Just to share with you guys the final build.
Frame size S
Integrated handlebar @ 90/400
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow Saddle with Carbon Rails
Wheels: Yeoleo C50 Sat wheels with DT swiss 240 exp hubs (changed to 60 Teeth ratchet)
Tyres: Conti GP5000 25mm with revoloop 60mm tubes
Groupset: Shimano DI2 R8100 12 speed
Pedals: Dura ace
Overall weight witht pedals: 7.33kg
Absolutely love the weight of this thing and the acceleration of this is crazy
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Looks great! Love the two-tone paint!
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Anyone use their 177 for cyclocross or adventure riding?
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Update on the headset issue, the expander kept coming off and I thought it was the expander. But after changing the expander I realized it was the stem. The screws were coming loose and pulling the expander out, they use sleeve like screws for the stem which I don´t like, I used some thread lock and the problem went away.
The frame is very good but the handlebar/stem needs some work, wanted to buy the old integrated handlebar but they no longer sell those.
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I'm looking to pick up one of these frames. Does anyone know what the stem angle is for the separate bar/stem option?
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-6 degree
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Anyone use their 177 for cyclocross or adventure riding?
Doesn't sound like it? Wonder how much further beyond 32c you could push it with this frame and some tires with tread.
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-6 degree
What is your review on the separate bar/stem combo? I am thinking about purchasing only the stem from velobuild to use it with a different handlebar.
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What is your review on the separate bar/stem combo? I am thinking about purchasing only the stem from velobuild to use it with a different handlebar.
No complaints. They just work. I'm not super strong, can put out maybe like 1100w on a good day, but I haven't noticed any flex.
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Have you guys fitted 28 tyres in this one?? Still awaiting a pair of wheels from Covas! Hope to show you in few weeks the final product!
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I have 28mm tyres on mine and there's loads of room to spare. The spec sheet says 32mm will fit and it does look like that to me.
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Hi Guys,
After a long wait, I manage to get my 177 built up
Just to share with you guys the final build.
Frame size S
Integrated handlebar @ 90/400
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow Saddle with Carbon Rails
Wheels: Yeoleo C50 Sat wheels with DT swiss 240 exp hubs (changed to 60 Teeth ratchet)
Tyres: Conti GP5000 25mm with revoloop 60mm tubes
Groupset: Shimano DI2 R8100 12 speed
Pedals: Dura ace
Overall weight witht pedals: 7.33kg
Absolutely love the weight of this thing and the acceleration of this is crazy
Wow! That's the best executed open mould build I've ever seen
If you're in Singapore/Malaysia and aren't camera shy, would you consider appearing on an Oompa Loompa Cycling (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kJApCXXHHAlZvEbylO9cg) video? The world needs to see your build up close and personal!
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Wow! That's the best executed open mould build I've ever seen
If you're in Singapore/Malaysia and aren't camera shy, would you consider appearing on an Oompa Loompa Cycling (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kJApCXXHHAlZvEbylO9cg) video? The world needs to see your build up close and personal!
These videos are great! Just started watching them ;D
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Wow! That's the best executed open mould build I've ever seen
If you're in Singapore/Malaysia and aren't camera shy, would you consider appearing on an Oompa Loompa Cycling (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kJApCXXHHAlZvEbylO9cg) video? The world needs to see your build up close and personal!
I wanna come to Singapore too hahaha
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-6 degree
Would you be able to double check that? Chris has been telling me it's 17 degrees, but if it is in fact 6 degrees that would put be solidly on a 52 vs right on the edge of a 52/54.
Also, has anyone know of any aftermarket stems that would work with this frame? It looks like some people are using FSA ACR stems on their 168 frames, but I wasn't sure those would work on the 177 frames (I suppose they should work since both frames use the same bars).
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Would you be able to double check that? Chris has been telling me it's 17 degrees, but if it is in fact 6 degrees that would put be solidly on a 52 vs right on the edge of a 52/54.
Also, has anyone know of any aftermarket stems that would work with this frame? It looks like some people are using FSA ACR stems on their 168 frames, but I wasn't sure those would work on the 177 frames (I suppose they should work since both frames use the same bars).
I was told the separate stem/bar combo was -6 upon order, but personally I think it's closer to -12.
For reference I run -17 stems on both my Yeoleo and Allez Sprint and visually the stem angle on my VB 177 is close but not quite the same angle.
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I am waiting to receive the Deda superbox. I will update this post once i receive it.
Would you be able to double check that? Chris has been telling me it's 17 degrees, but if it is in fact 6 degrees that would put be solidly on a 52 vs right on the edge of a 52/54.
Also, has anyone know of any aftermarket stems that would work with this frame? It looks like some people are using FSA ACR stems on their 168 frames, but I wasn't sure those would work on the 177 frames (I suppose they should work since both frames use the same bars).
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Put in an order earlier this week for a small with a bare carbon finish and a few extra stems. Planning to do my own paint job.
What's everyone's experience with processing times to shipping? From what I can tell they're all over the place.
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Final weight without bottle cages, computer mount, or pedals: 7.6kg
Difficult to tell in the photos but the paint is chameleon blue and purple. Blurple.
Size M
120mm Stem
400mm Handlebars
Really nice! I noticed you are using a full mechanical groupset, how difficult was it to route the cables through the velobuild bar/stem?
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Really nice! I noticed you are using a full mechanical groupset, how difficult was it to route the cables through the velobuild bar/stem?
It's never easy.
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Well, just patlien1 sold another blurple 177, stoked to jam some 32s on it!
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Well, just patlien1 sold another blurple 177, stoked to jam some 32s on it!
Wicked! Can't wait to see the build!
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Wicked! Can't wait to see the build!
won't be too exciting since its just taking my old hydro rival 22 off my old bike, but stoked none-the-less! L frame with a 120 (hoping it's the 125mm stem you talked about) should look super dope.
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Turns out the headset still showing play, the only solution is removing the carbon topcap and using a traditional top cap (which leave the stem open for water/dirt). I bought a Stem from Deda, the Superbox, hoping to be the final solution, but the compression ring is a bit taller than the one from Velobuild, I assembled the stem anyway. In the picture you can see the space between the headsetcup and the frame
Deda might have a solution, but I´m too tire to disassemble the HS, would anyone know the bearing and cup size of the headset upper part?
Email from Deda:
- The height of the upper bearing shell (our headset features 8,7mm upper bearing shell height, but we can check if there is solution for your frame).
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Turns out the headset still showing play, the only solution is removing the carbon topcap and using a traditional top cap (which leave the stem open for water/dirt). I bought a Stem from Deda, the Superbox, hoping to be the final solution, but the compression ring is a bit taller than the one from Velobuild, I assembled the stem anyway. In the picture you can see the space between the headsetcup and the frame
Deda might have a solution, but I´m too tire to disassemble the HS, would anyone know the bearing and cup size of the headset upper part?
Email from Deda:
- The height of the upper bearing shell (our headset features 8,7mm upper bearing shell height, but we can check if there is solution for your frame).
I am waiting for the solution. I purchasd the superbox stem, but haven't installed it.
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Wow! That's the best executed open mould build I've ever seen
If you're in Singapore/Malaysia and aren't camera shy, would you consider appearing on an Oompa Loompa Cycling (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2kJApCXXHHAlZvEbylO9cg) video? The world needs to see your build up close and personal!
Haha. I do see his videos.
Yes I'm based in Singapore
Currently not able to ride as i injured my toe ligament, need months to heal.
Maybe once I'm healed, we can go for a ride if you want to see my bike
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Hi, guys,
Has anyone experienced delays with Velobuild?
I placed and order mid January. The frame is 177 with paint and decals.
They offered to customize the wheels as per my liking (Bitex 312 and SapimCX) at an extra cost. Which might be the main delay.
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Hi, guys,
Has anyone experienced delays with Velobuild?
I placed and order mid January. The frame is 177 with paint and decals.
They offered to customize the wheels as per my liking (Bitex 312 and SapimCX) at an extra cost. Which might be the main delay.
What was the turn around time they quoted you when placing your order for the frame, paint, and custom wheels?
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They didn't set any ETA. I ordered one week before Chinese New Year (they could have placed the order for the hub and spokes)
Assuming normal turnaround times for the frame, it's 7 days for painted frames (plus 15 holidays), by Feb 7 the frame should have been ready.
I did a followup on Feb 18, and Chris only mentioned the frame to be in the paint shop, and that he would keep me posted
Estimating one month delay on getting the spokes and hubs, the wheels should have been ready late February.
We are now in 2nd week in March and no updates so far.
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I just ordered a 168 from Velobuild and Chris told me it would take 10 days to paint.
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They didn't set any ETA. I ordered one week before Chinese New Year (they could have placed the order for the hub and spokes)
Assuming normal turnaround times for the frame, it's 7 days for painted frames (plus 15 holidays), by Feb 7 the frame should have been ready.
I did a followup on Feb 18, and Chris only mentioned the frame to be in the paint shop, and that he would keep me posted
Estimating one month delay on getting the spokes and hubs, the wheels should have been ready late February.
I ordered around the same time and have been less than impressed with the updates/communication. I just got asked to pay more for shipping… since they changed providers. Be prepared if you ordered wheels too.
We are now in 2nd week in March and no updates so far.
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They didn't set any ETA. I ordered one week before Chinese New Year (they could have placed the order for the hub and spokes)
Assuming normal turnaround times for the frame, it's 7 days for painted frames (plus 15 holidays), by Feb 7 the frame should have been ready.
I did a followup on Feb 18, and Chris only mentioned the frame to be in the paint shop, and that he would keep me posted
Estimating one month delay on getting the spokes and hubs, the wheels should have been ready late February.
We are now in 2nd week in March and no updates so far.
Just to update you guys, Chris says they will ship this week. The issue was getting the hubs
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Haha. I do see his videos.
Yes I'm based in Singapore
Currently not able to ride as i injured my toe ligament, need months to heal.
Maybe once I'm healed, we can go for a ride if you want to see my bike
I'm just an overseas fan of his videos. I used to travel to Singapore often for work pre-pandemic though.
Hope you get better soon and ride your bike in good health!
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Turns out the headset still showing play, the only solution is removing the carbon topcap and using a traditional top cap (which leave the stem open for water/dirt). I bought a Stem from Deda, the Superbox, hoping to be the final solution, but the compression ring is a bit taller than the one from Velobuild, I assembled the stem anyway. In the picture you can see the space between the headsetcup and the frame
Deda might have a solution, but I´m too tire to disassemble the HS, would anyone know the bearing and cup size of the headset upper part?
Email from Deda:
- The height of the upper bearing shell (our headset features 8,7mm upper bearing shell height, but we can check if there is solution for your frame).
Any update on this?
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I know the site says 160 rotors, but has anyone fit 140? Only asking because that’s what I currently have without having to spend more money on rotors lol
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Hey Everyone,
My 177 is finally live on my channel:
YouTube title: VeloBuild 177 Review - Verdict: Lightweight Affordability
https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA (https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA)
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Hey Everyone,
My 177 is finally live on my channel:
YouTube title: VeloBuild 177 Review - Verdict: Lightweight Affordability
https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA (https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA)
Great video! Just an update on my own 177 bike experience
- The stem has a design flaw, the carbon top cap is not strong enough and does not fit perfectly with the stem, in order to keep the play from the fork/stem you need a constant compression in the system no matter how tight you tork the stem to the fork. If you ride in rough roads this thing will always end up having play because of vibrations, I tried a longer expander and the only solution was actually buying a stem from Deda
- The first fork had a misaliagned rivet for the brake caliper, it was impossible to adjust the brake without the rotor rubbing. Velobuild was kind to send a second fork painted to the color I ordered, but to my surprise the new fork had the same problem, the bottom rivet was not at an 90º degree angle to the fork, so when the caliper was secured it would move inward. My mechanic was able to replace the rivet with carbon resin. I was so pissed that I did not even email Velobuild at the time
If for not these two major issues the experience would be rated amazing, ride feels very compliant, frame climbs snapy, they really have done a great job frame wise.
But they need to fix the fork issues, if this was a batch problem or some QA mistake and they cannot sell that STEM the way it is, it simply DOES NOT WORK.
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Great video! Just an update on my own 177 bike experience
- The stem has a design flaw, the carbon top cap is not strong enough and does not fit perfectly with the stem, in order to keep the play from the fork/stem you need a constant compression in the system no matter how tight you tork the stem to the fork. If you ride in rough roads this thing will always end up having play because of vibrations, I tried a longer expander and the only solution was actually buying a stem from Deda
- The first fork had a misaliagned rivet for the brake caliper, it was impossible to adjust the brake without the rotor rubbing. Velobuild was kind to send a second fork painted to the color I ordered, but to my surprise the new fork had the same problem, the bottom rivet was not at an 90º degree angle to the fork, so when the caliper was secured it would move inward. My mechanic was able to replace the rivet with carbon resin. I was so pissed that I did not even email Velobuild at the time
If for not these two major issues the experience would be rated amazing, ride feels very compliant, frame climbs snapy, they really have done a great job frame wise.
But they need to fix the fork issues, if this was a batch problem or some QA mistake and they cannot sell that STEM the way it is, it simply DOES NOT WORK.
I'm still on the fence about the separate stem/bar combo myself. Despite removing "most" of the headset play it still isnt perfect, and I would not feel comfortable using the bike in any super fast group rides or races. Only reason I went with the separate combo is because I need the 120mm stem and 400mm width bar, something VeloBuild does not sell integrated. As you have mentioned the carbon top cap design is flawed for sure.
My VB-177 has spent most of the winter on the trainer...which isn't ideal if you only have one bike. Let me know if the Deda ACR stem works for you, as I'll probably end up doing the same next fall. Sucks because of the effort involved, not to mention the weight penalty.
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I'm still on the fence about the separate stem/bar combo myself. Despite removing "most" of the headset play it still isnt perfect, and I would not feel comfortable using the bike in any super fast group rides or races. Only reason I went with the separate combo is because I need the 120mm stem and 400mm width bar, something VeloBuild does not sell integrated. As you have mentioned the carbon top cap design is flawed for sure.
My VB-177 has spent most of the winter on the trainer...which isn't ideal if you only have one bike. Let me know if the Deda ACR stem works for you, as I'll probably end up doing the same next fall. Sucks because of the effort involved, not to mention the weight penalty.
I have done 500KM on the Deda on very rough roads its working perfectly. Just two things:
- Compression ring that seats over the bearing is about 1MM thicker, I need to cut it down so there is no space between the bottom cup and the frame.
Deda has approved this via email, they even offered to print one to measure
- The system is not fully integrated, there is a box to hide the cables below the stem, the Superbox only works with full integration if the fork is D shapped, very few bikes have that type of fork.
Yes it was a tremendous effort to make this bike work properly, had I bought a Cannondale Supersix the price would be not so far out, but I tried to cut down the cost and have a bike that would be close to 7.9KG. Disc bikes have become incredibly heavy.
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I have done 500KM on the Deda on very rough roads its working perfectly. Just two things:
- Compression ring that seats over the bearing is about 1MM thicker, I need to cut it down so there is no space between the bottom cup and the frame.
Deda has approved this via email, they even offered to print one to measure
- The system is not fully integrated, there is a box to hide the cables below the stem, the Superbox only works with full integration if the fork is D shapped, very few bikes have that type of fork.
Yes it was a tremendous effort to make this bike work properly, had I bought a Cannondale Supersix the price would be not so far out, but I tried to cut down the cost and have a bike that would be close to 7.9KG. Disc bikes have become incredibly heavy.
Thanks for the reply. I have a few questions.
What did you use to cut the compression ring?
Did you use the deda spacers?
A picture would be great.
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Thanks for the reply. I have a few questions.
What did you use to cut the compression ring?
Did you use the deda spacers?
A picture would be great.
Sorry to take this long to reply.
I have not cut the compression ring yet, I just need to shave 1MM from the top, have no clue how I should cut it.
I used the Deda spacers.
I will post a video tomorrow of the setup and show you why the compression needs to be cut a bit
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@irideslowly
took some pictures hope it helps
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@irideslowly
took some pictures hope it helps
Thanks! This will help a lot of people.
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I dread having to re-route my cables when switching to that Deda stem later this year. And my stem is slammed LoL :-X
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I know the site says 160 rotors, but has anyone fit 140? Only asking because that’s what I currently have without having to spend more money on rotors lol
I haven't received the frame yet. It only left Singapore yesterday
However: I asked Chris about that. He said 160 is the max rotor and needs adapter in the back. In the front, just flipping the included mount will provide for it.
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Must’ve clicked the wrong color, but pretty stoked on this one anyway!
Refuse 32s are more than enough in the rear, the front is a little tall but still clears :)
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I have done 500KM on the Deda on very rough roads its working perfectly. Just two things:
- Compression ring that seats over the bearing is about 1MM thicker, I need to cut it down so there is no space between the bottom cup and the frame.
Deda has approved this via email, they even offered to print one to measure
- The system is not fully integrated, there is a box to hide the cables below the stem, the Superbox only works with full integration if the fork is D shapped, very few bikes have that type of fork.
Yes it was a tremendous effort to make this bike work properly, had I bought a Cannondale Supersix the price would be not so far out, but I tried to cut down the cost and have a bike that would be close to 7.9KG. Disc bikes have become incredibly heavy.
Does anyone know how to cut it?
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Also going to use the FSA NCR stem to get the 140mm I need, so I’ll be waiting a little bit longer sadly!
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Does anyone know how to cut it?
No idea yet
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Also going to use the FSA NCR stem to get the 140mm I need, so I’ll be waiting a little bit longer sadly!
Please post pics once you are done.
I did not buy the NCR stem because the spacers, compression ring were sold separately.
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i dont need the spacers so i hope I don't need to buy that FSA No.55r 1.5 headset just for the top cap! I do have 3 other bikes that run that size headset bearing, so I guess I'd be buying those bearings eventually...
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Has anyone had issues with the seatpost being too wide for their saddle's rails? I've tried 3 or 4 saddles and none will fit on.
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Has anyone had issues with the seatpost being too wide for their saddle's rails? I've tried 3 or 4 saddles and none will fit on.
Have a carbon sqlabs on, no problem
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Anyone ever have issues with their water bottle cages not clearing? the FD mount seems to stick out far enough that I can't tighten it down.
Not the best photo, but the FD clamp is sticking out far enough that it interfers with the cage.
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I'm going to assume the 177 was primarily focused on braze-on FDs not clamp ons.
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Have a carbon sqlabs on, no problem
Weird. I'm trying to use the metal version of an SQ labs 612 and it's just not fitting.
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This is a braze on mount, I didn't add anything to it, is your front derailer braze on flush with the frame or protrude line mine does?
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Weird. I'm trying to use the metal version of an SQ labs 612 and it's just not fitting.
What a weird coincidence lol also running the 612 Carbon 14cm. Wish they made the 15 version.
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@patliean1 did you try turning the 177 into a gravel ride? I´m thinking of ordering some cheap 650B wheels, wonder how big I can get the tires going that way. Maybe some 5MM more? a tire close to 40MM would be great
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@patliean1 did you try turning the 177 into a gravel ride? I´m thinking of ordering some cheap 650B wheels, wonder how big I can get the tires going that way. Maybe some 5MM more? a tire close to 40MM would be great
Couple things I'm working on with my 177...
1. I'm waiting for another Chinertown member to finish and confirm the FSA/ACR headset and stem combo works for his 177. Once confirmed, I'll need to do this process myself to fix the headset issue.
2. Gonna fit my gravel wheels with 32c tires to my 177 to see if I can cyclocross with the frame next fall.
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I can barely clear 32mm Maxxis Refuse on the front fork, the tire on the Fulcrum rims I had was a true 32mm on the calipers. It barely had 1mm of clearance on the height. Good enough for road use (for me anyway) but anymore than that may be sketch. The rear had enough clearance.
I don't know if I would try and put a knobby CX tire on here...
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I can barely clear 32mm Maxxis Refuse on the front fork, the tire on the Fulcrum rims I had was a true 32mm on the calipers. It barely had 1mm of clearance on the height. Good enough for road use (for me anyway) but anymore than that may be sketch. The rear had enough clearance.
I don't know if I would try and put a knobby CX tire on here...
Yikes good to know. Guess I will be using my gravel bike for CX...which also isn't ideal LoL
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Hello everyone,
Herewith my contribution with my new Velobuild VB-R-177. This has been my first bike build ever and it was a fun experience.
I made my choice buying from Velobuild. Couldn't decide between the VB-R-166 and the VB-R-177 but I finally decided to go with the VB-R-177.
My objective was to build a budget road bike. Therefore, I took my time and looked for used / discounted parts from the internet. I was very happy with most purchases (especially the group set). But it didn't always work out great. One of the disks appeared to be not completely round, so that needs replacement. Also buying second hand, means sometimes that some small parts are not included. Especially in my case as an inexperienced DIY bike mechanic, that appeared to be a challenge since most of the time you notice the absence of parts only while you are in the building process. It took me a lot of extra time, but I already calculated that in before starting the project.
Furthermore; Youtube appeared to be my friend in this project, since there are tons of instructional movies around to get information from. I was also lucky with my local bike shop to help me out with missing parts and giving good advice when I got stuck.
I did have play in the headset that made me worried, since I’ve seen some excellent Video’s from Patrick Lino (also known as patlien1 on this forum I believe) on Youtube. But in the end, it appeared a replacement of the inner lock end better montage. All in all, the integrated head set makes it trickier.
I did bring the bike in with my local bike shop once it was built for a good checkup and to micro adjust the shifters and to give myself some peace of mind about safety.
In conclusion; I learned a lot, will do many things differently in a new project. But it was very educational and a lot of fun, I think everybody can do it.
I did my first longer rides and I'm super happy with the end result. But I must say my only comparison of the ride quality is with my ancient aluminum road bike only on 23mm tires.
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Looking good! My only advice, be careful with that stem. That project is flawed, the carbon topcap is too frail and loose to apply proper compression, without it the stem/fork will also have some play after a long ride.
People are switching to FSA or the Deda Superbox in my case.
Just wish Velobuild would stop selling that stem and offer a proper solution.
Hello everyone,
Herewith my contribution with my new Velobuild VB-R-177. This has been my first bike build ever and it was a fun experience.
I made my choice buying from Velobuild. Couldn't decide between the VB-R-166 and the VB-R-177 but I finally decided to go with the VB-R-177.
My objective was to build a budget road bike. Therefore, I took my time and looked for used / discounted parts from the internet. I was very happy with most purchases (especially the group set). But it didn't always work out great. One of the disks appeared to be not completely round, so that needs replacement. Also buying second hand, means sometimes that some small parts are not included. Especially in my case as an inexperienced DIY bike mechanic, that appeared to be a challenge since most of the time you notice the absence of parts only while you are in the building process. It took me a lot of extra time, but I already calculated that in before starting the project.
Furthermore; Youtube appeared to be my friend in this project, since there are tons of instructional movies around to get information from. I was also lucky with my local bike shop to help me out with missing parts and giving good advice when I got stuck.
I did have play in the headset that made me worried, since I’ve seen some excellent Video’s from Patrick Lino (also known as patlien1 on this forum I believe) on Youtube. But in the end, it appeared a replacement of the inner lock end better montage. All in all, the integrated head set makes it trickier.
I did bring the bike in with my local bike shop once it was built for a good checkup and to micro adjust the shifters and to give myself some peace of mind about safety.
In conclusion; I learned a lot, will do many things differently in a new project. But it was very educational and a lot of fun, I think everybody can do it.
I did my first longer rides and I'm super happy with the end result. But I must say my only comparison of the ride quality is with my ancient aluminum road bike only on 23mm tires.
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Thanks for the advice, was the Deda Superbox supplied with lockring and spacers?
Looking good! My only advice, be careful with that stem. That project is flawed, the carbon topcap is too frail and loose to apply proper compression, without it the stem/fork will also have some play after a long ride.
People are switching to FSA or the Deda Superbox in my case.
Just wish Velobuild would stop selling that stem and offer a proper solution.
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Thanks for the advice, was the Deda Superbox supplied with lockring and spacers?
Deda comes with the spacers and the compression ring. (the thing that sits on the bearing) what do you mean by lockring? The expander? The one that came with the frame will work
Just a point about the Deda, cables will run outside the stem in a box, no directly through stem and fork, but it looks clean and integrated. The stem is beautiful
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Many thanks, Yes I mean the compression ring I guess. Very interesting. I must say; although I had Play in the headset initially which gave me a big headache, it sits rock solid at the moment, no play at all after just taking it all loose and replace it again. Your remarks make me thinking though, safety first. I saw pictures of it from you I believe on a red frame? You used a Deda bar?
Deda comes with the spacers and the compression ring. (the thing that sits on the bearing) what do you mean by lockring? The expander? The one that came with the frame will work
Just a point about the Deda, cables will run outside the stem in a box, no directly through stem and fork, but it looks clean and integrated. The stem is beautiful
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I noticed the 177 seatpost slips down about 1cm after long rides. I switched from carbon to alloy seatpost so I can tighten the clamp a little more but it still slips (even after using carbon paste etc).
It doesn't slip on the indoor trainer though.
Wondering if anyone has similar issues.
I really miss the old school circular seatpost clamp design. I never had slipping problems with that.
Looking forward to the VB zero offset 099 seatpost so I can revive my 099 as a backup bike.
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I had slop in my headset as well. I ended up grinding down to flush one of the alignment posts on the compression ring and added some shims. That seems to have gotten rid of the slop, but have done enough riding to be sure. I'm suspecting aligning with 3 features (2 alignment posts and the steerer tube) is a contributing issue.
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So, here is my version of VB-R-177.
Order placed in January, delayed by Chinese new year, procurement of spokes and hubs and a lockdown.
Custom paint and decals by Velobuild
Wheels are also from Velobuild (50mm), but customized with sapim CX ray spokes and Bitex 312 hubs
Groupset is all Shimano 105 hydraulic, with left crank PM (Xcadey)
Both rotors are SM-RT70-SS 140mm (also Shimano 105 series)
Tires are Conti GP5000 TL
Saddle is Selle Italia Flite FM Flow manganese rails
I didn't build it. I asked the LBS to do it for me as it would have taken ages to be completed
They didn't report issues in the compression bolt, but did report misalignment in the front wheel brake caliper too, as well as they said it was the "wrong rotor". I fixed both things:
- I flipped the caliper mount as per Shimano manual
- When aligning the caliper, I used the business card method, but also inserted a 6mm allen key between the rotor (closer to the hub) and the caliper mount, before tighten the lower screw. The one on top I left it at 6Nm.
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So, here is my version of VB-R-177.
Order placed in January, delayed by Chinese new year, procurement of spokes and hubs and a lockdown.
Custom paint and decals by Velobuild
Wheels are also from Velobuild (50mm), but customized with sapim CX ray spokes and Bitex 312 hubs
Groupset is all Shimano 105 hydraulic, with left crank PM (Xcadey)
Both rotors are SM-RT70-SS 140mm (also Shimano 105 series)
Tires are Conti GP5000 TL
Saddle is Selle Italia Flite FM Flow manganese rails
I didn't build it. I asked the LBS to do it for me as it.
They didn't report issues in the compression bolt, but did report misalignment in the front wheel brake caliper too, as well as they said it was the "wrong rotor". I fixed both things:
- I flipped the caliper mount as per Shimano manual
- When aligning the caliper, I used the business card method, but also inserted a 6mm allen key between the rotor (closer to the hub) and the caliper mount, before tighten the lower screw. The one on top I left it at 6Nm.
It looks really lovely, congratulations :)
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Many thanks, Yes I mean the compression ring I guess. Very interesting. I must say; although I had Play in the headset initially which gave me a big headache, it sits rock solid at the moment, no play at all after just taking it all loose and replace it again. Your remarks make me thinking though, safety first. I saw pictures of it from you I believe on a red frame? You used a Deda bar?
Still using the Velobuild handle bar but plan to switch to the Deda Superzero RS handlebar that is not out yet.
How rough are the roads you ride? In smooth roads the play used to take some rides to show, but if I went to any routes with bad tarmac it would start to show play on the same ride.
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Pretty smooth surfaces I have too say, I will take a lookout for the problem.
I have been snooping around and have seen some offers for around 100 Euro. Really appreciate your advice and I'm strongly considering it.
Still using the Velobuild handle bar but plan to switch to the Deda Superzero RS handlebar that is not out yet.
How rough are the roads you ride? In smooth roads the play used to take some rides to show, but if I went to any routes with bad tarmac it would start to show play on the same ride.
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Looking good! My only advice, be careful with that stem. That project is flawed, the carbon topcap is too frail and loose to apply proper compression, without it the stem/fork will also have some play after a long ride.
People are switching to FSA or the Deda Superbox in my case.
Just wish Velobuild would stop selling that stem and offer a proper solution.
Hi@Liter, isn't the top cap just for coverage and the headset nut is responsible for the compression/firmness?
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Quick early review after 4 rides: 20, 30,45 and 100Kms, mostly to address current complaints here.
In the first ride, the seat was slipping and the front brake rubbing
I fixed both things (tighten the seat post and correcting the caliper position). Both things seem still fine after those rides.
Bike feels very nice, Snappy under accelerations.
I seem to adapt very well to the position in this bike. I don't find it overly aggressive, but this is probably given that I picked the bigger size. I do notice the shorter reach. Seamless transition to the narrower handlebar (400mm)
I don't perceive the headset play (roads here are horrendous).
I should also try to put the 11-28 cassette and keep the 11-32 for the gravel season or the odd Ardennes-like ride, because the bigger gap makes me either spinning or grinding
Wheelset from Velobuild (custom 50mm with Sapim and Bitex) feels OK. I was riding 42mm Prolite before and they catch more in crosswinds. In fact, I only perceive a bit of instability when a truck pass me, but nothing too dangerous
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Quick early review after 4 rides: 20, 30,45 and 100Kms, mostly to address current complaints here.
In the first ride, the seat was slipping and the front brake rubbing
I fixed both things (tighten the seat post and correcting the caliper position). Both things seem still fine after those rides.
Bike feels very nice, Snappy under accelerations.
I seem to adapt very well to the position in this bike. I don't find it overly aggressive, but this is probably given that I picked the bigger size. I do notice the shorter reach. Seamless transition to the narrower handlebar (400mm)
I don't perceive the headset play (roads here are horrendous).
I should also try to put the 11-28 cassette and keep the 11-32 for the gravel season or the odd Ardennes-like ride, because the bigger gap makes me either spinning or grinding
Wheelset from Velobuild (custom 50mm with Sapim and Bitex) feels OK. I was riding 42mm Prolite before and they catch more in crosswinds. In fact, I only perceive a bit of instability when a truck pass me, but nothing too dangerous
What weight did you get the wheels down to?
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Hello,
last year I built my first gravel bike velobuild GF-002, had some issues, most of them were due to my lack of enough experience and very easy to solve, and some were known velobuild issues, still relatively easy to solve.
I rode my bike over 3500 km.
My friends, after seeing me riding with confidence, also wanted to have a gravel bike like that, so I built another 7 GF-002 for friends, with integrated bar and separated bar and stem combinations, during that process, I learned lots of tricks, and made my tools better and collect a good amount of experience for building bikes.
I thought now it's time to build a proper road bike for myself again, and here it is, my new VB-R-177, and I absolutely love it.
The classic headset play problem can be solved (at least in my cases) with a sand paper, you should sand the steerer tube until the headcap sits perfectly on the compression plug, and yes, it should be straight, so take your time and try to have a clean cut, it helps.
If you still have problem, micro shims are your friend, cut one and put it between compression ring and headset cover.
For another classic problem, rubbing brakes, you should use M5 bolts that comes usually with break rotors(for 6 bolt rotors) as they are a bit shorter than regular bolts, they may help a lot to adjust the breaks properly.
Other than that, I don't see any major issue on velobuild side.
If you are considering some semi-hydraulic solution like juin-techs, you should not, yes, they can stop you, but the difference is like day and night, now I feel much much safer on descends, and have much better control overall.
For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that :) you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.
After about 200 km on this, I can say the ride quality is very good, the bike is very responsive, climbing and descending is very fun, the bike is fast and comfortable.
I did not build a weight weenie bike, so my setup with pedals, bottle cages, garmin mount and velobuild gravel wheels (which I used on my gravel bike) is 7.9, so you can cut some good amount of weight if you go for a lighter wheelset.
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The classic headset play issue is with the separate handlebar/stem combo, because the stem's top cap design is flawed.
Is there also a known issue with the integrated handlebar too?
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The classic headset play issue is with the separate handlebar/stem combo, because the stem's top cap design is flawed.
Is there also a known issue with the integrated handlebar too?
yes, i had some very tiny amount of play with my integrated handlebar too! i think the problem is that the cover can not push enough on the compression ring, and cover and ring are identical in both seperate and integrated bars.
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For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that :) you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.
Interesting, can you share a bit more? Did you cut a hole in your integrated bar? What about the structural integrity? Also; does this not makes it easy for water to enter?
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Hey Everyone,
My 177 is finally live on my channel:
YouTube title: VeloBuild 177 Review - Verdict: Lightweight Affordability
https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA (https://youtu.be/_1IqLnaIhtA)
Hello Patrick, can you give a comparison of your experiences between the Dengfu and the Velobuild?
Thanks
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Hello Patrick, can you give a comparison of your experiences between the Dengfu and the Velobuild?
Thanks
The design and execution of VB-177 is focused on being super lightweight, while the Dengfu R12 is an aero frame and essentially a clone of the SL7. Different frames for different uses.
I'm happy to answer any specifics questions, as I've found this helps potential customers more than broad general comparisons.
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What weight did you get the wheels down to?
Front wheel 742gr
Rear Wheel 880gr
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I noticed the 177 seatpost slips down about 1cm after long rides. I switched from carbon to alloy seatpost so I can tighten the clamp a little more but it still slips (even after using carbon paste etc).
It doesn't slip on the indoor trainer though.
Wondering if anyone has similar issues.
I really miss the old school circular seatpost clamp design. I never had slipping problems with that.
Looking forward to the VB zero offset 099 seatpost so I can revive my 099 as a backup bike.
Update on 177 slipping seatpost issue;
My VB177 seatpost clamp came with a M6/35mm hex socket cap bolt.
I swapped it with the M6/30mm hex socket cap bolt from my 099 seatpost clamp and my seatpost slipping issues seam to have disappeared after over 100km of testing.
Not sure of the physics to why this has solve the slipping issue but I am sure glad because it feels like a brand new bike.
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yes, i had some very tiny amount of play with my integrated handlebar too! i think the problem is that the cover can not push enough on the compression ring, and cover and ring are identical in both seperate and integrated bars.
hey patrick, yes, you are right with the carbon topcap, just built another GF-002 for a friend , with seperate stem and bar, had exactly the same problem with the carbon topcap, could somehow solve it with putting a normal topcap under the carbon one, and compress them together, it looks it solved the problem, will send updates after some tests.
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For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that :) you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.
Interesting, can you share a bit more? Did you cut a hole in your integrated bar? What about the structural integrity? Also; does this not makes it easy for water to enter?
no, there is no need for a hole in the bar, and no, if water can enter in normal case, it can also enter in my case, but i don't see any reason it can enter., also rode in wet condition last week, no problem at all. you can download the photos i've posted, it's clear in them if you download them, in browser they are a bit foggy
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Hey All!
I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.
#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap.
#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the bearing cap, make all the difference.
#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.
#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.
The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.
Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap
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Hey All!
I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.
#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap.
#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the bearing cap, make all the difference.
#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.
#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.
The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.
Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap
awesome, looks like a proper solution! where can i order that c-clip?
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seems to be called pressing ring
(https://img.joomcdn.net/2d367b01c78f06f87711bbb79cf9e5b3c19f014b_1024_1024.jpeg)
Maybe here
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/deda-compression-ring-for-dcr-system/138244301/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=13757742&country=ae&gclid=CjwKCAjwve2TBhByEiwAaktM1CSdVhSr9clZpAnTvKLO70WHuWV7ImXIdjgmOz8B07t8vVqrO_1OzRoCpiUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.
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Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.
Looks amazing! That paint :)
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Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.
Wonderful bike. That saddle to bar drop is something else.. 8)
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Wonderful bike. That saddle to bar drop is something else.. 8)
It's not as aggressive as it seems, when you have long arms haha!
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It's not as aggressive as it seems, when you have long arms haha!
I am 6' with a 6'6" wingspan. I guess I could remove some spacers as well?????
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I am 6' with a 6'6" wingspan. I guess I could remove some spacers as well?????
Yikes! Only one way to find out!
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Posting a reply we just published in the dedicated thread below in case any miss it.
http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=3683.msg36291#msg36291
I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.
Thank you Patliean1 for all the troubleshooting and your detailed assessment.
We have been working on resolving the headset play issue some customers with the separate bar/stem combo have experienced and are happy to announce that the issue has been resolved by increasing the thickness of the C shaped bearing press by 0.5mm.
All shipments since April have been sent with the new bearing press and we have also sent it to existing customers that have been affected and it has resolved their issues.
If you have the separate handlebar/stem and are experiencing this issue please contact us for a new C shaped bearing press by email at info@velobuild.com
New customer orders of the separate handlebar/stem will also include split spacers.
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Hi@Liter, isn't the top cap just for coverage and the headset nut is responsible for the compression/firmness?
You need some compression for the play not to show up, just the clamp force won't work. Using a metal top cap cut to fit the stem actually solved this, that is why I decided to buy the Deda
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Hello,
last year I built my first gravel bike velobuild GF-002, had some issues, most of them were due to my lack of enough experience and very easy to solve, and some were known velobuild issues, still relatively easy to solve.
I rode my bike over 3500 km.
My friends, after seeing me riding with confidence, also wanted to have a gravel bike like that, so I built another 7 GF-002 for friends, with integrated bar and separated bar and stem combinations, during that process, I learned lots of tricks, and made my tools better and collect a good amount of experience for building bikes.
I thought now it's time to build a proper road bike for myself again, and here it is, my new VB-R-177, and I absolutely love it.
The classic headset play problem can be solved (at least in my cases) with a sand paper, you should sand the steerer tube until the headcap sits perfectly on the compression plug, and yes, it should be straight, so take your time and try to have a clean cut, it helps.
If you still have problem, micro shims are your friend, cut one and put it between compression ring and headset cover.
For another classic problem, rubbing brakes, you should use M5 bolts that comes usually with break rotors(for 6 bolt rotors) as they are a bit shorter than regular bolts, they may help a lot to adjust the breaks properly.
Other than that, I don't see any major issue on velobuild side.
If you are considering some semi-hydraulic solution like juin-techs, you should not, yes, they can stop you, but the difference is like day and night, now I feel much much safer on descends, and have much better control overall.
For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that :) you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.
After about 200 km on this, I can say the ride quality is very good, the bike is very responsive, climbing and descending is very fun, the bike is fast and comfortable.
I did not build a weight weenie bike, so my setup with pedals, bottle cages, garmin mount and velobuild gravel wheels (which I used on my gravel bike) is 7.9, so you can cut some good amount of weight if you go for a lighter wheelset.
Agreed on the Juin Tech/cable hydro option. Don't do it! This frame/bar combo is not a good candidate for mechanical/cable hydraulic brakes of any brand, things can get rather dicey in descents and tight corners. When I first built up my 177 I used a full mechanical group with Juin Tech F1s and while they did the job, braking power and reliability was just not good enough regardless of cable housing/pad switches/adjusting/etc. I did. Everything I tried made the brakes slightly better, but still nowhere near the ease and power of the SRAM hydraulic brakes I promptly switched to. I mainly tried them out because red anodized calipers look really, really cool. Still trying to figure out a way to make my SRAM calipers red :D :D
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Just dropping a quick pic/build blurb of my 177 for y'all to see :D
-Frame size M, 420x100 one piece bar and stem
-Total weight is about 8kg/18 lb. as you see it with pedals, cages, mount, etc (without bottles).
-Delivered as an og black frame. Custom paint and decals done by me.
-Groupset: Sram hydro mechanical mashup with Shimano crankset and chain and Deckas lightweight rotors. Centerline XR rotors are sitting on my desk. I'll switch them out eventually, I just have no issue with the performance of the Deckas rotors and they're significantly lighter as well.
-Wheel/tires: 38mm depth/25mm inner width Chinese carbon wheels sourced from OfferUp for a good deal, I think they're Superteam. Matched up with 29mm Enve SES tires. Tubeless setup.
-Saddle: Prologo NDR 143. I miss my carbon Velobuild saddle :( the VB saddle pooped out and Chris has sent a replacement. Can't wait for it to arrive.
-Photos show the VB seatpost. I'm now running a 0 offset carbon seatpost.
-Time ATAC XC4 Pedals (yes, mtb pedals)
May do a longer review/video/photoshoot later on if time permits, detailing the build specs, issues, build and ride experiences, paint/decal process, etc.
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Should be picking this up in the next 48 hours! I just need to put on a rear mount, I assumed I could bolt the sram one right to the frame like my old bike!
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Should be picking this up in the next 48 hours! I just need to put on a rear mount, I assumed I could bolt the sram one right to the frame like my old bike!
Looks great! The FSA ACR set up looks super clean as well.
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Should be picking this up in the next 48 hours! I just need to put on a rear mount, I assumed I could bolt the sram one right to the frame like my old bike!
Tell me why it took you local bike shop over a month to complete ? LoL
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Tell me why it took you local bike shop over a month to complete ? LoL
part of it was my fault, I was hoping the hoses I had on my groupset were long enough, had to source them, then the owner got COVID (two man shop) and ended up shutting down for a week... Took twice as long as I expected but I had other bikes to ride :)
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any torque specs on the seatpost clamp in frame? slipping at 6nm...
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Torque specs won't make a difference. Try carbon paste or make a shim using a can of Coca-Cola.
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forgot about the carbon paste, we are golden now!
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any torque specs on the seatpost clamp in frame? slipping at 6nm...
You can see which or combination of these tips for solving slipping seatpost. Thread was created because of frustration from a 177 slipping seatpost.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3705.0.html
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Seat may need to go up a tad, but otherwise it's super comfy. Going to head out for a lunch ride and throw some bar tape on it this afternoon if it feels good!
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Kinda bummed that this Rubino pro 30mm measures 32mm on the calipers and pretty much rubs:
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Kinda bummed that this Rubino pro 30mm measures 32mm on the calipers and pretty much rubs:
I was just mentioning in another post how I would love to use my VB-177 for CX since technically it can accommodate 32c tires. From the looks of your photo this is not quite accurate, especially if I use knobby tires.
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Kinda bummed that this Rubino pro 30mm measures 32mm on the calipers and pretty much rubs:
The end width depends on your rim width as well as the pressure.
For instance 28mm tires on my 32mm rim, makes them 31mm at 4bar.
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Anyone have issue with the straight seat post hardware by the saddle? 2 hours of total ride time and it ended up stripping the barrel of the rear bolt. Had to ride 9 miles home standing up. I don’t think I overtorqued it…. But was kind of a bummer.
Otherwise I’m pretty stoked on it!
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Anyone have issue with the straight seat post hardware by the saddle? 2 hours of total ride time and it ended up stripping the barrel of the rear bolt. Had to ride 9 miles home standing up. I don’t think I overtorqued it…. But was kind of a bummer.
Otherwise I’m pretty stoked on it!
I have the same straight seatpost but I sourced it elsewhere. It's a Toseek but the hardware looks identical to the VB post and I'm not too crazy about it either... No issues yet, but it's a bit hard to set up just how I want it and it the hardware doesn't look or feel as good as the setback seatpost imo. Currently looking for a different straight seatpost myself
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Between my Thomson post and the carbon one they gave me, even at 6-8nm, I can still rotate the seatpost in the frame. Cleaned both well, carbon paste on both seat posts, same result. I could increase the torque and I bet I still have the same issues…
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There's most likely a few mm gap between the Seatpost and the frame. Most open moulds have this issue. Put a can of soda in the gap then clamp onto it. should work.
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Between my Thomson post and the carbon one they gave me, even at 6-8nm, I can still rotate the seatpost in the frame. Cleaned both well, carbon paste on both seat posts, same result. I could increase the torque and I bet I still have the same issues…
Welcome to my world with the 177 seatpost clamp issue.
I currently run a cheap (relatively heavy) alloy 27.2mm seatpost with fiberglass tape wrapped 2 layers inside the seat tube / seatpost / clamp interface. Also changed the clamp bolt to a 30mm hex socket cap bolt and fastened the bolt pretty tight.
Now no rotating or slipping for over 500km of riding. Still have my eyes on it, watching the slide mark closely. No slip yet so far.
The carbon seatpost that came with the frame has two deep clamp scratches from slipping. Not safe to use anymore.
I'll be leaving the 177 on the indoor trainer forever when my 099 zero offset seatpost arrives.
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There's most likely a few mm gap between the Seatpost and the frame. Most open moulds have this issue. Put a can of soda in the gap then clamp onto it. should work.
I did this in the front part by the clamp, which helped, but it still is able to rotate if i apply some good pressure to it. its certainly better, but not great...
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I do it all around the seatpost to ensure the gap is filled
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I do it all around the seatpost to ensure the gap is filled
Don’t think I could get it all the way around the seat post, I’ll give it a shot!
EDIT: this setup, going out for a 30 minute ride soon, hopefully it stays put. It's maybe 95%?
EDIT2: No slips, tried to hit all the potholes/manhole covers I could, so lets hope that this the fix...
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Now onto widest tires; who has what?
My training wheelset (read not road race/light gravel) is 19mm internally. I tried Rubino Pros in 30mm and while it clears, I already scratched the underside of the fork 8)
I looked through the thread but couldn't get every detail, anyone able to run a 30/32 without rubbing? What is your rim internal width?
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I tried mounting tubeless 30/32c Specialized Roubaix slicks last night…absolutely no way there were fitting on the front.
EDIT: Probably because the wheels I was using has an inner width of 23 and outer of 31.
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I tried mounting tubeless 30/32c Specialized Roubaix slicks last night…absolutely no way there were fitting on the front.
EDIT: Probably because the wheels I was using has an inner width of 23 and outer of 31.
I got those too, but no way they would even be close to fitting, They are 35mm on a set of 21.6mm internal width...
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I’m running Enve SES in 29mm mounted on a very wide rim with I believe 25mm internal and they fit with plenty of clearance. The tires balloon to about 31mm at 80psi. I think I could go one size up if I really wanted to, but the clearance at the top would be very tight.
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I’m running Enve SES in 29mm mounted on a very wide rim with I believe 25mm internal and they fit with plenty of clearance. The tires balloon to about 31mm at 80psi. I think I could go one size up if I really wanted to, but the clearance at the top would be very tight.
Do you have any pictures of the closest points to frame rub?
Thanks!
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Do you have any pictures of the closest points to frame rub?
Thanks!
Here you go! I tried to get all the angles.
Upon closer inspection, maybe a 30mm tire may be cutting it close, what do y'all think?
I'm pretty happy with these tires. If anything, I might be looking to go a bit narrower in the future.
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Interesting that VeloBuild advertises that 32c tires can fit. I tried again fitting slick road tires that are label as "30/32" and absolutely no way they are fitting.
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Just measured my front tire with calipers and it sits at 31.8mm exactly. Agreed that a tire that says 700x32c on it likely won't fit, but a true 32mm inflated tire should fit just fine. I'm pretty sure this is what Velobuild advertises (32mm tire clearance, not 700x32c tire clearance) and at least on my frame, this is very much accurate.
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Here you go! I tried to get all the angles.
Upon closer inspection, maybe a 30mm tire may be cutting it close, what do y'all think?
I'm pretty happy with these tires. If anything, I might be looking to go a bit narrower in the future.
Thanks for the pics! That's probably the closest I'd cut it. Maybe the 177 isn't right for me. I was hoping for 32s. I wonder if the 168 can actually fit em
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Thanks for the photos! My 30mm Rubino Pros were maybe a little closer than those, but I agree, that would be "safe" in my standards!
Trying to find a good training tire that wont break the bank, good flat protection, last a while, etc. I'll save my fancy wheels for the go fast days 8)
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I'm sorry to post this here but I can't continue enjoying my Velobuild bike since the rear wheel (not the tire) blew in a downhill at 55KPH. I managed to save it since I was already on the brakes and it was straight line.
Bike and wheels have only been used for 350Kms on asphalt (I'm around 85Kg these days, and use 90PSI)
The wheelset was also built by Velobuild, so no, I cannot recommend them
Not only I'm concerned about the front wheel that is still there and a catastrophic failure won't be as easy to handle.
WARRANTY?
Furthermore, This happened 10 days ago, I collected the pictures and send them to Velobuild, they said it was caused by an accident that never happened (the bike is in pristine condition and I sent pictures from both sides).
If you check the pictures, the cracks start at the nipples.
After 8 days and more pictures and silence radio, they don't honor any sort of warranty... They are barely offering half price on a rim (same "quality" plus I'd need to build it/get it built).
I'm bewildered: Half price of a rim vs the chances for me to die/go to the hospital.
So Velobuild, is adding to the poor rim quality or wheel construction, an abysmal after sales service.
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How about the bb tolerances on this frame? Any creaking with bb86 installed?
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@slosada I hope this gets resolved, but I think you'd be better off starting your own thread with your experiences.
How about the bb tolerances on this frame? Any creaking with bb86 installed?
My bb86 to GXP has not creaked at all. I only have 158 miles on mine, so take that with a grain of salt if you want, but I would say its A+.
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How about the bb tolerances on this frame? Any creaking with bb86 installed?
I run a Wheels MFG threaded BB86 bottom bracket. No creaking.
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@slosada I hope this gets resolved, but I think you'd be better off starting your own thread with your experiences.
My bb86 to GXP has not creaked at all. I only have 158 miles on mine, so take that with a grain of salt if you want, but I would say its A+.
I agree with you but, since I had participated exclusively in this thread, I thought it would be good to keep all together.
But yeah, I will open a thread.
I find no pleasure claiming a warranty, less so bashing a company from which I still have the frame and parts.
Also, there must be a lesson learned for all: Don't take the quality and warranty for granted
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I agree with you but, since I had participated exclusively in this thread, I thought it would be good to keep all together.
But yeah, I will open a thread.
I find no pleasure claiming a warranty, less so bashing a company from which I still have the frame and parts.
Also, there must be a lesson learned for all: Don't take the quality and warranty for granted
You're using GP5000 TL ... are you running them with tube or tubeless? If tubeless, 90PSI is a really bad idea and can contribute to this kind of failure.
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I agree with you but, since I had participated exclusively in this thread, I thought it would be good to keep all together.
But yeah, I will open a thread.
I find no pleasure claiming a warranty, less so bashing a company from which I still have the frame and parts.
Also, there must be a lesson learned for all: Don't take the quality and warranty for granted
Maybe give some more info so we can make our own conclusions.
Is the rim hookless?
What version GP5000 are you using? Is it hookless compatible?
Are you running tubes or tubeless?
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Would be great if that new thread could be created…
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How about the bb tolerances on this frame? Any creaking with bb86 installed?
I use a standard Ultegra BB86 (BB72-41? Something like that). I’m not one to really track every mile I ride but I’ve probably averaged about 75-100 a week since January and have no issues to report.
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You're using GP5000 TL ... are you running them with tube or tubeless? If tubeless, 90PSI is a really bad idea and can contribute to this kind of failure.
I have/had tubes in them.
90PSI is exactly what my current weight requires, when I select "mid range tire with butyl tubes" and worn pavement. If I pick high performance casing tubeless (which GP5000 TL most likely is), it says 95.5PSI
Pressure is prob. not the reason: For once I have ridden in warmer days and for longer. This happened after 86Kms, not at the beginning. I use 90PSI tubeless in my other bike.
Rims were ordered tubeless.
To the other poster, they are hooked.
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Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off
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Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off
Not that I'm aware of. At $499 + shipping it's a solid deal as is, and probably not much "room" for discounts. Then again I could be wrong...
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I have/had tubes in them.
90PSI is exactly what my current weight requires, when I select "mid range tire with butyl tubes" and worn pavement. If I pick high performance casing tubeless (which GP5000 TL most likely is), it says 95.5PSI
Pressure is prob. not the reason: For once I have ridden in warmer days and for longer. This happened after 86Kms, not at the beginning. I use 90PSI tubeless in my other bike.
Rims were ordered tubeless.
To the other poster, they are hooked.
Imagine if it had been the front wheel. Could the tires not been seated properly? Did you buy them on Aliexpress?
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Imagine if it had been the front wheel. Could the tires not been seated properly? Did you buy them on Aliexpress?
Nope and nope.
You would feel or see a bump in the tire. It had an inner tube.
Bought straight from Velobuild in the same order. In fact, the different hub and spokes delayed the bike delivery (80 days total).
I won't use the front wheel anymore. It's the same materials and same builder.
Apart from the poor quality, what should be a concern for everyone is the abysmal after sales support... Also Paypal won't protect you in cases of low quality and not honored warranty.
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Sorry to take this long to reply.
I have not cut the compression ring yet, I just need to shave 1MM from the top, have no clue how I should cut it.
I used the Deda spacers.
I will post a video tomorrow of the setup and show you why the compression needs to be cut a bit
I was never really comfortable with the bike after the headset issues. Decided to change with either the Acr or the Superbox, decided for the Superbox because of the option running a semi integrated solution for for easier bike maintenance and travelling with the bike. The post from Liter took me over the line.
Happy with the result so far, everything sits tight.
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Anyone know if Velobuild has discount codes? Like some influencers get on for example elite wheels, from trace velo you could get 15% off
Likely not for your first purchase. Chris will pobably hook you up with a bit of a discount if you're a repeat customer and ask nicely. Much less than 15%, the prices are already quite low.
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I understand.
Any of you running mechanical gears with internal routing in handlebar/stem having problems with shifting?
There will obviously be some pretty sharp bends on the cable.
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I understand.
Any of you running mechanical gears with internal routing in handlebar/stem having problems with shifting?
There will obviously be some pretty sharp bends on the cable.
Most people in here are running mechanical shifting. Quality shift cables/housing and proper installation, and you should never ever have a problem with shifting with internal routing.
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Nope and nope.
You would feel or see a bump in the tire. It had an inner tube.
Bought straight from Velobuild in the same order. In fact, the different hub and spokes delayed the bike delivery (80 days total).
I won't use the front wheel anymore. It's the same materials and same builder.
Apart from the poor quality, what should be a concern for everyone is the abysmal after sales support... Also Paypal won't protect you in cases of low quality and not honored warranty.
Agree no worth the risk, let us know if they get back on the issue.
I was never really comfortable with the bike after the headset issues. Decided to change with either the Acr or the Superbox, decided for the Superbox because of the option running a semi integrated solution for for easier bike maintenance and travelling with the bike. The post from Liter took me over the line.
Happy with the result so far, everything sits tight.
Cool! Have been using this combo for 3 months and still happy with the result
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Hi all,
New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.
(https://i.imgur.com/P24Maz9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c0HJE6Z.jpg)
1. The main problem is that under braking, the steering seems to lock up. On inspection of the headset, it seems there is contact between the back of the fork crown and the head tube, and also the top headset bearing cap and the front of the top of the head tube. It's like the bearings have been set too far inside the head tube. Because the bearings don't contact on the flat faces, but on the chamfered inner and outer races, it's not possible to put a simple spacer in to lift them. Chris at VB has said he's sending me some new headset bearings, which are presumably taller/thicker, but this seems a bit of a bodge to fix poor moulding alignment.
(https://i.imgur.com/iZ4Aaeo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CaHHyQV.jpg)
2. The integrated one-piece stem/handlebar is ridiculously flexible. Admittedly it's hard to notice whilst riding, but even a small amount of force downwards on the hoods or drops gives >10mm movement. I'm not sure I trust these bars! It's probably due to the very thin aero middle section of the bars, the skinny stem which accomodates the cables, and possibly the short amount of contact with the steerer. And possibly the fact that they are cheaply made with too much focus on weight saving. I'm not impressed, but also can't quite face spending hundreds on something from a 'western' brand. I have the 100mm x 400mm set and could probably do with something a bit shorter, so will probably swap it before too long (if I keep the bike and can fix the problem above).
3. This one is probably my fault. I chose the bike size based on ETT, without really paying too much attention to the very low top tube and short head tube. I'm 5'8 and picked the Small (54cm ett). I have a lot of seatpost sticking out - about 15mm more than the minimum insertion. So whilst it's got more than the minimum insertion, it does look a bit odd and like I maybe should have got the Medium size and run a ~70mm stem.
Cheers,
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Hi all,
New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.
I like the colour of the bike, looks great.
On advise of forum member Liter I installed a DEDA Superbox stem on the 177. It allows you for full integration or you can alternatively run the cables under the handlebar.
I haven't regret it since, feel much saver and very happy with the result. The initial play in the headset is completely gone.
I'm still running the original bar, but I'm looking to replace that as well in the near future.
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Hi all,
New to this form, and joined as this thread has been pretty useful whilst I've been putting together my new 177. Unfortunately I have a had a few issues with it, and would be grateful for any comments or thoughts.
(https://i.imgur.com/P24Maz9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c0HJE6Z.jpg)
1. The main problem is that under braking, the steering seems to lock up. On inspection of the headset, it seems there is contact between the back of the fork crown and the head tube, and also the top headset bearing cap and the front of the top of the head tube. It's like the bearings have been set too far inside the head tube. Because the bearings don't contact on the flat faces, but on the chamfered inner and outer races, it's not possible to put a simple spacer in to lift them. Chris at VB has said he's sending me some new headset bearings, which are presumably taller/thicker, but this seems a bit of a bodge to fix poor moulding alignment.
(https://i.imgur.com/iZ4Aaeo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CaHHyQV.jpg)
2. The integrated one-piece stem/handlebar is ridiculously flexible. Admittedly it's hard to notice whilst riding, but even a small amount of force downwards on the hoods or drops gives >10mm movement. I'm not sure I trust these bars! It's probably due to the very thin aero middle section of the bars, the skinny stem which accomodates the cables, and possibly the short amount of contact with the steerer. And possibly the fact that they are cheaply made with too much focus on weight saving. I'm not impressed, but also can't quite face spending hundreds on something from a 'western' brand. I have the 100mm x 400mm set and could probably do with something a bit shorter, so will probably swap it before too long (if I keep the bike and can fix the problem above).
3. This one is probably my fault. I chose the bike size based on ETT, without really paying too much attention to the very low top tube and short head tube. I'm 5'8 and picked the Small (54cm ett). I have a lot of seatpost sticking out - about 15mm more than the minimum insertion. So whilst it's got more than the minimum insertion, it does look a bit odd and like I maybe should have got the Medium size and run a ~70mm stem.
Cheers,
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This problem is common with custom painted frames. Extra coat of paint reduces / closes the gap between the headset and frame body. Most times you then need to add washers to raise the headset from rubbing the top tube. The bottom of the headtube rubbing the fork will definitely need a taller bottom bearing.
Good VB agreed to send new taller headset bearings.
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Should be picking this up in the next 48 hours! I just need to put on a rear mount, I assumed I could bolt the sram one right to the frame like my old bike!
Hi,
Just a question: which head set model did you use?
Thanks
Gigi
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Hi,
Just a question: which head set model did you use?
Thanks
Gigi
I used the FSA 55R 1.5 ACR headset: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/headset-spares/no-55r-1-5-acr
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Thanks a lot.
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Good VB agreed to send new taller headset bearings.
Still nothing received though and the bike's not rideable. I'd not be recommending velobuild to anyone at the moment.
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Still nothing received though and the bike's not rideable. I'd not be recommending velobuild to anyone at the moment.
Have you considered buying taller bearings online? Should only cost about $20 and would arrive much faster.
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Have you considered buying taller bearings online? Should only cost about $20 and would arrive much faster.
My bike was un-ridable as well, very carefully re-installing the headset gave some improvements but it got worse again after time and I think it was really unsafe.
I decided to by a new headset (Deda Superbox). I still used the same bearings. In my opinion it was the new C-ring that solved the problem.
No play at all anymore.
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I was never really comfortable with the bike after the headset issues. Decided to change with either the Acr or the Superbox, decided for the Superbox because of the option running a semi integrated solution for for easier bike maintenance and travelling with the bike. The post from Liter took me over the line.
Happy with the result so far, everything sits tight.
It is very good.
Just a question: is the top bearing of the head set 36°x45° version?
Thanks
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I have some thoughts swirling around in my head regarding my 177 and thought this would be a good place to vent and brainstorm :) I want to do a 180 change with my whole bike stable (all of 2 bikes, lol) and the 177 is at the center of it all.
It all starts here: I currently own a Velobuild 177 and an alloy Poseidon X gravel bike with a SRAM mullet setup. What I really, really want is a shiny new rim brake road bike to complement these two but I only have enough space for 2 bikes (just 1 really, I make it work), so one has to go. I really, really want to keep my 177, but also really want a versatile wider tire bike in my 2 bike stable that gives me the flexibility and some of the all-road funsies I get from a true gravel bike.
My thought process goes something like this:
1. Put gravel bike up for sale
2. Start shopping for rim brake frame or full bike (oh the possibilities ;D ;D ;D ;D)
3. convert 177 to some kind of all-road light-gravely kinda commuter cx bike thing with a 1x mullet setup and increased tire clearance
4. Purchase shiny new rim brake road bike
Now, the mullet conversion for the 177 is simple as I'm already running a SRAM 22 mashup. I would replicate what I run on the X: Apex/Rival/Force 1 derailleur with Garbaruk mod, 42 tooth chainring, 11-50 cassette, Gravelking SS tires and we're good to go. Maybe even a Ratio Technology kit and a 10-44 or 10-50 to go 12 speed. Tire clearance is the issue. I think the rear tire is not a big problem as my current tires balloon up to at least 31mm and there's maybe 4mm clearance on either side. The fork clearance is the issue, as we are all too well aware. That leads me to ask, has anyone experimented with a different fork on any of your road bikes? On a Velobuild? I'm considering seeking out a fork with a bit more tire clearance and sticking it on the 177 to fix my dilemma. Any suggestions/advice? FWIW my Poseidon X actually has a fork that originally belonged to a Trek Checkpoint and it all works together fine, but that conversion wasn't concerning as it's gravel bike - gravel bike and all dimensions are pretty similar.
The easy thing to do would be to sell the 177 and keep the X, but I'm more attached to the 177 and would prefer to have 2 carbon bikes. What do y'all think? 35mm clearance would be sick. Time to go down the rabbit hole...any suggestions, advice, stern words of disapproval, etc. welcomed!
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Sell the 177 frame (Pennies to the dollar) and get a 168.
Having just finished building my 168 and confirming it can fit 32c tires, it’s gonna be used for my endurance/adventure/Roubaix bike. I’ll basically only now need my gravel bike for actual proper gravel.
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Sell the 177 frame (Pennies to the dollar) and get a 168.
Having just finished building my 168 and confirming it can fit 32c tires, it’s gonna be used for my endurance/adventure/Roubaix bike. I’ll basically only now need my gravel bike for actual proper gravel.
how is the ride feel of the 168 and the weight compared to 177?
I almost wanted to buy a set of 650B wheels to see if I could get some 35c tires on the 177, but I don´t think a 650B wheel would provide much differnce and I don´t want to wast money on things I´m not sure it works.
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I have some thoughts swirling around in my head regarding my 177 and thought this would be a good place to vent and brainstorm :) I want to do a 180 change with my whole bike stable (all of 2 bikes, lol) and the 177 is at the center of it all.
It all starts here: I currently own a Velobuild 177 and an alloy Poseidon X gravel bike with a SRAM mullet setup. What I really, really want is a shiny new rim brake road bike to complement these two but I only have enough space for 2 bikes (just 1 really, I make it work), so one has to go. I really, really want to keep my 177, but also really want a versatile wider tire bike in my 2 bike stable that gives me the flexibility and some of the all-road funsies I get from a true gravel bike.
My thought process goes something like this:
1. Put gravel bike up for sale
2. Start shopping for rim brake frame or full bike (oh the possibilities ;D ;D ;D ;D)
3. convert 177 to some kind of all-road light-gravely kinda commuter cx bike thing with a 1x mullet setup and increased tire clearance
4. Purchase shiny new rim brake road bike
Now, the mullet conversion for the 177 is simple as I'm already running a SRAM 22 mashup. I would replicate what I run on the X: Apex/Rival/Force 1 derailleur with Garbaruk mod, 42 tooth chainring, 11-50 cassette, Gravelking SS tires and we're good to go. Maybe even a Ratio Technology kit and a 10-44 or 10-50 to go 12 speed. Tire clearance is the issue. I think the rear tire is not a big problem as my current tires balloon up to at least 31mm and there's maybe 4mm clearance on either side. The fork clearance is the issue, as we are all too well aware. That leads me to ask, has anyone experimented with a different fork on any of your road bikes? On a Velobuild? I'm considering seeking out a fork with a bit more tire clearance and sticking it on the 177 to fix my dilemma. Any suggestions/advice? FWIW my Poseidon X actually has a fork that originally belonged to a Trek Checkpoint and it all works together fine, but that conversion wasn't concerning as it's gravel bike - gravel bike and all dimensions are pretty similar.
The easy thing to do would be to sell the 177 and keep the X, but I'm more attached to the 177 and would prefer to have 2 carbon bikes. What do y'all think? 35mm clearance would be sick. Time to go down the rabbit hole...any suggestions, advice, stern words of disapproval, etc. welcomed!
Not an expert here but here is an opinion:
The best option would be trying to find a fork that is compatible with 177
Thinking outside the box: An alternative (depending on crank length, and fitting in general) riding 650b
That being said, I find misleading advertising that 177 is sold as 32mm, but barely fits some 30mm tires (this was a main selection factor for me, so I could ride light gravel come October/November)
Not sure I would buy or recommend another Velobuild to anyone.
Now, regarding a rim brake road bike. My main concern is: When you want to buy a cheap frame, the carbon rim brake performance is abysmal at the equivalent price range. Either you go for alloy or you spend big bucks on good carbon wheelset.
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I wish i was easy enough to sell the 177 frame! I too am a little chapped it doesnt fit a 32mm wide tire...
I also don't like the width of the handlebar (says 40cm but it feels more like a 42, reach is a little longer than i expected) and it may be easier for me to just sell the frameset/fork/stems/bar and get the frame that fits my needs instead of just swapping the bar and spending all that money/time in order to still not fit a 32mm tire.
I know it isn't a china frame and its double te price, but I've really been looking at the Black Heart Bike Company Aluminum frame, seems to tick all my boxes too...
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To be totally fair, I have very few if any complaints about the 177, tire size not excluded. I'm not at all peeved about the tire clearance as this move is more prompted by me never being happy with my bike stable. The 177 was a perfect fit back in November ;D
I've always said that VB doesn't even clearly advertise this frame as fitting 32c tires. They simply state 32mm as the maximum tire clearance. Based on my measurements this is true. My tires balloon up to 31.8mm with certain psi numbers and I have no clearance issues. A truly sized 32mm tire should have no issues with clearance.
So true that selling the 177 frame or shelving it would be the best solution, but selling an open mold frame on its own is easier said than done. Maybe a VB gravel frame would be a better alternative, but I'd rather make the 177 work. Now, if anyone is interested in a size M frame with 420x100 one piece bar do let me know ;D ;D
650b is an interesting idea... I'd rather keep my current wheels, but I'll definitely look into this.
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I wish i was easy enough to sell the 177 frame! I too am a little chapped it doesnt fit a 32mm wide tire...
I also don't like the width of the handlebar (says 40cm but it feels more like a 42, reach is a little longer than i expected) and it may be easier for me to just sell the frameset/fork/stems/bar and get the frame that fits my needs instead of just swapping the bar and spending all that money/time in order to still not fit a 32mm tire.
I know it isn't a china frame and its double te price, but I've really been looking at the Black Heart Bike Company Aluminum frame, seems to tick all my boxes too...
Eh sometimes an expensive branded bike is what makes us happy :)
If/when I realize my rim brake dreams it may not be an open mold either...considering some open mold frames along with some other options like Winspace offerings, Bianchi Sprint, Felt FR1 Giant TCR among some others. There's also some alloy/steel bikes out there that look interesting from Masi, Fuji, State, Cannondale, etc. Will be sure to take a look at Blackheart!
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It is very good.
Just a question: is the top bearing of the head set 36°x45° version?
Thanks
I honestly don't know, used the existing bearings and the rest that came with the Deda Superbox stem (integrated topcap, headset spacers en topcover for the headtube 56mm & 46mm, D-clip insert.
I saw you can pick them up with big discounts at the moment here in Europe.
Best upgrade to VB-R-177 so far.
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Sell the 177 frame (Pennies to the dollar) and get a 168.
Having just finished building my 168 and confirming it can fit 32c tires, it’s gonna be used for my endurance/adventure/Roubaix bike. I’ll basically only now need my gravel bike for actual proper gravel.
hmm tbh i wouldnt personally recommend the 168 as an 'all-road' fun bike for everyone just because it can fit wide tyres. @patliean i guess you must be quite comfortable riding bikes with an aggressive-ish racey geometry but i dont think it would be suitable for everyone.
i had the same thought when i was buying my 168 too. but now that i have it, i dont think i would enjoy taking it off road for any more than one hour hahaha
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ya, both these bikes wouldn't make great "gravel" bikes, but could handle some tame stuff, say 90% road 10% dirt/gravel. i enjoy "underbiking" so i was really hoping to get a 32mm wide tire on it to tackle some different stuff, and also be super comfy for long training rides.
makes me wonder what would actually fit my needs now; 32mm wide tire, road geometry, discs...
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Does anyone know where to source the thru axle end caps?
Now that I bought new wheels I wanted to take the shitty ones out, but the front thru Axle end cap was somehow stuck and it finally broke.
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Does anyone know where to source the thru axle end caps?
Now that I bought new wheels I wanted to take the shitty ones out, but the front thru Axle end cap was somehow stuck and it finally broke.
Mine also broke. I kept forgetting it was there and would pop it off by removing the axle with the end cap still attached. Eventually it broke, I lost it, and have been riding without it ever since
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Mine also broke. I kept forgetting it was there and would pop it off by removing the axle with the end cap still attached. Eventually it broke, I lost it, and have been riding without it ever since
LOL I had literally the same problem. Looks quite ugly without endcap.
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LOL I had literally the same problem. Looks quite ugly without endcap.
I painted the ugly exposed area that the end cap covers up black with an acrylic marker and it looks ever so slightly better :D
I wouldn't be surprised if it's starts coming off when I clean it and such.
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Hi all, I am building a VBR177 and I have couple of issues with handlebar and headsets. I'd like to understand if anyone encountered the same issues.
The fork has exceeding painting, so that the bearings seems to not sit properly:
(https://i.postimg.cc/kVFy8WqB/1661367115721.png) (https://postimg.cc/kVFy8WqB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJqrf2Fk/1661367220819.png) (https://postimg.cc/hJqrf2Fk)
Furthermore, it seems that the headset cover is not properly covering the top bearing, leaving a 1.3mm of space where water and dust could easily get to the bearing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kRt6NdKf/1661423864829.png) (https://postimg.cc/kRt6NdKf)
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the headset cap looked like that for me too, this is what the FSA and FSA Bearings one looks like:
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Looks like the top and bottom bearings are taller bearings than usual for the 177.
Some other person here got way shorter bearings and hence rubbing between the frame and fork.
The top looks ok and will probably have less chance of rubbing on the top tube.
What did velobuild say when you sent them the pictures?
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What did velobuild say when you sent them the pictures?
they asked for pictures, but they are not really helpful so far. I also have an issue with the handlebar, it only has one hole (out of two) to engage the spacers. They say the hole has been accidentally filled with painting, so I should drill it. But I am a mechanic, not a frame builder nor a painter. They should provide a working handlebar, since I paid for a working one...
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Question to people who own both 177 and 168 frames — have you noticed significant differences in stiffness, stability, handling or overall speed between the two?
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(https://imgflip.com/i/6rccer)
I wrote Velobuild highlighting this issue with the VBR177, they answered "drill it". I knew they lacked quality controls, but still...
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(https://imgflip.com/i/6rccer)
I wrote Velobuild highlighting this issue with the VBR177, they answered "drill it". I knew they lacked quality controls, but still...
Honestly, I have seen this "type of answer" with almost EVERY Chinese (China) sellers. It's lack of quality control , which you should have been aware of; and it's also normally that "everything is negotiable" . Also, remember QC is by sampling , not 100% !! No companies do 100% QC.
I had some issues with my trifox parts , useable but since it's new, I wasn't happy, so I reached out, got a similar response. Spoke to them professionally and they replied professionally, negotiated for a slight discount on replacement on the basis that I get to keep the old one. Used it till the replacement came, and sold it as used with minor cosmetic damage... Broke even on money side of things, and get a "friend" in Trifox.
Had some issues when I bought Sensah OSPW from Sensah , in their case, they wanted me to give a good review before they would even consider resolving the issues. I refused to be blackmail into a 5 star review before they would even "discussing" the resolution, and also they probably will not resolve it subsequently.... so gave them a 1-star.... but it does meant they ignore me. LOL..
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Most budget brands from the Far East should be treated as stepping stones rather than final destinations.
It's a great way to gain valuable bike building experience, before naturally progressing to the bike you actually want...
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Honestly, I have seen this "type of answer" with almost EVERY Chinese (China) sellers. It's lack of quality control , which you should have been aware of; and it's also normally that "everything is negotiable" . Also, remember QC is by sampling , not 100% !! No companies do 100% QC.
I had some issues with my trifox parts , useable but since it's new, I wasn't happy, so I reached out, got a similar response. Spoke to them professionally and they replied professionally, negotiated for a slight discount on replacement on the basis that I get to keep the old one. Used it till the replacement came, and sold it as used with minor cosmetic damage... Broke even on money side of things, and get a "friend" in Trifox.
Had some issues when I bought Sensah OSPW from Sensah , in their case, they wanted me to give a good review before they would even consider resolving the issues. I refused to be blackmail into a 5 star review before they would even "discussing" the resolution, and also they probably will not resolve it subsequently.... so gave them a 1-star.... but it does meant they ignore me. LOL..
I had the handlebar drilled by a local hardware shop, and Velobuild refunded me with the amount I spent for that work (25€). In the end, they did their best to solve the issue from there.
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I finished my VB-R-177 build yesterday. With Shimano 105 and DT Swiss 470 rims on Prime hubs, it's not super-light, coming in at 7.5kg.
Issues:
- the handlebar channels for concealed cables are very tight
- very difficult to mount the headset assembly with concealed cables and avoid headset play
- matt back paint is not even across the whole frame
Other than that, I'm pretty happy. This is my training bike, not for racing.
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I finished my VB-R-177 build yesterday. With Shimano 105 and DT Swiss 470 rims on Prime hubs, it's not super-light, coming in at 7.5kg.
Issues:
- the handlebar channels for concealed cables are very tight
- very difficult to mount the headset assembly with concealed cables and avoid headset play
- matt back paint is not even across the whole frame
Other than that, I'm pretty happy. This is my training bike, not for racing.
Very respectable weight!!! Congratulations.
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Most budget brands from the Far East should be treated as stepping stones rather than final destinations.
It's a great way to gain valuable bike building experience, before naturally progressing to the bike you actually want...
Time out even the budget bikes can be final destinations. It depends. If you are just riding for fun and exercise and not racing. A budget carbon bike is still a lot of bike for your money. As long as you have done your homework. You can end up with a final destination bike your first time. And that wasn't a joke about their safety.
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The fork has exceeding painting, so that the bearings seems to not sit properly:
The bearings which sit on an integrated crown race don't necessarily sit flush against the flat shoulder of the fork. If when you put the fork + bearing into the frame it leaves an appropriate sized gap between frame and fork its probably correct. Having the bearing sit across a paint line is sub-optimal though.
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The bearings which sit on an integrated crown race don't necessarily sit flush against the flat shoulder of the fork. If when you put the fork + bearing into the frame it leaves an appropriate sized gap between frame and fork its probably correct. Having the bearing sit across a paint line is sub-optimal though.
I mean the headtube and fork dont necessarily need the highest tolerance and alignment for fitting like the BBs do. As we arent worried about friction so much here. But going for the most optimal fit would improve the quality of the ride.
Unless its sooo out of angular alignment that it causes it to become unsafe.
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hello friends, I have the velobuild 177 frame with hb010 handlebar. since the shape of the handlebar is strange and I am long on the controls, do you recommend a good handlebar that I can buy to replace the hb011? I found this. okay in your opinion? it mounts ??
https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600457733782/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal.html?spm=a2756.order--detail--ta--bn--b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I&tp1=1120624&src=saf&tp2=106765&lctid=1120624&xp=pUQuoHQUjTbFDpK--g--MSSm_ZyblJpI7wLFCPZqhY20wjhsMC7zEkS--HNs_w__pMBdHQV9xmPI04YZ9xNLYFuCyoxdhFhMHGyGvDGjuNqgAk&pid=39902&bm=cps&cps_sk=va4oaig9&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.alibaba.com%2Fproduct--detail%2FT1000--Carbon--Bike--Handlebar--Fully--Internal_1600457733782.html%3Fspm%3Da2756.order--detail--ta--bn--b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I%26lctid%3D1120624&redirect=1
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I decided to retire my VB-168 frameset and rebuild my VB-177. My current fleet is already filled with aero bikes that I ultimately prefer, and I just found myself not really liking the 168 even for what it is.
Now having ridden the 168 and 177 back to back, I think the 177 might be the better value.
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Just watched your video, I really wish this frame worked for me with the wider tires! The black heart all road isn’t as aggressive but I’m enjoying it!
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I decided to retire my VB-168 frameset and rebuild my VB-177. My current fleet is already filled with aero bikes that I ultimately prefer, and I just found myself not really liking the 168 even for what it is.
Now having ridden the 168 and 177 back to back, I think the 177 might be the better value.
That's interesting. The descriptions on VB say both are "2021" frames, but only the 177 talks about carbon (T1000) and build tech (EPS & latex moulding). The 168 just says nothing. That would support the theory that the layup / build quality on the 177 is better.
I was assuming the 168 would be stiffer because of its shape, but you're saying the 177 is in fact stiffer and just rides better?
You're clearly a specialized fanboy, how did the 168 disappoint? I realize your Allez Sprint is not the geometry of an SL7, but it's fairly close. You're saying you could tell them apart?
Did you measure the weight difference between the 2 frames?
Can you fit 32mm on the 177?
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You're clearly a specialized fanboy
I chuckled at this statement, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt because you're new here.
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I chuckled at this statement, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt because you're new here.
Sorry, English isn't my first language. That was not criticism, I really thought you do love Specialized!
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Can you fit 32mm on the 177?
I was able to clear 32mm measured in the rear, but not in the front. Super disappointed.
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Quick update on the latest iteration of my 177 ;D
She's now running a full SRAM Red 22 groupset instead of the mashup of SRAM parts+105 crankset I had before.
- Running a short cage RD with an 11-28 cassette. Anyone else using Red 22 cassettes? My old Force 22 cassette is definitely quieter...
- Sram Red 22 crankset (GXP 167.5mm) with Absolute Black 50/34 chainrings, 4iiii left side PM, and Wheels MFG BB.
- Velobuild saddle replaces the old Prologo. SMP copy I've dubbed the banana saddle, I sometimes wish it had a bit more padding but overall very comfortable.
- AliExpress straight seatpost. Elita One brand if I'm remembering correctly. It's just barely long enough, but a good option if you're looking for a cheap ($30) and lightweight (130g) straight round post.
- SRAM Centerline rotors replace the old Deckas lightweight rotors. These are significantly heavier than the old ones and performance isn't really any "better", but they look much cooler :)
- Swapping between a Red 22 and a KMC X11EL gold chain. They're both good, but I think I liked the old Dura Ace chain just a hair more. It was a little quieter than both of these, but not as durable and removing/replacing the Shimano quick link was a huge pain.
As you see it, the bike is about 7.6kg
So all that being said, there will be another overhaul coming soon! I'm not really digging the 11-28 gearing and setting up the FD to work well with AB chainrings is easier said than done...this has me wanting to try out 1x. I have an AB 48t 1x ring coming in today and I'll be swapping to the old RD with 11-36 cassette. If all goes well, I'll commit to the 1x setup and splurge on a Ratio 12 Speed kit along with a 10-36 cassette and 46t chainring in the future. I also have new wheels, tires and bars coming in soon. Once all that has arrived I'll be taking the bike apart for a major cleaning and repainting. More updates coming soon! ;D
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Update on my Velobuild vb-r-177 build.
- Locked in steerer and headset finally so there is no play and no excessive tightness with the concealed cables
- Locked in seatpost so there is minimal turning when bolt tightened, but it is still slightly loose
- 8.2kg overall weight
- DT Swiss 470 rims and 28mm tubeless tyres (Pirelli p-Zero), 160mm discs
- Shimano 105 R7020 group
This feels stiffer than my 2012 Venge and just as aero. Very smooth on the flat and I'm climbing better.
No creaks or cracks. Good riding positions on the integrated handlebars.
Would like to get the seatpost issue fixed.
If I could be bothered putting lighter wheels on, this would be my best bike ever.
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I think the 177 might be VeloBuild's best frameset offering:
-Sub 1000g painted without derailleur hanger, braze on, or plastic grommets.
-T1000 carbon, lighter yet stiffer than T700/800.
-EPS molding.
-Traditional seatpost.
-(Subjectively) classic frame design.
-Stiff enough for climbing, while the seatpost offers compliancy.
My size Medium frame with Farsports Ventoux C4 wheels comes in at 7.3kg without pedals. And if I were to swap those out for my set of Elite Drive 45D w/ latex tubes I could easily get the bike down to 7.1kg - Crazy to think a $500 frame with a hydraulic disc groupset could be that lightweight.
Few things keeping the 177 from being perfect, that I'd like to see VeloBuild sort out. But for $500 I know they wont:
-Redesigning and/or relocating on the front derailleur opening/cable stop.
-Redesigning the stem and top cap for the separate stem/bar combo option.
-Redesigning the saddle rail clamp. There's no easy or logical method to tightening top bolt for the clamp if your saddle does not have cut away/hole/pressure relief channel.
I suspect that even as new designs get released from major brands, which VeloBuild will inevitably copy, VeloBuild will always have a market for the 177.
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My 177 is on the way.
Full build incl. pedals should be just slighty over 7 Kg.
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Hey so this is my first time posting on this forum and I don't quite know how this works but I'll give it a shot. I bought a VBR 177 and I'm currently in the middle of building it up with a sram force etap axs group.
But for the life of me i cant figure out what the right bottom bracket is. I ordered the sram dub bb86 and installed normal sized cranks but they are rubbing on the frame. When I look at the wide variations they all look the same. Does anyone know what the right BB for SRAM groupsets on this frame is? I would appreciate any help i get, its also my first time building a bike so thanks all for all the help so far!
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Hey so this is my first time posting on this forum and I don't quite know how this works but I'll give it a shot. I bought a VBR 177 and I'm currently in the middle of building it up with a sram force etap axs group.
But for the life of me i cant figure out what the right bottom bracket is. I ordered the sram dub bb86 and installed normal sized cranks but they are rubbing on the frame. When I look at the wide variations they all look the same. Does anyone know what the right BB for SRAM groupsets on this frame is? I would appreciate any help i get, its also my first time building a bike so thanks all for all the help so far!
did you put the spacer on as well?
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did you put the spacer on as well?
I don think so. I believe the BB came with one spacer? Is this supposed to go on the crank side? Sorry for the questions. Big newbie.
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Not sure if you are with a SRAM DUB BB but here is a document that explains spacer details for road and MTB
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/dub-mtb-and-road-cranksets-and-bottom-brackets-user-manual.pdf
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thanks you guys really helped managed to fit the crank normally and it woeks now. Now im just trying to figure out if i can run these 28mm tires on this frame? anyone else with super tight clearances? is this normal?
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thanks you guys really helped managed to fit the crank normally and it woeks now. Now im just trying to figure out if i can run these 28mm tires on this frame? anyone else with super tight clearances? is this normal?
Definitely something wrong if those are 28s ... frame is supposed to fit 32s, some people have fit CX33s and I seem to recall there've been a few 34s. So unless you're running super wide MTB rims, something isn't right.
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Definitely something wrong if those are 28s ... frame is supposed to fit 32s, some people have fit CX33s and I seem to recall there've been a few 34s. So unless you're running super wide MTB rims, something isn't right.
These are winspace wheels, d45 and schwalbe tyres… 28mm, i dont get how its so different from what others have been saying… makes no sense
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The 28s may be wider on that rim. Bust out the calipers.
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Slowly getting there, what do you guys think? Should be enough clearance right? Also i ordered the wrong casette because turns out I have a shortcage derailleur that goes for a 10-33, luckily for me I ordered a 10-34 casette so thats getting replaced.
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What was your solution regarding using crank spacers with your SRAM rival/DUB crankset?
I have a spare SRAM eTap groupset that I’m considering putting on my 177.
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Slowly getting there, what do you guys think? Should be enough clearance right?
That looks better than your previous photo. The first looked like 2mm clearance. This looks more like 8mm. Are they the same 28mm tyres? If so, what did you change?
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Slowly getting there, what do you guys think? Should be enough clearance right? Also i ordered the wrong casette because turns out I have a shortcage derailleur that goes for a 10-33, luckily for me I ordered a 10-34 casette so thats getting replaced.
Ohhh this build is gonna look good with all the parts so far!!
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That looks better than your previous photo. The first looked like 2mm clearance. This looks more like 8mm. Are they the same 28mm tyres? If so, what did you change?
i changed the angle of the picture hahahaha did the trick
the dub bb works, not the smoothst bb compared to my other bike which has a bb30 but hey. there should be enough clearance from the frame but i do think that dub wide and wide cranks might fit this frame slightly better than what i got. also mounting the front derailler was super annoying with the braze on for some reason. getting it aligned was near impossible
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I think the 177 might be VeloBuild's best frameset offering:
-Sub 1000g painted without derailleur hanger, braze on, or plastic grommets.
-T1000 carbon, lighter yet stiffer than T700/800.
-EPS molding.
-Traditional seatpost.
-(Subjectively) classic frame design.
-Stiff enough for climbing, while the seatpost offers compliancy.
My size Medium frame with Farsports Ventoux C4 wheels comes in at 7.3kg without pedals. And if I were to swap those out for my set of Elite Drive 45D w/ latex tubes I could easily get the bike down to 7.1kg - Crazy to think a $500 frame with a hydraulic disc groupset could be that lightweight.
Few things keeping the 177 from being perfect, that I'd like to see VeloBuild sort out. But for $500 I know they wont:
-Redesigning and/or relocating on the front derailleur opening/cable stop.
-Redesigning the stem and top cap for the separate stem/bar combo option.
-Redesigning the saddle rail clamp. There's no easy or logical method to tightening top bolt for the clamp if your saddle does not have cut away/hole/pressure relief channel.
I suspect that even as new designs get released from major brands, which VeloBuild will inevitably copy, VeloBuild will always have a market for the 177.
How did you get the bike so light? I´m running Elite wheels with DT240 hubs, Ultegra R8000, GP5000TL 28 Tires and the bike is around 8.3KG
I do think the mechanic went overboard with sealant, might be able to drop 100g there
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How did you get the bike so light?
Frame w/ paint is less than 1000g - In retrospect I should have ordered an unpainted raw carbon frame.
Elite Drive 45D wheels are 1288g
OG Evkin carbon stem is 122g
Fully carbon saddle, no padding is 100g
Latex tubes...you get the point.
Keep in mind weight is without bottle cages, pedals, or wahoo mount.
I'm also considering going 1x - Removing the front derailleur, small chainring, and shifting cable should drop the weight another 150g.
One of my primary bikes now is the latest Allez Sprint fitted with SRAM Force eTap. It's crazy how much lighter the Ultegra R8020 groupset is on my VB-177 (hydro brake/mechanical shifting) compared to eTap.
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Frame w/ paint is less than 1000g - In retrospect I should have ordered an unpainted raw carbon frame.
Elite Drive 45D wheels are 1288g
OG Evkin carbon stem is 122g
Fully carbon saddle, no padding is 100g
Latex tubes...you get the point.
Keep in mind weight is without bottle cages, pedals, or wahoo mount.
I'm also considering going 1x - Removing the front derailleur, small chainring, and shifting cable should drop the weight another 150g.
One of my primary bikes now is the latest Allez Sprint fitted with SRAM Force eTap. It's crazy how much lighter the Ultegra R8020 groupset is on my VB-177 (hydro brake/mechanical shifting) compared to eTap.
Elite Drive weight is damn impressive! Now that makes sense. I also weighted my bike again with a new scale and its showing 8.135G.
If I change my K7 to Dura Ace and use less sealant I could probably get it under 8KG and a tire change would also save me some 100g.
For the price we paid its a very good weight for a disc bike.
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So here it is people.. SRAM Force / Rival mix, weighing in as seen here at 8.2kg... without pedals and garmin accessories its around 7.9 which is still 1kg lighter than my older specialized allez disc from 2020. Might be able to shave off another 100-200g if I hadnt overdone it with the sealant and gotten lighter tires. Possibly could lose some weight by cutting the seat tube to length as well and maybe even cutting the fork a bit more, but so far very happy with it. SRAM is definitely a different experience to my 105, not sure which i like more honestly.
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Nice Build. Thanks for posting. Looks like you used another seat post then delivered by Velobuild?
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Nice Build. Thanks for posting. Looks like you used another seat post then delivered by Velobuild?
Yea I got the 20 euro/ dollar one on ali express, its surprisingly more comfortable than my fizik antares, definitely worth 20 dollars no matter which way you put it. also comes in at about 90g
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002626914825.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802HqFHyV
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Yea I got the 20 euro/ dollar one on ali express, its surprisingly more comfortable than my fizik antares, definitely worth 20 dollars no matter which way you put it. also comes in at about 90g
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002626914825.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802HqFHyV
Yes I agree, I've got a similar saddle from Velobuild. But I was actually curious about the seat post, it seems to look different then the one that came with my frame.
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Yes I agree, I've got a similar saddle from Velobuild. But I was actually curious about the seat post, it seems to look different then the one that came with my frame.
Oh misread, its actually a 0 setback seatpost from velobuild
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Quick update on the latest iteration of my 177 ;D
She's now running a full SRAM Red 22 groupset instead of the mashup of SRAM parts+105 crankset I had before.
- Running a short cage RD with an 11-28 cassette. Anyone else using Red 22 cassettes? My old Force 22 cassette is definitely quieter...
- Sram Red 22 crankset (GXP 167.5mm) with Absolute Black 50/34 chainrings, 4iiii left side PM, and Wheels MFG BB.
- Velobuild saddle replaces the old Prologo. SMP copy I've dubbed the banana saddle, I sometimes wish it had a bit more padding but overall very comfortable.
- AliExpress straight seatpost. Elita One brand if I'm remembering correctly. It's just barely long enough, but a good option if you're looking for a cheap ($30) and lightweight (130g) straight round post.
- SRAM Centerline rotors replace the old Deckas lightweight rotors. These are significantly heavier than the old ones and performance isn't really any "better", but they look much cooler :)
- Swapping between a Red 22 and a KMC X11EL gold chain. They're both good, but I think I liked the old Dura Ace chain just a hair more. It was a little quieter than both of these, but not as durable and removing/replacing the Shimano quick link was a huge pain.
As you see it, the bike is about 7.6kg
So all that being said, there will be another overhaul coming soon! I'm not really digging the 11-28 gearing and setting up the FD to work well with AB chainrings is easier said than done...this has me wanting to try out 1x. I have an AB 48t 1x ring coming in today and I'll be swapping to the old RD with 11-36 cassette. If all goes well, I'll commit to the 1x setup and splurge on a Ratio 12 Speed kit along with a 10-36 cassette and 46t chainring in the future. I also have new wheels, tires and bars coming in soon. Once all that has arrived I'll be taking the bike apart for a major cleaning and repainting. More updates coming soon! ;D
New updates ;D
Here's V3.0 of my 177.
Tried out the 1x thing and it was cool, but I don't think I can commit to a 1x road bike just yet. This is my only road bike at the moment and even though I don't do long climbs too often, the compromise in low end gearing while trying to maintain relatively small gaps between cogs was definitely noticeable. Ended up back on a 2x setup. Much of the bike is the same, just repainted and cleaned her up then replaced some of the components. Here's the changes:
Same 177 medium frame that I have repainted yet again. The two tone is gone and replaced with a solid coat of the same color, but with much better prep and higher quality materials this time. Also went with a gloss darkish gray on the fork instead of the old black.
Red 22 hydraulic groupset up front
Rival rear derailleur with Force 11-32 cassette in the back
Praxis 52/36 chainrings
KMC gold chain
Same VB saddle and Aliexpress straight seatpost
The One Pro handlebar in 400x90
Farsports Kaze wheels in marble gloss with Bitex 312 hubs. 21mm ID/45mm depth. Really digging the wheels so far, but the freehub is oh so quiet and wimpy compared to my old Superteams :( :(
Wheels are currently set up tubeless with my old 29mm Enve SES tires. Have a set of 28mm Panaracer Agilest tires patiently waiting for Ridenow tubes to arrive so I can swap them.
The luggage scale is reading 7.51kg which may or may not change once I wrap the bars and change to the lighter tubes and tires.
Now, why aren't the bars wrapped? I may have made a couple errors when running the brake lines...ended up having to remove the hatch cover on the right shifter several times and replacing the hose once after cutting it too short...doing that so many times caused me to strip the plastic threads on one of the bolt holes AND on the banjo bolt hole :) so the right shifter is pretty much toast. It leaks and at this point I think it needs to be replaced. Unless I figure out a fix, my options are:
a. a new Red 22 rear shifter
b. LTwoo R9 hydro groupset and swap out both my shifters and derailleurs
Both of these options are expensive, but the price difference is not that big...Until then, I've drained the fluid from the right brake and I'm running a front brake only for now. The solution will likely be one of these two options and the shifter(s) will need to come off, until then the bars will remain unwrapped ;D
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Has anyone tried using 30c tires and confirm they fit? If so what wheel and tire combo are you using?
I tried fitting Specialized Roubaix Pro tires (labeled as "30/32") paired to ENVE G23 wheels (23mm internal). Could not even mount the wheels front or back for lack of clearance.
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New updates ;D
Here's V3.0 of my 177.
Thank you for your post. Reminds me to post an update on my VB-R-177 soon myself. Although I’ve done way less too my bike ;D.
Can you tell us a bit more about the process of painting and repainting the bike by yourself? I’m genuinely interested.
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Has anyone tried using 30c tires and confirm they fit? If so what wheel and tire combo are you using?
I tried fitting Specialized Roubaix Pro tires (labeled as "30/32") paired to ENVE G23 wheels (23mm internal). Could not even mount the wheels front or back for lack of clearance.
Did you ever measure your tires actual width with a caliper? Because you also said those tires wont fit the vb 168 when other people say 34mm actual width tires clear frame and fork..
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Has anyone tried using 30c tires and confirm they fit? If so what wheel and tire combo are you using?
I tried fitting Specialized Roubaix Pro tires (labeled as "30/32") paired to ENVE G23 wheels (23mm internal). Could not even mount the wheels front or back for lack of clearance.
My 30/32 Roubaix on skinner internal rims didn’t clear the front fork. I ran a 28mm gravel king on 19mm internal and it barely cleared the front too. Measured 29-30mm.
This is a big flaw for this frame. Just stick to 28mm and call it a day.
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My 30/32 Roubaix on skinner internal rims didn’t clear the front fork. I ran a 28mm gravel king on 19mm internal and it barely cleared the front too. Measured 29-30mm.
This is a big flaw for this frame. Just stick to 28mm and call it a day.
Really?
28mm tires on 25mm rim (30mm measured) clear the front generously for me. There is room for 32mm (measured) or slightly more on my fork.
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After some research, it appears the Specialized Roubaix Pro "30/32" tire isn't a true 32c tire. It measures at least 2mm thicker/wider than advertised. Besides being just a crappy road tire in general, this would explain the clearance issue. Probably more like 34c tires.
The latest GP5000 TR-S in 32 is a true 32c tire with no clearance issues on my 168
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Update on my 177 after about 1000km. I got the headset rubbing issue fixed, not by the replacement bearings which VB sent, but by sanding away the paint in the areas which rubbed. Not pretty, but worked. I swapped the horrible flexy handlebar for the Deda superbox stem and some Zipp alloy bars. I'm done with internal cble routing, especially on bars!
Had a bit of a problem after a long ride last week - the frame was full of water with no obvious way to drain it, and the headset bearings were grinding and making a terrible noise. I took the front end apart and the bearings are totally rusty. I don't have spare hoses and cables to be able to swap them right now so just greased as best I can, and reassembled.
Has anyone else had issues with water ingress? I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell, but this seems like a perfect way to start a crack.
Current build:
(https://i.imgur.com/aoR6RVt.jpg)
Previously (same wall!):
(https://i.imgur.com/P24Maz9.jpg?1)
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Has anyone else had issues with water ingress? I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell, but this seems like a perfect way to start a crack.
My unqualified opinion says: don't worry too much about causing a crack when drilling. Be careful, take your time, but you're not going to cause your frame to crack by drilling a small hole or 2 in the BB area.
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My unqualified opinion says: don't worry too much about causing a crack when drilling. Be careful, take your time, but you're not going to cause your frame to crack by drilling a small hole or 2 in the BB area.
What diameter is needed to drain water? 2mm enough?
Not build the frame yet but I'm also considering drilling the frame as I have problems on another bike without a draining hole...
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What diameter is needed to drain water? 2mm enough?
Not build the frame yet but I'm also considering drilling the frame as I have problems on another bike without a draining hole...
The drain holes in the carbon rims from lightbicycle are 2.5mm:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/Holes-On-Your-Carbon-Fiber-Rims.html
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What diameter is needed to drain water? 2mm enough?
Not build the frame yet but I'm also considering drilling the frame as I have problems on another bike without a draining hole...
My VB frame came with 2mm dia hole on the BB for water egress. I think you should be good with 2mm on yours too.
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My VB frame came with 2mm dia hole on the BB for water egress. I think you should be good with 2mm on yours too.
I do that on all my bikes when they are fully built.
Look for the lowest point under the BB and make a hole of 2.5mm in the center. Stop before the BB or the crank axle ;)
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Conti GP5000 TR-S 32c - 60psi
Turns out 32c tires do in fact clear the frame. At least in the fork, haven't tried the rear tire yet but it shouldn't be a problem. Build up of debris might be an issue but in dry conditions should be fine.
Apparently the original tires I tried, Specialized Roubaix labeled "30/32" must have inflated up to about 34-35c because they absolutely did not fit.
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Man personally it's too close for my comfort. I probably won't go that far.
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Pat, what do they measure though? My 32mm Conti 5000's are only 29.5mm on my wheels.
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I don't own a caliper measuring tool, so I pulled this data directly from the Rolling Resistance website. Looks like they measure at 30mm, although others locally here told me the GP5000s are a true 32c. YMMV. Personally I wouldn't run 32s on my 177, but simply highlighting that technically they do fit.
Sidenote: Having raced on those Roubaix Pro tires before and always feeling like they felt sluggish...it's interesting to confirm I was losing about 15 watts in rolling resistance versus GP5000s.
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I don't own a caliper measuring tool
all those gadgets you have and you dont have a pair of calipers!? get down to the hardware store lol
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Drilled a hole in the bottom of the BB and whenever I ride in the rain I try to leave the bike on the rear wheel so the water also drains from the rear deraileur.
Update on my 177 after about 1000km. I got the headset rubbing issue fixed, not by the replacement bearings which VB sent, but by sanding away the paint in the areas which rubbed. Not pretty, but worked. I swapped the horrible flexy handlebar for the Deda superbox stem and some Zipp alloy bars. I'm done with internal cble routing, especially on bars!
Had a bit of a problem after a long ride last week - the frame was full of water with no obvious way to drain it, and the headset bearings were grinding and making a terrible noise. I took the front end apart and the bearings are totally rusty. I don't have spare hoses and cables to be able to swap them right now so just greased as best I can, and reassembled.
Has anyone else had issues with water ingress? I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell, but this seems like a perfect way to start a crack.
Current build:
(https://i.imgur.com/aoR6RVt.jpg)
Previously (same wall!):
(https://i.imgur.com/P24Maz9.jpg?1)
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I ordered this frame with custom paint two weeks ago and have received nothing so far except payment confirmation. I know it was Chinese New Year, but is it normal during this time not to get any feedback for so long?
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I ordered my frame with custom paint back in November 30 2022 to Luxembourg, update on 20th December to say the frame had been dispatched. Following up with Chris I've had updates a few updates to say the frame is with customs (where it has been since January 3 2023). Still no updates on the tracking. In the meantime I ordered some carbon wheels from another manufacturer early December and these arrived January 28. I understood it would take some time, but there appears to be some cause for delay... chinese new year... I don't know. Chris is happy to respond but has asked to be patient (not my strongest attribute).
Anyone else experienced or experiencing similar delays in delivery?
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Anyone else experienced or experiencing similar delays in delivery?
[/quote]
I ordered mine around the same time last year. Couldn't track it, but to my surprise it suddenly arrived in February.
So just try to patient ;)
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Hello guys,
i decided that i also want to buy from "china". Since i live in the alps i am looking for a bike to do a lot of climbing. I think the velobuild 177 would fit nicely into this. However, i am not sure if it is too aggressive for me since i am totally new to cycling and i do not have anything to compare it to. In general, i am quite sporty, mostly trail-running (training for my first ultra this year), maybe a bit more flexible than the average of my age group (~30 years) but also not super flexy. Would you guys think this would fit? I am aware that it is quite hard to make such judgment from the distance but it is still better than nothing.
Also, i read thoroughly through this thread and i wanted to sum up some points and problems:
The frame is quite light and stiff for the price
In the beginning there were some problems with loose handlebars but they are fixes now, right? Are you happy with the handlebars or would you rather buy one somewhere else?
Some complain that the seat tube slips. Is this still an issue?
Some holes are covered with paint. Not a huge issue but still.
Are you all still happy with the frame - would you recommend it or would you rather buy from another brand?
Thank you in advance!!
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my only concern for a first timer is the internal routing and bike fit. you really need to be sure of how your bike fit is before you want to run the cables. if you decide to go taller/shorter on the front end or a wider bar, you pretty much take the whole bike apart.
unless you plan on running an external handlebar/stem, then it just goes through the frame, then you should give it a go!
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my only concern for a first timer is the internal routing and bike fit. you really need to be sure of how your bike fit is before you want to run the cables. if you decide to go taller/shorter on the front end or a wider bar, you pretty much take the whole bike apart.
unless you plan on running an external handlebar/stem, then it just goes through the frame, then you should give it a go!
thank you for your reply. Taking the bike apart would be annoying but i think i can deal with that. As long as it will fit me in the end....
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It's me again ;) Are you happy with the paint job? Would you recommend it? If you buy the frame without custom paint, then it will still be covered in matte black color right?
Another question: I asked chris which size he would recommend for me (187cm, 89cm inseam) and he suggested XL. Maybe somebody here has similar proportions to mine and can tell me if it fits them. Thank's!!
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I found my custom paint to be acceptable for what I paid! If you like something go for it!
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I found my custom paint to be acceptable for what I paid! If you like something go for it!
thank you for letting me know!
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Hi all, after waiting 'patiently' my 177 frame finally arrived and the colour looks great, quality looks to be good. Very excited to start the build process. I had a question regarding the crownrace. This is my first build, so excuse if it's a stupid question.
As I push it on and does not seem to sit flush with the 'shoulder' of the fork. Is this correct? I cannot push it any further down. Is this done purposely or is the racer incorrect? To note it fits the bearings perfectly which also fit well in the frame.
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Hi all, after waiting 'patiently' my 177 frame finally arrived and the colour looks great, quality looks to be good. Very excited to start the build process. I had a question regarding the crownrace. This is my first build, so excuse if it's a stupid question.
As I push it on and does not seem to sit flush with the 'shoulder' of the fork. Is this correct? I cannot push it any further down. Is this done purposely or is the racer incorrect? To note it fits the bearings perfectly which also fit well in the frame.
It looks like you have a fork with an integrated crownrace so you don't need that. The bearing is going to sit directly on the fork.
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Anyone has noise coming from the headset/spacer? I am using the integrated handlebar from velobuild and I hear a "click" everytime I put load on the handlebar. I suspect it could be the cables entering on the head tube, they are very compressed (i have shimano di2 11v, so 4 cables are passing through the head tube). It could also be due to the spacers, I still have 3 of them installed.
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Hey all, i am currently waiting for my frame and i need to buy some missing parts. I bought a used 105 r7000 group which came without bolts. The velobuild websites states that the frame is made for 160 mm rotors. Since i also got 160 mm rotors i don't need to buy an adapter right? Can anyone tell me what kind of bolts i need to mount the brake calipers on the front and back? I guess i need the type c ones but i am totally in the dark about the length... Thank you!!!
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Hey all, i am currently waiting for my frame and i need to buy some missing parts. I bought a used 105 r7000 group which came without bolts. The velobuild websites states that the frame is made for 160 mm rotors. Since i also got 160 mm rotors i don't need to buy an adapter right? Can anyone tell me what kind of bolts i need to mount the brake calipers on the front and back? I guess i need the type c ones but i am totally in the dark about the length... Thank you!!!
You will always need an adapter for the fork, the flippable 140/160 kind. For the rear you can run a 140 rotor naked but will need an adapter for 160
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You will always need an adapter for the fork, the flippable 140/160 kind. For the rear you can run a 140 rotor naked but will need an adapter for 160
Ok thank you! -that already helps a lot
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I ordered my frame on the 24th of february and it arrived on the 15th of march. I used DPD XBD shipping method in order to not pay any customs (according to Chris) to Austria. Not too bad i would say. Overall the frame seems to be fine but there are some scratches (see images). Would you say this should be expected if you buy a chinese frame or shall i contact velobuild about it?
Also, for anybody interested, I asked velobuild to provide some torque values for the frame. Here is what Chris replied:
Stem lock on fork 5.0Nm
Seat clamp lock on seat post 5.5Nm
Seat post lock saddle 8.0Nm
Cheers!
PS: sorry for the feed pic...
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That paint on the bottle cage mount looks really crappy... It looks as if they had to remove the original rivnut when painted, pulled some paint with it, and put a new rivnut in. It's very different from the other bottle cage mounting point in the picture...
It will be almost invisible when you put a bottle cage on there, but they should not have sent it to you like that...
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That paint on the bottle cage mount looks really crappy... It looks as if they had to remove the original rivnut when painted, pulled some paint with it, and put a new rivnut in. It's very different from the other bottle cage mounting point in the picture...
It will be almost invisible when you put a bottle cage on there, but they should not have sent it to you like that...
Your description matches quite well with the paint damage I see. Thanks for reassuring - I will definetly contact Velobuild about it.
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That paint on the bottle cage mount looks really crappy... It looks as if they had to remove the original rivnut when painted, pulled some paint with it, and put a new rivnut in. It's very different from the other bottle cage mounting point in the picture...
It will be almost invisible when you put a bottle cage on there, but they should not have sent it to you like that...
Do you think I should cover it with some kind of paint? Basically, the frame is not painted at this location and therefore exposed to sunlight and water etc., right?
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While that paint mishap sucks, I wouldn't fret about it. Once you put a bottle cage over it you'll be good to go.
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While that paint mishap sucks, I wouldn't fret about it. Once you put a bottle cage over it you'll be good to go.
Yeah it's not that big of a deal. Anyhow, i wrote Chris and (after a little bit of haggling) he agreed to send me a a saddle for free! I am quite happy about it!
Anybody has a velobuild saddle here? Not sure which one i should get...
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Yeah it's not that big of a deal. Anyhow, i wrote Chris and (after a little bit of haggling) he agreed to send me a a saddle for free! I am quite happy about it!
Anybody has a velobuild saddle here? Not sure which one i should get...
Hi, i´ve just received this saddle (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-saddle-with-pu-wrapped) together with my Frame and other parts.
Just built the bike today and did not manage to do a ride, so what i can say is that it looks well made and fits the Seatpost-interface.
The "PU-wrapping" looks quite convenient but the overlay does not overlap the edge of the saddle and ends exactly where the thigh normally rubs past with each pedal. I'm afraid that this will rub on the thigh on the one hand and possibly also loosen after some time.
Will report more details as soon as i did some kilometers.
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Hi, i´ve just received this saddle (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-saddle-with-pu-wrapped) together with my Frame and other parts.
Just built the bike today and did not manage to do a ride, so what i can say is that it looks well made and fits the Seatpost-interface.
The "PU-wrapping" looks quite convenient but the overlay does not overlap the edge of the saddle and ends exactly where the thigh normally rubs past with each pedal. I'm afraid that this will rub on the thigh on the one hand and possibly also loosen after some time.
Will report more details as soon as i did some kilometers.
Thank's for the feedback! I also ordered the same one. Let's see how long it holds up. If the pu is getting loose i may as well try to print a new cover myself ;-)
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Probably a good time to follow up with my thoughts on the 177. Anecdotal of course, so take with a grain of salt.
1. By and large I think the 177 is the better frame versus the 168. It's lighter, much stiffer, and I've found it to be more responsive of a riding experience. EPS molding if that's important to you. The geometry is more forgiving as well.
2. I've tested both the 168 and 177 with a variety of wheels: Winspace Hypers, Farports EVO, Elite Drive, and VeloBuild's own 38mm depth road wheels. This is where the differences in the frames became most apparent. The 177 comes alive with quality wheels. Despite most of the aforementioned wheels being stiff race wheels they felt somewhat soft under load with the 168. Marginal but noticeable. While the 168 is an aero frame (and arguably looks faster), you can easily slap some aero wheels on the 177 as well as optimize your on-bike position.
3. Velobuild's 38mm depth road wheels - Yes they're heavy but retail is only $339 USD. 1778g for what is suppose to be climbing wheels. Very noticeable on bad pavement and upon acceleration. Steel spokes and Novatec's cheapest generic hubs. For an ULTIMATE budget build where weight isn't a priority they are probably fine. Overall system weight is still more important. Sidenote...Novatec's top-tier hubs on the other hand are fantastic and I run them on my gravel wheels.
4. Front derailleur cable port - If you're running mechanical shift cables, routing and setting up the FD will most likely account for half of the entire time you spend on the bike build itself. The 177, 168, and CX-002 all use this style of cable port. Just be patient...
5. Separate Stem Combo - We can all agree the supplied stem which comes with the separate bar/stem combo is flawed in its design. VB updated the supplied metal C-ring/clip and removed the metal tabs, however you may still find difficulty removing all the headset slack/play. A fool-proof alternative is to opt for the integrated handlebars, use FSA's ACR system, or my favorite which is the FSA no.69 headset if you need to run your own stem. Hoping one day VB offers a separate stem with internal routing capabilities but with a tradition round top-cap design.
So for $500+shipping you get a classic looking frame resembling an S-Works SL6, a non-proprietary seatpost, and a frameset that comes in well under 1000g without paint and hardware. Solid if you ask me. Sadly I had disassemble my 177 (for a 2nd time) to donor the components for another build.
I'm running SRAM eTap on my VB CX-002 frame and the setup/experience is so awesome...I'm most likely gonna rebuild my 177 yet again but also use eTap. Make it my travel/climbing/holiday bike. Won't have to worry about FD routing issues either. THIS IS THE WAY.
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Awesome summary of your experience on the 177 patliean1, thank you. I've been riding a 168 for almost 2 years now (May 2021) and have been super happy with it. I have a 177 on the way and excited to look out for the differences you pointed out between the two.
Probably a good time to follow up with my thoughts on the 177. Anecdotal of course, so take with a grain of salt.
1. By and large I think the 177 is the better frame versus the 168. It's lighter, much stiffer, and I've found it to be more responsive of a riding experience. EPS molding if that's important to you. The geometry is more forgiving as well.
2. I've tested both the 168 and 177 with a variety of wheels: Winspace Hypers, Farports EVO, Elite Drive, and VeloBuild's own 38mm depth road wheels. This is where the differences in the frames became most apparent. The 177 comes alive with quality wheels. Despite most of the aforementioned wheels being stiff race wheels they felt somewhat soft under load with the 168. Marginal but noticeable. While the 168 is an aero frame (and arguably looks faster), you can easily slap some aero wheels on the 177 as well as optimize your on-bike position.
3. Velobuild's 38mm depth road wheels - Yes they're heavy but retail is only $339 USD. 1778g for what is suppose to be climbing wheels. Very noticeable on bad pavement and upon acceleration. Steel spokes and Novatec's cheapest generic hubs. For an ULTIMATE budget build where weight isn't a priority they are probably fine. Overall system weight is still more important. Sidenote...Novatec's top-tier hubs on the other hand are fantastic and I run them on my gravel wheels.
4. Front derailleur cable port - If you're running mechanical shift cables, routing and setting up the FD will most likely account for half of the entire time you spend on the bike build itself. The 177, 168, and CX-002 all use this style of cable port. Just be patient...
5. Separate Stem Combo - We can all agree the supplied stem which comes with the separate bar/stem combo is flawed in its design. VB updated the supplied metal C-ring/clip and removed the metal tabs, however you may still find difficulty removing all the headset slack/play. A fool-proof alternative is to opt for the integrated handlebars, use FSA's ACR system, or my favorite which is the FSA no.69 headset if you need to run your own stem. Hoping one day VB offers a separate stem with internal routing capabilities but with a tradition round top-cap design.
So for $500+shipping you get a classic looking frame resembling an S-Works SL6, a non-proprietary seatpost, and a frameset that comes in well under 1000g without paint and hardware. Solid if you ask me. Sadly I had disassemble my 177 (for a 2nd time) to donor the components for another build.
I'm running SRAM eTap on my VB CX-002 frame and the setup/experience is so awesome...I'm most likely gonna rebuild my 177 yet again but also use eTap. Make it my travel/climbing/holiday bike. Won't have to worry about FD routing issues either. THIS IS THE WAY.
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Thanks for your thoughts, @patliean1
I gotta say the VB177 really starts to grow on me. Overall it’s a nice offering.
Combined with a solid bar and stem solution it’s a very nice frameset.
Regarding Novatec hubs: As an amateur wheelbuilder I gotta say, Novatec hubs are just very solid value for money. Even their lower level offerings are good hubs. Easy to service. And super flexible because you can convert them to work with almost anything. I’m running 6 wheelsets with various types and levels of Novatec Hubs. Disc and Non Disc. Entry level up to flashy lightweight stuff with carbon hub shells. And they’re all running smoothly. Especially if you source them from Aliexpress, you might occasionally get a set with rough bearings. I’ve had two hubs which I had to replace bearings on pretty early. I wonder sometimes if there’s sellers on Ali who are selling b-stock or stuff that didn’t quite make it through qc. But overall, I really rate them.
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Any thoughts on 177 vs 218? Will appreciate that @patliean1 and others who have both. I know 218 is copy of Dogma and probably looked down upon but I like it and don't mind owning a copy.
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Any thoughts on 177 vs 218? Will appreciate that @patliean1 and others who have both. I know 218 is copy of Dogma and probably looked down upon but I like it and don't mind owning a copy.
I own a 218 but not a 177. The 218 will obviously always end up being heavier than the 177. Other than that, it’s a stiff frame and not exactly a very forgiving ride. Which might not really be surprising. I think its most striking characteristic is its handling - at least for the size XXL (54) that I’m riding. The head angle is very steep, the fork rake is shorter than on the 177 and the front Center is very short as well. That results in a frame that is super quick in responding to steering impulses despite my longish 120mm stem. It’s borderline nervous but I like it. This feeling is offset by a very low bottom bracket at -72mm which results in a planted feeling. Still I’ve never had trouble with striking my pedals on the ground despite running 175mm cranks.
The geometry and handling of this frame is what I like most about it.
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Probably a good time to follow up with my thoughts on the 177. Anecdotal of course, so take with a grain of salt.
1. By and large I think the 177 is the better frame versus the 168. It's lighter, much stiffer, and I've found it to be more responsive of a riding experience. EPS molding if that's important to you. The geometry is more forgiving as well.
2. I've tested both the 168 and 177 with a variety of wheels: Winspace Hypers, Farports EVO, Elite Drive, and VeloBuild's own 38mm depth road wheels. This is where the differences in the frames became most apparent. The 177 comes alive with quality wheels. Despite most of the aforementioned wheels being stiff race wheels they felt somewhat soft under load with the 168. Marginal but noticeable. While the 168 is an aero frame (and arguably looks faster), you can easily slap some aero wheels on the 177 as well as optimize your on-bike position.
3. Velobuild's 38mm depth road wheels - Yes they're heavy but retail is only $339 USD. 1778g for what is suppose to be climbing wheels. Very noticeable on bad pavement and upon acceleration. Steel spokes and Novatec's cheapest generic hubs. For an ULTIMATE budget build where weight isn't a priority they are probably fine. Overall system weight is still more important. Sidenote...Novatec's top-tier hubs on the other hand are fantastic and I run them on my gravel wheels.
4. Front derailleur cable port - If you're running mechanical shift cables, routing and setting up the FD will most likely account for half of the entire time you spend on the bike build itself. The 177, 168, and CX-002 all use this style of cable port. Just be patient...
5. Separate Stem Combo - We can all agree the supplied stem which comes with the separate bar/stem combo is flawed in its design. VB updated the supplied metal C-ring/clip and removed the metal tabs, however you may still find difficulty removing all the headset slack/play. A fool-proof alternative is to opt for the integrated handlebars, use FSA's ACR system, or my favorite which is the FSA no.69 headset if you need to run your own stem. Hoping one day VB offers a separate stem with internal routing capabilities but with a tradition round top-cap design.
So for $500+shipping you get a classic looking frame resembling an S-Works SL6, a non-proprietary seatpost, and a frameset that comes in well under 1000g without paint and hardware. Solid if you ask me. Sadly I had disassemble my 177 (for a 2nd time) to donor the components for another build.
I'm running SRAM eTap on my VB CX-002 frame and the setup/experience is so awesome...I'm most likely gonna rebuild my 177 yet again but also use eTap. Make it my travel/climbing/holiday bike. Won't have to worry about FD routing issues either. THIS IS THE WAY.
Great information I was looking at the 177. Regarding FSA No. 69, would it be similar to getting the headset cover like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004647390416.html
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Great information I was looking at the 177. Regarding FSA No. 69, would it be similar to getting the headset cover like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004647390416.html
Yup! Should work just fine. I might buy a few myself for future builds.
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I have spare FSA N69 for sale, as I went with a custom solution:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4081.0.html
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I like Ritchey's solutions better
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/1d174df6079f73bbc3925b9a7c9adb6b8a3f2be3-1180x640.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=format)
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/logic-e-1.5-integrated-is-upper-headset
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/c27f4b69e9620d2a1c1dbaa7dce78729e629b0de-1180x640.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=format)
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I like Ritchey's solutions better...
If you have to pass only two hoses.
Otherwise, this is an open door to give the headset bearings a regular bath.
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I like Ritchey's solutions better
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/1d174df6079f73bbc3925b9a7c9adb6b8a3f2be3-1180x640.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=format)
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/logic-e-1.5-integrated-is-upper-headset
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/c27f4b69e9620d2a1c1dbaa7dce78729e629b0de-1180x640.jpg?w=1920&q=75&auto=format)
Would it be easy to route the 2 or 4 hole options vs. the slot?
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If you click on the link, you will see the solution.....
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/3472984772faa8171962d97267bfcf7f0e9502dd-1180x640.jpg?w=1200&q=75&auto=format)
(https://cdn.sanity.io/images/pbcwwn3b/production/181d47f038d208e44d00a1fe1cb97a65e5d675ff-1180x640.jpg?w=1200&q=75&auto=format)
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Hey guys, do you have flex with integrated handlebar that comes with this frame?
Should i buy it, or buy separate stem (like specialized tarmac stem with chinese handlebar)?
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Hey folks,
I want to cut my steerer tube today but I want to confirm with you, that i am not doing something stupid. Instead of using the top cap that comes with the expander plug i need to use the one that comes with the stem (see images), right? So firstly i will cut the fork 3 mm below where the stem is touching (red line in attached image, not to scale) then I will put the expander plug in there and tighten it. Then i will but the top cap (from the stem) and tighten the top cap. This will ensure that everything (spacers etc) is compressed properly.
Is this the right way to do it? Thanks for your help!
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Hey folks,
I want to cut my steerer tube today but I want to confirm with you, that i am not doing something stupid. Instead of using the top cap that comes with the expander plug i need to use the one that comes with the stem (see images), right? So firstly i will cut the fork 3 mm below where the stem is touching (red line in attached image, not to scale) then I will put the expander plug in there and tighten it. Then i will but the top cap (from the stem) and tighten the top cap. This will ensure that everything (spacers etc) is compressed properly.
Is this the right way to do it? Thanks for your help!
How low you have to cut depends on how much clearance you need between your steerer expander plug and your top cap in order to compress the whole headset assembly. I dunno what that top cap looks like from the bottom and how far it protrudes into the steerer. But that measurement is critical. Cutting the steerer below the upper clamping bolt is definitely too short, however. Because that bolt is there for a reason and your stem will only clamp to the steerer with the lower bolt.
Personally, I prefer to cut the steerer in line with the stem and have one small spacer below the top cap, just for peace of mind. With one piece bars like this one however, this becomes increasingly impossible due to the shape of the top cap.
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How low you have to cut depends on how much clearance you need between your steerer expander plug and your top cap in order to compress the whole headset assembly. I dunno what that top cap looks like from the bottom and how far it protrudes into the steerer. But that measurement is critical. Cutting the steerer below the upper clamping bolt is definitely too short, however. Because that bolt is there for a reason and your stem will only clamp to the steerer with the lower bolt.
Personally, I prefer to cut the steerer in line with the stem and have one small spacer below the top cap, just for peace of mind. With one piece bars like this one however, this becomes increasingly impossible due to the shape of the top cap.
Thanks for your very helpful answer! When i posted my question i was not even sure if the top "stem cap" (which is made out of carbon) is even capable of providing enough integrity to compress all the things together.
I attached another image showing the bottom and side view of the top cap. The distance between the two red lines is ~ 5mm. So when i cut the sterrer tube flush with the stem it would give me 5mm room for compression, which is probably ok. I could probably also just cut it 1 or 2 mm above the stem (leaving me with 3 to 4 mm) and it should be fine, right?
What you mention in the second paragraph is exactly what i would have done if i would have gotten a flat stem. Unfortunately i could not find anything for such curved top caps and stems...
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What you mention in the second paragraph is exactly what i would have done if i would have gotten a flat stem. Unfortunately i could not find anything for such curved top caps and stems...
what i meant is that i could not find any instruction or tutorials for it
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Yes, judging from your pics, there's probably enough room to adjust the preload if you just cut the steerer flush with the stem. The expander plug will then sit on top of the steerer and take up another 1-2mm and there's about 3mm of clearance for compression, which should be enough.
Do keep in mind however, that people had problems with headset play on this particular frame. I think most guys use micro spacers between the upper headset cap and the upper headset bearing. If you need to use one of those to eliminate headset play, that will require another milimeter or so of steerer length. Maybe someone else can chime in to answer that.
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Yes, judging from your pics, there's probably enough room to adjust the preload if you just cut the steerer flush with the stem. The expander plug will then sit on top of the steerer and take up another 1-2mm and there's about 3mm of clearance for compression, which should be enough.
Do keep in mind however, that people had problems with headset play on this particular frame. I think most guys use micro spacers between the upper headset cap and the upper headset bearing. If you need to use one of those to eliminate headset play, that will require another milimeter or so of steerer length. Maybe someone else can chime in to answer that.
You are right - i forgot to consider the expander plug height. However, i checked again and the protrusion of the "stem cap" where the screw goes trough right in the middle actually does not sit flush with the top of the expander plug, but is formed in a way that it can go around 2 mm deeper into the expander plug. So coincidentally not considering both factors i would have gotten the right height still
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Quick update: i cut the fork 2 mm above the stem. Fits perfectly now! :-)
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1 Year review, just love the frame, specially when you get a proper stem/cap for the frame. The only thing that bothers me is the front thruaxle, why make that stupid endcap and not just make the inserts black/painted. The bike feels stiff, light and I fit just perfectly in the geometry.
It makes no sense to pay for a brand bike when you have this much quality on Velobuild.
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I am intrigued by these. 32mm tire clearance is great. I have a couple of questions:
- Any common issues to look out for?
- These do have conventional 27.2mm seatposts correct?
- Can I order the frameset w/no bars for less money? Would def rather get something else
- Any comparison pics of the S vs M? I am kind of between sizes but prob closer to the M (would just need a 10mm shorter stem + bar vs my 54cm FM208). I also think I would prefer the longer head tube + taller look of the M.
- Also would love to see any pics with 60mm deep wheels.
Some very nice builds here.
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Hello everyone. I am interested in this frame and like others have said some modifications need to be done to get rid of the headset play on some VB frames 168/177
will any of these products help?
Kocevlo Headset (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004523330541.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.8.4a344a15AG2LLh&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21MYR%2131.81%2122.27%21%21%21%21%21%40212c01e916849436027154978e023e%2112000029466822860%21rec%21MY%21134934394)
sl7 expander/compressor ring (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005262290841.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.12.4a344a15AG2LLh&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21MYR%21129.02%2172.25%21%21%21%21%21%40212c01e916849436027154978e023e%2112000032401912983%21rec%21MY%21134934394)
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Hello everyone. I am interested in this frame and like others have said some modifications need to be done to get rid of the headset play on some VB frames 168/177
will any of these products help?
Kocevlo Headset (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004523330541.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.8.4a344a15AG2LLh&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21MYR%2131.81%2122.27%21%21%21%21%21%40212c01e916849436027154978e023e%2112000029466822860%21rec%21MY%21134934394)
sl7 expander/compressor ring (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005262290841.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.12.4a344a15AG2LLh&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:10cb607c-4b95-4a2e-b15f-198d0aa0ca79,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21MYR%21129.02%2172.25%21%21%21%21%21%40212c01e916849436027154978e023e%2112000032401912983%21rec%21MY%21134934394)
I'm using a kocevelo stem/handlebar combo (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005036706669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.28811802tiWTv4) on my vb-099 and surprisingly it fits perfectly with no headset play. Assuming that headset linked comes with the same stuff. Plus an extra-long compression plug I got on amazon.
Although I thought velobuild was now sending the thicker c-rings so headset play isn't an issue anymore?
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I'm using a kocevelo stem/handlebar combo (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005036706669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.28811802tiWTv4 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005036706669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.28811802tiWTv4)) on my vb-099 and surprisingly it fits perfectly with no headset play. Assuming that headset linked comes with the same stuff. Plus an extra-long compression plug I got on amazon.
Although I thought velobuild was now sending the thicker c-rings so headset play isn't an issue anymore?
Just finished a 177 build but ended up using my old HB011 bars and the headset/c ring combo it came with from my 168. Will post more on that build soon.
I did get an updated C ring for my GF-022 that uses the separate bar/stem combo and no longer have the headset play issues I had before.
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Hi all - We just posted an updated regarding a newly designed c ring here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4183.msg46386.html#msg46386
Please check it out!
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32mm tire clearance is great.
This frame won't clear 32mm tire width.
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This frame won't clear 32mm tire width.
It technically fits 32c GP5000 tubeless without rubbing, but I would only recommend on dry/smooth roads. I posted a photo a couple of months ago on this thread. Not saying it's optimal but it is possible.
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Finished up my 177 build a couple of weeks ago and have been making a few final aesthetic touches.
Overall, really happy with how it turned out and how it rides. Zero issues putting the build together. Moved most of the parts over from my 168 except for the Magene Exar Ultra wheels which are new, carbon saddle from AliX and tubeless version of the Goodyear Eagle F1s I was running prior (which were constantly getting flats btw).
VeloBuild VB-R-177 frame
Magene EXAR Ultra 50/58 wheelset
Magene P325CS Dual PM
Hammerhead Karoo 2 computer
Magene L508 radar light
ZTTO BB86 threaded ceramic BB
MIXED Ultra Light 7D MAX Carbon Saddle 140MM
Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless tires
11sp Di2 frankenmix
L-TWOO ospw
Really happy I made the switch, the 177 is not only a bit lighter but the main highlight coming over from the 168 I would say is how much stiffer it feels. I also like that although I think it's modelled after a Scott Addict, it looks a bit more unique given how common the SL7 which the 168 is designed after is. I think it's Velobuilds best road frame.
Currently using the original HB011 bars from my 168 which I'm considering swapping as it's the only piece with noticeable flex now that I have a stiffer frame and wheels. Only issue I had was that the moulding where the rear hanger outer piece goes seems to have some excess material, which changes the angle of the thread a bit and make the TA screw in a bit tougher than it should be. Aside from that, everything was smooth.
https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh (https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI (https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns (https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz (https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
https://imgur.com/KhaujkN (https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
https://imgur.com/pW3z35v (https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
(https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
(https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
(https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
(https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
(https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
(https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
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One of the best looking 177s on here. Looking good!
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Will this frame clear 32c Panaracer GKs or GK SS?
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Finished up my 177 build a couple of weeks ago and have been making a few final aesthetic touches.
Overall, really happy with how it turned out and how it rides. Zero issues putting the build together. Moved most of the parts over from my 168 except for the Magene Exar Ultra wheels which are new, carbon saddle from AliX and tubeless version of the Goodyear Eagle F1s I was running prior (which were constantly getting flats btw).
VeloBuild VB-R-177 frame
Magene EXAR Ultra 50/58 wheelset
Magene P325CS Dual PM
Hammerhead Karoo 2 computer
Magene L508 radar light
ZTTO BB86 threaded ceramic BB
MIXED Ultra Light 7D MAX Carbon Saddle 140MM
Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless tires
11sp Di2 frankenmix
L-TWOO ospw
Really happy I made the switch, the 177 is not only a bit lighter but the main highlight coming over from the 168 I would say is how much stiffer it feels. I also like that although I think it's modelled after a Scott Addict, it looks a bit more unique given how common the SL7 which the 168 is designed after is. I think it's Velobuilds best road frame.
Currently using the original HB011 bars from my 168 which I'm considering swapping as it's the only piece with noticeable flex now that I have a stiffer frame and wheels. Only issue I had was that the moulding where the rear hanger outer piece goes seems to have some excess material, which changes the angle of the thread a bit and make the TA screw in a bit tougher than it should be. Aside from that, everything was smooth.
https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh (https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI (https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns (https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz (https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
https://imgur.com/KhaujkN (https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
https://imgur.com/pW3z35v (https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
(https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
(https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
(https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
(https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
(https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
(https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
How are the Magene EXARs treating you?
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How are the Magene EXARs treating you?
Really well so far. They are pretty light and feel stiff and fast. I'm finally back to road tubeless which was much needed and was able to set it up at home with a floor pump. Highlights for me are the ceramic bearings, dt swiss style ratchet hub, carbon spokes and having a more shallow front/deeper back to help with stability.
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Will this frame clear 32c Panaracer GKs or GK SS?
Various comments on the forum saying 32C on the 177 is very sketchy. Which is a major bummer for me. I want to run 32C Conti 5000 on 32mm wide rims on my next road bike. I've ridden 28 and 32mm back to back, difference is very material, yet peak torque showed on YT there's no penalty using 32C, either rolling resistance or CDA, proving you're running wide rims (32mm)
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Various comments on the forum saying 32C on the 177 is very sketchy. Which is a major bummer for me. I want to run 32C Conti 5000 on 32mm wide rims on my next road bike. I've ridden 28 and 32mm back to back, difference is very material, yet peak torque showed on YT there's no penalty using 32C, either rolling resistance or CDA, proving you're running wide rims (32mm)
don't know if 1mm helps, but 28mm gp5k s tr on 25mm internal rims measure to about 31mm when mounted. see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2date20oaI (not my video but is use the same tires on wr45s from light bicycle)
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Various comments on the forum saying 32C on the 177 is very sketchy. Which is a major bummer for me. I want to run 32C Conti 5000 on 32mm wide rims on my next road bike. I've ridden 28 and 32mm back to back, difference is very material, yet peak torque showed on YT there's no penalty using 32C, either rolling resistance or CDA, proving you're running wide rims (32mm)
I use 30 mm Conti 5000 str on mine. clearance is fine. Would not want to go bigger though...
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I was cleaning out the parts bin and found a spare 177 seatpost binder, ill ship it at cost to whoever could use it!
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I was cleaning out the parts bin and found a spare 177 seatpost binder, ill ship it at cost to whoever could use it!
the classified section is a bit sad, i feel it'd be useful to have that thing posted there, if anything just to show activity.
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Does anybody use some other integrated cockpits/stem bar combo's apart from the Velobuild's? If yes, could you please tell me how you guys solved the top cap cable routing.
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Hey Everyone,
My intentions are not to spam this thread with my photos. However, I finally received my VeloBuild 38mm wheels after a two week delay courtesy of my local postal service :( . The Hyper 65s I originally had on the 177 are for my Winspace T1500 which I will be building up this weekend.
1. They are pretty heavy. 1778g for the pair. For comparison sake, my Winspace Hyper 65s weigh 1610g. Lighter yet significantly deeper wheels, but also significantly more expensive. You could buy three pairs of VB wheels for the price of Hypers. Just something to consider...
2. Specs are tubeless clinchers with the tubeless tape already installed. 25mm external, 19mm internal. The wheels come with valve extenders, but sadly no extra spokes or tubeless valves. Standard Novatec hubs. I've used these hubs on my Yoeleo wheels and they are perfectly fine.
3. This is the final "form" for the build. Without power meter pedals, carbon bottle cage, or Garmin mount...final weight is 8kg
I'm working on my official video review of the build, but for the price and weight I have to say it's a lovely deal. The light weight carbon of the 177 offsets the heavy wheels in my opinion, so basically you're getting a big-brand quality frameset, handlebars, and wheels for under $1000. Add your favorite groupset and you're looking at a setup that would probably cost almost double in price from one the main brands out there.
PS - the gold chain is from OG-Evkin. I probably own about 8-10 different components from them. They offer solid value for the price.
Hey Patty, quick question: How did you manage to add spacers above the VB seperate stem?
Did they include a suitable topcap to run spacers?
I'm a Velobuild frameset with that stem soon and i want to validate my stack height before cutting the steerer to size.
Thanks!!
EDIT: Or did you just put that one Spacer on top of the topcap to evenly spread the compressing force? Meaning that your steerer was already cut to size?
I might have to 3d-print an adapter to run standard spacers above the stem then... probably not a big deal.
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Hey Patty, quick question: How did you manage to add spacers above the VB seperate stem?
Did they include a suitable topcap to run spacers?
I'm a Velobuild frameset with that stem soon and i want to validate my stack height before cutting the steerer to size.
Thanks!!
EDIT: Or did you just put that one Spacer on top of the topcap to evenly spread the compressing force? Meaning that your steerer was already cut to size?
I might have to 3d-print an adapter to run standard spacers above the stem then... probably not a big deal.
Howdy!
I measured and cut the steer tube with the intentions of using a spacer about the separate stem. It does help spread the force evenly, but it was mainly to give myself the option of raising the stem just in case I needed to in the future. This came in handy when I switched to using the FSA no.69 setup, as the headset cap on that is much taller than what's provided from VB.
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Howdy!
I measured and cut the steer tube with the intentions of using a spacer about the separate stem. It does help spread the force evenly, but it was mainly to give myself the option of raising the stem just in case I needed to in the future. This came in handy when I switched to using the FSA no.69 setup, as the headset cap on that is much taller than what's provided from VB.
Thanks! Just to be clear: Did the Velobuild stem include a topcap with a hole that allows the steerer not to be cut to size? Like the SL7 stem, where a different topcap with a 1 1/8 inch hole allows to run spacers above the stem.
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Thanks! Just to be clear: Did the Velobuild stem include a topcap with a hole that allows the steerer not to be cut to size? Like the SL7 stem, where a different topcap with a 1 1/8 inch hole allows to run spacers above the stem.
It does not (at least mine didn't), but I ended up designing and printing a cap:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0)
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It does not (at least mine didn't), but I ended up designing and printing a cap:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0)
Thanks a lot buddy, I really appreciate it! 8)
Looks really promising, I will surely try this out!
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It does not (at least mine didn't), but I ended up designing and printing a cap:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6bgkpoy94cq7as3radns1/non-aero-top-cap-v3.STL?rlkey=gmaimol7bm771slfgn2v7wayp&dl=0)
Thanks! I wish i had that a few months ago!
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Anyone knows to which Geo the vb177 ist similar to? Someone mentioned the sl7? Anyone other information?
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Geo of R 177 is similar to Scott Addict.
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Finished up my 177 build a couple of weeks ago and have been making a few final aesthetic touches.
Overall, really happy with how it turned out and how it rides. Zero issues putting the build together. Moved most of the parts over from my 168 except for the Magene Exar Ultra wheels which are new, carbon saddle from AliX and tubeless version of the Goodyear Eagle F1s I was running prior (which were constantly getting flats btw).
VeloBuild VB-R-177 frame
Magene EXAR Ultra 50/58 wheelset
Magene P325CS Dual PM
Hammerhead Karoo 2 computer
Magene L508 radar light
ZTTO BB86 threaded ceramic BB
MIXED Ultra Light 7D MAX Carbon Saddle 140MM
Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless tires
11sp Di2 frankenmix
L-TWOO ospw
Really happy I made the switch, the 177 is not only a bit lighter but the main highlight coming over from the 168 I would say is how much stiffer it feels. I also like that although I think it's modelled after a Scott Addict, it looks a bit more unique given how common the SL7 which the 168 is designed after is. I think it's Velobuilds best road frame.
Currently using the original HB011 bars from my 168 which I'm considering swapping as it's the only piece with noticeable flex now that I have a stiffer frame and wheels. Only issue I had was that the moulding where the rear hanger outer piece goes seems to have some excess material, which changes the angle of the thread a bit and make the TA screw in a bit tougher than it should be. Aside from that, everything was smooth.
https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh (https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI (https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns (https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz (https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
https://imgur.com/KhaujkN (https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
https://imgur.com/pW3z35v (https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
(https://imgur.com/mtYh8Sh)
(https://imgur.com/mdJxEXI)
(https://imgur.com/tvRp4Ns)
(https://imgur.com/NpP7zyz)
(https://imgur.com/KhaujkN)
(https://imgur.com/pW3z35v)
Would you say that the 177 is harsher to ride, because being stiffer than 168?
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Would you say that the 177 is harsher to ride, because being stiffer than 168?
Not at all. The 177 feels stiffer but not uncomfortable IMO.
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Hi, I have been lurking in this thread for a while, but now finally the time has come to assemble my own VB-R-177. I received the frame few days ago, but I am largely still waiting for other parts. One of the things that arrived in my mail today was the bottom bracket. It came with a ~2mm spacer, that I am unsure whether it is needed, or which side of the bottom bracket I should put it on. I am attaching an image to make sure you understand what I mean.
I have a Shimano 105 R7100 crankset, and I will be running the L-TWOO eR9 groupset. How would I determine whether I need to put on this spacer? Did you put one on when you were assembling this frame?
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Hi all,
i'm looking to purcase a new frame and i like the 177 geometry (very close to my bianchi XR4 size 59)
can someone share a picture of a XL size to see how it's look?
thanks
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How is the stiffness of this frame, have you done the test of trying to join the fork and rear chainstays with your hands? That's my biggest concern with these framesets
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How is the stiffness of this frame, have you done the test of trying to join the fork and rear chainstays with your hands? That's my biggest concern with these framesets
You have now asked this question in multiple threads. Almost verbatim each time. What are you looking to accomplish by asking this?
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You have now asked this question in multiple threads. Almost verbatim each time. What are you looking to accomplish by asking this?
I'm sorry, I'm just looking for more accurate information on the frame I have studied to buy. It would be the first time I buy one
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Do you know if there is a straight seatpost for this frame? Seatpost without backset?
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Do you know if there is a straight seatpost for this frame? Seatpost without backset?
This frame uses a standard round 27,2mm seat post. You can replace it with any 27,2mm seat post.
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Do you know if there is a straight seatpost for this frame? Seatpost without backset?
Answering your previous question, your test is useless, makes no sense joining by hand fork or chainstays, been riding this thing for 1 year, no issues and on roads with a lot of potholes. you can by a seatpost without setback, just order the frame without a seatpost.
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Do you know if there is a straight seatpost for this frame? Seatpost without backset?
You may be able to get one from VB if you ask for it with your order
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Studying the geometry of this frame I have a doubt, according to my biomechanic, my reach is 386, in this frame it would be size XS, but I see a very short down tube, it seems strange to me.
In velobuild 168 is something more normal.
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Hi, I have been lurking in this thread for a while, but now finally the time has come to assemble my own VB-R-177. I received the frame few days ago, but I am largely still waiting for other parts. One of the things that arrived in my mail today was the bottom bracket. It came with a ~2mm spacer, that I am unsure whether it is needed, or which side of the bottom bracket I should put it on. I am attaching an image to make sure you understand what I mean.
I have a Shimano 105 R7100 crankset, and I will be running the L-TWOO eR9 groupset. How would I determine whether I need to put on this spacer? Did you put one on when you were assembling this frame?
please look in the manual of the bracket, the frame is BB86 in the manual you will find how many spacers on which side you need, for example if it is a sram Dub bracket it woult be one spacer on the right side (which i assume should also be fine for you)
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please look in the manual of the bracket, the frame is BB86 in the manual you will find how many spacers on which side you need, for example if it is a sram Dub bracket it woult be one spacer on the right side (which i assume should also be fine for you)
Hey, thanks, I actually figured it out soon after asking the question but didn't post anything about my solution. As you mention, the specs are crank dependent, so the information was (in my case) available in the Shimano's 105 crankset documentation.
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Rebuilt my VB-177 frameset, as it's off to a new home. My buddy opted for 105 Di2 12-Speed and a set of 1st-gen Hyper 65s. Shifting with 105 feels identical to Ultegra Di2 12sp and the wheels make for a speedy ride dynamically. FSA no69 headset system is the way to go.
After building this bike up and riding it, I'm now quite curious to check out the VB-268. I hoping the 268 takes all the good from the 177 and pairs it with the aesthetics and geometry of the 168. Yes I said I was finished with reviewing $500 frames but...
YouTube Search: VeloBuild 177 Shimano 105 Di2 12 Speed: EXCELLENT
https:// youtu.be/tA6i2vBFrzE (remove the space)
https://youtu.be/tA6i2vBFrzE (https://youtu.be/tA6i2vBFrzE)
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The first step is to admit you have a problem! Joking, love watching your videos , keep it up .
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I see this thread hasn't been used for a while but has anyone successfully fitted the Ritchey Switch upper headset and stem combo to the 177? I see the FSA SMR to ACR headset works as does the Deda Superbox. Just wondering if there are bearing seat or height issues with Ritchey. Thx!
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White 177 With old Ultegra Di2 and 55mm deep wheels
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White 177 With old Ultegra Di2 and 55mm deep wheels
Phew came out clean! What bar is that?
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Phew came out clean! What bar is that?
It is the integrated bar of Airwolf in 36cm.
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It is the integrated bar of Airwolf in 36cm.
I bought 4 of these, super pleased w them! Allegedly full T1000.
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177 riders, how are you finding the bike, especially those who use non VB / legit bars?
Any points of comparison with known bikes?