Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: patliean1 on October 23, 2024, 08:29:27 AM
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https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html (https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html)
A far better alternative than buying a bottom bracket exploding fake SL8 in my opinion. Identical geometry of course. Maybe I should get one to compare to my actual Tarmac SL8
Seraph is the "brand" counterpart to Tantan if I'm not mistaken...
EDIT: Even the geometry chart is using a photo of a frame with an SL7 Tarmac stem and spacers ;D
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And who says this is not the same production? Just another distribution :s
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I've built two road frames up from TanTan/Seraph. Both were loosely inspired off western brands (Scott Foil and Trek Madone) but not identical in geometry. Very solid given the price. I also a TanTan/Tideace GR201 gravel frame on order.
This particular X-68 is conflicting. TanTan is a legitimate brand/factory/whatever and they make reputable products. This is this the first time I've seen them release a product to be straight up clone. Not similar in design or "inspired" like their X-34 and X-38. Actual one to one. From the saddle clamp to the Roval handlebars.
I just hope these frames aren't being supplied to the overwhelming number of fake sellers on AliX
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On an older counterfeit frame I received documents with a reference to TFSA JH model. Was an SL7, was a good frame but I really don't know what brand to trust anymore.
Maybe they just bought those and repainted them.
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Don’t discard the possibility that big western brand stuck with too much inventory move their overstock through back channels rather than discount heavily under their name which would not be good for their high end and exclusive image…
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28C only with that huge front fork? xD
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I've built two road frames up from TanTan/Seraph. Both were loosely inspired off western brands (Scott Foil and Trek Madone) but not identical in geometry. Very solid given the price. I also a TanTan/Tideace GR201 gravel frame on order.
This particular X-68 is conflicting. TanTan is a legitimate brand/factory/whatever and they make reputable products. This is this the first time I've seen them release a product to be straight up clone. Not similar in design or "inspired" like their X-34 and X-38. Actual one to one. From the saddle clamp to the Roval handlebars.
I just hope these frames aren't being supplied to the overwhelming number of fake sellers on AliX
Is it the same feeling as when Velobuild made their 218/Dogma F frame?
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This frame being offered by Tantan is an unfortunate consequence of the high demand and interest in counterfeits. A few sellers, like Airwolf, have moved from open molds to mostly selling copies of other frames. I have no idea if these are better quality than other copies, but I doubt it. Afterall, where does the money spent go? Probably not into doing actual engineering work.
Don’t discard the possibility that big western brand stuck with too much inventory move their overstock through back channels rather than discount heavily under their name which would not be good for their high end and exclusive image…
LOL at them being overstock from a Western brand. This doesn't happen unless that Western brand sells a catalog frame. It does happen for open molds or for molds where someone has bought exclusivity for several years but doesn't own the design. That is not the case for Cervelo, Specialized, Factor, and Pinarello, which are also not using these factories.
There are also visible differences between this frame and legit SL8 if you look close enough.
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Is it the same feeling as when Velobuild made their 218/Dogma F frame?
I've also built up a VB-168 and VB-268 from Velobuild. Both are essentially SL7 clones. Each frame was solid, with the 268 being stiffer. Neither frames ride anything like the Tarmac and this quickly becomes apparent over bad pavement.
With that said, I'd say TanTan makes more robust frames than Velobuild's offerings. So on paper this new X-68 should ride more similar to the SL8 than the VB-268 does the SL7.
However, I just don't believe TanTan/Seraph are actually manufacturing these new frames. I suspect as @Ludo said TanTan might just be playing broker/agent here. The real question is where is this overstock coming from...
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Yeah, that frame looks interesting, but only 28 mm clearance pretty much makes it a no go for me. But maybe this is a conservative estimate? If 30 mm would fit well, I guess it would be acceptable. Anyone got it and can report?
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It takes years to build a reputation and minutes to destroy it.
I guess tantan being on the market for so long wants to keep their reputation. Selling bad/other factories stuff could harm much more than any short term benefit
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The frame is also available on tantan's website: http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1160
Certainly interesting, not super sure how I feel about but I do like the look of the SL8 and wouldn't mind picking this frame up
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I just noticed that there is a matching decals kit for Redbull Bora on Speedy Decals. Hmm...
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I mean Seraph/Tantan are also selling fake Ostro Vam's pretty much. Aside from the seatpost it's literally a Factor.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007911929673.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%21C%24%20676.24%21C%24%20540.99%21%21%21478.14%21382.51%21%402101c59817297233606821177eef77%2112000042815179356%21sh%21CA%213856195575%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007599420335.1005007911929673
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Been disappointed by claimed weights too many times. I will be shocked if this comes in under 900g unpainted. Not hard to get a 9xx frame, I just got a Cervelo R5 "inspired" Tantan disc frame that came in around 950g with chameleon paint. Hey guys a 2lb plastic bike frame is still pretty impressive lol. Im a weight weenie but theres limits
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There is no way this is only 28c clearance. My last frame from TanTan said 28c and I fit 32c. They seem to be very conservative with measurements for some reason.
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literally a fake SL8 frame, no wonder my eps moulded SL8 will be ready soon.
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
Unless you want to drill holes the information displayed is quite straighforward :)
Even the pics don't show any holes. And I think that their definition of wireless doesn't encompass Shimano di2 once even these need holes.
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
There are no cable exit holes, so only wireless I guess...
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There are no cable exit holes, so only wireless I guess...
I only see an underside battery cable hole for the RD and it looks like the battery cable for the FD is behind the front hanger. So definitely electronic only.
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I't like to see better pics of the headset-spacers. If these look clean, I'll be buying this. Too bad it looks like a copy, but an aero-ish leightweight bike that is kinda goodlooking is what I'm looking for. It's this or the Velobuild 268. The TanTan might be better.
Also interesting is the option to buy this with the gravel bike 201 from TanTan and only pay shipping once :)
Now I need to wheelsets :) Leighweight road for 28c tires and a wide gravel wheelset (both from one seller). Guess Elite is the way to go :)
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Also interesting is the option to buy this with the gravel bike 201 from TanTan and only pay shipping once :)
fingers crossed but i guess this will not happen. Orderd two wheelsets and they wanted shipping for both
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Some details, like the bottom bracket, look very much like the one i got from yohobike. Hopefully the exploding BB is a individual case. So far no problems with mine, and i can put down some serious numbers above 1000w .
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Some details, like the bottom bracket, look very much like the one i got from yohobike. Hopefully the exploding BB is a individual case. So far no problems with mine, and i can put down some serious numbers above 1000w .
Let's hope it's not the same frame. I've hammered mine multiple times 1300w + to but I'm mostly the leadout guy. 20s 1000w isn't rare but should be able to handle these kinds of stress
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Let's hope it's not the same frame. I've hammered mine multiple times 1300w + to but I'm mostly the leadout guy. 20s 1000w isn't rare but should be able to handle these kinds of stress
Even if you were cranking high watts I would still presume a threaded BB could handle the stress. It seems the BB threads weren't bonded correctly leading to eventual failure. Perhaps pressfit BBs aren't so bad, especially if using a threaded PF.
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I like the specs and such etc, but I really don't like how it's a blatant copy paste. If it were just inspired with notable differences I might be interested, but riding such a blatant counterfeit is just too wrong to me.
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Yeah, that is also my issue with the frame. I don't mind identical geometry, but they shouldn't have gone for a one-to-one copy aesthetically.
FYI, Rose sent me photos of the clearance in the back with 28 mm tires. Looks like there's loads of clearance, as expected. No photo of the fork, but I expect lots of clearance there as well. After all it looks exactly like the SL8...
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$629 frame + $150 shipping + $31 PayPal convenience fee = $810 And that doesn't include custom paint which is probably another $70. So probably $900 USD total
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't super intrigued about getting the frameset, slapping on some decals, and comparing it to my SL8. But $900 is a lot to gamble on. Especially when previous homage-type frames were decent for the price but missed the mark when comparing to their western brand counter-parts. A comparison probably unfair to make anyway.
Even if I convinced TanTan to send me a frame for review, they told me they aren't promoting this frame. For obvious reasons.
I still want one because....budget frames is life.
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I still want one because....budget frames is life.
strange, 2 days ago it cost 589$, that I had put in the cart. now 629$.
it's about 120$ more than the velobuild 268 in my pole position.
I'm undecided
anyway PAT we vote for you, do the comparison
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strange, 2 days ago it cost 589$, that I had put in the cart. now 629$.
it's about 120$ more than the velobuild 268 in my pole position.
I'm undecided
anyway PAT we vote for you, do the comparison
There are a lot of price increases before the 11-11 sale. Part of the strategy to make you believe you are getting a better sale price during the sale.
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I'm waiting for the BF ;D
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They also sent me another pic of the fork (didn't even ask for it) with 28 mm tires installed. Good clearance for wider tires as well as far as I can tell.
Still not sure if I should go for it. I really want a lightweight-ish frame though and the geometry is just spot on...
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Still not sure if I should go for it. I really want a lightweight-ish frame though and the geometry is just spot on...
It depends I guess.... If you always ride alone it could be OK, but if you do group rides, there will definitely be some real SL8's and it will be a little (or a lot) embarrassing to ride a fake...
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It depends I guess.... If you always ride alone it could be OK, but if you do group rides, there will definitely be some real SL8's and it will be a little (or a lot) embarrassing to ride a fake...
Unless of course you put no specialialized/SL8 logo's on the fake bike and beat them at every KOM on your bike that's only 1/10th of the price of theirs :)
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$629 frame + $150 shipping + $31 PayPal convenience fee = $810 And that doesn't include custom paint which is probably another $70. So probably $900 USD total
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't super intrigued about getting the frameset, slapping on some decals, and comparing it to my SL8. But $900 is a lot to gamble on. Especially when previous homage-type frames were decent for the price but missed the mark when comparing to their western brand counter-parts. A comparison probably unfair to make anyway.
Even if I convinced TanTan to send me a frame for review, they told me they aren't promoting this frame. For obvious reasons.
I still want one because....budget frames is life.
I would not get one if I already had an SL8. I am currently building an R5 clone.... I have no idea how an R5 rides so I won't know what I'm missing.
Unless of course you put no specialialized/SL8 logo's on the fake bike and beat them at every KOM on your bike that's only 1/10th of the price of theirs :)
You could do that with pretty much any China brand bike though, without the silliness of trying to pass off a counterfeit frame as real.
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Of course I wouldn't put a fake S-Works logo on it, that would be extremely silly... I think it's fine to see such a frame as heavily inspired by the original, but standing on its own. It's not an exact replica, after all (otherwise we wouldn't be talking about tire clearance etc.).
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Fuck you mean it's not an exact replica? I bet that shit was 3d scanned, imported to cad and went straight to mold design
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Fuck you mean it's not an exact replica? I bet that shit was 3d scanned, imported to cad and went straight to mold design
I guess you're right... I just want to spin it positively perhaps. ::)
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C'mon Mr.Lino, just hurry up and order one so you can tell us how it compares to a real SL8...
I bet it's just gnawing away at you. Pretty soon you won't be able to think about anything else ;D
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T-Werks labels in the Specialized font would be fun and cheeky.
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I still vote for ASS-WORKS, but i'm wired weird.
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I knew someone with a yellow Specialized in the '90s that removed the i and the z from the down tube labels and added Short Bus model labels.
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C'mon Mr.Lino, just hurry up and order one so you can tell us how it compares to a real SL8...
I bet it's just gnawing away at you. Pretty soon you won't be able to think about anything else ;D
What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
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I would reach out to Tantan to see if they'll send you a frame....
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I would reach out to Tantan to see if they'll send you a frame....
It is best to order the frame as an anonymous in order to don't have a "special" QC because of the notoriety.
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What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
With 3500 curious hits on this thread I don't think it's actually a bad shout, I'd be in for fifteen:-)
You could raffle the frame off after full testing and donate to charity.... Everyone wins!
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What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
You should try, I would donate for sure :)
Maybe that would be even a new business model, if people want to see a review for a potential purchase, they might consider this an insurance :)
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You could raffle the frame off after full testing and donate to charity.... Everyone wins!
I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
Just need the feats of strength to make it feel complete
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For the terminal use of the frame, I'd vote for a dystopian thing where some child molester has to ride the bike down a very long, very steep road, straight into a solid brick wall. I want slow mo cameras at the point of impact, I want a terminal velocity over 70kmh, I want blood, guts, pink mist really, blowing up. Obviously, the bike has no brakes. I'm not sure how practical it would be to prevent the guy from trying to save himself, so probably there are guard rails with various lovely knick knacks, like razor blades, rusty barb wire, maybe some embankments with broken glass.
And then the victims and their families get to piss on the carcass.
Then you discard the bike and chuck the remains in the compost bin.
That would sell so well as pay per view content. And bits of the impact would make great tiktok videos.
The show would need a nice title, maybe something demure like "piss on the carcass"?
I should work in media.
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Tantan claims that it is full T1000 (not any T700 or T800). What do you think ? (Brittle, fragile,...)
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
The challenge is maybe the size of the frame? I think you ride a 56 right?
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I can fit a 56, so still in for fifteen lol ;D
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(https://i.imgur.com/9cIO8Ta_d.webp?maxwidth=760&fidelity=grand)
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Tantan claims that it is full T1000 (not any T700 or T800). What do you think ? (Brittle, fragile,...)
email them leading the question with what's the approximate mix of fibers between T700, T800 and T1000?
If you tell them that, it's going to be harder for them to claim it's full T1000.
If you simply ask "is it full T1000?" they might not feel they're lying by saying yes.
China is culturally very different, and the language as well. What's B&W for us can be a satisfying shade of grey for them.
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email them leading the question with what's the approximate mix of fibers between T700, T800 and T1000?
If you tell them that, it's going to be harder for them to claim it's full T1000.
If you simply ask "is it full T1000?" they might not feel they're lying by saying yes.
China is culturally very different, and the language as well. What's B&W for us can be a satisfying shade of grey for them.
I asked for the mix but they said full T1000.
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I asked for the mix but they said full T1000.
A little bird tells me that's impossible, but maybe that little bird is a russian troll peddling conspiratorial non sense on truth social, and really is full of $hit.
If people who know things could chip in, i'd love to know if it's in fact possible to make a 100% T1000 frame. I would bet it isn't, but I'm wrong a lot.
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A little bird tells me that's impossible, but maybe that little bird is a russian troll peddling conspiratorial non sense on truth social, and really is full of $hit.
You made my day :D.
Moreover T1000 is more expansive than T800 (but how much ?) and so is the EPS molding. But this frame is "not expansive" for those technologies...
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I’m in for $15 if this could really happen
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For the terminal use of the frame, I'd vote for a dystopian thing where some child molester has to ride the bike down a very long, very steep road, straight into a solid brick wall. I want slow mo cameras at the point of impact, I want a terminal velocity over 70kmh, I want blood, guts, pink mist really, blowing up. Obviously, the bike has no brakes. I'm not sure how practical it would be to prevent the guy from trying to save himself, so probably there are guard rails with various lovely knick knacks, like razor blades, rusty barb wire, maybe some embankments with broken glass.
And then the victims and their families get to piss on the carcass.
Then you discard the bike and chuck the remains in the compost bin.
That would sell so well as pay per view content. And bits of the impact would make great tiktok videos.
The show would need a nice title, maybe something demure like "piss on the carcass"?
I should work in media.
You should write satire. This is brilliant
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I asked for the mix but they said full T1000.
they can tell you its T6900 and you wouldn't have any means to prove it. just ask them to send some videos of a load test done on that frame and be at peace with it
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Btw, important question. T-800 and T-1000 are obviously types of Terminators.
Did Toray carbon fibers start using their nomenclature before the terminators, or did some genius in japan fell in love with Skynet and came up with these names?
If i were in marketing, this is 100% the kind of thing i would try to do, would be such magnificent trolling.
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What i find the most problematic is how seraph made a 321g with uncut steerer copied fork while specialized one's are around 350-370g.
It doesn't seem safe at all for me...
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What i find the most problematic is how seraph made a 321g with uncut steerer copied fork while specialized one's are around 350-370g.
It doesn't seem safe at all for me...
Seraph knows how to use carbon as opposed to Spe ;D...
You are right, very suspicious'
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
Do it Pat, for Chinertown science!! I'll be down to donate.
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I'm veery tempted to get this frame actually... I've emailed Tantan/seraph to know if the frame takes Spe SL8 accessories like seat post and such but told me no
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I don't get it. First everyone is saying fakes are bad and now you all want one reviewed?
Sometimes I think this forum should be called toopoor4sworks.com instead! ::)
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Has it occured to you, perhaps, that people are not a monolithic entity, but rather individuals with differing opinions?
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I don't get it. First everyone is saying fakes are bad and now you all want one reviewed?
Sometimes I think this forum should be called toopoor4sworks.com instead! ::)
Apart from the ethical question, I think that people do not want fakes because they do not know the origin of the frame and the manufacturing quality contrary to Tantan who produce their own frames and who have a reputation (good to bad) in the manufacturing.
On the other hand, not sure if they produce this frame specifically...
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Has it occured to you, perhaps, that people are not a monolithic entity, but rather individuals with differing opinions?
Wow, you must be philosopher. ::)
If people want fakes, I'm all for it. Might as well go all in and get a fake SL8 from Taiwan Eisen and compare it to the real thing. None of this baby step bullshit!
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Tantan says the frame only comes in matte black. No custom paint options are available.
This tells me Tantan is probably just brokering the frames rather than manufacturing them. A little unsettling if you ask me.
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Did you ask if it was a matter of time? Maybe if you ask them for 50 USD more than normal? XD
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That's strange, when they first had the bike listed you could choose custom painting?
It really seems like all of these frames are coming from the same place, doesn't exactly fill me with confidence.
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If anyone wants this frame with s-works on for 250€ send me a message. Also full T1000, unbreakable bracket and clean headset.
In reality fucked up frame with flaws and glued in bracket. But it rides, 250€ for decoration is a fine price .. haha
I'm sorry but I don't believe this is a different frame than the counterfeits being offered.
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I might be better off buying a used SL8 frameset, lol. Any recommendations for an SL8 compatible integrated cockpit from China? Ideally I would like a bit of flare with something like 38-39 cm in the hoods and around 40 cm in the drops and compact geometry.
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If anyone wants this frame with s-works on for 250€ send me a message. Also full T1000, unbreakable bracket and clean headset.
In reality fucked up frame with flaws and glued in bracket. But it rides, 250€ for decoration is a fine price .. haha
I'm sorry but I don't believe this is a different frame than the counterfeits being offered.
Have you had some news from your seller or He is still ghosting you ?
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Have you had some news from your seller or He is still ghosting you ?
Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
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Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
Even Winow is ghosting me. Drives me mad how unprofessional some of these people are. I spent 3k with the guy and he wont reply.
I just wanted to vent :)
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Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
Did you pay by PayPal ? Even if yes, I doubt PayPal can do anything.
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Even Winow is ghosting me. Drives me mad how unprofessional some of these people are. I spent 3k with the guy and he wont reply.
I just wanted to vent :)
Winow ? So not more professional as the others sellers.
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Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
what do you mean by research?
well i do have news of at least 50 person getting caught at the factory which speshalice outsource their frame manufacturing and R&D to
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what do you mean by research?
well i do have news of at least 50 person getting caught at the factory which speshalice outsource their frame manufacturing and R&D to
whats!?
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I’d be very intrigued to see a blind test of Tarmac sl8 vs this X68 with the exact same components.. I doubt lot of people could feel the difference
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I wonder if this frame comes from the same factory as the others fake SL8 which are sold on Aliexpress or OBM, Taiwan Eisen...
Just curious of the quality.
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I wonder if this frame comes from the same factory as the others fake SL8 which are sold on Aliexpress or OBM, Taiwan Eisen...
Just curious of the quality.
Tantan told me that they are manufacturing it themselves but I still doubt
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Tantan told me that they are manufacturing it themselves but I still doubt
You are lucky. They told me that this information is confidential...
True or not ?
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I've been dealing with TanTan both as a paying customer and a YouTuber. My new GR201 gravel frameset is currently in paint according to TanTan.
One thing I've noticed on their Instagram is all the frames they seem to genuinely manufacture themselves have videos showing the frames being pre-production stress tested, painted in their lab, and then fully built. This is especially true for newly produced frames which they specifically want to market to OEM brands first versus direct to consumer. Basically the videos highlight their manufacturing capacity.
The X68 seemingly came out of nowhere. No pre-prod testing and no custom paint options available. Of course they don't want to fully promote this frame for obvious reasons.
TanTan lurks this forum as we know. From their perspective they probably have no incentive to disclose where the frames came from. For all we know, owners/investors of these factories probably own shares in other (read: competing) factories and therefore have the ability to trade products/blueprints etc.
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Here is a video where we can see the inside of the frame :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA
What do you think ?
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Here is a video where we can see the inside of the frame :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA
What do you think ?
Your link is invisible
I can't get it to show up either. Seems to be some kind of bug...
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Your link is invisible
I can't get it to show up either. Seems to be some kind of bug...
Yes, it is a bug. You can search it on YouTube :
TT-X68 inner wall shows precision cutting and high-strength carbon cloth stacking
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Yes, it is a bug. You can search it on YouTube :
TT-X68 inner wall shows precision cutting and high-strength carbon cloth stacking
It seems made extremely well..
I really hope it is the same producer of Taiwaneisen that I ordered.
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Tantan says the frame only comes in matte black. No custom paint options are available.
This tells me Tantan is probably just brokering the frames rather than manufacturing them. A little unsettling if you ask me.
When I originally saw the comments re: "Specialized offloading overstock" I first thought: "what a wacky conspiracy theory!". But now after digging into this thread, and playing a bit of "spot the difference" between photos of the original SL8 and the Seraph SL8...I'm becoming more convinced.
What a weird thing to do. They must be taking quite the loss on each frame sold this way if they really are overstock.
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What. If they had overstock issues like that they could just do a big sale, at 30% they could burn through all stock in like a week
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When I originally saw the comments re: "Specialized offloading overstock" I first thought: "what a wacky conspiracy theory!". But now after digging into this thread, and playing a bit of "spot the difference" between photos of the original SL8 and the Seraph SL8...I'm becoming more convinced.
What a weird thing to do. They must be taking quite the loss on each frame sold this way if they really are overstock.
Currently staring at my SL8 as I type this. The X68 is close but not identical.
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Currently staring at my SL8 as I type this. The X68 is close but not identical.
Can you tell us the difference please ?
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The overall shape of the seat post is ever so slightly different. The area where the seat tube meets the top tube is also marginally off.
While the bonding of the BSA bottom bracket to the X68 frame is rough compared to the SL8, it's on par with $500 frames. Specialized does a superb job of facing the bottom bracket (and caliper mounts), and you can clearly see how smooth the bare carbon is around the BB. I have a video on this. However, I can't tell in TanTan's photos if they either faced the BB then added matte black paint or simply not face it at all.
Personally I don't believe the X68 will catastrophically explode like one would expect if this was a purely counterfeit frame sold on AliExpress. That would be a bad look for a genuine supplier like TanTan. And other than TanTan using that seatpost gripping material, the frame would 99% pass the eye test for a genuine SL8.
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I just stumbled across this thread.
Is the TTX68 from Tantan or the SL8 version from Airwolf the "better" frame, geometry is the same, I'm just curious with which of these two frame to go, from which of those two sellers I can expect the better frame in general?
Or should I go with a LCR017 from Lightcarbon which has a very similar geometry and is not like a direct copy of a brand frame but more like heavily inspired by the SuperSix
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I just stumbled across this thread.
Is the TTX68 from Tantan or the SL8 version from Airwolf the "better" frame, geometry is the same, I'm just curious with which of these two frame to go, from which of those two sellers I can expect the better frame in general?
Or should I go with a LCR017 from Lightcarbon which has a very similar geometry and is not like a direct copy of a brand frame but more like heavily inspired by the SuperSix
I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
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I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
Thanks,
I like the not so much look a like look from the LCR017 it's more like a genuine bike standing on it's own rather than a copy that's why it is in my list
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I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
I wish I know if Tantan is the manufacturer of this frame, or just a broker.
Maybe Patrick can have the information ?
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I wish I know if Tantan is the manufacturer of this frame, or just a broker.
Maybe Patrick can have the information ?
Tantan is a big animal, and their reputation is not great because of that. They sell a LOT of frames. Airwolf frames are dog $hit, for simplicity. If you have to choose between the 2, 100% of the time, go w Tantan.
Tantan isn't a broker, they make frames, afaik. It might be a carbonda situation where carbonda does make frames but it's probably the mothership behind it called - the name escapes me - that actually makes them, but it doesnt make carbonda a broker.
Velobuild is a broker.
Airwolf frames are crap, in the sense that the probability that you have significant problems with your frame is so high that you really have to want to make your life difficult AND give your money to people who give zero fucks to work with them. I do love their cockpits though, which tells me, they source stuff all over the place. Maybe they make the frames and source the cockpits.
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Tantan is a big animal, and their reputation is not great because of that. They sell a LOT of frames. Airwolf frames are dog $hit, for simplicity. If you have to choose between the 2, 100% of the time, go w Tantan.
Tantan isn't a broker, they make frames, afaik. It might be a carbonda situation where carbonda does make frames but it's probably the mothership behind it called - the name escapes me - that actually makes them, but it doesnt make carbonda a broker.
Velobuild is a broker.
Airwolf frames are crap, in the sense that the probability that you have significant problems with your frame is so high that you really have to want to make your life difficult AND give your money to people who give zero fucks to work with them. I do love their cockpits though, which tells me, they source stuff all over the place. Maybe they make the frames and source the cockpits.
I know that Tantan is not a broker but I doubt that They are the manufacturer of this frame.
And yes, I don't like Airwolf either (but never test their handlebar).
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These factories are owned by various stakeholders/shareholders. And some of these folks also have a vested interest in other factories.
I imagine it's probably easy to hot swap frames and manufacturing between them.
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Also funny Seraph claims 28mm tire clearance and Tantan 32mm (which I guess is right)
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I’m excited to share that I’ve officially commissioned the TT-X68 as a "Full Build"! After thorough consideration and planning, I decided to go with Tantan.
As per the timeline provided, the full build will take approximately 25-30 working days to complete. Following that, there will be an additional 10-15 days for shipping, so I anticipate its arrival in mid-end January.
I’ll keep you all updated on the progress and, of course, will share pictures and initial impressions once it arrives. If interested.
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCykaKPu7fP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCykaKPu7fP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
Magically TanTan says they offer custom paint options now :o
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FYI, the min seatpost insertion length is 100 mm with the 380 mm. For the original SL8, it is 75 mm.
Edit : Correction of min/max
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FYI, the max seatpost length is 100 mm with the 380 mm. For the original SL8, it is 75 mm.
You mean the minimum insert into Frame?
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You mean the minimum insert into Frame?
Yes, you are right.
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I’m excited to share that I’ve officially commissioned the TT-X68 as a "Full Build"! After thorough consideration and planning, I decided to go with Tantan.
As per the timeline provided, the full build will take approximately 25-30 working days to complete. Following that, there will be an additional 10-15 days for shipping, so I anticipate its arrival in mid-end January.
I’ll keep you all updated on the progress and, of course, will share pictures and initial impressions once it arrives. If interested.
Can you share prices and specs?
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i believe, like others, it s exactly the same frame already sold by airwolf
https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/2024-new-painting-light-weight-brand-sw-carbon-road-bicycle-frame-t1100-carbon-disc-brake-sl-bike-frame-bsa-bottom-bracket-with-handlebar/ (https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/2024-new-painting-light-weight-brand-sw-carbon-road-bicycle-frame-t1100-carbon-disc-brake-sl-bike-frame-bsa-bottom-bracket-with-handlebar/)
exactly the same geometry (SL8 copy)-> difference of 3mm on the effective top tube for the 52 (531vs 528) , but is it true when you analyse the pictures?
same BB : BSA
same spacers
almost the same weight and we can say same weight if we take into account the error margin
not verifiable differences:
light differences about the paint or sticker
28c vs 32C
Di2 or Mechanical vs only electrical
headset diameter 49mm vs 52mm
and probably 30 min by car between the 2 headquarters
But i agree that most SL8 fakes get 49/49.5mm for the headset (same diameter for specialized), i have never seen a fake model with 52mm. if it is the case the probability that tantan build the frame increases
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Can you share prices and specs?
Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Price of oneSaddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
~~ total 2819 €
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Saddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
Will they build the bike for you ?
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To be honest i dont really know.
It is my first time that i buy something from china directly.
I think they will build this bike "half way" . thats at least what i can interpretate from our communications.
They will "send photos once its completed" 25-30 workdays.
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Saddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
Thanks. Overall I'd say the price is right for all the specs. Not easy to get it cheaper.
Did you consider wheeltop instead of 105 di2?
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
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how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
Hello SRAM ;D,
You are right :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDtpOkXAVCU
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how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
Shitttttt, no hole for FD Di2.... Send them a message about it. It's a no-go for me, since I already have the groupset (2x11sp Di2 Ultegra).
Other option is the Speeder 55D, but it's about 350/400 usd more expensive or the Velobuild 268 that is a tiny bit heavier and seems to know some problems....
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Hi there, I have one ordered as well. I think cables are routed the same way as on the SL8. Page 22 in the instruction manual of the SL8.
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Picture.
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Hi there, I have one ordered as well. I think cables are routed the same way as on the SL8. Page 22 in the instruction manual of the SL8.
well seen, it seems to be the case , but nobody knows if there is an hole behind the cover
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well seen, it seems to be the case , but nobody knows if there is an hole behind the cover
Here is a picture of a replica (not Seraph but it is maybe the same mold for all replicas).
We can see 3 holes.
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Guys there is a Hole . Like the original tarmac sl8
https://youtu.be/sDtpOkXAVCU?si=ZnvWnhkHpfKSY8sT&t=14
0:14
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=lpHXJ90pJZjDlfDN&t=24
0:24
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Thanks. Overall I'd say the price is right for all the specs. Not easy to get it cheaper.
Did you consider wheeltop instead of 105 di2?
yes i did even consider LTWOO, but after all MY research i dont think there right "there". Few more years needed in MY opinion.
In Germany u get Shimano Di2 105 for around 1k euros (full Groupset shifters , disc brakes, Cranks, Etc)
WHEEL TOP EDS-TX "almost" same price
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Guys there is a Hole . Like the original tarmac sl8
https://youtu.be/sDtpOkXAVCU?si=ZnvWnhkHpfKSY8sT&t=14
0:14
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=lpHXJ90pJZjDlfDN&t=24
0:24
Thanks for that :) Was afraid I had to go for the more expensive option of Speeder :) And sorry was to lazy/in panic to search for myself ::)
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Hi, I'm also considering their frame. Someone already got a frame from them? I saw that some people have already ordered, but if was delivered, or everyone is waiting ?
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I'm almost ready to order this frame, just need to decide on the design of my decals (not speci of course).
I'm trying to do a 'leight weight-ish' build with 1250gr wheels. I'm fitting a Di2 11sp ultegra group. Just need to buy a crank. I need a powermeter, 11sp compatible, 172,5/170mm crank lenght and 52/36 rings. I'd like aero/closed rings that look look (like absolute black/alu gear). What would you guys advice (not to expensive, not heavy - preverably leight weight)
Is this the best option:
Magene Power Meter PES P505 Basis 4 Bolt 110BCD 24mm
PASS QUEST 110bcd
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Is this the best option:
Magene Power Meter PES P505 Basis 4 Bolt 110BCD 24mm
PASS QUEST 110bcd
I'd also consider the Magene P505 S1103 spider only. You can mount that to any 3 bolt crankset such as the Riro carbon cranks and get additional weight savings. I have two of S1103 PM spiders on my road bikes using carbon cranksets. It'll also open you up to any 110bcd 4 and 5 bolt options.
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
That sounds like a valid argument that I've read before. What your option be for PM, crank and chainrings? Is the PES Magene crank option that heavy/too heavy?
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It is really not that heavy. I'm using the shimano chainrings for the best shifting performance. The crank + chainrings weigh around 820g. That is roughly 100g heavier than the ultegra chainset without a pm. That is a tradeoff I gladly chose.
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
3 bolt cranksets in steel and 29mm axles also exist. ;)
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That depends of whether you want to use a 29mm spindle of a frame with a 41mm bb shell or you have a larger diameter bb, so you won´t have to use tiny bearings.
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Do you guys order TT and Seraph directly from their web site or is there a cheaper alternatives ? Is TT and Seraph the same or different ?
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I'd also consider the Magene P505 S1103 spider only. You can mount that to any 3 bolt crankset such as the Riro carbon cranks and get additional weight savings. I have two of S1103 PM spiders on my road bikes using carbon cranksets. It'll also open you up to any 110bcd 4 and 5 bolt options.
Pes505 is a great crankset with power meter. Weigh is competitive.
Riro have questionable quality and s1103 is pretty heavy at almost 150g. Would not chose this combo over pes505 base
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Pes505 is a great crankset with power meter. Weigh is competitive.
Riro have questionable quality and s1103 is pretty heavy at almost 150g. Would not chose this combo over pes505 base
I prefer having options with different cranksets and bottom bracket types. Plus I can go with a lightweight carbon or a sturdy steel crankset if I choose. To each their own, but I'd rather have flexibility.
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I prefer having options with different cranksets and bottom bracket types. Plus I can go with a lightweight carbon or a sturdy steel crankset if I choose. To each their own, but I'd rather have flexibility.
Yeah, for some reason people seem to prefer 1 fixed heavy option compared to flexibility....
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We are still talking about a frame with a 41mm bottom bracket shell. 3 bolt 29mm axle is a dead end system, if you don't have a 46/47mm bb shell.
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We are still talking about a frame with a 41mm bottom bracket shell. 3 bolt 29mm axle is a dead end system, if you don't have a 46/47mm bb shell.
Bro, there are 24mm steel axle 3 bolt cranksets available on the market. As it stands, 3 bolt cranksets are perhaps the most prevalent and price competitive option in the Chinese crankset market.
This isn't a complex scenario. Either A you prefer a fixed PM+crankset option -or- B you prefer the flexibility of a versatile PM+whichever crankset. Only reason I even mentioned this option is due to people who've been bodging their PM from the PES crankset and moving it to something else. They could have just bought the stand alone unit in the first place. ;)
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Hmmm I am so tempted to buy this!
have an actual SL8 S-Works and TAN TAN are not your regular counterfeit frame operation, so with this and the Supersix they now have it does make you think.
Good to see when someone posts a frame up
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Hmmm I am so tempted to buy this!
have an actual SL8 S-Works and TAN TAN are not your regular counterfeit frame operation, so with this and the Supersix they now have it does make you think.
Good to see when someone posts a frame up
What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
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What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
There is another thread on here about it but here is the link:
https://www.seraphbikes.com/new-full-hidden-cable-disc-brake-bsa-road-bike-frame-tt-x69-with-5d-integrated-handlebar-max-tire-70032c-p6173127.html
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What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
The R5 clone in road geometry is the FM639 but what is the gravel geometry R5 clone?
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Just to verify, the SL8 clones being marketed are the Seraph/TanTan X68, Onirii One Pro and SPCycle R088? All have near identical geometry, weight and features. Any others besides the obvious fakes?
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Just to verify, the SL8 clones being marketed are the Seraph/TanTan X68, Onirii One Pro and SPCycle R088? All have near identical geometry, weight and features. Any others besides the obvious fakes?
The SPCycle R088 and Onirii One Pro are more like a SL6 (but with full integration), no aero sniffer!
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Did anyone ask wheter the frame is moulded with Latex + EPS? Or more regular PU?
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The SPCycle R088 and Onirii One Pro are more like a SL6 (but with full integration), no aero sniffer!
no, IMHO, the SP R088 is identical to the sl8 to tan tan, to airwolf, in terms of geometry and shape, but with a different head tube and fork
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The R5 clone in road geometry is the FM639 but what is the gravel geometry R5 clone?
GR029. I don't know if it's an exact geometry match but it has an identical look with much bigger tire clearance and more relaxed ergonomics.
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My frame is painted and ready for shipment. At least on the pictures on Instagram, my color combo works out pretty well imho 8)
I hope the quality meets my expectations on arrival.
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My frame is painted and ready for shipment. At least on the pictures on Instagram, my color combo works out pretty well imho 8)
I hope the quality meets my expectations on arrival.
Do you have a link to your Frame on Instagram?
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Seraph has a pretty nice portfolio of their frames on their Instagram https://www.instagram.com/tantanfactory_bike_frame/?hl=en (https://www.instagram.com/tantanfactory_bike_frame/?hl=en)
I'm impatiently waiting for a few more reviews of the X68.
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Do you have a link to your Frame on Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/DDyPjJWJElM/?hl=en (https://www.instagram.com/p/DDyPjJWJElM/?hl=en)
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Teaser :
"my" ordered bike build is finished and rdy to ship.
Public video on instagram; https://www.instagram.com/p/DD9HWU2udrT/?hl=de
i also have received privat whatsapp photos of the bikebuild from tantan . I will post them when i get permission from tantan to post it here. Feel free to post your opinions.
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Complete Weight Of the Build : 7.175 KG
Details/Price/Specs: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
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is the handelbar cable system like the one in the photo? is there a possibility that they are hidden and not visible?
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Details: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
Do you mind if I ask what the total build price was? Great looking bike!
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is the handelbar cable system like the one in the photo? is there a possibility that they are hidden and not visible?
Not with this handlebar, it's the same on the real sl8 with roval rapide cockpit.
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Not with this handlebar, it's the same on the real sl8 with roval rapide cockpit.
$2,399 usd according to the insta post.
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That’s crazy value.
Personally, Building the bike myself and sourcing components is part of the fun for me. Also, I like the piece of mind of knowing that everything is in check. But I’m pretty amazed at what you can get for your money from TanTan.
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I wonder what an Ultegra build weighs and costs. That's impressive. I wish they'd start doing some more original lightweight designs.
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That’s crazy value.
Personally, Building the bike myself and sourcing components is part of the fun for me. Also, I like the piece of mind of knowing that everything is in check. But I’m pretty amazed at what you can get for your money from TanTan.
and i can see a benefit of having tantan prebuilds.
if theres something wrong with hole, clearances or odd niggles or defective parts, at least the 1st level fa/sorted out at tantan side.
tho it takes away the fun of building your own bike from scratch
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The Ultegra DI2 Groupset was about 1240$ without BB and Disc's. The weight difference is about 375 grams, when comparing the 105 DI2 and Ultegra, but only when not upgrading any 105 part.
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Still waiting for ride reviews
Reviews from Ali Express purchases joy great.
Maybe better frames from Tan Tan.
Are Tan Tan manufacturer ing there Sl8 copies
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Well I emailed Tan Tan and asked some questions in regards to frame prices shipping times etc.
I did ask do Tan Tan manufactur the frame and I was told
‘About the manufacturer of TT-X68, confidential. Thank you.’
Hmmm so not sure about it. They sell a frame that is obviously and SL8 label it an X68 and then will not confirm if they manufacture it which is strange I think.
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Legitimate question - What purpose would leaning into such investigative questions serve as a consumer looking to purchase clearly a fake/copy/unauthorized frameset?
One could argue it's about safety, production quality, or even integrity. I'd argue to probably look elsewhere for frame if any of those metrics are critical. I'm not saying consumers should throw all caution to the wind when buying fakes/copies. But there's an unspoken understanding that even TanTan expects the customer to abide by.
I don't go asking escorts about their history and business practices if all I want is a good time. And also the ease of just leaving the money on the night stand. I kid I kid ;D
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Legitimate question - What purpose would leaning into such investigative questions serve as a consumer looking to purchase clearly a fake/copy/unauthorized frameset?
One could argue it's about safety, production quality, or even integrity. I'd argue to probably look elsewhere for frame if any of those metrics are critical. I'm not saying consumers should throw all caution to the wind when buying fakes/copies. But there's an unspoken understanding that even TanTan expects the customer to abide by.
I don't go asking escorts about their history and business practices if all I want is a good time. And also the ease of just leaving the money on the night stand. I kid I kid ;D
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Hmmmm point taken.
It would provide maybe a little more peace of
Mind perhaps to the purchase to know the origin of
the frame, as if they are a manufacturer well it silly they have made the frame.
But I have learned this is not always the case.
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Complete Weight Of the Build : 7.175 KG
Details/Price/Specs: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
Nice frame and colour Combination.
How much did you at all for the whole purchase?
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$2399USD
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Curious to see how it rides. I was just quoted just under 2k usd for a wheeltop build with the standard 50mm deep wheels. Crazy value if it rides even 80% of an actual sl8.
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I'm still on the fence on this one as waiting for some reviews.
But obviously it would be interesting to to compare it to my SL8.
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!!MY!! First initial quality impression
Bike Delivery Update
Hi everyone,
The bike arrived on Tuesday and was very well packaged. A lot was already prebuilt, and the handlebar tape is wrapped like a god—truly excellent craftsmanship!
The fork’s bearing cups were not greased but weren’t completely dry either; they were still somewhat lubricated. I decided to apply bearing grease myself. The bearing cups for the fork, both top and bottom, fit perfectly with no play at all.
The seatpost itself is perfect—the scale markings are precise, clear, and easy to read. The two saddles I ordered additionally also seem to be of very high quality. As for the bike assembly, it was very straightforward and easy to complete.
Regarding the drivetrain, well, it’s Shimano 105 Di2—it works flawlessly as expected (Japanese quality!). The bike came with a Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket installed, which is a great addition.
The wheels also seem to be of very high quality, with no visible damage and running smoothly. However, the rear wheel is slightly unbalanced. That said, this is a common issue even with high-end bikes, as seen in many YouTube reviews. You can hear it slightly from the freehub’s oscillating sound, but it’s not a major concern.
I’d like to note that all of this is just an initial quality impression. This is not a long-term test, nor has a test ride been done yet, as it’s currently snowing here in Germany—January is the coldest month of the year.
The handlebar does have a slight flex when applying force to both ends. However, I can’t properly judge this since I’ve never had a "true" high-end main-brand carbon cockpit before. It’s worth mentioning that this kind of force generates a very high leverage effect, so the flex might be normal.
The paintwork looks phenomenal, but here too, I can’t comment on its durability yet.
U Also get no Torque Charts.. I asked tantan via whatsapp and they replied immediatly
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!!MY!! First initial quality impression
Bike Delivery Update
Hi everyone,
The bike arrived on Tuesday and was very well packaged. A lot was already prebuilt, and the handlebar tape is wrapped like a god—truly excellent craftsmanship!
The fork’s bearing cups were not greased but weren’t completely dry either; they were still somewhat lubricated. I decided to apply bearing grease myself. The bearing cups for the fork, both top and bottom, fit perfectly with no play at all.
The seatpost itself is perfect—the scale markings are precise, clear, and easy to read. The two saddles I ordered additionally also seem to be of very high quality. As for the bike assembly, it was very straightforward and easy to complete.
Regarding the drivetrain, well, it’s Shimano 105 Di2—it works flawlessly as expected (Japanese quality!). The bike came with a Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket installed, which is a great addition.
The wheels also seem to be of very high quality, with no visible damage and running smoothly. However, the rear wheel is slightly unbalanced. That said, this is a common issue even with high-end bikes, as seen in many YouTube reviews. You can hear it slightly from the freehub’s oscillating sound, but it’s not a major concern.
I’d like to note that all of this is just an initial quality impression. This is not a long-term test, nor has a test ride been done yet, as it’s currently snowing here in Germany—January is the coldest month of the year.
The handlebar does have a slight flex when applying force to both ends. However, I can’t properly judge this since I’ve never had a "true" high-end main-brand carbon cockpit before. It’s worth mentioning that this kind of force generates a very high leverage effect, so the flex might be normal.
The paintwork looks phenomenal, but here too, I can’t comment on its durability yet.
U Also get no Torque Charts.. I asked tantan via whatsapp and they replied immediatly
Looks nice! Could you tell the weight of your build (with and whitout wheels)? I'd like to know if I can make it 6,99 kilo with 11sp ultegra Di2 and 1230gr wheels :)
Also, what saddles are that? Do you know the weight of those? They look nice!
And last question: Is that color chameleon white, or pearl white?
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!!MY!! First initial quality impression
Bike Delivery Update
Hi everyone,
The bike arrived on Tuesday and was very well packaged. A lot was already prebuilt, and the handlebar tape is wrapped like a god—truly excellent craftsmanship!
You bought from tantan/seraph a frame + bars + groupset that came pre-built in a box? And wheels in a different box?
Afaik, it's unheard of, please enlighten us. Shipping cost too, as air freight of these oversized boxes is charged linearly, so every kilo easily costs another 25 eur or so in extra shipping costs.
If carbon sellers can source groups at OEM prices, it could be very nice to receive pre-built bikes.
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Seraph offers gravel bikes prebuilt with wheeltop from $900 on aliexpress, crazy!
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You bought from tantan/seraph a frame + bars + groupset that came pre-built in a box? And wheels in a different box?
Afaik, it's unheard of, please enlighten us. Shipping cost too, as air freight of these oversized boxes is charged linearly, so every kilo easily costs another 25 eur or so in extra shipping costs.
If carbon sellers can source groups at OEM prices, it could be very nice to receive pre-built bikes.
BRUH where have you been? We missed you.
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Under a rock it seems! Lol
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Hi
I got my fake SL8 from Taiwanese:
frame size 56 828gr (835gr with 5 bottles bolts and front derailleur hanger) - naked carbon finish, no logo
Fork 321gr - - naked carbon finish
Seatpost (long version) 173gr
Handlebar 347gr
It will take me some weeks to recollect the pieces and test it.
The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
I will keep you posted.
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The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
Have you installed the front end before you came to this verdict? You have to first install everything and torque everything and all will compress and the spaces will get narrower.
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Hi
I got my fake SL8 from Taiwanese:
frame size 56 828gr (835gr with 5 bottles bolts and front derailleur hanger) - naked carbon finish, no logo
Fork 321gr - - naked carbon finish
Seatpost (long version) 173gr
Handlebar 347gr
It will take me some weeks to recollect the pieces and test it.
The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
I will keep you posted.
This issue of gaps in this area are well document over on Weighweenies for the actual SL8
Sone thought the gaps were excessive mainly where the transition spaces under the stem met the head tube. Good thing they transferring the same niggles onto the copies lol
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Seraph offers gravel bikes prebuilt with wheeltop from $900 on aliexpress, crazy!
Priced went up, and the shipping is alot more...
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$220 tu Texas, not too bad I think. that's get the bike delivered during sales for a cool $1000, hard to beat. it wasnt thta frame though
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Here are the gaps, on the top and below of the headtube.
Any suggestion to close a bit these spaces ?
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Can’t you file down the top side of the C ring to get it to where you want? I had to do that on my gravel bike, takes an hour work over a couple of nights for a perfect fit
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Here are the gaps, on the top and below of the headtube.
Any suggestion to close a bit these spaces ?
You got this from Taiwan, so not the same frameset from TanTan? so different hardware kit?
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Here’s the gap on my SL8 for reference.
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You bought from tantan/seraph a frame + bars + groupset that came pre-built in a box? And wheels in a different box?
Afaik, it's unheard of, please enlighten us. Shipping cost too, as air freight of these oversized boxes is charged linearly, so every kilo easily costs another 25 eur or so in extra shipping costs.
If carbon sellers can source groups at OEM prices, it could be very nice to receive pre-built bikes.
Yes!. Two Boxes, Well packaged and thick cardboard
Wheelset Box ~~4,5kg : Tires ; Innertube alrdy mounted ; discs brakes; cassette alrdy installed : it was just flat , i just had to pump it up !
Frame Box ~~ 7.5kg: Brake calipers ; inner cables (brakes and electronics) ; Bottom Bracked ; crankset ;Chain; Both derailleur ; Handebar tape; brakes Bleeded; Shifters , Saddle connected with seatpost , derailleur and crankset bolts are greased : ALL alrdy installed and really good craftmanship . shifting works (indexed),
I used tarmac sl8 manual pdf and added as it recommed by specialized Carbon paste: Seatpost and handlebar area for friction
Grease: bearings fork top and bot ; seatpost Bolt
Pricing details page 8
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Looks nice! Could you tell the weight of your build (with and whitout wheels)? I'd like to know if I can make it 6,99 kilo with 11sp ultegra Di2 and 1230gr wheels :)
Also, what saddles are that? Do you know the weight of those? They look nice!
And last question: Is that color chameleon white, or pearl white?
sry mate alrdy builded the bike up :-\
full build / sd2000 saddle / without pedals / frame size 54 : 7,175 Kg
Weight of the Saddle SD4000 no bolts 140 gr
saddle link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/3d-printing-technology-honeycomb-design-breathable-full-carbon-fiber-road-bicyle-saddle-sd2000-sd8000-mtb-bicycle-gravel-saddle-p5826463.html"
u can definitly safe weight at
Tires:
my tires Conti ultra sport 3 ("budget training tires") 700 X 28C / 2x 295 g
Innertube: conti. butyl tube
Wheelset: titanium hub / Carbon spokes / 1305g
Link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/700c-carbon-wave-wheelset-50x28mm-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-spoke-1305g-ratchet-3654t-ceramic-titanium-color-hub-road-bike-wheels-p5847395.html"
colour is "Chameleon White YS9145"
Di2 105 vs ultegra vs dura ace
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sry mate alrdy builded the bike up :-\
full build / sd2000 saddle / without pedals / frame size 54 : 7,175 Kg
Weight of the Saddle SD4000 no bolts 140 gr
saddle link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/3d-printing-technology-honeycomb-design-breathable-full-carbon-fiber-road-bicyle-saddle-sd2000-sd8000-mtb-bicycle-gravel-saddle-p5826463.html"
u can definitly safe weight at
Tires:
my tires Conti ultra sport 3 ("budget training tires") 700 X 28C / 2x 295 g
Innertube: conti. butyl tube
Wheelset: titanium hub / Carbon spokes / 1305g
Link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/700c-carbon-wave-wheelset-50x28mm-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-spoke-1305g-ratchet-3654t-ceramic-titanium-color-hub-road-bike-wheels-p5847395.html"
colour is "Chameleon White YS9145"
Di2 105 vs ultegra vs dura ace
Thanks! With GP5000 + TPU inner I can save a lot. Your wheelset is pretty leight, but still will save about 80gr there. Guess ultegra Di2 saves a bit as well.
You have size 54. How tall are you? In doubt between 54 and 52 :)
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Can’t you file down the top side of the C ring to get it to where you want? I had to do that on my gravel bike, takes an hour work over a couple of nights for a perfect fit
You mean the compression ring ?
It is made of plastic and it is the original Specialized one.
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for the upper area it is sufficient to file it evenly and it is solved, the problem is the lower part
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You got this from Taiwan, so not the same frameset from TanTan? so different hardware kit?
From a seller on Aliexpress called Taiwanese, not from Taiwan (unfortunately :D)
I deeply checked the picture from TanTan in Instagram and the frame is exactly the same I got.
Or TanTan is producing and selling to others or TanTan is buying from producers/sellers bu the frame is identical
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for the upper area it is sufficient to file it evenly and it is solved, the problem is the lower part
thanks for your suggestion.
What piece would you file ?
1. the casing of the upper bearing (thinning the carbon part into the frame)
2. the compression ring
3. the first headset spacer
Lower part should be qute easy IMHO:
I am thinking to fine the lower part of the fork tube, making it a little slimmer (0,5mm or less) so the bearing goes down and the gap should be filled.
Would you agree ?
Thanks!
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You have size 54. How tall are you? In doubt between 54 and 52 :)
180 cm
stride length : 83cm
? 30cm
for more details u have to pay ;)
stem length i ordered 100mm ( i dont even know how to measure it)
did not test drive I sat on the bike and it felt sporty
!keep in mind seatpost has MIN and MAX insert i recommend u have to have a look at original sl8 manual!
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2. the compression ring
file the black plastic part, with very fine sandpaper.
be careful not to remove a millimeter at once, but I recommend trying.
lay a sheet of sandpaper on a table and file the entire surface at the same time. the support of the headset cap must remain uniform
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180 cm
stride length : 83cm
? 30cm
for more details u have to pay ;)
stem length i ordered 100mm ( i dont even know how to measure it)
did not test drive I sat on the bike and it felt sporty
!keep in mind seatpost has MIN and MAX insert i recommend u have to have a look at original sl8 manual!
Haha, that's enough details on lenght :D
I'm 178 by the way, so 52 could still be de more agressive/pro option :)
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I’ve taken a few pictures of my bike as a reference. The gaps around the headset look pretty extreme in the photos (angle).
During installation, I didn’t have any issues, especially not with the compression ring (was flat). I tightened the headset bolt very lightly, around 1-2 Nm. The result is that there’s absolutely no play between the frame and fork – I’ve tested it by pulling both brakes and moving the bike back and forth.
The steering also feels smooth and easy, exactly as it should.
Everything "feels" as it should, as if the bike is functioning exactly how it was designed to.
Other forum Photos of Gap Issue i assume this are all original SL8
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172467&start=4740
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172467&start=4770
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I’ve taken a few pictures of my bike as a reference. The gaps around the headset look pretty extreme in the photos (angle).
During installation, I didn’t have any issues, especially not with the compression ring (was flat). I tightened the headset bolt very lightly, around 1-2 Nm. The result is that there’s absolutely no play between the frame and fork – I’ve tested it by pulling both brakes and moving the bike back and forth.
The steering also feels smooth and easy, exactly as it should.
Everything "feels" as it should, as if the bike is functioning exactly how it was designed to.
Hmmm they look ok I will post a few photo of my SL8 today tomorrow in the same area see how they compare
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thanks for your suggestion.
What piece would you file ?
1. the casing of the upper bearing (thinning the carbon part into the frame)
2. the compression ring
3. the first headset spacer
Lower part should be qute easy IMHO:
I am thinking to fine the lower part of the fork tube, making it a little slimmer (0,5mm or less) so the bearing goes down and the gap should be filled.
Would you agree ?
Thanks!
You bought this from Taiwan Eisen off Alie Express? I'd recommend starting a separate post as well so you can tell everyone your experience.
Remember just cause it looks the same doesn't mean it's the same frameset. Tantan's version has larger headset bearings
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Bearings are both 49.5x40.5x6.5 - 45
What are the bearings of TanTan X68 ?
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Bearings are both 49.5x40.5x6.5 - 45
What are the bearings of TanTan X68 ?
Yeah the bearings you listed are the same for the majority of SL8 clones out there.
The Tantan/Seraph X68 and Spcycle R088 versions have 52mm bearings top and bottom.
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Looks like some of you have received your frames. Curious as to how long it took from placing your order to it arriving at your door? I’ve been eagerly waiting nearly 2 months now.
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Ordered one today, Wheeltop with the standard 50mm carbon wheels. $2500 delivered to USA. Not expecting this to be s works level, but in a 49 hope it rides roughly lie a pro/expert level sl8. We'll see.
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Ordered one today, Wheeltop with the standard 50mm carbon wheels. $2500 delivered to USA. Not expecting this to be s works level, but in a 49 hope it rides roughly lie a pro/expert level sl8. We'll see.
Interesting that the WT build is more expensive than the 105 build. Crossing my fingers for you, it looks like a great option!
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Not expecting this to be s works level, but in a 49 hope it rides roughly lie a pro/expert level sl8.
Has this test been done with anonymized frames? I rode a friend's bike today that i built for him. It's basically my exact spec, but with a different frame. The fit and coordinates are a bit different, so i'm more comfortable on my bike because it fits me better, but i really dont think i can tell them apart while riding.
There's so much vested interest in maintaining the mystique around high end frames, i really feel that it's largely BS. Carbon frames aren't spaceships.
Edit: i meant to ask if people have ridden (blind test) a spec pro vs a spec sworks with everything the same but the frame. I'm not saying there's no diff between a clone and the real one (i hope there is).
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... Carbon frames aren't spaceships.
And definitely not submarines.
Sorry couldn't resist. No offense intended.
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Hello guys, i'm about to order this frame but im a bit confused by this thread with regards to other brand frames mentioned. Is this supposed to be better than those other frames mentioned or its the same? I saw some comments here that people think its the same but then there are some differences mentioned like the bearings and so on. I've seen quite a lot of good stuff about tantant but im not sure if this is really from them and im hesitant because of that a bit.
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Hello guys, i'm about to order this frame but im a bit confused by this thread with regards to other brand frames mentioned. Is this supposed to be better than those other frames mentioned or its the same? I saw some comments here that people think its the same but then there are some differences mentioned like the bearings and so on. I've seen quite a lot of good stuff about tantant but im not sure if this is really from them and im hesitant because of that a bit.
It's a different frame, there are lots of similarities though since they are copying the same original design. That other gentleman just posted thinking this was an SL8 fake thread
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Has this test been done with anonymized frames? I rode a friend's bike today that i built for him. It's basically my exact spec, but with a different frame. The fit and coordinates are a bit different, so i'm more comfortable on my bike because it fits me better, but i really dont think i can tell them apart while riding.
There's so much vested interest in maintaining the mystique around high end frames, i really feel that it's largely BS. Carbon frames aren't spaceships.
I'm unaware of anyone thats ridden a real sl8 back to back with a "clone", let alone blind. I don't doubt that there are layup differences between the two, whether they make a difference who knows. There is a fair amount of research that the big brands do on various layups etc., how much of that is an actual factor in real world ridefeel is another matter entirely.
As far as the pricing comments go, its somewhat opaque as mine increased by a couple hundred bucks between initial quote and final quote due to "an error" whatever that means, and i didn't ask for an item by item breakdown. My build was actually around the same price as the 105 build in this thread, but that build had lighter wheels, so i don't really know. I was a little disappointed that tantan couldn't source a Magene pm to swap out for their crank, even if I had to pay full price for the Magene. No powermeter options apparently...didn't ask about shimano's as theirs have such a terrible reputation.
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The assumption to justify part of Specialized's SL8 pricing is that the higher grade carbon they use is stronger, stiffer, while also being lighter than something like T800. And there's consideration to the carbon layout to provide a responsive yet agreeable riding experience.
I would be satisfied with this X68 if at the very least it wasn't a noodle overall to ride. I'm just not sure how TanTan would achieve a decent level of stiffness at the advertised weight and price point. The frame weight similar to the real SL8 Pro.
If TanTan can come even 70% close to the SL8 in terms of riding dynamics (stiff head tube, compliant seat stays and BB, fantastic crosswind stability) then it's probably a solid value. On paper.
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Yes, exactly. I’d actually be happier if it wasn’t overly stiff in a 49. I think one area where the dollars get spent is in different layups for different sizes. I m 60 kg and 5 5 so my concern is probably the opposite of yours and both are valid. But I wasn’t buying a 6k bike anytime soon anyway.
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Soo you wouldn't suggest getting this frame for a heavier rider, i asked tantan on instagram and they respondend that the weight limit is 130kg but i assume thats a default answer for everything :D I'm personally at 98-100kg range so could it be a `noodle` as patliean1 decsribes it?
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Soo you wouldn't suggest getting this frame for a heavier rider, i asked tantan on instagram and they respondend that the weight limit is 130kg but i assume thats a default answer for everything :D I'm personally at 98-100kg range so could it be a `noodle` as patliean1 decsribes it?
I don't think anyone here can answer that question for you since most are lighter and patliean1's comment is supposition.
If Tantan told you that then you should be fine, I don't think they would just make up a number. If you are concerned you should tell them your weight and ask if it will flex a lot or remain stiff.
My boss is 275lbs and rides a carbon (orbea) frame with no issues
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The assumption to justify part of Specialized's SL8 pricing is that the higher grade carbon they use is stronger, stiffer, while also being lighter than something like T800.
Where is the claim the sworks is stronger? afaik, it's the opposite, it's more fragile. there are plenty of photos of sworks from pros snapped in half, pinarello used to make a super light version of a frame that dealers refused to sell to clients because they snapped like matches, which is no issue if you're a pro, but not sustainable as a bike shop selling to normal riders. And the highest grades of carbon fibers are the most brittle. It's why historically the high modulus version of frames are more fragile: they push the envelope on how much fiber to use, but also, the portion of fiber that's high modulus / super fancy itself is much more fragile / brittle. There are also countless stories of people cracking their sworks frame in the trunk of the car, whereas i've never heard that with frames for mere mortals.
I understand that T700 is still the backbone of frames & wheels because without it, components would snap too easy. But it's not advertised because it sounds ghetto.
Which in turn means that the difference in materials cost between a 5000$ frame and a 300$ one is not on 100% of the fibers, but much less than that (assuming a good chunk is still T700/T800).
Caveat: i've never hold a sheet of pre preg in my life, & idk what i'm talking about.
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No, agree its not just the materials. Its also in the additional handling and complication of a more detailed layup. More pieces or different fiber and orientation. And also a premium markup. How much to attribute to each factor is highly secretive for obvious reasons.
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I definitely need to do a deep dive research on carbon fiber and educate myself better...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DBkmr8loXYn/?img_index=1
TanTan shows a size 52 matte black weighing 836g. My Tarmac L8 Pro in a size 56 weighs 827g. Now let's say a size 56 TanTan x68 comes in at 900g for comparison sake. How are they able to produce a comparable weight with less fragile (ie: stronger) carbon? And at a $600 price point? Is the difference between a $600 frame versus $3500 all in the marketing, engineering, tooling, staff, and frame size-specific layup?
ICAN's FL1 frame (Aethos lookalike) comes in at 783g unpainted in a size 54. No aero design details so less carbon needed, but obviously the Chinese brands are capable of making lightweight frames. My Winspace SLC3 weighs 829g. I'm just curious why we don't see more of these brands offering deep sub-1000g frames. Most of them seem to fall between 1050g to 1200g.
In the past I've said my theory as to why Chinese frames are heavier is because it's a built-in insurance policy by making the frames, in theory, more robust. But why would they need to do this if an 836g frame is strong enough without cutting corners?
Obviously I like what TanTan is doing by offering such a wide variety of frames across different disciplines. So I'm not trying to scare anyone away from this particular frame. I really want one myself. My curiosity lies in TanTan's ability to offer this frame at such stellar specs and price as a reputable factory. With minimal compromise.
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My SPcycle R088 in size 52cm comes in at less weight at 760g with no metal hardware and about 790g with UDH and FD hanger. Only difference between the R088 and TT-X68 is the lack of the beefier aero-sniffer head tube and they actually added an FD hole for mechanical cabling. SPcycle looks like they opted for their own off-the-shelf fork to accommodate 32c tires. With my climbing wheelset, I've gotten my R088 build down to 6.87kg (cheap 45mm depth aero wheels 7.2kg) and that's without going full weight weenie. I still have lots areas to cut weight on my build and I'm basically running cheap parts (ER9 groupset, Riro crankset, Magene PM, Xpedo pedals). Bike rides fine and I'm packing a ton of holiday winter weight. Plus my riding includes mostly urban climbing, sh**ty roads, yelling at cars, hopping on sidewalks and pot hole ridden descents.
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I
ICAN's FL1 frame (Aethos lookalike) comes in at 783g unpainted in a size 54. No aero design details so less carbon needed, but obviously the Chinese brands are capable of making lightweight frames. My Winspace SLC3 weighs 829g. I'm just curious why we don't see more of these brands offering deep sub-1000g frames. Most of them seem to fall between 1050g to 1200g.
In the past I've said my theory as to why Chinese frames are heavier is because it's a built-in insurance policy by making the frames, in theory, more robust. But why would they need to do this if an 836g frame is strong enough without cutting corners?
Manufacturing technique, largely. One of the benefits of EPS is that its precision results in both a better finish with greater compaction, but also it follows that the precision allows for the end product to have less need for a "safety factor" through overbuilding. The minor weight differences between an actual SL8 and the bikes under discussion are likely down to minor details and even the resin used, along with the fact that all weights are quoted as +/- (tantan says +/- 40g for both frame and fork, so up to 80g variance).
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Should it be a surprise that these manufacturers are able to offer these replica frames at such a low price? We do know that the industry in Xiamen is tight knit. People move from factory to factory so intellectual property can leak, people can be bribed, etc.. If they have the cad files and layup schedule of a particular frameset, I don't think it would be that difficult to offer such as you see now. All that upcharge the big brands levy is to recoup all the sunk costs into research, design and marketing. Those that offer these framesets incur hardly much of that.
I have one of these replicas (not seraph) and I couldn't believe how good they are. I'm 190lbs and have beat the sh*t out of it with zero issues. It's currently cold as heck here but as soon as it warms up, me and my buddy with a real S-works both size 52 will do a test ride. Unfortunately, parts are not identical but I wouldn't be surprised if the ride is very similar.
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I am really interested in purchasing one of these frames.
I will choose the raw finish in size 52.
Considerations:
The raw TAN TAN frame weighs 140 grams more than the original Specialized frame of the same size, and I actually like this.
What I don’t like is the fork, where the TAN TAN component is even 30 grams lighter than the Specialized one.
I would like to ask TAN TAN to confirm the weight.
As for the rest, I am not surprised at all that there is a parallel production of a frame from such a famous brand.
If they managed to acquire the molds, they probably also obtained the entire process for positioning the carbon patches—how much to use and where to place them (perhaps with lower quality materials, but still effective).
What really amazes me is the blatant way in which such an obvious copy is being advertised.
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What I don’t like is the fork, where the TAN TAN component is even 30 grams lighter than the Specialized one.
If they managed to acquire the molds, they probably also obtained the entire process for positioning the carbon patches—how much to use and where to place them (perhaps with lower quality materials, but still effective).
What really amazes me is the blatant way in which such an obvious copy is being advertised.
on the fork, the only thing that comes to mind is Spec product recalls on steerer tubes snapping. So, potentially, they now ask their factories to make walls thicker than market standard?
on layup techniques. I wouldnt buy a clone assuming the layup and / or materials are the same. However, i would assume that factories that OEM for brands (aka, ~ all of them, afaik), learn. You can call it copy, i would say learn. Philosophically, learning is a form of copying. Let's not go there. So, when i buy an open mould from a factory that makes frames for a brand (for eg, when i bought my 268 from Long Teng that makes frames for Argon 18), the LOGICAL thing for them to do is to somehow apply what they learnt in layup techniques working for brands, to the other frames they make.
I learnt math, then applied math at work. I had to do math for a client and refined my math. Then when i get home and have to do math for my own use, i dont suddenly start using beans to count, i still do math. Now replace this with layup, as i dont think you can patent layups, and even if you can, it's impossible to prove that the brand layup would have been "stolen".
And so, as times passes, good factories should be making increasingly good open mould, OEM, and clone frames.
On blatant copies, if it doesnt have a Spec logo on it, if it's not advertised as a spec, either in writing or pictures, then it's arguably not "blatant" that it's a rip off. Legally speaking, showing a logo that's not yours is a no no. But a frame shape? You'd have a lawyer up, and is the speed sniffer a patented design, or just a common sense design? What if something is different by 1mm, does it make it enough to claim it's different? And so on.
China's been playing a game of cat and mouse since the west started having stuff manufactured there. And in a way, it's "just" learning. A telling example of that is the downfall of gopro and the rise of digi drones & insta360 cameras. gopro absolutely failed at both, and both digi & insta360 are chinese brands that now lead the categories with their products, innovation and so on.
And re. bikes, it's the chinese factories that know how to do a layup. The west sends them requests for stiffness, compliance, shapes and so on, but china knows how to layup a frame, not the west, because the people doing the actual layup are chinese. With, ofc, the exception of 3 factories in Europe & the US, but there's an exception to every rule.
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That OEM factories master carbon processing—I agree.
Starting from the idea of offering a good product for $700, what should I do?
Start with elements that are already working and tested by others, minimizing the testing phase as much as possible.
Use raw materials that are not the latest generation (types of carbon and resins). And here’s my question:
Let me use random numbers to explain myself:
For example, Specialized’s SL8 project requires that the frame is composed of 280 pre-cut pieces of a specific shape, placed in a specific position, with a specific thickness, and using a specific type of carbon and resin (and all of this has to be recalculated for each frame size).
If an OEM factory uses different materials to reduce costs, the scheme (the 280 pre-cut pieces) created by the parent company would have to be revised. And this brings us back to the need for expensive tests and prototypes to achieve a good result with inferior materials.
Conclusions:
My reasoning would be:
I am an OEM manufacturer. If I want to create a GOOD product with that design aesthetic but using different materials—and I want to do as little testing and trial-and-error as possible—what do I do?
Example:
The Specialized frame in size 52 weighs 800 grams. I add 80–100 grams more material to mine and achieve the desired result.
The Specialized fork weighs 350 grams. I make mine weigh 380 grams.
Instead, seeing that the Tan Tan fork weighs 30 grams less worries me. I can’t explain it.
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Of course the OEM's learn. That doesn't mean its economically viable to follow a layup schedule. Many of those tiny pieces are there for ride quality etc and aren't necessary to basic function, and the folks building these frames know enough to simplify. Again, who knows whether you can tell in the real world. EPS molding is an example of learning.
Totally agree that a very large part of the savings on these comes from the lack of need to recover sunk development costs. It also comes for having a direct to consumer model. Imagine what Canyon could do if they didn't have to develop anything-you'd have what many of the larger asian brands are doing.
As far as shapes go, no one needs to "steal a mold" - you can scan an actual bike. Then you're not "stealing" anything but the shape, which as pointed out isn't patented, although it may be ip protected in the west in other ways.
As far as fork weights go, the 30g being fretted about is within the tolerance quoted by tantan, and likely Specialized's number is conservative. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Finally received my frame, size 54 in matte black. Can't speak for quality as this is my first brand new disc build, but everything looks the par. I did notice the common fork and headset area gap, as well as a slight gap on the top side, between the spacers and headset.
I'll be posting my build list with weights once the bike is built up, should be pretty close to 6.9kg.
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I decided to order it in the end, will try to post an update when i get the frame and when i build up the bike. Hope that the frame is gonna be fine ;D
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Totally agree that a very large part of the savings on these comes from the lack of need to recover sunk development costs.
I'd also include frames being replaced via warranty claims as part of the price point too.
In my recent video featuring a set of $3000 ENVE SES 4.5 wheels, several ENVE customers mentioned how good ENVE's warranty service is. And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
By this logic if Chinese brands selling $600 frames were to offer a similar warranty/service, frames would probably cost closer $1500-$2000. Makes sense why it's in their best interest to just produce frames as robust as possible even if with a slight weight and ride comfort penalty.
I wonder if Winspace, Tavelo, and SEKA would do the same. Considering their frames cost about the same.
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I'd also include frames being replaced via warranty claims as part of the price point too.
In my recent video featuring a set of $3000 ENVE SES 4.5 wheels, several ENVE customers mentioned how good ENVE's warranty service is. And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
By this logic if Chinese brands selling $600 frames were to offer a similar warranty/service, frames would probably cost closer $1500-$2000. Makes sense why it's in their best interest to just produce frames as robust as possible even if with a slight weight and ride comfort penalty.
I wonder if Winspace, Tavelo, and SEKA would do the same. Considering their frames cost about the same.
I spoke with a winspace authorized dealer in my area before buying my SLC3 to ask about their warranty. He said hes only ever seen a winspace frame once in his life, a t1550 and it didnt need repaired. But he did say he sells a lot of the hyper wheels in store and they are better than most brands with warrantying things when needed, but he hasn't had to warranty many of wheels at all.
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And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
I love it, this is absurd, an actuary would laugh at this :D It's a funny way to get to the ludicrous price point though!
But that excess pricing upfront is a key reason why i buy OEM. Once you know the price of things by getting closer to the source, you worry about warranty less, because you know how easy / cheap it is to replace what you break. The caveat to that being: if not planned well, you can find yourself without a bike to ride for weeks. Hence, have lots of bikes in inventory :D
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https://tool.nbchao.com/seka/list/7/
This is the color pallete available for this frameset... It also seems that SEKA is made there too.
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
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https://tool.nbchao.com/seka/list/7/
This is the color pallete available for this frameset... It also seems that SEKA is made there too.
No fancy metallic colors?
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No fancy metallic colors?
I am sure they do, you would just have to look, I am not affiliated with them. Just looking at getting a frame and they sent the link to me
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
Care to share a photo or two? ;D
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Thnx for the detailed listing. Could you share your height and maybe inner leg lenght?
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No fancy metallic colors?
Yes, they have metallics. I went with the stock pearl white but explored other options and tantan send me a number of metallics using the YS paint codes common among Chinese builders.
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I love all the waffle in this forum but has anyone got photos?
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I love all the waffle in this forum but has anyone got photos?
The couple of people that have bought it have posted photos
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Thnx for the detailed listing. Could you share your height and maybe inner leg lenght?
I'm 5'-10" to 5'-11", inner leg length i would say is normal. I've always run size 54 bikes (cervelo, giant, scott), so I'm expecting this to fit similarly. You can use BikeInsights.com to compare frame geometry's. I compared my now old Cervelo R3 to the SL8 (TTX68 is exact same geometry), and found 6mm more reach and 11mm lower stack.
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Cool build for the weight and price - just fire!
Tell about the feel, how well the bike rides, how stiff is the frame? What branded bikes can you compare it to?
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
I'm curious about the seatpost-I'd like a zero offset option, but upthread tantan told someone that an actual sl8 seatpost doesn't swap in...
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I'm 5'-10" to 5'-11", inner leg length i would say is normal. I've always run size 54 bikes (cervelo, giant, scott), so I'm expecting this to fit similarly. You can use BikeInsights.com to compare frame geometry's. I compared my now old Cervelo R3 to the SL8 (TTX68 is exact same geometry), and found 6mm more reach and 11mm lower stack.
Thanks, same length here (but in the normal metric system :P ) Also on 54 on different brands (or S in case of canyon).
I'm also eyeballing a different crank/powermeter. Not sure if everything fits on this frame. Which combi Xcadey/Lexon are you considering als an future update?
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Thanks, same length here (but in the normal metric system :P ) Also on 54 on different brands (or S in case of canyon).
I'm also eyeballing a different crank/powermeter. Not sure if everything fits on this frame. Which combi Xcadey/Lexon are you considering als an future update?
Likely 170 cranks as i have that on all my bikes. Don't see any 5 bolt 130bcd options, so probably going to go with their 4 bolt 110 bcd and their 54/40 chainrings. I'd probably go with the 24mm titanium spindle as well, for compatibility and availability of BB's across the different shell sizes.
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Cool build for the weight and price - just fire!
Tell about the feel, how well the bike rides, how stiff is the frame? What branded bikes can you compare it to?
I won't get a good feel for this frame until spring, as i'm parked on the trainer most of the time. Just spinning it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes, the ride is nice. I'll have a better feel for the ride and stiffness in a few months. I'll be comparing this frameset to a 2014 cervelo r3, winspace t1500 (in progress trainer/ crit bike build), and previous aluminum scott speedster (tractor of a bike compared to the ttx68).
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What's likely to be the better choice, this one or the one from taiwan eisen?
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What's likely to be the better choice, this one or the one from taiwan eisen?
Probably the seraph/Tantan since they are a brick and mortar company that owns their factories
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I suspect they're from the same source. I don't care for taiwaneisen's marketing-everything is a counterfeit branded and they even use a deceptive company name-so I bought from tantan.
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I suspect they're from the same source. I don't care for taiwaneisen's marketing-everything is a counterfeit branded and they even use a deceptive company name-so I bought from tantan.
Maybe, I wonder if they produce their own in house because of the bigger bearings
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Thanks folks!
I'm sold to TanTan, only have to clarify the paint options.
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Not enough photos in here >:(
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Not enough photos in here >:(
Just Google "Tarmac SL8" :D
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YES WE NEED MORE PHOTOS!!!
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Just Google "Tarmac SL8" :D
Haha! I actually laughed out ;D
Okay on that note...I will see my way out.
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Shitttttt, no hole for FD Di2.... Send them a message about it. It's a no-go for me, since I already have the groupset (2x11sp Di2 Ultegra).
Other option is the Speeder 55D, but it's about 350/400 usd more expensive or the Velobuild 268 that is a tiny bit heavier and seems to know some problems....
Hi, have you also looked at the Spcycle SP-R088 frame?
It has identical geometries to the TT-X68/SL8, but changes the shape of the head tube and fork.
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Hi, have you also looked at the Spcycle SP-R088 frame?
It has identical geometries to the TT-X68/SL8, but changes the shape of the head tube and fork.
It has the necessary holes, they sell the complete bike with DI2
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Hi, I'm sending you photos and a video of the tantan sl8
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It has the necessary holes, they sell the complete bike with DI2
Exactly as with the real SL8, the FD cable port is behind the FD hanger
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Hi, I'm sending you photos and a video of the tantan sl8
Thx for sharing your frame
Request Could you Show or Film the Inside of The Frame?
wanted to ask if your or anyone here might be able to show or film the inside of their frame and possibly share a video of it? Ideally, using a camera or phone that can capture the interior details.
Unfortunately, I missed the chance to do this with my own frame because it was already fully assembled, and I didn’t have the tools to open it up. I’m really curious to see what it looks like inside—whether it’s to check the build quality, cable routing, or just out of general interest.
If anyone could share this, I’d be really grateful! It might even be helpful for others who are wondering the same.
The only source we have is this video and but unfortunately, the details are quite minimal and don’t give a clear picture of everything I’m curious about.
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA-
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What are the torques wrench for front and rear carbon rail saddle ?
Thanks.
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What are the torques wrench for front and rear carbon rail saddle ?
Thanks.
these infos are from vivian tantan,
all Numbers in Nm
Seatpost 8-10
Bottlecage 4
Brake calipers : tantan dont have info also spcialized doesnt have on their manuual , i recommend u to go with 4 - 6
Handlebar 6-8
Fork Expander 8-10
Through Axle 12-13
Saddle both front and rear 8-10
UDH/SchaltWer 4,5
headset bolt screw : also no official info it is about - 1- 2 Nm till u have no play betewen fork and frame
beaware torque charts are little different from original sl8 page
example fork expander sl8 original is 5 NM
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Hey guys, I'm sourcing everything I need to build the bike.
I have a question regarding the rear caliper adapter for the 160mm rotor. What length bolts are needed for it?
Also, those of you who built it up already, were you missing anything from the accessories that came with the frame? I'd like to have everything on hand when the frame comes.
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I have a question regarding the rear caliper adapter for the 160mm rotor. What length bolts are needed for it?
I keep reading these questions. How much would it cost shimano to ship enough bolts in the 1st place? the ltwoo groups come with every bolt length under the sun, for eg. when you order a group from them, you get all the bolts, all the adaptor plates for pretty much any situation, and all the cables, charger and so on. Their RDs break, but at least groups are easy to install.
Given the size of the bolts, btw, you can probably find them in any DIY store, they should cost virtually nothing.
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Hi,
Almost completed my SL8 from Taian Eisen.
Size 56, 6.8Kg without chain, handlebar tape and pedals.
I have not ridden it so far.
It’s not Seraph/TanTan, do you want to open a separate topic ?
Ciao
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Hi,
Almost completed my SL8 from Taian Eisen.
Size 56, 6.8Kg without chain, handlebar tape and pedals.
I have not ridden it so far.
It’s not Seraph/TanTan, do you want to open a separate topic ?
Ciao
Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
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Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
I would bet on it that it's the same frame. I'm rating seraph/tantan and airwolf in a seperate category.
I've build alot of frames and some counterfeits I can't tell the difference.
Nothing like Elves, Winspace, Yishun, etc..
Quality wise I've seen counterfeit frames on par with the above brands and I've experienced a level below to.
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Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
At the end I decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, first time after 12y of buying chinese “no fake” frames and components (mtb and road).
I have asked carbon matte finiture because I like the “Batman” style and I am not interested in appearing as an “S-Works” owner.
Moreover in this way I avoid any issue with the Financial Guard.
Btw It’s now 10y since I am riding also branded bike like a S-Works SL3 or Scott Spark.
Experience with Taiwan Eisen: great.
Availability and comms are TOP.
I have no experience in case of issues, fingers crossed.
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For the sake of clarity and for the benefit of our discussions, let me share the reasons that lead me to buy a counterfeit - despite I was not and I am not in favor of this - are:
- weight: the frame weights only 835gr size56, seat post (long) is 173gr and fork is 312gr (uncut).
To be honest, the weight of the fork does not make me so confident (even lighter than the original) but I will try step by step, testing on gravel roads at low speed at the beginning and then on faster descends.
There are very few chinese frames with these weights at 600/700usd.
- the frame/fork shape: it is extremely similar to the original one and this grants that the great aerodynamic features - on the chart and so well advertised from Specialized - are "scientifically" proven or at least comparable to the original frame.
Chinese frames "no counterfeit" do not have this kind of studies/test behind.
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MTB…tell us about your build? Brand and parts used if you don’t mind?
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For the sake of clarity and for the benefit of our discussions, let me share the reasons that lead me to buy a counterfeit - despite I was not and I am not in favor of this - are:
- weight: the frame weights only 835gr size56, seat post (long) is 173gr and fork is 312gr (uncut).
To be honest, the weight of the fork does not make me so confident (even lighter than the original) but I will try step by step, testing on gravel roads at low speed at the beginning and then on faster descends.
There are very few chinese frames with these weights at 600/700usd.
- the frame/fork shape: it is extremely similar to the original one and this grants that the great aerodynamic features - on the chart and so well advertised from Specialized - are "scientifically" proven or at least comparable to the original frame.
Chinese frames "no counterfeit" do not have this kind of studies/test behind.
do you have photos of the inside of the frame?
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Here you go
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Up to the head tube and fork, my SPcycle R088 is exactly the same frame. Are these just coming out of the same factory or does everyone have the molds for this design?
I've been riding the crap out of my R088, with no issues. It's a good frame. I'd probably do the same and get this clone minus the fake branding.
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When I get my frame from Tantan (hopefully at the end of February), I'll post some pictures taken inside the frame with an endoscope camera.
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Seems like quite a few people have received their frames by now. Is there no one who has taken it out for a first spin to give us their impression ride quality-wise?
Im pretty keen to order one for myself – currently on the fence between a Tavelo Arow and this one. But i won't be able to decide between the two without having heard any kind of review other than for build quality.
You lovely people, dress up and take it for a spin! Pwease! :D
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Up to the head tube and fork, my SPcycle R088 is exactly the same frame. Are these just coming out of the same factory or does everyone have the molds for this design?
I've been riding the crap out of my R088, with no issues. It's a good frame. I'd probably do the same and get this clone minus the fake branding.
Are you saying that if you could go back, you would buy the clone proposed by Seraph (or another store) instead of the Spcycle R088?
If you want a clone of the SL8, wouldn't it be better to buy Seraph instead of another shop?
My opinion is that the clones don't all come from the same factory/mold....Seraph and Airwolf are the only clones to have the 52mm headset (I don't consider Spcycle since the head tube and fork have a different shape) .
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
I wouldn't care, like with clothes, I don't have to wear Gucci to feel good
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I wouldn't care, like with clothes, I don't have to wear Gucci to feel good
That's not my point... would you wear (obviously) fake Gucci to an evening with a lot of people wearing real Gucci??
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
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I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
Yeah, the headtube is just so distinct... It's so obvious...
I have nothing against this frame, and if I would live alone on an island and never do events or group rides, I would have no problem riding it...
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If you want a clone of the SL8, wouldn't it be better to buy Seraph instead of another shop?
I just went with the R088 because it had the features I wanted and was cheaper to buy at the time. Though these SL8 clones don't look that bad to me, I'd consider getting one minus any fake branding. To me these SL8 clones remind me of the Aethos clones on the market. I think the vendors have the build process figured out, especially since they're not trying to build them to the low weight specs of an S-Works SL8.
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I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
Isn't that just pretty much a 1:1 copy of the SL7?
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Here is my personal longwinded take. Anecdotally speaking of course 8)
-I stand by my viewpoint we each should spend on whatever inspires us to play bikes more often. While also understanding that our purchases neither makes us more or less virtuous than the next individual.
-Personally speaking, I have yet to find the value of blatantly counterfeit/unauthorized frames if I have to invest my own funds. Of course if one of these companies wants to work with me for a review I would probably reconsider. But there are just too many great Chiner frames on the market now.
-So I live Chicago with multiple groups rides on offer every day of the week in the warmer months. Yet 95% of my rides are solo. I started in cycling riding nothing but Chinese frames in a sea of Specialized and Treks so I don't need the validation of others. I still do most rides on Chiner bikes today. But most importantly...I think the majority of group rides are a complete waste of time. Especially if you treat cycling as a means to gain fitness rather a social activity.
-I wouldn't cast judgement on anyone riding a fake frame to a group ride. In fact, arguably one of the strongest racers in Chicago who competes against national level talent rides a counterfeit frame. Authentic wheels and cockpit however. But I assure you no one takes issue with it.
-My one true critique against fake frames, and it's completely superficial, is seeing customers put budget components and wheels on a frame "intended" for mid-to-high end Sram/Shimano/Campy. I think I once seen a fake S-Work SL7 with MECHANICAL LTwoo groupset and Elite Edge wheels. It made me wanna puke. Yeah I know I'll get flamed for saying that.
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I just went with the R088 because it had the features I wanted and was cheaper to buy at the time. Though these SL8 clones don't look that bad to me, I'd consider getting one minus any fake branding.
I also like the frame and, from what I understand, Seraph is reliable as a manufacturer/seller....but from my point of view, even without the Specialized logo, the frame is still an obvious copy of something else (even applying the Seraph logo).
To me these SL8 clones remind me of the Aethos clones on the market.
Can you explain?
I think the vendors have the build process figured out, especially since they're not trying to build them to the low weight specs of an S-Works SL8.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure I understand...I seem to understand that in several cases the weights are even lower, or am I wrong?
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Isn't that just pretty much a 1:1 copy of the SL7?
No, the SL7 has a different shaped dropper, seat tube and head tube top.
The Spcycle R088 frame resembles the SL8, but with a different head tube and fork, and for this reason it cannot be considered a 1:1 copy
(http://)
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-My one true critique against fake frames, and it's completely superficial, is seeing customers put budget components and wheels on a frame "intended" for mid-to-high end Sram/Shimano/Campy. I think I once seen a fake S-Work SL7 with MECHANICAL LTwoo groupset and Elite Edge wheels. It made me wanna puke. Yeah I know I'll get flamed for saying that.
I completely agree with you on the superficial part. Most people just do this because the frame looks good. However, under the hood, they know what they have even if the others don't know it. So how do these people feel it's up to each (no judgements as long as they don't try to cheat other people).
On the other hand, I think that cheap mechanical parts and wheels are actually more suitable than higher end stuff. If you got to do it, do it right. One want to build it cheap, then build it cheap eheheh :)
I'd not buy nor build my clients fakes simply because I think there are some other great options out there. But if I would, I'd do it for the sake of money of course, and would try actually to fit it with cheaper components.
I think most of us here could actually buy a proper SL8 or similar. We just like this "puzzle" game so much, and try to optimize here and there, have more bikes etc, that we end up sometimes losing ourselves in this :) After all, this is the spirit of this community
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Hello!
I'm new to the "directly from china"-scene (also cycling in general) so please excuse me if I ask stupid questions/don't have all the information.
I've been looking at this frame because it's been scientifically aero tested (by specialized), right? This combined with the weight is why I thought this was a good frame, I don't care about the brand and I don't really care if people judge me for riding a fake. Also watched Pat's and other's videos on the sl8 and it seems pretty good. Like some others have said in this thread, if this frame rides even just 70% of the real deal then that's more than enough for me.
-Personally speaking, I have yet to find the value of blatantly counterfeit/unauthorized frames if I have to invest my own funds. Of course if one of these companies wants to work with me for a review I would probably reconsider. But there are just too many great Chiner frames on the market now.
I'd not buy nor build my clients fakes simply because I think there are some other great options out there. But if I would, I'd do it for the sake of money of course, and would try actually to fit it with cheaper components.
I think most of us here could actually buy a proper SL8 or similar. We just like this "puzzle" game so much, and try to optimize here and there, have more bikes etc, that we end up sometimes losing ourselves in this :) After all, this is the spirit of this community
Could you guys recommend some other good frames? I'm not hell bent on this one but from what I've seen it looked like it had all the things I was looking for. I can definitely not afford the real deal.
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I also like the frame and, from what I understand, Seraph is reliable as a manufacturer/seller....but from my point of view, even without the Specialized logo, the frame is still an obvious copy of something else (even applying the Seraph logo).
I think it just comes down to buying from a reliable vendor. If Tan Tan offers customer service support, then I wouldn't have an issue. It looks like even the fakes are probably EPS molded and there are lots of accessories on AliEx for the SL8. Plus not all of us ride with the bourgeoisie cycling crowd. I don't think anyone would bat an eye towards an unlabeled SL8 copy in my area.
Can you explain?
There are so many Aethos clones floating around from Bigrock, ICAN, Onirii and reliability on those frames seem to be solid. They're not as light as a genuine S-Works Aethos (maybe the Bigrock), but most these Aethos copies seem to ride just fine.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure I understand...I seem to understand that in several cases the weights are even lower, or am I wrong?
An S-Works SL8 in size 56 is like 680g. The regular SL8 is 780g. These SL8 clones are like 800g plus at similar sizes. My R088 is 790g with RD/FD and cage bolts, but that frame doesn't have the speed sniffer head tube.
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For the sake of clarity and for the benefit of our discussions, let me share the reasons that lead me to buy a counterfeit - despite I was not and I am not in favor of this - are:
- weight: the frame weights only 835gr size56, seat post (long) is 173gr and fork is 312gr (uncut).
To be honest, the weight of the fork does not make me so confident (even lighter than the original) but I will try step by step, testing on gravel roads at low speed at the beginning and then on faster descends.
There are very few chinese frames with these weights at 600/700usd.
- the frame/fork shape: it is extremely similar to the original one and this grants that the great aerodynamic features - on the chart and so well advertised from Specialized - are "scientifically" proven or at least comparable to the original frame.
Chinese frames "no counterfeit" do not have this kind of studies/test behind.
That actually makes a lot of sense. I'm not a fan of the looks of the SL8, but if i did, if i got to trust the seller of fake, i would probably get one for the same reasons. the aero testing is a strong argument. Likewise, i wouldnt get the fake branding. I'd probably troll and put an ASS-WORKS decal or something like that, to make it very clear it's not a Spec.
So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I would ride an ASS-WORKS surrounded by S-WORKS, just to troll my friends. But i wouldn't buy a S-WORKS branded fake S-WORKS, because it's illegal, cringe, and i'd rather troll than be a poser. Also, i can afford an S-WORKS, and can confidently say i'll never buy one, out of principle. I know too well the factory prices to pay such a premium for a bike frame.
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That actually makes a lot of sense. I'm not a fan of the looks of the SL8, but if i did, if i got to trust the seller of fake, i would probably get one for the same reasons. the aero testing is a strong argument. Likewise, i wouldnt get the fake branding. I'd probably troll and put an ASS-WORKS decal or something like that, to make it very clear it's not a Spec.
I would ride an ASS-WORKS surrounded by S-WORKS, just to troll my friends. But i wouldn't buy a S-WORKS branded fake S-WORKS, because it's illegal, cringe, and i'd rather troll than be a poser. Also, i can afford an S-WORKS, and can confidently say i'll never buy one, out of principle. I know too well the factory prices to pay such a premium for a bike frame.
I agree with what you say, but I think the line between troll and poser might not be so clear....in the eyes of other people they might appear the same.
In fact, anyone who buys a copy frame (even without the S-Works or Specialized logo) could be considered a poser, especially when the shape of the frame clearly recalls the original (see Tarmac SL8, Supersix or Madone)....and probably in most cases this is the reality.
For this reason, even if I like the Seraph X68 (obviously, I like the SL8), I think I won't buy it...at least that's my opinion today.
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Here you have photos of the assembly of the Tantan SL8. I will send more photos soon.
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More
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I mean if you're buying for aero, you really shouldn't be going for a tarmac
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Can you give us the specs of your build? more importantly the total weight?
great looking bike dude!
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Ultegra di2 12v groupset, wheels with Yishun rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes and Goldix 180 hubs. Galfer Weave 140 rear 160 front discs. Bontrager Mostrose saddle, Rockbros handlebar tape, Continental Grandsport tires with Ridenow lightweight tubes, carbon bottle cages from AliExpress. I think that's it. I haven't weighed it yet. When I weigh it, I'll put it here.
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I mean if you're buying for aero, you really shouldn't be going for a tarmac
Well Tarmac is supposed to be a do-it-all. It has some aero optimizations, but it's also very lightweight, etc. The "speed sniffer" on its own probably is more of a marketing gimmick still.
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I finished building the TT-X68 already two weeks ago, but it was very busy, so here is my update.
Carbon quality seems really good. I had zero issues with sharp edges or anything similar. The areas for the break mounts were all sanded down really well and also with the BB and the headset I had zero play/issues. The paint quality is so far superb and I'm more than happy TanTan changed there mind on the color customization of this frame.
I use a full Ultegra DI2 Groupset incl. 160mm discs front/rear, except for the crankset. As most of you can tell, I'm using a Magene PES505 in 165mm. In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g. The bottle cages are still in transit, but they will add only about 25g. It's a Size 52.
For my first chinese frame experience, this was quite a good one ;)
The only thing I do not recommend is the computer mount. I think the angle of this is too steep, but I already found an alternative.
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The paint quality is so far superb and I'm more than happy TanTan changed there mind on the color customization of this frame.
Very nice green! Did you pay for the paint job / did you get a discount because you're putting their brand & model number? If not, why use their brand and model number?
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Very nice green! Did you pay for the paint job / did you get a discount because you're putting their brand & model number? If not, why use their brand and model number?
Why not put it on there? Not everyone wants to invent a fake brand to put on their bike... At least they don't charge you extra for their brand name like big brands do :D
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In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g.
Looks great! With some lighter wheels you could easily get below 6.8kg ;D
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Very nice green! Did you pay for the paint job / did you get a discount because you're putting their brand & model number? If not, why use their brand and model number?
I had to pay for the paint job 150$ in total. But I had several designs in mind, but at the end wanted just something easy on the eye (at least to my eyes). The green came out exactly as I wanted it, with beautiful metallic flics in it. It's a green tone I saw on an Aston Martin DBX here at an Aston Martin Dealership in my neighborhood. For the the brand and model-number I just had no creativity at all ;D
Looks great! With some lighter wheels you could easily get below 6.8kg ;D
Thanks, that gives me the chance to upgrade in the future ;D
I'm far from being a pro, just started 2 years ago with roadbikes. I guess I will starting saving body weight first ;D
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I finished building the TT-X68 already two weeks ago, but it was very busy, so here is my update.
Carbon quality seems really good. I had zero issues with sharp edges or anything similar. The areas for the break mounts were all sanded down really well and also with the BB and the headset I had zero play/issues. The paint quality is so far superb and I'm more than happy TanTan changed there mind on the color customization of this frame.
I use a full Ultegra DI2 Groupset incl. 160mm discs front/rear, except for the crankset. As most of you can tell, I'm using a Magene PES505 in 165mm. In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g. The bottle cages are still in transit, but they will add only about 25g. It's a Size 52.
For my first chinese frame experience, this was quite a good one ;)
The only thing I do not recommend is the computer mount. I think the angle of this is too steep, but I already found an alternative.
Very nice shade of green!
I'm not crazy about the yellow of the brand/model and logo....I would have chosen another color to match the green.
But did you choose the color yellow? Your same color is available on the Seraph website...
Are the brand/model/logo stickers above or below the clear paint?
Could you post a front view photo from which you can see the Seraph logo?
Thank you!
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The yellow is actually a "greenish" color as well. The main color is metallic, the logos are matte. Everything is clear coated. Yeah, they just liked my design that much, they just putted it on their website (without even asking). That was not cool and it seems they often do it.
I took their logo and modified it, the way I wanted it to be :D
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Looks great.
Just got an email that mine is "arranged", assume that means parts are gathered. So now we're in a race with the tariff pause.
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The yellow is actually a "greenish" color as well. The main color is metallic, the logos are matte. Everything is clear coated. Yeah, they just liked my design that much, they just putted it on their website (without even asking). That was not cool and it seems they often do it.
I took their logo and modified it, the way I wanted it to be :D
We await your first impressions on the road ;)
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We await your first impressions on the road ;)
So far so good. I did not die due to this chinese frame nor was there any kind of technical failure (yet) :D
To be honest, I can only compare it to my Votec VRC Pro and the TanTan is sooooo much more agile, direct and fast. In direct comparison with the Votec you don't need any effort to get it going. However, this was just the first impression and the weather in Germany is not yet ideal for longer rides. But I'll keep you posted :)
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So far so good. I did not die due to this chinese frame nor was there any kind of technical failure (yet) :D
To be honest, I can only compare it to my Votec VRC Pro and the TanTan is sooooo much more agile, direct and fast. In direct comparison with the Votec you don't need any effort to get it going. However, this was just the first impression and the weather in Germany is not yet ideal for longer rides. But I'll keep you posted :)
Are you living near cologne by any chance? Would love to see the x68 in person, before pulling the trigger :)
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My bet would be Recklinghausen,
A new listing for a VOTEC VRC Pro on Buycycle from there...
I see u robin :-* :-*
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Nope, Stuttgart-Area. I took the parts of my Votec and put them on the new bike. The Votec was transfered to some kind of speed gravel bike :)
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
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I took a risk and did the f/f thing on paypal. I've used wise in the past as well.
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How much is the frame total? A 5% fee for peace of mind is worth it. There are way too many things that can go wrong to chance using F/F Paypal.
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
I'd suggest first of all to try to get 2 frames at the same time. It's usually easy to get that. Either neighbours or friends or someone from the forum which lives next to u
I pay via PayPal but I use my bank conversion fee. U can use revolut or wise.
5% depends on your risk apetite
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I'd suggest first of all to try to get 2 frames at the same time. It's usually easy to get that. Either neighbours or friends or someone from the forum which lives next to u
I pay via PayPal but I use my bank conversion fee. U can use revolut or wise.
5% depends on your risk apetite
Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
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My frame ended up being 871USD with a custom paint, shipping to the EU and customs duties already in that price. I used paypall payment with that 5% "safety" fee.
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I took a risk and did the f/f thing on paypal. I've used wise in the past as well.
I prefer to have the safe way.
Why do you prefer paypal f/f instead of wise?
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No real reason, there's no buyer protection thru wise anyway, and the times I've used it it was a bit more cumbersome than pp.
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Ultegra di2 12v groupset, wheels with Yishun rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes and Goldix 180 hubs. Galfer Weave 140 rear 160 front discs. Bontrager Mostrose saddle, Rockbros handlebar tape, Continental Grandsport tires with Ridenow lightweight tubes, carbon bottle cages from AliExpress. I think that's it. I haven't weighed it yet. When I weigh it, I'll put it here.
Silly question-when you built this, were you able to use the standard Shimano 160 adaptor or was there a unique one shipped with the frame? I ask b/c the actual sl8 has unique spacing on the fork that requires a unique adaptor. Just trying to determine whether its a difference or not.
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Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
I‘m also real interested to buy this frame from TanTan - so splitting shipping costs would be a good Option. I planned to give the order at the end of february or start of march!
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Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
Chances are the frames are going to be shipped in 2 boxes so you will still have to pay shipping 2 times... And 5% paypall fees means those will also simply double if you order 2 frames.
So this might not be worth the trouble...
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Silly question-when you built this, were you able to use the standard Shimano 160 adaptor or was there a unique one shipped with the frame? I ask b/c the actual sl8 has unique spacing on the fork that requires a unique adaptor. Just trying to determine whether its a difference or not.
There is an adapter included and it has the same looks as the one on the Tarmac. I couldn't use the standard Shimano one, but maybe I was just to silly :D
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I‘m also real interested to buy this frame from TanTan - so splitting shipping costs would be a good Option. I planned to give the order at the end of february or start of march!
But you should keep in mind that if you buy 2 frames, once for yourself and once for a "friend", if there is a problem with the friend's frame, the complaint must go through the buyer...
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Chances are the frames are going to be shipped in 2 boxes so you will still have to pay shipping 2 times... And 5% paypall fees means those will also simply double if you order 2 frames.
So this might not be worth the trouble...
Not from my experience. Usually they bring up to 2 frames per box. Price is not broken in half but more than covers all those fees
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Not from my experience. Usually they bring up to 2 frames per box. Price is not broken in half but more than covers all those fees
in my experience, buying 2 frames, they use only one box (bigger), but the shipping price is adjusted to the volume of the bigger box and the greater weight ... there is still a saving in costs
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There is an adapter included and it has the same looks as the one on the Tarmac. I couldn't use the standard Shimano one, but maybe I was just to silly :D
Thanks, no that makes sense. Its not off by much. Its mostly relevant only if you want to go Campy calipers as their 160 front caliper doesn't use an adapter and won't fit. I've got wheeltop group coming and their calipers are "ok" but everyone raves about Campy feel. Solution is to use a rear caliper and the spec adapter...
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Hi Guys,
as I feel that all the frames I like can't be sent to Germany, I'm thinking of buying the SL8 clone. I'm still unsure about the size and don't know which one fits better. Is there perhaps someone here who has similar measurements? I am 173cm tall and have an inseam of 78cm.
I'm currently riding an old CAAD5 frame in 54 (see attachment). A really great frame. Unfortunately, it's too big. I feel a bit like I'm "sliding forward" on the saddle. The frame has a reach of 396, the top tube is 545, my stem is 90 and the handlebars have a reach of 70.
For the SL8 Clone I'm thinking of size 52 with a 90 / 100 stem or 49 with a longer stem. If anyone has roughly the same dimensions and gets on well with a particular setup (even with other frames), I would be happy to get some advices.
Alternatively, I'm also considering whether the XMC CS-R01 would be better due to its more relaxed geometry. However, I am physically fit enough to ride a sporty geometry.
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Specialized has a fit tool on their website that works pretty well. If you fall between sizes I'd likely size up if you want comfort, sizing down leads to a greater saddle to bar drop.
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Specialized has a fit tool on their website that works pretty well. If you fall between sizes I'd likely size up if you want comfort, sizing down leads to a greater saddle to bar drop.
I have done the calculation on the Specialized site in the past, and the size they advised would be way to big for me. So you better not just trust that advise.
You can compare the dimensions of your old frame to an SL8 on the different geometry site you can find online and go from there.
I am 172 / 82 cm and would definitely not go bigger than a 52.
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Nope, Stuttgart-Area. I took the parts of my Votec and put them on the new bike. The Votec was transfered to some kind of speed gravel bike :)
Hey, Can you please tell me the total cost to EU? Any taxes? Thanks!
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Specialized has a fit tool on their website that works pretty well. If you fall between sizes I'd likely size up if you want comfort, sizing down leads to a greater saddle to bar drop.
+1 on not trusting that tool. That was a long time ago, but because of it I kept buying bikes that were too big for me because the first bike I bought as an adult was a specialized, a good size too big.
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For the SL8 Clone I'm thinking of size 52 with a 90 / 100 stem or 49 with a longer stem. If anyone has roughly the same dimensions and gets on well with a particular setup (even with other frames), I would be happy to get some advices.
I'm the same height as you at 173cm. I would go with a 52cm frame. My TFSA SL6 clone and my R088 SL8 clone follow the same Tarmac geometry and both my frames are 52cm. You could probably go 49cm if you want a more racier/stiffer setup. My TFSA frame has a slammed stem, while my R088 setup is a bit more relaxed. I'm using both 90mm stems, but I could probably go 100-110mm if I wanted to be ultra aggressive with my fit.
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Hey, Can you please tell me the total cost to EU? Any taxes? Thanks!
Shipping to Germany: 150USD. Tax included, door to door service.
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Yeah the Specialized fitting calculator can’t be accurate. I am 183.9 with a 89,5 inseam and it wants me to go size 61. The biggest size they got lol
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Yeah the Specialized fitting calculator can’t be accurate. I am 183.9 with a 89,5 inseam and it wants me to go size 61. The biggest size they got lol
Well I’m 178cm and my SL8 is a 54cm
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in my experience, buying 2 frames, they use only one box (bigger), but the shipping price is adjusted to the volume of the bigger box and the greater weight ... there is still a saving in costs
I got an update from TanTan, they can ship 2 frames in one box. shipping costs change from 150$ to 200$. All in all a saving of 53$ per frame
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Hello, I am in NL in the Eindhoven area, I may be interested on 1 frame...
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Hello, I am in NL in the Eindhoven area, I may be interested on 1 frame...
Nijmegen here, almost ready to order :) What are you going for (which size and design)?
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Well Tan Tan have confirmed to me that they actually manufacture this frame
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Can someone please enlighten me? If I want to paint the frame myself and need the visible carbon as a basis for the paint scheme, what do I order? Is UD matte the right one? Can you see the carbon here? Or do you need "raw carbon"? Unfortunately, I don't understand the differences. Is the "UD matte" selection just a transparent primer over the carbon?
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Can't speak to tantan particularly, but generally UD matte has a matte clearcoat, raw carbon is just that.
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Hi all, wanted to share I placed an order through Tan-Tan for a size 56 frame in the raw glossy finish. Excited to see how this will look, and I will share my build as it progresses. Building it up with the new SRAM red groupset so hoping for a sub 7kg build. Cheers!
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Well Tan Tan have confirmed to me that they actually manufacture this frame
Interestingly, Seraph's page now says "made in Tantan" as well...
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
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I'm curious how these different manufacturers source the same frames if it's not coming from a single factory? Did they get the actual molds, 3D scanned a frame or built a mold from scratch using the CAD files?
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
Your saddle doesnt have a cut out? You could buy/ make a super short allen key. They make stubby allen sockets, but that also might be too big.
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Thank you!
Nothe saddle does not have a cut out.
I will check if I can find an allen key super short
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Interestingly, Seraph's page now says "made in Tantan" as well...
seraph is tantan's brand
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Of course. But they didn't acknowledge manufacturing of the frame in house until recently. A month ago they were giving people answers like "that's confidential". Not that it matters in the end, other than they do a generally decent job with their stuff.
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
Here's a video on how to do it on a real SL8. Not sure if you have the same bolts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s)
Maybe my link won't show up. Here's what to add after youtube dot com: /watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s
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How lo
Hi all, wanted to share I placed an order through Tan-Tan for a size 56 frame in the raw glossy finish. Excited to see how this will look, and I will share my build as it progresses. Building it up with the new SRAM red groupset so hoping for a sub 7kg build. Cheers!
Do you know, when the expected shipping date of your new frame is? Or how long Seraph need, to paint your frame in raw glossy?
Can‘t wait to see the result, through I had the same idea ;-)
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How lo
Do you know, when the expected shipping date of your new frame is? Or how long Seraph need, to paint your frame in raw glossy?
Can‘t wait to see the result, through I had the same idea ;-)
Hey, they quoted me 30-45 days for delivery. I’ll see if they can send me photos before shipping.
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Tantan wrote to me "frame have stock raw finish . usually 10 days arrange shipping . shipping time about 15-25 days ."
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Nijmegen here, almost ready to order :) What are you going for (which size and design)?
I am not sure if the spcycle R088 will be a better fit, I am still using a Sensah Empire and the only electrical groupsets is a bit of a turnoff. I am looking into a Bianchi sort of blue with white accents
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
5/5 still alive
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Thank you!
Nothe saddle does not have a cut out.
I will check if I can find an allen key super short
Or replace the bolt with a hex bolt and tighten it with a spanner.
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Or replace the bolt with a hex bolt and tighten it with a spanner.
That makes the most sense. I have a topper that is set up that way from factory for that reason.
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I'm about to order to Germany (Munich).
In case someone wants to pair up to split shipping fees, feel free to contact me.
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
I recommend putting this somewhere else, like I said before. This is not the same bike or frame.
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I'm about to order to Germany (Munich).
In case someone wants to pair up to split shipping fees, feel free to contact me.
I am up near Frankfurt. Just getting a frame or complete?
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I recommend putting this somewhere else, like I said before. This is not the same bike or frame.
Instead of acting as a moderator, please, buy a frame, mount components, ride and test it, post some photos and share your feedback.
The frame are the same, TanTan has just changed the headset, is it so difficult to understand ?
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Instead of acting as a moderator, please, buy a frame, mount components, ride and test it, post some photos and share your feedback.
The frame are the same, TanTan has just changed the headset, is it so difficult to understand ?
So it isn't the same then. This thread is specifically for "the same frame" from tantan/seraph.
There are other generic SL8 threads and as a bonus it won't confuse people.
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The frames might use the same mold, but they are not the same. They aren't even the same if they are in fact produced in the same factory. Finish, accessories and most importantly QC can be quite a bit different. TanTan has a reputation to lose, after all.
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I am up near Frankfurt. Just getting a frame or complete?
Me too ;D how do you say Westerwald in English?
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The frames might use the same mold, but they are not the same. They aren't even the same if they are in fact produced in the same factory. Finish, accessories and most importantly QC can be quite a bit different. TanTan has a reputation to lose, after all.
Thankyou, all of this!
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I’ve been following this thread with great interest, and as an owner of a genuine S-Works SL8, I have to admit that the price of these counterfeit frames is tempting. However, at the end of the day, it's still a counterfeit. I recently watched the GCN video on YouTube about fake products, where they spoke with the person at Specialized who handles counterfeit goods. After that, it really made buying one a hard "no" for me.
I get that bike prices are now ridiculously high, and honestly, if I could ride a motorbike, I could get a Ducati for the same price! But if we keep buying into this, the prices will just keep climbing. We've already seen Chinese brands slowly following suit, and it won't be long before we're looking at £3k Chinese frames or even £1,500 open molds.
You can try to justify it, but these counterfeit manufacturers are driven by one thing only: money. They have little to no regard for warranties (which are often just a marketing tool), poor customer service, or rider safety. If you have an accident on one of these bikes and something fails, good luck getting any kind of support. At least with real brands, there’s some accountability.
Additionally, these manufacturers often support poor working conditions, and in some cases, possibly even underage labor. These companies can be unscrupulous.
If you're after quality, you're probably better off going with reputable Chinese brands or considering open molds.
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I’ve been following this thread with great interest, and as an owner of a genuine S-Works SL8, I have to admit that the price of these counterfeit frames is tempting. However, at the end of the day, it's still a counterfeit. I recently watched the GCN video on YouTube about fake products, where they spoke with the person at Specialized who handles counterfeit goods. After that, it really made buying one a hard "no" for me.
I get that bike prices are now ridiculously high, and honestly, if I could ride a motorbike, I could get a Ducati for the same price! But if we keep buying into this, the prices will just keep climbing. We've already seen Chinese brands slowly following suit, and it won't be long before we're looking at £3k Chinese frames or even £1,500 open molds.
You can try to justify it, but these counterfeit manufacturers are driven by one thing only: money. They have little to no regard for warranties (which are often just a marketing tool), poor customer service, or rider safety. If you have an accident on one of these bikes and something fails, good luck getting any kind of support. At least with real brands, there’s some accountability.
Additionally, these manufacturers often support poor working conditions, and in some cases, possibly even underage labor. These companies can be unscrupulous.
If you're after quality, you're probably better off going with reputable Chinese brands or considering open molds.
How many no brand frames have you owned and used?
Which supplier did you buy from?
How did you choose the supplier?
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized?
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Hello everyone. First of all, the X68 that I have assembled for my friend in size 52 without pedals has weighed 7.2kg with 50 profile rims and mounted on Ultegra Di2. The saddle is a Bontrager (quite heavy). After the first rides, my friend is delighted with the behaviour of the bike. It feels rigid and fast on the flat and quite comfortable and safe on the descents. I will soon send more photos and the list of costs for the assembly in general.
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
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Pretty disappointed with my order at Seraph right now.
Ordered just before Christmas and they said, the frame would be sent before CNY. Then they said it'll take til mid of february and i am still waiting for the confirmation that the frame is sent
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Pretty disappointed with my order at Seraph right now.
Ordered just before Christmas and they said, the frame would be sent before CNY. Then they said it'll take til mid of february and i am still waiting for the confirmation that the frame is sent
Yeah, my complete build was paid for on 1/29 but nothing yet. Looks like its going to be at least 60 days from order to delivery.
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Hi there,
wanted to give a short update on the bike. Riding quality is great, as I said before it is a whole different story to a Votec VRC Pro. If it is anywhere near an S-Works I can't tell. However, I'm more than happy.
Couple of things I want to mention:
1. The rear bolt on the seat post was mounted incorrectly from factory and on the pictures of TanTan. Please mount it the way Specialized is telling you in there manual for the SL8. 3nm on the Front bolt and 6nm at the rear bolt.
2. Save your money and don't buy the computer mount from TanTan. The computer mount is cheap ABS plastic and the angle is not good. It's to steep! I got this one instead:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808076328828.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.3b825c5fNkqyhL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808076328828.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.3b825c5fNkqyhL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt)
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
By your logic, when Zara makes a perfect imitation of a Louis Vuitton without the branding, Zara would be doing counterfeiting and would finance organized crime? In a way, without going into politics, we could argue that we are financing China by buying a frame there, but then it would apply to Specialized as well?
But more positively, what would convince you that TanTan is a genuine frame builder, that people are making genuine review based of “facts”? Are you setting the bar to seeing and testing one yourself?
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I'm new to the forum and to the whole chinese cycling world, please take this into consideration.
I was going through the messages on this thread and similar ones and noticed that the safety aspect of buying those "heavily inspired" bikes (or straight up clones) isn't discussed much. Are those Seraph/TanTan clones really safe to ride?
And maybe a bit off-topic, but are there good value for money chinese brands that don't bother about copying frames (do their own or open molds), but are solid and can be trusted regarding quality and safety? I know about the ones such as Tavelo, Seka, Yoeleo, Winspace and etc, but those seem to be a bit "pricey" already
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You should make a new thread, and we will answer you there.
But tldr; TanTan is safe.
Light Carbon and Yishun are great, Velobuild has many users and no one died, Carbonda, Hongfu, ICan are other good brands. Check Youtube for more info.
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Dangerous frames should mostly be a thing of the past. First off, modern production methods make it harder to fuck up during the layup process. And unlike in the past, when factories needed to have layup schedules provided to them to get the best results, the factories have their own engineers with just as much expertise.
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
Specialized literally has workers striking saying they weren't paid/worked in horrible conditions.
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I'm new to the forum and to the whole chinese cycling world, please take this into consideration.
I was going through the messages on this thread and similar ones and noticed that the safety aspect of buying those "heavily inspired" bikes (or straight up clones) isn't discussed much. Are those Seraph/TanTan clones really safe to ride?
And maybe a bit off-topic, but are there good value for money chinese brands that don't bother about copying frames (do their own or open molds), but are solid and can be trusted regarding quality and safety? I know about the ones such as Tavelo, Seka, Yoeleo, Winspace and etc, but those seem to be a bit "pricey" already
The book "factfulness" should be read in schools. It reminds us that things move on, whether we pay attention to it or not. China used to be very poor and unskilled. Now you can't count the interviews of very switched on people who point to China no longer 1. having cheap labor 2. only knowing to copy 3. only making crap (think Apple CEO, Uber CEO, Microsoft CEO, and so on).
You can also look at the case of gopro vs DJI & Insta360. Gopro (USA) is as good as dead, and failed on multiple fronts (drones, remaining the GOAT of action cameras). DJI & Insta360 (China) are leading the way now, doing both the production and, importantly, the innovation.
From that, you will find crap made in China, but you will also find the high end. This forum is about identifying the good factories from the bad ones.
Yes, Tantan is safe, but no, they're not perfect (lots of QC problems reported here). To be fair, they are a big animal churning out a lot of frames, so statistically, maybe we should expect a high number of duds, assuming a constant dud rate across the industry.
Most factories do NOT produce copies / fakes. I ride an open mould, for eg (Long teng 268, i posted about it many times). Also, because of aero design & UCI rules, frames tend to look alike now more than a few years back though.
Long teng, Speeder, xiamen carbon speed, velobuild are names i'd recommend. I wouldn't buy from Winow for various reasons.
And to be sure, paying more is absolutely no guarantee of getting more for your money. A lot of chinese pseudo brands are selling for 1k what you can get from another one for 500, minus the paint job. Often, you will find, unsurprisingly, that the "brands" promoted on youtube are the worst value (yoeleo is one perfect example of a 500 frame sold for 1000 because of the marketing / branding / referral codes).
This forum is truly a great resource.
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First Test Rides with the Tantan TT X 68 – Clipless Pedals, Comfort & Di2 Shifting
Hey everyone,
I’ve done two test rides on my new Tantan TT X 68, each around 30 kilometers. Here are my first impressions:
First Ride:
The goal was to get comfortable with the bike, especially since it’s my first time riding with Shimano SPD-SL (blue) clipless pedals.
I rode at a relaxed pace, did a few sprints, and tested the gear shifting.
Tire pressure was around 3.5 bar, and the ride was extremely comfortable.
Shifting issue (Shimano Di2 105): I had some trouble shifting to the highest cog – maybe I pressed the wrong buttons. Solution: I reprogrammed the button layout in the app → now the shifting works perfectly!
Second Ride:
I felt much more confident with the clipless pedals.
Tracked the ride with the Adidas Running App.
Tire pressure this time was 6.5 bar, still comfortable.
I’m very cautious in corners, as I want to avoid any crashes – especially with clipless pedals, it’s something new for me.
The first 15 km didn’t feel much faster than usual.
Pace: about 2:00 min/km (~30 km/h), estimated Zone 3 (FTP).
I have to push myself, but I can maintain the pace for a long time as long as I’m well-rested.
On the way back: After 15 km, a random cyclist appeared, and I was able to draft behind them.
Speed test: We held a pace of 1:45 min/km for about 2 km, and I was able to keep up very easily – even while chewing gum!
Comparison to the ROSE Backroad GRX810 EQ Carbon:
The Tantan TT X 68 feels significantly lighter and is a bit faster, especially in sprints – likely due to the clipless pedals and the overall sportier setup.
Design: The Tantan looks way better to me and has a very modern and sleek appearance. It stands out massively – and in a positive way! I’ve already gotten several looks and compliments for it.
Shifting: The electronic Di2 shifting makes the Tantan feel smoother and faster.
ROSE Backroad: My ROSE Backroad is definitely more of an all-rounder bike – with mudguards, a durable frame, and more suited for longer, more relaxed rides. I’d say the ROSE is better for versatile touring, while the Tantan focuses on a more sporty approach.
Opinion from the Bike Shop:
I also got the opinion of a guy at a bike shop. When he looked at the Tantan TT X 68, you could see that it really put a big grin on his face. I think that says it all.
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My beef with this is less about the counterfeiting and more about the laziness. Id be much more interested in this if it WASN'T an SL8 clone. Aero front/downtube, thin horizontal top tube, round seatpost, dropped seatstays, threaded BB. A real "do it all" bike with aero, comfort and low weight. I think with optimization they could get that frame unpainted down under 800g. Im tired of the proprietary seatposts and clones. I think Tan Tan, Velobuild etc need to start leaning more into originality.
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First Test Rides with the Tantan TT X 68 – Clipless Pedals, Comfort & Di2 Shifting
I’ve done two test rides on my new Tantan TT X 68, each around 30 kilometers.
Glad you like your new steed! FYI, your saddle looks like it's tilting down, you'll probably be more comfortable if it's exactly flat.
And if you start riding a fair bit, know that if you switch to good tyres (either tubeless or latex or TPU, not butyl), your ride will be transformed further for the better, the gold standard being the conti GP5000. On whatever bike i build for me or friends, such tyres are a starting point, because i've experienced how big of a difference they make, and unless you're commuting or riding horrendous roads where you need puncture protection, money is well spent on good tyres. And put 28C at the front and 30C at the back, if not 32C ;)
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First Test Rides with the Tantan TT X 68 – Clipless Pedals, Comfort & Di2 Shifting
Hey everyone,
I’ve done two test rides on my new Tantan TT X 68, each around 30 kilometers. Here are my first impressions:
First Ride:
The goal was to get comfortable with the bike, especially since it’s my first time riding with Shimano SPD-SL (blue) clipless pedals.
I rode at a relaxed pace, did a few sprints, and tested the gear shifting.
Tire pressure was around 3.5 bar, and the ride was extremely comfortable.
Shifting issue (Shimano Di2 105): I had some trouble shifting to the highest cog – maybe I pressed the wrong buttons. Solution: I reprogrammed the button layout in the app → now the shifting works perfectly!
Second Ride:
I felt much more confident with the clipless pedals.
Tracked the ride with the Adidas Running App.
Tire pressure this time was 6.5 bar, still comfortable.
I’m very cautious in corners, as I want to avoid any crashes – especially with clipless pedals, it’s something new for me.
The first 15 km didn’t feel much faster than usual.
Pace: about 2:00 min/km (~30 km/h), estimated Zone 3 (FTP).
I have to push myself, but I can maintain the pace for a long time as long as I’m well-rested.
On the way back: After 15 km, a random cyclist appeared, and I was able to draft behind them.
Speed test: We held a pace of 1:45 min/km for about 2 km, and I was able to keep up very easily – even while chewing gum!
Comparison to the ROSE Backroad GRX810 EQ Carbon:
The Tantan TT X 68 feels significantly lighter and is a bit faster, especially in sprints – likely due to the clipless pedals and the overall sportier setup.
Design: The Tantan looks way better to me and has a very modern and sleek appearance. It stands out massively – and in a positive way! I’ve already gotten several looks and compliments for it.
Shifting: The electronic Di2 shifting makes the Tantan feel smoother and faster.
ROSE Backroad: My ROSE Backroad is definitely more of an all-rounder bike – with mudguards, a durable frame, and more suited for longer, more relaxed rides. I’d say the ROSE is better for versatile touring, while the Tantan focuses on a more sporty approach.
Opinion from the Bike Shop:
I also got the opinion of a guy at a bike shop. When he looked at the Tantan TT X 68, you could see that it really put a big grin on his face. I think that says it all.
Thanks for sharing your experience of the first rides!
Bike looks great, especially your wavy wheelset. From which brand or website do you have it?
And do you know the overall weight of your x68? Looks like size 54 isn‘t it?
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more infos are at page 8 and 11
look for my posts
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https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html (https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html)
A far better alternative than buying a bottom bracket exploding fake SL8 in my opinion. Identical geometry of course. Maybe I should get one to compare to my actual Tarmac SL8
Seraph is the "brand" counterpart to Tantan if I'm not mistaken...
EDIT: Even the geometry chart is using a photo of a frame with an SL7 Tarmac stem and spacers ;D
Yo ho ho Pat dude, really loving your SL8 Pro setup bro with the Speedy Decals looking BLANG BLANG! how are they holding on till date bro? the decals? can you tell if they are really high quality?
And did you try reaching out to Seraph to give you out a frame to review? I bet their sales would skyrocket if you'd post one huh or even direct from the guys over at TanTan cycling if they'll send you out one eh?
Would that impact your relationship will your local Specialized Dealer or they would just go like meh?
A sick video it would be if you could be able to compare it to your current SL8 Pro setup!
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40 days from payment and not shipped...
I recognize the 10 day holiday, but that was 15 days post payment.
I'd be less concerned if my request for a status update has gone 36 hrs without a response.
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40 days from payment and not shipped...
I recognize the 10 day holiday, but that was 15 days post payment.
I'd be less concerned if my request for a status update has gone 36 hrs without a response.
Same here, really disappointed at this point with the support from Seraph...
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Same here, really disappointed at this point with the support from Seraph...
Vivian is answering in real-time by whatsapp
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Yo ho ho Pat dude, really loving your SL8 Pro setup bro with the Speedy Decals looking BLANG BLANG! how are they holding on till date bro? the decals? can you tell if they are really high quality?
And did you try reaching out to Seraph to give you out a frame to review? I bet their sales would skyrocket if you'd post one huh or even direct from the guys over at TanTan cycling if they'll send you out one eh?
Would that impact your relationship will your local Specialized Dealer or they would just go like meh?
A sick video it would be if you could be able to compare it to your current SL8 Pro setup!
Yo yo! The Speedy Decals are holding up swell. Whenever I wash or wipe down my SL8 I make sure not to really scrub near the decals.
I haven't tried to contact TanTan/Seraph for an X68 since I just very recently finished building their GR201 gravel frame. Which is awesome.
My opinion on the X68 in general tends to change by the week. It would make for a popular, albeit polarizing, video. However I just know deep down that I wouldn't give it the time and effort it deserves. Maybe later in the spring.
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Yo yo! The Speedy Decals are holding up swell. Whenever I wash or wipe down my SL8 I make sure not to really scrub near the decals.
I haven't tried to contact TanTan/Seraph for an X68 since I just very recently finished building their GR201 gravel frame. Which is awesome.
My opinion on the X68 in general tends to change by the week. It would make for a popular, albeit polarizing, video. However I just know deep down that I wouldn't give it the time and effort it deserves. Maybe later in the spring.
I'm torn on this frame, especially after my rant about counterfeits earlier. As an owner of a genuine SL8, it's hard to justify buying this, even though the price and reviews have been very positive. A detailed review and comparison against the real deal by your good self! would definitely help me decide, as I'm considering a budget build to replace my Winspace SL2.0 frame and Hyper wheels, which aren't getting any love at the moment. I already have Ultegra Di2, and the new XM Carbon Speed T1100 wheels look amazing—I even emailed Peter about them. Now, I just need a frame, and I'm stuck choosing between an open-mold/copy, a branded Chinese frame, or waiting for Quick Pro Area to release the ER:ONE next month. There is just so much choice t the moment its makes my head spin!
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I will place my order this weekend.
Bike will be comopleted with Ultegra Di2, SRAM Red E1 crank, Sigeyi Axo powermeter, EXS handlerbar and a 50mm carbon spoke wheelset from Peter.
Expect the wheight around 6,8kg.
Hopefully the frame will be just as stiff as my SWORKS SL6
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I will place my order this weekend.
Bike will be comopleted with Ultegra Di2, SRAM Red E1 crank, Sigeyi Axo powermeter, EXS handlerbar and a 50mm carbon spoke wheelset from Peter.
Expect the wheight around 6,8kg.
Hopefully the frame will be just as stiff as my SWORKS SL6
Nice be interesting to see you review. I have a Cybrei crank on my SL8 but have asked Peter a bit more on there carbon crank as well
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I got the SRAM RED E1 crank für 270$ new coming 310g, no-brainer.
The complete unit with powermeter and Shimano chainrings comes at 560g.
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Any opinions from those who have integrated handlebars like those on the X68 that have a fixed angle? Is it not too limiting? Obviously it comes down to how the rest of the bike fits as well and so I'm guessing opinions are mixed.
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Any opinions from those who have integrated handlebars like those on the X68 that have a fixed angle? Is it not too limiting? Obviously it comes down to how the rest of the bike fits as well and so I'm guessing opinions are mixed.
Also curious about this or if anyone knows some integrated bar/stem setups without the huge drops like -10 degrees etc. Im running black Inc ones with -6 degree which is a big change going from a +6.
But yes thats the limiting factor of the integrated bar/stem, you're set in that ecosystem with no tweaking.
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
Same!
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
Same price. I think they are out of stock now. I ordered the frame a week ago
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Vivian is answering in real-time by whatsapp
I'm still waiting for any replies... At this point I'm just disapointed that not a single thing has been shipped after 2 months...
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I have been in contact with them a couple of times, paid my frame on the 16th of January and when i asked them abotu ETA they said that the frame should be finished around 25th of February.
I was chatting with them couple of times since then and i got a message yesterday that the frame should be done next week and they will ship it. I wasn't expecting much of a support or communication from them but i think being a week or two late on this is okayish in the end. I'll update the post when they ship it out.
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Same price. I think they are out of stock now. I ordered the frame a week ago
Vivian at Tan tan has quoted shipping in 15-20 days with shipping to UK 10-18 days
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
How did you end up paying? Do they charge you before making the frame (I'm assuming it's before) or after it's complete?
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How did you end up paying? Do they charge you before making the frame (I'm assuming it's before) or after it's complete?
You pay up front.
They may accept bank transfer which would be better.
Or maybe a credit card payment link.
But you get some sort of protection with paypal
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I have been in contact with them a couple of times, paid my frame on the 16th of January and when i asked them abotu ETA they said that the frame should be finished around 25th of February.
I was chatting with them couple of times since then and i got a message yesterday that the frame should be done next week and they will ship it. I wasn't expecting much of a support or communication from them but i think being a week or two late on this is okayish in the end. I'll update the post when they ship it out.
Paid for mine 1/13 and finally got a reply yesterday that "its still in paint". Given that its stock white, I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. Either they have had more demand than expected or supply issues.
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Paid for mine 1/13 and finally got a reply yesterday that "its still in paint". Given that its stock white, I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. Either they have had more demand than expected or supply issues.
You think they keep stock?!
They make to order and they still have a backlog still due to Chinese New Year which they are still catching up on.
I would say 8-10 weeks for a frame at the moment
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I'm torn on this frame, especially after my rant about counterfeits earlier. As an owner of a genuine SL8, it's hard to justify buying this, even though the price and reviews have been very positive. A detailed review and comparison against the real deal by your good self! would definitely help me decide, as I'm considering a budget build to replace my Winspace SL2.0 frame and Hyper wheels, which aren't getting any love at the moment. I already have Ultegra Di2, and the new XM Carbon Speed T1100 wheels look amazing—I even emailed Peter about them. Now, I just need a frame, and I'm stuck choosing between an open-mold/copy, a branded Chinese frame, or waiting for Quick Pro Area to release the ER:ONE next month. There is just so much choice t the moment its makes my head spin!
If I had to pick a "do it all" Chinese frameset right now it would be the SLC 3.0. Seems like it takes everything I like about the SL8, then drops the weight and runs a conventional round seatpost. I just finished a build but I wish I had gone with the SLC. I think it came out after I ordered my frame. Worth a look
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If I had to pick a "do it all" Chinese frameset right now it would be the SLC 3.0. Seems like it takes everything I like about the SL8, then drops the weight and runs a conventional round seatpost. I just finished a build but I wish I had gone with the SLC. I think it came out after I ordered my frame. Worth a look
Hmmm, I’ve considered the SLC3 as a potential replacement for the SLC2 frame I currently have. I can actually get Winspace products at trade price and i I’ve bought their wheels, but I tend to buy less from them now. Other companies like XM Carbon Speed offer wheels that are cheaper and better specced, and honestly, I’m not keen on the aesthetics of Winspace frames.
What frame was your build?
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You think they keep stock?!
They make to order and they still have a backlog still due to Chinese New Year which they are still catching up on.
I would say 8-10 weeks for a frame at the moment
Vivian at Tan tan has quoted shipping in 15-20 days with shipping to UK 10-18 days
Hmm. So your suggesting that they can ship a matt or gloss frame in 2-3 weeks but 8-10 for one that's painted in the stock white?
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Hmmm, I’ve considered the SLC3 as a potential replacement for the SLC2 frame I currently have. I can actually get Winspace products at trade price and i I’ve bought their wheels, but I tend to buy less from them now. Other companies like XM Carbon Speed offer wheels that are cheaper and better specced, and honestly, I’m not keen on the aesthetics of Winspace frames.
What frame was your build?
I built a TanTan FM639; basically a Cervelo R5 clone. I like it, but the SLC 3.0 is just better aero and weight wise. If it had a threaded BB it would be perfect.
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Hmm. So your suggesting that they can ship a matt or gloss frame in 2-3 weeks but 8-10 for one that's painted in the stock white?
I don’t think they keep stock at all and manufacturer on order and give out general time frames for delivery.
I think wait times are a lottery
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I don’t think they keep stock at all and manufacturer on order and give out general time frames for delivery.
I think wait times are a lottery
Hmm not sure.
I’ve been trying to order a TT-X65 in size 56, they keep saying that it’s a new frame and not in stock in that size yet. However, they are suggesting me to buy a x68 instead as these are in stock in all sizes.
Or, they are trying to get me to buy a more expensive/profitable frame?
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Hmm not sure.
I’ve been trying to order a TT-X65 in size 56, they keep saying that it’s a new frame and not in stock in that size yet. However, they are suggesting me to buy a x68 instead as these are in stock in all sizes.
Or, they are trying to get me to buy a more expensive/profitable frame?
I asked this week about size 54 and they told me they were out of stock.
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I asked this week about size 54 and they told me they were out of stock.
Interesting, I’ll ask for the availability on 54 next week, see if I get the same response.
There’s always a risk of something getting lost in translation. :)
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From what I have been able to find out, the bottleneck is in the painting area. They are very behind there.
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Yeah. Had I known I would have done something different...I went with the pearl white as a) its nice b) its neutral and c) all their promos featured it so I assumed it was a "stock" color.
My concern is that I'm on borrowed time vis a vis the tariff situation, and if it changes it'll be a $700 or so price increase.
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My bike is out of paint as of today, so figure around a little over a month allowing for the holiday break.
From the video the paint looks great and bb and disc mounts seem nicely faced.
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More fotos!!! It’s a very nice Bike
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I am extremely tempted to buy one as a winter and race bike for when its dangerous. Is the di2 junction box holder in the seatpost? I would slap a ultegra di2 11sp group on it.
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Any new reviews please ?
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
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Question, does the lowest spacer/headsetcap/whateverthename is, sit flush after finishing the build? The gap/size doesnt really seem to fit the headtube/toptube-intersection.
By the way, loving the purple matte frame! Haven't seen that one before.
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
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Question, does the lowest spacer/headsetcap/whateverthename is, sit flush after finishing the build? The gap/size doesnt really seem to fit the headtube/toptube-intersection.
By the way, loving the purple matte frame! Haven't seen that one before.
So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
Thank you, guys! I saw a similar color on one of Tantan's frames on Instagram and really liked it. It looks even better on the x68, and I'm quite looking forward to seeing it in the sun!
As for the gap, I'll see how it looks when I get it and finish the build, but it won't be that much better than what is in the picture now from all the other builds I've seen people post here. SL8 has that gap smaller, for sure.
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Looks great!
Is it purple matte? or which colour do they call it?
And yes, gap is less when compressed.
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Is that a 58cm?
First one i saw on this forum
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Yes the frame is 58, and the color is indeed purple matte finish. This is what i had in my PDF order confirmation from Tantan: YS9448 i also specified to them that i want this color in matte. I saw it on one other frame where it was named something purple chameleon on one of the instagram accounts of Tantan.
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Did the seller give you any weight for your size?
I am very interested in a x68 in size 58 myself. The proportions look good.
Curious to see your insights on stiffness: all tubes being longer it should be less stiff. yet a tantan x38 in 58 is very stiff i heard
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Did the seller give you any weight for your size?
I am very interested in a x68 in size 58 myself. The proportions look good.
Curious to see your insights on stiffness: all tubes being longer it should be less stiff. yet a tantan x38 in 58 is very stiff i heard
I didn't get any weight info from the seller, but I'll definitely weigh it and post it here when I get the frame. I also plan to take some pics/videos with the endoscope camera from inside the frame and will also put it here :)
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So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
I was about to order my X68 in raw carbon, but not seeing any other frames like that I opted for a boring black.
I'm looking forward to seeing some finish like this.
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Yes the frame is 58, and the color is indeed purple matte finish. This is what i had in my PDF order confirmation from Tantan: YS9448 and i saw it on one other frame where it was named something purple chameleon on one of the instagram accounts of Tantan.
Thanks for the color code, it looks amazing.
How tall are you? Did you check the size with the specialized chart?
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Thanks for the color code, it looks amazing.
How tall are you? Did you check the size with the specialized chart?
I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
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The Specialized fit tool is pretty good, but it doesn't really account for variations in drop/comfort. If you're flexible, you can go one size smaller, if not so, one size larger as the bar to saddle drop changes - more drop in the smaller size. I was between a 49 and 52, went with the 49 but it'll be on the edge of what I can ride at 65.
Don't have the bike yet; latest drama is that I ordered with a 11-34. They built with a 32. I said ok, just throw in a chain as I have a 34 but will likely need to resize. They respond, well, Wheeltop max is 32. Sent them a screenshot of the Wheeltop specs (max 36) but told them don't bother, I'll eat cassette and chain, just ship already.
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
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I am 181cm tall and I will buy size 58, as suggested by specialized calculator, because I have internal leg height of 93cm. I am disproportionate in physique.
I will order it soon
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
from what I've inspected, it does seem they are the same
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Can me also someone confirm that the computer mount is 100% the same as used by roval rapide cockpit so that it is compatible with the Magcad mount?
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Ordered my frame in 56, wonderling how this sheme will look like
(https://i.ibb.co/vx49PDCc/2025-03-13-11-31-54-x68-PT-7722-C-PT-871-C-1-pdf-Adobe-Acrobat-Pro-32-bit.png)
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
Yes. I swapped the stock hanger with an aliexpress direct mount hanger. The fit was perfect and I've had no issues.
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While we're on the parts swap subject, has anyone tried a seatpost swap to hylix or specialized? Thinking about zero offset, no idea if the tantan is dimensionally identical.
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Anyone got an idea how to get the expander out again ?
Mounted the expander, but I want to take it out because of adjusting the fork shaft length and yeah seems like the fucking expander won't come out.
I opened the 6mm screw and then the counter part fell into the frame... So I can't even screw the 6mm in again
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I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
thank you very much for the fedeback. I am thinking of doing a bike fit, seems to be the right time to do it before ordering the frame
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Yes. I swapped the stock hanger with an aliexpress direct mount hanger. The fit was perfect and I've had no issues.
Funny that when asking them directly they said no but apparently it is the same. Most likely they want to distance theirselfs as much as possible from the real SL8 for obvious reasons.
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Anyone got an idea how to get the expander out again ?
Mounted the expander, but I want to take it out because of adjusting the fork shaft length and yeah seems like the fucking expander won't come out.
I opened the 6mm screw and then the counter part fell into the frame... So I can't even screw the 6mm in again
Have you tried this ?
https://youtu.be/8wL_tqCrFSA
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Have you tried this ?
https://youtu.be/8wL_tqCrFSA
Don't see the video but yeah I got it out.
Will use another expander expander in the future
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What do you guys think about the full bike offer from tantan? At 2400 usd seems like an ok deal. Only downside I see is that the chainring is 50-34 only and 170mm crank.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1174
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What do you guys think about the full bike offer from tantan? At 2400 usd seems like an ok deal. Only downside I see is that the chainring is 50-34 only and 170mm crank.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1174
Depends how you feel about:
- the choice of parts (e.g. I'd want wider wheels, better tyres, shorter cranks that support a power meter, and bar size isn't stated - all of which make this an instant no)
- shipping costs (generally much higher for a full bike)
- additional duty costs (and the consequences are much higher if it's picked up by customs)
For those reasons I'm pretty unlikely to ever buy a full bike build direct from China - much easier for me to do it piece-by-piece, first to make sure I get all the parts I want first time around, but also to minimise shipping/duty costs (though this is very country dependent).
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I just sent them an email to see how customizable the full bike kit is. Mainly to see if they can build it with v3.0 er9 and what kind of crank that would include.
I am a bit concerned with the wheelset included. Quality I'm general and maybe too stiff with carbon spokes... Anyone here with experience with that wheelset?
I also asked if it could be a different color.
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Someone earlier in the thread ordered with those wheels.
Don't know why you'd want wider wheels, they're 21 internal, and 28, so perfect for 30-32. Reasonably light too at under 1400g.
The crank? Yeah, I don't like shimano cranks much due to the powermeter issue, but its likely the same to buy the group with or without, so sell it and do something else. I did a wheeltop build that comes with whatever cheap cranks they generally used knowing it was going to get binned.
You can choose bar width.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
That's mostly why I did it that way. Also b/c wheeltop has a rep of being difficult to set up, figured it come to me most or all of the way there.
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That's mostly why I did it that way. Also b/c wheeltop has a rep of being difficult to set up, figured it come to me most or all of the way there.
So you bought a complete bike, but with wheeltop & different wheels? If that's the case, Can you share what wheels you got from them & final price ?
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
Which bike did you order? I think you mean a x68, not sure.
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Yes, x68
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Yes, x68
I talked to them about doing like you did with what FM301 frame. Have not pulled trigger yet.
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
Did you buy a custom painted bike or stock black?
I also ordered now btw. All stock 54 frame, lets see. Should be lighter than my current Tarmac SL7 Pro.
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Painted, the pearl white shown in the video and photos.
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then I was also wondering if the bike accomodates really 140mm front rotors as stated on their website? The real SL8 supports only front 160mm, I would like to run 140mm though.
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I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
hi, did you received your bike?fits you well? I'm struggling with size choice... 56 or 58? my current bike settings and my anthropometry below.
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I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
Does this fit inside the X68? In Patrick Lino 's real SL8 it fitted with 32mm GP5k. When i asked this exact question tantan's responds was "32mm clearance".
IDK if this is tantan's way to deny the resamblance to the SL8, or if the clearance is really different.
I was looking at this same exact combo so any feedback is welcome!
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hi, did you received your bike?fits you well? I'm struggling with size choice... 56 or 58? my current bike settings and my anthropometry below.
Not yet. It should arrive in 12 days or so. It was just shipped out a couple of days ago. As for the size, it's hard to say. I discussed sizing when doing the bike fit and went with the fitter's recommendation. From looking at your fit and mine, it's somewhat similar, so maybe the 58 size would also fit you, but then again, im not really that knowledgeable in this to recommend you anything :D
Reach to handlebar: 576
saddle setback: 90mm
drop from saddle to bars: 88mm
Also for the sl8 size 58 geometry i got recomended 90mm stem and 420mm width for the bars
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Does this fit inside the X68? In Patrick Lino 's real SL8 it fitted with 32mm GP5k. When i asked this exact question tantan's responds was "32mm clearance".
IDK if this is tantan's way to deny the resamblance to the SL8, or if the clearance is really different.
I was looking at this same exact combo so any feedback is welcome!
IDK, as I don't have the bike yet. But Patrick's video praising the wheels he has the same profile rim on an SL8. He's running 32's. I'll start with 30's. Check out his video at the 5 minute mark and following.
Patrick could tell you how it works. The bike has identical dimensions more or less. Specialized likewise says "32".
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then I was also wondering if the bike accomodates really 140mm front rotors as stated on their website? The real SL8 supports only front 160mm, I would like to run 140mm though.
Meanwhile i'm looking for 180 adaptors. How much do you weigh?
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Meanwhile i'm looking for 180 adaptors. How much do you weigh?
Around 65 kg, threshold at 330w :D I race a lot and certainly dont get dropped due to the 140 mm rotors I already use on my SL7. I would like to keep them for easy wheel swap.
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So not to whine like a beyoch, but I'm now 65 days from payment. Was told a week ago that my bike would ship. The latest is "The goods have been shipped, but we need to wait a few days for the new tracking number." Is this accurate? Does Tantan ship in such a way that there's no tracking for a few days?
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So not to whine like a beyoch, but I'm now 65 days from payment. Was told a week ago that my bike would ship. The latest is "The goods have been shipped, but we need to wait a few days for the new tracking number." Is this accurate? Does Tantan ship in such a way that there's no tracking for a few days?
Yeah it was the same for me. No update on tracking until 2 days before arrival.
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Hello and thanks to everybody sharing their experiences so far. I have two questions regarding the seatpost: Is there an offset? And what is the minimum insertion for the longer seatpost (380mm)? I tend to order a smaller frame, but that would require the offset and a long seatpost.
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
Would be very interesting if you could say how easily the matte paint scratches
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I have observed that in size 56 the upper tube in the junction with the head tube is different from the original SL8. but it is exactly like the Eissen copy.
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photos photo photos fellas! must be some of you with some deliveries!
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attached the mia in size 56.
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attached the mia in size 56.
Thanks Davidhe23
Where did you buy from? im assuming TanTan?
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Thanks Davidhe23
Where did you buy from? I'm assuming TanTan?
Yes, it's the version of Seraph, but I'm almost certain they use the framework of other manufacturers. They all bring the defect that doesn't grow the top tube into higher sizes, and my size 56 looks very similar to the original in size 58.
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So, I finally got my frame in today.
Here are some pictures of me unpacking it and checking it out with an endoscope camera.
These are not the best quality pictures, but you can see that everything inside the frame is really neat, with no sharp edges or anything else.
I will be building the bike with my friend this Saturday, and I will post some more pictures with the weights of the stuff and so on.
My frame is size 58.
All weights of the individual parts are:
Frame - 971,8g
Fork - 360,03g
Seatpost - 163,5g
Cockpit - 357,4g
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ECYjE7t443kKLPjBBGKWUSLbhGIo3fcP?usp=sharing
All of the pictures are in this google drive folder.. I couldn’t upload any phots here and if i did it broke the whole topic page returning 500 error :/
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So, I finally got my frame in today.
Here are some pictures of me unpacking it and checking it out with an endoscope camera.
These are not the best quality pictures, but you can see that everything inside the frame is really neat, with no sharp edges or anything else.
I will be building the bike with my friend this Saturday, and I will post some more pictures with the weights of the stuff and so on.
My frame is size 58.
All weights of the individual parts are:
Frame - 971,8g
Fork - 360,03g
Seatpost - 163,5g
Cockpit - 357,4g
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ECYjE7t443kKLPjBBGKWUSLbhGIo3fcP?usp=sharing
All of the pictures are in this google drive folder.. I couldn’t upload any phots here and if i did it broke the whole topic page returning 500 error :/
Nice colour dovh.
Same they dont face the BB or the brake calliper mounts but for the price I suppose you can do that yourself!
Anyone else review or photos?
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Anyone else having problems with the battery holder?
It prevents the seat post from going in all the way and it gets stuck when taking out the seat post which says to me that the clamping from the holder to the seat post is absolutely shit.
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Anyone else having problems with the battery holder?
It prevents the seat post from going in all the way and it gets stuck when taking out the seat post which says to me that the clamping from the holder to the seat post is absolutely shit.
You can have a look at this type B battery holder :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdKITI
It is expensive for what it is but it works perfectly on a SL8 seatpost. However, I am not sure how it will fit for the x68 seatpost.
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Received a box today via dhl with the derailleurs and chain. Was told in advance this was due to the batteries. No idea if they paired and tuned them prior to shipment, we'll see.
But the bike...is stuck for 3 days in Shanghai, "export customs retention/ to be verified". I'm hoping this isn't going to turn into another week delay. Day 66 and counting.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
You seriously need to do a review on this against your genuine SL8!
Be great to see s side by side comparison including internals etc
Please be guinea pig lol
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Here is my final take on all of this:
1. One needs to ask themself why they actually want this frame design instead of buying a genuine SL8. Like really...why do customers want an SL8 budget alternative? Pricepoint? The design itself? Inherent brand cache? Aero testing? Geometry? Only the customer can answer this. Really no wrong answers here...
2. However, if quality control is a concern, get the TanTan version and call it a day. Serge_K has already provided a comprehensive list of legitimate reasons to avoid buying fakes.
3. Or buy a Quick-Pro AR-One or Tavelo Arow if you truly have the budget for a performance bike. Or go the Speeder route.
4. My VeloBuild 168 (SL7 clone) and TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone), respectively, were pretty uninspiring to ride. The VB-168 was a noodle when pushing the watts. The X38 on the other hand was stiff in all the wrong areas causing a constant disruptive riding experience.
5. Past trends dictate future trends so I don't expect a $600 TanTan frame to magically perform like the real deal. Especially when the other Western brands I've reviewed don't really come close to riding the characteristics of the SL8 either.
6. The Tarmac SL8 is a delicate balance of ultra comfort, super lightweight, and still being stiff enough. Personally I prefer frames with more perceived stiffness and road feedback/communication. Even if Specialized added 300g to the frame weight to achieve this. And I don't love the look of the SL8. But it is the benchmark bike I get asked about the most. It's a fantastic climber and handles crosswinds better than any bike I've tested.
Specialized made compromises by opting for a tiny bottom bracket section on the SL8 in the name of comfort. Like the Aethos. So just imagine how those same compromises might be realized on a $600 frame. TanTan or fake.
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I agree with most of what Patrick says above. I'll just toss out there that I think the margins are narrowing. EPS, the sharing of knowledge etc. have made things closer. The VAM clones by all reports are pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing. I suspect the X68 is closer to an SL bike than the x38 is to a Foil. Time will tell.
Its not impossible, even with the price difference. Again, look at the US tariffs going back to Trump 1. There's a good reason that carbon frames at $600 were exempt at the urging of Parlee and others. There have been plenty of reports to sort of place the actual cost of most outsourced framesets in that ballpark. Now, aside from marketing, sponsorship, cache, and multi level distribution, what accounts for the retail price of a real SL8? I don't doubt there are some corners cut, but several thousand dollars in corners? An SL8 frameset is over 3k. Without a handlebar/stem. So yeah, for some of us cost is a consideration.
In my case the algebra was simple. I'm 65. Its questionable whether I'll be comfortable on an aggro geometry bike (and for how much longer, lol), and rather than risk 2500 or so on a used sl8 to find out, here I'm risking 700 bucks. If the geo works and the bike is nice enough, I'll hang on to it, if it sucks in either ride or fit, its not an economic disaster. I've had non clone bikes from Hong Fu etc that were fine, and while this is a more sophisticated thing, I'm not worried.
Still, I'd be willing to pitch a hundred bucks Patrick's way to help fund an x68 back to back, out of genuine curiosity as to how close or far from an acknowledge halo bike it is.
PS-I hear you, Patrick about the "softness" of the sl8 relatively. Its why I sort of chuckle at reviews of the x68 that say its "slightly soft". Hell, the real thing is.
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You are far too kind and generous @glepore thank you!
I'm still reviewing TanTan's latest gravel frame so I don't wanna ruin my good graces with them until all the video content has been fulfilled. Also I suspect they wouldn't be keen on sending the X68 for reviews since they don't really wanna be promoting clones in public's eye. The X38 Scott Foil clone I paid for myself.
TanTan would most likely want me to commit financially to the X68. I'll see if I can negotiate haha. It's 2 month turnaround anyway.
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You are far too kind and generous @glepore thank you!
I'm still reviewing TanTan's latest gravel frame so I don't wanna ruin my good graces with them until all the video content has been fulfilled. Also I suspect they wouldn't be keen on sending the X68 for reviews since they don't really wanna be promoting clones in public's eye. The X38 Scott Foil clone I paid for myself.
TanTan would most likely want me to commit financially to the X68. I'll see if I can negotiate haha. It's 2 month turnaround anyway.
I guess you should do more penetration test to make content :)
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I'll just toss out there that I think the margins are narrowing. EPS, the sharing of knowledge etc. have made things closer. The VAM clones by all reports are pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing. I suspect the X68 is closer to an SL bike than the x38 is to a Foil. Time will tell.
Its not impossible, even with the price difference.
+1 on that. The layup know-how is with the factories, not the brands, at this point, i'm pretty sure. Westerners don't like going to and spending time in China. Some brands will do in house prototypes, you'd have to trust that the factory would replicate the layup - i'd question that. Most brands don't do any layup, they ask the factory to get the frame to be that stiff in that area, to weigh that much, and voila. I'm convinced that if you're not on the factory floor, you don't know your product. Especially in China.
People locally talk, they learn, they switch companies, they start their own thing, they moonlight. Techniques are getting better, know-how is getting better, and know-how is spreading.
On price, i heard that the factory that makes frames for Factor charges Factor less than $500 per frame...
Now, can you buy a fake SL8 and get something indistinguishable? No idea. But we're not talking rocket ships. And with tyres getting bigger, all this air will mute a lot of differences. And even if back to back, you may be able to tell the difference, ride whichever frame 5x and you'll probably forget how the other one felt. For probably 90% of riders (the last 10% would be racers, sprinters and the likes).
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And keeping in mind: OEM SL8 is around 700g, the X68 araing 840g, means 20% more material to cover up non-optimal layup pattern ... saving 4k on a frame
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And keeping in mind: OEM SL8 is around 700g, the X68 araing 840g, means 20% more material to cover up non-optimal layup pattern ... saving 4k on a frame
That's the same pretty much as the Pro Model. i think your looking at 850-900g for a 54cm
My genuine SL8 54CM IS 700g
That's acceptable and well light compared wit some of the OEM open mould generally around 1000g
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On price, i heard that the factory that makes frames for Factor charges Factor less than $500 per frame...
+1 Here too
Price ≠ Quality – Hard Facts on Building Blocks, Smartphones, Carbon Bikes & Cars
Many people assume: High price = high quality, low price = cheap junk. But that’s not necessarily true. Quality means meeting requirements – and these are set individually by each customer. Additionally, there are standards like ISO norms.
A clear example: Building Blocks. LEGO, the European Danish brand, charges high prices. But if you compare their products to Chinese competitors like Pantasy or Panlos or Funwhole , you might be shocked.
Facts:
✔️ Chinese brands offer products at half the price – with better quality!
✔️ No scratches on the bricks
✔️ Less color variation
✔️ Printed parts instead of cheap stickers
✔️ Higher-quality prints (LEGO prints only once, causing colors to shine through)
LEGO cuts costs everywhere – and it shows. Price is not a guarantee for quality or "good" Product.
The same applies to smartphones.
What do you think an iPhone costs to produce? Just a few hundred euros – but it sells for five times that amount! Here, you’re not paying for quality but for branding, marketing, and profit margins.
And it’s no different with carbon bikes.
According to my research, a carbon frame costs around €300–600 to manufacture. Important: This refers to production costs, not the retail price or sales price! Yet, these bikes are sold for thousands in stores.
Even cars follow this pattern.
Take the Xiaomi SU7 Max: In China, it costs around €38,000, but in Germany, the price jumps to €70,000! This massive markup isn’t about quality – it’s about import taxes, branding, and extra costs.
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I will be keen on hearing more ride impressions from the folks in here. Seems like specifically the X68 should be very close to the actual SL8. Only time will tell...
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As far as I can tell from this thread, only you and Sander have genuine sl8's-the ride impressions from the rest of us are likely meaningless.
FWIW, I'm only 165 cm and 60 kg with an old guy's ftp to match, so my ride impressions will be skewed. Unless the bike is a complete noodle or rides like a 2x4 I'll likely think its ok. My other bikes are high end mixed materials or ti and can't really serve as data points. Closest thing to an actual sl series that I've owned was an older SS Evo.
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Well, after the first 100km on the bike I can confirm that it is very rigid. Having used a Velobuild 268 about 5000km last year. This Tantan X68 shows from the outset the differences in driving.
I won't go into details of whether it's easier to maintain high speed at less watts, but I've been able to see that in strong sprints at 900 watts 268 It was more flexible than this bike
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I can compare it at least to my SL7 on which I have 120.000 km :D
Btw so can someone confirm me that it is compatible with front 140 mm disc rotors?
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I can compare it at least to my SL7 on which I have 120.000 km :D
Btw so can someone confirm me that it is compatible with front 140 mm disc rotors?
Will be very curious to hear your thoughts on how the 2 frames compare, given you're pushing equipment in ways that 90+% of the users on this forum dont.
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
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Sweet color, don't drop it.
I just saved a hundred bucks! Want some tequila?
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Sweet color, don't drop it.
I just saved a hundred bucks! Want some tequila?
Haha I stopped drinking 16 months ago. Ironically the last drink I had was tequila I think. It sucks tbh. No spirit-free cocktail can replace the taste of a good old fashion...
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Will be very curious to hear your thoughts on how the 2 frames compare, given you're pushing equipment in ways that 90+% of the users on this forum dont.
Yes I ride a lot with yearsly also 400.000m elevation and rac(ed) a lot with a usually around 20h of training per week. Thus I know my Tarmac SL7 very very well. I was also a bit sceptical about the chinese frames. But recently I bought a Carbonda 505 SL as gravel/road bike and i am amazed of how well it rides also compared to my SL7. Thus for only 700 dollars I will give the Seraph a try. I will even stick the same components on it, same wheels, same groupset (found a ultegra 11 speed di2 for cheap from a local Conti riders old second bike), same saddle and most importantly i have also on my SL7 the Roval Rapide cockpit, so I can compare that. I will try to report here.
Still wondering if the 140mm front brake disc will work though.
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Via e-Mail they confirmed to me, that the frame works with 140/140, and that another adapter is needed for 160. I ordered just 2 weeks ago, so it'll take some time till I can confirm first hand.
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Yes I ride a lot with yearsly also 400.000m elevation and rac(ed) a lot with a usually around 20h of training per week. Thus I know my Tarmac SL7 very very well. I was also a bit sceptical about the chinese frames. But recently I bought a Carbonda 505 SL as gravel/road bike and i am amazed of how well it rides also compared to my SL7. Thus for only 700 dollars I will give the Seraph a try. I will even stick the same components on it, same wheels, same groupset (found a ultegra 11 speed di2 for cheap from a local Conti riders old second bike), same saddle and most importantly i have also on my SL7 the Roval Rapide cockpit, so I can compare that. I will try to report here.
Still wondering if the 140mm front brake disc will work though.
My good man, please make a dedicated thread here to share your thoughts when you're done. You could break the internet. Genuinely, if you transfer the components, including wheels, tyres, cockpit, given how much you ride, your FTP, the type of riding you do, you comparing a real SL7 to this frame will credibly answer questions almost every one looking at chinese frames is asking. I would even want you on the nero show podcast shooting $hit w Jesse Coyle, because again, you'd be credible.
It's exciting :D
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Yes I ride a lot with yearsly also 400.000m elevation and rac(ed) a lot with a usually around 20h of training per week. Thus I know my Tarmac SL7 very very well. I was also a bit sceptical about the chinese frames. But recently I bought a Carbonda 505 SL as gravel/road bike and i am amazed of how well it rides also compared to my SL7. Thus for only 700 dollars I will give the Seraph a try. I will even stick the same components on it, same wheels, same groupset (found a ultegra 11 speed di2 for cheap from a local Conti riders old second bike), same saddle and most importantly i have also on my SL7 the Roval Rapide cockpit, so I can compare that. I will try to report here.
Still wondering if the 140mm front brake disc will work though.
AFAIK default rotor size for SL8 is 160mm for the front fork, so you may need to buy a cheap reverse disc rotor size adapter from 160mm to a 140mm reducer.
Would look forward to your build and experience bro, good luck!
PS Saw this video over at youtube, I can see the guy simply fipped the disc rotor mount;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI)
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My good man, please make a dedicated thread here to share your thoughts when you're done. You could break the internet. Genuinely, if you transfer the components, including wheels, tyres, cockpit, given how much you ride, your FTP, the type of riding you do, you comparing a real SL7 to this frame will credibly answer questions almost every one looking at chinese frames is asking. I would even want you on the nero show podcast shooting $hit w Jesse Coyle, because again, you'd be credible.
It's exciting :D
Haha i can think of that when I have the frame. Either a thread or a good post here. I for sure will abuse the frame, while Im not pushing insane watts (threshold around 335w with 65kg) I am for sure relative competitive.
But yes I cannot wait to have the frame in my hands. Being on the nero show would be maybe a bit to much.
btw if you want to follow me im here on strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/8718766
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Have the frame built with Ultegra di2 11s and Onirii pedals, some 45mm deep heavy wheels and S-Works Power, weighs in at 7.2kg.
I'm having an issue with brake caliper mounts on the front, they aren't faced and my LBS says they can't face them because of the unusual length between the both screws.. I think with the Park Tool facing tool this should be fixable, just have to find a bike shop that will do this for me.
I'm excited about the first kilometers on the bike in the next weeks. Can only compare to my SL6 clone from Delihea/Trifox
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Haha i can think of that when I have the frame. Either a thread or a good post here. I for sure will abuse the frame, while Im not pushing insane watts (threshold around 335w with 65kg) I am for sure relative competitive.
But yes I cannot wait to have the frame in my hands. Being on the nero show would be maybe a bit to much.
btw if you want to follow me im here on strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/8718766
Yep definitely interested in reading some more reviews and maybe some photos.
Was thinking of Taiwan Eisen Frame but again maybe X68. Tan Tab said the manufacture it but who knows.
If we could get some cold hard evidence they did and were not trading frames I might pull the trigger. But will read as I am i no rush to get another frame as I would use as a winter bike in UK anyway
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
I also dropped that metal plate holding the front derailleur plate into the seat tube absolute pain to get that back
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Have the frame built with Ultegra di2 11s and Onirii pedals, some 45mm deep heavy wheels and S-Works Power, weighs in at 7.2kg.
I'm having an issue with brake caliper mounts on the front, they aren't faced and my LBS says they can't face them because of the unusual length between the both screws.. I think with the Park Tool facing tool this should be fixable, just have to find a bike shop that will do this for me.
I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
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I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
I don't know whether it's the same spacing as Specialized or different from their spacing.
They did ship with the adapter for 160mm, I will ride with 160mm disc in the front
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I also dropped that metal plate holding the front derailleur plate into the seat tube absolute pain to get that back
For future user, you can have a look at pages 20, 21 and 22 of the Tarmac SL8 manual. It explains how to install it.
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I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
Yes, you get the proper adapter for the 160mm rotor. You can see it in the picture below. I also set it up with 160mm in the back, and I used the Shimano flat mount adapter that was provided with the 105 di2 kit I got.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZahWCEys7QcntiSH_ZXIWIQdF5lDjy_k/view?usp=drive_link
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We also had issues with the brake calipers settling in. This can be fixed with the specific tool, but we could let Tantan know about this problem so they can fix it, since quite a few of us have had it. It also happens on 12k bikes.
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Yes, you get the proper adapter for the 160mm rotor. You can see it in the picture below. I also set it up with 160mm in the back, and I used the Shimano flat mount adapter that was provided with the 105 di2 kit I got.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZahWCEys7QcntiSH_ZXIWIQdF5lDjy_k/view?usp=drive_link
Ok so and to use 140mm rotors you turn it around or you need another adapter? Or do you use the normal one of shimano?
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Ok so and to use 140mm rotors you turn it around or you need another adapter? Or do you use the normal one of shimano?
I believe you can't use the 140mm front brake rotor. I don't know how that would work with this adapter. I don't think turning it around or something would work.
I remember when I was putting on the front brake caliper, I tested the Shimano adapter that came with the calipers, and that seemed to fit, so maybe 140mm could work.
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I believe you can't use the 140mm front brake rotor. I don't know how that would work with this adapter. I don't think turning it around or something would work.
I remember when I was putting on the front brake caliper, I tested the Shimano adapter that came with the calipers, and that seemed to fit, so maybe 140mm could work.
OKay I see. I think there remains nothing left as to try for myself once I have the frame.
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Yeah, it remains a mystery. The actual sl8 is 160 only which causes problems in Campy land as they're standard front road caliper is native 160, so you end up having to use a rear caliper and Specialized plate, as Specialized chose unique spacing for the brake mounts. So it may be that Tantan ships this with a 140 mount or not. Guess we'll both find out.
My bike finally cleared outbound customs after being held for 6 days for "verification". Day 71 from payment.
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Yeah, it remains a mystery. The actual sl8 is 160 only which causes problems in Campy land as they're standard front road caliper is native 160, so you end up having to use a rear caliper and Specialized plate, as Specialized chose unique spacing for the brake mounts. So it may be that Tantan ships this with a 140 mount or not. Guess we'll both find out.
My bike finally cleared outbound customs after being held for 6 days for "verification". Day 71 from payment.
Jasus, 71 days! There must be a huge demand.
What’s size and colour have you ordered?
Woukd love to see more photos of your frames fellas and ladies!
I’ve been considering a few options, including the Taiwan Eisen and a few others, but Tan Tan seems to have more positive reviews. I’m now leaning back toward this frame for my build, which will go up against my genuine SL8. Planning to use XM wheels, Ultegra, a Ryet saddle, and an OSPW
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Nuthin special, just the pearl white shown in their promos. In fairness, paid 1/19, then the New Year came, then I hear paint was backed up due to the backlog, then they put the wrong cassette on and a couple days to email back and forth to make sure I was ok with it (32 vs 34 ordered, have a light 34 here anyway), then 5 days while customs inspected it. So likely not typical, but I ain't getting any younger.
I have a pile of stuff waiting, XM 50/65, quarq, light cassette, cages. Campy calipers and rotors to swap for the Wheeltop, yada.
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Nuthin special, just the pearl white shown in their promos. In fairness, paid 1/19, then the New Year came, then I hear paint was backed up due to the backlog, then they put the wrong cassette on and a couple days to email back and forth to make sure I was ok with it (32 vs 34 ordered, have a light 34 here anyway), then 5 days while customs inspected it. So likely not typical, but I ain't getting any younger.
I have a pile of stuff waiting, XM 50/65, quarq, light cassette, cages. Campy calipers and rotors to swap for the Wheeltop, yada.
lol ok well I will be very interested to here how you build goes.
I hope it goes well!
Still waiting for Patrick review
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
That is a sweet colour looks to nice to race!
Well I'm sure they will also do this style in other colours :D
I am getting close to pulling the trigger ot sure what my weight weenie breatharian would think thought ! ;D
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
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I am currently considering this frame (or the LCR017-D) but I am not entirely sure yet.
Would be my first self build bike anyway and I have been indecisive for over a year now ::)
I'm curious how tall the people are that buy the 58.
I'm 194cm and the Specialized Website would recommend a size 61 for me. It does have a 591mm stack though, which I would instinctively say could work out.
And does anyone know what TanTan is recommending for max rider/system weight?
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I'm curious how tall the people are that buy the 58.
I'm 194cm and the Specialized Website would recommend a size 61 for me. It does have a 591mm stack though, which I would instinctively say could work out.
And does anyone know what TanTan is recommending for max rider/system weight?
I'm 190cm and ordered 58 and 110m stem lenght. I've asked GC Performance (he is building lot of original SL8) about size and he suggested 58.
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I also got told yesterday that my frame has a delay of 5/10 day in production. Was kind of expecting it really. Im not in a hurry and for what I pay to wait a 1/2 weeks more is ok.
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I also got told yesterday that my frame has a delay of 5/10 day in production. Was kind of expecting it really. Im not in a hurry and for what I pay to wait a 1/2 weeks more is ok.
So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
Maybe ask for only a matte clearcoat and no paint and leave out the "raw" part?
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I wanted to order the frame in dark matte blue (like RedBull F1 Car/ Pantone 296C) but even Tantan said that they would not recommend the matte Finish because it scratches very easy. I am not sure right now. I have a Matte Black Rose Bike which does not have any scratches after 1 1/2 Years but I don't know if the paint quality from Tantan will be as good. My Airwolf frame seems to scratch more easily even tho it is glossy.
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
I payed March 13th. So 18 days which is ok and as I said it is really ok for me to wait a bit. Based on the times which I have read in this forum I expect it to arrive at the beginning of May. And yes the language barrier is real.
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
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At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
Yep sorted and trigger pulled!
After payment, the shipment will be completed in 20-25 working days.
Shipping to the UK: about 10-18 days.
The factory has been very busy recently, and the orders have increased dramatically.
Thank you.
May get actual RAW frame and get it finished myself as lead in is only 7-10 days fir this but that’s also bars and seatpost
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
Hi,
by chameleon white do you mean pearl white?
I was also looking at Ryet saddles...which model did you get?
Thanks
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Hi,
by chameleon white do you mean pearl white?
I was also looking at Ryet saddles...which model did you get?
Thanks
Ryet 3D Aircode 155mm with carbon shell
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwTllLE
Pearl white is different.
Chameleon white https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC3tCBTtIZ1/?igsh=MW82bmRjazg2cmltMg==
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
Are these XM-wheels? Do you mind elaborating on the specifications and price for the wheels?
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Pearl white is different.
Chameleon white https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC3tCBTtIZ1/?igsh=MW82bmRjazg2cmltMg==
The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
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Yep sorted and trigger pulled!
After payment, the shipment will be completed in 20-25 working days.
Shipping to the UK: about 10-18 days.
The factory has been very busy recently, and the orders have increased dramatically.
Thank you.
May get actual RAW frame and get it finished myself as lead in is only 7-10 days fir this but that’s also bars and seatpost
Cool. Curious as to why you folks with actual sl8's are ordering these...
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Cool. Curious as to why you folks with actual sl8's are ordering these...
less expensive second bike for Winters in UK.
Plus i buy western brands and I also follow Chinese products closely as well, as but them.
I had a second bike Winspace SLC2.0 with hyper wheels but It was a little to small and I am bored so need a new project.
Tan Tan X68
XM Carbon speed Wheels 60f 65 & Carbon Crank
Ultegra Di2 Groupset
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less expensive second bike for Winters in UK.
Plus i buy western brands and I also follow Chinese products closely as well, as but them.
I had a second bike Winspace SLC2.0 with hyper wheels but It was a little to small and I am bored so need a new project.
Tan Tan X68
XM Carbon speed Wheels 60f 65 & Carbon Crank
Ultegra Di2 Groupset
Sorry for the off-topic but may I ask which carbon crank you plan on using? Thanks in advance.
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Sorry for the off-topic but may I ask which carbon crank you plan on using? Thanks in advance.
Well I have literally just purchase some wheels from DFS Carbon (based in Xiamen)and also there crank.
Have ordered a set of 60-65mm deep 25mm inner width Superlight T1000 UD Paintless Rims 20-20H H-Works Hubs which are generic as everyone seems to be using these and 5mm at carbon spokes.
Cranks is 170mm UD Raw Gloss with 24mm Ti axle including Alu spider, again this design is generic like they are all but they have tested against Cybrei Eliliee THM sram etc well allegedly they sent data.
doing managed to get the wheels and cranks with delivery tax free (thats i take with a pinch of salt
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The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
Don't think so. But I don't have a frame yet so can' confirm for 100%
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After bought and build several Velobuild frames I would like to go ahead with this frame as a next project.
But as always, I’m doubting about the paintjob.
Does anyone has experience with an ice crack paint job? Is this the same quality as a ‘normal’ paintjob?
It costs 3times as much as a standard paintjob (90 vs 280) so I want to be sure that at least the quality is the same.
Any other opinions why not to go ahead with this paintjob, please give your comments.
I added a picture from a different frame to give you an idea about the paintjob if you are not familiar with this.
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+1 on that. The layup know-how is with the factories, not the brands, at this point, i'm pretty sure. Westerners don't like going to and spending time in China. Some brands will do in house prototypes, you'd have to trust that the factory would replicate the layup - i'd question that. Most brands don't do any layup, they ask the factory to get the frame to be that stiff in that area, to weigh that much, and voila. I'm convinced that if you're not on the factory floor, you don't know your product. Especially in China.
People locally talk, they learn, they switch companies, they start their own thing, they moonlight. Techniques are getting better, know-how is getting better, and know-how is spreading.
On price, i heard that the factory that makes frames for Factor charges Factor less than $500 per frame...
Now, can you buy a fake SL8 and get something indistinguishable? No idea. But we're not talking rocket ships. And with tyres getting bigger, all this air will mute a lot of differences. And even if back to back, you may be able to tell the difference, ride whichever frame 5x and you'll probably forget how the other one felt. For probably 90% of riders (the last 10% would be racers, sprinters and the likes).
Speaking of know-how, these are the words of CEO Colnago in an interview: "We have the V Series which, like almost all racing bikes made in the world, comes from Asian countries (China and Taiwan). And not for price reasons but because they have developed notable skills on carbon there".
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Speaking of know-how, these are the words of CEO Colnago in an interview: "We have the V Series which, like almost all racing bikes made in the world, comes from Asian countries (China and Taiwan). And not for price reasons but because they have developed notable skills on carbon there".
Well I agree with Serge_K
Things i have noticed in the last 4 years have taken a massive leap, and yes knowhow is spread.
Joe Whittingham also say this in his YT China Cycling channel or interviews he has had with other you tubers.
People move around gain knowledge an pass knowledge on so everything keeps getting better and the Chinese have caught on and are developing there own brands as that is where the $$$ is
Xiamen obviously is where at is at for the industry
Xiamen Shenzhen/Guangdong
Specialization in Bike Frames ✅ Yes, major hub ❌ Not primary
Carbon Fiber Application Mostly bicycles & Wheels More tech & drones
Production Costs Lower than Shenzhen Higher labour & land costs
Presence of Big Brands Many OEMs/ODMs Few frame makers
I'm very very interested to see this frame when I receive and build it against the real thing, it may possibly get to a point where I stop buying the western brands
Same is for watches I have well a pricey watch and now the $1000 copies are near on indistinguishable and need experts to make assessments to there authenticity, as people are getting caught out buying as genuine which may just happen with the bikes.
I buy a real one and a copy and get it same colour decals etc and dont register real frame and sell it with warranty there you go!
And before anyone says anything no I am not planning to do this I do have a moral compass!
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Well I have literally just purchase some wheels from DFS Carbon (based in Xiamen)and also there crank.
Have ordered a set of 60-65mm deep 25mm inner width Superlight T1000 UD Paintless Rims 20-20H H-Works Hubs which are generic as everyone seems to be using these and 5mm at carbon spokes.
Cranks is 170mm UD Raw Gloss with 24mm Ti axle including Alu spider, again this design is generic like they are all but they have tested against Cybrei Eliliee THM sram etc well allegedly they sent data.
doing managed to get the wheels and cranks with delivery tax free (thats i take with a pinch of salt
Do you have a link to where you purchased the wheels and cranks? I have not had luck searching. Thanks
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Rebel
Like TAN TAN I contacted by WhatsApp
I can give you number if you want or email but have been chatting on WhatsApp
Names Angler: +8618850007287
Looking at 2-3 weeks before sent
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The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
Its not pink, its a pearl white. The pearl is very reflective and color shifts based on ambient. Photo of my frame which is same paint.
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Rebel
Like TAN TAN I contacted by WhatsApp
I can give you number if you want or email but have been chatting on WhatsApp
No website
Names Angler: +8618850007287
Looking at 2-3 weeks before sent
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Thanks. I can handle it.
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attached the mia in size 56.
Is that UD Black matte or black matte?
Hows the build going?
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
dovh did they send you paint sample via email for this colour?
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At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
Can you post the photos they sent?
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Sure. Examples are raw, "UD-matte" and "UD-glossy".
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Sure. Examples are raw, "UD-matte" and "UD-glossy".
Thanks Makl :D
I have changed my frame now to UD Glossy
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
So what are your thoughts on the Ryet OSPW? Just noticed it on the bike hows it performing as I was planning on for my build
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What was the cost + paint + shipping for a frameset?
I realized tariffs just started lol
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What was the cost + paint + shipping for a frameset?
I realized tariffs just started lol
UD Matte or Gloss Frame and Bars $589 (AS YOU KNOW CUSTOM PAINT COLOUR PRICE VARY UP TO $150USD)
Headset/Thru Axles $20
Shipping $150
paypal 5% $36
Total $795
Or Patrick price with an email to Vivian $0usd Lol
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So what are your thoughts on the Ryet OSPW? Just noticed it on the bike hows it performing as I was planning on for my build
I must say that it's my first time using any OSPW, so besides it looking cool, I'm not sure what benefits it brings. :D The shifter's performance is amazing, and it shifts almost instantly and precisely. It didn't make it any worse, for sure. I would recommend the Ryet OSWP. My friend recommended it to me, and he's also happy with it.
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The SL8 battery holder that clamps with the expanding holder via Screw works just fine on the TT X68, have mounted it just now. Sits well in the seatpost! Bike is finally ready. Bit heavier than expected/hoped for. 7.5 kg with Ultegra Di2 11s, Equator 45 with Pirelli PZero TLR 32mm, 11-32 ZTTO cassette, Onirii pedals, Sram Red cranks. Will be a fair bit lighter with the new wheelset and 28mm Conti GP5000 S TR
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I must say that it's my first time using any OSPW, so besides it looking cool, I'm not sure what benefits it brings. :D The shifter's performance is amazing, and it shifts almost instantly and precisely. It didn't make it any worse, for sure. I would recommend the Ryet OSWP. My friend recommended it to me, and he's also happy with it.
dovh thanks for getting back to me :D
I have pulled the trigger and ordered this OSPW
I am almost doing a mirror build of my Genuine SL8 as I have the Ceramicspeed OSPW and well this does look very good!
I also have have ordered a Ryet Saddle and some other bits.
Hoping to get this build down to sub 6.8kgs
How the bike riding?
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dovh thanks for getting back to me :D
I have pulled the trigger and ordered this OSPW
I am almost doing a mirror build of my Genuine SL8 as I have the Ceramicspeed OSPW and well this does look very good!
I also have have ordered a Ryet Saddle and some other bits.
Hoping to get this build down to sub 6.8kgs
How the bike riding?
Nice stuff! It's very similar to what I ended up with. I also got a direct mount but did not use it since I felt it didn't fit on there very well. Compared to the hanger Tantan sent with the bike, the edge around thru axle hole and screw hole were quite a bit higher, and when mounted to the bike, it was sticking out inwards.
As for how the bike rides, I only have about 40km on the bike so far, and it feels really good. It's stiff but not uncomfortable, but then again, I can only compare it to the entry-level aluminum bike I had before. This is miles better in terms of riding comfort and feel in comparison.
Also, I'm about to head out for a 100k ride today, so we'll see how it feels on a longer ride :)
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Nice stuff! It's very similar to what I ended up with. I also got a direct mount but did not use it since I felt it didn't fit on there very well. Compared to the hanger Tantan sent with the bike, the edge around thru axle hole and screw hole were quite a bit higher, and when mounted to the bike, it was sticking out inwards.
As for how the bike rides, I only have about 40km on the bike so far, and it feels really good. It's stiff but not uncomfortable, but then again, I can only compare it to the entry-level aluminum bike I had before. This is miles better in terms of riding comfort and feel in comparison.
Also, I'm about to head out for a 100k ride today, so we'll see how it feels on a longer ride :)
Good to know about hanger hmmm well if it does not fit well i can bin it ;D as well who know when the frame arrives hopefully earlier tan estimates!
Main thing to hear is there are no issue with the frame and yes give feedback on your 100K :D
Enjoy your ride!
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Is that you Black people or black people?
Hows the build going?
I have already finished it, after about 300km with it I can say that everything is going perfectly. I have had some problem with the tightening of the seatpost, but usually everything is correct.
I don't know if to attach photos since I have vinylized it with specialized logos and I don't know if this is the right place to do it.
I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
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I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
Eissen quotes a weight (with a photo) of almost 100g less than tantan, so I don't think the source is the same, regardless. I think the headset bearings may also be different sizes.
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Eissen quotes a weight (with a photo) of almost 100g less than tantan, so I don't think the source is the same, regardless. I think the headset bearings may also be different sizes.
From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
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I have already finished it, after about 300km with it I can say that everything is going perfectly. I have had some problem with the tightening of the seatpost, but usually everything is correct.
I don't know if to attach photos since I have vinylized it with specialized logos and I don't know if this is the right place to do it.
I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
Is that problems with the seatpost rail clamps or the frame clamp?
Any issues myself I will buy a genuine one only £20
If it’s the screw and barrel I have a spare and some fine carbon paste will sort it
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Good to know about hanger hmmm well if it does not fit well i can bin it ;D as well who know when the frame arrives hopefully earlier tan estimates!
Main thing to hear is there are no issue with the frame and yes give feedback on your 100K :D
Enjoy your ride!
It was a bit shy of 100k, but it was a really nice ride. The front brake had some issues, but that is unrelated to the frame.
The ride was really nice, and the frame felt really good. I did some quick sprints on to the small hills, hitting over 900w, and all was good, no creaks or anything. On my old bike, I would sometimes hear brake rub and some strange noises from the bottom bracket area when doing similar power outputs (though not measured) on the same sections.
I'm still surprised by how hard/stiff yet comfortable the frame feels. It may be normal for carbon frame bikes, but this is my first experience with one.
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From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
Peter is replying to me..
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Peter is replying to me..
Where has he been hiding ;D
Christ imagine turning on his phone and seeing WhatsApp!
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From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
No argument here about not wanting an Sworks weight clone. As cool as some of the Specialized paint jobs are, I'm a little creepy about TE's marketing of direct counterfeits. But as to the post above that the frames are from the same source or are identical, no. The photos attached are from Tantan and TE's websites and show weights that aren't 5% different, but more like 100g. Again, I don't know that the lighter bike is a good thing...
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^^^^^^
My Tarmac SL8 Pro in a size 56 came in at 827g.
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Ahhh my bad
836g Tan Tan is 52cm
And Vivian at tan tan also sent me these photos of RAW frames
771G and 797G no idea what sizes though
And the red frame 56cm came in at 870g
So of my 54cm UD glossy comes in under that Im happy!
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Vivian said on whatsapp that this frame is “ on hold” right now. Wondering why they stopped the production. QC issues?
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Weird. The frame isn't listed on the seraph page anymore. I paid beginning of february and they havn't even finished the frameset yet.
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Vivian said on whatsapp that this frame is “ on hold” right now. Wondering why they stopped the production. QC issues?
Weird. The frame isn't listed on the seraph page anymore. I paid beginning of february and they havn't even finished the frameset yet.
There are interviews of the dude from Specialized whose entire job is to hunt down fake Specialized stuff. If the guy found a way to claim that Seraph is doing more than a clone - and you can expect Specialized to be the worst patent troll imaginable, because this brand has shown to have no spine over and over again -, that could explain why seraph would go dark.
For reference, a friend of mine, IP lawyer, helped Amazon patent the most random stuff related to conveyor belts, with the explicit aim to prevent the competition from using conveyor belts efficiently. These companies have weaponized patent trolling to extents that are unimaginable to the average Joe. My friend ended up quitting law, she is an engineer & lawyer by training, she was absolutely disgusted by what she was asked to do for these companies.
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There are interviews of the dude from Specialized whose entire job is to hunt down fake Specialized stuff. If the guy found a way to claim that Seraph is doing more than a clone - and you can expect Specialized to be the worst patent troll imaginable, because this brand has shown to have no spine over and over again -, that could explain why seraph would go dark.
For reference, a friend of mine, IP lawyer, helped Amazon patent the most random stuff related to conveyor belts, with the explicit aim to prevent the competition from using conveyor belts efficiently. These companies have weaponized patent trolling to extents that are unimaginable to the average Joe. My friend ended up quitting law, she is an engineer & lawyer by training, she was absolutely disgusted by what she was asked to do for these companies.
It would be interesting to know whether there’s even a patent on a bike frame like the SL8. I mean, it’s obvious that certain features can be patented, but I doubt that this applies to a specific geometry or tube shape. And in contrast to a lot of other sellers, Tantan is not painting fake logos on it.
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You can patent features of a frame, but there's nothing on the sl8 that's patentable except maybe the unique front fork construction.
But the logos etc are trademarked. TE and others that are selling logo'd frames are vulnerable to enforcement, and I don't doubt that Specialized would go after them. It could be that whomever is actually producing the frame has had threats such that they've paused until its sorted, or that demand for the logo'd frames was integral to their production plans.
FWIW, my frame was held for 5 days for customs inspection last week before being released for shipment.
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Vivian said on whatsapp that this frame is “ on hold” right now. Wondering why they stopped the production. QC issues?
Could be anything, really.
If you’re American, no offense—but Donald Trump is currently shaking things up, so if you’ve ordered this frame, it might end up costing more.
I noticed the frame is now showing as unavailable on the Seraph site. I ordered mine last Monday, so maybe demand has outpaced supply and they’ve had to pause sales—who knows.
Did you ask why the frame is on hold?
Could be something to do with Specialized, but the frame doesn’t have any branding, and from what I’ve heard, it’s difficult to enforce patents and copyright laws in China anyway.
Specialized are an American company, so they might not have much legal leverage over there.
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hmm not good to hear. I hope mine will still be shipped out. Ordered it 13 of march.
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hmm not good to hear. I hope mine will still be shipped out. Ordered it 13 of march.
Are you going to message TanTan to see if you will still receive your order.
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Are you going to message TanTan to see if you will still receive your order.
Of course, I already did, no response yet but today is holiday in china afaik.
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Of course, I already did, no response yet but today is holiday in china afaik.
Well I sent an email to see if this affects current orders.
Hopefully it does not!
It still on the seraph website like I said but unavailable.
And this is on Vivian WhatsApp
It is not a public holiday in China today.
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Well I sent an email to see if this affects current orders.
Hopefully it does not!
It still on the seraph website like I said but unavailable.
And this is on Vivian WhatsApp
It is not a public holiday in China today.
Had this reply.
‘Dear Stephen.
Regarding your TT-X68 order,
We are currently waiting for further notice.
Once there is stock available for shipment,
We will arrange shipment for you as soon as possible;
If we are unable to meet your order requirements in the end,
We will also process a refund for you.
Please be patient,
We expect to give you a clear reply next week.
Thank you for your patience and understanding!
Best wishes!
Vivian’
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I got also an answer now, as I said, I ordered my frame on march 13th and they will send it out most likely next week which I am very happy about.
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I was about the finalize my order 2days ago when I got the notification that sales are on hold.
I have asked for the reason (too high demand, QA issue, IP issues, ... ), but they couldn't reply, but confirmed it wasn't a QA issue.
If it was a question about too high demand I would assume they prolongue their leadtime to get the orders in the book, or even communicate this reason. So I also don't think this is the reason of the suspension.
So I assume there are some IP topics that are being handled for the moment. but that's just my assumption based on the feedback and apparantly also Peter from Taiwaneisen has blocked all communication since a couple of days (as there are counterfeits, I can image this is being investigated). So all combined I have a feeling some investigation is ongoing on some sellers.
but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
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I was about the finalize my order 2days ago when I got the notification that sales are on hold.
I have asked for the reason (too high demand, QA issue, IP issues, ... ), but they couldn't reply, but confirmed it wasn't a QA issue.
If it was a question about too high demand I would assume they prolongue their leadtime to get the orders in the book, or even communicate this reason. So I also don't think this is the reason of the suspension.
So I assume there are some IP topics that are being handled for the moment. but that's just my assumption based on the feedback and apparantly also Peter from Taiwaneisen has blocked all communication since a couple of days (as there are counterfeits, I can image this is being investigated). So all combined I have a feeling some investigation is ongoing on some sellers.
but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
I think you can check out the the sp cycle R088. I would get something like that if they would stop my frame.
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I sent an email yesterday morning and no response from tan tan.
these Chinese are really smart, they paint the frames with original writings and even the UCI certificate, making practically identical copies. (tiwaneise) huh
if you have to copy they are very good, if you have to use your brain, they don't have it
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Hmmm. Have to say I'm over the whole experience. I'm at 80 days, no bike. Its been in transit 2 weeks and hasn't left China. And if it arrives, its now going to cost an extra grand if they declared full value, and at that price I could have bought a used genuine sl7.
Its odd that my bike was held for inspection in customs a couple of days before it disappeared from sale. I have to wonder if that's related.
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As we know, it’s all just conjecture at this point.
Tan Tan likely has a lot of sales tied up in this frame, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re misleading people to keep the money flowing.
That said, most people have eventually received their orders—albeit not as quickly as they’d hoped.
If no one ends up getting their frames, though, they might be forced to issue a ton of refunds. And while their reputation for customer service and communication isn’t exactly stellar, that kind of situation wouldn’t be good for them either.
Maybe they’ve just gone quiet for a week to see how things unfold.
When I have whatsApped Vivian I have got a reply and I did enquire about the X69 (LAB71) but they no longer do this either as would have swapped.
On a related note, another seller of counterfeits claimed that Peter from Taiwan (Eisen) has been arrested. I have no idea if that’s true. They even sent me supposed photos of their “factory,” which turned out to be nothing more than a Lumar colour clip of a bike being sprayed— ;D. I called them out on it, and surprise surprise—they didn’t like it and ended up blocking me.
If it does go south I am currently looking at alternatives
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but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
I've been riding my SPCycle R088 since January. Bike rides great. It's practically the same frame as the X68 with EPS molding, but UDH, mechanical cable routing and a standard looking head tube design (no air sniffer head tube). It's also weighs less (mine weighed 790g in size 52cm with hangers) and it costs a bit cheaper.
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I've been riding my SPCycle R088 since January. Bike rides great. It's practically the same frame as the X68 with EPS molding, but UDH, mechanical cable routing and a standard looking head tube design (no air sniffer head tube). It's also weighs less (mine weighed 790g in size 52cm with hangers) and it costs a bit cheaper.
You know what? I hadn't really looked at SPCycle, let alone the R088 frame. It really does look like the SL8 but without the obvious butt sniffer. Same geometry, BSA BB, seatpost, and fork design too.
This might actually be the way to go for consumers looking to avoid any stigma of riding a straight up clone. How much does the frame cost?
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And meanwhile on facebook people are saying that some of the bigger counterfeit sellers are in prison due to the SL8 copies. There is no difference between these frames and the copy from the pictures I saw.
Proof me wrong.. but could be all coincidence ...
Those counterfeit sellers just paint good no name frames if you ask me and sell those.
Would love to see proof that I'm wrong.
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The solution is simple: S-WORKS becomes ASS-WORKS, Factor becomes Tractor, nobody goes to jail, and we can ride our bikes!
Trolls, unite!
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And meanwhile on facebook people are saying that some of the bigger counterfeit sellers are in prison due to the SL8 copies. There is no difference between these frames and the copy from the pictures I saw.
Proof me wrong.. but could be all coincidence ...
Those counterfeit sellers just paint good no name frames if you ask me and sell those.
Would love to see proof that I'm wrong.
Prison? Nah. Patent infringement is a civil thing. Ordered to cease business? Yes thats possible.
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
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In the end too much demand seems like the most plausible cause.
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Well they have three sites
tantancycling.com not showing
seraphbikes.com showing unavailable
tantanbikes.com you can buy full bike and frames from still
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
Guilty as charged.... :) No reply on Insta yet
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Guilty as charged.... :) No reply on Insta yet
Well I have no idea what the deal is!
I have messaged from another account and they are still selling the frame
$589usd
$150usd shipping
Shipping in 20-25 days
with shipping takimg 10-18days
yada yada yada.
Then message for an update on the "on hold" situation and get told I will get an answer next week and not to worry!
Hard not to wory when your told frame is on hold and then they are still sellimg the frame, makes you think what the hell is going on!
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
Yeah, that's my frame/bike build they posted on IG. I messaged them about what durability tests they are doing for this frame but got just a generic response that all tests were done and QC passed. I also sent them the picture since we talked about whether I could send it when the bike would be finished.
With the "on hold" situation, it might very well be that they have a high demand for the frame or are waiting for clarification on some tariff stuff. They might be scared that they will have to pay more for shipping and are now waiting before they send it out to get money from customers up front instead of getting it back from them.
I am glad that I managed to get mine before this issue.
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Well I have no idea what the deal is!
I have messaged from another account and they are still selling the frame
$589usd
$150usd shipping
Shipping in 20-25 days
with shipping takimg 10-18days
yada yada yada.
Then message for an update on the "on hold" situation and get told I will get an answer next week and not to worry!
Hard not to wory when your told frame is on hold and then they are still sellimg the frame, makes you think what the hell is going on!
Indeed, i'd be worried to. Keep us posted, since I really prefer the look of this frame over the spycycle r088 :)
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Well lots of contradictory information coming from Tan Tan at the moment!
Frames on hold but taking new orders and reposts of Dovhs frame on two of there Instagram post.
Could well be to do with Donald Trump puffing his chest out lol ;D, and costing everyone more money >:( :(
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Indeed, i'd be worried to. Keep us posted, since I really prefer the look of this frame over the spycycle r088 :)
The R088 does look a little more like the SL6 in my opinion.
And I like the integrated cockpit frame myself more than a traditional head tube,
I like the SL8 look myself but have beSen looking at some alternative like the Winow WR054 but that is a beast of frame about 1290g in medium UD forks are 570g, seatpost 270g and the bars are not too bad at 350g so, also the Hong Fu (Avenger) Shuttle SL is $900usd in the 750g or $800usd for 870g and that is a good looking bike but need to look at the OEMS because as you know they have the same moulds
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Answer from Vivian today..
"Your order is OK.
Please don't worry.
Thank you."
Ordered 19th march to europe. Will see how it develop
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Answer from Vivian today..
"Your order is OK.
Please don't worry.
Thank you."
Ordered 19th march to europe. Will see how it develop
Well:
"Suspension of Sale only temporary.
The problem being solved now.
Ready for sale."
We would all love to know the problem! ;D
Latest update:
ok I have had a response.
"The quality of the frame is no problem. So don't worry.
Its a matter of whether our molds can be sold This one has no effect on the previous purchase"
So what they're basically saying the issue was with whether they were allowed to keep selling that particular frame (probably due to licensing or copyright concerns) but it doesn't affect any frames that have already been sold.
Still pressing for more info!
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So I'm curious as to how they declare complete bikes. I have a 2k bike in route, in what appears to be one package (one t/n). They did send the bits with batteries separately. But the bike has been in transit 15 days, hasn't moved for the last 4, was customs inspected for 5, and was shipped China Post (grrr). And today the orange buffon that is our President increased tariffs for non de minimis shipments to 104%.
So my 2k bike now is likely 3.5k or 4k, if they declared full value. If they didn't, I'm very likely to get hassled by customs given the pressure.
Buyer beware. I'm thinking of just walking away if the bike ever actually gets here and I get a 1.5k bill.
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Ok another update now Ber put me onto a seller/manufacturer.
Seems quite honest and Ber did say he was straight up
Now he has told me production of the replica is 3-4 months with delivery.
read message screen shots this may explain why some sellers have gone AWOL.
He did have stock frame but a selection with pre sized bars which are no good.
May ask Tan Tan about this and request a refund if necessary
In the context of China, the Market Management Department (often referring to the Market Supervision Administration or 市场监督管理局) is a government authority responsible for:
Regulating product quality and safety
Overseeing intellectual property rights (IPR)
Investigating counterfeit or replica products
Managing business licensing and fair market practices
If you’ve been told they’re checking replica frames, it likely means there’s an investigation into whether a frame design (like the one you ordered) may be infringing on a brand’s copyright, patent, or trademark—often because it’s too similar to a well-known brand’s design.
This could explain why Tan Tan paused sales briefly—they might be under review or being cautious while waiting for the outcome of that check.
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Well I had a text this morning and it’s looks:
I have good news for you:
For the TT-X68 order that has been paid,
all supply links are running normally,
and your order is progressing steadily.
Thank you for your trust and support for our products,
I wish you a happy life.
Best wishes.
Vivian.
I did question and disruption to production as the quoted 20-25 days meant I get the frame end of April.
Reply was:
20-25 working days.
Please take note. Thank you.
I will report to you when there is an update.
No estimated date at this time. Thank you.
Anyone else with an order have any news or updates?
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I mean yes. As I said I paye on march 13th and a few days ago she told me frame will be send between 12th to 18th April. Lets hope.
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it sounds like these frames are flying off the shelves. I spoke with a chinese seller saying that chinese factories aren't focused on bikes like the pinarello X or BMC roadmachines because the chinese population is young and wants to ride the bikes from the TDF.
Point being, pretty sure that for those buying these SL8 clones, your money is competing with chinese money, so the whole planet wants that frame. Well done specialized :)
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it sounds like these frames are flying off the shelves. I spoke with a chinese seller saying that chinese factories aren't focused on bikes like the pinarello X or BMC roadmachines because the chinese population is young and wants to ride the bikes from the TDF.
Point being, pretty sure that for those buying these SL8 clones, your money is competing with chinese money, so the whole planet wants that frame. Well done specialized :)
One of the sellers I spoke to yesterday, as I mentioned, said the wait time for an SL8 is around 3–4 months—but he could get me a Dogma F in just 1–2 months.
I also asked about the Scott Addict RC Pro, and he mentioned that the wait would be even longer, since it's not a particularly popular model and isn’t held in stock. It would have to be made and added to the production queue along with the SL8s.
So yes, it seems like everyone is going crazy for the SL8s right now!
I also spoke with another seller—Cherry, I think, from Champion Bicycle or something similar—who said they aren't affected by the long wait times and claimed their frames are high quality. But let’s be honest, they all claim that!
I'm just happy to be back on track with Tan Tan, but I’m taking their timeline with a pinch of salt. Some buyers are still waiting for delivery, but these delays will be out of Tan Tan’s control. Hopefully, they can stick to the 20–25 day production time they’re quoting. It’s also great to hear about other people’s experiences with Tan Tan.
And yes, I am putting Spec decals on the frame—some may not agree, but I’ve got a real SL8, so that’s my excuse! I'm going for matte black decals over a gloss UD carbon frame. These are from Speedy Decals, although I recently found out I can get decals from a Specialized-approved painter in the UK for half the price—so I’ve ordered a set to compare quality.
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And yes, I am putting Spec decals on the frame—some may not agree, but I’ve got a real SL8, so that’s my excuse!
That reminds me of that Friends episode where Joey buys Porsche gizmos because he wishes he owned the one parked next to the coffee shop :D
You dont need a stranger on the internet to tell you it's illegal, you do you!
What's really interesting to me is the fascination with the SL8, over everything else. It's got to be the brand at least as much as the performance of the frame. In which case, it's to be expected that people would want to put fake logos on it. I have a president who married a dude, so really, who am i to lecture anyone on false advertising? :D
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That reminds me of that Friends episode where Joey buys Porsche gizmos because he wishes he owned the one parked next to the coffee shop :D
You dont need a stranger on the internet to tell you it's illegal, you do you!
What's really interesting to me is the fascination with the SL8, over everything else. It's got to be the brand at least as much as the performance of the frame. In which case, it's to be expected that people would want to put fake logos on it. I have a president who married a dude, so really, who am i to lecture anyone on false advertising? :D
;D I dont think I am at risk of the authoritied breakimg don my door at 5am!
Plus, it will be subtle
This thing is I'm a bit of an S-Works fanboy..... or sucker, if prefer ;D
Iv had the SL6, Venge, SL7 and now SL8
Some people are not fans but if you have not had or ridden or owned one how can an opinion be formed.
They have all been great bikes. Well the Venge was a git of a bone rattler...
Out of all the copies the SL8 is probably the lightest available.
And as s weight weenie i want to build one up using less expensive parts and see how light I can get it. I'm pretty confident 6.8kgs or under
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I suspect that given the outright trade war, China isn't interested at the moment in protecting any US ip. Can't blame them.
My frame was 60 days from order. However, that included New Years and paint.
I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike in terms of ride quality in relation to performance. Whether that carries over remains to be seen. The falloff in US demand should help purchasers in your situation.
After some communication back and forth I'm hoping that I don't have a tariff issue. The electronics were shipped DHL due to the batteries so the package should come in under de minimis if it arrives by 5/2.
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I suspect that given the outright trade war, China isn't interested at the moment in protecting any US ip. Can't blame them.
My frame was 60 days from order. However, that included New Years and paint.
I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike in terms of ride quality in relation to performance. Whether that carries over remains to be seen. The falloff in US demand should help purchasers in your situation.
After some communication back and forth I'm hoping that I don't have a tariff issue. The electronics were shipped DHL due to the batteries so the package should come in under de minimis if it arrives by 5/2.
Well I did see an American post of a video of Chinese government officials pretty much saying that they can make the same thing better, quicker and cheaper so I think its possible there government has now given industry free rein! Its also online they are considering giving counterfeiters free rein! So have a search.
Well I will not lie the SL8 is lovely to ride an it is more comfortable in the rear than the SL7 i was riding the SL8 last year at 95kgs and there was no issue.
Now IM 20kg down inevitably its even more comfortable. A bike can make a difference to comfort but rider weight is also an obvious factor to.
Was not aware of the battery thing as I have ordered a power meter to accompany the wheels and carbon cranks I have ordered.
The supplier was kind enough to source me the XCADEY PM for $265 and ship it, and had to be shipped separately because of the battery, dont think he knew either ;D
60 Days sound about right so hopefully my order will not be that long.
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I was speaking to a cycling apparel brand who's factory is based in China. Like the majority of brands. They told me they can't get their new summer collection here to the USA because of the tariffs.
I asked them:
1. The factory wont ship, because they are waiting on how to proceed with the tariffs?
2. Or the factory wants you the brand to simply to pay high price tariffs to release the shipment?
The brand said it's a combination of both - the current tariff is 145%. So there is no way the factory would eat that cost (nor would it be fair to make them eat it). That's basically the brand's entire profit margin. If not more.
I bring all of this up because TanTan would probably fare better in the eye of consumers if they just offered a little more transparency. I don't think the issue is rooted in SL8 IP. It's that they don't wanna eat the tariff costs on prepaid pre-tariff frames, while also not pissing off customers in queue. All they have to say is: "Hey we are waiting on the tariff situation before proceeding."
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They don't eat the cost. What's dangerous to the consumer buying with all this uncertainty is that you pay, say 2k for a complete x68. They ship. When it arrives in USA, the shipper either holds it and sends you a bill for the tariff (currently 140% or roughly 1400) plus brokerage fee and cpb fees, or delivers it then sends you a bill for that amount. YOU, the importer, pay the tariff, not the shipper.
Shippers are using low declared values to qualify for de minimis for now or low buyer expense later, but that's a risky proposition.
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I'll say it again: come spend cycling holidays in France, we can build your bike there, you cycle for a week or 2, and you fly back :) You'd land in Geneva and cycle in Jura.
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I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike
yes, it is said that it goes better than the original.
come on let's fly a little lower ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I'll say it again: come spend cycling holidays in France, we can build your bike there, you cycle for a week or 2, and you fly back :) You'd land in Geneva and cycle in Jura.
Are you from region?
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Seems a few of the manufacturers are on hold in China at the moment while they tray to figure out what to do about the tariffs.
Its off topic but I had a message from an OEM (wont say who they are yet) today asking of I was interested in the Quick Pro frame, which I was surprised about!
Wonder now if everyone who may have excess product is now trying to maybe off load some inventory
They have not given me a price yet but will find out Monday, quite possibly they could be selling at RRP
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Seems a few of the manufacturers are on hold in China at the moment while they tray to figure out what to do about the tariffs.
Its off topic but I had a message from an OEM (wont say who they are yet) today asking of I was interested in the Quick Pro frame, which I was surprised about!
Wonder now if everyone who may have excess product is now trying to maybe off load some inventory
They have not given me a price yet but will find out Monday, quite possibly they could be selling at RRP
Interesting, keep us posted! Even for 1k, i wouldn't buy it, going fwd i'd rather buy fast frames with higher stack, i think. With the economy where it is, with the western bike industry where it is, selling a frame for 1.8-1.9k that has very little brand / residual value in the 2nd hand market is a tough sale, i think. The reality is that the markup on a frame at this price point is extremely high, yet the brand value is extremely low. On top of that, this frame looks quite bland, and their aero claims are just vibes, it seems.
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Interesting, keep us posted! Even for 1k, i wouldn't buy it, going fwd i'd rather buy fast frames with higher stack, i think. With the economy where it is, with the western bike industry where it is, selling a frame for 1.8-1.9k that has very little brand / residual value in the 2nd hand market is a tough sale, i think. The reality is that the markup on a frame at this price point is extremely high, yet the brand value is extremely low. On top of that, this frame looks quite bland, and their aero claims are just vibes, it seems.
Well something is up if the OEM is selling the frame they make for a brand!
Anyway Tan TAN are back in full swing X68 popped back up on main site and is not available back on the Seraph Site!
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
How much closer is this to becoming a Reality Patrick!
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Awesome paint job.
I ordered two frames, one ud black and one painted, not with a bit so fancy colour.
I'm bad in Photoshop and even worse in explaining stuff to Chinese people, so....
Anyway, paid 4 weeks ago and no proper feedback from Vivian so far.
Asked for a timeline to get the frame shipped and she only sends generic answers.
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Here's a picture of the fully mounted bike. The first walks on it are being very pleasant.
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Here's a picture of the fully mounted bike. The first walks on it are being very pleasant.
Where did you order decals? or chinese done it for you?
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Where did you order decals? or chinese done it for you?
Tan Tan
Will not put specialized on the frame.
I have ordered from Speed Decals
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Hey everyone,
I'm new here – and I think this is actually the first time in my life that I've signed up for a forum. Usually, I'm more of a silent reader who enjoys going through comments on all kinds of topics.
But enough about that – let me quickly introduce you to my SL8 AliExpress Frankenstein project:
Frame: SL8 Size 58, pearl white matt – from Peter in Taiwan
Wheels: Elite Wheels ENT
Groupset: Ltwoo eRX 3.0 from Panda Podium
Brake Discs: ZTTO – 160mm front / 140mm rear
Saddle: Ryet 3D Carbon printed
Tires: Schwalbe Lugano 700x32C
Lately, I’ve been following discussions both here and on Facebook, and I have to say – it seems like @Sander2177 is always the most up-to-date with what's going on.
I’ve already tried a few tricks to get in touch with Peter (different account, calls, even asked AliExpress support for the seller’s email). What's curious is that the person managing the AliExpress account seems to be active almost daily. So far, he’s only read one of my messages – no reply yet, though.
Technically, Peter still has 7 days left to process my order before AliExpress automatically refunds me. So now I’m just waiting to see if he manages to get things moving before the deadline.
Just like many others here have mentioned – right before the holidays, I was told my order was ready for shipping and would be processed on the Monday before he "disappeared" (March 31st). It’s now been three weeks... I placed the order back on March 20th..
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Surprise, surprise, seller of counterfeits turns out to be dodgy - hopefully you end up with your money back and have learned a lesson.
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Yeah, let's see. I'm already considering TanTanCycling as Plan B....
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Yeah, let's see. I'm already considering TanTanCycling as Plan B....
I like to keep my ear to the ground, and I’ve been chatting with a few sellers lately. It seems Chinese authorities have started cracking down on sellers pushing poor-quality products—apparently in response to legal action from (I’m assuming) Chinese nationals. What’s interesting is that these shutdowns don’t seem to be about counterfeiting, which you’d normally expect, and that in itself is a bit surprising.
Obviously, you’ve got to take this kind of info with a pinch of salt, but I’ve had a few sellers say similar things. Just last week, Tan Tan pulled the X68 from sale for a few days, but it’s already back up. YOHO Bike also disappeared for a week and has now returned. I’d genuinely love to know what’s going on behind the curtain.
I’m trying to educate myself and gather as much information as I can to better understand how things work when buying from these kinds of sellers—just so I can properly assess the risk. For me, the risk feels higher when buying from places like Taiwan Eisen, YOHO, Champion Bikes, or Airwolf. They all claim to be manufacturers, but let’s be honest—that’s mostly BS. Most of them are traders. Tan Tan, on the other hand, appears to be a legitimate factory (though whether they actually manufacture this specific frame is still unclear). They do have a reasonably good reputation, even if communication isn’t their strong suit. That said, I emailed Vivian about a custom paint request—I'd selected UD Raw Carbon Glossy—but apparently my order had already progressed to the point where they couldn’t change it. If they were just out for my money, they probably would’ve said yes anyway just to take more from me. So that gives me a bit more confidence.
As for the whole "how can they even make this frame?" question—well, I’ve looked through a bunch of patent info, and I haven’t found anything from Specialized in the US Patent Office that directly covers this frame design or anything close. So if there is any issue, it’s likely to fall more under trademark infringement than an actual patent violation.
I fully accept the risk I’ve taken with my purchases. But unfortunately, a lot of buyers don’t realize what they’re getting into. And I’m not really sure how dependable AliExpress is when it comes to refund claims—it’s definitely not eBay. So yeah, I hope you get your money back.
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^ I've been digging around a bit. The sl8 isn't specifically patented that I can find, but it appears that the sl6 or 7 is-D865574(search here https://ppubs.uspto.gov/pubwebapp/static/pages/ppubsbasic.html). Since most of the design elements of the sl8 are almost identical to the sl7, I suspect its not been patented as its covered by the prior patent. Sworks Tarmac sl8 is trademarked. Whether Chinese authorities will enforce these patents remains to be seen, but I suspect that its enough to make folks nervous given Specialized pressure.
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^ I've been digging around a bit. The sl8 isn't specifically patented that I can find, but it appears that the sl6 or 7 is-D865574(search here https://ppubs.uspto.gov/pubwebapp/static/pages/ppubsbasic.html). Since most of the design elements of the sl8 are almost identical to the sl7, I suspect its not been patented as its covered by the prior patent. Sworks Tarmac sl8 is trademarked. Whether Chinese authorities will enforce these patents remains to be seen, but I suspect that its enough to make folks nervous given Specialized pressure.
And here I thought I was the sleuth!
Well if there is no patent on the frame design we’ll
Can blame Tan Tan a lot more SL8 counterfeits than the old SL7
So maybe Specialized dropped the ball a little but patents from what I known can be notoriously difficult to register.
Anyway I’m so intrigued to see how this compares to my Gen SL8 I won’t lie I’m excited.
Feedback from everyone who has the frame has been positive part from the longer than quoted manufacturing times and lengthy deliveries.
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I sent 3 emails to seraph these days to understand the shipping times of the frame. zero answers. strange, last year I contacted them for another frame and they answered me quickly
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I sent 3 emails to seraph these days to understand the shipping times of the frame. zero answers. strange, last year I contacted them for another frame and they answered me quickly
Well I was quoted 10-18 days however Tan Tan cannot be held responsible for shipping times are these are estimates set but the shippers themselves.
Have they quoted a shipping service to you at all?
If so go to the shippers website
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Well I was quoted 10-18 days however Tan Tan cannot be held responsible for shipping times are these are estimates set but the shippers themselves.
Have they quoted a shipping service to you at all?
If so go to the shippers website
more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
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more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
Just think about the volume of emails and messages Vivian and Rose must get every day I would
only assume if they cannot keep up emails will inevitably get missed so be patient.
Have you the WhatsApp numbers? If not give these a try I find these are the quickest way to get a reply myself.
Vivian Ttian +86 136 9093 8214
Rose Huang +86 188 2485 0694
They have been quoting 20-25 days for X68 frame but I’m assuming depends on frames.
To be honest I have been dealing with Vivian and the response via email and WhatsApp has been fine
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I mean yes. As I said I paye on march 13th and a few days ago she told me frame will be send between 12th to 18th April. Lets hope.
So any update on your frame have the posted it tiz92?
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So any update on your frame have the posted it tiz92?
Yes today. I will need to wait more 7-10 days. I think they send it not before beginning of may but I dont have stress. They told me they had such a high amount of orders that the painting facility is very far behind. Thats the reason why they stopped orders for some time.
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more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
[/quote
Thanks for the update.
I actually asked about custom paint options on Monday, but was told I they could not change my paint option so UD glossy it is!
What about you—what did you go for in terms of paint?
Is it a full build or just the frame? And if it’s frame-only, what are you planning to build it up with?
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I also asked that if the limiting part is the painting if they could send me the raw frame in the case its ok to ride. I dont care at all about the colour.
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I also asked that if the limiting part is the painting if they could send me the raw frame in the case its ok to ride. I dont care at all about the colour.
I was originally told a raw, unprinted frame would take 7–10 days when I first enquired.
But getting it painted here in the UK was estimated at around £500, since the frame would likely still need prepping—almost the cost of the frame itself—so it just didn’t make sense.
I had been looking at a finish called Chromacoat Fireball. I had a frame painted in it a few years back and it looked badass—black, red, and gold. It’s not a colour Tan Tan offers though.
The idea of custom paint only came about after visiting a new local bike shop that opened over the weekend. They had a Trek TT bike in a green-purple flip finish, and it looked stunning. So for an extra $100–150 USD, I thought—why the hell not?
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today i sent an email to tan tan, and jessi answered me immediately. great. i requested a no paint frame, i will paint it myself, the price is attractive at 589 instead of 629 dollars. but the tan tan site does not have the automatic payment procedure that the seraph site has. how can i pay on the tan tan site?
he did not specify the production times of the frame or if it was already available in stock.
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If you give her the go ahead she'll send you an invoice along with payment options-paypal, wise etc.
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If you give her the go ahead she'll send you an invoice along with payment options-paypal, wise etc.
thanks
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btw does anybody have experience in using a raw carbon frame without any colour or "protection" coat? Is that even possible. I find varying answers online.
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today i sent an email to tan tan, and jessi answered me immediately. great. i requested a no paint frame, i will paint it myself, the price is attractive at 589 instead of 629 dollars. but the tan tan site does not have the automatic payment procedure that the seraph site has. how can i pay on the tan tan site?
he did not specify the production times of the frame or if it was already available in stock.
I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
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btw does anybody have experience in using a raw carbon frame without any colour or "protection" coat? Is that even possible. I find varying answers online.
Why would you want a frame with no finish at all?
High-end frames like those from SWI or the Masterpiece series by BMC sometimes use this approach—similar to UD (unidirectional) paintless carbon rims. However, achieving a flawless raw carbon look is extremely time-consuming, as any imperfection becomes immediately visible.
Large-scale factories typically don't have the time or precision to pull this off consistently. Most frames will require sanding, the addition of filler to address imperfections, and then a proper finish to achieve a clean and consistent look.
So you can but the frame is going to look Sh1t!
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I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
These links maybe of some help
https://youtu.be/f4gSbvdK0Mw?si=DY-Ig8ECD-1py0rq
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=MnrN6z2x4Jrj0HDw
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Hey y'all, long term review here. I built the bike in January 2025, rode it on the trainer for about a month, and have ridden it outside 3-4 times a week since mid February. I have raced it once. I've got somewhere close to 500 miles on it at this point, maybe more.
Frame: it works, but cant speak to how it compares to other disc brake bikes. I do feel as though it is responsive to putting power down, but maybe not super snappy and that could be several other factors. My previous cervelo r3 rim brake was extremely snappy, but I was also very aggressive when riding that thing. The only "issue" I've had is with the headset cover deal rubbing on the frame itself, instead of floating a .5mm over it. Could be my fault when I built the bike, but going to chalk it up to the part being slightly off. For my first disc brake bike, I have really enjoyed riding it and I'm looking forward to going full weight weenie with it over the next year. I would highly recommend this frame for anyone going the china frame route.
Bars: I went with the 120/38 bars. The bars appear to be exact copies of the specialized bars. They are quite comfortable and have a large aero foil shape to them. I'm not entirely sure where they measure the stem, but this "120" stem has the same length as a 110 stem on another set of bars. I haven't noticed any serious deflection when sprinting, but I'm around 67kg and doing 1200 watt sprints. I don't like the computer mount that's included because it doesn't lock into the handle bar like a traditional 2 bolt under stem mount does. It gets the job done, but I'll be upgrading in the future.
Wheels: The CRW's are fantastic. Aero and lightweight. Seating tires is no issue.
Groupset: its ultegra di2, it works, nothing more to say. the aliexpress cassette works fine, and is only slightly less smooth than a shimano cassette.
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I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
yes, It will be in July, if the times are like this
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Very good news from my side. The frame was send out today. I excpect 3 weeks to get it.
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Very good news from my side. The frame was send out today. I excpect 3 weeks to get it.
I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
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I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
LOL. Mine landed in the USA 6 days ago, no tracking updates, called usps today and its out for delivery to me today, finally, on day 93 since payment. Will assemble and ride over the weekend.
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LOL. Mine landed in the USA 6 days ago, no tracking updates, called usps today and its out for delivery to me today, finally, on day 93 since payment. Will assemble and ride over the weekend.
Jesus 93 Days! and when did you order again and what was the original duration? did they keep you updated at all?
That's double what they claim, I might be putting Christmas decorations up when it comes! :-\ ;D
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I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
I think they dont know exactly how fast the painting factory is. I think they outsource that part and thus have less control over the whole process thus sometimes they can be faster or slower. Nevertheless 3 weeks is quiet normal, I reguarly buy chinese wheelsets and around 20 days is normal but Im fine with that I dont have any stress.
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I think they dont know exactly how fast the painting factory is. I think they outsource that part and thus have less control over the whole process thus sometimes they can be faster or slower. Nevertheless 3 weeks is quiet normal, I reguarly buy chinese wheelsets and around 20 days is normal but Im fine with that I dont have any stress.
I ordered the same day as you (13.03.25), and also was notified today that my frame was shipped out. Did they send you a photo of your order as well? In the photo they sent me, the seatpost looks a bit short. I hope they didn't send the short version (I ordered frame size 56). Also the frame looks rather black matte, although I ordered "UD matte", however that wouldn't be a dealbreaker...
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Mine is here. Initial impressions-well packed, wheels and frame in single box (size 49). My bike shipped 160/160 rotors (wheeltop build) . Rotors are low end shimano. Crank (going in bin) is senix, rings look same brand but ok.
As far as the fork goes, the distance between the points for the mount on the fork is 60mm. The adapter does not appear to be reversible for 140, but I'm not taking it off for now as I'm running 160 anyway. Will update when I mount campy calipers in a couple weeks.
The seatpost binder is even branded (tarmac) so suspect the Hylix post will fit for those wanting zero.
The chameleon white is stunning in the sun.
Only niggle so far is paid for the 3d saddle and didn't get one. have one here.
Build report in a day or so.
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I ordered the same day as you (13.03.25), and also was notified today that my frame was shipped out. Did they send you a photo of your order as well? In the photo they sent me, the seatpost looks a bit short. I hope they didn't send the short version (I ordered frame size 56). Also the frame looks rather black matte, although I ordered "UD matte", however that wouldn't be a dealbreaker...
No foto, they just asked me if the shipping adress was correct.
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Mine is here. Initial impressions-well packed, wheels and frame in single box (size 49). My bike shipped 160/160 rotors (wheeltop build) . Rotors are low end shimano. Crank (going in bin) is senix, rings look same brand but ok.
As far as the fork goes, the distance between the points for the mount on the fork is 60mm. The adapter does not appear to be reversible for 140, but I'm not taking it off for now as I'm running 160 anyway. Will update when I mount campy calipers in a couple weeks.
The seatpost binder is even branded (tarmac) so suspect the Hylix post will fit for those wanting zero.
The chameleon white is stunning in the sun.
Only niggle so far is paid for the 3d saddle and didn't get one. have one here.
Build report in a day or so.
Nice from memory in the WW forum wheee some gripes that only 160mm rotors could be run up front and have not seen any posts i can recall of anyone running 140mm however may be wrong
Look forward to the build report b
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The real sl8 is 160 only as Specialized used a spacing on the fork mounts that's unique to it and the Aetheos, supposedly for mass reduction. It won't take a 140 mount. Its only a problem for Campy users as the stock Campy road front caliper is native 160 (the mount is cast into the caliper) and doesn't work on an Sl8. The solution is to use a rear caliper and the stock Specialized mount w/ the 160 rotor. Ekar calipers are cheapish and identical to the road 140 other than matte finish and logo.
Normal flat mount spacing on the fork is 70mm, this fork and the actual sl8 measure 60mm
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A couple additional notes. First, everything was very well faced. Maybe due to that I ordered it as a built bike and that was an advantage, or maybe they just do a nice job. I did pull the bb to replace with a ceramic, and the finish level interior is at least as nice as the photos posted.
The crankset they sent I scoffed at, but its actually ok, 780g w rings, direct mount 3 bolt sram style, 24 mm. I'm not going to use it as I have a carbon sram here with a quarq.
I did have a very minor issue with the seatpost, I had ordered all matching gold anno bolts for everything. The kit for the seatpost came with a gold barrel, and it was set for the oem post and about a half mm larger than tantan's. Fixed it by reaming the post, but the tantan barrel was visually smaller, so not a tolerance thing but an actual difference.
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A couple additional notes. First, everything was very well faced. Maybe due to that I ordered it as a built bike and that was an advantage, or maybe they just do a nice job. I did pull the bb to replace with a ceramic, and the finish level interior is at least as nice as the photos posted.
The crankset they sent I scoffed at, but its actually ok, 780g w rings, direct mount 3 bolt sram style, 24 mm. I'm not going to use it as I have a carbon sram here with a quarq.
I did have a very minor issue with the seatpost, I had ordered all matching gold anno bolts for everything. The kit for the seatpost came with a gold barrel, and it was set for the oem post and about a half mm larger than tantan's. Fixed it by reaming the post, but the tantan barrel was visually smaller, so not a tolerance thing but an actual difference.
This is good news bro that you got yours, is the chameleon white comparable to the stock white non s works specialized version?
do you have a dealer near you that you could compare the colors with?
Lastly, post some pix and vids bro flex that beautiful frame, thanks!
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Sorry for the slight off topic, but as this is the most active "fake" thread, i might as well post it here.
There is definetly some prosecution happening behind the curtain in the fake Scene. The "Chinese Bikes" Facebook groups, where replicas where the main topic of conversation, got deleted. Maybe due to the replica-talk, maybe for other reasons...
I dont know what leverage the authorities have on chinertown, and i hope this forum will not be affected.
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
hello nice creation. can i ask you what height your saddle is? thanks
and one last thing: what handlebar measurements did you take?
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So any updates on the possibility to use 140 mm front brakes?
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So any updates on the possibility to use 140 mm front brakes?
See my posts from yesterday. I believe the answer is no.
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Photos. Chain in the wax pot, so not installed. Bike ships with computer mount, but I used a magcad and its very secure. Rear varia mount from esty.
Weight is 7.1 kg. Will get below 7 with caliper and rotor swap and some odds and ends.
Its a divisive topic, I know, but its going to get gold graphics from Speedy Decals.
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Photos. Chain in the wax pot, so not installed. Bike ships with computer mount, but I used a magcad and its very secure. Rear varia mount from esty.
Weight is 7.1 kg. Will get below 7 with caliper and rotor swap and some odds and ends.
Its a divisive topic, I know, but its going to get gold graphics from Speedy Decals.
Yep divisive with the decals so much so I have also ordered a set from Speedy Decals
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I am curious to read ride impression from people who own/rode a real SL8
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I am curious to read ride impression from people who own/rode a real SL8
I have an S-Works SL8—before that, I had the SL7 and the Venge. It’s not as stiff as the Venge that was a harsh ride, but it’s equally stiff as the SL7, just noticeably more comfortable, thanks in part to the skinny rear stays. It’s fast on the flats, but also a great bike for climbing—responsive and snappy.
Anything else you’d like to know?
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
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hello nice creation. can i ask you what height your saddle is? thanks
and one last thing: what handlebar measurements did you take?
Thanks!
it’s 774 mm, and the cockpit I got is 420mm with 90mm stem.
Also a bit of an update, i have now almost 300km on the bike and it’s been mostly without any issues.
I had garmin mount bolt come loose but now it’s fine after adding loctite to it. The other thing is the seat post clamp is making some clicking noise and the saddle slips down ever so slightly, will add more carbon paste and hopefully it will stop.
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
Bike looks great!
Any plans to go weight weenie a little and get the weight down with some other parts
Also be great to see the decals on once you get them, as I am wondering if they are going to be easy or a faf to install
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¡La bicicleta se ve muy bien!
Cualquier plan para ir peso weenie un poco y bajar el peso con algunas otras partes.
También sea genial ver las calcomanías una vez que las obtenga, ya que me pregunto si serán fáciles o una prueba de instalación para instalar
[/cita]
It depends on how meticulous you are, I spent two hours of my time installing the decals.
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¡La bicicleta se ve muy bien!
Cualquier plan para ir peso weenie un poco y bajar el peso con algunas otras partes.
También sea genial ver las calcomanías una vez que las obtenga, ya que me pregunto si serán fáciles o una prueba de instalación para instalar
[/cita]
It depends on how meticulous you are, I spent two hours of my time installing the decals.
I’m a like ocd lol
So think I can cope with a few hours lol.
Are they just difficult to apply?
Was hoping they be relatively easy
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Bike looks great!
Any plans to go weight weenie a little and get the weight down with some other parts
Also be great to see the decals on once you get them, as I am wondering if they are going to be easy or a faf to install
Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
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Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
Great thanks for the Advice
Like yourself I’m not applying the specialized decals either just to much
Having dark matt purple decals over the Gloss Black UD.
Also have a Roval decal for the bars
Just a waiting game now :-\
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I have an S-Works SL8—before that, I had the SL7 and the Venge. It’s not as stiff as the Venge that was a harsh ride, but it’s equally stiff as the SL7, just noticeably more comfortable, thanks in part to the skinny rear stays. It’s fast on the flats, but also a great bike for climbing—responsive and snappy.
Anything else you’d like to know?
Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
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Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
I think you guys crossed wires, Sander doesn't have his x68 yet, its on order.
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Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
Gelpore is right! ;D
I thought you meant the real SL8!
I Will give you my thoughts will be a few weeks yet though!
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
Looks amazing bro congrats on the build!
Just wanted to know which size frame is this beauty? your handlebar stem and width?
and which wheelset is this?
Lastly how is the quality of the speedy decals? are they easy to put on?
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
Can we get picture of your build.
Not enough photos on this thread of X68 builds
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Here you go :)
Not the perfect picture, because mid of ride :D
Went with 45mm wheels from Easedon, SRAM Red cranks, and Ztto cassette paired with 11s Ultegra di2.
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Looks amazing bro congrats on the build!
Just wanted to know which size frame is this beauty? your handlebar stem and width?
and which wheelset is this?
Lastly how is the quality of the speedy decals? are they easy to put on?
Its a 49. Saddle height for reference is 67.5. Bars are 110/38. While on that subject, the Rapide is a gorgeous shape, but I'm not sure I like the reach (which is short when I run levers in my preferred up position with a smooth transition from top at bend to lever top-when I try to get forearms on tops not enough reach) or the drop (its a very full drop and I prefer compact). I'm hoping someone clones or comes close to the new Enve integrated bar with the slight rise, I could eliminate a spacer and still be more comfortable.
The wheels are Xiamen Carbon Speed, 50/65, 5mm carbon spokes. 1330g.
Speedy decals are nice, I've used them on a number of projects. Full review of installation a couple posts above. Easy enough if you're not trying to cover an existing logo, which is harder. They will scale the decal up slightly if you're doing that and let them know.
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
Funny, I also have a slight creak under power. Suspect I might not have the lockring tight enough.
I know ztto cassettes get grief on ww and other forums, but my gen 2 12 speed has been great so far, as have several OG 11 speed ones. Yeah, the alu cogs eventually wear but at the price they're great.
Is that a D1 or E1 crank?
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Funny, I also have a slight creak under power. Suspect I might not have the lockring tight enough.
I know ztto cassettes get grief on ww and other forums, but my gen 2 12 speed has been great so far, as have several OG 11 speed ones. Yeah, the alu cogs eventually wear but at the price they're great.
Is that a D1 or E1 crank?
I can exclude the locking of the cassette as it's the same with different wheelsets. Funnily it's only when seated, might be seatpost or saddle. I like the 11s casettes from Ztto all Gen2 really well, they shift quite well and I don't worry about their wear that much. It's the "old" Red crank so should be D1.
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I can exclude the locking of the cassette as it's the same with different wheelsets. Funnily it's only when seated, might be seatpost or saddle. I like the 11s casettes from Ztto all Gen2 really well, they shift quite well and I don't worry about their wear that much. It's the "old" Red crank so should be D1.
I also get creaking/clicking while seated, and it's most likely the seat post clamp against the top tube. It happens while I pedal, so with lateral pressure on the seat post and clamp. I didn't grease the clamp as described in the SL8 manual. I only put carbon paste on the seatpost. I will do it this week and report here if that helped.
In my experience, the creaking and clicking go away after reclamping the seat, and it comes back after a while. I did a 100k ride today, and by the end of the ride, it was creaking/clicking quite a lot. I got home and re-clamped it, and the noise is gone, so the noise is most likely from there.
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Here you go :)
Not the perfect picture, because mid of ride :D
Went with 45mm wheels from Easedon, SRAM Red cranks, and Ztto cassette paired with 11s Ultegra di2.
Good man!
Looks lovely
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I also get creaking/clicking while seated, and it's most likely the seat post clamp against the top tube. It happens while I pedal, so with lateral pressure on the seat post and clamp. I didn't grease the clamp as described in the SL8 manual. I only put carbon paste on the seatpost. I will do it this week and report here if that helped.
In my experience, the creaking and clicking go away after reclamping the seat, and it comes back after a while. I did a 100k ride today, and by the end of the ride, it was creaking/clicking quite a lot. I got home and re-clamped it, and the noise is gone, so the noise is most likely from there.
Yeah, that could well be the culprit. I didn't grease the wedge parts, and only put paste on the seatpost, while the manual calls for paste between the wedge and the bare carbon, which makes sense...
RTFM
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
whoah really? maybe it could have been a mix up from when they were prepping your frameset?
dude, can you link us the 3d printed mount you used and how much was that?
and mind if I ask how tall are you and your weight? are you usually racing cause you went with a narrow handlebar but a long stem eh?
By the way the picture you have posted when you have installed the gold decals, the angle looks quite odd? or is it that you need to tell speedy decals the size of the frame so they can scale it properly or due to the gold color that the decal placement looks different?
Lastly I know I will be castigated for this haha but where could we find that carbon 12r or carbon 10r decal that needs to be near the bottom bracket and the one that goes on the fork too?
sorry for so many questions LOL
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
My Rapides are 40cm outside to outside
Speed decals to the Fact12R decal but as this is so small it is a single decal
Magcad mount I also gave this on my SL8
https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-roval-rapide-mount
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My Rapides are 40cm outside to outside
Speed decals to the Fact12R decal but as this is so small it is a single decal
Magcad mount I also gave this on my SL8
https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-roval-rapide-mount
Hey man thanks so much for linking the magcad computer mount? do you happen to know if there are carbon fiber version of such 3d printed mounts?
And are both decals you have attached from SpeedyDecals or just the one below?
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Hey man thanks so much for linking the magcad computer mount? do you happen to know if there are carbon fiber version of such 3d printed mounts?
And are both decals you have attached from SpeedyDecals or just the one below?
The purple decals are mine I’m having Matt Purple logos on my Gloss UD Carbon frame. Not keen on the Specilaized on the forks and chainstay I’m a less is more guy. My SL8 was repainted this year and I did not have them put back on.
The other decals are from Speedydecals site.
https://speedydecal.com/index.php?controller=search&s=SL8
But if your in the UK I know a Specilaized approved painter you can get decals from I would have ordered from them had I known before I ordered these decals. (Ooey Custom Paint)
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
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I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
Would a barrel nut not do the same job?
Or
Maybe this
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?srsltid=AfmBOopaFTJkUffOKx_O_bIMkixFrMTQwRdr8p_WNhuHQMf665VVdQh3
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whoah really? maybe it could have been a mix up from when they were prepping your frameset?
dude, can you link us the 3d printed mount you used and how much was that?
and mind if I ask how tall are you and your weight? are you usually racing cause you went with a narrow handlebar but a long stem eh?
By the way the picture you have posted when you have installed the gold decals, the angle looks quite odd? or is it that you need to tell speedy decals the size of the frame so they can scale it properly or due to the gold color that the decal placement looks different?
Lastly I know I will be castigated for this haha but where could we find that carbon 12r or carbon 10r decal that needs to be near the bottom bracket and the one that goes on the fork too?
sorry for so many questions LOL
Not a mix up. Specialized measures oddly, its 36.5 center to center on the actual Rapide cockpit. A smidge over 38 outside to outside. 39 c/c in the drops. I'm only 5'5 (165cm). I'm between a 49 and a 52 if I use specialized calculator. I knew in advance what reach I wanted based on many existing bikes and fits, and wanted the smaller frame (partially for vanity-a fair number of my bikes end up with little exposed seatpost), and I knew what stem I'd need to get the bar center where I wanted. I ride 38 bars and have for a long time. Didn't realize the way the Roval bars are measured but in the end its not a big deal, I'm already adapted to them. I would caution that if you think that's a really agressive fit you might think about the geo of the bike generally as its a pretty racy geo overall. I'd be happier with a bar with less stem angle (I really like the new enve with rise) but the cockpit is very nice generally. One thing that made a big difference in how the bike feels is to move the levers to a position that has the hood tips pointing slightly up and the transition from the top of the drop to the lever dead flat. Tantan sets them much lower, and that effectively drops the hoods riding position much lower and isn't as comfortable on the hands.
I don't think the decals look strange IRL, I think the angle that I took the photo from (standing rather than kneeling) may make them look that way. Speedy does scale them to the frame size.
I'm also of the less is more school. No FACT decals, no size decal. I did order the UCI sticker seperately.
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I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
Not sure where you are, but ti parts has the barrel nut for 8 bucks, better bolts has the whole assembly for 15, and the oem wedge is available from any specialized dealer or online retailer (30 usd, or 20 for an ali clone).
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Not sure where you are, but ti parts has the barrel nut for 8 bucks, better bolts has the whole assembly for 15, and the oem wedge is available from any specialized dealer or online retailer (30 usd, or 20 for an ali clone).
I'm in the EU(Czech Republic), so the shipping here would take some time, I guess. Btw, do you mean this (https://tipartstitanium.com/products/titanium-m5-m6-seatpost-saddle-barrel-nut-for-roadbike-mtb-foldie-minivelo-fixie-gravel-bike?variant=45365316190508) part?
To clarify, I snapped this part that is circled on the manual screenshot.
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Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
What kind of grease did you use and where exactly did you apply it?
Thanks
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The purple decals are mine I’m having Matt Purple logos on my Gloss UD Carbon frame. Not keen on the Specilaized on the forks and chainstay I’m a less is more guy. My SL8 was repainted this year and I did not have them put back on.
The other decals are from Speedydecals site.
https://speedydecal.com/index.php?controller=search&s=SL8
But if your in the UK I know a Specilaized approved painter you can get decals from I would have ordered from them had I known before I ordered these decals. (Ooey Custom Paint)
Matt Purple Metallic?
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
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Matt Purple Metallic?
No Just Matt Purple
Think it will contrast well over a gloss frame
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
For my build I am using a DFS Carbon Crank which looks identical to my Cybrei crank on my gen SL8 running a 24mm Titanium axle instead of DUB 29mm only because I already have a bottom bracket spare. Running with XCADEY Power Meter and passquest 53-39T chainring. Same PM as other crank
All was about $500usd.
Other consideration.
Saddle I have a Ryet saddle from Aliexpress
Brake discs I have a couple of sets but may sell
them on as I run Galfer Wave.
Wanting to see without spending a shed load what weight it comes in at.
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I'm in the EU(Czech Republic), so the shipping here would take some time, I guess. Btw, do you mean this (https://tipartstitanium.com/products/titanium-m5-m6-seatpost-saddle-barrel-nut-for-roadbike-mtb-foldie-minivelo-fixie-gravel-bike?variant=45365316190508) part?
To clarify, I snapped this part that is circled on the manual screenshot.
My bad. I was thinking wedge clamp barrel, which is where my creak was. Your part is here:https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAC1tmAvmXujKe6TsjXkigO-Qb7VOj&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JzABhC2ARIsAPe3ynrqfuNXMEo72iD9B4JR5Wa3kr5nMPI2KyfFilBaL-x0uQ8loqnQIYkaArVGEALw_wcB
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What kind of grease did you use and where exactly did you apply it?
Thanks
Generic (Finish Line) bike grease on the two faces of the aluminum wedge that face each other, Park carbon paste on the seatmast and the side of the wedge that rests against the toptube.
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Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
They're reasonably durable cut vinyl. IRRC you can order them in a thin thickness for under clear or a more robust vinyl for over clear. Mine are over clear. I've used them on other builds with success, both ways.
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My bad. I was thinking wedge clamp barrel, which is where my creak was. Your part is here:https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAC1tmAvmXujKe6TsjXkigO-Qb7VOj&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JzABhC2ARIsAPe3ynrqfuNXMEo72iD9B4JR5Wa3kr5nMPI2KyfFilBaL-x0uQ8loqnQIYkaArVGEALw_wcB
Yeah, I found that. I ordered the part from the local specialized service center here, and they said it should arrive sometime next week.
It's the whole assembly like the one you sent here, and just that nut part is not sold separately.
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
A couple things-they ship the frame with the max number of spacers Specialized "allows" on the original and cut the steerer to that length. Not sure you'd want to add more, not sure the steerer tube is designed to have the bars that far up, it puts more leverage on the steerer at the bearing. Investigate further.
Any good bsa bottom bracket will be fine.
Mine shipped with the computer mount and various adaptors stock. I don't like either it or the Specialized one, used a Magcad for wahoo bolt.
Do you run a varia? If so, there's a nice sl8 specific mount on esty that is designed with a shape that matches the post and hidden bolts, its like $30.
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Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
I have a full set of SpeedyDecals on my SL8. Been using them for about a year now, and I've been caught in some nasty summer rainstorms as well as a full winter of riding.
Durability is just fine. No decal peeling and scuffs so far. Obviously you can feel them since the decals are applied above the frame, so i just simply pay careful attention to those areas when wiping down my bike. Highly recommended.
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Awesome paint job.
I ordered two frames, one ud black and one painted, not with a bit so fancy colour.
I'm bad in Photoshop and even worse in explaining stuff to Chinese people, so....
Anyway, paid 4 weeks ago and no proper feedback from Vivian so far.
Asked for a timeline to get the frame shipped and she only sends generic answers.
Frames still not painted after payment made on 5th of march.
No proper feedback from Vivian....starts to angers me.
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if the fork needs a crown race to be installed? When I try and slide on the bearing, it doesn't sit flush so I am curious if a crown race is needed.
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if the fork needs a crown race to be installed? When I try and slide on the bearing, it doesn't sit flush so I am curious if a crown race is needed.
No
Will be same as genuine use SL8 manual
https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/2024_TARMAC_SL8_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH.pdf
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Any good bsa bottom bracket will be fine.
If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
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I have a full set of SpeedyDecals on my SL8. Been using them for about a year now, and I've been caught in some nasty summer rainstorms as well as a full winter of riding.
Durability is just fine. No decal peeling and scuffs so far. Obviously you can feel them since the decals are applied above the frame, so i just simply pay careful attention to those areas when wiping down my bike. Highly recommended.
Hi Patrick,
since you have to paint the frame, do you think it is better to apply them under clear for greater durability and/or less attention during washing?
Thanks
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If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
I've not had issues with Sram BB's but their reputation is less than stellar. But they're cheap.
I used a ceramic BB from Acer, more expensive though. I'm not on DUB but on gxp.
Enduro BB's, Wheels Manufacturing BB's are others I've had good luck with. Token as well...
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If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
My new favorite bottom brackets are the ones from BIKONE . Really good quality and price.
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Hi Patrick,
since you have to paint the frame, do you think it is better to apply them under clear for greater durability and/or less attention during washing?
Thanks
You'll need be very careful when applying the clearcoat over the decals so that clearcoat actually adheres. The decals have a smooth surface. Very light coats to slowly building up the coat so it doesn't run/drip.
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You'll need be very careful when applying the clearcoat over the decals so that clearcoat actually adheres. The decals have a smooth surface. Very light coats to slowly building up the coat so it doesn't run/drip.
I would have a professional painter do the job, so it wouldn't be a problem.
I'm just wondering whether to apply the stickers over or under clear coat...under clear coat I would have greater protection/durability of the stickers, over clear coat I would have the convenience of being able to change them without problems if I decided to change (writing, color or graphics).
Undecided....
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I would have a professional painter do the job, so it wouldn't be a problem.
I'm just wondering whether to apply the stickers over or under clear coat...under clear coat I would have greater protection/durability of the stickers, over clear coat I would have the convenience of being able to change them without problems if I decided to change (writing, color or graphics).
Undecided....
Your painter is happy producing fakes and likes the idea of prison?
If you add the stickers on top, you can sell the bike as a clone by removing them before hand. Otherwise, it's a crime in most jurisdictions, afaik. It's still cringe and illegal, but at least you can play it down because the stickers are removable.
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Your painter is happy producing fakes and likes the idea of prison?
If you add the stickers on top, you can sell the bike as a clone by removing them before hand. Otherwise, it's a crime in most jurisdictions, afaik. It's still cringe and illegal, but at least you can play it down because the stickers are removable.
He's not going to prison. He might get a letter from a Specialized atty and have to disgorge his profits (LOL) , but trademark violation isn't a CRIME. And doing one bike isn't like being Taiwan Eissen.
I get that you cringe. But don't overblow it. And its not really malum in se to possess an item that violates patent or trademark. It is however civilly prohibited to produce same.
And yes, the reason I went with decals over clear is that they're removable and if I ever sell the bike, it would be without stickers and as an x68.
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Your painter is happy producing fakes and likes the idea of prison?
If you add the stickers on top, you can sell the bike as a clone by removing them before hand. Otherwise, it's a crime in most jurisdictions, afaik. It's still cringe and illegal, but at least you can play it down because the stickers are removable.
come on don't drink too much wine
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My confidence in tan tan is going south, 6 weeks since payment and frame not painted yet
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My confidence in tan tan ISU going south, 6 weeks since payment and frame not painted yet
You’ll get the frame eventually.
Unfortunately, I don’t think communication is Tan Tan’s strong point, judging by this thread.
They throw out 20–25 day manufacturing times (not including delivery), but 25 days for me is this Friday—and based on what I’m seeing, I’d be surprised if it’s even ready to ship.
They really should be more upfront about lead times. I think people would still buy the frame even with a longer wait, as long as expectations were clear.
I fully expect it to take longer than quoted, so it’s no big deal—but honesty would go a long way.
I appreciate it’s not what you want to hear, but it’s the truth. I think one guy waited 90 days including delivery—though that might be an extreme case, as some people have received theirs more quickly.
From what I gather, it’s the paint that causes most of the delay. I was quoted just 7–10 days for a raw frame.
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I'm the 90 day guy. I'm giving them credit for the New Year and the backlog that may have created. But I think that there is a bottleneck somewhere, either because they're outsourcing the construction of the frame or their paint shop is forever backlogged.
Realistically, I think you're looking at 45-60 days from payment to release from paint, and then shipping time (which was over 20 days to USA, but I got held up on the Asian end for customs outbound inspection).
The communication after payment and prior to shipment remained cordial but less energetic than prior to payment.
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Feedback from Vivian just now, about my order (ordered19th march)
"The frame is finished.
Waiting for warehouse processing and packaging.
I'll take a picture for you this afternoon.
Very busy.
The warehouse has not had time to process it yet."
Light in a tunnel... :P
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Did you use the special mount provided with the frame ? It looks like this :
https://www.bikegarage.cc/components/front-brake-adapter/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001-36
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Did you use the special mount provided with the frame ? It looks like this :
https://www.bikegarage.cc/components/front-brake-adapter/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001-36
Yeah, ended up running old ultegra 11 speed calipers on ltwoo.
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Looks great
But I wish they would not paint over the edges of the BB
Just means it have to be faced
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Its not ltwoo. Its Specialized. Much discussion in this thread if you look a few pages back. Aetheos and SL8 (and this clone) have unique bolt spacing in the front that requires the use of a 160 rotor and the adapter that is unique to the frame, not another manufacturer's (whether that be ltwoo or Shimano or...). Standard spacing of the bolt mounts throughout the industry is 70mm, the SL8's is 60 mm, supposedly to allow for less material and some weight savings. So the front mount is unique, and requires an adapter. It also makes 140 front impossible.
I'm not familiar with ltwoo, but if their front caliper is designed to direct mount to the fork and run a 160 rotor, that's the same as Campagnolo's front setup, which doesn't work on an Sl8. The solution is to use a rear caliper mounted to the Specialized/tantan mount in the front. Any mineral oil caliper designed for 140 for work if you use the correct barb and olive. I'm about to swap over to Campy calipers on my build to save some weight, will run dual Ekar rear calipers front and rear.
The folks making this frame should make this clear-hell, tantan specs it as 140/140, which is impossible, and they ship built bikes 160/160.
Edit-dug around, yeah, ltwoo uses unique spacing on their caliper which won't work with sl8/x68. Need to source shimano/zrace or wheeltop caliper.
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He's not going to prison. He might get a letter from a Specialized atty and have to disgorge his profits (LOL) , but trademark violation isn't a CRIME. And doing one bike isn't like being Taiwan Eissen.
I get that you cringe. But don't overblow it. And its not really malum in se to possess an item that violates patent or trademark. It is however civilly prohibited to produce same.
And yes, the reason I went with decals over clear is that they're removable and if I ever sell the bike, it would be without stickers and as an x68.
I'm not a lawyer, and fundamentally, taking a step back, i dont care, and i dislike Specialized.
But i feel the forum has been normalizing illegal activities in recent months, and i dont like it. It used to be that OEM was good, clones were ok, and fakes were bad, but this seems to have shifted a fair bit.
Afaik, producing counterfeits is a crime known as counterfeiting, and a lawyer would probably argue that a professional painter that professionally paints Specialized logos on SL8 copies is in fact producing counterfeits. And i'd agree.
As to prison, it's semantics, arguably, but i did speak with chinese sellers of fakes and some of their answers were along the lines "i dont want to reply because what i do is illegal and i dont want to go to prison if i get caught".
So then, you might argue that painting one frame isnt the same as making 100 frames, but it's a bit beyond the point: it's still completely illegal, to my best knowledge, and a professional isn't supposed to happily do illegal stuff.
Law is black, white, and shades of grey. This looks like very dark shades of grey to me.
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
how tall are you? How high do you take the saddle?
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I'm not a lawyer,
and luckily
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Law is black, white, and shades of grey. This looks like very dark shades of grey to me.
This is correct. For the sake of completeness, it is worth noting that this problem extends far beyond 1:1 copies of designs. If one were, for instance, to produce "funny" designs such as "Assworks", "Tractor" or similar, resembling the original style, this would constitute different shades of grey depending on the specific style and your jurisdiction.
Especially, if the aesthetics are so close to original brand’s that someone might confuse the two, even briefly, trade dress laws/copyright/design patents/registered designs are almost certainly infringed - stay careful out there people!
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
Ok so you have to wait around 60days!
Jeez and they are quoting 20-25
So the BB is actually faced as well as the brake mounts?
Hmmmm looking at photos from user posts the BB shell does not appear to be faced
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
Dang. This is the exact type of X68 build I personally love to see in here as an SL8 owner. And would order. Top notch components, wheels, and both the frame and cockpit is my size too. Curious where on AliExpress you got the cockpit from.
So I've done 6 crit races this year thus far myself. Getting back into this area of cycling has been exhilarating, but far far away from being a Cat 1 though. Your opinion on the overall bike will be super valuable.
I'm actually on the verge of selling off both my Propel and SL8. Turns out my Tavelo Arow has been perfect for crits. But if the X68 turns out to be solid, even 8/10th of a genuine SL8, then it's something I'll stronger consider for a backup bike. Been chatting with TanTan about getting a frame anyway. Truthfully though I'm pretty sure it would be tough to tell the X68 and SL8 apart with an indentical setup.
Thanks for sharing.
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So a bit of a ride review after 4 or 5 25-35 mi rides. By way of background, I've been riding quality bikes for 35 years, and have had during that time high end steel, titanium and carbon bikes. Current stable, other than some vintage steel stuff, is a Serotta Ottrott and a custom ti bike. My most recent carbon bikes were a Cento Air Willier, Supersix Evo (pre the aero change) and a custom Berk. I'm small, lightish and have am older with an ftp thats low but appropriate to age and weight.
The x68 is smooth, responsive and agile. It tracks well. We've had some big wind here the last month, and I can attest that combined with the wide carbonspeed wheels it is crosswind stable. It does get pushed a bit, but it doesn't snap in and out of yaw like I'm used to with less modern deep carbon wheels. Like an actual sl8, it likes you to get weight a bit forward on twisty high speed descents-its not twitchy but you do feel more secure if you shift weight forward a bit.
Combo of 30-32 (nominally 30, measured 32) Vittorias and the compliance of the bike make it ride very well for a carbon racebike. Does it feel plush? Not if your viewpoint is a ti or steel bike, for an agressive carbon bike its very nice. Over single bumps and cracks its very comfy. I did notice that over "broken" areas of pavement wit high frequency hits the bike does slightly betray its responsiveness and agility with a little rear end chatter, but nothing serious. The front end of the bike is not as plush as the rear, but it does, to me anyway, seem on a par with or even a little plusher than the bikes I've had with Enve carbon forks for example.
With brand new calipers pads and rotors I could generate a tiny bit of brake noise when climbing hard standing, but that seems to be going away a bit as everything settles in.
Leaving aside for a moment how close it is to an sl8, its a helluva deal for what tantan is charging. And if the actual sl8 is all that much better, it must be on another planet.
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Dang. This is the exact type of X68 build I personally love to see in here as an SL8 owner. And would order. Top notch components, wheels, and both the frame and cockpit is my size too. Curious where on AliExpress you got the cockpit from.
So I've done 6 crit races this year thus far myself. Getting back into this area of cycling has been exhilarating, but far far away from being a Cat 1 though. Your opinion on the overall bike will be super valuable.
I'm actually on the verge of selling off both my Propel and SL8. Turns out my Tavelo Arow has been perfect for crits. But if the X68 turns out to be solid, even 8/10th of a genuine SL8, then it's something I'll stronger consider for a backup bike. Been chatting with TanTan about getting a frame anyway. Truthfully though I'm pretty sure it would be tough to tell the X68 and SL8 apart with an indentical setup.
Thanks for sharing.
Here is the cockpit I ordered. No issues with it, super stiff and decently light.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806705683523.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.69d41802ewUKHH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Today is day 25 so surly the frame is ready!
And alas no surprise
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my frame is sent ;D ;D so in my case lead time was 27 days
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By the time all the forum reviews start rolling in, and when you account for the 60-90 day turn around time, people will be ordering their frames in early June. And won't receive them till fall LoL
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
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FINALLY ... my frame is ready to ship.
But tantan did a mistake and painted a second frame which I ordered in UD matt also in my colorsheme.
In case someone from GERMANY is interested -> Size 52, painted as shown all incl. 685 Euros shipped incl. tax!
(https://i.ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf/IMG-2310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf) (https://i.ibb.co/RGrLLX8M/IMG-2311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RGrLLX8M) (https://i.ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf/IMG-2312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf) (https://i.ibb.co/TBVnqMj6/IMG-2313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TBVnqMj6) (https://i.ibb.co/nM508KzM/IMG-2314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nM508KzM)
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
hi, but what is your saddle height? saddle/handlebar height difference? thanks
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
Yep that's how I put mine together
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my frame is sent ;D ;D so in my case lead time was 27 days
But bad when did you order yours then and what finish have you chosen?
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
Same as genuine and the SL7 and the Venge
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I must be either doing something wrong or i’m just out of luck..
My seat post cracked where you insert the rear saddle bolt. I’m not sure how this can happen but i never used anything else besides torque wrench set to 6.1nm to tighten it.
I got a replacement saddle nut that i stripped (posted about it earlier) and when installing it today i heard silent cracking while tightening the bolt, stop tightening it and saw this. I think i never got even over 4nm on there. It might have been compromised by that bolt stripping earlier but i’m not really sure about it.
Wrote to tantan about a new seat post, i don’t know if they will send it to me or i’ll have to buy it but i’m out of riding the bike and i don’t know how confident i will be riding when and if i get the replacement.
Not saying there is anything wrong with the frame and everything else just posting my experience so far.. The bike was otherwise superb while riding it.
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Happened to me on a BMC, same issue.
I have professional, calibrated and fucking expensive torque wrenches, but I'm not willing to apply the advised Nm on delicate points like same clam, seatpost clamp and steerer any longer.
Torque the same clamp by hand and don't use force, you'll here it while riding on car it's too loose
Check shortlistings for a SL8 seatpost, a lot of people are seeking them cause they install a Darimo
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Man, bad luck.
I'd try tantan. IDK whether an actual Specialized post fits, but guess is it does. They're on a number of sites like ebay and FBM as folks buy zero offset or Darimo. Or Hylix is well thought of.
As to other question about lower race, a ton of bikes these days use races molded into the fork.
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The SPcycle R088 uses the same SL8 seat post. Now I regret not buying a spare when they were $65 USD on AliExpress. Now prices have shot up for US customers. Now I have to be extra careful. :-[
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But bad when did you order yours then and what finish have you chosen?
As posted page earlier - chameleon white painting and ordered 19th march
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As posted page earlier - chameleon white painting and ordered 19th march
Thanks appreciate you maybe have only posted earlier on!
Someone cannot keep up with all the posts and threads!
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My frameset arrived last week, ordered end of february. Carbon and paint quality so far so good except the fork shaft. In the section of the hole for internal brake hose routing is a dent/bump, which I have never seen before at other forks (hopefully possible to see in the pictures). I thought I could be normal, that the brake hose don‘t kink as easy as normal without this dent.
Could someone share his experience who already received this TanTan frameset? Is it normal or do I have bad luck with my fork and it is a Carbon/molding issue?
Thanks for your help.
Stay tuned for my full Build Review.
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Here are the pictures of the dent in the fork shaft.
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And another one.
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FINALLY ... my frame is ready to ship.
But tantan did a mistake and painted a second frame which I ordered in UD matt also in my colorsheme.
In case someone from GERMANY is interested -> Size 52, painted as shown all incl. 685 Euros shipped incl. tax!
(https://i.ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf/IMG-2310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf) (https://i.ibb.co/RGrLLX8M/IMG-2311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RGrLLX8M) (https://i.ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf/IMG-2312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf) (https://i.ibb.co/TBVnqMj6/IMG-2313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TBVnqMj6) (https://i.ibb.co/nM508KzM/IMG-2314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nM508KzM)
Anyone?
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Anyone?
Surely they can keep the incorrect frame and you get what you asked for?
Although you will likely have to wait
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Anyone?
Do you really expect to find someone from Germany, at this price, at this size, with this paint job, in that time frame? Did you get the paint job for free by agreeing to have their logo on the frame?
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I had to pay for my paintjob (100 dollar)
Tantan painted both by accident, so they offered to skip the fee for it and aso a 20 dollar discount.
Given that the frame would be 569 dollar paintfed + 100 dollar shipping (i paid 200 for shipping 2 in 1 box)
I would not earn $1 on it, so if no one is interested I just tell Antonia that they have to ship a UD unpainted frame size 52 just as agreed
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I had to pay for my paintjob (100 dollar)
Tantan painted both by accident, so they offered to skip the fee for it and aso a 20 dollar discount.
Given that the frame would be 569 dollar paintfed + 100 dollar shipping (i paid 200 for shipping 2 in 1 box)
I would not earn $1 on it, so if no one is interested I just tell Antonia that they have to ship a UD unpainted frame size 52 just as agreed
You might be lucky and sell it.
But essentially, what you have is an SL8 with another company’s decals, which could make it a harder sell.
Custom paint is also a divisive topic — it won’t be to everyone’s taste.
Any time I choose a custom paint scheme, I always consider resale value as part of the decision.
It’s Tan Tan fuck up and should be there problem not yours I would personally wait and get what I ordered
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
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Yes, not my fault, order was clear and got confirmed.
Will insist on a UD frame.
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.
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Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.
Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast :D
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.
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Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast :D
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.
The $40 for the new seatpost seems fair so that good news.
I will press for the installation instructions myself and see what they say, once I get confirmation that the frame is finished, I’ll update everyone.
As with my Venge, SL7, and SL8 builds, I won’t be using the supplied expander plug — I’ll fit a Carbon-Ti or Extralite expander instead.
I’ve already sourced some titanium bolt upgrades and a replacement front brake mount, as I’m aiming for a budget Weight Weenie build.
For smaller titanium parts like the seatpost wedge and seat clamp bolts, I’m using TAIMELI via AliExpress — they offer the same quality as TiParts Titanium but at a much better price.
And possibly Ti Thru axles if I can get a good price on Aliexpress also or maybe use my Overfast Axles and upgrade to TiMaster of the gen SL8, decisions decisions.
I’ll check if my Darimo post from the SL8 fits out of interest
I’ll likely use the supplied post, cut it down, and swap the fitting and cradle to save weight.
Trying my best to keep this build budget!
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
The reference is matte right?
(The specialized model)
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
I'd personally just make that bolt firmly tight. I disassembled my post to grease those surfaces and it is annoying to put back together, and I understand how you stripped that lower fastener-neither are easy to align, particularly when everything is greased. You may have damaged the post in the initial stripping. But 6nm on that fastener seems unnecessasary.
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I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).
I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.
Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?
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I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).
I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.
Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?
Bike looks great!
Sounds like a smooth build overall. Interesting to hear this is the second time Tan Tan has sent the wrong paint finish—did they provide any confirmation photos before shipping, or offer any kind of compensation for the mistake?
Also, when did you place your order, and how long did delivery take?
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Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025
Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).
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Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025
Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).
Your problem with the freehub is due to bad tolerances.
When you are torquing the axle you are making contact between the freehub body and the hub body.
I guess you have to add shims between the inner race of the freehub and the inner race of the wheel bearing.
Check ebay for shims, easiest way.
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
Does everything work ok with the original serenade freehub ? If yes I assume the DT Swiss freehub is not a 100% compatible part (even though they say it is) as it's from a third party wheel.
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Got the Text this morning from Vivian :D
Frame is ready to be shipped so a total of 21 Working days from order.
54cm Frame coming in at a respectable 792g
Just need to get some more parts on the build list.
Now lets hope the shipping is not too slow!
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Does everything work ok with the original serenade freehub ? If yes I assume the DT Swiss freehub is not a 100% compatible part (even though they say it is) as it's from a third party wheel.
https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=pa%C3%9Fscheiben&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313
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My frame arrived today. Build quality is very good. All faced nicely. Size 54 matte black 799 grams. Will mount it in the next days.
Handlebar 100x380mm weights 340 gr.
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My frame arrived today. Build quality is very good. All faced nicely. Size 54 matte black 799 grams. Will mount it in the next days.
Handlebar 100x380mm weights 340 gr.
Good to hear tix92
And the bars are pretty much the same weight as the real thing
Looking forward to you build!
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Your problem with the freehub is due to bad tolerances.
When you are torquing the axle you are making contact between the freehub body and the hub body.
I guess you have to add shims between the inner race of the freehub and the inner race of the wheel bearing.
Check ebay for shims, easiest way.
Thanks for all your help! I turned a new spacer which is 0,2 mm longer - problem solved! Everything works fine now.
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
Quick update. I've been on some longer rides and I really enjoy the bike. It is super comfy and exactly what I was looking for to do longer endurance rides and climb heavy road races. I definitely do notice that it is not as stiff as my Winspace when sprinting. Probably losing some watts so I will definitely be sticking with my Winspace for crits ;). One additional thing to note about the rapide cockpit from aliexpress; the computer mount nut that is in the handlebar is crap. It will loosen and eventually come out of the handlebar. I almost gave up on it and ordered another solution, but I was able to use needle nose tweezers to squeeze in a much bigger wing style nut into the handlebar to properly hold my computer mount. Something to note, so I would advise against ordering those bars unless you really feel like tinkering around with nuts and bolts.
Picture of my Winspace for fun ;D
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
That's about the size of the gap I have on mine. Could probably be reduced with the genuine roval spacers
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
This issue has actually been discussed at length on the Weight Weenies forum regarding the genuine SL8 as well. It looks like the bottom of the transition spacer isn’t perfectly flat — it dips at the front and ends up rubbing against the top tube.
You could try lightly sanding it down using fine sandpaper on a flat surface to level it out, or alternatively, order a set of genuine spacers and see if that resolves it.
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This issue has actually been discussed at length on the Weight Weenies forum regarding the genuine SL8 as well. It looks like the bottom of the transition spacer isn’t perfectly flat — it dips at the front and ends up rubbing against the top tube.
You could try lightly sanding it down using fine sandpaper on a flat surface to level it out, or alternatively, order a set of genuine spacers and see if that resolves it.
This is exactly what I did with my frame, size 56 (but mine is from Taiwaneisen and you might think it is different…)
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Quick update. I've been on some longer rides and I really enjoy the bike. It is super comfy and exactly what I was looking for to do longer endurance rides and climb heavy road races. I definitely do notice that it is not as stiff as my Winspace when sprinting. Probably losing some watts so I will definitely be sticking with my Winspace for crits ;). One additional thing to note about the rapide cockpit from aliexpress; the computer mount nut that is in the handlebar is crap. It will loosen and eventually come out of the handlebar. I almost gave up on it and ordered another solution, but I was able to use needle nose tweezers to squeeze in a much bigger wing style nut into the handlebar to properly hold my computer mount. Something to note, so I would advise against ordering those bars unless you really feel like tinkering around with nuts and bolts.
Picture of my Winspace for fun ;D
The computer mount nut gets a lot of mentions. The one from tantan seems secure. I'm running a magcad and wahoo bolt, so the lever arm is much shorter and the mount is lighter with greater bar contact than the roval clone.
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Most of my wish list items on Ali Express either no longer ship to the USA or the link has been removed altogether.
Can't even find the ones @greengoblinbean posted anymore ;D
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Most of my wish list items on Ali Express either no longer ship to the USA or the link has been removed altogether.
Can't even find the ones @greengoblinbean posted anymore ;D
Wow you're right! Even in my order history I click the link and it's not there. Guess I got lucky as these only set me back $80 and the handlebar itself is actually great quality. Reason I went with these is because Tan-Tan's max stem length is 120 which wasn't adequate for me.
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Can someone post the exact size of the axles, pls.
Want to order a set of titanium one.
Thx
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The bars at the Aliexpress link posted by @greengoblinbean are still available to me. I'm in the UK though so it does look like Aliexpress sellers are removing the links to products for US based customers.
Those bars are currently 92 GBP for me (roughly 120 USD) so at 80 USD, they were a great deal.
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Can someone post the exact size of the axles, pls.
Want to order a set of titanium one.
Thx
I assumed the X68 thru axles were the same as the Gen SL8 which are 47grams.
Axles are one thing I have not purchased for my build yet along with seatpost hardware swaps.
I have a genuine spare set.
I have seen Chaser Titanium ones available for UK for £77 on Ali Express and they are 36.8g without hardware so not a huge saving.
Heppe ones on Ali Express I cannot find the right length but they are heavier anyway.
Have you been eying up any thru axles?
Gen Rear
142x12mm rear hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 165mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
Gen Front
100x12mm front hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 121mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
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I bought the Chasers. They're nice, but the allen key only goes in the side with threads, annoying to install.
I believe the tan tan ones are around the weight of the originals, I'll post the weight shortly.
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I bought the Chasers. They're nice, but the allen key only goes in the side with threads, annoying to install.
I believe the tan tan ones are around the weight of the originals, I'll post the weight shortly.
Ok thanks
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Thanks!
The Chaser are too expensive to be not a great weight saving, IMHO.
Thought about this ones, but they have 1.5 pitch, so not fitting
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008654728365.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.9.5a2d215doBO4do&algo_pvid=d3bc6bd6-36cf-40ff-8e06-c3577a4f44e9&algo_exp_id=d3bc6bd6-36cf-40ff-8e06-c3577a4f44e9-8&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2210%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2129.79%2121.79%21%21%21238.32%21174.32%21%40211b619a17461884136564203ef641%2112000046112311182%21sea%21DE%216344605730%21ABX&curPageLogUid=sEC8wLiQgeHK&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Gen Rear
142x12mm rear hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 165mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
Thread length?
Thanks
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Tantan's weigh 59 grams, so a bit heavier than Specialized.
Chaser's are a decent savings over them.
I looked around on ali for a bit and didn't see anything lighter than the stock Specialized until you stepped up to Chaser, and beyond that to Overfast and some of the other really pricy skewers.
Thread length is 13mm both front and rear.
Report back if you find anything under 40g.
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Thread length?
Thanks
Hmmmm I cannot find online the measurements
And I’m away at the moment and cannot measure the one is have but typically from memory and look at pictures it’s 12mm.
I have just literally ordered Sixweel Thru Axles €150 26-28grams will put these on my SL8 and use the Overfast on my X68.
Evan Wang who owns Sixweel brand is also planning Thru Axles under his Ti Master brand as well these will be even lighter! But around €350!
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Hi there,
unfortunately I have to warn everyone on the quality of the fork. Two hours ago I started on my friday routine route and under some braking with the front-brake in front of a crossing the fork imploded. Apart from some minor scratches I'm okay, but the bike took some hits while going over the handlebar... I was super satisfied with the riding quality of the bike so far, but I was not braking hard and just going under 25 kph before the crossing...
Let's see how TanTan will handle this...
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Yikes,
Glad you’re okay
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Oh jeez! You have me worried now. No prior crashes or major bumps against the fork?
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It sheared at the caliper mounting location?
As an aside, I know folks hate to resize photos but large photos are hard to view on a smallish screen-think laptop...
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Oh jeez! You have me worried now. No prior crashes or major bumps against the fork?
Nope, no bump and no crash. I really took good care of it and I've ridden it just for a bit under 150 km...
It sheared at the caliper mounting location?
See below and resized ;) I remember it first cracked on the left above the caliper. The thickness of the material in this section is really thin...
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Happy to hear you are safe.
Just so I understand more clearly. You were braking and the fork snapped near the caliper under load?
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The $40 for the new seatpost seems fair so that good news.
I will press for the installation instructions myself and see what they say, once I get confirmation that the frame is finished, I’ll update everyone.
As with my Venge, SL7, and SL8 builds, I won’t be using the supplied expander plug — I’ll fit a Carbon-Ti or Extralite expander instead.
I’ll check if my Darimo post from the SL8 fits out of interest
I’ll likely use the supplied post, cut it down, and swap the fitting and cradle to save weight.
Trying my best to keep this build budget!
I've got a carbon cradle here, its a couple grams lighter, not sure if its worth the trouble. Are you going to use yokes instead of the alu top piece?
Have a couple extralight expanders here, know folks use them, but there must be a reason Specialized uses the overbuilt one, likely liability if a failure.
As to a manual, there's an early post here where someone was told to use the sl8 manual.
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Happy to hear you are safe.
Just so I understand more clearly. You were braking and the fork snapped near the caliper under load?
Yes, I was approaching a smaller crossing and used the front brake to slow down (I guess right before left rule is used on most countries :D ) and then it snapped couple of centimeters over the caliper.
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Looks like it's right where the brake hose enters the fork. I'm looking at mine and pressing it and it seems very strong/sturdy. Definitely nerve-racking though...
I guess another benefit of ordering a raw carbon frame is you can look at the weaves and maybe pick up on carbon failure earlier
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That's concerning for sure.
The fork is thin there, its part of the reason specialized uses the unique narrow flat mount spacing on the sl8, to reduce the area reinforced for the mounts.
Looks like a straight up failure, given no issues with the other fork leg.
You'd be surprised how frequently forks get damage by foreign objects without the rider being aware, but its almost 100% damage to both legs (handled a few legal cases involving forks when still working).
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Hold a sec, looking again, there IS damage to the other fork leg higher up?
Can you say with any certainty that that was the result of the impact and not occurring at the same time as the other failure?
Not to cross examine you, but...have had experience with a few of these over the years.
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Hold a sec, looking again, there IS damage to the other fork leg higher up?
Can you say with any certainty that that was the result of the impact and not occurring at the same time as the other failure?
Not to cross examine you, but...have had experience with a few of these over the years.
The fork was fine on both sides when I started. When I approached the crossing it definitely felt like the left side snapped first under breaking. I took a "dive" and fell over the handlebar. I think the right arm cracked due to my weight going over the handlebar and having no support from the other side. I just had a look at the point where the hydraulic hose comes out of the fork and the material is not "bonded" but more separate layers. Anyway, I hope TanTan will find a good solution. The ride feel on this TT-X68 was very good.
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The fork was fine on both sides when I started. When I approached the crossing it definitely felt like the left side snapped first under breaking. I took a "dive" and fell over the handlebar. I think the right arm cracked due to my weight going over the handlebar and having no support from the other side. I just had a look at the point where the hydraulic hose comes out of the fork and the material is not "bonded" but more separate layers. Anyway, I hope TanTan will find a good solution. The ride feel on this TT-X68 was very good.
Glad you're OK and props to you for keeping trust in riding this frame. I'd never be able to do so... and you can see in my other comments that I privilege assistance quality above anything else. Of course this is likely an isolated case, but on a personal ground would look elsewhere :)
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Hmm, sounds like either the prepreg was contaminated or some other process failure...
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Holy moly! Glad you are ok! That must have been very scary! Luckely you werent going 60kmh downhill!
This incident could have a big impact on the sales of this frame
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I've got a carbon cradle here, its a couple grams lighter, not sure if its worth the trouble. Are you going to use yokes instead of the alu top piece?
Have a couple extralight expanders here, know folks use them, but there must be a reason Specialized uses the overbuilt one, likely liability if a failure.
As to a manual, there's an early post here where someone was told to use the sl8 manual.
Yes plan to swap the cradle, yokes and bolts for Ti but will have a look into
It when I receive this.
Well there was one failure that done the rounds on the old SL7 so they made the change as the SL7 s compression ring was steel the SL8s is now plastic so think the likley hood is less likely
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Let us know the answer of Tantan.
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Nope, no bump and no crash. I really took good care of it and I've ridden it just for a bit under 150 km...
See below and resized ;) I remember it first cracked on the left above the caliper. The thickness of the material in this section is really thin...
Jeez!
That’s not good at all — but the main thing is you’re okay!
Like someone else said, it’ll be interesting to see how TanTan handles this and, just as importantly, what actually caused the carbon failure on the X68.
Definitely not a great situation for you, but hopefully it’s just an isolated incident
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Given the intransigent communication regarding delivery dates and issues on supply side, I'm assuming that tantan is not producing the frame in-house so they might be not fully aware of quality control situation.
Normally the snakes fork has to be analyzed by a quality technician or surveyor to estimate the risk for ruining production.
Just my 2 cents as an automotive engineer
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Given the intransigent communication regarding delivery dates and issues on supply side, I'm assuming that tantan is not producing the frame in-house so they might be not fully aware of quality control situation.
Normally the snakes fork has to be analyzed by a quality technician or surveyor to estimate the risk for ruining production.
Just my 2 cents as an automotive engineer
Appreciate your input — and that makes a lot of sense, especially given your background.
The lack of clarity around delivery delays already raised questions, so your point about TanTan possibly outsourcing production adds another layer. If they aren’t closely tied into the manufacturing side, it could explain both the communication issues and potential gaps in QC.
A carbon fork failure is serious — it’s not just a warranty issue, it’s a safety one. The real question is whether this will actually be properly assessed or if TanTan will just send out a replacement fork and consider the matter closed. Since they’re not a Western brand, the approach might be very different from what we’d expect from companies like Specialized — where something like this could trigger a full investigation, order holds, recalls, and checks across the board.
That said, I know some forum members have been receiving their TanTan frames since late last year, and aside from a few minor issues, things have generally been fine. Hopefully this really is just an unfortunate, isolated case.
Let’s see if TanTan actually honours their “warranty” — and how seriously they treat the implications.
Well, I’ll definitely be giving the fork a good inspection when mine arrives — adding pressure around that area, doing some flexing and squeezing, just to see if anything feels off. Better safe than sorry.
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My contact in China said there's no way some of these vendors are building these frames in-house. Carbon molds are expensive ASF, so there's a good chance TanTan is sourcing the X68 elsewhere.
Also it's worth noting the SPCycle R088 frameset which is also an SL8 derived clone uses and entirely different fork (and head tube design). It makes me wonder if they did so because of potential issues copying the SL8 1:1?
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Also it's worth noting the SPCycle R088 frameset which is also an SL8 derived clone uses and entirely different fork (and head tube design). It makes me wonder if they did so because of potential issues copying the SL8 1:1?
Could be, or could just be they didn't want to be limited in caliper selection given the unique nature of the sl8's flat mount spacing.
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Hi there,
unfortunately I have to warn everyone on the quality of the fork. Two hours ago I started on my friday routine route and under some braking with the front-brake in front of a crossing the fork imploded. Apart from some minor scratches I'm okay, but the bike took some hits while going over the handlebar... I was super satisfied with the riding quality of the bike so far, but I was not braking hard and just going under 25 kph before the crossing...
Let's see how TanTan will handle this...
It looks like there's no epoxy in this fork. The strands of fiber look dry, dont they? The level of incompetence needed for such a failure at such low speed is enormous. It's not like you're 90kg riding at 90kmh and hit a cat sized pothole.
When i was looking at which OEMs to have on my white list, i never put tantan because stories like this one keep popping up. On this forum, there are a LOT of horror stories about tantan. And i can't figure out if it's because they suck, or because they're so big that it's unavoidable to have issues sometimes. This incident makes me lean towards the "they suck" more. Either way, no bum bum tam tam for me.
If you plan to keep riding this frame, I tip my hat to you, you're a brave man.
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It looks like there's no epoxy in this fork. The strands of fiber look dry, dont they? The level of incompetence needed for such a failure at such low speed is enormous. It's not like you're 90kg riding at 90kmh and hit a cat sized pothole.
When i was looking at which OEMs to have on my white list, i never put tantan because stories like this one keep popping up. On this forum, there are a LOT of horror stories about tantan. And i can't figure out if it's because they suck, or because they're so big that it's unavoidable to have issues sometimes. This incident makes me lean towards the "they suck" more. Either way, no bum bum tam tam for me.
If you plan to keep riding this frame, I tip my hat to you, you're a brave man.
Yeah; this makes me very happy that I opted for the r088. After seeing this I would never buy this the X68; I value my life too much for that.
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Yeah; this makes me very happy that I opted for the r088. After seeing this I would never buy this the X68; I value my life too much for that.
What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
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An AI report on this issue:
Fork Failure – Likely Root Cause Analysis (Assuming Third-Party Supplier Used by TanTan)
Following the failure pictured in this thread, I’ve examined both sides of the fork and would like to contribute a technical breakdown of likely causes. Based on the images and common carbon manufacturing practices, the failure appears to have originated internally and propagated rapidly under load — not due to external impact.
Key Observations:
• The failure occurred at the crown-leg junction — a known high-stress area during braking and compression.
• On the opposite leg, there’s clear evidence of buckling and laminate rupture, indicating a structural collapse rather than an isolated crack.
• The fractured edge shows signs of dry fiber and fraying, typical of resin starvation or poor resin impregnation.
• There’s no sign of crash damage, deep abrasions, or tire rub that might indicate impact-induced failure.
Most Likely Root Causes:
1. Resin Starvation or Poor Wet-Out
Some of the fractured zones appear to lack sufficient resin, which compromises fiber cohesion and structural strength. This is often due to inconsistent layup, inadequate vacuum pressure, or issues in resin application.
2. Delamination Due to Poor Layer Bonding
The visible peeling and frayed laminate suggest layers may have separated under stress. This can result from under-curing, improper consolidation, or temperature control issues during manufacture.
3. Crown-Leg Transition Weakness
This area is often difficult to mold uniformly, especially on molds reused heavily or not maintained correctly. Stress concentrations here would exploit any weakness in fiber orientation or bonding.
4. Manufacturing Quality Control Lapse
If TanTan uses a third-party frame/fork supplier (as is often the case), inconsistent quality control in the supply chain could allow defects like this to pass undetected — especially in lower-cost carbon production environments.
Additional Thoughts:
• This failure should not occur under normal riding loads, and it highlights the importance of proper QC, layup integrity, and resin content.
• If this was a one-off, it’s unfortunate. If others have similar forks, it might be worth proactively inspecting the crown-leg junction — particularly for signs of surface distortion or laminate stress.
• A post-failure ultrasonic or CT inspection would confirm voids or resin-poor zones, but visually this already looks like catastrophic laminate failure due to internal defects.
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What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
It uses a different fork
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This is really scary. I'm honestly beginning to regret my decision to purchase this frameset. Also, considering that my seat post cracked (most likely my fault, but anyway), seeing now this fork explode like this doesn't give me more confidence. Maybe Spcycle R088 would have been a better choice. Let's hope that this is a one-off..
By the way, what makes you think Tanan is completely outsourcing the production of this frame? Would it make sense to outsource something you can make in your own factory?
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What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
As mentioned, different fork, different head tube design, bigger headset bearings, etc. It's not trying to be a 1:1 SL8 copy in exchange for a more standardized and less proprietary design.
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Aren't tantan, seraph, spcycle all the same mob ?
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An AI report on this issue:
Fork Failure – Likely Root Cause Analysis (Assuming Third-Party Supplier Used by TanTan)
Following the failure pictured in this thread, I’ve examined both sides of the fork and would like to contribute a technical breakdown of likely causes. Based on the images and common carbon manufacturing practices, the failure appears to have originated internally and propagated rapidly under load — not due to external impact.
Key Observations:
• The failure occurred at the crown-leg junction — a known high-stress area during braking and compression.
• On the opposite leg, there’s clear evidence of buckling and laminate rupture, indicating a structural collapse rather than an isolated crack.
• The fractured edge shows signs of dry fiber and fraying, typical of resin starvation or poor resin impregnation.
• There’s no sign of crash damage, deep abrasions, or tire rub that might indicate impact-induced failure.
Most Likely Root Causes:
1. Resin Starvation or Poor Wet-Out
Some of the fractured zones appear to lack sufficient resin, which compromises fiber cohesion and structural strength. This is often due to inconsistent layup, inadequate vacuum pressure, or issues in resin application.
2. Delamination Due to Poor Layer Bonding
The visible peeling and frayed laminate suggest layers may have separated under stress. This can result from under-curing, improper consolidation, or temperature control issues during manufacture.
3. Crown-Leg Transition Weakness
This area is often difficult to mold uniformly, especially on molds reused heavily or not maintained correctly. Stress concentrations here would exploit any weakness in fiber orientation or bonding.
4. Manufacturing Quality Control Lapse
If TanTan uses a third-party frame/fork supplier (as is often the case), inconsistent quality control in the supply chain could allow defects like this to pass undetected — especially in lower-cost carbon production environments.
Additional Thoughts:
• This failure should not occur under normal riding loads, and it highlights the importance of proper QC, layup integrity, and resin content.
• If this was a one-off, it’s unfortunate. If others have similar forks, it might be worth proactively inspecting the crown-leg junction — particularly for signs of surface distortion or laminate stress.
• A post-failure ultrasonic or CT inspection would confirm voids or resin-poor zones, but visually this already looks like catastrophic laminate failure due to internal defects.
Serge, are you behind the AI ? Because, you talked about the lack of resin :D.
More seriously, have you got an answer from Tantan ?
It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
Did you buy this freehub new and I packaging? I converted a Serenade wheelset to N3W on my gravel bike and I’m pretty sure the original DT N3W freehub came with a sleeve and an end cap. It was a straight swap and worked right away.
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Thanks guys! I reached out to Vivian via WhatsApp and TanTan via mail. They currently have week-long holidays due to Labor Day in China. However, couple days later I realize how lucky I have been. Usually I drive this route the other way round because you have a great high speed section at the beginning.
I'll keep you updated.
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Did you buy this freehub new and I packaging? I converted a Serenade wheelset to N3W on my gravel bike and I’m pretty sure the original DT N3W freehub came with a sleeve and an end cap. It was a straight swap and worked right away.
Yes, I bought it new. There was a new endcap but no sleeve included. Also DT Service wrote via E-Mail, that there's no other version of the sleeve that might fit. I think it was just poor tolerances, as mentioned before. 0.2 mm longer sleeve works fine now.
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It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
They won't do a recall since there is absolutely no risk to them for a lawsuit...
Chinese sellers are above the (western) law, so it's up to their goodwill if they will give you warranty replacements or some money back when something goes wrong... And if sh*t really hits the fan they will just ignore you and the problem is solved for them.
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Chinese seller are not above Chinese law however and this can still be pursed but the question is wether it is will work:
Just to add some context — China does have an official regulatory body that oversees product safety and quality. It’s called the State Administration for Market Regulation (SAMR) — or in Chinese, 国家市场监督管理总局.
Website: http://www.samr.gov.cn (Chinese only, but Google Translate works fine)
They’re responsible for handling issues like defective products, manufacturing violations, and recalls, including in cases where a product poses a safety risk. While they’re not specifically set up for international consumers, it is technically possible to submit a complaint — though you’d need to do it in Chinese or get it translated.
Also, every city in China has its own local market supervision bureau (like a regional SAMR branch), which may be more responsive depending on where the seller or factory is based — e.g. Shenzhen or Xiamen.
Of course, whether they act on it is another matter, especially for a one-off case, but Chinese businesses generally don’t want regulatory trouble. Just mentioning SAMR in your communications can sometimes be enough to make a seller take a claim more seriously.
If nothing else, it’s good to know there is an official channel beyond just PayPal or the seller’s goodwill.
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However many of us have used PayPal do this is the best option if they are not responding etc.
Just to clarify for anyone in the same situation — if the fork failed during normal riding and not as a result of shipping damage, it can still be pursued through PayPal under a “Significantly Not as Described” (SNAD) claim.
The key point is that the product was inherently defective and failed under typical use, which makes it unsafe and unfit for its intended purpose. PayPal does allow for disputes in cases like this, especially if there’s clear evidence the item had a manufacturing flaw.
Photos of the failure, a description of the conditions when it happened (e.g. no crash, no misuse), and even informal input from a mechanic can help support the case. Most buyers here have used PayPal, so it’s a good safety net — you’re not completely at the mercy of the seller’s goodwill.
Also, for what it’s worth, I’m the sort of person who wouldn’t just let this slide. I wouldn’t pursue legal action obviously, but I’d definitely go down the route of PayPal or other buyer protections if needed
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JUST FOR INFO
Mine ttx 68 (white waved wheels)
alrdy 1000km on it
speed: 25-33km/h
95% road / used pavement cracks / fixed cracks
5% gravel
issues is BB is creaking on higher watt output (but not always) - will check if bb is greased ......
Handlebar spacer rubbing / grinding on frame so the paint in a little area under the spacer is gone / scrachted
no fatal issues so far
!!!UPDATE!!! BB IS NOT CREAKING ITS HANDLEBAR SPACER TIP is Rubbing on Carbon frame when sprinting heavy !!!!!!!!!!!!
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
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Serge, are you behind the AI ? Because, you talked about the lack of resin :D.
Hehe. If you look at a steerer tube, or carbon bits like a derailleur cage, versus the photo of the shattered fork, and then look at videos from people who use non pre preg carbon (easy composites UK on yt, for eg), the fork looks like it's basically carbon strands without enough resin. If you brake a steerer in two, you don't have long loose strands like that, it's more like a crunchy chocolate bar with a matrix of chocolate and crunchy bits in it. That fork looks like it's all crunchy bits and no matrix. And the only reason why carbon fiber is strong is the resin matrix. The fibers are useless without it.
So, here, we have ultra light frames, seatposts that crack, forks that implode, BBs that creak from new, how many more elements do we need to get a mental model of how tight a ship tamtam is running?
Also, if you almost die on that bike, and it's a counterfeit, as your insurance company, I'd probably say that you're on your own.
JUST FOR INFO
Mine ttx 68 (white waved wheels)
alrdy 1000km on it
speed: 25-33km/h
95% road / used pavement cracks / fixed cracks
5% gravel
issues is BB is creaking on higher watt output (but not always) - will check if bb is greased ......
Handlebar spacer rubbing / grinding on frame so the paint in a little area under the spacer is gone / scrachted
no fatal issues so far
Lol. Had there been a fatal issue, by definition, you'd be posting on the forum from heaven. Pretty sure hell doesn't have wifi.
Creaky BB so early on is likely either user error, or poor manufacturing tolerances. Or both.
All of that from a lust for specialized vibe. Marketing done well.
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Its not necessarily "no resin" fwiw. Its more likely insufficiently heated prepreg. Result is the same though.
Its not encouraging that it happened, but lets see what the response is.
I don't doubt that the large demand for the frame has stressed production and probably qc. I also believe that tantan and other larger companies monitor social and even this forum for feedback.
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Serge, are you behind the AI ? Because, you talked about the lack of resin :D.
More seriously, have you got an answer from Tantan ?
It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
No, it was Serge who made the comment about the resin. I use AI/ChatGPT as a resource, which has been incredibly helpful for handling similar customer service situations—though my experiences are based in the UK which is obviously an awful lot different to China!
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This is really scary. I'm honestly beginning to regret my decision to purchase this frameset. Also, considering that my seat post cracked (most likely my fault, but anyway), seeing now this fork explode like this doesn't give me more confidence. Maybe Spcycle R088 would have been a better choice. Let's hope that this is a one-off..
By the way, what makes you think Tanan is completely outsourcing the production of this frame? Would it make sense to outsource something you can make in your own factory?
I get where you’re coming from—it’s definitely unsettling to see a failure like that. But it’s worth remembering that any carbon frame, even something like the SPcycle R088, could potentially have an issue if there’s a flaw in the material or a production slip. No brand is completely immune, especially with carbon, which relies heavily on quality control.
Also, about Tanan—Serge mentioned the resin, which made me wonder if parts of the production (like the layup or bonding) might be outsourced. That’s not uncommon even for companies with their own factories, especially if they’re managing multiple product lines. But of course, that’s just speculation.
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Hehe. If you look at a steerer tube, or carbon bits like a derailleur cage, versus the photo of the shattered fork, and then look at videos from people who use non pre preg carbon (easy composites UK on yt, for eg), the fork looks like it's basically carbon strands without enough resin. If you brake a steerer in two, you don't have long loose strands like that, it's more like a crunchy chocolate bar with a matrix of chocolate and crunchy bits in it. That fork looks like it's all crunchy bits and no matrix. And the only reason why carbon fiber is strong is the resin matrix. The fibers are useless without it.
So, here, we have ultra light frames, seatposts that crack, forks that implode, BBs that creak from new, how many more elements do we need to get a mental model of how tight a ship tamtam is running?
Also, if you almost die on that bike, and it's a counterfeit, as your insurance company, I'd probably say that you're on your own.
Lol. Had there been a fatal issue, by definition, you'd be posting on the forum from heaven. Pretty sure hell doesn't have wifi.
Creaky BB so early on is likely either user error, or poor manufacturing tolerances. Or both.
All of that from a lust for specialized vibe. Marketing done well.
Serge, you raise some fair technical points—especially about the resin matrix and how crucial it is to carbon strength. And yes, the fork failure photo is shocking. But I think we need to be cautious about jumping to sweeping conclusions based on one incident. There are plenty of frames from reputable brands (and even high-end ones) that have experienced sudden failures too. Carbon is brilliant but unforgiving if something goes wrong—whether that’s manufacturing, handling, or even damage during shipping.
As for the insurance comment and counterfeit angle—fair enough, that’s a serious consideration. But just to clarify: some of these frames aren’t direct counterfeits; they’re open-mould designs or licensed variations that are legally sold, especially if there’s no branding infringement. Still, it’s always good to understand the risks and ensure you’re informed.
Personally, I’ve found AI tools like ChatGPT incredibly useful in helping navigate customer service issues—it’s helped me get clear outcomes with UK companies where things seemed stuck.
Ultimately, I hope this was a one-off defect and that the brand takes it seriously. I’d like to think we can all share experiences here constructively—because snark aside, it’s clear we all care about safety and getting value for money.
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
Thanks for the update—glad to hear Vivian and the team at TanTan are taking it seriously and looking into the issue properly. A replacement fork and an investigation are the minimum you’d hope for in a situation like this, so it’s good to see that happening.
Also appreciate you sharing the part about the frame appearing OK but still advising a thorough visual and coin test—that’s a sensible approach. Fingers crossed it turns out to be an isolated incident and they follow through properly.
It’s moments like these that show why community feedback matters so much—helps everyone make better-informed decisions.
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can somebody explain the "coin test" :) ?
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can somebody explain the "coin test" :) ?
The “coin test” is a quick way to check for potential delamination or voids in a carbon frame or fork. You basically tap a coin (or similar metal object) gently along the surface of the carbon — ideally in a consistent pattern.
What to listen for:
• Healthy carbon sounds sharp and crisp — kind of a high-pitched ting.
• Damaged or delaminated areas often sound dull, flat, or thuddy — more like a thunk.
It’s not 100% foolproof, but it can help identify areas that might need a closer inspection. Especially useful around joins, lugs, or places under high stress.
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
How exactly are they planning to do the „in-depth“ investigation? Are you going to send the fork back to TanTan for an examination?
In my opinion, the rapid ultimate failure is a significant issue and safety concern and the root cause can not be investigated via photos. I think e.g. fibre volume fraction and resin curing state should be investigated by a laboratory via acid or burn off method and DSC analysis on your specific fork.
However, such analysis would be more expensive than the frame itself…
Concerning your frame, I am not sure I would rely on a „Coin Test“. You crashed with your bike with uncertain und maybe invisible damages to other components, such as the frame. The root cause was TanTans fork, so I think they should at least offer a discount on a new one (or pay for an CT inspection?) after they finished their investigation.
Best regards from somebody who just ordered his first frame from China ;D
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They’ll probably just check their production record (if there even is any) and come up with no root cause.
Let’s see how this turns out…
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But I think we need to be cautious about jumping to sweeping conclusions based on one incident. There are plenty of frames from reputable brands (and even high-end ones) that have experienced sudden failures too.
I dont disagree, i was just explaining my thought process and how i do white list, black list, and grey list. I've been on this forum for fairly long time, since back when everyone was buying velobuild frames. This was post the era when velobuild was shipping dog shit. My first 4 chinese frames were VB. before choosing VB, i looked at the market, and back then already, you could find a LOT of weird horror stories from tantan and workswell, in particular. dengfu also had a very checkered track record.
I build bikes for me & friends, and i dont want a bitter, let alone traumatic experience attached to any of it (several Winspace stories recently). So given the competition, i ultimately picked sellers for the dozen frame and dozen+ wheelsets i've ordered that didnt have that history of regularly peddling dangerous garbage. I'm quite familiar with the concept of statistical risk, and there are trades that in my mind aren't worth taking for their risk reward profile. Essentially, if you can avoid it, what do you gain from buying from a seller with a documented history of catastrophic failures? That's just a bad trade.
Specialized is no stranger to catastrophic failures, from steerer tubes to sworks frames disintegrating during a crash, but that fork failure is next level incompetence. Based on what's been explained, it implies that you should expect that your bike could simply self destruct at any time, for no reason. No thanks :) I know I worry too much, but that's a key reason why my friends are happy to ride my bikes, they know their house nerd has worried about stuff they dont even know about.
They’ll probably just check their production record (if there even is any) and come up with no root cause.
Let’s see how this turns out…
+1. The probability they come back with anything substantial is low enough that i'm happy to bet against it.
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What makes the entire experience even more off-putting is the fact TanTan hasn't provided any evidence of actually producing the X68 frames themselves in their factory. Maybe they are just trying to avoid IP or legal issues. But most likely the answer is that they don't.
I've mention this before. TanTan does a good job of showcasing their new and flagship frames on their Instagram. Videos of stress tests, paint application, frame molds, etc. A way to market their OEM abilities to private brands. Look at their GR049 and their latest and popular GR201 gravel frame. Being secretive of how/where the X68 is made has always rubbed me the wrong way.
What's funny is if we are to conclude that legitimate Western branded frames like Specialized only cost $200-$300 to produce, what are they doing differently than the likes of TanTan to prevent a fork from exploding?
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I dont disagree, i was just explaining my thought process and how i do white list, black list, and grey list. I've been on this forum for fairly long time, since back when everyone was buying velobuild frames. This was post the era when velobuild was shipping dog shit. My first 4 chinese frames were VB. before choosing VB, i looked at the market, and back then already, you could find a LOT of weird horror stories from tantan and workswell, in particular. dengfu also had a very checkered track record.
I build bikes for me & friends, and i dont want a bitter, let alone traumatic experience attached to any of it (several Winspace stories recently). So given the competition, i ultimately picked sellers for the dozen frame and dozen+ wheelsets i've ordered that didnt have that history of regularly peddling dangerous garbage. I'm quite familiar with the concept of statistical risk, and there are trades that in my mind aren't worth taking for their risk reward profile. Essentially, if you can avoid it, what do you gain from buying from a seller with a documented history of catastrophic failures? That's just a bad trade.
Specialized is no stranger to catastrophic failures, from steerer tubes to sworks frames disintegrating during a crash, but that fork failure is next level incompetence. Based on what's been explained, it implies that you should expect that your bike could simply self destruct at any time, for no reason. No thanks :) I know I worry too much, but that's a key reason why my friends are happy to ride my bikes, they know their house nerd has worried about stuff they dont even know about.
+1. The probability they come back with anything substantial is low enough that i'm happy to bet against it.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and thought process, Serge — especially with the background you’ve got from years on the forum and building up a dozen bikes and wheelsets. That kind of perspective is invaluable, particularly for those of us who might be newer to the direct-from-China frame route.
Totally get where you’re coming from regarding statistical risk and how certain suppliers build a reputation — whether good or bad — over time. The “white list / black list / grey list” approach makes a lot of sense, especially when you’re building bikes for others and want peace of mind as much as performance. It’s clear you put a lot of thought into the decisions, and your friends are definitely lucky to have someone that thorough looking after their gear!
Also agree that while big brands like Specialized have had their share of high-profile failures, there’s a very different level of accountability and follow-up. Something like this fork failure is unsettling, and hopefully TanTan respond seriously and transparently — not just for the person affected, but for everyone who’s invested in these frames.
Thanks again for weighing in — your insight is genuinely appreciated.To
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What makes the entire experience even more off-putting is the fact TanTan hasn't provided any evidence of actually producing the X68 frames themselves in their factory. Maybe they are just trying to avoid IP or legal issues. But most likely the answer is that they don't.
I've mention this before. TanTan does a good job of showcasing their new and flagship frames on their Instagram. Videos of stress tests, paint application, frame molds, etc. A way to market their OEM abilities to private brands. Look at their GR049 and their latest and popular GR201 gravel frame. Being secretive of how/where the X68 is made has always rubbed me the wrong way.
What's funny is if we are to conclude that legitimate Western branded frames like Specialized only cost $200-$300 to produce, what are they doing differently than the likes of TanTan to prevent a fork from exploding?
Appreciate you taking the time to lay all that out, Patilean — you’ve made some really thoughtful points throughout the thread and helped keep the discussion grounded.
The uncertainty around whether TanTan actually manufactures the X68 themselves has been a recurring theme, and the contrast with how openly they showcase other frames like the GR049 and GR201 is hard to ignore. Whether it’s about avoiding IP scrutiny or simply because a third party is involved, it definitely raises valid questions — especially when transparency is such a key part of trust for a direct-buy product.
Also fully agree with your take on Specialized and other big brands. Even if their unit cost is relatively low, what they invest in QC, traceability, and safety protocols is probably what helps prevent failures like this one. It’s not just about cost — it’s about oversight and accountability.
I’ve watched a number of TanTan’s Instagram posts as well, and while I’ve seen the X68 shown on racks waiting for paint or final assembly, I haven’t seen the same kind of behind-the-scenes footage — like mold work, layup, or stress testing — that they’ve shared for other models. That absence definitely adds to the impression that the X68 might not be built in-house.
On another note, one of the counterfeit sellers I’ve followed recently posted videos of a Madone SLR Gen 8 going through what appeared to be load testing — something I haven’t seen before from that side of the market. It just shows how even the gray market is trying to project legitimacy, which only adds to the complexity in trusting sources.
Appreciate the ongoing input — these kinds of conversations are a huge help for those of us trying to navigate the open-mold world with eyes wide open.
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To further @Serge_K points above now that I've gotten back into playing bikes in a circle I get a lot of questions from local teams about wheels.
Trust, dealer warranty, and brand cache are a priority here in Chicago. No matter how many times I recommend Carbon Speed OEM wheels, I can see in their faces how off-putting it is to cosign a brand they've never heard of. Winspace, FarSports, and No.6 believe it or not are the only brands that people around here....kind of trust. And that's mainly because those brands market their wheels to professional teams. Of course at the expense of paying consumers. Just like Western brands.
Clubs around here would rather ride on crappy Zipp wheels than take any gamble on Chinese brands. Confirmation bias is a real thing. This single, potentially one off, frame failure is enough to have potential buyers never shop a Chinese whatever ever again.
Last year I posted a video on my faulty Giant propel with a cracked steer tube. Giant at first didn't wanna honor their warranty. Others reported a similar experience with Giant's warranty too. But end of the day it's still Giant. Brand perception is real.
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Yeah, get that all the time. Folks want to know if I have dental insurance b/c I ride Chinese handlebars. And yet, you don't hear stories of actual failures.
Forks do break, and its very scary when they do. Steerer tubes fail, legs break (usually fod but not always) but the outcome for the rider usually isn't pretty and often involves hospitalization. But I don't think based on this single incident we can say that this frame/fork is any more "dangerous" than any other. We can speculate that Specialized has better qc measures in place ( and I would join in that speculation) but at the end of the day its just that, speculation.
But that said, I'm on a bunch of forums where people talk up failures and I can't say I remember ever seeing a report of a fork leg snapping jra. So there's that.
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Hey All,
Another complete build post with some first thoughts for anyone still waiting on their frame or thinking about buying.
About the build, went with the matte black because it was the lightest and only way I was going to beat the start of the tariffs here in the USA. Frame in a 56 was 850g with hangers and bottle cage bolts, fork was 330g uncut. Ultegra 8100 groupset, Roval CL II, Selle San Marco Shortfit CFX, Time Xpro 10, bike with pedals and cages is 16.1 lbs. From order to delivery was about 2.5 weeks.
About me, 170 lbs, former Cat 2 road/Cat 1 CX, now just ride for fun and occasionally hop into a weeknight crit. Threshhold around 300w and sprint around 1300w, so at least around here in Colorado decidedly average.
About safety, I had around 75 miles so far in my first week after building up and the vibes were good, and then the broken fork post really shook me. Had plans for a fast group ride today, but didn’t want any incident to potentially hurt other people so bailed on that plan. Decided I’d go out for my own and try to basically ride like an idiot so if it was gonna break I would at least be prepared for it. Gradually built up to higher and higher speed and hit the brakes hard, with the fastest being around 45 mph. Did some bunny hops, fast corners, potholes, downhill speed bumps, and a dirt road with some rough washboard. Held together well and shows no outward signs of deformation, coin test sounds the same as before I left, and pressing in various sections can discern no flex. I won’t pretend that this means mine or anyone else’s are perfect but it makes me feel a lot better at least. Probably will avoid any big groups until I hit at least 1000 miles in a couple months and much more confident it’s sturdy.
Finally, how does it ride? Honestly much better than expected. Last couple team bikes I had were a Sage Skyline and Donnelly C/C for cross. Comfort is on par with the Sage, but feels a lot more planted than that bike, although to be fair it had a max clearance for 25s. Stiffness wise it beats both of those, and that was a pleasant surprise because at this price and weight I was worried it would end up being a noodle.
So far fairly optimistic about how it’s performed in the first 150 or so miles, but hesitant to recommend to anyone else with the safety concerns as they are. Will be consistently checking back here for Tan Tan’s response on the fork, and will update as well when I get closer to 1000 miles. Anyone in the Denver area want to see one or ride it in person hit me up!
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I loaded paypal, Jessi sent me the invoice for a 58 frame, I was about to press the button, when I saw what happened, I am very uncertain about buying it or not
it does not leave me very calm
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I loaded paypal, Jessi sent me the invoice for a 58 frame, I was about to press the button, when I saw what happened, I am very uncertain about buying it or not
it does not leave me very calm
Would be a very good opportunity to send the photos from the forum of the forks and see what she says about them maybe.
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
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Would be a very good opportunity to send the photos from the forum of the forks and see what she says about them maybe.
most likely jessi, my intermediary, will already know this together with vivian.
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
ottimo 8)
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
6.5kg that will be impressive
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
most likely jessi, my intermediary, will already know this together with vivian.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
of course. you risked your life. you don't joke with these things
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Just to add some riding experience here: After a couple of kms, I'm really happy with the bike! Frame and wheels are/feel much stiffer than my 2021er TCR. Together with the lower weight this is noticeable in accalerations and also while climbing. At the same time, the bike doesn't feel more uncomfortable than the TCR. Bike handling in decends is also very comparable and "unremarkable" in a positive way (no "wobbling" or else...). Unrelated from the frame itself, the Wheeltop group has beed hassle-free and works very well. The broken fork really is a bummer, and not very confidence-inspiring. However, mine is still in one peace, also after a couple of bunny hops, pot holes and heavy breaking on steep hills (which really, and unfortunately, doesn't mean anything :().
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Just to add some riding experience here: After a couple of kms, I'm really happy with the bike! Frame and wheels are/feel much stiffer than my 2021er TCR. Together with the lower weight this is noticeable in accalerations and also while climbing. At the same time, the bike doesn't feel more uncomfortable than the TCR. Bike handling in decends is also very comparable and "unremarkable" in a positive way (no "wobbling" or else...). Unrelated from the frame itself, the Wheeltop group has beed hassle-free and works very well. The broken fork really is a bummer, and not very confidence-inspiring. However, mine is still in one peace, also after a couple of bunny hops, pot holes and heavy breaking on steep hills (which really, and unfortunately, doesn't mean anything :().
May I ask which wheels you're using?
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This purchase is a rollercoster for me so far.
6 weeks waitibgf time, wrong color, fork failing, more waiting time.....
However, I'm happy to see folks being pleased with their builds, so I'm eager to build my one, hopefully soon.
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sure! it's the wavy ones from serenade. there's a thread about them here in the forum.
https://amp.serenadebikes.net/50mm-Wave-Whape-Carbon-Racing-Bike-Wheelset-Ratchet-hub-1200g-p6220620.html
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
Props to you for still having confidence in this frame.
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Props to you for still having confidence in this frame.
Rode mine today on a fast 45k, and hit broken pavement and a plumbers trench -paved over but poorly-at 45kph on a descent without issue. I'm pretty well ok with the fork. Not prepared to say it was a one off, but also pretty certain its not the norm.
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While it's certainly concerning, it's nothing new that carbon can crack or be poorly manufactured. Two friends of mine destroyed their S-Works Aethos bikes—one by hitting a pothole hard, which cracked the top tube, and the other during a ride when the seat tube broke in the middle. These were genuine Aethos frames.
Something similar happened with a Giant TCR owned by another friend—the chainstay cracked out of nowhere, and the frame had only a few thousand kilometers on it.
Let’s not forget the fork issue with the Tarmac SL7.
We’ve seen pros on TV break their bikes and handlebars. It's true that buying a bike from a Chinese seller might make people more apprehensive, but in the end, it's not uncommon for carbon to fail due to poor manufacturing or quality control.... and it happens everywhere..
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Having done 1000km and around 18'000 meters of elevation. I really like the frame and the way it feels.
Stupid question, but how the f to get the seatpost wedge out to grease that little mf.. I can't extract it...
Little addition, the hylix seatpost for the SL8 fits well :) but I haven't ridden with that, I just wanted to test wheter I can switch to it if I wouldn't be happy with the setback post
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
Hi, what kind of inspection did you do to the frame?
Thanks
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While it's certainly concerning, it's nothing new that carbon can crack or be poorly manufactured. Two friends of mine destroyed their S-Works Aethos bikes—one by hitting a pothole hard, which cracked the top tube, and the other during a ride when the seat tube broke in the middle. These were genuine Aethos frames.
Something similar happened with a Giant TCR owned by another friend—the chainstay cracked out of nowhere, and the frame had only a few thousand kilometers on it.
Let’s not forget the fork issue with the Tarmac SL7.
We’ve seen pros on TV break their bikes and handlebars. It's true that buying a bike from a Chinese seller might make people more apprehensive, but in the end, it's not uncommon for carbon to fail due to poor manufacturing or quality control.... and it happens everywhere..
Common denominator is often the sworks version. Within pros, it's an open secret that sworks frames break a lot, and they usually dont recommend buying a frame from a team.
Pinarello was like that 5 or so years ago, with an ultra light version of the dogma that some bike shops refused to sell to customers because the frame simply wouldn't last. Awkward client conversations.
I would not spend sworks money on an sworks because there are too many stories of frames cracking while in the trunk of the car. I need my bike to be dependable.
These TDF level frames are the spear of the tech, and are not meant for mere mortals. You can't buy a formula 1 car, but you can buy an sworks.
My point as follows: while it's logical to expect failures on ultra light frames that compete on weight with the sworks, if we start normalizing frames cracking on this forum (again, hasn't been in a thing on here for years), let's distinguish the ultra light stuff from the other stuff, as i think that most people on this forum want bikes they can ride without fear of frame failure, at a sensible price point.
I would not put my friends on frames thinking that they may "just break like sworks". It's hard enough to make good friends, especially given how often road cyclists are just dicks, i can't start killing them, it's irrational.
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Common denominator is often the sworks version. Within pros, it's an open secret that sworks frames break a lot, and they usually dont recommend buying a frame from a team.
Pinarello was like that 5 or so years ago, with an ultra light version of the dogma that some bike shops refused to sell to customers because the frame simply wouldn't last. Awkward client conversations.
I would not spend sworks money on an sworks because there are too many stories of frames cracking while in the trunk of the car. I need my bike to be dependable.
These TDF level frames are the spear of the tech, and are not meant for mere mortals. You can't buy a formula 1 car, but you can buy an sworks.
My point as follows: while it's logical to expect failures on ultra light frames that compete on weight with the sworks, if we start normalizing frames cracking on this forum (again, hasn't been in a thing on here for years), let's distinguish the ultra light stuff from the other stuff, as i think that most people on this forum want bikes they can ride without fear of frame failure, at a sensible price point.
I would not put my friends on frames thinking that they may "just break like sworks". It's hard enough to make good friends, especially given how often road cyclists are just dicks, i can't start killing them, it's irrational.
Thanks for this detailed input, Serge — your take adds a lot of nuance and clarity to the discussion.
You’re absolutely right to draw the line between ultra-light, high-performance, race-day-only frames and the kind of dependable bikes most of us want to ride daily without a second thought. That distinction often gets blurred, especially when people chase weight savings without fully appreciating the compromises that come with it. The comparison to F1 cars is a good one — cutting-edge, but not necessarily built for longevity or the wear and tear of everyday use.
Also appreciate you highlighting the insider view on S-Works and previous Pinarello practices. It’s easy to get dazzled by the marketing and pro endorsements, but reliability often takes a back seat in that world — literally, in some cases, judging by the stories of cracked frames in car trunks.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a weight weenie myself — however, I don’t sacrifice performance or reliability in pursuit of lower grams. There’s a line, and I do my best to stay on the right side of it.
Your point about friends and trust hit home, too. Ultimately, a frame isn’t just carbon and resin — it represents confidence, responsibility, and safety for the people we ride with.
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
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This was the first and will be the last order at tantan.
It's two full month now since payment and frames have not even been shipped.
No reply by Vivian since two days, no estimated shipping date.
Will open a claim at PayPal tomorrow, maybe they will speed up afterwards.
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This was the first and will be the last order at tantan.
It's two full month now since payment and frames have not even been shipped.
No reply by Vivian since two days, no estimated shipping date.
Will open a claim at PayPal tomorrow, maybe they will speed up afterwards.
There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
It was the rim brake era, totally different game. You know how much force a fork fast to take today with them disc brakes? It's a lot... That's why first disc road brakes where heavier and mid ride quality and riders preferred the rim brake bikes. A lot changed but it's still not that straightforward to make sub 800g disc brake frame and lightweight fork
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There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
This - its why mine stretched to 90. They get very backed up after a week holiday, and they don't work from home during the holiday.
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
And all the Bianchi EV1's in sizes bigger than 52 failed at the bb. Light stuff is fragile, deal.
The x68 frame itself isn't world class light. The fork is close, but this failure was a process failure not a "light bike" failure.
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There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
Got a reply this morning:
"Another set needs to be remade with UD matte.
Please give us some more time."
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Thanks for this detailed input, Serge — your take adds a lot of nuance and clarity to the discussion.
You’re absolutely right to draw the line between ultra-light, high-performance, race-day-only frames and the kind of dependable bikes most of us want to ride daily without a second thought. That distinction often gets blurred, especially when people chase weight savings without fully appreciating the compromises that come with it. The comparison to F1 cars is a good one — cutting-edge, but not necessarily built for longevity or the wear and tear of everyday use.
Also appreciate you highlighting the insider view on S-Works and previous Pinarello practices. It’s easy to get dazzled by the marketing and pro endorsements, but reliability often takes a back seat in that world — literally, in some cases, judging by the stories of cracked frames in car trunks.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a weight weenie myself — however, I don’t sacrifice performance or reliability in pursuit of lower grams. There’s a line, and I do my best to stay on the right side of it.
Your point about friends and trust hit home, too. Ultimately, a frame isn’t just carbon and resin — it represents confidence, responsibility, and safety for the people we ride with.
Do you write these replies with AI?
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Got a reply this morning:
"Another set needs to be remade with UD matte.
Please give us some more time."
They need to make a new frame because they messed up and painted both of yours. Ask them to ship one of the frames now. They’ll probably want to ship both together since the original shipping was arranged for two frames.
However, since they can’t give you a clear timeline and this was their mistake, you should insist they ship the first frame now. They’ll need to cover the cost of shipping the second one when it’s ready.
Send something like the following since they cannot give you a timeline
Hi Vivian,
Since you’re already aware of the issue with the painted frame, I’d like to ask that you send out the finished X68 frame now, rather than waiting for the new UD frame to be made.
The delay has already affected my order, and without a clear timeline for the UD frame, it makes sense to ship what’s ready. When the UD frame is finished, I’d expect it to be shipped separately at your cost.
Thanks for your help, and I look forward to your reply.
Best regards,
Tom
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Do you write these replies with AI?
AI cannot write for you.
You have to write it AI can refine it.
I use AI occasionally to check and refine especially if it’s a long reply.
Not keen on grammatical errors and spelling mistakes.
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Do you write these replies with AI?
It is very obvious and hilarious.
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It is very obvious and hilarious.
;D
I'm aware it is obvious I'm not that smart ;D ;D
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Received my frame, ordered 19th march, tantan send it 25th april so not bad at all. Unboxing shortly 8)
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Received my frame, ordered 19th march, tantan send it 25th april so not bad at all. Unboxing shortly 8)
Rapid Delivery!
Where are you located JImpotante?
Mine were sent DPD on 30th but tracking is not detailed will likely pop up soon in the UK!
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Got a reply this morning:
"Another set needs to be remade with UD matte.
Please give us some more time."
That sounds like Randy from South Park saying "fuck you" :D
https://youtu.be/rrAgnnRZMMk
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Rapid Delivery!
Where are you located JImpotante?
Mine were sent DPD on 30th but tracking is not detailed will likely pop up soon in the UK!
Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
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Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
Give the Forks a good squeeze need to keep SergeK happy ;D
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Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
Is that pearl white/YS775-1 color?
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Is that a 58?
Don’t know about the paint job quality….
Especially considering they quoted me 500 USD for a custom one
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Is that a 58?
Don’t know about the paint job quality….
Especially considering they quoted me 500 USD for a custom one
$500usd!!
What the hell were you having done? ;D
I was going to buy an unfinished frame until I contacted a bike painter and it was around £500gbp so that was an obvious know.
The genuine SL8 frame paint is ok but nothing out of this world.
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Is that pearl white/YS775-1 color?
Chameleon white, size 58. Just this one part around screws looks like shit, but anyway it will be behind bottle cage so I don't' bother. it's standard paint job
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Can one of you folks doing a build put a set of calipers on the headset bearings and confirm the size.
Tantan claims their a unique size different than a real sl8 but given that every other dimension is identical, inquiring minds want to know.
So far they've said the seatpost is not the same as sl8, we now know it is. They say 140/140 on the spec sheet but its 160 only front. The derailleur hanger and seatpost wedge are identical to specialized. So I'm finding it unbelievable that the bearings are 52 52 while sl8 is 49.5.
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$500usd!!
What the hell were you having done? ;D
I was going to buy an unfinished frame until I contacted a bike painter and it was around £500gbp so that was an obvious know.
The genuine SL8 frame paint is ok but nothing out of this world.
Gold of course.
Nah ;)
Asked for glacier metallic. Then they asked for a reference. Sent them the link to the frameset. Maybe they mistook the paintjob for another one, because there was a different one on the preview.
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Gold of course.
Nah ;)
Asked for glacier metallic. Then they asked for a reference. Sent them the link to the frameset. Maybe they mistook the paintjob for another one, because there was a different one on the preview.
;D
Or maybe they added a 0 and it was actually $50.
Well I will bombard this thread with photos when I’m building ;D
Just itching to get it and compare against the real deal!
Watching DPD daily is a killer shame the delivery is not efficient as AliExpress!
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Watching DPD daily is a killer shame the delivery is not efficient as AliExpress!
17track.net sometimes has more granular info than other trackers.
Illusion of control is real.
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17track.net sometimes has more granular info than other trackers.
Illusion of control is real.
Cheers Serge_K
All 17tracked up!
Always the same with these ‘tax free’ deliveries they drop off the radar once collected on China then pop up a week later in your home country!
Almost have everything for the build just hydraulic hose and want to see how much Peter from XMs chainrings are then that’s it!
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Aside from buying the frame, I need group set and wheels. Do I need to purchase anything else to complete the build?
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Just to add for anyone looking to place an order now.
I just paid and estimate shared by Rose are as follow:
Frame paint time: 1 month
Shipping time is about 25-35 days
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Aside from buying the frame, I need group set and wheels. Do I need to purchase anything else to complete the build?
Hydraulic Hoses
Saddle
Brake discs
Bar tape
Bottom bracket
Tyres
Tubes
Bottle Cages
Pedals/spds
Chain if not supplied with groupset
Tools for install potentially depending on what tools you have
brake bleed kit and relevant oil for brake
Brake Pads if not supplied with groupset Tools
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Just to add for anyone looking to place an order now.
I just paid and estimate shared by Rose are as follow:
Frame paint time: 1 month
Shipping time is about 25-35 days
I was quoted 20-25 working days for frame manufacture took 23 days.
10-18 days shipping to UK, that’s a long shipping time it’s been 8 days so far.
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I was quoted 20-25 working days for frame manufacture took 23 days.
10-18 days shipping to UK, that’s a long shipping time it’s been 8 days so far.
I'm not familiar with manufacturing processes, but a month for a paint job kinda solidify the rumors that this frame isn't made in-house.
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I'm not familiar with manufacturing processes, but a month for a paint job kinda solidify the rumors that this frame isn't made in-house.
Does it, though? It could just come down to capacity. How many people do they actually have working on paint, and how many frames are in the queue? TanTan produce their own frames and also handle OEM work for other brands — so it’s entirely possible that a month-long wait is just due to volume, not outsourcing.
As always we are all just guessing!
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A bit more of ride reviews. I rode about 200 km with the frame now. It feels really excellent and as I said I still have a Tarmac SL7 and they feel the same. I would even say the Seraph feels more planted on the road and is a bit stiffer but yes still comfortable.
Aerowise I cant tell the differences between the two, the speeds are the same. Until now I dont have anything negative to say.
ah maybe the only thing is that I cant see how the frame should be compatible with 140mm front discs. It is the same system as the SL8 has so without another adapter, which is not included, I cant see how 140mm discs should fit. For me that I was using 140mm rotors on my 4 (!) wheelsets it is a bit of a hassle but in the end only 2 minutes of work.
Ah and yes the bottom spacer of the steering tube needs to be sanded down or cut in order to not make it rub on the frame. Seraph could have payed a bit more attention to that but its also no big deal. Some could even buy the geniuine SL8 spacers I think.
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Can one of you folks doing a build put a set of calipers on the headset bearings and confirm the size.
Tantan claims their a unique size different than a real sl8 but given that every other dimension is identical, inquiring minds want to know.
So far they've said the seatpost is not the same as sl8, we now know it is. They say 140/140 on the spec sheet but its 160 only front. The derailleur hanger and seatpost wedge are identical to specialized. So I'm finding it unbelievable that the bearings are 52 52 while sl8 is 49.5.
It's your lucky day :D
I have measured the outer diameter of at least one bearing it's 49,5mm.
So I think it's safe to assume any headset bearing set for the SL8 will work.
Also the SL8 seatpost from Hylix works in the TT-X68, so I think in general we shouldn't worry to much about spare parts but more about having a fake SL8
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Wondering if it would make sense to opt for a high quality bearing straight away.
Fiddling around with integrated headset is shitty in case of worn bearing.
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Wondering if it would make sense to opt for a high quality bearing straight away.
Fiddling around with integrated headset is shitty in case of worn bearing.
Sounds good.
Apart from Ceramic Speed SLT
Have you any suggestions?
Apart from applying a shit ton of grease!
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It's your lucky day :D
I have measured the outer diameter of at least one bearing it's 49,5mm.
So I think it's safe to assume any headset bearing set for the SL8 will work.
Also the SL8 seatpost from Hylix works in the TT-X68, so I think in general we shouldn't worry to much about spare parts but more about having a fake SL8
Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. Lots of folks upthread were claiming the tantan frame wasn't from whatever source the others were, given that "it has a different headset size". Now we know it doesn't.
Mine came built so I didn't want to pull the hoses to change the bearing...just added external grease. I avoid the rain as much as possible, not an option for Sander I suppose.
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Hydraulic Hoses
Saddle
Brake discs
Bar tape
Bottom bracket
Tyres
Tubes
Bottle Cages
Pedals/spds
Chain if not supplied with groupset
Tools for install potentially depending on what tools you have
brake bleed kit and relevant oil for brake
Brake Pads if not supplied with groupset Tools
Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
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Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
LT-Woo dont supply an L-TWOO crank for there group set unless the seller is proving a cheap crank which some Ali Express Seller do, like a ZRACE crank.
Lots of chap carbon crank's knocking about either 24MM OR 29MM axles like RIRO or LEES
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Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. Lots of folks upthread were claiming the tantan frame wasn't from whatever source the others were, given that "it has a different headset size". Now we know it doesn't.
Mine came built so I didn't want to pull the hoses to change the bearing...just added external grease. I avoid the rain as much as possible, not an option for Sander I suppose.
As I said some months ago, I am sure that Tan Tan and Taiwan Eisen are the same frames.
You have been derailled by a wrong headset size reported from Tan Tan (52) vs Taiwan Eisen and original (49,5) and assuming that Tan Tan is a good seller while others are just "counterfeit producer".
Tan Tan and Taiwan Eisen are not producing this frame, they are simply buying from the same factory.
Whoever is the producer, the dynamic qualities of the frame are very good, the quality of the finiture is sufficient.
The only thing I am a bit worried after 1.000Km is the solidity of the fork: it is around 330gr uncut and it is lighter than the SL8 original..
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I have said many times that the union between the direction tube and the horizontal tube is different from that of the original Tarmac, and all copies use the same union.
I think all the copies come out of the same factory, which is not so much or anything like that.
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Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
Mostly correct. Older sram can either be 30mm or gxp, which is 24mm on one side and a hair under on the other. You can either buy a gxp bottom bracket or use a sleeve to convert it to 24/24.
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I have said many times that the union between the direction tube and the horizontal tube is different from that of the original Tarmac, and all copies use the same union.
I think all the copies come out of the same factory, which is not so much or anything like that.
I will get a better look when my X68 arrives but it looks identical to me!
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Check my 56 size with specialized Web.
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Check my 56 size with specialized Web.
Will get a better Idea when the frame arrives and I can compare the two frames side by side
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Yeah so I'm finally selling off my real SL8 frameset. It's been collecting dust, with the exception experimenting with super narrow handlebars and obnoxiously long stems. The Chinese brands are good enough now for my needs. Wheels and groupsets are more important anyway.
I'm looking forward to hearing more longer term feedback on the X68. That way I can get one and use it as a "tribute" bike LoL
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Quick update on my frame. I have around 500km on it at the moment and still zero issues. I do wince a bit when I ride over big potholes, almost in preparation for a a fork failure, but nothing concerning has happened. I also am now checking the fork after every ride both visually and with the coin test to make sure things look good. Happy customer so far ;D
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Yeah so I'm finally selling off my real SL8 frameset. It's been collecting dust, with the exception experimenting with super narrow handlebars and obnoxiously long stems. The Chinese brands are good enough now for my needs. Wheels and groupsets are more important anyway.
I'm looking forward to hearing more longer term feedback on the X68. That way I can get one and use it as a "tribute" bike LoL
Wait, really? I thought you made videos on how amazing the frame was and how clearly better it was, and faster, and all of that? What... happened?
I dont actually have a horse in this race, but i didn't expect that!
As I said some months ago, I am sure that Tan Tan and Taiwan Eisen are the same frames.
Whoever is the producer, the dynamic qualities of the frame are very good, the quality of the finiture is sufficient.
The only thing I am a bit worried after 1.000Km is the solidity of the fork: it is around 330gr uncut and it is lighter than the SL8 original..
fwiw, i dont know what "dynamic qualities" are, and what "quality of the finiture" means.
I have said many times that the union between the direction tube and the horizontal tube is different from that of the original Tarmac, and all copies use the same union.
Direction tube, you mean steerer tube? Horizontal tube, you mean top tube?
What do you mean by "union", exactly?
And if it's just a shape thing you see by eye, rather than a layup or manufacturing method, i'd argue it may only prove they use the same mould. Open moulds are a thing. Fake specialized are incredibly popular. I wouldn't be surprised that different people could buy a clone mould from somewhere. Also, idk how one goes from CAD to mould, but potentially, a clone CAD file is circulating and different are ordering moulds on the back of that. Idk much, but i am aware of how much idk.
Point is: I dont have a horse in this race, but while both you guys are like "i told you so", i doubt either of you is convincing anyone. My dad's cousin was a conspiracy theorist, and an alcoholic. He would say a lot of non sense and people just tuned out. There was a lot "i told you so". His impact? he was run over by a car, so he did make an impact. On the car. Rest his soul.
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Just out of curiosity, why are people resistant to the idea that TanTan / Seraph are the ones making fake frames?
Objectively, this saga raises the following possibilities:
- TanTan sources some of their frames from other factories
- TanTan doesn't fully own or control their factory. Perhaps it is a shared asset and these fakes are financed by another partner in the factory
- TanTan is producing fake frames
Folks seem sold on scenario 1, but I don't get it. Most of the frames on this thread already sport S Works or Specialized decals, so it's not resistance to counterfeiting. I'm just really curious to understand why TanTan is held in enough regard to discount possibilities 2 and 3.
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Wait, really? I thought you made videos on how amazing the frame was and how clearly better it was, and faster, and all of that? What... happened?
I dont actually have a horse in this race, but i didn't expect that!
I'll be fully transparent and honest in here since Chinatown is my family now of 5 years ;D
1. The Tarmac SL8 is the lightest most comfortable and crosswind-stable frame I've reviewed. Climbing on it is fantastic. The magic sauce that Specialized uses is tangible and real. I've done 6-7 hour rides on it and never really felt frame fatigue afterwards. But it's not super exciting to ride everyday, in how I subjectively quantify excitement. It's not exhilarating. It's comfy but lacks character. That doesn't mean it isn't fast. It's speedy for sure.
2. The SL8/SL7 are NPC bikes around here. Sure they are great on paper, but everyone has one. I don't care if more road feedback means marginally less rolling resistance. I like my frames to actually feel stiff because in my head that means "stomp on the pedals harder" It's why I owned two Allez Sprints and the latest Giant Propel. Stiff bikes are fun bikes. Stiff bikes feel fast. Cornering on a stiff bike is so freakin fun.
3. I only invested in the SL8 for the sake of benchmarking against other frames. Specialized fan boys (admittedly probably one myself) tell me all the time the SL8 is the one to beat, so I figured I'd put my money where my mouth is. And after 1 year of use, the frameset has served it's purpose. Same with my Propel. My YouTube channel's marginal success is predicated on constantly testing out new products. Similar to the independent car tuner channels. Legacy products don't bring in views because the audience is always expecting new projects.
4. The primary reason over everything above however is two-fold: Money and Philosophy. I can no longer afford to have several $6000-$8000 bikes lying around if they aren't getting used enough. Which is funny considering I ride 10,000mi/16,000km a year. So having an SL8 collecting dust because I don't love it is a terrible terrible financial decision. And finally, I realize I just don't "need" an expensive bike for my usage. I will continue to review Western-brands as time/budget allows. Although I suspect nothing will come close to the SL8 anytime soon. The new Scott Addict looks tasty. That's the only bike I'd invest my money into at the moment. I considered the Factor Ostro for a while but....meh.
Getting back into competitively riding my bikes in circles this season has been an eye-opener to what's important to me in a bike. I 100% feel like an idiot making that comment because I am very much still an amateur with both a forgettable FTP and skill level. I am not qualified to speak on crit racing. That said, my Tavelo Arow has been fantastic for the 11 or 12 crits I've done so far. Yes I was sent the frame. But my Yishun/LC R086D which I paid for is just as capable. Pushing bikes closer to (my) theoretical limits has taught me that both the OEM and mid-level Chinese brands are more than capable of producing great frames for their intended purposes. The resell value however is absolutely atrocious. If that's important to you...
I still would like to test an X68 just so I finally close the chapter on my SL8. I just think wheels, groupset, fitness/coach, and optimal position on the bike have played more of a critical role than the importance of the frame itself.
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Just out of curiosity, why are people resistant to the idea that TanTan / Seraph are the ones making fake frames?
Objectively, this saga raises the following possibilities:
- TanTan sources some of their frames from other factories
- TanTan doesn't fully own or control their factory. Perhaps it is a shared asset and these fakes are financed by another partner in the factory
- TanTan is producing fake frames
Folks seem sold on scenario 1, but I don't get it. Most of the frames on this thread already sport S Works or Specialized decals, so it's not resistance to counterfeiting. I'm just really curious to understand why TanTan is held in enough regard to discount possibilities 2 and 3.
No one is resistant to the idea other than apparently tantan themselves.
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Sounds good.
Apart from Ceramic Speed SLT
Have you any suggestions?
Apart from applying a shit ton of grease!
From what I've read this is basically same as ceramic speed SLT (some say they maybe even make them for CS).
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig-40x52x7mm.html
And a cheaper option
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
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Pat- totally get that. The sl8, given what I've found with the x68, is a great all around bike. It is likely a little "soft" for folks that like something that doesn't give at all. The tradeoff is as you've found, that you can both go reasonably fast and not be broken over a few hours. Its pretty rare that way.
But if you could have a complete x68 with a futureproof group (wheeltop performs really freakin well, longevity to be determined) for 1/4 the Specialized tax, yeah, I'd sell the sl8. Its a great bike at a great markup.
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From what I've read this is basically same as ceramic speed SLT (some say they maybe even make them for CS).
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig-40x52x7mm.html
And a cheaper option
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
Those one do not fit: 52mm vs. 49,5mm
These are the right ones:
(https://r2-bike.com/media/image/product/227012/lg/ceramicspeed-kugellager-kit-ohd-slt-fuer-steuersatz-specialized-tarmac-sl7-sl8-allez-sprint.jpg)
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Those one do not fit: 52mm vs. 49,5mm
These are the right ones:
(https://r2-bike.com/media/image/product/227012/lg/ceramicspeed-kugellager-kit-ohd-slt-fuer-steuersatz-specialized-tarmac-sl7-sl8-allez-sprint.jpg)
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-45-45-steuersatz-kugellager-specialized.html
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Ok we have confirm that the X68 takes 49.5mm
So I’m assuming these ones for something premium
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Hey all
For purchaser of the Frame
How long did your shipping take?
In particular anyone in the UK?
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Hey all
For purchaser of the Frame
How long did your shipping take?
In particular anyone in the UK?
Mine took around 12 days to Czech Republic if i remember correctly.
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13 days to Poland
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What about additional fees and cost of shipping to UE?
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What about additional fees and cost of shipping to UE?
I didn't have to pay anything extra besides that 150USD DPD shipping. No custom duties not vat, it was just delivered by DPD to my place.
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Hopefully pop up next week then trying to be patient
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I have a SL6 54mm. Is this frame a bit more aggressive than the SL6? More for racing and less
Comfort?
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I didn't have to pay anything extra besides that 150USD DPD shipping. No custom duties not vat, it was just delivered by DPD to my place.
Same story with my order ;)
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
Seraph/TanTan now has the reputation of assploding forks. Maybe SPcycle is the alternative for those who want to keep all their teeth! ;D
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
Would order at SPCycle in comparison to Tantan. Had their G069 delivered in January, way better comunication at SPCycle, and I would think that Tantan doesn't produce their TT-X70..
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, way better comunication at SPCycle, and I would think that Tantan doesn't produce their TT-X70..
I must be particularly unlucky, I sent an email to ask for information on one of their frames, and they never answered me. this 10 days ago
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Would order at SPCycle in comparison to Tantan. Had their G069 delivered in January, way better comunication at SPCycle, and I would think that Tantan doesn't produce their TT-X70..
Not that i like tantan, but a few thoughts / questions on SPCycle:
they only seem to exist online as an aliexpress seller (Shenzhen dishai industrial co., ltd), which is registered in "Room 206" in a building in Shenzen. Not, let's say, a factory in Xiamen (600km away). Then, SPCycle website takes you to another store front clearly tailored to the west, with the same reference to Shenzhen dishai industrial, which is good, as it implies, that unlike LTWOO, the spcycle store on aliexpress is the same as the online store on www.sp-cycle.com. But neither proves it's an actual factory. Arguably, everything points to the fact it's probably not a factory. None of their content looks like an OEM / factory. They only mention factory space in one sentence somewhere. Maybe it's the retail arm of a manufacturer they're hiding?
Either way, i'd argue SPcycle is less likely than tantan to make their own stuff. To me, they're like velobuild?
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I bought two frames from them (M06 and G056), from my discussions with them, I believe they are oem but it’s hard to prove with certainty.
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I bought two frames from them (M06 and G056), from my discussions with them, I believe they are oem but it’s hard to prove with certainty.
I read a book on that topic. Lying about this is extremely common in china, because chinese people know westerners want to hear that they're talking with the factory rather than a middleman. Makes us feel smart & connected, and we assume that we'll get a better deal.
Which doesnt mean they're lying to you, but when you look at Xiamen carbon speed, long teng, farsports and more, you feel like you're talking to the factory. In fact farsports invited me to visit their factory :)
I can't say that w SPCycle. At the very least, they are hiding any details about the factory. the fact their email is @lc2000.com.cn and has nothing to do with "spcycle" isn't a great starting point.
It's a key reason i'm doing my best not to buy from them, because i want to feel that i'm trusting my seller. if you're a broker, especially making your money on aliexpress, there's nothing stopping you from doing whatever you want, anytime. I dont like that. The quality fade on Alix is legendary. Airwolf is the same, btw, just worse, as we know that very often, airwolf ships out bad frames to people. we can only assume that they source whatever, wherever, and you roll the dice on what you get.
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Not that i like tantan, but a few thoughts / questions on SPCycle:
they only seem to exist online as an aliexpress seller (Shenzhen dishai industrial co., ltd), which is registered in "Room 206" in a building in Shenzen. Not, let's say, a factory in Xiamen (600km away). Then, SPCycle website takes you to another store front clearly tailored to the west, with the same reference to Shenzhen dishai industrial, which is good, as it implies, that unlike LTWOO, the spcycle store on aliexpress is the same as the online store on www.sp-cycle.com. But neither proves it's an actual factory. Arguably, everything points to the fact it's probably not a factory. None of their content looks like an OEM / factory. They only mention factory space in one sentence somewhere. Maybe it's the retail arm of a manufacturer they're hiding?
Either way, i'd argue SPcycle is less likely than tantan to make their own stuff. To me, they're like velobuild?
Even the LTWoo store on AliExpress isn't from Ltwoo but a reseller. Trace Velo spoke to them on shangai bike show. Last part of his video he says they are working on a B2C portal but for now only B2B.
So that's why people have better experience there with 80 designer store. Since he's the better reseller with an eye for customer service :)
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I'll be fully transparent and honest in here since Chinatown is my family now of 5 years ;D
1. The Tarmac SL8 is the lightest most comfortable and crosswind-stable frame I've reviewed. Climbing on it is fantastic. The magic sauce that Specialized uses is tangible and real. I've done 6-7 hour rides on it and never really felt frame fatigue afterwards. But it's not super exciting to ride everyday, in how I subjectively quantify excitement. It's not exhilarating. It's comfy but lacks character. That doesn't mean it isn't fast. It's speedy for sure.
2. The SL8/SL7 are NPC bikes around here. Sure they are great on paper, but everyone has one. I don't care if more road feedback means marginally less rolling resistance. I like my frames to actually feel stiff because in my head that means "stomp on the pedals harder" It's why I owned two Allez Sprints and the latest Giant Propel. Stiff bikes are fun bikes. Stiff bikes feel fast. Cornering on a stiff bike is so freakin fun.
3. I only invested in the SL8 for the sake of benchmarking against other frames. Specialized fan boys (admittedly probably one myself) tell me all the time the SL8 is the one to beat, so I figured I'd put my money where my mouth is. And after 1 year of use, the frameset has served it's purpose. Same with my Propel. My YouTube channel's marginal success is predicated on constantly testing out new products. Similar to the independent car tuner channels. Legacy products don't bring in views because the audience is always expecting new projects.
4. The primary reason over everything above however is two-fold: Money and Philosophy. I can no longer afford to have several $6000-$8000 bikes lying around if they aren't getting used enough. Which is funny considering I ride 10,000mi/16,000km a year. So having an SL8 collecting dust because I don't love it is a terrible terrible financial decision. And finally, I realize I just don't "need" an expensive bike for my usage. I will continue to review Western-brands as time/budget allows. Although I suspect nothing will come close to the SL8 anytime soon. The new Scott Addict looks tasty. That's the only bike I'd invest my money into at the moment. I considered the Factor Ostro for a while but....meh.
Getting back into competitively riding my bikes in circles this season has been an eye-opener to what's important to me in a bike. I 100% feel like an idiot making that comment because I am very much still an amateur with both a forgettable FTP and skill level. I am not qualified to speak on crit racing. That said, my Tavelo Arow has been fantastic for the 11 or 12 crits I've done so far. Yes I was sent the frame. But my Yishun/LC R086D which I paid for is just as capable. Pushing bikes closer to (my) theoretical limits has taught me that both the OEM and mid-level Chinese brands are more than capable of producing great frames for their intended purposes. The resell value however is absolutely atrocious. If that's important to you...
I still would like to test an X68 just so I finally close the chapter on my SL8. I just think wheels, groupset, fitness/coach, and optimal position on the bike have played more of a critical role than the importance of the frame itself.
I feel like this isn't getting enough attention.
Do you plan to make a video about the decision? It'd also be interesting to have you chat on the Nero show about your thought process. Your choice is unique, not least in that you produce YT content and need reasons to make videos, but it still sounds like you might have sold the frame anyway because you already have other bikes that, at the end of the day, you feel like riding more. Ultimately, that's a big dent into Spec's special sauce vibe armor, and i really think a Nero show discussion would be very interesting, because on one hand, they're knee deep in chinese stuff, but on the other, Chris is still 100% invested in the idea of branded frames being a league above.
Timing would also work, given Jesse is experimenting with his own long ass stem, with your input.
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I think they've changed details in the latest model they've posted on their Instagram.
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I think they've changed details in the latest model they've posted on their Instagram.
What details exactly have they changed?
They have the new TT-X70 with UDH is this what your referring to?
Look like the X68 at the rear and obviously different up front.
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Now the handlebars have the points just like the original rock, and the shift leg uses a different screw
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Now the handlebars have the points just like the original rock, and the shift leg uses a different screw
Different size Frames that gap in the back of the head tube where the top tube and down tube meets increases or decreases with frame size. same for SL8 genuine
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Both are size 54.
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Hum I hope they don’t get them delivered like this
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Both are size 54.
I would say they have just made an error potentially then.
I must be blind looked at the instagram posts and there is no mention of sizes for the posts on these frames
Silver
https://www.instagram.com/p/DJVchmONq-8/
Black
https://www.instagram.com/p/DJdVN6PyfBd/?img_index=1
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I feel like this isn't getting enough attention.
Do you plan to make a video about the decision? It'd also be interesting to have you chat on the Nero show about your thought process. Your choice is unique, not least in that you produce YT content and need reasons to make videos, but it still sounds like you might have sold the frame anyway because you already have other bikes that, at the end of the day, you feel like riding more. Ultimately, that's a big dent into Spec's special sauce vibe armor, and i really think a Nero show discussion would be very interesting, because on one hand, they're knee deep in chinese stuff, but on the other, Chris is still 100% invested in the idea of branded frames being a league above.
Timing would also work, given Jesse is experimenting with his own long ass stem, with your input.
I feel as if I've beaten this discussion to death in my head. To the point it comes across like some sort of moral soapbox. Basically I've summarized my thought process across a few recent videos, particularly in my latest Tavelo Arow video.
One thing I would like to mention is I've realized how important brand cache is around here where I live. And the perceived trust/quality associated with big brands. We can argue all day on the internet as to why OEM wheels/frames present a fantastic value. But you should see the look on the faces of local riders when I recommend any other Chinese brand except Winspace, FarSports, and No.6
Let's be honest too: If I'm a pro team who is approached by Tavelo / No.6 Wheels / Yoeleo / Winspace with an offer I can't refuse...it's an easy decision. Brand awareness cost money. Yet I would not be surprised if OEM brands started artificially inflating their prices if more and more consumers jumped on the bandwagon. Yishun/LC immediately did this when I uploaded my review of the R086-D frame. Double edged sword.
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Yet I would not be surprised if OEM brands started artificially inflating their prices if more and more consumers jumped on the bandwagon. Yishun/LC immediately did this when I uploaded my review of the R086-D frame. Double edged sword.
Even TanTan/Seraph has increased the prices slightly for their TT-X68 frame and full builds. Their complete build was USD 2399, now it is USD 2539. The painted frames were USD 719, now some of them are USD 775(https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html), while some others are USD 729.
I can imagine the prices spiking once someone like you, Patrick, makes a video on them.
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Maybe the USD lost 5% of its value since tariff and manufacturer are just transferring the FX rate?
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Even TanTan/Seraph has increased the prices slightly for their TT-X68 frame and full builds. Their complete build was USD 2399, now it is USD 2539. The painted frames were USD 719, now some of them are USD 775(https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html), while some others are USD 729.
I can imagine the prices spiking once someone like you, Patrick, makes a video on them.
When I ordered the black frame UD Gloss cheapest option at $589usd and the headset and thru axles were another $20usd $609usd, so its now $629 on the Seraph site only $20.
From what I gather they have increased paint prices quite a bit.
Frame is being delivered today ordered the 1st of April.
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its the way I’m holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it’s not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798g no hardware
Forks uncut 399g
But will check with better quality scales when they arrive
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
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I don't think that the current production Rapide's have the textured tops. I think you're correct though about the topcap, maybe could be fixed with a little file...
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its the way I’m holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it’s not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798g no hardware
Forks uncut 399g
But will check with better quality scales when they arrive
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
Very exciting :D
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I don't think that the current production Rapide's have the textured tops. I think you're correct though about the topcap, maybe could be fixed with a little file...
glepore your right!
Ok wonder why that is maybe if I read the WW forum maybe I could find out but can’t be arsed :D :D
Well my rapides are a more grey anyway agains the black will lost a few more photos when I get in!
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Ok Bars
I’ll double-check when I get new scales , but weight is 228g on Micky mouse scales .
Size is 380mm wide, 110mm stem.
The Rovals are grey with a light finish — you can see some carbon weave through the surface.
The X68 bars are sprayed black. I used to be in the building trade, and to me, they just don’t have the same sharpness in finish.
The top cap area has a slight dip in the middle, and the bar edges aren’t perfectly straight it’s not blatantly noticeable though — there’s a slight bump and a misaligned cable exit hole (luckily underneath), oddly placed right next to the QC sticker.
Obviously with a bit more time these could be finished better but northing to split hairs over once and the bike they will look fine.
The profiles are subtly different too. From the front edge, the Rovals have a more pronounced contour I would say a more of a point while the X68 front section is more rounded.
Also, the X68 profile feels marginally thicker — maybe by 1mm. The Roval front profile appears slimmer and a bit more refined but we are talking 1mm on the verniers.
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its way I'm holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it's not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798G, no hardware.
Forks Uncut 399G
But it will check with better quality scales when they arrive.
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
wow, it looks amazing, that raw finish is very nice. Hopefully in the performance comparison it will be a bit similar to the original, after 1500 km I feel it as the stiffest bike I have ever tested, and fast. the other day on a long descent I was able to overtake to my group of cyclists at more than 80km/h. It was amazing to see how people were overtaking without having to use the pedals
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
The fate of my X68 dealings lies solely on you now haha
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The fate of my X68 dealings lies solely on you now haha
:D great not pressure then!
Ok well let’s start with the bars
I’ll double-check when I get the new scales but weight is around 229g on the Micky Mouse scales :D
Size is 380mm wide, 110mm stem my genuine are 400x110mm
The Rovals are grey with a light finish — you can see some carbon some UD carbon through the surface.
The X68 bars are finished in black. I used to be in the building trade and have a keen eye for small details and to me, they just don’t have the same sharpness in finish but obviously they came with the frame so it’s expected as they are not £575gbp!
The top cap area has a slight dip in the middle as seen in one photo I may attempt to flatten this out if really necessary.
And the bar edges aren’t perfectly straight you can make it out if you have a good look but if you are glancing at the bars you would never notice it’s barely notable
The cable entry and exit hole is well ok the piss! With the QC sticker on it lol but good thing it’s underneath.
And the top cap areas has not been machined to allow a more seamless fit with the top cap as with the original.
My original bars I purchased on release and have the textured surface and the X68 do not but glepore pointed out that the current bars do not have this which is correct.
The profiles are subtly different too but this is only noticeable side buy side When you look down on the top of the bars.
Also, the X68 profile feels marginally thicker — there is not a lot in it on the verniers maybe 1mm but again unless you have the real McCoy next to them you would never know.
The Roval front profile appears slimmer and I would say is blade like where as the X68 appears slightly more rounded.
I flipped the bars upside down and gave them a squeeze and they feel stiff but I will obviously test this better when I get to ride them.
And the spacers are not a tight fit at the base of the stem there is the collar part from the steers tube to the underside of the stem where the stem is obviously not the same depth and there are gaps either side. I have ordered a genius kit to see if it’s a tighter fit.
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Initial Impressions – Frame Side by Side
Side-by-side, the frame looks identical to the genuine article.
Finish is generally okay, though I did notice a few minor ripples in the surface. BB and thru-axle threads had a bit of overspray — nothing major or that would cause issues.
Seatpost slid in without any problems.
One small hiccup: when I reinserted the rear thru-axle, the washer was stuck on the frame. For a moment, I thought it was bonded in. Looks like they fitted it shortly after painting, so it had stuck slightly. A quick flick with a knife sorted it.
The gloss UD finish looks great in my opinion, and I think it’ll look even better once it’s built up.
Like others, I checked inside the head tube, BB shell, and seat tube. Everything looks tidy — obviously that doesn’t guarantee anything structurally, but it’s clean and well-finished inside.
Fork came in at 399g uncut, and the frame is 788g (no hardware). I’ve got some Kern scales arriving soon, so I’ll post a more accurate weight when I get them. For reference, my genuine frame weighs 701g.
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More photos.
Let me know if you want any more
Photos.
Have everything to build it up so will start next week as I am busy.
But will post build photos.
BB has not been faced like the real SL8 it has been sprayed up to the edge of the BB shell.
The genuine one is machined and you can see the surface carbon around the BB
Brake mounts look ok so far.
I will try and fit the BB as is and hopefully it’s ok.
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Initial Impressions - Frame Side by Side
Side-by-side, the frame looks identical to the genuine article.
Finish is generally okay, though I did notice a few minor ripples in the surface. BB and thru-axle threads had a bit of overspray - nothing major or that would cause issues.
Second post life without any problems.
One small hiccup: When I reinserted the rear thru-axle, the washer was stuck on the frame. For a moment, I thought it was bonded in. Looks like they fitted it shortly after painting, so it had stuck slightly. A quick flick with a knife sorted it.
The gloss UD finish looks great in my opinion, and I think it'll look even better once it's built up.
Like others, I checked inside the head tube, BB shell, and seat tube. Everything looks tidy - obviously that doesn't guarantee anything structurally, but it's clean and well-finished inside.
Fork came in at 399g uncut, and the frame is 788g (no hardware). I've got some Kern scales arriving soon, so I'll post a more accurate weight when I get them. For reference, my genuine frame weighs 701g.
Is the frame size 54?
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[...] reply is to all you last posts
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Thanks for the photo's and the detailed information. I'll be following you build and maybe steal some ideas (as to components).
Is it size 54, and what is your length?
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I don't get the weight of the fork, 399gr. I had read elsewhere if I remember correctly 340gr, less than the weight of the original
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I don't get the weight of the fork, 399gr. I had read elsewhere if I remember correctly 340gr, less than the weight of the original
Mine was 324 g uncut.
Additional weights: My frame was 843 g (size 56, with hanger), seatpost 163 g (380 mm version), bars 337 g (shortest stem, 380 mm wide).
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Thanks for the photo's and the detailed information. I'll be following you build and maybe steal some ideas (as to components).
Is it size 54, and what is your length?
Yes, it’s a 54cm frame, and I’m 178cm tall.
i might have the frame inspected at Carbon Cycle Solutions, where they can carry out a full carbon health check:
“Thanks for getting in touch with us. We can carry out a full carbon health check of your frame and forks, which includes a comprehensive written report and associated imagery.
We use a combination of microscopic and endoscopic cameras to check the inner and outer surfaces of each tube. Should anything be picked up, we will then use ultrasound to further investigate the area.”
I’ve got quite an extensive list of upgrades lined up, so I’m hoping the frame checks out!
Planned Upgrades:
Titanium Upgrade Kit for brake callipers
Shimano K05Ti resin pads
TI Master titanium rear derailleur pivot bolt
TI Master titanium shifter clamps
Chaser direct mount hanger (aluminium)
Chaser front brake mount (aluminium)
Galfer Wave centre lock brake rotors – 140mm & 160mm with Shimano lock rings
Overfast carbon thru axles
DFS Carbon Crank with 24mm titanium axle
XM Carbonspeed carbon chainring (planned 54-39T; fallback 53-39T if 54-39T isn’t possible)
Ryet saddle
Lucendi 1g bar plugs
Lightweight expander plug (Yes, a bit controversial, but I’ve used them without issue on both my SL7 and SL8)
Hopp carbon top cap with Extralight bolt
Magcad Garmin mount
ZTTO cassette (still undecided — mixed reports on shifting performance)
Barrel & nut upgrade for seat post wedge
Upgraded seat post cradle clamps and bolts
Maxxis Hyper SL 28mm tyres
Ridenow TPU tubes
DFS 60/65 T1000 wheels with 5mm carbon spokes.
Have a spread sheet and will post and list before and after weights for those who are interested and where purchased if its equipment I dont already have
Fingers crossed the frame gets the all-clear!
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Mine was 324 g uncut.
Additional weights: My frame was 843 g (size 56, with hanger), seatpost 163 g (380 mm version), bars 337 g (shortest stem, 380 mm wide).
Jeez that quite a difference obviously 324g vs 399g.
For reference my original SL8 fork uncut was 372.1grams and the frame before I had it painted was 700.4g photos attached for reference
The scales are not the best to be honest but they cannot be that far out though.
Maybe some other recent purchaser can post some fork weights.
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Guys any idea how to instal this little plate? It's inside seatpost tube and keep the front deraillure hanger up. When I was trying to mount di2 cable this plate fall down :-\ :(
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Guys any idea how to instal this little plate? It's inside seatpost tube and keep the front deraillure hanger up. When I was trying to mount di2 cable this plate fall down :-\ :(
Have you Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0ZE6dKsiS6/
My mechanic good tip!
Also shows you in the SL8 Manual page 22
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Have you Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0ZE6dKsiS6/
You SAVED my life ;D
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My frame is Gloss in 58 weight 875g with both hangers and bolts. Fork weight 333 uncut.
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My frame is Gloss in 58 weight 875g with both hangers and bolts. Fork weight 333 uncut.
The SL8 white paper attached fork is 358g in RTP with 240mm Steerer tube for 56cm frame
So we have quite a variation but I would double check again later pretty sure is will not suddenly jump 60grams though ;D
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The SL8 white paper attached fork is 358g in RTP with 240mm Steerer tube for 56cm frame
So we have quite a variation but I would double check again later pretty sure is will not suddenly jump 60grams though ;D
Anyway my frame is going in next week for a scan
My uncut fork was 360.3g (somewhat good coffee scale :D) but i don't remember now if it was with thru axle or not... And the photo i have is rather pointless in that regard :D
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too much discrepancy in weight between the same forks, do they flip a coin before building them? heads or tails?
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Here are my weights for a site 58 in UD Gloss:
Seatpost: 166g 380mm with hardware
Fork: 333g uncut
Frame: 875g with hangers and bolts
Handlebar: 383g 420x120 with stem bolts an top cap and bolt
Truaxles: 54g
Expander: 54g
Headset: 42g
Seatpost wedge: 20g
Flat mount: 16g
Spacers: 28g
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Re the ztto cassette, I'm running a gen 2 (the one with the biggest cog being alu) 11-34. It works fine. Initially there was a bit of hesitation on the 5-4 "upshift" (going to a harder gear) but it got better over time, and with Wheeltop I was able to dial it all out. It is sensitive to the initial setting of the 11 and b tension.
The comment I would add is that its LOUD. Not horrible, but if you've not used a SRAM one piece cassette before you might think something's up. All of these hollow cnc machined cassettes make significantly more noise than Campy or Shimano.
I didn't weigh my forks as the brake hose was in place and I didn't want to fuss with it, but man those weight differences are disturbing, on the order of 15%. Mine has been ridden enough that I think it would have failed by now if it was underbuilt but I hate being a beta tester.
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My uncut fork was 360.3g (somewhat good coffee scale :D) but i don't remember now if it was with thru axle or not... And the photo i have is rather pointless in that regard :D
Ok i think it had to be with the thru axle so it means it was around 333g or so in that case.
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Ok the frame inspection is £212gbp!
My tight Irish blood is saying no! ;D
My sensible head is saying yes!
Well if i want to part with the cash Will have to take it in tomorrow or do I take a risk and save £200
Bit of s quandy end up spending £200 to find out the frame is no good and upset the group potentially.
CoreX88 had there frame inspected after the for failure will ask what inspection was carried out and any update to see how TanTan have been dealing with it
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Ok the frame inspection is £212gbp!
My tight Irish blood is saying no! ;D
My sensible head is saying yes!
Well if i want to part with the cash Will have to take it in tomorrow or do I take a risk and save £200
Bit of s quandy end up spending £200 to find out the frame is no good and upset the group potentially.
CoreX88 had there frame inspected after the for failure will ask what inspection was carried out and any update to see how TanTan have been dealing with it
well, I'd not spend the money. Might have just the fork done given the failure, but yours is so heavy that they must have added material, lol.
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well, I'd not spend the money. Might have just the fork done given the failure, but yours is so heavy that they must have added material, lol.
I like you, Glepore
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
Yes ;D
Free as well
Can imagine some fellas job is just sticking them on ;D
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
They are probably still on the broken fork without resin
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
In France some donkey in the government decided that grades were racist or transphobe, so schools now give coloured stickers to students, as if they were retarded, instead of grades.
I have the same faith in these QC stickers on frames.
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In France some donkey in the government decided that grades were racist or transphobe, so schools now give coloured stickers to students, as if they were delayed, instead of grades.
I have the same faith in these QC stickers on frames.
My frame doesn't even bring those stickers, I feel like every time I ride it I'm risking my life, even though it's a really nice frame to drive.
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Photos
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Photo
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Photos
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Tried fitting the Darimo seatpost in the X68 frame and noticed the seat tube is just a tiny bit wider more play side to side.
I could get the X68 post—probably an inch diameter—into the SL8 frame, but that’s it. .
The Darimo post fits the SL8 nicely and snugly. But the X68 post, if you don’t hold it tightly, will just slide right into the framem. I wouldn’t buy a genuine SL8 post because the Darimo one felt a bit loose in the X68 frame.
For the X69 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
So overall, the seatpost weighs about 131.9g. I’m thinking of cutting the post down to 350mm and re-drilling the Di2 battery holes as well.
One more thing—the original rear bolt is M4 size for the seatpost clamp hole at the rear but an M5 bolt will thread through the back hole in the seatpost without issue.
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For the X68 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
Those are aftermarket parts, right?
Could you pls share links?
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Short update:
TanTan is messing around since 3 weeks and did not source and ship a UD matt frame after accidently painting it.
So I'm waiting since the 5.03. so more then 9 weeks and the frames are not ready to ship!
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buongiorno a tutti, sono nuovo in questo forum e visto che sono interessato anche io a questo telaio x68 volevo chiedere a chi ne possiede uno se lo riacquisterebbe e il se lo ritiene sicuro dopo aver letto che alcuni utenti hanno avuto problemi con reggisella, forcella e telaio. grazie a chi mi potrà consigliare.
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buongiorno a tutti, sono nuovo in questo forum e visto che sono interessato anche io a questo telaio x68 volevo chiedere a chi ne possiede uno se lo riacquisterebbe e il se lo ritiene sicuro dopo aver letto che alcuni utenti hanno avuto problemi con reggisella, forcella e telaio. grazie a chi mi potrà consigliare.
Non parliamo Italiano qui. Per favore scrivi in Ingelese, grazi!
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Short update:
TanTan is messing around since 3 weeks and did not source and ship a UD matt frame after accidently painting it.
So I'm waiting since the 5.03. so more then 9 weeks and the frames are not ready to ship!
My opinion is that they will strip the paint and paint it matt black. It will not be new frame ;)
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good morning everyone, i'm new to this forum and since i'm also interested in this x68 frame i wanted to ask those who own one if they would buy it again and if they consider it safe after reading that some users have had problems with seat post, fork and frame. thanks to anyone who can advise me.
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good morning everyone, i'm new to this forum and since i'm also interested in this x68 frame i wanted to ask those who own one if they would buy it again and if they consider it safe after reading that some users have had problems with seat post, fork and frame. thanks to anyone who can advise me.
i and welcome to the forum!
Great to see you doing your research before committing — it's smart, especially with a frame like the X68 that’s generated some debate. You mentioned concerns about safety, and I’ll try to share what I know and my own experience.
Yes, there have been a couple of reported issues — one fork failure and a minor crack in a seatpost. That said, I’ve also had failures on premium components: a €400 Gelu seatpost cracked within torque spec, and a Felt carbon frame cracked at the seatstays. These things unfortunately aren’t exclusive to lesser-known brands.
TanTan, the manufacturer, claims their products undergo ISO 4210-compliant testing (impact, fatigue, vibration), but they don’t provide detailed test results or even basic sales figures — which makes it hard to put the reported failures into perspective. I asked for sales numbers to do a rough risk estimate, but they understandably didn’t provide them. So yes, I was probably clutching at straws there.
Based on what I’ve seen and experienced, I personally still consider the frame reasonably safe — for me. But I completely accept that others may have deeper technical knowledge or different standards, and they may reasonably come to a different conclusion. Risk tolerance varies from rider to rider, and in my case, I’ve weighed the pros and cons and made a decision I’m comfortable with. Others may (and should) make their own judgment based on what level of risk they’re okay with.
Hope that gives a bit of perspective — and definitely feel free to reach out if you decide to go ahead or want
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thank you very much for your experience
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thank you very much for your experience
What frames have you been looking at? A lot of people I know have been looking at the obvious counterfeits with specialized branding.
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I'm sorry but unfortunately I don't know English, I use Google Translate and it doesn't help me understand your question!
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I'm sorry but unfortunately I don't know English, I use Google Translate and it doesn't help me understand your question!
Che telai stai valutando? Conosco molte persone che stanno guardando ai soliti falsi con il marchio Specialized
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TT-X68 Disc Superlight Road Frame
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Let’s add a bit of context to the ongoing debate around the X68 frame weights and forks. The frame and fork weights fall more in line with the Tarmac SL8 Pro frame range — with the size 56cm version claimed at 780 grams.
Looking back at the video from Patrick on YouTube when he first received the Pro Frame, his painted 56cm frame came in at 827g, the uncut fork at 397g, and the seatpost at 169g.
I would say this Pro frame likely uses a lower proportion of T1000 carbon compared to the S-Works version. That’s probably also the case with Tan Tan X68 frames, as using less T1000 helps keep production costs down and reduces the likelihood of durability issues. T1000 is known for being more fragile, despite its higher strength-to-weight potential.
This may also explain how some of the rebranded or counterfeit frames manage to achieve their impressively low weights — possibly by using more T1000 carbon, which could compromise reliability.
This may have been discussed earlier in the thread but what are peoples thoughts
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Tried fitting the Darimo seatpost in the X68 frame and noticed the seat tube is just a tiny bit wider more play side to side.
I could get the X68 post—probably an inch diameter—into the SL8 frame, but that’s it. .
The Darimo post fits the SL8 nicely and snugly. But the X68 post, if you don’t hold it tightly, will just slide right into the framem. I wouldn’t buy a genuine SL8 post because the Darimo one felt a bit loose in the X68 frame.
For the X69 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
So overall, the seatpost weighs about 131.9g. I’m thinking of cutting the post down to 350mm and re-drilling the Di2 battery holes as well.
One more thing—the original rear bolt is M4 size for the seatpost clamp hole at the rear but an M5 bolt will thread through the back hole in the seatpost without issue.
Excellent. Are you using m5 nut on the rear yoke or were you able to source one with threads?
J&L cradle? Mine fits "close" but not perfectly, haven't used it yet. But that's an easy 40g, and the expander another easy savings.
I think an oem specialized top cap would solve the "fits high" issue.
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Let’s add a bit of context to the ongoing debate around the X68 frame weights and forks. The frame and fork weights fall more in line with the Tarmac SL8 Pro frame range — with the size 56cm version claimed at 780 grams.
Looking back at the video from Patrick on YouTube when he first received the Pro Frame, his painted 56cm frame came in at 827g, the uncut fork at 397g, and the seatpost at 169g.
I would say this Pro frame likely uses a lower proportion of T1000 carbon compared to the S-Works version. That’s probably also the case with Tan Tan X68 frames, as using less T1000 helps keep production costs down and reduces the likelihood of durability issues. T1000 is known for being more fragile, despite its higher strength-to-weight potential.
This may also explain how some of the rebranded or counterfeit frames manage to achieve their impressively low weights — possibly by using more T1000 carbon, which could compromise reliability.
This may have been discussed earlier in the thread but what are peoples thoughts
Hard to say. T1000 is enough of a cost difference to be unlikely. Guess its possible but there's no way I'd ride an unknown copy bike lighter than an sworks given that sworks frames have a reputation for being fragile enough. Could just be less filler etc in the finish, and skimping on some reinforcement here and there.
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Excellent. Are you using m5 nut on the rear yoke or were you able to source one with threads?
J&L cradle? Mine fits "close" but not perfectly, haven't used it yet. But that's an easy 40g, and the expander another easy savings.
I think an oem specialized top cap would solve the "fits high" issue.
Hey Glepore,
Yes, I’ll be using an M5. I managed to thread the supplied bolt through the rear hole, but I’ll probably just file a little off both sides so I don’t have to basically force-screw it through.
I ordered an Elita One cradle (claimed 12g) for £9.69,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006666237770.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.428118029lhl7P
Two titanium M5 bolts — one 30mm and the other 35mm — for £3.41
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006118920483.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.428118029lhl7P
And a pair of Zrace aluminium yokes (10g) for £7.83.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007653744576.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.428118029lhl7P
I measured everything, and the cradle should fit. I’ll make sure to use anti-seize on the yokes and bolts as well.
I have the lightweight HOPP top cap — the fit looks okay. The Tan Tan top cap (as shown in the picture on the other pages) is ever so slightly larger than the OEM SL8 one. I did notice in some of the build photos from other people’s bikes that the fit wasn’t great — the top cap looked almost like an afterthought.
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Hard to say. T1000 is enough of a cost difference to be unlikely. Guess its possible but there's no way I'd ride an unknown copy bike lighter than an sworks given that sworks frames have a reputation for being fragile enough. Could just be less filler etc in the finish, and skimping on some reinforcement here and there.
I would say it was done for durability myself then. The S-Works top and down tube is paper thing even when you tap them. Seen picture online and the bikes always appears to snap in these areas in a crash which is likely for most of the superlight weight frames these day
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Photos
Is the expander identical for both models (X68 and SL8)?
Thanks
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Is the expander identical for both models (X68 and SL8)?
Thanks
Read page 67
I have posted many photos
But no it look quite similar but it’s heavier
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Read page 67
I have posted many photos
But no it look quite similar but it’s heavier
Seen thanks, but apart from the weight they seem identical in structure/construction.
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Sander, have you removed an installed sl8 expander? Have seen the "pry with a bolt" trick on youtube, wondering if that's the only way to get it out.
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Sander, have you removed an installed sl8 expander? Have seen the "pry with a bolt" trick on youtube, wondering if that's the only way to get it out.
Gelpore
No I have not as I don’t use the supplied expanders.
I use the lightweight types.
My mechanic unscrews it as far as you can and then you need to hit the bolt to dislodge the wedge but I am aware it is a
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Seen thanks, but apart from the weight they seem identical in structure/construction.
Yes that is correct pretty much the same. Obviously the black part has to be cut to size and the edges files down one the steerer tube is cut son it fits and does not touch the internal brake cable
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The build has started!
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Hello Guys
After Reading this thread I'm tempted to buy an sl8 copy.
Does anyone know if the sl8 copy sold by yohobike is the same as the tartan/seraph and if the yohobike site is legit?
Best regards
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Hello Guys
After Reading this thread I'm tempted to buy an sl8 copy.
Does anyone know if the sl8 copy sold by yohobike is the same as the tartan/seraph and if the yohobike site is legit?
Best regards
No one knows wheee these frames come from. And Tan Tan claim to manufacture theres.
Yoho bike has been around for a while.
They have a few numbers
+86 136 7012 0157
+86 185 8902 0279
For protection but through
PayPal or
Ali express if you go done the Yoho route
There are loads of seller personally I would not buy form these traders.
They are middle men I think.
Someone maybe able to chime in maybe SergK he is certainly more knowledgeable