Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: OralMaster on December 08, 2023, 12:29:54 AM
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https://youtu.be/x0L9USE7mco?si=7JPnX7sPmMfElagw
pricing looks good (3999 rmb for carbon hydraulic disc), available in both disc/rim, and carbon / alu
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Weights on this reel:
Shifters: 428g
FD: 185g (500mAh battery)
RD: 319g (800mAh battery)
Disc brakes: xxx
Upgrade kit: 1,263g
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/k6QjJLVYM3sBrHVQ/ (https://www.facebook.com/share/r/k6QjJLVYM3sBrHVQ/)
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On going thread already exists. Here is the link to the existing thread.
Do we need a separate thread for the road version?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3960.0.html
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That's the slowest shifting FD I have ever seen.
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That's the slowest shifting FD I have ever seen.
I am confident that's slow motion footage. Why would they do that? God knows. Chinese marketing departments can be a bit odd sometimes.
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I am confident that's slow motion footage. Why would they do that? God knows. Chinese marketing departments can be a bit odd sometimes.
Yeah, or the cadence of the rider is very slow :D
That FB reel is also really amateurish...
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idk what you're expecting. Makes sense to me for them to spend the money actually developing the product in these stages rather than making shiny marketing material. Their future depends on this being an actual reliable and functional product
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They have front derraileur trim, if it's auto trim they'll be getting a call from shimano lawyers this time
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Its a tough market to be in right now. At ~500USD for the hydro group its tough to justify going with an unproven product when you can piece together a Sram AXS rival 2x system for less than $600 including batteries and an Apex 1x lever set w/ Force brakes + Rival Xplr RD for $470 including battery.
The Wheeltop system also loses the removable battery which is a really nice part of living with the Sram system and you also lose the clutched RD.
Edit: should add that its $522+tax RN to grab open box 105 di2 levers+brakes, FD, RD, battery and cables from the Pros Closet; so there is another option in that $500 price range for electronic shifting for the US based people.
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I guess it makes it as bad as new campagnolo ;D
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Lots of rim brake folks out there who could be interested in this maybe? I am intrigued, but way too happy with my rim brake bike to give this a try.
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I am intrigued and I won't run sram as long as the front range is so limited
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How do you replace the battery if it goes bad?
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How do you replace the battery if it goes bad?
My brother will figure out how one replaced the fixed battery. He recently purchased the new Version EDX fixed battery and says he will figure out how to replace it. He wanted the original version with removable battery, but they were no longer available. (I have 4 of the EDS removable battery long cage derailleurs.) Love them so far!
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Lots of rim brake folks out there who could be interested in this maybe? I am intrigued, but way too happy with my rim brake bike to give this a try.
This group set is out of the picture for me. If I ever build up a new road bike, I will go with hydraulic disc brakes. I have my 2 road bikes that I seldom ride anymore because of safety concerns riding on paved roads with cars. USA society has slowly been "killing" of road riders via too many distracted and aggressive drivers on the road.
MY money for the rest of my life will be focused on Gravel riding and MTB riding. Road bikes only for foreign trips and organized rides like centuries.
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This group set is out of the picture for me. If I ever build up a new road bike, I will go with hydraulic disc brakes. I have my 2 road bikes that I seldom ride anymore because of safety concerns riding on paved roads with cars. USA society has slowly been "killing" of road riders via too many distracted and aggressive drivers on the road.
MY money for the rest of my life will be focused on Gravel riding and MTB riding. Road bikes only for foreign trips and organized rides like centuries.
I live simultaneously in the best (weather) and worst (infrastructure) city for cyclists in the US. I actually find it's safer to ride in the rough neighborhoods as opposed to the nice neighborhoods. The nicer the area, the more entitled the drivers. This is why I focus more on road and gravel climbing to avoid traffic. I remember as a kid in the 80s, US road cycling had much more appeal. Nowadays the barrier of entry is much too high for all but the most dedicated and well-funded enthusiasts. This site being the exception, but still being very niche.
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This group set is out of the picture for me. If I ever build up a new road bike, I will go with hydraulic disc brakes. I have my 2 road bikes that I seldom ride anymore because of safety concerns riding on paved roads with cars. USA society has slowly been "killing" of road riders via too many distracted and aggressive drivers on the road.
MY money for the rest of my life will be focused on Gravel riding and MTB riding. Road bikes only for foreign trips and organized rides like centuries.
Cmon use your eyes, it's explicitly stated there are hydraulic disc versions
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Cmon use your eyes, it's explicitly stated there are hydraulic disc versions
Thanks. Who would think that the last picture would state this in the prices rather than in the first spec page. Plus, the image size I looked at, the text was too small to actually see clearly. Old blurry eyes had to zoom the picture in to be able to read the small text.
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Some new promo videos of the road groupset:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmmVNEVfIcY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_SERotuGY
Seems interesting but the proof will be getting a few sets out for longer term reviews.
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I have much more confidence in WheelTop re: hardware than LTWOO or Sensah. Software ... we'll see.
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same
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Sorry if i missed, has this groupset been released? Keen to order.
I’ve ordered the L-twoo ERX (on sale $600) will put that on a new light carbon build
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First listing I've seen on AliExpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006338885203.html
Hydraulic disc install video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmyoX0q4tQU
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nice find, becoming real.
I saw you can adjust from 7s to 12s on the screen app, let's see if it is true or not.
Here you can pre order it
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2J-8uNMIIg/?img_index=1 (https://www.instagram.com/p/C2J-8uNMIIg/?img_index=1)
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7-13 s acually
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7-13 s acually
ah yes 13s.
Hope to see a review from Trace velo or china cycling about it, the Ltwoo was very promising but all the recent issues are making it less interesting.
If Wheeltop is near to perfect, Ltwoo will have to quickly release an update of their product.
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That's crazy ass cheap and interesting! If this goes well I think the big names should update their prices
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Global launch in Feb 2024
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That's crazy ass cheap and interesting! If this goes well I think the big names should update their prices
Including VAT for EU it's not very interesting for the time being. But it's only the first listing so prices should go down...
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Weight and price comparison.
Wheeltop EDS TX
Source https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7s9E3HGAlmI
Shifters - 430g
Front derailleur - 185g
Rear derailleur - 320g
Overall - 935 g.
Current price on aliexpress around 720 USD. Price for Malaysia 2900 RM or around 620 USD (source https://www.instagram.com/p/C2ExxBas-Wf)
L-TWOO ER9
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71En2akvLKA
Shifters - 450g
Front derailleur - 141g.
Rear derailleur - 293g.
Battery case - 22g.
2x 14500 batteries - around 40g.
Cables - 27g.
Overall - 975g.
Current price on aliexpress around 500 USD.
L-TWOO ERX
Weight is almost the same as the ER9, 20-30g lighter due to carbon brake levers and a carbon rear derailleur cage.
Current price on aliexpress around 660 USD.
Shimano 105 R7100 Di2
Source https://www.bikeradar.com/features/shimano-105-di2-weight
Shifters - 442g.
Front derailleur - 138g.
Rear derailleur - 301g.
Battery- 52g.
Cables - 21g.
Overall - 954g.
Current price on aliexpress around 800 USD.
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First listing I've seen on AliExpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006338885203.html
Hydraulic disc install video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmyoX0q4tQU
Here is the kicker for me...
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wait for the groupset to be released in February and more sellers will have it.
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For a rookie like myself what cassette and chain can I run on this group set?
Really keen on pulling the trigger, 900AUD on Ali atm.
I should prob wait till reviews come out tho haha
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For a rookie like myself what cassette and chain can I run on this group set?
Really keen on pulling the trigger, 900AUD on Ali atm.
I should prob wait till reviews come out tho haha
Yeah, you don't want to be a beta tester like all those people with their faulty Ltwoo sets... Not for this kind of money...
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I'm assuming it should be possible to swap out for Magura or Shimano calipers?
Hoods and calipers are an unknown quantity, but I doubt Wheeltop will release derailleurs with the kind of problems LTWOO and Sensah have had, if their MTB offering is anything to go by. Software ... we'll see.
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For a rookie like myself what cassette and chain can I run on this group set?
In theory, if they have similar/same software as on the MTB version, any brand cassette 7 to 13 speed. The software will let you adjust to the cog number and cog spacing. Regarding the chain, its compatibility with the cassette and front chain-rings would be the primary factor.
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Yeah, you don't want to be a beta tester like all those people with their faulty Ltwoo sets... Not for this kind of money...
My issue with the Wheeltop groupset is the lack of replaceable batteries, weather proofing and overall mechanical durability. Not to mention price-wise it's already creeping into 105 Di2.
LTwoo eroded so much trust in their ERX/9, it's like playing Russian roulette with the groupset. The least they could offer are definitive revisions so you know you're not buying old stock.
Right now 11 speed Ultegra mechanical components are being sold for great prices. That's a solid groupset in terms of price, weight and performance (minus the crankset). An Ltwoo/Wheeltop/Sensah electronic groupset would need to reach that bar of reliability to be considered worthwhile.
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Electronic groupsets have been a game changer for all the bike builds and reviews I do. Especially with SRAM eTap. Literally cuts my bike building time from 3 days down to same day in some cases. During Christmas 2022 you could find SRAM Force D1 mini-groups (Levers, Calipers, Both Derailleurs, Centerline CLX-R Rotors, Batteries, and Charger) for $900 USD. Comparable Rival sets were like $600. And SRAM/Quarq Spider Power Meters for $300. What a time to be alive...
However, my longest withstanding bike currently has 6000mi/10000km on it. Ultegra R8020 Mechanical 11sp. I can't recall any time I've ever missed shift or needed to adjust the barrel adjuster. Extremely reliable and quite frankly it shifts just quickly as eTap/Di2. Maybe 2 milliseconds slower but I bet in a blind test I probably wouldn't notice.
As mentioned above, Ultegra R8020 can be had cheap these days. Even Shimano's new 105 12sp Mechanical is on sale now too. Sure routing 4 cables internally is a pain. But if you plan to keep the bike for a long time I'm taking either of those groupsets over LTWOO eRX or WheelTop EDS every single day of the week.
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Their website is down right now so I'd guess they're probably working on updating it for the launch.
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Man I'd love to put this on my 2004 CAAD4 just to be that guy. I use this bike in crits so I don't want to drop 1000 on shifty bits, but $600... maybe
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I have high hopes that this will be more functional than the Ltwoo groups, but the lack of removable battery is an issue for me. When I moved to an electronic group i didnt think about it, but its been THE factor in me going Sram for my last few builds. Its just way easier to keep a spare battery or two than worry about charging. Well worth spending an extra 10-20min on more fiddley FD setup.
Electronic groupsets have been a game changer for all the bike builds and reviews I do. Especially with SRAM eTap. Literally cuts my bike building time from 3 days down to same day in some cases. During Christmas 2022 you could find SRAM Force D1 mini-groups (Levers, Calipers, Both Derailleurs, Centerline CLX-R Rotors, Batteries, and Charger) for $900 USD.
You can still get the $900 kit here: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=113939
Man I'd love to put this on my 2004 CAAD4 just to be that guy. I use this bike in crits so I don't want to drop 1000 on shifty bits, but $600... maybe
The cheapest AXS setup is either getting Rival levers on sale (target <$300 for left and right + brakes) or the Apex AXS exchange lever ($107-$112 list price) + Apex / S300 brake calipers ($39.99/ ea list) and brake bolts ($5.59 / set list) + Flat mount adapter ($19.99 ea) + a Rival Axs 36 / XPLR RD (seem to be plenty of new ones sub $200) + Battery set. Should be really close to $600 for all the hoses + shifty bits. Might be less.
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Unfortunately youre then stuck in sram's proprietary cassetes, chains, small front shift range, etc.
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Yeah, you don't want to be a beta tester like all those people with their faulty Ltwoo sets... Not for this kind of money...
That’s the thing tho… I can buy the EDS TX currently for $900-$1100 AUD, SRAM will cost me $1900-$2400AUD for a etap rival set.
The pricing is decent for me, I just gotta figure out if the risk is worth it.
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Advantage of erx/eds is not only the price, but customization. You can set number of gears, you can set up each gear individually. If, for some reason, you want to change cassette from 12 speed to 10 or 11, or vice versa, you just unscrew old components, install new, and do a few clicks in the app to tune your gear. With big brands you need to buy a new shifters and derailleurs.
So if erx/eds will be reliable as shimano/sram, and cost the same as 105/rival, it still be a good choice.
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Unfortunately youre then stuck in sram's proprietary cassetes, chains, small front shift range, etc.
You aren't though. The only thing is Sram chains are needed for Sram cassettes. You can definitely use non-Sram 16t gap 12 speed chainrings just fine. People are using Shimano and Campagnolo 12 spd cassettes with AXS as well.
Sram Force chains also are really cheap to run because they last a long time.
Chains, cassettes and chainrings are a place where the big brands have a huge leg up right now.
Advantage of erx/eds is not only the price, but customization. You can set number of gears, you can set up each gear individually. If, for some reason, you want to change cassette from 12 speed to 10 or 11, or vice versa, you just unscrew old components, install new, and do a few clicks in the app to tune your gear. With big brands you need to buy a new shifters and derailleurs.
So if erx/eds will be reliable as shimano/sram, and cost the same as 105/rival, it still be a good choice.
I believe competition is great and that without Ltwoo and Wheeltop the Apex and GX AXS wouldnt exist. If wheeltop could have retained the removable battery, an 1x13 electronic group using the Ekar cassettes would have been amazing. I have doubts though about how usable this product will be though after the lawyers had a go.
We also dont know if the drop bar levers can work with MTB RD, right? Could be a great mullet option.
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That’s the thing tho… I can buy the EDS TX currently for $900-$1100 AUD, SRAM will cost me $1900-$2400AUD for a etap rival set.
The pricing is decent for me, I just gotta figure out if the risk is worth it.
Yeah, it's totally different here in the EU. For a couple 100 more you get a decent and proven groupset...
Maybe just wait a couple of months until the first reviews are out?
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You aren't though. The only thing is Sram chains are needed for Sram cassettes. You can definitely use non-Sram 16t gap 12 speed chainrings just fine. People are using Shimano and Campagnolo 12 spd cassettes with AXS as well.
Sram Force chains also are really cheap to run because they last a long time.
Chains, cassettes and chainrings are a place where the big brands have a huge leg up right now.
I believe competition is great and that without Ltwoo and Wheeltop the Apex and GX AXS wouldnt exist. If wheeltop could have retained the removable battery, an 1x13 electronic group using the Ekar cassettes would have been amazing. I have doubts though about how usable this product will be though after the lawyers had a go.
We also dont know if the drop bar levers can work with MTB RD, right? Could be a great mullet option.
You're limited to a 50:11 max in that case and with sram's sensitive front derraileur going beyond 13t jump on the front will be dubious. Without the 10t cog you have to commit to either a high lowest gear or a low highest gear.
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The cheapest AXS setup is either getting Rival levers on sale (target <$300 for left and right + brakes) or the Apex AXS exchange lever ($107-$112 list price) + Apex / S300 brake calipers ($39.99/ ea list) and brake bolts ($5.59 / set list) + Flat mount adapter ($19.99 ea) + a Rival Axs 36 / XPLR RD (seem to be plenty of new ones sub $200) + Battery set. Should be really close to $600 for all the hoses + shifty bits. Might be less.
I need to get the force rim brake shifters, ($500) plus you leave out the crankset since I can't use the 11 speed I already have
If I went this route I would only need the 4 pieces and I can keep my 11 speed cassette/crankset
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You're limited to a 50:11 max in that case and with sram's sensitive front derraileur going beyond 13t jump on the front will be dubious. Without the 10t cog you have to commit to either a high lowest gear or a low highest gear.
I really dont get the aversion to the 10t. Its not a gear you use much when power efficiency matters, even when sprinting. I think that for most people a 48/32 with a 10-29 (Campagnolo) or 10-28(Sram) is a fantastic mix of range and tight sprockets. If you want more range the Sram 10-33 is brilliant with tight spacing on the lower sprockets and a nice bailout gear if you need it. If you are really strong a 50/34 big ring with a 10t is more gear than most riders can push
My bikes have worked fine with the 16t from Easton, Shimano and Praxis; but worth noting that even Shimano drops to 14t gaps with their rings used by pro riders as there is an inherent shift speed advantage. SRAM Fds are problematic since you really need to keep them straight during setup, which requires care even with their setup tool. Would be really interesting to see if Wheeltop did better with their design in terms of easier setup.
I need to get the force rim brake shifters, ($500) plus you leave out the crankset since I can't use the 11 speed I already have
If I went this route I would only need the 4 pieces and I can keep my 11 speed cassette/crankset
Sorry, i spaced on that being a rim brake bike. Feel like an idiot right now.
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The point is that in this case I don't mind the 10t cog, but to be able use a 10t cog you need srams casettes chains and freehubs
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d on that being a rim brake bike. Feel like an idiot right now.
i feel like an idiot trying to putting $1000 groupset on a bike from 2004 lol
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Shimano 105 R7100 Di2
Current price on aliexpress around 800 USD.
Can anybody send me a link for R7100 Di2 on Ali for $800 USD??
Tim
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Can anybody send me a link for R7100 Di2 on Ali for $800 USD??
Tim
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005735102271.html or just find anrancee cycling Store on AliExpress
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I just unboxed my EDS TX... build to follow...
https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset (https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset)
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I just unboxed my EDS TX... build to follow...
https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset (https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset)
First person to have their hands on a retail set to upload on YouTube - very brave!
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I just unboxed my EDS TX... build to follow...
https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset (https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset)
looking forward to this
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005735102271.html or just find anrancee cycling Store on AliExpress
i'm assuming nobody has had troubles with one of these groupsets? price looks delish.
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looking forward to this
Nothing ventured nothing gained/pained?! ;D
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I just unboxed my EDS TX... build to follow...
https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset (https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset)
nice thank you, just take care that sram and the eds include the battery, while shimano the battery is in the seatpost, so your total weight is not 100% accurate for shimano
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Well the Shimano weights are for references anyway but you have highlighted a very good point, thank you!
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Their website is down right now so I'd guess they're probably working on updating it for the launch.
It is live again, with the eds tx
https://wheeltop.com/ (https://wheeltop.com/)
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It is live again, with the eds tx
https://wheeltop.com/ (https://wheeltop.com/)
On Fire Fox, It looks like it is live, but when I click on the selection box, it locks up the selection feature, and the top pull down menu to select either MTB or road.
If I touch the "learn More" box details for the kit show up, but once on this page other features are locked up.
I have to close the page and start over again.
When I open using Chrome, everything works OK. (I try not to use Chrome these days after having a bunch of problems last year.)
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On Fire Fox, It looks like it is live, but when I click on the selection box, it locks up the selection feature, and the top pull down menu to select either MTB or road.
If I touch the "learn More" box details for the kit show up, but once on this page other features are locked up.
I have to close the page and start over again.
When I open using Chrome, everything works OK. (I try not to use Chrome these days after having a bunch of problems last year.)
for me it works well on firefox 121.0.1
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I just unboxed my EDS TX... build to follow...
https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset (https://taichocyclist.wixsite.com/mysite/post/unboxing-series-wheeltop-eds-tx-wireless-electronic-groupset)
The build is about to begin.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RzfPshUKSZooryHM6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/RzfPshUKSZooryHM6)
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The build is about to begin.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RzfPshUKSZooryHM6 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/RzfPshUKSZooryHM6)
Nice frame, it is the alpe d'huez, right?
Let us know about the shifting performance
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They have front derraileur trim, if it's auto trim they'll be getting a call from shimano lawyers this time
By?? The Sram eTap has wired blips, wouldn't Shimnao have patented satellite controls? The new Red AXS that is coming out soon also has an auxiliary button on the levers, isn't that also patented by Shimano....the Sram and Campagnolo derailleurs have auto trim, right?
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Ltwoo had auto trim and had to remove it after a warning from shimano
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Ltwoo had auto trim and had to remove it after a warning from shimano
true it was part of an update they did later on, after shimano complain. with all the patents sram and shimano have placed it is very difficult for the new groupset manufacturer to navigate.
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By?? The Sram eTap has wired blips, wouldn't Shimnao have patented satellite controls? The new Red AXS that is coming out soon also has an auxiliary button on the levers, isn't that also patented by Shimano....the Sram and Campagnolo derailleurs have auto trim, right?
The methods for managing "trim" different. Campagnolo uses a sensor to guide the trim behavior and while i think Sram played with autotrim or something that behaved like it on some beta releases, i think the firmware launched with the D2 Force groups does individual front shift profiles depending on the rear gear you are in and rely on the YAW geometry (which they also patented) to avoid needing trim the way Shimano does it.
I am sure patents exist on satellite shifters, but guessing they either weren't enforceable or were covered under expired patents from Mavic Zap or Mektronic.
The legal stuff around groups has really hobbled Ltwoo and Wheeltop. A far cry from a decade ago when Cherry was making GM and VW cars where you could swap body panels with the real thing.
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who else finds that a fixed battery is a very bad idea? if it dies for whatever reason during a trip or something, game over Mario :-*.
The solution from Shimano DI2 is a little better in the sense that it can be easily replaced, but still you cannot that easily bring a spare.
The solution from SRAM I find the best (I wish it was patent free so that Shimano and Wheeltop could just use it). Cheap and lightweight batteries with the same format for all parts which, in case of battery malfunction -or running out of juice-, you can just replace.
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who else finds that a fixed battery is a very bad idea? if it dies for whatever reason during a trip or something, game over Mario :-*.
The solution from Shimano DI2 is a little better in the sense that it can be easily replaced, but still you cannot that easily bring a spare.
The solution from SRAM I find the best (I wish it was patent free so that Shimano and Wheeltop could just use it). Cheap and lightweight batteries with the same format for all parts which, in case of battery malfunction -or running out of juice-, you can just replace.
Yeah, those small non-replaceable batteries are also a no-go for me.
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I actually like LTwoo's battery replaceable solution and user selection for 10/11/12 speed cassettes. If it wasn't for the issues with dead derailleurs, I probably would have bought the groupset already. I'll see what 2024 has to offer.
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they are quite active on their instagram account.
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I actually like LTwoo's battery replaceable solution and user selection for 10/11/12 speed cassettes. If it wasn't for the issues with dead derailleurs, I probably would have bought the groupset already. I'll see what 2024 has to offer.
I like that approach better, too. With LTWOO you could literally pop into a shop and buy a set of regular batteries and get going again. To me that’s a welcome deviation from the usual proprietary stuff that bike brands come up with. Regardless I’m super interested to see how the new Wheeltop groupset performs.
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who else finds that a fixed battery is a very bad idea? if it dies for whatever reason during a trip or something, game over Mario :-*.
All 4 of my EDS OX derailleurs have the removable batteries. To date, the removable batteries last a long time, over 600 miles of riding for me with lots of shifting.
OTOH: Weird things have been happening. Yesterday, I went out on a snow ride on a bike I haven't ridden it about a month. The bike was shifting OK, but I though that I would swap to a charged battery to be sure that the battery on the bike might be low on charge. I swapped to a supposedly fully charged battery. It wouldn't shift. No lights. Swapped to another battery. This battery didn't shift the derailleur either. Put the original one back one and rode, leaving the other 2 on their chargers. Then swapped one of the freshly charged battery onto the derailleur and it worked. Now I am wondering why 2 fully charged batteries were drained of power after sitting around on a shelf for a month after last being charged.
Regarding the fixed battery. I am sure you can put a routine in place where you use your Wheeltop app on your phone to check the % charge / # of shifts left. If you see the battery is below your charge comfort level, you can top it off.
I wonder too, if the magnetic charging cable charges the battery while the derailleur is in operation. One could secure the charge cable to the frame and use a battery bank to charge the battery while riding. (Anyone test this?)
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I’ve gone ahead and purchased a wheeltop EDS for my new gravel build, wish me luck.
Light carbon LCG073-D
Wheeltop
Zipp303S
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Everyone things on 'the moment the battery runs out of juice'. With die I mean dying for good, which sometimes happens with lithium batteries. Doing a long trip and it dying for real must suck.
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A quick video of my new TIME Alpe d'Huez 2023 built with the WheelTop EDS TX transmission groupset. Full review after a few rides and tests later.
https://youtu.be/AZ1Ikey23Gs?si=9MiEe96RIrcbexJQ (https://youtu.be/AZ1Ikey23Gs?si=9MiEe96RIrcbexJQ)
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what setup did you use? Chains, cranks cassette?
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what setup did you use? Chains, cranks cassette?
Crankarms - Shimano R8100 Ultegra 12 speed w/Stages G3 left arm
Chainring - Stone 50T/34T Compact Ratio
Cassette - Sunshine SL 11T-32T 12-Speeds (soon to be replaced with 11T-30T Zitto 12-Speeds Black)
Chain - SUMC 12 Speed SL hollow pin and joint (Rainbow color)
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A quick video of my new TIME Alpe d'Huez 2023 built with the WheelTop EDS TX transmission groupset. Full review after a few rides and tests later.
https://youtu.be/AZ1Ikey23Gs?si=9MiEe96RIrcbexJQ (https://youtu.be/AZ1Ikey23Gs?si=9MiEe96RIrcbexJQ)
Damn, that's some crisp shifting 8)
Beautiful bike too!
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Do you have auto trimming on the FD? I see it is moving a little when you go up and down on the cog.
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Do you have auto trimming on the FD? I see it is moving a little when you go up and down on the cog.
Seems like it but not sure if this in anyway may infringe Shimano's patent but no issues with shifting in casual mode.
However in casual mode, the system seems to auto prevent shifting last 2 gears on either sides of the chainring to prevent cross-chaining; ie. Lager ring cannot last 2 biggest gears while small ring cannot use the front 2 smallest.
There is a Racing Mode which I believe shifts faster without the gear lock. That will also use up more power so more tests shall reveal it all.
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Damn, that's some crisp shifting 8)
Beautiful bike too!
Thank you. I am pretty fussy about color coordination.
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Any idea when an Aliexpress store or Wheel Top will be shipping to the USA?
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https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur
Product page has been updated with some specs and stuff, still not selling and the prices seem like placeholders still. Not sure those reviews are entirely real either.
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I wrote ExAid Cycling Store and asked if they could send a hydraulic version kit to the US. They stated they could as soon as the product becomes available.
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Do they not have a timeframe?
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Do they not have a timeframe?
I asked when, no response yet.
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It looks like the battery (at least the rear one) is bolted on with two hex bolts. So maybe there will be a possibility to replace the battery in an emergence?
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The batteries are replaceable, not quick-swappable. There's no reason you couldn't swap them like sram, you just need tools, an extra battery and a bit more time. I doubt they will just be available for sale like sram though.
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Hi sir, your Time ADH looks so sexy and it's a dream bike. Just a question, any reason why you pick Wheeltop EDS over Ltwoo ERX for groupset selecyion?
Thank you. I am pretty fussy about color coordination.
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Hey Team,
Sorry I am currently will with COVID from unknown source grrr~!
The batteries are definitely replaceable but like everyone, we need to find a source else its back to manufacturer WheelTop. The battery is screwed against the derailleurs so some work is needed to have them removed.
I have seen the Aliexpress link selling the EDS TX online. They seem to deliver to many states but I cannot tell if all are there since I am a "Singaporean", Senator Tom.
BTW, first ride month review is out but done while I am ill.. so forgive me on the quality as I can barely talk with a sore toad throat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC4QdiI3CcY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC4QdiI3CcY)
Not sure if you can see my video link clearly but search for Taicho Cyclist Channel and you can see the video if the hyperlink in my post is somehow blocked.
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Just saw this on AliEx and they appear to ship to the US:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806405285096.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806405285096.html)
Or you can buy a Twitter carbon bike equipped with the EDS TX:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806230191114.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806230191114.html)
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Just saw this on AliEx and they appear to ship to the US:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806405285096.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806405285096.html)
Very bad feedback score... ???
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Thx for the vid, good to know it's not slop at least. Got a couple questions.
How far forward can the pulley arm bend? All footage I've seen has it still pointing pretty downward when in big-big, normally you'd expect it to be a bit closer to level. Looks that this would require a longer chain than usual as well.
Is it possible to use a front chainring that is bigger than 50t? The official specs say 50 max. I'd hope that's just a conservative estimation and that it is mechanically possible to fit at least a 54t.
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Very bad feedback score... ???
Not entirely bad but appears to be getting a mixed bag for customer experience. So much so like spinning The Wheel of Fortune.
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Thx for the vid, good to know it's not slop at least. Got a couple questions.
How far forward can the pulley arm bend? All footage I've seen has it still pointing pretty downward when in big-big, normally you'd expect it to be a bit closer to level. Looks that this would require a longer chain than usual as well.
Is it possible to use a front chainring that is bigger than 50t? The official specs say 50 max. I'd hope that's just a conservative estimation and that it is mechanically possible to fit at least a 54t.
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/hHqQnrSQxqCHwcjU6)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hHqQnrSQxqCHwcjU6
Its illogical to create a new technological product and be limited mechanically. I have sent WheelTop an enquiry to get this sorted out.
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(https://photos.app.goo.gl/hHqQnrSQxqCHwcjU6)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hHqQnrSQxqCHwcjU6
Its illogical to create a new technological product and be limited mechanically. I have sent WheelTop an enquiry to get this sorted out.
Revision number 1 incoming
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I have another new finding to share about the EDS TX.
Today, I was clearing up my cabinets when I found an unsed Magene twin connector powermeter charging cable. The design looked sinisterly similar to the EDS TX singular head cable and I decided to plug them on both derailleurs with a leap of faith (similar to the time when I punched buy on TaoBao :P )
https://www.instagram.com/p/C3xsEuJyA_L/
Guess what!? It worked and the derailleurs are charged up full again. Guess I got lucky again with the new discovery. Now I can charge them at the same time with one cableset. Happy days. ;D
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As someone with a p505 base thats nice to see
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I looked at the replies on wheeltop page and somebody actually successfuly tested it with a 55t chainring and 42t cassete which is honestly really awesome to see. Now if only they had satellite/sprint shifters...
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I have another new finding to share about the EDS TX.
Today, I was clearing up my cabinets when I found an unsed Magene twin connector powermeter charging cable. The design looked sinisterly similar to the EDS TX singular head cable and I decided to plug them on both derailleurs with a leap of faith (similar to the time when I punched buy on TaoBao :P )
https://www.instagram.com/p/C3xsEuJyA_L/
Guess what!? It worked and the derailleurs are charged up full again. Guess I got lucky again with the new discovery. Now I can charge them at the same time with one cableset. Happy days. ;D
Are you in a position to compare the size of the brifters to Shimano ones? I must say this group is beginning to look very nice.
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I looked at the replies on wheeltop page and somebody actually successfuly tested it with a 55t chainring and 42t cassete which is honestly really awesome to see. Now if only they had satellite/sprint shifters...
They officially replied me that it supported up to 53T and I also pointed that they need to update the website or stand to lose more sales from this error. Good to know there are real use cases to debunk the fear.
Update: They have confirmed that 54T can be supported based on dealer update and user feedbacks. At least they are listening and have also accepted my recommendation to update their website. Happy days ahead.
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Are you in a position to compare the size of the brifters to Shimano ones? I must say this group is beginning to look very nice.
Absolutely easy to compare the size of the EDS shifters to Ultegra R8150 as I have both systems. For your information, my palm size is considered large for Asian (Medium-Large Caucasian?)
The EDS aesthetically and physically is smaller. I can get a good hand wrap around the hoods with 4 fingers space on the underside.
The Ultegra R8150 is bulkier due to the crested hoods for Di2 shift buttons on the top and has less underside space for only 3 fingers to wrap underneath.
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If you are buying the EDS TX drivetrain, I will advise buying a set of silicone shifter-end tip caps. The shifters arc outwards so the chances of getting it scraped is higher. Those inexpensive Aliexpress Shifter end caps will save you some grief when parking or if the bike tilt over at some point. ;D
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Absolutely easy to compare the size of the EDS shifters to Ultegra R8150 as I have both systems. For your information, my palm size is considered large for Asian (Medium-Large Caucasian?)
The EDS aesthetically and physically is smaller. I can get a good hand wrap around the hoods with 4 fingers space on the underside.
The Ultegra R8150 is bulkier due to the crested hoods for Di2 shift buttons on the top and has less underside space for only 3 fingers to wrap underneath.
Ah, another plus for this groupset. I have rather small hands so smaller is better.
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Have they said what dealers / users have tested as max for cassette? Anyone pushed it to 11/40?
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Have they said what dealers / users have tested as max for cassette? Anyone pushed it to 11/40?
In the reviews on the wheeltop.com product page
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I’m finally catching up to this thread—those claimed specs are amazing—if true, this group set is lighter than SRAM red AXS for equivalent parts.
The availability of a rim brake version is really nice too. I can see some old frames getting resurrected with electronic shifting.
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Absolutely easy to compare the size of the EDS shifters to Ultegra R8150 as I have both systems. For your information, my palm size is considered large for Asian (Medium-Large Caucasian?)
The EDS aesthetically and physically is smaller. I can get a good hand wrap around the hoods with 4 fingers space on the underside.
The Ultegra R8150 is bulkier due to the crested hoods for Di2 shift buttons on the top and has less underside space for only 3 fingers to wrap underneath.
That is very interesting to read. The 8150 ultegra STI grew much larger compared to the 2x11 di2 STI. Maybe for large hands this is an improvement, but for me ... not.
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The more I look into this groupset the more I'm impressed. I like that they're solely focused on electronic groupsets and nothing else. Also their website seems better suited attracting an international audience. My only concern is long term support and access to parts.
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The more I look into this groupset the more I'm impressed. I like that they're solely focused on electronic groupsets and nothing else. Also their website seems better suited attracting an international audience. My only concern is long term support and access to parts.
Well only one way to find that out isn't it? Join me in the leap of faith lol ;D
Frankly I am impressed that they actually replied to my message within the same day or less about the chainring spec issue. That aside, warranty is entirely a different monster. If your local area has no warranty, I believe a courier back to WheelTop could be necessary.
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I have the opportunity to take the new TIME bike out for my club ride. So during a break, I took a quick clip to show viewers the shifting of the EDS TX.
The test began with the big chainring shifting single gears upwards, followed by the downshift. Next I performed a shift hold upwards and downwards in a single press action resectively.
The same pattern is repeated for the small chainring BUT the system will automatically move the chain up from smallest to 3rd cog. This seems like the automatic anti-cross chain logic only in the small chainring. Otherwise the upshifts and downshifts, whether individually or press hold are very smooth.
https:/ /youtu. be / 24Eh-sQVfpQ
I really enjoyed using the EDS TX from WheelTop for its crisp shifting.
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I have the opportunity to take the new TIME bike out for my club ride. So during a break, I took a quick clip to show viewers the shifting of the EDS TX.
The test began with the big chainring shifting single gears upwards, followed by the downshift. Next I performed a shift hold upwards and downwards in a single press action resectively.
The same pattern is repeated for the small chainring BUT the system will automatically move the chain up from smallest to 3rd cog. This seems like the automatic anti-cross chain logic only in the small chainring. Otherwise the upshifts and downshifts, whether individually or press hold are very smooth.
https:/ /youtu. be / 24Eh-sQVfpQ
I really enjoyed using the EDS TX from WheelTop for its crisp shifting.
It would be more interesting to see it shifting under load ... I.E. with you on the bike and more than 200 watts being applied. Everything looks good under no torque in the bike stand.
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It would be more interesting to see it shifting under load ... I.E. with you on the bike and more than 200 watts being applied. Everything looks good under no torque in the bike stand.
I don't have that video yet other than my other short ones. Front D shifting is da bomb. Rear mech needs to be precisely calibrated - not really missed a shift so far for 3 rides. More test needed.
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I am thinking about using this groupset on an older Tarmac rim brake frame. I’d like to wait until summer to hear some longer term reports. Seeing how the Ltwoo ERX groupset initially priced around 6-700.00 now you can find it on Aliexpress for 4-450.00. (w/o batteries). I’m curious to see if the EDX comes down in price as Wheeltop increases production.
Taicho, thanks for all the honest feedback!
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It's er9 that's under 500€ er9 is still around 600+ and it's possible these price reductions are to get as many out the door before they release a final, hopefully fixed, product.
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Gotcha. I think I read that somewhere but part of me was hopeful that the groupsets would come down around the 500.00 mark.
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In the EU you can get the Rival AXS shifters, FD, RD and 2 batteries with charger for about 850€. So it will have to be considerably cheaper than that before I would take the risk of being without a bike for a month or so because something fails and I can't get a spare part...
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That’s my line of thinking too. 2 weeks ago I priced out individual parts for a 12spd Ultegra mini group (w/o crankset, chain or cassette) at about 1000.00. That was looking across several different websites and looking for sales.
On Aliexpress I found 105 Di2 for 8-850.00
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That’s my line of thinking too. 2 weeks ago I priced out individual parts for a 12spd Ultegra mini group (w/o crankset, chain or cassette) at about 1000.00. That was looking across several different websites and looking for sales.
On Aliexpress I found 105 Di2 for 8-850.00
Agree. I'm seeing around $900 USD for a complete 105 di2 groupset shipped. I really cant see the value proposition for EDS road at the current stated price of about $700 EUR. Essentially equal in price since im sure you could sell the 105 crank and cassette locally for $150-200. There would only be a few reasons i can see for buying it: Wanting to use it on a 10/11/13 speed cassette, looking for lighter weight, want true wireless, or want for rim brake.
I was initially thinking about getting this after longer term reviews came in this summer/fall but only if the cost comes down to about $500USD. Any higher then that and I will go with 105 di2 after this cycling season
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I asked wheeltop about this (early March 2024) and they said that due to distribution and patent issues the EDS TX group is currently only available in Europe. There's a list of places they ship to, but not the United States or Canada at the moment.
I'm trying to retrofit an electronic system onto a rim-brake frame with Shimano cassette so if I could get it this groupset would be a perfect solution for me.
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Unfortunate that they are unable to sell to Canada. I was looking forward to getting my hands on a set.
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4PYwLTLRho/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
He's apparently also got an electronic group from sensah in testing
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If I buy one I'll probably wait for the alu version. Not worth paying for carbon one at launch prices imo
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Less than $1300 USD w/free shipping with a Wheeltop EDS TX equipped carbon bike seems like a pretty good deal. Is there any bikes that are 105 Di2 or SRAM AXS for that price point?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806309666933.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806309666933.html)
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Does anyone know if this type of material is cheaper in Malaysia? I am going there in a couple of months and was thinking about bringing a groups from there if it was much cheaper.
Because of a potential tax free or so. Either this or an ltwoo er9
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https://cyclistation.com/wheeltop/
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I ordered the Wheeltop EDS TX hydraulic carbon kit today during the Aliexpress Anniversary sale. With coupon, coins, and discounts, paid $623 USD. Last time I looked the EZreal Outdoor Store has 5 kits left. (10 were listed when I purchased mine this morning.)
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Came so close to pulling the trigger on one of those from the same retailer. I will wait till mid-summer or early fall and pick one of the rim brake sets up after there are more end user reviews.
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Does anyone know, which type of needles and olive the EDS TX uses? Their website says that these parts are proprietary, but on video, they look very similar to sram or magura.
Or if they are really incompatible with already existed models, where can I get a spare? A quick search on aliexpress showed nothing.
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WheelTop EDS TX alloy version appears to be available on AliExpress at a lower price point:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html)
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WheelTop EDS TX alloy version appears to be available on AliExpress at a lower price point:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html)
Very nice, but just 30$ less is imho not really a lower price point, when you take in consideration that the LTWOO alloy to carbon gap is at around 130$
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Came so close to pulling the trigger on one of those from the same retailer. I will wait till mid-summer or early fall and pick one of the rim brake sets up after there are more end user reviews.
That's my strategy too - once a few more are in end users' hands and there's some real-world feedback I might consider the rim brake version on a spare bike.
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Delays on the aluminium rim-brake version to July 2024:
https://twitter.com/wheeltopjapan/status/1770967843984773405
[Notice and Apology of Delivery Delay]
There will be a delay in the delivery of the aluminum grade TX-RA6100, which is compatible with wire pull brakes, in the EDS TX series.
▼ Applicable products
TX-RA6100
▼ Scheduled release date
July 2024
▼ Reason for delay: Due to production adjustments due to the sudden increase in demand for EDS worldwide.
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I had a crash 2 weeks ago when my front tire tube blew in a turning maneouvre which resulted in a slide out and threw me off the bike. The EDS survived with some scratches to the shifter body, lever blades are intact. I used 600 sandpaper to file out the rough edges and a black permanent marker sealed the deal. Now it looks inconspicuous unless up close.
The most important thing is the shifting is still bang on for my 50/34 - 11/30 set up. This EDS TX is indeed tough.
https://youtu. be/eLID1SvW-9Q
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WheelTop EDS TX alloy version appears to be available on AliExpress at a lower price point:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html)
Thanks. Pulled the trigger on the Alu with $80 off coupon from AliExpress anniversary sale. $80 off made it too hard to pass up. If Carbon was in stock I would have opted for that.
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Wheeltop is already present in local shows in JPN and they made their way into larger shops like Uemura cycling.
https://uemura-cycle.com/products/list.php?mode=search&search_category_id=47&search_maker_id=583
EDS TX-RA7000 for 128700 JPY
https://uemura-cycle.com/products/detail.php?product_id=91363
A 105 Di2 R7170 as full group is 170000JPY, while a mechanical 105 92000JPY
https://uemura-cycle.com/products/detail.php?product_id=84500
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Anyone knows how the Wheeltop EDS TX compares to the recently released L-TWOO eRX electronic groupset? I've seen some quality issues with the L-Twoo from the GCN Performance and TraceVelo Youtube channels. I assume the Wheeltop unit will be similar given how new it is to the market.
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All 4 of my EDS OX derailleurs have the removable batteries. To date, the removable batteries last a long time, over 600 miles of riding for me with lots of shifting.
OTOH: Weird things have been happening. Yesterday, I went out on a snow ride on a bike I haven't ridden it about a month. The bike was shifting OK, but I though that I would swap to a charged battery to be sure that the battery on the bike might be low on charge. I swapped to a supposedly fully charged battery. It wouldn't shift. No lights. Swapped to another battery. This battery didn't shift the derailleur either. Put the original one back one and rode, leaving the other 2 on their chargers. Then swapped one of the freshly charged battery onto the derailleur and it worked. Now I am wondering why 2 fully charged batteries were drained of power after sitting around on a shelf for a month after last being charged.
Regarding the fixed battery. I am sure you can put a routine in place where you use your Wheeltop app on your phone to check the % charge / # of shifts left. If you see the battery is below your charge comfort level, you can top it off.
I wonder too, if the magnetic charging cable charges the battery while the derailleur is in operation. One could secure the charge cable to the frame and use a battery bank to charge the battery while riding. (Anyone test this?)
Issue for me would be that batteries eventually die which would render the whole derailleur useless. I'm surprised nobody has used something like a 18650 cylinder battery. Slap a waterproof case in the down tube and put a charge port on the derailleur. Battery (or batteries) die, you go grab another one on Amazon or whatever. This is a deal breaker for me
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Issue for me would be that batteries eventually die which would render the whole derailleur useless. I'm surprised nobody has used something like a 18650 cylinder battery. Slap a waterproof case in the down tube and put a charge port on the derailleur. Battery (or batteries) die, you go grab another one on Amazon or whatever. This is a deal breaker for me
This is exactly what LTWOO does?
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Batterries are replaceable
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Issue for me would be that batteries eventually die which would render the whole derailleur useless.
From my perspective, worrying about a dead battery is a non-issue.
1. The fixed batteries on the new generation EDS derailleurs can be removed and replaced.
2. When the battery pack fails, purchase a replacement. (As long as the derailleur/s are for sale, and perhaps for many years after production stops, a replacement battery pack will be available.)
3. For other products that I have purchased, where I could no longer get a replacement battery pack, I have carefully opened the battery pack. In in every case, the battery pack used common and readily available rechargeable battery sizes.
4. If by chance, I haven't worn out the mechanical part of the derailleur by the time I can't get a replacement battery, then I would make my own battery pack to keep the the derailleur running.
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https://youtu.be/dWOPmujnCKY
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He suggests that wheeltop might have bought(?) the patent licenses from shimano for auto-trim, flatmount brake caliper, and I think also the battery LED indicator that ltwoo had to cover (ridiculous!). I hope that is not the reason for the "steep"(er) price.
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I doubt they did, these patents are probably the reason they're not selling in the usa
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Regardless of patents, it should be easy enough to buy it from 3rd party resellers on AliExpress. I already see one.
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It is interesting to note that SRAMs original wireless shifting patent .: US 2014/0102237 A1, expires on April 17th 2024. Other Patents associated with electronic controller shifters filed by Shimano and SRAM have also been expiring. I haven't read through all of SRAM's more recent patents, but what often happens is that companies file new claims to try to extend existing patents that are running out in order to try to block other competitors from using designs that are no longer patent protected. It is possible that Wheeltop has a viable design that is legal and does not impinge on any current patents. This might be why the timing of their OX and TX systems have been just recently released. Perhaps they will start selling in the USA once a few more of the patents they infringe opon expire.
Keep in mind that utility patents are good for 15 years, and design patents 20 years here in the USA.
Bluetooth and ANT communication standards are now over 20 years old, so Wheeltop can use these standards for a wireless method for their wireless communications. Wheeltop's challenge is how to minimize battery usage, (sleep and wake up signals) that were in SRAM's wireless patent that expires in April.
Edit: I believe that a "fixed battery" on a derailleur patent has expired too. But a removable battery is still covered under a newer SRAM patent.
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Video fro GC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtqJ3u0aqW0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtqJ3u0aqW0)
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Now it seems WheelTop is upping their game with reviews through Trace Velo and GC Performance. People will tend to listen to these influencers on Youtube.
I tried my best to bring up the product at the start of my journey. Guess its over to these big hitters now ;)
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I was an early adopter of Micro Shift when they first showed their products at Interbike. How many years has it taken Microshift to become mainstream in the USA? 15 years?
I see a similar path for WheelTop. Unless WheelTop is able to get the backing of one of the 5 largest bicycle companies, they will have a long slow growth curve ahead of them. Despite "Influencers" reviewing the EDS TX, there will be a long road for them to travel before they make any sales impact on the big boys. We, who are part of Chinertown are on the fringe of component testing and consumption. Last time I checked, perhaps 5+% max (very generous estimate) of bicyclists spec and assembly their own bicycles. Seeing "Twitter" brand of bicycles using WheelTop kits is probably the best approach they can take.
I have been running my EDS OX system on one bike for over a year now and love it! I put EDS OX on 2 more bikes and to date they all work fantastic!
I can't wait for my EDS TX disc order to arrive. I am sure it will be every bid as good, or better, than the EDS OX.
Here in the USA, new Chinese bicycle products have to fight the same old battle.
- Yuck, It is made in China
- Made in china will be poor quality and fail quickly unless quality is controlled by one of the main bicycle companies.
- How and where do I get it serviced?
- Is there a warranty? Wait, it costs more to send it back to China than it cost new even if the warranty is good.
- On and on go the excuses not to purchase independent Chinese products.
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I was an early adopter of Micro Shift when they first showed their products at Interbike. How many years has it taken Microshift to become mainstream in the USA? 15 years?
I see a similar path for WheelTop. Unless WheelTop is able to get the backing of one of the 5 largest bicycle companies, they will have a long slow growth curve ahead of them. Despite "Influencers" reviewing the EDS TX, there will be a long road for them to travel before they make any sales impact on the big boys. We, who are part of Chinertown are on the fringe of component testing and consumption. Last time I checked, perhaps 5+% max (very generous estimate) of bicyclists spec and assembly their own bicycles. Seeing "Twitter" brand of bicycles using WheelTop kits is probably the best approach they can take.
I have been running my EDS OX system on one bike for over a year now and love it! I put EDS OX on 2 more bikes and to date they all work fantastic!
I can't wait for my EDS TX disc order to arrive. I am sure it will be every bid as good, or better, than the EDS OX.
Here in the USA, new Chinese bicycle products have to fight the same old battle.
- Yuck, It is made in China
- Made in china will be poor quality and fail quickly unless quality is controlled by one of the main bicycle companies.
- How and where do I get it serviced?
- Is there a warranty? Wait, it costs more to send it back to China than it cost new even if the warranty is good.
- On and on go the excuses not to purchase independent Chinese products.
The last 3 questions are legitimate, how do you overcome them?
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I think they are OK with being fringe as long as they can make some money. Seems like Chinertown type brands don't need OEM volume to stay in business.
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The last 3 questions are legitimate, how do you overcome them?
You DIY and presume there is no warranty like on most Aliexpress stuff...
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This reminds me of the book factfulness by Hans Rosling.
China used to make garbage using child labor. But that was decades ago. Most people (and I mean the vast majority of people) pretty much still assume it's true to this day. Except it isn't. China has long moved forward. In fact their industrial policy has been extremely successful. They also ran out of children, mostly, the population is now ageing AND in absolute decline, which is pushing costs up a lot.
Just looking at bikes, they've been OEM manufacturers for pretty much everything for eons, and they started to innovate, with carbon spokes for example. If you want custom built super wide rims with carbon spokes, you can get them from at least 5 chinese factories, but not from Zipp, and Campagnolo has become a running joke more than anything. The software on LTWOO groupsets is better than Shimano Sram (ability to change the number of gears, gear protection). I've helped develop a new gravel frame, it took them weeks to produce a mold and a prototype for me to ride. And this year you can buy a frame from lightcarbon that weighs 910g, which is the same weight as a Look 795 blade RS 2024... In fact Look's fork is heavier by 35g...
So if it took 15y for a Chinese brand to go from A to B doesnt mean it will take them another 15y to go from B to C. Things tend to accelerate.
It's tragic in a way, because in the west we barely make stuff anymore, everybody's become a life coach or a therapist (there's also a nice book on "bullshit jobs"), everybody's become super expensive with zero real skills. Applied to Cycling, it's the farce of "paying for R&D" which really means inflated staff doing god knows what, and paying for pro cycling teams.
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Couldn't have said it better
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I don't think the question is around the quality of Chinese bike parts; anyone who knows anything about how and where high end bikes are made already knows this.
The hurdle is in the purchasing process. Most people don't want to go on an Aliexpress wild goose chase w/no warranty coverage. Even more streamlined direct to consumer stuff like Winspace and Yoeleo is still kind of fringe. So if the Chinese want to really have a presence in the mainstream Western bike market they need brick and mortar stores with no nonsense warranty coverage. That would really accelerate the price war with the major brands though, especially if the Chinese stuff is in the same stores.
But again I feel like Chinese brands are OK with their current direct to consumer model. They pass on the risk to brands they sell to as OEMs as well as to us consumers. Look at all the pain and agony the Western brands are going through right now.
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I dont buy my bikes on aliexpress and i've had several warranty issues / goodwill instances when my counterparts did the right thing. I've had 2 or 3 warranty / crash claims with Farsports, i've had velobuild send me their updated C rings free of charge, i've received wheels that were centerlock after ordering 6 bolt and received adaptors free of charge. I've had a derailleur replaced free of charge & received a bunch of freebies.
Long story short, there's more to dealing with chinese counterparts than aliexpress & assuming no warranty coverage. I'm the highest tier on aliexpress and usually (not always) they are helpful. I had a bad experience with Alibaba, they clearly gave no F about me, that was disappointing, but i'm not going to cry about it, after all they were sticking to their T&Cs.
In fact 2 weeks ago i ordered via aliexpress a replacement crank arm for cheap. I shouldn't have paid for it, but this seller is a dick and i'll do my best not to work with them again. Either way it should save my ass for cheap enough.
I guess my point is: build relationships with sellers you learn to trust. It's so much easier than it used to be to have clear discussions with them. Either they speak decent english now, or they use translation software that actually works. It used to be an uphill battle to make yourself understood. Now i feel i can ask very detailed questions and i usually get spot on answers.
Last: the vast majority of people still assume that if it's unbranded and chinese, it's poor quality. I have friends who to this day will not use an unbranded chinese bike out of fear of death. Sadly (?), some of them are actually highly educated people with engineering degrees placing them in the 0.01% of the population. Others are just Luddites. Which ties back to Factfulness, in fact.
Most of this forum exists to navigate issues around oval holes, unfaced brake mount surfaces, out of tolerance interfaces, and structural integrity of parts. Together, usually referred to as QC. Aka, quality... Aka, who to order from to minimize the chances of ordering a dud.
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I once had an Xcadey PM die on me shortly after arrival. I spoke to the seller on aliexpress, made prove with videos and pictures. He sent me a new one without costs.
Another time I've had a set of replica wheels being held at customs, one of the biggest sellers on aliexpress send me another pair.
Not all those sellers are bad but indeed build relations with people and be gentle with them.
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In my large US city, I go on a few group rides and barely anyone builds their own bikes. I don't even think road cycling is growing in the US. Who wants to see a bunch of dentists doing a crit race around a business park? Also young people can't afford any of the mainstream bikes and/or associated gear. They have other things to worry about like cost of living! I was covering a fairly large road bike event a month ago and the majority of riders were in the older demographic with disposable income. Those people have better things to do instead of learning bike maintenance and will just pay an LBS to do the work.
I think LTwoo and Wheeltop will see more growth marketing in Asia. Road cycling appears to be growing there and it's probably why Shimano has been expanding factories especially in SE Asia.
https://www.agenzianova.com/en/news/Shimano-opens-a-factory-in-Singapore-to-increase-sales-in-South-East-Asia (https://www.agenzianova.com/en/news/Shimano-opens-a-factory-in-Singapore-to-increase-sales-in-South-East-Asia)
The only potential growth I see in the US market is gravel. I could see LTwoo EGR doing well and they'd be smart to equip a few riders at events like UNBOUND gravel. If Wheeltop did a gravel groupset I think they could compete well against SRAM AXS XPLR.
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I dont buy my bikes on aliexpress and i've had several warranty issues / goodwill instances when my counterparts did the right thing. I've had 2 or 3 warranty / crash claims with Farsports, i've had velobuild send me their updated C rings free of charge, i've received wheels that were centerlock after ordering 6 bolt and received adaptors free of charge. I've had a derailleur replaced free of charge & received a bunch of freebies.
Long story short, there's more to dealing with chinese counterparts than aliexpress & assuming no warranty coverage. I'm the highest tier on aliexpress and usually (not always) they are helpful. I had a bad experience with Alibaba, they clearly gave no F about me, that was disappointing, but i'm not going to cry about it, after all they were sticking to their T&Cs.
In fact 2 weeks ago i ordered via aliexpress a replacement crank arm for cheap. I shouldn't have paid for it, but this seller is a dick and i'll do my best not to work with them again. Either way it should save my ass for cheap enough.
I guess my point is: build relationships with sellers you learn to trust. It's so much easier than it used to be to have clear discussions with them. Either they speak decent english now, or they use translation software that actually works. It used to be an uphill battle to make yourself understood. Now i feel i can ask very detailed questions and i usually get spot on answers.
Last: the vast majority of people still assume that if it's unbranded and chinese, it's poor quality. I have friends who to this day will not use an unbranded chinese bike out of fear of death. Sadly (?), some of them are actually highly educated people with engineering degrees placing them in the 0.01% of the population. Others are just Luddites. Which ties back to Factfulness, in fact.
Most of this forum exists to navigate issues around oval holes, unfaced brake mount surfaces, out of tolerance interfaces, and structural integrity of parts. Together, usually referred to as QC. Aka, quality... Aka, who to order from to minimize the chances of ordering a dud.
You're still kind of missing my point. Most people don't want to do all this research and build relationships with online vendors and all that. They just want to see and touch a bike, buy it and ride it. So if you want people to get more familiar and comfortable with Chinese brands, Chinese brands have to sell the same way as the big boys.
Personally I am not bothered if someone who knows nothing about Chinese brands thinks they are low quality death traps. It's not my job to educate strangers. I build bikes for myself, not to impress and educate random people.
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I asked wheeltop about this (early March 2024) and they said that due to distribution and patent issues the EDS TX group is currently only available in Europe. There's a list of places they ship to, but not the United States or Canada at the moment.
I'm trying to retrofit an electronic system onto a rim-brake frame with Shimano cassette so if I could get it this groupset would be a perfect solution for me.
I bought a set (rim brake) from...elsewhere, since Wheeltop doesn't sell to where I am. I have two edx ox sets (older, removable batteries) that have seen some abuse off road and that recommended eds tx to me. I don't worry too much about being able to return parts -- in over 30 years of cycling, the stuff I've had fail has been less "I need to return it to get it warrantied and back on the bike" and more "this has failed in a way that reveals it sucks and I don't want it anymore". But to me that's the downside: no way is anyone servicing this stuff, and I had to order from a place that seemed legit but who knows. And, you have to work through figuring it out for yourself. I used this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWOPmujnCKY
Have used various MTB grouops, Shimano (Ultegra and DA, including Di2, Campy (couple generations of mechanical Chorus), and Sram (lately Force wireless, mech groups before that). Using those as a reference, this group feels solid and well made. The shifting is snappy, spot on. It's probably not quite as fast as Di2 but rear is faster than Force. Front shifting puts SRAM to shame and is much easier than SRAM to set up besides (I'm running Ultegra cassette, chain, cranks). Setup is easy (basically the video above, plus limit screws). The hoods are well shaped and offer some comfortable hand positions. Battery sat around for a week, fiddled around for a long time installing/tuning/test riding, then went for a 3.5 hour ride and it reports 95% remaining in front and 80% remaining in rear. I swapped the buttons for rear shifting because it felt more correct to have the big paddle shift to a harder gear (SRAM righthand functionality I'm used to) and this was easily done on the road with the app. Buttons are a little stiffer than SRAM or Shimano but worked well enough in long-finger gloves.
So far so good. I'm hoping this gets me a few more years on a frame/fork/wheels that are fine, just a little out of date.
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Thanks for the feedback. I’m going to be a little more patient but I did find an online retailer that will ship to my country for about 650.00 for the rim brake set. I have an older Tarmac that I use for travel and training. It works perfectly fine with R7000 but I would love to update it to EDS just as an exercise in pure vanity…
At 650.00 for a rim brake upgrade, I’m hesitant until there are more end user reviews. If it was in the 500.00 range I probably would have already bought it.
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Wait a few months for aluiminium rim brake version to come out. They delayed it to adjust the manufacturing processes because demand was higher than expected
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My EDS TX order arrived today. 4 days later than the guaranteed delivery date. (I received a link to the 1 dollar coupon. As usual there is an error trying to actually collect the coupon.) The items in the 2 boxes are very well packaged. I can't wait to start playing with the derailleurs. I am charging the derailleur batteries.
I downloaded the new EDS APP, installed it and opened it. I looks just like my old App and my other 4 EDS OX derailleurs show up.
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Rim brake versions are starting to show on AliExpress again. Yesterday I almost bought one, had in my cart with taxes and free shipping to the US. Held off, went back today and now both sellers will no longer ship to the US…
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Yeah noticed that too. All in all just two stores selling EDS TX and they won't (now) ship to the states.
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I must be lucky/special.
Has anyone written the 2 sellers and asked why they can't/wont sell to customers in the USA? Since one of them sold one to me, perhaps they can be convinced to ship to the USA.
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About the supposed 40T clearance, has someone tried and done it firsthand or is it just a rumor now?
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I must be lucky/special.
Has anyone written the 2 sellers and asked why they can't/wont sell to customers in the USA? Since one of them sold one to me, perhaps they can be convinced to ship to the USA.
Based on youtube videos i've seen, L-TWOO has removed features that were patent pending. The auto trim is one that comes to mind. But Wheeltop seems to be much more reckless about that (I think with Sram related features especially, I think?). I'm not interested in that group so havent been paying close attention, but that's the impression i got. And the US is the land of lawsuits. And US cyclists keep complaining that road cycling is dying there, vs Asia is on the rise, and Europe is its birth place. And Sram is affordable in the US, while it's not in Europe.
So that's my 5 cents.
What i dont understand is why these channels are touting wheeltop electronic as the di2 killer when it's worse than l-twoo's erx in more ways than 1 (worse app, no garmin integration just to name two), and the er9/erx just works great, and having installed 5 and used 2, it feels premium alright (the rubber on the hoods for example, is great).
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Help me understand please, is the new road groupset from Wheeltop (EDS TX) that's shipping at the moment a pre-production model? Or, is this a finalized product that's expected to be reliable? Considering whether I should buy one now or wait until a "2.0" version, similar to what L-Twoo ERX is about to release.
Video: NEW! L-TWOO eRX Blue Edition: What's new? Did they finally fix the issues?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ&t=55s
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Based on youtube videos i've seen, L-TWOO has removed features that were patent pending. The auto trim is one that comes to mind. But Wheeltop seems to be much more reckless about that (I think with Sram related features especially, I think?). I'm not interested in that group so havent been paying close attention, but that's the impression i got. And the US is the land of lawsuits. And US cyclists keep complaining that road cycling is dying there, vs Asia is on the rise, and Europe is its birth place. And Sram is affordable in the US, while it's not in Europe.
So that's my 5 cents.
What i dont understand is why these channels are touting wheeltop electronic as the di2 killer when it's worse than l-twoo's erx in more ways than 1 (worse app, no garmin integration just to name two), and the er9/erx just works great, and having installed 5 and used 2, it feels premium alright (the rubber on the hoods for example, is great).
I don’t disagree with your comments at all. The only reason the EDS is mildly interesting to me is the ability to upgrade a good, older rim brake bike for 5-600.00 USD. I agree both Di2 and SRAM prices are coming down. If I was going to do a new build I’d opt for either of those two groups.
Hearing positive reviews of the Ltwoo groupset is reassuring, especially bow that folks are identifying some of the bugs. ERX or ER9 might be an option down the road for a true budget build.
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What i dont understand is why these channels are touting wheeltop electronic as the di2 killer when it's worse than l-twoo's erx in more ways than 1 (worse app, no garmin integration just to name two), and the er9/erx just works great, and having installed 5 and used 2, it feels premium alright (the rubber on the hoods for example, is great).
I don't know much about either of the brands but hasn't Wheeltop been around for a while? Especially with their MTB-focus groupset that has been getting good reviews.
Also, I would expect them to have bike computer compatibility through an update, eventually.
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Wheeltop have computer connectivity,it's the computer manufacturers that need to implement it in their devices.
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Has anyone written the 2 sellers and asked why they can't/wont sell to customers in the USA? Since one of them sold one to me, perhaps they can be convinced to ship to the USA.
I did to one, they didn't say why they cannot ship but if one really wants it they will send it. The reply from seller:
If you need it? We can send it to you via a special link.
I have asked for that special link but yet to hear back. Something tells me its not going to be Aliexpress product link, lets see.
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The only other place outside of Aliexpress I have found is, IceBikeHeaven.com. With shipping from Maylasia to the US it was around 680-700.00. I’m skeptical because on their Ebay store they sell the same set for around 900.00 USD.
I’m with Toxin on this, just wait until summer or fall when they’ve had a chance to increase production. Maybe prices will come down a little and there will be more long term reports on it.
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Help me understand please, is the new road groupset from Wheeltop (EDS TX) that's shipping at the moment a pre-production model? Or, is this a finalized product that's expected to be reliable? Considering whether I should buy one now or wait until a "2.0" version, similar to what L-Twoo ERX is about to release.
The EDS TX kit I received is 100% full production. My first impression is that this is a very well designed product and at least is somewhere between XT and XTR product quality. (I haven't weighed parts yet.)
I am stripping down my gravel bike and cleaning it and hope to start installing the EDS TX kit later today.
I downloaded the app through the QR code supplied in the kit. I was worried at first because my other 4 EDS OX derailleurs showed up right away when I opened the App. I woke up the front and rear derailleurs, and then the App immediately recognized the front and rear derailleurs. The app works the same as the OX rear derailleur, except, now I have 5 rear derailleurs and one front showing up in the App.
If the EDS TX kit works as close to how my first EDS OX has worked to date, I will be very very pleased.
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WheelTop EDS TX alloy version appears to be available on AliExpress at a lower price point:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806495696389.html)
This place is still selling and shipping. Got new stock but prices have increased.
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i should have gotten the rim brake version when it was just CAD 500++ during the Anniversary sale with coupons
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I really wish they'd included auxilliary buttons on this. Though I'm sure if an app is made, long presses or whatever could control Garmins pages.
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The rim brake version is back on with free shipping to USA. Rates have increased though. Not sure what's going on there.
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High deman -> price goes up
Capitalism, baby
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Wasn't wondering about the price. It was about the shipping to USA.
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Yeah, price has been increasing due to the demand. Regarding shipping, I had to msg the seller through the app. They were able to turn on shipping to the US. I didn’t order because of the price increase. Seems to be an issue with their software. Yesterday, I could put in my cart and get shipping. Today, the shipping restriction is back on.
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My EDS TX Disc kit is up and running on my gravel bike. I put on 40 miles today, 15 on single track / trails. Positives: 1. Smoothness and crisp shifting. 2. I was able to remove .6 lbs off the bike installing the Wheeltop kit along with a 12 speed ZTTO lightweight cassette and ZTTO hollow pin chain.
Minor issues: 1. I wore long finger cycling gloves. This made it more difficult to shift the small paddle. I had a few shifts where I hit both paddles at the same time. This appears to confuse the derailleur where it shifts up then down or down up depending on which paddle was hit first. 2. It literally took me 2 hours to get the rear cassette cogs trimmed to be smooth on both the small and large front rings. I would trim all the cassette cogs in the small ring, then shift to the large ring and many of the them would not run smooth. I had to iterate trim adjustments running large and small chain rings. (My EDS OX rear derailleurs all adjusted very quickly.)
During this process, I gradually adjusted the body-angle screw until I found the sweet spot on all the cassette cogs in both the small and large front rings.
Thumbs up for the Wheeltop EDS TX Disc.
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Well thats ore of a cassette problem than a derrailleur problem
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My experience with ultralight chinese cassettes is that they're not durable, and the shifting is never as smooth as say a 105 cassette. If it's even more lightweight than say a dura-ace one, there's serious stuff being compromised IMO.
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I would make sure the derailleur hanger is straight using an alignment tool. Whenever cassette shifting is off, that's one of the first things I check.
My new lightweight Goldix 12 speed cassette has been working great for me. It weighs significantly less than any Shimano 11-34t on the market.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806211333567.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806211333567.html)
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Oh they usually shift well enough, but with the increased tension of a clutch on a GRX derailleur I've had mixed results, whereas a cheap 105 cassette still shifts perfectly well on the same derailleur and with or without clutch. It can't be the derailleur when this variable is consistent between the two cassettes. Also I've noticed that in salty winter rides in Canada they tend to rust a lot quicker than Shimano cassettes. For dry weather they might be alright but anything wet/muddy they'll wear down very quickly.
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2 months since I built my EDS TX on the TIME ADH2023. I must say it is pretty reliable so far and even survived a crash and worked normally.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/C3eBr7kYWqfZSCwF8
The discussion on those lightweight Chinese cassettes do hold water as shifting is not as crisp as a Shimano cassette. Nevertheless at their current pricepoint, they are really irresistable buys with the amazing lightness. I am currently using the Zitto 11T-30T (12s) and there will always be a gear that will be tad bit off after a few rides. Not sure why but a quick tweak with the variable gear setting sorted that out.
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I ran the Sunshine then the ZTTO ultra-light-weight cassettes on my gravel bike. I have worn out the middle cogs on 2 of them in about 10K miles of riding. Now I am running a ZTTO ultralight XD 12-speed, 10-36 cassette with the EDS TX system. Time will tell how the ZTTO aluminum cassette will hold up.
I read that many people bite the bullet and purchase 3 chains to run on these cassettes. They rotate/swap out the chains with each other about every 1000 to 1500 miles. They say this makes the cassettes last much longer, because you run less stretched chains and swap these out, it increases the longevity of the cassette versus running only one chain, and as this chain stretches, it wears out the aluminum teeth faster.
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Has anyone consider going down in cassette speed instead of going up? For example Shimano XT 11-34/36t cassettes are on par with Ultegra, are cheaper and weigh less than the 11/12 speed equivalents. Now that the Wheeltop EDS TX and ER9/X can go 7-13 speeds there are more options to choose from.
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I ran the Sunshine then the ZTTO ultra-light-weight cassettes on my gravel bike. I have worn out the middle cogs on 2 of them in about 10K miles of riding. Now I am running a ZTTO ultralight XD 12-speed, 10-36 cassette with the EDS TX system. Time will tell how the ZTTO aluminum cassette will hold up.
I read that many people bite the bullet and purchase 3 chains to run on these cassettes. They rotate/swap out the chains with each other about every 1000 to 1500 miles. They say this makes the cassettes last much longer, because you run less stretched chains and swap these out, it increases the longevity of the cassette versus running only one chain, and as this chain stretches, it wears out the aluminum teeth faster.
Waxed drivetrains?
Has anyone consider going down in cassette speed instead of going up? For example Shimano XT 11-34/36t cassettes are on par with Ultegra, are cheaper and weigh less than the 11/12 speed equivalents. Now that the Wheeltop EDS TX and ER9/X can go 7-13 speeds there are more options to choose from.
I'm running 11s 11-34 & 11-36; when i ordered last year, 12s ultralight maxed out at 11-32. It's amazing to have the option to change the # of gears on the er9. I run chinese ultra light cassettes, with waxed chains & properly indexed gears, they're amazing.
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Waxed drivetrains?
I'm running 11s 11-34 & 11-36; when i ordered last year, 12s ultralight maxed out at 11-32. It's amazing to have the option to change the # of gears on the er9. I run chinese ultra light cassettes, with waxed chains & properly indexed gears, they're amazing.
Immersive waxing is definitely key with these ultra lightweight cassettes. I think they were designed with waxed chains in mind.
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Yes, I wax regularly. I have been for years. Immersive and applied onto chain in liquid form.
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Would anyone be interested in a brand new never used take off eds tx groupset?
Has been installed on bike then removed, without boxes and the hydraulic cables have been cut
Sorry if im not allowed to post this here. Let me know i can delete
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You should say where you are, not everyone here is in the US. And you should probably post in the sales section as well. You'll find a buyer here for sure. You also need to state a price :)
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Thanks!
Just posted in sale section with info and pictures. $580 shipped
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Just got mine. Didn't appreciate the black debris all over the plastic wrap getting on my fingers when unpackaging. I'm assuming its debris from the foam cutouts or whatever machine did it.
Anyway, happy to have it now. Right shifter buttons I'm unsure about. Will see how it feels after being charged up and I can play with it. Also charging rear derailleur, not being installed, I needed to place a pencil to keep it open a bit otherwise it pushes the magnetic charge head off the connections.
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what kind of hardware comes with the group? ltwoo er9 comes with well over a dozen different bolts for the brakes, as well as 140 & 160 adaptors for both front and rear. In contrast it seems that shimano really skimps on hardware, which i find so incredibly $hitty of them.
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Linsook. Welcome to the club. Weather permitting, I will start riding my gravel bike 100+miles a week. Get yours going soon, so we can collect data, present it, and show those ltwoo er9 owners that Wheeltop has the better product! ;D
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Linsook. Welcome to the club. Weather permitting, I will start riding my gravel bike 100+miles a week. Get yours going soon, so we can collect data, present it, and show those ltwoo er9 owners that Wheeltop has the better product! ;D
;D sounds like a plan
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what kind of hardware comes with the group? ltwoo er9 comes with well over a dozen different bolts for the brakes, as well as 140 & 160 adaptors for both front and rear. In contrast it seems that shimano really skimps on hardware, which i find so incredibly $hitty of them.
Enough to screw the caliper to adapter and adapter to frame No spares.
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Today i saw this Twitter bikes catalogue, interesting that full carbon bike with wheeltop eds tx costs 950 USD, I wonder how much a wheeltop costs for a factory.
Rival upgrade kit I can find for around 1000 USD, 1525 - 905 = 620 USD difference between rival and eds versions, so 1000 - 620 = 380 USD for eds? Maybe lower, because rival also has a wholesale price.
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This would be great if enthusiasts here in the USA had access to the bikes listed in the catalog sheet you posted. Twitter USA does no have any offerings with EDS on them. Perhaps this catalog sheet is for other English speaking countries and the USD is just for reference, or autofilled in the price boxes. (Just guessing)
On Aliexpress, there are complete Twitter EDS bikes starting around $1500 up to about $4K. Appears to still be a decent deal, but the overall weight of these bikes are heavier, by pounds, versus what I ride.
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Today i saw this Twitter bikes catalogue, interesting that full carbon bike with wheeltop eds tx costs 950 USD, I wonder how much a wheeltop costs for a factory.
Rival upgrade kit I can find for around 1000 USD, 1525 - 905 = 620 USD difference between rival and eds versions, so 1000 - 620 = 380 USD for eds? Maybe lower, because rival also has a wholesale price.
I am interested in this groupset and was about a new aero frame. So complete bike at competitive price fits with my idea of both, as a bike and spare parts.
Do you have a contact?
Thanks a lot for your post and help!!
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I am interested in this groupset and was about a new aero frame. So complete bike at competitive price fits with my idea of both, as a bike and spare parts.
Do you have a contact?
Thanks a lot for your post and help!!
I saw this bike on aliexpress, but price was not so good, also saw this https://28goods.com/products/twitter-r12-pro-disc-brake-with-wheeltop-eds
And this twitter r15 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256806382207768.html
I know, that people buy this bikes directly from factory, or maybe from alibaba, but don't know how.
This would be great if enthusiasts here in the USA had access to the bikes listed in the catalog sheet you posted. Twitter USA does no have any offerings with EDS on them. Perhaps this catalog sheet is for other English speaking countries and the USD is just for reference, or autofilled in the price boxes. (Just guessing)
On Aliexpress, there are complete Twitter EDS bikes starting around $1500 up to about $4K. Appears to still be a decent deal, but the overall weight of these bikes are heavier, by pounds, versus what I ride.
I know that this prices are actual for Easter Europe, and people buy at this price. I think, that the prices in USD is only for convenience, I saw prices in CNY, and they are almost the same.
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I saw this bike on aliexpress, but price was not so good, also saw this https://28goods.com/products/twitter-r12-pro-disc-brake-with-wheeltop-eds
And this twitter r15 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256806382207768.html
I know, that people buy this bikes directly from factory, or maybe from alibaba, but don't know how.
I know that this prices are actual for Easter Europe, and people buy at this price. I think, that the prices in USD is only for convenience, I saw prices in CNY, and they are almost the same.
Twitter R12 Pro on 28Goods EUR 1010.95 / Catalogue USD 1115.00
So price on 28Goods i do not find it bad at all
It would be groupset at EUR 739.00 (pre order price in Spain now. Deleted price €879.00, so price after pre-order sales), frame and rest EUR 271.95
Will check with 28Goods about shipping costs and will try to contact Twitter factory also.
Will let you know if i make progress in either way.
Thanks again!!
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I couldn’t wait any longer. Pulled the trigger on an EDS rim brake version 2 days ago. With a discount I got it for under 540.00 USD (taxes included) and free shipping. 500-550.00 was my break point for purchasing this groupset. Looking forward to testing it out this summer. I will be replacing a perfectly well tuned 105 R7000 group on my training bike.
I will provide feedback once it arrives and I get some miles on it.
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Twitter R12 Pro on 28Goods EUR 1010.95 / Catalogue USD 1115.00
So price on 28Goods i do not find it bad at all
It would be groupset at EUR 739.00 (pre order price in Spain now. Deleted price €879.00, so price after pre-order sales), frame and rest EUR 271.95
Will check with 28Goods about shipping costs and will try to contact Twitter factory also.
Will let you know if i make progress in either way.
Thanks again!!
Let us know if you can reach Twitter factory and the prices you got
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Welp, I finally got around to installing it but front derailluer's adjustment screw doesn't work screw hole has its threads stripped.... Sigh. Since I bought it off AliExpress, the options given to me where to ship it back for repair or replacement and they'll only cover $20 for the shipping. What a pain. I think I'll just retap it myself with larger pitch threads and grub screw to match.
youtu.be/954JlwyqVzI
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I am just under 200 miles on my EDS TX installation. To date, the system has worked really well other than taking some time to get used to the RH shift paddles. As the shifting becomes more natural, I am making fewer and fewer mis-shifts.
My EDS TX is installed on my gravel bike. Each of my rides typically has 2500+ ft of climbing for every 20 miles ridden. These rides are shift intensive, so if I am going to have any problems, they will show up sooner than later.
So far.... Thumbs up!
OTOH, I have about 1500 miles on my EDS OX (1X 12) bike-packing hardtail without any issues over the past 9 months. I have less than 100 miles each on the EDs OX hardtail and FS bike. This past weekend, my Full suspension bike really took a beating over 2 days of riding, and the OX rear derailleur worked flawlessly.
I definitely give a thumbs up for the EDS OX kit.
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Looking for some help. Got my EDS TX today. Charged everything, got the app, did a functions test after everything was paired. Once I started mounting it to my bike and making adjustments, the RD defaults to 3rd gear. I can use the initial calibration function to force it into 1st (11spd) but after one or two shifts it defaults right back to 3rd.
I deleted the app tried all over and turned off the units. FWIW, I was able to get the FD mounted and tuned. Any suggestions?
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Looking for some help. Got my EDS TX today. Charged everything, got the app, did a functions test after everything was paired. Once I started mounting it to my bike and making adjustments, the RD defaults to 3rd gear. I can use the initial calibration function to force it into 1st (11spd) but after one or two shifts it defaults right back to 3rd.
I deleted the app tried all over and turned off the units. FWIW, I was able to get the FD mounted and tuned. Any suggestions?
I assume: You have the cassette selected to the correct number of cogs (11 speed)
1. Put your app into "initial calibration" You should see a picture that looks like a cassette. On each side, there are arrows. Since your derailleur is stuck in a higher gear, you have to slowly step it down to the smallest cog. (Reads like you have done this process already.)
2. After you get the pulleys aligned with the smallest cog, exit initial calibration. Go into the "replace cassette" screen and first check that the settings are "11" speed. Then select either 10 speed or 12 speed and save your setting for a different cassette and "Save" Exit, then go back into the "replace cassette" screen and select "11 speed" and save this setting. (This is a double check to be sure that the derailleur has "learned and saved" the cassette as an 11 speed).
3. Select "variable speed mode" and then select "fine tuning gear" "rear". Take a look at the screen to be sure you have 11 gears displayed. Check to see the "1file" has a "0" setting. Verify that the shift count for each gear is an equal value between gears. - Push on the "One Click Recovery" and reset to the default cog spacing. (If it isn't resetting you have some sort of a problem I haven't seen before.)
4. Exit out of this screen and go into the "Gear Shift" screen. This screen should show your number of cogs, and that you are in your smallest cog. Shift into lower gears. (Past where it was stuck before.) Then shift back down to the smallest cog. Repeat several times if possible.
5. Hopefully this solves your problem.
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I assume: You have the cassette selected to the correct number of cogs (11 speed)
1. Put your app into "initial calibration" You should see a picture that looks like a cassette. On each side, there are arrows. Since your derailleur is stuck in a higher gear, you have to slowly step it down to the smallest cog. (Reads like you have done this process already.)
2. After you get the pulleys aligned with the smallest cog, exit initial calibration. Go into the "replace cassette" screen and first check that the settings are "11" speed. Then select either 10 speed or 12 speed and save your setting for a different cassette and "Save" Exit, then go back into the "replace cassette" screen and select "11 speed" and save this setting. (This is a double check to be sure that the derailleur has "learned and saved" the cassette as an 11 speed).
3. Select "variable speed mode" and then select "fine tuning gear" "rear". Take a look at the screen to be sure you have 11 gears displayed. Check to see the "1file" has a "0" setting. Verify that the shift count for each gear is an equal value between gears. - Push on the "One Click Recovery" and reset to the default cog spacing. (If it isn't resetting you have some sort of a problem I haven't seen before.)
4. Exit out of this screen and go into the "Gear Shift" screen. This screen should show your number of cogs, and that you are in your smallest cog. Shift into lower gears. (Past where it was stuck before.) Then shift back down to the smallest cog. Repeat several times if possible.
5. Hopefully this solves your problem.
Tijoe,
Thank you so much for the quick response. Yes, I was able to fix it but it was my fault not the grpupsets. I paired everything first then started following the set up
instructions. I had the FD on the small chainring…. A real smack my head moment. I didn’t have the chain on so it never occurred to me that the FD might be preventing crosschaining.
I got it all set up and did a preliminary test ride around the neighborhood.
Working out the kinks and fine tuning the gears. In race mode, I seemed to get the
RD to skip gears with just one press of the paddle. I went back to casual and the gear changes were more positive with no skips. Race mode did not seem to make the FD any faster.
I have a more thorough write up once I get out on some training rides. So far, I’m cautiously optimistic.
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Still a bit early to provide a full assessment. However, I did a 2hr ride on a hilly course. So far, no issues to report. Still dialing in the shifting and ensuring everything is spot on. Primarily at this point I am very pleased with the rim brake version.
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i've done a makeshift temp fix to get my front derailleur usable while I wait for my tapping gear to arrive.
Early thoughts, shifting is good. I'm not sure how I feel about the trimming or when protection kicks in - still trying to figure out what it's doing. Front right shifter buttons feel fine, haven't had any usage/ergonomic issues. So far it's been positive experience in actual use.
On a separate note, it looks like wheeltop.com is shipping to more destinations like Canada however not U.S. yet.
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I'm seeing the Wheeltop EDS TX disc groupset re-listed on AliExpress with shipping. The seller is offering a $48.54 USD discount + the current $50 USD discount code.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806728969400.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806728969400.html)
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I went through the other seller. Initially, I was going to purchase from that site but got
a better discount with the other one. Prices seem to fluctuate weekly. I’m still testing my groupset before I provide some end user feedback. So far, mostly positive.
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2 days ago, I swapped out my crank set that uses 50 - 34 chainrings to a new set of cranks with 48-32 chainrings. I shortened my chain my a link, lowered the front derailleur then performed a new calibration on the app for the front derailleur. Now that I am very familiar with using the WheelTop app, this process went very smoothly. I had to re-tune 4 of the rear cogs. Took the bike out for a 17 mile, 1,500 feet of climbing test ride. I am becoming used to the shifters and had no "human error" mis shifts.
The more I ride the EDS TX, the more I like it. (After about 220 miles on the new kit, plus the shifting during my latest tuning, the front derailleur says 77%, rear derailleur is at 71% battery charge.)
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How much have you guys paid for it? I heard on youtube someone paid around 400 dollars (he's canadian but i would still assume USD) but I've never seen it anywhere near that price
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How much have you guys paid for it? I heard on youtube someone paid around 400 dollars (he's canadian but i would still assume USD) but I've never seen it anywhere near that price
My hydraulic brake, carbon lever kit cost $620, minus $80 off anniversary sale coupon, minus store coupon for around $20, for a total of $522 with free shipping.
Edit: I read that the aluminum, rim brake version, was purchased for closer to $400 during the sale, but there weren't many of those kits for sale and they sold out fast.
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Aluminium rim brake does not exist (for sale) yet. Only carbon rim brake and alu disc brake
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How much have you guys paid for it? I heard on youtube someone paid around 400 dollars (he's canadian but i would still assume USD) but I've never seen it anywhere near that price
I got mine in aluminium for 472USD (AliExpress coins + AliExpress 50$ coupon code + Seller's 80$ coupon code), disc brake version. I asked the seller the weight difference between the carbon and the aluminium version and he told me there was a difference of 0.1kg, that's why I did not opt for the carbon version. IMO, it was not worth the 60$ difference.
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Aluminium rim brake does not exist (for sale) yet. Only carbon rim brake and alu disc brake
I could swear that for a short period of time around the Anniversary sale, an Aliexpress store sold a EDS TX-RA6100 kit that had Aluminum shift levers, rather than carbon, and used cable brakes. This was the inexpensive kit I saw that could be purchased for around $400, but they were all sold out. When I look up these listings, it says "page can't be found"
In Japan, I see this kit for sale, but my computer wont translate the page, so I can't read the details to confirm aluminum brake levers.
Edit: There are TX-RA6100 and TX-RA6000 kits listed I am failrly sure one kit has aluminum brake levers.
http://hodaka-bicycles.jp/wheeltop-eds-txra6100-delay/
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I paid 540.00 (total) for the carbon rim brake version. TBH, it doesn’t feel like there is much in the way of carbon fiber on this groupset. If your finding this in this in the 400-475.00 range I would say that is a deal.
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I could swear that for a short period of time around the Anniversary sale, an Aliexpress store sold a EDS TX-RA6100 kit that had Aluminum shift levers, rather than carbon, and used cable brakes. This was the inexpensive kit I saw that could be purchased for around $400, but they were all sold out. When I look up these listings, it says "page can't be found"
In Japan, I see this kit for sale, but my computer wont translate the page, so I can't read the details to confirm aluminum brake levers.
Edit: There are TX-RA6100 and TX-RA6000 kits listed I am failrly sure one kit has aluminum brake levers.
http://hodaka-bicycles.jp/wheeltop-eds-txra6100-delay/
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Just my initial thoughts on the EDS RA6000 (carbon rim brake) groupset. Up front, it’s working well for my intended purposes and after 6 days of continuous riding I am quite happy with the product for the price. Time will tell how good of a groupset it actually is.
For a good overview of the groupset, I found Ribble Valley Cyclist’s review to be helpful: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UfV05_ot7lM&pp=ygUVcmliYmxlIHZhbGxleSBjeWNsaXN0
I received my group a week early, which was a surprise. No damage to the packaging. Everything appeared to be in order. Not a lot of instructions or extra parts. It’s basically a mini grouppo, bring your own crankset, chain and cassette. I pre downloaded the app. For the first two days, I fumbled my way through the app, set up and tuning. Translations to English are not the best but if you are familiar with working on bikes most of it should be self explanatory.
I set the group up on a 14yro near mint Tarmac Elite frame that I’m using on my turbo during the winter months. The rest of the year its my “training, travel, take to work bike”. Despite it’s age the bike performs really well. I had brand new 105 R7000 before I put the EDS on. Running 50-34 compact cranks and 11-32 cassette.
Set up using the “Initial Calibration” feature on the app is really simple. Mount everything, add the chain, set the RD on the smallest sprocket and move it slightly inboard till it rubs the next gear. Back it off and set the limit screw. Function test by moving through the gears and set the high limit screw. All done.
I got some chatter in some of the middle gears. Took me a while to figure out the “fine tuning” feature but once I got it sorted, fine tuning has actually gotten pretty easy. I recommend moving up or down in increments of +/-50. You’ll know really quickly if its going in the right direction.
Performance wise, I am comparing this group to SRAM AXS Force (previous gen), Ultegra Di2 11spd, and Dura-Ace Di2 11spd. I have thousands of miles on all three of those groups and have my opinions on all of them. My opinion is that Di2 has always “worked”. I’ve never had an issue with Ultegra or DA. Tuning, cassette, chainring swaps, all easy. Battery life, never an issue. SRAM, worked great, hoods were a bit big, it was noisy and it took me a year to figure out how to prevent the dreaded FD overshift… but it was still a solid group.
EDS in comparison to these groups “feels” to me ever so slightly slower in shifting. Not like in a detrimental way, it’s just what I perceive to feel. I am only using it in “Casual mode”. I tested “Race mode” in the stand and it shifted much faster but it would skip 2-3 gears. Also, Race mode is supposed to drain the battery quicker. In Race mode it didn’t seem like the FD shifted any quicker.
Over the last 6 days I’ve ridden between 20-30 miles each day. No missed shifts, no chatter (after fine tuning) or hang ups. Riding hilly undulating routes with constant shifting. It was surprisingly good with zero issues. Felt better than my SRAM Force if I can be honest. The paddles for shifting are decent but don’t provide positive “click” like Shimano or SRAM when making gear changes. Set up of the FD was easier than the RD and far easier than SRAM’s FD. I set it one time, fine tuned it and have had no chain drops. The FD is slow but it works with no drama.
Hoods in my opinion are ugly but functional. They “work” but lack any real thought or ergo design behind them. On the other hand, they are bigger than Shimano’s hoods and smaller than SRAM’s. The rubber is pretty good too.
I did not take any weight measurements, however when I unboxed the group, each component felt heavier than I expected. On the bike, it didn’t affect the overall bike weight by a large margin. Both batteries came with about an 80% charge. I charged them to 100% before started my tests. After one week the RD is at 70% and the FD is at 75%. I plan to ride until I hit 20% before recharging.
Couple of concerns and annoyances. Spare parts, battery replacements, hoods are not available. Every time you want to connect to check battery life or make changes to the group, you have to wake the system with the charging cable plugged into a power source. There is no external wake feature.
I plan on putting the miles only this group over the summer. As issues arise or anything happens of concern I’ll update this thread. In the meantime, I think if it continues to work as is I will try it out with a 12spd set up in the fall.
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Couple of concerns and annoyances. Spare parts, battery replacements, hoods are not available. Every time you want to connect to check battery life or make changes to the group, you have to wake the system with the charging cable plugged into a power source. There is no external wake feature.
Not my experience. Group indeed needs to be woken up if you weren't using it either from movement or through the shifter buttons afterwhich you can connect your app to make adjustments. No need to have charge cable attached and plugged into power source.
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Not my experience. Group indeed needs to be woken up if you weren't using it either from movement or through the shifter buttons afterwhich you can connect your app to make adjustments. No need to have charge cable attached and plugged into power source.
Nor my experience. Same as quoted above.
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I stand corrected. When I initially tried to install this everytime I tried to connect via the app, it kept timing out. This led me to attach the charging cable to wake the device and connect.
I just tried it now without the charging cable and was able to connect. Sorry for the bad info.
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Gravel groupset to be anounced "soon"
source https://youtu.be/alWjt9AqT0Q?si=apztFRmVhx_yEia0&t=1365
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(My EDS OX rear derailleurs all adjusted very quickly.)
During this process, I gradually adjusted the body-angle screw until I found the sweet spot on all the cassette cogs in both the small and large front rings.
Thumbs up for the Wheeltop EDS TX Disc.
Have you attempted to pair the TX shifters with the OX derailleur?
Gravel groupset to be anounced "soon"
source https://youtu.be/alWjt9AqT0Q?si=apztFRmVhx_yEia0&t=1365
Would be amazing if they made their ecosystem flexible in pairings.
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Welp, I finally got around to installing it but front derailluer's adjustment screw doesn't work screw hole has its threads stripped.... Sigh. Since I bought it off AliExpress, the options given to me where to ship it back for repair or replacement and they'll only cover $20 for the shipping. What a pain. I think I'll just retap it myself with larger pitch threads and grub screw to match.
youtu.be/954JlwyqVzI
I've retapped the hole and went up to an M5 size. Not totally satisfied with my job. The Aluminum they've used is really soft which was somewhat disappointing and stainless steel grub screws will just eat it up. Another worry is galvanic corrosion... oh well, we'll see how it holds up. I might do a thread insert instead to eliminate my worry of it stripping again from use. That said, I've dialed it in and given it a quick ride - super happy with the shifting and performance of everything. So far so good.
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Qn for the wheeltop users here. Is it working with the bike computers that you are using? There are videos showing it working with igpsport and displaying both gearing and battery life.
What about others like Garmin/wahoo/hammerhead?
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Qn for the wheeltop users here. Is it working with the bike computers that you are using? There are videos showing it working with igpsport and displaying both gearing and battery life.
What about others like Garmin/wahoo/hammerhead?
Karoo2 here - doesn't see it.
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I am using Karoo2 and it's working with Ltwoo.
Hopefully it's a firmware update away.
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Qn for the wheeltop users here. Is it working with the bike computers that you are using? There are videos showing it working with igpsport and displaying both gearing and battery life.
What about others like Garmin/wahoo/hammerhead?
Does not work with iGPSPORT iGS630. Tried to get the 630 to be recognized, no go. Contacted iGSPORT, they said they would add it to the list of software updates.
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I haven’t tried yet. Just using an old Garmin 530.
Went on a 100k group ride yesterday. Not the fastest group but did a lot of gear changes. Mostly an endurance ride for me. The EDS performed pretty well for the most part. I did encounter two issues that I’m going to address this week.
1: When I shift in the middle gears of the cassette there is some “noise/clicking” when I shift down. Its almost like it doesn’t settle into the gear. However, if I shift past it and then back up it goes away. I’m going to play with micro adjust feature and see if I can’t fix it.
2: At about the 80-85k mark the group started surging on a hill. I was in the middle of the pack and shifted to maintain my cadence and match the group’s speed. There was a loud metallic “pop” in the back. I was shifting under load but not putting down crazy power. I sounded like it came from the cassette. Now real change in how it was functioning but I was concerned enough that I pulled off the group and rode in with a much smaller group the last 15k. It shifted fine the rest of the way but I need to inspect the cassette and chainring for any broken teeth. FWIW, all the components are brand new. I’m hoping it was just a skipped gear or something.
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Thoughts on shifter forward play? For me, It would have been nice if that movement wasn't there but not a deal breaker.
Youtu.be/EnTpydWnZEY
youtu.be/GJAumV2gOCs
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Thoughts on shifter forward play? For me, It would have been nice if that movement wasn't there but not a deal breaker.
Youtu.be/EnTpydWnZEY
youtu.be/GJAumV2gOCs
I never even noticed that the brake levers can be moved forward. Non issue to me. The levers are always where they need to be when I brake and shift.
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Thoughts on shifter forward play? For me, It would have been nice if that movement wasn't there but not a deal breaker.
Youtu.be/EnTpydWnZEY
youtu.be/GJAumV2gOCs
Both my Ultegra and LTwoo ER9 levers do that. If you adjust your lever reach, there will be slight play. Not really a big deal.
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Hi,
I have a question for the current owners of this groupset.
I haven't installed the groupset on my bike yet, but I would like to know if your rear derailleur (RD) was stuck on the 3rd gear when you initially set it up.
Here's my issue:
- I can't shift to the first or second gear when I am on the biggest chainring.
- I can shift to any gear when I am on the smallest chainring.
For context, I am configuring the groupset to work with a 12-speed cassette.
I saw that a similar issue was addressed in a previous post, but I wanted to know if it is normal to have this problem if the groupset is not installed on a bike.
Cheers
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You said, “I haven’t installed the groupset on my bike yet.” I’ m a bit confused by this if you’re having problems. Can you clarify?
For me, running 11spd, on initial set up/calibration you set the RD to the smallest cog (with or without the chain). Once that is done you visually align the jockey wheels with the smallest cog using the limit screws. Test the shifting and ensure the limit screw doesn’t allow for an overshift. From there you should be able cycle through the cog and set the high limit. Theoretically, it should work all just fine but you can adjust specific cog through the fine tuning feature.
FWIW, I’m still putting the miles/kms on my EDS to determine its reliability. So far, I like it. No issues with being stuck in a gear.
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Hi,
I have a question for the current owners of this groupset.
I haven't installed the groupset on my bike yet, but I would like to know if your rear derailleur (RD) was stuck on the 3rd gear when you initially set it up.
Here's my issue:
- I can't shift to the first or second gear when I am on the biggest chainring.
- I can shift to any gear when I am on the smallest chainring.
For context, I am configuring the groupset to work with a 12-speed cassette.
I saw that a similar issue was addressed in a previous post, but I wanted to know if it is normal to have this problem if the groupset is not installed on a bike.
Cheers
That's cross chaining protection
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And you should be able to disable this crosschain protection in the app.
I set it up for 11sp…and sometimes it might be necessary so increase the values which are standard setup.
eg…for my edco 11sp I had to up the value of the 11th gear from (~) 1760 to 1840, so the derailleur was able to reach
the full range….
Since that initial fine tune I had not a single misshift or whatsoever on my gravel bike….setup with 46/30 oval 11-34sp
And btw….support very responsive!
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https://www.instagram.com/p/C7CYOmBPm0S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/C7CYOmBPm0S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
Wheeltop EDS GX will be officially launched in June 2024! Stay tuned for more updates on several new product launches!
Wheeltop EDS GX for gravel bike
Continuing the TX platform architecture, to adapt to harsher environments such as forest roads, we have optimized damping strength and introduced controllable technology for a more varied riding experience. We've retained the TX speed shift, improving chain line stability, and providing strong performance, and reliable strength to help you navigate forest and narrow roads confidently.
SHARK RIDGE
Inspired by sharks, this product is designed for forest roads and gravel terrain, featuring aggressive diagonal segment lines to enhance impact resistance.
With a hidden limit screw adjustment mechanism and external fairing, we've enhanced aerodynamic performance and impact resistance, ensuring readiness for any terrain.
Efficient space arrangement allows for hiding within the frame, with a distance of only 25.5mm between the high point and the frame, significantly increasing performance on forest and narrow roads.
Three buttons offer customizable settings (accessible via the WHEEL TOP APP), tailored to your riding preferences, reducing learning costs and adding a personalized touch to your riding equipment.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/C7CYOmBPm0S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/p/C7CYOmBPm0S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
Wheeltop EDS GX will be officially launched in June 2024! Stay tuned for more updates on several new product launches!
Wheeltop EDS GX for gravel bike
Continuing the TX platform architecture, to adapt to harsher environments such as forest roads, we have optimized damping strength and introduced controllable technology for a more varied riding experience. We've retained the TX speed shift, improving chain line stability, and providing strong performance, and reliable strength to help you navigate forest and narrow roads confidently.
SHARK RIDGE
Inspired by sharks, this product is designed for forest roads and gravel terrain, featuring aggressive diagonal segment lines to enhance impact resistance.
With a hidden limit screw adjustment mechanism and external fairing, we've enhanced aerodynamic performance and impact resistance, ensuring readiness for any terrain.
Efficient space arrangement allows for hiding within the frame, with a distance of only 25.5mm between the high point and the frame, significantly increasing performance on forest and narrow roads.
Three buttons offer customizable settings (accessible via the WHEEL TOP APP), tailored to your riding preferences, reducing learning costs and adding a personalized touch to your riding equipment.
Reads like it can be paired with TX shifters. Nice.
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Inspired by sharks? The chinese are now doing meaningless bullshit marketing, they are learning so fast!
Is it 1x only? :( No word on clearance or capacity, would be nice if you could purchase the gravel RD with road levers and FD and run something like 50-34 11-42
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Can already run that, probably going up to mtb sizes
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Inspired by sharks? The chinese are now doing meaningless bullshit marketing, they are learning so fast!
Is it 1x only? :( No word on clearance or capacity, would be nice if you could purchase the gravel RD with road levers and FD and run something like 50-34 11-42
Looking at the model names, there will be 'GS' and 'SGS' versions of both the carbon and aluminium rear derailleurs. Clearly they're ripping off Shimano's MTB/gravel naming scheme here, where 'GS' is a medium cage and 'SGS' is a long cage.
The models listed are:
GX-RX6700-GS
GX-RX6700-SGS
GX-RX7701-GS
GX-RX7701-SGS
In Shimano's latest 12-speed GRX (for example), the GS supports up to a 10-45 cassette, and SGS is used for 10-51. Looks like a similar scheme will be used here.
There's also a TX-R7101-SGS derailleur mentioned there - TX is for road, but SGS is long cage. It might be that this is a wide-range 2x option.
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6000 are rim brake models
GS is the tag for the current mechs
In practice GX probably simply means 1x and TX 2x
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There's also a TX-R7101-SGS derailleur mentioned there - TX is for road, but SGS is long cage. It might be that this is a wide-range 2x option.
If it's a 2x gravel electronic groupset, I'm sold. I hate 1x. I prefer riding to the trails which requires doing road miles beforehand. I find driving to a trail just to ride a bike to be incredibly lame. Probably accounts for why most of MTB'ers I see in my area are switching to e-bikes to make up for their lack of fitness!
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I assume this will be a revision to the hoods too. It talks about 3 programmable buttons ... it's surely not on the derraileur(s).
I thought as soon as we saw the Magene hoods (d-fly style buttons) WheelTop would immediately revise. I'd expect LTWOO to do it before too long too.
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I doubt that, the 3 programmable buttons are probably just the paddles
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To me 3 buttons means the same as the TX groupset. 2 on the right shifter 1 on the left shifter. I don't know why a gravel groupset would ever have more especially if it's 1x
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Hmmm
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Hmmm
Clear answer ::)
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What an awful ospw
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There's a lot to cover. Why are they advertising "1x13", what does this imply? Are they making a "full" groupset with cassette discs and cranks? Are they locking us into 13 speed now?
The crankset looks like the senicx PR4 but it's not, the back of the cranks is different. Calipers are not the zrace ones and I don't recognize the rotors. The pic is blurry but it looks like the levers are exactly the same
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I've been using the TX on my gravel bike for about 500 miles. The biggest problem I am encountering is with the right hand shifter paddles/buttons. Proportionately the paddles are too small to shift easily on rough climbs and descents. When you are trying to shift on rough gravel, it is often difficult to locate your fingers and push/click on the buttons without having your fingers hit both paddles at the same time, or the wrong one. On a really rough forest road I descended yesterday, too many times, I was not able to push the narrower up-shift paddle, and my fingers would downshift instead.
If their new gravel group uses the same brake lever/paddles, then to me, there is not much improvement by only updating the rear derailleur and calling it a Gravel Group. To date, my TX group works fine on my gravel bike.
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There's a lot to cover. Why are they advertising "1x13", what does this imply? Are they making a "full" groupset with cassette discs and cranks? Are they locking us into 13 speed now?
The crankset looks like the senicx PR4 but it's not, the back of the cranks is different. Calipers are not the zrace ones and I don't recognize the rotors. The pic is blurry but it looks like the levers are exactly the same
I presume they are advertising "1X13" because it is one more gear than Scumano and SRAM sell on their main product lines. If my memories are current, Campy is the only one selling 13 cog cassettes. If you look at the majority of the "Twitter's" complete bicycles sold on Aliexpress, the majority of them are listed with Wheeltop EDS in either 1X13 2X13. I am sure the product is still configurable for 7 to 13 speeds. If they are putting a complete kit together to sell to OEM builders, then you might as well go with 13 speeds.
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The cranks are their own and they do make an mtb cassete. They also sell some stuff to decathlon
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The 4 piston calipers are their mtb brakes, these are new road/gravel ones
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One thing to be wary of - it seems like Wheeltop are not providing direct assistance for groupsets not bought from their website. There's a marketing rep in the Wheeltop EDS Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/237554719011888) that keeps posting messages such as this:
(https://i.imgur.com/Qmjvvsp.png)
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So what are they implying? Workers are selling them out of the back door of the factory? There aren't any fakes or copies ..
Awful look for WheelTop if they or a third party marketing company are refusing warranty or encouraging people to believe that there will be no warranty on products unless bought directly from them ... despite the fact they're clearly supplying other retailers.
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Agreed. That's ridiculously shitty of them.
Has South park cable network vibes of like "ooo, you didn't buy your product directly from you and now you have a problem with it and it's clearly something we made and we sold it to a reseller? Right right, oh we're sorry but we're not going to provide any service nor honour guarantee on that product you see"
https://youtu.be/vbHqUNl8YFk
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Save us magene
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What they are stating is fair. As far as in Europe (and maybe in other countries as well), it's the store who needs to provide warranty cases with the consumer and not the company of the product. So if you claim warranty, you need to contact your seller rather than directly Wheeltop.
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What they are stating is fair. As far as in Europe (and maybe in other countries as well), it's the store who needs to provide warranty cases with the consumer and not the company of the product. So if you claim warranty, you need to contact your seller rather than directly Wheeltop.
But since they state they do not sell to third party seller there is the real chance there will be no warranty. Certainly not by wheeltop, not even through the sellers.
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What they are stating is fair. As far as in Europe (and maybe in other countries as well), it's the store who needs to provide warranty cases with the consumer and not the company of the product. So if you claim warranty, you need to contact your seller rather than directly Wheeltop.
This is different. they are saying that the only way to buy their products is via their website.
what you are saying is what LTWOO is doing for eg, which is, in case of warranty issues, you contact your reseller, and the reseller liaises with LTWOO. I know that 1st hand, given i'm now on my 3rd dead ER9 RD, and every time i go through the reseller, which is torture.
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This is pretty dumb. How hard is it to assign a serial # to each groupset? Their warranty process is just pure laziness. The EDS TX is already in Shimano 105 Di2 AliEx pricing territory. At least with the 105 Di2, spare parts are plentiful and quality assurance to chance buying from a reseller is much better.
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This is pretty dumb. How hard is it to assign a serial # to each groupset? Their warranty process is just pure laziness. The EDS TX is already in Shimano 105 Di2 AliEx pricing territory. At least with the 105 Di2, spare parts are plentiful and quality assurance to chance buying from a reseller is much better.
Agreed. Business wise, it's akin to shooting yourself in the foot. It's even remarkably stupid. Unless ofc they actively want the west not to buy their stuff, which might be the case, after all, as China is probably big enough for them to thrive. But then they wouldn't be selling to Aliexpress vendors. So it's probably just stupid.
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This is pretty dumb. How hard is it to assign a serial # to each groupset? Their warranty process is just pure laziness. The EDS TX is already in Shimano 105 Di2 AliEx pricing territory. At least with the 105 Di2, spare parts are plentiful and quality assurance to chance buying from a reseller is much better.
It has serials - I don't think it's a problem of identifying their own product but rather they've come the decision that the purchasing retailer/channel is who would handle warranty issues. For my issue with the adjustment screw, the AliExpress seller was happy to deal with it, I just had to get it back to them in China. I ended up just fixing myself.
Definately will limit acceptance outside of Asia until they can improve servicing globally. Unfortunate. It will be a small niche of people like the ones in here willing to accept the servicing hassles that will be buying.
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It has serials - I don't think it's a problem of identifying their own product but rather they've come the decision that the purchasing retailer/channel is who would handle warranty issues. For my issue with the adjustment screw, the AliExpress seller was happy to deal with it, I just had to get it back to them in China. I ended up just fixing myself.
Definately will limit acceptance outside of Asia until they can improve servicing globally. Unfortunate. It will be a small niche of people like the ones in here willing to accept the servicing hassles that will be buying.
Yeah, especially with electronic... When you buy a Chinese mechanical group, a lot of the times you can replace the parts with Shimano or Sram when something is not right... If your Chinese electronic group fails you could be out of a bike for 6 weeks...
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Save us magene
This is quite literally Magene's warranty policy: https://support.magene.com/hc/en-us/articles/900002358986-Warranty (https://support.magene.com/hc/en-us/articles/900002358986-Warranty)
I got served this bullshit when the integrated chainring on my $500 QED crankset/powermeter went out of true. They sent me a new chainring "out of generosity", but never refunded me. I'm pissed. They damn well know the product is defective because they pulled it from the shelves, but never made me whole.
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Read somewhere else that SRAM lost their lawsuit against wheeltop and had some patents invalidated in china, meaning all chinese groupsets can be fully wireless from now on
Not sure how trustworthy that is until a local or insider confirms but this seems huge
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Whoa, the EDS TX weather sealing is impressive! The ER9/X would be flat out dead if they tried this test!
https://www.facebook.com/reel/744011111161408 (https://www.facebook.com/reel/744011111161408)
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Did anyone notice Wheeltop is now advertising 3-14 speed cassette compatibility? I didn't even know 14 speed cassettes existed? Lol
https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur (https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur)
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Did anyone notice Wheeltop is now advertising 3-14 speed cassette compatibility? I didn't even know 14 speed cassettes existed? Lol
https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur (https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur)
14 speed is pretty outdated now, if you aren't riding 1*15 you're shooting yourself in the foot
https://www.instagram.com/themonstergravel/
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What they are stating is fair. As far as in Europe (and maybe in other countries as well), it's the store who needs to provide warranty cases with the consumer and not the company of the product. So if you claim warranty, you need to contact your seller rather than directly Wheeltop.
well, it is the cheapest way for them to sell..they do not have to cope with any european law!
If a dealership would decided to sell the product would immediately trigger alot of costs for this company, to fulfil the law.
Ce certification, no fake one
ANT+ license has to be paid
The brand has to be registred in europe in several systems, if not it is illegal to sell and the distributor/dealer will be held responsible.
The ce certification is pretty tricky with having involved wireless, batteries charging etc..
all these products must be tested..
We have been trying to persuade ltwoo, but they do not care and sell via aliexpress.
so with all these costs involved we end up having loads of costs to cope with laws....all this with seller on Alixepress selling cheaper than we bought our er9s directly...
so the rather sell without any problems via china.....
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This is different. they are saying that the only way to buy their products is via their website.
what you are saying is what LTWOO is doing for eg, which is, in case of warranty issues, you contact your reseller, and the reseller liaises with LTWOO. I know that 1st hand, given i'm now on my 3rd dead ER9 RD, and every time i go through the reseller, which is torture.
Well, if oyu think going directly is a blast..no way....
The sellers just do not care....
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Idk how it is to deal with Ltwoo directly. What i do know is that dealing with my reseller is torture.
well,
they only respond if you order, otherwise, you are ghosted.
They basically do not care if problems occur..they fail sending me documents...we offered to translate the app to germany, no response.
They promised so many things which did not happen....
i am selling off my grt stock for low prices...if anyone wants a groupset, i will offer better than aliexpress prices including shipping, i just want to get rid of them..even mechanic groupsets work fine...
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BTW…
Concerning customer service…
I did email wheeltop directly and they responded in less than 24hours!
just for info
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well,
they only respond if you order, otherwise, you are ghosted.
They basically do not care if problems occur..they fail sending me documents...we offered to translate the app to germany, no response.
They promised so many things which did not happen....
i am selling off my grt stock for low prices...if anyone wants a groupset, i will offer better than aliexpress prices including shipping, i just want to get rid of them..even mechanic groupsets work fine...
That's bad. With a beta product, you have to have an open communication with the manufacturer, otherwise it's not beta, it's just shit.
That behavior is potentially a bigger red flag than the failure rates of their groups themselves.
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I really wonder why Joe hasn't made a Wheeltop video yet, I know he has one.
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Prepped last night for a longer ride today. Bike shifted fine. App stated 90% battery for both batteries. Today, started my ride and the front derailleur wouldn't shift, Rode the about 60 miles in the small chainring. When I got home, I removed the CR2032 button battery. Voltage measured .87 volts. Installed a new battery and all is well. I recommend replacing the "Lynkcell" brand CR2032 battery with high quality Batteries. Who would think that with only 500 miles on the EDSTX kit, the button battery would be bad.
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Is the EDS TX coming with pre installed brake pads?
And also: my frame only supports 140mm front and back discs. Will this be compatible with the EDS TX?
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Yes….and
Yes
Pads installed
And both front adapters 160/140 in the box
also all lines filled with mineral oil…
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Yes….and
Yes
Pads installed
And both front adapters 160/140 in the box
also all lines filled with mineral oil…
oh wow really also pre filled with mineral oil? I thought i'd need to bleed it myself.
Is there any go to brand for disc brakes from china? I need a 6 hole 140mm disc...
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Except.... Yes, they come with prefilled mineral oil, but my rear hydraulic hose was about 80mm to short, for my bike, so I had to put on a longer hydraulic hose and completely bleed the rear caliper/lever chamber.
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Did they increase the price of these units substantially since release? I saw some earlier videos where folks said they purchased the groupset for 500$ ish.
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toxin claimed on WW a while back the RD could clear 40T, but are there real world reports on this?
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Customer review on the official site claims he tested it with no issues
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Did they increase the price of these units substantially since release? I saw some earlier videos where folks said they purchased the groupset for 500$ ish.
I paid around $600 USD with using Eliexpress discounts, coupons and coins, for a hydraulic kit on March 18th. I recall seeing the cable brake version priced at $500 but they were listed as "not Available"
Therefore I concluded, that there has been around a $50 increase since they first became available on Aliexpress. Hopefully by the 11-11 sale, prices with be lower than I paid, and I can purchase another set.
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well,
they only respond if you order, otherwise, you are ghosted.
They basically do not care if problems occur..they fail sending me documents...we offered to translate the app to germany, no response.
They promised so many things which did not happen....
i am selling off my grt stock for low prices...if anyone wants a groupset, i will offer better than aliexpress prices including shipping, i just want to get rid of them..even mechanic groupsets work fine...
Are you testing several EDS TX groupsets to become EU/DE distributor?
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I received my first Wheeltop "Pre-order" E-mail yesterday. The prices are listed in Euros. At the bottom of the email is a USA address: (No phone number)
Wheeltop
820 N River St. Portland, Oregon
97227
United States.
Looks like Wheeltop has a USA presence
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I received my first Wheeltop "Pre-order" E-mail yesterday. The prices are listed in Euros. At the bottom of the email is a USA address: (No phone number)
Wheeltop
820 N River St. Portland, Oregon
97227
United States.
Looks like Wheeltop has a USA presence
Interesting choice to setup shop in Portland. They'll definitely be testing their groupset water proofing there (rains a lot). Great city for cycling and especially gravel!
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Are you testing several EDS TX groupsets to become EU/DE distributor?
Nope , not worth the effort
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Just a quick update on my EDS TX Road rim brake group.
Have logged a decent amount of training miles and did two 60-70mi group rides with some climbing.
Overall, the experience has been good. Three issues have been bothering me:
1) In certain gears (7 and 4) when shifting down I get some “clicking” like its not fully seated. This is after I used the “fine tuning adjustment” in the work stand. However, for the troublesome sprockets, if I shift down one gear and then back up to the one that makes noise, it goes away. Just an annoyance.
2) On occasion, it will overshift, almost aways on the downshift. Again this is in the middle gears. It only happens once in awhile. A simple upshift drops it in the correct gear.
3) “Racing Mode” has never worked for me. I’ve attempted multiple times to enable racing mode but it just skips 2-3 gears with every press of the shifter. So, I’ve only used it in Casual Mode.
Today, I decided to do some more fine tuning with the app. Wheeltop pushed an update for the app and firmware updates for all the group components. I ended up starting over with the initial calibration and went one by one readjusting each cog. I was able to eliminate issues 1 and 3. All the gears shift up and down without issue. Racing mode now works. Time will tell if issue 2 continues or not. I’ll be putting quite a bit of training miles on it tomorrow.
Hopefully the firmware upgrades made a difference.
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For your issue #2, double check your "B" screw setting. At one point in my tuning, I had an extra link in my chain and in order to make it shift smoothly I had to adjust the "B" screw in to pull the derailleur farther back. For some reason, I had the same issue as you. I removed another link, and was able to unscrew the "B" screw some more, re-adjusted my trims, and the over-shifting went away.
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Interesting choice to setup shop in Portland. They'll definitely be testing their groupset water proofing there (rains a lot). Great city for cycling and especially gravel!
I've ridden it a few times in the rain so far it held up fine. Just make sure you clean it up after the ride especially for the chrome parts to avoid corrosion.
I had an issue recently with the 6th to 7th gear shifting but the local bike guy sorted it for me. Minor issue aside, its been pretty much uneventful using the groupset since February 2024.
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So, I received the Wheeltop EDS TX groupset from AliExpress and naturally I’ve run into issues. Maybe someone here can help. After following the instructions for pairing and connection to the app, neither has happened. The derailleurs are to be connected to a power source then removed (rear first then front) and the lights will both blink blue. The issue I have is the RD light starts blue then turns green and stays green as opposed to blink green then flash blue. The FD blinks blue (ready to pair) but no pairing will happen because the RD stays green. I’ve contacted Wheeltop and they’ve sent the pairing video and told me “it needs connected.” Anyone have the same issue?
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"Wheeltop pushed an update for the app and firmware updates for all the group components. I ended up starting over with the initial calibration and went one by one readjusting each cog. I was able to eliminate issues 1 and 3. All the gears shift up and down without issue. Racing mode now works. Time will tell if issue 2 continues or not. I’ll be putting quite a bit of training miles on it tomorrow."
I applied the firmware update for the ANT+ cycling computer gear display. I'm using a Stages DASH L50. It now shows front and rear gear position. However the gears are shown in reverse. When in the large front chain ring, the display shows it to be in the small ring. Same issue in the rear. When I'm in 1st gear, smallest cog, the display shows the chain in gear 12, the largest cog.
I'm not sure how to correct this. Has anyone else encountered this quirk or have thoughts on making adjustments to show the proper gear?
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I received a response from Wheeltop regarding the reverse gear display.
"Regarding the issue you described where the gears are shown in reverse on the display, please note that our gear display has always defined gear positions in a reverse manner. This is a known behavior and does not affect the normal functionality of the gear display or your cycling experience."
It would seem that this is by design. It may not "affect [sic] normal functionality" but is confusing since it is not intuitive as the size vertical bar doesn't represent the gear size. It also breaks from the convention used by the other major manufacturers of electronic groupsets.
Can only hope they see the error in their ways and release another update.
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have connected my EDS-TX to my Bryton Rider 420.
Since then, I have made a visual walkthrough video for reference.
youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA
https://youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA (https://youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA)
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have connected my EDS-TX to my Bryton Rider 420.
Since then, I have made a visual walkthrough video for reference.
youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA
https://youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA (https://youtu.be/HTtnzaepHDA)
The gearing is not backwards for you right? It's in reverse order on my Karoo2.
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For the record, on the Bryton Rider 420 here are the gear set ups:
Front Derailleur:
Gear 1 - Small Chainring
Gear 2 - Big Chainring
Rear Derailleur
Gear 1 - Biggest Cog
Gear X (depending on speeds) - Smallest Cog eg. 10T/11T/12T
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The gearing is not backwards for you right? It's in reverse order on my Karoo2.
Does it have any issue for you to set up the gears correctly and display accurately on the Karoo2?
Could be more of a Wheel Top quirk on top of anything else.
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Just got my Wheeltop cable brake groupset from Aliexpress. Easy to install on the bike. Went to initial install lined the rear derailleur up with the small cog and set the limit screw then wanted to set the limit screw on the large rear cog and could only get the derailleur to move to cog 8 on a ten speed cassette. After a lot more fiddling and frustration the rear derailleur is stuck on the large cog at the back. On the app this is shown as gear 1. Somehow I have moved the starting gear as the large cog. Not sure how I did this. Is there a simple way to return the derailleur to its original setting (reset button) so that I can start all over again or is there a simple way of getting gear 1 back to the small cog on the rear cassette?
Also is there some easier set up instructions for the gearing?. The Wheeltop manual is pants and confusing!!
Any help greatly appreciated
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Hmm…ya, setup could be a pain…
However, have you checked die values in „finetuning“ in the App. At least there is button to revert to original values.
Have you checked if you reversed to paddels on the RH lever?
And you could reach out to wheeltop directly, they reply in 12-24h usually.
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many thanks for the reply.
Will have a look at those tomorrow when I can play with it again and will send Wheeltop a message as well.
I think reverting back to the original values has no effect on the derailleur as it is as the values all look normal.
I think it is to do with the starting position. It thinks cog 10 is cog 1.
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Yes, been there.
Go to initial calibration under equipment debugging and manually move the front and rear derailleurs to the positions shown under debugging shifting. Then exit and proceed with fine tuning. I learned to always shift to the large ring in front and the smallest cog in the rear before going back to initial calibration or it calibrates to your current gear position and messes everything up.
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Many thanks yes that sorted it.
I also find the rear derailleur charger cover doesn't stay in place is there a secret way of getting it to work or should I just use a bit of electrical tape?
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800 bucks for a group this iffy when Rival AXS can be had for 200 bucks more greymarket doesn't make sense to me.
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Many thanks yes that sorted it.
I also find the rear derailleur charger cover doesn't stay in place is there a secret way of getting it to work or should I just use a bit of electrical tape?
Glad you got your derailleur working.
As for the cover, its just a matter of pushing one side/edge in and then holding that in with one hand/finger and using cross pressure with another finger or other hand to slightly bend the cover while pressing the opposite side down in place. Once in it does seem to stay.
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800 bucks for a group this iffy when Rival AXS can be had for 200 bucks more greymarket doesn't make sense to me.
I think the only advantage this one have is that it works with "smaller cassets" but yeah the full SRAM rival online costs 1000eur new with all the pieces (rotors, crankset, cassete etc) so yeah.. I've skipped it and went for the solid and reliable approaches
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800 bucks for a group this iffy when Rival AXS can be had for 200 bucks more greymarket doesn't make sense to me.
I agree that the price doesn't present a great option for a new build compared to grey market Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival. I would expect that there are three main markets for this group:
- those looking to upgrade an existing 10-11 speed mechanical bike to electronic
- those who already have other cranks/chains/cassettes already
- those on rim brakes
For me, I'm definitely interested in putting it on a rim brake bike, but I will wait until the price is closer to L-Twoo ER9 (350-400 USD). I expect prices will come down over time. It will also be interesting to see the pricing of the Magene option when it's available (though I expect it's still quite a while off yet).
Looks like they've sent groups to a whole bunch of YouTubers across a variety of languages so they're clearly pretty keen to go with the influencer marketing route - hopefully we see some positive long-term reviews out of it.
It will also be interesting to see if we can start getting it as an OEM option with Chinese frames - that could result in some pretty aggressive pricing for full builds or even frame/groupset combos.
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Once I had got it installed and working I was really impressed with it. It cost me £445 and as I had a titanium 10 speed rim brake bike I wanted to upgrade it was the only real option. I'm really impressed with it and the minor niggles you have with most systems. The performance and cost makes up for any minor problems.
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I have experienced this happening 3 times now. The latest was this scenario.
While riding up a long, about 8% grade, I need to downshift. I click the paddle switch and there no shift. I keep tapping the paddle and still nothing. I stop and look at the LED on the shifter. it glows when I push the paddle. I bounce the bike up and down several times and then I can see the derailleurs LEDs turn on. I shift again and the rear derailleur shifts.
It appears that my system is going to sleep on long steeper climbs and wont turn on unless I have some sort of larger impact to the vibration sensor/s. I am starting to wonder if the vibration sensors are not sensitive enough, and/or do not work at steeper angles. (This is happening on gravel road climbs, not smooth asphalt, so there is a lot of bike bouncing and road impacts.) (I have about 800 miles on the this EDS TX.)
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Some findings about derailleur.
Looks like the FD battery is removable, but there is sealant between the battery and the derailleur body (pic 1) and I found a report of water ingress through that gap between the battery and body (pic 2). And some device insides as a bonus.
Additionally, there is a report of PCB corrosion caused by condensation due to temperature changes (dew point).
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Is that corrosion I see on one terminal of the battery to how it mates with the derailleur pins?
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Yes, been there.
Go to initial calibration under equipment debugging and manually move the front and rear derailleurs to the positions shown under debugging shifting. Then exit and proceed with fine tuning. I learned to always shift to the large ring in front and the smallest cog in the rear before going back to initial calibration or it calibrates to your current gear position and messes everything up.
Hey, quick update. I followed this advice and started my initial calibration all over last week. After that I did a few minor fine tuning adjustments. Went on some good training rides this weekend. Happy to report my EDS TX rim groupset is running smoothly and quietly with no gear skips. Additionally, I shortened my chain by one link and got the b-screw a little closer without losing tension on the chain.
I have gotten it wet and muddy from road spray but I have ridden it in any downpours. I hope the waterproofing is addressed in future iterations. For the price I have been very satisfied with this group (despite the slow shifting of the FD).
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Is that corrosion I see on one terminal of the battery to how it mates with the derailleur pins?
Yes.
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Additionally, there is a report of PCB corrosion caused by condensation due to temperature changes (dew point).
Here's the picture of those PCB.
As an addition the picture of a shifter button and a report about shifter water ingress.
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Here https://youtube.com/watch?v=-k5TzYEYwJg you can see that RD battery easily removable, i hope Wheeltop will sell batteries separately as other spare parts. Also video contains some instruction to prevent water ingress, you can turn on auto translation for subtitles, they are decent.
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Wheeltop will show new products at Eurobike. I assume that EDS GeX is the gravel version.
7800 looks almost the same current 7000 version, except for the OSPW cage. I wonder if this is just a new OSPW cage or something else new? Does anyone know if the cage is removable on current version of EDS TX?
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The cage of the current EDS TX is removable. I found out last weekend when I attempted to fit a Token OSPW to it. Unfortunately, they have a proprietary pulley cage assembly that is not compatible with Shimano style cages. The stock cage is actually reasonably well built.
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Seems like Wheel Top has their proprietry OSPW derailleur cage on Facebook post under the 7800 series group.
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=449066987943675&set=pcb.833422321652215
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=449066987943675&set=pcb.833422321652215 (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=449066987943675&set=pcb.833422321652215)
Also to note, the GeX groupset for gravel is coming along soon it seems.
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Hello everyone. New here.
Received rim brake groupset yesterday. Installed it today. Wireless does make some things easier but the need to fine tune in order to get everything working perfectly took a lot longer than mechanical shifting. With load (i.e. actually riding bike), had to tune it some more. Will go for a real ride tomorrow.
The question I have is what torque do you apply to the shifters? The user guide states 10-12Nm. That's really high compared to other brands. I'm using carbon bars and normally, 6-7Nm is sufficient to prevent the shifters from moving for Shimano/SRAM shifters that I've installed before. At 6Nm, these shifters can be moved very easily. I've to go around 9Nm to get them to stay and I didn't try to use that much force to move them.
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What is this thing on the crankset?
(https://i.imgur.com/ietVEXW.png)
Is it the back of the left crank or a PM in the same place as the shimano PM?
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What is this thing on the crankset?
(https://i.imgur.com/ietVEXW.png)
Is it the back of the left crank or a PM in the same place as the shimano PM?
Ooks like the back of the other arm. The lines seem to match the patern
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Hello everyone. New here.
Received rim brake groupset yesterday. Installed it today. Wireless does make some things easier but the need to fine tune in order to get everything working perfectly took a lot longer than mechanical shifting. With load (i.e. actually riding bike), had to tune it some more. Will go for a real ride tomorrow.
The question I have is what torque do you apply to the shifters? The user guide states 10-12Nm. That's really high compared to other brands. I'm using carbon bars and normally, 6-7Nm is sufficient to prevent the shifters from moving for Shimano/SRAM shifters that I've installed before. At 6Nm, these shifters can be moved very easily. I've to go around 9Nm to get them to stay and I didn't try to use that much force to move them.
I think i've seen trace velo on YT use a bit of plastic wrap around the area to increase friction? i'd have thought the max torque would be dictated by the bars, because that's what is at risk of cracking. 6-7nm sounds right. 10-12 sounds very high indeed. on carbon bars, i'd be afraid to tighten that much. obviously on alu, you don't care.
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I think i've seen trace velo on YT use a bit of plastic wrap around the area to increase friction? i'd have thought the max torque would be dictated by the bars, because that's what is at risk of cracking. 6-7nm sounds right. 10-12 sounds very high indeed. on carbon bars, i'd be afraid to tighten that much. obviously on alu, you don't care.
I took it apart and put some gorilla tape under the bands of the shifters. It is better but still needed 8Nm to keep it from moving easily. My guess is if I try hard enough, they will still move by hand. Took the bike for a short ride and they didn't move from tucking at them on climbs.
Got a lot of thoughts on my experience installing the groupset, setting everything, fine-tuning, ergonomics, shifting performance, etc. For now, the most important thing is the shifting is beyond my expectations for what I paid for it ($618 CDN).
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It looks like sellers on Aliexpress are getting ready to sell the gravel version.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007264127222.html
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Nice to see 51t compatibility confirmed! Could have something really interesting here.
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007253046462.html
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It would be nice if they offered a 2x version.
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Today, I started the app to check battery after ride and got a fault code after communication was established. In fact, the log showed it twice within seconds. The error message is "Magnetic encoder abnormality". The error code is 20. The "Equipment type" is "front". Anyone experience this?
I tried everything after and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Also, when closed and opened the app again, it didn't have any fault.
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Now you can buy spare parts for this groupset, or just buy it without box and brake calipers.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005006988487937.html
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https://www.instagram.com/p/C9PiWp2PVZT/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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They use a 32T if not 30T cassette to showcase it..... ::)
No word on 2x either
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They use a 32T if not 30T cassette to showcase it..... ::)
No word on 2x either
Seems that they are just using old pictures with aroad EDS TX on an Elves bike.
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I bought and received the eds tx few days ago from wheeltop Europe.
I test it the first minutes after the batteries loaded. Any problem but when I try the app, I updated all the firmwares because he told me. After that, no more derailleur working. The shifters do not give any signal to the derailleurs. I tried pairing but nothing at all. I do not know what to do. Thank you for your help. THANKS
Richard from france.
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I bought and received the eds tx few days ago from wheeltop Europe.
I test it the first minutes after the batteries loaded. Any problem but when I try the app, I updated all the firmwares because he told me. After that, no more derailleur working. The shifters do not give any signal to the derailleurs. I tried pairing but nothing at all. I do not know what to do. Thank you for your help. THANKS
Richard from france.
Does led on your shifters flash when you press the button? Does your derailleurs work with the app, and does the app see derailleurs?
In the meantime try to switch batteries in shifters or install new CR2032 batteries.
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Hi, yes with the app I can control FD and RD and check the batteries of the shifters 3V.
But when I use the front shifter any green light, withe rear shifter only with the little I've a green light but any movement too !!!!!? I don't understand. It's crazy.
Richard
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Hi, yes with the app I can control FD and RD and check the batteries of the shifters 3V.
But when I use the front shifter any green light, withe rear shifter only with the little I've a green light but any movement too !!!!!? I don't understand. It's crazy.
Richard
The fact that you can use derailleurs via the app means that system "brain" in the rear derailleur is alright. If i understood you correctly, when you press the button on the front shifter - the led is flashing green, but when you press the button on the rear shifter - the led is flashing dimly and rear derailleur does not work.
I suggest you swap the CR2032 batteries in the shifters, or install new ones. I saw similar problem, in the app there was 3.12v but shifting didn't work, but with new batteries everything was fine.
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I I just bought some and replaced it but still nothing!!! There is no green light on the left and only green on the right on the small button. But still no movement!
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Since it still doesn't work, can someone explain to me exactly the pairing procedure? Maybe the thing is bad. It's not very clear in the manual. Thank you for your help. Richard
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Since it still doesn't work, can someone explain to me exactly the pairing procedure? Maybe the thing is bad. It's not very clear in the manual. Thank you for your help. Richard
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ8-Bi8NxWE
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Since it still doesn't work, can someone explain to me exactly the pairing procedure? Maybe the thing is bad. It's not very clear in the manual. Thank you for your help. Richard
Hello, I saw that there was also an accessories management part in the app where you are asked to scan the QR code of the shifters. Maybe we need to do this procedure for pairing but where are the QR codes then??? I'm lost and very angry.
Thanks.
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Hello, I saw that there was also an accessories management part in the app where you are asked to scan the QR code of the shifters. Maybe we need to do this procedure for pairing but where are the QR codes then??? I'm lost and very angry.
Thanks.
You said you bought the group from WheelTop Europe. If that's the case, did you try contacting them? I sent them a message on their website's contact us form and they got back to me somewhat quickly. I bought mine from Aliexpress so they didn't help me directly but if you bought it from them, I'm pretty sure they'll provide assistance to you.
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Here's another long-term review. Some key points (with timecodes) that make me doubt this product:
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=JHMSHH0__zzxd4wd&t=1202 - derailleur battery water ingress. Water may get between derailleur body and battery, which leads to contacts oxidation. Reviewer suggest to use some dielectric grease.
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=8knm6_ZSHrH8LkoD&t=1365 - derailleur position has inconsistency, depends on which direction you switch the gear, up or down.
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=7p-z_e2Iu5W-udJQ&t=1686 - demonstration of this problem with the chain.
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=_ZajossWHMnFm_bJ&t=1807 - the derailleur cage not made of carbon in the usual sense, it is made of "forged carbon" or from carbon fiber-reinforced polyamide composite, and the cage is flexy.
Same material used for brake levers, but they are strong enough. Interestingly, Shimano also uses similar material in their brake levers, you can see here https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=162876 that there is no large carbon sheets in the lever structure.
https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=JGfmfvKwvatbwflo&t=1879 - derailleur capacity, the reviewer observes chain slack, raising questions about the derailleur's capacity. However, Dave Noakes' review with identical gearing (50-34T and 11-34T) shows no such issue. Here https://youtu.be/q_v7m83xNwM?si=93qej-OCIJ8xxlTQ&t=1166 you can see derailleur cage on 50-34, and I'm not sure, whether the derailleur can accommodate a more extended chain wrap.
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all carbon derailleur cages and most other similar carbon parts are made this way, injection molded nylon mixed with carbon fiber shreds, doing it with cf sheets just isnt worth it
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all carbon derailleur cages and most other similar carbon parts are made this way, injection molded nylon mixed with carbon fiber shreds, doing it with cf sheets just isnt worth it
Good to know that this is common practice. But still, the amount of flex in the eds tx cage makes me doubt its quality and durability.
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Has anyone disassembled shifters? Brake levers have lateral play and clicks, I would like to take them apart.
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I posted this on the Facebook EDS forum. I had a concerning incident yesterday with my EDS TX hydraulic brakes.
Yesterday, on a gradual descent, coasting at around 25kph, (15mph) I was approaching an "S" curve on a trail that I ride numerous time per week. I wanted to apply a small amount of braking power, so I pulled on the brakes to slow down just a little to make the first turn. As I applied force to the levers, both levers "locked in place" at about 25% travel, and the hydraulic calipers did not brake on the rotors. This quickly became an "Oh Shit" moment! I pulled harder on the levers and they would not budge, and I was still accelerating into the turn. I dove through the turn to the next short straight section, let go of the levers, then tried quickly pumping them, but they were still locking at about 25% travel. Just as I was starting to panic, and my speed was now over 30kph (20mph), I pulled on the levers again and they worked normally, and I was able to slow down enough to make the next turn.
Has anyone else experienced "locked brake levers"?
This is very concerning and I don't have a clue why this happened. Now I have doubts that these brakes will work all the time in the future, braking power that I take for granted for my safety and life.
I have a 160 mile ride that starts this Friday July 19th that starts at midnight, and I have concerns that I will be coasting down a long descent and the brakes will not work again. I keep walking up to my bike and pull the brake levers to be sure they are still working....
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I posted this on the Facebook EDS forum. I had a concerning incident yesterday with my EDS TX hydraulic brakes.
Yesterday, on a gradual descent, coasting at around 25kph, (15mph) I was approaching an "S" curve on a trail that I ride numerous time per week. I wanted to apply a small amount of braking power, so I pulled on the brakes to slow down just a little to make the first turn. As I applied force to the levers, both levers "locked in place" at about 25% travel, and the hydraulic calipers did not brake on the rotors. This quickly became an "Oh Shit" moment! I pulled harder on the levers and they would not budge, and I was still accelerating into the turn. I dove through the turn to the next short straight section, let go of the levers, then tried quickly pumping them, but they were still locking at about 25% travel. Just as I was starting to panic, and my speed was now over 30kph (20mph), I pulled on the levers again and they worked normally, and I was able to slow down enough to make the next turn.
Has anyone else experienced "locked brake levers"?
This is very concerning and I don't have a clue why this happened. Now I have doubts that these brakes will work all the time in the future, braking power that I take for granted for my safety and life.
I have a 160 mile ride that starts this Friday July 19th that starts at midnight, and I have concerns that I will be coasting down a long descent and the brakes will not work again. I keep walking up to my bike and pull the brake levers to be sure they are still working....
This looks a very simple choice... If you value your life you stop using this groupset. I can't believe you are still thinking about riding it.
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I posted this on the Facebook EDS forum. I had a concerning incident yesterday with my EDS TX hydraulic brakes.
Yesterday, on a gradual descent, coasting at around 25kph, (15mph) I was approaching an "S" curve on a trail that I ride numerous time per week. I wanted to apply a small amount of braking power, so I pulled on the brakes to slow down just a little to make the first turn. As I applied force to the levers, both levers "locked in place" at about 25% travel, and the hydraulic calipers did not brake on the rotors. This quickly became an "Oh Shit" moment! I pulled harder on the levers and they would not budge, and I was still accelerating into the turn. I dove through the turn to the next short straight section, let go of the levers, then tried quickly pumping them, but they were still locking at about 25% travel. Just as I was starting to panic, and my speed was now over 30kph (20mph), I pulled on the levers again and they worked normally, and I was able to slow down enough to make the next turn.
Has anyone else experienced "locked brake levers"?
This is very concerning and I don't have a clue why this happened. Now I have doubts that these brakes will work all the time in the future, braking power that I take for granted for my safety and life.
I have a 160 mile ride that starts this Friday July 19th that starts at midnight, and I have concerns that I will be coasting down a long descent and the brakes will not work again. I keep walking up to my bike and pull the brake levers to be sure they are still working....
This is concerning. I've not had any issues with mine but now I'll be thinking about it whenever I ride. :'(
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I posted this on the Facebook EDS forum. I had a concerning incident yesterday with my EDS TX hydraulic brakes.
Yesterday, on a gradual descent, coasting at around 25kph, (15mph) I was approaching an "S" curve on a trail that I ride numerous time per week. I wanted to apply a small amount of braking power, so I pulled on the brakes to slow down just a little to make the first turn. As I applied force to the levers, both levers "locked in place" at about 25% travel, and the hydraulic calipers did not brake on the rotors. This quickly became an "Oh Shit" moment! I pulled harder on the levers and they would not budge, and I was still accelerating into the turn. I dove through the turn to the next short straight section, let go of the levers, then tried quickly pumping them, but they were still locking at about 25% travel. Just as I was starting to panic, and my speed was now over 30kph (20mph), I pulled on the levers again and they worked normally, and I was able to slow down enough to make the next turn.
Has anyone else experienced "locked brake levers"?
This is very concerning and I don't have a clue why this happened. Now I have doubts that these brakes will work all the time in the future, braking power that I take for granted for my safety and life.
I have a 160 mile ride that starts this Friday July 19th that starts at midnight, and I have concerns that I will be coasting down a long descent and the brakes will not work again. I keep walking up to my bike and pull the brake levers to be sure they are still working....
Well, both brake levers locked sounds very strange, as they are seperate hydaulic systems? never seen this before in the wild?
Regarding your 160 mile ride: if you can swap to another system, i would do so....not an enjoyable ride feeling downhill and in total?
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For real, stop riding that groupset. Thanks for posting it, this one instance is enough to deter anyone from considering it. I frequently go downhill at 40mph + and just the thought that brake levers locking up is giving me a panic attack.
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I performed a caliper inspection and cleaning followed by a rear brake fluid purge. I didn't find anything that I can blame the calipers for the problem. I am thinking that somehow, after heavily using them on the previous descent, the heat build up somehow increased the internal pressure of the pistons in the front levers and somehow pushed them forward and made them stick/lock. Since I was able to pump the levers back and forth, and they did start working again, in the back of my mind I am not as worried about a catastrophic failure/crash.
The question in my mind is how is the front hydraulic piston/actuator designed. Is there a way they can get pushed forward, say at a slight angle and become stuck? I haven't taken one apart to see what the innards look like. I would just about have to see a cross sectional view of the design, along with dimensions and machining tolerances to determine if there is a way for both of them to jam/stick at the same time. (As a side note: I have had a problem with what I believe to be a tolerance stack-up/machining problem on one of my EDS OX rear derailleurs, and Wheeltop customer service has been less than helpful. -I presume due to me purchasing the kit from an Aliexpress store - They call this an "unauthorized seller". Quite a cop-out because on this EDS OX derailleur this is a defective design/manufacturing problem.)
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well, i am not quite sure, but i have a durace tt lever, which let me down with leeking fluid...after is took it apart completely, i found a little rubber bladder, which basically gets squished when braking and after you let go, the lever gets to his homeposition.
Maybe the oil got hot and the bladder size increased...? Just an estimated guess :-
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What I find a bit weird though is, that this failure happened in 2 completely separated systems at the exact same time.
Not that I dare to question that, but concerning heat, front and rear would have different heat sink capabilities.
But yes, maybe kind of exploded view of STIs would shed some light on how system works.
Besides that I did a 120mi loop on gravel with about 20.000feet ups+downs and did not have a single moment of loss of braking.
However I would recommend to change from wheeltop brake pads to let’s say Shimano standard…either with heat fins or not.
Both fit and deliver better stopping power and modulation.
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Update: I had the brake lever pistons lock up twice on my long ride yesterday. (Brakes were working normally at the start of the ride.) The first time was about 4 miles after the start of the ride, after a short downhill where the brakes were lightly used to control my speed. I was in a pack and as we came up to a stop sign, I pulled on the brakes to slow with the pack, and both brakes levers were locked up. I veered out of the pack, while pulling harder on the levers, and I felt a slight "pop" and they were working again.
The second time was at the top of a 6 mile climb where I hadn't used the brakes in quite some time, I pulled on the brakes at the top of the climb, and only the right lever was stuck. (The one I purged with new mineral oil ) The Left/front brake worked normally.
It is becoming clear to me that there it is something in the brake lever hydraulic/piston side of things that becomes stuck. As soon as I can allocate the time, I will have to take one apart and see if I can find what is causing this problem. On the flip side. The ride had over 12K of climbing/descending, and on all of the long high speed descents, the brakes worked really well without any problem.
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Update: I had the brake lever pistons lock up twice on my long ride yesterday. (Brakes were working normally at the start of the ride.) The first time was about 4 miles after the start of the ride, after a short downhill where the brakes were lightly used to control my speed. I was in a pack and as we came up to a stop sign, I pulled on the brakes to slow with the pack, and both brakes levers were locked up. I veered out of the pack, while pulling harder on the levers, and I felt a slight "pop" and they were working again.
The second time was at the top of a 6 mile climb where I hadn't used the brakes in quite some time, I pulled on the brakes at the top of the climb, and only the right lever was stuck. (The one I purged with new mineral oil ) The Left/front brake worked normally.
It is becoming clear to me that there it is something in the brake lever hydraulic/piston side of things that becomes stuck. As soon as I can allocate the time, I will have to take one apart and see if I can find what is causing this problem. On the flip side. The ride had over 12K of climbing/descending, and on all of the long high speed descents, the brakes worked really well without any problem.
sorry for this quote but: you deserve a darwin award.....i would not like to have you riding behind me on a steep descent with this kind of material!
dont get me wrong, but it is one thing if you bump into a wall but getting bikemates in danger is not a polite thing to do...
i would not touch the brakes, it is the sellers or manufacturers duty to take care of this kind of quality issues....
Stay alive mate!
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Update: I had the brake lever pistons lock up twice on my long ride yesterday. (Brakes were working normally at the start of the ride.) The first time was about 4 miles after the start of the ride, after a short downhill where the brakes were lightly used to control my speed. I was in a pack and as we came up to a stop sign, I pulled on the brakes to slow with the pack, and both brakes levers were locked up. I veered out of the pack, while pulling harder on the levers, and I felt a slight "pop" and they were working again.
The second time was at the top of a 6 mile climb where I hadn't used the brakes in quite some time, I pulled on the brakes at the top of the climb, and only the right lever was stuck. (The one I purged with new mineral oil ) The Left/front brake worked normally.
It is becoming clear to me that there it is something in the brake lever hydraulic/piston side of things that becomes stuck. As soon as I can allocate the time, I will have to take one apart and see if I can find what is causing this problem. On the flip side. The ride had over 12K of climbing/descending, and on all of the long high speed descents, the brakes worked really well without any problem.
You might want to do an easy shakedown ride in the park or something before your next ride to see if it seizes up.
I hope you manage to find the source of the problem but you need to ride safely.
Its not just matter of your own personal safety but also safety to others - cant emphasize this enough!
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Update: I had the brake lever pistons lock up twice on my long ride yesterday. (Brakes were working normally at the start of the ride.) The first time was about 4 miles after the start of the ride, after a short downhill where the brakes were lightly used to control my speed. I was in a pack and as we came up to a stop sign, I pulled on the brakes to slow with the pack, and both brakes levers were locked up. I veered out of the pack, while pulling harder on the levers, and I felt a slight "pop" and they were working again.
The second time was at the top of a 6 mile climb where I hadn't used the brakes in quite some time, I pulled on the brakes at the top of the climb, and only the right lever was stuck. (The one I purged with new mineral oil ) The Left/front brake worked normally.
It is becoming clear to me that there it is something in the brake lever hydraulic/piston side of things that becomes stuck. As soon as I can allocate the time, I will have to take one apart and see if I can find what is causing this problem. On the flip side. The ride had over 12K of climbing/descending, and on all of the long high speed descents, the brakes worked really well without any problem.
Thanks for the updats, glad to see that you're alive and well. But that is absolutely terrifying, I would not want to ride this groupset or ride with someone that has experienced this in a group ride. Have you contacted L-twoo about this?
At least we know the rim brake version can't have this issue right? How could they fuck up just pulling a cable I wonder...
There's nothing to do with your groupset (at least no serious rides), the only thing you can try (for science) is to find a park or a huge patch of grass where you could naturally slow down in case of failures and try to spam the brakes (probably just one at a time so you have a "backup" if it seizes) with crazy force from high speed to see if you can somehow reproduce it. Of course all in a controlled environment again with no risks to you or others. Heat buildup should not cause this kind of problems. Either something is wrong with their piston/hydraulic system design or you have a faulty system, I'm hoping for the latter since so many peoples bought this groupset already...
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Had the wheeltop eds tx now for just over 2 months. Rode about 600 mile on it with no problem until yesterday when I started to get intermittent shifting and the derailleur wouldn't move . The shifter was sending the signal to move and I also used the app and that wouldn't move the derailleur. Reinstalled everything and re paired everything but that didn't make any difference. I have swapped the shifter batteries for new ones but haven't had a chance to ride yet to see if that makes a difference. Has anyone got any other ideas or things I can try. I'm out of ideas!!
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Had the wheeltop eds tx now for just over 2 months. Rode about 600 mile on it with no problem until yesterday when I started to get intermittent shifting and the derailleur wouldn't move . The shifter was sending the signal to move and I also used the app and that wouldn't move the derailleur. Reinstalled everything and re paired everything but that didn't make any difference. I have swapped the shifter batteries for new ones but haven't had a chance to ride yet to see if that makes a difference. Has anyone got any other ideas or things I can try. I'm out of ideas!!
You can contact the manufacturer for a warranty.
You can reset system through the app and reinstall all settings.
Or you can open your derailleur and and check for water ingress if your derailleur has been in contact with water.
Here is example how to remove the battery. https://youtube.com/watch?v=LLNrfIdh9r8
Here https://youtube.com/watch?v=-k5TzYEYwJg you can see that RD battery easily removable, i hope Wheeltop will sell batteries separately as other spare parts. Also video contains some instruction to prevent water ingress, you can turn on auto translation for subtitles, they are decent.
But you also need to check the main unit, the black box in the derailleur parallelogram, see this post and the attached pictures.
Here's the picture of those PCB.
As an addition the picture of a shifter button and a report about shifter water ingress.
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Trace Velo posted finally posted his review of the Wheeltop EDS TX:
youtu.be/PeoQ-bSFPwc
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This groupset is trash. You'd be stupid to buy it over a complete 105 di2 groupset.
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This groupset is trash. You'd be stupid to buy it over a complete 105 di2 groupset.
That is a harsh statement. Do you own a EDS TX kit? Even with the small issues I have had to date, I am enjoying the heck out of the EDS TX. (Since I purchased mine on sale before the prices started going up, for the price I paid, it blows away di2 and SRAM.)
Above being written, Wheeltop is now advertising a retail price that is about $200 over what its true value is compared to SCRAM and Scumano equivalent groups. They need to get their service together and stop forcing consumers who purchase THEIR product from an "unauthorized reseller" and solve their problems with their quirky APP and other random electro/mechanical problems that are popping up.
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That is a harsh statement. Do you own a EDS TX kit? Even with the small issues I have had to date, I am enjoying the heck out of the EDS TX. (Since I purchased mine on sale before the prices started going up, for the price I paid, it blows away di2 and SRAM.)
Above being written, Wheeltop is now advertising a retail price that is about $200 over what its true value is compared to SCRAM and Scumano equivalent groups. They need to get their service together and stop forcing consumers who purchase THEIR product from an "unauthorized reseller" and solve their problems with their quirky APP and other random electro/mechanical problems that are popping up.
You can buy complete 105 di2 group sets on sale now for $1200. You can even get full Ultegra for $1500. You won't even be able to assemble a decent wheel top + rest of groupset for that money. it makes no sense to buy it. It is both more expensive and inferior in performance. When one of the Chinese brands releases a FULL groupset for $1000 or less that is of adequate quality then we are talking serious competition. Until that happens they will not penetrate the market in a serious way.
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You can buy complete 105 di2 group sets on sale now for $1200. You can even get full Ultegra for $1500. You won't even be able to assemble a decent wheel top + rest of groupset for that money. it makes no sense to buy it. It is both more expensive and inferior in performance. When one of the Chinese brands releases a FULL groupset for $1000 or less that is of adequate quality then we are talking serious competition. Until that happens they will not penetrate the market in a serious way.
Cool story bro. ::)
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full 105 di2 is often under 1000€ on german sites and i've seen it as low as 800€ even on ali. i agree they should really knock the prices if they want to make damage
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Cool story bro. ::)
Just in case you weren't aware
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From my perspective:
This is the list of parts on my gravel bike equivalent to the Ultegra R8170 Groupo. This combo cost me less than Scumano, weighs significantly less. (I spent more than I would have had to by installing 48T, 32T rings instead of 34T, 50T.) I agree 100% that the current asking prices for the EDS TX is silly money compared to DI2 or SRAM offerings.
OTOH, we will see what sale prices are during the 11-11 sale. - I want to purchase another EDS TX for my road bike.
EDS TX kit - $515
Raceface Next R SL - E-bay sale $199.00
Race face spider - $25
Race Face bottom bracket - $45
Chainrings - 48T, 32T $50
KMC 12 speed chain - $32
ZTTO Ultralight cassette -12 spd -$85
Rotors - 180 front 160 rear - $30
Total $981
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From my perspective:
This is the list of parts on my gravel bike equivalent to the Ultegra R8170 Groupo. This combo cost me less than Scumano, weighs significantly less. (I spent more than I would have had to by installing 48T, 32T rings instead of 34T, 50T.) I agree 100% that the current asking prices for the EDS TX is silly money compared to DI2 or SRAM offerings.
OTOH, we will see what sale prices are during the 11-11 sale. - I want to purchase another EDS TX for my road bike.
EDS TX kit - $515
Raceface Next R SL - E-bay sale $199.00
Race face spider - $25
Race Face bottom bracket - $45
Chainrings - 48T, 32T $50
KMC 12 speed chain - $32
ZTTO Ultralight cassette -12 spd -$85
Rotors - 180 front 160 rear - $30
Total $981
But then I'm assuming the difference is much less when you combine shipping costs for shipping all those individual components from different retailers?
I think the big breakthrough in groupsets will come when one of the Chinese players can sell a quality FULL groupset. Until that happens, my advice to anyone would be to save your hard-earned money and buy a di2 105 full grupo. Current partial groupsets are just some shit from Toys R' Us at this point.
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Do the shifters rattle? I've now seen several videos of people complaining that on rougher roads, the shifters rattle.
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But then I'm assuming the difference is much less when you combine shipping costs for shipping all those individual components from different retailers?
I think the big breakthrough in groupsets will come when one of the Chinese players can sell a quality FULL groupset. Until that happens, my advice to anyone would be to save your hard-earned money and buy a di2 105 full grupo. Current partial groupsets are just some shit from Toys R' Us at this point.
Prices listed are total costs and include shipping and/or most of what I purchase from Aliexpress always has FREE shipping!
My Raceface Cranks came from Jenson USA with free shipping.
Di2 shifting sucks because of having to deal with the stupid battery pack. I hate extra wires! That kills the Scumano product for me. The Wheeltop product should be compared to SRAM rather than Scumano anyways. Wireless, and batteries connected directly to the devices.
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Do the shifters rattle? I've now seen several videos of people complaining that on rougher roads, the shifters rattle.
My shifters do not rattle. My levers are quite and mine are used on a gravel bike ridden a lot on single-track and rough gravel roads where the bike is beat to death. The only lever issue I had was in the spring wearing long fingered gloves, the paddles are sometimes difficult on rough terrain without contacting both of them.
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This groupset is trash. You'd be stupid to buy it over a complete 105 di2 groupset.
I got an original Cervelo S2 and it is an amazing bike. The only problem is the rear shifting due to the frame design (bad cable path). My dream has always been to put SRAM wireless shifting on it but at this point, that's not a realistic option. All I needed was to swap out the FD, RD, and shifters... and along came WheelTop with the exact solution. Got $125 CAD discount on AliExpress and bought the groupset for $618 CAD (free shipping and didn't pay a cent for duties).
It has been perfect (everything has already been documented) but pretty damn close. IMHO, anyone with rim brake bike should consider this upgrade option. The only negative is the slight weight increase since I'd swapped out SRAM Red shifters and Force derailleurs. From my experience, don't see how it's trash or it is stupid to buy over a complete 105 di2 groupset that doesn't exist.
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Do the shifters rattle? I've now seen several videos of people complaining that on rougher roads, the shifters rattle.
I've rim brake version. When riding, never heard any noise from the shifters. I've got them turned in A LOT and 99% of the time, I'm grabbing them in aero position. Not sure if that prevents any rattling.
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If my fingers/hands don't have some sort of contact with the shifters, they would rattle over bumpy terrain. You can test it by lifting up the front of your bike a few inches off the ground and dropping it. Not a deal breaker but it's there.
A rare occurrence for me as I would typically have my fingers on the shifters ready to brake on rough patches.
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Hi,
I have a 50-34t Shimano R7100 crankset and a 11-34 (12S) cassette.
Is anyone who uses the same configuration as mine, would be kind enough to share the value of the indexing gears ?
I have been trying for hours but I can't figure out the suitable values in order to prevent any unusual sound and have a smooth gear transition.
Cheers !
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Hi,
I have a 50-34t Shimano R7100 crankset and a 11-34 (12S) cassette.
Is anyone who uses the same configuration as mine, would be kind enough to share the value of the indexing gears ?
I have been trying for hours but I can't figure out the suitable values in order to prevent any unusual sound and have a smooth gear transition.
Cheers !
Not sure that this is the place for this, but let's have a go. For start, use the official indexing guide by Shimano located in the app and that will guide you through the process. If by unusual sound you mean clicking between 21t and 19t cogs I'm afraid that is unavoidable as 7100, 8100 and by some users 9100 cassettes are faulty and the gap between 21 and 19 is visually smaller and noticeable and that throws off shifting down the line. I am using r8100 groupset and that was driving me crazy. The remedy was to shim the space between the designated cogs by 0.1mm, easily done on 11-30 cassette as they are on separate spiders, but not sure for 11-34 as they might be on the same spider. Some say that KMC DLC 12s chain did the trick. Other option is to get the updated 7101/8101 cassette as Shimano was aware of the issue but never really recalled the faulty cassette and silently pushed the updated version. Third party cassettes are also an option.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v = y4jk2HMzTkE (remove space on both sides of the "=" sign)
Under this video you will find some useful tips.
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That is a harsh statement. Do you own a EDS TX kit? Even with the small issues I have had to date, I am enjoying the heck out of the EDS TX. (Since I purchased mine on sale before the prices started going up, for the price I paid, it blows away di2 and SRAM.)
Above being written, Wheeltop is now advertising a retail price that is about $200 over what its true value is compared to SCRAM and Scumano equivalent groups. They need to get their service together and stop forcing consumers who purchase THEIR product from an "unauthorized reseller" and solve their problems with their quirky APP and other random electro/mechanical problems that are popping up.
LMAO the butthurt was felt here. Why so salty ?
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I'd guess there will be a full V2 by the end of the year or early next year. Before Magene launch. WheelTop / Sensah / LTWOO have until then to get their houses in order.
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LMAO the butthurt was felt here. Why so salty ?
Salty helps one stay hydrated on long rides while using the Wheeltop EDS TX.
I'm not bitter! only irritated because "Wheeltop service" has been worthless for the problems I have experienced with their systems. First problem was on one of my EDS OX derailleurs where there was mechanical/physical rubbing of one of the pivot plates to the lower boss. - high speed ground the interfering part with a jewelry speed bit and a file. Then there is my mystery sticking of my EDS TX hydraulic brake levers where I temporarily cannot stop until the levers pop free after being pulled on.
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Anyone know if this groupset supports satellite shifters?
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Anyone know if this groupset supports satellite shifters?
105 Di2 doesn't have satellite shifters? Utter trash. Sounds like you should do an objective analysis on a better groupset!
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105 Di2 doesn't have satellite shifters? Utter trash. Sounds like you should do an objective analysis on a better groupset!
You can get Shimano Ultegra for less than $1500 now.
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The cheapest way to get satellite shifters is to go with SRAM if you are in the US.
House of Cogs on Ebay has Rival AXS Levers @ $300 per set
Bike Closet has D1 Force @ $320 per set
You can also pick up from Mikes Bikes:
Rival AXS RD $120
Rival AXS FD $90
Batteries: $47
Charger: $39
I think this should put you somewhere around $633-$660 + Tax for the shifting components.
With Force D1, you can use the Aliexpress sprint shifters, or with Rival, you can use the wireless blips. Its a bit more expensive than alloy EDS and on par with carbon EDS. With coupons, you are looking at spending an extra $100-$150. While you will need a new RD down the line the shifters are 13 spd compatible. This is probably worth it to many people over both Wheeltop and Ltwoo right now, given you can walk into a bike shop, and nearly any of them will help you warranty an SRAM part.
YMMV, but I broke an RD in a crash. I said I broke it in a crash. I have insurance that would have covered it, but SRAM insisted on a warranty exchange.
You do not need to use SRAM cassettes or chains if you don't want to, but I would as the Force / Red flat top chains are extremely economical at current prices (~$40), and they last a very long time with SRAM cassettes. You can just avoid the Rival chains.
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105 Di2 doesn't have satellite shifters? Utter trash. Sounds like you should do an objective analysis on a better groupset!
well .. you can connect sw-r9150 satellite shifters direct to the 12 speed battery while using an entire 105 di2 group if you really really really want...
like this: bt-dn300 -> ew-sd300 -> ew-ad305 -> sw-r9150
only costs a billion dollars, totally worth it.
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does anybody know what washer is used for bleed port bolt? I've lost mine
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does anybody know what washer is used for bleed port bolt? I've lost mine
Hi we are a wheeltop retailer in canada. Im sure my business partner can answer this question if no one else chimes in.
paul@ciclowerks.com
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Hi we are a wheeltop retailer in canada. Im sure my business partner can answer this question if no one else chimes in.
paul@ciclowerks.com
Where is your wheeltop listing for sale?
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does anybody know what washer is used for bleed port bolt? I've lost mine
You mean the shift lever one, right? Should be an m5 or m7 like ultegra or shimano 105. Don't bother much on details. Measure the screw and get a 1/1,5mm rubber washer
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Hi,
Anyone here, who runs a wheeltop MTB derailleur (long cage) with a a Shimano XT 11spd 11-46 cassette, single crank? I installed mine yesterday (used cassette, new XT 11s chain) following the official setup video. The sprockets 11-37 are working fine but it does not shift from 37 to 46. Tried to increase the fine tuning value step by step but it didn't work. When I go over a certain value, the derailleur moves but immediately moves back, seem to be some kind of safety measure.
Anyone here who has experience or can provide the fine tuning values for this cassette?
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I dont know if its been mentioned previously but there is an aluminium version (TX-RA7100-GS Alumium) on aliexpress now for £470.
Hopefully come next summer it will be around the £300 mark and on V2. Thats when I would take the plunge.
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7100 has been around for a while - the main one we're still waiting on from Wheeltop is 6100 (aluminium rim brake), which should be due pretty soon but I haven't read any updates for a while.
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Hi All,
I believe WheelTop will be releasing the new revised EDS TX7800 in due time, this time from the photos it looks like it going to be a complete groupset.
Here are some pictures and info I've gotten from the web.
https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Zgoj5uykk_cSwPv3hwqCtw
(https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_png/33AeibTgsDdjSVricqyXwduGnZFPzn5UGhRibfUsza8wjBicb33iaPhQRy9sqVPxsLukVXrMaEK0A9ZxCeF9PrSVuzQ/640?from=appmsg&wxfrom=5&wx_lazy=1&wx_co=1&wx_fmt=png&tp=webp)
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God I hope that OSPW isn't the only option
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God I hope that OSPW isn't the only option
The translation I ran on it says "The lower guide wheel adopts a hollow design, which is very technological, giving "empty benefits".
I lol'd.
I do think the groupset looks pretty damn good though!
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Yeah empty benefits is right
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I am hoping for two things from this:
1. The new parts can mix and match with the existing EDS TX
2. The FD is vastly improved
I'm actually super happy with what I have for the most part, but that FD is just awful.
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I am hoping for two things from this:
1. The new parts can mix and match with the existing EDS TX
2. The FD is vastly improved
I'm actually super happy with what I have for the most part, but that FD is just awful.
The FD and shifters are the same from the spec sheet in that link.
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I've decided to change wireless shifting systems. I've removed the EDS-TX derailleurs front and rear from my bike and am selling them in the classified section. If anyone is interested, you can use them for replacement parts, spare batteries or to upgrade another bike by adding an addition set of (Br)shifters from WheelTop, link to parts in the listing. You would still spend less than what the system is currently selling for.
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Does anyone know, which type of needles and olive the EDS TX uses? Their website says that these parts are proprietary, but on video, they look very similar to sram or magura.
Or if they are really incompatible with already existed models, where can I get a spare? A quick search on aliexpress showed nothing.
As I tried to install the brake hoses that came with the Wheeltop package, I noticed they were not of great quality. I've bought now Magura brake hoses, they were a better quality when I installed them. I've posted that in this thread: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4449.45.html
Long story short, I tried to find the correct oil pin and olive to use for the EDS TX because I didn't want to wait until it arrived from AliExpress and buy it here locally, I asked Wheeltop over Instagram, and their service desk from the website. The answer from Wheeltop was: "Regarding the type of hose, needle and olive, we recommend you to purchase the bh59 type." But the olive that I have doesn't look like a bh59 at all but more the shape of the Sram. When watching Oz Cycle his video about "setting up Wheeltop EDS gears on your bike" he says time stamp 3:13 if you were using Shimano you need to replace the barb & Olive. So in the end I bought from the Aliexpress seller a set of oil pins and olives including those standard brake hoses. The seller also said: "I also think that the quality of the hose is relatively ordinary. You can buy a better quality one locally"
So all in all, I still don't know which type fit's as I don't think it's the bh59, but if someone wants to try go ahead I didn't dare to try it.
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Hi we are a wheeltop retailer in canada. Im sure my business partner can answer this question if no one else chimes in.
paul@ciclowerks.com
[/quote
Hi Paul,
we contacted wheeltop for distributing in Europe...after asking for Ce Certs, ANT+, Bluetooth license, battery tests and certs and how they handle to patent infringement of the flatmount brakes: silence....did you get any helpful information]
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Wanted to highlight this, as i dont think it is widely known that the quality of the hydraulic hose matters. I didn't realize it was a thing until 1 week ago myself.
On this forum, there's a lot of discussion around mechanical disc brakes and the fact you NEED to use Jagwire KEB-SL kevlar hoses to maximize braking performance. Honestly, you're shooting yourself in the foot if you dont use that (may be irrelevant if you're very light, obviously, but i'm not)
Same story, I wasn't aware myself until I pulled them out and received the Magura ones, what a night and day difference. I might have shot myself in the leg, we will see, I'm not the lightest either sitting around 85kg. For checking a replacement, I considered the standard Shimano and Sram, I also checked the Jagwire but found a few reviews that people didn't like, so in the end I went for a Kevlar version of Magura. I wanted Kevlar to be a replacement because it's obviously better than the "normal" Aliexpress ones and I thought Magura isn't too bad either.
Anyway I didn't drove a single km or mile yet because I'm still waiting for my wheels. will report how it feels though, later on. Thanks for the awareness of Brake hoses and your experience as well.
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Interesting comments on hydraulic hoses. I'm on the stock ones and they feel great and are working fine. I'm about 100kg.
When I do major maintenance I will look into replacing the hoses but I am skeptical of any gains.
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Back in my motorcycle days I remember that steel braided brake lines for the brakes were all the rage among racers as it was supposed to improve the braking point. Dunno exactly if those are standard for cars. But IMO I've used stock Shimano ones, Magura ones and now on a recent build I used whatever LTWOO sends along with their stuff. I can't tell any difference and TBH I don't think on bike brakes there's enough oil pressure involved so that it really makes a difference, at least not as much of a difference as on a dual front brake with 4pistons per caliper and 300mm rotors on a superbike that goes 300kph. But with that being said, r2-bike.com in Germany sells exactly those "steel flex" hydraulic brake lines if you feel curious. They're almost 100EUR per 2.6 metres of brake line. I think I'll pass.
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Anyone tried the eds gx?
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Wheeltop aquires Spanish brand Rotor.
https://bikebiz.com/chinese-oem-wheeltop-acquires-majority-stake-in-rotor/
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Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!
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Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!
When you find out, let us all know. One of mine is almost completely stripped out and I could use a replacement.
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Will do! I ordered a generic bolt, we’ll see if it’s long enough. I also emailed Wheeltop so update when they respond.
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Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!
Yikes, is that bolt replaceable/removable on Wheeltop? Also aren't RD bolts only 5nm to tighten?
At least with Shimano shadow RDs, both the main bolt and shadow link bolt are both user replaceable. Even LTwoo's electronic RDs are designed that way.
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Yikes, is that bolt replaceable/removable on Wheeltop? Also aren't RD bolts only 5nm to tighten?
At least with Shimano shadow RDs, both the main bolt and shadow link bolt are both user replaceable. Even LTwoo's electronic RDs are designed that way.
Easily removed. Material sure is a soft aluminum... (Pics for your viewing pleasure.)
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Thanks for the pics!! Would you be willing to measure the length of the bolt minus the threads? Rookie mechanic here, first time using a torque wrench. (Also bought an Ali wrench). So I totally over torqued it. Doesn’t help that the bolt is so soft :’)
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Easily removed. Material sure is a soft aluminum... (Pics for your viewing pleasure.)
I've never seen an RD bolt that rounded. Wheeltop definitely cheap'ed out on material. I'm guess you're using decent hex wrenches and/or a proper torque wrench?
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This bolt is removed from my "problem" OX derailleur. It was installed and removed many times. During it's usage, the bolt came loose on the hanger several times. I had to tighten it "on the road" and probably tightened it more than 10NM. (It stripped over time, not right away.)
Overall length = 33.1mm
Length bottom of head to top of circlip = 23.30mm
Length bottom of the head to top of threads = 25mm
Main shaft diameter = 9.9mm
Head diameter = 14mm
Head thickness = 1.85mm
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Thanks for the measurements! Wheeltop just replied to me; all they said is it’s an M10 bolt haha. Update on the extraction: the kit I bought didn’t work. The extraction bolts couldn’t get any purchase unto the soft metal. Now I’m trying to super glue an Allen key into the bolt. Let me know if you all have any other ideas.
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A drilled hole extends about 13mm down into the bolt. I believe it is about 5mm in diameter. If I can't purchase a new one. I will attempt to tap the hole with the closest metric fine thread. Then I will take a button head screw with either a torx or Alan head and thread the screw down into the hole using either Loctite red or epoxy. (I probably will use either a stainless screw, or Titanium if I can find one I like.
When you go to remove yours, try to extract it using only the stripped hex area. This will preserve the rest of the hole that you might be able to tap per my approach stated above.
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Good news. Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site. (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.
https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt
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A drilled hole extends about 13mm down into the bolt. I believe it is about 5mm in diameter. If I can't purchase a new one. I will attempt to tap the hole with the closest metric fine thread. Then I will take a button head screw with either a torx or Alan head and thread the screw down into the hole using either Loctite red or epoxy. (I probably will use either a stainless screw, or Titanium if I can find one I like.
When you go to remove yours, try to extract it using only the stripped hex area. This will preserve the rest of the hole that you might be able to tap per my approach stated above.
I'm trying your method with red loctite! Super ugly bodge solution with the cheap tap set I found at a hardware store today, but I'm very hopeful. I'll update tomorrow with results.
Good news. Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site. (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.
https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt
That's incredible news! Are you in the US? If so, would you be interested in ordering an extra and mailing it to me? I'll contribute to the international shipping of course.
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Just FIY, I have asked the support about the compatibility between GEX and TX front derailleur : "EDS-TX is not compatible with EDS-GEX at this time, and the timetable is not available at this time" :(
Also they would not give a timeframe for the GEX 2x release but that is understandable "cannot share more details at this time"
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Still trying to figure out how to remove the derailleur from the hanger. What I tried yesterday was tapping out a thread, inserting a bolt with red loctite, and trying to unthread both once the loctite cured. Unfortunately, the silver but just unthreaded from the derailleur bolt. I’m trying again with more loctite and liberal usage of WD-40 around, but I’m not optimistic about attempt #2.
From what I understand, my next and probably last option is to drill all the way through the bolt, trying to maintain the threads on the hanger but buying a new one if necessary. Does anyone have another idea before I try the nuclear option?
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I have the impression that somehow you either cross threaded or had some sort of debris in the hanger threads that when you originally installed the derailleur onto the hanger,. it galled and locked up the bolt into the hanger threads.
You might try one more thing. Remove the wheel and drill a smaller hole from the back side and tap the hole. (M4 or M5) Use an Alan head, or button head bolt that is round and has perhaps an 8mm thread. Threading from the back will let you use these threads so that as this thread tightens onto the end of the derailleur bolt it will force the threads in the hanger to unscrew.
If this doesn't work, then you are already 1/2 way to going nuclear by drilling it out.
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What's the general consensus on this group set?
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I think there is no general consensus…just personal experiences.
That said, using it on my Gravel with 46/30+11/34 11spd…
Absolute no issues, working flawless…
Maybe 2 points which one should consider…
STIs rather on the smaller side compared to modern others (kind of first Shimano di2s like)
Front derailleur not one of the strongest when shifting under power…
Still pretty happy with it…
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From what I understand, my next and probably last option is to drill all the way through the bolt, trying to maintain the threads on the hanger but buying a new one if necessary. Does anyone have another idea before I try the nuclear option?
You have a removable derailleur hanger right? Why not remove the derailleur hanger (from the bike) with the RD still attached. It should be attached with some small hex screws or something. You can then turn the hanger from the bolt to remove it.
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You have a removable derailleur hanger right? Why not remove the derailleur hanger (from the bike) with the RD still attached. It should be attached with some small hex screws or something. You can then turn the hanger from the bolt to remove it.
To me it comes down to how much leverage he needs in order to turn the hanger on the bolt if he removes it from the frame. He may need more leverage than a loose hanger can be manually twisted by hand.
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To me it comes down to how much leverage he needs in order to turn the hanger on the bolt if he removes it from the frame. He may need more leverage than a loose hanger can be manually twisted by hand.
The more I think about it, this would probably be the least destructive step to take. As long as the RD hanger is removable, he can remove the Wheeltop RD and hanger still attached. He can use an adjustable wrench or vise clamp on the hanger and slowly unscrew the bolt from the hanger. Once the bolt tension is released from the hanger, the bolt should easily come off. Am I missing a something?
I'd also use something to wrap the RD hanger like a towel, to minimize any damage if using a wrench or vise.
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The ultimate nuclear option isn't even drilling the bolt, because if that didn't work he would have to hacksaw the RD hanger to release the tension. On the plus side the Wheeltop RD screw is only $6 USD and he can source a replacement hanger for his frame.
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I ordered 4 EDX OX hanger bolts today. Will take 2 to 3 weeks to be delivered.
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I took the hanger/RD off yesterday. The good news is I can (with significant force) rotate the hanger. It can’t do a full rotation because it’s a bit of a longer guy, would bump into the RD. In addition I think I’m missing something conceptually. The bolt isn’t threaded into the RD itself, is it? The threads only interact with the hanger. So spinning the hanger wouldn’t even loosen the RD.
I like the idea of tapping the backside!
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What's the general consensus on this group set?
I would say it’s good and I’m pleasantly pleased with it. Have ridden it all summer. No major issues. It’s definitely quirky and takes some time to get it running smoothly without any chain rub. RD shifting is quick and reliable. Running 11spd currently but might upgrade to 12spd just to see how it does.
FD is slow, really slow. I do not shift under load. I have mech 105 and Di2 DA 11spd and both are faster at shifting. All that said, I have never had an over shift or chain drop with the FD. Super reliable once set up. Previously, had SRAM Force for 1 yr, overshifting chain drops all the time… (small-big).
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Is anyone aware of a way to save the current gear settings? This would make changing wheelers a breeze with slightly different cassette placement
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Is anyone aware of a way to save the current gear settings? This would make changing wheelers a breeze with slightly different cassette placement
Screenshots :P though presets would be a great idea
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Help please - I'm trying to setup my GeX groupset, so EDS but 1x I guess.
Problem: I'm trying to initialise the rear mech, but it will not go down to sprocket 1 (smallest). On my 12 speed it will only go as low as cog 3, on my 11 speed it won't go past cog 2.
In the app I'm in initialise, trying to move it down/right, but it won't go any further, after a certain point a beep sound indicates there is no more down/rightward adjustment.
Any ideas? I haven't touched the limiter screws because it seems too odd for the limiter screws to be soooo far off when it's just out of the box, new. However, I have also noted that the top limiter screw isn't set because I can shift right off the top of the cassette.
Note that it does shift from gear 3 upwards, that's all working well, it knows that cog 3 is gear 3, but still won't go down to cog 2 or 1.
Without adjusting limiter screws, and this would be a big adjustment, I'm stuck and looking for help/ideas please.
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Hmm…did set up the eds tx road 2x11 and have the geX ready to build.
Now with the eds tx there is a function to avoid Xcross chaining like going beyond 3 when on the
little ring…
You can deselect it in the app….at least for the 2x11 eds…not sure if this also applies to geX
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Bought this groupset on AliExpress during the 11/11 sale, got the carbon disk version for €449 delivered between coupons and price adjustments. Used a shop called 'kyle outdoors store' hopefully they will help if there's any warranty issues.
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Without adjusting limiter screws, and this would be a big adjustment, I'm stuck and looking for help/ideas please.
What makes you assume the limit screws would be set correctly at the manufacturer? Even if they would want to do that, it's basically impossible as every bike is different.
Unscrew them all the way, then index the gears correctly, and last step is to set the limit screws. Check out some YT tutorials if you are unfamiliar with the process.
Hmm…did set up the eds tx road 2x11 and have the geX ready to build.
Now with the eds tx there is a function to avoid Xcross chaining like going beyond 3 when on the
little ring…
You can deselect it in the app….at least for the 2x11 eds…not sure if this also applies to geX
Cross chain protection on a 1x group set? That would be hella funny ;D
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Expect the unexpected….lol
Ok…GeX installed…and had also kind of interesting issue.
I did install a 12sp Shimano 710 cassette…which seemed to be okish on a normal 10/11/12 speed road freehub.
No spacer…
Without chain, derailleur was physical unable to move lower than 2. sprocket…
Now…install chain.…then, check limit screw to be no factor…then go to iniatial setup.
Somehow for me the adjustment of the 1. sprocket did not work.
By accident I shifted up to 12th sprocket and started initial setup again…now the derailleur thought
my 12th would be my 1st….(there is always a pop up to confirm if you are sure….lol)
Anyhow…I was able to fine tune this „1st“ sprocket all the way down to its correct position.
So…if you still struggle…you my try this.
Shift whatever speed …. 3rd or 4th…now start initial setup…confirm this to be 1st gear and then
finetune it all the way down to its realworld position!
That worked for me…
From there all gears worked correctly!
And I can confirm the short cage rear GeX weight is 403g
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Hey what's the verdict on the rim brake version of this groupset? My buddy recently picked up his dream titanium frame w/rim brakes and I suggested he give the Wheeltop TX a try.
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Its good, I’m satisfied. I would only spend 5-550.00 USD max on this groupset.
I just recently moved my rim brake version to another frame. Be prepared to play with it a lot to get it initially tuned. Once it is set, it does’t change much. The advice Nomuetez just provided is not uncommon. I encountered the same thing twice.
FD has given a lot of people problems in the rubbing/noise dept. I finally figured out why on my particular set. The FD does not naturally align with the chainring. I was able to bend my FD hanger by about 2mm to get the FD aligned. Now it shifts with zero rubbing.
Lastly, no issues riding in the wet. I don’t ride in the rai frequently but I get caught in storms here and there. I have noticed that some of the smaller screws and pins on both assemblies are not very weather resistant. I just mention because I found a few small parts that were either rusted or corroded. My bike is stored inside and cleaned after every ride. I didn’t see anything that caused me immediate concern but makes me wonder about longevity of the group.
I have a few thousand miles on it so far. Purchased in MAY24. Its been a fun upgrade from mech 105. No regrets so far.
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Is there any good tutorial for initial setup? I've this on the way for a new build
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Someone on this thread posted a good tutorial. BLUF:
set the FD up so that you are on the big ring
move the RD to the smallest sprocket (11t)
place a chain on it. Use the “initial calibration” function to align the RD with the 11t. Test shift. Repeat until you are comfortable with the shifting.
Next set the FD. After that is set return to the RD and test shifts in all gears up and down.
I have always encountered a little bit of noise or hesitation in gears 5, 6, and 7. Use “fine tuning” and move in 3-5 increments in either direction to get rid of the noise.
I have done this with 11spd Shimano cassette and chain. Last week, I moved the group to another bike and set it up for 12spd with a Goldix cassette and shimano 12spd chain. Using the same Ultegra 11spd chainrings. Performed flawlessly after all the tuning.
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Someone on this thread posted a good tutorial. BLUF:
set the FD up so that you are on the big ring
move the RD to the smallest sprocket (11t)
place a chain on it. Use the “initial calibration” function to align the RD with the 11t. Test shift. Repeat until you are comfortable with the shifting.
Next set the FD. After that is set return to the RD and test shifts in all gears up and down.
I have always encountered a little bit of noise or hesitation in gears 5, 6, and 7. Use “fine tuning” and move in 3-5 increments in either direction to get rid of the noise.
I have done this with 11spd Shimano cassette and chain. Last week, I moved the group to another bike and set it up for 12spd with a Goldix cassette and shimano 12spd chain. Using the same Ultegra 11spd chainrings. Performed flawlessly after all the tuning.
Thank you, I will use this to do my initial setup
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If you run into weird issues where it won’t shift the full range:
Check to ensure the FD is in the big ring. Cross chain prevention does not allow it to go into the last two gears if the FD is in the small ring.
Refer to Nomutze’s post above. Some times the RD needs to be manually moved out board to the smallest sprocket. This can only be done thru fine tuning.
Lastly, for any fine tuning adjustment to take place, you shift to the gear you are adjusting, make the adjustment, then shift up or down and back to the gear you adjusted. For every fine tuning you must shift in order for it to take.
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what olives pins and heads you can use for brakes? i read for bh59 but original looks like sram and magura. i find a seller which sell kit for wheeltop 25$ .
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As per their website … bh59
Now olive for bh59 and bh90 are the same…however insert are different in diameter…
I used existing ultegra hose with bh90 olive/inserts to build up the wheeltop hydraulics.
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As per their website … bh59
Now olive for bh59 and bh90 are the same…however insert are different in diameter…
I used existing ultegra hose with bh90 olive/inserts to build up the wheeltop hydraulics.
Didn't you have any bleading?
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To be precise…
EdsTX on my gravel….full wheeltop build…only had to cut hosings…was pre-filled…no bleeding!
GeX on my Road…using ultegra calipers and hose….no bleeding!
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To be precise…
EdsTX on my gravel….full wheeltop build…only had to cut hosings…was pre-filled…no bleeding!
GeX on my Road…using ultegra calipers and hose….no bleeding!
so you did't use bh59 to wheeltop calipers. thats the point , what olive pins we can use in wheeltop calipers or shifters
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It’s pointless…
As said…if you use wheeltop hose…use bh59 pin/olive…either end!
If you use higher standard hosing like Shimano ultegra/dura ace…use bh90 pin/olive
Olive same, pin different….
That’s it….
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It’s pointless…
As said…if you use wheeltop hose…use bh59 pin/olive…either end!
If you use higher standard hosing like Shimano ultegra/dura ace…use bh90 pin/olive
Olive same, pin different….
That’s it….
I m using magura post mount calipers with magura hose, on lever side i will use wheeltop olive but not sure about pin, should i use wheeltop one/ that should be inbetween sizes of bh59 and bh90? Or should i go with bh59 despite being slightly thicker.
I have read that magura pin is too ong for shimano levers and damage can happen, can it fit wheeltop levers properly?
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the wheeltop gang (much to my delight) are working on TT rig also.
like a rim brake 1x setup.
watch this space.
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Awesome! look forward to hearing about this.
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I m using magura post mount calipers with magura hose, on lever side i will use wheeltop olive but not sure about pin, should i use wheeltop one/ that should be inbetween sizes of bh59 and bh90? Or should i go with bh59 despite being slightly thicker.
I have read that magura pin is too ong for shimano levers and damage can happen, can it fit wheeltop levers properly?
From what I see I would not recommend using magura pin on wheeltop levers…as it’s designed around bh59/90 shimano standard … I’d rather use wheeltop insert/pin on the lever side…
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I installed the wheeltop eds gex on my steelbike, previously on rival1 11 speed and later 12speed with ratio kit... no luck going to smallest sprocket, with all the tension removed from the H screw and all microadjust to the limit in initial setup it s hesitant to go to smallest sprocket, installed the waser( RD and hanger bolt) that came with it, I found a solution that I don't like... unscrewing the RD bolt from the hanger makes it go further slightly and it works properly.
My cassete is a sunrace 12 speed 11-50 on a hg freehub, is it safe to add more spacers to make it go outwards? it's alreadytight, no loose sprockets, is adding wasers to the RD and hanger interface safe?
I will check if the issue is the specific frame, so i will pop the deraileur on my mtb and road bike and check.
From what I see I would not recommend using magura pin on wheeltop levers…as it’s designed around bh59/90 shimano standard … I’d rather use wheeltop insert/pin on the lever side…
I will install wheeltop everything on the lever side, thanks!
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Any recommendations for some got gripping pads for eds road groupset?
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Hi All,
I believe WheelTop will be releasing the new revised EDS TX7800 in due time, this time from the photos it looks like it going to be a complete groupset.
Here are some pictures and info I've gotten from the web.
https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Zgoj5uykk_cSwPv3hwqCtw
(https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_png/33AeibTgsDdjSVricqyXwduGnZFPzn5UGhRibfUsza8wjBicb33iaPhQRy9sqVPxsLukVXrMaEK0A9ZxCeF9PrSVuzQ/640?from=appmsg&wxfrom=5&wx_lazy=1&wx_co=1&wx_fmt=png&tp=webp)
Any idea when this will be released? 4 months on and still no more news as far as I can see.
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Any idea when this will be released? 4 months on and still no more news as far as I can see.
I'll be interested to see if they add an actual stabilizer screw (I think that is what it is called) to the front derauiler when the new group set
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Any idea when this will be released? 4 months on and still no more news as far as I can see.
Oh, hell no ... I hope they scrapped that garbage AB style lower jockey wheel. They'll fail in weeks.
Also surely they'll move to the new caliper design that GeX has? It's so much better.
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i Just install the wheeltop on my road bike and i have vibration from right shifter and i believe from buttons. when i hold it noise stop. if i don't have my fingers on it noise is like old car. is there any solution ;
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Yeah, I discovered this early on with my rim brake WT group. Basically, if you shine a light inside the paddle, you’ll see that the return spring is pretty weak. Depending on the road surface mine will rattle or buzz slightly. If you’re inclined, you could probably find a way to replace it with a stronger spring.
Mine doesn’t bother me enough to do anything about it.
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final i open it . ι have alloy lever and the noise suck.
problem is not the spring . noise come from the small button when touch the lever. i use sticker rubber for tube and noise dissapear.
i ll buy fabric tape to cover the inside place of lever
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Awesome! I’ll take look at mine and see if I have the same problem.
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Looking to get some nicer brake pads, what am I looking for guys? I ordered some swissstop pads but they where too big
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Interesting to me that is seems more people are using Ltwoo vs this new Wheeltop groupset. I am leaning more towards Wheeltop for my first electronic groupset.
Any info is appreciated. Where are you buying?
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This is my TX experience.
Installed the group on my gravel bike in April 2024. Loved them for the first 500 miles. Everything worked fantastic. Then, the brake levers started freezing/locking up and I had no brakes. Suffered through this for a while. Wheeltop wouldn't warranty them because they were purchased from and unauthorized seller.
Purchased a new set of brake levers. Installed them last fall. During installation and set-up, discovered that the RH/rear derailleur's shift paddles only shifted the derailleur one direction. (Either up or down) Spent endless hours trying to resolve the problem. Seller sent me a new RH lever. (Bike sat over the winter.) Last week I installed the new lever. Instant pairing and it works out of the bag. -One test ride to date. Longer ride today.
I am just starting to use this bike again. Time will tell what the next problem is...
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New to the post I would appreciate some help.
Installed the group set but I am having difficulty with the fine tuning. I am able to set the first gear (smaller cog) with minimal friction using the initial set up with arrow adjustment. I am also able to shift through all 12 cogs, but I find starting with the second gear noise in some of the cogs. When I try to use the fine tuning function using the App only it appears that I get no adjustment movement from derailleur. Am I missing something in the procedure of using the fine tuning? for example do I need to use the shifters in combination with the app fine adjustment set up? Or it is just simply the fine tuning function not working.
Would appreciate advise, thanks
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New to the post I would appreciate some help.
Installed the group set but I am having difficulty with the fine tuning. I am able to set the first gear (smaller cog) with minimal friction using the initial set up with arrow adjustment. I am also able to shift through all 12 cogs, but I find starting with the second gear noise in some of the cogs. When I try to use the fine tuning function using the App only it appears that I get no adjustment movement from derailleur. Am I missing something in the procedure of using the fine tuning? for example do I need to use the shifters in combination with the app fine adjustment set up? Or it is just simply the fine tuning function not working.
Would appreciate advise, thanks
If I recall correctly, you have to shift back to the smallest cog to get the fine running to work and did you try it with really big jumps in the number?
I'm still thinking whether I would build my bike with the Wheeltop or with a used Ultegra di2 11s
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If I recall correctly, you have to shift back to the smallest cog to get the fine running to work and did you try it with really big jumps in the number?
I'm still thinking whether I would build my bike with the Wheeltop or with a used Ultegra di2 11s
why not Ltwoo ERX or ER9?
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New to the post I would appreciate some help.
Installed the group set but I am having difficulty with the fine tuning. I am able to set the first gear (smaller cog) with minimal friction using the initial set up with arrow adjustment. I am also able to shift through all 12 cogs, but I find starting with the second gear noise in some of the cogs. When I try to use the fine tuning function using the App only it appears that I get no adjustment movement from derailleur. Am I missing something in the procedure of using the fine tuning? for example do I need to use the shifters in combination with the app fine adjustment set up? Or it is just simply the fine tuning function not working.
Would appreciate advise, thanks
After spending endless hours figuring out how to get all of my Wheeltop systems gears to shift smoothly, this is the process I follow these days.
1. Perform an initial 1gear to derailleur cage alignment.
2. Adjust the "B" screw position so that you can easily/smoothly shift up and down between the 2gear and the 1gear.
3. If it isn't shifting smoothly, I further adjust the initial 1-gear position, then slightly adjust the "B" screw again and again until the 2gear to 1gear and 1 gear to 2gear shift perfectly.
4. I downshift to the lowest cassette cog and tune the lowest cog so that it shifts smoothly between the lowest cog and the next lowest (12gear to 11gear and 11 gear back up onto the 12 gear) - Double checking and being sure that the limit screw is not keeping the derailleur from shifting all the way onto the lowest gear
5. Then I make sure that the derailleur cage isn't too close or far away from the lowest cog and that these gears shift up and down smoothly. If it doesn't shift perfect between the 12gear and 11gear, I play with the "B" screw until its shifts perfect.
6. Next, I shift all the way back down to the 1gear and test to see if it still shifts smoothly in the 1gear to 2 gear, back and forth. (Then I tweek the "B" screw some more, until the derailleur shifts perfect on both ends of the cassette.
7. I start shifting one-by-one across all of the cogs, up and down, and perform my individual fine tuning of each gear.
Al least for me, this iteration process has let me get almost perfect and silent shifting.
One other thing I discovered on several of my OX derailleurs is that the relative position/distance of my 1gear (10-tooth cog) to the outside flat surface that the derailleur mounts on varies between bikes. I experimented with the initial 1gear calibration setting to discover that I was reaching the App adjustment limit of the derailleur and that there can be a shifting "dead zone" between trying adjust the step count number required to shift from the 1gear to the 2gear. I could always shift out of the 1gear to the 2gear, but could never shift back into the 1gear from the 2gear. I ended up installing a 2mm wide washer between the hanger and derailleur bolt, readjusted the initial 1gear calibration, and all of my shifting problems went away. (I did not have this issue setting up my TX system.)
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why not Ltwoo ERX or ER9?
I've got the Wheeltop here and the Ultegra Di2 can be found quite easily used online. No other reason than that.
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Anyone chance buying the Wheeletop EDS TX from AliEx sellers? The prices are starting to drop down to ER9 prices around the $400-500 USD range. The big issue is lack of warranty coverage from Wheeltop. The Twitter Store on AliEx looks like they're selling OEM packages for their bike builds on the side.
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Anyone chance buying the Wheeletop EDS TX from AliEx sellers? The prices are starting to drop down to ER9 prices around the $400-500 USD range. The big issue is lack of warranty coverage from Wheeltop. The Twitter Store on AliEx looks like they're selling OEM packages for their bike builds on the side.
I did a search on EDS TX groups. For the carbon hydraulic version of the TX group, I didn't find any lower prices than I paid for my TX group last year.
Can you post a link to what you have found to be better prices?
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Disregard, I linked the GEX - you guys are talking about TX.
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Not that I am in the market now but I have this $455-500 EDS TX in my cart from pre-tariff days:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807839528218.html
Considering the EGR has gone up in prices to close to $500 (80s designer store, others are cheaper) this price seems pretty close to LTWoo's.
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I did a search on EDS TX groups. For the carbon hydraulic version of the TX group, I didn't find any lower prices than I paid for my TX group last year.
Can you post a link to what you have found to be better prices?
I was looking at the alloy EDS TX which puts inline with regular price LTwoo ER9. Carbon EDS TX is closer to carbon ERX.
Here's the store I was looking at:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808019608112.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808019608112.html)
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Considering the EGR has gone up in prices to close to $500 (80s designer store, others are cheaper) this price seems pretty close to LTWoo's.
When I saw the eGR at $300 USD during the Black Friday sales, I jumped on it. It's a seriously good groupset and I've already tested mine in the rain and desert. The only downside is the somewhat conservative in-spec 46t max cog. I would have preferred at least 50t on the back.
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When I saw the eGR at $300 USD during the Black Friday sales, I jumped on it. It's a seriously good groupset and I've already tested mine in the rain and desert. The only downside is the somewhat conservative in-spec 46t max cog. I would have preferred at least 50t on the back.
I am okay with 46t as my gravel isn't that crazy. Almost all the Exx groups have gone up in price if you are not buying from LTWoo's official store. That store is dicey, however. I bought 3 times last year and every time it was sent back to the sender without ever reaching me. I think it was a sign from powers that be to not buy it :D Now I am not risking it with any big purchases for at least some time even though these current coupons are very lucrative.
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I was looking at the alloy EDS TX which puts inline with regular price LTwoo ER9. Carbon EDS TX is closer to carbon ERX.
Here's the store I was looking at:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808019608112.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808019608112.html)
Best deal I have seen yet and with Anniversary Sale it gets even better.
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Does anyone have any experience using both the original hydraulic 7000 series calipers and Wheeltop's new 7800 series hydraulic calipers? Stopping power? weight differences? heat dissipation? durability? Thanks.
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Best deal I have seen yet and with Anniversary Sale it gets even better.
I went ahead and purchased another EDS TX package from the Twitter store. I purchased the version with carbon levers, carbon derailleur cage, and 7800 hydraulic calipers for $426 USD. (After sale price, coins and Aliexpress coupons.) $100 less than the original EDS TX system Ipurchased last year.
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Sorry, I don't keep up with this thread and I had a hard time picking through it.
I know that, officially, Wheeltop will not provide support if it was bought on Aliexpress (i.e. outside their distribution network). But, has anyone managed to get after-sales support from their Aliexpress vendor?
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Sorry, I don't keep up with this thread and I had a hard time picking through it.
I know that, officially, Wheeltop will not provide support if it was bought on Aliexpress (i.e. outside their distribution network). But, has anyone managed to get after-sales support from their Aliexpress vendor?
The "Twitter Bike Store" that I just purchased my Wheeltop EDS TX kit from stated to me that they are an authorized seller of Wheeltop products. Twitter appears to be Wheeltop's largest domestic OEM bike seller on aliexpress. There is also one other store on Aliexpress that states they are an authorized reseller of Wheeltop EDS systems. Weko LIN Bicycle store also states they are an approved Wheeltop seller.
- I interpret this as these 2 stores will work with you to have Wheeltop warranty the product they sold to you, or they may chose to send you replacements for you defective or failed parts.
If the store is not an authorized store, Wheeltop will requests that you send the failed parts back to the store that sold them to you and YOU have to convince and prove to the store how and why the parts failed, and then the store will send you replacement parts. (What I found out is that the store I dealt with told me to ship the parts back to them at my cost and they would warranty them. Shipping back to China was more expensive than what I paid for the parts.)
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Need some help guys, trying to replace pads but the ones I got where too big, any links or recommendations for a good set of pads
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I have to admit that I need some help concerning the EDS TX system I am running. I can't figure out anyway to recover from this problem.
Yesterday, 17 miles from home after climbing a long hill I turned around. When I tried to shift the rear derailleur, nothing! I tried the front derailleur. No shifting! I stopped and pulled up the App. I could shift the rear derailleur a few gears using the app, and the front wouldn't shift. I coasted down the hill in a lower gear. When I stopped,I checked all of the battery levels. 50% rear derailleur, 80% front derailleur, 2.99 volts front derailleur shifter, 2.92 volts rear derailleur shifter. (I replaced the rear shifter RH lever battery with the spare I carry. )
This allowed the rear derailleur to shift and I made it home. (Both lever batteries died at the same time?)
This morning, I replaced both lever batteries with brand new Duracell ones. (3.3 volts) Front derailleur light turns green, and I hear the motor buzz, but it wont shift. The rear derailleur thinks that 5gear is 1gear, and it wont shift any further down to a higher gear. When the rear derailleur is in the 3gear on the app, it wont shift down to the 1 gear to try to perform an initial calibration because it says the front derailleur has to be in the big ring. But the front wont shift. I've spent over a 1/2 hour trying to get the derailleur to move to the actual 1 gear position. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO RESET THE REAR DERAILLEUR DOWN INTO THE 1GEAR POSITION? ANY IDEAS WHY THE FRONT DERAILLEUR WONT SHIFT? Thanks.
I can't find any recovery features in the current version of the app to be able to manually move the rear derailleur back down to the 1gear (Highest cog on the cassette.) Am I missing some feature in the App I can't find?
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Update on my wheeltop experience: Initial setup was a bit tricky and I need to fizzle around to get it shifting smoothly, but in the end it worked well (on a shimano XT 11-46 cassette).
I was running it for ~350km mixed terrain on my hardtail, no really heavy or muddy conditions, no races. Some weeks ago after winter I cleaned my bike (no high pressure, just normal water in the garden). After some days I wanted to ride and the rear derailleur was just dead. Tried to charge for some hours but nothing changed.
Contacted wheeltop and after them sending some videos, they confirmed that the battery of the derailleur is dead and they will send me a new derailleur (after sending the old one back).
Main reason for me to choose wheeltop was, that I wanted to use my old 11spd stuff and don't need to invest in new freehub body, cassette and chain until it is end of life. But my overall experience is mixed as the setup was not really easy and on the first occasion it just died. Also the charging was annoying to me (I know, it is not their fault, SRAM patent).
In the meantime I got a used XX1 AXS groupset for a good price and will change to SRAM (I already run a SRAM XX1 AXS on a different bike and I like to be compatible to change spare parts when something breaks).
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I figured out how to get the derailleurs working again. (Some input from the Facebook WHEELTOP Official Group.)
For several attempts trying to perform an "initial Calibration" The app would state that I had reached the "travel limit" and the derailleur would not move.
I rebooted the Wheeltop App several times. Eventually, I was able to use the initial calibration features for the front and rear derailleurs and gradually/incrementally move the rear derailleur down to the 1gear, and the front derailleur onto the large ring. Then I had to fine tune the gears back to my settings.
This is the bigger question: Why did both derailleurs lose their calibrations such that the rear derailleur thought that the 7gear was the 1 gear, and the front set its travel limit to the small ring on the front derailleur. (Just because the front button batteries had low voltage? ) I wonder how much pain and suffering I would have experienced if I had been on long ride, or somewhere remote, where I was sitting on the side of a road, or trail, trying to figure this problem out.
Does Wheeltop make the assumption that SHI* like this wont happen to the end user? As far as I know, they haven't published anything to recover from this type of problem. 2 more demerit points!
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Need some help guys, trying to replace pads but the ones I got where too big, any links or recommendations for a good set of pads
Anyone? Would really appreciate any help.
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Anyone? Would really appreciate any help.
Contact Jerry at XZX Components. He should be able to locate some.*
https://xzxcomponents.com/products/eds-tx-disc-brake-calipers
*If you life in the USA, they will now probably cost $50 a pair.... (LOL)
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Frustrating experience with this groupset yesterday, was doing a 75k cycle and the shifting suddenly stopped working at around 35k, it was moving in tiny increments and front wouldn't shift at all, couldn't figure out what was wrong so I figured I'd shut it down via the app and then it would power back on/reset once moving/shaking, it didn't, so I was left in a single gear half way through a cycle. Had to get picked up.
Once home I researched and it seems I must have accidentally put it into trim mode (right lever, light press small button for 3 seconds, light press small button 5 times after) which also seems to reset all gear settings, to exit this mode hold the left lever button down for 5 seconds.....don't switch this groupset off on the road.
What a pain
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Hi everyone,
just received my EDS TX and so far everything went pretty smooth. But there‘s one thing that I couldn‘t figure out: since Im using the bike also on a smart trainer I have to regularly remove thr rear wheel. With the former 105 derailleur I could just swing it back and upwards and had plenty of space. The EDS however is fixed rock solid. Is there any hidden button/lever which makes removal easier?
Edit: ok I just tried again. I can just swing the derailleur it s just quite a lot of resistance.
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hi! long time lurker of the forums.
i bought the wheeltop eds TX some time last year. it had failed & been replaced twice. both occasions failed due to water ingress. opened the rear derailleur and did notice some small droplets of water which ended up on one of the pins.
on the second occasion, it failed some 20 minutes before my Individual Time Trial. it was raining really heavily that time. really a big bummer & i have been using mechanical ever since.
i'm looking to re-fit my bike with a new set and in the future, for a gravel bike with the GEX groupset.
would like to know if recent versions have been weather resistant? my country is pretty rainy and humid (Singapore) and i tend to still continue riding regardless of the weather conditions.
it's a big concern for me and i'm hoping to give this another try!
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I noticed that after riding in rough roads the RD loses its settings. I often have to go on initial calibration and move of few taps the RD. Anyone experienced the same? and maybe solved it
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Frustrating experience with this groupset yesterday, was doing a 75k cycle and the shifting suddenly stopped working at around 35k, it was moving in tiny increments and front wouldn't shift at all, couldn't figure out what was wrong so I figured I'd shut it down via the app and then it would power back on/reset once moving/shaking, it didn't, so I was left in a single gear half way through a cycle. Had to get picked up.
Once home I researched and it seems I must have accidentally put it into trim mode (right lever, light press small button for 3 seconds, light press small button 5 times after) which also seems to reset all gear settings, to exit this mode hold the left lever button down for 5 seconds.....don't switch this groupset off on the road.
What a pain
You're not the only one... Problems like and very similar to what you experienced are being reported on the Facebook Wheeltop forums. This past Friday, (May 9th) I had both of my EDS TX derailleurs stop shifting. Both levers were not responsive. (This is the second time this has happened to me.) I was able to use my app to shift the derailleurs, but both derailleurs lost their "initial calibration" positions. I performed a rear derailleur "initial position" setting from the 6gear, down to the 1gear using the app, and was able to shift/limp home shifting with the app. I spent a lot of time the next day trying everything I could think of to get the shifters to pair/work with the derailleurs. I gave up. The next day, I tried shifting, and the shifters worked! I had to reset the "Initial calibration" positions again for both derailleurs. For some unknown reason/s they just started working again...
Other owners are speculating the following, but they have not presented any real data to support their theories: 1. The EDS TX derailleurs are susceptible to hard impacts, or vibrations that somehow causes the derailleur to lose power, causing it to go brain dead and stop shifting. 2. Some speculation that after upgrading to the latest firmware, the rear derailleur stops working, and will reboot itself sometime in the unknown future, causing it to stop working, forget what it is paired to, and as a result you have to set up the derailleur from scratch. 3. When this happens, the derailleur moving to the 6gear position on the cassette appears to be common with these problems.
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anyone have a source for the new softer hoods for tx that will ship to USA?
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new OSPW by WheelTop!
https://i.ibb.co/zVnRxS6s/640.jpg
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new OSPW by WheelTop!
https://i.ibb.co/zVnRxS6s/640.jpg
That's heavy af
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I have to admit that I need some help concerning the EDS TX system I am running. I can't figure out anyway to recover from this problem.
Yesterday, 17 miles from home after climbing a long hill I turned around. When I tried to shift the rear derailleur, nothing! I tried the front derailleur. No shifting! I stopped and pulled up the App. I could shift the rear derailleur a few gears using the app, and the front wouldn't shift. I coasted down the hill in a lower gear. When I stopped,I checked all of the battery levels. 50% rear derailleur, 80% front derailleur, 2.99 volts front derailleur shifter, 2.92 volts rear derailleur shifter. (I replaced the rear shifter RH lever battery with the spare I carry. )
This allowed the rear derailleur to shift and I made it home. (Both lever batteries died at the same time?)
This morning, I replaced both lever batteries with brand new Duracell ones. (3.3 volts) Front derailleur light turns green, and I hear the motor buzz, but it wont shift. The rear derailleur thinks that 5gear is 1gear, and it wont shift any further down to a higher gear. When the rear derailleur is in the 3gear on the app, it wont shift down to the 1 gear to try to perform an initial calibration because it says the front derailleur has to be in the big ring. But the front wont shift. I've spent over a 1/2 hour trying to get the derailleur to move to the actual 1 gear position. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO RESET THE REAR DERAILLEUR DOWN INTO THE 1GEAR POSITION? ANY IDEAS WHY THE FRONT DERAILLEUR WONT SHIFT? Thanks.
I can't find any recovery features in the current version of the app to be able to manually move the rear derailleur back down to the 1gear (Highest cog on the cassette.) Am I missing some feature in the App I can't find?
Have this issue as well. But it's the first day, contacted wheeltop and Aliexpress shop but now it's too late to respond. The battery seems not being capable of moving the motor of the derailleur or it's broke. But I'll try it tomorrow again. Loaded the batteries, have the latest software, replaced the batteries from the shifters. Need to see how and what. Will read on the Wheeltop facebook page now as well. I also would like to know what you wrote in capital letters.
You're not the only one... Problems like and very similar to what you experienced are being reported on the Facebook Wheeltop forums. This past Friday, (May 9th) I had both of my EDS TX derailleurs stop shifting. Both levers were not responsive. (This is the second time this has happened to me.) I was able to use my app to shift the derailleurs, but both derailleurs lost their "initial calibration" positions. I performed a rear derailleur "initial position" setting from the 6gear, down to the 1gear using the app, and was able to shift/limp home shifting with the app. I spent a lot of time the next day trying everything I could think of to get the shifters to pair/work with the derailleurs. I gave up. The next day, I tried shifting, and the shifters worked! I had to reset the "Initial calibration" positions again for both derailleurs. For some unknown reason/s they just started working again...
Other owners are speculating the following, but they have not presented any real data to support their theories: 1. The EDS TX derailleurs are susceptible to hard impacts, or vibrations that somehow causes the derailleur to lose power, causing it to go brain dead and stop shifting. 2. Some speculation that after upgrading to the latest firmware, the rear derailleur stops working, and will reboot itself sometime in the unknown future, causing it to stop working, forget what it is paired to, and as a result you have to set up the derailleur from scratch. 3. When this happens, the derailleur moving to the 6gear position on the cassette appears to be common with these problems.
So, okay, I'm not the only one that's already a good sign, or not... but I had 1 lever that was dead so I replaced the battery and then it started. the rear derailleur didn't want to work anymore. Let's see tomorrow how it goes.
Anyone? Would really appreciate any help.
I have always saved this: compatible with LO4A brake pads so I didn't bought them yet but have them on my AliEpxress wishlist: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006305272176.html?channel=twinner
I can't say with 100% confidence that they fit but I would try these ones.
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Had my left shifter die yesterday on a ride with no cell service at point of failure. >:(
After riding 1x for a bit, got to an area with weak service and was able to connect with the app, no comm with left lever. Removed battery (known good, 1 wk old Duracell) reinstalled, nothing. But by leaving app open but minimized I stayed connected even after losing service again, so at least I could shift w app if I really needed it. Thankful for a 48 up front and 11-34, pretty usable as 1x.
After troubleshooting at home, I found that battery connection at lever is spotty-the positive side is just a pc board trace with no "spring" to it, so I did open up the side springs (neg connection) to hold battery tighter, hopefully that will help.
Thinking about a little foil under battery. Anyone else had this issue and ideas for fix?
Edit, died again today just after leaving home. Found the issue, likely partly user error. When you insert the 2032, don't put it in flat, it must go in sort of rear edge down to avoid the little edge tabs in the rear getting their "spring" tension lost by being pushed, as they serve to hold the battery down against vibration. They're very weak. I bent them back out with a pick, carefully reinstalled battery, and its tight now.
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Issue solved, AliX seller, send to me another RD and I got it yesterday. Connected everything but couldn't connect the shifters. Deleted everything again, and connected first RD then FD, this was working on the app. Then I took both batteries from the shifters out. Pressed the button and added the battery first right. pressed it down and hold the button in. blue pairing light paired. connect to the RD with cable loader on it. Took that off then it's also in pairing mode and Bam connected. Now did the same with the left shifter and connect it to the RD instead of the FD because that's the main connector (the RD) and Bam connected. problem solved!
However, I was too nervous and couldn't wait until the seller and Wheeltop resolved the issue so I also bought another one at https://xzxcomponents.com/ (https://xzxcomponents.com/) So in the end I will have two. So if I have got this problem again I have a spare one, this wasn't my initial idea but oke what ever I'm not gone send it back. And Facebook Wheeltop user group was a blessing, what a positive feedback with all the people that have issues.
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Maybe one of you can help me. I bought a wheeltop eds tx groupset 2nd hand. The guy who owned the groupset stripped the FD fine adjustment bolt. And drilled a new bolt in there. I am trying to set it up; but the front derailleur has been a pain in *ss. Is the part I highlighted supposed to stick out this far?
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Hi Jouke,
Here a picture how mine looks like, not sure if I can help you with this.
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Looking for a source for the new hoods that will ship to usa, can't find one on ali, and the only reseller wants $25 to ship a pair of hoods...
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Looking for a source for the new hoods that will ship to usa, can't find one on ali, and the only reseller wants $25 to ship a pair of hoods...
Hi, I'm attaching an AliExpress link:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005008068697926.html?pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000043525539263%22%7D&sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp
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Thanks, doesn't do usa.
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I would call that the aliexpress paradox. Shipping is very complex, confusing and opaque, but unless you use aliexpress (or other retail platforms like banggood & the likes), shipping even an envelope from China to the west will cost at least 20$, afaik. I do think that large players like Yuanan / Elite have volume deals and can offer better shipping terms, but if you contact a seller on alibaba and want to get even a sample, it's basically 20-30$ per kilo for shipping, and the first kilo is whole.
Generally, i'd say that 25/33% of aliexpress prices are shipping costs, but the fact that aliexpress ships $10 orders across the planet is incredible. textbook example of economy of scale & volume ordering.
Yes, agreed. The Choice shipping thing is a mystery to me. They can obviously make it work, but must get some crazy volume discounts to pull it off.
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Hi all, I have a problem that I can't resolve with my wheeltop eds rd. I hope someone can help me. I manage to setup the rd properly without load. However, whenever i'm on gear 4 on the road, the chain will drop to smaller gear 3 on bumpy roads (but the system is still on gear 4). On smooth roads, it works just fine. There isn't much play on the mounting bolt....is there something wrong with the motor?
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Hi all, I have a problem that I can't resolve with my wheeltop eds rd. I hope someone can help me. I manage to setup the rd properly without load. However, whenever i'm on gear 4 on the road, the chain will drop to smaller gear 3 on bumpy roads (but the system is still on gear 4). On smooth roads, it works just fine. There isn't much play on the mounting bolt....is there something wrong with the motor?
the same started to happens on mine too.
Mine also loses setup when the charn started to drop on smaller cogs. I wrote to the support and they agreed to replace my RD. Im waiting for a new one.
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the same started to happens on mine too.
Mine also loses setup when the charn started to drop on smaller cogs. I wrote to the support and they agreed to replace my RD. Im waiting for a new one.
May I know the support contacts
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May I know the support contacts
service@wheeltop.com
for a lot of fast questions I also contected them by Wechat
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So far, I've had a pretty bad run of luck with the EDS-TX. Learnings so far:
- There's an adjustment screw on the underside of the derailleur that I found difficult to find - a case of RTFM that had me trying to get in and out of the adjustment mode multiple times before I could get my calibration in.
- Once the calibration was dialled in, it worked pretty smoothly - but I found that re-entering the adjustment mode would reset and throw out any calibration I had done. Solution: Take screenshots of the adjustments dialled in to the app.
- Accuracy seemed to be way worse shifting down the cog than shifting up it.
- The FD fine adjustment bolt is soft as butter and stripped using a Parktools ball-headed allen key that was barely used. There's no way to adjust the FD in the app without Wheeltop unlocking the function.
At about 350km of riding, I had a fall - my derailleur hanger seemed to be true, but that didn't stop the groupset from having a nasty run-in with my wheel that resulted in the derailleur experiencing a case of rapid unexpected disassembly, with the body shearing off between the battery and the mech. The mounting holes look like they've sheared in half. Given how the accident happened, I'm not hopeful of it being treated under warranty.
But - the Wheeltop site shows a derailleur replacement (for $390 USD) - I could swear that it's gotten $75 USD cheaper overnight - on pre-order, with a wait of up to 45-days. I have attempted to contact support via the app, email, and the website chat, but have had no response in 2 days. Has anyone had any luck ordering a replacement, and was there a long wait? Are there any chances of me scoring a discount on a replacement given the failure mode if I wait to hear back from support?
If the choice is between waiting 45-days for this product, which has kind of given me hell so far, and biting the bullet and switching over to SRAM, I'm beginning to think it's time to switch.
(https://i.imgur.com/I4uWTpd.jpeg)
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https://xzxcomponents.com/collections/derailleurs-spares
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https://xzxcomponents.com/collections/derailleurs-spares
Thanks for this... probably irrelevant given that Wheeltop support seems to be next to non-existent anyway, but would products from XZX be covered by Wheeltop's warranty? Given other experiences, I wouldn't be comfortable with not being able to make a future claim.
Also, I noticed an Easter Egg on their site! Most of the images of cyclists outside of the product pages have non-Wheeltop groupsets fitted :D
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May I know how to remove it? I tried using a circlip pick but couldn't find the catch.
Easily removed. Material sure is a soft aluminum... (Pics for your viewing pleasure.)
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So far, I've had a pretty bad run of luck with the EDS-TX. Learnings so far:
- There's an adjustment screw on the underside of the derailleur that I found difficult to find - a case of RTFM that had me trying to get in and out of the adjustment mode multiple times before I could get my calibration in.
- Once the calibration was dialled in, it worked pretty smoothly - but I found that re-entering the adjustment mode would reset and throw out any calibration I had done. Solution: Take screenshots of the adjustments dialled in to the app.
- Accuracy seemed to be way worse shifting down the cog than shifting up it.
- The FD fine adjustment bolt is soft as butter and stripped using a Parktools ball-headed allen key that was barely used. There's no way to adjust the FD in the app without Wheeltop unlocking the function.
There's a third party app available on the Facebook wheeltop users page-the apps url is https://dreds.jeckyll.net/
You'll need a pc with bluetooth or an android phone. It will also run on an iphone but you'll need an app named WebBLE to allow the use of websites that access bluetooth. Also, Google Chrome. May need to tinker with eliminating or disabling other browsers.
But its great in that it 1) allows you to name and save configurations after fine tuning (awesome if you have a couple wheelsets) 2) seperates out race mode from sleep so you can have faster shifting and still have sleep mode 3) allows fd fine tuning of both initial positions and trim positions 4) allows you to turn off the "protection" that blocks the smallest 3 rear cogs in the little ring and 5) if you connect it to the group and leave it minimized, it stays connected so that you can use it on the road without an internet connection, unlike the standard app-you can also do this preconnect with the standard app but it runs phone gps and really sucks down the phone battery.
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So far, I've had a pretty bad run of luck with the EDS-TX. Learnings so far:
- There's an adjustment screw on the underside of the derailleur that I found difficult to find - a case of RTFM that had me trying to get in and out of the adjustment mode multiple times before I could get my calibration in.
- Once the calibration was dialled in, it worked pretty smoothly - but I found that re-entering the adjustment mode would reset and throw out any calibration I had done. Solution: Take screenshots of the adjustments dialled in to the app.
- Accuracy seemed to be way worse shifting down the cog than shifting up it.
- The FD fine adjustment bolt is soft as butter and stripped using a Parktools ball-headed allen key that was barely used. There's no way to adjust the FD in the app without Wheeltop unlocking the function.
At about 350km of riding, I had a fall - my derailleur hanger seemed to be true, but that didn't stop the groupset from having a nasty run-in with my wheel that resulted in the derailleur experiencing a case of rapid unexpected disassembly, with the body shearing off between the battery and the mech. The mounting holes look like they've sheared in half. Given how the accident happened, I'm not hopeful of it being treated under warranty.
But - the Wheeltop site shows a derailleur replacement (for $390 USD) - I could swear that it's gotten $75 USD cheaper overnight - on pre-order, with a wait of up to 45-days. I have attempted to contact support via the app, email, and the website chat, but have had no response in 2 days. Has anyone had any luck ordering a replacement, and was there a long wait? Are there any chances of me scoring a discount on a replacement given the failure mode if I wait to hear back from support?
If the choice is between waiting 45-days for this product, which has kind of given me hell so far, and biting the bullet and switching over to SRAM, I'm beginning to think it's time to switch.
(https://i.imgur.com/I4uWTpd.jpeg)
based on my experience, to reply to emails they are not fast (also 1 week or almost). But on WeChat they always replied very fast for technical questions (but they reply in chinese)
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I did a quick search but couldn't find an answer.
I am thinking of getting the Zeno Q-Connector system and fit it at the same time as the Wheeltop EDS TX. But I need to order the correct fitting for the connector bolt in the Lever.
Does anyone know what size connector bolt is in the lever? Looks like a choice between an M9 and an M8 thread fit.
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Anybody made any pre-orders directly from Wheeltop and had any issues?
I made an order almost 8 weeks ago (pre-order was 4-6 weeks). Contacted them and the made up some story how they created a delivery weeks back and failed to update me.
Only the tracking number they sent me hasn't changed from Shipping Information received for 3 weeks!! Feels like they're lying to me, trying to stall or something, which is not a good sign.
Where else are we buying from who can ship instantly?
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Can anybody take some pictures of the front derailleur and the tire clearance with some wider tires?
I plan to build my LightCarbon LCR018-D frame with some Aero+ Elitewheels with 30mm outside rim width and maybe 32 or 35mm tires.
As far as i saw few pictures and review videos, there is not sooo much clearance to the front derailleur :(
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If anyone's curious, I successfully mounted an ali sls motion clone ospw to a TX rd. Used the one intended for DA 9250 12spd. The pivot etc all mount up just fine. There is a slighly greater offset at the pivot, so you'll likely need to reset initial cal and maybe tweek the shifting a bit. But it all works, and any late shimano compatible ospw should work if you don't like the vibe of the Wheeltop unit (I don't like the Absolute Black vibe).
It is slightly shorter than the stock cage but no issues with a 11-34 .You can also just fit an oversized lower pulley in the stock cage without issue.
Edit - chain was a complete link too long. Works in all gears now both chainrings
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54689751536_afe89495c6_w.jpg)
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If anyone's curious, I successfully mounted an ali sls motion clone ospw to a TX rd. Used the one intended for DA 9250 12spd. The pivot etc all mount up just fine. There is a slighly greater offset at the pivot, so you'll likely need to reset initial cal and maybe tweek the shifting a bit. But it all works, and any late shimano compatible ospw should work if you don't like the vibe of the Wheeltop unit (I don't like the Absolute Black vibe).
It is slightly shorter than the stock cage but no issues with a 11-34 .You can also just fit an oversized lower pulley in the stock cage without issue.
Edit - chain was a complete link too long. Works in all gears now both chainrings
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54689751536_afe89495c6_w.jpg)
Could you send me the link?
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Could you send me the link?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806396395480.html
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Hi,
has anyone ordered the Wheeltop's own OSPW for the EDS TX?
I ordered mine (a bit over 2 months ago) - got the EDS TX already, but still waiting for the OSPW, and don't really want to cut my chain to length until I get the OSPW (I assume I need 1-2 links extra)
so... if someone had ordered their OSPW - has anyone received it / how long did it take to get it?
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Hi all,
I just got my Wheeltop EDS TX and I have to ask: Is the mounting screw of the rear derailleur really that squeaky? Like nails to a chalkboard when tightening the screw to the mech hanger? Anyone else?
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I have an update regarding my derailleurs losing their ability to shift. I last wrote about this problem in reply #505 on May 12th 2025. On Monday, Sept 15th, it happened again. About 3 miles from completing a 60+ mile gravel ride with a lot of climbing and descents, near the bottom of a rougher downhill, I turned a sharp corner and discovered that both shifters no longer worked. (Not again!) I nursed the bike to the finish of the ride in a high gear, and scratching my head wondering why this has happened for a 3rd time!
At the end of the ride, when I told my buddies, I was again shamed that I have purchased a unknown Chinese product. The ride's finish was at a hotel where we would spend the night and ride a return ride the next day. I immediately got to work on getting the system to work again.
1. I linked the app to the derailleurs.
2. The 1gear calibration was in the 6gear position.
3. Both front and rear shifters would not shift.
4. I used the app to gradually step the derailleur into the highest gear, 1gear.
5. Calibration for the front derailleur was also off, so I stepped the front derailleur to its proper position.
6. My next step was to remove both batteries from the shift levers. I waited a couple minutes then put the batteries back in.
7. The rear derailleur acted like it wanted to shift, then I realized it was making small steps like the initial calibration in the app.
8. Then I saw that the blue lights on the levers were illuminated and the blue light was on the rear derailleur.
9. For some reason, the levers were stuck in calibration mode. I searched for the problem on the internet, and it said I should push the buttons for 3+ seconds and the levers should go out of calibration mode. (Or wait over 30 seconds and the shifters should exit calibration mode.)
10. I tried holding the rear shift button for 3 seconds and the lights wouldn't go off.
11. I was out of time, and my riding buddies were waiting for us to go out to dinner.
12. I took the bike into the hotel room, and removed the batteries again from the shifters so the levers could perhaps reset while we were at dinner.
13. 1.5 hours later I returned to the room and installed the batteries. WOW! All was back to normal, like nothing happened.
I started thinking about the conditions where the shifters stopped working.
I realized that on this high speed bumpy descent, I was trying to shift into my top gear. I am about 90% sure now that while gripping the handlebars, I had a couple fingers on the rear shift levers where I kept the buttons depressed for at least 3 seconds.
I believe that this put the rear derailleur lever into the "manual calibration" mode. then when I went to downshift by clicking the lever, the rear derailleur was set to a new "zero Calibration" position.
While riding the bike at speed, the last thing I can hear is the stepper motor moving one step, nor can I see the blue light in the levers.
I would bet this is what happened the past 2 times this happened.
I think this is a weakness of the EDS TX in that if you have to brake and try to shift, or are riding on rough roads, and you grip the levers and accidentally push a lever for 3 seconds or more the problems I have experienced 3 times happens.
One more thing I have to try to stay aware of while riding on rough roads, not to depress the buttons unless you are trying to shift gears...
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Hi,
has anyone ordered the Wheeltop's own OSPW for the EDS TX?
I ordered mine (a bit over 2 months ago) - got the EDS TX already, but still waiting for the OSPW, and don't really want to cut my chain to length until I get the OSPW (I assume I need 1-2 links extra)
so... if someone had ordered their OSPW - has anyone received it / how long did it take to get it?
I did … but via Aliexpress for around 90$…
But actually…I cannot recommend it.
The large lower pulley bearing is not very well sealed. Now you may say…it’s ceramic anyways…but this did not
prevent it to completely lock up! Because of debris entering.
So it’s a bit of a service intensive item. Maybe using it for my gravel setup is not the intended user case, but well.
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Hi all,
I just got my Wheeltop EDS TX and I have to ask: Is the mounting screw of the rear derailleur really that squeaky? Like nails to a chalkboard when tightening the screw to the mech hanger? Anyone else?
YES! ;D
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I did … but via Aliexpress for around 90$…
But actually…I cannot recommend it.
The large lower pulley bearing is not very well sealed. Now you may say…it’s ceramic anyways…but this did not
prevent it to completely lock up! Because of debris entering.
So it’s a bit of a service intensive item. Maybe using it for my gravel setup is not the intended user case, but well.
Thanks, my ospw had arrived in the meanwhile. I've set it up, but have not put any serious mileage yet - just few commutes to office. But this Sunday I'll go for a ~130km ride. In the short rides it's been totally fine. My gears are not yet perfectly set up, but ... they do shift fineish (My comparison bike is latest dura-ace so wheeltop is obviously worse than that)
Maybe the biggest complaint I'd have so far is - it's not always ... clear whether you manage to 'click' the shifter properly. Sometimes it feels like I did press the shifter, but nothing happens (I'm not using the 'race' mode - maybe that helps as well)
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Meh. Installed the Gearset on my new bike. Last two days in my appartement the shifting worked fine when testing to set up gears.
Now i wanted to do my first ride and nothing. The levers do nothing. I thought it might be the problem some of you had with unsecure batteries in the brifters but using my app i saw that there was no connection with the derailleurs. Charging both derailleurs and putting in new batteries in the brifters didnt work.
I unbound the system from my app but cannot find anything when trying to pair the devices again.
I can get the front derailleur into pairing mode where it blinks blue, but the rear derailleur doesnt do anything other than charge (red lamp) when i insert the (very flimsy) connector.
Now waiting for the RD to fully load and hope it works..
Anyone has any idea? :/
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So. I sent them my rear derailleur back and am waiting for a new one right now.
It's been round about a month now waiting for everything.
Right now i can only tell you to keep your hands away from this groupset.
i hope my mind changes after getting a working derailleur...
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Maybe the biggest complaint I'd have so far is - it's not always ... clear whether you manage to 'click' the shifter properly. Sometimes it feels like I did press the shifter, but nothing happens (I'm not using the 'race' mode - maybe that helps as well)
The lever that moves to the bigger cogs is easy. The one to the smaller cogs only works consistently if you press it at the very bottom. I've trained myself to do that and to use two fingers to get consistent shifts.
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what are the size of standar pulleys on edx tx?
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what are the size of standar pulleys on edx tx?
Both pulleys are 12T; the lower one is narrow-wide
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Both pulleys are 12T; the lower one is narrow-wide
what is the different ? so i cannot buy the same
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A month ago I entered a Wheeltop contest and this week I was notified I won 1st place. Now I have a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset shipping my way! Anyways, I'm wondering what's the max cassette i can put on this groupset? I'm thinking of doing 50-34t + 10-36t if possible for my climbing bike.
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A month ago I entered a Wheeltop contest and this week I was notified I won 1st place. Now I have a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset shipping my way! Anyways, I'm wondering what's the max cassette i can put on this groupset? I'm thinking of doing 50-34t + 10-36t if possible for my climbing bike.
People have reported 11-36 with a 16t gap at the front working, so I'd be surprised if 10-36 didn't work. Good stuff on the win and let us know how you get on with it!
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People have reported 11-36 with a 16t gap at the front working, so I'd be surprised if 10-36 didn't work. Good stuff on the win and let us know how you get on with it!
I entered the Wheeltop rebuild contest and sent photos of my GeX equipped gravel bike. I guess they liked my build!
I'm debating if I should put it on my other 52-36t road bike instead. I'd prefer having the larger 10-36t cassette on that bike to get a true 1:1 low gearing.
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I finished my LC018-D build with the EDS TX and a 52/36T Chainring and 11-36 cassette.
Used the big/big cog chain sizing method and it works so far.
The RD will block to use the last two smallest cogs due to the chain protection mode.
When I'm on the 3rd smallest (so the last which it will shift to) in the back and small in the front, the chain has slack.
Have to remove one link from the chain to avoid the slack.
If I'm in biggest/biggest cog, the chain is a bit "short" at the moment, but I was told that you don't do this when riding ;D
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Newbie question, how do you know it’s time to stop fine tuning? I’ve run my tx for 1k km without issues but recently on an indoor trainer I noticed that something is a little bit loud down there. Chain is not rubbing anything, is routed correctly, gears are changing up and down quickly and firmly. It might be waxing chain or different acoustics of my garage but it seems loud :) I am also wondering when to stop fine tuning because a lot of people complain about how tricky it is to setup RD but in my case it went smoothly (or is not good enough:) ) so my question what are the metrics of perfectly tuned eds tx derailleurs?
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Newbie question, how do you know it’s time to stop fine tuning? I’ve run my tx for 1k km without issues but recently on an indoor trainer I noticed that something is a little bit loud down there. Chain is not rubbing anything, is routed correctly, gears are changing up and down quickly and firmly. It might be waxing chain or different acoustics of my garage but it seems loud :) I am also wondering when to stop fine tuning because a lot of people complain about how tricky it is to setup RD but in my case it went smoothly (or is not good enough:) ) so my question what are the metrics of perfectly tuned eds tx derailleurs?
Did you move the bike to a wheel off trainer? If so, you may need to retune for that cassette. One of the beauties of the third party app is that you can save configs.
That said, my Tx seemed to need a touchup every 500 mi or so when using a ztto cassette. Not sure if it was the cassette or the derailleur "drifting". Have switched to a Goldix one piece which shifts much nicer out of the box, so we'll see.
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I entered the Wheeltop rebuild contest and sent photos of my GeX equipped gravel bike. I guess they liked my build!
I'm debating if I should put it on my other 52-36t road bike instead. I'd prefer having the larger 10-36t cassette on that bike to get a true 1:1 low gearing.
You'll have issues. The max capacity in stated as 36 and 52-36 (16 diff) and 11-36 (25 diff) requires a derailleur with a 41 capacity. You'll have to give up something. I ran a 50-34 with 11-34 for a bit which was 39 and that required a slack chain in the smaller last cogs in the little ring. To me, that was better than having the drivetrain lock if you mistakenly went big/big. If you can find an ospw with the same cage length it might help, but if the ospw is any shorter than the stock cage it won't.
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I finished my LC018-D build with the EDS TX and a 52/36T Chainring and 11-36 cassette.
Used the big/big cog chain sizing method and it works so far.
The RD will block to use the last two smallest cogs due to the chain protection mode.
When I'm on the 3rd smallest (so the last which it will shift to) in the back and small in the front, the chain has slack.
Have to remove one link from the chain to avoid the slack.
If I'm in biggest/biggest cog, the chain is a bit "short" at the moment, but I was told that you don't do this when riding ;D
I’ve ordered EDS TX and I’m also going 52/36, 11/36. I don’t think that 52/36 is a great place to be on a 12 speed. Similarly I have 52/36, 11/34 on my old 11 speed bike and try to avoid the inner 2 cogs while on the big ring. In extremis I’ll go 2nd biggest but never ‘crossing’ with big big. I might use the Wheeltop auto shifting to protect from this 🤔
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I’ve ordered EDS TX and I’m also going 52/36, 11/36. I don’t think that 52/36 is a great place to be on a 12 speed. Similarly I have 52/36, 11/34 on my old 11 speed bike and try to avoid the inner 2 cogs while on the big ring. In extremis I’ll go 2nd biggest but never ‘crossing’ with big big. I might use the Wheeltop auto shifting to protect from this 🤔
The cassette is 11 speed.
Is there a auto shift function?
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The cassette is 11 speed.
Is there a auto shift function?
I thought I read here you can program the system to shift to small ring if you attempt to go into the lowest 2 gears while in the big ring. I haven’t received my EDS yet, so someone with more knowledge or a manual will have to confirm. I’ve used OSPW on my 11 speeds to turn short / medium range RDs into long cage and increase the range, but you’ll still need chain capacity and should avoid going small small at the other end of the range 😉
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There is only, for my Knowledge a auto-trim function, that it will adjust the FD to the chain when shifting in the back.
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I received my carbon EDS TX today and it looks fantastic! I charged the mechs and was pleased to see the system worked straight away! Currently shifting 11 on the back, I’m sure I can reprogram this when I look into it 🤔😊
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Attached is my carbon Wheeltop EDS TX groupset. I might actually try this on my ER9 R088 road bike instead. The whole setup feels pretty lightweight. :)
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has anyone tried full chinese 13 speed with Wheeltop TX or GeX?
I have 1 x 12 GeX on my gravel bike and am thinking about buying a 13 speed MTB cassette and chain off aliexpress, the advantage being i can keep using the HG freehub.
Interested to know how good the shifting quality is.
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has anyone tried full chinese 13 speed with Wheeltop TX or GeX?
I have 1 x 12 GeX on my gravel bike and am thinking about buying a 13 speed MTB cassette and chain off aliexpress, the advantage being i can keep using the HG freehub.
Interested to know how good the shifting quality is.
I considered 13 speed for my road bike build, as the TX can handle it and 13 speed cassettes are available. But I canned the idea as 1) it wasn’t clear what chain to use 2) no guarantee of shifting quality and 3) cassettes much heavier than the lightweight Ztto 12 speed I selected.
So I’m also interested in anyone whose tried 13, but for me it will be a future upgrade, not current choice 🤔😉
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Is there any definite answer on mixing and matching a EDS TX Front derailleur to a GeX Set?
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Is there any definite answer on mixing and matching a EDS TX Front derailleur to a GeX Set?
Doesn't work. Wheeltop seems intent keeping the groupsets separately. If you want to mix-n-match, you'll have to go LTwoo eGR + eR7/9/X FD and 2 prong battery holder.
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New user here, picked up the TX and the OX kits during the BF sales... Install for both was a bit finicky, and I relied more on internet info mostly rather than trying to sort out the poorly translated manuals, etc. In the end it's all working well (mostly see below for TX battery issues).
The OX was obviously much more simple to get going since only 1x... I was impatient and set it up as soon as I got it, which I probably should have waited b/c I had new wheelset arriving with SRAM XD driver to replace my HG freehub SRAM setup... Switching it over from HG 12sp to XD 12sp a few days later was harder than I expected - for some reason it just did not want to reset the calibration to account for the high gear being further over in the spacing. But I eventually got it worked out. Only oddity is it does seems a bit louder in the lowest gear 52t than the GX mechanical it replaced, but I've got it aligned as best I can - any further room on the high side and it would overshift into the spokes.
The TX, well it was more complicated. Since I have a pretty vanilla Shimano GRX 11sp, I had hopes it would not require very much fine tuning, but the reality I had to fine tune every gear up by 20 or so. I thought maybe my initial calibration was off, but I re-did it several times lining up the high gear, but basically had the same results. But, I did eventually get it all working pretty good. The Front Derailleur I actually didn't have any issues with, so I guess I got lucky, as that seems to be a common complaint. BUT, the Rear Derailleur battery would never charge higher than 40% :(. After some back and forth with WH US support, they decided it was a likely a bad battery, so the replaced (well, they are in the process of replacing I guess I should say) the RD. So of course I had to send mine back, and they were supposed to ship the replacement as soon as they got tracking update on the return one, but it's been over a week and no derailleur, and no tracking :(. I'll follow-up Monday I guess.
Anyway, I wound up buying a new road frame to build out, so actually will be moving the TX over to it I think and putting the mechanical GRX back on the Gravel Bike, so I'll see if I can get better results setting it up on the road frame - will still be Shimano 11sp since I already have all the parts for it - but I could see swapping it over to 12sp down the road assuming the TX parts hold up well. If not then I'll likely look for a good deal on a 105 DI2 kit I guess.
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The TX, well it was more complicated. Since I have a pretty vanilla Shimano GRX 11sp, I had hopes it would not require very much fine tuning, but the reality I had to fine tune every gear up by 20 or so. I thought maybe my initial calibration was off, but I re-did it several times lining up the high gear, but basically had the same results. But, I did eventually get it all working pretty good. The Front Derailleur I actually didn't have any issues with, so I guess I got lucky, as that seems to be a common complaint. BUT, the Rear Derailleur battery would never charge higher than 40% :(. After some back and forth with WH US support, they decided it was a likely a bad battery, so the replaced (well, they are in the process of replacing I guess I should say) the RD. So of course I had to send mine back, and they were supposed to ship the replacement as soon as they got tracking update on the return one, but it's been over a week and no derailleur, and no tracking :(. I'll follow-up Monday I guess.
So, they did ship it, but it appears any replacement or warranty parts come from China, not the US warehouse where they stock new full kits :(. It has made it to US, but will likely be another week or so before it gets to me :(.
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Who is the supplier of the Wheeltop in the EU? I believe it was an EU website but I can't find it now.
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So, they did ship it, but it appears any replacement or warranty parts come from China, not the US warehouse where they stock new full kits :(. It has made it to US, but will likely be another week or so before it gets to me :(.
Surprisingly it arrived Wed, so once it hit the US it got here pretty quick. Synced up fine and charges to 100%, so hopefully the original one was just an anomaly. But have decided to go ahead and make the switch to 12sp since I had to buy a new crank anyway - but am still waiting on the crank (was supposed to be here Wed but no sign of it yet) to complete the install on the new frame.
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After setting up my Wheeltop EDS TX groupset, I have to say it was not fun. The biggest issue is dialing in the front derailleur. FD tuning makes very little sense and I had to use the "unauthorized" web based Wheeltop app for FD micro adjusting. The groupset is less hassle physically installing on a bike, but tuning takes 2-4 times longer compared to LTwoo. LTwoo at least gives precise control for tuning everything. No stupid random numbers. You see the RD and FD move in real-time for perfect tuning. Also Wheeltop RD protection seems half implemented since it only protects the two smallest cogs when in the small chainring, but you can still cross chain in the big/big chainring setup. With LTwoo, you can accidentally cross chain (if you FD shift in the big or small cog), but RD protection is active for both big/big and small/small.
I'll report back once I get more ride time in. Though I'm heavily leaning towards LTwoo if I had to pick a Chinese road groupset.
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While I'm happy with Wheeltop, I totally agree that the RD protection thing makes no sense. I disabled mine, but would like to have the option to block out big/big as my chain length doesn't allow it (long story) and I occasionally misshift there. Programable protection would be the bomb.
I hear stories about fd issues, mine was plug and play-x68w/ sram gxp crank.
My issue with ltwoo is the weird calipers, you have to use multiple adaptors on an x68. Guess you could swap them out easily enough, I ended up with Campy calipers on my Wheeltop for looks and weight.
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I hear stories about fd issues, mine was plug and play-x68w/ sram gxp crank.
My issue with ltwoo is the weird calipers, you have to use multiple adaptors on an x68. Guess you could swap them out easily enough, I ended up with Campy calipers on my Wheeltop for looks and weight.
I have the Wheeltop FD setup, but it's just weird. Instead of 1-2mm between the cage and chainring teeth, it's more like 5mm on my setup. If I lower the cage less than 5mm, the chainring rubs the top of the FD cage. Also I don't really care for the auto trim feature since big/big RD protection isn't even implemented. I would have preferred being able to tune the FD similar to RD, instead of having to use the that funky FD screw.
Actually the Wheeltop brake calipers are the best part of the whole groupset! If I don't get along with the EDS TX in the next few weeks, I'll throw on my spare ER9 groupset and keep the WT calipers in-place. ;D
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I also had good success with the TX FD setup, at least initially. It was probably 95% perfect, and I should have just left it alone lol. But I decided to drop it down a bit, align it a bit better and in the process got it all out of whack somehow... took about 30 minutes of fiddling, tweaking the screws, tweaking the angle, etc to get it right again. Oddly enough, it was the outer front of the cage that was causing my issues. But I finally got it sorted. Kinda the same story on the rear, was almost perfect, but did have some quirks, so I went to adjusting and basically wound up just starting all over on the rear again :(. I think the root of my RD issues are the oddball instructions for the initial adjust for the smallest cog - the whole "cage lines up with sprocket" translation which really doesn't make sense to me, so I try to line up the upper jockey wheel to smallest cog instead.
The gaps seem to get sorted out easily enough, but I occasionally get a chatter on an upshift, ie ch ch ch shift - which is AAF as it's not consistent. Not sure if it's a gear value that needs adjusting, or if it's a B-screw issue, or what. new chain, new cassette, so not a wear issue (unless it needs to "wear in" a bit maybe...
On both my sets (TX and OX) I do find I have to run a shorter chain that the comparable cable based setup it replaced, otherwise I get some chain droop in on the smaller end, and it seems it likes a larger b-screw gap tham other brands as well. Or maybe I'm just doing it wrong lol...
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I also had good success with the TX FD setup, at least initially. It was probably 95% perfect, and I should have just left it alone lol. But I decided to drop it down a bit, align it a bit better and in the process got it all out of whack somehow... took about 30 minutes of fiddling, tweaking the screws, tweaking the angle, etc to get it right again. Oddly enough, it was the outer front of the cage that was causing my issues. But I finally got it sorted. Kinda the same story on the rear, was almost perfect, but did have some quirks, so I went to adjusting and basically wound up just starting all over on the rear again :(. I think the root of my RD issues are the oddball instructions for the initial adjust for the smallest cog - the whole "cage lines up with sprocket" translation which really doesn't make sense to me, so I try to line up the upper jockey wheel to smallest cog instead.
The gaps seem to get sorted out easily enough, but I occasionally get a chatter on an upshift, ie ch ch ch shift - which is AAF as it's not consistent. Not sure if it's a gear value that needs adjusting, or if it's a B-screw issue, or what. new chain, new cassette, so not a wear issue (unless it needs to "wear in" a bit maybe...
On both my sets (TX and OX) I do find I have to run a shorter chain that the comparable cable based setup it replaced, otherwise I get some chain droop in on the smaller end, and it seems it likes a larger b-screw gap tham other brands as well. Or maybe I'm just doing it wrong lol...
Yeah, its jockey wheel to small. Its a poor translation. Hopefully Rotor will fix some of that. The chain length thing is cage length dependent, so it depends on what you're coming from.
As to the occasional slow shifts on "upshift" (assume you mean to larger cog) mine did that initially, usually on cogs 5-6-7, microtuning like 5 steps helped and going to a goldix cassette from ztto solved it.
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That was quick! I removed the Wheeltop EDS TX groupset and reinstalled my V1 LTwoo ER9 groupset. It took about 30 minutes to get the LTwoo FD calibrated correctly and everything now runs smoothly! I'll bin the Wheeltop for now and use it on a future build. LTwoo's app is on a whole other level when it comes to fine tuning.
These are some things I noticed with the EDS TX that really bugged me. For one, I needed a longer chain from my LTwoo setup. The slightly bigger Wheeltop RD cage required it. Even after initial calibration there were some quirks with the FD and even the RD. Sometimes it wouldn't shift correctly in certain gears. The FD calibration to me just was a headache. My level of expectations for these Chinese electronic groupsets is to meet or exceed mechanical Ultegra R8000. I can't say Wheeltop even matches the mechanical setup.
Also something I noticed with my GeX gravel setup and the EDS TX compared to the LTwoo equivalents is that drivetrain feels slightly more sluggish in actually riding. Maybe it's just the faster shifting and better ergonomic shifters, but Wheeltop doesn't feel enjoyable to me. I can dump gears with LTwoo, the FD responds when I need to shift and I don't have to think about it.
Given the choice, Wheeltop is just not there. Thankfully I didn't pay for the groupset! LTwoo is definitely the way to go for Chinese electronic groupsets.
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Perhaps I have been lucky? I originally set up my front derailleur on 50 X 36 front chain-rings and I had absolutely no problems aligning and adjusting the front derailleur. A year or 2 later I changed the rings to 48 X 32, and it was just as easy to move, align, and adjust my front derailleur.
(Time wise, It was by far more difficult to procure a 2X front 32 tooth chain-ring that fit my crank spider, than to adjust the front derailleur.)
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Yeah, its jockey wheel to small. Its a poor translation. Hopefully Rotor will fix some of that. The chain length thing is cage length dependent, so it depends on what you're coming from.
As to the occasional slow shifts on "upshift" (assume you mean to larger cog) mine did that initially, usually on cogs 5-6-7, microtuning like 5 steps helped and going to a goldix cassette from ztto solved it.
I ,mostly don't notice it when riding, actually - only when it's in the stand, tuning it, etc... Maybe it just needs a bit of pressure to really upshift (to larger cog) cleanly. I'll keep an eye/ear on it though - thanks.
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Perhaps I have been lucky? I originally set up my front derailleur on 50 X 36 front chain-rings and I had absolutely no problems aligning and adjusting the front derailleur. A year or 2 later I changed the rings to 48 X 32, and it was just as easy to move, align, and adjust my front derailleur.
(Time wise, It was by far more difficult to procure a 2X front 32 tooth chain-ring that fit my crank spider, than to adjust the front derailleur.)
I just set up the EDS TX for the first time and I must say I also found the process to be much easier than I expected. Mine was setup using a BigRock RS crankset with Leoseek PM spider and 12s Ultegra rings, mixed with a 10 speed Sensah (Sunshine) cassette and YBN chain - a temporary setup until the final wheels arrive for the build.
This was my process:
1) unscrew all limit screws (FD and RD) to ensure they weren't stopping the derailleur from moving
2) set front derailleur alignment using the Campagnolo front derailleur alignment tool (https://ccache.cc/products/campagnolo-front-derailleur-alignment-tool) (strongly recommend these for setting up any front derailleur), then tighten up the front derailleur.
3) set cassette (in this case, 10 speed)
4) go through initial calibration for RD. Ensure derailleur is in smallest cog position (which will only happen when front derailleur is in big chainring, unless you've used the DrEDS app to turn the gear protection off)
5) some cogs needed fine tuning, I adjusted the setting to be partway between the current number and the 'reference' nu-mber in the app (not sure what this is - maybe the default?) - this just takes a little trial and error
6) once you've got it shifting onto the largest cog set the b-screw (or what they call 'rear derailleur tension screw G') to be 8-10mm below the largest cog.
7) do the initial calibration for the FD. Set the initial calibration on the large chainring - move the FD out until it's about 1mm past touching the chain. In my case, this was 6 taps of the micro-adjustment after it had stopped touching.
8) test the trim positions of the FD. There's one for the top and bottom half of each chainring. In my case, setting the initial position properly was enough to get it to work well in all gears without further fine tuning.
First impressions from the garage
1) Bolts don't seem to be particularly well made. Be careful with them
2) Shifter buttons not as nice as Shimano or SRAM, but they're not bad.
3) Front shifting is definitely slower than Shimano, but it works fine
4) Not sure I can tell the difference in performance between casual mode and racing mode
5) No guidance is given for front derailleur positions if you're going to fine tune it. RD is obvious enough but FD seems illogical (which position correlates to which number?)
Other notes:
- I didn't use the support bracing screw on the front derailleur - but I'm using it with a clamp-on adapter
- I assume mine came with the new hoods, they were pretty easy to get off to adjust the position
- overall the shifter and lever feel quite nice, it's only the buttons that are lesser than Shimano/SRAM
- would be nice if it had a top button like Shimano/SRAM
- I paid ~380USD for mine from AliExpress during 11.11 sales - I'd say that's about what it's worth.
- It's still the easiest solution for anyone who wants 12 speed electronic rim-brake shifting and doesn't have a frame that supports Di2 (otherwise I'd suggest getting 12 speed Di2 instead)
- the manual is pretty useless. Just using the app is easy enough for setup
- with the price of the disc brake system it's very hard to recommend it over Shimano/SRAM alternatives. Only the rim brake system makes any financial sense (and that's mostly due to the lack of alternatives - or lack of availability of alternatives).
The bike it's going on will eventually have a 12 speed, 11-34 cassette going on when the right wheels come. If I was a little braver I'd consider trying the 52-36 chainrings out with a 10-36 XDR cassette to get massive range. Maybe some day.
Pic of the setup (for now):
(https://i.imgur.com/FVK8kKc.jpegp)
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Anyone seen any info on the TT version of this groupset? I see it on the Twitter T3 bike and in some ali stores but not on the wheeltop website. ( The prices aren't promising )
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809802392372.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2120.98%2110.81%21%21%21%21%21%40%2112000052420109679%21ppc%21%21%21&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=248-630-5778&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en3256809802392372&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5594678729&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=22974300163&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22970182241&gbraid=0AAAAACWaBwcnnk7YWltItAwgst6x6JClH&gclid=CjwKCAiAs4HMBhBJEiwACrfNZcqQTdKv0op0MAFEne30cQqKPAA40985T3Ez0SiTEDyjNWvIVasFnRoCIT8QAvD_BwE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Good news. Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site. (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.
https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt
Hi, I saw this link to this website that a colleague posted. I'd never heard of it before. I found the Wheeltop groupset cheaper than anywhere else, but I wanted to know about the website's reliability and if anyone has bought from them before. I hope I'm in the right thread. Thanks a lot.
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Hi, I saw this link to this website that a colleague posted. I'd never heard of it before. I found the Wheeltop groupset cheaper than anywhere else, but I wanted to know about the website's reliability and if anyone has bought from them before. I hope I'm in the right thread. Thanks a lot.
He's reliable. Just be sure that Wheeltop will warranty stuff from there or that he will. Wheeltop generally doesn't warranty stuff purchased outside of their official distribution.
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I am strangling to set front derailer to not rub the chain. Whatever I do, with limit screws, height of derailer and angle of derailer it will rub the chain in many gears. I am on 11 speed cassette and whatever I do chain will rub on one of the derailer guides before correcting to new position.
What is really strange is that limit screws for small chainring will also move derailer when chain is in big chainring. That is not how limit screws work on mechanical derailers.
I would start putting chain in big chainring and smallest cog on cassette. Then I would set limit screw so that chain is as close as possible to derailer’s outside guide. I can do this only by using limit screw that is for small chainring. Limit screw for big chainring is useless and do nothing.
In this case chain will start rubing derailer’s inside guide after moving few gears up and before it self adjust for higher gears.
Another problem is that when it self adjust to higher gears it does it to too much so it will rub derailer’s outside guide.
Can this be sorted by advanced fine tuning app feature that can be only provided by wheeltop support when asked ?
Also I have tried to use dreds web site recommended here on android phone and from windows laptop but it could not pair it with my group set. It simple does not find it. If I manage to pair it will I be able to sort these issue and will I be able to set front derailer movement that is needed ?
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concerning your FD fine-tune attempt....you need kind of clearence from wheeltop to be able to enter fine-tune for the FD.
So they have to grant the access for your account. but this only takes an Email...easy
connecting the group to your advice...have you tapped on the bluetooth icon...otherwise it won't connect.
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I really dislike the EDS TX FD. It's a PITA to dial-in properly. I'd rate Wheeltop GeX like 8/10, but EDS TX is like a 6.5/10 in my opinion and it's mainly because the FD spoils it's potential.
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concerning your FD fine-tune attempt....you need kind of clearence from wheeltop to be able to enter fine-tune for the FD.
So they have to grant the access for your account. but this only takes an Email...easy
connecting the group to your advice...
Thank. I have tried this few days ago and they said that they enabled my account. However, app is still not allowing me to do fine running and I believe that they did not set it properly so I have sent them another email yesterday but no response yet.
My question is more about will enabled fine running help me at all. Looking at front derailer find tunning screen it is hard to understand how to use it. Are these micro adjustments of front derailer based on selected rear gear ?
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With the dreds app, did you make sure you were disconnected from the Wheeltop app first? If the groupset is connected in the Wheeltop app then it won't show - just disconnect it.
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Thanks for all advice.
I have finally managed to get it working using Wheeltop app. Wheeltop support did not configure my account properly for the access to fine tuning so once I complained they fixed it and I now I managed to tune almost perfectly with small adjustments.
So here is my final verdict about this group set. I am comparing it to Shimano 105 di2 that I have installed on my lightcarbon LCR017d bike.
Is it similar to Shimano Di2 105 ?
No, but close. The main difference is that 105 di2 have two front derailer small adjustments when going through rear gears while wheeltop has only one. This means that it is hard for wheeltop front derailer to be tuned to get chain not rubbing guides in extreme combination such as large chainring and largest rear sprocket. This is also very common for mechanical group sets so not something that you cannot live with. Strangely enough, Wheeltop disabled the opposite extreme combination (small chainring, smallest rear sprocket) by default (can be overridden by dreds app).
Is it as fast or as precise as shimano 105 di2?
No, but not that is bothering me. It is still miles better than any mechanical group set that I used before and worth the money.
Who is this for ?
Wheeltop EDS TX rim brake version is the best upgrade for old rim brake frames with no internal cable routing capabilities. My 20 year old aluminium Cannondale CAAD frame is now as nice to ride as my new carbon bike. Easy and fast shifting really makes the difference.
I am not sure if I would use it on a disk frame because most of them are newish and have internal routing for derailer cables. In this case Ltwoo or Di2 105 would be better option with similar price.
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What's the dreds app guys?
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What's the dreds app guys?
https://dreds.jeckyll.net/
Repo here:
https://git.jeckyll.net/published/personal/eds-ox/-/tree/main
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What's the dreds app guys?
It also unlocks the FD fine tuning without wheeltop support email.
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Thank. I have tried this few days ago and they said that they enabled my account. However, app is still not allowing me to do fine running and I believe that they did not set it properly so I have sent them another email yesterday but no response yet.
My question is more about will enabled fine running help me at all. Looking at front derailer find tunning screen it is hard to understand how to use it. Are these micro adjustments of front derailer based on selected rear gear ?
There are five tunable positions IIRC. You'll have to search around for what the numbers mean or ask on the FB group. Its something like initial position, small ring trim position, initial big ring, big ring trim, limit or something like that.
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Thanks. It is clear to see what each parameter does inside wheeltop app because it shows the photo of the front deralier in position that paratemer is controlling. The first time I looked at this was inside dreds app that does not have a photo - just parameters so it was confusing.
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Hi, I've just bought the EDS TX last december and currently very happy with it.
Around 2500km and, except the initial setup, very happy, two battery charges until today in a pretty plain area -Madrid city, Spain-.
I would like to ask you for an alternate charge cable replacement not as expensive as the original ones.
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Hey TX'ers!
I recently ordered a replacement battery for my GeX groupset, but got the TX one. They haven't asked for it back, so if anyone EU-based (sorry, not keen on sorting customs stuff) needs/wants a TX replacement unit for the price of covering shipping, DM me. Looks like DHL shipping starts at 6,99€ (4,19€ if you're in DE).
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Hi, I want to add a derailleur hanger with ceramic rollers. I've seen that they have an official one from the brand that costs around 100 euros, but I want to know if there's another one that's also reliable and a bit cheaper.
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Hi, I want to add a derailleur hanger with ceramic rollers. I've seen that they have an official one from the brand that costs around 100 euros, but I want to know if there's another one that's also reliable and a bit cheaper.
I believe any of the ones spec'd for DA 12spd will fit and work. I used the SLS aero clone available on ali as an experiment, and it fit without modification. Its been on the bike for a full season without issues. I would note that it does reduce capacity a small amount in my application as the upper wheel (its oversized as well) prevents use of big/big with a 34t rear. A 32 would likely clear, as would running a slightly smaller upper pulley.
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Hello, looking to buy wheeltop eds tx, i have ultegra di2 right now. I would like to know if someone can measure and compare the shifter/hood reach between wheeltop and shimano as i am trying to know if I need to change stem lenght to keep same reaxh. Thanks
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Hey TX'ers!
I recently ordered a replacement battery for my GeX groupset, but got the TX one. They haven't asked for it back, so if anyone EU-based (sorry, not keen on sorting customs stuff) needs/wants a TX replacement unit for the price of covering shipping, DM me. Looks like DHL shipping starts at 6,99€ (4,19€ if you're in DE).
I would gladely take it to have a spare. Shipping to Germany. I can´t seem to send you a PM.
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Yeah, its jockey wheel to small. Its a poor translation. Hopefully Rotor will fix some of that. The chain length thing is cage length dependent, so it depends on what you're coming from.
As to the occasional slow shifts on "upshift" (assume you mean to larger cog) mine did that initially, usually on cogs 5-6-7, microtuning like 5 steps helped and going to a goldix cassette from ztto solved it.
Have a bit of time on the TX setup now. overall it's... acceptable, I guess. I mean, it works. It has some annoyances though. Minor leaking on both caliper pistons as previously reported. I'm sure WT would replace them, but I don't feel like pulling them off and waiting a couple weeks if I am being honest (the whole "send it in then we will ship the replacement") is a big turnoff. Levers rattle a bit at times, as others have noted. Rear bleed port is in an awkward spot, imo - hard to get fittings aligned when installing or bleeded, etc.
I constantly fight the ch-ch-ch when shifting. New (when TX installed) Ultegra cassette, new DuraAce/XT 12sp waxed chain. It's a bit maddening, because it doesn't happen every time, but more often than not. Adjusting it out is almost impossible, or at least to me it is - since it doesn't occur on every shift. So you think you might have it adjusted out, then it starts happening again. I've checked the hanger alignment, played with all kinds of B-screw clearances, reset initial setting and of course played with manual tuning to my wits end. When I get it as good as I can get it, I will still have some chatter in the middle of the cassette. It's truly maddening, tbh. Enough so that combined with the leakly pistons and rattling levers, I am considering just upgrading to DI2. Could repurpose this kit on my Gravel bike, or just sell it outright I suppose.
Maybe I should try that goldix cassette first, though. Just odd that higher end Ultegra cassette would be the issue. TBH I never heard of Goldix before the above poster mentioned it.
OH - Also Cade Media/Wild Things just did a test/review on the Rotor-branded Wheeltop kit, and thoroughly trashed it. Many of the issues they dealt with are common issues discussed here and on FB groups, so in reality it just appears they stuck the Rotor name on the TX group with some minor aesthetic changes... Having trouble posting the link, just search Cade Media on youtube it will be one of the recent vids...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SITOkQBaOVo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SITOkQBaOVo)
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...Enough so that combined with the leakly pistons and rattling levers, I am considering just upgrading to DI2. Could repurpose this kit on my Gravel bike, or just sell it outright I suppose.
Ehh, found a sweet deal locally on Ultregra di2, so am just going that direction. Will decide what to do with TX after I pull it off. It might work better on the less finicky 11sp GRX based setup on my gravel bike, but tbh the GRX mechanical is setup pretty much on point, I hate to mess with it lol... Anyway, the teardown begins (again lol). Good thing I enjoy turning wrenches on bikes :).
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Have a bit of time on the TX setup now. overall it's... acceptable, I guess. I mean, it works. It has some annoyances though. Minor leaking on both caliper pistons as previously reported. I'm sure WT would replace them, but I don't feel like pulling them off and waiting a couple weeks if I am being honest (the whole "send it in then we will ship the replacement") is a big turnoff. Levers rattle a bit at times, as others have noted. Rear bleed port is in an awkward spot, imo - hard to get fittings aligned when installing or bleeded, etc.
I constantly fight the ch-ch-ch when shifting. New (when TX installed) Ultegra cassette, new DuraAce/XT 12sp waxed chain. It's a bit maddening, because it doesn't happen every time, but more often than not. Adjusting it out is almost impossible, or at least to me it is - since it doesn't occur on every shift. So you think you might have it adjusted out, then it starts happening again. I've checked the hanger alignment, played with all kinds of B-screw clearances, reset initial setting and of course played with manual tuning to my wits end. When I get it as good as I can get it, I will still have some chatter in the middle of the cassette. It's truly maddening, tbh. Enough so that combined with the leakly pistons and rattling levers, I am considering just upgrading to DI2. Could repurpose this kit on my Gravel bike, or just sell it outright I suppose.
Maybe I should try that goldix cassette first, though. Just odd that higher end Ultegra cassette would be the issue. TBH I never heard of Goldix before the above poster mentioned it.
OH - Also Cade Media/Wild Things just did a test/review on the Rotor-branded Wheeltop kit, and thoroughly trashed it. Many of the issues they dealt with are common issues discussed here and on FB groups, so in reality it just appears they stuck the Rotor name on the TZ group with some minor aesthetic changes... Having trouble posting the link, just search Cade Media on youtube it will be one of the recent vids...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SITOkQBaOVo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SITOkQBaOVo)
Which caliper you use? There are 3 wheeltop models..thanks
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not want to judge any of them "Influenza"-guys on YT...I do watch them as well from times...
so just my 2ct on my Rotor Uno setup.
running it on my Yoeleo gravel Altera...1x13
set it up with 13sp AXS 10-46 Force cassette, flattop chain
(there is one thing you do need: a custom derailleur hangar)
and it just works perfect...so I cannot imagine why they were not able to install a clean shifting 11-46.
anyhow...thats just my experience
(yes, calipers are somewhere near an Ultegra brake...)
cheers
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Which caliper you use? There are 3 wheeltop models..thanks
The latest TX calipers - not sure what they are officially called. But the new ones.
I moved the TX groupset to my Gravel bike, figured I would try it there before selling it, as I suspect I'll take a beating if I do sell it :(. But, tbh it seems to be working better with 11sp (Shimano). Had to really max out the FD setup to deal with the GRX wider chainline, but it does reach. Re the issues on the 12sp Domani - my guess is that 12/13sp might be a bit problematic for the TX, while the (relatively) more straightforward 10/11sp setups it does better with. But just a guess. Might be some operator error in there as well lol, although I worked on it quite a bit (several weeks) before deciding to pull it.
Also, when I pulled the brakes this time there was no mineral oil on the backs of the pads, so maybe it was just a "getting the pistons seated" kinda deal... first time there was quite a bit (as pictured in my OP), 2nd time I pulled the pads to check there was still a bit, but less than the first time, and this time there was none.
I will say, one complaint I still have is the shorter chain requirement of the WT setups in general (due to smaller derailleur cogs based on comment earlier in the thread) - you basically "ruin" a chain because you've shortened it past what most other group/brand setups would need. So my advice to anyone "on the fence" would be to start with a lower cost chain, that way if you decide you don't like it and move to something else, you won't have effed up your DA chain :(. For my swap to the 11sp gravel, I put a couple links back in it since moving from 11-30 to 11-34 cassette, and didn't want to cut another chain lol. I know that's not the norm anymore, but before quick links we all used to re-pin chains, so it will do for testing, anyway.
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not want to judge any of them "Influenza"-guys on YT...I do watch them as well from times...
so just my 2ct on my Rotor Uno setup.
running it on my Yoeleo gravel Altera...1x13
set it up with 13sp AXS 10-46 Force cassette, flattop chain
(there is one thing you do need: a custom derailleur hangar)
and it just works perfect...so I cannot imagine why they were not able to install a clean shifting 11-46.
anyhow...thats just my experience
(yes, calipers are somewhere near an Ultegra brake...)
cheers
Nice... well I guess that blows my 12/13sp theory out the window lol... Although it is the Rotor version not the TX... and 1x instead of 2x, which might be part of the TX issues.
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;D ... well
on my road bike I set up my wheeltop GEX 1x12
running it with a Goldix 10-44 12sp cassette and flattop chain.
smooth running.
and yes I also have the edsTX version, but converted completely to 1x on RR and GR
btw i have the GEX paired to Shimano Ultegra calipers (works well, bit smoother)
now to edsTX...the front derailleur is a bit weak in terms of moving the chain under power.
and if you experience some weird ghost shifting on your rear der. , I did find 1 possible culprit.
you have the mounting screw and kind of underneath the "radial" linkage which mounts to your hanger.
if you tightened the screw and there is still a lot of wiggle/waggle movement, then maybe the O-ring underneath is worn.
I managed to squeeze in a new O-ring and it sits tight again...no more ghost shifts.
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I am just building up a road bike with EDS TX. I read something here about it needing a shorter chain than usual. What is that about? I ordered some 13&14 jockey wheels with bearings as a replacement for the stock 12&12. Hopefully they fit well but don't think they will appear chain length.
Also I am still undecided between 12s 11-30 or 11-34 cassette. Do you think the shifting will be better with the 11-30 and a slightly shorter chain.
Is it possible to block the large-large combination in the drEDS app?
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No, you can't block the large large, and the bigger pulley wheels might give you fits with a 34. The 30 will be fine. I can't use the big/big with a 34 on a TX with an ospw and chain length set that allows use of 3 smallest cogs on little ring due to jockey wheel interference. I can set b tension so that it doesn't lock up but it still grinds and the mid cassette shifting goes to hell with high b tension. I'm going to go back to longer chain and block the smaller cogs, which you can do.
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not want to judge any of them "Influenza"-guys on YT...I do watch them as well from times...
so just my 2ct on my Rotor Uno setup.
running it on my Yoeleo gravel Altera...1x13
set it up with 13sp AXS 10-46 Force cassette, flattop chain
(there is one thing you do need: a custom derailleur hangar)
and it just works perfect...so I cannot imagine why they were not able to install a clean shifting 11-46.
anyhow...thats just my experience
(yes, calipers are somewhere near an Ultegra brake...)
cheers
I was thinking about using the same setup for my new bike. Care to explain what the custom derailleur hangar was needed for?
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I will say, one complaint I still have is the shorter chain requirement of the WT setups in general (due to smaller derailleur cogs based on comment earlier in the thread) - you basically "ruin" a chain because you've shortened it past what most other group/brand setups would need. So my advice to anyone "on the fence" would be to start with a lower cost chain, that way if you decide you don't like it and move to something else, you won't have effed up your DA chain :(. For my swap to the 11sp gravel, I put a couple links back in it since moving from 11-30 to 11-34 cassette, and didn't want to cut another chain lol. I know that's not the norm anymore, but before quick links we all used to re-pin chains, so it will do for testing, anyway.
Well this didn't age well, re-pin didn't last 50 miles. Maybe user error, haven't re-pinned a chain in years of course. At least it broke at the end of the ride, literally right at the start of my driveway lol.
Went back to the 11sp chain I used originally with GRX 11-34, and it is working fine. TBH I don't recall why I didn't use it to begin with. I think I just didn't want that nice but now too short for pretty much anything :( xtr chain to go to waste maybe
No, you can't block the large large, and the bigger pulley wheels might give you fits with a 34. The 30 will be fine. I can't use the big/big with a 34 on a TX with an ospw and chain length set that allows use of 3 smallest cogs on little ring due to jockey wheel interference. I can set b tension so that it doesn't lock up but it still grinds and the mid cassette shifting goes to hell with high b tension. I'm going to go back to longer chain and block the smaller cogs, which you can do.
Yeah this is what i was running into, literally physically impossible to shift into B/B with the chain I was using from the road 52/36 11-30 setup (switching to 48/31 11-34 on the gravel bike). I mean, one normally wouldn't be in B/B anyway, but I could see accidently getting into it and effing something up (:. Adding the two links gave me enough chain (tbh, 3 would have been better), but as mentioned above it didn't last.
I'm was thinking of putting the 11-42 on and testing with it, but will need to order a lower price chain b/c I'm not cutting any more of my xtr/da chains that short again :(. But it sounds like it probably wouldn't work very well anyway.
What's the procedure to block smaller cogs? the dreds jeckyll app?
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Why didn't you use a second quick link instead of a pin?
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Why didn't you use a second quick link instead of a pin?
Hmm, tbh I didn't even know that was a thing :). Will keep in mind for next time. I still have the chain, just marked "short" lol. So I will try it when I pull it out again. Although I added two links, and tbh 3 would have been better - so adding a 2nd QL might not have made a difference. But I will check as I hate for that XTR chain to go to waste.
It would likely work fine as is if I switch to an 11-30, which I have one pulled from my road bike when I upgraded to Di2 (11-34). But this is my gravel bike, so not sure about running a 30 max rear cog. Heck I was thinking of dropping in the 11-42 even lol.
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What's the procedure to block smaller cogs? the dreds jeckyll app?
There's a setting "rd protection" or something like that in the dreds app that allows you to toggle it on or off. If you've only used the factory app, it should be on by default.
I don't repin chains-just use another quick link. Its not a problem. There's stories of a guy who built an entire chain of quick links and rode it for a few hundred miles. I have over 2k on a chain with two, but my max sprint is only 700w or so.
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There's a setting "rd protection" or something like that in the dreds app that allows you to toggle it on or off. If you've only used the factory app, it should be on by default.
I don't repin chains-just use another quick link. Its not a problem. There's stories of a guy who built an entire chain of quick links and rode it for a few hundred miles. I have over 2k on a chain with two, but my max sprint is only 700w or so.
Yeah I use dreds... ok will look for it. I have the "oem" protection still that I have not modified, ie blocking the bottom 3 on the small CR.
I'm going to order a cheap 105 or kmx chain and try that 11-42 :). Might be a waste of money, but will have another spare chain at the worst b/c it will be cut longer than any of my other sets would use.
Re the QL's, I will keep that in mind, b/c that DA/XTR chain is not that old and $$$. If I switch the road bike back to 11-30 (which I am likely going to do, not sure why I put the 11-34 on there), then I can probably use it there.
TBH I kinda wish I had the GX set now instead of the TX - since it's on the gravel bike, I'd prefer a single/mullet setup there. But would also have to change cranksets or do some modification to my GRX crankset I guess also. Got too many cranksets laying around as it is - the original praxis that came on it, a GRX 165 2x I tried, the GRX 170 2x I am running now, plus the Ultegra 52/36 on the road bike and a 50/34 Ultregra also...sigh.
I have the OX on my Niner, it works reasonably well. I don't really push that bike, it's more of a casual riding around fun bike, not any serious hardcore MTB stuff. light trails, beaches, bebopping around the neighborhood stuff, etc. ie, not worthy of a $1000-2000 electronic upgrade. But worth the $300 or so the OX cost last black friday :).
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I'm going to order a cheap 105 or kmx chain and try that 11-42 :). Might be a waste of money, but will have another spare chain at the worst b/c it will be cut longer than any of my other sets would use.
Well being the generally impatient type, I decided to go ahead and use one of my spare 11sp DA chains and swapped out the 11-34 to the 11-42. Figure if it doesn't work I haven't messed up my chain since I won't have cut very much off so can still use it later on 11-34 setups still.
Changeover went pretty well... the TX RD has barely enough range for the 42, at least in stock setup. I don't have the 8-10mm gap on the big cog they recommend, closer to 4-6mm (if that) which is what Shimano typically rec's iirc. It still shifts to the 42 up/down fine, perhaps a tad slower than the other cogs, but no noise, etc. This is all on the stand, I'll give it a proper test ride later today.
B-screw is maxed, at least maxed with that little black plastic keeper nut thing, which I'm not sure is really necessary tbh. Removing it I could easily get 3-4 more turns on the b-screw. I also have a WT Road link I could put on, but would rather not unless I absolutely need it, to keep things simple. Or I could drop down to an 11-40 which I also have.
Still, I think a bit more gap would be ideal...
<EDIT> Did a quick 10km loop around the neighborhood... no issues shifting up/down on the 42. Still, when I got back I went ahead and removed that little black plastic "donut" which allowed me to get a few more turns on the screw. I put a dab of blue Loctite on it, but I don't suspect it is going anywhere. Def gives a bit more gap/breathing room, and sits on the hanger shelf fine. Still (and now realizing my CS is 48/31, not 50/36 lol), I'm not sure the use case for a 42 on the back is really there for me. North Florida US just does not have that much in the way of elevation changes. 31/42 is comically slow lol, and hard to even use unless finding a hill of some degree to plod up. But, I figure it might be useful for bikepacking off paved roads b/c of added weight, which is my Checkpoint's alter ego :).
(Before removing the "donuT")...
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZ6Xj1z4/screenshot-7.png)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kGJTZk71/screenshot-6.png)
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Cool, I've thought about removing the keeper. My issue has been that when I use enough b screw to clear the large cog the mid cassette shifting goes to hell, changes in mid gears become very slow...
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Well being the generally impatient type, I decided to go ahead and use one of my spare 11sp DA chains and swapped out the 11-34 to the 11-42. Figure if it doesn't work I haven't messed up my chain since I won't have cut very much off so can still use it later on 11-34 setups still.
well it was a fun experiment, but I've pulled the 11-42 and switched back to the stock 11-34. I just don't have the elevation changes around here to make use of the 42 tooth cog. Much like the 52 on my Niner, it's comical to try and use it.
Will keep it in reserve and toss it on for bikepacking maybe...
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well it was a fun experiment, but I've pulled the 11-42 and switched back to the stock 11-34. I just don't have the elevation changes around here to make use of the 42 tooth cog. Much like the 52 on my Niner, it's comical to try and use it.
Will keep it in reserve and toss it on for bikepacking maybe...
And, well I split the difference, since I also had an 11-40 laying around. Put it on, plenty of b-screw for the 40, and shifts pretty well. Oddly I had to bump almost each cog by 10, which tbh surprised me as one would think the spacing on all Shimano 11sp cassettes would be the same. Anyway, figure it would come in handy crossing this lovely little "hill"... this is what passes for elevation in Florida lol.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YqGTXV9n/screenshot-437.png)
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I just ordered 18T Hollow Pulley Wheel after some users reported it works with EDS TX. Waiting to arrive and I'll report back after the installation and use.
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Hi, I've searched the thread, but I haven't found anyone who had the same issue before, so here we go:
I have been a user of the WheelTop EDS TX for about 1.5 years now (probably ~10k km), but a few days ago I noticed that the shifting in the rear has become completely unreliable. Sometimes it skips gears, sometimes it doesn't shift at all. I did not change anything on the bike lately, so this definitely surprised me.
First thing I noticed was that one of the springs in the rear derailleur is broken, so I took it out, shortened it and bent it so it exerts tension on the housing again. I don't know how long has the spring been broken for, and I am not sure it caused the problem in the first place, but it certainly seems like it didn't resolve it. Next thing I figured out was that I can adjust the initial offset in the 12th gear all I want, but after a few shifts up and down, the derailleur is stuck in the 11th gear again. I can readjust the initial position indefinitely, but after some shifting it stops going into the smallest cog -- if only by a little bit every time. It is a weird issue and I am wondering if there is something else that I should check.
So, concrete questions I have:
- is there an option to factory reset the groupset? I can't find it in the app or on the internet.
- do you think I need a new rear derailleur?
- is new WheelTop hardware still compatible with the one from the ~2 years ago? Will a new rear derailleur work with other parts remaining the same?
- does it even make sense to buy the rear derailleur only? It costs ~325€ (270€ before taxes) before applying coupons on AliExpress. What are other sensible options?
I am also attaching a video of another potential issue I noticed. It doesn't explain the problem I described above, but I am wondering if your rear derailleurs exhibit the same play as in the video.
Any other ideas also welcome & thank you very much.
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UPDATE: The issue got resolved, but the resolution is also weird. After a while, I noticed that the "racing mode" is not persistent anymore. For example, I set the racing mode ON and sleep mode ON in the dreds app, and that was how I have kept it for the last 2 years. However, I recently noticed that when I opened the official WheelTop app, the mode was sometimes shown as standard, and sometimes as racing. Even when I switched from the standard to racing mode in the official app, it would sometimes stay that way for some time and then switch back in front of my eyes.
Maybe by some weird combination of switching modes in both apps, or simply by trying enough times, the modes in both apps now seem permanent and consistent: standard mode with sleep mode on. I had to reindex the gears, but for the last 200km the issue has not popped up yet. Note, that earlier the problem would arise after a few gear shifts every time.
I doubt (and hope) any of you will have the same issue in the near future, but just for the sake of documenting a solution to my own problem I post this here so that this does not remain unanswered.
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New firmware updates for all parts today. There's also mention of a v2 app that allows fine tuning of the position for each derailleur (hopefully that means live fine-tuning, as that's probably the biggest setup issue with the groupset currently). The v2 app doesn't seem to be available yet but I will do the firmware updates once it is.
EDIT: Did all the updates. Right shifter firmware reset the settings on it (so you'll have to configure buttons again). The new app is available and FINALLY ALLOWS FOR LIVE FINE-TUNING!!! Better late than never. Shifter firmware updates apparently now increase battery life, and the RD ANT+ profile has been updated related to the battery settings - hopefully that now means it shows low battery at a lower battery percentage (rather than the 50% it was before).
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New firmware updates for all parts today. There's also mention of a v2 app that allows fine tuning of the position for each derailleur (hopefully that means live fine-tuning, as that's probably the biggest setup issue with the groupset currently). The v2 app doesn't seem to be available yet but I will do the firmware updates once it is.
EDIT: Did all the updates. Right shifter firmware reset the settings on it (so you'll have to configure buttons again). The new app is available and FINALLY ALLOWS FOR LIVE FINE-TUNING!!! Better late than never. Shifter firmware updates apparently now increase battery life, and the RD ANT+ profile has been updated related to the battery settings - hopefully that now means it shows low battery at a lower battery percentage (rather than the 50% it was before).
I haven't received any updates for the Wheeltop app on iOS, nor do I see any new ones available. The new version of the app you mentioned, V2, isn't showing up as updated. Is it only for Android, or does it have a different name?
I'll try updating both the EDS TX and GEX later.
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It's not in the Play Store yet, but the author of the third party DrEDS app has made it available on his website here:
https://dreds.jeckyll.net/wtapp/1787577235493WheelTopNew-202-1.9.80-release.apk
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New firmware updates for all parts today. There's also mention of a v2 app that allows fine tuning of the position for each derailleur (hopefully that means live fine-tuning, as that's probably the biggest setup issue with the groupset currently). The v2 app doesn't seem to be available yet but I will do the firmware updates once it is.
EDIT: Did all the updates. Right shifter firmware reset the settings on it (so you'll have to configure buttons again). The new app is available and FINALLY ALLOWS FOR LIVE FINE-TUNING!!! Better late than never. Shifter firmware updates apparently now increase battery life, and the RD ANT+ profile has been updated related to the battery settings - hopefully that now means it shows low battery at a lower battery percentage (rather than the 50% it was before).
Thanks. Live fine tuning is cool. I'm afraid of updates but will install...
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The updates are available in the official app.
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FWIW, BikeControl App is trying to support Wheeltop EDS TX "extra" Shifter button task assignment similar to Shimano and SRAM bonus buttons... it's not fully there yet but he's trying to get it to work. Reach out if interested I know he was looking for folks to test, etc.
https://bikecontrol.app/ (https://bikecontrol.app/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VsKGJPs2/screenshot-447.png)
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I might have to give Wheeltop TX another try. The groupset is sitting in my drawer right now. ;D
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I have the OS kit on my Niner MTB, but replaced the EDS TX with GRX Di2 on my Gravel bike. It's not a bad groupset, especially at 1/3 the price of Di2, but in the end since I have Di2 on my road bike and was accustomed to how it performed and its features etc I wanted it on my Gravel bike as well.
Shameless plug, my lightly used EDS TX groupset is listed in the Chinertown Classifieds... :).
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Great news.
Hope now I can get my FD perfect, because I could never get it not to rub when riding in the biggest cog.
I´ll give my feedback after I try it
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Great news.
Hope now I can get my FD perfect, because I could never get it not to rub when riding in the biggest cog.
I´ll give my feedback after I try it
You can adjust all the trim positions on the FD with the new app - having gone through and re-done all the FD positions now it's definitely worthwhile doing so. This is the app they needed to launch with rather than release it three years later - I expect it would have made people feel very different about the setup process.
I did a quick comparison of FD shifting speed compared to the 105 Di2 on my other road bike since the firmware noted some changes to FD shifting in the new firmware. I have mine set to race mode (using the DrEDS web app so it still sleeps properly as well). Downshifts are approximately the same speed, upshifts are maybe 0.3s-0.5s slower.
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Just found that the Magene PES charging cable also works for the Wheeltop group, and seems to have a slightly better hold than the original cable. Handy if you happen to have one lying around, or need a spare.
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Just found that the Magene PES charging cable also works for the Wheeltop group, and seems to have a slightly better hold than the original cable. Handy if you happen to have one lying around, or need a spare.
I think they're reasonably generic-my older Sigeyi cable works fine as well.