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61
Fair enough. As for the SL7—well, the SL8 is noticeably more comfortable to ride, so in that respect, you could say the X68 has more in common with the SL7.

Like I said, it’s a good frame so far. I’m actually surprised—surprised enough that it made me raise an eyebrow!
But let’s be clear: it’s not an SL8. The SL8 offers a smoother, more refined ride, as I’ve mentioned. I’m no expert, but even doing something as basic as the tap test on the down tube and top tube, they sound different. Not very scientific, I know, but it says something.

In terms of stiffness, the X68 is right up there—even the bars feel solid. This bike is definitely planted, not a noodle.

Five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a copy or fake frame, but they’ve come a long way—very close now.
It’s a bit like the 1:1 Rolex clones—experts now need loupes and specialised equipment just to spot the fakes. That’s how close these frames are getting. Manufacturers will have to step up to stay ahead.

I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.
62
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Last post by Anders on Today at 06:27:37 AM »
I'm same height as you are and I've recently ordered an XL as well. It looks like you are going to end up with a pretty long position. For a reference, I'm currently riding a lightcarbon gravel frame that is 2cm shorter than this one and I'm running 110mm cockpit and 15mm offset seatpost. For this build i've opted for a 100x420 cockpit and i've ordered both 0 and a 20mm offset seatposts just in case.

I'm not giving you a fit advice of course, just be sure to double check the geo since the frame is really long.

Thanks, this is good input! Im totally clueless when it come to road/gravle bikes, so I maximized size thinking i could always replace the stem etc later on. Since I have to learn this new type of bike i guess that making too eratic changes in start wont make huge impact (except avoiding soar hands and back for too long reach). I will follow your example here :)
63
No one here has bought an AliExpress Carbon Saddle I find that hard to believe!
65
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Last post by pavlo.k on Today at 05:26:18 AM »
Hi, first time poster on the forum here. I have been reading here for a while and got tempted to make a gravel bike. Parts and frame are ordered, so a good day to sign up here and get involved. I’m a 193cm tall and around 100 kilo, I have been riding mountain bikes for a few years but need something a bit more speedy. This build will be used for commutes on tarmac and gravel.
This is my first build, so I might have done some dumb choices or forgotten something important, but hopefully my

Aero Grav XL, +2 cm setback, 12cm stem (none integrated), 440mm  bar.
Senicx PR3 Gravel Bike Crankset 40T chainring 175mm Crank 10/11S Speed 24MM
Senicx T47-85.5-24R-Ceramic botom bracket
Wheeltop EDS GEX groupset
YBN 12 speed chain
Elitewheels Gravel wheels
Shimano RT86 160mm am 180mm rotors
ZTTO HG 12s 11-50 ULT SR cassette
Maxis Rambler 45C tires

Internal frame housing damper
Bartape
Carbon paste
Extra spacers for stem.
Cables and cable hosing
Grease
Tubeless valves and sealant
Pedals
Saddle

I would like to have mudguards but unsure what to get. If anyone have a advice or se anything wrong missing in the build, then please let me know

I'm same height as you are and I've recently ordered an XL as well. It looks like you are going to end up with a pretty long position. For a reference, I'm currently riding a lightcarbon gravel frame that is 2cm shorter than this one and I'm running 110mm cockpit and 15mm offset seatpost. For this build i've opted for a 100x420 cockpit and i've ordered both 0 and a 20mm offset seatposts just in case.

I'm not giving you a fit advice of course, just be sure to double check the geo since the frame is really long.
66
While that is totally true, Sapim will 100% apply some form of heat treatment which will reverse some of the martensitic cristalline structure in the metal after cold forging. After that amount of forging, this spoke would be way too brittle otherwise. After all, the CX Ray is known for its exceptional fatigue resistance. I’ve never seen one break.
Since we know neither the exact alloy they’re made of nor the exact heat treatment process, it’s impossible to know how similar the Laser and the CX Ray really are in their metallic structure.

And apart from all that, they definitely feel different IME

A friend crashed on a wheel using Pillar wing 20 spokes. He crashed fairly hard, and broke 4 spokes, from memory, front wheel. Do you think the wheel would have survived had it used Sapim CX Ray? Hubs and rim were fine, he had it rebuilt.
Fatigue and impact are different things, but it's worth asking :)
67
One point to note, the preload ring is not compatible with SRAM DUB cranks.

The SRAM one has a moveable part that carries the thread, meanwhile all the chinese cranks (LEESE/CYBRE/PASSQUEST/FOVNO etc) all have the preload thread on the ND crank.

But on the other hand, the preload rings for chinese cranks seem to be compatible with each other.
My FOVNO one works fine on the LEESE one.

The problem seems to be with the repair part availability, so far I can only find the preload rings from WEIR (another crank priced very similar to LEESE) sold alone.
68
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Budget (sub 1k) Build recs
« Last post by Serge_K on Today at 05:16:35 AM »
the OP wrote in EUR, and so, a cassette costs 20-25 eur max (full steel, bombproof, 11s), bar tape is under 5 eur, a chain (Alix or decathlon is under 20 eur (KMC. YBN), chainset with rings 60/65 eur (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006032054478.html), even though you can spend a bit less than that; rotors are <5 eur a piece. Tyres, given the budget, dont get total crap, but if you can spend 60 eur for a pair instead of 90, maybe it's worth it, really depends on how strict your budget is. Good tyres are nice, but a budget is a budget. Obviously, get TPU tubes, dont go tubeless (it's more expensive)
69
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« Last post by Da11as on Today at 05:02:10 AM »
Hi, I just bought these cranks this week. I think they’re a good price and I know Bigrock makes high-quality products. They don’t come with a manual, according to the seller, but I think I’ll just follow the same steps as with the Cybrei. Have you already installed them and been able to test them? As for the bolt that holds the axle, I don’t know anyone who can make one for me — do you know where I could buy one and what it’s called, preferably a high-quality one?
I did not install them yet as I am still waiting for my groupset. You could try to find the bolt with same thread in some home repair store, such as OBI or look for a bolt with the same dimensions online. If you are in Europe I may ask my guy to make another bolt and send it to you :)

BTW 3-bolt spider from P2Max fits just fine - no play or gaps, same goes for BUCKLOS 3-bolt spider.
70
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Budget (sub 1k) Build recs
« Last post by Da11as on Today at 04:51:38 AM »
I can tolerate a few things as it‘s mostly for leisure training activitys and maybe 1-2 races a year.An Alloy frame and wheels would be fine as long as I‘m able to keep the build sub 10kg but I can‘t go with mechanical discs or rim brakes as I just can‘t stand them anymore.

Getting a used bike is also out of the question as I don‘t want to face issues caused by previous owners bad maintenance or general fatigued material due to age and use, else I would have done that.
Frameset, there was a thread somewhere on the forum regarding this frame. I suggest to check it out and ask about details and quality of accesories: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008991692266.html including fork, axles, BB, headset, some handlebar
~400$

Groupset: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006449025000.html
~200$ Get 2x12

Chain: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003489164453.html
~45$ buy silver if you are planning to wax, if it's too expensive or not waxing, get YBN one level below

Chainset: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000006338700.html
~80$ I strongly suggest to buy separate spider and chainrings from Stone or Pass Quest. Else, look for used 105 chainset with the crank length you need (don't buy 175 simply because they are easy t get)

Casette: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006343081906.html
45$

Bar tape: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000192578780.html
12$

Rotors Cnock-offs of Sram's: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005933139495.html
12$

Wheels: whatever you can find on the aftermarket. I wouldn't trust Chinese alloy wheels and you can get stock wheels from some Giants PR-2s for very cheap, look for tubeless compatible
~100$

Tyres: don't buy shit, spend some money on GP5000S/AS or Pirellis PZero TLR/TLR RS, buy wider ones
~120$

That will put you at 1014$. Everything except the group and the frameset in the list above I tested myself and the quality is way above the budget build (of course you may go cheaper). You may consider buying frameset without accessories but then it may be a bit more expensive. If you can negotiate modern bar/stem and you know what are the needed dimension I suggest to go for frame set+accessories option.
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