Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Colt__Seavers on January 04, 2021, 02:48:53 AM
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New light weight XC fully frame 100/100 travel coming up.
Available from June 2021 the earliest.
http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/130.html
(https://i.ibb.co/qgNTkpk/Screenshot-2021-01-04-09-43-23-95.jpg)
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Pretty much the same geometry as the 936. I like the two water bottle mounts.
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Pretty much the same geometry as the 936. I like the two water bottle mounts.
That is a clear advantage of having the shock horizontal, instead of vertical.
Are there any others? Weight of the pivot? Better anti squat?
Or disadvantages?
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Very easy access to the shock controls even w/o a remote.
Looks like it could be a little brother to my Fezarri Signal Peak, but with bigger brother geo. ;-)
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beautiful .... price?
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This is from another thread
Carbonda introduced new model FM 909 on their website. Lighter frame, comparable geometry and different shock mount.
Received following reply:
Thanks for your inquiry.
This is the new model for 2021 year.
United price 950USD/pcs
And 1st batch should be done on May or June.
The best regards!
Adam
If you look at carbonda website there is only one version aka the superlight.
It's a bit expensive compared to the normal version of fm936 which has the same geometry but you gain 250 grams and 1 slot for bottle cage.
If you consider the cost of shipping and a shock it's nearly the price of a good sale on a branded frame :o
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We going to start a group buy? I'm in.
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That is a clear advantage of having the shock horizontal, instead of vertical.
Are there any others? Weight of the pivot? Better anti squat?
Or disadvantages?
Cable routing looks cleaner. I find it hard to clean the 936 under/behind the shock.
The ISG tabs are interesting. I don’t find them necessary for my riding but some may.
It looks like an Epic while the 936 looks like a Spark.
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IMO those 2 bolt ISG tabs are good for chain retention devices only, not for bash guards. Look like they'd break off easily if used for bash protection.
I haven't been able to see exactly where the cables transfer from the front triangle to the rear stays? I hate the under the BB design, housing exposed under there always gets knackered eventually and all the ones I've seen so far also eat into the carbon shell down there from the suspension movement.
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It looks like Flybike FM1206 that is claimed to 1950g normal and 1650g (!!) super light
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/179.html
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It looks like Flybike FM1206 that is claimed to 1950g normal and 1650g (!!) super light
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/179.html
Yeah... we discovered few months ago where Carbonda get their nice frames from 8)
Flybike seems B2B only.
Still unsure if going direct with Flybike will not be more pains than gains, than through Carbonda service(paint, more shipping options, QC before shipping,...).
Well... @PappaZ was quite successful with it recently: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3028.msg24692.html
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AHHHH they're not the manufacturer? wow, make it more surprising that their website is not great!
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Yeah... we discovered few months ago where Carbonda get their nice frames from 8)
Flybike seems B2B only.
Still unsure if going direct with Flybike will not be more pains than gains, than through Carbonda service(paint, more shipping options, QC before shipping,...).
Well... @PappaZ was quite successful with it recently: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3028.msg24692.html
Ah okay :-)
Flybike say SL 1 650g and carbonda 1 750g, who's right ? ;D
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Ah okay :-)
Flybike say SL 1 650g and carbonda 1 750g, who's right ? ;D
1650 without paint and 1750 with paint;)
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AHHHH they're not the manufacturer? wow, make it more surprising that their website is not great!
Well it is not that clear as usual when you try to know where frames are really coming from.
@Sissypants who seems living there or well connected, said something like Carbonda had a good engineering team, that they were designing/making molds, etc.
As long as they provide great frames and keep their excellent service, we don't really need a nice web site 8)
Flybike's site is quite impressive though.
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Flybike is the manufacturer of all Carbonda farmes. Carbonda is a flybike subsidiary company.
FM stands for Flybike Mold as far as I know.
If you pay Carbonda, you pay Flybike. Carbonda is mainly for the non-OEM customers.
Most of the flybike frames are OEM only. Some like the CFR696 (there is also a FM name for it) or the FM936 are also availanble for non-OEM.
Source: Carbonda staff
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1650 without paint and 1750 with paint;)
Or maybe they don't want us complaining for grams anymore, taking a reserve.
And we'll then say... wow, my XL is 50g less than advertised ! :D
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If this has the same (or nearly) geometry as the FM936, then I shouldn't expect any ill behavior with a 120mm fork, right? I would like to know if, similar to the FM936, a longer rear shock might get us into the 110-120mm travel range. I suppose we'll see as this gets into the hands of OEMs and the general public.
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My friend has already ordered a medium size of this.
It will be ready in March or so.
I have a FM936 in size M and am looking forward to comparing the ride. I think I will be able to tell a lot of difference between the two as the suspension will be exactly the same.
…Maybe I won't be able to tell the difference, lol.
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My friend has already ordered a medium size of this.
It will be ready in March or so.
I have a FM936 in size M and am looking forward to comparing the ride. I think I will be able to tell a lot of difference between the two as the suspension will be exactly the same.
…Maybe I won't be able to tell the difference, lol.
Did you make the purchase on the Carbonda website or through Alibaba?
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He bought it from Carbonda directly.
Did you make the purchase on the Carbonda website or through Alibaba?
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Would like to get one of these for my son to race next season. Is there a group buy? I have been in contact with wing and I'm about to put a deposit down.
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Would like to get one of these for my son to race next season. Is there a group buy? I have been in contact with wing and I'm about to put a deposit down.
There is no group buy on this one, only on the Santa Cruz clone.
No worries for your deposit, you are in good hands with Wing.
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ATTENTION! SCAMMER/FRAUD ALERT
Don't fall for anyone trying to sell you carbonda stuff for a low price over WhatsApp and with suspicious payment methods. Just got word from Wing.
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My friend has already ordered a medium size of this.
It will be ready in March or so.
Did your friend receive their frame yet?
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I expected it to be a little more expensive than the average generic "high end", but not that much!
I sent an inquiry today and here is Wing's answer :
- FM 909 : US$ 950
- FM 909 + handlebar HB156 : US$ 1060
- headset : US$ 15
- rear axle : US$ 15
- shipping cost for one frame set : 3-10 days : US$ 230 / 15-35 days , Tax free : US$190
- standard matte : free
- UD glossy，black matte, black glossy :US$ 45
- One color: US$ 70.00
So for the frame in UD glossy finish, delivered, with handlebar, headset and rear axle there is something for USD1325, which is approximately equivalent to 1107€.
I was ready to take the plunge for this frame, I will change my mind.
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edit, ignore me, misread
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I expected it to be a little more expensive than the average generic "high end", but not that much!
I sent an inquiry today and here is Wing's answer :
- FM 909 : US$ 950
- FM 909 + handlebar HB156 : US$ 1060
- headset : US$ 15
- rear axle : US$ 15
- shipping cost for one frame set : 3-10 days : US$ 230 / 15-35 days , Tax free : US$190
- standard matte : free
- UD glossy，black matte, black glossy :US$ 45
- One color: US$ 70.00
So for the frame in UD glossy finish, delivered, with handlebar, headset and rear axle there is something for USD1325, which is approximately equivalent to 1107€.
I was ready to take the plunge for this frame, I will change my mind.
I know it's not inexpensive, but it's still half what something similar would cost from one of the majors.
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Do I understand the handlebars correctly, do they support internal cable routing?
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Do I understand the handlebars correctly, do they support internal cable routing?
Yes exactly, I asked the question and they confirmed to me that it was drilled to pass the cables inside so that they could then go into the head tube.
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Yes exactly, I asked the question and they confirmed to me that it was drilled to pass the cables inside so that they could then go into the head tube.
Perfect. This is what I've wanted to try on my next build. AXS and internal routing.
So did we confirm if it's possible to set this frame up to be closer to 120mm rear travel like the FM936? That would be my preference "down-country" XC bike with ultralight weight.
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just had to replace the headset bearings on my madone slr (a lot earlier than usual) mostly from sweat getting into them from so much riding indoors during covid. considering that my MTB's generally go through headset bearings far more quickly than my road bikes, i'd either want the absolute most bomb proof bearings i could find or never run internal cables through the bars and headtube on my MTB. it's just a huge pain for an otherwise basic maintenance task.
i'm running etap on the madone so it was only brake housing i was having to mess with but just a ridiculously time consuming process for something that should have otherwise been a 20 minute job.
with that said, i know why you want to do it! :D
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I suppose I didn't consider the hassle of bearing service. Seems to me someone needs to invent a quick disconnect for brake lines that doesn't leak when disconnected.
I've been fortunate with my headset bearings. It's nice and dry here in AZ and I've got 7 years/7-8k miles on mine. They're a bit lose now, but still fine for use.
EDIT: The disconnects exist! But that price...
https://22bicycles.com/products/brake-break-hydraulic-disconnect
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I didn't think about it either :o
It is generally the bottom one that fails.
There are stainless steel bearings.
Like this one: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK9FYwJ
They last much longer.
Pour generously marine grease on top for even longer usage.
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I read FM936 the whole thread and FM 936 used by many brands like NS bikes, Vitus, Steven.. etc.
Is this FM909 frame also used for any brand?
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I read FM936 the whole thread and FM 936 used by many brands like NS bikes, Vitus, Steven.. etc.
Is this FM909 frame also used for any brand?
It is new. Time will tell.
But Carbonda seems good at selling their frames to brands.
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@carbonazza
Would it be safe to assume the availability of the 909 frame ties in with the release of a manufacturer releasing a bike using this frame?
Do you reckon a 909 would have a harsher/firmer ride comparative to the 936?
Cheers, John
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@carbonazza
Would it be safe to assume the availability of the 909 frame ties in with the release of a manufacturer releasing a bike using this frame?
Do you reckon a 909 would have a harsher/firmer ride comparative to the 936?
Cheers, John
No idea. Did you ask Carbonda already?
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Yep, kinda. Carbonda won't disclose commercial information ie who is using their frames.
Haven't asked about the ride quality of 909 vs 936.
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Who saw this on pinkbike.
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Not even close. Trunion vs Standard Shock mount. Kinked top tube vs straight (although that might be size related). Swingarm shape near main pivot is quite different. Swingarm near rear axle is quite different. Headtube shape and cable ports are quite different. Shock link is quite different.
So basically they share the generic top tube mounted shock, single pivot with flex suspenion layout which has become very common in recent years but absolutely zero chance they come from the same moulds.
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SC main pivot is fwd of the BB too.
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Still, no one got the frame?
I am waiting for a review for this frame.
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My posting the comparison photos were only to show SC using a flex stay design like many of these other new bikes. Not to say they were identical. I have pre-ordered a 909 for my son to race on next season and I'm hoping it serves us well. A team mate is racing the other model (936) and loving it.
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The design is more look like Orbea Oiz. The geometry is not.
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They just sent the picture of my 909 painted.
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They just sent the picture of my 909 painted.
Looks great.
Did you opt for the handlebar/stem combo it's shown with on their site (the one that allows internal cable routing)?
So you know if this frame can be run 120mm front/rear like the FM936.
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They just sent the picture of my 909 painted.
Can't wait to see your review about actual weight, internal cable routing and others things.
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Where do the cables transition from the front triangle to the chainstays for rear brake & der?
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no, i didnt order the integrated handlebar. i am not a big fan of internal routing. keep cables outside as much as possible for easier maintenance. No idea how the cables go out and in around pivots. I will update.
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Cable routing near the pivot. going upper of BB shell, goes to chain stay.
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That is pretty slick. Thanks for the pic.
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well, a bit of concern i have. this place keep open and close with the swing arm movement. if the rubber grommet is too tight, it prevents swing. If the housing is too long, it will knock the frame inside and make noises. If the housing is too short, maybe i got the ghost shifting problem. It is the reason why A lot of frame has the housing outgoing from the bottom of the down tube under the bottle cage and dive in again at the chain stay to make cable length margin.
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well, a bit of concern i have. this place keep open and close with the swing arm movement. if the rubber grommet is too tight, it prevents swing. If the housing is too long, it will knock the frame inside and make noises. If the housing is too short, maybe i got the ghost shifting problem. It is the reason why A lot of frame has the housing outgoing from the bottom of the down tube under the bottle cage and dive in again at the chain stay to make cable length margin.
The Stumpjumper has the same kind of connection
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How do you guys pay in the US?
I was given 3 options.
1,Bank transfer (You will bear the bank transaction fees for both sides ) ,
2,alibaba ( your bank transaction fees : ? %)(we charges you 1% transaction fees )
3,paypal , 4.5% transaction fees .
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I used Wise (formerly transferwise) for a bank transfer to Yoeleo. Very low cost and fast.
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How do you guys pay in the US?
I was given 3 options.
1,Bank transfer (You will bear the bank transaction fees for both sides ) ,
2,alibaba ( your bank transaction fees : ? %)(we charges you 1% transaction fees )
3,paypal , 4.5% transaction fees .
PayPal as family & friends.
4€ of costs.
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PP, but not F&F.
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Payment was PayPay. 4% is for me, cost to escalate claim in case of trouble.
Right. Specialized recent bike but they have big hole at front side. outer housing can move feely. Hope flybike follows similar design.
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So you know if this frame can be run 120mm front/rear like the FM936.
I'd like to know this as well. I asked if 165 x 45 would work, but he responded with please use 165x40.
I'm not real sure the FM936 is a 165x42.5 is 120. The site says 165x40 is 100mm. I think NS bikes uses a different rear end with the same front triangle. NS bikes has a 165x38.5 for their 100mm bike.
Edit: Wing said anything but the 165x40 voids the warranty
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I'd like to know this as well. I asked if 165 x 45 would work, but he responded with please use 165x40.
I'm not real sure the FM936 is a 165x42.5 is 120. The site says 165x40 is 100mm. I think NS bikes uses a different rear end with the same front triangle. NS bikes has a 165x38.5 for their 100mm bike.
Use what Carbonda tells you to use!
With the FM936 people found out that a 165x42,5 fits and a 165x45 definitely don't! There is no such experience with 909.
By the way, the 42,5 over a 40mm won't give you 120mm instead of 100mm. More like 106mm.
The NS used a whole different triangle
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Arrived. 1827g with all mouting bolts, RD hanger, cable liners, outer housing bushings. No bottle cage bolts, no shock, no protection plastics, no seatpost clamp, no headset, no BB.
all bearing rotation is far from smooth (but i dont care too much). Shock bushing 8x30mm (8mm diameter x 30mm L to R) required (may not be included). I am contacting to seller but maybe i have to buy separately.
Any question?
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Is that a medium or large frame? Thanks
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I'm not real sure the FM936 is a 165x42.5 is 120. The site says 165x40 is 100mm. I think NS bikes uses a different rear end with the same front triangle. NS bikes has a 165x38.5 for their 100mm bike.
Use what Carbonda tells you to use!
With the FM936 people found out that a 165x42,5 fits and a 165x45 definitely don't! There is no such experience with 909.
By the way, the 42,5 over a 40mm won't give you 120mm instead of 100mm. More like 106mm.
I believe the NS does use the same rear triangle, there is some flex to the rear triangle you have to take into account and NS is probably doing what everyone else does. NS probably probably measured "About 112mm of travel?" and said "that's close enough to 120mm". There was one post in the FM936 thread where someone took their frame & 42.5mm shock and measured ~11Xmm of travel unscientifically. That's close enough.
At the end of the day, wait until you have the frame in hand okayestMTBer, you can then see if a 42.5/45mm will work. Or just slap a 40mm in there and call it good enough like the OEMs do.
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I believe the NS does use the same rear triangle, there is some flex to the rear triangle you have to take into account and NS is probably doing what everyone else does. NS probably said "About 112mm of travel?" "that's close enough to 120mm". There was one post in the FM936 thread where someone took their frame & 42.5mm shock and measured ~11Xmm of travel unscientifically. That's close enough.
At the end of the day, wait until you have the frame in hand okayestMTBer, you can then see if a 42.5/45mm will work. Or just slap a 40mm in there and call it good enough like the OEMs do.
Carbonda has confirmed that NS does use a proprietary rear triangle, in addition to the NS rear triangle being visually different to the FM936 and any other company using the frame.
Also, NS uses a 38.5mm for the 100mm travel and 40mm for 120mm, in direct contrast to Carbonda's suggestion for 40=100 and end users with 42.5 getting ~110.
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Carbonda has confirmed that NS does use a proprietary rear triangle, in addition to the NS rear triangle being visually different to the FM936 and any other company using the frame.
You are right, I do see the differences now. The Vitus is identical.
Also, NS uses a 38.5mm for the 100mm travel and 40mm for 120mm, in direct contrast to Carbonda's suggestion for 40=100 and end users with 42.5 getting ~110.
Site says 42.5 fox performance on the TR1. Nevertheless, I am now noticing the linkage is ever so slightly different which makes a big difference in travel.
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Is that a medium or large frame? Thanks
My 1827g Frame is the medium. so their 17xxg claimed is maybe bear non painted frame.
just one dropper cable is routed. Internal routing is tough.
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Is very pretty. Maybe I expected it to be lighter. I hope they send it to me in July.
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Is very pretty. Maybe I expected it to be lighter. I hope they send it to me in July.
Thanks.
BTW, You will find 8x30mm bushing is not very common. I just asked Carbonda to find, and now they are talking to supplier. If it is not too late, maybe you can ask them to include in your shipping.
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Just done the most painful part, routings. Rear brake routing is really hard to go though. Right DS chainstay has an tunnel to go though, so RD outter housing is easy. Real pain is rear brake route.
I think you must disassemble the rear swing arm to route, but when I did so, pivot points scratch each other and making paint tips. I am not sure the best way to avoid the paint scratch since engagement is really tight. So if you cant allow any small flaw in the paint, maybe you need a special wiring tool especially for hydraulic hose. Once you pass the chain stay and get in to the front triangle, BB part and downtube part is much much easier to go.
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how's the build going?
I am waiting for your review on this frame.
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hahaha, sorry. my dialy job for live, makes me busy these days, and still wait for some parts. mainly bushing.
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Slower but going ahead
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Fine looking bike. And ready to bunny hop ;D
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Great looking bike! Did it take long for carbonda to get back to you? I emailed them early last week but still no response.
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I was talking to Carbonda Adam via Skype. He usually responds very soon.
Rear boost OLD is a bit too wide, measured as 150.0mm, wheel ends goes beyond its slot, a bit annoying when i put.
Ride is good. not as nimble as EPIC FS but decending fast. it is not that stiff but not feeling major flex.
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Looks great. You weren't tempted to go with the routing through the headset?
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Thanks! Got in touch with wing. Ordered in! Matte black UD. Was going to get it painted but I'd rather keep this one light. Delivery hopefully in August to Hong Kong. Look forward to getting the build sorted for the winter riding season.
Going with 100mm on the rear and at this stage looking at maybe going 120mm on the front. Struggling to get my hands on a sidluxe ultimate though. No one has stock that can ship it.
Also I'll probably build it with Level ULT or TLM and 34t XX1 AXS. Already have a pair of EIE carbon XC wheels with 240exp's.
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Looks great. You weren't tempted to go with the routing through the headset?
No, totally not. Even I hate any internal.
The difference they told was that, headset top cap only, it has a hole to get cables in. that's it. Frame keep its holes but just have blank fillers for holes. fillers come with frames. So choice is headset top cap only.
Even mines, the centering sleeve is "C" shape to allow cables go though. but we have four cables right? RD cable, Rear brake, rear lockout and dropper. Not sure I can put everything in the space of "C" honestly.
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Hi everyone. New here on Chinertown. I´ve built four chinese 29ers and i love them. Now I have ordered a 909 from Carbonda. I´ve had my conversation with Wing who says she/he doesnt know anything about how you can order the handlebar shown on the website.
Anyone who can fill the blanks? I´m interested in a clean cockpit.
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I requested a quote for the handlebar too and was told it was not in production. The handlebar is on the flybike website. It's called hb 156 http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/217.html I don't know if it'll ever be available without ordering a commercial quality. I ordered one of these handlebars (thanks carbonza) https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32967312663.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.store_m_allProduct.allProducts_11695160.32967312663
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I requested a quote for the handlebar too and was told it was not in production. The handlebar is on the flybike website. It's called hb 156 http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/217.html I don't know if it'll ever be available without ordering a commercial quality. I ordered one of these handlebars (thanks carbonza) https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32967312663.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.store_m_allProduct.allProducts_11695160.32967312663
Beware this is not an internal routing handlebar.
There is no way to pass the cables through the headset if you want it fully integrated.
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Hi Guys. I am trying to get in contact with Carbonda. The don't respond to mails. What is the best way to contact them. Thanks Regards Cris
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Dangerholm uses Syncros IC SL handlebar for internal routing. He drills holes handlebar.
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Beware this is not an internal routing handlebar.
There is no way to pass the cables through the headset if you want it fully integrated.
I already have the handlebar linked to on my other bikes. I really like it, but it is not suitable for internal routing.
I am a little dissatisfied with Carbondas inability to guide their customers to a result similar to the pictures of the frame shown on their website. I think it is quite strange to show a solution in a picture and thereby attract customers, but not be able to assist with any information on how this can be built.
Does anyone else know where you can buy parts to run cables through the headset and handlebar?
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Workswell list a handlebar which might suit although it appears to currently only be renders so I suspect its not yet in production.
https://www.workswellbikes.com/MTB/whb-051.html
Token have some headsets and stems avaliable. Not sure exactly where you can purchase them though.
https://www.tokenproducts.com/headsets/525-cable-box
FSA have their ICR series of products although I'm not sure there have a headset to suit this frame. Link to the stem below which shows the setup.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/stems/stems/mtb/ns-icr-stem
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Dangerholm uses Syncros IC SL handlebar for internal routing. He drills holes handlebar.
Really ?!? I didn't see that.
Do you have a link with some details ?
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There is a lot on his Instagram profile.
He’s a cool guy!
https://www.instagram.com/reel/COLXVC7BM9e/?utm_medium=copy_link
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Workswell list a handlebar which might suit although it appears to currently only be renders so I suspect its not yet in production.
https://www.workswellbikes.com/MTB/whb-051.html
Token have some headsets and stems avaliable. Not sure exactly where you can purchase them though.
https://www.tokenproducts.com/headsets/525-cable-box
FSA have their ICR series of products although I'm not sure there have a headset to suit this frame. Link to the stem below which shows the setup.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/stems/stems/mtb/ns-icr-stem
Fantastic!
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There is a lot on his Instagram profile.
He’s a cool guy!
https://www.instagram.com/reel/COLXVC7BM9e/?utm_medium=copy_link
Ok, I knew his instagram, but I didn't spot the part about drilling the bars
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Strongly considering getting one of these. Any thoughts on whether I should go with the ICAN version or the Carbonda version and why?
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Ordered one of these in the Super Lite version almost 2 months ago I was told it should be delivered in June but now being told that the superlite delivery is being pushed back to maybe October due to engineering issues and frame testing.
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Ordered one of these in the Super Lite version almost 2 months ago I was told it should be delivered in June but now being told that the superlite delivery is being pushed back to maybe October due to engineering issues and frame testing.
Damn. I got one on order too. They obviously found an issue with the structural integrity that needs to be resolved.
The alternative is that we get the frame on time, break it, commence a warranty claim and be down a bike for months waiting for a replacement frame.
It's crap they are delayed, but better than the alternative.
If anything, I find it reassuring ie Carbonda's quality control and testing is of a high standard.
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I am OK with waiting but my son is a bit ancy. It's going to be his new race bike and we have collected all the parts. He will just have to stay on his hard tail for a bit longer.
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It's weird when you got a note saying it's pushed back when people have already had deliveries. I have an order in and was told August. No updates given yet to me though.
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I requested frame, and now I am planning to buy a shock. I read this topic from start and yeah there are some discussion about sizes of shock but no answers so will 165x42,5 fit?
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This is what I received.
Also has anyone had a shipping update of October? I saw above that someone was quoted that but I haven't had an update yet.
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I’ve ordered a frame in the end of june. Said it will be shipped in october
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Got confirmation that my August ship date is October or later... Not exactly impressed that I had to go speak to them to find out that there would be a minimum 2 month delay and probably longer.
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any more updates? any others got theirs built?
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Latest update from wing, production starting Oct 20th.
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Hi folks,
checking my understanding here: the 909 is pretty much identical to the 936 in geometry, weight and shock length, but has space for 2 bottles instead of 1, slightly different cable routing and chain guide tabs. Is that it? Any differences on stiffness known?
Cheers
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Hi folks,
checking my understanding here: the 909 is pretty much identical to the 936 in geometry, weight and shock length, but has space for 2 bottles instead of 1, slightly different cable routing and chain guide tabs. Is that it? Any differences on stiffness known?
Cheers
Pretty much. However, weight is ~100g less. Stiffness is unknown and ride feel is dependent on what suspension you install.
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Reading at technical specs, I’ve not understood if it mounts tapered or straight forks. Any clue? ???
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1.5 Inch top and bottom bearing so you can run whatever fork you want with a suitable headset.
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They have not contacted me again. And they told me that production would start now in October. :-\
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Following my last information from Carbonda regarding the FM909 Frame ( Dated: Oct. 20/2021)
Hello Arno Knell
Glad hear from you
One set of sample FM 909 ;US$ 950
heatset : US$15
rear axle : US$15
need wait to the early November
FM 909 only have thread BSA-73
Kind Regards
Wing
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You can't trust them. I can cancelled my order. They give no info on this frame and just keep pushing the date back further and further.
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they asked me 100$ to book a frame. ::).. but could be this frame is like FM936, so before anything else the "famous brand" owner should present a bike made with the FM909 frame...
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Before going in hyperbole, just remember you are your own importer when buying frames.
It is not a shop you get immediately what you buy.
And sometimes no small patience is required.
Add to this the cultural difference, and there is room for plenty of misunderstanding.
Carbonda is generally a great company to deal with, but glitches may happen everywhere.
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I am really astonished about some statements..
Did you ever see something finished just in time? Development usually has delay. Of course it's sad to wait. But currently the world is far away from normal. Besides Corona China suffers from a big lack of electricity.. did you know that? It's hard to produce something when you have no power to run the machines.
Also the 707 frame was postponed several times. Now the first owners are already using their bikes. The 909 will come to us. It just takes time. Unfortunately longer than expected. But this is the same story if you order a complete bike, that is not standing around already.
The 100$ predeposit is kind of fair deal. For other goods you have to make a much bigger predeposit ...
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There are some good news from my order.
Seemingly my frame has already come to life.
I got the information from Katie that it will be painted next week.
:) Yes i am excited. Although I don't think it will be here before January.
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We want to know everything! Color scheme, decals, picture of frame before shipment ;D
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We want to know everything! Color scheme, decals, picture of frame before shipment ;D
So far no picture. Colour will be carbon raw with a blue top coat. So the carbon structure will shine throught the blue top coat.
I will cut decals on my own, which is why I am not sure about the colour yet. Gold, copper, bronze or teal are options. Or white,
holo, grey.... . I would like a brushed metallic surface for the decals.
Also I was a bit crazy and will take the integrated cockpit. If that's not working out there are headset options to run a conventional stem and handlebar. I just couldn't say no to that.
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So ere are headset options to run a conventional stem and handlebar. I just couldn't say no to that.
Thanks for sharing! It should look beautiful. I haven't asked but can you tell the price for the integrated cockpit?
Thanks
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So far no picture. Colour will be carbon raw with a blue top coat. So the carbon structure will shine throught the blue top coat.
I will cut decals on my own, which is why I am not sure about the colour yet. Gold, copper, bronze or teal are options. Or white,
holo, grey.... . I would like a brushed metallic surface for the decals.
Also I was a bit crazy and will take the integrated cockpit. If that's not working out there are headset options to run a conventional stem and handlebar. I just couldn't say no to that.
Good morning Pedaldancer!
I know you from CFR696 thread @ mtb-news .... nice to meet you here!
It seems I am straight on the way to do something similar you do.
I am wondering which integrated cockpit your are planning to use - can you share a link, please?
Warm regards,
Michael (rollo74)
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Pedaldancer I am interested in this finish you are talking about. Do you have a picture, maybe just from the web, of the "carbon structure" you are expecting to see?
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Pedaldancer I am interested in this finish you are talking about. Do you have a picture, maybe just from the web, of the "carbon structure" you are expecting to see?
As i lost most of my recent downloads.. i only have two images left. I'd expect nice silky UD structures.
But you can google raw carbon. The orbea oiz for example, had blue carbon raw. Cube has a red carbon raw design. Seemingly the brighter the color the more you will see from the carbon structure.
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OK, those pics look just like blue paint to me, maybe with a bit of a fleck through it. I was concerned because I thought you might have been expecting to see a 3 or 12k weave through a translucent paint.
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OK, those pics look just like blue paint to me, maybe with a bit of a fleck through it. I was concerned because I thought you might have been expecting to see a 3 or 12k weave through a translucent paint.
It's not possible to see 3k or 12k if it's not on the top layer....i had a short video sequence where you could see the effect.
No it's not a very outstanding flashy effect. Reluctant... I already possess a sparkling bike.. ;D
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My FM936 has this translucent effect.
Kind of blue, and some transparent area.
Except some special sheets around the BB and pivots, it is a rather dull UD all the way.
So it makes a subtle effect you can only notice really on a bright sunny day.
I didn't know they had to sand it down first.
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It's not possible to see 3k or 12k if it's not on the top layer....i had a short video sequence where you could see the effect.
No it's not a very outstanding flashy effect. Reluctant... I already possess a sparkling bike.. ;D
I am well aware of that, I wasn't sure if you were the way you were describing the finish you wanted. That's why I asked.
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I am well aware of that, I wasn't sure if you were the way you were describing the finish you wanted. That's why I asked.
I never wrote that I expect a 3K or 12K weave design to be visible. You should maybe not put to much of your interpretation into other persons words. UD is also a carbon structure, not only 3K/12k weave types.
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My FM936 has this translucent effect.
Kind of blue, and some transparent area.
Except some special sheets around the BB and pivots, it is a rather dull UD all the way.
So it makes a subtle effect you can only notice really on a bright sunny day.
I didn't know they had to sand it down first.
So the photo shows possibly your frame?
The subtle effect is exactly what I want. I have some Lightbicycle rims and you can the ud structure shines a bit through the top layer.
Also tested a Specialized Epic which was black raw carbon matte. There were not too many different patches UD on that frame and the very subtle effect was great, although the matte finish really damped the overall visibility.
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I never wrote that I expect a 3K or 12K weave design to be visible. You should maybe not put to much of your interpretation into other persons words. UD is also a carbon structure, not only 3K/12k weave types.
...and I never said you did say that. "You should maybe not put to much of your interpretation into other persons words."
I was concerned that you may have been a novice and had a different understanding of what raw or bare carbon would look like. Sorry for trying to help.
Have at it.
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...and I never said you did say that. "You should maybe not put to much of your interpretation into other persons words."
I was concerned that you may have been a novice and had a different understanding of what raw or bare carbon would look like. Sorry for trying to help.
Have at it.
If this was offensive, I apologize - and nope I can take your concern away of being a novice.
I usually ask if I have something unclear - which I cleared already with Katie base on a couple of pics and a short video sequence.
How strong the UD will be visible depends also strongly on the amount of deposited pigments - which in any case will depend on the capaibilites of the painter. However, that's part of the game, also if the paint job is done somewhere here. As long as it won't be painted fuchsia, I am fine with whatever I will get.
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...as I was asking for a handlebar with full integration...
What brakes do you plan to put and how do you plan to route the hose in the bar ?
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What brakes do you plan to put and how do you plan to route the hose in the bar ?
Not the person you were asking but I think I'm going to try the internal bar routing thing. My current plan is to use some Maguras. You can purchase a fitting to change the hose exit angle. TrickStuff Piccola would be my preference but I'm not made of money :'(
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Not the person you were asking but I think I'm going to try the internal bar routing thing. My current plan is to use some Maguras. You can purchase a fitting to change the hose exit angle. TrickStuff Piccola would be my preference but I'm not made of money :'(
I just compared Magura and Shimano levers. Looks like the angle for the brake hose is really different, so it's good that Magura has an option to change the angle .
Besides that a bit of bending does not hurt the brake hoses. If you compare to road bike ... there the bending is quite strong on the handlebar.
I am still waiting for the photo that my frame has been painted
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My frame is already being painted. Do you know if you can mount a standard shock absorber instead of one with a trunnion anchor?
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My frame is already being painted. Do you know if you can mount a standard shock absorber instead of one with a trunnion anchor?
I know that there are weird adapter solutions, but you loose travel..so I would say 100mm is already not so much:No, trunnion needs trunnion.
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The fm909 frame was sent to me today :)
Hi, I'm looking forward to your build and feedback after your first rides. I am thinking about my first FS bike since 26 wheel FS times (GT i-Drive) and can't decide yet: 936 or 909.
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Do we know something more precise about the weight?
Size L seems to be 1950 +-30 (I’ve asked them), website of carbonda says 1750, while flybike says Normal 1950, Super light 1650.
Thanks
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I asked yesterday. He stated 1800g+-30g for a size large.
I actually decided against it, and go with the lexon riot.
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1800 gr is also new to me for a L size, could it be the difference between the normal and the super light?
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He told me there's only one (superlight) version.
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i trust Carbonda post-sales support, i'm expecting the new FM909 will be supported like previous models.
at 1800 gr in L size is 330 gr lighter than the Lexon Riot. 8)
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i trust Carbonda post-sales support, i'm expecting the new FM909 will be supported like previous models.
at 1800 gr in L size is 330 gr lighter than the Lexon Riot. 8)
And also with a much more current geometry.
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Don't get me wrong. I was very interested in this frame. In the end, there were a bunch of factors that made me choose the riot over this one. A lot of it has to do with parts that i had that would fit the riot, and not this frame, purchase price, availability, and to an extent the weight (or rather the unknown of the reliability). If a year from now, the frame looks solid, then I may revisit. for now, I'll let others be the guinea pigs. ;), I've saved a lot of weight on all my parts so that I'm ok with putting some meat on the frame.
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Don't get me wrong. I....I've saved a lot of weight on all my parts so that I'm ok with putting some meat on the frame.
no worries, i've got already two friends with their RIOT and they are super happy, in the white version looks beautiful. enjoy and don't forget to send pictures!
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Not the person you were asking but I think I'm going to try the internal bar routing thing. My current plan is to use some Maguras. You can purchase a fitting to change the hose exit angle. TrickStuff Piccola would be my preference but I'm not made of money :'(
Besides you are not made of money the leadtime for Trickstuff is also quite exclusiv: 18 months! :o
What kind of handlebar will you use?
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Hello everyone! They sent me a photo of my frame, I should receive it soon)
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That's nice colour shading.
My frame is also painted. 8)
Yes its rather a dark frame on the overview photo. Translucent color on black can't be very bright ;).
The carbon blue raw effect is even more beautiful as I expected. In the top tube there is even a small weave part visible ;D, although I didn't expect that.
This is more the kind of effect the rider itself can see and from distance it is not so pronounced. Since I am the rider, that's exactly what I wanted.
My frame comes in size S. Just if somebody asks.
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...My frame is also painted. 8)...
It looks like the blue I wanted for my 936, what reference did you give them ?
Both frames, yours and azuzu501's look amazing !
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It looks like the blue I wanted for my 936, what reference did you give them ?
Both frames, yours and azuzu501's look amazing !
I have the color ral 3016. Now I am looking at my photo and probably would like to make ral 3020, but it's too late (
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That's nice colour shading.
My frame is also painted. 8)
Yes its rather a dark frame on the overview photo. Translucent color on black can't be very bright ;).
The carbon blue raw effect is even more beautiful as I expected. In the top tube there is even a small weave part visible ;D, although I didn't expect that.
This is more the kind of effect the rider itself can see and from distance it is not so pronounced. Since I am the rider, that's exactly what I wanted.
My frame comes in size S. Just if somebody asks.
Exactly the way you described it the other week, except maybe for that section of weave. Looks really good. More pics please when you get it in your hands.
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Hello everyone! They sent me a photo of my frame, I should receive it soon)
Hi, what size is this frame?
Thanks!
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It looks like the blue I wanted for my 936, what reference did you give them ?
Both frames, yours and azuzu501's look amazing !
Ehrm.. Katie sent me some pictures and a short video sequence and I said "yes! Exactly like this". Yours is very different?
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Exactly the way you described it the other week, except maybe for that section of weave. Looks really good. More pics please when you get it in your hands.
Yes it came out really great. The small areas with the weave are the ( unexpected) cherry on top.
8) I will do photos once it is here. According to the current situation this won't be very soon. If it arrives before Christmas that would be really amazing .. so I could use the vacation for the build. But let's see.
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Hi, what size is this frame?
Thanks!
This frame is in size L
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Ehrm.. Katie sent me some pictures and a short video sequence and I said "yes! Exactly like this". Yours is very different?
From the pictures, your blue looks more greenish, while mine is more reddish.
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Besides you are not made of money the leadtime for Trickstuff is also quite exclusiv: 18 months! :o
What kind of handlebar will you use?
I'm keeping my eye on a new bar from Workswell. Its not in production yet but visually the design looks nice.
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I'm keeping my eye on a new bar from Workswell. Its not in production yet but visually the design looks nice.
This won't be a bad choice. I have a fully integrated road bike from Workswell , frame as well as handlebar, and it is working fine. Does the bar fit to the 909 frame?
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Got my sons 909 last night. Looks great though it looks like shock may be trunion and I thought otherwise but I don't know alot about shock mounting so I will have to delve deeper. Very clean carbon internals looks to be well made IMO.
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They have already painted it for me.
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They have already painted it for me.
What is the middle letter "se?en"?
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The number seven?
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Possibly, given the headtube "badge"
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Lovely paint job!
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Yes it's beautiful i also had the idea on the Navy grey glossy. But the "seven" is it a decal? A sticker? Or a paint job with black under the grey? Thanks
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Very interesting, all the best with the build! Looking forward to see how it all turns out :) what kind of headset would you have to use for this frame?
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Got my sons 909 last night. Looks great though it looks like shock may be trunion and I thought otherwise but I don't know alot about shock mounting so I will have to delve deeper. Very clean carbon internals looks to be well made IMO.
You didn't check up which kind of shock system you need to buy before ordering? :o
Yes it's trunnion There are not too many fitting options regarding size.
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My frame is ready for shipment. Ferrari red.
Shock, fork and dropperpost from Fox Factory line is waiting at home. Considering of i will go for Roval Control SL or BiturboRS wheels.
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Yes it's beautiful i also had the idea on the Navy grey glossy. But the "seven" is it a decal? A sticker? Or a paint job with black under the grey? Thanks
Only Paint.
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Test ride feel please :) Who will be first? Every those frames looks fantastic. I hasitate between this and FM936.
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Test ride feel please :) Who will be first? Every those frames looks fantastic. I hasitate between this and FM936.
As soon as I have it mounted, I will review its behavior and its weight.
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Does someone gonna route integrated cable through headset.
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I'm planning to attempt it but given my current financial situation its going to be a long project :-[
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Is it ok to use with shimano XTR?
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Does someone gonna route integrated cable through headset.
Yes!
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Is it ok to use with shimano XTR?
Why not?
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Yes!
+1
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Why not?
Since XTR brake hose are forward (outward) direction, I am thinking is it easy to go into handlebar.
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Since XTR brake hose are forward (outward) direction, I am thinking is it easy to go into handlebar.
Using Magura lever with 40° or 90° banjo fitting should give you a "cleaner" routing of the brake hose.
This kind of banjo fitting is not available for Shimano levers...
Anyhow this is only working for the rear brake or how are planning to route the hose through the frame
for the front brake?
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Since XTR brake hose are forward (outward) direction, I am thinking is it easy to go into handlebar.
I have XT levers here. From my Giant also with XT I thought that the angle should be okay to fit into the handlebar port. They are located in quite some distance to the lever. However if this is not working I will change to Shigura ;).
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Test ride feel please :) Who will be first? Every those frames looks fantastic. I hasitate between this and FM936.
My frame was in Qingdao yesterday... and arrived in Belgium today .. if I am very lucky it will be here in a week or so ;D
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How many people are running this frame with 120mm fork? That would slack out the HTA to 66deg. Which is slacker than my current 130/140mm trail bike. Curious how ppl find it with 120mm. Also I did notice the BB drop is pretty low on this bike, so the 120mm can help raise the BB.
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How many people are running this frame with 120mm fork? That would slack out the HTA to 66deg. Which is slacker than my current 130/140mm trail bike. Curious how ppl find it with 120mm. Also I did notice the BB drop is pretty low on this bike, so the 120mm can help raise the BB.
Google the fm936... or have a look here in the neighbor thread.
It has the same geometry and there are a lot 120mm builds. Also look for the NS synonym.
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Hi i ordered my frame and wait patiently. Meanwhile, I'm trying to order parts. I'm having trouble finding a 30.9 carbon seatpost. Do you know any good ones from China?
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Hi i ordered my frame and wait patiently. Meanwhile, I'm trying to order parts. I'm having trouble finding a 30.9 carbon seatpost. Do you know any good ones from China?
€ 29,54 46%de DESCUENTO | ELITA ONE-tija de sillín de fibra de carbono para bicicleta de montaña y carretera, pieza mate UD, 27,2/30,9/31,6mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_v2XYzG
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€ 29,54 46%de DESCUENTO | ELITA ONE-tija de sillín de fibra de carbono para bicicleta de montaña y carretera, pieza mate UD, 27,2/30,9/31,6mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_v2XYzG
I would be careful with elita. I have exactly this design with more material around the screwing for my gravel. For this usage it works very nice, also i am flyweight. But there are a lot complains about broken Elita seatposts. Although this is referring mostly to the design with less carbon on the clamping.
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I would be careful with elita. I have exactly this design with more material around the screwing for my gravel. For this usage it works very nice, also i am flyweight. But there are a lot complains about broken Elita seatposts. Although this is referring mostly to the design with less carbon on the clamping.
Thanks for the information.
I did notice some wear of my Elita seatpost on a Canyon Ultimate where the inner clamping presses.
And changed it. I will check more regularly that part then.
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Thanks for the information.
I did notice some wear of my Elita seatpost on a Canyon Ultimate where the inner clamping presses.
And changed it. I will check more regularly that part then.
Unfortunately, I have already ordered. I weigh 68 kg, maybe it will last :)
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Unfortunately, I have already ordered. I weigh 68 kg, maybe it will last :)
Give it a try. That's definitely not heavy. If it works it is great deal. I am below that value.. and use it for 4000km now. Since I am not really good in bunny hopping it gets quite some mechanical shocks when I use the bike lanes in the city.
@carbonazza : what kind of wear out did you see? I am curious, because I only heard about issues.
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I'm waiting for a photos of internal cable routing thru handlebar and headset. and some photos?
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Received my un-painted XL FM909 11/26/21, ordered 10/23/21, after being on reserve since since 9/8/21. 1973g with rear axle, no shock, no headset. Box was damage in transit, but frame arrived unscathed. Working on painting first and then looking forward to my first new bike build since 1997 :'(
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Hello!
Question: I will try to buy RockShox Deluxe Nude RLC3 trunnion. Do I need to buy shock bushing 8x30mm or are they included with the shock?
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As requested by PM, here some linkage analysis.
If anyone has a vector diagram of this frame, I can provide more accurate results :)
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;) Christmas came early this year.
I think I have everything, but 2cm more spacer. Already ordered.
The color is amazing. When you are very close you the blue and carbon are visible. In the Light it's then really blue. Otherwise it appears very dark. So it's a effect for the rider ;D. For chameleon effects I always think it's an effect only others see, but the rider always sees one color.
I already attached frame protectors.. will then start with the routing of hoses tonight. 8)
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;) Christmas came early this year.
I think I have everything, but 2cm more spacer. Already ordered.
The color is amazing. When you are very close you der the blue and carbon. In the Light it's then really blue. Otherwise it appears very dark.
I already attached frame protectors.. will then start with the routing of hoses tonight. 8)
Nice!!! Can't wait for my frame.
Damper is DT Swiss R232 ONE? I'm thinking about it too (or Rockshox NUDE). Did you have to buy shock bushing 8x30mm or had them with the damper (or frame)?
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;) Christmas came early this year.
I think I have everything, but 2cm more spacer. Already ordered.
The color is amazing. When you are very close you the blue and carbon are visible. In the Light it's then really blue. Otherwise it appears very dark. So it's a effect for the rider ;D. For chameleon effects I always think it's an effect only others see, but the rider always sees one color.
I already attached frame protectors.. will then start with the routing of hoses tonight. 8)
Cant wait to see final photos.. Yes, the color, chameleon effect is amazing..
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Oh this was a bit misleading from my side.
The blue is not chameleon. I just wanted to say,chameleon is something you see from distance but not when you are very close. The blue raw is the other way around.
Yes I had to buy bushes. And yes it's the r232. I wanted remote and SID is not available in remote version for private persons.
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As requested by PM, here some linkage analysis.
If anyone has a vector diagram of this frame, I can provide more accurate results :)
Thank you Julian.
It looks like this frame has a old VPP leverage ratio. Not sure if that is good or bad. - https://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2016/05/santa-cruz-tallboy-2017.html
Are you able to tell if this frame would fit a longer 45mm stroke shock for a bit more travel?
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Thank you Julian.
It looks like this frame has a old VPP leverage ratio. Not sure if that is good or bad. - https://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2016/05/santa-cruz-tallboy-2017.html
Are you able to tell if this frame would fit a longer 45mm stroke shock for a bit more travel?
True, the leverage ratio is all but modern. It seems that the older FM936 is more up to date there.
Both have the same suspension design though, single pivot with flex stays.
I tried a 45mm in the software and it seems that the rear triangle will collide with the seat tube at full travel...
But again, all this is based on a not perfectly accurate diagram.
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True, the leverage ratio is all but modern. It seems that the older FM936 is more up to date there.
What do you mean by a "modern" leverage ratio.
How the suspension of this one will work compared to the FM936 if they're buillt with the same shock?
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As requested by PM, here some linkage analysis.
If anyone has a vector diagram of this frame, I can provide more accurate results :)
Hi Julian, take a look at attached vector PDF. Is it enough? I can export it to CAD format (DXF or DWG) if needed.
EDIT: According to my "CAD analyze" 165x45 damper leaves about 1mm clearance between seat stays and seat tube, but I didn't take into account the flexibility of rear triangle, so 45mm travel is very risky. Besides it is only the drawing.
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It seems that a 165x42'5 damper will do well. In this way you could have about 110mm of travel. I would like to confirm this point. Does anyone plan to put a 165x42'5 shock absorber?
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;) Christmas came early this year.
I think I have everything, but 2cm more spacer. Already ordered.
The color is amazing. When you are very close you the blue and carbon are visible. In the Light it's then really blue. Otherwise it appears very dark. So it's a effect for the rider ;D. For chameleon effects I always think it's an effect only others see, but the rider always sees one color.
I already attached frame protectors.. will then start with the routing of hoses tonight. 8)
That color looks AMAZING. Which one is it? I’d be pretty tempted to get my FM1002 frame painted with that when I order it.
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It's blue raw carbon.. i don't have a color code or something like that
I'm screwed...
There is a photo..guess what's wrong here.. :'(
I already wrote an email, that I need the correct dust cap.
Let's see what Katie replies. :( :(
I am really .. sad now.
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I already wrote an email, that I need the correct dust cap.
Let's see what Katie replies. :( :(
I am really .. sad now.
Cmon buddy, did you bought the headset from carbonda? I don’t believe cable shall be routed in that way! Anyhow don’t be sad, shit happens >:(
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Cmon buddy, did you bought the headset from carbonda? I don’t believe cable shall be routed in that way! Anyhow don’t be sad, shit happens >:(
Well federic believe it or not, that's the way internal routing works. You may Google that...fsa ACR for example.
That's simply the wrong dustcap, that's why it looks wrong and yes it is wrong. the one I received is for the classic routing. The ACR type is larger and has an extra channel for the hoses.
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I was under the impression defualt routing was external. I'm not expecting mine to turn up with a headset suitable for internal routing.
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What do you mean by a "modern" leverage ratio.
How the suspension of this one will work compared to the FM936 if they're buillt with the same shock?
I mean it's not as progressive as one might want. Doesn't mean that it's bad of course.
My take: The biggest difference to the FM936 is not the overall progressiveness, but the way the progression changes throughout the travel. The FM936 is more progressive in the midstroke and basically linear at the end of the stroke. The FM909 is linear at SAG point, then becomes slightly progressive in the mid stroke and more progressive at the end of the stroke. Now air shocks generally lack progressivity in the mid stroke and are very progressive at the end of the stroke. Also, with volume spacers you can even increase the progressivity at the end of the stroke. But you can't really change the mid stroke. And so with the FM909, those similar characteristics enhance each other, making it more likely to fly through its travel and offering less mid stroke support. With the FM936, the opposing curves add up to a more linear overall lev ratio, giving more mid stroke support. The lack of bottom out resistance can be countered with volume spacers.
But please take this with a pinch of salt. I could be wrong :)
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Hi Julian, take a look at attached vector PDF. Is it enough? I can export it to CAD format (DXF or DWG) if needed.
EDIT: According to my "CAD analyze" 165x45 damper leaves about 1mm clearance between seat stays and seat tube, but I didn't take into account the flexibility of rear triangle, so 45mm travel is very risky. Besides it is only the drawing.
Thanks! I used your vector PDF and got pretty much the same numbers. 45mm stroke is definitely too much.
If my model is correct, it has less travel than claimed though:
40.0mm stroke = 96mm of travel
42.5mm stroke = 101mm of travel
45.0mm stroke = 107mm of travel and a broken frame :)
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This should visualize the different progression characteristics of the FM936 and FM909.
The blue line is the overall force needed to go from 0 to full travel.
The red line is the force needed to get the next 1mm of travel at any given point.
Both shocks are the same except for a slightly bigger volume spacer in the FM936 to match the overall bottom out resistances.
As you can see, the FM909 has a more pronounced "dip" in the late mid stroke whereas the FM936 is more evenly progressive. So with the same SAG and bottom out force, the FM936 will offer a better mid stroke platform and sit higher in its travel. Maybe the soft mid stroke of the FM909 has its advantages for an XC bike, but for down country, the FM936 should be better suited - also because of the 10-15mm extra travel.
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I was under the impression defualt routing was external. I'm not expecting mine to turn up with a headset suitable for internal routing.
Maybe. You should make that clear.
I asked for the internal routing. And update: I will get the correct dust cap, the warehouse made a mistake.
So it's just waiting then.
Meanwhile I just fixed the fork a bit to try the feeling.
I know it looks funny and a bit weird with all the hoses escaping the handlebar vertically.. but here the first impression of the complete bike in frame size S.
And then a daylight photo of the colour. Artificial light makes it appear almost black.
Those theoretical graphs look interesting.. but tell me, can you feel this differences during the ride?
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Maybe. You should make that clear.
I asked for the internal routing. And update: I will get the correct dust cap, the warehouse made a mistake.
So it's just waiting then.
Meanwhile I just fixed the fork a bit to try the feeling.
I know it looks funny and a bit weird with all the hoses escaping the handlebar vertically.. but here the first impression of the complete bike in frame size S.
And then a daylight photo of the colour. Artificial light makes it appear almost black.
Those theoretical graphs look interesting.. but tell me, can you feel this differences during the ride?
How's the internel routing with XT brake through handlebar?
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How's the internel routing with XT brake through handlebar?
I didn't do the routing in the handlebar yet. I started at the rear since I have a prefilled XT. But I prepared the routing with the liner pieces. Look on the photo then you can see how the bending of the hoses will roughly look. Compared to the very strong S shapes and the small bending radius the brake hoses have to follow in a fully integrated road bike handlebar, I guess that will work. Smaller angle will have a cleaner look though cause you will see less hoses.
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And then a daylight photo of the colour. Artificial light makes it appear almost black.
I'm jealous, this is exactly the blue I wanted ( like TREK bikes ) and got a purple one instead ;D
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I'm jealous, this is exactly the blue I wanted ( like TREK bikes ) and got a purple one instead ;D
Oh that's sad. If you feel better, my first chinese frame was supposed to be purple gold. Well yes ... it has a purple gold shimmer in the sun. Basically it's black, cause the amount of pigments is not high enough.
Would you show your purple color? I am curious
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...If you feel better...
Would you show your purple color? I am curious
Thanks! I feel so much better.
Here are some pictures of my FM936
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg26737.html#msg26737
I didn't want it purplish
And didn't want the bottom in black either ( although I may have contributed to make that mistake ).
But it ride fast and nicely, and many people tell me it looks great, so I forgot about it, until your pictures ;)
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Thanks! I feel so much better.
Here are some pictures of my FM936
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg26737.html#msg26737
I didn't want it purplish
And didn't want the bottom in black either ( although I may have contributed to make that mistake ).
But it ride fast and nicely, and many people tell me it looks great, so I forgot about it, until your pictures ;)
;D well your colour looks also great. It could be worse... you could be bound to weird colors of a bike company.
But I know it's weird.. it's custom and then it's not as imagined. I styled my black purple shimmer with purple gold chameleon bar tape and added a a bunch of golden Decals. Maybe it's an option for you to add some blue decals. That's also an open point for my 909. I was thinking of brushed copper but I am struggling to find a material with sufficient adhesion properties. Other option would be a gold shade, the last option would be picking up the color of the SID decals... this usually fails, since you never get exactly the same shade.
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Hello everyone!
Can you please tell me how you can install a non-trunion shock absorber in this frame? I have a fox dps and I'm not sure if it is possible to carve the necessary adapters and install a shock absorber
Thanks!
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Hello everyone!
Can you please tell me how you can install a non-trunion shock absorber in this frame? I have a fox dps and I'm not sure if it is possible to carve the necessary adapters and install a shock absorber
Thanks!
You can’t. The lengths are different and although adapters do exist, they create a substantial new point of failure in a high stress mounting point. I’ve seen more than a few broken, and trying to adapt the different sizes will mess with the bike’s geometry.
The closest shock sizes to a 185x55 with comparable stroke would be a 200x57 legacy size (rare in current shock models) or 210x55 metric. You can see where a 15-25mm difference in length would be a problem.
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You can’t. The lengths are different and although adapters do exist, they create a substantial new point of failure in a high stress mounting point. I’ve seen more than a few broken, and trying to adapt the different sizes will mess with the bike’s geometry.
The closest shock sizes to a 185x55 with comparable stroke would be a 200x57 legacy size (rare in current shock models) or 210x55 metric. You can see where a 15-25mm difference in length would be a problem.
Hello! Thank you very much for your answer!
Did I understand you correctly: my 165x38 non-trunion shock will not fit into this frame and I need to look for another one? (
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Hello! Thank you very much for your answer!
Did I understand you correctly: my 165x38 non-trunion shock will not fit into this frame and I need to look for another one? (
Go along with the spec and take the correct trunnion shock.. Also you lose travel by this kind of hack. Even if you could fit the non trunnion with an adapter solution
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Go along with the spec and take the correct trunnion shock.. Also you lose travel by this kind of hack. Even if you could fit the non trunnion with an adapter solution
Thanks a lot! I would like a shock absorber that has a 2-position remote lock to match it with my lefty ocho, but there are no such shock absorbers anywhere (
I need a trunnion with remote locking for 2 positions and I do not see such options on sale (
If anyone has any further suggestions on this, I will be glad to hear from you about possible options.
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Thanks a lot! I would like a shock absorber that has a 2-position remote lock to match it with my lefty ocho, but there are no such shock absorbers anywhere (
I need a trunnion with remote locking for 2 positions and I do not see such options on sale (
If anyone has any further suggestions on this, I will be glad to hear from you about possible options.
..... well the dt swiss 232 has 3 positions. If you skip the middle one this may work. But you need to check the spec for the lockout. Dt swiss needs 11mm in the lockout cable.
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Hello! Thank you very much for your answer!
Did I understand you correctly: my 165x38 non-trunion shock will not fit into this frame and I need to look for another one? (
It should work with one of these: https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/copy-of-trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit
It's not an ideal solution, but should work - at least for a while depending on your riding style. The FM936 uses the same size shock as the FM909 and if you look thru the FM936 thread you'll see posts about using this setup.
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Could someone please tell me how long the rear brake hose needs to be for this frame. Thanks a lot
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Found this after removing the black primer. Anyone know what it is? Looks like maybe a tag or something? It is embedded in a rather thick layer of un-reinforced epoxy in the downtube.
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Found this after removing the black primer. Anyone know what it is? Looks like maybe a tag or something? It is embedded in a rather thick layer of un-reinforced epoxy in the downtube.
Sorry I already put frame protection on the bottom. I don't remember something like this, but I didn't explicitly check for stuff like this.
Ask your contact?
My dust cap will probably take a while.. this time tracking does not show movement of the parcel.
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Got some picture of my XL size frame for you.
Waiting for delivery now :)
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Got some picture of my XL size frame for you.
Waiting for delivery now :)
Nice! bianchi colours :)
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mine also painted
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So it took a while to get but we did and finally built up. My 14yr old sons new fs race bike. 1x12 axs light bicycle wheels.
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Getting closer. 11.23kg
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Getting closer. 11.23kg
Why Minions on an XC bike to start with, and especially if you're counting grams?
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Why Minions on an XC bike to start with, and especially if you're counting grams?
To shed half a kilo next summer ;D
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Got my frame today. Too bad its winter and snowy in Sweden.
The weight is with rear axle, ”dummy-shock” and ”protective” for seattube.
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What’s size is it?
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It is size M
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My dust cap arrived today ;D.
I had really good luck, the cap and spacers hang almost free, cause the envelope was pretty destroyed.
Brakes are not attached yet, everything else is finished.
11,4kg with 120mm front travel, with dropper post, with remote for rear and front lockout, with platform pedals and bottle cages
My favorite OEM bike Canyon lux trail is listed with 11,8 in the most expensive version. Of course without pedals and cages.
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Can't wait to see final build, pedalancer.
Weight is very competitive indeed.
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First ride finished. Great and amazing.
;D I wasn't much slower than yesterday on a gravel ride. (Carbonda 505)
I will change to sideloader cages , cut the handlebar down to 760mm and lower the front by 10mm.
Besides that I never felt so good on a mountainbike before.
(I started with mtb, realized then I like roadbikes, added a gravel and now finally came back to mtb ;D )
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Today I realized that the rear wheel is shaking slightly.
I changed the rear wheel and also this wheel was shaking ( we do have some stock of stuff in the basement)
Then I tested a shorter axle, everything is fixed now. Unfortunately it’s to short to use it, but in principal it showed that the axle is the problem,
—> The original Carbondale axes is to long
( I removed the original text...here was something wrong, but the message stays true.. axle work 181mm is 2mm to long)
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Today I realized that the rear wheel is shaking slightly.
I changed the rear wheel and also this wheel was shaking ( we do have some stock of stuff in the basement)
Then I tested a shorter axle, everything is fixed now. Unfortunately it’s to short to use it, but in principal it showed that the axle is the problem,
—> The original Carbondale axes is to long - more in detail the part with maximum thickness starts to early, so the derailleur hanger contacts to early. This is really delicate, it’s just some tenth of mm. I tried to measure the axes with the axle completely screwed in without the wheel. It was 148,3 … this is enough to allow for tilting. A 350 DT Swiss hub as well as Ztto M1 hub showed the same issue.
Please check your rear axles! To me that looks like an issue with tolerances , if they are matching in a bad manner as they do in my case, you may have the same issue. The axle can’t cover that.
I am thinking about how to solve that.. I am not havin this kind of tools available to remove a part of the axle
someone already had the same problem, so I did not buy an axle from carbonda. I order genuine DT Swiss with good size.
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someone already had the same problem, so I did not buy an axle from carbonda. I order genuine DT Swiss with good size.
I wonder if the FM1002/1002 take the same axles as the 909; I’d assume all their 148 axles are the same.
If that’s correct, I should probably ask what model (thread length/pitch) of DT Swiss axle you bought. I’m looking for a bolt type but it would be good to know exactly what I need regardless of the brand and type.
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I wonder if the FM1002/1002 take the same axles as the 909; I’d assume all their 148 axles are the same.
If that’s correct, I should probably ask what model (thread length/pitch) of DT Swiss axle you bought. I’m looking for a bolt type but it would be good to know exactly what I need regardless of the brand and type.
Still waiting for my frame, as soon as it arrives I will check if the axle fits. I bought:
https://www.sbike.pl/zacisk-dt-swiss-e-thru-axle-mtb-12x148mm-boost-tyl-o_16075.html
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Forget what i wrote. It is not an edge within the axle that hits the hanger.
It's the overall length. It's roughly 2mm to long.
The hanger does not allow to screw through. It has an edge where the axle finds a stop.
If you aim for 179mm length it should be good
On the photo you see the outer side of the hanger. Do you see the tiny gap between it and the axle? That is after shortening the axle by 2mm
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Still waiting for my frame, as soon as it arrives I will check if the axle fits. I bought:
https://www.sbike.pl/zacisk-dt-swiss-e-thru-axle-mtb-12x148mm-boost-tyl-o_16075.html
This axle seems to be to short. I tried a 171mm axle one hour ago and it is much to short. The hanger design allows you to see the axle and the thread..
179.. maybe 178 or 177. But I wouldn't go shorter
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This axle seems to be to short. I tried a 171mm axle one hour ago and it is much to short. The hanger design allows you to see the axle and the thread..
179.. maybe 178 or 177. But I wouldn't go shorter
I found drawing of 909. it looks like the total length of the axis is 178. I just didn't find the thread info. Will 12x1.5mm be ok? .. it looks like I found the right axle.
https://www.cyklomania.pl/dt-swiss-zacisk-tyl-e-thru-axle-12-148mm-boost-alu,id11724.html
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I found drawing of 909. it looks like the total length of the axis is 178. I just didn't find the thread info. Will 12x1.5mm be ok? .. it looks like I found the right axle.
https://www.cyklomania.pl/dt-swiss-zacisk-tyl-e-thru-axle-12-148mm-boost-alu,id11724.html
The thread must be 1.0
That's the issue ..I only found long axles with 1.5 , which is why I took the Carbonda axle.
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The thread must be 1.0
That's the issue ..I only found long axles with 1.5 , which is why I took the Carbonda axle.
I’ve never heard of trouble with the OEM axles for the 1001/1002, which makes me wonder if maybe not all their frames take the same length and they accidentally sent you the wrong one?
I’m finding plenty of axles with a 12x1.0 thread pitch but I think they’re too short; so far the one I was most interested in was the DT Swiss with removable QR handle, and they only seem to be available up to 168mm with 12x1.0 thread or 177-178 with 12x1.5. Weird that I can’t seem to find the right combination of length and thread, it doesn’t seem likely that this is a completely one-off axle type…
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https://robertaxleproject.com/product/lightning-bolt-on-12-mm-thru-axle-rear-lig626/
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https://robertaxleproject.com/product/lightning-bolt-on-12-mm-thru-axle-rear-lig626/
[/quote
This is even longer... or a lot shorter with the spacer.
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I’ve never heard of trouble with the OEM axles for the 1001/1002, which makes me wonder if maybe not all their frames take the same length and they accidentally sent you the wrong one?
I’m finding plenty of axles with a 12x1.0 thread pitch but I think they’re too short; so far the one I was most interested in was the DT Swiss with removable QR handle, and they only seem to be available up to 168mm with 12x1.0 thread or 177-178 with 12x1.5. Weird that I can’t seem to find the right combination of length and thread, it doesn’t seem likely that this is a completely one-off axle type…
It's the axle dimension I was told at the beginning when I asked for that. 181mm length - it has 181mm length, so I got the 'correct' one. But yeah, maybe your assumption os correct and this is just a wrong axle.. the technical drawing is pointing to that direction. However, even if one of you ordered the 181 axle, you may just be lucky cause of tolerances..and if not you can shorten it, the thread length is sufficient for that.
I would guess that their frames are very different for axle lengths. The 696 has different axle lengths than the 505, although the pitch is the same (1.5 I think.).
If I would design a trail fully I would give it more thicker Carbon structures than the XC fully 909. And then it's just natural that lenghts differ.
For the word standard and bicycles I can just do that: ::)
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Finally finished the build today. 11.27 kgs for an XL. I had the same issue with the axle. Solved it with a thin washer under the head of the axle. Looking forward to the shakedown ride.
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Finally finished the build today. 11.27 kgs for an XL. I had the same issue with the axle. Solved it with a thin washer under the head of the axle. Looking forward to the shakedown ride.
Very interesting. That makes it sound like maybe the problem here isn’t the axle, but the fact that it wasn’t shipped with the intended washer/spacer.
Carbonda seems like the kind of company that might actually add the needed part for something like this in the future if you tell them exactly what you used.
I’m curious myself just in case something like this ends up being needed for my FM1002.
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Can you show me handlebar photo and cockpit photos?
Today I realized that the rear wheel is shaking slightly.
I changed the rear wheel and also this wheel was shaking ( we do have some stock of stuff in the basement)
Then I tested a shorter axle, everything is fixed now. Unfortunately it’s to short to use it, but in principal it showed that the axle is the problem,
—> The original Carbondale axes is to long
( I removed the original text...here was something wrong, but the message stays true.. axle work 181mm is 2mm to long)
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Finally finished the build today. 11.27 kgs for an XL. I had the same issue with the axle. Solved it with a thin washer under the head of the axle. Looking forward to the shakedown ride.
Good to know that I am not using weird hubs ;).
A washer is also a solution, I didn't have any at home and wanted a solution without buying one.
I like your design! The copper elements and Kashima coating are hot!
I will add some decals, thinking about copper or gold, don't know if this will look good together with the silver SID decals.
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Can you show me handlebar photo and cockpit photos?
Is that photo showing what you wanted to see?
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Is that photo showing what you wanted to see?
Yes, Thanks. Look really good....
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Some of the details of my build. Shock pivot pin threads were kind of buggered up, so made a new Ti pin with some stainless bolts. Also turned a custom 8mm to 1/2 bushing for shock mount out of TECAPEEK. Accents in copper, plan was for "dolemite" to be in chrome, but that failed miserably so black for now.
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Accents in copper, plan was for "dolemite" to be in chrome, but that failed miserably so black for now.
Is that a paint job or foiling?
The design is fancy!
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All paint through custom masks.
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Found this after removing the black primer. Anyone know what it is? Looks like maybe a tag or something? It is embedded in a rather thick layer of un-reinforced epoxy in the downtube.
What did you use to remove the coat of varnish and paint from the frame, a solvent or hand sanding?
Did you weigh the frame before and after to estimate weight gain?
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What are you guys using as a chain guide? Want something light that will fit.
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I sanded the primer off down to the epoxy with 400 grit wet sandpaper (would not recommend, too labor intensive). I didn't weigh before and after, but I belive the matte clearcoat I sprayed after is a little lighter but not worth it unless you just want to see the weave. I used the Shimano chain guide SM-CD800 ISG05.
Two rides in, this thing rides like a Cadillac compared to the M2 Stumpjumper circa 1997 I've been riding. BTW the grip and pace is unreal.
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So, of testers in 42.5, testers in 45......
it passes in 45???
Thanks et good ride..
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Thanks!
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Some of the details of my build. Shock pivot pin threads were kind of buggered up, so made a new Ti pin with some stainless bolts. Also turned a custom 8mm to 1/2 bushing for shock mount out of TECAPEEK. Accents in copper, plan was for "dolemite" to be in chrome, but that failed miserably so black for now.
Did you modify the shock pivot pin in length?
Mine is around 2mm too short. If I tighten the screw the bushing for shock mount will be clamped in a way that it can only move the rear shock with quite big force.
Thanks
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I did not modify the length, did not notice any need to. I did make the bushing also though. My shock pivots freely.
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hi,
how is the ride?
what about the suspension performance, both when pedalling and when going fast downhill?
and what about flex in the rear?
I'm considering this as my xc ride, with some races to manage.
thanks
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Getting closer. 11.23kg
Hello,
I want to buy slx 7100 crankset too, please tell me what chainline did you buy? Is 52 mm will be enough to fit the frame?
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Hello,
I went to buy slx 7100 crankset too, please tell me what chainline did you buy? Is 52 mm will be enough to fit the frame?
I attached the FC-M8100-1, which has 52mm. It's fine. I use 32T chainring. I don't know if you will get troubles with clearance with larger ones. Shifting is also very good, but that's what I expected from shimano as the crank is designed for 142 as well as 148mm rear
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I attached the FC-M8100-1, which has 52mm. It's fine. I use 32T chainring. I don't know if you will get troubles with clearance with larger ones. Shifting is also very good, but that's what I expected from shimano as the crank is designed for 142 as well as 148mm rear
Thank's. I want to buy 52 mm because I will use carbon wheels from my old bike non boost for now. Will add conversion kit. Let's hope it will works fine.
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Thank's. I want to buy 52 mm because I will use carbon wheels from my old bike non boost for now. Will add conversion kit. Let's hope it will works fine.
I bought them because they have a smaller q factor.
I wanted to have the smallest possible value. I feel unhappy riding pedaling with the feeling of being a cowboy.
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First ride finished. Great and amazing.
Where is this handlebar from?
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Hello, I am looking at this model and your photos help a lot, thanks
In theory, what brand model does this FM909 look like?
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Probably most similar to orbea oiz, but it is not. Geometry and linkage are different.
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Hello, I am looking at this model and your photos help a lot, thanks
In theory, what brand model does this FM909 look like?
Flex stays aren’t very common with branded bikes….several made a few XC models in the past, notably Scott, but the 909 uses a more curved stay than most and a majority of the brands that used to employ flex stays have moved to either regular 4-bars or linkage driven swingarms. Flex stays with visually attractive shapes are tough to make reliable for long term heavy use.
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Flex stays aren’t very common with branded bikes….several made a few XC models in the past, notably Scott, but the 909 uses a more curved stay than most and a majority of the brands that used to employ flex stays have moved to either regular 4-bars or linkage driven swingarms. Flex stays with visually attractive shapes are tough to make reliable for long term heavy use.
Sure about that? Specialized, Cannondale, Transition, Orbea, Scott, Santa Cruz, etc all produce MTBs with flex stays. The list gets longer every year.
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Sure about that? Specialized, Cannondale, Transition, Orbea, Scott, Santa Cruz, etc all produce MTBs with flex stays. The list gets longer every year.
I didn’t mean to suggest they aren’t still fairly common, or that they can’t be made well. I’ve just noticed a trend of them becoming a bit less common in the past few years, but that could always be some combination of the specific brands I follow closely and the fact that my background is on the opposite end of the MTB spectrum (enduro/gravity/DH).
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Flex stays aren’t very common with branded bikes….
I didn’t mean to suggest they aren’t still fairly common,
Well I'm confused.
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I didn’t mean to suggest they aren’t still fairly common, or that they can’t be made well. I’ve just noticed a trend of them becoming a bit less common in the past few years, but that could always be some combination of the specific brands I follow closely and the fact that my background is on the opposite end of the MTB spectrum (enduro/gravity/DH).
I didn't know they were ever used much in the enduro/gravity/DH world, but they are a mainstay in the XC world and for good reason - weight savings and cost savings. Santa Cruz and Transition moving to flex stays just kinda cements that platform.
Not saying flex stays are all that great, but they are here to stay and are gaining more traction every year. You might even see them in the trail/enduro space before too long.
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Well I'm confused.
Inelegant phrasing. I should have said “not *as* common” as they seem to be in the open-mold world.
Same mistake in a few of my comments in this thread about flex stays, for example I had been meaning to say flex stays are used more in XC/downcountry bikes than gravity ones so I don’t follow that segment of the market very closely and my impressions could be wrong. It came out sounding like the opposite, apparently.
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Waiting for rest of the parts.
Front: RockShox sid SL - 100 mm travel
Rear damper will be Rock Shox Deluxe Nude RLC3 - 165x40 mm
the intended use of the bicycle - XC/Cross country
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Paint looks great! Keen to see how the build goes.
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This axle seems to be to short. I tried a 171mm axle one hour ago and it is much to short. The hanger design allows you to see the axle and the thread..
179.. maybe 178 or 177. But I wouldn't go shorter
Had same problem with my sons. We put a small washer /shim behind to take up a small amount of the length and that fixed it. Also emailed Wing about this to let them know they need slightly shorter Axel.
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First OEM 909?
https://bikerumor.com/sneak-peek-bombtrack-cale-xc-100mm-travel-full-suspension-prototype-leaked/
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Ha! I was just about to post this. I think so, yeah.
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great news, it means the frame is very strong! ;D
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great news, it means the frame is very strong! ;D
After 5000km with my 505 , hitting so many potholes on the roads, jumping down so many sidewalks, riding easy trails... i checked my fork, no harm visible.. I was pretty convinced already that Carbonda has a good knowledge. Also the 936 runs quite good I guess ;D
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Is anyone doing anything for downtube protection against rock strikes? Due to the shape it gets pretty close to the front wheel. I am thinking of maybe making a Kydex one? Don’t want to just tape it. Any better ideas?
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Yon can apply 3M 2228 tape, it is pretty thick and protects well from stone impacts.
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Yon can apply 3M 2228 tape, it is pretty thick and protects well from stone impacts.
This is what I did. Made good experience with previous bikes
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I am thinking about something like that:
https://noso.store/pl/p/Hybrydowa-oslona-ramy-powloka-absorbujaca/316?gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK40-rTjPSufPxFgNhM6W0mD4Am2I7wDlkvWdwK2UlX0O63zoLbGrSlBoCc8UQAvD_BwE
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I am thinking about something like that:
https://noso.store/pl/p/Hybrydowa-oslona-ramy-powloka-absorbujaca/316?gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK40-rTjPSufPxFgNhM6W0mD4Am2I7wDlkvWdwK2UlX0O63zoLbGrSlBoCc8UQAvD_BwE
Looks like being bullet proofed ;D
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Looks like being bullet proofed ;D
Kind of :), but looks nice. I am also thinking about the usual foil. I have an original one on my previous bike and it protects very well, and it is practically invisible. Look at pictures.
Something like that:
https://thetrail.pl/produkt/xc-pro/
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Thanks, will check out those options. Still waiting for my frame to ship. Wing said this week, hopefully I get a tracking number soon. Have everything for the build aside from the frame and wheels!
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I used 3M scotchquard paint protection for the upper part, closer to bottom bracket and below I used a rubber. Unfortunately the rubber is not sticking perfectly, but for now it's okay.
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FM909 It looks a bit like the Santa Cruz Blur?
https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/es-ES/bikes/blur
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Assembly finished, first ride is waiting for better weather ;D
10,8kg in XL Size
Remarks:
Magura 4 piston caliper with 180mm Rotor in the rear requires filing action at the caliper otherwise it will not fit
Rear axle is too long as many others already mentioned, seems to be systematic problem
Lower Bolt for shock mounting is too short, shock does not move any longer when screw is tightened
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Assembly finished, first ride is waiting for better weather ;D
10,8kg in XL Size
Remarks:
Magura 4 piston caliper with 180mm Rotor in the rear requires filing action at the caliper otherwise it will not fit
Rear axle is too long as many others already mentioned, seems to be systematic problem
Lower Bolt for shock mounting is too short, shock does not move any longer when screw is tightened
Nice!
Do you know your chain line in the crankset and size of chainring?
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Nice!
Do you know your chain line in the crankset and size of chainring?
That was indeed not an easy thing...
e13 is mentioning a 52mm chainline for boost frames with this crankset.
I bought the crankset "used" comming with a 34T chainring with -5mm offset.
The bottom bracket required a spacer of 2,5mm according manual at chainring side.
Using the 2,5mm spacer the spindle was too short, crankset only moved very hard.
So I did not use 2,5mm spacer as also e13 XCX manual mentioned not to use the spacer.
I am a fan of oval chainring therefore I have ordered a boost chainring 32T but the chainline did significantly degrade.
Finally the chainring supplier recommended a non boost chainring with -5mm offset which was much better in regards
to the chainline but the chainring was slightly touching the frame.
I remembered myself to the 2,5mm spacer for the bottom bracket and grinded one of them to 1mm.
Now there is space between frame and chainring of about 1mm.
This is best I could achieve, let´s see how it works in reality.
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That was indeed not an easy thing...
e13 is mentioning a 52mm chainline for boost frames with this crankset.
I bought the crankset "used" comming with a 34T chainring with -5mm offset.
The bottom bracket required a spacer of 2,5mm according manual at chainring side.
Using the 2,5mm spacer the spindle was too short, crankset only moved very hard.
So I did not use 2,5mm spacer as also e13 XCX manual mentioned not to use the spacer.
I am a fan of oval chainring therefore I have ordered a boost chainring 32T but the chainline did significantly degrade.
Finally the chainring supplier recommended a non boost chainring with -5mm offset which was much better in regards
to the chainline but the chainring was slightly touching the frame.
I remembered myself to the 2,5mm spacer for the bottom bracket and grinded one of them to 1mm.
Now there is space between frame and chainring of about 1mm.
This is best I could achieve, let´s see how it works in reality.
Complicated 8)
I'm going to buy SLX m8100 with 52 mm chainline. Have 34T chainring, will check if it fits - if not- will use 32T. Problem is, that I will use non boost wheels with boost adapter for now. Let's see how it will perform.
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Complicated 8)
I'm going to buy SLX m8100 with 52 mm chainline. Have 34T chainring, will check if it fits - if not- will use 32T. Problem is, that I will use non boost wheels with boost adapter for now. Let's see how it will perform.
Ok, same chainline as the XCX.
The 34T chainring which came with the crankset had no problem with the frame.
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Hmm, what are you doing to replace the short shock bolt?
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Hmm, what are you doing to replace the short shock bolt?
Make a new one! ;)
And of course starting a complaint at Carbonda, it seems that others have received a bolt which fits.
I have ordered a second hanger as a spare but it is impossible to screw in the rear axle.
The opening of the hanger is smaller than the thread in the hanger ::)
Seems Carbonda has some serious issues with their suppliers QC
I raised a complaint for this one, too.
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Cool, thanks. I can’t make one! Wing did tell me the axle had been updated so hope this is sorted also. Don’t think mine has been sent yet.
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Kind of :), but looks nice. I am also thinking about the usual foil. I have an original one on my previous bike and it protects very well, and it is practically invisible. Look at pictures.
Something like that:
https://thetrail.pl/produkt/xc-pro/
To protect the frame, I use material
Waterproofing tape Cotran KC80. If it is properly glued, then it will look decent. By weight, everything that I put on added +100 grams.
I added a link to the album, because I can not attach photos here =(
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nq2zDKZZBR4RJYrD6
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Looks like a repair patch over a void or deficiency.
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What a shock bushing dimension required (or fox part number)? Can't find it on a frame drawing.
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What a shock bushing dimension required (or fox part number)? Can't find it on a frame drawing.
I can feedback for Rockshox Sidluxe: Ordered a 8 x 30mm shock bushing set.
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I can feedback for Rockshox Sidluxe: Ordered a 8 x 30mm shock bushing set.
I do not know what diameter you have in the fox, if the same as in the rock shox, i.e. 8 mm, the length is 30 mm, I think it will be ok:
For rock shox:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/RockShox/Bushings-for-Struts-8-mm-metric-imperial-p80755/
For fox:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Fox-Racing-Shox/Aluminium-Bushing-Set-8-mm-7-piece-p79366/
Both are in stock for now. I bougt it for myself from them for my rock shox.
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I do not know what diameter you have in the fox, if the same as in the rock shox, i.e. 8 mm, the length is 30 mm, I think it will be ok:
For fox:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Fox-Racing-Shox/Aluminium-Bushing-Set-8-mm-7-piece-p79366/
Yes, thank you, I thought about this kit, but there were doubts. Because Fox has very similar sizes as 29.97 etc. And 8mm is a frame bolt size, not the shock.
Bought the OEM Trek shock and found an incompatibility only when trying to assemble the frame ;D
Upd.
Decided to use a lathe and reduce the current kit. )))
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Sons been riding hos now aince Christmas. So far no real issues. Here is a video of him descending dkwn a local trail tjat is generally pretty gnarly. Probably more suited to a longer travel bike but this thing did the job and he didnt flat or destroy a wheel.
https://youtu.be/J7axpHhq1tg
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Sons been riding hos now aince Christmas. So far no real issues. Here is a video of him descending dkwn a local trail tjat is generally pretty gnarly. Probably more suited to a longer travel bike but this thing did the job and he didnt flat or destroy a wheel.
https://youtu.be/J7axpHhq1tg
FYI, when I hit “quote” to reply to this post it included the YouTube link in the text, but it doesn’t seem to embed properly in the original post or show the URL for some reason.
EDIT: it doesn’t seem to embed or show the link in the quoted text once posted, either.
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FYI, when I hit “quote” to reply to this post it included the YouTube link in the text, but it doesn’t seem to embed properly in the original post or show the URL for some reason.
EDIT: it doesn’t seem to embed or show the link in the quoted text once posted, either.
Both he original message and your quote look fine to me. Must be something at your end.
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Both he original message and your quote look fine to me. Must be something at your end.
Yeah, looks like you’re right — seems to be a quirk of mobile Safari. Renders fine in Firefox and Chrome.
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Assembly finished, first ride is waiting for better weather ;D
10,8kg in XL Size
Remarks:
Magura 4 piston caliper with 180mm Rotor in the rear requires filing action at the caliper otherwise it will not fit
Rear axle is too long as many others already mentioned, seems to be systematic problem
Lower Bolt for shock mounting is too short, shock does not move any longer when screw is tightened
I'm sorry to ask again if you have answered this already, but what handlebar and spacers do you have that allow for internal routing?
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I'm sorry to ask again if you have answered this already, but what handlebar and spacers do you have that allow for internal routing?
Did you visit Carbonda website ever?
https://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/130.html
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Did you visit Carbonda website ever?
https://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/130.html
Sorry. I was under the impression from earlier discussion that the bar shown wasn't included (or possible to get) with this frame. It appears I was mistaken. Thank you. I would like to run this bar/headset with the Fm936 frame if possible.
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Sorry. I was under the impression from earlier discussion that the bar shown wasn't included (or possible to get) with this frame. It appears I was mistaken. Thank you. I would like to run this bar/headset with the Fm936 frame if possible.
With FM936 this handlebar will unfortunately not work because you can´t use ACR headset with FM936.
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Let's get this party started
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Let's get this party started
with which remote lever will you use the nude?
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Nice!! I just got my frame and parts too.
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with which remote lever will you use the nude?
I will use:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/RockShox/OneLoc-Remote-Upgrade-Kit-p49914/?o=48506318-type-7-right-left&delivery_country=PL&upid=google&gclid=CjwKCAiAx8KQBhAGEiwAD3EiPwTaknDYrVGhm8q2n_-e2PpGYgc-ElVQz1Fn0zDpQ2gc-O3o_4NxlxoCKYIQAvD_BwE
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Let's get this party started
What size it is and May I know the weight?
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I will use:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/RockShox/OneLoc-Remote-Upgrade-Kit-p49914/?o=48506318-type-7-right-left&delivery_country=PL&upid=google&gclid=CjwKCAiAx8KQBhAGEiwAD3EiPwTaknDYrVGhm8q2n_-e2PpGYgc-ElVQz1Fn0zDpQ2gc-O3o_4NxlxoCKYIQAvD_BwE
Nude has 15mm cable pull. Oneloc 10mm and only two modes.
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What size it is and May I know the weight?
Size L, weight 1900g
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I am 5ft, 8.5inches (174cm) and my inseam is 79cm.
Which frame and stem will be sutible for me?
Thanks.
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M
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I am riding my EPIC HT (M size) with 70mm stem now. Is it ok to choose size M (fm909) with integrated handlebar 60mm?
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Kind of :), but looks nice. I am also thinking about the usual foil. I have an original one on my previous bike and it protects very well, and it is practically invisible. Look at pictures.
Something like that:
https://thetrail.pl/produkt/xc-pro/
Good afternoon! Wondering which hardtail this is @seba MTB? I really like the lines of this frame. Thanks
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Good afternoon! Wondering which hardtail this is @seba MTB? I really like the lines of this frame. Thanks
This is Superior XP979 from 2018. It`s great!
Oryginał spec:
https://superiorbikes.com/pl/2018/mtb-race/xp-979/matte-black-neon-yellow-black
I changed wheels and drive.
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Does anyone have a diagram of how the headset goes together? Is the top bearing, then that half circle thing, then the top cap and washer? That leaves a hole…
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If by hole you mean a gap then that’s common. It’s that way on my Nukeproof.
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Does anyone have a diagram of how the headset goes together? Is the top bearing, then that half circle thing, then the top cap and washer? That leaves a hole…
First the top bearing, then that half circle thing, then the washer (if necessary and you have to cut the washer to keep the hole for the cables) and then the top cap.
If you use internal routing (through the headset) I recommend to use FSA ACR headset.
Why? The half circle thing is much better with rounded edges and the top cap has a sealing.
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Does anyone have a diagram of how the headset goes together? Is the top bearing, then that half circle thing, then the top cap and washer? That leaves a hole…
Here is what I have, it might help
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1efhJO-i8EN0S8In9NDSyX2CaNkqmyxWz/view?usp=sharing
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Thanks, that helps. I really want to work out how to make the top cap flush with the frame (no gaps). I feel like if I put the one that came with it in it will sit up. Saw a guy on here got his flush. Will have to break out the calipers and do some measurements I guess… hope I am worried about nothing and will just work.
On another note the build is coming along well but managed to chip the paint on the swing arm with the bottom bracket tool! Just superficial but worth a note. Very tight.
Had to remove the lower bolt on the swing arm to get the cables in (was hard). Should have done it then.
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Nice! Thanks for the diagram.
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10,5 kg of beauty :) (without pedals)
FORK
RockShox SID SL ultimate 100mm
REAR SHOCK
RockShox NUDE
DRIVETRAIN
SHIFTER
SRAM GX
REAR DERAILLEUR
SRAM GX
CRANKSET
SHIMANO SLX M7100
CASSETE
SRAM XG, 10-52T
BOTTOM BRACKET
TOKEN NINJA
CHAIN
SRAM X01 Eagle
COMPONENTS
HANDLEBAR
RACE FACE NEXT 720mm (aliexpress)
STEM
PRO KORYAK 31.8x40mm
GRIPS
PROMEND (aliexpress)
BRAKES
SHIMANO XT M8100
SADDLE
SELLE ITALIA SLR Boost TM
SEAT POST
ELITA ONE 30.9mm (aliexpress)
WHEELS
TIRES
Woolfpack race and speed
WHEELSET
Rims RM29C19 matte UD 32H Light Bicycle
Hubs Dt Swiss 350
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Bellissima! Seba, how tall are you? Inseam length? Thanks
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Bellissima! Seba, how tall are you? Inseam length? Thanks
Thank's!
I am 175 cm tall, 85 cm inseam
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Nude has 15mm cable pull. Oneloc 10mm and only two modes.
My friend did some trick, dont't exact know what (see photos), and IT works. There are only 2 positions now, open and close. That's fine with me.
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Thank's!
I am 175 cm tall, 85 cm inseam
Why size L if you are 175 cm? Did carbonda suggested you? I see you have a very short stem indeed
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Why size L if you are 175 cm? Did carbonda suggested you? I see you have a very short stem indeed
Geometry of my hardtail, M size:
https://superiorbikes.com/pl/2018/mtb-race/xp-979/matte-petrol-blue-black-neon-red
Look at attached photos:
Hardtail from middle of saddle to end of steem is 70cm
Carbonda from middle of saddle to end of steem is 66cm.
Saddle on carbonda is 2cm lower than in hardtail. When i will even them, i think it will be the same, about 70cm
So for me L size is ok
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Thanks Seba, what a change from the Superior to this one isn't? :D :D
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My friend did some trick, dont't exact know what (see photos), and IT works. There are only 2 positions now, open and close. That's fine with me.
That looks promising. Please ask your colleague how he managed to adjust the rear shock (15mm cable pull) with the OneLoc shifter.
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That looks promising. Please ask your colleague how he managed to adjust the rear shock (15mm cable pull) with the OneLoc shifter.
I think he used this:
https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Compact-Inline-Barrel-Adjuster/dp/B008OR4TZI
Will ask him on sunday
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Thanks Seba, what a change from the Superior to this one isn't? :D :D
I'm still waiting for my first ride. I hope there will be a big difference :)
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That looks promising. Please ask your colleague how he managed to adjust the rear shock (15mm cable pull) with the OneLoc shifter.
Apparently it was preloaded 5mm.
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My friend did some trick, dont't exact know what (see photos), and IT works. There are only 2 positions now, open and close. That's fine with me.
It's a usual cable tensioner, which is commonly used with dropper posts or road bikes.
Apparently it was preloaded 5mm.
Exactly))
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Finally i finished my new bike. I bought the first part a year ago, second - 7 month ago, everything else within last 6 months.
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Looks like a fast bike Multig. Weight?
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This build - 10,76 kg.
Witout bottle cages, with regular seatpost limboed under 10. Also change to Schwalbe Ralph / Ron tyres reduce weight for 200-250 gramm.
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Could this bike be used effectively as a cross country racing bike that can maybe double as a marathon racing bike?
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Could this bike be used effectively as a cross country racing bike that can maybe double as a marathon racing bike?
Don't see why it couldn't. It's essentially the 936 with a horizontal vs vertical mount shock. Leverage ratios will be slightly different, due to the 936 being a rocker & the 909 having more of a hanging/swing link, but I doubt it would be a drastic difference. If I hadn't just built a 936, I'd give the 909 a shot for sure.
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Now the weather got much better in the last couple of weeks and today I did a longer trip.
The S frame fits two 750ml bottles. Using a sideloader , of course ;)
I am still not sure if I should lower the front 1cm, but so far it's a good match for me.
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Apart from Bombtrack, is there any other OEM brand who use FM909 frame?
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Kind of interested in this 909. How is it so far in the rear stiffness for those whom are riding this frame?
Wonder if the rear swing arm is laterally stiff if you grab the top side of the rear wheel and seatpost with push and pull.?
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Had mine finished yesterday. 10,15 kg.
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Love the red, what wheels are those? Boost front and rear?
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Thanks!
The spokes are Bikeahead BiturboRS. Boost converted.
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What frame size do you recommend at 176cm and a leg length of 81cm? So have shorter legs than average.
I am wavering between S and M. I want to build the bike with a 120mm suspension fork and still ride a sporty position.
I added the comparison of the geometries. (Screenshots are taken from https://www.bike-stats.de)
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What frame size do you recommend at 176cm and a leg length of 81cm? So have shorter legs than average.
Normally people with longer torso and/or higher ape index should prefer larger sized frames, while people with longer legs - smaller sized ones. If you are happy with riding position on your current bike, the best way is to measure your bike's RAD (distance from BB center to grips center) and try to achieve the same value on 909 with 35-40mm stem.
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If you are happy with riding position on your current bike, the best way is to measure your bike's RAD (distance from BB center to grips center) and try to achieve the same value on 909 with 35-40mm stem.
Hey Zomb1e, thanks for your input. Currently I ride only road bike and cyclocorss, so it is difficult or not possible to transfer these values to a mountain bike, right?
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Currently I ride only road bike and cyclocorss, so it is difficult or not possible to transfer these values to a mountain bike, right?
Yep, I think it'll be not correct to transfer this value from road bike, but you can try to calculate it using Lee McCormack's and Peter Verdone's methodics. Lee's approach will give you RAD on shorter side, and Peter's one - on longer side. You may choose average of two values as starting point of your mtb fit.
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What frame size do you recommend at 176cm and a leg length of 81cm? So have shorter legs than average.
I am wavering between S and M. I want to build the bike with a 120mm suspension fork and still ride a sporty position.
I added the comparison of the geometries. (Screenshots are taken from https://www.bike-stats.de)
1,70m work 80cm leg length. I ride the S with 60mm cockpit. I have also rather short arms (i like to bend them). That gives me a sporty position.. although this will never be similar to road bike position.
No you shouldn't transfer your road bike to a mountainbike. But you can transfer your personal taste. I prefer short road bikes. Reach <370mm with 80mm stem. So .. pretty short. If yours are much longer that's maybe a hint to go for an M 909 frame.
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Lee McCormack's and Peter Verdone's methodics.
Interesting approach. I didn't know that before. I will take a closer look at it. Peter's bikes look pretty "wild" at first glance". But it seems as if he knows what he is doing.
Reach <370mm with 80mm stem. So .. pretty short. If yours are much longer that's maybe a hint to go for an M 909 frame.
Yes, I drive a more stretched position there. I have on the bikes a Reach of 387, respectively 390mm and a 120 / 100mm stem. Currently, I'm leaning towards the M, but I'm still undecided whether the position is too "comfortable" for me.
I'll give you an update when I have some new thoughts. It may help others if I share my thought process here. :)
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Interesting approach. I didn't know that before. I will take a closer look at it. Peter's bikes look pretty "wild" at first glance". But it seems as if he knows what he is doing.
Yes, I drive a more stretched position there. I have on the bikes a Reach of 387, respectively 390mm and a 120 / 100mm stem. Currently, I'm leaning towards the M, but I'm still undecided whether the position is too "comfortable" for me.
I'll give you an update when I have some new thoughts. It may help others if I share my thought process here. :)
I would size this frame for no longer than a 60mm stem if running a 120mm fork. The steering gets really sluggish beyond that with the 66 HTA. 40-50mm stem would be the sweet spot IMO.
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Interesting approach. I didn't know that before. I will take a closer look at it. Peter's bikes look pretty "wild" at first glance". But it seems as if he knows what he is doing.
Yes, I drive a more stretched position there. I have on the bikes a Reach of 387, respectively 390mm and a 120 / 100mm stem. Currently, I'm leaning towards the M, but I'm still undecided whether the position is too "comfortable" for me.
I'll give you an update when I have some new thoughts. It may help others if I share my thought process here. :)
Try to do some test rides on similar bikes..e.g. Specialized Epic Is similar. M in Speci corresponding roughly to 909 S size.
When you know what feels okay, it's better to choose.
60mm doesn't feel sluggish to me... but that is personal choice. I think 40/50mm is not stable enough for me..
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Hello everybody, just got my 909 frame, a little bit disappointed about quality. Does everyone have the same issue as on pictures 2 and 3?
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My bike is ready :)
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Hello everybody, just got my 909 frame, a little bit disappointed about quality. Does everyone have the same issue as on pictures 2 and 3?
No..my frame looks okay. Is this only in the paint that shows cracks?
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No..my frame looks okay. Is this only in the paint that shows cracks?
There's no paint, just bare carbon. I don't think there are cracks, more like carbon layers were put this way, I don't know. Disappointed a little bit though, may be should've bought FM936. My friend has it and he has no complains about quality.
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There's no paint, just bare carbon. I don't think there are cracks, more like carbon layers were put this way, I don't know. Disappointed a little bit though, may be should've bought FM936. My friend has it and he has no complains about quality.
There is paint.. matte UD is already painted. If there was bare carbon you should see the layers of carbon. UD as well as 3K.
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Try to do some test rides on similar bikes..e.g. Specialized Epic Is similar. M in Speci corresponding roughly to 909 S size.
When you know what feels okay, it's better to choose.
60mm doesn't feel sluggish to me... but that is personal choice. I think 40/50mm is not stable enough for me..
This can be a difficult choice even with a test similar bike. If you like the fit, then you need to build the same, taking into consideration the difference in frame geometry.
My test bike was a Carbonda 936 L-size (same geometry) with 100 mm fork, 51 (i think) mm offset, 80-90 mm stem. The fit was very low and stretched, the steering was very sharp, the bike itself was kind of sluggish.
My friend decided to buy M-size, I bought a size L anyway. We are both 180 cm tall.
To avoid negative moments, I installed a 120 mm fork with offset 44, stem 35 mm (also i bought 45 mm), riser handlebar 760 mm, spacer ring under the stem. In my opinion, it turned out perfectly for my riding style.
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This can be a difficult choice even with a test similar bike. If you like the fit, then you need to build the same, taking into consideration the difference in frame geometry.
My test bike was a Carbonda 936 L-size (same geometry) with 100 mm fork, 51 (i think) mm offset, 80-90 mm stem. The fit was very low and stretched, the steering was very sharp, the bike itself was kind of sluggish.
My friend decided to buy M-size, I bought a size L anyway. We are both 180 cm tall.
To avoid negative moments, I installed a 120 mm fork with offset 44, stem 35 mm (also i bought 45 mm), riser handlebar 760 mm, spacer ring under the stem. In my opinion, it turned out perfectly for my riding style.
I said similar. This includes of course also the cockpit setup!
How can you compare two bikes that have an effective length difference of 5-6cm on the hand position? You may guess from a slight deviation, this is too long, too short, too whatever.. but the length difference and by that also height difference that you described, created a complete different sized bike, 6cm roughly two sizes up? .. although the core part was the same...
The epic I tested came with a 60mm stem. So absolutely comparable as I went also for 60mm for my 909.
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Hello there, I have been reading this thread for a long time and waiting for some brands to use this fm 909 frame. But can't wait any longer since only bombtrack brand using this frame in the prototype and still not officially released it yet.
So, I can't wait any longer and want to order now. I am 165lb(75kg) and 5'9" (174cm), inseam 80cm.
Please expert chime in on which size and stem should I order. I am now riding Sworks epic frame in size M with a 70mm stem. I decided to use integrated handlebar which carbonda offer. Which shock should I order? I am ok with 165x40cm.
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finally finished my build. just in time
10.5 kg (including pedals and sealant)
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Hello there, I have been reading this thread for a long time and waiting for some brands to use this fm 909 frame. But can't wait any longer since only bombtrack brand using this frame in the prototype and still not officially released it yet.
So, I can't wait any longer and want to order now. I am 165lb(75kg) and 5'9" (174cm), inseam 80cm.
Please expert chime in on which size and stem should I order. I am now riding Sworks epic frame in size M with a 70mm stem. I decided to use integrated handlebar which carbonda offer. Which shock should I order? I am ok with 165x40cm.
I think you should go with M size. Don't know about the stem
Are you sure Carbonada is offering these handlebars? When I've reached them last summer, they didn't.
So I ended up with stem and handlebar by FSA
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Hello there, I have been reading this thread for a long time and waiting for some brands to use this fm 909 frame. But can't wait any longer since only bombtrack brand using this frame in the prototype and still not officially released it yet.
So, I can't wait any longer and want to order now. I am 165lb(75kg) and 5'9" (174cm), inseam 80cm.
Please expert chime in on which size and stem should I order. I am now riding Sworks epic frame in size M with a 70mm stem. I decided to use integrated handlebar which carbonda offer. Which shock should I order? I am ok with 165x40cm.
Epic in M corresponds quite good to 909 in S with a 120mm fork. When you just look for the frame . If you want to exchange the 70mm stem work a shorter stem the M is also a choice... but the integrated bar is only available 60mm minimum length.
Your choice depends on what you want to do.. XC bikes have a bit longer stems I guess whereas trail bikes have rather shorter ones 35/40/50.. but with the latter you can't go for the Carbonda cockpit..keep that in mind.
Try bikestats to compare. NS bikes uses the 936 frame, for their "synonym", 936 has the same geometry.. there is a 100mm as well as 120mm setup for front travel.
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Epic in M corresponds quite good to 909 in S with a 120mm fork. When you just look for the frame . If you want to exchange the 70mm stem work a shorter stem the M is also a choice... but the integrated bar is only available 60mm minimum length.
Your choice depends on what you want to do.. XC bikes have a bit longer stems I guess whereas trail bikes have rather shorter ones 35/40/50.. but with the latter you can't go for the Carbonda cockpit..keep that in mind.
Try bikestats to compare. NS bikes uses the 936 frame, for their "synonym", 936 has the same geometry.. there is a 100mm as well as 120mm setup for front travel.
I will use SID ultimate SL (100mm) fork from my old bike and for XC purpose only.
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finally finished my build. just in time
10.5 kg (including pedals and sealant)
How did you manage in front brake cable to go through the headset and handlebar? Since others are not using like this.
I still didn't ask carbonda for the integrated handlebar. So, I don't know about this is available or not.
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finally finished my build. just in time
10.5 kg (including pedals and sealant)
Rad! What length fork is that?
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Does someone use 165x42.5 for this frame?
Does carbonda supporting mounting hardware?
The following shock is not cable right. I dont want with cable.
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Does someone use 165x42.5 for this frame?
Does carbonda supporting mounting hardware?
The following shock is not cable right. I dont want with cable.
I believe there are a couple of people using 42.5 shocks but I would also like a definitive answer and their experience.
For my FM936, the frame came with the Trunnion bolts and bolt for the eyelet. You will need to supply the spacers/adapters for the eyelet.
That shock (at least the pictures) has a manual switch, not cable.
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My bike is ready :)
Hi azuzu501
What handlebar are you using?
Cheers,
John
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How did you manage in front brake cable to go through the headset and handlebar?
Google it - ACR Headset
Since others are not using like this.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3106.msg33901.html#msg33901
Rad! What length fork is that?
I think, 120mm. It is Fox SC 34. So far, I have not seen this 100 mm fork from anyone.
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I also faced the problem of the backlash of the rear wheel due to the axle being too long. It just rests against the bolt of the deraileur hanger and does not pull the hub in rear triangle to the end. Moreover, my axle was not from the Carbonda, but was cutted according to their sizes. For a temporary solution to the problem, I used a thick plastic washer.
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I can feedback for Rockshox Sidluxe: Ordered a 8 x 30mm shock bushing set.
Where did you order? is not included in Sidluxe? need to buy seperately?
Wing told me I need to buy seperately.
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Where did you order? is not included in Sidluxe? need to buy seperately?
Wing told me I need to buy seperately.
At Rockshox dealer
No
Yes
✌️
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Hi azuzu501
What handlebar are you using?
Cheers,
John
Hey!
Sorry for the long reply, I rarely visit this forum)
I use a Chinese copy of the Gemini Kastor steering wheel. (https://ridegemini.com/en/tienda/kastor-en/) (https://clck.ru/gun3z)
I am very radical in choosing a bike. I really wanted to have
the longest possible wheelbase and I love short stems very much.
Accordingly, with a height of 174cm, I bought an L frame and put a handlebar on it with a 10mm offset. I really like this control, I really do not like long stems.
Now the fit on the bike is set up and I am very satisfied
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Hey!
Sorry for the long reply, I rarely visit this forum)
I use a Chinese copy of the Gemini Kastor steering wheel. (https://ridegemini.com/en/tienda/kastor-en/) (https://clck.ru/gun3z)
I am very radical in choosing a bike. I really wanted to have
the longest possible wheelbase and I love short stems very much.
Accordingly, with a height of 174cm, I bought an L frame and put a handlebar on it with a 10mm offset. I really like this control, I really do not like long stems.
Now the fit on the bike is set up and I am very satisfied
Why you like so long wheelbase?
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Why you like so long wheelbase?
because I'm not an XC rider, I rarely race XC, I don't need top speed, but I love trail riding and love the bike's great stability.
Large wheelbase for comfortable trail riding
You might think that a trail bike would be better for me, but I live in a big city and I have to travel a lot on asphalt to get to interesting places. in the city, a trail bike is not as comfortable as an XC
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I'm still waiting for my first ride. I hope there will be a big difference :)
Where are you from Poland? Maybe Mazovia?
I am looking for someone from PL who already has this frame to check the size before buying.
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Where are you from Poland? Maybe Mazovia?
I am looking for someone from PL who already has this frame to check the size before buying.
I live near Poznań, I invite you to a test drive
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How did you manage in front brake cable to go through the headset and handlebar? Since others are not using like this.
I guess it's not really an issue, seen others do that.
FSA No.55R 1.5" ACR Headset
Rad! What length fork is that?
this is 120
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Please share experience fm909 with 165x42.5 shock if somebody use it.
Is it OK?
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Please share experience fm909 with 165x42.5 shock if somebody use it.
Is it OK?
I have fox dps 42.5, no problem. The workshop looked at the gap and offered to increase it to 45, but I refused.
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Did my first proper fast xc ride over the weekend.
Happy to report it was a really awesome experience. Was surprised how well the 909 climbed and how smooth it was in general.
I am not used to a bike this long so cornering and drops will take a little getting used to timing perfectly for me.
All in all, super happy. Great bike.
Early days yet, but nothing to complain about on my side!
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I notice that water finds its way into the frame and stays there. Get it out by turning the bike upside down, then it flows out of the seat tube.
Do any of you have the same problem?
I am considering solving the problem by drilling a couple of small holes in front of BB.
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Did my first proper fast xc ride over the weekend.
Happy to report it was a really awesome experience. Was surprised how well the 909 climbed and how smooth it was in general.
I am not used to a bike this long so cornering and drops will take a little getting used to timing perfectly for me.
All in all, super happy. Great bike.
Early days yet, but nothing to complain about on my side!
What length fork did you use? 100mm or 120mm?
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I am considering solving the problem by drilling a couple of small holes in front of BB.
I drilled most of my frames, and through the alloy BB shell if any, as water can accumulate inside too.
A single 1.5mm or 2mm hole is in general enough.
Remove the crank and look for the lowest point of your frame where you park it usually, and drill there.
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Perfect frame geo! My worries is that its a wet noodle. Im not looking or wanting the lightest frame around.
For all you owners is the frame flexy as hell?
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I am using a 100mm fox stepcast 32
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And I am not a big guy, but no flex issues on my side.
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I am considering solving the problem by drilling a couple of small holes in front of BB.
My frame already had a hole at the BB
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My frame already had a hole at the BB
Same here
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What has been the experience with pedal strikes? I am looking at this frame with 165x42.5, 120mm Sid Ultimate and 175mm cranks?
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What has been the experience with pedal strikes? I am looking at this frame with 165x42.5, 120mm Sid Ultimate and 175mm cranks?
I'm on a FM936 (same geo) with 165x42.5 shock, 120mm Fox 34 SC, and 170mm cranks...If there are rocks on the trail you're definitely going to have pedal strikes with 175mm cranks. My cranks are pretty torn up.
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Hello everybody, just got my 909 frame, a little bit disappointed about quality. Does everyone have the same issue as on pictures 2 and 3?
Hi! Were these trunnion screws included with the frame? Or did you pay for them separately?
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strafer, all bolts are included. As shown on the picture.
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Hi,
Anyone using a 165x45 shock in the FM909? Or alternatively with proven confirmation that it cannot be used?
And what is the measured (not theoretical) travel with a 42.5 ?
I’ve gone theough the whole thread and I could not find conclusive information on his.
Thanks
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Carbonda 909 and 936)
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Carbonda 909 and 936)
Which do you prefer? :)
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Which do you prefer? :)
My bike is a 909. I like the 909 better because it has an overhead shock, less dirt gets on the shock and it can hold two water bottles and a small bag.
My friend and I had two cannondale f-si 2019. a friend wanted to have full suspension. I found the Carbonda brand and we bought a 936 frame. He needed size L, and I doubted what size I needed. In the end, we assembled a bike for him, I rode it and realized that I also needed an L. A little later, I bought myself a 909
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Carbonda 909 and 936)
Nice! With a Lefty :o
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With no technical justification, my preference is the 936; I just like the lines of the frame better. More straight tubes and I just don't care for the pregnant cat belly down tube of the 909. Hard to decide which is better though when you factor in more than looks... Having 2 bottle holders in the Arizona desert where I ride would be preferred.
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Hello,
I am thinking about upgrading to a fully from my 2017 Exceed. Is someone using a non-boost crankset or can measure the gap between the chainstay and the inner side of the chainring with their boost crankset? My Canyon Exceed has a non boost XT crank with a 34t chainring (using a 32t one would also be OK for me) and I do not want to get a new crankset and modify my rear non-boost wheel.
Thanks in advance!
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With no technical justification, my preference is the 936; I just like the lines of the frame better. More straight tubes and I just don't care for the pregnant cat belly down tube of the 909. Hard to decide which is better though when you factor in more than looks... Having 2 bottle holders in the Arizona desert where I ride would be preferred.
I see what you mean about the asthetics of the lines between the two bikes. All I might add is that companies like Rocky Mountain and Specialized have switched from a vertical
shock Horst Link to the horizontal shock Horst Link to increase the progresivity of the suspension. And improve somewhat the pedaling efficiency.
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Have they done that for the reasons you stated or to fit another water bottle?
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Lighter, more progressive, and in some cases allows for a water bottle. Or sometimes second water bottle.
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Carbonda 909 and 936)
I also own a 936 and am waiting for a 909 frame. he has to arrive in about a month.
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Hi, I am thinking of getting this frame.
What is the long term experience and reliability like? I am thinking on those who have been riding it for a while now.
Also. If I remember correctly some had issues with the length of the axle and the size / threads for the derailleur hanger.
Has carbonda ironed out this issues, if at all?
Do people who have recently received the frame have noticed these or any other issues?
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Hi, I am thinking of getting this frame.
What is the long term experience and reliability like? I am thinking on those who have been riding it for a while now.
Also. If I remember correctly some had issues with the length of the axle and the size / threads for the derailleur hanger.
Has carbonda ironed out this issues, if at all?
Do people who have recently received the frame have noticed these or any other issues?
Hello!
I bought the frame in December, the axle was too long.
I solved the problem simply - I made a 2mm spacer, put it on the axle
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Hi, I am thinking of getting this frame.
What is the long term experience and reliability like? I am thinking on those who have been riding it for a while now.
Also. If I remember correctly some had issues with the length of the axle and the size / threads for the derailleur hanger.
Has carbonda ironed out this issues, if at all?
Do people who have recently received the frame have noticed these or any other issues?
I also ordered a frame M size. They said they have been updated rear axle length.
Painting is taking too long. more than 1 and a half month and still no news.
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Hello!
I bought the frame in December, the axle was too long.
I solved the problem simply - I made a 2mm spacer, put it on the axle
How are you liking the bike, now that you have had some time on it?
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How are you liking the bike, now that you have had some time on it?
I didn't drive much, about 600 km. In general, I like absolutely everything, this is exactly the bike that I wanted to get.
I have not found any problems yet, but it seems to me that you need to drive several thousand kilometers to draw full conclusions
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I have an FM909 frame on the way. I need to start thinking about what to use in the build. I have some NEXTIE wheels w25mm internal rim measurement that I think I will use. I guess my question is whether to use a 100mm fork or a 120mm fork. And then, which fork to use. Also, is the 165(length)*40mm(travel）trunnion mount shock the best shock setup? Can I use a slightly longer travel shock? Would that even undermine the intended purpose of this bike? Or might it be an interesting modification? Which type of shock are people happy with on FM909? Fox and Rock Shox are quite expensive. Any good alternatives?
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I didn't drive much, about 600 km. In general, I like absolutely everything, this is exactly the bike that I wanted to get.
I have not found any problems yet, but it seems to me that you need to drive several thousand kilometers to draw full conclusions
Whats your height/weight? I was pretty much sold on getting one but am concerned about how it will handle my weight. I'm only 10 kg under that "max" weight for the frame.
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Whats your height/weight? I was pretty much sold on getting one but am concerned about how it will handle my weight. I'm only 10 kg under that "max" weight for the frame.
Hello!
My height is 174cm
Weight 71-73kg
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Greetings to all.
I received my frame, which I ordered in October last year.
Frame sailed from China to Ukraine for exactly 2 months by sea.
The frame looks much better than my old FM936. It is also lighter by 300g, the weight of the bare frame reaches 1960g.
The quality of the seats is high. Bearings 6901*2 and 6801*8 are installed in the frame. The frame is assembled on 12 axes, FM936 was on 10 axes.
There is no protection of the bearings from dirt. The construction is such that there is nowhere to insert even custom seals.
The headset consists of two healthy 52mm bearings. Why this was done is not clear, it is heavy.
Really liked the SRAM UDH rear derailleur holder. although for its quick replacement you need an ALLEN KEY 10mm.
I will build a bike soon, it's a pity that there is no place to ride now (
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Which yellow colour is it? RAL 1016?
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Which yellow colour is it? RAL 1016?
I ordered RAL 1026 twice, and which one I actually received is unknown))
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I think the 52mm bearing on the upper race is to allow for cable routing through the headset?
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Wow, a headset now have a new compression ring. Because my headset began to backlash.
"There is no protection of the bearings from dirt."
JvanJ, you can see my photos a few pages ago. I'm made a protection with a piece of old tube.
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Greetings to all.
Take care jvanj, what size it is? Happy building!
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I am putting together parts for an FM909 frame which is on the way. I have found a Fox shock which is 42.5mm x165mm. Can this fit the frame? Or is it limited to the 40mm x 165mm shock?
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I have found a Fox shock which is 42.5mm x165mm. Can this fit the frame? Or is it limited to the 40mm x 165mm shock?
It's ok. You can find confirmation in previous messages of this topic.
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Wow, a headset now have a new compression ring. Because my headset began to backlash.
"There is no protection of the bearings from dirt."
JvanJ, you can see my photos a few pages ago. I'm made a protection with a piece of old tube.
I also noticed. You need to ask carbonda to send you a new compression ring. But I haven't had any problems with the headset yet.
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Hi there,
Last sunday, I became Dutch Champion XCO 50+ on this great bike ;D
My height and weight is 190cm and about 76kg.
Weight of the bike is about 11kg in XL.
Build specs:
XL frame,
RS SID Ultimate 120mm,
RS SIDLuxe Ultimate RL 165x40,
RS twistlock,
RACEFACE Next carbon 720mm bar,
Newmen evolution sl 318.4 70mm stem,
S-Works Toupe saddle,
KS LEV carbon dropperpost 150mm drop,
SRAM GX Axs shifter,
SRAM GX Axs derailleur,
SRAM GX carbon crank,
SRAM Eagle sl 34t chainring,
SRAM XX1 10-50 casette,
SRAM XX1 chain,
Shimano XT M8100 brakes,
Shimano XT 180mm front and 160mm rear disc,
Shimano xtr pedals,
Vittoria Mezcal rear,
Vittoria Barzo front,
Selfmade wheels with funworks hubs, DT revolution spokes and carbon rims.
When the new RS twistloc is deliverable https://bikerumor.com/rockshox-twistloc-gen-2-remote/ (https://bikerumor.com/rockshox-twistloc-gen-2-remote/) I can use the whole hub of the shock. For now its ok with the 2 positions twistloc.
I use this bike as my xc competitionbike and trailbike, and it reacts great in this setup on steap trails and big jumps/ drops. Last week I rode this bike in bikepark La Plagne aswell. First I took out my endurobike Ican P9, 29er with 160mm travel, and after that on the same trails the Carbonda FM909, whitout problems and allmost the same speed.
(https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMttLlQZRMEtVYFGCpv0wK49la9aTiL0GFe7o1i/photo/AF1QipM77hSZJVpc546sSrv8xhwzzPHJ_xees8GcrQd4)
(https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMttLlQZRMEtVYFGCpv0wK49la9aTiL0GFe7o1i/photo/AF1QipPxK4rXT9gpGQNjrWLmOZPQT0hCGVKO6ninVCBS)
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Thinking out loud. I really wish Carbonda / FlyBike would offer a DownCountry version of this frame with a modified rear triangle to accommodate ~115mm of travel with a longer stroke shock.
I'm still torn between this and the FM1001 in 120/120 config. It'd be a very easy decision if there was an FM909DC though.
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A 115-120mm FM909 would be perfect. I don't think a 120/120mm FM1001 is a good combo, the geometry chart is with a 140mm fork and already has a 78deg seat tube angle. With a 120mm fork, it'd be close to 79deg, which doesn't match the geo for a 120mm bike well.
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The term downcountry started with 120mm forks added to 100mm frames.
Of course some of us were doing that long before there was a Yeti SB100 or Specialized slapped a 120mm fork on the Epic and deemed it an Evo.
David Turner was selling the Czar in that config long before it was an official "thing".
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A 115-120mm FM909 would be perfect. I don't think a 120/120mm FM1001 is a good combo, the geometry chart is with a 140mm fork and already has a 78deg seat tube angle. With a 120mm fork, it'd be close to 79deg, which doesn't match the geo for a 120mm bike well.
Neither is ideal for my requirements, both would be a compromise. The 1001 is going to be better for the long steep seated climbs here of 800-1400m that go on for ages. It's also going to offer more comfort on the equally long descents. But it'll lose out on the rolling sections, road connections and short, sharp out of the saddle climbs. The 909 higher slung shock also allows for 2 bottles and will avoid some of the huge amount of dust that will be thrown at the 1001 shock.
I'd prefer the 909, but with a little a bit of added travel at the rear for those 30-40 minute descents and rockier sections. It'd be a better tool for the job, hence wishing Carbonda / FlyBike would offer the 909 with a 'downcountry' rear triangle option. I think it'd be in their interests to offer it, since downcountry is the biggest growth segment in MTB and new N+1 besides eMTBs (like gravel is on the road side).
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I'd prefer the 909, but with a little a bit of added travel at the rear for those 30-40 minute descents and rockier sections. It'd be a better tool for the job, hence wishing Carbonda / FlyBike would offer the 909 with a 'downcountry' rear triangle option. I think it'd be in their interests to offer it, since downcountry is the biggest growth segment in MTB and new N+1 besides eMTBs (like gravel is on the road side).
I wonder if it could be attained via a custom linkage... that would also bring the bb up a smidge
I REALLY wanted one of these frames.. but I need to see how they fair under heavier riders first.
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I wonder if it could be attained via a custom linkage... that would also bring the bb up a smidge
I REALLY wanted one of these frames.. but I need to see how they fair under heavier riders first.
Different linkage might be possible. But I mentioned different rear triangle as it's what several of their current / past frames have had for brand customers wanting slightly different travel / kinematics.
At the weight you specified, I'd definitely take the 936 or 1001 over a 909. At its weight, there's no way it's as strong.
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Maybe a slightly longer eye to eye rear shock. And even a Slack-R for the front if you want to make the short travel bike more aggressive. Although eventually you are defeating the purpose of the bike.
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I wonder if it could be attained via a custom linkage... that would also bring the bb up a smidge
I REALLY wanted one of these frames.. but I need to see how they fair under heavier riders first.
Ride 909 in XL since 1000km with 105kg naked.
No problem!
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XL size 10.56kg with dropper and pedal )
This frame i like better than previously, FM 936.
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This frame i like better than previously, FM 936.
Can you give more details as to why? I'm considering making the same swap.
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XL size 10.56kg with dropper and pedal )
This frame i like better than previously, FM 936.
great color!
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About to place order for a 909.
What have people done with the formal declaration (to PRC) for export? Carbonda are the exporter, but say I can declare below $750 and not pay $80 for formal declaration, or declare above and pay it. It makes no difference to me as customs value on my end will be based on the (obviously higher) invoice value. I said I'd pay it if they want it declared, but they say it's up to me. It seems pointless anyway as there's no export duty on carbon bike frames from PRC.
Never had this come up with wheels / frames with other retailers.
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Can you give more details as to why? I'm considering making the same swap.
For me it would be because of the 2 bottle capability, the shock mounting location (ez access to the controls w/o the need for remote h/w) and the mounting tabs for a chain retention device.
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Can you give more details as to why? I'm considering making the same swap.
I'm about to need a second bike and was going for another 936.
I look forward for his reply, or maybe I should go with a 909.
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I just received an FM909 frame. I was deciding between the FM936 and FM909. For a similar performing frame, the FM909 was lighter. Identical geometry between the two frames. And I think the horizontal shock linkage in a Horst Link is often a more progressive leverage ratio than the vertical shock linkage. It probably depends on whether you prefer a slightly progressive, or a slightly linear/ regressive leverage ratio at the bottom of the stroke. Then there is the look of the bike to factor in. To me they were about the same as far as eye appeal.
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I also noticed. You need to ask carbonda to send you a new compression ring. But I haven't had any problems with the headset yet.
I cut the top cone ring and it now clamps the fork steerer normally, everything works )
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Did you know that not regular bearings are installed on the frame? Not only are they of the Max type, they are also with a flange. And you definitely won't be able to buy them at the nearest store.
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Did you know that not regular bearings are installed on the frame? Not only are they of the Max type, they are also with a flange. And you definitely won't be able to buy them at the nearest store.
I don't believe this has been reported before. Can others confirm?
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I don't believe this has been reported before. Can others confirm?
That is annoying, I was just about to order one.
They probably have a reason to do that, I hope it is a good one.
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I don't believe this has been reported before. Can others confirm?
I could disassemble the frame again, like a few days ago (for full maintenance), but I'm too lazy to do it for one photo.
I can give you the information that I added to my notes for further purchase of spare parts:
Lower pivot - F6901 VRS MAX - 2 bearings
Other pivots - F6801 VRD MAX - 8 bearings
The view of Fxxxx is
(https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/e4d64343b1bc593f1c5348fe05efa4a6/2/0/20191117_124843.jpg)
Also you can find F(flange)xxxxE(extended inner race), but it is not our type.
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I could disassemble the frame again, like a few days ago (for full maintenance), but I'm too lazy to do it for one photo.
I can give you the information that I added to my notes for further purchase of spare parts:
Lower pivot - F6901 VRS MAX - 2 bearings
Other pivots - F6801 VRD MAX - 8 bearings
The view of Fxxxx is
(https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/e4d64343b1bc593f1c5348fe05efa4a6/2/0/20191117_124843.jpg)
Also you can find F(flange)xxxxE(extended inner race), but it is not our type.
Hi there, as far as I understood "2vrs max" means that there is no cage inside of the bearing, only metal spheres, which makes them much stronger against force.
So if the usual F6901 2RS has the same geometry, one could use that as spare? I didn't look on the bearing type I have to admit. So I can't confirm whether the geometry is the same or not.
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I just received an FM909 frame. I was deciding between the FM936 and FM909. For a similar performing frame, the FM909 was lighter. Identical geometry between the two frames. And I think the horizontal shock linkage in a Horst Link is often a more progressive leverage ratio than the vertical shock linkage. It probably depends on whether you prefer a slightly progressive, or a slightly linear/ regressive leverage ratio at the bottom of the stroke. Then there is the look of the bike to factor in. To me they were about the same as far as eye appeal.
Hey, I thought it saw it somewhere before, but are the suspension and leverage curves posted somewhere for the FM909 vs. the FM936?
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Hey, I thought it saw it somewhere before, but are the suspension and leverage curves posted somewhere for the FM909 vs. the FM936?
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3106.msg32791.html#msg32791
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Hi there, as far as I understood "2vrs max" means that there is no cage inside of the bearing, only metal spheres, which makes them much stronger against force.
Max - exactly. 2 vrs is a type of seals.
So if the usual F6901 2RS has the same geometry, one could use that as spare? I didn't look on the bearing type I have to admit. So I can't confirm whether the geometry is the same or not.
The measurements is the same.
May be we can use not flanged bearings. But the main question is whether they will fit correctly into the frame seats and whether they will not be overtightened during installation.
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Max - exactly. 2 vrs is a type of seals.The measurements is the same.
May be we can use not flanged bearings. But the main question is whether they will fit correctly into the frame seats and whether they will not be overtightened during installation.
Well. If the outer geometry is the same then at least there are spares, although not as strong against forces... i wouldn't change to not flanged bearings. Just to be on the safe side.
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Frame should be on its way to me soon. Am I right in thinking that I don't need to order any mounting hardware or bolt for the shock? I.E. frame comes with most of the stuff, and the following that comes with the Manitou Mara should cover the rest?
Eyelet Hardware: 2-pc AL through 37.9mm, 3-pc S.S. at 38mm and wider
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I'm about to need a second bike and was going for another 936.
I look forward for his reply, or maybe I should go with a 909.
I have both frames. I think that the 936 have better looks: The downtube is prettier when it is a straight line. 936 has better entries in the frame for cables (screw on lids).
The Fm 909 is just slightly lighter than the 936 std-model.
909 ha better placing of the rear suspension (easier to reach lever).
In some way I like the feeling in 936 better when riding.
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Am I right in thinking that I don't need to order any mounting hardware or bolt for the shock? I.E. frame comes with most of the stuff, and the following that comes with the Manitou Mara should cover the rest?
All bolts are included. You need 1 piece of mounting hardware kit 8x30mm
(https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/400x300/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/h/shockcraft-fox-803-03-143_3.jpg)
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I have both frames. I think that the 936 have better looks: The downtube is prettier when it is a straight line. 936 has better entries in the frame for cables (screw on lids).
The Fm 909 is just slightly lighter than the 936 std-model.
909 ha better placing of the rear suspension (easier to reach lever).
In some way I like the feeling in 936 better when riding.
Is there any difference between the two regarding rear suspension when riding? Or any other differences in bike performance between the two outside of the cosmetics?
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All bolts are included. You need 1 piece of mounting hardware kit 8x30mm
(https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/400x300/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/h/shockcraft-fox-803-03-143_3.jpg)
Thanks? Will any of them do? Some look quite different ...
Also can't find on Hayes' site what the eyelet size of the Mara is, though I'd guess it's the 'standard' 15.
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Thanks? Will any of them do? Some look quite different ...
Also can't find on Hayes' site what the eyelet size of the Mara is, though I'd guess it's the 'standard' 15.
Mara is standard 15mm, though I found mine to be on the high side of tolerance (still fits 15mm but is a tad more loose than others I've had). The Mara comes with a DU bushing (google "mtb shock DU bushing" for a picture), which I believe Rockshox and Manitou shock hardware make use of. Fox, for example, provides new bushings with their shock hardware, so you'd have to press out the metal ring with red DU bushing material out of the Mara eyelet.
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ooooh a 909 with the Mara... lmk how it goes. I have a Mara on my 936, I hope to get a 909 frameset eventually once I'm done abusing my 936 (If I ever finish assembling it, lol)
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Thanks. So I should get a RockShox 30x8x15 then ... since it looks like Manitou mounting hardware is either out of stock everywhere or out of production.
What are you running your Mara on?
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ooooh a 909 with the Mara... lmk how it goes. I have a Mara on my 936, I hope to get a 909 frameset eventually once I'm done abusing my 936 (If I ever finish assembling it, lol)
Not sure how much useful data I'll be able to give in the near term. Frame should be painted and on its way soon, but this is my first MTB since the 90s (ok I did have one fully rigid set up as a city bike). I've ridden a few FS and hardtails in the last few years, but my knowledge of contemporary shock tuning is way behind.
But I got the Mara and R7 Pro because both are generally suggested to be easy to service, have great damping performance out of the gate, and less reliant on super fine tuning to get decent performance (compared to say Fox or RS). Also I've read enough reports about short travel RS and Fox shocks and forks that makes it sound like not much has changed in 15-20 years and they're still crashy pogo sticks.
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Oh, and anybody with knowledge of the Mara / R7 Pro that wants to suggest a tune, I'd be very open to it. I'm ~80kg - hoping to drop to about 76kg before the end of the year. 186cm on a size L FM909. Trails I'll be riding are a lot of long, steep uphills, and corresponding downhills. Surfaces are often loose and sandy or loose and rocky (small rocks) or gravelly, or hardpacked. Not a lot of singletrack. Very few drops. Climbing and line-picking and braking for the corners are pretty technical (loose / washboard), but the corners themselves not really, few are super tight or twisty. Quite a few 1000m climbs and descents will be ridden regularly. Also some rolling hardpack gravel. There is mega steep, droppy, bouldery singletrack, but I highly doubt I'll ride it - too crash averse.
Looking forward to the traction more than the comfort. Some of the climbs are really difficult on my Revolt (set up as an all rounder with 38 GK SS), and braking downhill can be pretty sketchy.
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Oh, and anybody with knowledge of the Mara / R7 Pro that wants to suggest a tune....
Looking forward to the traction more than the comfort.
Ride it first and see what it's lacking. There is a setup guide for the forks as they can be a little harsh out of the box, they recommend that you open them up, lube the IRT and main air pistons with slickoleum and fill oil bath with 15-22cc's of oil (iirc).
as for the shock, be sure to reset the negative pressure once installed (easiest) unless you have some kind of rig to compress your shock outside of the bike.
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I already bought the frame and Wing said I need to buy bushings(mounting hardware) separately since they don't sell it. Please somebody tell me where can I buy it?
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Forgot to ask.
Should I be using 180mm rear caliper, or is 160mm compatible (and enough)? Will be using 180mm on the front, but seems like overkill on the rear. I'll be running Shigura 4 pot on the front, 2 pot on the rear.
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I already bought the frame and Wing said I need to buy bushings(mounting hardware) separately since they don't sell it. Please somebody tell me where can I buy it?
bike-components, bike-discount, r2bike, bike24, enduroforkseals, aliexpress, may be nearest suspension dealer, good workshop to turn out the part on a lathe.
...or is 160mm compatible ...?
Compatible
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Hi everyone. Thanks for sharing all the insights on this frame. I am lining up a purchase soon as a result of all your positive stories.
I am deciding between the Carbonda FM909 and the ICAN S5, which is $300 cheaper and looks very similar, if not the same.
Am I missing something? Why would you choose Carbonda over ICAN?
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Well we all know that these are open molds and just about anyone can order frames out of them. Looking at it quickly the advertised weights are almost a pound different for XL. Carbonda advertises the frame as the “super light” layup, so I would guess Ican has the normal layup.
I known that ICan has a warehouse in So Cal, I wonder if you could pick up a frame in person and forgo shipping.
We need someone with a couple grand to order both frames and do a side by side comparison lol
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bike-components, bike-discount, r2bike, bike24, enduroforkseals, aliexpress, may be nearest suspension dealer, good workshop to turn out the part on a lathe. Compatible
I would prefer aliexpress. But I can't find any 8x30 . Do you have a link to buy at aliexpress?
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I found this, If I cut it to 30mm, is it ok to use?
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Search for 8mm bushing set on the german sites. Buy the ones you need. On the off chance you need Manitou ones like me, they actually do have them ... but their search algorithms are screwed or they're tagged wrongly. They don't show up if you search for Manitou.
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Search for 8mm bushing set on the german sites. Buy the ones you need. On the off chance you need Manitou ones like me, they actually do have them ... but their search algorithms are screwed or they're tagged wrongly. They don't show up if you search for Manitou.
You don't "NEED" manitou branded ones... I pressed out the stock bushing and used a Fox bushing kit but fox has greater tolerance variation in their bushing kit, so some people say it's not a super tight fit. Rockshox is supposed to be much better.
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Hi everyone. Thanks for sharing all the insights on this frame. I am lining up a purchase soon as a result of all your positive stories.
I am deciding between the Carbonda FM909 and the ICAN S5, which is $300 cheaper and looks very similar, if not the same.
Am I missing something? Why would you choose Carbonda over ICAN?
I purchased the ICAN. It arrived cracked due to I believe a large wrinkle in the carbon layup. I was sloppy with inspection upon arrival so didn't notice until later. ICAN refuse to admit any fault and blame the shipping company so won't do anything. Unless the shipping company also did the layup its not their fault. They did offer to repair it if I shipped it back to them but that would cost a similar amount to a new frame so I'm likely to repair it myself.
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I purchased the ICAN. It arrived cracked due to I believe a large wrinkle in the carbon layup. I was sloppy with inspection upon arrival so didn't notice until later. ICAN refuse to admit any fault and blame the shipping company so won't do anything. Unless the shipping company also did the layup its not their fault. They did offer to repair it if I shipped it back to them but that would cost a similar amount to a new frame so I'm likely to repair it myself.
Pics?! That’s bonkers!
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I purchased the ICAN. It arrived cracked due to I believe a large wrinkle in the carbon layup. I was sloppy with inspection upon
Oh god, please post pictures. Bad feedback from ICAN i wouldn't expect from such a well known brand... >:(
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Oh god, please post pictures. Bad feedback from ICAN i wouldn't expect from such a well known brand... >:(
Well... a rule for shipping, if the box is damaged, as excited as you may be, you refuse the package.
Or you make the courier/postman wait while you open the box to see how it looks inside.
ICAN doesn't have anything to do with that.
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I purchased the ICAN. It arrived cracked due to I believe a large wrinkle in the carbon layup. I was sloppy with inspection upon arrival so didn't notice until later. ICAN refuse to admit any fault and blame the shipping company so won't do anything. Unless the shipping company also did the layup its not their fault. They did offer to repair it if I shipped it back to them but that would cost a similar amount to a new frame so I'm likely to repair it myself.
Thanks. Good feedback.
So ICAN service is not impressive, in this instance. And the ICAN S5 is 2-300g heavier than Carbonda FM909, so must be a different lay-up/carbon/epoxy mix.
All reports of Carbonda FM909 seem good so far. Any issues with servicing linkage, bearings etc?
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I found this, If I cut it to 30mm, is it ok to use?
I will use with RockShox sidluxe.
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Well... a rule for shipping, if the box is damaged, as excited as you may be, you refuse the package.
Or you make the courier/postman wait while you open the box to see how it looks inside.
ICAN doesn't have anything to do with that.
Sure. I happily admit that ICAN has nothing to do with shipping issues. It was a manufacturing issue, not a shipping issue like they are trying to make it out to be.
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Here's some pictures of the issues. It appears as though plastic from the manufacturing process was left in when molding. There is large wrinkle around most of the top of the headtube. They were also kind enough to paint over most of the bearings.
Attached some pictures to the post and here's a link (https://photos.app.goo.gl/PfoVy5PGeTn5RGZU7) to a video of the damage.
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How have they responded?
Do any of these issues make the bike unridable?
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I will use with RockShox sidluxe.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005004083655476.html?item_id=1005004083655476&sku_id=12000027981833049&spm=a2g2w.productlist.list.0.489b19e43GnwSn
30 mm isn't a popular size. If you can to cut correctly, you can buy a larger size, like 32 mm or more - https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005004519320179.html?item_id=1005004519320179&sku_id=12000029465534880&spm=a2g2w.productlist.list.49.29083639UoJKwS
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Attached some pictures to the post and here's a link (https://photos.app.goo.gl/PfoVy5PGeTn5RGZU7) to a video of the damage.
That does look like it might have been dropped on the top corner... I wouldn't rule out shipping damage. Never hurts to try and get the shipper to pay... but ultimately you should be able to repair that fairly easy. I would be interested to know how they handle the situation.. discounted from triangle in case you didn't want to bother with repair, etc...
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How have they responded?
Do any of these issues make the bike unridable?
They offered to repair it for 20USD if I would ship it back to them. Shipping would cost me something like $800 though so no real point. They weren't prepared to offer any other solution.
The bearing paint is just lazy and has no influence on ridability. The headtube crack? Possibly ridable as it is but equally could be very unsafe. It's hard to tell.
That does look like it might have been dropped on the top corner... I wouldn't rule out shipping damage. Never hurts to try and get the shipper to pay... but ultimately you should be able to repair that fairly easy. I would be interested to know how they handle the situation.. discounted from triangle in case you didn't want to bother with repair, etc...
The box was fine, certainly not crushed in any such way as to cause this. I've personally cut up a whole bunch of crash and impact damaged frames. This doesn't resemble any of the damage patterns you typically see in those situations. I guess it could have been dropped on the top corner before it was boxed..... which broke it along the massive manufacturing flaw.
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Now the weather got much better in the last couple of weeks and today I did a longer trip.
The S frame fits two 750ml bottles. Using a sideloader , of course ;)
I am still not sure if I should lower the front 1cm, but so far it's a good match for me.
Hi! Could you measure the inner length of the down tube of your frame, plz? I am thinking if the framebag of this frame in size S would fit the poles of my tent. Want to buy this frame for bikepacking.
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Hi! Could you measure the inner length of the down tube of your frame, plz? I am thinking if the framebag of this frame in size S would fit the poles of my tent. Want to buy this frame for bikepacking.
Sorry that I must smile... that is a bended tube, obviously you don't want to bend your poles.... Without more detailed question how to measure the value will probably not be the value you would like to know.
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I'm interested to hear from those with this frame who may have downsized from their usual size, or picked the smaller of two sizes if you were between. Are you happy with your decision?
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Bombtrack prototype on Carbonda FM 909 frame:
https://www.facebook.com/bombtrackbicycleco/photos/pcb.5518873451481392/5518853094816761
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I am looking to pick up a FM909 in L as I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam. I'm going to be using it for trail riding and some bikepacking. I've noticed some parts lists from other posts and will start with the Rockshox SID Ultimate Fork in 120mm. But my question is, do I need to order any extra of the bolts for the rear linkage or anything like that with my order? I'm not planning to get the headset or clamp or anything like that as I'll buy those from a different manufacturer. I have a Carbonda 696 gravel bike and I wasn't impressed with the axles. Maybe they are different on this so I may try and get the rear axle and just put a spacer on it since some have had issues with it bottoming out. But I'm just wondering besides the extra derailleur hanger, what should I request? Also, will the FSA headset linked in the FM936 thread fit this bike as well? Thanks! Winter 2022-2023 build incoming!
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My frame is in customs at the moment. I think it's a right moment to order the rear axle. I have a basic knowledge that it should be 177mm, 1mm pitch. I will include a picture - is that allright(with washer)?
(https://i.ibb.co/Brky2nS/Screenshot-20220928-080718-Chrome.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Brky2nS)
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... I wasn't impressed with the axles...
What was wrong with the axles? I always use the ones coming with the frame.
Putting some copper grease on the thread as they are hard to start with.
My only bad one is on my FM936 where I got a Torx30, that no multi tool has.
But by using/forcing an hex 6mm, I converted it ::)
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What was wrong with the axles? I always use the ones coming with the frame.
Putting some copper grease on the thread as they are hard to start with.
My only bad one is on my FM936 where I got a Torx30, that no multi tool has.
But by using/forcing an hex 6mm, I converted it ::)
They were really soft and would never thread in right. It was odd. Bought some Hardlite axles and have never had issues. I'm going to go ahead and order the rear axle and spare rear link bolts. Skip the headset and get a good one from FSA or Cane Creek if they make one. This is my first MTB build, so I'm wondering what size I should get. Anyone have links to what they are using for headset?
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...Skip the headset and get a good one from FSA or Cane Creek if they make one...
The hate on this poor little thing surprise me each time ;)?
I ride in a rainy/muddy country. Bearings particularly suffer here.
The cheap headsets you get with the frame with a good layer of marine grease(especially on top of the bottom bearings) will last as much as the more expensive ones.
Even more if you ride a dry area.
An integrated headset is just bearings and some shims and caps, no special tech here.
With bearings that will never see any speed or make a full turn in their life, why not spend elsewhere your hard earned cash ?
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I asked for the internal routing.
...
And then a daylight photo of the colour. Artificial light makes it appear almost black.
Is it possible to add external routing option too?
Could you tell me how much have you additionally paid to get this blue carbon color? Are there more "transparent" color options?
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Is it possible to add external routing option too?
Could you tell me how much have you additionally paid to get this blue carbon color? Are there more "transparent" color options?
Think there are 5 or 6 tinted clearcoat over raw carbon options. Pricing will depend on what you want done. Think mine came to about $250 ... tinted clear over raw carbon, paint splatter over that, final transparent clear over that.
Take a look at TIME's latest finishes for inspiration maybe.
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I just received an FM909 frame. I was deciding between the FM936 and FM909. For a similar performing frame, the FM909 was lighter. Identical geometry between the two frames. And I think the horizontal shock linkage in a Horst Link is often a more progressive leverage ratio than the vertical shock linkage. It probably depends on whether you prefer a slightly progressive, or a slightly linear/ regressive leverage ratio at the bottom of the stroke. Then there is the look of the bike to factor in. To me they were about the same as far as eye appeal.
Do you know if the leverage curve and other suspension kinematics are posted somewhere for either the FM909 or FM936? I thought I saw them once, but the search here sucks.
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Do you know if the leverage curve and other suspension kinematics are posted somewhere for either the FM909 or FM936? I thought I saw them once, but the search here sucks.
try looking... I responded to you last time you asked with a direct link.
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Is it possible to add external routing option too?
Could you tell me how much have you additionally paid to get this blue carbon color? Are there more "transparent" color options?
It was 180 or 190.. I don't remember the exact value. It's more expensive than a "normal" color. That's because they had to remove the black UD raw coating.
I checked the invoice. It was 150. Worth every penny. But keep in my mind, that the bike is dark, if the day is cloudy.
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The hate on this poor little thing surprise me each time ;)?
I ride in a rainy/muddy country. Bearings particularly suffer here.
The cheap headsets you get with the frame with a good layer of marine grease(especially on top of the bottom bearings) will last as much as the more expensive ones.
Even more if you ride a dry area.
An integrated headset is just bearings and some shims and caps, no special tech here.
With bearings that will never see any speed or make a full turn in their life, why not spend elsewhere your hard earned cash ?
I have no problem going with the one provided and stick some Phils grease in there. Appreciate the feedback! Now I'm hoping to find a good rear shock and 8x30 bearing. Seems the RS SID Luxe 165x40 is sold out everywhere. Discontinued maybe? May have to look at a Fox rear shock or see if something new comes out this October when new parts/bikes are usually released.
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The blue line is the overall force needed to go from 0 to full travel.
The red line is the force needed to get the next 1mm of travel at any given point.
Both shocks are the same except for a slightly bigger volume spacer in the FM936 to match the overall bottom out resistances.
@Julian, thank you for your work! Could you do same sim but add more volume spacers to 909? I know it will shorten effective travel a bit, but maybe it will also rise midstroke. How much do you think bendy seatstays could affect this curve?
Maybe also bending point should be closer to seatstays bridge?
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I have no problem going with the one provided and stick some Phils grease in there. Appreciate the feedback! Now I'm hoping to find a good rear shock and 8x30 bearing. Seems the RS SID Luxe 165x40 is sold out everywhere. Discontinued maybe? May have to look at a Fox rear shock or see if something new comes out this October when new parts/bikes are usually released.
I have this one, with the possibility of a lock, it works nicely
https://www.rowertour.com/p/246871/amortyzator-tylny-rock-shox-deluxe-nude-rlc3-scott-spark-rc-100?gclid=CjwKCAjwp9qZBhBkEiwAsYFsbwe85_YZGnVRSCmY4SUWP-0hvAULV2kIDNOrlT0LbeJl23gGQtIkjhoCyNAQAvD_BwE
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My only bad one is on my FM936 where I got a Torx30, that no multi tool has.
You'll want to check out Syncros offerings.
All my Syncros tools come with a T30, probably because scott use them on all pivots. As you found out, in reverse.. a t30 turns into a 6mm when pushed far enough which is good for kabolt/oneup axles
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Received the frame. Quality seems excellent except for:
They painted it with the bearings in the linkages. My mechanic recommended not to remove them to grease, since he's sure it will badly damage and crack off chunks of clear. I'm inclined to agree. I might expect this of one of the super cheap finishes from from one of the 'cowboy' outfits. But this finish cost me $250. It means I can't grease them - and they didn't. And when they need to be replaced I need to wreck the finish. Not happy. They also could have done a much better job with the splatter and appear to have ignored my instructions re: doing the splatter over the green clear and then doing colorless clear over the splatter - but I'm not as bothered about that as the more obvious problem.
Derailleur hanger is a bit odd, but seems to work.
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Received the frame. Quality seems excellent except for:
They painted it with the bearings in the linkages. My mechanic recommended not to remove them to grease, since he's sure it will badly damage and crack off chunks of clear. I'm inclined to agree. I might expect this of one of the super cheap finishes from from one of the 'cowboy' outfits. But this finish cost me $250. It means I can't grease them - and they didn't. And when they need to be replaced I need to wreck the finish. Not happy. They also could have done a much better job with the splatter and appear to have ignored my instructions re: doing the splatter over the green clear and then doing colorless clear over the splatter - but I'm not as bothered about that as the more obvious problem.
Derailleur hanger is a bit odd, but seems to work.
Anyone think using a needle file is likely to work, to remove the clear attached to and around the bearings? Any other ideas?
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Received the frame. Quality seems excellent except for:
They painted it with the bearings in the linkages. My mechanic recommended not to remove them to grease, since he's sure it will badly damage and crack off chunks of clear. I'm inclined to agree. I might expect this of one of the super cheap finishes from from one of the 'cowboy' outfits. But this finish cost me $250. It means I can't grease them - and they didn't. And when they need to be replaced I need to wreck the finish. Not happy. They also could have done a much better job with the splatter and appear to have ignored my instructions re: doing the splatter over the green clear and then doing colorless clear over the splatter - but I'm not as bothered about that as the more obvious problem.
Derailleur hanger is a bit odd, but seems to work.
Carbonda definitely has at a least one bad painter. My 2+ year old FM936 has far better paint than my 2 month old FM1002. I got a 40$ refund on my 70$ paint. Bring it up to them.
I would recommend using a dremel to sand it off cleanly and carefully.
I super recommend, greasing the bearings.
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Can't you remove the bolts and dust covers and force some grease in W/O removing the entire bearing?
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Can't you remove the bolts and dust covers and force some grease in W/O removing the entire bearing?
Into the inner race, sure? But not between frame and outer race ... there's no gap, it's sealed by the clearcoat. Mechanic's going to try with the softer sanding tools with the Dremel next week. If the clearcoat hasn't penetrated too far into the recess, the Dremel at low speed might be able to take the lip of clear off without cracking the rest, so the bearings can be popped out.
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Can someone tell me what the ISCG bolt diameter and length is on the ISCG mounts? Google not helping. Most saying M6 (some not), lengths varying wildly.
I'm running a 36 oval so likely won't find a guide / guard that will fit, but I need to put some bolts in the holes.
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Can someone tell me what the ISCG bolt diameter and length is on the ISCG mounts? Google not helping. Most saying M6 (some not), lengths varying wildly.
I'm running a 36 oval so likely won't find a guide / guard that will fit, but I need to put some bolts in the holes.
Most is 6mm and total length with guide is around 10mm. Guides use countersunk bolts, you can use regular allen head bolts if you just need bolts to plug the holes.
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Received the frame. Quality seems excellent except for:
They painted it with the bearings in the linkages. My mechanic recommended not to remove them to grease, since he's sure it will badly damage and crack off chunks of clear. I'm inclined to agree. I might expect this of one of the super cheap finishes from from one of the 'cowboy' outfits. But this finish cost me $250. It means I can't grease them - and they didn't. And when they need to be replaced I need to wreck the finish. Not happy. They also could have done a much better job with the splatter and appear to have ignored my instructions re: doing the splatter over the green clear and then doing colorless clear over the splatter - but I'm not as bothered about that as the more obvious problem.
Derailleur hanger is a bit odd, but seems to work.
I had the same paint issue. I also suspect none of the bearing/frame interfaces were greased because the hanger/frame interface certainly wasn't. Also, as I showed earlier my frame quality was crap.
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Anyone think using a needle file is likely to work, to remove the clear attached to and around the bearings? Any other ideas?
Needle file is waaaaay to abrasive to use on a CF frame... personally I would just press them out and fix whatever damage happened... I would also communicate to Carbonda that it's not cool you need to deal with this.
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Needle file is waaaaay to abrasive to use on a CF frame... personally I would just press them out and fix whatever damage happened... I would also communicate to Carbonda that it's not cool you need to deal with this.
Don't think it's likely to be possible to fix green transparent clear over raw carbon finish if you take chunks off it.
They don't care. Fobbed me off with some bullshit about never expecting customers to remove bearings (they sold me replacement bearing kit hurr durr) and this being how it was always done (no it isn't).
They finally accepted it wasn't ideal and would pass on the advice to the painters for future improvement ... lol.
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I'd try heating the clear up with a heat gun and then removing the bearing, maybe sanding or breaking the clear with a hobby knife. You're going to get some damage either way but fingers crossed that'll help a bit.
This is why I'm all aboard the DIY paint train.
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I'd try heating the clear up with a heat gun and then removing the bearing, maybe sanding or breaking the clear with a hobby knife. You're going to get some damage either way but fingers crossed that'll help a bit.
This is why I'm all aboard the DIY paint train.
That's good advice re: the heat gun. Thanks.
Oh and I discovered they'd taken all the finish off the right rear chainstay on the underisde near the hanger and even abraded the carbon. It obviously happened after painting and not during transit (was packed really well and only the box had been opened - packing material untouched). I can't fathom how they managed this. They'd have literally had to drag it along the floor or smack it into a wall. Cosmetically it doesn't matter, but I'll have to put a bit of padding on it to protect the carbon.
One person in this process I certainly can't fault is the person who packed it - great job.
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Any chance you could put up a photo? The green might be a somewhat common candy colour or close enough you might be able to fix it? It would be a lot of work though. Typically, a coloured clear over raw goes something like this:
1. clear primer
2. candy intercoat
3. intercoat clear sealer
4. high gloss finish
So it's pretty tough to replicate for a touch-up, but depending on what it looks like, you might be able to get it down to as simple as a two-step paint application for a touch up.
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Thanks. Guess I'll see what the damage is when the time comes. Build day is gonna be delayed a bit anyway as bike-componentsDE continue to descend from the best bike e-tailer of the 00s and early 10s into the worst bike e-tailer in DE of the 20s ... took them nearly 2 weeks of fuck ups and general SNAFUs to finally dispatch the stuff that I ordered - which was in stock.
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Received the frame. Quality seems excellent except for:
They painted it with the bearings in the linkages. My mechanic recommended not to remove them to grease, since he's sure it will badly damage and crack off chunks of clear.
Why not use an Exacto style knife to carefully separate the paint from the bearings? My Carbonda FM909 came raw carbon fiber. Seems to be OK.
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...They finally accepted it wasn't ideal and would pass on the advice to the painters for future improvement ... lol.
Do you know how branded frame are mounted with this ?
So we could tell them more precisely what needs to be done.
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Thanks. Guess I'll see what the damage is when the time comes. Build day is gonna be delayed a bit anyway as bike-componentsDE continue to descend from the best bike e-tailer of the 00s and early 10s into the worst bike e-tailer in DE of the 20s ... took them nearly 2 weeks of fuck ups and general SNAFUs to finally dispatch the stuff that I ordered - which was in stock.
It may be just bad luck or a logistic change on their side.
I ordered often from them this year without any issue.
They even sped up the delivery to Belgium, 2 days instead of 3-4.
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It may be just bad luck or a logistic change on their side.
I ordered often from them this year without any issue.
They even sped up the delivery to Belgium, 2 days instead of 3-4.
Prior 2 were similar too. This is the worst so far, though. I know others with similar experience. They're not what they used to be. I'd always recommend R2 / BDde / B24 over them, if possible.
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Why not use an Exacto style knife to carefully separate the paint from the bearings? My Carbonda FM909 came raw carbon fiber. Seems to be OK.
Do you mean yours was delivered the same way? With clear touching / on the bearings? Ideally you don't want to cut something brittle if you can avoid it, because larger chunks may crack off. Black primer, basecoat, another coat or two of paint, then clear is going to be a lot softer than several layers of clearcoat.
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Do you know how branded frame are mounted with this ?
So we could tell them more precisely what needs to be done.
They understood. I was very clear. They just wanted to claim this was normal. I haven't seen a 909 branded yet (aside from the 'prototype' Bombtrack linked to in this thread). But I've seen a couple of 936s sold by other brands in the flesh ... their paint definitely didn't overlap the bearings (both were in for service and had covers off). I think it is very unlikely they were painted with bearings in, due to the difficulty of masking. Of course, Carbonda may use a small external facility for painting, rather than FlyBike's main facilities though. Anyway, it can't be the norm as there'd have been way more complaints about it here. I think their ass-covering is because the paint job cost a lot more than normal - $250.
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Though The frame is not arrived yet. I bought shock and mounting hardware.
I am not familiar with this process to mount.
I tried these two hardware and neither of them are working.
Do I need to remove metal ring in the open eyelet of the shock to fit them?
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Though The frame is not arrived yet. I bought shock and mounting hardware.
I am not familiar with this process to mount.
I tried these two hardware and neither of them are working.
Do I need to remove metal ring in the open eyelet of the shock to fit them?
I don't have an answer for you. But forgot to post that this is an easy source for Manitou mounting hardware in EU. It doesn't show up in google or their own search function for manitou mounting hardware. May be useful to others.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/manitou-socket-set-8mm-damper/suspensions-from-2011
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I tried these two hardware and neither of them are working.
May be this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ScLQgoNgxU[/url) helps
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May be this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ScLQgoNgxU[/url) helps
At that video, he removed the metal ring (in the open eyelet).
So, I need to remove metal ring in my sidluxe open eyelet?
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What downtube protectors are people using? I tried ordering a couple of the NukeProof / Vitus ones from Wiggle. Fit is bad / too small.
Any recommendations for one which will fit well?
I'm surprised Carbonda don't offer this as an option. You'd think 90% of people would take it.
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At that video, he removed the metal ring (in the open eyelet).
So, I need to remove metal ring in my sidluxe open eyelet?
The hardware that's all black in your attached picture should not need the metal ring removed, the long tube should press into the metal ring/bushing. The second picture with the tan plastic stepped bushings would require you to remove the metal ring/bushing. For reference, Rockshox and Manitou hardware are used with the metal ring/bushing in place, Fox hardware needs the ring/bushing removed.
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What downtube protectors are people using? I tried ordering a couple of the NukeProof / Vitus ones from Wiggle. Fit is bad / too small.
Any recommendations for one which will fit well?
I'm surprised Carbonda don't offer this as an option. You'd think 90% of people would take it.
I use this one:
https://noso.store/pl/p/TSS-oslona-ramy-MTB-400/356
And chain protector:
https://noso.store/pl/p/Oslona-pod-lancuch-rozmiar-L-%2C-rower-gravel%2C-MTB%2C-hybryda-z-zelem-absorbujacym%2C/248
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I use this one:
https://noso.store/pl/p/TSS-oslona-ramy-MTB-400/356
And chain protector:
https://noso.store/pl/p/Oslona-pod-lancuch-rozmiar-L-%2C-rower-gravel%2C-MTB%2C-hybryda-z-zelem-absorbujacym%2C/248
Thanks. Couldn't get them delivered here though. Ended up ordering something on Amazon - the "ENLEE" one. Seems to get ok reviews, and supposedly has 3M adhesive.
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On another note, is anyone running chain dampers? As opposed to guides.
https://r2-bike.com/NINJA-MOUNT-ChainFin-Chain-Damping-System
https://r2-bike.com/STFU-BIKE-Chain-Guide-MTB-Drivetrain-Damping-System-Trail
Worth it or not?
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I'm thinking about using 120mm fork with this frame to build all-round bike or buying FM1002, not sure yet. I'm coming from 63 HTA hardtail (65 HTA sagged) so it's extremely nice to shred down but harder to turn. 909 will have 66 HTA so it's on the steep side. Do you have such setup (909 on 120mm fork) and slacker enduro frame? Does 1 deg steeper HTA make such difference? I've seen that current trail bikes are going rather into 65 territory then staying on 66.
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I am building an FM909 with a Fox step cast 120mm fork. Not done yet. I will post a photo when it is complete. I think this would be fine for general (flowy) trail use. And occasionally for ledgy and rocky trail use. I plan on using this bike for longer days in the saddle. I have an FM1002 for rougher trails. The FM1001 would probably be a good compromise between the two. You can always put a Slack-R headset on the FM909 if you wish to slacken the head angle. I put one on an old Ican P9. It worked wonders for the bike.
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Thx, let me know. I also have Fox SC, 34.
How it's possible to install SlackR? AFAIK it's for IS42.
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Thx, let me know. I also have Fox SC, 34.
How it's possible to install SlackR? AFAIK it's for IS42.
Here is what the 9point8 website says.
" IMPORTANT COMPATIBILITY INFORMATION
Slack-R is now compatible with MOST Tapered IS headsets. There are 3 different styles of upper cups now to go along with the IS52 lowers. IS41, IS42, and IS42S.
IS41/IS52 will fit a number of bikes from manufacturers such as Yeti, Santa Cruz, and Trek (eliminates the need for a Knock Block in most cases). Cube is an exception as they use a deeper upper bearing seat and the Slack-R IS41 will not sit properly in the Cube frames.
IS42/IS52 will fit many bikes from Cannondale, Norco, Marin, Orbea, GT, Revel, Scott and many more including some Specialized with a standard depth IS42/IS52 headset. Standard bearing seat depth is 3mm
IS42S/IS52 will fit Specialized bikes that have the 6.8mm deep upper bearing seat. (some Specialized bearings sit deeper than the standard IS42 geometry so they require their own specific top cup to insure proper fitment)
Headset types do vary across the same manufacturer, make sure you are sure what kind of headset you have. (IS/EC/ZS or hybrids of these)
Some IS bearing seats in the frames have a smaller bearing seat inside diameter than others so in some cases a bit of sanding will be required to fit in the 34.5mm upper sleeve and 44.5mm lower sleeve. In most cases the frame allow the kits to drop right in but in some cases opening up the upper and/or lower bearing seat inside diameter(s) will be required so double check your frame clearance prior to ordering if unsure.
Contact support@9point8.ca if you are unsure about your application prior to ordering."
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But the upper bearing of 909 is IS52, isn't it?
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But the upper bearing of 909 is IS52, isn't it?
It's IS52 / IS52.
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What's real weight of M size? Carbonda specifies 1770, but @Manofmanymissions's frame was 1990, painted. So it's rather on heavy side, 1770 +40 for axle +150 for paint +30 for protections or rather paint is only 100 but frame is 1820... Just curious as I'm thinking about buying unpainted...
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My L with hanger - 1818.
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Does anyone ride this frame with 30T or 32T chainring? I wonder how climbing feels. Antisquat graph shows positive AS for less then about 50% sag (I assume that 25% is the optimal for this bike), so with the default sag bike should rise while pedaling. How does it feel in real life?
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Does anyone ride this frame with 30T or 32T chainring? I wonder how climbing feels. Antisquat graph shows positive AS for less then about 50% sag (I assume that 25% is the optimal for this bike), so with the default sag bike should rise while pedaling. How does it feel in real life?
Small chainring is not an issue regarding clearance... so I don't get the point? Also.. Climbing is not different from my former bike... you have to work, it is not going up without effort ;). But due to the better position (more in the front) the pedaling is more efficient. I can bring more power to the pedal.
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Small chainring is not an issue regarding clearance... so I don't get the point? Also.. Climbing is not different from my former bike... you have to work, it is not going up without effort ;). But due to the better position (more in the front) the pedaling is more efficient. I can bring more power to the pedal.
No, no, I'm not talking about clearance. I will most likely use 120mm fork, so this won't be an issue.
This frame kinematics looks like to be optimized for 32T chainring. It's visible on Julian's graph. 34T chainring will cause some bobbing on smaller cogs, 32T should be spot-on and 30T is too small and will rise suspension while pedaling. Do you have 32T front chainring? If yes, how does frame climb with it?
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No, no, I'm not talking about clearance. I will most likely use 120mm fork, so this won't be an issue.
This frame kinematics looks like to be optimized for 32T chainring. It's visible on Julian's graph. 34T chainring will cause some bobbing on smaller cogs, 32T should be spot-on and 30T is too small and will rise suspension while pedaling. Do you have 32T front chainring? If yes, how does frame climb with it?
I was talking of clearance between chainring and frame. With 32 it is not that much space left although it's allowed to 36T. But maybe that's also because I chose the XT XC crankset from shimano, which has bit reduced chainline.
But now I got your point. Yes i use 32T. But to be honest.... I chose that because of the desired small gears.
Yes it climbs good. But this feeling is more due to the better pedaling efficiency. Since I can't and won't compare to 34 or 30 that's not really helpful for you? And the rocking movement..I just accept it as a part of the game. I don't have the feeling of getting seasick or heavy bobbing....
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Yep, from carbonda pdf it looks like there's about 2mm of clearance, that's close, but hopefully enough.
I've never had fs bike before and want to buy something nice. 909 looks good, but questions always arise, that's why I'm asking. No, I don't need comparing chainrings, no problem. Just looking for opinions how this frame rides on 32T.
I don't own linkage, but made quick analysis of this frame to be sure that my kid can ride it without excessive bobbing. If you've got a bit of bob I think you can try setting bike higher, e.g. sag to about 25% (unless you are already there). It will change contact patches-COG relation.
This is the picture of size L with 29x2.6 tires, 120mm fork and COG 700mm over BB to show this relation.
(https://i.imgur.com/oN2zRrW.png)
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Not sure 2.6" will fit - guess it depends on the rim and tire combo. Maybe others can chime in.
Re: chainring clearance - the frame is designed for Boost chainline so if you have a non-Boost crankset then naturally you're going to have reduced chainring clearance. Mine still isn't built up yet, but we test fit the BB / crank / chainring as I was a little concerned that a Garbaruk oval 36T wouldn't fit, but it does. You *might* fit a round 38T.
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Yeah, I've got Kenda Booster Pro 27.5x2.6, they measure 65mm at knobs and 63mm at carcass on i36 rim, so it's rather 2.5.
I've modeled and printed part of chainstay based on carbonda blueprint, here is the result after careful matching 27.5->29. So I will most likely buy 29 version, it's tight but I think it should be ok. But yeah, true, heavy 2.6 won't fit for sure.
(https://i.imgur.com/3VYU5h6.jpg)
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Not sure 2.6" will fit - guess it depends on the rim and tire combo. Maybe others can chime in.
Re: chainring clearance - the frame is designed for Boost chainline so if you have a non-Boost crankset then naturally you're going to have reduced chainring clearance. Mine still isn't built up yet, but we test fit the BB / crank / chainring as I was a little concerned that a Garbaruk oval 36T wouldn't fit, but it does. You *might* fit a round 38T.
The XT has 2 cranksets with different Q factors. The more narrow one is more for XC usage. Or simply for people with smaller hips not wanting to feel like John Wayne on a horse. Both of them are boost. You should not mix that stuff up..
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The XT has 2 cranksets with different Q factors. The more narrow one is more for XC usage. Or simply for people with smaller hips not wanting to feel like John Wayne on a horse. Both of them are boost. You should not mix that stuff up..
Do you get the same chainline as with SRAM Eagle ?
In 1x12, back pedaling on the biggest cog made the chain drop easily on one of my recent mount with a chainline of 53mm.
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The XT has 2 cranksets with different Q factors. The more narrow one is more for XC usage. Or simply for people with smaller hips not wanting to feel like John Wayne on a horse. Both of them are boost. You should not mix that stuff up..
Then I'm not sure why he was talking about chainring clearance, if they're just QF difference.
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Then I'm not sure why he was talking about chainring clearance, if they're just QF difference.
Shimano makes 3 different cranksets each with a different QF and chainline.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8100/FC-M8100-1.html (for XC)
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8100/FC-M8120-1.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8100/FC-M8130-1.html
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Then I'm not sure why he was talking about chainring clearance, if they're just QF difference.
Because at a certain point it's not possible to further reduce the q factor on a crankset without reducing the chainline ... otherwise your feet would crash the chainring... this is why the reduced QF comes with a reduced chainline in this case.
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But XTR crankset has reduced 162mm qfactor with 52mm chainline. I don't know why Shimano doesn't make low-q xt's:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/xtr-m9100/FC-M9100-1.html
This one will fit 909 with ease.
But I've found, that my current 175mm qf XTs are ok for light trail use, could be bit narrower so I will get 172mm. That's why I'm after this frame, all new frames are coming with 55mm chainline, so you can't use narrower qf cranksets.
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...all new frames are coming with 55mm chainline...
What new frames are you referring to?
55mm chainline gives a heavily crossed chain on the biggest cog of a non super boost rear hub.
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https://bikerumor.com/aasq-142-why-are-brands-moving-boost-frames-from-52mm-to-55mm-chainlines/
Yeah, that makes me mad too. I currenly have 57mm chainline in my hardtail (outer chainring position on triple bcd104) but I've got 445mm chainstays, so it's very similar to 55mm on 430mm chainstays. And this honestly sucks, industry pushes this due to tire clearance/short chainstays combo.
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https://bikerumor.com/aasq-142-why-are-brands-moving-boost-frames-from-52mm-to-55mm-chainlines/
Yeah, that makes me mad too.
So in a few years industry should move either to super boost as standard or to asymmetrical chainstays
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Today was build day. Combination of heatgun and scalpel and a bearing press dealt with extracting the painted-over bearings in all but one of the pivots. It was a long, laborious process which the mechanic didn't enjoy, and it should not have been necessary but for the carelessness of the painters Carbonda used.
Unfortunately we couldn't extract the double bearings in the middle linkage. As there are two on each side I suspect it's not easy at the best of times, but per the photos, there was a large amount of clearcoat penetration of the bearing recess (worse than all the others) and they're completely stuck fast. There's no way to remove them without using force sufficient to destroy the linkage.
As such I emailed Carbonda requesting a new, painted middle linkage and bearings, to replace the current one when the bearings fail - which I can't imagine will take more than a season as we have fine dust like icing sugar here.
Aside from all the time spent on that, things were relatively trouble free until it was brakes time.
Titanium planet magura bleed screws refused to seal the caliper, despite looking identical to stock ones. Took ages to diagnose what the issue was as they weren't leaking visibly initially but all pressure was gone. Then we discovered Hope floating rotor attachment points don't clear magura MT 2pot rear calipers. Going to have to swap the XTR one from gravel bike in. Also forgot I needed a PM 160->180 adapter for the Manitou R7 Pro, which fortunately the LBS had.
Both the mechanic and I felt the Acros headset bearings were significantly worse quality than the ones provided by Carbonda. Also the IP seal that Acros provide to go between the bottom of the headtube and bearing results in play and won't work. Crown race they provide is also not split and won't work on the R7 Pro, or I suspect many other forks. So we used the original Carbonda bottom bearing and crown race, and the Acros upper bearing, cable routing insert and headset cover that I needed for integrated cabling with the Syncros Fraser bar.
Hopefully finishing it off tomorrow.
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Finished.
Looks good I think. Frameset appears to be very good quality. Just a shame that the experience has been somewhat marred by the paint (clear) over bearings fiasco. I'll update when I receive a response to my request for a new middle linkage to replace the borked one.
First order of business, more shock and fork pressure. Need to cut bars further and find the fattest grips available. Also need a longer travel (and thus longer) dropper as I can't put seat high enough. SRAManoruk and Shigura working well. Also need to reduce saddle downward tilt as I can't get away with that on wide flat bars (vs narrow drops). May ultimately have to change cockpit solution to something with rise and more backsweep.
Excited to ride it in the mountains and on the trails. But god damn does lwb and wide bars feel like shit in the city.
Pics attached.
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My son on the fm909.
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RDY, which handlebars are those? Syncros or chiner handlebars?
Edit: Missed your previous post that they're Syncros Fraser with Acros headset.
Great looking build!
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RDY, which handlebars are those? Syncros or chiner handlebars?
And the cassette?
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Yup, Syncros Fraser IC SL DC 760 /50, with the complementary stem cap mount for the Garmin. I'm not sure if it's going to be sustainable long term though. I may need more rise and backsweep - especially once I get a new dropper that will raise my seat height another ~3cm.
Garbaruk 10-52 Micro-Spline, with XTR 12s chain and Garbaruk 36T oval narrow wide chainring. Obviously SRAM AXS derailleur. Hence SRAManoruk.
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Complete. First ride and video coming soon (eventually).
I’m very impressed so far.
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...so jealous to see the color I wanted on all these bikes now 8)
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Is it clear tinted transparent or with speckles?
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...so jealous to see the color I wanted on all these bikes now 8)
Didn't you have the plan to replace your 505 with a new one...?
Also Gravel bikes look awesome in raw carbon .. 8)
I think ssparks and me even decided for the same decal color style. Only for the fork i went with rockshox in black with silver decals. ;D
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Didn't you have the plan to replace your 505 with a new one...?
Also Gravel bikes look awesome in raw carbon .. 8)
I think ssparks and me even decided for the same decal color style. Only for the fork i went with rockshox in black with silver decals. ;D
Mine are the diy route using my kids’ Cricut machine. Pretty entertaining to just download cool fonts and just create a totally new style and theme for the bike using different sticker vinyl colors.
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Mine are the diy route using my kids’ Cricut machine. Pretty entertaining to just download cool fonts and just create a totally new style and theme for the bike using different sticker vinyl colors.
I own a Cameo 4. And I used some high glossy metal shinevinyl from Ali that had a color flip from yellowish to silver to blue.
8) yeah this is pretty awesome stuff to create on your own. Meanwhile I am thinking of gold or copper brushed vinyl design for next year. ;D
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Finished.
Nice build, but you definitely should move the back light to some other place rather than keeping it on your dropper's stanchion.
Complete. First ride and video coming soon (eventually).
Awesome color! Are you using inner tube in your front tire? And if no, how does non-TR tire holds pressure?
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Nice build, but you definitely should move the back light to some other place rather than keeping it on your dropper's stanchion.
Awesome color! Are you using inner tube in your front tire? And if no, how does non-TR tire holds pressure?
No tube, just a liberal amount of Stans. Holds pressure fine.
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After some back and forth with Adam at Carbonda, they've agreed to replace my linkage with a new painted one and the set of double bearings that are stuck in it. They just want me to cut the old one when I install the new one. Will report back when I receive it ... hopefully this time painted without the bearings in it :D
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https://www.facebook.com/344264558942333/posts/pfbid02cn442XBzVdUVxLmNW5ZKHNhWJvCPCQsTukbvSgVq8aKprjK2NWnwSEytZ16XHaHsl/?sfnsn=mo
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I keep seeing riders purchasing FM909s but when will someone post a decent review of how these frames perform. Flexy? Stiff? handling? I wonder how a large frame would hold up to a 210+ rider....
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https://www.facebook.com/344264558942333/posts/pfbid02cn442XBzVdUVxLmNW5ZKHNhWJvCPCQsTukbvSgVq8aKprjK2NWnwSEytZ16XHaHsl/?sfnsn=mo
Looks pretty awful to me, and even without taking into account color scheme. Triathlon saddle and non-dropper post are definitely not the right parts for this frame.
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Vulkor isn't a triathlon saddle. A lot of people run them on MTB as well as road / gravel.
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After some back and forth with Adam at Carbonda, they've agreed to replace my linkage with a new painted one and the set of double bearings that are stuck in it. They just want me to cut the old one when I install the new one. Will report back when I receive it ... hopefully this time painted without the bearings in it :D
They sent it out today. Also sent photos showing it with the big double bearings installed and no wads of clearcoat in the gap. Probably have it around the new year. Will report back then.
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Does someone have picture of upper bearing inner spacer, that one with hole for cables? I'm thinking about 3Dprinting custom high top cap with holes to route dropper and derailleur cables through the headset.
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NBD
9,35 kg
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NBD
9,35 kg
Bike looks very nice. Which frame size is this one and how tall are you?
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Bike looks very nice. Which frame size is this one and how tall are you?
Frame size "medium" (1874 gr)
I am 176 cm tall
Inseam 83 cm
Update:
DT Swiss 232 Dropper Post
Now 9,65kg
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Frame size "medium" (1874 gr)
I am 176 cm tall
Inseam 83 cm
Update:
DT Swiss 232 Dropper Post
Now 9,65kg
Nice!
What rims do you have?
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Frame size "medium" (1874 gr)
I am 176 cm tall
Inseam 83 cm
Update:
DT Swiss 232 Dropper Post
Now 9,65kg
On paper, I have almost exactly the same proportions as you (176 /82).
Nevertheless, I am wavering between S and M. Did you happen to have the opportunity to test a S and can therefore clearly advise one or the other size?
Gruß Max
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Nice!
What rims do you have?
Elitewheels rim (27/33/29 XC)
Goldix 240 hub
Pillar 1420 spoke
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On paper, I have almost exactly the same proportions as you (176 /82).
Nevertheless, I am wavering between S and M. Did you happen to have the opportunity to test a S and can therefore clearly advise one or the other size?
Gruß Max
Hello Max,
i do not have the opportunity to test size m.
This was not necessary.
Size m "fits" perfect for me.
Therefore i can clearly advise size m also for you.
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FYI
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/carbonda-fm909-erfahrungsaustausch.968118/#post-18487684
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Frame size "medium" (1874 gr)
I am 176 cm tall
Inseam 83 cm
Update:
DT Swiss 232 Dropper Post
Now 9,65kg
Nice build!
One of our scales is lying....my build is similar. Full XTR, Sid ultimate fork/shock, light wheels, light brakes, light tires and I'm just under 25lbs. Large frame.
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Nice build!
One of our scales is lying....my build is similar. Full XTR, Sid ultimate fork/shock, light wheels, light brakes, light tires and I'm just under 25lbs. Large frame.
Maybe :-)
What tires/tubes dou you use?
Did you check the frame weight?
My medium frame weights 1874gr
Continental Cross King Race Sport 560gr
Continental Race King Race Sport 525gr
Tubolito 44gr
Wheelset 1300gr
XCX crank 350gr. vs. XTR 466gr
XTR 9100 Brake Set 404gr.
Garburak cassette 332gr vs. XTR 370gr.
Stem 82gr
Handlebar 150gr
Dropper Post 425gr
Saddle 105gr
Pedals 285gr
and so on...
I am happy with the weight.
If it's true or not :-)
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Maybe :-)
What tires/tubes dou you use?
Did you check the frame weight?
My medium frame weights 1874gr
Continental Cross King Race Sport 560gr
Continental Race King Race Sport 525gr
Tubolito 44gr
Wheelset 1300gr
XCX crank 350gr. vs. XTR 466gr
XTR 9100 Brake Set 404gr.
Garburak cassette 332gr vs. XTR 370gr.
Stem 82gr
Handlebar 150gr
Dropper Post 425gr
Saddle 105gr
Pedals 285gr
and so on...
I am happy with the weight.
If it's true or not :-)
oh wow. Had no idea those tires are that light....theres a ton of the difference right there.
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oh wow. Had no idea those tires are that light....theres a ton of the difference right there.
I have the same tires (well, same model name) but in TLR Protection Bernstein, that combined with sealant and airliners adds about 250g over the non-TL with tubolitos option. Lightweight non-TL tires with TPU tubes save a huge amount of weight over even flyweight TL options with liners. But it's obviously not an option in some riding environments - certainly not in mine with sharp bits of rock on trails, and glass EVERYWHERE in the city.
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Is it worth to pay paypal fee or go with f&f or maybe alibaba and visa?
From posts here I can see Carbonda is trustworthy (actually I could google only one bad case with them) and this buyer protection is not something I can rely on: paypal can deny case if something is wrong or force me to send frame back to get money back that is obviously very pricey from Europe. Or maybe pay the fee just to have "my last word just in case" option?
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Is it worth to pay paypal fee or go with f&f or maybe alibaba and visa?
From posts here I can see Carbonda is trustworthy (actually I could google only one bad case with them) and this buyer protection is not something I can rely on: paypal can deny case if something is wrong or force me to send frame back to get money back that is obviously very pricey from Europe. Or maybe pay the fee just to have "my last word just in case" option?
I use f&f every time, with Carbonda, Lightbicycle and Peter.
As they never did let me down.
Tried both PayPal or Visa protection with other vendors and even if it was obvious sellers fault, it went nowhere. As Europeans I feel these US companies have less obligations to protect us.
Aliexpress is kind of better, as long as the price isn't too high.
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Finally I've ordered one L for me and M for my kid in UD carbon gloss so now waiting for frames.
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Hi, I'm 184cm tall and have an 86 inseam, will size L be fine for me? Can someone who has this size and stockings confirm it for me? thank you
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Hi, I'm 184cm tall and have an 86 inseam, will size L be fine for me? Can someone who has this size and stockings confirm it for me? thank you
I just finished a geometry drawing for a build.
Here is the XL sizes for someone with 1m86 and 90cm inseam. And a 40mm stem.
You can see the distance between the saddle and bar, and the drop.
Compare this with your existing bike.
We took a L finally.
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Thanks for your answer. ;)
I upload 3 images, one with the current measurements on my bike, on your drawing in red with a 50mm stem, and another with the factory measurements. And carbonada measurements.
I think that size L may be fine for me.
What do you think?
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I'm 175, 85 inseam and bought L. But I use sqlab 16 deg bar and 35mm stem. This bar makes bike about 30mm shorter so I can use longer frame.. With normal bar I would buy M.
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Thanks for your answer. ;)
I upload 3 images, one with the current measurements on my bike, on your drawing in red with a 50mm stem, and another with the factory measurements. And carbonada measurements.
I think that size L may be fine for me.
What do you think?
Not sure about the comparison of the frame, but for the build I will do, the L was 18mm less from saddle to bar.
And the drop was 18mm more.
Quite a big difference compared to your current measurement.
And for you assuming a 760mm for the saddle height.
You would have 702mm saddle/bar.
And a 78mm drop.
All this with a stem of 40mm and 3cm of spacers.
So if you move your saddle 17mm forward and add a 18mm riser bar or more spacers you should feel at home with an L
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When doing my drawings I always missed a dimension to place the saddle precisely( the height from the BB when the seatube makes an angle )
I asked Wing if I could get it, and... a day later, I got all geometry files updated with the missing dimensions.
I may look a small thing, but this level of service always amaze me.
A scoop: its real name is FM 1206 !! 8)
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Are you stating that the Carbonda FM909 is really a Flybike FM-1206?
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Are you stating that the Carbonda FM909 is really a Flybike FM-1206?
Not me, Wing 8)
Well, seeing them side by side...
https://www.flybike-asia.com/product/179.html
http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/130.html
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It is for sure, Carbonda always sends FM1206 drawings.
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What was wrong with the axles? I always use the ones coming with the frame.
Putting some copper grease on the thread as they are hard to start with.
My only bad one is on my FM936 where I got a Torx30, that no multi tool has.
But by using/forcing an hex 6mm, I converted it ::)
Buddy of mine is building a 909 for his kid. Frame looks great, but the axle will not thread into the RD hanger. Axle isn't bent, so I'm thinking the frame holes don't align. The axle threads into the hanger just fine when its not in the bike frame. Anybody experience this and have a possible fix? We haven't tried grease, but curious if that was the problem the copper grease fixed.
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I had this problem with another frame. Take the hanger off the frame and try to put it on the hub. My problem was that the hub didn't fit in the hanger. I had to take off some material.
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I can't get the axle into the hanger with or w/o the hub. We've got two extra hangers, I may try grinding away on one of them.
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Ok. You can try to put off the hanger, then put the axle in the frame, screw the axle in the hanger and put the hanger back on the frame with axle in.
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Just noticed, that 909 weights were updated and now M is 1880g. It was 1770, wasn't it?
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My FM909 frame in size "M" weight 1874gr.
Maybe Carbonda update the weights!?
Actual weight of my xc/marathon built is
9,40 kg including pedals and dropper post.
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Awesome builds Arno!
Do you have any opinion regarding the performance of your FM909 or FM936 compared to something like an epic evo frame perhaps?
Love the bikes that you built up.
Kind regards
Christoff
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Hello Christoff,
thank you for the flowers!
The FM909 and FM936 are my first XC (race) bikes.
So i have no opinion regarding the performance of both compared to an epic evo frame.
But i am absolutly "happy" with both.
My FM909 built (100/100mm) is very playfull and my FM936 built (120/106mm) is more capable in dh.
Best regards
Arno
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Do you have any opinion regarding the performance of your FM909 or FM936 compared to something like an epic evo frame perhaps?
My bike mate is a recidivist S-Works victim ::). He paid his Epic Evo twice as my bling FM936 that is lighter, has more travel and better components.
And I can't see any advantage with Brain on climbing compared to my always open setup.
My FM909 frame in size "M" weight 1874gr...
A super light size L from a recent order, is about 2kg with some removable plastic parts
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Either they've updated design or website, or both. What's weight without plastic protectors?
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Either they've updated design or website, or both. What's weight without plastic protectors?
The frame did not arrive it yet, I'll weight the parts but it won't be a lot I guess.
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At this point there's no more weight difference with the 936 isn't?
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what is the current price for 909?
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what is the current price for 909?
I have paid 950,00 usd date: Nov. 14/2022
Without shipping!
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Same, paid at the beginning of January, not received frames yet.
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@Arno Knell, I've seen you used 70mm stem, why haven't you chosen L size frame and shorter stem instead?
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@Arno Knell, I've seen you used 70mm stem, why haven't you chosen L size frame and shorter stem instead?
@Eneen,
the large frame is to large for me :-)
For the main usage (xc/marathon) this setup should be fits perfect for me.
For down country i will use my fm936 with the new 120mm linkage (size m stem 45mm).
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the large frame is to large for me :-)
just for reference, what is your height?
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just for reference, what is your height?
176cm
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This is how transparent glossy over UD looks like (imgur video link):
https://i.imgur.com/iKXkvSA.mp4
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This is how transparent glossy over UD looks like (imgur video link):
https://i.imgur.com/iKXkvSA.mp4
;D
This is hot
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Does 909 come with seatpost clamp?
If not, could someone recommend one from ali?
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I'm planning a new XC/DC build but really want room for two bottles without some odd mounting option, and I'm not sold on the LC 918. After seeing the update to the FM936 for 120mm of travel I thought I would ask about the FM909 just to see. Here's the reply from Adam:
"Yes,we have updated 120mm travel linkage for FM936.
And we are also on developing the 120mm travel for FM909,this project should be done in 3 months.
The best regards!
Adam"
So realistically 4 months out? Glad that I asked and didn't move on something else.
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Two months ago he told me, that they won't do 120mm for 909, oh well...
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It will be new "rocker", so I guess same thing as with 936, quite high BB.
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I was going to ask here if someone did try to install a non-boost Eagle crankset with a 34T Oval on the FM909.
To have a better chainline on the big cogs, like I did on my FM936.
But then I did some research.
And found an article from WolfTooth: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/boost-chainline-and-chainrings
Telling that it is a quite bad idea on a 12sp 1x, as the chainring is 3mm more inward, and crosses more the chain on the 2-3 smaller cogs.
And it may touch the cog just above.
I instantly understood why my chains have this strange lateral wear.
So I wrote this other message to make you benefit from my smart trial... ::)
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Can you use an offset chainring?
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What is the maximum size dropper post/insertion for a medium sized FM909?
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285mm insertion for L from top of ST so just subtract...
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Can you use an offset chainring?
The ring is on a Sigeyi power meter, maybe with some shims I'll be able to move it outward.
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@Arno Krell, could you post link to titanium suspension bolts? Are they from aliexpress?
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@Arno Krell, could you post link to titanium suspension bolts? Are they from aliexpress?
https://titaniumplanet.com/de/federung/27-275-dampferachsen-aus-titan-7640413972391.html#/3-farbe-titan/26-lange-30_mm
https://www.fantic26.de/F26-Titan-Daempfer-SL-Gelenk-Achse-Schrauben-Fully-M6-Ingew-8x243136404550576480
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Still a part or two missing for a new build, but the big one arrived today! 8)
One honorable mention, SRAM is now taking care about the plastic, everything is in cardboard molds.
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New AXS shifter looks weird.
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New AXS shifter looks weird.
It takes less space than before, and the ergonomic doesn't look bad, to be confirmed when testing it.
The frame is, as expected, compatible.
And you define the length of the chain... yes, in the app !
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Anyone else with this frame thats having problem with Sram Axs adjustment?
Tried everything i can think of and I can make it run smooth and silent but then i end up in step 1 within adjustment.
Anyone else thats out of range in adjustment?
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Anyone else with this frame thats having problem with Sram Axs adjustment?
Tried everything i can think of and I can make it run smooth and silent but then i end up in step 1 within adjustment.
Anyone else thats out of range in adjustment?
My bet is you need some more self training, and calm practice.
Watch again the video in full.
The common harder issues are an improper chain length and a too tight B screw.
The easy ones are a bent hanger, the derailleur not screwed correctly or not well aligned with the right cassette cog, wheel axle not tightened to specs, or poor limit screws setup.
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New group set is sick, Cabonazza. I irrationally want to upgrade my 3 month old X01 AXS setup.
I definitely will upgrade to the new trigger pod even if I keep the 'old' derailleur.
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Latest update from Adam about the 120mm version. Currently in testing, almost ready for production, size Large by late July. It will use a 165x45mm Trunnion shock and 46mm offset fork (weird, I guess go for 44?).
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What is the dropper routing like? It looks like it might be a pain to get past the BB, or does the BB shell have a huge break in the middle?
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Sorry if this has been asked but does anyone have the super light version and what are the weights? I am looking for my wife who is about 45kg so durability is not a huge priority. I really want to get the overall weight as low as is reasonable $$$ wise.
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Sorry if this has been asked but does anyone have the super light version and what are the weights? I am looking for my wife who is about 45kg so durability is not a huge priority. I really want to get the overall weight as low as is reasonable $$$ wise.
You can only buy the SL version. My frame was 1800g if I remember correctly . I have size S...I wonder.. she must be smaller than me... ? if size S is OK? I am 1,70m
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You can only buy the SL version. My frame was 1800g if I remember correctly . I have size S...I wonder.. she must be smaller than me... ? if size S is OK? I am 1,70m
Oh so all the weights posted are the SL version of their size? good to know. yeah she is 170cm or so. Are you able to get 2 water bottles inside the frame?
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My M is 2000 and L 2050, both with axle.
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Oh so all the weights posted are the SL version of their size? good to know. yeah she is 170cm or so. Are you able to get 2 water bottles inside the frame?
1,70 or so?? "Or so" is not a good base for choice of size.
Besides that I hope that one of the values is wrong. ???
The frame allows 2 bottles... doesn't matter if S or XL, the vertical bottle has the same space ( checked that with another rider that has the XL)
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Over a year after it was built, and it still works great
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Sorry if this has been asked but does anyone have the super light version and what are the weights? I am looking for my wife who is about 45kg so durability is not a huge priority. I really want to get the overall weight as low as is reasonable $$$ wise.
9,4kg in size "M"
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1,70 or so?? "Or so" is not a good base for choice of size.
Besides that I hope that one of the values is wrong. ???
The frame allows 2 bottles... doesn't matter if S or XL, the vertical bottle has the same space ( checked that with another rider that has the XL)
well 171.45cm to be exact and 47.6271988kg so i figured my estimates were close enough ;D. not too worried about the fit as i have her current bikes geo. just looking to see if the weights are accurate. trying to decide between the FM909 or the LCFS918. both small frames seem to be very close in geometry. i just really don't like the cables through the headset of the LC918 but i have had 5 or 6 frames from LC so i am familiar with them. i have never dealt with Carbonda.
Any one know what their US pricing is? i have reached out to them but no response after a few days. Also what is there paint charge?
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You may accept, that 47kg with 1,72m are a very seldom combination. And the question "is this really correct " is understandable. :o
Pricing of frame is always the same as its in $. Shipping could be different
Painting depends on what you want.
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You may accept, that 47kg with 1,72m are a very seldom combination. And the question "is this really correct " is understandable. :o
Pricing of frame is always the same as its in $. Shipping could be different
Painting depends on what you want.
Yeah it is understandable. No offense taken. Thank you all for your help. I will try to reach out again to carbonda to get pricing. I definitely like the weights I am seeing for this bike.
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9,4kg in size "M"
With a 120mm fork and pedals ?
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With a 120mm fork and pedals ?
With a 100mm sid sl / 100mm fox transfer sl dropper post and pedals!
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Here's the XX I was slowly building for someone. My frame was shipped today !
Still waiting the rider for the cockpit settings, cut the fork and put the grips on.
XX transmission
No big deal to mount. But I had to play with micro-shifting to get it smooth.
The shifting under load is nice, need to see if really useful.
Not convinced by the new design, I prefer the more stealthy look Eagle AXS had before.
Magura MT8 brakes
Had some pain with the bleeding, but I'm now a Magura bleeding expert 8)
The rear caliper mount was not faced correctly, and the frame does not offer enough room for my VAR facing tool.
So I had to file them manually :o
Headset
The top crown race didn't allow a proper compression of the headset.
So I used a FSA ACR one I had around. Will check with Carbonda...
The bike ready to ride as pictured is 10.1 Kg
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... didn't have room for more pictures 8)
The wheelset
XC924 rims with DT-240 EXP hubs and carbon spokes from lightbicycle.com (http://lightbicycle.com)
1038g !
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... didn't have room for more pictures 8)
The wheelset
XC924 rims with DT-240 EXP hubs and carbon spokes from lightbicycle.com (http://lightbicycle.com)
1038g !
I'm really tempted by these rims for my new FM909 build, but they're so narrow. What size tires do you have on them?
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I'm really tempted by these rims for my new FM909 build, but they're so narrow. What size tires do you have on them?
Yes they are narrow, the tires are 2.25"
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... didn't have room for more pictures 8)
The wheelset
XC924 rims with DT-240 EXP hubs and carbon spokes from lightbicycle.com (http://lightbicycle.com)
1038g !
That's very strong!
May I ask what you had to pay >:( ?
Those carbon spokes are really not cheap ;D
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That's very strong!
May I ask what you had to pay >:( ?
Those carbon spokes are really not cheap ;D
$1,550 shipped to Europe
Which is about $300 more than with Sapim CX-Ray
I'll build one 909 for me in the coming weeks.
And ordered wheels even lighter.
I'll report about them when received.
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... didn't have room for more pictures 8)
The wheelset
XC924 rims with DT-240 EXP hubs and carbon spokes from lightbicycle.com (http://lightbicycle.com)
1038g !
What brand are those spokes? did you custom order them cause i have never seen carbon spokes listed on their website? that is a crazy light wheel set and they look awesome.
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What brand are those spokes? did you custom order them cause i have never seen carbon spokes listed on their website? that is a crazy light wheel set and they look awesome.
If I understood correctly their own.
Feel free to ask your questions at sales@lightbicycle.com
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I'm looking for a new frame, and the FM909 caught my interest.
Can anybody give me the max insertion for a seatpost on a medium sized frame?
Thanks :)
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Don't have drawing of size M, but it will be 255 (285-30)
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Has anyone mounted a Sigeyi potentiometer?
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Has anyone mounted a Sigeyi potentiometer?
I have one on my FM936, and will be using one when I build my FM909. It has worked flawlessly.
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I'm currently in the process of building mine up. So far so good but I have a small issue with cable routing. Not getting the cables in but using the frame plastic covers/grommets at the frame exits.
Is there any way of putting the plastic cover for single housing cables at the headset exit on the right / drive side? It came shipped with the dual housing one on the right hand side and a bigger single housing one on the left. I'd like to swap them for neater cockpit cable routing but I cant get the single one to fit on the right side, as if it was too big. The dual housing cover clips in properly on both sides.
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Is there any way of putting the plastic cover for single housing cables at the headset exit on the right / drive side? It came shipped with the dual housing one on the right hand side and a bigger single housing one on the left. I'd like to swap them for neater cockpit cable routing but I cant get the single one to fit on the right side, as if it was too big. The dual housing cover clips in properly on both sides.
For the left side with two cables, I ordered this plug.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000707728299.html?spm=a2g2w.orderdetail.0.0.6b764aa66NTPZ3&sku_id=12000018167261292
I cut it on one side and inserted it when the cables had already been laid. Holds up and looks good.
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For the left side with two cables, I ordered this plug.
https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000707728299.html?spm=a2g2w.orderdetail.0.0.6b764aa66NTPZ3&sku_id=12000018167261292
I cut it on one side and inserted it when the cables had already been laid. Holds up and looks good.
Thanks for the recommendation! I ordered the ones you mentioned and some others that look like they would fit. In the meantime I might file one of the spare plugs (no remote lockout needed) to fit in the exit.
On a related note, did anyone use internal cable housing dampers? I have none installed yet and nothing seems to rattle when I drop the bike but now would be the time I guess :)
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Thanks for the recommendation! I ordered the ones you mentioned and some others that look like they would fit. In the meantime I might file one of the spare plugs (no remote lockout needed) to fit in the exit.
On a related note, did anyone use internal cable housing dampers? I have none installed yet and nothing seems to rattle when I drop the bike but now would be the time I guess :)
Yes, people have used damper tubes to encase the cables. If you do a search in this thread there are a few of them.
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Thanks for the recommendation! I ordered the ones you mentioned and some others that look like they would fit. In the meantime I might file one of the spare plugs (no remote lockout needed) to fit in the exit.
On a related note, did anyone use internal cable housing dampers? I have none installed yet and nothing seems to rattle when I drop the bike but now would be the time I guess :)
Maybe too late now, but I would recommend using them. I did not use any on my FM936 and there is definitely some rattling. I did use them on my FM1001 and it is silent.
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Maybe too late now, but I would recommend using them. I did not use any on my FM936 and there is definitely some rattling. I did use them on my FM1001 and it is silent.
Not too late :D I installed dampers on all 3 housings yesterday, also for peace of mind. Was easier than I thought to get them on without pulling everything out again.
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(https://i.imgur.com/YIGPpki.jpeg)
11.3kg with pedals and bottle cages. ~3700€ total build cost with Sid/Sidluxe Ultimate, XT M8100 everything and cheap Go-Zone wheels with Novatec Hubs
Finished building it up last week already and rode 120km on local trails. Initial impressions are very positive. Bike feels light, fast, pedals well and nothing creaks or rattles. Fills the gap between my gravel bike and a chunkier trail bike very well :)
Still waiting for frame plugs as a last finishing touch. Will get some more from Carbonda, the ones from AliExpress already arrived. Lets see which ones fit best.
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Latest update from Adam about the 120mm version. Currently in testing, almost ready for production, size Large by late July. It will use a 165x45mm Trunnion shock and 46mm offset fork (weird, I guess go for 44?).
Hi, so Carbonda is planning a 120mm version of this frame? Will it maintain the same geometry or will it get slackened out?
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Hi, so Carbonda is planning a 120mm version of this frame? Will it maintain the same geometry or will it get slackened out?
I checked in with Adam mid July. He said it was now mid to late August for production and has not provided any other details. I asked for the updated geo chart at one point but it was not available and he said that he would send it out when he had it, but he hasn't been great about following up on this. I'll send another email tonight since mid August is next week.
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I asked for a quote about FM909 and they added:
FM-909 120 travel version accepts order:
Pricing: 965USD, 50USD discount for pre-sale orders. (Estimated to be completed by the end of Aug)
very very intresting! :)
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Updated geo chart attached. Longer wheelbase and front-center, higher/less bb drop. Still in production, may be done end of August.
Also, chart shows 46mm offset for the fork but Adam claims 51mm is fine. Fox is currently selling the 34 step cast for $200 off, but only 51mm is available, 44mm sold out.
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Updated geo chart attached. Longer wheelbase and front-center, higher/less bb drop. Still in production, may be done end of August.
Also, chart shows 46mm offset for the fork but Adam claims 51mm is fine. Fox is currently selling the 34 step cast for $200 off, but only 51mm is available, 44mm sold out.
Nice! I'm on the short size of Small (5'5" - 165cm). Not sure I like the longer reach and WB. The reach is 15mm longer than my Enduro bike. But I appreciate them keeping it at 67HTA and not go too crazy towards downcountry. For an XC bike, I'm not to worried about the fork offset. Enduro forks are running 44 offset for longer stable trail number. The 51 offset will result in quicker steering which I think it's good for XC. If you want downcountry go for 44 offset, if you want XC go for 51 offset.
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Here is my bling build !
Finally in the blue I wanted...
With the XX transmission + blip box + multi-click blips, this time without 3D printing needs.
Click right for a harder gear, click left for an easier gear, when both are clicked it's for the seatpost.
Unfortunately the wireless blips(no more expensive blip box needed) do not have yet the option/firmware? for the seatpost action.
The 2024 SID fork 110mm and SIDluxe shock, they have 3 positions now.
I was about to start the build, when the 2024 models arrived in the ... matching color, so I returned both to r2-bike, and ordered these instead.
Lightbicyle XC924 wheels, with aero carbon spokes at 1035g :o
I took off the Piccola brakes from my FM936(replacing them by ONIRII ones)
One special mention for Fire Spider https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100268111 for the bar, excellent product and great contact with the seller.
Fire Spider are the higher end products of Toseek.
It has all the holes to pass the cables, hoses with internal routing(I know top bearings rust... but it's so cute ::))
I'll order a longer front hose to make it internal too, and drill the fork steerer.
I did 2 rides of about 70km so far.
With impossible objectivity 8)... It feels much faster and more nimble than my 120mm FM936
Especially when climbing. Love it !!
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@Carbonazza : finally you joined the blue side !
And you got the new blue SID . I was pretty sure that this might be a perfect fit to the blue raw carbon.
;D enjoy your ride. 8) you could add some crome colour shift decals.. I still feel that's a great match to the carbon blue.
But if you don't... it's already amazing as it is.
Which size is the frame?
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That looks sweet! Is that factory paint or custom job? Just UD carbon and a tainted clear medium coat?
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@Carbonazza,
beautiful (excellent) built up!
Which size ist the frame?
Total weight incl. pedals?
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Wow! super nice bike!
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Thank you for the nice comments :)
@pedaldancer, this was years of continuous blue research, the frame, the brakes, and finally the fork 8)
I'm not really a frame decal guy, the sid logo in chrome could be an upgrade.
@Ludo, it is raw carbon, with a blue tinted clear coat, it looks like it has tiny metallic sequins too.
@arno, it is a size M and weigh 9.52kg
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Thanks for your reply. Was that home made paint job or pro? I have been looking for tinted clear coat in spray can without much luck.
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Thanks for your reply. Was that home made paint job or pro? I have been looking for tinted clear coat in spray can without much luck.
That's from Carbonda ::). There are already a couple of photos in exactly this color in this thread from my frame.
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@Carbonazza - My new favorite build on here! Easily the prettiest.
I've really wanted to play around with a blip-box on my Spark to eliminate my shifter pod and dropper lever. What is the pricing (estimate) for the setup you have? (Not including derailleur or seatpost)
The handlebar setup is attractive as well. I'm currently using the Syncros 1-piece knock off from AliExpress and it's fine, but a bit flexible compared to an aluminum stem and carbon flat bar I replaced. Can you comment on stiffness of the bar you have?
I have so many questions, but last one for now, how are the wheels? On your advice I went LB XC925 featherweight rims and then laced them to CX-ray spokes and onyx Vesper hubs. Great wheelset but not exactly light at 1440g. I love the hubs and rims so the only way to make them lighter would be spokes. Was thinking Berd, but yours looks like an option as well.
Keep up the awesome builds. You inspired me to get on the waiting list for Piccolas. I'll figure out how to pay for them and sell my wife on them when they get to me in a year. ;D
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That's from Carbonda ::). There are already a couple of photos in exactly this color in this thread from my frame.
To be fair to Ludo, the most recent pic of yours, unless I missed one, is 7 pages back from November last year and in that pic at least, it looks a different blue.
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To be fair to Ludo, the most recent pic of yours, unless I missed one, is 7 pages back from November last year and in that pic at least, it looks a different blue.
As i explained also: this colour is just very dark blue unless you sparkle in the sun. If you expect that sparkling sun color always ,you will be very sad.
It IS the same blue. If you don't want to believe it... then don't.
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Thanks guys for the answers. I went back a few pages but not all the way to page 7/8
I am sure really liking in the sun and living in Houston, we have our fair share of it.
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Thanks guys for the answers. I went back a few pages but not all the way to page 7/8
I am sure really liking in the sun and living in Houston, we have our fair share of it.
It was supposed to be a hint for you to look for those photos, which you could look for in the thread.
Personally , the more photos of a certain color I see, the more I get a good idea about reality.
The photos from november last year are from someone else, but this is also the same color. For the raw carbon colored versions there are not that many colors available..i have seen blue as ours, red, orange, and a greenish color.
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I looked after the post was up, appreciate the guidance. Like many paints, sun truly shows the depth and variation on non flat surface. This one is truly superb!
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As i explained also: this colour is just very dark blue unless you sparkle in the sun. If you expect that sparkling sun color always ,you will be very sad.
It IS the same blue. If you don't want to believe it... then don't.
Never said it wasn't the same colour, just noting that it doesn't appear the same colour as your most recent pick which was 7 pages back and coming up on a year ago, as you seemed disappointed that peope were reacting as if it was new..
I do remember your many posts from back then because it did look so good when it was glittering and I hadn't seen much like it previously.
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It was supposed to be a hint for you to look for those photos, which you could look for in the thread.
Personally , the more photos of a certain color I see, the more I get a good idea about reality.
The photos from november last year are from someone else, but this is also the same color. For the raw carbon colored versions there are not that many colors available..i have seen blue as ours, red, orange, and a greenish color.
So this isn't your pic?
I own a Cameo 4. And I used some high glossy metal shinevinyl from Ali that had a color flip from yellowish to silver to blue.
8) yeah this is pretty awesome stuff to create on your own. Meanwhile I am thinking of gold or copper brushed vinyl design for next year. ;D
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currently torn between M or L size for the FM909
My size on the Epic Pro L size, the geo on the M seems more similar to the M size?
But the L size on the FM909 could be similar in sitting position if I used a 50mm stem.
Quite confused with the super modern geometry.
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So this isn't your pic?
Do you want to argue? Why are you responding like that? Do you think that's helpful ? Well, if yes, continue. If not, stop it. It is your interpretation that I was angry. Usually I tend to help, but if someone is questioning me what should I say..believe me or don't.
If this is not fine for you, just ignore me. (By the way : now I am angry. But its because of you not because of the color question. I gave the information and added additional information and you attack me... wow. Really crazy. )
Yes this is also mine. I didn't see it. But there was someone else posting photos around that time.
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Do you want to argue? Why are you responding like that? Do you think that's helpful ? Well, if yes, continue. If not, stop it. It is your interpretation that I was angry. Usually I tend to help, but if someone is questioning me what should I say..believe me or don't.
If this is not fine for you, just ignore me. (By the way : now I am angry. But its because of you not because of the color question. I gave the information and added additional information and you attack me... wow. Really crazy. )
Yes this is also mine. I didn't see it. But there was someone else posting photos around that time.
Wow, talk about misreading posts.
Never said it wasn't the same colour and yet you say " It IS the same blue. If you don't want to believe it... then don't." directly responding to me.
Never said you were angry. I said you seemed disappointed, two completely different things.
I said your most recent pic was from November and 7 pages back and you said they weren't your pics, in fact your words were "Those photos from November are from someone else" That confused me because I genuinely thought they were yours which is why I asked for clarification by quoting the exact post I had referred to.
Maybe settle down a bit Pedaldancer and make sure you comprehend what has actually been said before you start having a go at other member.
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Wow, talk about misreading posts.
You started the discussion in saying I seemed to be disappointed.
With this I won't reply anymore to this.
I could write a lot also now , but as You want to understand me writing aggressive, it's just not fruitful.
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You started the discussion in saying I seemed to be disappointed.
With this I won't reply anymore to this.
I could write a lot also now , but as You want to understand me writing aggressive, it's just not fruitful.
No, I started the discussion with
To be fair to Ludo, the most recent pic of yours, unless I missed one, is 7 pages back from November last year and in that pic at least, it looks a different blue.
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currently torn between M or L size for the FM909
My size on the Epic Pro L size, the geo on the M seems more similar to the M size?
But the L size on the FM909 could be similar in sitting position if I used a 50mm stem.
Quite confused with the super modern geometry.
You may way to list your height, inseam, and arm span. Can't give a recommendation for sure since we don't know if you're on the short/middle/tall end of a large on the Epic. But the large FM909 would be more comparable to large Epic, it'll feel way different though. The reach is longer, but the seat tube angle is steeper, meaning the saddle is further forward and closer to the handlebars. So that 30mm extra reach is negated by the steep STA.
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You may way to list your height, inseam, and arm span. Can't give a recommendation for sure since we don't know if you're on the short/middle/tall end of a large on the Epic. But the large FM909 would be more comparable to large Epic, it'll feel way different though. The reach is longer, but the seat tube angle is steeper, meaning the saddle is further forward and closer to the handlebars. So that 30mm extra reach is negated by the steep STA.
Thanks. That's what I thought as well. Since you can't be fussing around with offset seatposts on a MTB and a dropper.
I'm 179cm with long torso and short legs (inseam of 81cm). I also have positive APE Index. I typically prefer 56cm road bikes and L sized MTBs. The Epic EVO L is definitely my size. I'm currently running the Voice Rhapsody VP4 on Large Size as well.
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Thanks. That's what I thought as well. Since you can't be fussing around with offset seatposts on a MTB and a dropper.
I'm 179cm with long torso and short legs (inseam of 81cm). I also have positive APE Index. I typically prefer 56cm road bikes and L sized MTBs. The Epic EVO L is definitely my size. I'm currently running the Voice Rhapsody VP4 on Large Size as well.
We couldn't be any more similar in our sizing lol. I'm also 179cm, 82cm inseam, 185cm arm span. I've got a large FM936 (identical geo except longer seat tube) with an 80mm -17deg stem. I could see the preference for a shorter stem, but a medium would be way too short. I believe there are set-back add-ons for droppers, but that would be the wrong choice in my opinion. If you were to put a set-back post on a medium to have the saddle to bar distance be comfortable, you'd end up with a rearward weight balance. So my opinion is that if you wanted a slacker seat tube angle, then you should probably be on a bike designed for one. If you're okay with a steep seat tube angle, then a large is the right choice.
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@vipassana Thanks for the kind words! :D
The blip box and blips were from a build that got cancelled. If you’re considering this setup, you’ll need to figure out the mounting.
On my 936, I used a 3D-printed match maker between the piccola and the blip. But in this case, the included mounts fit perfectly where I needed them.
Then the routing, and figuring out a stable spot for the box. The good news is you can now micro-adjust the rear derailleur using the app. Before, I had to take apart the fork just to access the box.
The bar doesn’t seem to flex. They claim it’s T1000 carbon, and it’s well built, both inside and outside. I’ll push it a bit more on my next ride and see if I notice any special flex.
Regarding the wheels, using the same rims and spokes as yours but with DT 240 hubs would save you over 100g. This time, I chose the XC924, which is slightly lighter than the XC925 but narrower.
Once you get over the sticker shock :o, the piccola are awesome brakes. A simple design, they feel great to actuate, and never had a bad surprise even on long descents.
I'm not sure what is DT-Swiss doing from them.
It was definitely easier to get some before.
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@vipassana, the bar doesn't flex at all... well that I can notice 8)
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I asked SP cycle if they would give that paint style a god, in dark green or candy red, I should hear back tomorrow…
Carbondale frame are a bit out of my reach.
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I asked SP cycle if they would give that paint style a god, in dark green or candy red, I should hear back tomorrow…
Carbondale frame are a bit out of my reach.
For which frame?
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SP M06
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I did 2 rides of about 70km so far.
With impossible objectivity 8)... It feels much faster and more nimble than my 120mm FM936
Especially when climbing. Love it !!
Are you able to know how this feeling is influenced by the differents components vs your 936, especially the wheels which are probably much more faster?
Can you spot the difference in the suspension behaviour between 909 and 936?
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It is half a kilo lighter. This can help in that feeling, especially in the climbs.
Yes the wheels seems easier to accelerate, but mostly I feel them much stiffer.
I did an enduro week with my 936 and SID 120mm, not sure why but I guess I wouldn't go with the 110mm.
In my usual trails, which are XC like, I didn't feel I lost anything with the smaller fork.
I didn't investigate more, but the top of the head tube is vertically 25mm lower from the ground.
This may explain why I felt initially being more over the bike with the 909, than in the bike with the 936.
Are you able to know how this feeling is influenced by the differents components vs your 936, especially the wheels which are probably much more faster?
Can you spot the difference in the suspension behaviour between 909 and 936?
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Another brand using this frame:
https://audaxbike.com/bike/191/fs-900-axs
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I also ordered an FM909 bike. While waiting for my frame, I was looking for a dropper.
I am thinking of this dropper.
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003458713810.html
The seatpost diameter is 30.9mm.
But what is the maximum travel: 100/125/150? I hope someone can help me. Thank you in advance!
Other recommendations are more than welcome since it is my first DIY build :)
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When did it cost you?
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Carbonda told me it was 120mm linkage will be available this week
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Carbonda told me it was 120mm linkage will be available this week
Is this true? Carbonda plans a linkage for FM909 to support 120mm travel suspension?
Any link you can share?
Thanks & regards,
Michael
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Is this true? Carbonda plans a linkage for FM909 to support 120mm travel suspension?
Any link you can share?
Thanks & regards,
Michael
Yes, my friends and I have already ordered 3 120mm linkage. Carbonda promised that she would send the goods as soon as possible
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I'm 5'5" (165cm) tall. Anyone my height or shorter riding this frame in size Small? What length stem you using? Honestly, I'm not about sizing as it has 15mm longer reach than my Enduro bike! And longer reach than most XC or DC bikes I've seen or tried. I understand the steep STA helps and the ETT is fine. But does this bike feel balanced when cornering and do you feel you need to stretch out to properly weight the wheels?
I am consider this frame in 120mm or the Santa Cruz Blur TR (much shorter reach, but slacker STA).
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Here is my bling build !
Finally in the blue I wanted...
With the XX transmission + blip box + multi-click blips, this time without 3D printing needs.
Click right for a harder gear, click left for an easier gear, when both are clicked it's for the seatpost.
Unfortunately the wireless blips(no more expensive blip box needed) do not have yet the option/firmware? for the seatpost action.
The 2024 SID fork 110mm and SIDluxe shock, they have 3 positions now.
I was about to start the build, when the 2024 models arrived in the ... matching color, so I returned both to r2-bike, and ordered these instead.
Lightbicyle XC924 wheels, with aero carbon spokes at 1035g :o
I took off the Piccola brakes from my FM936(replacing them by ONIRII ones)
One special mention for Fire Spider https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100268111 for the bar, excellent product and great contact with the seller.
Fire Spider are the higher end products of Toseek.
It has all the holes to pass the cables, hoses with internal routing(I know top bearings rust... but it's so cute ::))
I'll order a longer front hose to make it internal too, and drill the fork steerer.
I did 2 rides of about 70km so far.
With impossible objectivity 8)... It feels much faster and more nimble than my 120mm FM936
Especially when climbing. Love it !!
I always want to use a 70mm integrated handlebar. Now I found it thanks.
Does washers and chassis come with handlebar match with fm909 frame?
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Thank you for the nice comments :)
@pedaldancer, this was years of continuous blue research, the frame, the brakes, and finally the fork 8)
I'm not really a frame decal guy, the sid logo in chrome could be an upgrade.
@Ludo, it is raw carbon, with a blue tinted clear coat, it looks like it has tiny metallic sequins too.
@arno, it is a size M and weigh 9.52kg
May I know your height?
I am 174cm ( 5'9") and use a size M frame with a 60 mm Carbonda handlebar. I feel 1 cm short.
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May I know your height?
I am 174cm ( 5'9") and use a size M frame with a 60 mm Carbonda handlebar. I feel 1 cm short.
I am 176/83cm.
Size M with a 70mm Stem.
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I planned to use size M for my daughter when she grows up to about 147cm, but decided that I order second frame, size S for her. She will use S up to 157 and M above 157 or so. I'm 175 and I've got L, but I use 35mm stem and 16 deg sqlab bar that moves hands about 3cm closer to the saddle. With "normal" bar I would have to buy M. S has 445 reach, but with 77.6 saddle angle you will be a lot closer to the bars then on old-school 74 deg STa frame.
I've ridden this frame this season and it's very nice, very capable bike. HTa is bit steeper then on enduro bikes, but this makes steering easier as the "flop" is lower.
If I were you I'd go with M+35mm+sqlab16 to get longest bike possible, but if you prefer 9deg bars then S+35mm stem should be fine.
I wouldn't buy 120mm 909 as it rises BB too much.
Blur TR has HTa 67.1 and STa 75.1, so it doesn't come any close to 909. You will be about 2cm farther to the back. Climbing with steeper STa is so much easier actually.
I'm 5'5" (165cm) tall. Anyone my height or shorter riding this frame in size Small? What length stem you using? Honestly, I'm not about sizing as it has 15mm longer reach than my Enduro bike! And longer reach than most XC or DC bikes I've seen or tried. I understand the steep STA helps and the ETT is fine. But does this bike feel balanced when cornering and do you feel you need to stretch out to properly weight the wheels?
I am consider this frame in 120mm or the Santa Cruz Blur TR (much shorter reach, but slacker STA).
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I'm 5'5" (165cm) tall. Anyone my height or shorter riding this frame in size Small? What length stem you using? Honestly, I'm not about sizing as it has 15mm longer reach than my Enduro bike! And longer reach than most XC or DC bikes I've seen or tried. I understand the steep STA helps and the ETT is fine. But does this bike feel balanced when cornering and do you feel you need to stretch out to properly weight the wheels?
I am consider this frame in 120mm or the Santa Cruz Blur TR (much shorter reach, but slacker STA).
I am 1,70 with 80cm legs , not very long arms (don't have that value, I am no T Rex but also not a chimpanzee ;D
I ride size S with a 60mm stem and a 120mm fork. Sure M with very short stem could work but, based on my former bike I didnt want to have 35mm stem.
And it's not a "city bike riding" .. I do sit sporty... the exact choice depends on more than leg length and overall length. It also depends on your arm length, on your preferences, the style of arm bending, your way of holding the hands (I always ride with bent arms) ... that all gives easily a lot of cm variations between people with same body height..
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Is this true? Carbonda plans a linkage for FM909 to support 120mm travel suspension?
Any link you can share?
Thanks & regards,
Michael
Yes, it ist true.
My 120mm linkage arrived and installed yesterday.
HA: 66°
BB high: 338mm
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100mm linkage vs. 120mm linkage
120mm linkage right hand.
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Is the only difference the linkage? You use the same shock length and stroke? Hopefully it would be OK with a 120mm fork (im fine with it slackening the HA a little I just wouldnt want to weaken the frame from the extra fork length)
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Is the only difference the linkage? You use the same shock length and stroke? Hopefully it would be OK with a 120mm fork (im fine with it slackening the HA a little I just wouldnt want to weaken the frame from the extra fork length)
I also replaced the fork SID SL 100mm with a SID Ultimate 35.
I use the same shock SIDluxe Ultimate 165x42,5mm.
But i removed the green 2,5mm spacer (stroke reducer).
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Is the only difference the linkage? You use the same shock length and stroke? Hopefully it would be OK with a 120mm fork (im fine with it slackening the HA a little I just wouldnt want to weaken the frame from the extra fork length)
The linkage only pushes the rear wheel further into rebound, raising the BB and giving more clearance from the seat stay bridge to seat tube. If you use the same shock, you'll have the same travel, you'll just ride higher. You'll need a 165x45mm (or remove the travel reducer during a rebuild from a 40 or 42.5) to the take advantage of the travel. A lot of people use 120mm forks on these, and with the longer linkage raising the rear end, a 120mm fork is preferred to keep geometry in check.
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I always want to use a 70mm integrated handlebar. Now I found it thanks.
Does washers and chassis come with handlebar match with fm909 frame?
Yes, it matched.
However there is no rubber sleeve integrated, it would have made the bearings more protected
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May I know your height?
I am 174cm ( 5'9") and use a size M frame with a 60 mm Carbonda handlebar. I feel 1 cm short.
178cm, long legs(89cm inseam) long harms.
Everyone is different.
For a coming build, I suggested the guy to go first with a stem+bar first.
UNO stems are cheap to test. And when he's sure, we'll get him the integrated bar.
Cheaper and more precise than a bike fit.
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Got my frame today. Too bad its winter and snowy in Sweden.
The weight is with rear axle, ”dummy-shock” and ”protective” for seattube.
hello! what code color?
view awesome
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The frame was bought in 21, the bike's mileage is 2000 km
Today I discovered several cracks. I wrote to carbonda, I hope they offer a replacement rear triangle. But the 2 year warranty has already expired, so they are no longer obligated to send a replacement.
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The frame was bought in 21, the bike's mileage is 2000 km
Today I discovered several cracks. I wrote to carbonda, I hope they offer a replacement rear triangle. But the 2 year warranty has already expired, so they are no longer obligated to send a replacement.
Ouch I hope they will be back to you in any case because 2000 km are not enough to justify those cracks
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Hi all,
I finally got my Frame FM909; it took more than 3 months. I also ordered an HB156 handlebar with a headset from Carbonda. I'm using a SID Ultimate Race Day fork. I do have a question, and I hope you guys can help me out.
The integrated handlebar, Flybike HB156, comes with spacers but without any other information like a drawing or torque information :). Do I need a star nut or an expander for this handlebar? I've watched a couple of YouTube videos, and most forks are using a star nut, but this steeringtube is aluminium and the handlebar is carbon, so do I need an expander plug, isn't it? There is no information about how tight I need to screw those handlebar bolts. Do you have some advice about the torque?
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Can't help with torque but star nuts are fine if the steerer tube on the fork is aluminium.
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The decision to take a star nut or expander has nothing to do with the used stem.
Carbon forks just really don't like the scratching from star nuts.. for aluminum as at the Rockshox they are fine to use
.
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Great thanks for the advise.
I will use a star nut in this case.
Found on other forums that they use a torque of 4-6 N/m for carbon bars.
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Ouch I hope they will be back to you in any case because 2000 km are not enough to justify those cracks
The official warranty for the frame is 2 years and it ended 4 months ago. But Carbonda looked at the photos and decided to send me a new rear triangle for free and even paint it for free
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The official warranty for the frame is 2 years and it ended 4 months ago. But Carbonda looked at the photos and decided to send me a new rear triangle for free and even paint it for free
Udp:
For accurate gradient paint like on the original triangle they asked for $50. I think it's a great price and great service
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909 is getting fatter again. Now M is listed ad 1950g. Old google search shows 1750g, I guess it was at the beginning.
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909 is getting fatter again. Now M is listed ad 1950g. Old google search shows 1750g, I guess it was at the beginning.
That is getting ridiculous, like the 936 became fatter with age. They still call it super light. I believe it’s to avoid crash replacements but it’s not a good policy
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Hi,
I'm wondering what the latest feedback is on FM909 vs FM936, now that both are available with 120mm travel. A couple of years ago, there was a post saying that the 909 wouldn't be as good for downcountry use because of the lower support at mid-stroke.
Thanks for any feedback that people may have.
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Hi all!
The information will be useful for those who want to buy a 120mm link separately for the 909 frame.
The new link is a little thicker than the old one and does not fit into the stays with the original washers. The situation was repeated on three 909 frames with new links. During installation, one of the frames cracked.
To properly install a new link, you need to grind spacer washers of a different thickness (the photo shows my washers, which were made for me in the workshop)
We wrote to Carbonda, we will wait for a response
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Can you please support which damper bushing do i need?
Especially the width for dox damper
Is it exactly 30mm, or little bit more or less
Thanks