Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: chadrandom on July 31, 2020, 03:30:11 AM
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I've been looking into Carbonda due to the popularity of the 505 and 696 frames. So far, the 696 appears to be the leading contender for my next bike, however the 1056 looks very interesting. Has anyone in the community here got experience with the 1056?
It appears to be a road frame with just a bit more relaxed geometry than the 696. If it's a solid frame, that could suit me perfectly as I would be using it as an endurance frame and I don't have any plans to load up racks and fenders which the 696 accommodates. .
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Thanks for sharing, I didn't see this frame existed !
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I am also interested in this frame.
Seems like a very good design that ticks lots of the right boxes. 32c tire clearance, stable wheelbase, good bb drop, acceptable trail numbers for all but the smallest size. DI2 slot on the downtube, internal routing (but not fully internal) and BB86.
Let us know if you have any more info on it. Seems like a good frame if you must have 32mm tires.
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In another thread I saw this:
From what I understand, Carbonda sold the 505 license to someone; (maybe Thesis?) and the 505 is no longer available.
That makes me pretty sad... was hoping to build a new bike around the 505 for my birthday next year :-) If true, hopefully this frame will prove to be a worthy successor...
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Hello, my name is Vincent and I am from France. I have just ordered this frame size 58.
The plan is to make a light endurance road bike. I'll give you update soon.
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Hello, my name is Vincent and I am from France. I have just ordered this frame size 58.
The plan is to make a light endurance road bike. I'll give you update soon.
Thank you for trying this frame !
I look forward for your feedback, especially the tire clearance, if 32mm is a conservative limit or if it is tight.
For information here is the link http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
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I've actually been getting excited about this frame, also to build an endurance bike. Its geometry (well, and the cfr-505's) is very close to the giant defy (https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/giant-defy-advanced-pro-2-2020-m,carbonda-cfr505-2017-m-54,carbonda-cfr-1056-2020-m/). If only it could fit a 35mm tire ;-)
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Hello, my name is Vincent and I am from France. I have just ordered this frame size 58.
The plan is to make a light endurance road bike. I'll give you update soon.
I will be very interested to learn more from your experience. Which fork did you order with it?
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Hello,
I finally receive a photo of my painted frame which is nearly leaving China.
I order the frame and fork as they are on the website, as I don't need inserts for rack mount.
Now waiting for the delivery to start mounting and riding.
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...I finally receive a photo of my painted frame...
Did it take long for them to deliver ?
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Hard to say. I ordered beginning of septembre and just received the photo as Adam just came black from 2wks holyday. Now this is shipment time... let see and I will tell you my experience for the whole process.
Vincent
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Nice frame, lovely fade! Looking forward to seeing it fully built up.
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Nice! Hope it arrives quickly.
What are you planning for the headset/stem/handlebar? I was looking at their specs and it looks like it's compatible with FSA's internal/aero cable routing system(?) (They seem to have a few typos in the headset spec, but I think it's this one: https://www.bike24.com/p2367152.html)
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Cables are not fully integrated on this frame, so the headset is not exactly this one but the same from FSA with a circular standard top part. It should arrive with one.
For the rest I will install fizik cyrano R1 periph, and Light Bycicle wheels with dt240exp hubs.
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Cables are not fully integrated on this frame, so the headset is not exactly this one but the same from FSA with a circular standard top part. It should arrive with one.
For the rest I will install fizik cyrano R1 periph, and Light Bycicle wheels with dt240exp hubs.
Please take as many picture as you can of the integration between the handlebar-stem-frame, the cabling etc. :)
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The frame looks really nice, i'm not sure yet whether to go for the cfr696 oder cfr1056. As i want to ride mainly endurance on the road maybe the cfr1056 is the better choice.
How much did you pay for the frame?
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Hi Uluvas,
The frame cost me 668€ including paint job (~115€) shipment and Alibaba fees. The best for you is to have an quote from Adam.
Vincent
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Hi Vincent,
do you know when your bike is expected to arrive?
I guess i will order a CFR1056 soon (and some wheels) but would like to wait until yours arrived. Maybe you can say something about the bike and post some more pictures, once it arrived. What groupset do you plan to use?
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Hi, as far as I know, the frame left China last week and it would take between 10 and 35 days to be in France.
I also ordered some wheels from Light Bicycle with DT240EXP hubs. The groupset will be an Ultegra R 8020.
I bought a cyrano R1 handlebar and I expect the complete bike to be around 7.5kg. I will post some photos of the components and the assembly.
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I want to order the frame now as well, but im not quite sure yet which size fits the best. Vincent what is you size and stride length? Im 183cm and have 89cm stride length. Do you think size L fits good for an sportive endurance road bike?
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The way I approached this is to look for similar geos here: https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/canyon-endurace-cf-sl-disc-8-0-2020-m,carbonda-cfr-1056-2020-m,giant-defy-advanced-pro-2-2020-m,specialized-roubaix-pro-2020-54,merida-scultura-endurance-5000-2021-51/ (This is for medium, but it's just to look for comparables. Also, you can actually search by numbers for a small fee.)
Then I went to the websites of those manufacturers and entered my measurements to get a recommendation (My size would be an S for my 172cm height / 80cm inseam). If you'd like to get more visual about it, you can import those numbers (manually) into bikegeocalc.com
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I have done the same, I entered my dimensions (height 188cm, inseam 89cm) on a manufacturer website and see which size was recommanded. Then I chose the right size. 58 is perhaps a bit to large for me but will be more comfortable for long rides. For you Uluvas, 56 should be better, but I am not an ergonomy specialist.
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Then I went to the websites of those manufacturers and entered my measurements to get a recommendation (My size would be an S for my 172cm height / 80cm inseam). If you'd like to get more visual about it, you can import those numbers (manually) into bikegeocalc.com
A S will drop your bar lower compared to the same saddle height on a M.
You need to know if you are flexible enough to have your hand that low for few hours rides.
But a S will have your bar nearer the saddle than a M, so you may end up less stretched to grab the hoods.
A S if too small for you, can have a longer stem and a seatpost with offset.
And you can usually put about 3cm of spacers max below the stem if too low.
A M if too big is trickier.
Straight seatpost and shorter stem are less ideal for handling.
For comparison, I have both a Canyon Ultimate and Carbonda CFR505 in M(54) both with a 90mm stem and straight seatpost, no spacers.
Canyon were hesitating between a S and M, when I contacted them.
And I'm 178cm/89cm inseam. So very roughly about 3cm shorter torso than you :o
My saddle is set at 76.5cm (BB/top of the saddle)
It looks difficult, but if you do your homework, it isn't that complex.
The good news is that as you look to be between two sizes, both will work with some eventual adaptations ;)
My son, is your size more or less and rides a Carbonda CFR505 S with a 110mm stem.
I took it for a ride once, and it didn't feel strange.
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Thanks for the advice carbonazza! Excellent points on the fit. Will definitely keep this in mind while I continue my research (I'm planning to order in March next year).
If you're curious, my homework had already been to make a visual comparison between size S and M (https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#19Carbonda+CFR-1056+Sa0b4c751.16663d268e626.69043f710.8382g948.01838h417.02209i343j343k1330.8l821.1m1125.36663n690.07928o1168.69759p905.77431q1191.47157r1323.3009s909.82265t31.8u40v6w0x10y280z40A0B150C25D380.42484E44.92388F170G30H30Z19Carbonda+CFR-1056+Ma0b4c751.52907d270e615.64489f740.78179g950.25761h417.1828i343j343k1341.6l841.2m1132.32907n691.88413o1180.84474p907.19691q1194.26479r1326.09413s911.24525t31.8u40v6w1.48463x0y280z40A0B150C25D380E45.07621F170G30H30Z), as well as between my current road bike (a 2004 bmc street fire M) and the cfr-1056 S (https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#20BMC+Streetfire+'04+Ma0b4c740.93516d270e608.3389f735.48279g972.07116h410.94493i340j340k1327l813.03517m1133.46447n684.07259o1173.38505p907.61764q1207.72705r1339.48856s913.28422t31.8u40v6w6x10y280z40A0B150C25D368.11028E45.00002F172.5G30H30Z19Carbonda+CFR-1056+Sa0b4c751.16663d268e626.69043f710.8382g948.01838h417.02209i343j343k1330.8l821.1m1125.36663n690.07928o1168.69759p886.7858q1197.75142r1329.58075s890.83414t31.8u40v6w0x10y280z40A0B150C25D380.42484E44.92388F170G30H30Z).
I'm currently enjoying my steel gravel bike (https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/das-octane-one-kode.882388/page-9#post-16899213) (an octane one kode in size M) until the weather gets better for road riding again here in Lausanne.
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So you guys think i should choose the size 56 and maybe a long stem right?
Adam from Carbonda recommendet a size 58 but im quite unsure. I want to sit more sporty on the bike. On Canyon Website when i enter my height and inseam it recomments size M and if i slightly increase my height it recoments a size L. And the Carbonda 1056 in 58 is smaller than the Endurace in size L so im thinking the size 58 might be the right choice for me.
I finally selected my painting and accessories so i probably want to order this weekend.
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I'm not a expert, but I'll share my thoughts on the differences between those sizes (https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/canyon-endurace-cf-sl-disc-8-0-2020-m,canyon-endurace-cf-sl-disc-8-0-2020-l,carbonda-cfr-1056-2020-l,carbonda-cfr-1056-2020-xl/)... Feel free to correct me if I got something wrong -- I'm still learning.
The main things that stand out to me between the L and XL for the CFR-1056 are:
- stack: the XL has a stack figure that's 21mm higher than the L, so that's kind of like 21mm of "headset spacers" that you cannot remove, so even with a slammed stem, you'll be sitting slightly more upright on the XL (given that your saddle position would be the same between the two bikes)
- seat tube length: the XL is 3cm longer, which again all things being equal, means that you'll have 3cm less of exposed seatpost, which means slightly less flex / comfort. Not sure you'll feel that, but still calling it out.
- the XL's longer wheelbase will make it more stable at speed, but a bit less nimble
I don't think the differences in reach are a big deal (less than 10mm): if you want longer reach on the L, use a 110mm stem instead of a 100mm one?
Good luck with the decision!
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I look forward for your feedback, especially the tire clearance, if 32mm is a conservative limit or if it is tight.
Tire clearance looks good. I tested a 40mm Continental Terra Trail up front. Fits!
But not in the back. But with a Pasela in 35mm it works and there is still space.
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201120/thb/0MqUETAc.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1945/0MqUETAc.html)(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201120/thb/Y1qQVhAw.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1945/Y1qQVhAw.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201120/thb/uUJBswov.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1945/uUJBswov.html)(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201120/thb/ksdSnYQF.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1945/ksdSnYQF.html)
Rim is a Hydra from H Plus Son. The painted frame (sizes s) weighs 1150 g, the fork 520 g.
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More pictures ! ;)
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First the bike has to be set up. When the time comes, there will be pictures. :)
But here are some pictures of the painted frame:
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201122/thb/Y0eG8B0J.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1947/Y0eG8B0J.html)(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/201122/thb/0VraMFao.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/1947/0VraMFao.html)
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Hello, a picture of the assembly beginning. Unfortunately, the wheels will take one more month to come due to transport issues. So I buy a set of nearly new mavic I have mount with 32mm Hutchinson Sector tyres for winter ans hard conditions.
I will try to make a more complete set of pictures.
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Mine arrived last week! Continuing with assembly but the headset bearing is not sitting flush with the fork race. Carbonda says this is correct but I have my doubts. Anyone else having this issue?(http://)
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I don't remember to have any problem with that. I will have a look on it in few days, because I plan to change the headset for a better look.
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I've been quite interested in this frame as I have been looking a more 'all-road' inspired frame instead of a adventure/gravel frame with mega-tireclearence. I feel like when the frames have clearence for 50mm tires they get too compromised for road use.
That's why I have been looking for a 35-38mm tire-clearance road geometry inspired frame - which this very much looked like - for 80/20 - 70/30 road/gravel use.
I asked Adam for bunch of question to learn some more about the frame.
He sent me more detailed drawings of the individual sizes of the frame. Very nice!
First of all we can see that this is a Flybike design like many other Carbonda frames.
From this we can learn that the maximum clearance in the frame is 44mm which means that if everything is straight and true you should be able to fit a 36mm WAM tire in there with 4mm of clearance on all sides. In my personal exprience i have been riding bikes with 2mm clearance no problem (road bike) so a 38mm tire should be possible - but it requires everything to be straight.
The fork has slightly more clearance at 47mm so it should swallow a 39mm WAM tire no problem.
http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/fork-cx/127.html
You can also see that the toptube looks different where it meets the headtube. This is because, the frame showed is meant for the completely integrated cabling (which im personally interested in, despite its obvious issues). I looks like they are trying to integrate the headset bearing cover into the frame a little better so the stack of handlebar doesn't look so big. I asked Adam for real pictures of the handlebar with the frame but he didnt have any.
EDIT: Regarding bottombracket you can see on the drawing that the frame is intended to be able to be made with BSA, however Adam told me that for 'single frame order' they would only offer BB86 pressfit... Cant wait until China catches up with T47 :)
I have also attached a drawing I got of the handlebar, CHB1036, which the frame looks to be made for. This is also availiable on thier website as a picture but PDF is much better quality. Makes it easier to figure out what fit you need.
Pictures: http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/handlebar/109.html
Oh, and lastly I have one picture of a complete bike. Looks nice to me!
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In my search I kinda stubled upon the fact that the BH RS1 aerobike lookes like it comes with the CHB1036 handlebar. Well at least it looks extremely similar!
You be the judge. Personally im not a huge fan actually... Its something with angles that throws it off.
I might actually look more towards the FSA NS ACR stem and handlebar instead. Gives me a smidge more flexibility too.
(https://www.triatlonnoticias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/img_5f6455180c5f8-780x470.jpg)
(https://www.triatlonnoticias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/img_5f64555d254b8.jpg)
(https://www.triatlonnoticias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/img_5f64556cd9d92.jpg)
(https://www.3bikes.fr/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/BH-RS1-2.jpg)
(https://www.grinta.be/content/blocks/1600490910-bh-rs1-22.jpg)
(https://www.topbici.es/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/BH-RS1-ACR.jpg)
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars. I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface. The headset spacers are also much nicer on the FSA headset than the Carbona one. Attached in a poor quality photo of the handlebars (have not decided on handle bar drop yet so no top cap or cut steer yet). The finish seems really nice, they are a little more flexible than I had anticipated, although no outside rides yet as it's the middle of winter.
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars. I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface. The headset spacers are also much nicer on the FSA headset than the Carbona one. Attached in a poor quality photo of the handlebars (have not decided on handle bar drop yet so no top cap or cut steer yet). The finish seems really nice, they are a little more flexible than I had anticipated, although no outside rides yet as it's the middle of winter.
Its a nice transition between the headset and frame. I like that!
What 'stem length / handlebar width' combo did you order?
Do you have a picture of the gap between the fork and frame with the new headset?
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Nice build! Has the fork already a hole for the braking cable or how did you manage to get it through the fork? I would like to see some more pictures of your build!
I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars. I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface. The headset spacers are also much nicer on the FSA headset than the Carbona one. Attached in a poor quality photo of the handlebars (have not decided on handle bar drop yet so no top cap or cut steer yet). The finish seems really nice, they are a little more flexible than I had anticipated, although no outside rides yet as it's the middle of winter.
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars.
What top diameter of the headtube do you need for integrated handlebars?
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I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface.
Congratulations on this really nice set up, I am sure you have been enjoying your bike already quite a bit. Do you mind sharing some more details?
What is the exact model FSA ACR headset and what is the overall weight of the bike and how heavy is the wheel set you have chosen?
Thanks,
Rick
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Pity it took so long to get a working headset.
Does anyone have a link to the FSA ACR headset?
My TT-X21 is with the Last mile carrier.
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https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/headset-spares/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr
I bought mine from Mybikeshop, but I just found out they have to order it direct from FSA.
https://mybikeshop.com/products/fsa-no-55r-1-5-acr-headset.html
Another option I'm looking into is Token.
https://www.tokenproducts.com/headsets/integrated/525-cable-box
They are around $50 for the headset and alloy crown, not including spacers. They have different material options as well as angled bearing options. I'm assuming the one that comes with the TT-X21 is 45 degrees, right?
Upgrade options are available as well.
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Just got off the phone with FSA, extremely helpful. They have the FSA ACR in stock and ready to ship, and the tech confirmed that the set-up should work without the FSA top cover, as a long as the top cover used allows for cable and hose passage.
I'm moving foward with the upgrade, will update...
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars. I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface.
Just to double check, the spacers shown on the picture are from FSA, right?
Thanks!
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Just to double check, the spacers shown on the picture are from FSA, right?
Thanks!
That is correct. The spacers are the FSA ones. I found that the FSA spacers were much easier to install than the carbonda supplied ones. The locking mechanism is really solid and you can adjust the headset spacers while the handlebars and cables are still installed.
I also found that the bearing in the FSA headset were a much better shape to install into the carbon cups in the frame. The beveled edge of the bearing has significantly more contact area on the FSA bearings that the carbonda ones.
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What top diameter of the headtube do you need for integrated handlebars?
You need a 1.5in diameter top bearing for the housing to be routed internally. The FSA ACR headset uses that bearing both in the top and bottom.
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That is correct. The spacers are the FSA ones. I found that the FSA spacers were much easier to install than the carbonda supplied ones. The locking mechanism is really solid and you can adjust the headset spacers while the handlebars and cables are still installed.
Thanks Zrider, I tried to find those spacers on FSA's website but failed. I wonder if these are still available?
I also wonder what weight your set up it? I can't get a weight from Carbonda for size 58, I am kind of guessing 1200 considering 54 is stated as 1050 on their website. Fork appears to be on the heavy side, is 480+/-15 about right?
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Contact them directly. I emailed back and forth a few times to order headset spacers and the headset.
I'll try to weigh the bike tomorrow.
Frame weight with cable guides and front hanger was 1161 with a two tone fade paint.
I think fork was in the 400 range but I didn't take a pic of the scale. It is not the lightest frame but with disc and integrated options it was never going to be a super light build .
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Seems like the CHB handlebar is also used on Elia Vivianis bike from last year ::)
(https://cdn-ctstaging.pressidium.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/2020-Cofidis-team-bike-Elia-Viviani-De-Rosa-SK-Pininfarina-11.jpg)
https://cyclingtips.com/2020/01/pro-bikes-of-the-2020-worldtour-part-three/
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars.
Can you measure the reach of those handlebars? Carbonda's numbers aren't clear, as they seem to include part of the stem.
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Stumbled on this...
(https://scontent-cph2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/162447702_3834984023283581_2130349151235130102_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=PJO-KKr8200AX-MB_rK&_nc_ht=scontent-cph2-1.xx&oh=32cb537fa78adc0359a4a7c173917803&oe=6089A0BD)
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Hi Zdrenka89, the picture you've shared is from me. I ride that bike for nearly 4000km since last december. I received the LB wheels in January. The bike with those carbon wheels is very good to my opinion. I am not a "light" rider, so I need a strong setup for long rides (oftenly >200km), and so far, I am very happy with that bike.
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Hi Zdrenka89, the picture you've shared is from me. I ride that bike for nearly 4000km since last december. I received the LB wheels in January. The bike with those carbon wheels is very good to my opinion. I am not a "light" rider, so I need a strong setup for long rides (oftenly >200km), and so far, I am very happy with that bike.
Thats a lot of kilometers! Well done :)
The bike looks great! It looks very well suited for those long endurance rides. Is that 32c tires you have mounted on the picture?
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The bike looks great! It looks very well suited for those long endurance rides. Is that 32c tires you have mounted on the picture?
No, the bike is now equipped with 28mm width LB wheels with 28mm GP5000 in tubeless version. It rides fast, light, safely, and really comfortably.
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Do you mean Light Bicycle wheels? If so, did you get them hookless, and how was the fit of the GP5000 tubeless tires? I ask because some bike brands claim these tires do not yet conform to the ETRTO standard for hookless rims, and thus are not compatible with their wheels.
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Do you mean Light Bicycle wheels? If so, did you get them hookless, and how was the fit of the GP5000 tubeless tires? I ask because some bike brands claim these tires do not yet conform to the ETRTO standard for hookless rims, and thus are not compatible with their wheels.
Hi,
Yes it is Light bicycle Falcon wheels with 36mm depth and 25-28 width. I choose the hook version as regarding the pressure chart on their website and my weight, hookless was not compatible. The 28mm GP5000 fitted quite easily (far more than the 25 on my old alu mavic) with a little help of a plastic lever at the end. Pressure is very stable with few liquid in it.
perhaps 30 or 32 mm tyres could fit on hookless with less pressure. LB has also a 32mm width range of rims that is perfect if you want to ride wider tyres than me. I feel the 2 very comfortable, even on rough roads in French countryside and mountain passes.
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Do you mean Light Bicycle wheels? If so, did you get them hookless, and how was the fit of the GP5000 tubeless tires? I ask because some bike brands claim these tires do not yet conform to the ETRTO standard for hookless rims, and thus are not compatible with their wheels.
I currently run Light Bicycle AR 46 hooked wheels with 25mm Conti 5000 TLs. Before that, I ran the 28mm Conti 5000 tubed tires. Continental itself warns against using it's 5000 TLs on hookless rims, not sure why. They are tough to mount, though. I struggled trying to mount the tubed version and had to take them to my LBS. When I switched to the 25mm tubeless, I was better prepared and I was able to mount them myself with a Crank Bros lever. I feel like not having to deal with a tube made it a bit easier. Once mounted, they seated pretty easily with just a floor pump. Great tires and if I could get them mounted and sealed on Light Bicycle rims, I have to believe anybody can.
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Good to hear that you have good experiences with Light Bicycle. They now also stock the AR46 in Europe (albeit only one configuration), which lowers the price a bit compared to ordering from China with tax-free shipping. I've reserved mine already ;)
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Yeah, I have nothing but good things to say about Light Bicycle's service. I ordered mine through the North American Wherehouse. I just wish they had a wider selection of their road Falcon Pros. If they offered 30mm wide deep section road rims, I'd order a set.
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Yeah, I have nothing but good things to say about Light Bicycle's service. I ordered mine through the North American Wherehouse. I just wish they had a wider selection of their road Falcon Pros. If they offered 30mm wide deep section road rims, I'd order a set.
Me too, it has been about 5-6 years of happy service with dozens of wheelsets for me and others.
Excellent products, and service and if things go wrong(just once), they stand behind their product and warranty.
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Hmm,
Seems I was mistaken about the width of the Falcon Pros. I would prefer at least a 60 deep rim, but the width is good.
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Hmm,
Seems I was mistaken about the width of the Falcon Pros. I would prefer at least a 60 deep rim, but the width is good.
This is the one I ordered the most. The AR56 right?
28mm GP5000 tires fit perfectly on them(but hard to put on).
And Hutchinson sector in 28mm for light gravel(easy to mount, and particularly airtight).
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The image I posted was for the Falcon Pro AR55 rims and wheelsets.
It is listed as being 28 mm wide, but since it's U shaped, it's actually 30 mm at its widest point. If you are following the 105 rule, it makes a difference running the 25mm Conti 5000 TLs. The 25mm 5000 TLs pump up to around 28mm wide and sit flush with my AR 46s. Looks nice and tidy, but apparently not aerodynamically optimized.
I
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The image I posted was for the Falcon Pro AR55 rims and wheelsets.
It is listed as being 28 mm wide, but since it's U shaped, it's actually 30 mm at its widest point. If you are following the 105 rule, it makes a difference running the 25mm Conti 5000 TLs. The 25mm 5000 TLs pump up to around 28mm wide and sit flush with my AR 46s. Looks nice and tidy, but apparently not aerodynamically optimized.
My eyes need an update ::)
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Any pictures of CFR-1056 with integrated handlebar with hidden cables?
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Any pictures of CFR-1056 with integrated handlebar with hidden cables?
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/tuono-disc-carbon-road/ not the carbonda hadnlebar... but it is the same frameset
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Good find! Nice to see a complete bike.
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Hi all! I'm currently working on a design for a 1056 too :D
Something that I could not find: What kind of headset / topcap would I need to run the bike with a regular stem and bar?
And, would these be the right spacers for an acr setup?
https://www.bikeinn.com/fiets/vision-acr-system-spacer-kit/137479155/p
Thanks!
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Carbonda can provide a non-integrated headset for you. This YouTuber showed it in his review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYD-iawkqxI
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Carbonda can provide a non-integrated headset for you. This YouTuber showed it in his review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYD-iawkqxI
Cool! Found it. Just need to remember to order it too :)
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for those that have watched the video, do all those spares come with every frame or did he order them extra?
also can someone tell me, if i have a FSA SLK BB386EVO crankset what bottom bracket do i need for this frame, i've looked at some ZTTO ones on AE and there are a bunch to choose from. Thanks!
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It's a bit of a gamble. I'm in the process of ordering and I just asked to include spares...
You can chat with ztto in the Ali app, they respond quickly!
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This frame has a BB86 bottom bracket, and your crankset has a 30mm spindle, so this should fit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html
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The wait is on ;D
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@Aesch: When did they say they would ship the frame? I ordered my frame (696) two months ago, but it still hasn't shipped. Carbonda said they're having delays due to high demand.
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I ordered 2 days ago.
My previous order was a 696 (great bike!) and that took 6 weeks before departure to painter, then another 2 before shopping.
Shipping was a nightmare as dpd lost it on the "last mile" delivery and basically told me to b. Off when I asked them about it. Carbondswas very helpful and even offered to ship a new frame but eventually I found it..
For this bike I guess production somewhere in June, paint in July, shipment in August, arrival September.
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This frame has a BB86 bottom bracket, and your crankset has a 30mm spindle, so this should fit:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html
thank you!
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They are pretty busy, as to be expected, frame will be ready end of July at the earliest..
I'm not in a rush (but no good at waiting ::))
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/6d/93/zUrbEhW4_t.jpeg) (https://imgbox.com/zUrbEhW4)
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/82/e6/DTLW7l0L_t.jpeg) (https://imgbox.com/DTLW7l0L)
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/8f/04/CtRrn0yK_t.jpeg) (https://imgbox.com/CtRrn0yK)
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/52/f3/RLshw7LY_t.jpeg) (https://imgbox.com/RLshw7LY)
(https://thumbs2.imgbox.com/a7/e5/X3YxvFv7_t.jpeg) (https://imgbox.com/X3YxvFv7)
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Stunning build!! Congrats.
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What's the saddle?
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Nice! Do you have a component list?
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What's the saddle?
A customized GUB 1158 (https://leichtzinn.de.tl/ (https://leichtzinn.de.tl/)).
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Nice! Do you have a component list?
Most parts are listed here: https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/carbonda-fm1056-45373 (https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/carbonda-fm1056-45373).
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
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Can anyone let me know roughly what the price is of the Carbonda CFR 1056?
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
Wow! What a build!
So how does it ride?
@OlieSimpson - I sent you a PM with some listings.
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Beautiful build.
Just to clarify... is it possible to run cables internally?
I know some people prefer running external cables for maintenance reasons but I'm just considering this build with internal cables.
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Wow! What a build!
So how does it ride?
Thanks!
The ride is fast, comfortable but still agile. The geometry is moderate. I will have to remove the spacers to get further down.
On the wide Nextie rim (44ARX), the 30mm tires have a real width of 33 mm. Smooth and comfortable!
Carbon is more direct than my titan bike, but I still have no problems on long tours (5-6 hours).
35 mm tires should fit into the frame without any problems.
Nice ride...
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Beautiful build.
Just to clarify... is it possible to run cables internally?
Thank you! And yes, it's possible.
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Can anyone let me know roughly what the price is of the Carbonda CFR 1056?
This is the stock response from the vendor as of a couple weeks ago (you can send an email to them or fill out the contact form):
option 1: 490USD for external routing with frame ,fork ,seatpost and clamp
option 2: 650USD for internal routing with frame ,fork ,setpost ,clamp and handlebar HB1036
other parts cost :
12USD for headset
26USD for F&R axles
230USD for shipping cost ,shipping time is about one week
Usually the delivery time is about four weeks
There is also a slower shipping option at about half the above cost. And an extra derailleur hangar is $5.
I had mine customized - asked them to cover the holes that I wouldn't use with carbon (cost for that was $5/hole) and it understandably appears to have added to the above estimated delivery timeline.
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/IEaPKzxk.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/IEaPKzxk.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/mnSH3HZD.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/mnSH3HZD.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/cGEALIGB.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/cGEALIGB.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/n0IdBko8.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/n0IdBko8.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/Oe7dvMJW.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/Oe7dvMJW.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/k3E1GHvt.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/k3E1GHvt.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/9YjWMQ19.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/9YjWMQ19.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/7ssuQL22.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/7ssuQL22.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/sSNRZewt.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/sSNRZewt.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/wiEnwj6b.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/wiEnwj6b.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/KHtG7eRo.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/KHtG7eRo.html)
Real nice!
I'm almost done with my parts, can you help me with the length of the bolts you used for the brake calipers? Thanks!
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Thanks!
I do not remember. There were different lengths of screws included.
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OK thanks, I've managed to find the frame is 2cm so the bolts should be 33mm (for anyone searching).
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Aesch, I assume you mean 25mm (instead of 2cm)? If so, you should get the required bolts with your groupset.
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They are part of the groupset.
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Aesch, I assume you mean 25mm (instead of 2cm)? If so, you should get the required bolts with your groupset.
Nope, wing from Carbonda :
The frame is 20MM , You should choose 33mm mounting bolts
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Has anyone thought about building up a 1056 with a farsports F1 handlebar? Does anyone have any idea what kit of spacer I would need to do so? I realise the 1056 is built around a FSA ACR, but I'm not sure how best the F1 can fit with that.
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It's completely sold out now I think.
It should fit with the ACR conversion kit that they offer on the ACR Fsa headset.
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/IEaPKzxk.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/IEaPKzxk.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/mnSH3HZD.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/mnSH3HZD.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/cGEALIGB.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/cGEALIGB.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/n0IdBko8.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/n0IdBko8.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/Oe7dvMJW.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/Oe7dvMJW.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/k3E1GHvt.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/k3E1GHvt.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/9YjWMQ19.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/9YjWMQ19.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/7ssuQL22.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/7ssuQL22.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/sSNRZewt.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/sSNRZewt.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/wiEnwj6b.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/wiEnwj6b.html)
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/KHtG7eRo.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/KHtG7eRo.html)
That is a jawdroppingly stunning build my friend :) This frame is now at the top of my list, for an endurance/light gravel frame.
I'm curious about the tyre clearance out back; Carbonda states a maximum 700x32c but you mentioned that this will fit a 700x35c easily. May I trouble you for a closeup shot of the tyre clearances? Do you think this frame would work with 35c light knobblys? Thank you! :)
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It's completely sold out now I think.
It should fit with the ACR conversion kit that they offer on the ACR Fsa headset.
Thanks! I've been in contact with farsports and am happy to wait. But they aren't sure which spacer kit I should take. Did you mean an ACR conversion kit that farspoorts offer? As I don't see one listed. Is it maybe the vision one? I wasn't sure as the image looks quite different. Or did you mean that FSA offer a conversion kit?
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If you select the steerer on the website there is a list of options, one is ACR.
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That is a jawdroppingly stunning build my friend :) This frame is now at the top of my list, for an endurance/light gravel frame.
I'm curious about the tyre clearance out back; Carbonda states a maximum 700x32c but you mentioned that this will fit a 700x35c easily. May I trouble you for a closeup shot of the tyre clearances? Do you think this frame would work with 35c light knobblys? Thank you! :)
Thank you! The frame will fit 35c with knobblys.
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If you select the steerer on the website there is a list of options, one is ACR.
Thanks! I don't see it for some reason (all I can see is ARC, but maybe that is a typo). I will ask again.
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Thank you! And yes, it's possible.
I have the CFR1056 as well and was thinking to change the handlebar and frame to internal routing.
As far as i remember from the build, there was no routing from the inside of the fork to the brake. Is there a fork for the CFR1056 which has a routing from inside to the brake or how does internal routing work for this frame?
Best regards
Lukas
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Yes there are 2 different forks. You can choose when you order.
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Some BSA frames available now. I got a message if I'd be interested in changing from PF to bsa68 to go to painting and shipment ASAP. Yes ;D
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I have the CFR1056 as well and was thinking to change the handlebar and frame to internal routing.
As far as i remember from the build, there was no routing from the inside of the fork to the brake. Is there a fork for the CFR1056 which has a routing from inside to the brake or how does internal routing work for this frame?
While the pictures on the site show the top hole on the blade, the (lone) hole at the top of my fork was near the base of the steerer tube. I'm not sure there's any way to tell whether your fork has the same without disassembly.
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While the pictures on the site show the top hole on the blade, the (lone) hole at the top of my fork was near the base of the steerer tube. I'm not sure there's any way to tell whether your fork has the same without disassembly.
You can choose. I get both with my frame.
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Frame is painted, now the next wait for transport :o
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Hi all,
I read the thread carefully; my CFR 1056 is actually waiting ar some airport for "connecting flight".... I'm prepared to build it up as soon as it drops in. I'd appreciate some hint on the cable routing for the front derailleur (mechanical): where is the cable stop for the housing? I'll route the cable through the upper headset bearing into the frame; somewhere has to be the cable stop... how would that look like?
Thanks and greetings Michael
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Most likely, you'll need to run a full outer cable from the shifter to the front derailleur. If it's a Shimano derailleur, check the manual. It has a section on how to set up the derailleur with a full outer cable.
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Actually it's a SRAM Force... never seen installations with full cable routing for front derailleur; thanks for the update :-) I'll google the topic.Hopefully it works...
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I had mine customized - asked them to cover the holes that I wouldn't use with carbon (cost for that was $5/hole) and it understandably appears to have added to the above estimated delivery timeline.
Do you mean the holes will be filled and painted over?
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I will be very interested to learn more from your experience. Which fork did you order with it?
There is more than one fork option? I'm not seeing that on their site.
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Internal routing and external routing.
These are my forks, left for full internal routing from the shifter to the caliper. Right with external routing through the fork leg.
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Internal routing and external routing.
These are my forks, left for full internal routing from the shifter to the caliper. Right with external routing through the fork leg.
The fork on the right has another opening for for the housing or the hose to exit the fork, near the caliper?
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Finished my build of the Carbonda FM 1056 a few weeks ago.
(https://s1.imagebanana.com/file/210525/thb/Oe7dvMJW.jpg) (https://www.imagebanana.com/s/2098/Oe7dvMJW.html)
Did you have to specify that non-integrated headset? And what headset is that you're using?
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Carbonda can provide a non-integrated headset for you. This YouTuber showed it in his review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYD-iawkqxI
I think that's the integrated headset. The piece he stacks at 1:49, he mentions in part three that he 3D printed that.
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The fork on the right has another opening for for the housing or the hose to exit the fork, near the caliper?
Yes both, otherwise you can not attach the hose to the caliper ;)
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I'm thinking of getting this frame and putting my Ultegra di2 6870 from an older cross bike on it. Anything I should consider before ordering. I like the look of the all internal but worried about fit so I'll probably just go with external so I can play with the handlebars and stem.
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Once the frame has arrived (reading "flight has been deayed" now for several days already :-() I plan to build it "semi fully integrated": using standard handlebar and stem and routing the cables through the headset into the frame (headset is FSA No. 69 https://www.bike24.de/p1422400.html ). That gives a somewhat clean look, yet keeps the option to play around with stem and handlebar. LAst not least it's easier to install :-) As I plan for a completely mechanical system (SRAM Force + TRP Spyre SLC) I'm a little bit curious how this impacts the friction of the cables. Anyway I have ordered both internal and external routing fork so if it does not work I have a backup :-)
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Yes both, otherwise you can not attach the hose to the caliper ;)
I know, but..well..."pictures or it didn't happen".
Thanks!
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I just checked back here after many months and I'm so glad to see this thread and frame have gotten some traction. Thanks to all who have led the way in showing what this frame can do and become. I'll be building this frame up with Rival AXS group when I can get my hands on one. Until then, I'll be figuring out the paint job and sorting out a Unicorn Ti build with all Chinese components. Cheers all!
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I did too so I ordered the extra fork. @90usd that was an easy choice to allow me full flexibility in the future.
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Can anyone confirm that the headset for this frame is 1.5" top and bottom?
I'm considering ordering both forks as well. I plan to build around a SRAM Force 1x group (when available). I've already purchased a discontinued SRAM 1x GXP 42t crankset. I'm told by Carbonda that they have my size with a BSA68 bbshell and won't have BB86 frames until September (who wouldn't want the BSA68?).
Even if I don't go with full internal routing, I think this headset and stem will look better on the frame than using an non-internal headset.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr?_pos=2&_sid=b8f013fc2&_ss=r
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/non-series-acr-stem?_pos=5&_sid=b8f013fc2&_ss=r
If I use the internal routed fork later, I'd need this anyway.
I'll probably run the hydraulic cables through this bar.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-components/bike-handlebars-accessories/bike-handlebars/road-bike-handlebars/bontrager-elite-aero-vr-cf-road-handlebar/p/23238/
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The first part for my CFR 1056 build project has arrived.
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OK, I'm stupid. I'm asking the vendor if I can return that crankset. When I bought it, I didn't realize that SRAM AXS *requires* the flat top chain, and that chain isn't compatible with the chainring on this set. Oops.
Measure twice...and all that.
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Or, I could just use this:
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/chainrings/products/elliptical-110-bcd-chainrings?variant=14782305828899
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Can anyone confirm that the headset for this frame is 1.5" top and bottom?
Yes, the head tube is 1.5" top and bottom.
http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
Headset: 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR
Finished assembly earlier this week (I have to learn to stage better...) -
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Yes, the head tube is 1.5" top and bottom.
http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
Headset: 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR
Finished assembly earlier this week (I have to learn to stage better...) -
Thanks.
Is that Carbonda's integrated bar and stem? Did they provide that full stack of spacers? Did you have any trouble routing the hydraulics through the bar/stem/steerer/fork?
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Yes, that's Carbonda's integrated handlebar. It does make for a bit of a guessing game to get reach and width both correct on a new frame - but in my case, it happened to work. Only (extremely minor) quibble is that the top cap is a different matte black color than the frame/fork/seatpost/handlebars.
The bike ships with 1x 10mm and 2x 5mm spacers. Fortunately, the FSA ACR 10mm spacers (I'm using 5 here - will dial in exact fit later) are back in stock in their store for $4/each. https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/acr-stem-spacer These were pretty scarce for a few months.
Routing hydraulics was fine. I used a fishing kit & electrical tape. If not for the kit, it probably would have been Very Hard as the hose is not very flexible and there are a couple tight turns.
As an aside - it's tough to keep slack on these hoses within the frame, but there is some play on the routing inside the handlebar to hold some slack. I presume the hose just bends horizontally within the flat section. That's great for me, since I don't want to have to recut the hose if I remove spacers & adjust height. Also the spacers all detach in the middle meaning you don't have to completely disassemble everything to add/remove one or two.
I'm using the $10 headset that Carbonda sells - and it also works great. Pretty sure I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between this and a name brand version.
We didn't have any real assembly issues. The flat mounts for calipers were faced correctly & even the pressfit BB went in smoothly w/o any creaking (yet).
Overall, the frame, fork, seatpost, handlebar combination is a pretty incredible value and the ride is pretty compliant. I'm super pleased.
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Yes, that's Carbonda's integrated handlebar. It does make for a bit of a guessing game to get reach and width both correct on a new frame - but in my case, it happened to work. Only (extremely minor) quibble is that the top cap is a different matte black color than the frame/fork/seatpost/handlebars.
Thanks for all this. How did you specify your bar/stem? What were the options you were offered?
Routing hydraulics was fine. I used a fishing kit & electrical tape. If not for the kit, it probably would have been Very Hard as the hose is not very flexible and there are a couple tight turns.
What is this "fishing kit"? Something you bought somewhere?
Also the spacers all detach in the middle meaning you don't have to completely disassemble everything to add/remove one or two.
The Carbonda spacers and the FSA spacers all detach in the middle?
...even the pressfit BB went in smoothly w/o any creaking (yet).
Were you given an option for BSA68? That's the only option I'm being offered until pressfit is back in stock in September.
Would you have chosen BSA68 over the pressfit if you had the option?
Thanks again.
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I know, but..well..."pictures or it didn't happen".
Thanks!
As soon as everything is in I'll have more pics ;D
Still waiting on the frame and gear to arrive
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Yes, the head tube is 1.5" top and bottom.
http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
Headset: 1-1/2"* 1-1/2”ACR
Finished assembly earlier this week (I have to learn to stage better...) -
Looks great though! What size is it? And what depth are the wheels?
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What is this "fishing kit"? Something you bought somewhere?
Not OP, but I used the internal cable routing kit by ZTTO. Worked well enough.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL66WMP
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Not OP, but I used the internal cable routing kit by ZTTO. Worked well enough.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL66WMP
Thanks!
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How did you specify your bar/stem? What were the options you were offered?
The Handlebar CHB1036 comes in these sizes (length*width in mm): 100*400/110*420/120*420/130*440
The link is here: http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/handlebar/109.html
What is this "fishing kit"?
Apologies for my imprecision, "internal routing cable tool" is a better key search term. As per usual, Park makes one and a dozen other brands sell similar for 1/4 the price.
The Carbonda spacers and the FSA spacers all detach in the middle?
Yes - Carbonda horizontally (looking at spacer from the side, there is a vertical line up the middle), FSA diagonally (i.e., asymmetrically). I think the FSA fit together better and were well worth the cost to upgrade.
Would you have chosen BSA68 over the pressfit if you had the option?
When I ordered, BSA wasn't available in quantity of 1 (implying I had to place a larger, B2B, order...) - and I would have taken that over the PF as additional insurance against creaking. :)
What size is it? And what depth are the wheels?
This was a size M & rims are 56mm depth. 31mm tires in this picture - & they clear with no problem (specified max width is 32mm).
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Just placed an order for the 1056 a few days back. Wing was an absolute pleasure to deal with. Looks like they only have BSA BBs now? I was asking if they had any complaints of debonding/stripping of the bottom bracket for BSA and got this response.
"Our BSA-68 has never had the problem of stripping, because most customers prefer BSA, so we changed to BSA, and we should not change back to BB86 in the future."
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Cool, I really look forward to receiving the frame. Mine is a size 58 and also BSA. Can't wait to build it!
I'll be combining ultegra and GRX parts to get me a really flexible bike to use all-round and for holidays.
Curious to see how it will ride with the wheelset i just built with wide slicks for 'bad weather' (32mm contis, this is my road wheelset for the 696 gravelbike that's already in the stable 8) ). Road riding at 3.5 bar is increadibly smooth.
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The Handlebar CHB1036 comes in these sizes (length*width in mm): 100*400/110*420/120*420/130*440
Thanks for the responses.
It looks like the underside of the bar/stem has a cover for the routing that's held on with two, longitudinal bolts. Is that correct? Are they situated to be compatible with common mounts for integrated cockpits for Garmin/Wahoo-type gps devices?
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Wing told me:
The CHB1036 will have two mounts at this place (see attached picture) .
I guess something like og-evkin cm 005 should fit ( i have one ready to try :) )
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Wing told me:
The CHB1036 will have two mounts at this place (see attached picture) .
I guess something like og-evkin cm 005 should fit ( i have one ready to try :) )
It's a trick of perspective, but it's not really clear from that photo if the bolts are fore/aft or left/right.
If they're fore/aft, I'd like to use this mount:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/wahoo-fitness-elemnt-bolt-two-bolt-out-front-mount
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Routing hydraulics was fine. I used a fishing kit & electrical tape. If not for the kit, it probably would have been Very Hard as the hose is not very flexible and there are a couple tight turns.
As an aside - it's tough to keep slack on these hoses within the frame, but there is some play on the routing inside the handlebar to hold some slack. I presume the hose just bends horizontally within the flat section. That's great for me, since I don't want to have to recut the hose if I remove spacers & adjust height. Also the spacers all detach in the middle meaning you don't have to completely disassemble everything to add/remove one or two.
cme, I have another hydraulic routing question.
I understand that with internal routing the line for the front caliper runs from the left lever into the handlebar, through the handlebar and stem, through the holes at the front of the headset spacers and top cap, into the hole in the steerer tube, down inside the left fork leg and then exits above the caliper. Is that correct?
What I don't understand is the routing for the right lever/rear caliper. How does the hydralic line get from the spacer/top cap holes to the down tube?
Since it doesn't go into the hole in the steerer, does it just wrap around behind the steerer and exit the head tube and into the down tube? Is there no issue with the steerer rubbing on the hydraulic line?
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cme, I have another hydraulic routing question.
I understand that with internal routing the line for the front caliper runs from the left lever into the handlebar, through the handlebar and stem, through the holes at the front of the headset spacers and top cap, into the hole in the steerer tube, down inside the left fork leg and then exits above the caliper. Is that correct?
What I don't understand is the routing for the right lever/rear caliper. How does the hydralic line get from the spacer/top cap holes to the down tube?
Since it doesn't go into the hole in the steerer, does it just wrap around behind the steerer and exit the head tube and into the down tube? Is there no issue with the steerer rubbing on the hydraulic line?
Apologies if I've missed anything, since I haven't been following the thread too closely regarding cabling.
But, yes, on a typical integrated installation through the usual Chinese handlebar/stem, the rear brake line goes through the spacers, through the notch in the lock ring, into the head tube down the front of the steerer, then wraps around the steerer into the down tube. You'll get some rubbing, but it won't be enough to damage the hydraulic lines. It shouldn't be wrapped tight enough to restrict the steering. You'll have more issues getting the hydraulic lines and shift cable housing down through the spacers and lock ring.
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Apologies if I've missed anything, since I haven't been following the thread too closely regarding cabling.
But, yes, on a typical integrated installation through the usual Chinese handlebar/stem, the rear brake line goes through the spacers, through the notch in the lock ring, into the head tube down the front of the steerer, then wraps around the steerer into the down tube. You'll get some rubbing, but it won't be enough to damage the hydraulic lines. It shouldn't be wrapped tight enough to restrict the steering. You'll have more issues getting the hydraulic lines and shift cable housing down through the spacers and lock ring.
Thanks. That's very helpful.
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Agree on the internal cable routing. I don't hear any rubbing (or rattling).
Handlebar bolts are fore/aft. The Geometry tab has the dimensions (i.e., M5 bolts on 44mm spacing). There is not a cover per se that can detach to help with cable routing (at least mine didn't have a removable cover), these bolts are just threaded into the handlebar.
Cobbled together a second, commuter version, from a mish mash of parts tonight. I'm done bike building for a while. :)
Also, weird that the preview is upside down...
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not bad for a commuterbike 8)
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Agree on the internal cable routing. I don't hear any rubbing (or rattling).
Handlebar bolts are fore/aft. The Geometry tab has the dimensions (i.e., M5 bolts on 44mm spacing). There is not a cover per se that can detach to help with cable routing (at least mine didn't have a removable cover), these bolts are just threaded into the handlebar.
Cobbled together a second, commuter version, from a mish mash of parts tonight. I'm done bike building for a while. :)
Also, weird that the preview is upside down...
What are the two bolts for if they're not for the removal of a cover? They're they're for externally mounting things like GPS?
I want to say that I'm very glad there's a dedicated 1056 thread here with input from several people who've done builds similar to what I have in mind.
I'm close to making the decision that I'm not going to use the integrated bar/stem. I don't like giving up the flexibility of changing reach/width and bar angle. So I'm thinking of using this bar:
https://www.wiggle.com/prime-doyenne-aero-handlebar
On this stem:
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-os-160-acr-non-series-stem/137705144/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11450724&country=us
With this headset (or the internal routing stem that Carbonda can provide):
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr
I have three questions I hope you folks can help me with.
1. On bars like the Carbonda integrated, or on stems like the one linked above, how is the headset bearing preload adjusted? Is there a top cap for tightening under that cover? Is that cover somehow used for preloading the bearing?
2. On the handlebar linked above, there are five routing holes. Two are right near the shifters, two are more toward the stem, and on is in the center. I presume the two near the stem are exit points for cables and hoses than don't route internally and that I would just bypass them, bringing my two hydraulic lines out the center hole, through the stem, headset and steerer/down tube (respectively). For those with experience with hydraulic lines, is that 90-degree bend workable, or clearly too tight?
You can see that center hole in this image:
https://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/102430670/Prime-Doyenne-Aero-Handlebar-Aero-Bars-Black-PDAH440-12.jpg
3. Do any of you have any opinion on whether the FSA headset linked above would be fully interchangeable with the Carbonda integrated headset and whether there are any advantages or disadvantages to using it, over the one I can order with the frame?
Thanks.
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For the FSA ACR system, the top cover is cosmetic. You'll adjust the pre load using the hex nut on the compression plug.
Yes, the center hole on the bars is where you'll route your lines through the stem. I use an FSA ACR headset and compression plug on my TanTan X21, but I've never used the complete ACR system. I'll just say that any 90 degree bend is going to be problematic. If you have a 1.5 to 1.5 headset on your frame, it should, for the most part be compatible, but YMMV. None of the bearings I used, the ones provided nor the FSA ones fit exactly. ID and OD were not the problem, they are all a snug fit. The stack height varies a lot between bearing sets. Microspacers took care of that issue though.
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You'll adjust the pre load using the hex nut on the compression plug.
Thanks.
I'll expose my ignorance here, as I don't understand this.
As far as I know (not very far), tightening the hex nut on a compression plug expands it so that it grips the inside of the steerer, and that's all tightening it does. It's tightening the top cap on top of the stem that draws the steerer upwards, preloading the bearings.
What am I getting wrong?
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Thanks.
I'll expose my ignorance here, as I don't understand this.
As far as I know (not very far), tightening the hex nut on a compression plug expands it so that it grips the inside of the steerer, and that's all tightening it does. It's tightening the top cap on top of the stem that draws the steerer upwards, preloading the bearings.
What am I getting wrong?
Apologies, you are absolutely correct. I don't know what I was thinking. For sure, that's how the FSA system works with the integrated Chinese handlebar set-up on my frame, tighten the compression bolt, set the preload with the top cap bolt, then lock everything down with the stem bolts. I can't say for sure, but I can't imagine that it would work differently with the FSA top cover given the way the compression bolt works.
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Apologies, you are absolutely correct. I don't know what I was thinking. For sure, that's how the FSA system works with the integrated Chinese handlebar set-up on my frame, tighten the compression bolt, set the preload with the top cap bolt, then lock everything down with the stem bolts. I can't say for sure, but I can't imagine that it would work differently with the FSA top cover given the way the compression bolt works.
No worries. I'm still a little confused because the Carbonda integrated handlebars and the FSA ACR stem both use what looks like a cosmetic cap. The instructions for the FAS stem suggest otherwise. It indicates that the expander assembly is not included, but they show one of the longer variety. They say to slide it in, finger tight, and then tighten it to 6-9nm via the 5mm bolt. Then they say to tighten the top cap, which with this product that's what they're calling that piece that I thought was cosmetic, via a 6mm bolt, in order to preload the bearings.
This only makes sense to me if a) that piece they're calling a top cap is structural, and b) that 6mm bolt screws into the expander to draw it up as it's tightened...which I don't see as possible.
The closest thing I can find to this operation on youtube is at about 2:00 in this video:
https://youtu.be/eKd2nIo_W1o?t=119
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Here's FSA's expander for ACR:
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/star-nut-and-compression-device/road-mtb/compression-device-acr
I don't see any way a nut through that system'ss top cap would draw the steerer up to preload the bearings. Clearly there's something I don't know, here.
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This clearly implies that the fixing bolt *does* attach to the expander and draw it up. I just don't see how.
https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/files/index/download/id/20aec2220a8a56428675ea3c8bb38a0a652/
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Once you have the set up, it will all make sense. The hex to tighten the compression plug/expander is definitely bigger than the top cap bolt, because #3 screws into the expander as shown. It doesn't take too much torque on the top cap screw to load the headset. If you have to tighten it too much, something is wrong. I can snap a couple of pictures once I'm home in a couple of hours.
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Once you have the set up, it will all make sense. The hex to tighten the compression plug/expander is definitely bigger than the top cap bolt, because #3 screws into the expander as shown. It doesn't take too much torque on the top cap screw to load the headset. If you have to tighten it too much, something is wrong. I can snap a couple of pictures once I'm home in a couple of hours.
So there is one bolt inside the expander that, well...expands it, and a second bolt that goes though the shaped top cap and connects *to* the bolt in the expander, and tightening this second bolt draws the steerer upward, preloading the bearings?
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Basically. That's how something like 99% of expander plugs work. Some Cervelo's have a plug you glue in place rather than an expanding plug.
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Yes, theoretically you press down on the spacers/stem around the steerertube to preload the bearings (instead of 'pulling up' so to speak).
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Thanks. I ultimately found photos and videos that clarified this for me. The source of my confusion is that my circa 2003 Cane Creek threadless headset isn't like that at all.
On my current headset the principle is the same. I tighten the expander and then use the top cap to preload the bearing, but there's a difference.
My top cap *is* the bolt. It has a hex hole in the top of the cap. A narrower part of the underside of the cap extends down to the expander and threads to the *outside* of where the nut in the expander enters. It doesn't have a bolt through a hole that threads in down inside of the expander bolt. Turning the entire top cap raises the expander.
I had no idea that my configuration was unusual, and that something else had become the norm in the interim.
Now it all makes perfect sense.
So, if that shoulder-shaped top cap on the Carbonda/FSA is what bears the compression load, I'm guessing it's strong enough for the initial pre-load of the bearings, until everything gets locked into place by the stem bolts. That suggests that piece is not plastic. Does anyone here know?
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It could well be (a form of) plastic. The compression needed to preload the bearings is not much.
Cme can tell us ;D
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Have the examples of the CFR 1056 frames that have been delivered to you folks (which were intended for internal routing) delivered with routing guide lines through the frame? Were they delivered with the foam covering for lines and hoses that are intended to prevent rattling, or are those usually supplied with components (or purchased separately)?
Thanks.
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I once asked Carbonda to include anti-noise foam tubes with my frame (696) but it was useless. The tubing was about 3x bigger than the hole you're supposed to push it through. I ended up buying Capgo noise foam. That worked perfectly.
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I once asked Carbonda to include anti-noise foam tubes with my frame (696) but it was useless. The tubing was about 3x bigger than the hole you're supposed to push it through. I ended up buying Capgo noise foam. That worked perfectly.
Thanks.
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I just ordered my frame.
I'm looking for recommendations for optimal pastes, lubricants, thread locks, grease and fluids for my upcoming build. What would you recommend for the following:
- Grease for seating the headset into the head tube
- Lubricant the headset bearings
- Carbon paste for attaching aluminum stem to the carbon steerer tube
- Grease for treating the BSA68 threads before installing the bottom bracket
- Lubricant for the bottom bracket bearings
- Treating carbon seat tube before installing carbon seat post
- Thread lock for SRAM hydraulic brake calipers
- Lubricant for for thru-axles
- Thread lock for thru axles
- Lubricant for crankset spindle (SRAM GXP)
- Thread lock for crankset spindle
- Thread lock for pedals
- DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers
- DOT hydraulic brake fluid
- Lubricant for installation of brake disk lock rings
- Lubricant for installation for cassette
- Thread lock for installation of rear derailleur
Please tell me if there's any place where I SHOULDN'T be using anything.
Please tell me about anything you think I've missed.
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I never use thread lock.
Tacx carbon paste on steerer and seat post.
All installation part / threads I use Morgan aqua proof. Alternative is shimano 'anti seize'. Both work.
Bearing grease: shimano grease. You won't need this for a while with new bearings.
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It could well be (a form of) plastic. The compression needed to preload the bearings is not much.
The supplied compression plug is aluminum. Very sturdy and (relatively) very heavy. Agree that these don't need a lot of tension & over torqueing can make the headset bearings less effective.
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The supplied compression plug is aluminum. Very sturdy and (relatively) very heavy. Agree that these don't need a lot of tension & over torqueing can make the headset bearings less effective.
Thanks!
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I use Finish Line Premium for everything that requires grease. It's carbon fiber safe for sure. If you are lubing anything for installation near your brake discs, be super careful not to get even a bit on the discs. They will squeal like crazy, cleaning them is a pain, you'll have to replace your pads, and you'll hate life in general.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about your headset bearings at all, other than to seat them with grease and do your best to keep water and grime out of the headset.
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I never use thread lock.
Tacx carbon paste on steerer and seat post.
All installation part / threads I use Morgan aqua proof. Alternative is shimano 'anti seize'. Both work.
Bearing grease: shimano grease. You won't need this for a while with new bearings.
Aren't the bolts of some components already have thread locker applied?
For me, I usually apply thread locker to bolts for mounting, like bottle cage, pannier, and computer mounts. These area might rattle. The rattle will loosen the bolts. Loose bottle cage bolts will destroy the mounting points. I've learned the lesson.
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Aren't the bolts of some components already have thread locker applied?
For me, I usually apply thread locker to bolts for mounting, like bottle cage, pannier, and computer mounts. These area might rattle. The rattle will loosen the bolts. Loose bottle cage bolts will destroy the mounting points. I've learned the lesson.
I guess it is no problem to add thread locker in those areas. I've never needed it. I build the bike and then check all bolts @4 weeks and 3 months. If they have not loosened then, they will stay put for a while.
You are correct that some parts come with prepared bolts. The stem bolts on my ritchey stem came pre-thread-locked I just remembered, others did not.
One point I would advice thread locker is on the disc brake bolts if you use 6bolt rotors. Those bolts will come pre applied too.
And the tip to be extra super carefully not to get anything on the rotor is very good too
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While you could apply everything you listed( threadlocker and grease everywhere ) here is what I usually do:
- Grease for seating the headset into the head tube. Marine grease to delay rust
- Lubricant the headset bearings Marine grease to delay rust
- Carbon paste for attaching aluminum stem to the carbon steerer tube. No
- Grease for treating the BSA68 threads before installing the bottom bracket. Copper grease.
- Lubricant for the bottom bracket bearings. Marine grease.
- Treating carbon seat tube before installing carbon seat post. Carbon paste
- Thread lock for SRAM hydraulic brake calipers. Sometimes
- Lubricant for for thru-axles. No
- Thread lock for thru axles. No
- Lubricant for crankset spindle (SRAM GXP). Marine grease
- Thread lock for crankset spindle. No
- Thread lock for pedals. Copper grease, they will tighten as you ride but won't seize
- DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers. No
- DOT hydraulic brake fluid. Buy small bottles as they saturate air quickly. Cheaper in Motorbike stores.
- Lubricant for installation of brake disk lock rings. No
- Lubricant for installation for cassette. No
- Thread lock for installation of rear derailleur. No
Please tell me if there's any place where I SHOULDN'T be using anything.
Please tell me about anything you think I've missed.
Do not lubricate the frame when you press a BB use a lockcompound instead.
Do not lubricate your cassette and rings, only the chain and wipe it out after (I know many who do this, so just to say it ;) )
Sometimes clean and lubricate the bearings in the derailleur pulleys, and your pedals.
Clean the pivots of your derailleur, the ones that move when you shift.
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You've all been very helpful. Thank you.
More responses are welcomed!
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DOT grease for connecting hydraulic brake hoses to calipers. No
Hmm, in every installation video I've watched, at the lever-end, the olives got DOT grease and the threaded fitting got some sort of lubricant. I realize I only specified the caliper-end.
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After the new bike is built up, I'm going for a professional fit.
For me, the most complicated part of it his the stem.
Cleat and saddle position are adjustable. Handlebar position is a
function of spacer stack and stem angle and length. Spacer stack can
be adjusted. Angle and length are changed by swapping out the stem.
I'm going with a particular stem: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/stems/road-gravel/ns-acr-stem
The angle is fixed, so spacer stack becomes important. What I can't
determine before the fitting, is the length.
I don't think a fitting requires proper headset bearing preload. I
think I can use whatever headset the bike fitter wants to swap in
and out, clamped to the uncut steerer, for determination of
position. After that, I can purchase the right length of the stem I
plan to use, and only then, cut the carbon steerer.
What do you think?
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I would agree that your headset preload doesn't have to be dialed in for a bike fitting. If the headset is too loose, however, it can rock back and forth a good few centimeters which could possible throw off your fitting. If you don't have any major issues with your frame or headset stack height, setting a correct preload is pretty trivial. I would hate to find out that there are issues, though, at the same time I'm trying to get my bike professionally fit.
Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?
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I would agree that your headset preload doesn't have to be dialed in for a bike fitting. If the headset is too loose, however, it can rock back and forth a good few centimeters which could possible throw off your fitting. If you don't have any major issues with your frame or headset stack height, setting a correct preload is pretty trivial. I would hate to find out that there are issues, though, at the same time I'm trying to get my bike professionally fit.
Love that FSA set-up. Will your bike fitter be able switch out stems, and handlebars for that matter, for fit?
Thanks.
I meant to write about swapping out stems above, not headsets. My hope would be that pulling up the streerer as hard as possible before tightening stem bolts would be sufficient to prevent enough movement to undermine a fitting.
I will borrow a 90mm stem off my current bike for this, as a starting point.
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I just finished my build of this frame with the integrated handlebars. I ended up having to order the FSA ACR headset and spacers as the bearing and race in the Carbonda headset did not sit flush in the fork/frame interface. The headset spacers are also much nicer on the FSA headset than the Carbona one. Attached in a poor quality photo of the handlebars (have not decided on handle bar drop yet so no top cap or cut steer yet). The finish seems really nice, they are a little more flexible than I had anticipated, although no outside rides yet as it's the middle of winter.
Hi folks,
Is my impression from this picture right?
1) that you have some possibility for removing spacers under the handlebar without the fork extending beyond the top cap? If yes, how much adjustment range is there?
2) the geometry drawings on the carbonda site are confusing. It looks on the picture like the effective stem angle is 0 degrees, along the bottom of the stem. So as if you used a 0 degree stem with a really low stack height. Did I get that right?
Thanks
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Work in progress 8)
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Work in progress 8)
Very nice. Are you happy with Carbonda's paintwork? No plan to run the derailleur cables full-internal?
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No, running derailleur cables through another 4x~90 degree angle is bad for shifting quality (experience from other everything- integrated bike). As well as it is a nightmare to route the hoses through both the stem/handlebar as well as the head tube. There is space for the brake hoses but I'm already having trouble getting them rub-free. Let alone with another 2 through the same space.
The 2 wires outside don't bother me.
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Can you tell me what this plug is? It's been driving me crazy for weeks.
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I believe it's used for routing Di2 cables, although I'm not exactly sure how the routing goes, as I never use Di2 (such a mess of cables) :D
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I believe it's used for routing Di2 cables, although I'm not exactly sure how the routing goes, as I never use Di2 (such a mess of cables) :D
The Di2 cables route through the rectangular plate on top of the downtube, as I understand it. The frame comes with a plate with the openings for the cables, and a blank plate for non-Di2 applications. Can you confirm, Aesch?
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Yes, it does. I asked for some extra hardware so I have a plethora of plugs, plates, stops, covers and screws :o
Build finished today, left to do is cut the steerer and tape the handlebar as soon as I've got the fit dialed in.
Remarks:
The bottom guide for the front derailleur is hard to fit with wires etc, I broke off a piece while pushing it back in. This is the only thing not quadruple in supply.
The rear axle screeched like a bat out of hell, this ended up being the screw-in-plate (or does it have an actual name?) on the cassette side. 1 min fix with one of the supplied extras.
A grx rear derailleur will NOT fit with the clutch in the on position. This interferes with the rear chain stay (I use one since I intend to run a 34 or even bigger cassette when riding with the kids in a trailer).
The paintwork is nice. Not perfect but really good to my eyes. The photos don't do the blue colour justice.
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Can you tell me what this plug is? It's been driving me crazy for weeks.
No idea...
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No idea...
That's funny.
Now I'm worried about not buying all of the spares you bought. Did you specify and pay for every spare you wanted and received? I only bought an extra derailleur hanger and an extra seatpost clamp.
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Remarks:
The bottom guide for the front derailleur is hard to fit with wires etc, I broke off a piece while pushing it back in. This is the only thing not quadruple in supply.
Speaking about the the bottom bracket guide and the FD: is there an aouter cable stop to operate a FD w/o integrated cable stop (like any SRAM derailleur)? I think this would be the only option if the cables run through the headset/steerer tube into the frame... thanks for any hint! I got myself an Ultegra derailleur as a backup but would like to stick with the SRAM Force hardware if possible...
I'm still waiting for my frame; it was hanging around two weeks at some airport waiting for a delayed flight :-/
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No I did not specify, I bought 2 extra derailleur hangers but I got 4. There will be a bag of spare parts, I'm not sure what is standard. Similar thing with my 696 gravelbike, I got a lot of spares from. Them.
if you have already ordered but it is not on its way yet you can just mail them to edit your order and add some specific parts. It is easy!
(and maybe if you're going to, would you be willing to add an extra bottom cable guide x2 for me? and forward them by the time they are here? I'll cover the cost)
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Speaking about the the bottom bracket guide and the FD: is there an aouter cable stop to operate a FD w/o integrated cable stop (like any SRAM derailleur)? I think this would be the only option if the cables run through the headset/steerer tube into the frame... thanks for any hint! I got myself an Ultegra derailleur as a backup but would like to stick with the SRAM Force hardware if possible...
I'm still waiting for my frame; it was hanging around two weeks at some airport waiting for a delayed flight :-/
Yes there is, the bottom.guide has a slot where the cable stops and where you can fit one of those long-rip stops before it routes upwards To the derailleur.
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A grx rear derailleur will NOT fit with the clutch in the on position. This interferes with the rear chain stay (I use one since I intend to run a 34 or even bigger cassette when riding with the kids in a trailer).
Can you clarify this with a picture? I don't see how this can be a problem.
Also, here's a bike that has a similar top-tube hole for Di2 cables. Although that's pretty much the only bike I can think of that has it.
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Yes there is, the bottom.guide has a slot where the cable stops and where you can fit one of those long-rip stops before it routes upwards To the derailleur.
Made my day... thanks!
Btw. I should have read this thread earlier. The only hardware I ordered additionally is a derailleur hanger. I think I'll wait and see what's in the box and ask Wing for some additional spare parts (seat clamp on the top of the list). They may send them by bicycle; hope I do not need them very soon...
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Can you clarify this with a picture? I don't see how this can be a problem.
Also, here's a bike that has a similar top-tube hole for Di2 cables. Although that's pretty much the only bike I can think of that has it.
Will do as soon as I get the chance. the problem is the lever of the clutch interferes with the chain stay so keeps the derailleur further down/towards the floor than it should be for the smallest cog.
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With and without clutch
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No I did not specify, I bought 2 extra derailleur hangers but I got 4. There will be a bag of spare parts, I'm not sure what is standard. Similar thing with my 696 gravelbike, I got a lot of spares from. Them.
if you have already ordered but it is not on its way yet you can just mail them to edit your order and add some specific parts. It is easy!
(and maybe if you're going to, would you be willing to add an extra bottom cable guide x2 for me? and forward them by the time they are here? I'll cover the cost)
What you're telling me suggests a certain disconnect between the sales department and the shipping department. My salesperson was "Katie". The inclusion of spares was something I dealt with in specific terms. I asked for (and paid $5 for) an extra derailleur hanger. Likewise with an extra seat post clamp (which she forgot on the final invoice, and has promised to include free of charge). I don't know if being specific screwed up any hope for getting a grab-bag of spares, or not.
I'm not planning to use a front derailleur, and my rear mech will be SRAM AXS, so the only reason I'd have for removing the bottom plate would be to increase access when routing the rear brake hydraulic hose, though I suspect that won't be necessary.
My gut tells me that querying "Katie" about the contents of a bag of spares would be fruitless...or perhaps even counterproductive.
I don't have any issue with mentioning to her that I heard from someone else that the guides on the bottom bracket cover can be fragile and broke during installation, and that I would love to have a spare. We can see what happens.
While we're talking I have a couple of questions based upon your previous response. Do you think the SRAM 12-speed rear mech for a 10-36 cassette will conflict with the chainstay? And when you talk about the trouble you had with the rear thru-axle on the cassette side, do you mean on the cassette side of the bike (right) or the cassette side of the right chainstay (left)? Was the part you swapped part of the derailleur hanger assembly on the right chainstay, or something else?
My frame has to be painted so it's not likely that anything will be shipped for a while.
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Made my day... thanks!
Btw. I should have read this thread earlier. The only hardware I ordered additionally is a derailleur hanger. I think I'll wait and see what's in the box and ask Wing for some additional spare parts (seat clamp on the top of the list). They may send them by bicycle; hope I do not need them very soon...
If you wait and see what's in the box and then ask, won't you be subject to additional shipping and Paypal fees?
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What you're telling me suggests a certain disconnect between the sales department and the shipping department. My salesperson was "Katie". The inclusion of spares was something I dealt with in specific terms. I asked for (and paid $5 for) an extra derailleur hanger. Likewise with an extra seat post clamp (which she forgot on the final invoice, and has promised to include free of charge). I don't know if being specific screwed up any hope for getting a grab-bag of spares, or not.
I'm not planning to use a front derailleur, and my rear mech will be SRAM AXS, so the only reason I'd have for removing the bottom plate would be to increase access when routing the rear brake hydraulic hose, though I suspect that won't be necessary.
My gut tells me that querying "Katie" about the contents of a bag of spares would be fruitless...or perhaps even counterproductive.
I don't have any issue with mentioning to her that I heard from someone else that the guides on the bottom bracket cover can be fragile and broke during installation, and that I would love to have a spare. We can see what happens.
While we're talking I have a couple of questions based upon your previous response. Do you think the SRAM 12-speed rear mech for a 10-36 cassette will conflict with the chainstay? And when you talk about the trouble you had with the rear thru-axle on the cassette side, do you mean on the cassette side of the bike (right) or the cassette side of the right chainstay (left)? Was the part you swapped part of the derailleur hanger assembly on the right chainstay, or something else?
My frame has to be painted so it's not likely that anything will be shipped for a while.
That works for me :)
I did not specify the exact spares, other than the derailleur hangers. As I've read previously with the 696 frame they have some sort of "spare parts bags" that are included and I got 2 of them. In both bags were 2 derailleur hangers, several plugs, screws, cover plates and the screw in bit where the thru axle goes In.
This is easy:
Green circle is the part. Blue arrow the screw which attaches it to the frame and the red arrow the tip of the axle. Just unscrew axle, undo screw, replace plate and vice versa with new plate.
As to the sram rear derailleur, don't know. If there are no particular handles it should fit I guess.
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That works for me :)
I did not specify the exact spares, other than the derailleur hangers. As I've read previously with the 696 frame they have some sort of "spare parts bags" that are included and I got 2 of them. In both bags were 2 derailleur hangers, several plugs, screws, cover plates and the screw in bit where the thru axle goes In.
This is easy:
Green circle is the part. Blue arrow the screw which attaches it to the frame and the red arrow the tip of the axle. Just unscrew axle, undo screw, replace plate and vice versa with new plate.
As to the sram rear derailleur, don't know. If there are no particular handles it should fit I guess.
Thanks. To be clear, the green-circled part had to be replaced, and you had spares without requesting them?
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If you wait and see what's in the box and then ask, won't you be subject to additional shipping and Paypal fees?
Sure, but as the frame is shipped (already 4 weeks ago) I have to pay anyway. As written: if only I would have foun this thread earlier...
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Thanks. To be clear, the green-circled part had to be replaced, and you had spares without requesting them?
I requested spares of everything but did not specify I also meant the seatclamp and bottom guide.
I got the same part as spares (2 each) with the previous frame I ordered without requesting them. Im pretty sure they add them to all frames.
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With and without clutch
You may have attached the derailleur incorrectly? It should never get that close to the chainstay. My Ultegra RX should be almost identical to GRX and it's much further down, and also more outbound.
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It looks identical to my other bike with ultegra rear derailleur.
Could be wrong, maybe you can share a picture so I can compare?
Shifting is perfect. Maybe the B screw is different? That could explain the position difference I guess.
In the pics, the only difference I see is the angle in the derailleur hanger. And when compared to other frame pictures (from this topic and the dolan tuono it looks the same.)
One more thought is that I run an 11 28 cassette, it might be better with a 11 32 ish since that would need more B tension hence moving the derailleur downwards.
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The difference I see between those two photos is that on your bike, the hanger points to 7:00 and on the other bike the hanger points to 6:00.
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I also ordered from Katie. I only asked for an extra derailleur hanger. So wondering what other spares come or if I should ask for extra?
I'm getting mine painted too, so not expecting shipping until mid-september at the earliest.
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I don't want to get too excited, but today Katie told me that my painted frame will be delivered in 2-3 weeks. I'm expecting it to take longer than that.
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I don't want to get too excited, but today Katie told me that my painted frame will be delivered in 2-3 weeks. I'm expecting it to take longer than that.
Amazing! When did you order?
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Could be wrong, maybe you can share a picture so I can compare?
Shifting is perfect. Maybe the B screw is different? That could explain the position difference I guess.
My first guess would be to check how the derailleur is attached to the hanger. Did you use the bottom tab, as in this picture?
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My first guess would be to check how the derailleur is attached to the hanger. Did you use the bottom tab, as in this picture?
Will check when I get back home on sunday.
The derailleur 6 vs 7 o clock positioning is the shape of the derailleur itself so not something I can change.
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Amazing! When did you order?
August 11.
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I ordered on the 10th with Katie hopefully I get the same news shortly as well. I asked for 3 spare hangers and headsets I didn't think about seat clamp gonna have to ask for that as well. Thanks for the tip
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I ordered on the 10th with Katie hopefully I get the same news shortly as well. I asked for 3 spare hangers and headsets I didn't think about seat clamp gonna have to ask for that as well. Thanks for the tip
I wasn't offered a delivery date. That was her response when I asked.
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Will check when I get back home on sunday.
The derailleur 6 vs 7 o clock positioning is the shape of the derailleur itself so not something I can change.
I'm suggesting that this part is at 7:00 and might need to be at 6:00. I've never seen one that didn't point straight down.
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@Aesch - I've had it with an Ultegra RX dérailleur that the positioning relative to the cassette was off. It was how it was sitting on the hanger. Unlike some of the road dérailleurs, it's quite easy for something to be misaligned when installing.
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I'm suggesting that this part is at 7:00 and might need to be at 6:00. I've never seen one that didn't point straight down.
I understood, thanks. If I look at other bikes for example the red one in this topic the derailleur is the same.
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@Aesch - I've had it with an Ultegra RX dérailleur that the positioning relative to the cassette was off. It was how it was sitting on the hanger. Unlike some of the road dérailleurs, it's quite easy for something to be misaligned when installing.
Thanks all, can't wait to check! ;D
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August 11.
Crazy I ordered the same day. Fingers crossed! I have to order some wheels now.
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Cool, look forward to all the builds!
Carbonda will send me a replacement bottom cover/guide.
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I understood, thanks. If I look at other bikes for example the red one in this topic the derailleur is the same.
Ah. I understand.
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Sure, but as the frame is shipped (already 4 weeks ago) I have to pay anyway. As written: if only I would have foun this thread earlier...
DPD dropped a parcel today :-) in fact there was a bag with some hardware, including what I ordered, cable guides for the frame holes but no extra seat clamp or whatever. So I'll approach Wing to order some more spare parts.
In general the frame looks really good. I quickly installed the headset (not finally, just dry) and the fork sits with minimal gap in the frame still turning freely, the crown race went smoothly onto the steerer, seat post matches tightly... nothing to complain so far!
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PICTURES?
Congratulations! Did you order paint? When did you place your order?
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Yes there is, the bottom.guide has a slot where the cable stops and where you can fit one of those long-rip stops before it routes upwards To the derailleur.
Frame arrived today! Like Chrismas and Easter at the same day :-)
I quickly had a look: from a 1st glance I could not identify something like a cable stop in the bottom guide. Rather it looks/feels like I can run the outer cable around the BB upwards to the point where the cable exits the frame. @ Aesch, or did you mean that? Btw. what is meant by "those long-rip stops"?
I'll try to make a picture; says usually more than 1000 words.
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DPD dropped a parcel today :-) in fact there was a bag with some hardware, including what I ordered, cable guides for the frame holes but no extra seat clamp or whatever. So I'll approach Wing to order some more spare parts.
In general the frame looks really good. I quickly installed the headset (not finally, just dry) and the fork sits with minimal gap in the frame still turning freely, the crown race went smoothly onto the steerer, seat post matches tightly... nothing to complain so far!
Nice! Care to share what components you will be putting on the bike? BB, saddle, etc.?
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I emailed to cancel today since I found a Santa Cruz stigmata locally. But I was just was told my frame is painted. Not sure if they painted it right away because I asked to cancel or if it was just the timing but since it's painted I guess I'm keeping it haha.
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Katie just sent me the photo. I went matte RAL 2012 it looks rad. I'm stoked.
(http://)
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Katie just sent me the photo. I went matte RAL 2012 it looks rad. I'm stoked.
(http://)
That looks gorgeous! I have a feeling it looks better in real life, with outdoor lighting.
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I'm hoping it's like the new Santa Cruz blur color.
I'm planning to but decals of these designs I made. I was originally going to buy the 707 but decided endurance road bike was a better fit. I thought about gettingthe graphics painted but it was more than I wanted to spend.
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Frame arrived today! Like Chrismas and Easter at the same day :-)
I quickly had a look: from a 1st glance I could not identify something like a cable stop in the bottom guide. Rather it looks/feels like I can run the outer cable around the BB upwards to the point where the cable exits the frame. @ Aesch, or did you mean that? Btw. what is meant by "those long-rip stops"?
I'll try to make a picture; says usually more than 1000 words.
So for me the outside cable runs up to / into the bottom guide where it stops in this (attached picture). The cable itself runs upwards to the derailleur.
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Katie just sent me the photo. I went matte RAL 2012 it looks rad. I'm stoked.
(http://)
That looks good. When did you place your order?
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I ordered August 8th but I chose the slower shipping so I think I got bumped to the back of the line :P
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That looks good. When did you place your order?
August 10th it's an XL so it was in stock so that helped as well. She said shipping in 3 days.
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August 10th it's an XL so it was in stock so that helped as well. She said shipping in 3 days.
I ordered an in-stock medium the following day. I imagine mine will take a bit longer because I'm getting two paint colors that require masking, and a clear coat.
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So for me the outside cable runs up to / into the bottom guide where it stops in this (attached picture). The cable itself runs upwards to the derailleur.
Got it. After a closer look today by removing the bottom bracket guide I saw that the outer cable stops there. I was confused by the liner running through the guide upwards through the hole. Now it's crystal clear :-)
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Nice! Care to share what components you will be putting on the bike? BB, saddle, etc.?
I bought the frame as replacement for my damaged Cannondale SuperSix. So basically I take over what was installed plus change to disc brakes and different crank (as C'dale is BB30):
- SRAM Force 2/10 groupset all mechanical,
- TRP Spyre SLC brakes (have Spyres already at my Cyclocross w. Force 11, works great),
- LightBicycles carbon wheelset 35mm on Novatec hubs,
- Rotor ALDHU cranks,
- running the cables "semi-integrated" nito the head tube through FSA 69 headset, allows for standard stem and steerer. I want to keep the freedom to adjust here, rather than having all integrated (which might be a bit problematic running mechanical discs as well). Handlebar is a Syntace CDR which I really love, stem I'll play around with what's in the box and once I found the proper length I'll look for a nice one.
So let's see :-)
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I was wondering what frame and fork weights people have been getting. Thanks for any info.
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Made my payment on the 5th August, and Wing today sent me a picture of the painted frame.
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I was wondering what frame and fork weights people have been getting. Thanks for any info.
Duo painted XL 1254 gram frame and 490 fork (integrated routing)
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Ordered August 8th, size M. Katie sent me pictures of the painted frame:
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Ordered August 8th, size M. Katie sent me pictures of the painted frame:
That's a really good color. Matte olive? Can I know what parts you'll be putting on it?
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That's a really good color. Matte olive? Can I know what parts you'll be putting on it?
I'm guessing a turret-mounted 50 caliber.
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Anyone installing a 1x considering a blanking plate on the front mech mount?
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That's a really good color. Matte olive? Can I know what parts you'll be putting on it?
You got it. I like the look of it with tan sidewalls.
Putting on Ultegra 6870 Di2 from an older cross bike. Ordered Elite ENTs in 45mm for wheels.
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Got it. After a closer look today by removing the bottom bracket guide I saw that the outer cable stops there. I was confused by the liner running through the guide upwards through the hole. Now it's crystal clear :-)
Today I've been fighting with the cable installation for the front derailleur. I guess htey have mostly 1x front or electronic gear in mind; it was a mess to get the cable into the bottom bracket guide. It is simply too tight: when the guide is insterted into the frame there is not enough space to slip the cable w. end cap into it. Slipping it into the guide when it is removed it is nearly impossible to put the guide back into the frame. Iwanted to install a liner to such a end cap like Aesch has posted but no chance. Had to cut and drill (I hate that at a new frame) and now I have the outer cable/end cap more or less clamped between the guide and the frame and a separate piece of liner from the guide up to the derailleur. Don't want to touch this soon again...
Also the gap between fork crown and frame is too tight; when preloading the headset it starts to rub, causing stick/slip. Have put a flat crown race fram another headset plus the FSA crown race; still a very small gap but no rubbing anymore.
Oh goog old times with cables outside and standard headsets!
When the kids are sleeping I move on...
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Made my payment on the 5th August, and Wing today sent me a picture of the painted frame.
nice color! Blue chameleon?
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nice color! Blue chameleon?
Thanks you! Yeap, Blue purple chameleon. I'm boring that way, but I love it.
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Today I've been fighting with the cable installation for the front derailleur. I guess htey have mostly 1x front or electronic gear in mind; it was a mess to get the cable into the bottom bracket guide. It is simply too tight: when the guide is insterted into the frame there is not enough space to slip the cable w. end cap into it. Slipping it into the guide when it is removed it is nearly impossible to put the guide back into the frame. Iwanted to install a liner to such a end cap like Aesch has posted but no chance. Had to cut and drill (I hate that at a new frame) and now I have the outer cable/end cap more or less clamped between the guide and the frame and a separate piece of liner from the guide up to the derailleur. Don't want to touch this soon again...
Also the gap between fork crown and frame is too tight; when preloading the headset it starts to rub, causing stick/slip. Have put a flat crown race fram another headset plus the FSA crown race; still a very small gap but no rubbing anymore.
Oh goog old times with cables outside and standard headsets!
When the kids are sleeping I move on...
Thank you for the detailed description Michi. If it's convenient could you maybe snap some pictures? Particularly of your solution to the bottom bracket guide. Thanks in advance.
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Has anyone else had this problem with the headset race on the fork crown at the bottom of the head tube?
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Search the forum for “micro spacer”. They are frequently needed.
EDIT: sorry, I missed your issue is a the bottom of the head tube. Haven’t seen that before, usually the problem is at the top.
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I was wondering what frame and fork weights people have been getting. Thanks for any info.
My matte black frames in size M were 1050 and 1062g. Cut fork was 463g.
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@Aesch - I've had it with an Ultegra RX dérailleur that the positioning relative to the cassette was off. It was how it was sitting on the hanger. Unlike some of the road dérailleurs, it's quite easy for something to be misaligned when installing.
So. Just checked everything, it is on right, connected straight. Hanger is straight. If I screw in the B screw it works to clear the stays but not necessary with the current 11 28. I guess if I fit a 11 34 or something it will work.
I Checked clearance too, I have >6mm of clearance on both sides of my current tyres. These are 29mm width as measured.
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So. Just checked everything, it is on right, connected straight. Hanger is straight. If I screw in the B screw it works to clear the stays but not necessary with the current 11 28. I guess if I fit a 11 34 or something it will work.
I Checked clearance too, I have >6mm of clearance on both sides of my current tyres. These are 29mm width as measured.
What are your tires labeled? 28mm? That would mean anything up to a 40mm tire would fit! I'm probably going to use 30mm tires.
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Not the OP, but - while 32mm is the manufacturer's spec, there is a perhaps a couple mm more room. The engineering drawing for the fork shows a 40mm radius, and that's what I measure as well. For the frame, I didn't see a similar dimension - I measure 36-37mm (seat stays are at an angle, of course, so also depends how much higher the wider tire sits...).
I don't have anything larger than a 32mm road tire - and that does certainly fit with comfortable clearance.
I wonder if it's possible to squeeze a 700x35 on, if someone has one handy.
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My tyres are labeled 28 on 21 internal width wheel.
I've got a set of gp5000 in 32mm.on a 26 internal rim handy, they measure 34~35 ish. Ill test them ASAP.
40mm won't fit, I think the 35 is max with a slight margin all around.
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35mm fits. A picture is attached.
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Have any of you used the carbonda wheelsets or ican?
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35mm fits.
Nice! Thanks for checking that! I didn't want to spend $100-150 on another set of tires only to find they didn't fit. :)
Sorry, no experience with ICAN or Carbonda wheelsets - I went with Light Bicycle and am pleased.
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Thank you for the detailed description Michi. If it's convenient could you maybe snap some pictures? Particularly of your solution to the bottom bracket guide. Thanks in advance.
Ah sorry, I did not make pictures. I tried to make a scetch; basically the gap between frame an BB guide is REALLY tight, and with installed BB guide it is not possible to really push the cable from above through the downtube. Installation is now finally as shown in the scetch; but to get there was a pain...
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How much did you tighten the BB guide? I've had frames with a similar issue, but it turned out I screwed the guide in too tight. At first glance I thought that the closer I get the guide to the frame, the more room the cables would have, but for some reason I don't yet understand, that was not the case.
I then tightened the BB guide only a tiny bit (hardly anything at all) and just relied on the cables to hold it in place, and everything ran smooth.
This was a different frame though, so this may not apply to the 1056.
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I'm going to be glad I've decided to go with SRAM AXS, I can tell. It's also going to be easier when the brake lines are all I have to get through the bar, stem, headset, and head tube.
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Just received an email my frame shipped.
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Have any of you used the carbonda wheelsets or ican?
I'm running ICAN Aero 55 Disc, and I love them. Weight is 1493g for my wheelset. And I think price-wise they're at the sweet spot.
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I'm going to be glad I've decided to go with SRAM AXS, I can tell. It's also going to be easier when the brake lines are all I have to get through the bar, stem, headset, and head tube.
I'm going rival AXS... I hate dealing with cables. I wish my brakes wireless as well. I run XX1;AXS on my MTB I love it so much.
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I'm going rival AXS... I hate dealing with cables. I wish my brakes wireless as well. I run XX1;AXS on my MTB I love it so much.
I'm going to be glad I've decided to go with SRAM AXS, I can tell. It's also going to be easier when the brake lines are all I have to get through the bar, stem, headset, and head tube.
I will be going the Shimano 105 R7020 path as SRAM distributors are not easy to come by in my region. And Di2 is a little bit out of my budget, and the failures of Ultegra cranks worry me.
Please do update on your builds!
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How much did you tighten the BB guide? I've had frames with a similar issue, but it turned out I screwed the guide in too tight.
...
This was a different frame though, so this may not apply to the 1056.
Different tightening would not change the situation here, I guess... because the guide is tightened from the outside. Well everything is in place now and works; I'm in contact with Wing for some more spares and part of the are two additional BB guides. Usually if I have spares in stock I do not face an issue. So those are my Voodoo dolls ...:-)
Btw. the bike is built up; different stem is ordered for better cable routing. Bottle cages I'll also change once I come across some decent ones...
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I once asked Carbonda to include anti-noise foam tubes with my frame ...
Interesting. Do you have a picture of it ?
Wasn't it possible to put it through the BB or the headtube ?
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Different tightening would not change the situation here, I guess... because the guide is tightened from the outside. Well everything is in place now and works; I'm in contact with Wing for some more spares and part of the are two additional BB guides. Usually if I have spares in stock I do not face an issue. So those are my Voodoo dolls ...:-)
Btw. the bike is built up; different stem is ordered for better cable routing. Bottle cages I'll also change once I come across some decent ones...
Very nice!
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I've begun to keep close track of my build project. The yellow hasn't been ordered. The orange may not ever be ordered.
(http://stylesdeluxe.com/ss/HuaweiSS-2021-08-24-252.png)
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Different tightening would not change the situation here, I guess... because the guide is tightened from the outside. Well everything is in place now and works; I'm in contact with Wing for some more spares and part of the are two additional BB guides. Usually if I have spares in stock I do not face an issue. So those are my Voodoo dolls ...:-)
Btw. the bike is built up; different stem is ordered for better cable routing. Bottle cages I'll also change once I come across some decent ones...
You know, I'm having a hard time recognizing that frame as a Carbonda CFR 1056.
What is this?:
(http://stylesdeluxe.com/ss/HuaweiSS-2021-08-24-253.jpg)
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You know, I'm having a hard time recognizing that frame as a Carbonda CFR 1056.
What is this?:
(http://stylesdeluxe.com/ss/HuaweiSS-2021-08-24-253.jpg)
I asked myself the same question :-) and afterwards also asked Wing. She replied that there are different batches of the CFR1056, and by mistake I received one with this specific "shape". I guess it is a variant intended for an bicycle OEM... Everything else islike shown on the drawings.
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I asked myself the same question :-) and afterwards also asked Wing. She replied that there are different batches of the CFR1056, and by mistake I received one with this specific "shape". I guess it is a variant intended for an bicycle OEM... Everything else islike shown on the drawings.
If I get a frame like that, there will be a problem, especially as I ordered paint. They'll have to replace the frame and if they want the bad one back, they arrange to pay the return shipping, and pick up from my house.
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If I get a frame like that, there will be a problem, especially as I ordered paint. They'll have to replace the frame and if they want the bad one back, they arrange to pay the return shipping, and pick up from my house.
Good luck lol
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Good luck lol
I've already emailed them and asked them not to ship a frame with that "feature".
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Just received my shipment after being given a tracking number on Tuesday. The box looks in good condition and I can't wait to open it once I'm off work.
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Mine gets here monday...
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I asked myself the same question :-) and afterwards also asked Wing. She replied that there are different batches of the CFR1056, and by mistake I received one with this specific "shape". I guess it is a variant intended for an bicycle OEM... Everything else islike shown on the drawings.
That reminds me of the first-gen FutureShock frames from Specialized. See for example https://www.specialized.com/be/en/roubaix-expert/p/115446?color=214966-115446
Although yours looks more "pointy" (like a fin) in that picture.
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Have any of you used the carbonda wheelsets or ican?
Also very interested to learn about anyone's experience with Carbonda wheels!
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I'm in love with the finish! The frame was wrapped with bubble wrap and foam rolls with plastic caps over protrusions.
Definitely glad I went with a Carbonda over name brands (which in my country do not even have frames above 54cm).
This is a 56cm frame with 110*420 integrated handlebar. I highly recommend FSA headset for the integrated version. Going for Shimano 105 R7020 and Elite-Wheels BWT. Will update with better photos in the near future.
(https://i.imgur.com/mUVCWPhl.jpg)
Closeup of the BSA86 BB
(https://i.imgur.com/6zo176ul.jpg)
Peering down the headtube. I like the look of EPS molding. The bit coming off near the green QC sticker, I plan to use some clear nail polish.
(https://i.imgur.com/8lx7smal.jpg)
Out of focus shot of the frame in real lighting conditions.
(https://i.imgur.com/S4Hs41Hl.jpg)
Weight of frame+seatpost (1323g)
(https://i.imgur.com/r0uszmUl.jpg)
Weight of uncut fork (483g)
(https://i.imgur.com/1vz1AQhl.jpg)
Weight of integrated handlebars (417g)
(https://i.imgur.com/4nAcofql.jpg)
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Lovely bike! Congrats. 8)
Just wanted to let you know that imgur has a resize feature for the pictures. Makes it much easier to present them as the forum doesnt resize automatically.
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What is the width of the chainstays at the rear flat mount points? I may have to give this frame a try too.
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That reminds me of the first-gen FutureShock frames from Specialized. See for example https://www.specialized.com/be/en/roubaix-expert/p/115446?color=214966-115446
Although yours looks more "pointy" (like a fin) in that picture.
Could be that the OEM has a specific cover for the frame... for me it is no issue. I get a bag of spares for free as compensation; and the the shape does not really disturb.
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I'm in love with the finish! The frame was wrapped with bubble wrap and foam rolls with plastic caps over protrusions.
Definitely glad I went with a Carbonda over name brands (which in my country do not even have frames above 54cm).
This is a 56cm frame with 110*420 integrated handlebar. I highly recommend FSA headset for the integrated version. Going for Shimano 105 R7020 and Elite-Wheels BWT. Will update with better photos in the near future.
Lovely frame.
Can you say more about how the Carbonda headset for the integrated bar is inferior to FSA's? I'm buying FAS's stem and have no objection to buying their headset. I could wait till after the frame with headset arrives to decide about ordering the FSA headset, but I'm very curious.
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I'm in love with the finish! The frame was wrapped with bubble wrap and foam rolls with plastic caps over protrusions.
Nice! How heavy is the seatpost? Interested in the net frame weight
Definitely glad I went with a Carbonda over name brands (which in my country do not even have frames above 54cm).
This is a 56cm frame with 110*420 integrated handlebar. I highly recommend FSA headset for the integrated version. Going for Shimano 105 R7020 and Elite-Wheels BWT. Will update with better photos in the near future.
(https://i.imgur.com/mUVCWPhl.jpg)
Closeup of the BSA86 BB
(https://i.imgur.com/6zo176ul.jpg)
Peering down the headtube. I like the look of EPS molding. The bit coming off near the green QC sticker, I plan to use some clear nail polish.
(https://i.imgur.com/8lx7smal.jpg)
Out of focus shot of the frame in real lighting conditions.
(https://i.imgur.com/S4Hs41Hl.jpg)
Weight of frame+seatpost (1323g)
(https://i.imgur.com/r0uszmUl.jpg)
Weight of uncut fork (483g)
(https://i.imgur.com/1vz1AQhl.jpg)
Weight of integrated handlebars (417g)
(https://i.imgur.com/4nAcofql.jpg)
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What is the width of the chainstays at the rear flat mount points? I may have to give this frame a try too.
Is this where you mean? I can take a more accurate measurement tomorrow if this is not sufficient.
(https://i.imgur.com/GXaglEhl.png)
Lovely frame.
Can you say more about how the Carbonda headset for the integrated bar is inferior to FSA's? I'm buying FAS's stem and have no objection to buying their headset. I could wait till after the frame with headset arrives to decide about ordering the FSA headset, but I'm very curious.
In order to have the expander flush with the top of the handlebar, you would need to have an offset of about 3mm due to the thickness of the part that sits on top of the fork and stops the expander from dropping straight in. In the image below, the top half is the FSA ACR expander, and the bottom half is the one Carbonda ships with the bike, which you can find on aliexpress. Both headsets were tightened to a semi-snug fit (expanded, but still able to rotate freely) so show where they would approximately sit within the steerer tube.
The FSA ACR expander covers a good region of where the stem bolts are. The Carbonda one barely covers half of the top bolt. Note that the expander cannot sit any higher. Although you can have the stem sit slightly lower, the length of the knurled region that pushes against the steerer tube is just about enough to cover the space between the two bolts and would need some fiddling to get right.
Also the knurling on the FSA ACR expander definitely feels like it has much more grip. When tightening both to a semi snug fit, I had a harder time extracting the FSA ACR expander.
The bearings I got from FSA also ran smoother. As for spacers, FSA spacers were out of stock, but I know they can be put together without removing any cables as they join at the space where the cables route (like a padlock), whereas the Carbonda ones join together at the gap for the steerer tube, with the gap for cables fixed.
I am aware that carbon tubes are strong when there are equal directional forces and that the Carbonda/AliExpress headset is sufficient for 99% use case, but I believe that the additional expense for a FSA headset is justified by having peace of mind.
Also, you cannot use the routing on the FSA ACR expander that was intended for the front brakes as it seems that Carbonda has routed the front brake hose to have a single entry single exit channel (from the flat mounts to a couple of inches above the crown race). If I try to push a routing cable from the top of the steerer tube, I couldn't get it to exit at the fork disc brake exit hole, though this could be ineptitude on my part. This doesn't bother me much as I'm okay with using the designed method of all four cables going down the same headset gap, but may be an annoyance to some.
In any case, Carbonda are pretty happy to accommodate to small customisations, and if someone were to want to definitely use the FSA ACR style routing, you could probably request for no channeling on the front brake hose.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y47KxpXl.png)
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In order to have the expander flush with the top of the handlebar, you would need to have an offset of about 3mm due to the thickness of the part that sits on top of the fork and stops the expander from dropping straight in. In the image below, the top half is the FSA ACR expander, and the bottom half is the one Carbonda ships with the bike, which you can find on aliexpress. Both headsets were tightened to a semi-snug fit (expanded, but still able to rotate freely) so show where they would approximately sit within the steerer tube.
The FSA ACR expander covers a good region of where the stem bolts are. The Carbonda one barely covers half of the top bolt. Note that the expander cannot sit any higher. Although you can have the stem sit slightly lower, the length of the knurled region that pushes against the steerer tube is just about enough to cover the space between the two bolts and would need some fiddling to get right.
Also the knurling on the FSA ACR expander definitely feels like it has much more grip. When tightening both to a semi snug fit, I had a harder time extracting the FSA ACR expander.
The bearings I got from FSA also ran smoother. As for spacers, FSA spacers were out of stock, but I know they can be put together without removing any cables as they join at the space where the cables route (like a padlock), whereas the Carbonda ones join together at the gap for the steerer tube, with the gap for cables fixed.
I am aware that carbon tubes are strong when there are equal directional forces and that the Carbonda/AliExpress headset is sufficient for 99% use case, but I believe that the additional expense for a FSA headset is justified by having peace of mind.
Also, you cannot use the routing on the FSA ACR expander that was intended for the front brakes as it seems that Carbonda has routed the front brake hose to have a single entry single exit channel (from the flat mounts to a couple of inches above the crown race). If I try to push a routing cable from the top of the steerer tube, I couldn't get it to exit at the fork disc brake exit hole, though this could be ineptitude on my part. This doesn't bother me much as I'm okay with using the designed method of all four cables going down the same headset gap, but may be an annoyance to some.
In any case, Carbonda are pretty happy to accommodate to small customisations, and if someone were to want to definitely use the FSA ACR style routing, you could probably request for no channeling on the front brake hose.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y47KxpXl.png)
This is a GREAT reply. Thank you. I'm definitely going to spend the $42 FSA wants for their headset.
I have a couple of followup questions:
Did your FSA headset come with *no* spacers, or just no *extra* spacers?
If I understand correctly, FSA expects the front brake hose to run through the expander, down through the steerer and then exit the fork blade above the front brake flat mount. Carbonda expects the front brake hose to run down in front of the steerer, into the hole on the front side of the steerer, then out the hole above the front brake flat mount.
If I have that right, and since I'm planning to use FSA's headset and stem, not their integrated handlebar/stem, do you see any reason that I can't route both brake hoses (there will be no derailleur cables or wires) where FSA shows the rear brake hose (red) in this illustration, and having the front brake hose run into and out of the two holes in the fork, as Carbonda intends?
(https://cdn-0.gravelcyclist.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/FSA-ACR2019-1.jpg)
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Definitely room for two brake cables down the spacers - no need to send any through the expansion/compression plug. That's how I routed mine.
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The FSA ACR ships with *no* spacers. They have to be purchased seperately. The headset cover that ships with the headset is only compatible with their spacers, which are all only compatible with stems and bars compatible with the FSA ACR system. No worries though, the headset and lock ring will work perfectly well with any headset cover.
Just to clarify your stem height. My experience has been that the stem cannot be cut so that the top of the expander plug is flush with the bottom of the top cover. The entire system needs space above the expander plug for the stem to be compressed by the top cover bolt to load the headset.
Othey than that, I agree with fattyrice. Everything about the FSA ACR just works more reliably than the generic headset. Yoy may still have to be ready to make adjustments to the headset stack height, but that's trivial and is probably goibg to be true for any headset you choose to usr.
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I don't think I'll be ordering the fsa head set. But I'm ordering the deda 70mm expander bunge. Thanks for the heads up
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You can get the FSA longer expander for about $15. I'll either order that, or the whole headset that includes the expander. Right now the expanders are easy to find. The headsets are harder to find, and the spacers simply can't be found. That's a drag.
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Definitely room for two brake cables down the spacers - no need to send any through the expansion/compression plug. That's how I routed mine.
Excellent! Thanks.
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Just to clarify your stem height. My experience has been that the stem cannot be cut so that the top of the expander plug is flush with the bottom of the top cover. The entire system needs space above the expander plug for the stem to be compressed by the top cover bolt to load the headset.
This is also my understanding.
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Now I'm wondering if the FSA ACR stem will work with the Carbonda integrated headset and spacers. I have those coming with the frame and if the stem will work with the Carbonda spacers, I may choose to use them.
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Now I'm wondering if the FSA ACR stem will work with the Carbonda integrated headset and spacers. I have those coming with the frame and if the stem will work with the Carbonda spacers, I may choose to use them.
Here's the FSA ACR headset cover. I'm assuming any compatible stem is gonna have the matching holes to help lock the stem in place. The second picture is the bottom of the cover. The lock ring definitely has the holes, but it works fine with a generic headset cover without the pins.
If your headset cover has pins that dont match the ACR cover's pins. It might be problematic.
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Thanks for that.
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hey everyone, any idea as to what the max tyre clearance with 650b would be like? I've seen Bonspiero's pic with the 35mms installed, looks like with a 650b it could be in the range of 40++ mm I'm guessing. Has anyone tried?
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It arrived. I'm stoked on the color it looks way better than the photos they sent me after it was painted. I was worried when I got the photos but happy with it in person. I photo shopped what I plan to do for logos I designed. I only took a non drive side photo so I flipped the frame in the photoshop so don't mind it being wrong haha I'm aware.
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Looks really cool!
As an update: the grx rear derailleur fits easily with the clutch On when paired with an 11-32 cassette. It was indeed the B screw.
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It arrived. I'm stoked on the color it looks way better than the photos they sent me after it was painted. I was worried when I got the photos but happy with it in person. I photo shopped what I plan to do for logos I designed. I only took a non drive side photo so I flipped the frame in the photoshop so don't mind it being wrong haha I'm aware.
I'm very envious! I ordered one day after you, and I haven't received a paint photo, a shipping date, etc.
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Mine is out for delivery today. Will update with photos later.
Forgot to ask for headset spacers. Guess I'll pick those up locally.
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I'm very envious! I ordered one day after you, and I haven't received a paint photo, a shipping date, etc.
Threaten to cancel your order saying you found a different bike locally. That's what I did and then I was told my frame was painted and I couldn't cancel.
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Has anyone tried fitting a supercompact 2x crankset on this frameset? For example GRX 600 46/30, SRAM AXS 46/33, or SRAM AXS Wide 43/30.
I'm wondering if the front derailleur can be mounted low enough for these cranksets.
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Mine is out for delivery today. Will update with photos later.
@failstone: What RAL color number is that?
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I don't think my frame is taking too long, even if other people have had theirs a bit faster. I'm just eager to get it.
I received photos of my finished paint last night! Delivery will be scheduled.
The third photo was to show me that I wasn't getting a frame with the "fin".
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@failstone: What RAL color number is that?
I just asked for olive green and they sent an example frame colour which I liked. I can ask if you'd like.
Looks great in person, really happy with it.
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I'm so glad I don't have to look at RAL colors any more haha.
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The frame guide from Carbonda (top) and from the dolan tuono(bottom) . Interesting difference. (the bottom one even has an imprint "1056").
So there must be more differences, other then the 'fin'. Anyone know of brands using the frame?
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What size rotors is the 1056 set up for? Thanks
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What size rotors is the 1056 set up for? Thanks
The rear flat mount fits for 140mm rotors w/o adapter; adapters for 160mm are available. For the fork you need an adapter anyway: I'm only aware of those which can be flipped to suit 140 and 160 mm rotors. 180mm rotors most likely won't fit due to lack of clearance (at least that's my impression lookimg at both front and rear); not sure whether adapters exist at all.
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The frame guide from Carbonda (top) and from the dolan tuono(bottom) . Interesting difference. (the bottom one even has an imprint "1056").
So there must be more differences, other then the 'fin'. Anyone know of brands using the frame?
That's interesting. The guide I received with my 1056 rather looked like the one on the bottom. There was a small fin on the rear side but only a few mm long and w/o cable. In combination with the fitting issues I'm wondering whether I received the correct one... anyway now it is installed and working. I will receive a bag with some more spares and am now curious how the two BB guides wll look like.
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That's interesting. The guide I received with my 1056 rather looked like the one on the bottom. There was a small fin on the rear side but only a few mm long and w/o cable. In combination with the fitting issues I'm wondering whether I received the correct one... anyway now it is installed and working. I will receive a bag with some more spares and am now curious how the two BB guides wll look like.
Yes, I got a similar one to the description you give. The small protruding part broke when installing. So that Is a third configuration. It looks like the longer extended type cut short.
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What size rotors is the 1056 set up for? Thanks
I thought this was more of a question of calipers than bike frame? I used an ultegra caliper set that was configured for 160 front and 140 rear - and I needed a spacer to use the rear 140 caliper with a 160 rotor. Similarly, I used SRAM calipers that were designed for 160 rotors and they worked without a spacer.
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Yes, however especially with forks you need to watch out. Road bikes usually are not designed for 180mm calipers, hence the forks can not handle the associated extra forces they generate.
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The mounting points on a road bike fork and chainstay are standardized. If your caliper is made for a 140mm rotor, your caliper needs an adapter to accommodate a 160mm rotor, not your frame.
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The mounting points on a road bike fork and chainstay are standardized. If your caliper is made for a 140mm rotor, your caliper needs an adapter to accommodate a 160mm rotor, not your frame.
Again what learned... it was clear to me that the fork and frame mounts are standardized. But I was not aware that there are differences in the calipers. I thought they are all designed to match 140mm rotors and need adapters for different sizes. So another degree of freedom to take care of ;-)
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I've received my tracking number.
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hey everyone, any idea as to what the max tyre clearance with 650b would be like? I've seen Bonspiero's pic with the 35mms installed, looks like with a 650b it could be in the range of 40++ mm I'm guessing. Has anyone tried?
I thought i'd bump this question. I'm curious about this as well. I'm wondering if a 650bx42 would fit. I'm trying to find a set of 650b's so I can test but they aren't so cheap and I havent sourced any used ones locally. Has anyone tried?
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Has anyone built this up without the integrated handle bar?
Looking at a bike that would still be a solid racer, not a endurance type geometry. Can anyone chime in?
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Currently down with covid so haven't been building my bike up as much as I would like. Just finished routing the cables in the integrated handlebars and frame.
Agree with Michi on the FD guide. It was a huge pain in the ass to properly cable as the OT-SP41 outer housing was not bending enough to comfortably route into the guide. The guide also wont go in if there is even a little bit of the housing peeking through. I chose to instead file a little off the top of the guide just so it goes in easier with some of the outer housing peeking out. Was sorely tempted to go eTAP out of frustration!
Rear Thru-Axle was also very difficult to remove and install once about 80% in. When the RD hanger is off the bike, it goes in easily, so no cross-threading there. Rather seems to be an alignment issue. Workaround was to loosen the hanger slightly, screw in the thru axle, and then retighten the hanger. Maybe some resin or paintwork underneath the hanger but nothing I can identify by naked eye. Any suggestions? Also, can I confirm if the provided thru-axle dimensions are as follows?
Front: 120mm M12*P1.5*L14
Rear: 173mm M12*P1.5*L15
Thanks in advance.
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Has anyone built this up without the integrated handle bar?
Looking at a bike that would still be a solid racer, not a endurance type geometry. Can anyone chime in?
I'm building mine up without the integrated handle bars.
Someone also built there's up without the integrated. It was posted earlier in this thread. https://www.pedalroom.com/bike/carbonda-fm1056-45373
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I've bought Robert axle project axles
172mm and 120mm
Perfect fit.
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I've bought Robert axle project axles
172mm and 120mm
Perfect fit.
What thread pitch?
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Mine were 1.5.
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Thread Pitch: 1.5 mm
Axle Length: 172 mm
Use: spare axle (rear 12 x 148 mm)
Manufacturer Part Number: LIG604
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So, after the first few rides and tinkering a bit with setup, brakes etc I'm Really happy with the bike. It rides really well, handles nicely and predictably and is comfy for long rides (3h +).
In direct comparison with my other bike it takes slightly more effort to keep up higher pace. I wonder if I'd notice if I would not have been able to ride the bikes back-to-back.
It also "feels" slightly slower generally but I think that's due to the different tyres, where I ride this bike on vittoria corsa controls at 29mm wam (5 bar ~70 psi). The other bike is rim brake and I use pirelli race 27mm wam (5.4 bar, ~80 psi) . Power wise it's not noticeably different at anything other then the above mentioned higher pace. Maybe the extra 0.5kg also matters slightly.
The build is a mix of GRX and Ultegra components, due to availability and cost as well as preference for hood shape, ergo wave braking and (now it finally functions) the clutch on the rear derailleur for the "light gravel" round I intend to ride too.
I routed the shifter cables outside to prevent shifting issues (it shifts better then my other mech shifting bike where everything runs internally).
Main components:
1056 frame (58) and 1036 handlebar (11x42cm).
Grx 810 shifters, hydro brakes and rear derailleur.
Ultegra 50-34 crank175mm, 11-32 cassette, Rd8000 front derailleur and hg701 chain.
Ultegra pedals.
Farsports Feder 45mm, 28mm outside 21 inside on carbon ti hub, brass nipples and cx sprint drive side spokes (unbelievably light combination), vittoria corsa control 28mm, latex tube.
Xtr rotors 160mm front and rear
Small parts:
Sq labs active 612 14cm
Close the gap garmin mount + bell
ZTTO handlebar tape (very much like lizardskin, recommended!)
Tacx bottle holders
Bontrager flare light
Total weight 8.3kg
Issues while building :
The front cable guide :o, with the new guides in the house I'll replace it with a proper one as soon as I feel like swapping the front derailleur cable.
The rear axle drive side "holder" was tight. Replaced it with one of the spares and problem solved.
The lower screw of the front brake caliper is quite tight, I guess some resin left over, it works and holds well however it was not super easy to get the caliper in perfect position.
And I forgot to add cable foam on the rear hydro brake cable :-\ brakes are super tight now so I don't feel undoing "just because".
Left to do:
Find rubber grommet for the hydro hose entry point on the front left, which I don't use. Anyone know a fitting one?
Decide whether I want to go down another 5mm or keep it like this.
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Use: spare axle (rear 12 x 148 mm)
Thanks, guys.
I don't know what the above means. Is your rear axle 148 or 172?
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Thanks, guys.
I don't know what the above means. Is your rear axle 148 or 172?
Axle 172mm
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I guess I don't need to know what "Use: spare axle (rear 12 x 148 mm)" means. :)
My frame is out for delivery as I type this.
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I guess I don't need to know what "Use: spare axle (rear 12 x 148 mm)" means. :)
My frame is out for delivery as I type this.
It's a copy paste from the shop, bike components, website.
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My frame arrived and I have no complaints after an initial inspection. The only error They made was sending me plain round headset spacers instead of the proper spacers for the integrated headset. I wonder if they'll correct the error. This could just push me to buy the FSA ACR headset and spacers.
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Nice, I would suggest to get the fsa headset and spacers. The bearings are nicer and the spacers fit better too.
And hopefully, they'll be available sooner too 8)
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Yeah, I should go ahead and buy the headset and keep checking on the spacers. I'll be happier in the long run.
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Do the FSA and carbonda spacers play nice together?
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If I had Carbonda spacers, I could tell you...when FSA spacers exist again.
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Do the FSA and carbonda spacers play nice together?
They do fit together, but the seams run in different places. So you could assemble them a bit like Legos. :)
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I thought i'd bump this question. I'm curious about this as well. I'm wondering if a 650bx42 would fit. I'm trying to find a set of 650b's so I can test but they aren't so cheap and I havent sourced any used ones locally. Has anyone tried?
If anyone else was curious like I was 650b max will be like 40.
I lucked out and grabbed a 650b off craigslist for 50 bucks today. I only had a tube and 2.1 tire. So I decided the tube should give me an idea. I have a set of ReneHerse pumpkin ridge endurance casing on order so once those arrive I'm hoping they fit. Cause all reviews say they run small. And then if they fit I'll order some nicer 650b's. I live in dry weather so I think it will work for me in our dust but if you run mud I would stick to 700c
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Photos wouldn't post in my previous post
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Hello, I am thinking of ordering this frame (Carbonda 1056) to replace a crashed Vitus Venon CRI.
I want to recover their parts (Shimano 105 R7000 groupset) and fit in the new frame.
Any advice or suggestions before ordering?
One question, I have shimano RS770 wheels with 160 diameter rotors. Can anyone confirm me that 160 rotors are suitable for back axle?
Thanks in advance
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Hi, yes 160mm fits with adapter.
Advice: read the whole topic and note all the issues, remarks, tips in there. If you build yourself it is useful to have, if you'll ask a shop it might be useful for them.
If you have mechanical brakes the ztto hydro-mech brakes are ok, the juin tech apparently are really good(no experience myself). Do use compressionless housing, and consider external routing because they are hard to route internal.
Some tips:
Decide if you want internal routing or external to figure out which fork.
Do you want it painted? Go check what you like and pantone colours.
Headset is choice between Carbonda or FSA. The latter is slightly nicer, especially the expander works better.
Thru axles from Carbonda are OK (they used to be a bit soft, the newer ones are much better), there are better options on the market at a cost (120usd vs 25 usd for a set of fr+re).
Ask for/order extra spare parts. Specifically seat tube clamp and bottom frame guide for front derailleur cable.
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Disk brake compatibility has nothing to do with a bike's frame. You either have brake calipers made for 160mm rotors, or you'll need an adapter for the caliper to use a 160mm rotor. The mount points on the frame are exactly the same for calipers designed for 160mm rotors and for calipers designed for 140mm rotors. An adapter simply tilts the caliper, creating 10mm more space for the larger rotor's radius. If you have calipers for 160mm rotors and 160mm rotors, in almost all cases, you'll be fine.
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Hi, yes 160mm fits with adapter.
You probably don't need an adapter. (see my post above)
Do you want it painted? Go check what you like and pantone colours.
RAL colors, not Pantone. https://www.ralcolor.com/
Headset is choice between Carbonda or FSA. The latter is slightly nicer, especially the expander works better.
Carbonda can provide you with a headset that's a kind of copy of an FSA ACR headset, not a real FSA headset. I recommend a real FSA if you can budget for one from an outside vendor.
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fitting a shimano caliper does require the supplied mount/adapter, that's the reason the caliper comes with one (the so called 'Flat-Mount adapter 140mm/160mm'). You can turn it to fit 140 or 160mm.
When I ordered, pantone colour was the colour system to choose from (explicitly not RAL) or from their own colour palette.
This might have changed to be both but to say 'RAL colors, not Pantone. https://www.ralcolor.com/' is not correct. If they offer RAL now it's easier for sure. Any one of the sales people will be able to tell you what the latest options are.
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Oh and completely agree to go for FSA headset if budget allows.
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My 1056 is starting to come together. I also added a MTB chainstay protector I had laying around. This is 650b with 42c rene herse pumpkin ridge tires they measure to 40mm (I have about 2.5-3mm on each side of the tire of clearance) on a 21mm internal wide rim. I'm planning to run the 650b for gravel and 32s or 35s on 700 for mostly tarmac rides probably either gravel king slicks or rene herse bon jon or stampede pass. I ended up snagging a deal on some DT swiss carbon rims ERC1400 in front and HGC1400 in rear instead of going china direct.
Also if ordering the 1056 ask for extra headset spacers the fact they only provide 2 is so dumb. Luckily I found some FSA ones at a shop currently enroute to me.
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fitting a shimano caliper does require the supplied mount/adapter, that's the reason the caliper comes with one (the so called 'Flat-Mount adapter 140mm/160mm'). You can turn it to fit 140 or 160mm.
When I ordered, pantone colour was the colour system to choose from (explicitly not RAL) or from their own colour palette.
This might have changed to be both but to say 'RAL colors, not Pantone. https://www.ralcolor.com/' is not correct. If they offer RAL now it's easier for sure. Any one of the sales people will be able to tell you what the latest options are.
I stand corrected with regard to Shimano calipers. Thanks for educating me!
Funny about the colors. I was pointed specifically to RAL colors. The link I posted is where Carbonda sent me.
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My 1056 is starting to come together. I also added a MTB chainstay protector I had laying around. This is 650b with 42c rene herse pumpkin ridge tires they measure to 40mm (I have about 2.5-3mm on each side of the tire of clearance) on a 21mm internal wide rim. I'm planning to run the 650b for gravel and 32s or 35s on 700 for mostly tarmac rides probably either gravel king slicks or rene herse bon jon or stampede pass. I ended up snagging a deal on some DT swiss carbon rims ERC1400 in front and HGC1400 in rear instead of going china direct.
Also if ordering the 1056 ask for extra headset spacers the fact they only provide 2 is so dumb. Luckily I found some FSA ones at a shop currently enroute to me.
Looking good!
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I stand corrected with regard to Shimano calipers. Thanks for educating me!
Funny about the colors. I was pointed specifically to RAL colors. The link I posted is where Carbonda sent me.
That's nice, shows they've moved on (or changed painting shop). RAL much easier. I've been quite impressed with the quality, both my gravel bike and racing bike have turned out really nice. Those are chameleon light blue and a chrome-plating effect dark blue so not the easiest.
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For those of you that have installed internal brake hoses, did the rear brake hose go from the downtube to the chaistay through the tunnel molded into the lower portion of the bottom bracket shell, or did it go over the top of the bottom bracket?
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For those of you that have installed internal brake hoses, did the rear brake hose go from the downtube to the chaistay through the tunnel molded into the lower portion of the bottom bracket shell, or did it go over the top of the bottom bracket?
If you use the pre-installed tube it goes over the BB in the frame. I think thats a more natural line than going under the BB where the cable for the rear derailleur goes.
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Thanks! I'd already pulled the tube and didn't remember where it ran.
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Fair, yeah I would run it over the BB.
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My extra FSA spacers showed up. Now its a bit too stacked gonna have to cut the steerer a bit. But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good. The FSA are nice cause you cant see the area they connect from the side they look much cleaner on the bike.
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My extra FSA spacers showed up. Now its a bit too stacked gonna have to cut the steerer a bit. But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good. The FSA are nice cause you cant see the area they connect from the side they look much cleaner on the bike.
The negative slop of the handlebar is insane !
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My extra FSA spacers showed up. Now its a bit too stacked gonna have to cut the steerer a bit. But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good. The FSA are nice cause you cant see the area they connect from the side they look much cleaner on the bike.
45mm of spacers! That's a lot. I'm starting with 25mm, but I don't have that negative slope. I have -6 degrees.
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I think it's just the camera angle that makes the slope look crazy haha. In the stand the bike tilts forward.
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I just found two spring washers loose in my bike box I assume they go to the headset? My headset was in pieces in the box when my frame arrived. Does anyone know where these spring washer go? I haven't ridden my bike yet so no harm done.
Thanks
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I just found two spring washers loose in my bike box I assume they go to the headset? My headset was in pieces in the box when my frame arrived. Does anyone know where these spring washer go? I haven't ridden my bike yet so no harm done.
Thanks
I got 'em too. I have no idea what they're for.
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...But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good...
It looks great indeed! I'm thinking about ditching my Canyon Ultimate for this one.
One question. Are the cables passing through the headset bearings, or next to it ?
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There's no way to get cables and hoses through the head tube other than inside the bearings.
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I just found two spring washers loose in my bike box I assume they go to the headset? My headset was in pieces in the box when my frame arrived. Does anyone know where these spring washer go? I haven't ridden my bike yet so no harm done.
Thanks
I was trying to figure that out last night too. Best I can tell is they can be used as spacers between the compression ring above the top headset bearing and the dust cap to stop it from rubbing on the frame
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I was trying to figure that out last night too. Best I can tell is they can be used as spacers between the compression ring above the top headset bearing and the dust cap to stop it from rubbing on the frame
You know, that might be exactly right. Mine seems to be rubbing just slightly. I'm going to try one or both spring washers in that spot. Thanks for this.
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My extra FSA spacers showed up. Now its a bit too stacked gonna have to cut the steerer a bit. But the carbonda and FSA spacers play nice together so thats good. The FSA are nice cause you cant see the area they connect from the side they look much cleaner on the bike.
Looks great. Is that the carbonda bar stem?
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Yep
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I was trying to figure that out last night too. Best I can tell is they can be used as spacers between the compression ring above the top headset bearing and the dust cap to stop it from rubbing on the frame
This may still be what they're for, but they're not compatible with the FSA headset I'm using. They interfere with the pins between the dustcap and ring that goes into the top bearing. I haven't checked to see if they interfere with Carbonda's internal route headset.
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I'm going rival AXS... I hate dealing with cables. I wish my brakes wireless as well. I run XX1;AXS on my MTB I love it so much.
Have you managed to find any store that have SRAM etap Rival in stock?
Best I have found is a store who says they will be able to send in 2-3months.
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Got mine done last night and took it for a century today. Way more comfortable than my older bike that maxed out at 25s.
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Got mine done last night and took it for a century today. Way more comfortable than my older bike that maxed out at 25s.
Beautiful bike. And an inaugural century! That's quite a shakedown cruise. I guess you know whether or not everything is perfect.
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Have you managed to find any store that have SRAM etap Rival in stock?
Best I have found is a store who says they will be able to send in 2-3months.
Yep, Mine have been sitting on my shelf for a couple months waiting to be built up.
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I won't see SRAM Force before Christmas.
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Yep, Mine have been sitting on my shelf for a couple months waiting to be built up.
I am a bit jealous of you :)
Which store did you find them in, so I can check if there are any left?
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Is this carbonda Cfr 1056 similar to a branded frame ?
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Is this carbonda Cfr 1056 similar to a branded frame ?
I think it is the same frame as the Dolan Tuono.
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I am a bit jealous of you :)
Which store did you find them in, so I can check if there are any left?
I got them from incycle looks like they are out now.
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My mechanic just called to say my brakes were done she said it was a challenge haha. I think she hates me now. Don't think she knew what she was getting herself into. So close to riding this beauty new wheels hopefully show up tomorrow.
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I think it is the same frame as the Dolan Tuono.
Wow, that is REALLY similar. My 1056 doesn't have that arc in the chainstays.
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/tuono-disc-carbon-road-frameset/
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Just got my bike back from the mechanic. She was impressed with the cost and look of the 1056 to say the least. My new enve wheels will be here in a couple hours and my dt swiss wheels will be here tomorrow. Then I have to wrap the bars and then will be road ready.
Don't mind my reverse mullet situation haha it was the only combo I had where I could have my brakes be working since the front 700 is setup for 15mm.
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Wow, that is REALLY similar. My 1056 doesn't have that arc in the chainstays.
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/tuono-disc-carbon-road-frameset/
Must be the angle of the photo. It is the exact same frameset. I've got spare parts from dolan that actually have a stamp with "1056" inside.
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Must be the angle of the photo. It is the exact same frameset. I've got spare parts from dolan that actually have a stamp with "1056" inside.
I wondered about the angle.
So the only difference would appear to be that Dolan is still using a pressfit bottom bracket and Carbonda has moved on to BB86. I'll speculate that Dolan either will do, or has done and hasn't updated the photos on their site.
Nice to know one can get 1056 spares from another source.
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I decided to scrap the 27.5s it was just too tight. The 37mm measured 700c fit fine. I put Rene Herse bon jon pass 35c in the rear on internal 24mm wheel they measure 37mm and stelicom pass 38c on the front measure to 37mm on an internal 19mm wheel.
So happy with how this carbonda turned out
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Looks fantastic! 8) Congrats on the build.
Do you think you could take some up-close pictures of the clearance with the new tires?
Also, how does it ride? ;D
And what about that chainstay protector. Where did you get it from?
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Thanks. I finally got out on a ride working full time and two kids makes it difficult to get out. It rides pretty good I don't have a ton to compare it to. On gravel it's def a bit bumpier than my rondo ruut I had previous with 650b x 2.2 tires. But on road it feels really good compared to the rondo. I only did a 12 mile ride and my seatpost came loose by the end so I need to put some more carbon paste I guess. But over happy with it. Also it's a chain stay for forbidden druid MTB
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Does anybody know if I can use their cockpit with external routing instead of internal?
http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/handlebar/109.html
Do I need different headset or anything from aftermarket?
Thanks
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Nice wheather yesterday here in greater Stuttgart area, so i took the chance to... no, not ride:-( but to take some pics of the (95%) final state of my 1056. I changed the stem several times; now with a Rose Race Attack I'm pretty satisfied as it matches well the frame tube shapes (flat at the top) and the matte color. Setup is "full mechanical" incl. brakes (TRP Spyre SLC). With 160mm front and 140mm rear the performance is fine for a road bike; a bit more would alway be nice (heard of magical "ceramic" pads from the far east ;-)). I tried to run the cables as smooth as possible. With the nice polished parts at the brake calipers and the crank brothers pedals I tried some aluminium bottle cages; from my point of view it matches quite well. Anyway with bottles in them you won't really recognize them anymore... Some plotted decals to be done including giving the baby a name. I think of "1a n3ra" (read: la nera") and make some fun out of the "13" raplcing "lE". Main thing is: color or black reflective? And if color: which? A well known member of this forum is supporting me strongly, but I'm still undecided...
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I love these builds. Mine is about 95%:
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Does anybody know if I can use their cockpit with external routing instead of internal?
http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/handlebar/109.html
Do I need different headset or anything from aftermarket?
Thanks
You can certainly choose not to feed cables through the handlebars - just tape them to the bars. Or I suppose you could feed them into the holes marked 16.2*12 and out the holes marked 16*8.5.
Then feed the cables into the holes in either side or top of the frame. No changes to headset or anything aftermarket required.
I've built two of these - one with a flat handlebar & necessarily external cable routing - and one with Carbonda's handlebar and internal cable routing. No regrets with either.
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I love these builds. Mine is about 95%:
What is the color code of this beautiful red?
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What is the color code of this beautiful red?
RAL 3028
https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-3028-pure-red
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Hi guys,
I bought this frame and recieved it last week. Everything is nice as expected but I think they send me the wrong seatpost wedge or they forgot to mill the frame to size in order for the wedge to fit. How wide is the distance for the wedge on your frames? I send a message to wing but no reply yet.
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That looks like the wrong clamp. :(
My seatpost clamps were just under 16mm.
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They realized their mistakes and will send me the correct one as soon as possible :D Thanks for checking @cme.
Hope to update my build once completed here in the forum. 8)
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Did anybody use their aero handlebar CHB1036 and guide through 4 lines? Is it easy/doable?
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RAL 3028
https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ral-classic/ral-3028-pure-red
Thanks.
Is this a 56 or 58 frame?
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I love these builds. Mine is about 95%:
Nice looking bike. Which stem did you use?
I'm planning to order one frame in the next (few) week(s). I'm looking for a stem with internal cable routing, 80mm long, +6 or 0 degree stem. Any tips?
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Did anybody use their aero handlebar CHB1036 and guide through 4 lines? Is it easy/doable?
I didn't end up building this way, but it's possible to route 2 cables through each set of holes on the handlebar and 4 cables through the headset spacers.
Nice looking bike. Which stem did you use?
I'm planning to order one frame in the next (few) week(s). I'm looking for a stem with internal cable routing, 80mm long, +6 or 0 degree stem. Any tips?
Not the OP, but the handlebar was designed to be compatible with the ACR system by FSA and Vision. That particular stem appears to be a SMR version from Vision - https://shop.visiontechusa.com/en/stems/road-gravel/vision-stem-ns-smr.
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Thanks.
Is this a 56 or 58 frame?
It's a medium.
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Nice looking bike. Which stem did you use?
I'm planning to order one frame in the next (few) week(s). I'm looking for a stem with internal cable routing, 80mm long, +6 or 0 degree stem. Any tips?
I used the FSA VISION SMR 90mm w/ spacers and the ACR plate to go with the FSA ACR headset.
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Thanks a lot! What is your saddle height from the BB? Mine would be 76cm and I am not sure if the seat tube is too short for that, meaning whether the saddle post goes into the seat tube deep enough?
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Thanks a lot! What is your saddle height from the BB? Mine would be 76cm and I am not sure if the seat tube is too short for that, meaning whether the saddle post goes into the seat tube deep enough?
My seat isn't really dialed in, but as it sits, it's 67.5. I have to pull the seat post and put some carbon paste on it. When I do, I'll report back how much length I still have to the minimum insertion mark, if there is one.
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There's a good 10cm it can be raised before minimum insertion. Depending on the saddle, you could be good up to about 78cm.
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You can certainly choose not to feed cables through the handlebars - just tape them to the bars. Or I suppose you could feed them into the holes marked 16.2*12 and out the holes marked 16*8.5.
Then feed the cables into the holes in either side or top of the frame. No changes to headset or anything aftermarket required.
I've built two of these - one with a flat handlebar & necessarily external cable routing - and one with Carbonda's handlebar and internal cable routing. No regrets with either.
With 4 „cables“ or only 2 meaning wireless group?
I am planning with Shimano 105, not sure if I should go for the fully hidden installation.
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I used the FSA VISION SMR 90mm w/ spacers and the ACR plate to go with the FSA ACR headset.
Thanks for letting me know!
My goal is to have a neat integrated setup with a mechanical disc 105 or Ultegra groupset. Does anyone current have an integrated mechanical groupset on this frame?
Integrated cables means an integrated bar. I'm not as agile as most riders according to my bikefitter, so this could be tricky...but I still want to try this.
I found an integrated bar with an 80mm stem on AE (Ryet Alanera (https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002660965227.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.52427b9brIlKtK&algo_pvid=699cbf3c-498d-4dfc-9f67-9da6d1faa4ea&algo_exp_id=699cbf3c-498d-4dfc-9f67-9da6d1faa4ea-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000022052915190%22%7D)) and a small 7degree drop. Using this I'd need about 70mm of height from the stack-height of the frame (which is calculated without headset, right?). So getting a headset (~10mm), some spacers (~40mm) and the half height of the integrated bar (~20mm) and I should be fine.
I didn't find any integrated bars with a 0 or +7 degree rise. Which may also be a bit weird :o. Nor did I find any stems of 80mm for (semi-)integrated cables with a 0 degree drop or slight rise (up to 7 degree) to prevent using many spacers. So I guess it's either a stack of spacers or a non-integrated setup.
Or do you have any suggestions of integrated bars / (semi-)integrated stems?
Thanks. I finally got out on a ride working full time and two kids makes it difficult to get out. It rides pretty good I don't have a ton to compare it to. On gravel it's def a bit bumpier than my rondo ruut I had previous with 650b x 2.2 tires. But on road it feels really good compared to the rondo. I only did a 12 mile ride and my seatpost came loose by the end so I need to put some more carbon paste I guess. But over happy with it. Also it's a chain stay for forbidden druid MTB
What size frame did you use (L? XL?) and how many spacers did you use on that last picture where your bike is leaning against a tree?
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With 4 „cables“ or only 2 meaning wireless group?
I am planning with Shimano 105, not sure if I should go for the fully hidden installation.
Apologies for delayed response - the integrated build was wireless, so just the 2 hydraulic cables running through the handlebar. Fully integrated makes for a really clean look. The handlebar, headset, spacers, and frame are designed to also accept 4 cables.
In my mind, the larger concern with a fully integrated handlebar is that you have to guess at the perfect reach dimension (and width as well, I suppose) sight-unseen on an also unseen frame. So this path may be best suited for folks that are: a) habitually lucky, b) happen to have measurements perfectly dialed, or c) are willing to accept that the first handlebar may not work perfectly.
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I also found it hard to use the BB guide for the FD cable. I'd prefer to use a cable stop where the outer goes into the BB guide, but that was impossible to achieve.
What I ended up doing was:
- Use the yellow guide tubes to pull an outer cable from the downtube hole to the BB. I just tied the outer cable to the guide tube.
- Fit it with an inner cable.
- Push the outer cable back up into the frame a bit so it's out the way.
- Pull the inner cable through the BB guide and put the BB guide in place. This should work fine if the outer cable is still in the frame.
- Push the outer cable down again. The inner cable should guide it into the BB.
I haven't finished building the bike yet, but the shifting cable seems to move fine.
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I used the FSA VISION SMR 90mm w/ spacers and the ACR plate to go with the FSA ACR headset.
What handlebars did you use with this setup?
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What handlebars did you use with this setup?
Prime Doyenne Aero...the alloy model, not the carbon.
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Nice wheather yesterday here in greater Stuttgart area, so i took the chance to... no, not ride:-( but to take some pics of the (95%) final state of my 1056. I changed the stem several times; now with a Rose Race Attack I'm pretty satisfied as it matches well the frame tube shapes (flat at the top) and the matte color. Setup is "full mechanical" incl. brakes (TRP Spyre SLC). With 160mm front and 140mm rear the performance is fine for a road bike; a bit more would alway be nice (heard of magical "ceramic" pads from the far east ;-)). I tried to run the cables as smooth as possible. With the nice polished parts at the brake calipers and the crank brothers pedals I tried some aluminium bottle cages; from my point of view it matches quite well. Anyway with bottles in them you won't really recognize them anymore... Some plotted decals to be done including giving the baby a name. I think of "1a n3ra" (read: la nera") and make some fun out of the "13" raplcing "lE". Main thing is: color or black reflective? And if color: which? A well known member of this forum is supporting me strongly, but I'm still undecided...
New year update: some might remember that I have that my 1056 has a special top tube shape around the upper headset area. Wing confirmed that the frame was wrongly delivered. It is an OEM design... I asked whether she could tell me the OEM, so I could purchase the matching headset (cover). She said that's not possible, instead she offered to create and send me a specific top cap ;). It's made of aluminum, surely 3D printed.
With internal routing the installation is quite some effort; as I have everything mechanical at least I did not need to remove hydraulic lines. Anyway, now it's done. the cap is even superior to the FSA cap, as every cable runs through a separate hole with it's own rubber seal.
Some modifications were required anyway: the gap in the compression ring was too small to route all 4 cables, so I had to cut small "cake pieces" from it, and with the FSA bearings the gap btw. cap and frame was sligtly too tight. To install the microspacers I had to Dremel away the two pins that fix the top cap in the compression ring. Now they are aligned just by the cables, but no issues with that. Again I'm really impressed by the service Carbonda provides.
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You're a more accommodating customer than I would have been in that situation. I'd have repeated the mantra "send me the correct frame" as many times as it would have taken for them to do so, and make me go away.
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You're a more accommodating customer than I would have been in that situation. I'd have repeated the mantra "send me the correct frame" as many times as it would have taken for them to do so, and make me go away.
IF I wouldn't have desperately been waiting for the frame, and if I would have read the reports about successful claims before, most likely I would have done so ;-)
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IF I wouldn't have desperately been waiting for the frame, and if I would have read the reports about successful claims before, most likely I would have done so ;-)
I can understand that. I had the luxury of having a three-month wait for my groupset, so I could have worked on them about the frame for quite a while. My groupset wound up arriving much sooner than expected, but I didn't know that would happen.
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Based on your experience and that of others and after a long period of research, I've decided to go with the CFR 1056 frame. I've sent an email to info[at]carbonda.com a few days ago expressing my interest in buying a frame from them. I haven't heard anything since and I'm now wondering if there's a better way of contacting them? I'm also not sure how much I should be paying when negotiating.
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I dealt with Katie. You could try her: katietan@carbonda.com
I didn't negotiate. I paid the prices they quoted.
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Thanks for the quick and informative reply! I've forwarded my original email to that address.
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It’s Chinese New Year, likely you won’t hear back until mid February
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Based on your experience and that of others and after a long period of research, I've decided to go with the CFR 1056 frame. I've sent an email to info[at]carbonda.com a few days ago expressing my interest in buying a frame from them. I haven't heard anything since and I'm now wondering if there's a better way of contacting them? I'm also not sure how much I should be paying when negotiating.
From what Wing told me recently, they’ve been very busy and a lot of their frames have been selling out, plus with Chinese New Year’s I’d be expecting to wait a little while. They almost certainly will get back to you soon.
Just an FYI, I had to wait for about a month after placing my order and paying before my FM1002 shipped.
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I recently ordered a Carbonda CFR 1056 in size XL. I'm planning to use it as an endurance roadbike.
My contact at Carbonda was Wing. She was really helpful, send me loads of mails just to be sure she had the right green color. Eventually I decided to make them paint a colortube ($15) of my prefered color. That turned out really wel if you asked me. I reffered to the green on the Scott Addict eride (without the chameleon), they managed to get it spot on if you ask me. I'm going for the matte.
I based my design on the Tarmac SL7 (but matte), with a hint of Scott Addict Eride. A bit more black than intended but overall I'm very happy. Hopefully the green vs black will be a bit more visible outdoors / IRL.
Dates:
26 nov - Ordered the colortube
7 jan - Recieved the colortube movie (the colortube was finished earlier Wing said, but 'someone took it' and went missing)
10 jan - Ordered the frame, fork, headset, tru-axles, rear derailleur hangers, seatpost clamp, some spacer and some extra bits
22 jan - Recieved pictures of the painted frame
24 jan - Recieved tracking no.
Chinese New Year is coming up so hopefully the frames leaves China before that. ;)
I already ordered and recieved my LightBicycle AR46 wheels, new saddle, Ultegra SPD-SL paddles and some bits and pieces. Still not sure what to do with the groupset. Aiming for fully integrated mechanical Ultegra (or maybe a DI2?), but these aren't cheap now, I you can get your hands on one in the first place. Maybe I'll go for something like a Sensah Empire until the prices go down (if...).
I'm almost sure I'll be going for the FSA ACR stem with a compatible bar with low reach.
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Thanks for the quick and informative reply! I've forwarded my original email to that address.
Katie got in contact with me right away, so thanks again. She's (or they - could be a group of people sharing that email - whatever) been very quick at send me a mockup of my requested paint and decal customisation. I'm still deciding whether to go for fully integrated - I think it's going to be easier to work on if I don't, but when I see those FSA examples on this thread, I've got a feeling I might go with my heart.
I was given a quoted figure of USD195 for shipping by air, but given that I'm in no hurry and I still have to source the rest of the components, I'm thinking I should go with a surface option instead and save the dough for better bits. Anyone else gone with surface shipping?
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Katie got in contact with me right away, so thanks again. She's (or they - could be a group of people sharing that email - whatever) been very quick at send me a mockup of my requested paint and decal customisation. I'm still deciding whether to go for fully integrated - I think it's going to be easier to work on if I don't, but when I see those FSA examples on this thread, I've got a feeling I might go with my heart.
I was given a quoted figure of USD195 for shipping by air, but given that I'm in no hurry and I still have to source the rest of the components, I'm thinking I should go with a surface option instead and save the dough for better bits. Anyone else gone with surface shipping?
I'm going with Sensah Empire, then upgrading over time as the cash becomes available and there are some better deals around. I've already gone with that for a restomod I'm working on. Get it on the road/track and then after a bit of time with the bike, look at upgrade options armed with that experience.
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Katie got in contact with me right away, so thanks again. She's (or they - could be a group of people sharing that email - whatever) been very quick at send me a mockup of my requested paint and decal customisation. I'm still deciding whether to go for fully integrated - I think it's going to be easier to work on if I don't, but when I see those FSA examples on this thread, I've got a feeling I might go with my heart.
I was given a quoted figure of USD195 for shipping by air, but given that I'm in no hurry and I still have to source the rest of the components, I'm thinking I should go with a surface option instead and save the dough for better bits. Anyone else gone with surface shipping?
I requested surface shipping for my CFR707, but they shipped by air anyways. It may have been compensation for the manufacturing delays, but I didn't inquire about it.
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24 jan - Recieved tracking no.
Chinese New Year is coming up so hopefully the frames leaves China before that. ;)
I got the tracking number for my FM1002 on that same day but it still hasn’t been picked up — just says “package ready for UPS.” Please post when yours actually ships and I’ll do the same; I wonder if they’ll go out at the same time.
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Mine showed "ready for UPS" for a while. UPS didn't get the package until it arrived in the US, and then it was only a couple days before I had it. There doesn't seem to be much visibility into where anything is before it reaches UPS.
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Mine showed "ready for UPS" for a while. UPS didn't get the package until it arrived in the US, and then it was only a couple days before I had it. There doesn't seem to be much visibility into where anything is before it reaches UPS.
That’s good to know, I’d been wondering if that was the case. Rather a relief actually, to think that it may be in transit rather than just sitting in a warehouse in HK waiting to be picked up.
How long did it take from when Carbonda gave you the tracking number until you received your frame?
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That’s good to know, I’d been wondering if that was the case. Rather a relief actually, to think that it may be in transit rather than just sitting in a warehouse in HK waiting to be picked up.
How long did it take from when Carbonda gave you the tracking number until you received your frame?
Wing told me it shipped on October 26 and gave me the tracking number when it arrive in Hong Kong on October 30. The UPS tracking showed that they received it on November 5, and I received the frame on November 8.
Oddly, the tracking info shows the frame went from Hong Kong to Anchorage and then back to Hong Kong before arriving in California...
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I got the tracking number for my FM1002 on that same day but it still hasn’t been picked up — just says “package ready for UPS.” Please post when yours actually ships and I’ll do the same; I wonder if they’ll go out at the same time.
25th Jan: Item accepted
28th Jan: Shipment departed from warehouse.
No idea which warehouse though ;D But it looks like the frame is on it's way.
Are there any recommendations on compact bars that could be used with FSA ACR stem (so a big hole in the middle) that don't cost more than $ 150? Can't really find any that are (super) compact. Alloy / Aluminum is good enough. I've seen the Prime Primavera. That's one I'll keep in mind.
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This thread has been a been big help in ordering my first Chinese frame. Thank you to everyone who has contributed! I placed my order on January 15 and got tracking info on the 26. But so far UPS tracking says just the label has been created. I went with a purple and green chameleon paint. Gonna build with Light Bicycle AR46 wheels and SRAM Rival AXS groupset. Hoping to get it around 8.3-8.4 kg's.
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This thread has been a been big help in ordering my first Chinese frame. Thank you to everyone who has contributed! I placed my order on January 15 and got tracking info on the 26. But so far UPS tracking says just the label has been created. I went with a purple and green chameleon paint. Gonna build with Light Bicycle AR46 wheels and SRAM Rival AXS groupset. Hoping to get it around 8.3-8.4 kg's.
The tracking should become active within a week or so of when you got it. The total time between when I got my tracking number to when I received my frame (FM1002) was under two weeks.
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I recently ordered a Carbonda CFR 1056 in size XL. I'm planning to use it as an endurance roadbike.
My contact at Carbonda was Wing. She was really helpful, send me loads of mails just to be sure she had the right green color. Eventually I decided to make them paint a colortube ($15) of my prefered color. That turned out really wel if you asked me. I reffered to the green on the Scott Addict eride (without the chameleon), they managed to get it spot on if you ask me. I'm going for the matte.
I based my design on the Tarmac SL7 (but matte), with a hint of Scott Addict Eride. A bit more black than intended but overall I'm very happy. Hopefully the green vs black will be a bit more visible outdoors / IRL.
Dates:
26 nov - Ordered the colortube
7 jan - Recieved the colortube movie (the colortube was finished earlier Wing said, but 'someone took it' and went missing)
10 jan - Ordered the frame, fork, headset, tru-axles, rear derailleur hangers, seatpost clamp, some spacer and some extra bits
22 jan - Recieved pictures of the painted frame
24 jan - Recieved tracking no.
Chinese New Year is coming up so hopefully the frames leaves China before that. ;)
I already ordered and recieved my LightBicycle AR46 wheels, new saddle, Ultegra SPD-SL paddles and some bits and pieces. Still not sure what to do with the groupset. Aiming for fully integrated mechanical Ultegra (or maybe a DI2?), but these aren't cheap now, I you can get your hands on one in the first place. Maybe I'll go for something like a Sensah Empire until the prices go down (if...).
I'm almost sure I'll be going for the FSA ACR stem with a compatible bar with low reach.
I'm being offered the fully integrated option and the partially (normal) integrated option. Does that mean there's any difference between the frames? Or just the type of bundle they offer (i.e. aero handlebars etc.)? If there's actually no difference between the frames, I'd go for the cheaper option and source my own bar, stem and so on.
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There are two versions of the fork. On one, the front brake line enters the fork leg and then exits the fork leg higher. On the other it exits the steerer tube for routing up through the head tube and out the top of the headset. From there you can go fully internal through an appropriate integrated bar and stem, or a bar/stem combo. I went with FSA's ACR/SMR headset/stem combo and the Prime handlebars. My brake hoses are internal from the calipers to the levers.
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I'm being offered the fully integrated option and the partially (normal) integrated option. Does that mean there's any difference between the frames? Or just the type of bundle they offer (i.e. aero handlebars etc.)? If there's actually no difference between the frames, I'd go for the cheaper option and source my own bar, stem and so on.
I had the same choice for my CFR707. The semi-internal option has ports in the frame to run the cables through, and those won't be present on the fully integrated option. The semi-internal one will also come with a solid headset cap while the integrated one will have holes for the cable routing.
It would be possible to switch a semi-internal frame to fully integrated by plugging the frame holes and swapping the headset parts. They should be able to quote you frame-only for either option so you can decide if it makes more sense to chose your own bars.
I went with the semi-internal option on my CFR707 so that I can experiment with my fit more easily. I like the looks of the integrated routing, but I'm not will to give up the ease of assembly and maintenance for that just yet.
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I'm being offered the fully integrated option and the partially (normal) integrated option. Does that mean there's any difference between the frames? Or just the type of bundle they offer (i.e. aero handlebars etc.)? If there's actually no difference between the frames, I'd go for the cheaper option and source my own bar, stem and so on.
I went for the fully integrated option. Wing has send me a quick drawing of the routing inside the fork.
I'll build the rest of the cockpit with a FSA ACR stem and Prime Doyenne bar.
I got the tracking number for my FM1002 on that same day but it still hasn’t been picked up — just says “package ready for UPS.” Please post when yours actually ships and I’ll do the same; I wonder if they’ll go out at the same time.
My last update was 1st of februari, saying: "Flight waiting to take off". I wonder if the flight ever left the ground.
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My FM1002 showed up a few days ago, about 3D after the UPS tracking became active. Maybe a different method was used or they’re shipping from different warehouses.
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...and SRAM Rival AXS groupset...
Do you have it already ?
Any first impressions, pictures available ? 8)
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Do you have it already ?
Any first impressions, pictures available ? 8)
Unfortunately I don't have it yet. And it's looking like I won't have it until the second half of the year.
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I went for the fully integrated option. Wing has send me a quick drawing of the routing inside the fork.
I'll build the rest of the cockpit with a FSA ACR stem and Prime Doyenne bar.
My last update was 1st of februari, saying: "Flight waiting to take off". I wonder if the flight ever left the ground.
Where did you source the stem and bar from? I'm looking for extra options to compare pricing.
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I'll respond also, as I have the same bar and stem. I bought my headset and stem from FSA, and I bought my bars from Wiggle.
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You can get the prime Doyenne bars on wiggle or chaincyclereactions
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I want to use the CFR1056 for cyclocross but wondering about tire clearance. I may need 35MM tires + a few mms for mud on either side. Anyone have any similar experiences with this frame?
I have the CFR696 already but want something lighter for racing cross.
Thanks!
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You can get the prime Doyenne bars on wiggle or chaincyclereactions
I have both the carbon and alloy version of the (Primavera/Doyenne) handlebars. Both are they are lovely. I actually wish I could use them on my fully integrated frames without going the FSA system route.
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Where did you source the stem and bar from? I'm looking for extra options to compare pricing.
I got my Doyenne handlebar from Wiggle and my stem directly from FSA shop. I couldn't find the handle bar anywhere else. The stem (80mm) wasn't in stock at my regular resellers. So got it overseas.
I have both the carbon and alloy version of the (Primavera/Doyenne) handlebars.
Which of the two do you prefer and why? Or aren't there any noticeble differences?
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My last update was 1st of februari, saying: "Flight waiting to take off". I wonder if the flight ever left the ground.
Eventually I got the frame the 9th of february. Without any status update (still showing "Flight waiting to take off") a courier all of a sudden delivered a big box. 8)
See some photo's attached for the result of the paint in the frame. I'm VERY satisfied how this turned out. Got the last bits to build the frame up just yesterday.
Hoping I can make a start this weekend! Keep you posted!
(https://i.ibb.co/G7B7LmD/PXL-20220209-115333747.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G7B7LmD) (https://i.ibb.co/CVHrPrp/PXL-20220209-115703716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CVHrPrp) (https://i.ibb.co/tY62GHn/PXL-20220209-120435133.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tY62GHn)
BTW: Sorry for the late update.
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Which of the two do you prefer and why? Or aren't there any noticeble differences?
The carbon version is probably not worth 3.5x price of the alloy. Yes it's lighter and more comfortable over harsh pavement, but a quality set of handlebar tape and tires can mitigate some of that harshness.
I prefer the alloy for racing due to the road feedback, and the carbon for longer endurance days.
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I finally got my frame built by the local bike shop. Couldn't wait for the groupset to come in so I sourced parts from ebay, Amazon, Competitive Cyclist, etc. Everything is great except there is a small gap where the crown race is sitting on the fork. Anyone else have this gap using the headset from Carbonda (see pic below)? The bike shop said it's fine but it's bothering me.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4xRsmKh_zCa3-w9qwtDDpkB7XyJS0yxOL_ox8elsgevaHDW0VSQ0vQaLvi21mRKD8X_mW6p_hWX9GVZc90zRZppBprTvG-pLHXBxV0axVTjTGWhY5x859Y6DLVw_HoHvmxr5IJiKurHLx4mTZKLN8KKQOJVRmciPxKbPA0JHQbFKkzdg_H3BQNIu26bP77AvPd4pGoguApb1UY1c7n9iH_H8uQ54Lk4bHSgp1xMl4agMVp1lqDgQQOtp10IUwYWquOqfOps7trEwgQ7Z-HcUBfr4U_IKPuzPVZujQgv_Yc9jWuIRh7Ae8KpMEOQ9qY9aG3l8kJ8S3lY4aJS6etkR8-Y42jK0KXb-ITnGF2kmWaW475N-Dz93LeixEWU-pNFvRPxaBtv96E25P3Qswzv2-naoNsV4HzNSUT1E7fRg-LSdbLnP-sqkXcqwDuI26xjPNp41rBL82-TVIv6Ddwj8k-e4f2T5_Fy170nZWEvBRdNb0GyAcoRoxkoGIhp9Kg_QWkRUQPkP70IVqyKiBuHPkYhqDoJc9yjH8fIGMZ3B_mligmYnUoHIrX1iXxanFokS06stDbH5_itGubaTgGZpeju3Pt-gM_4cfX9fmEOF8zqsn0aP3jlNb3Ht61tj_NzWZYkIbERHQJsfhnxA4b0cQJTbtkJ_EjgUHGmKm5uxKFPq7doCxHebt6ftaSOSqRb8BM0rSAHJF-zhNZIdrbw5oeZbEw=w1049-h1391-no?authuser=0)
Here are some other pics. The paint jobs looks so much better in person. Will take some better pictures when it finally stops raining here.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HELa3qZNpNgp8AtUPPslzylklNOTHwtg-p3dRNIrgh178o94761vSWdigJk0YoeUMyi22HR9qy4XNFMYMIXZKgTEye_rIekR1fIClNN66kPtaqITzOKmQKGNJXCGSVg3qrcxLmu1eezPWEQ3OU-47n5GHZozj4N6xCbzVR2p5LpwjmvB5Pt9r5UWk27Or-LsJfJ37wuNFxdi4DKhjZ05UxOyR35irND9ZMGuSkx1ApGpuA26QGohMJ41a3VVSyP05g4SwWYbSZL9ta8FaOlutra308wBgBC1H4QoeBlgOTGG_vyDMneOtiVp6C2VqKVDCJ24Y9Dpn8BpULWXkzkmtWIsIpyFNQugwdSjNI4tgr0BP6tBIRxhwRA18n-OHYYr-GNbRthZMpm3CcASizXdCnw1gL-BQ6A0um-U5tGJk4-jjzlSszb1Owmeo9GHHf7MYvbe4rAmVeSMybftcZx1GGYiLiAjYLk2Dg-YvGxU1ZRTEIw0uh-PDbapr6MfbQJj8ckdO2-mH51isZLkZkzqXAUNCNXms30XGiwAzyBOayKDaeBQ9shA-VErzyth3NedeTVkF6FzpnsdshgYQECew8Wn-hymy5r-o4jmrg8o1txRV1tGQCD7IhzFgGuswgJ-asbEEptxCYN51JmiJa36Zz0i_X4sO-He6PD2ZAHV9ycyHq7U4Ql9lniOfa0RnE3Utgtuy0I5JM-BUFayIgtFumZRMA=w1850-h1393-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Svr8KdeAX8VFwwe1-LKftsokfke-jL_XV4xbvXfeqVKkjj7BsNLXMfGWEbNLUeB9vZY4tIXhsn62dCgEHDEobKmTENfQKESOTWhJ00FfspdgxvVNpBCpAA7KVOf3BKJhUpI_-hXa4BailvSwLoO3gCG-bN2qtHPdGmgwNKA22YTEAisdFeme5_rbjM3XI914P9631ZkeFzEVnoKX30Y-mY4Dh7L3z4XLYLslGbu7U4xhtUqTBH8s_0q1Yy-27cBHzhlKpnkL6BmgkE8ifOHacZj404GkJoTs_4kh1HV5PcNesjYB5KxM1O8qC75yawGK_BUQ-NUP8RwpxRPbIuZJ0-nrwP0Sv7Yt4aUlwtxG9x4CsZFBYjieQj-dRWdoQxUS6rfa7clPagWffoKV-KAFbOYSodBJvjV_4JG-f1Ys7jJHqtkmDbmCGmG5zSXNwlHqQOBlfZZnCJXu3eJb9RcFz8aGzusaTDtCIZWeD75DLoiKG86MXtkP2rA7M2-9tTEM2OZh1zUalQMGtik0TB5_vSJjJpm12pp3qH2k3MnkKsu6FSaxh_lA5qAX24fpD64k6ZjAQeYc_O906a-a8AM1euRNQy8n2CXR2ENvKztpv9YfK8gD61MEna7cde9BHL9pv0EvLw8Vu7aXqZMy1TjYiOyWpDKWN1CkYJwUQ8R0qCN8xadfqmipvO8msO2tG3KD0cGbZ4-hl-4CUqjoHj_K1J2sg=w1049-h1391-no?authuser=0)
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No pics visible
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@king_solomon: If you can't get the crown race all the way down, just lightly file down the carbon of the fork a bit. It may seem scary, but you don't need much, even just a few light rubs with sandpaper can do the trick.
I didn't need to do this on my 1056, but my 696 had the same "issue".
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Hopefully you guys can see the pics this time.
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Hopefully you guys can see the pics this time.
I haven't build up mine yet, but pre-fitted everything losely. I'll check mine if I get back home. I think the gap on my Carbonda headset is not as big.
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Hopefully you guys can see the pics this time.
Dang. The bike rocks. End. :)
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@king_solomon: If you can't get the crown race all the way down, just lightly file down the carbon of the fork a bit. It may seem scary, but you don't need much, even just a few light rubs with sandpaper can do the trick.
I didn't need to do this on my 1056, but my 696 had the same "issue".
Identical for my bikes
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It appears that the Quick Zeit Pro (https://www.biketo.com/product/47598.html?all=1#page_0) is a rebranded version of this Carbonda CFR 1056
This is absolutely huge for me because Quick also offers the Zeit Pro SL (https://www.biketo.com/product/48605.html) which is an 880g lightweight version of the frame thanks to a special T800+30TON layup.
I've always wondered if there were layup differences between various open mould frames and this is proof that yes, you can have a lighter layup to go with your generic frame. Now I just need to find out if Carbonda are the OEM factory themselves (Flybike?) or just another middleman agent. If that special layup version can be bought direct from Carbonda, we may have ourselves another Speeder/Winspace or Miracle/Yoeleo situation.
Quick also recently released their new Blade (https://www.biketo.com/product/49159.html?all=1#page_0) frame. Perhaps Carbonda will offer it too as the CFR 1036? (http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/146.html)
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@StiffWeenies: In my understanding, Carbonda and Flybike are sister companies, where Flybike handles OEM and Carbonda B2C. If you contact Flybike with non-OEM questions, they'll just forward you to Carbonda.
W.r.t Speeder: they stopped responding to my messages as soon as it was clear I'm not an OEM customer.
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@StiffWeenies: In my understanding, Carbonda and Flybike are sister companies, where Flybike handles OEM and Carbonda B2C. If you contact Flybike with non-OEM questions, they'll just forward you to Carbonda.
W.r.t Speeder: they stopped responding to my messages as soon as it was clear I'm not an OEM customer.
You're right! the corrosponding Flybike model seems to be the FM1056 (http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/147.html?productCateId=6)
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Yeah, that's the same frame. I've also enquired about other gravel frames, but if Carbonda doesn't already offer it, it's most likely OEM-only.
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How did you guys get in touch with carbonda, i sent a enquiry from their website form and have heard nothing back ?
I wondering if anybody has a price list from carbonda
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I just email them. I don't think they'll ever give you a full price list. Just ask them for a quote on the parts you want + shipping.
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I've been emailing Wing at sales1@carbonda.com and she's been very responsive.
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Thanks guys
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I got the headset from Carbonda.
Does anyone know what the thin metal rings are for? The FSA ACR headset doesn't include them according to the installation manual.
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I asked the same question on the CFR707 thread.
From carbonazza:
In general these washers are between the slotted ring and the dust cover.
When you compress the bearings, the dust cover sometimes rub the top of the frame.
Adding one or more washers add some space to have only the seal making a light contact with the frame.
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Thanks jannmayer!
So it would be right between the top bearing and the black ring (top left in picture) which cables can run through right?
Other question:
I've some 'cable-rub' when I preload the headset and use my steerer. It seems it's coming from somewhere high in the downtube, around the hole for the Di2 chargeport. I'm building it fully integrated and I use Capgo noise isolation around my back brakecable from the back al the way to the top of the headset bearing. I don't use anything for the Di2 cable (except the Shimano 'zipties') and no Capgo on the front brake cable.
Has anyone ever experienced that? Or is it normal to have some rub for a fully integrated frame?
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I have some rub too. From the hydraulic hoses in my case.
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Is anybody running 650 wheels? What size tire can you get on? Debating getting a set of 650s for pure gravel rides.
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Way too wide, they're useful from 40mm onwards. That won't fit.
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Way too wide, they're useful from 40mm onwards. That won't fit.
650s are too wide? There is another poster, Parkerross, running 42mm Rene Herse Pumpkin Ridges. So I know those fit, just seeing what other's experience is.
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So I finished my bike about 1 month ago. Very very happy with it. A step (leap?) forwards coming from a Cube Aerial. Very direct, responsive, easy to ride and reassuring. Just rides fast. I go about 3-4km faster with 15 BPM less heartrate in my case. Can't find anything my Cube did better.
Very happy with the end result! Picture was without bartape for easy last minute adjustment of the brake levers. Will take a picture of the driveside one day. But first I've got some KM's to shred! 8)
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just curious, is anyone running this as a gravel bike? The 1056 appeals to me as a frame that could double up as a road or gravel bike (perhaps with 2 sets of wheels), and I was wondering if I'm correct in this assessment.
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I wouldn't recommend using it as a gravel bike. Even though the stack and reach are the same as a 696, you can really feel the geometry (head tube angle, wheelbase) is more road-oriented, so agility over stability.
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Hi All, just received my 1056 frame today. See attached pic. Havn't taken any weights etc. Not sure on the colour tbh. It's RAL3032 metallic with logos in RAL 7016 (which looks a bit too dark). I'm sure I'll grow to like it but right now I wish I went for a brighter colour. To compensate, at the same time my 707 frameset arrived (in the same box) in RAL 1003 (Signal Yellow), and that looks awesome!
Won't be able to build them up for a while a have a few bikes already in the workshop.
If anyone has any q's about the process or weights then let me know.
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just curious, is anyone running this as a gravel bike? The 1056 appeals to me as a frame that could double up as a road or gravel bike (perhaps with 2 sets of wheels), and I was wondering if I'm correct in this assessment.
I was using mine with 700x32 road tires on gravel and road mix this week. A few of the roads I would have liked wider but the bike itself handled it well.
I’m holding out to see if I can get a used set with some 38/40s. I think that would be ideal of the gravel I deal with.
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just curious, is anyone running this as a gravel bike? The 1056 appeals to me as a frame that could double up as a road or gravel bike (perhaps with 2 sets of wheels), and I was wondering if I'm correct in this assessment.
like everything else with gravel it really depends on what gravel regularly is where you ride and what is your road / gravel mix? if you ride mostly hard pack, bit of washboard, some ruts etc. (basically the strada bianchi) you will be just fine. i can happily ride this even on a madone with 28's. i don't necessarily recommend (on a madone!) it but it's doable. 32c or better yet maxing out to 35c would be ideal if riding the 1056.
single track, roots, mud, lots of loose rock etc. is a whole other story.
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Does anyone know how the front brake hose routing works in this frame? for internal routing, is it routed up and out of the fork steerer?
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Here's an illustration of the routing in the fork.
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Does anyone know how the front brake hose routing works in this frame? for internal routing, is it routed up and out of the fork steerer?
You'd need the red line in chrizzl0r's image.
To describe it: The brake hose enters the fork just above the calipers on the inside of the left leg and leaves the fork steerer on the frontside. When the fork is mounted in the frame, the hose comes out the steerer between the lower- and upper-headsetbearing.
Ask for the 'full internal routing headset bearing' from Carbonda or get the ACR one from FSA (I'd recommend the FSA)
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Finally got mine built. Going for a shortish ride tomorrow to sort out some adjustments
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Finally got mine built. Going for a shortish ride tomorrow to sort out some adjustments
Looking very nice!!.
Can I ask where did you get your PR3 Cranks?
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650s are too wide? There is another poster, Parkerross, running 42mm Rene Herse Pumpkin Ridges. So I know those fit, just seeing what other's experience is.
Been a min since I've been on here but yeah don't do the 650b its not enough. its too tight. I've been running 35c bon jon pass in the rear on my 1056 in 700 its about the max tire you can I have the 38 in front which fits fine.
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This is probably a stupid question but where can I buy this frame online?
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This is probably a stupid question but where can I buy this frame online?
But direct from Carbonda. There is an email link on their website. They generally respond pretty quickly and are quite helpful.
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Finally got mine built. Going for a shortish ride tomorrow to sort out some adjustments
Congrats.
Very, very nice.
Should be possible you tell us how much did It cost you including shipping?
And the painting was included or It was an add on top the price?
Nice to read you.
Regards.
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Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.
Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH8qMI-fBvc
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Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.
Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH8qMI-fBvc
This would somehow crash the idea of an endurance road bike.. 38mm is allready Gravel style . If that's true I erase the long term idea of a 1056 in my basement :-\ I hope at least that they would offer both frames then, if that's true. The road and the Allroad ...
By the way:
Also Canyon did that with their endurance bike.. the endurace is now not a road bike anymore.. sad story. Need to keep mine in good condition.
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Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.
Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)
I believe this has always been the case. No redesign. 38mm is the absolute limit but it fits. Page 25 of this thread has an example at the bottom.
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I believe this has always been the case. No redesign. 38mm is the absolute limit but it fits. Page 25 of this thread has an example at the bottom.
I suspect that as well. I used to run a 1056 with 30mm tyres, and there was plenty of clearance left for bigger tyres. However, fitting bigger tyres doesn't make the 1056 a gravel bike. The stack and reach are similar to a gravel frame, but the wheelbase is much shorter and the angles steeper, so it handles like a road bike.
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I suspect that as well. I used to run a 1056 with 30mm tyres, and there was plenty of clearance left for bigger tyres. However, fitting bigger tyres doesn't make the 1056 a gravel bike. The stack and reach are similar to a gravel frame, but the wheelbase is much shorter and the angles steeper, so it handles like a road bike.
This would somehow crash the idea of an endurance road bike.. 38mm is allready Gravel style . If that's true I erase the long term idea of a 1056 in my basement :-\ I hope at least that they would offer both frames then, if that's true. The road and the Allroad ...
By the way:
Also Canyon did that with their endurance bike.. the endurace is now not a road bike anymore.. sad story. Need to keep mine in good condition.
Well, it is not unusual for road bikes to accept 32mm tires. So endurance bikes running wider tires is no big deal
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Well, it is not unusual for road bikes to accept 32mm tires. So endurance bikes running wider tires is no big deal
There is a difference in forks that accept 32mm within spec and a fork that accepts 38mm/40mm within spec ... the first one is still slim. The latter one is very broad including the needed clearance and looks quite weird with an 28mm tire. Same is valid for the rear.
And I am not talking about out of spec squeezing in tires in a fork without enough clearance.
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Finally got mine built. Going for a shortish ride tomorrow to sort out some adjustments
Which Jiun brake do you fit?
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Someone on youtube mentioned that Carbonda might have redesigned the 1056 to accept slightly wider tyres (38 mm instead of 32).
If true, this would really move the bike even further into the all-road terrain, even if it does not turn it into a gravel bike proper.
Has anyone confirmed this? The specs on the website have not changed (yet?)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH8qMI-fBvc
keep in mind that he's running schwalbe G-One 38 width tires so they probably measure 36 wide at best real world unless he's running some very wide internal rim width. i don't think i've seen a wide schwalbe gravel tire (>35) come close to its stated width yet, they all tend to be 2-4mm under the stated width.
fortunately we have some pics in this thread of real world 35mm and 38mm width (regardless of what the tire says on its sidewall) to get an idea of how tight the clearances are.
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Hi all,
I'm new here. I have been reading this thread over the past few weeks.
I'm in the process of placing an order for a 1056 frameset , pearl copper colour. I plan to build it with a GRX groupset that I am taking off another bike.
I just want to say thanks to all the contributors for a really great information resource.
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Another thank you for this forum (as well as certain individuals I ping'd directly) for the content here. I just ordered a 1056 and looking forward to building it once it arrives. Once built, I'll share the build details (parts, cost, etc.). First time I'm doing this, so should be an interesting experience!
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I have a curious issue with one of two 1056 frames I've taken delivery of recently.
There seems to be what sounds like sand or grit inside one of the tubes that causes this annoying noise when the frame is tilted. It is super obvious and not subtle at all. I can't seem to get it out of any of the tubes using compressed air or vacuuming or any other method. Hard to exactly pinpoint where the material is trapped but it is most obvious around the downtube and chainstay areas.
Where would such sand/grit (or otherwise mystery remnants of the manufacturing process) be trapped? Aren't all tubes open on the inside or do any of the tubes have any recesses that do not open to connected tubes?
This is driving me a bit crazy.
Carbonda has not been of much help so far. Advised removal of PTFE tubes and seeing if the noise disappears which has already been done.
Any advice appreciated.
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I would try to push and pull a cable or a hose from the back in the chainstay in various directions to maybe catch a debris stuck there.
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I have a curious issue with one of two 1056 frames I've taken delivery of recently.
There seems to be what sounds like sand or grit inside one of the tubes that causes this annoying noise when the frame is tilted. It is super obvious and not subtle at all. I can't seem to get it out of any of the tubes using compressed air or vacuuming or any other method. Hard to exactly pinpoint where the material is trapped but it is most obvious around the downtube and chainstay areas.
Where would such sand/grit (or otherwise mystery remnants of the manufacturing process) be trapped? Aren't all tubes open on the inside or do any of the tubes have any recesses that do not open to connected tubes?
This is driving me a bit crazy.
Carbonda has not been of much help so far. Advised removal of PTFE tubes and seeing if the noise disappears which has already been done.
Any advice appreciated.
I would try flushing the frame out with water, if you’re able to. Like, a lot of strongly flowing water. Shaken up inside the frame if possible.
It’s been my experience that Carbonda frames do come with some factory carbon dust in them and if some of that was bigger chips/flakes or accumulated in one spot for whatever reason I could see it sounding like this…
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I would try to push and pull a cable or a hose from the back in the chainstay in various directions to maybe catch a debris stuck there.
Already done that. Compressed air, vaccum with a slim hose through the BB, long bottle brush. No effect.
I would try flushing the frame out with water, if you’re able to. Like, a lot of strongly flowing water. Shaken up inside the frame if possible.
I would be hesitant to do this. Not sure what the long-term effect of any trapped moisture would be, especially given that the BB shell is a bonded insert.
Carbonda's "solution" was hilarious though. They advised to "drill a small hole inside of seatstay and fill with foam spray". Yeah, no!
The frame is otehrwise lovely and the other one is faultless. Just going to have it built up.
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...I would be hesitant to do this. Not sure what the long-term effect of any trapped moisture would be, especially given that the BB shell is a bonded insert...
It is not that uncommon. Some water will find its way into the frame.
When it's raining through the seatpost for instance, or when cleaning the bike.
And it usually stagnate around the BB, unless there is a drain hole at the bottom of the frame to evacuate.
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It is not that uncommon. Some water will find its way into the frame.
Oh, I absolutely understand that. It's just that I think it is one thing that some moisture ingress inside the frame is inevitable and harmless, and another is to force-flood the inside of the frame with water. Maybe I am being too cautious, I don't know.
In any case, this should be a non-issue now because while that noise is annoying in a quiet room, it will not be audible once the bike is built up and being actually ridden.
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Finally got mine built. Going for a shortish ride tomorrow to sort out some adjustments
that looks real nice! how are you finding the groupset and what is the total weight os the frame?
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question about fully integrated routing:
I recall seeing someone post about an internal routing option for the fork in this thread. The forks shipped with my frames didn't have internal routing ports in the steer tube. Is it something you should request on placing the order if you want it as an option?
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question about fully integrated routing:
I recall seeing someone post about an internal routing option for the fork in this thread. The forks shipped with my frames didn't have internal routing ports in the steer tube. Is it something you should request on placing the order if you want it as an option?
When I order mine, the rep gave me the option to choose the option I want.
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Hi. How is the riding bike build with this frame?
What about maximum wheel clearance?
It is one of my options for the next build.
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Hey all. I’m close to finishing my build. Unfortunately, the lock ring on the front brake rotor is rubbing on the fork. Specifically, where the fork bumps out to accommodate the brake caliper fixing bolt seems to come out too far. Anyone run into this and solved it?
I attached a photo showing the issue. The through axle isn’t tightened down in the photo, but when it is, the rub is bad enough that the wheel barely turns.
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...the rub is bad enough that the wheel barely turns.
If you put the other type of lock ring, that you can tighten with the same tool as for a cassette, you should be fine.
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Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.
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Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.
My Enve G23 all-road wheels use Chris Kings hubs that require an external outer spline lockring to provide enough clearance for the cassette to be properly torqued. This is pretty typical for gravel/MTB and I have not had any frame clearance issues either for my Yeoleo gravel bike or VeloBuild CX frame.
However, I can see this being an issue on road frames with less tire clearance.
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If you put the other type of lock ring, that you can tighten with the same tool as for a cassette, you should be fine.
Awesome. Ordered and should be here mid week. I’ll follow up here if it works in case that helps others. Just need to fix that, align rotors, install the chain, bleed the brakes, index gears, and wrap handlebars. Closing in!
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Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.
The end cap of the older DT-240 12mm were not leaving enough space for the lock ring tool.
Worse you could kind of tighten it, but good luck to get it out.
The EXP doesn't have this issue anymore.
There are flatter versions of this external lock ring, but require more care to tighten.
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Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.
For 15x axles as used on mountain bikes it makes sense to use this type of lockring. Cause the tool won't fit in.
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Update: Success! I used a TRP Centerlock ring for a 12mm axle to replace the Shimano external tooth lock ring. None of the LBS in my area carried the part, so I got the TRP version since Amazon would deliver it in 2-3 days. Thanks all for the recommendations. Providing the update photo for comparison.
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I wanted this frameset for a year now, I ordered on February 3rd just received the email with pictures of my frame this morning (Feb 23).
I like that they covered the bottom bracket face for paint. I won't need to get it faced at my LBS
Size: L
Color: Green to purple Chameleon.
I will post the full build when it's ready! ;D
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...I like that they covered the bottom bracket face for paint. I won't need to get it faced at my LBS...
Yes if you put a 24mm axle BSA BB, no problem.
In the case of a DUB BSA, the BB diameter is a bit bigger and facing might be necessary.
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I will use a Shimano crankset so it's all good. Thanks for the tip!
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I received my frame and started to build the bike. I had to get the brake tab faced on the frame because the front mounting point was way higher than the one towards the axle. Also As you can see in the picture, there is excess resin and the carbon fiber is pretty bad in the headtube.
I contacted Wing to see what they can do about it. I wasn't expecting that seeing the quality of other Carbonda frames on the forum.
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According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?
Thanks!
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I don't have a 1056, but my 707 looked a lot nicer than that inside.
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According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?
Thanks!
The inside of the head tube on my FM1002 isn’t exactly like that but I can see the similarities in the manufacturing technique. Definitely some surface “wrinkles”/protruding edges of carbon sheets and excess resin you wouldn’t expect to see in a branded frame but not quite as sharp edged as those seen in your picture.
It’s not as clean looking but likely has no structural effect at all. Just saves them some money to skip that level of obsessing over how it looks on the inside.
I really wouldn’t worry about it. What you thought might be a void is probably just a chip that separated from the excess surface resin. Doesn’t tell you anything about the interior structure of the frame.
You could probably even sand those prominent edges down a bit if they were rubbing on cables or something, and have zero issues from doing it.
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The inside of the head tube on my FM1002 isn’t exactly like that but I can see the similarities in the manufacturing technique. Definitely some surface “wrinkles”/protruding edges of carbon sheets and excess resin you wouldn’t expect to see in a branded frame but not quite as sharp edged as those seen in your picture.
It’s not as clean looking but likely has no structural effect at all. Just saves them some money to skip that level of obsessing over how it looks on the inside.
I really wouldn’t worry about it. What you thought might be a void is probably just a chip that separated from the excess surface resin. Doesn’t tell you anything about the interior structure of the frame.
You could probably even sand those prominent edges down a bit if they were rubbing on cables or something, and have zero issues from doing it.
Thanks a lot for reassuring me! I've been reading on this forum for quite a bit and gathering info on carbon frames before buying. This is my first carbon frame and I may have seen to many Hambini videos so I was worrying. ;D
Pics of the build coming soon.
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Hi. New member here. Can anyone recommended a replacement top headset bearing cap for use with non-integrated handlebar as I’d rather not use the stock spacers and ACR cover for my build.
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Something like this? https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558
Carbon ships something similar with the frame if you ask for the non-integrated version.
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Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.
I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam. Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work, but advice is always appreciated.
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According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?
Thanks!
Mine is smoother but has similar shape edges.
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Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.
I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam. Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work, but advice is always appreciated.
I’m the same size and ordered a 56. I’ve already got a 696 and that was the right size for me in that frame.
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Thank you for the response. I spoke with Wing and she’ll be able to supply me with this non integrated cap.
I’m also looking for recommendations on sizing. I’m 5’11” (180cm) tall with a 33” (84cm) inseam. Based upon what I’ve read in this thread I’m thinking a 56 frame should work, but advice is always appreciated.
I'm 6'1'' (185cm) and 34''(86cm) inseam and arm span of 200cm and bought the 56cm. 100mm stem with a 10mm spacer. It just been built and I did a couple rides on my trainer and it fits me like a glove.
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Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:
The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD
The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")
Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.
I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.
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Bike looks fantastic. Excellent colors. Very clean. Well done!
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Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:
The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD
The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")
Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.
I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.
Thank you for the 'shout-out' on your post. Your bike looks awesome. I wish I had been more adventurous now with my colour and design choices. A great build, and well done for doing it yourself too.
Regarding your pad rub, it's likely that the mounts are not level and perhaps some paint has also made them uneven. That was the case with mine, but a couple of minutes with a file solved that problem. If you aren't comfortable I'd suggest getting a bike shop to do it. If you do it yourself, then I'd suggest filing a little, checking the flatness, then filing again until you think you have nailed it. Better to be slow and steady than take off too much carbon. Also remember carbon dust can be dangerous so wet the area first and wear a mask.
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Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned.
What exactly do you mean with misaligned, and how did you diagnose this?
Did the bike shop re-face the rear brake mount? This is commonly needed on painted frames, even on $$$ ones, but is often skipped because it requires an expensive tool.
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I think you and 2old2mould are saying the same thing. I hadn’t heard of refacing the mount and will reach out to my LBS to see if that’s a service they provide (and think will help). Essentially, when they tightened the bolts, one of the bolts bent and the rotor rubs the brake pad on one side before pulling the brake lever. I’ll follow up here after chatting with the LBS. thanks for the idea!! Again, as a newbie, I don’t know what I don’t know, so this forum is really helpful.
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I think you and 2old2mould are saying the same thing. I hadn’t heard of refacing the mount and will reach out to my LBS to see if that’s a service they provide (and think will help). Essentially, when they tightened the bolts, one of the bolts bent and the rotor rubs the brake pad on one side before pulling the brake lever. I’ll follow up here after chatting with the LBS. thanks for the idea!! Again, as a newbie, I don’t know what I don’t know, so this forum is really helpful.
I had to reface the rear brake mounts on mine.
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The shop that inspected/tuned my bike doesn’t have the right tools for it. Looking for shops a bit further out. Tbd. In the meantime, has a lovely 40 mile ride last weekend and doing a metric century event next weekend.
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Hello everyone,
I too wanted to thank everyone for the many tips...
Here are the pictures of the bike, mounted with SRAM red.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s7qmPEY74gHfoqsjFWXKe4y_AnvWAqWp/view?usp=drive_link)
Assembly went well... the main difficulties were related to my ignorance... for example, finding the front derailleur sheath stop...
I opted for integrated wiring, with CHB1036 handlebars. Patience is needed... once the sheaths were in place, some cables jammed because of the angles of the handlebars... back to work!
Next, I wanted mechanical disc brakes for weight reasons. I'm pretty happy with the result.
I must have done 600 / 700kms with the bike.
I'm very happy with the way it rides: comfortable and light!
Bike adopted!
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Thank you for trying this frame !
I look forward for your feedback, especially the tire clearance, if 32mm is a conservative limit or if it is tight.
For information here is the link http://www.carbonda.com/road-frames/125.html
how is your project going? I would like to make one too based on this frame.
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I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean? What standards do modern bands support? Thank you.
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I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean? What standards do modern bands support? Thank you.
BSA threaded bottom bracket are less prone to creaking than press fitted BB86 bottom bracket. If you want your bike to sound like an old rocking chair go for BB86.
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BSA threaded bottom bracket are less prone to creaking than press fitted BB86 bottom bracket. If you want your bike to sound like an old rocking chair go for BB86.
9 bike builds with BB86...no creaking with quality bottom brackets. Thread-together pressfit BBs help too.
1 bike with BSA...creaking within first 500 miles.
It should also be noted that most creaking isn't even bottom bracket related.
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I'm noticing that many of you mount the bsa 68 bottom bracket instead of the bb86 on this frame, what does this choice mean? What standards do modern bands support? Thank you.
BB86 gives you the option of both 'normal' press-fit and 'thread-together-press-fit'. Both have pros and cons. Choose one and live with it.
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Dear riders, I would like your precious advice on the road bike components and frame. I am in mtb for 4 years now, and would like to give a go with road bike as well.
I have good experience with fm936 frame and build. I have also good experience with ali components; bars, stems, seatposts...
1. So my first question is, what carbonda road frame would you suggest for a starter roadie?
2. What is the best option for wheels and groupset?
a)Since I have some experience with wheel building so wouldn't be a problem to order hubs/rims and spokes and make my own wheels. My safe bet for my mtb bikes was dt rims (471,391...) and ali hubs (ztto, goldix). Are dt aluminum rim ok for a starter or is it better to go carbon straigh away?
b)I noticed that brake levers/shifters from shimano/sram are SOOOO expensive, so I am thinking about getting ltwoo levers/shifters. Is that good choice?
I will be having more questions, hopefully will get an answer.
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Is this an endurance frame? I don't understand the geometry.
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Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:
The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD
The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")
Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.
I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.
Hi! Where did you buy FSA components? (Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD and the spacers)
Thanks!
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Is this an endurance frame? I don't understand the geometry.
Yes, very close to the Cannondale Synapse geometry.
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Hi,
Please give me the advise, which size will be better S or M? I'm 175cm and 84cm inseam. Im pretty much sure, that M will be suitable, but have some concerns about the geometry. Previously I rode on Canyon Endurace size S, but here except 0.5 degree steeper seat angle, and 9mm taller head tube size M is more less same sizing as S in Canyon.
I'm also considering handlebar from Carbonda? Worth it?
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Hi,
Please give me the advise, which size will be better S or M? I'm 175cm and 84cm inseam. Im pretty much sure, that M will be suitable, but have some concerns about the geometry. Previously I rode on Canyon Endurace size S, but here except 0.5 degree steeper seat angle, and 9mm taller head tube size M is more less same sizing as S in Canyon.
I'm also considering handlebar from Carbonda? Worth it?
I'm your height and I bought a medium. Sometimes I think I should have chosen the small, sometimes I don't. It's that borderline.
I didn't use Carbonda's headset, stem or bars, so I don't have an opinion about their bars.
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how is your project going? I would like to make one too based on this frame.
Sorry for the long delay ::)
The person went for a 1136 instead, BSA BB, with Rival AXS shifters, WR40 lightbicycle wheelset, Force crankset and derailleurs.
The integrated handlebar from Carbonda is great if you know the stem length you need upfront.
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Hi! Where did you buy FSA components? (Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD and the spacers)
Thanks!
Right here: https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/fsa-smr-acr-stem and https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-acr-std
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I had to reface the rear brake mounts on mine.
Been a long time, but following up. I had another shop reface the rear brake mounts. Since I and the first shop tried to force fit bolts, we caused some damage, but it wasn't too problematic. The resurfacing worked great, and the bike rides perfectly now. I've completed a few centuries on it and love how it feels.
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Yesterday I fitted a pair of Spinergy GXX gravel wheels to my CFR-1056. They have 35mm Schwalbe G-One Allroads mounted. They fit beautifully.
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Hello,
I am brand new here and very interested in the CFR 1056. The size M should fit me perfectly at 179cm and 87cm inseam. But I'm really torn and wonder if I should take the risk, since there are obviously some issues with quality at Carbonda:
1) I have a CFR 696, where the seatpost sags (already tried 4).
2) I read at @msm626 post "the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned...". In this case I would be completely lost, since I am a relatively inexperienced hobby mechanic and in such a case even the bike dealer could possibly not help. 700 bucks for nothing...
How big do you estimate the risk, what are your experiences with quality assurance at Carbonda?
By the way: Great forum here :)
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If you look hard enough you'll find horror stories about any brand.
Carbonda is one of the builder that has high quality products and service.
Sometimes bad luck strikes, but they generally stand behind their products.
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Hello,
I am brand new here and very interested in the CFR 1056. The size M should fit me perfectly at 179cm and 87cm inseam. But I'm really torn and wonder if I should take the risk, since there are obviously some issues with quality at Carbonda:
1) I have a CFR 696, where the seatpost sags (already tried 4).
2) I read at @msm626 post "the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned...". In this case I would be completely lost, since I am a relatively inexperienced hobby mechanic and in such a case even the bike dealer could possibly not help. 700 bucks for nothing...
How big do you estimate the risk, what are your experiences with quality assurance at Carbonda?
By the way: Great forum here :)
This is my second bike and the first bike that I built. There is no tolerance issue with the frame.
My only suggestion is to try not to buy the integrated handlebar if you are not certain about your geometry. I took the shortcut and now find out the reach is a little bit long, but not terribly long that needs to redo all the work. :-\
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Good evening everyone, in the meantime I have received my crf 1056 size XL and I have also assembled it.
Sram Force groupset, Senixc PR3 BB BSA crankset, DT Suisse PR1400 Dicut wheels and Aliexpress handlebar because the Carbonda one didn't have the measurements I wanted.
Transparent matt paint on UD carbon.
No assembly problems, no irregularities.
Carbonda very fast and courteous communication via Skype, they send photos in real time.
excellent finishes, only flaw, painting times a little long.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1g07vXtZ/20230910-121749-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1g07vXtZ) (https://i.postimg.cc/4mr8ZVHg/20230910-122148-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mr8ZVHg) (https://i.postimg.cc/gXNSP78S/20230910-122207.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXNSP78S) (https://i.postimg.cc/QVdYqXZR/20230910-122211-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVdYqXZR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jn28qhhs/20230910-123102-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jn28qhhs) (https://i.postimg.cc/RqpssjMq/20230911-183619.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqpssjMq) (https://i.postimg.cc/Z9mVvmLs/20230911-183941.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9mVvmLs) (https://i.postimg.cc/ZWpwqn6y/20230911-183949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWpwqn6y)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zVLd90B7/20230911-184920.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVLd90B7)
I need to replace the headset spacers, do you have any advice on where to find them?
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Hi All, just wanted to share my 1056 build.
Size: 58 (XL). I'm 188cm (6'2"), inseam 90cm, armspan 186cm
Happy with sizing, probably could've gone with Large but due to my shorter arm length I wanted the taller stack of the XL, plus wanted to use for some gravel so guessed longer wheelbase wouldn't be bad.
Frame: Purple Gold chameleon paint, the gold really only shows in bright sunlight, it's subtle, I like it. There's a few lumps that could've been filled/sanded better, but kindof expected at this price point. Got them to fill in the cable holes. Am running cables through headset, using FSA no69 which works fine. Wish the cable hole through the fork would fit the compression nut, to make fork removal easy, guessing that's probably same for any frame, and prob not feasible.
Components: picked up a 3T strada build kit cheap here in Aus. Force 1x, Carbon cranks, 3T carbon wheels & bars. Went with 44T x 11-42 which is perfect for my use.
Tyres: Tufo Thundero 36 (on 18.2mm internal rim). Had to take some scissors to the side knobs on the rear to give myself comfortable space. Still yet to have tyre touch frame, zero scratches even when caked with mud. Added protective tape just in case.
WTB Byway 34 fits great. Maxxis Rambler 38 fit front but not rear.
Weight: currently 8kg without pedals. XL Frame w axle = 1180g, Fork w axle uncut = 508g
Riding: overall this is my new favourite, been doing apx 80/20 tarmac/gravel. It's such an amazing feeling to be on something that's lightweight, fast, and can go literally anywhere. One minute cruising down cycleways, next minute taking a shortcut through the bush on some singletrack, the versatility is just unreal. I'm getting around town soo fast now, feels like my city has become so small. Can't really comment on ride feel since I've only experienced a few alloy road bikes with skinny tyres, but yeah it just disappears underneath me, not been left disappointed or wanting in any way.
Carbonda: I've dealt with Katie for previous purchase of FM936 and now this, she's been excellent, quick to respond with thorough answers, no hassles there.
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very beautiful compliments. This frame is really beautiful and adapts well to the types of use.
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Hi, first post :)
I plan to install 105 di2. Would a subcompact 48-32 work?
Thx
Olivier
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interesting but I don't know... ::)
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Anyone try to utilize a Fizik Antares saddle with the braided carbon rails? Compatible with Carbonda supplied set back seat post?
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Hi all. I wanted to share a pic of my completed CFR1056 build as well as thank everyone for the contributions to this thread that helped me figure it all out. This is my first bike build, so there was a ton of learning in the process. A particular thank you to "2old2mould" for sharing his file for design that I leveraged in communicating with Wing. Details on what I ended up with:
The big stuff:
Frame: FM1056 Size M. (I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam and not super fit/flexy). Internal routing. 2-tone paint glossy.
Bottom Bracket: BSA-68
Groupset: Shimano 105 r7000. Hydraulic disc brakes, 11 speed.
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT Disc. 45mm depth; 28mm external width. Tubeless compatible.
Tires: Continental Grand Prix S TR - 28mm
Power Meter: Stages L Side for Shimano r7000
Stem: FSA SMR ACR Stem - 90mm
Headset: NO. 55R 1.5" ACR STD
Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Streem Internal Routing Handlebar
Pedals: SHIMANO PDM520 Clipless SPD
The little stuff:
Hydraulic Hoses: Shimano SM-BH90 Disc Brake Hose
Shifter Cables: Shimano Dura-Ace R9100 Shift Cable Set
Tubeless Tape: Zukka Tubeless Tape 23mm
Handlebar Pads: Selle Italia Bar Tape Shock Absorbing Pads
Bar Tape: Domain Cycling Handlebar Tape & Bar Ends (94" x 1.2")
Build Learnings: Building the bike was an adventure and YouTube intensive. I had three major issues. First, an end cap for the front wheel hub went missing during the build, and since I didn't know better, I didn't realize a part was missing. This required finding a replacement. As the wheels are from a China based company, that took a lot of work to get sorted out. Checking for loose pieces everywhere before throwing out packaging would have saved me from this. Second, the original lock ring I had for the front brake rotor was too large and rubbed against the fork. I had to swap to a TRP Centerlock ring that was angled (narrow on the outside edge) to create space. Third, the holes for the rear brake caliper were slightly misaligned. This created rub between the brake pads and the rotor even without squeezing the brake levers. My local bike shop was unable to fix this issue, and Wing wasn't responsive. After ~50 miles of riding, the brake pads wore down a bit to allow free movement, but it feels like riding into a headwind until that happens. Will be annoying with each new set of pads. Fourth, while I wanted to go fully integrated, I wasn't sure on fit and feel. So I used the semi-integrated cabling route through the stem to allow some extra cable length. Once I've dialed everything in, I may go through the effort of routing through the handlebar directly and going fully integrated.
I did have my local shop complete an inspection/tune on the bike before riding it, and they found a few mistakes I made and corrected them. I highly recommend going that route if this is your first build or you lack 100% confidence in your skills. Overall, great experience.
Hi! What is the size of the disc? I think I have a problem with my frame. I have the brake mounted with its bracket but it collides with the seat stays. My disk is 160
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I think you installed the bracket that goes to the front.
At the rear the caliper is mounted directly without adapters.
That bracket is for the fork
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I think you installed the bracket that goes to the front.
At the rear the caliper is mounted directly without adapters.
That bracket is for the fork
The 160 rotor in this frame needs rear adapter. The front adapter is different
Firts picture is the front adapter and the second picture is the rear adapter
Thanks
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you're right, there's an adapter on mine too, maybe you have to rotate it 180 degrees?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/7GSnW8WW/Screenshot-20231025-081533.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GSnW8WW)
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How is the stiffness of this frame? Have you done the test of trying to join the fork and rear chainstays with your hands?
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Is anybody 6'4, 193cm and has the XL of this frame? Is it big enough? I already have the 696 in 61 and it is a great fit. Thanks for any help.
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How is the stiffness of this frame? Have you done the test of trying to join the fork and rear chainstays with your hands?
sorry but what does this test show?
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Is anybody 6'4, 193cm and has the XL of this frame? Is it big enough? I already have the 696 in 61 and it is a great fit. Thanks for any help.
I wear size XL but I'm 1.86cm tall. I think it's too small for you. you need to compare the geometry measurements to those of the current frame you use.
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Finally I fixed the rear brake problem by using a 140 disc without adapter.
This is my setup:
- Groupset shimano 105 di2 (r7170)
- Wheels serenade Novatec TRF40S - Sapim cx-ray
- Steam Vision SMR 80mm
- Headset FSA ACR No 55
- Handlebar Ritchey Comp streem bb
- Ceramic Kactus
Weight is 8kg with all components
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that looks great! what is the finish on the fram? raw UD with just clear coat?
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that looks great! what is the finish on the fram? raw UD with just clear coat?
UD Carbon paint
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Is anybody 6'4, 193cm and has the XL of this frame? Is it big enough? I already have the 696 in 61 and it is a great fit. Thanks for any help.
I'm the same height with a XL, fits great for me, absolutely no complaints.
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UD Carbon paint
Looks great indeed! Would you happen to have a better close up picture of the finish and paint?
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Hi everyone,
I am starting to build a Carbonda 1136 frame and I am facing a potential problem. I ordered the non integrated version of the frame so that I can use a regular handlebar, easily adjust the front setup, stem length etc. in the future.
So I have two holes on the sides of the downtube for the derailleurs housings, and also an entrance and exit on the fork leg for the front brake hose. That is it, so I am wondering where the rear brake hose is supposed to come out.
I was expecting another hole for the rear brake with this external version of the frame, somewhere at the top of the downtube. So I am wondering: is it a mistake from Carbonda ? Or is it normal with this frame and the rear hose is always supposed to pass through the headtube ? In the latter case, you would necessarily have to use a semi-integrated type of headset (FSA NO.69 SRS or Acros is52 ICR if I am not mistaken, or the FSA NO.55R for the fully integrated setup).
Thank you for your insights!
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You might get your best answers int the CFR-1136 thread:
https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=4178.0
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You are right, thanks. I copied my question and pasted it there
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My 1056 once again. Weight is 7,34 kg - without tool bag.
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wow great weight. What size is the frame? besides the red group, what wheels do you fit? mine in size xl mounted on force and with 1500gm wheels weighs 8.2kg
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Normally i use a wheelset consisting of chris king hubs and nextie arx 44 mm rims. total weight 1500 g.
This VEL 50 RL wheelset should be about 100g heavier. Frame size is s.
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Hi all
I am looking into buying this frameset for my next all road bike. I am wondering how the frame is regarding stifness and comfort.
Last year, I had the opportunity to ride a Canyon Endurace CF (newest model) for a week. The Endurace is known as being "comfortable", also in terms of vibration/road buzz damping. I replaced the stock saddle and wheels for my own (pulled from my own bike) and made several rides on a standard route I often ride.
I currently have an aluminum gravelbike (Sonder Camino AL). The difference between the Sonder and the Canyon in terms of vibration damping, was big.
Is there anyone with a similar experience? Moving from an aluminum bike to the CFR1056 and could provide his/her experience regarding the vibration damping capabilities of the frameset?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Greets
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I think tires will have a bigger impact on comfort than the frame. This frame will fit 32c tires so if you need max comfort go that route.
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I think tires will have a bigger impact on comfort than the frame. This frame will fit 32c tires so if you need max comfort go that route.
I've had 38mm tires on my 1056 with no issues.
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The current version can handle 38mm tires indeed. The information on the carbonda website is outdated.
I did my test riding on the Canyon with the same wheels/tire/saddle/seatpost combo which I transferred from my aluminum Sonder.
So all comfort/contact points except from the bars, where the same and I could clearly feel a difference between the two bikes.
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So all comfort/contact points except from the bars, where the same and I could clearly feel a difference between the two bikes.
Could you elaborate a bit more on that? I am really curious what kind of difference you've felt.
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Could you elaborate a bit more on that? I am really curious what kind of difference you've felt.
On tarmac no difference. The big difference was the road buzz when on a "klinkerweg". The Canyon was way smoother on that type of road than my Sonder.
A "klinkerweg" is a typical dutch road (in Belgium too I think), in several forms, usually found in urban areas/villages or older bicycle paths with have not been converted to tarmac yet. Is consists of cobbles but certainly not the Paris-Roubaix type.
I have attached an image of several forms of a "klinkerweg"
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The current version can handle 38mm tires indeed. The information on the carbonda website is outdated.
I will believe it when I see it. I bought mine in spring 2023 and it's impossible to fit a 38mm tire. It will rub against the seatstays.
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You might be right. I'm not sure. I have a 2021 CFR-1056 and have run Schwalbe G-One Allarounds in a 35 on my Farsports wheels and they weren't close to rubbing. I can't attest that a 38 won't rub.