Regards the data sheets it's more than noise. 
And cold forging raises the stiffness due to grain boundary movements and gliding of layers..Basically a big "crash" crystallographically.. like traffic jam... nothing (atoms and layers)  can move that easy, cause everything is stuck. Well that's frankly a little bit too simple, but that's what happens.

While that is totally true, Sapim will 100% apply some form of heat treatment which will reverse some of the martensitic cristalline structure in the metal after cold forging. After that amount of forging, this spoke would be way too brittle otherwise. After all, the CX Ray is known for its exceptional fatigue resistance. I’ve never seen one break.
Since we know neither the exact alloy they’re made of nor the exact heat treatment process, it’s impossible to know how similar the Laser and the CX Ray really are in their metallic structure.

And apart from all that, they definitely feel different IME

Just asking, as Lasers and CX-Rays are supposed to have the same cross sectional area (which means exact same stiffness). Should be similar or the same with Revos and DT's CX-Ray counterpart.

No, they don't. Sapim give a tensile strength of 1500N /m2 for the Laser and 1600N / mm2 for the CX-Ray. But I don't even think it's that. I think it's different alloys in the steel as the much thicker Sapim Race and Sapim Strong have an even lower tensile strength according to Sapim. They also claim that the Laser is "highly flexible", which is exactly what it feels like IME. They do recommend the CX-Ray for nearly every use case including BMX and Downhill. But not the Laser. And that pretty much mirrors my experience having built wheels with both and also with the DT Revos (which are pretty much the same as Sapim Laser). I would not recommend them - at the very least on the rear drive side - for heavier riders. Wheels with these spokes feel noticeably flexier for the same spoke count compared to CX Rays.

Broken pages suck indeed. Other features are still alright. Only mobile use is suboptimal.

Nevertheless - big thanks to admin 

If you cut a few corners and have time to hunt for parts, it's probably doable.
Assuming you buy new:
My daily driver is long teng 268, and it's cheap, but i'm completely happy with it (13,000km and counting). There's a trap door on the down tube, so you could run mechanical shifting without having to do tight bends (or you route everything through the headset ofc). Frame's fast, guaranteed, and arguably my bike is a superbike (whatever that means), so it wont hold you back.
Wheels, if you're a uni student, i assume you're light, so you can buy elite wheels from AliX when there's a sale. If you dont overthink the specs, you can get a capable wheelset for cheap.
Groupset. If you get semi hydraulic disc brakes, you can get a group for really, really cheap. Full hydraulic would still be cheap. I think everyone moved to full hydraulic, but my 1st gravel bike is semi hydro, and it does work.
A stem costs 10 eur, capable alu handlebars in 36cm wide cost 20.
Could be worth looking for 2nd hand groupset parts. Depending on where you live, could also make sense to buy wheels second hand.
Ignore 12s stuff, you can save money by doing 11s. Idk how 10s compares, as this really feels dated. We still run 11s.

I'm not sure to understand what you mean.
I replaced an Ultegra crankset with a GRX 600, I didn't add any spacer and I don't see any play.
Beside, road cranks and "Gravel" ones are made for the same BB size.

Interesting, I guess the chain line difference is just cassette spacing then?