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I bought the 105 di2 groupset (electronic parts only, without crankset, chain, cassette) from Yiwu Donglue Bicycle Parts for 550 EUR (after coupons) including tax and shipping (to Germany). I received genuine Shimano parts, everything works well including updating the parts to the newest software version. I completed it with a Magene PES 515 crankset, ZTTO full cnc cassette and KMC x12 waxed chain.
This setup was just over 900 EUR and for me is currently the best value for money I could get.

That's very interesting, as it becomes an apples to apples comparison with ltwoo er9. So, for 100-200 eur extra, you go from ltwoo to shimano, without having to buy overpriced / heavy cranksets, cassettes, rotors and so on. I assume it included the calipers?
ltwoo has flexibility shimano doesnt have, like changing the number of gears, but shimano is shimano, and you'd have to be on a very tight budget to dismiss this as a good option. And resale value. Simano di2 just sells, and will sell.
did you get 11 or 12s?

The warranty question remains though, idk how i feel about buying shimano parts on aliexpress, in case something goes wrong.
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Regards the data sheets it's more than noise.  ;D
And cold forging raises the stiffness due to grain boundary movements and gliding of layers..Basically a big "crash" crystallographically.. like traffic jam... nothing (atoms and layers)  can move that easy, cause everything is stuck. Well that's frankly a little bit too simple, but that's what happens.

While that is totally true, Sapim will 100% apply some form of heat treatment which will reverse some of the martensitic cristalline structure in the metal after cold forging. After that amount of forging, this spoke would be way too brittle otherwise. After all, the CX Ray is known for its exceptional fatigue resistance. I’ve never seen one break.
Since we know neither the exact alloy they’re made of nor the exact heat treatment process, it’s impossible to know how similar the Laser and the CX Ray really are in their metallic structure.

And apart from all that, they definitely feel different IME
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: TanTan TT-X38 Build
« Last post by ejump0 on Today at 02:00:44 AM »
as someone who ride this frame like a tribike (saddle so far fwd) with clipon aerobars on reach extenders, this frame is as close as it gets to a tri bike posi, at least as close almost equal my tt912. as your saddle go higher, the saddle isnt going further back (thus your seattube angle increases, like old plasma)
so i get it why Seb Kienle used a modded ScottFoil as tri bike (he's sponsored by Scott, but he still had access for top tier lightest Plasma if he wanted).
downside, missing toptube boss-mount for bento box, or any internal storage for tools.

if anyone on a budget for tri bike build, this frame is worth a consideration as its almost half(but dont include tri cockpit) of tt912 or other tri frame price. but you need to go full internal cabling, n i suggest go axs for least cable goin thru the top bearing
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Just asking, as Lasers and CX-Rays are supposed to have the same cross sectional area (which means exact same stiffness). Should be similar or the same with Revos and DT's CX-Ray counterpart.

No, they don't. Sapim give a tensile strength of 1500N /m2 for the Laser and 1600N / mm2 for the CX-Ray. But I don't even think it's that. I think it's different alloys in the steel as the much thicker Sapim Race and Sapim Strong have an even lower tensile strength according to Sapim. They also claim that the Laser is "highly flexible", which is exactly what it feels like IME. They do recommend the CX-Ray for nearly every use case including BMX and Downhill. But not the Laser. And that pretty much mirrors my experience having built wheels with both and also with the DT Revos (which are pretty much the same as Sapim Laser). I would not recommend them - at the very least on the rear drive side - for heavier riders. Wheels with these spokes feel noticeably flexier for the same spoke count compared to CX Rays.
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We made changes. HB-068 There is enough space to run the mechanical set. The handlebars are already listed on the spcycle official website. Friends in need can place an order.

https://www.sp-cycle.com/Spcycle-HB-068-Aero-Carbon-Gravel-Bike-Handlebar-Full-Hidden-Cable-Road-Integrated-Handlebar-With-Rest-Bar-p6435319.html

is this the same dimensions as the canyon gear groove bar?
regarding diameter of the beam etc..?
best regards
armin
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Broken pages suck indeed. Other features are still alright. Only mobile use is suboptimal.

Nevertheless - big thanks to admin  ;) :)
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We are modifying the mold and in the future we will only sell the following sizes
Handlebar width 380mm/400mm/420mm
Stem Length 80mm/90mm/100mm/110mm/120mm

That's definitely an improvement. Why not do 36cm though? I think you'd sell more 36/38/40 than 38/40/42.
I dont think anybody serious about cycling still CHOOSES to ride 42cm bars unless MAYBE they're a sprinter. And even then...
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Budget (sub 1k) Build recs
« Last post by Serge_K on Today at 01:08:35 AM »
If you cut a few corners and have time to hunt for parts, it's probably doable.
Assuming you buy new:
My daily driver is long teng 268, and it's cheap, but i'm completely happy with it (13,000km and counting). There's a trap door on the down tube, so you could run mechanical shifting without having to do tight bends (or you route everything through the headset ofc). Frame's fast, guaranteed, and arguably my bike is a superbike (whatever that means), so it wont hold you back.
Wheels, if you're a uni student, i assume you're light, so you can buy elite wheels from AliX when there's a sale. If you dont overthink the specs, you can get a capable wheelset for cheap.
Groupset. If you get semi hydraulic disc brakes, you can get a group for really, really cheap. Full hydraulic would still be cheap. I think everyone moved to full hydraulic, but my 1st gravel bike is semi hydro, and it does work.
A stem costs 10 eur, capable alu handlebars in 36cm wide cost 20.
Could be worth looking for 2nd hand groupset parts. Depending on where you live, could also make sense to buy wheels second hand.
Ignore 12s stuff, you can save money by doing 11s. Idk how 10s compares, as this really feels dated. We still run 11s.
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P515 PES Spider Powermeter
« Last post by ktryoji on June 05, 2025, 11:05:38 PM »
On one bike I have a GRX 810 FD with an Ultegra crankset and no issues.
The GRX FD has a wider range and can be easily adjusted.
I have an Ultegra FD with a GRX 600 crankset on anorher bike and it works more than reasonably well.
The only issue is that the chain slightly touches the FD while on the smallest sprockets and I couldn't get rid of it yet.

Now you make me really want to get one… For your other bike, was the grx fd clamped on or brazed?
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Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P515 PES Spider Powermeter
« Last post by ktryoji on June 05, 2025, 11:04:28 PM »
I'm not sure to understand what you mean.
I replaced an Ultegra crankset with a GRX 600, I didn't add any spacer and I don't see any play.
Beside, road cranks and "Gravel" ones are made for the same BB size.

Interesting, I guess the chain line difference is just cassette spacing then?
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