Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: radfactor on July 12, 2023, 01:48:06 AM
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While I casually browsing Aliexpress, I found this cool looks like an aero bike from Hygge.
The paint job looks great and it even sponsored a continental team from Poland, Team Bialini.
Is there anyone from this forum already test this frame?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005213767330.html
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S10a384ddd6864351bda6c4e2692f15847.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sc77263734f9d4c4c9686f5c3891a994bp.jpg)
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I've seen them on Ali and they do look nice from the pictures, but the only shipping option to my country is Fedex which costs roughly 1100 euros. Hard pass.
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No experience with the brand.
Looks like a VB168, a Long Teng 268, a Winow 368, and various Workswell models that are overpriced and impossible to get anyway.
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I really like the look of these frames. Especially the black and dark grey...
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This trend of one-bike-to-rule-them-all SL7 androdioecy needs to stop LoL.
I understand it both from a pragmatic and functional perspective. However, it's not as exciting anymore.
Uniformity is turning into conformity.
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I really like the look of these frames. Especially the black and dark grey...
True that. Other colors are pretty cool too or may be these guys are really good at taking photos. I messaged them on Alix and they do "without logo" version too at no extra cost as long as it is one of the colors from their list. The guy responding to my queries spoke really well too, confidence inspiring.
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Yeah, I crashed my 1 month old TFSA frame last sunday. Cracked the chainstay and would cost more than half the cost of a new frame to repair (without paint) so not really worth it. So this Hygge frame is now looking very tempting. There seems to be this matte gray where you can see the carbon structuren judging by the review picture...
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Yes, "no logo carbon black" shows the carbon layup apparently. Hope you are okay after the crash, sounds like a serious mishap.
Edit, did you buy your TFSA from TFSA Keming store? Those guys seem to have best prices for SL7 type framesets.
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Yes, "no logo carbon black" shows the carbon layup apparently. Hope you are okay after the crash, sounds like a serious mishap.
Thanks. Broke my collarbone and I have surgery tomorrow :-X
Ordered a Zwift Hub today so I can start moving again ASAP :)
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Whoops! Best wishes for the surgery then. You seem determined though...way to go!
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Thanks.
I bought the TFSA from the "TFSA Official Store" on Ali. I got the frame with the integrated handlebar for a nice price. There were some problem with pruduction and shipping though which delayed the order by about 2-3 weeks... I was't too happy with it at the time but all went relatively well and the frame (I took the sl6 lookalike) is quite OK. 28mm rear tire is very tight though...
I was quoted 250 eur for the repair, so not really worth it on a 450Eur frame...
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Maybe use the TFSA frame as a dedicated Zwift bike after some DIY repair with fiberglass or carbon layup with epoxy resin?
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Maybe use the TFSA frame as a dedicated Zwift bike after some DIY repair with fiberglass or carbon layup with epoxy resin?
That was exactly what I was planning. Cheap 2x11 sensah group...
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That was exactly what I was planning. Cheap 2x11 sensah group...
Dedicated Zwift bikes do seem to be the killer app for Sensah given that you don't even need to have brakes.
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Dedicated Zwift bikes do seem to be the killer app for Sensah given that you don't even need to have brakes.
Well, I changed my mind and hunted down some more Ultegra R8000 parts. Just got 2 hydraulic shifters, both derailleurs, cassette and chain for not much more money than the Sensah equivalent. Now I just need to find a nice pair of second hand disc brake callipers... I changed my mind because it would be a lot easier just to buy the same components so I don't need to switch out everything from one frame to the next. I ordered a Senicx PR3 30-46T crankset because it was on sale for only 74USD.
I'm also very close to ordering the Hygge frame. I asked the seller for some more pics of the matte carbon look and the black on black paint and they were very fast to answer and sent some nice pictures. I think I'm gonna go for the BOB with the logo's...
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Little update: I just ordered the Hygge model S in BoB (Black on black I suppose?) size 49 and a 80*380 handlebar. The seller is very fast to answer (one of the best I have dealt with till now). But they always are very helpful until the sale is made in my experience ;D After that it is a gamble...
They assured me the frame and handlebar are in stock and will be shipped in 2-3 days.
It will be build up with the Ultegra R8000 hydraulic groupset with mechanical shifting. I hope I will not regret getting an integrated frame with all these cables...
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You might already have the cable routing tool so you should be good even with 4 cables to manage. If not, definitely recommend to get one. I have RISK branded tool and for the price its rather effective.
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You might already have the cable routing tool so you should be good even with 4 cables to manage. If not, definitely recommend to get one. I have RISK branded tool and for the price its rather effective.
I've just re-built my fully mechanical VB-R-168 using the risk cable tool and it was pretty straight forward. Tool is well worth the money.
Started with routing the bars first, coming in through the stem and out through the each end of the bar. Then the frame from front to back.
The first time I built it I routed the frame first (again starting at the front) then did the bars, I would't recommend this way as it took WAY longer and was much more stressful.
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Thanks for the tip. I bought a routing set when I was building my Carbonda 696 but I haven't needed it till now, so we'll see how it goes.
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Hi sir,
It's great to hear you ordered this frameset. Yes I agree the salesperson is so attentive. Hopefully can hear more from you once you received it.
Little update: I just ordered the Hygge model S in BoB (Black on black I suppose?) size 49 and a 80*380 handlebar. The seller is very fast to answer (one of the best I have dealt with till now). But they always are very helpful until the sale is made in my experience ;D After that it is a gamble...
They assured me the frame and handlebar are in stock and will be shipped in 2-3 days.
It will be build up with the Ultegra R8000 hydraulic groupset with mechanical shifting. I hope I will not regret getting an integrated frame with all these cables...
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Hi sir,
It's great to hear you ordered this frameset. Yes I agree the salesperson is so attentive. Hopefully can hear more from you once you received it.
I will keep you all updated here. I hope it is indeed in stock and I receive the frame in about 2 weeks since I am out of a road-bike since the crash...
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Definitely keeping an eye out for the update. I have let go of the fascination I had with Airwolf all road and VB CX002 and looking for a purely road bike, the Chamaeleon-black color in this frame has me hooked.
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I have let go of the fascination I had with Airwolf all road and VB CX002
I own both of those frames and quite frankly neither of them get used anymore. Shame really because both are good.
At the end of the day I'm pure road guy. With frames, groupsets, and wheels being so affordable now you really don't need an all road frame unless you absolutely do not have the space for multiple bikes. All road bikes come with compromises at both ends of the road and gravel spectrum.
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I own both of those frames and quite frankly neither of them get used anymore. Shame really because both are good.
At the end of the day I'm pure road guy. With frames, groupsets, and wheels being so affordable now you really don't need an all road frame unless you absolutely do not have the space for multiple bikes. All road bikes come with compromises at both ends of the road and gravel spectrum.
True that! I also realized my VB GF002 is almost an all road since I exclusively run it on 32c GK SS. I bought and never ever installed the second wheel-set with 43c tires.
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So I've contacted their Ali store and asked about other possible shipping options (1.1k for Fedex is bit too much), after few measages and 40 minutes the seller has set up Aliexpress shipping option. I supposely it's partly because it was day time in China, but it's still the fastest communication I've experienced with Aliexpress.
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So I've contacted their Ali store and asked about other possible shipping options (1.1k for Fedex is bit too much), after few measages and 40 minutes the seller has set up Aliexpress shipping option. I supposely it's partly because it was day time in China, but it's still the fastest communication I've experienced with Aliexpress.
Yeah, same here. They are insanely fast and thourough...
I am guessing this is not some 1 person third party seller like most on Ali but it is a factory store... In the pictures they sent me there are boxes and boxes of frames on warehouse racks in the background.
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Yeah, same here. They are insanely fast and thourough...
I am guessing this is not some 1 person third party seller like most on Ali but it is a factory store... In the pictures they sent me there are boxes and boxes of frames on warehouse racks in the background.
Yeah, they have Facebook page and they have posted actual pictures of frame with ton of boxes visible in background. Also, there are pictures of molding of rim brake version of this frame
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The more I research this company/factory the more I like what they're doing.
Whether or not their frames are open mold it's nice to see the perception of an actual brand at this price point. Decals, paint options, and solid customer service it seems. A company like this can help alleviate some of the anxiety for first time Far East frame buyers.
I'm kind of tempted to test one their aero frame in either white or chameleon. Even though I criticized them earlier in this thread :-X
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FWIW their IG is one of the better ones too. Definitely not one man show operation. Talked to them again on Aliex and they sent some pictures of the chamaeleon color frame in different lighting because the ones on Aliex are pretty dark, and if I needed more they asked me check their IG page which has a lot of stuff posted.
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The more I research this company/factory the more I like what they're doing.
Whether or not their frames are open mold it's nice to see the perception of an actual brand at this price point. Decals, paint options, and solid customer service it seems. A company like this can help alleviate some of the anxiety for first time Far East frame buyers.
I'm kind of tempted to test one their aero frame in either white or chameleon. Even though I criticized them earlier in this thread :-X
I think the frame is their own mold. They have shown pictures of new mold of rim brake version and I haven't had any luck in finding someone else sell this frame under their brand
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Eager to know if the quality of this frame is great or not. If and only if, at least the quality is the same as Speeder R52D, it will be a great bang for the buck frameset.
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Isn't the Speeder around $750 just for the frameset with handlebar? That would make it over 30% more expensive than Hygge.
Did some more research, it's the same mold as Winow FM236. I wonder if they just use the same tooling/molding or are they actually made by the same factory.
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Little update:
Since they said they would ship in 2-3 days and we are now on day 3 I decided to ask for an update... They responded very fast, but it was an answer I have gotten a lot from sellers when buying a frame lately: "The factory is painting the frame". I was a little annoyed by this since my last frame purchases were riddled with delays like this* so I have lost trust in Ali sellers by now...
They responded later that the factory was ready with painting and the frame will be shipped tomorrow.
Will keep you guys updated...
* A few examples of seller problems:
===- OG-Evkin has been promising to send me a replacement frame for my CF-052 HT frame with cracked BB for A MONTH now. Communication has gaps of a week and it's always "next week this and next week that". The factory is now painting the frame according to them (after 1 month) and should be shipped "next week". I will have to pay for shipping, and they have been promising to send the payment link for weeks now (it's always "tomorrow"). Since they will not send this payment info I am sceptical they will even send me a frame and for the time being I will presume they are keeping me occupied by just promising stuff until I give up.
- When ordering my TFSA frame I really had to keep pushing the seller and it took ages for them to confess something had gone wrong in production so there would be delays. Shipping also wasn't smooth and the frame was stuck for more than a week not far from the factory
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So anther day, another delay...
This morning there was a message that they had already packed the order but they put a 90*380 handlebar in and asked if this was OK (I ordered the 80*380).
Since I am very picky about my position on the bike I said I needed the 80mm.
Their answer: Is a 80*400 OK because the 80*380 will take some more days...
I again said I need the 80*380... Before I ordered I specifically asked if this was in stock and they said yes.
So for the time being I am not very impressed by this seller... We'll see how it goes on. The 2-3 days shipping they promised, will be closer to one week. Still not bad but I really don't like the constant over-promising and under-delivering...
I just don't get why all these sellers keep making promises they know they won't keep.... (well, of course they do this to get you to order...)
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They answer fast but their answers are...
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They answer fast but their answers are...
Haha. This made me chuckle, not gonna lie.
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I just don't get why all these sellers keep making promises they know they won't keep.... (well, of course they do this to get you to order...)
Exact same thing I had happen with me a few days ago. Hope you get it soon.
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I understand all the frustration. Unfortunately, this is normal when contacting some sellers thru AliEx especially when there are using auto-translation.
This is different when we contact reputable sellers such as Farsports and Elitewheels and professional ones such as Speeder Cycling and Adapt Bikes.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
You are right. I would just wait a couple of days. I have seen this happen when I ordered my TFSA frame. Chances are it will go back to normal after a while.
FYI: My frame has shipped yesterday... (although we all know "shipped" can have a lot of different meanings on Aliexpress)
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Prices back to normal it seems...
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Was advised that rim brake version will be coming online this month. Smalls first, followed by mediums.
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Is it just my app going crazy or did the prices of all Hygge products went up by 200€? Frame was around 600, now it's 800, Pro wheels were around 800, now they are over 1000, cheaper level wheels were 500, now they are over 700.
this is kinda common on Aliexpress.. items are permanently on 'sale' with some discount, and on Aliexpress sales they drop more, so every now and then the price goes up for a few days (max) then comes back down
so they can say it's the full price, and advertise you're paying 25% off, and on actual sales it's 50% off - while, in reality, it's less than that discounts
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Today from their FB page. Dang that looks good.
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My frame seems to be in Germany since yesterday, so I'm hoping to receive it in the next couple of days. So it has been very fast shipping until now.
Edit: the frame should be here tomorrow. That's VERY fast :)
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Please do let us know what you think about the frame when you receive it
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And tell us about this issue ???
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Ooooh, so it is that new paintwork that Patrick has shared pics from their Facebook page :o
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Ooooh, so it is that new paintwork that Patrick has shared pics from their Facebook page :o
No, this is the BOB option. Part matte and part glossy. The pics that Patrick posted are all glossy over the naked carbon I believe
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No, this is the BOB option. Part matte and part glossy. The pics that Patrick posted are all glossy over the naked carbon I believe
I see, thanks for clearing that up. I'll probably order this frame as well, had few different options but it seems like this frame has the mix of good looks, decent clearance for tyres and threaded BB. And the handlebar seems to be the same as The One/Kovlici/Rpantahi etc
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Nice frame! I definitely like the bare carbon look under the gloss, looks very slick! Also the threaded BB area looks clean as well.
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Dang, that's a nice frame!! Very beautiful! Finishing seems really nice too, and that color with the carbon visible is insane, it gives a nice touch to the parts
please keep updated about the next steps on the build and any difficulty you run into, I'm planning on building a new bike next year, and Hygge is definitely in my radar!
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Dang, that's a nice frame!! Very beautiful! Finishing seems really nice too, and that color with the carbon visible is insane, it gives a nice touch to the parts
please keep updated about the next steps on the build and any difficulty you run into, I'm planning on building a new bike next year, and Hygge is definitely in my radar!
Damn, I should have asked for an influencer discount ;D
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The BB area looks much more beefier than the TFSA frame. I'd be curious to hear how this bike rides in comparison.
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Glossy parts are black paint with glossy varnish above or it is the raw carbon directly varnished in matte and glossy?
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Glossy parts are black paint with glossy varnish above or it is the raw carbon directly varnished in matte and glossy?
It's all paint over raw carbon. You see all the carbon under the paint.
I've just put the cables through the handlebar. I was afraid of this because I never did it, but it went quite well :D
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The new color pictures that Pat shared and what TD bought seem to be same except for the black v/s shiny laser decals?
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The new color pictures that Pat shared and what TD bought seem to be same except for the black v/s shiny laser decals?
Nope. Pat's all glossy. Mine is half glossy half matte.
And the decals are different indeed. I didn't want them to be too obvious.
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Wonder if you could order no logo/decals?
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I've been in constant touch with them (Aaron?) pushing them to get their rim brake version made available...only have size 49 on hand, others to follow soon. He assured me that they will customize almost any color/logo combination that is within their capabilities. Check out their Instagram for some examples.
This is a smoking deal if the quality is real.
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Wonder if you could order no logo/decals?
You can but takes longer than ones with logo because they produce frames with logo by default and are kept in stock.
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You can but takes longer than ones with logo because they produce frames with logo by default and are kept in stock.
I think it will not matter. They said my frame was in stock but after I ordered they still had to paint it. So "in stock" does only mean they have a raw frame in your size it seems :)
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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I did the cabling yesterday evening. It took me about 2 hours >:(
I really was thinking this would take me a lot less time, but it was my first time doing a fully integrated cabling and the 4 cables really don't make it easy. So I attribute the difficulties more on my lack of experience with this kind of routing than on the frame. Doing the routing from the front to the back (I started with the handlebars) makes things a lot harder than the other way around when going through the frame.
The rest will be for tomorrow...
Does anyone know if it is normal that the handlebar now centres on it's own because of the cables in the frame? If I tilt the frame to one side the handlebar stays in the centre and does not tilt to one side... For now the brifters are not mounted, so it's only the weight of the bar.
I recently built 4 like that. Such a pain. Especially when you realize you forgot to pass through the spacer thing between the frame and the bars, and have to re-do it :) Depending on the order of the cables exiting the stem and entering the frame, it can mess up the balance of things. If it's centered, I guess it's good. I have no issues turning the bars 90 degrees or more when the bike goes in the car, for eg, and the routing has not negatively impacted handling for me.
My next builds will be w eR9, looking forward to routing 2 housings and not 4...
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I recently built 4 like that. Such a pain. Especially when you realize you forgot to pass through the spacer thing between the frame and the bars, and have to re-do it :) Depending on the order of the cables exiting the stem and entering the frame, it can mess up the balance of things. If it's centered, I guess it's good. I have no issues turning the bars 90 degrees or more when the bike goes in the car, for eg, and the routing has not negatively impacted handling for me.
My next builds will be w eR9, looking forward to routing 2 housings and not 4...
Yeah, it looks great, but now I know why I ordered my TFSA frame without the all internal cabling...
And it looks like the upper bearing is also not really sealed from the elements because there is a tiny gap (barely visible though) between the headset cover and the frame. On the TFSA frame there is a rubber seal between that cover and the frame. I guess this is standard with these fancy headset covers but it does not help to keep the water off the upper bearing. I can't imagine the hell I must go through to replace that bearing in the future :o
I also like to use a lot of grease on the headset bearings when installing. I put a lot of grease everywhere before routing the cables, so after wrestling for a couple of minutes with all the cables/ fork/frame/handlebar everything was full of grease. Should have kept the grease for the end...
And the handlebar is more or less centred and I can move it freely from left to right. It only just does not fall to one side when you tilt the frame like it does on my other (non fully integrated) frames.
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
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I found the same geometry from another brand:
539,83€ 20%OFF | Winowsports 2024 New Carbon Bicycle Frame FM236 Road Disc Brake Frame 46/49/52/55cm BSA68 Bottom Bracket
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGc5Q87
So if it's the same, as this Winow frame specifies, it should fit a Tarmac D-shape seatpost
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
18mm offset is the seatpost
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Couple of questions - Aliexpress listing shows that 4 spacera are included, are they 10mm spacers or 5mm? Or a mix of two?
Do you perhaps know what's the offset of the searpost? It looks to be around 15mm, but just want to make sure. Still not sure if geometry of the bike is what I want - both seat tube amd head tube angles are pretty slack. The bike should be super steady at higher speeds, but I can't say I want a dead steering either
As far as I can tell, I have 3 spacers. 2 of 10mm and 1 of 5mm. And than there is the part that covers the headset and the part that goes right under the stem. It all fits very nicely and looks very good once installed. I used 1 spacer of 10mm for now.
It's this handlebar. Here you can clearly see all the parts: https://a.aliexpress.com/_msz3dSW (https://a.aliexpress.com/_msz3dSW)
The angles are indeed more slack compared to my TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone) and it seems to be somewhat in the middle of the SL6 and my gravel bike (Carbonda 696).
Since I'm more about distance and less about speed, I think this might be a good thing. I must confess I did not check this before ordering ;D
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I found the same geometry from another brand:
539,83€ 20%OFF | Winowsports 2024 New Carbon Bicycle Frame FM236 Road Disc Brake Frame 46/49/52/55cm BSA68 Bottom Bracket
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGc5Q87
So if it's the same, as this Winow frame specifies, it should fit a Tarmac D-shape seatpost
It looks to be the same. But according to that page, the recommended sizes are totally different... According to their chart I should have gone with the 46 instead of the 49 :o
How do you know the Tarmac seat post will fit? That would be very interesting for the future...
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It looks to be the same. But according to that page, the recommended sizes are totally different... According to their chart I should have gone with the 46 instead of the 49 :o
How do you know the Tarmac seat post will fit? That would be very interesting for the future...
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
Yeah, that's what I was thinking also...
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I'm 95% sure that what they mean is proprietary seatpost. Seen this on many different listings of different frames (specialized as in made specially for the frame)
Yes, I asked it :'(
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Looks very clean. How was the build experience with this frame?
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Looks very clean. How was the build experience with this frame?
It was OK. Not much to report :)
It would be nice if they had supplied some grommets / stoppers for the cables. Now the cable of the rear and front derailleur and the rear brake just pass through a hole in the frame. I'll see if I can add some grommets to the front and read derailleur cable if I can find some.
The standard bolt with the fixing pin for the rear caliper was too long, so I had to use a shorter one I had lying around.
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It was OK. Not much to report :)
It would be nice if they had supplied some grommets / stoppers for the cables. Now the cable of the rear and front derailleur and the rear brake just pass through a hole in the frame. I'll see if I can add some grommets to the front and read derailleur cable if I can find some.
The standard bolt with the fixing pin for the rear caliper was too long, so I had to use a shorter one I had lying around.
That's a slick looking frame! I'm tempted to pick one up and set it up with electronic shifters!
You didn't use a stopper for the rear? That will cause shift issues if the RD cable isn't held in place. My SPcycle frame was setup for Di2 and didn't come with an RD cable stopper. I couldn't find a stopper that would fit (smaller than normal), so I ended up using a Jagwire barrel rocket adjuster instead that did the trick.
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You didn't use a stopper for the rear? That will cause shift issues if the RD cable isn't held in place. My SPcycle frame was setup for Di2 and didn't come with an RD cable stopper. I couldn't find a stopper that would fit (smaller than normal), so I ended up using a Jagwire barrel rocket adjuster instead that did the trick.
Well, it is full outer housing front to back, so I don't see the problem. Am I missing something? It would just look better to put a grommet around the hole in the frame where the cable exits...
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Well, it is full outer housing front to back, so I don't see the problem. Am I missing something? It would just look better to put a grommet around the hole in the frame where the cable exits...
I thought you were using the plastic guide tubes internally. Just curious, you don't find using the full cable housing on the RD a bit stiff? Usually the supplied cable on Shimano rear derailleurs tend to be more flexy.
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I thought you were using the plastic guide tubes internally. Just curious, you don't find using the full cable housing on the RD a bit stiff? Usually the supplied cable on Shimano rear derailleurs tend to be more flexy.
Yes, it is stiff, but since the frame is fully integrated I don't see any other way of routing than 1 cable from front to back with outer housing. There are no stops anywhere in the frame to stop the cable...
After a couple of indoor rides I have a better feeling of the frame. I had to replace the carbon seat by my standard seat to decrease the setback of the saddle (the carbon does not go forward far enough) and now my seat is in the most forward position possible... I could have seen this coming because the TFSA frame had the same and this had a less slack seattube angle... I am aware this problem will not impact a lot of people because I seem to like a more forward position than most (kneecap right above the pedal axle is too far back for me, so I set it a few cm more foreward)...
I have asked Hygge if they have a 0mm setback seatpost, but since there is non on their webshop I expect the answer to be no...
Edit: I also asked the Ali store that sells the Winow frame (same frame). There is no seatpost without setback for now, but if I order 100 they will design one 8)
Edit #2: Hygge also said they don't have it and suggested I search Aliexpress to find one that fits. But the ones I find are not the right size...
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Yes, it is stiff, but since the frame is fully integrated I don't see any other way of routing than 1 cable from front to back with outer housing. There are no stops anywhere in the frame to stop the cable...
After a couple of indoor rides I have a better feeling of the frame. I had to replace the carbon seat by my standard seat to decrease the setback of the saddle (the carbon does not go forward far enough) and now my seat is in the most forward position possible... I could have seen this coming because the TFSA frame had the same and this had a less slack seattube angle... I am aware this problem will not impact a lot of people because I seem to like a more forward position than most (kneecap right above the pedal axle is too far back for me, so I set it a few cm more foreward)...
I have asked Hygge if they have a 0mm setback seatpost, but since there is non on their webshop I expect the answer to be no...
Edit: I also asked the Ali store that sells the Winow frame (same frame). There is no seatpost without setback for now, but if I order 100 they will design one 8)
Edit #2: Hygge also said they don't have it and suggested I search Aliexpress to find one that fits. But the ones I find are not the right size...
If you can't find a 0 setback seat post, I'd look into the Lexon/Ryet 3d printed saddles. The rails are quite thick and I've been able to move my saddle a bit more forward, passed the max limit. Since we're similar size/weight, I think you'll be able to do the same. If using a standard carbon saddle, another trick I found was wrapping the rails in electrical tape. It'll prevent slippage, you won't have to tighten the clamp as much and it'll reenforce the rails. Doing so allows you to also push the saddle a bit more forward.
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I've already pushed my saddle as far forward as possible... Past the marks... All the carbon saddle i see seem to have a lot shorter rails in the back. My saddle is only 190gr,so not bad.
Today i noticed my Giant Power Pro powermeter also got damaged from the crash >:( the left side does not register power any more and I can't use the right side only it seems... So searching for a new powermeter now... :-\
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@tidy
Did you get a coupon for that?
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@tidy
Did you get a coupon for that?
Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Complete rubbish practice right there...
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Is this forum being stalked by the Chinese frames and parts manufacturers now? Not to mention all the AliEx bike YTers looking for ideas on their next videos? ;D
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
that's not ok, at all...
I'd try to contact them to clear that out, and for sure start some talk about coupon/discount, you being the 1st here to get the frame and sharing info, for sure will get many people interested (I included) and most probably get some sales for Hygge - that alone is worth something, not even considering the photo situation
but yeah, not a professional approach from them for sure. But having work with chinese companies for about 7yrs now (in home appliances), I'd say there are many amateur approaches from them that are in all innocent, which are not excuses of course, but helps understanding
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Yeah, having been a part-time photographer in a past life, I am kind of sensitive to this kind of practises... I contacted them on IG. We'll see if we can work something out...
I could use a new HT MTB frame since OG-Evkin stabbed me in the back. But the Hygge MTB frame seems to have a very slack head tube angle...
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the thing is that most Chinese frame/bike builders are not able to take aesthetic pictures of their products.
The angles of the finished bikes are always so bad... it looks like the handlebars are pointing like a pretzel towards the sky...
... yes - and yours look just fantastic ;-)
They could fly you in as a photographer and pay you handsomely (in whatever form) - you seem to like your work.
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Yeah, having been a part-time photographer in a past life, I am kind of sensitive to this kind of practises... I contacted them on IG. We'll see if we can work something out...
I could use a new HT MTB frame since OG-Evkin stabbed me in the back. But the Hygge MTB frame seems to have a very slack head tube angle...
Really interested in how they will respond... Keep us posted! :D
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They remove the post
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Yeah, I saw it... ::)
They just took my pics and used them without asking... :-\
Can you change your picture link to Winnie the Pooh riding their bike and tank their social credit score?
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Well, they responded fast and friendly, so I am going to leave it at that... :D
This weekend will be the first outdoor ride with the bike (1 month after the crash in which I broke my collar bone). I will keep you all updated.
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They remove the post
Still seeing it on FB.
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Still seeing it on FB.
Thank you for reporting it... I'll message them again.
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Thank you for reporting it... I'll message them again.
Dude, all they had to do was ask your permission and give you ample credit as a valued customer. They should now offer you a custom 0 setback seat post for the inconvenience!
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Dude, all they had to do was ask your permission and give you ample credit as a valued customer. They should now offer you a custom 0 setback seat post for the inconvenience!
I told them I would accept a MTB frame as compensation. More almost free publicity for them... But I guess not...
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Not to mention all the AliEx bike YTers looking for ideas on their next videos? ;D
;D Funny how the Youtube videos tend to trail just a bit behind the conversations on here.
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Edit: removed post because of Hygge stealing my pictures.
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Just bought the full black no logo and without handlebar. They discounted 60$ for that. Plus the 70€ code of the Back to school sales, I paid 468€.
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Just bought the full black no logo and without handlebar. They discounted 60$ for that. Plus the 70€ code of the Back to school sales, I paid 468€.
Nice, keep us updated! Did you really get a 70€ coupon? Where did you find that?
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Nice, keep us updated! Did you really get a 70€ coupon? Where did you find that?
Plenty of discounts and discount codes this week in AliExpress
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And another Hygge IG account has stolen my pictures... They have even made a reel from it this time...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8xkpxBTtWWMVbo8crnnnpQQoIp7nxuqhdMZkRHn_7ZkIh_BjN6ney93T00VIKi97pASBvx7KvDa3ex5EpXlv6V0FVLz3xMq7HSXLw_EqVHD9qFimnR=w1920-h1080)
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Plenty of discounts and discount codes this week in AliExpress
Maybe it would be a good idea to make a new thread with compilation of deals of the on going sale? Hygge frame only shows 20€ off coupon, but some items seem to have a nice discount (i.e. Elitewheels Edge wheelset is around 540€ shipped)
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And another Hygge IG account has stolen my pictures... They have even made a reel from it this time...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AIL4fc8xkpxBTtWWMVbo8crnnnpQQoIp7nxuqhdMZkRHn_7ZkIh_BjN6ney93T00VIKi97pASBvx7KvDa3ex5EpXlv6V0FVLz3xMq7HSXLw_EqVHD9qFimnR=w1920-h1080)
I think there are just stoked to see their bikes in the hands of the consumers and what to show it off :)
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Hey guys.
I’m getting mine tomorrow.
Finally arrived in the country.
Bought the frame, wheels and 105 Di2.
Custom paint aswell.
Will keep you updated on the build
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Will keep you updated on the build
Is there any news about your build? How is the frame's general build quality?
How are the technical details solved on these typically crucial parts:
Seatpost and saddle clamp? Headset cone and cable routing? Fork/steerer safety?
On Instagram you announced a Youtube review coming soon? I'm really looking forward to it!
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Yes, I am also interested in a good review. I actually own a vbr218 that I find a bit too sluggish.
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I actually own a vbr218 that I find a bit too sluggish.
What about the VB 218 did you find sluggish? You are not the only person to mention this. Last summer I said my VB 168 was sluggish, and the people here were not happy :-X
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During sprints, I find it flexes vertically a bit too much and does not transfer power as it should. Also during fast rides and descents, I can feel the frame absorbing a lot of the road profile instead of staying reactive (if that makes sense). I am 185lbs and 6ft+, so not the lightest and my sprints will go around 1000w. I might push the frame to its limit, not sure.
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I still need to rebuild that bike with the replacement frame that was sent under warranty. The seat post area I showing small cracks. Maybe it will feel different and I would keep it for superflat rides. It still a super comfy bike.
Thats why I am looking at this Hygge, if decently stiff
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@TidyDinosaur
Yo any new updates on how bike feels?
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Yeah...
@all
Do you think the Hygge is a good performance all-rounder like the giant tcr or the tarmac?
Or is the Hygge in first option for flat routes like the giant prople or the canyon aeroad?
Or which frame is a better performance allround race bike?
Speeder sc52, yishun 1058-D, or adapt at-b01? But they are all not available, cause my country, no stock, or no consumersale ☹️
For the yishun, i maybe see a chance.
Thank you for your reply :)
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I haven't done much km's on the bike but have done a 90km (flat) ride sunday.
The bike performs good and I don't really have complaints. I find the ride to be a little to harsh though. I think the frame and the handlebars are a lot stiffer than my previous TFSA frame (Wheels and tires are the same). I actually preferred the TFSA frame for the comfort. In a weird way I even like the look of the TFSA frame better (I have it on my indoor trainer now). The Hygge frame looks great, but I like the simple look of the TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone).
I also still have heel strikes on the chainstays with this frame, even with the 5mm longer pedal axles, 1mm extra pedal spacer and I adjusted my cleats to have my heels further outward (not great for my knees I think).
I also regret getting a frame that has no 0-setback seatpost option... None of the carbon saddles have rails that are far enough to the back for them to fit for me.
So there is nothing wrong with the frame, but if I would have to choose again now, I think I would order the TFSA SL7 clone or the identical Delihea Tank Machine. Prices are about the same as the Hygge Model S and Delihea has some nice simple paint schemes.
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Do you have links for the delihea tank machine or the TFSA sl7 clone?
Are they still available at Aliexpress or do they have own websites?
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Do you have links for the delihea tank machine or the TFSA sl7 clone?
Are they still available at Aliexpress or do they have own websites?
You can just search for them on Aliexpress :)
Delihea: https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html (https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html)
TFSA: https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6 (https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6)
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You can just search for them on Aliexpress :)
Delihea: https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html (https://delihea.aliexpress.com/store/group/REST-II-TANK-Machine/3001063_10000001924870.html)
TFSA: https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6 (https://tfsa.aliexpress.com/store/group/JH-33-Disc-Full-Inner-cable/912068069_10000003201455.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_6001028414123.1_2_6)
One thing to add is that I did have problems with the seatpost slipping on the TFSA (and I am not alone in this). I did manage to solve it with some cloth tape on the seatpost, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste. The Hygge seatpost just stays fixed as is with 5Nm torque.
One plus for the TFSA frame is that you can buy a replacement seatpost for the frame from multiple vendors and you can ask them for a 0-setback seatpost with less setback when you order the frame. TFSA did it for free. Delihea wanted 10USD extra I believe.
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I have never heard of delihea....
Is there any experience here? Specifically also because of this frame?
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I have never heard of delihea....
Is there any experience here? Specifically also because of this frame?
It is exactly the same frame as the TFSA frame I linked. They only give it a different coat of paint if I am correct.
You can find some reviews of the Delihea frames on youtube. Just use DuckDuckgo it.
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I haven't done much km's on the bike but have done a 90km (flat) ride sunday.
The bike performs good and I don't really have complaints. I find the ride to be a little to harsh though. I think the frame and the handlebars are a lot stiffer than my previous TFSA frame (Wheels and tires are the same). I actually preferred the TFSA frame for the comfort. In a weird way I even like the look of the TFSA frame better (I have it on my indoor trainer now). The Hygge frame looks great, but I like the simple look of the TFSA (Tarmac SL6 clone).
I also still have heel strikes on the chainstays with this frame, even with the 5mm longer pedal axles, 1mm extra pedal spacer and I adjusted my cleats to have my heels further outward (not great for my knees I think).
I also regret getting a frame that has no 0-setback seatpost option... None of the carbon saddles have rails that are far enough to the back for them to fit for me.
So there is nothing wrong with the frame, but if I would have to choose again now, I think I would order the TFSA SL7 clone or the identical Delihea Tank Machine. Prices are about the same as the Hygge Model S and Delihea has some nice simple paint schemes.
Repente Magnet and all SMP saddles have 80mm long rails, Ergon and the other models of Repente/Leonardi are 70mm and Selle Italia some models like Flite Boost are 75mm long
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So today I've done my 3rd ride with the frame. 120km group (6 people) ride.
- I'm now sure the frame is much stiffer than the TFSA frame I had. With my 28mm tires with 55 / 60 PSI, I feel every little bump in the road. So if you are looking for comfort... this is not the frame to get...
- For the moment there IS a problem with the seatpost slipping... Between the beginning of the ride and the end the seatpost went down about 1,5cm... And of course this scratched the seatpost...
Now I have upped the torque to 6Nm, cleaned the post and again added a lot of carbon paste AND put some mild threadlocker on the bolt. We'll see if this helps...
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
According to their facebook page, their mail adress is "sales@aisurfproducts.com". I did a quick googling session and I found their CEOs LinkedIn (https://cn.linkedin.com/in/aaron-luo), but could not find and more info on their mother company "A&I Enterprise Limited". Their main business seems to be surfboards, as their (dead) website was called "www.aisurfproducts.com".
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Has anyone been able to find the following details below directly from Hygge?
-Location/Mailing/Shipping Address
-Factory Location
-Return Policy
-Warranty Information
Not even their "official" website has any company information or "About Us" page. Every single Chinese brand I've tested from VeloBuild, Dengfu, TanTan, Rinasclta, and Yinshun all the way up to Yoeleo/Winspace has this information easily available.
For myself who is constantly swapping frames this probably would not be a deal breaker. Especially for a $500 frame. However, for the general public I would be cautious. The first red flag was Hygge stealing TinyDinosaur's photos. I'm not questioning the legitimacy of their business but the details outline above is standard business practice. I would inquire about this if I were buying a frame.
Even popular AliExpress Chinese bike seller OG-Evkin has this information available on their official website.
(Rant on) Yeah, and I learned the hard way that OG-Evkin warranty is worth nothing. Even worse: they will lie and play you for 6 weeks before ghosting you... (/rant off)
I am thinking maybe Winow sports is the producer or at least closer to the producer of the frame. When I informed about a 0-setback seatpost Hygge just said they do not have them. The seller of the Winow Sports frame asked me if I was a reseller and they could supply it when I would order 100 of them...
Here is the frame on the Alibaba site of Winow: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.2.62532281QMojoA (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.2.62532281QMojoA)
But hey, it is clear Hygge is reading this topic, so they should make an account and reply to us :)
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You can find the Business Licence of the Hygge Ali store here: https://shoprenderview.aliexpress.com/credential/showcredential.htm?storeNum=2309008&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_9151269.0 (https://shoprenderview.aliexpress.com/credential/showcredential.htm?storeNum=2309008&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_9151269.0)
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I've ordered one of these framesets to build up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed as my second road disc brake bike. Currently says has been shipped. Once received I'll post about how it looks and critical areas such as steerer, bottom bracket and derailleur hanger.
I didn't think much about warranty as not sure on how much anything from Ali express would be honoured.
I'll be able to compare this against my current model Orbea Orca aero di2, and my older BH G6 and Orbea Orca both rim brake.
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Looking at a similar design frame myself, how does the quite slack headtube angle make it feel? This is my only reservation about the geometry of this bike, so it'd be nice to hear what you have to say about it given you have first hand experience.
Well , I have only done about 300km with it until now so I don't have much experience with it. The steering is different than the TFSA frame, feels a little less direct and responsive BUT:
- It only has a 38cm handlebar vs the 40cm I had before... And I have the hoods angled inward.
- I have only recently started riding outdoor since I crashed and broke my collarbone 6 weeks ago, so I am more cautious.
So take my experience with a grain of salt...
The slack headtube does not feel like much of problem. But had I known before I ordered (I did not pay attention to this) I probably would have gotten another frame. But it seems the top frames of Colnago also have similar headtube angles, so I guess it is not that big of a deal...
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I've ordered one of these framesets to build up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed as my second road disc brake bike. Currently says has been shipped. Once received I'll post about how it looks and critical areas such as steerer, bottom bracket and derailleur hanger.
I didn't think much about warranty as not sure on how much anything from Ali express would be honoured.
I'll be able to compare this against my current model Orbea Orca aero di2, and my older BH G6 and Orbea Orca both rim brake.
When did you buy it? I'm still waiting since 21st august and is full black, so painting should be the reason...
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Great thread, and great reading about the experiences done with the brand. Being a dane I was quite intrigued of the brand, and I'm quite close to pulling the trigger.
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Great thread, and great reading about the experiences done with the brand. Being a dane I was quite intrigued of the brand, and I'm quite close to pulling the trigger.
Welcome :)
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When did you buy it? I'm still waiting since 21st august and is full black, so painting should be the reason...
Ordered on 27 August, according to Ali express not due to be delivered until October 7. Will see how we go.
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I just found a new Ali store selling Hygge frames: "Hygge Flagship Store"
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That's the one I ordered mine from. I spoke to them about it and they said they are the same company.
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That's the one I ordered mine from. I spoke to them about it and they said they are the same company.
Yeah, that happens a lot it seems... I wonder why...
When the OG-Evkin store had been lying and deceiving (to) me about the warranty frame I emailed the official website for help as they had a completely different email-adress. But since they never got back to me (and I think they blocked me) I presume it is just the same store...
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All in all which one do you prefer, the TFSA or Hygge? The TFSA I had bookmarked is now $850. I hope they "correct" the price.
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All in all which one do you prefer, the TFSA or Hygge? The TFSA I had bookmarked is now $850. I hope they "correct" the price.
If I would have too choose now, knowing what I know now, I would probably go for the Delihea Tank Machine (=TFSA SL7 clone frame).
Because of the following reasons:
- The image I had of Hygge has taken somewhat of a hit since ordering:
- They stole my pictures and put them on their IG page along with a couple of other Hygge related IG accounts. The main accounts removed them, but other account were rude, blocked me and are probably still using my pictures.
- Opening multiple Aliexpress stores does not exactly scream "trustworthy" to me...
- They profile them as the producer of the frame. I doubt this now...
- The research of some fellow forum members has shown that behind the professional facade is some amateurish background
- The frame is not really ideal for me because of the following:
- The slack headtube
- The chainstays are a little wide for me
- It's a harsh ride
- Suggested sizes of Hygge are extremely different from those of Winow Sports for the same frame. This leaves me wondering if I should have gone with a smaller size
- No 0-setback seatpost
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Hygee, along with Tiny Dinosaur's experience, is a great example of why this forum is important.
Phase #1 - The forum organically generates excitement for a particular brand/frame/wheel.
Phase #2 - The company realizes there is hype around their products so they start increasing marketing.
Phase #3 - Customers start receiving their orders and offering feedback.
Phase #4 - This is usually the point that can make or break customer excitement and future orders.
Don't ever feel afraid to share your bad or even horror stories. The only way to hold companies accountable is by pubic feedback. But ONLY after you've made an attempt to resolve it privately with the company.
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- The image I had of Hygge has taken somewhat of a hit since ordering:
- They stole my pictures and put them on their IG page along with a couple of other Hygge related IG accounts. The main accounts removed them, but other account were rude, blocked me and are probably still using my pictures.
I must admit that the way they treated you after stealing your pictures is enough reason for me to not consider them in the future.
There a a lot of other nice frames out there. And if one would like to buy this exact frame, it probably would be better to buy directly from Winow.
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I must admit that the way they treated you after stealing your pictures is enough reason for me to not consider them in the future.
There a a lot of other nice frames out there. And if one would like to buy this exact frame, it probably would be better to buy directly from Winow.
Thanks man :)
But, to be honest, it is a nice frame and has a nice finish. So if it fits you, it might be a good choice. :)
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- Suggested sizes of Hygge are extremely different from those of Winow Sports for the same frame. This leaves me wondering if I should have gone with a smaller size
Regarding suggested sizes - I think Winow recommendations are off. I have FM368 frame on the way in size M and Winow recommends that frame for 180-188cm tall riders. Funny thing is that the frame is more or less same geometry as Tarmac SL7 and Spesh is recommends size 56 (aka L) for 178cm rider (their recommendations are known to be larger size than usual). So for the frame of same geometry one manufacturer offers size L while the other recommends size S
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Regarding suggested sizes - I think Winow recommendations are off. I have FM368 frame on the way in size M and Winow recommends that frame for 180-188cm tall riders. Funny thing is that the frame is more or less same geometry as Tarmac SL7 and Spesh is recommends size 56 (aka L) for 178cm rider (their recommendations are known to be larger size than usual).
You're probably right. I always think my frames are too big for me, even though I have been carefully checking geometry and recommendations.
When ordering the SL6 clone I also checked the Specialized recommended size, and it is indeed 1 size more than I bought in the end. I got the 52 for my 172cm and the Specialized website recommended at least the 54. That would have been way too big for me...
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First of all, thank you for all the exchanges that I have read on this forum since months. I have learned a lot and it made me take the step of building my own bike.
For information, the first bike I built was the Ican A22. This allowed me to get my hands on this construction. I will always remember the hours spent routing cables ;D.
I wanted to change the frame and I read the first exchanges of this post. So, I set my sights on the Hygge Model S. I'll post updates on my build (Shimano 105 Di2) progress through to completion and give my thoughts on this bike after riding it.
The first messages of this post were really positive but the last messages have nuanced all your enthusiasm. I hope to receive my frame (and the wheels ordered from Hygge as well) within two weeks.
The only thing I can say now is that the seller is very responsive and has always answered my questions, which inspires seriousness despite the doubts expressed in other messages and compared to Winow. I will be sure to keep you informed when I will receive the frame and wheels.
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First of all, thank you for all the exchanges that I have read on this forum since months. I have learned a lot and it made me take the step of building my own bike.
For information, the first bike I built was the Ican A22. This allowed me to get my hands on this construction. I will always remember the hours spent routing cables ;D.
I wanted to change the frame and I read the first exchanges of this post. So, I set my sights on the Hygge Model S. I'll post updates on my build (Shimano 105 Di2) progress through to completion and give my thoughts on this bike after riding it.
The first messages of this post were really positive but the last messages have nuanced all your enthusiasm. I hope to receive my frame (and the wheels ordered from Hygge as well) within two weeks.
The only thing I can say now is that the seller is very responsive and has always answered my questions, which inspires seriousness despite the doubts expressed in other messages and compared to Winow. I will be sure to keep you informed when I will receive the frame and wheels.
Just watermark your photos of your bike build before posting them online so they don't get used without your permission! ;D
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
If you wait for the next AliEx sale, these wheels were discounted:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804581390724.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804581390724.html)
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They were the ones I was looking at but missed them on sale price last week. I don't really want to pay that price plus Aussie tax though.
On other news I received my frameset today so a month earlier than originally scheduled via Ali express and 11 days after ordering to Australia. Box was quite damaged but after unboxing and inspection all seems okay. So that's shipping companies roughness and not on Hygge as the frame was well wrapped and protected.
Ok initial inspection:
- both brake mounts seem to have been faced
- there is some play, very minimal, in both upper and lower headset bearings, however this should pull tight once plug is installed (I hope)
- finish looks good, one minor blemish on inside of chainstay on drive side where there looks to be a small area filled but other than that it's black on black carbon so has the raw carbon look
- steerer tube looks to be solid, no evidence of any fill used anywhere
- haven't tried bottom bracket yet.
I'll be a few weeks still before building up as I'm in a sling for another 4 weeks following shoulder surgery but will provide updates.
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It's interesting about them using photos without permission. I would more than happily allow them to use any photos I may post as long as they ask. If it is a good product I'd also happily recommend to others given some items are pretty hit and miss (particularly I have found with cycling clothing).
Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
Same for me. If the frame is good, I will be proud if they use my photos.
If you can wait few weeks, I will make a review of their wheels too.
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They were the ones I was looking at but missed them on sale price last week. I don't really want to pay that price plus Aussie tax though.
On other news I received my frameset today so a month earlier than originally scheduled via Ali express and 11 days after ordering to Australia. Box was quite damaged but after unboxing and inspection all seems okay. So that's shipping companies roughness and not on Hygge as the frame was well wrapped and protected.
Ok initial inspection:
- both brake mounts seem to have been faced
- there is some play, very minimal, in both upper and lower headset bearings, however this should pull tight once plug is installed (I hope)
- finish looks good, one minor blemish on inside of chainstay on drive side where there looks to be a small area filled but other than that it's black on black carbon so has the raw carbon look
- steerer tube looks to be solid, no evidence of any fill used anywhere
- haven't tried bottom bracket yet.
I'll be a few weeks still before building up as I'm in a sling for another 4 weeks following shoulder surgery but will provide updates.
Do you have some pictures to share please ?
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A few I have taken of brake mount area and frame.
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Can anyone recommend any cheap wheels? I would go with the Hygge wheels but am just not sure on the quality for that price point?
I'd go with Elite or Superteam, seems to be the cheapest ones on Aliexpress at least. I have some Superteams going strong for 2 wheels, minor problems with weather sealing but all good with periodic maintenance
Aliexpress just finished a sale, end of august, so it's common that the prices rise a little... maybe in 2-3 weeks (tops) the prices drop a bit, you can message the sellers and ask if there are sales coming or any coupons available, there are some that are willing to negotiate some deals
be aware that in 2 months it's 11.11 which is the biggest sale, so it's also common that the stores hold discounts a bit on the previous months.. if you're able to wait until then, it's almost certain you'll get a better deal
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For those who already have the frame, could you recommend a Di2 battery holder for the specialized shape of the seat post ? Or does anyone have the exact dimensions of the seat post please ?
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Hello! My first post here.
I wanted to leave a review of the Hygge Model S frame and the 2023 Carbon wheels but before I do that I want to frame my experiance with riding and building bikes. I only got into cycling in may this year, I bought an alloy gravel bike but discovered I love road riding pretty quickly and decided I needed a carbon road bike ;D As I am so new to the sport I didn't want to go and spend loads of money on something I potentially would get bored with (not going to happen) and as an engineer I love building things so I decided to buy a load of stuff off of Aliexpress and get to work. I settled on the Hygee Model S for no reason other than I liked the look of it. I couldn't find any details/reviews so after a while I decided to take the plunge and buy it.
It took about 4/5 weeks to get to the UK, arrived well packaged and everything present. I haven't built a bike before but the process was pretty easy, I think the integrated bars are nicely done, honestly didn't take me very long at all (I guess electronic shifting makes it easier. I did notice that one of the bottle cage captive nuts was drilled not centrally (image included) I took this back to Hygge and they didn't have much to say other than acknowledging its wonky and it wouldn't be an issue and to be fair it isn't. I had forgotten about it until just now. Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
Anyways I am now 120km into this bike and so far so good. I'm 108KG so at the upper end of the weight limit but no problems yet, the carbon wheels are great (I had to scrape off some of the lettering as I thought it was hideous) and the whole thing is seriously light, unfortunately I have no scales though. One issue I do have is the chain stays are super wide, fortunately I use 20mm pedal extensions but it would be tight without them. One thing the pictures never show is the frame has this gorgeous speckled flip paint that switches between purple and green and I've already had a lot of comments about it
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Hello! My first post here.
I wanted to leave a review of the Hygge Model S frame and the 2023 Carbon wheels but before I do that I want to frame my experiance with riding and building bikes. I only got into cycling in may this year, I bought an alloy gravel bike but discovered I love road riding pretty quickly and decided I needed a carbon road bike ;D As I am so new to the sport I didn't want to go and spend loads of money on something I potentially would get bored with (not going to happen) and as an engineer I love building things so I decided to buy a load of stuff off of Aliexpress and get to work. I settled on the Hygee Model S for no reason other than I liked the look of it. I couldn't find any details/reviews so after a while I decided to take the plunge and buy it.
It took about 4/5 weeks to get to the UK, arrived well packaged and everything present. I haven't built a bike before but the process was pretty easy, I think the integrated bars are nicely done, honestly didn't take me very long at all (I guess electronic shifting makes it easier. I did notice that one of the bottle cage captive nuts was drilled not centrally (image included) I took this back to Hygge and they didn't have much to say other than acknowledging its wonky and it wouldn't be an issue and to be fair it isn't. I had forgotten about it until just now. Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
Anyways I am now 120km into this bike and so far so good. I'm 108KG so at the upper end of the weight limit but no problems yet, the carbon wheels are great (I had to scrape off some of the lettering as I thought it was hideous) and the whole thing is seriously light, unfortunately I have no scales though. One issue I do have is the chain stays are super wide, fortunately I use 20mm pedal extensions but it would be tight without them. One thing the pictures never show is the frame has this gorgeous speckled flip paint that switches between purple and green and I've already had a lot of comments about it
Are tires 28" or 26 ? Can you tell me which Di2 battery holder do you use in the seat post ?
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Are tires 28" or 26 ? Can you tell me which Di2 battery holder do you use in the seat post ?
Hi there
The tyres are 30mm (IIRC) Pirelli P zero race. Di2 battery holder is a piece of the foam the frame came wrapped in wrapped around the battery secured with some tape and then stuffed in the seat post
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Hi there
The tyres are 30mm (IIRC) Pirelli P zero race. Di2 battery holder is a piece of the foam wrapped around the battery secured with some tape and then stuffed in the seat post
Thank you. Do you have an issue with a slipping seat post like someone else ? Did you install a seat post clamp cover ? The color is nice. Great build.
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Ah indeed I have had seatpost issues, I wanted to put that in the original post but forgot!
So yeah, I had the seatpost disappear into the frame twice very early on. How I fixed it is I sanded all sides of the clamp and applied grip paste but I think the thing that got this sorted was I applied loctite to the clamping bolt and then tightened it to 10Nm. I’ve had over 100 trouble free Km since then. I think the issue is the bolt just loosens up, with the loctite I haven’t seen the problem again. I fed this back to Hygge and they actually have a new clamp design (picture attached), I'm not convinced that it will fix the issue as the new clamp adds a new grip to the side that grips the seat post, I’m sure it will help some but I think the loctite is the one. I have told them I recommend having a captive nyloc nut on the underside, this would alleviate the issue.
And yeah, it’s a lovely bike - I’m really happy with it so far and looking forward to spending more time with it.
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Originally I set this up with an L-TWOO ERX groupset but that has turned out to be total trash (1 mile ridden on that POS groupset but that's another story) and I've had a nightmare getting any support on it. Eventually, in desperation to ride this thing I bought a Di2 105 12spd groupset and its been great. I really should have done that from the start.
That colors looks nice! Hope you have a good time riding it. I would like to hear what exactly happened with the L-T groupset. I have made up my mind to stay away from these groupsets (even fully mechanical ones) considering you can get Shimano stuff at prices not very far from L-T's.
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
I asked the seller for the torque for the seatpost since it keeps slipping, even with my 64kg. Torque spec is 5-6Nm according to them. Since I did already torque to 6Nm and added thread locker this does not seem to be enough...
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Is the maximum torque written on all screws (seat post, stem, etc.) ?
I will put some blue thread lock on the bolt and carbon paste on the seat post to see if I will have the same problem.
It is not written anywhere but like TidyDinosaur I asked them and they said 7Nm should be plenty, it was not. I suggest trying 10 like me which is working. Maybe also ask them for their new clamp?
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I asked the seller for the torque for the seatpost since it keeps slipping, even with my 64kg. Torque spec is 5-6Nm according to them. Since I did already torque to 6Nm and added thread locker this does not seem to be enough...
Is the Hygge seat post clamp similar to the TFSA setup? I haven't had any seat post slippage since using the front/back tape seatpost method and using a titanium screw. Also I put a wrap of electrical tape at the seat post base to keep it from sliding down. No Loctite or over torquing necessary.
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Is the Hygge seat post clamp similar to the TFSA setup? I haven't had any seat post slippage since using the front/back tape seatpost method and using a titanium screw. Also I put a wrap of electrical tape at the seat post base to keep it from sliding down. No Loctite or over torquing necessary.
It's indeed the same priciple. With the tfsa I was able to solve it with thread locker and cloth tape to the back of the seatpost and a lot of carbon paste.
Since using the thread locker on the Hygge frame the seatpost has only dropped a few mm. I am going to keep an eye on it and if it slips more I am going to try the cloth tape truck although the fit of the seatpost seems more snug so I don't know there is space between seatpost and frame for the tape.
If it comes to this I will keep you updated.
It's a shame most frames now come with these special seatposts and clamp. But looking at all the taped up seatposts of the expensive bikes I see on group rides it is not a cheap frame problem.
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Did any of you have issues fitting the front brake mount to the fork (the small plate the brake then mounts to for 160mm calipers). Mine will hit the fork when screwing down before it screws tight so it looks like I am going to grind away and round off the top part of the brake mount?
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This is what I mean.
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Do you have full picture of the adapter itself? Assuming you are going with 160mm rotors (and flat mount calipers), that doesn't look like Shimano's or any other common flat adapter, may be try with a different adapter before you dremel some part of it?
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It's LTwoo hydraulic 160mm adaptor.
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It's LTwoo hydraulic 160mm adaptor.
Yeah, the adapter seems to be the problem then... No problem with the standard adapters...
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Did you use Ultegra 160mm for the front Tidy?
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
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Did you use Ultegra 160mm for the front Tidy?
Yes
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
I would be more interested in seeing a review of a Light carbon frame you as we expect the frame to be of similar quality as Yishun.
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Should I see if Hygge will send me out a frameset, or nah? ;D
I'd like to see your view compared to your other bikes
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you as we expect the frame to be of similar quality as Yishun.
This is the main reason why I would choose Hygge over LightCarbon if I were to give in and review another cheap frame. I have confidence in believing LC's quality is identical to Yishun.
What makes companies like VeloBuild, Rinasclta, and ICAN attractive to new customers in the cheap Chinese world, is their ability provide a somewhat brand-like shopping experience while offering custom paint with logos. My VeloBuild videos are among my most watched videos for this reason.
Marketing ethics aside, I really like what Hygge is doing as a brand. Excellent paint/decal options and it appears to be decent quality. The price point is good too.
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This is the main reason why I would choose Hygge over LightCarbon if I were to give in and review another cheap frame. I have confidence in believing LC's quality is identical to Yishun.
What makes companies like VeloBuild, Rinasclta, and ICAN attractive to new customers in the cheap Chinese world, is their ability provide a somewhat brand-like shopping experience while offering custom paint with logos. My VeloBuild videos are among my most watched videos for this reason.
Marketing ethics aside, I really like what Hygge is doing as a brand. Excellent paint/decal options and it appears to be decent quality. The price point is good too.
If I understand correctly, Hygge offers excellent paint and decals. But Lightcarbon as well. Check the Gravel bike from Hambini or this LCR0X-D in frozen blue with their logo in silver.
Here are all the colors Lightcarbon offers: https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
and you can combine multiple colors as well.
I think you would even be happier knowing you can customize the paint on your rims with ProX Carbon [their wheels branch].
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Ah indeed I have had seatpost issues, I wanted to put that in the original post but forgot!
So yeah, I had the seatpost disappear into the frame twice very early on. How I fixed it is I sanded all sides of the clamp and applied grip paste but I think the thing that got this sorted was I applied loctite to the clamping bolt and then tightened it to 10Nm. I’ve had over 100 trouble free Km since then. I think the issue is the bolt just loosens up, with the loctite I haven’t seen the problem again. I fed this back to Hygge and they actually have a new clamp design (picture attached), I'm not convinced that it will fix the issue as the new clamp adds a new grip to the side that grips the seat post, I’m sure it will help some but I think the loctite is the one. I have told them I recommend having a captive nyloc nut on the underside, this would alleviate the issue.
And yeah, it’s a lovely bike - I’m really happy with it so far and looking forward to spending more time with it.
Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
Wow, that's scary... I had to do mine @ 6nM to get it to stop sagging... 5nM was not enough.
I'm only 64kg so I guess there is less risk of cracking...
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
I just looked at the review on YT and there is no comment like what you said... Could it already be removed?
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I just looked at the review on YT and there is no comment like what you said... Could it already be removed?
It was commented under this post:
https://www.youtube.com/post/Ugkxr7VrOqzmj1AUAf-x3SFbZXlMgZYMVGU_
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It was commented under this post:
https://www.youtube.com/post/Ugkxr7VrOqzmj1AUAf-x3SFbZXlMgZYMVGU_
OK, thanks. He has a lot of video's about the Hygge frame already :) Did not see that one.
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Could anyone measure the chainstay height at the flat mount mounting point?
I would like to make sure that I get the right screw length for the rear caliper.
Thanks a lot!
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Could anyone measure the chainstay height at the flat mount mounting point?
I would like to make sure that I get the right screw length for the rear caliper.
Thanks a lot!
20mm if I measured correctly. The standard Ultegra caliper bolt with the special tip for the circlips was too long. I used a shorter bolt I had lying around without the circlips
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Thank you! Okay, my default Shimano screws are for 25mm I think, so that matches your observation.
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Thank you! Okay, my default Shimano screws are for 25mm I think, so that matches your observation.
Correct. it is 20mm.
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I just received the frame. I will update regularly and debrief when it is assembled.
The package is well packaged and the setting and equipment are great.
For now, everything is perfect. I also ordered the wheels which were in the same package as the frame.
I am attaching some photos and the weight of the equipment in size M.
Communication with Hygge is perfect. They are very responsive and attentive.
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I just received the frame. I will update regularly and debrief when it is assembled.
The package is well packaged and the setting and equipment are great.
For now, everything is perfect. I also ordered the wheels which were in the same package as the frame.
I am attaching some photos and the weight of the equipment in size M.
Communication with Hygge is perfect. They are very responsive and attentive.
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I'm really looking forward to other peoples experiences... I find the bike to be fairly instable especially at speeds above 35km/h... To the point of getting scary when descending...
Wondering if it maybe is the 380mm handlebar with the short 80mm stem...
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Doesn't sound good.
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Damn this bike sounds like absolute garbo
Nah, could be user error... That's why I'm looking forward to other reviews...
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
Thanks for the feedback. I also have the shifters tilted inward quite a bit, so it could indeed be a combination of factors. I have adjusted te shifters now to be more straight. Let's see if that helps.
I rarely put my hands in the drops as I am not really comfortable with that. I just can't seem to reach the brake levers (i did already adjust them to be closer to the handlebars) good enough to give me confidence in braking when in the drops. Maybe I'll have to practice more.
I like the aero position and I do feel I am faster with it. But the previous bike ( I only rode it a month) had 40cm handlebars so not a big change and before that I rode my gravel bike on the road so no comparing there ;D
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Based on my experience it will be the 380 bar. I put a 380 wide bar on my BH G6 and found the same thing. Really twitchy and unstable when on the hoods, particularly descending. But when in drops was a lot more stable, and narrower so had the aero benefits for that.
I got a 380 for my Hygge build but haven't yet built it up as I'm stuck in a sling from shoulder surgery for another 2 weeks yet. Good thing about hygge bars is it's is 380 at the top and 400 in the drops.
Do you feel more aero with a narrower profile? Noticed any speed difference on solo rides?
I ride a 360 bar and feel perfectly fine on 60kmh descents, though. Doubt it's the bars.
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I'm really looking forward to other peoples experiences... I find the bike to be fairly instable especially at speeds above 35km/h... To the point of getting scary when descending...
Wondering if it maybe is the 380mm handlebar with the short 80mm stem...
I'd say it's more the super short 80mm stem rather than the handlebars themselves.
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I'd say it's more the super short 80mm stem rather than the handlebars themselves.
On the TFSA frame I also had a 80mm stem without the instability. The handlebars were 40cm wide though...
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For me I changed to 380 bars from 400 and noticed it was a lot more unstable when I made that change. Just my experience, may not be the same for others
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For me I changed to 380 bars from 400 and noticed it was a lot more unstable when I made that change. Just my experience, may not be the same for others
Interesting to know. You kept the same stem length?
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Real tyre clearance is 30 or 32?
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Real tyre clearance is 30 or 32?
30 front and 32 back i would say.
My 28mm tires measure 30 and I would not go bigger in the front.
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Interesting to know. You kept the same stem length?
Yes went to 110mm a few years ago. Didn't notice any difference when I went from 100 to 110mm.
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Did you see the last price increase at Hygge >:(
are they crazy?
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Did you see the last price increase at Hygge >:(
are they crazy?
Wow, that's a 30% increase. Not so great value anymore...
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Sometimes they are increasing the price and getting ready for a "sale". I also saw the Magene Ultra Wheelset's price at $2000 but then it came back to $1200 or something.
I always deal with that kind of practice because we have a local Aliexpress on our country which is called Lazada (which is a subsidiary of Alibaba)
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Sometimes they are increasing the price and getting ready for a "sale". I also saw the Magene Ultra Wheelset's price at $2000 but then it came back to $1200 or something.
probably, common practice all over Aliexpress. If you keep track, most items are always on some kind of discount, to give the impression that it's a special price and you either buy fast or the price will increase. Even though the higher price is on for like 10 days a year, and the usual price is at -30% tag.
So once in a while (normally right before some website sale) the price increases, for 1 or 2 days, and then comes right back.
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probably, common practice all over Aliexpress. If you keep track, most items are always on some kind of discount, to give the impression that it's a special price and you either buy fast or the price will increase. Even though the higher price is on for like 10 days a year, and the usual price is at -30% tag.
So once in a while (normally right before some website sale) the price increases, for 1 or 2 days, and then comes right back.
Well, it looks like they increased the prices of all their frames to rather absurd levels, so I guess it will indeed be the full price/discount game they are playing...
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Well, it looks like they increased the prices of all their frames to rather absurd levels, so I guess it will indeed be the full price/discount game they are playing...
It's the same for their wheels. They were about $630 Australian and are now over $1,000. Then shipping and local tax on top makes them really expensive.
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I see the Winowsports frames (same frames, different paint) also have had this price increase...
And the TFSA SL7 clone has also gotten really expensive...
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1st of october is China's National day, holidays lasts this whole week. Many sellers raise the prices to not bother them buying their products ;D
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That's right. They're back with regular prices already. In the meantime my frame came today. I'm posting some pictures from the factory as I didn't make any by my own yet.
https://pasteboard.co/6ETww8umisyI.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/CpPn8rxKxqmU.jpg
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This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?
Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
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Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
I did another 105km ride on Sunday. I put my shifters a little more upright instead of the heavily inward tilted setup I had. It looks like this had improved the stability quite a bit. So I guess the 38cm handlebar paired with the 80mm stem and tilted shifters is not such a great combo with this frame...
I have had a problem with play on the rear derailleur hanger (with creaking as a result) but I think I managed to solve it. The outer part of the hanger has a threaded cylindrical part where the axle screws into. This cylinder fits trough the hole in the frame. I think this cylinder protrudes too far on the inside of the frame and it prevents the axle of the wheel to compress the derailleur hanger. It's hard to explain, but it looks like the axle of the wheel has to press the inner part of the derailleur hanger against the frame (so it is sandwiched between hub axle and frame) and in the original setup the axle of the wheel pressed against the cylindrical part of the outer part of the derailleur hanger so it did not press against the derailleur hanger.
I took the derailleur hanger apart and used some sanding paper to sand down the cylindrical part and now everything seems snug.
Chances are there will not be much of a sale on 11/11 but you could find a nice coupon for 40 USD or so... So if you are not in a hurry it might be interesting to wait...
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Probably there will be at least 100$ coupons for these range of prices on the 11.11 sales.
Today, after 40 days, finally arrived my frameset (ordered without handlebar). No logo carbon black size L frame weighs 1023g. Great weight. Wheelset is also from AliExpress: Elitewheels Edge 45mm depth.
I'll build the bicycle in the next weeks, I still have to buy crankset, cassette, chain, handlebar tape and tyres. With SRAM Force AXS groupset (Red crankset and cassette) I hope to be in the sub 7.5kg category.
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This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?
Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).
Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11
Yes, this is custom paint job. I paid extra, but not much, like 30 dollars. I just received it yesterday and I will be completing all the gear through the winter time. To be ready for spring time. Frame weights 1038 grams in size large. Fork is 368 grams.
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Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.
- Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
- Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
- There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads.
- Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.
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Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.
- Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
- Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
- There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads.
- Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.
Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.
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Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.
I wish you a speedy recovery, but that seems to have been quite a serious surgery you got...
Yesterday I removed, cleaned and re-installed the left BB cup. It threaded in very easy, so I guess the threads in the frame are maybe a bit too loose. I have added the thread locker (very mild, the same I used to use on my spoke nipples when building wheels) so we'll see how it goes when I take the next ride...
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@lotnik any additional pictures of the frame you have received?
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Here is a complete review of the bike: Size M (I am 178 cm tall)
- Handlebar 380x90
- Shimano Di2 groupset
-Wheels : Hygge Shun 40mm
- Saddle: Hygge too
The assembly went perfectly. I didn't encounter any problems.
First ride : I did a 105 km ride. My previous bike was an ICAN A22 and I definitely prefer the Hygge. The geometry of the bike suits me perfectly and I find it much more comfortable and stiff at the same time. Furthermore, the color of the frame is magnificent. The bike controls very well on descents and responds very well on climbs and restarts and is very fast.
I had no problem with the saddle slipping (I had used carbon paste) with a tightening of 5.5 N.m. My saddle is also Hygge and I find it perfect for me too.
In summary, I absolutely do not regret having sold my ICAN A22 for Hygge. I find it better in every way and the contact with the manufacturer is exceptional. They answered all my questions. In short, I highly recommend it.
I will post pictures in another post.
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Just received my frames this week and wanted to share my thoughts with you all. Got pretty much what I expected for the price, considering they came from China. No major design flaws that can't be addressed. Let's dive into the details!
Positive:
- The paintwork is really beautiful
- The frames are super light (1063g in size 55/L)
Negative:
- The seatpost clamp is a pain. The hole of the middle wedge is too small and the screw prevents the wedge from moving sufficiently towards the seatpost. No matter how much torque you tighten it with, the force only works against the edge of the hole and not against the seatpost. (I'll do a separate post about that)
- The handlebar is just one of the cheap generic ones from aliexpress. It feels extremely flexy, I'm not sure I trust this one.
You can often find it branded as Kocevlo, but there are many other brandings too:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006028345937.html
Strangely, their website shows a completely different cockpit and headset assembly:
https://hygge-bikes.com/products/high-performance-integrated-road-handlebar
- The headset sucks and both of my frames were missing the top plastic cone. The headset has a slight amount of play. This is by design as there is no such thing as a compression ring/cone that could hold the upper bearing inner ring and steerer tube tightly together (different post).
- The frame and fork are very supple. I think they went to the limit, is this really still safe to ride? (I did a lateral stiffness test on the fork, it bends a lot -> different post).
- Seat tube angle: 73 degrees is too small (too much backset) in size L. Combined with the huge setback of the post and a big saddle pull (13cm mark, close to the maximum), it's really a pain. I am in the most forward position and still 5mm behind my optimal position (I really hope that one day a 0 setback post for the generic FM236 frame will be released).
- The front thru axle threads are only glued, other suppliers now show the fork with a replaceable insert
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005982170845.html
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html
Neutral:
- Headtube angle is quite slack and I was afraid of the bike being really sluggish, but in the end I found it sufficiently agile.
- The chainstays are not wider than on other (disc-)bikes I've ridden. So no problem with heel clearance for me, although my heels are close due to my slight V-shape foot position.
The build was quite easy, luckily on 12s Di2 I don't have any wires going to the STIs.
7.7kg (55/L) including pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount, powermeter (heavy 105 11/34 cassette, not the lightest tires, ..) that's really good for an aero bike!!
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Pictures.
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Seatpost clamp:
I installed it with a lot of carbon paste at 6Nm. The seatpost slowly dropped by 5mm during a 1h ride. On the front of the seatpost you can see the traces that the rails groomed in the carbon, when sliding. What a foolish idea to put the rails in pull direction.
Upon disassembling and inspecting the clamp, I discovered that the central part (the wedge that exerts pressure on the seatpost) became blocked prematurely. Surprisingly, the two outer parts still had approximately 1.5mm of clearance. The slot appears to be too small and hinders the wedge from moving further outward. You can clearly see that the screw began to work its way through the wedge's pointed side. Unfortunately, I didn't capture this in a photo.
My solution: I completely cut out the slot's brace. As a result, the wedge is no longer fixed in place when the seatpost is removed and could potentially fall into the frame. In return now the outer parts can be tightened to make contact, and the wedge is free to move outward, resulting in an approximate 0.5mm gain.
I'll continue testing this setup during my next rides to see how it performs.
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Headset assembly:
I received the headset unit (pic headset_assembly_label.png) with cone A, but unfortunately, part B is missing. The problem is that cone A is not flexible. While the outer conical surface (blue) fits snugly into the inner bearing ring, the inner surface (green) lacks a positively interlocking connection with the steerer tube. An additional clamping ring is missing here, which could possibly press A and steerer tube together. Or cone A should be designed to be flexible to clamp itself onto the steerer tube due to its conical shape and the force from above.
I am not sure how cone B is designed, but if it is flexible, this might be the solution. A flexible cone is 'advertised' on hygge-bikes.com.
Another example of a flexible topcap:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
It's frustrating that such small details were messed up. Play in the headset (on a new bike) sucks! Luckily this should be easily fixable with another top-cap/cone. Top bearing and steerer are standard, but will the interfacing to the spacer dovetails (or if spacer are swapped too, to the stem) then fit?
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
That's really interesting. My 2013 Orbea Orca has about 30mm of flex in the same way you have demonstrated. I have done over 30,000km on this with no problem whatsoever. I'm not sure what the concern is when any flex is limited as there is a wheel axle limiting any movement.
My real concern with any cheaper frame is the steerer tube not braking or cracking.
What is the weight difference between the two forks you compared?
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- The handlebar is just one of the cheap generic ones from aliexpress. It feels extremely flexy, I'm not sure I trust this one.
You can often find it branded as Kocevlo, but there are many other brandings too:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006028345937.html
Strangely, their website shows a completely different cockpit and headset assembly:
https://hygge-bikes.com/products/high-performance-integrated-road-handlebar
I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
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Headset assembly:
I received the headset unit (pic headset_assembly_label.png) with cone A, but unfortunately, part B is missing. The problem is that cone A is not flexible. While the outer conical surface (blue) fits snugly into the inner bearing ring, the inner surface (green) lacks a positively interlocking connection with the steerer tube. An additional clamping ring is missing here, which could possibly press A and steerer tube together. Or cone A should be designed to be flexible to clamp itself onto the steerer tube due to its conical shape and the force from above.
I am not sure how cone B is designed, but if it is flexible, this might be the solution. A flexible cone is 'advertised' on hygge-bikes.com.
Another example of a flexible topcap:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
It's frustrating that such small details were messed up. Play in the headset (on a new bike) sucks! Luckily this should be easily fixable with another top-cap/cone. Top bearing and steerer are standard, but will the interfacing to the spacer dovetails (or if spacer are swapped too, to the stem) then fit?
Here is my part. It is the hygge_bikes_com of your picture.
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
I have no problem with the handlebars. Plenty stiff for me... But I almost never do a sprint (I don't even think I ever did a decent sprint now I think about it). So maybe I'm not a good reference...
I think they look nice. I like the sharper edges on the handlebars compared to the ones that came with my TFSA frame (Black Inc. Barstem copy)
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
No, that are two different topics. There is play in the headset, I do not consider that as flex. The steerer is super stiff, the high spacer stack doesn't add a lot of flex (if any).
The handlebar is super flexy (I got the 380/120mm). You can already feel a slight flex on the brifters, but that's okay. In the drops I can bend it more than 1cm in any direction.
For sprinters this is not acceptable and I've never seen that on handlebars from reputable brands (neither alu nor carbon, they are all much stiffer).
A few years ago I had a Chinese carbon cockpit with a similar bend, it started creaking and I ended up breaking both handlebar sides right at the STI attachment point, during a load test.
The good news is that his cockpit isn't creaking yet, I'm not a sprinter, I'll keep using it (at least in the off-season).
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Here is my part. It is the hygge_bikes_com of your picture.
So you got the headset with the silver flexible top cone? The one with the smal (1mm) compression gap?
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So you got the headset with the silver flexible top cone? The one with the smal (1mm) compression gap?
Those components in red. I don't have the bottom part full closed likes on your second picture.
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Same set of headset parts here
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Same set of headset parts here
Looks to be the standard parts that it comes with. Mine were all the same as yours.
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It seems that the manufacturer has changed the steering kit, the hardware used to be more varied before.
Otherwise, I have no complaints, the frame looks amazing, I hope it will be the same in use.
The weight for size M with steel screws is 980 grams, the fork with the axle - 388, the seatpost - 202, the handlebar with stem (400/120) - 368.9 grams.
I'd like to specifically note the presence of carbon highlights under the matte varnish of the black version without decals. Usually, manufacturers hide imperfections in the frame's weave under black primer, but in this case, the primer seems transparent. This speaks highly of the manufacturer.
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I am debating between the velobuild vbr 177 and this Hygge model s. Any of you guys with the model s that also has experience with the vbr177?
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Finished assembling a bike on this frame. Wanted to share my thoughts with future buyers. This isn't some cheap Chinese wonder, you get what you pay for. Inside, there will be ugly blobs of glue, and there's an unsightly gap between the seat post hole and the frame. The di2 cable routing was intricate; I had to put in some effort to route the cable for the rear derailleur. Otherwise, everything's fine, done one indoor workout - it works quite nicely.
The matte black color is quite odd because of all these carbon reflections; perhaps I should have gone with a different finish.
Upd.
The 32mm tires fit, leaving a small mud clearance.
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I am debating between the velobuild vbr 177 and this Hygge model s. Any of you guys with the model s that also has experience with the vbr177?
As I see, Velobuild has updated the model 177 and now it supports tires up to 32mm, it also has a round seat post and a slightly higher stack. Additionally, the manufacturer indicates EPS molding on the website. Considering this, I would prefer Velobuild.
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Fork rigidity test:
For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel :D, in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)
I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)
Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.
You have hit on my main problem in buying these frames.
Some time ago I bought a Spanish brand of frame (CBK) I think manufactured in ICAN. After some time I improved my performance and noticed how in short and strong intervals it gave a flexing sensation.
I switched to Merida Scultura and buaf, new world, much more stiffness and I can't put fork and chainstays together with my hands.
Currently, I have a max power of 1300W, and I want to look for a frame with disc brakes and internal cabling, but at less than 700usd, I doubt the stiffness.
I like Elves, Hygge....
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You have hit on my main problem in buying these frames.
Some time ago I bought a Spanish brand of frame (CBK) I think manufactured in ICAN. After some time I improved my performance and noticed how in short and strong intervals it gave a flexing sensation.
I switched to Merida Scultura and buaf, new world, much more stiffness and I can't put fork and chainstays together with my hands.
Currently, I have a max power of 1300W, and I want to look for a frame with disc brakes and internal cabling, but at less than 700usd, I doubt the stiffness.
I like Elves, Hygge....
Check for the Speeder frames if you want something stiff I have their R48D and it's just as stiff or more then my allez sprint disc.
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
It's not anecdotal at all, you are quite right... I think like you... especially in brands like bxt, og ekvin, Seraph....
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This is probably anecdotal but...
The best quality affordable Chinese frames I've tested (stiffness, fit and finish, tolerances) have come frame companies/factories who do NOT offer up custom paint jobs and decals. Basically the OEM factories.
However, brands/agents who offer up all these crazy paint options and put a priority on aesthetics are probably hiding something in the QC department. Just spend 5 minutes the IG accounts from TanTan, Hygge, and even Elves.
I would rather a factory tell me they don't offer paint jobs because their focus is on the production and QC of their frames and components themselves.
Naked Carbon weave is the best finish anyways :D
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Naked Carbon weave is the best finish anyways :D
Totally agree, looks great, but any naked weave you see on Chinese frames is simply a cosmetic single layer and laid over the top of the finished frame, still hiding any imperfections on their frame. They're not manufactured with the same materials or process as Time where you can see the weave.
If you want to see manufacturing imperfections, the closest you'll get is an unpainted ud ready to paint, which will just look like an uglier version of a matte black painted finish.
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Have you had any further issues with the seat post? I saw you said you went to 10nn, however someone in a comment on the Henry Chung YouTube review commented they did theirs to 6.5nm and it cracked the frame. He hasn't said how it ended up with Hygge in terms of any replacement.
Sorry for my long absence and lack of reply on this. The answer is no issues whatsoever so far over 733km ridden, looks like with the thread locker and 10Nm torque on the bolt its held firm and today I am 105.8KG. The only thing I have done is fitted a 1mm spacer to the inside of each of the axles to allow more adjustment for the brake calibers as with the stock geometry I had brake disk rubbing, that's solved that for now but I think I will elongate the brake mounting holes in the future to allow the calibers to move over once I confirm it isn't the Z-Race disks that cause that.
I really am in love with this bike, but again I want to stress that I am completely new to cycling and this is my first road bike ever so that may skew my views. Today I added a power meter (Magene P505) so I think this bike is complete now and I aim to just get as much training in on it as possible over the next 12 months.
Here's my Strava link, in case anyone wanted to check my journey out. https://www.strava.com/athletes/11137711
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I've finally finished my build but yet to test as I'm still a few weeks away from getting back on the road from my shoulder surgery. Still need to source some wheels so I just used my zipps from my Orbea Orca aero to finish the set up.
In all was a pretty simple build, electric shifting so only disc brake cables to route (we'll see on how long they last). With the zipps, magene powermeter, pedals and everything else weight is 7.7kg.
Hopefully I will have the same feedback as others on here.
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
I'm curious, are your hydraulic hoses not internally routed into the bars? Also Hygge posted your photo on FB, I commented the same thing on the FB photo! ;D
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I'm curious, are your hydraulic hoses not internally routed into the bars? Also Hygge posted your photo on FB, I commented the same thing on the FB photo! ;D
This is an "extra" part sticking out. On that day, I went a bikefit procedure, and as a result, the specialist allowed me to remove some spacers from under the handlebar. Now, of course, there's handlebar tape installed, and the excess steerer tube has been cut off.
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First ride today. First impressions are positive.
The frame is stiff but with 28mm tyres it rides really well, much better than I anticipated coming from an Orbea Orca aero. I haven't had any seat post slippage and no other issues whatsoever but I only did 20km. My main concern is the crappy head tube spacers and the head tube remaining tight given they are only plastic so we will see how that goes after some decent mileage.
I'm built up with LTwoo electronic 12 speed. Shifting was good and braking performance seems good too.
Looking forward to seeing how it goes on longer rides.
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Hey folks, ordered my Model S in BOB last week. Want to build up with Ultegra R8100 and Elite Drive wheels. But it’s a long way to Germany for the frame ;) I want to order J&L Thru Axles and need the dimensions and pitch of the thread. The Hygge support chat was not very helpful. Maybe someone of you could give me all data printed on the axles or some detailed photos of these?!
Best wishes from Germany
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Why do you need these axles, weight? The standard frame set comes with a lightweight set of both axles, totaling 56 grams.
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Okay, that's already light. ;D I didn't know that. ZTTO or J&L axles are not significant lighter.
Others chinese frames that I ordered in the past came with very basic and heavy ones.
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As a replacement, it's worth looking for:
- New screws and nuts for the stem (stock ones are of a silly color, heavy, and soft).
- Make sure to replace the nut set in the seat post - they are super soft. Preferably, include the screws.
I can't specify the exact dimensions of these parts; I'm waiting for delivery, and if they fit 100%, I'll share the links.
The small hardware is the only thing that didn't satisfy me in the frame set :)
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Thanks for your replacement tips :)
This is what I ordered so far:
Where did you get the Eggbeaters for 40€? 8)
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Thanks for your replacement tips :)
This is what I ordered so far:
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This is only the price for the axles and caps - the pedals were my birthday present ;D 8)
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There is a Di2 Grommet for the SL7 seatpost - I ordered this and will try if it fits for the hygge seatpost.
Also I found SL7 seatposts with less offset on aliexpress - but I don't know if they will fit:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004458997659.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005633578007.html
(https://www.certini.co.uk/images/Specialized-MSC-MY19-Venge-Di2-Grommets-199900003-black.jpg)
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My build came out at 6.75 kg without handlebar tape. I've already ordered a seatpost clamp «upgrade» from Elita One , so we'll see what I can do to break the 6.8 kg limit.
Do you have link for the clamp upgrade? The one I found won't fit because are M5 x35 bolts and Hygge seatpost uses M6x40 bolts
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This one is with M6 Bolts, i ordered one but don't know if it will fit:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005284645155.html
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(https://i.imgur.com/EBRty5y.jpg)
I received the frameset, black with laser decals, size XS(46). The frame weight without all hardware is 963g, the fork without the axle is 353g, the seatpost without seat clamp 133g (clamp 67g), and the handlebar 328g (360*110mm).
Frame looks good, but has some small imperfections under the coating, and some small area of rough surface in headset, but besides that all feels nice and smooth. I think it's a good quality for this price (around 550 USD with shipping).
Now about the issues:
1) Antislip coating not applied at the last 5 cm of the seatpost, and if your seatpost exposed less than 18cm from frame - the seatpost clamp will not be in contact with antislip coating.
(https://i.imgur.com/aV8y2Re.jpg)
2) Seat clamp nuts are made from some soft aluminium, and i had experience with this type of thing, steel bolts just destroys thread in this type of aluminium, and i already ordered titanium version. Sizes are M6 10x14mm and M6 10x20mm.
3) One of the rivet nuts in handlebar installed at an angle, and head unit mount looks slightly to the right when bolts are tightened. I think i can fix it by erasing part of the mount with sandpaper, so bolt will have more space.
(https://i.imgur.com/eLaq88U.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1N5dhod.jpg)
4) The fork steerer tube not perfectly round, and has some deviation in wall thickness, around 0.3 mm, and expander plug fits very snug. But maybe it's just this plug.
(https://i.imgur.com/Kk3QXj9.jpg)
5) Some aluminium bolts has inconsistent quality. Steel bolts are ok.
If you are interested in more photos, here are links:
Frame photos https://imgur.com/a/mMdOfu0
Frame and parts weight https://imgur.com/a/qxBMj7H
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3) One of the rivet nuts in handlebar installed at an angle, and head unit mount looks slightly to the right when bolts are tightened. I think i can fix it by erasing part of the mount with sandpaper, so bolt will have more space.
Over the years I've developed a high tolerance for cheap Chinese frame quirks: Rough edges underneath the headset bearing cups, poorly faced caliper mounts, and even questionable paint overspray.
But poorly installed rivet nuts is not one of them. Especially for the handlebar computer mount. I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo. That one small infraction just reeks of poor quality and/or QC. I haven't been too thrilled with Hygee which is why I haven't inquired about a frameset yet.
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Over the years I've developed a high tolerance for cheap Chinese frame quirks: Rough edges underneath the headset bearing cups, poorly faced caliper mounts, and even questionable paint overspray.
But poorly installed rivet nuts is not one of them. Especially for the handlebar computer mount. I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo. That one small infraction just reeks of poor quality and/or QC. I haven't been too thrilled with Hygee which is why I haven't inquired about a frameset yet.
Yea, poorly faced caliper mounts, which requires special tool or bike mechanic (and money) to solve, is almost the same as slightly tilted computer mount, which requires some sandpaper to solve. As far as I can tell you are already have some tolerance to sandpaper, and poorly faced caliper mounts seems to me just as much evidence of poor quality control.
You've already faced with rubbing headset cover on your Yishun, which means that the manufacturer either has low tolerances or has not checked compatibility at all.
I'm not trying to defend hygge, but the need to use some sandpaper is normal for Chinese frames at that price. And I don't understand, why tilted rivet nut got you so angry.
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I had none of those issues with my frame. The mount has tolerance in it to allow it to be adjusted slightly each way. No issues at all with brakes as both had been surfaced.
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I had none of those issues with my frame. The mount has tolerance in it to allow it to be adjusted slightly each way. No issues at all with brakes as both had been surfaced.
Cutout in my mount is so narrow, that it takes some effort to insert the bolts. But on the ends of the cutout they slips without effort. Perhaps the cut just isn't perfectly straight.
I set the mount to full extension and you can judge for yourself how serious this problem is.
(https://i.imgur.com/ykIgYlK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eVpf9fW.jpg)
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My mount also does not line up with the print on the handlebar. Don't know if the problem is the print or the mount ::)
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My frame is arriving soon hope it won’t have any issue :'(
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I was ready to break my laptop after seeing your photo.
May Allah have mercy on its soul
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There's a new review on Hygge, this time by a supposedly more experienced reviewer. In his two videos, he brilliantly pointed out all the flaws in the production of those cheap Chinese frames: voids around the head tube, low-quality paint, and so on. The only difference is that the frame he showcased without a handlebar costs a whopping $1600. I hope no laptops were harmed during the filming. ;D
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There's a new review on Hygge, this time by a supposedly more experienced reviewer. In his two videos, he brilliantly pointed out all the flaws in the production of those cheap Chinese frames: voids around the head tube, low-quality paint, and so on. The only difference is that the frame he showcased without a handlebar costs a whopping $1600. I hope no laptops were harmed during the filming. ;D
Link?
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Anyone know what sort of max tire width is? Spec says 28mm, wondering if it is a bit larger as typical.
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Anyone know what sort of max tire width is? Spec says 28mm, wondering if it is a bit larger as typical.
My 28's measure 30,5mm. There is space to go one size up in the rear, but in the front it's almost maxed out.
There are some comments in this youtube video comments section about tire size. 32mm (real size) seems to be the absolute max for front.
So if you've got wide rims, 28 front (tire size, not measured) and 30mm back might be the safe bet.
https://youtu.be/LmtTsbBcm_s?si=Ppq_9Ulk6qU18Ied (https://youtu.be/LmtTsbBcm_s?si=Ppq_9Ulk6qU18Ied)
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Hello.
I also bought a hygge cadre set. yet at the shipping stage. it is generally mentioned that the cadre is hard.
I ordered by trusting the comments. I hope it is a very hard frame.
(https://hizliresim.com/7fus7dv)
(https://hizliresim.com/ifpuf56)
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32 front and back is possible with conti GP 5000. Front has very litte clearance. i am now running 28 front and 30 rear, what looks better in my opinion.
for the frame holes with di2 i was searching quite a bit and used the following:
https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Rahmenstopfen-Frame-Plug-63-mm-65-mm-1-Stueck
modified with hole for cable, they fit perfekt front and rear.
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Here is some of my photos just to share around l.
Have not build it yet.
Want to check with you guys how you all stuff the DI2 battery at the seat post and make it stay?
This is my first time building a bike
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Here is some of my photos just to share around l.
Have not build it yet.
Want to check with you guys how you all stuff the DI2 battery at the seat post and make it stay?
This is my first time building a bike
Lacking a dedicated batteryholder, iv'e used some of the foam material that the frame usually is wrapped with.
Wrap around the battery to get a snug/press fit in the seatpost.
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Hi guys,
I ordered the Hygge frame a month ago and yesterday it already arrived in Germany, although it was expected to arrive beginning of February. At first glance all looks pretty good, no obvious defects.
One small issue I came across…I tried to mount the bottom bracket as a small test but could not screw it in at first try (it’s a token triple8 for SRAM GXP). Anyone of you had problems with the BSA threads?
Will try it again when I come back home from Christmas holiday
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I didn't have any issues with bottom bracket thread. Everything was nice and smooth.
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I didn't have any issues with bottom bracket thread. Everything was nice and smooth.
Same here
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Thanks for the info guys.
Had a quick look in the morning, tried it again and now it works smoothly :)
Will build it up throughout January. I already got most of the parts, only one important thing is missing…the groupset. I want to stay 11 speed so I can swap wheels easily from my other bike plus I already got the 11 speed sram red crankset. Probably going to buy the er9 but I am still wondering if I should maybe wait a little and see if the wheeltop group will be officially launched soon…
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Hello newbie here, wanna check with you guys how much gap is needed between the top of the stem and expander plug? Wanna confirm this before I cut my fork
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I haven’t cut mine yet but maybe check henrychungs build on YT. I think he shows the way how he cut the fork.
Anyone replaced most of the standard screws with titanium screws and can provide an overview of the screw types, especially for stem and saddle?
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I am confused by your statement about the cockpit being flexible.
People write a fair amount of positive feedback on the "the one pro", kecevlo, etc. handlebars which are all the same as the one you got.
Maybe the Lack of siffness correlates with your headset Player issue and your high spacer stack.
Do the others have some additional feedback on the handlebars? I am thinking about getting a set.
I have the Kocevlo cockpit (40cm width, 120 stem) and it's super stiff. I raced crits on it all year. And I have a pretty decent sprint around 1,600W and weigh 85kg. Zero concerns about stiffness.
For the owners of the Hygge frame, how stiff is it? I'm looking for something super stiff.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
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Speedplay Comp pedals + Titanium upgrade kit (
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EG9zrtj) ~150g
Which carbon clamp did you get? I bought this one but the bottom part don't fit properly the gap of the seatpost
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I had to combine 2 clamps.
Buttom of this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005134477962.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.37295c5f1YBCFA&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Top of this: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005284645155.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.37295c5f1YBCFA&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
For weightsaving a SROAD Monoblock cassette, if you can find one
That's 60gr off on paper, i have one on my bike it shifts ok, haven't compared shift quality with Ultegra though.
SROAD12 Speed Road Bicycle Cassette CNC 11-32T Freeewheel Fits Shimano Hub Super Light CNC 230g 12S Road Bike Casstte
MODEL: WSD-8012-1132-A1
SPEED: 12S
SIZE: 131*44MM
TEETH: 11-32T (11-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-25-28-32)
WEIGHT: 230G
MATERIAL: Chrome Molybdenum Vanadium Steel Aviation aluminum alloy
CASSETTE: Fit Shimano Hub body
COLOR: SILVER, RAINBOW, GOLDEN, DARK GRAY.
CHAIN: BLACK COLOR SUMC 12 SPEED 12SL 126 LINKS WITH LOCK.
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I thought about this but these gramm-savings are not in relation to the performance lost in my opinion. Maybe change to DuraAce Cassette but this is a too expensive wearing part. I am riding ZTTO Cassette on my 11-speed 105 bike with no problems (done Paris-Brest-Paris with this) but for 12 Speed and Di2 the opinions are divided.
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I thought about this but these gramm-savings are not in relation to the performance lost in my opinion. Maybe change to DuraAce Cassette but this is a too expensive wearing part. I am riding ZTTO Cassette on my 11-speed 105 bike with no problems (done Paris-Brest-Paris with this) but for 12 Speed and Di2 the opinions are divided.
Yeah, cassettes are on my list of parts that I probably will never buy from Ali again... Had to go through 3 ZTTO cassettes and 7 chains (those are also on the list) in a couple of 1000km's to realise this is not the area to save money.
Sram and Shimano for cassettes and chains since then.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
What did you use to hold the Di2 battery in the seatpost?
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Simply a piece of foam the frame was wrapped in
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
You could save about 15 gramms on that ZTTO Foam Hose Liner.
The Blue Capgo anti-vibration foam (https://www.bike-components.de/de/capgo/Noise-Protection-Schaumstoffhuelle-fuer-Bremszugaussenhuelle-p60382/?o=502308-blau-2-m) is a lot lighter. It weighs about 1.5 Gramms per meter.
Sorry for making you rip apart your bike again :P Nice build tho!
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
Aren't those headset bearings 8mm height? I've measured the ones included by Hygge and they are 6.5mm
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That was no problem. They sit pretty close in the frame. I had to grind the center ring which was delivered with the Avian handlebar 2 Millimeters. But that’s no problem because the material is 3D printed plastic. All sits pretty snug and there is no play in the headset.
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You could save about 15 gramms on that ZTTO Foam Hose Liner.
The Blue Capgo anti-vibration foam (https://www.bike-components.de/de/capgo/Noise-Protection-Schaumstoffhuelle-fuer-Bremszugaussenhuelle-p60382/?o=502308-blau-2-m) is a lot lighter. It weighs about 1.5 Gramms per meter.
Sorry for making you rip apart your bike again :P Nice build tho!
Thanks for your tip on the foam. I think I will change it when I have to change the bearings in the future. Only for that few Gramms that’s too much work ;D
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Bike is ready - first ride tomorrow. 8)
Weight including pedals, Wahoo-mount and Fidlock-Holders (without bottles).
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What did you use to hold the Di2 battery in the seatpost?
I use this one and it fits in the seat tube.
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Bike is ready - first ride tomorrow. 8)
Weight including pedals, Wahoo-mount and Fidlock-Holders (without bottles).
It's amazing you managed to keep the weight so low :)
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I love seeing budget frames built with premium components.
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Nearly finished my build.
Final result will come at the end of this week.
Goal sub 7kg will be reached - any tips to save some weight?
a new crankset light a skypivot would be a lot lighter or the new stuff from elilee thats coming out soon (24mm spindle)
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I have just finished 600km and 7000m of climbing over 6 days on my frame riding to watch the Tour Down Under stages on some pretty poor road surfaces. So far the frame has performed above expectations.
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I think they did a new fork design with changeable inserts. Picture from their last Facebook post:
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I think they did a new fork design with changeable inserts. Picture from their last Facebook post:
I'm guessing this is one of early versions, because if you look at the reviews on aliexpress - you will see, that the early models (until 2023 summer) came with inserts, and the newer models have glued thread.
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I have just finished 600km and 7000m of climbing over 6 days on my frame riding to watch the Tour Down Under stages on some pretty poor road surfaces. So far the frame has performed above expectations.
hi.How did he perform on the climbs, I'm curious about his reactions?
Did it give you a hard frame feeling?
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hi.How did he perform on the climbs, I'm curious about his reactions?
Did it give you a hard frame feeling?
Not at all. It was actually really good, no frame flex at all but not a harsh ride. I was running 28mm tyres at 80psi.
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Hi guys,
took some time to build the bike mainly because I was missing components and because of lack of time. However, the weather here is anyway still too bad to ride it outside.
Bike weighs 7.3 kg including pedals and wahoo mount. Only the bottle cages are missing...so pretty much spot on 7kg without.
Only things that I still need to work on are:
- fine tune the shifting
- check if I like the brakes or if I swap them to the stock ltwoo ones. I like the silver look of the zrace but they still feel a little spongy compared to the ultegra brakes on my old bike. Maybe I just need to re-bleed them again, let's see.
The build-process was generally pretty simple. The only issue I had was that I needed tro drill out the whole for the di2 cable in the chainstay as it was not properly drilled inside. I think there were some sharp edges inside so the cable didn't want to go through. The rest was straightforward.
I will wait with my first ride until we have dry conditions here :)
Future updates to arrive at around 7kg ready to ride might be a lighter cassette (I use a 105 11-32 right now), lighter chain and maybe 140 rotor in the back.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/Zn5Dxs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/RId1O0.jpg)
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Hi guys,
took some time to build the bike mainly because I was missing components and because of lack of time. However, the weather here is anyway still too bad to ride it outside.
Bike weighs 7.3 kg including pedals and wahoo mount. Only the bottle cages are missing...so pretty much spot on 7kg without.
Only things that I still need to work on are:
- fine tune the shifting
- check if I like the brakes or if I swap them to the stock ltwoo ones. I like the silver look of the zrace but they still feel a little spongy compared to the ultegra brakes on my old bike. Maybe I just need to re-bleed them again, let's see.
The build-process was generally pretty simple. The only issue I had was that I needed tro drill out the whole for the di2 cable in the chainstay as it was not properly drilled inside. I think there were some sharp edges inside so the cable didn't want to go through. The rest was straightforward.
I will wait with my first ride until we have dry conditions here :)
Future updates to arrive at around 7kg ready to ride might be a lighter cassette (I use a 105 11-32 right now), lighter chain and maybe 140 rotor in the back.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/Zn5Dxs.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/923/RId1O0.jpg)
What wheels are those? Do I read DuraAce? But i havent seen DA wheels in that finish...
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What wheels are those? Do I read DuraAce? But i havent seen DA wheels in that finish...
Haha, busted! Those are Elitewheels Drive. I really like them since for me the raw carbon finish perfectly matches the finish of the frame but I didn't like the Drive decals. So I ordered them without decals and used the Dura-Ace decals wich are more subtle/classy if you ask me.
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Mine also with Elite Drive. First 500km with the bike were satisfying
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Mine also with Elite Drive. First 500km with the bike were satisfying
Nice :) So at least two Hygge bikes with Drive wheels on the German roads!
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Those glossy wheels are nice with the frame :)
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My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/EFfi8nA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x2kzVa8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1hlbfhr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6dnshn0.jpeg)
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My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
@stevenC what 3d printed saddle are you using in your bike? The color looks amazing! Is that a custom color?
On my end i ordered a chameleon model S. Should be here early March and they were apparently out of stock so needs an extra week to build/paint the frame. They offered me other colors that were pretty ugly (but more expensive free of charge but I'm in no rush). Going to be building this with a 105 di2 from theproscloset during the close out sale last year.
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@stevenC what 3d printed saddle are you using in your bike? The color looks amazing! Is that a custom color?
On my end i ordered a chameleon model S. Should be here early March and they were apparently out of stock so needs an extra week to build/paint the frame. They offered me other colors that were pretty ugly (but more expensive free of charge but I'm in no rush). Going to be building this with a 105 di2 from theproscloset during the close out sale last year.
Colour was available on their AliExpress store but the colour choices seem to have been narrowed down now. It looks great in the flesh, quite a bit of sparkle to it in the sun.
(https://i.imgur.com/c1BD4nS.jpeg)
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beautiful bike!
I was gonna say it was the Ryet Aircode (pro stealth shape), I have the same one on my bike, end of march will be 1yr with it, it's comfortable and the quality is very nice, it's still same as new
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
6,4 N.m in order to avoid slipping.
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For your information, I sell mine (see "sales and classified" topic) because of injury. The bike is only 600 km (Shimano 105 Di2).
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What saddle clamp does Hygge install? Do they include both 7*7 and 7*9 clamps?
Thanks
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What torque are you guys using on the seat clamp?
I went with 6nm, carbon paste and thread lock on the bolt. So far seems ok.
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I went with 6nm, carbon paste and thread lock on the bolt. So far seems ok.
Thanks, I did the same as you but only 5Nm and the seatpost is slipping. I will now try 6Nm.
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What saddle clamp does Hygge install? Do they include both 7*7 and 7*9 clamps?
Thanks
It is a single vertical type clamp, so both 7*7 and 7*9 saddle rails are compatible. I do not yet own the frame but the clamp style is clear from the pictures.
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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I am very appreciative that such thing exists to make information about this topic more reliable and easily accessible. I am yet to make purchase of this frame in the upcoming March anniversary sale. Almost all questions I had were answered in this thread, but I am left with the dilemma of sizing of the frame.
I am 175.5cm tall with 82cm inseam. This puts me in the bottom end of size M, but I am afraid that it will be too long and too tall for my posture, even more so given the 18mm offset of the seat post. My current setup is 385mm reach, 540mm stack, 100mm stem (slammed on top of the headset cover) and a 0 offset seat post. If I go with S size frame, the saddle will be pushed 8mm forward to achieve the same position (that is according to calculations based on my current setup) and will have -4mm of reach which is fine as I feel that the current 385mm is a little too long. Will have to use 30-35mm of spacers to get to the same stack height, although I feel I can go lower given the reduced reach. The stem length will remain the same, 100mm. Saddle height is 72.5cm.
This is all on paper in regard to mu current bike, old Cube Agree Pro rim brake from 2012 (ancient, I know :D), and I would greatly appreciate some real-world input about sizing.
Thanks to all in advance!
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Hi all, I am new to this forum, and I am very appreciative that such thing exists to make information about this topic more reliable and easily accessible. I am yet to make purchase of this frame in the upcoming March anniversary sale. Almost all questions I had were answered in this thread, but I am left with the dilemma of sizing of the frame.
I am 175.5cm tall with 82cm inseam. This puts me in the bottom end of size M, but I am afraid that it will be too long and too tall for my posture, even more so given the 18mm offset of the seat post. My current setup is 385mm reach, 540mm stack, 100mm stem (slammed on top of the headset cover) and a 0 offset seat post. If I go with S size frame, the saddle will be pushed 8mm forward to achieve the same position (that is according to calculations based on my current setup) and will have -4mm of reach which is fine as I feel that the current 385mm is a little too long. Will have to use 30-35mm of spacers to get to the same stack height, although I feel I can go lower given the reduced reach. The stem length will remain the same, 100mm. Saddle height is 72.5cm.
This is all on paper in regard to mu current bike, old Cube Agree Pro rim brake from 2012 (ancient, I know :D), and I would greatly appreciate some real-world input about sizing.
Thanks to all in advance!
I am 172 with a 82cm inseam. I have the S and had to use a 80mm stem (slammed) to get it to fit. Because of the slack seattube angle and the setback seatpost (no 0-setback seatpost available) the bike becomes a little longer... I like a more compact position, so I try to keep the reach as short as possible.
So I would guess the S will fit you better.
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Finally build finish my bike after 4 months. Just completed 60KM on it. Smooth ride just having a bit of play at the headset while braking.
Sub 7kg with Di2 ulterga R8170, Magene PES 505 power meter, Superteam 50/60 wheelset, Ryet 3D Carbon saddle and Onirii SPD SL pedal.
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Finally build finish my bike after 4 months. Just completed 60KM on it. Smooth ride just having a bit of play at the headset while braking.
Sub 7kg with Di2 ulterga R8170, Magene PES 505 power meter, Superteam 50/60 wheelset, Ryet 3D Carbon saddle and Onirii SPD SL pedal.
What an absolute unit of the bike. Did you paint the handlebar yourself?
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What an absolute unit of the bike. Did you paint the handlebar yourself?
Thanks. Didn’t paint it myself ask them to paint everything including the seatpost.
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I finally built the bike and take one week of riding on a trainer, everything work nice, no creaking or clicking, seatpost doesn't slip despite the fact that I did not use grip paste and cut seatpost so clamp doesn't contacted with grippy coating.
The build was relatively easy, no stuck cables or bad threads, calipers and bottom bracket are align.
But there was a several nuances during the build:
1) Sharp edge where cables exits from handlebar (under the "stem" area), not enough to cut housings, but enough to scratch them and make routing process more difficult. So i sanded it.
2) Expander plug fit in steerer tube very tight and i can't extract it without tools, so i sanded some material from plug. But i think, this is plug problem, not steerer tube, because expander plug from my old bike fits with no problem.
3) Stuffing four housings in headset pressing ring was real pain in my ass, there is enough space for them but no more than that.
4) Computer mount, which comes with handlebar is flexy, and I'm afraid it might break on bumps. Here some video only with garmin edge 520
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6zJ4M9U8mGiqyUYu8
And with 200g bike light
https://photos.app.goo.gl/h3aWyDJYAE5Yg76n8
So I'm looking for more rigid computer mount.
But overall it's a good frameset, it's stiffer in bottom bracket area than my old Jamis Xenith Race (2014), handlebar shape nice and comfortable, laser decals looks amazing.
Final weight is 7.685 kg with pedals, bottle cages, computer mounts and sensors, I took into account all the components that are attached to the frame.
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So, it seems I am once again unlucky enough to have a problem. My handlebar has developed all these little bumps in the paint, especially on the exposed top part where there is no bartape.
I have searched a little and have found this is called "microblisters"and is because of bad prepping before paint. Moisture is trapped and after a while it come to the surface and pushes the paint up.
I have contacted Hygge and will keep you updated...
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So, it seems I am once again unlucky enough to have a problem. My handlebar has developed all these little bumps in the paint, especially on the exposed top part where there is no bartape.
I have searched a little and have found this is called "microblisters"and is because of bad prepping before paint. Moisture is trapped and after a while it come to the surface and pushes the paint up.
I have contacted Hygge and will keep you updated...
How much flex does your handlebar have? Does it flex, or is it stiff as alloy handlebar+stem?
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How much flex does your handlebar have? Does it flex, or is it stiff as alloy handlebar+stem?
I don't put down a lot of watts, but to me it is plenty stiff... You can find this handlebar from Kocevlo on Ali
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
Like I said before I noticed a lot of little bubbles on the handlebar last week. After looking it up this is probably microblistering and is because of bad paint preparation and moisture trapped under the paint. This will show as bubbles after a while.
I contacted Hygge on Aliexpress because the bike is only 7 months old and has done a little over 1.000km (it was not used during winter).
They straight up denied warranty because according to them it is impossible that paint defects show up only after 7 months and they also claim paint defects are no reason for warranty.
I also went to their Aliexpress store page and looked trough the reviews. They seem to be having a habit of denying responsibility of wrong deliveries or frames that get damaged in transport.
I am actually really sick of all these crappy brands and sellers that are supposed to give 24 months of warranty, but if you need it act like nothing it's wrong so leave it to the customer to spend a lot more money to fix the sellers problems.
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Meanwhile i'm supposed to receive my frame next week lol
You should post the pics of it here and on socials since they seem to lurk and steal people's photos. Maybe that'll get them to act.
On the other hand, i think they use a rebranded handlebar from some other company and sell it for like 100$ so it's not that expensive if you ever need to purchase another one and hope that yours was a one off defect....or go with your own handlebar... But i hope you get it resolved somehow
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
Like I said before I noticed a lot of little bubbles on the handlebar last week. After looking it up this is probably microblistering and is because of bad paint preparation and moisture trapped under the paint. This will show as bubbles after a while.
I contacted Hygge on Aliexpress because the bike is only 7 months old and has done a little over 1.000km (it was not used during winter).
They straight up denied warranty because according to them it is impossible that paint defects show up only after 7 months and they also claim paint defects are no reason for warranty.
I also went to their Aliexpress store page and looked trough the reviews. They seem to be having a habit of denying responsibility of wrong deliveries or frames that get damaged in transport.
I am actually really sick of all these crappy brands and sellers that are supposed to give 24 months of warranty, but if you need it act like nothing it's wrong so leave it to the customer to spend a lot more money to fix the sellers problems.
Can you show a photo of these bubbles?
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Can you show a photo of these bubbles?
(https://i.imgur.com/24ybFaN.jpeg)
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Well, I would recommend anyone thinking about a Hygge frame to look somewhere else. This brand is very dishonest and WILL NOT HONOUR THE 24 MONTH WARRANTY they claim on their website.
I remember yours was one of the first Hygge frames here. Looked terrific, price was great, communication was good ~, excellent colors etc. Within 6 months we have come this far. Long term reviews are so important! Did you pester them on their IG account yet? I have often found companies respond better on social media than sending them a mail.
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Hygge probably used the bottom of the barrel integrated carbon bars similar to those cheap Kocevlo drop bars for like $50 USD. I ordered Kocevlo bars that came blistered like that brand new, luckily I was able to return it. Plus it was heavy as s**t at 410g. My integrated gravel drops are a good 60g less weight and much better quality. I think if I do get a new frame in the future, I'll opt to buy without handle bars.
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I have a VB-268 frameset delivering later today. When it comes it to building up these super budget frames I find that a careful consideration of 3rd party components, wheels, and hardware are far more important than the frame itself. At this point I don't even bother ordering handlebars or headset bearings anymore.
Obviously a customer should not need to do this if the brand is providing decent equipment. But usually this is where the cost cutting measures have been made. Don't leave the 3 contact points up for chance.
Quality handlebar/stem/wheels from reputable brands, extra long compression plug, and a reliable bottom bracket. The marginal upgrade of each component collectively can transform most $500 frames.
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(https://i.imgur.com/24ybFaN.jpeg)
Really looks like it's purely a surface finish issue. I painted trim once, too much primer and too much paint in too cold a room and not enough time between coats, and the paint cracked all over. I know nothing, but i really doubt this has anything to do with the structural integrity of the bars. I dont understand from your picture if you got a special paint job or if it's just standard black bars.
What's the answer here, a quick fine grit sanding and clear nail polish to protect the carbon, or just sanding and polishing / buffing as you probably wont reach the carbon?
Unless you think the carbon is getting soft and the whole thing is starting to delaminate and collapse on itself?
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I don't plan to do anything with the bars. It will probably be a finish issue so no integrity problem.
The bars are cheap yes. These are indeed the same as the Kocevlo bars that you can get for a little over 60€. But since they are integrated bars, I am not looking forward to replacing them.
I'm just amazed at how Hygge is handling this. It can not cost them more then 30-40 USD to send me a new handlebar, bit they just deny the problem and act as if granting warranty is a choice of the seller. If they act like this for this little money, you can be sure they will not honour warranty when there is a problem with the frame. The bad reviews support this hypothesis. They just hide behind Aliexpress policies instead of helping the customer.
It looks like Hygge is just one more seller that is friendly and supportive when they want to sell you something, but the opposite when you need them to fix a problem.
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It looks like Hygge is just one more seller that is friendly and supportive when they want to sell you something, but the opposite when you need them to fix a problem.
Congratulation, you discovered a typical seller/brand that sells very cheap products.
They (and many others) sell a frameset, sometimes with a handlebar, for 450-550USD, it's 3-5 times cheaper than cheapest options from a big brands. And for me it's strange to expect, that they want to spend 50-100USD to replace handlebar with bad paintjob. With these cheap chinese frames you just play roulette, with high risk, high reward.
And about handlebar, I suggest you or forget about it, or start to write them on social networks, aliexpress chat, mail etc. This might lasts weeks. If you still can - open aliexpress dispute.
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Received and started building the bike and ran into my first problem.
Overall on the outside everything looks pretty good.
However, my seat post won't go in all the way because there is a lip of carbon. I'm missing around 10mm of seat post inside to get my desired seat height. I think I have 2 options:
1) File down the carbon in the seat tube so that the seat post goes in.
2) Cut the seat post by 10mm
Also noticed some imperfections but I think are mostly cosmetic from the mold
Does anyone know what's better?
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How far does your seatpost go in? There is a max insertion depth, so it is normal you have to cut your seatpost
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How far does your seatpost go in? There is a max insertion depth, so it is normal you have to cut your seatpost
It was stopping at the #7 marking which is like 18cm in the seat tube
Also for future reference. official torque specs from Hygge
Seat Post clam: 5-6 nm
Stem: 5-6 nm
Handlebar: 5-6 nm
Compression plug: 6 nm
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It was stopping at the #7 marking which is like 18cm in the seat tube
Also for future reference. official torque specs from Hygge
Seat Post clam: 5-6 nm
Stem: 5-6 nm
Handlebar: 5-6 nm
Compression plug: 6 nm
That's already very deep I think. You best check with the seller, but I think you can cut some cm's off the seatpost. So don't start filing down the frame
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For reference: I had the same with my tfsa frame. Could only insert 14cm. They told me you need about 10cm insertion.
But check with the seller. Every frame is different. I know I cut my Hygge seatpost
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I spent a day umming and ahhing over which colourway to go with and after seeing your bike, I bit the bullet and ordered the same. I think my build will be exactly the same as yours except for I've opted for mechanical ultegra as my goal was to keep total build under £1200 which seem pretty mental given current bike prices. My last build was a Supersix HM in 2018 so I'm keen to see how cheap Chinese bike frame compare to older high end stuff.
How is it holding up? Did you have any QC issues ( paint over spray, irregular or non concentric thru axle holes, seat post slipping?).
Also how does it ride? I get this is totally subjective but any feedback would be appreciated.
:)My frame arrived on Friday and I built it up over the weekend.
First impressions are great, paint quality seems nice and internal finishing also looks nice.
Still waiting on Elitewheels Edge wheelset being delivered to finish properly.
(https://i.imgur.com/EFfi8nA.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x2kzVa8.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1hlbfhr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6dnshn0.jpeg)
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Thanks, I did the same as you but only 5Nm and the seatpost is slipping. I will now try 6Nm.
A little update. The seatpost seems to be stable with 6Nm and 2 layers of cloth tape to the back of the seatpost. I have now done about 300km without it slipping.
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the frame turned out to be rigid as I did not expect. the power transmission is very good. i like it very much. i use it with pleasure. hygge responds clearly to questions about customer satisfaction, but if you have a problem, I think they are very inadequate in sending spare parts and bodies.
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A little update. The seatpost seems to be stable with 6Nm and 2 layers of cloth tape to the back of the seatpost. I have now done about 300km without it slipping.
it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
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it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
I asked the seller and they said 5-6 Nm... They also have sent me a new seatpost clamp. It seems they have changed the design since I have ordered the frame. But it looks like it is coming via a very slow route, so I am still waiting for it. It was nice of them to send it though.
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it's odd, typically the torque specs for seatposts of that nature are much higher. On my LT it says max 12nm on the clamp, and frame, seatpost & clamp systems look very very similar. The seatpost stopped slipping when i applied proper torque (i think at least 8 from memory?) I always use carbon grip paste & didnt have to be more creative than that.
I torqued my seatpost to 4nm and it's good, but I'm pretty lightweight.
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I torqued my seatpost to 4nm and it's good, but I'm pretty lightweight.
Well, I am no heavyweight either with my 65kg...
Maybe the new clamp will make all the difference.
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I spent a day umming and ahhing over which colourway to go with and after seeing your bike, I bit the bullet and ordered the same. I think my build will be exactly the same as yours except for I've opted for mechanical ultegra as my goal was to keep total build under £1200 which seem pretty mental given current bike prices. My last build was a Supersix HM in 2018 so I'm keen to see how cheap Chinese bike frame compare to older high end stuff.
How is it holding up? Did you have any QC issues ( paint over spray, irregular or non concentric thru axle holes, seat post slipping?).
Also how does it ride? I get this is totally subjective but any feedback would be appreciated.
:)
Rides great, stiff and aggressive but decently compliant. I’ve just fitted new wheels with 30mm tyres which helps.
Holding up well to the Scottish roads and weather so far.
I’ve not had any issues with the seatpost slipping. My main issues have been eliminating play in the headset, I replaced the steered plug with one from Specialized and it seems much better. I’m also in the process of replacing a few of the bolts as the supplied ones are a bit soft and rust super quickly. A nice excuse to replace with some titanium.
I would say routing the cables for a mechanical groupset will be tricky. Di2 made for a very easy build.
It’s a great value frameset, no regrets from me so far.
(https://imgur.com/a/J3yoIOv)
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I'm going to give another update:
I could not shake the feeling that the frame was very unstable in the front... So I checked the headset once again and I could still feel movement in the upper part when applying the front brake and rocking the bike front to back. I tried to increase the tension by tightening the upper bolt, but the only result was that the headset expander came loose.
I than exchanged the expander by another type and this was enough to be able to increase tension and remove the play in the headset. I did a 155km ride yesterday with a lot of fast descends and now the bike is stable. So the play in the headset was the cause of that.
The seatpost stays put with the 6Nm and a double layer of cloth tape. Since I seem to be one of the few with this problem, I presume the new seatpost clamp does solve problems with slipping.
The seller contacted me again on Aliexpress after denying warranty on the handlebar. They have agreed to send me a new handlebar and this should be on its way.
So after some work and tinkering, everything with the frame seems to be OK and the seller is also honouring the warranty after some convincing. I am happy with the frame now.
And to respond to the previous poster: routing cable for mechanical shifting is pretty straightforward, but you have to use a routing kit. At first I was struggling with the rear derailleur cable but when I started using the routing kit is was very easy. I would recommend getting some rubber or plastic cable sleeves for where the cables exit the frame since none are included.
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I had to apply a good amount of grip paste to get the expander plug to prevent slipping. I torqued plug to 6nm and it's fine.
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I had to apply a good amount of grip paste to get the expander plug to prevent slipping. I torqued plug to 6nm and it's fine.
I had the same happen with my gravel bike, so I blame the crappy expander construction and not the frame. Lesson learned. From now on I'll use the better type of expander.
The "crappy"type of expander is also very prone to corrosion it seems. The springs were already very rusted on my Hygge.
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I received my Model S last Friday (I opted to pay a bit more to avoid taxes), making it a total of 18 days from the order placement, which is quite reasonable. Initially, I was informed there would be an additional 5-day wait due to opting for a color that was out of stock. Here are my first impressions:
The rear triangle and fork don't seem to be the stiffest. This makes me wonder, especially since I have two other Chinese bikes that I've somewhat retired – one being a 2016 HM66 Hongfu and the other a 2017 Workswell endurance bike. I'm considering doing a comparison video and sharing it here. My usual ride is a 2018 Cannondale HM, which is noticeably stiffer, but then again, it was significantly more expensive.
The paint job is exceptional; it's hard to find any faults. The handlebar has surpassed my expectations; it's plenty stiff. There are definitely some rough edges inside the frame. I haven't finished building it yet, but I can feel some rough work between the top down tube and the head tube. The bottom bracket went on smoothly, the only component I've fitted so far.
I'm still waiting on some parts and pondering over the groupset. My plan is to build it with an Ultegra 11-speed mechanical groupset, as I didn't want to invest too much and see this more as a budget build, aiming for around £1200. I'll likely use a mix of Ltwoo R9 shifters, Ultegra R8000 & R8100 components, Elite wheels, etc. I'm not entirely sold on Chinese groupsets just yet.
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I'm still waiting on some parts and pondering over the groupset. My plan is to build it with an Ultegra 11-speed mechanical groupset, as I didn't want to invest too much and see this more as a budget build, aiming for around £1200. I'll likely use a mix of Ltwoo R9 shifters, Ultegra R8000 & R8100 components, Elite wheels, etc. I'm not entirely sold on Chinese groupsets just yet.
I you want to go Ultegra 11-speed (like I did) I recommend you look for complete 2nd hand groupsets. There are a lot for sale and the prices and condition is very reasonable. You can even look on Ali for new (older) shimano groupsets. I have seen very good prices on those.
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Looks like page 24 is busted.
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Update on my handlebar issue... The seller did get back to me and acknowledged the paint problem and sent me a new handlebar. I received it today.
For reference: The 380/80 handlebar weighs 350gr (without additional hardware)
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Just checking back in to see everyone else's experience here. Strava tells me I have 3311km on my bike so far, issue free. I have changed the cockpit post bike fit as I needed 130mm on the stem. So far so good. I feel like I had great value for money with this build and wouldn't hesitate to buy another frame from these guys.
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
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Finished my build and rode ~100km with it so far.
Having issues with headset play.
I've torqued the compression plug to 6nm with and without carbon paste. and the stem to 6nm as well but after one ride there is always some play.
Has anyone encountered this and was able to fix it?
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
Hey so I don’t know if you’ve seen my posts in this thread earlier on but this frame is my first ever carbon frame on a bike so I literally have no reference to compare to sadly. What I can tell you is that when I started riding this bike I was around 115KG and today I am 96KG and the bike feels pretty stiff to me, especially the back end of it and bottom bracket.
The carbon layup isn’t bad, but isn’t outstanding either - it’s ok. There were some sharp bits inside especially in the rear triangle but for a frame that was £450 I wasn’t expecting much. Other than that issue free, I did have the seatpost slipping at the start and have to really tighten that thing down but it doesn’t move now.
Positive experience for me, I would love to ride an SL7 to compare but haven’t had the opportunity to ride anything else yet. My current plans are to keep riding this until I get bored or it breaks!
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@Wrighty, could you share your impressions of the carbon layup within the frame, as well as the stiffness of both the fork and rear triangle? I haven't assembled mine yet, and I'm debating whether to proceed or reconsider. I might be overly cautious, but I've noticed some flex in the fork (I'm 80kg, so not particularly heavy), and while I understand an axle will reinforce it, it's still a concern. Additionally, I've observed numerous sharp edges and creases within the frame, which doesn't inspire confidence.
Hello, mate. Very good power transmission. Very rigid. It's a stiff frame.
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Finished my build and rode ~100km with it so far.
Having issues with headset play.
I've torqued the compression plug to 6nm with and without carbon paste. and the stem to 6nm as well but after one ride there is always some play.
Has anyone encountered this and was able to fix it?
Aha, so I am not alone...
I too had / have problems with this. At first I tought the bike was just unstable or it was the narrow handlebar, but it seemed there was a small amount of play in the headset, especially at the top.
Could not get the expander to stay in the steerer tube, so exchanged it for another type and thought the problem was solved. Stability was very good...but only for 2 rides. The play came back again and the expander was pulled up again.
I have now torqued the expander to 9 Nm and the stem bolts to 5Nm so we'll see if that solves anything.
I have also noticed that the headset spacers / adapters that are included with my new (warranty) handlebar are metal and not plastic like the set I received with the frame. Which one do you have? Maybe the plastic causes some problems with compression / expansion which loosens the assembly....
Too bad I would have to remove all the cables to switch it, so no fast way to test this... Integrated cabling is so practical ;D
I have also noticed these headset assemblies (when bought separately on Ali) standard come with 2 different conical pieces that sit on top of the top bearing. One for integrated and one for non integrated setup. From what I can find it is the other pieces that is used when routing internally and not the one supplied with the handlebar.... Just speculations though...
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Hello, first post on the forum.
I have the hygge model s for about 3-4 months now, ridden about 3k kms.
The last bike I had was a velobuild so not my first Chinese frame.
I was Impressed with the frame quality not so much with the internal, not that I can spot an issue but it would be a great step up to make the frames with eps/latex.
The only issue I have encountered is as others have said is the top headset play. I removed the handlebar with the hoses attached, the spacers and the top bearing cover and I came to the conclusion that the top cover was slightly rubbing on the carbon lip of the bearing in the front. I filed/sanded the cover and checked that I could finally tighten it to have no play and fit a sheet of paper all around. It was no easy task with the four hoses in the headset assembly but I managed to make it work.
The test was a 400k brevet where the bike was flawless in all conditions(rain, wind, heat, cold, humidity).
The only "remaining" issue is a slight creaking from the rear wheel when climbing in the lowest gears 34-32 an 34-30 but I guess with a truing it will be ok as the wheel needs it(it has a bit of lateral run out).
Really happy overall for the price and quality, I would recommend it to anyone that likes to tinker a little bit with his/her bike and has a "good" mechanical understanding.
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I was Impressed with the frame quality not so much with the internal, not that I can spot an issue but it would be a great step up to make the frames with eps/latex.
The only issue I have encountered is as others have said is the top headset play. I removed the handlebar with the hoses attached, the spacers and the top bearing cover and I came to the conclusion that the top cover was slightly rubbing on the carbon lip of the bearing in the front. I filed/sanded the cover and checked that I could finally tighten it to have no play and fit a sheet of paper all around. It was no easy task with the four hoses in the headset assembly but I managed to make it work.
I also had this problem of the cover rubbing the frame. I slid the handlebar and spacers up as far as I could and took a small block of wood and sandpaper between the frame and the underside of the cover and sanded it like that. Not easy, no...
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Aha, so I am not alone...
I too had / have problems with this. At first I tought the bike was just unstable or it was the narrow handlebar, but it seemed there was a small amount of play in the headset, especially at the top.
Could not get the expander to stay in the steerer tube, so exchanged it for another type and thought the problem was solved. Stability was very good...but only for 2 rides. The play came back again and the expander was pulled up again.
I have now torqued the expander to 9 Nm and the stem bolts to 5Nm so we'll see if that solves anything.
I have also noticed that the headset spacers / adapters that are included with my new (warranty) handlebar are metal and not plastic like the set I received with the frame. Which one do you have? Maybe the plastic causes some problems with compression / expansion which loosens the assembly....
Too bad I would have to remove all the cables to switch it, so no fast way to test this... Integrated cabling is so practical ;D
I have also noticed these headset assemblies (when bought separately on Ali) standard come with 2 different conical pieces that sit on top of the top bearing. One for integrated and one for non integrated setup. From what I can find it is the other pieces that is used when routing internally and not the one supplied with the handlebar.... Just speculations though...
I have received the frame a week or so ago, which is less than a month from order to delivery which is pretty damn fast. I only did visual inspection then because the box was a little bit bent and beaten up but no issues whatsoever regarding damage of contents. Yesterday I did a "dry" assembly of the frame components only just so see how everything fits and can say that all seems fine. Bottom bracket screwed in as it should, RD hanger fits like it should, top headset bearing sits very good and there is no movement in the bearing seat of the frame, also the bottom bearing sits good but there is minimal next to no movement but I had that with my Cube frame and caused no issues, so my guess is that here also this won't be an issue. Spacers are metal and fit very good. The issue arises with the C ring. It sits very good on the bearing but there is movement between the inside of the C ring and the steerer tube of the fork. I did not tighten everything down since I did not cut the fork. My presumption is that this interface C ring/steerer tube is the source of the headset play everyone is experiencing. Is it normal for this interface to be so slack or should this be snug? Steerer tube measures 28.6mm as it should but the inside of the C ring is close to 29mm (28,8) I think of shimming this to eliminate the play. This is my first integrated headset that I have been working on.
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The issue arises with the C ring. It sits very good on the bearing but there is movement between the inside of the C ring and the steerer tube of the fork. I did not tighten everything down since I did not cut the fork. My presumption is that this interface C ring/steerer tube is the source of the headset play everyone is experiencing. Is it normal for this interface to be so slack or should this be snug? Steerer tube measures 28.6mm as it should but the inside of the C ring is close to 29mm (28.8). I think of shimming this to eliminate the play. This is my first integrated headset that I have been working on.
Nice find... The inside of the C-ring I have here is 29,1mm. But since it is open it might be possible to compress it a little bit with a vice...
I went ahead and ordered this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html)
It has a totally different C-ring, so maybe that will help.
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Nice find... The inside of the C-ring I have here is 29,1mm. But since it is open it might be possible to compress it a little bit with a vice...
I went ahead and ordered this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006475816268.html)
It has a totally different C-ring, so maybe that will help.
Will definitely try to compress the C ring and maybe add some alu tape to the fork and see what that does. Thanks for the link, if I fail at modifying, I will order that part.
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Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sed5e94b9578c4d32930cd68d227bac2eb.jpg)
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Here is a picture that illustrates what I was trying to say. On the left is the setup for internal cabling and on the right for external. Hygge has supplied the right C-ring, so that might not be the ideal combination.
Judging from the picture it also looks like the C-ring (if you can call it that) for internal cables is higher. That could also explain the rubbing of the lower cap on the frame with the C-ring on the right. ...
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sed5e94b9578c4d32930cd68d227bac2eb.jpg)
So they are supplying the wrong ring? Even if so, the ring provided should still hold the steerer tube snug to eliminate play. I have contacted them with this issue with a picture attached of the "starry" ring that is on the left column in the picture. Will see what the response will be.
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Lots of people have no play, so maybe it's just tolerances. Not saying one is wrong and one is right. I'm just going to try the other one and see if it helps.
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But then again: if it makes no difference, why are there 2 different ring supplied in the set in the picture? ???
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Re: Aluminum tape/foil sandwiched between fork and c-ring. It works in a pinch - I tried it on VB GF002 which had the infamous headset play issue like many other VB bikes. The play disappeared to an extent but it never felt *right*. The issue completely went away with new c-ring that VB sent after a year. The new ring has an extra cutout v/s old ring and is probably made of softer material too.
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The thing is i don't actually have any play after setting up the bike in my garage. The play starts to develop during the ride...i'm assuming after hitting some bumps/road cracks i would guess. I've re-tightened the topcap screw a little bit more and I will report back on my next ride. It seems like it was not very tight after my few initial ride.
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With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame
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With me, the play is not very noticeable when not riding the bike. I have to press the front brake lever while sitting on my top tube (to keep the rear wheel from lifting from the ground) and rock the bike front and back. I can than see the headset cap move about 1mm relative to the frame
Yes this is what i notice with mine too. Hold front break and rock the bike back and forth. There is a very minimal amount of play but enough to notice.
I just did a 30km ride after tightening the topcap to 4nm but the play still came back after the ride. :(
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Regarding the play issue which develops during the ride, would suggest you apply medium strength thread locker to the stem bolts. Screws prabably untightening due to road vibrations
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Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.
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I have a brand new frame in size L that i'm not going to use. Anyone interested? Based in the Netherlands :)
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Did a 125km ride today and the play did not come back. So for now the 9Nm on the expander (higher than recommended) and the 5Nm on the stem bolt seems to hold.
I think i'll give it a try too, but i'm not sure that is what my problem is.
I did 6.5nm on the expander, and 6nm on the stem bolts and i still have some play after my ride.
But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
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But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
Yes you should use carbon paste on the stem/steerer tube interface.
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Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.
The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.
Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.
The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
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Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.
The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.
Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.
The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
Yes, the hoses are just guides. Do full external housing.
I did full mechanical so 4 cables is possible. No experience with Compressionless housing
And indeed, no grommets supplied. This is a shame.
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https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ
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4) Computer mount, which comes with handlebar is flexy, and I'm afraid it might break on bumps. Here some video only with garmin edge 520
[...]
And with 200g bike light
[...]
So I'm looking for more rigid computer mount.
You should be fine!
I've got the same feeling, but for now it is working fine with computer + light (~6 months of use).
Trace Velo has tested it and recommends the Hygge support unlike others on Aliexpress:
https://youtu.be/FERc_xzoESg?si=hbN-qjnUTMXCcVKx&t=102
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Soo guys, the whole headset discussion here is a bit bogged down. Unfortunately, there are a lot of people here and at Hygge who have no idea about mechanics or bikes, and half-knowledge is being thrown around ("have you tried tightening it really hard?", "what if you use threadlocker?" ...).
Here is my view:
1) Hygge (or the headset manufacturer) have been quite grossly negligent here. This is a faulty design. It is impossible to achieve a play-free fit with the stiff headset cone supplied! Ever since there have been ahead headsets, they have always been made with flexible compression rings:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_%28bicycle_part%29
2) The cone only encloses the stem to a maximum of 270deg. When braking (abutment against the lower bearing) the fork stem is pressed forwards into the opening, which is mechanically very unfavourable.
3) It is nonsense to hope that the cone supplied by Hygge can be free of play with a lot of torque on the compression bolt, loctite, high clamping torque on the stem, ....
4) Tolerances can of course play a role, but the steerer tube and taper are not designed as a press fit. A conical, flexible compression ring is required here!
Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.
- Replace the entire upper headset unit:
But then you might have to rethink the connection (dovetail) to the cockpit.
Maybe this + a 3D-printed interface?
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
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I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SIRHNtz9nvQ
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html
I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.
I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.
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I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html
I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.
I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.
These are the types of posts that make this forum great. Thanks for sharing.
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Hello, I fixed the headset play simply adding a 1mm headset spacer (cutting it to a C shape) above the C ring, I think a 0.5mm would be enough but i don't have anyone right now. C-ring I'm using is this one(http://Screenshot_2024-05-15-19-45-49-19_57e717c094f371a1dada6567a1123b99.jpg) a had around. Expander I'm using is Deda Expander 70,very stiff and light, those AliExpress expanders with O-rings or springs doesn't convince me. also I'm not using the Hygge handlebar, Og-evkin one instead.
There's no play at all, I filled the tiny gap (smaller than the one at the bottom of the head tube) with grease to avoid dust and water ingress. Expander is tighten to the Deda's recommended 5Nm and stem bolts also 5Nm.
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^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...
Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?
On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.
Thanks
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Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?
I've been seen to 3d print moon shaped spacers so that i could compress the steerer column, avoiding the plastic thing that sits just on top of the frame, from rubbing on it. If it rubs, some of that compression torque is going into the frame, which will probably result in headset play. Generally, nothing on a bike should rub.
It probably sounds theoretical, but once you've built a few bikes and faced these problems, it makes sense.
As w most things, you learn by doing.
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Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.
I have received the new headset spacer assembly with the plastic ring. The difference is not 3 mm but about 1mm when I just put them together on my desk. So when you install it and with some compression it will probably be less (since I expect the plastic ring to compress more). I would think that this is better than the steel ring because the cap that covers the top bearing rubs the frame with this one.
I am not planning to install this ring as long as my current solution stays tight...
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^Nice,
I'm sort of new to building bikes...
Can you explain how does adding an extra spacer will resolve the headset play? Also where did you purchase the spacer from?
On my end, i did the same as TinyDinosaur and it seems to have worked for 1 ride. Will continue on a few other rides and report back.
Thanks
Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
"Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
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Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
"Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?
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What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?
Up to down:
Steerer tube/stem cap
Stem
Spacers
Cover
Spacer
C-ring
Bearing
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Ah, that is different from the standard spacer-set supplied with the frame
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Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
"Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.
Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?
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I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.
Any ideas?
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Thanks for the explanation. With integrated headset, is there a way to install this spacer without having to undo all my hydraulic cables?
I installed without undoing my Force AXS hydraulic cables
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I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.
Any ideas?
I might be wrong, but I think the lip is there to prevent the seatpost from being inserted too far. There is a maximum insertion and you have to cut your seatpost if it is too long. Forcing the seatpost past this ridge probably has gotten it jammed.
Maybe you can install an old saddle and tap it from the bottom?
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Inject a little grease. You can do it like this
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So, turns out that lip is the limit line for the seatpost.. if you want the seatpost to go in further then you need to cut. I got it out, or i should say my LBS did.
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Well the tiny bit of play is back after a ~100km this time (a few rides)
Not sure how i can add a 0.5mm C shaped spacer to the headset. Can't it just slip out or the compression will hold it in place?
I think i will go ahead and order the Specialized design mentioned by @fabxyz on ali
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Not sure how i can add a 0.5mm C shaped spacer to the headset. Can't it just slip out or the compression will hold it in place?
I think i will go ahead and order the Specialized design mentioned by @fabxyz on ali
Compression would keep it in place, shouldn't move. And you have hoses in the part that requires it to be C shaped rather than a full ring anyway, so it can't really go anywhere.
That said, if there's a cheap AliExpress version that is known to fix the problem, it's probably worth biting the bullet, if you tell me I can pay 20 bucks to get rid of play for good, I'd make that trade every time.
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I've put some miles on my Hygge Model S, and here are my general thoughts:
Pros
Paint Job: The paint job is superb. While I think purple on blue would look better, it's hard to fault it at this price point. However, the paint scratches easily, so be careful during the build process.
Delivery and Packaging: It arrived in about two weeks from China in a small box but was packaged well.
Value for Money: The bike offers incredible value for money. With the seatpost, bars, frame, and accessories all for around £550 delivered, it's hard to fault.
Ride Feel: The ride feel is subjective, but it feels planted and solid. I'm using Elite Edge 65mm wheels. While it’s not the quickest to get up to speed, it cruises better than my old SuperSix Evo. It’s a budget build, so there’s no power meter, but it seems quicker, possibly due to my extra effort to prove the aero benefits.
Attention-Grabbing: It turns heads and I’ve been able to outpace riders on bikes that cost five times as much.
General Comments
Handlebar: The handlebar is plenty stiff. Someone in the comments mentioned theirs was flexy, but I haven't experienced that.
Headset and Seatpost: I didn’t have any issues with the headset or seatpost slipping.
Cons
Cable Routing: The cable routing wasn’t easy. The handlebar has many sharp edges and limited space, making it a real challenge to get right.
Fork and Rear Triangle: The fork and rear triangle need to be stiffer. I don’t know if Hygge did this to help with compliance, but it’s not very confidence-inspiring. Adding some more carbon in these areas, even for the sake of 100g, would be beneficial.
Lack of EPS Molding: The down tube and top tube are pretty creased, although the headtube isn’t too bad. EPS molding would be a nice touch.
The total cost for the build was around £1250. The Elite wheels took 65 days to arrive, but I took advantage of Choice Day and got them for £365 delivered. The R9 shifters, which were £35, work well with Ultegra 8100. The only downside is the thumb shifters, which make it impossible to shift on the drops.
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Value for Money: The bike offers incredible value for money. With the seatpost, bars, frame, and accessories all for around £550 delivered, it's hard to fault.
The total cost for the build was around £1250.
The Elite wheels took 65 days to arrive, but I took advantage of Choice Day and got them for £365 delivered.
The R9 shifters, which were £35, work well with Ultegra 8100. The only downside is the thumb shifters, which make it impossible to shift on the drops.
Impressive, it's a lot of bike for that money. Well done.
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3000 km update.
I have no issues with frame stiffness, a flexy handlebar with 30mm Grand Prix 5000 S TR feels very good, especially on a bumps. I've hit some potholes and poorly constructed storm drains (well below the asphalt level) at high speed without any damage to the rims, handlebar, or frame, only get pain in my palms and wrists.
The headset is also holding up well, with no play or marks on the steerer tube. The seatpost, tightened to 5 Nm, hasn't slipped at all.
As for the ZTTO hybrid brakes, well, they work. They're slightly better than my old rim brakes with SwissStop FlashPro Yellow King and Elite ENT wheels. However i can't recommend them. The force that needs to be applied to the brake lever to stop almost the same as on the rim brakes, and pistons doesn't work evenly. One piston barely moves, and there's some flex in the lever arm that pushes the hydraulic cylinder. In my opinion, mechanical calipers like Avid BB5 or BB7 would be a better choice.
The brakes also squeal at low speeds. I suspect this is due to the cheap pads (only $4 for two pairs). I've tried cleaning the rotors and pads, but the squealing persists. As a result, I've ordered Ashima ceramic pads, hoping they'll solve the problem.
I swapped the crankset to a Shimano 105 because the ZTTO BB for a 30mm spindle started clicking after 1,000 km. Since I already had a Shimano BB and cranks, I decided to save money by not buying a new BB for the 30mm spindle. To shave off some weight, I replaced the 105 chainrings and bolts with Ultegra ones. This brought the total crankset weight down from 750g to 698g. Interestingly, the 105 and Ultegra cranks without chainrings weigh the same.
Finally, I experienced some clicking noises from the rear axle. This happened when I switched the bike back and forth between a trainer and the rear wheel without properly cleaning the dropouts. Thankfully, a thorough cleaning solved the issue. I'm unsure if this is normal or not, as I never encountered it with quick-release skewers.
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Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.
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Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.
No, I don't think internal routing significantly affects braking performance. As long as the pads haven't touched the disc, there's minimal resistance in the system. I use Jagwire KEB-SL brake housings. While they're definitely a pain to route due to their stiffness, they perform well overall.
That being said, these hydraulic disc brakes with internal routing feel similar to rim brakes, but with much more bite. With my old rim brakes on carbon rims, it was difficult to stop effectively on steep downhills (-15% grade). I could feel the pads smearing on the rim, and applying more pressure on the lever wouldn't increase braking power beyond a certain point. This isn't an issue with the disc brakes.
I suspect the ZTTO caliper's lever arm isn't very stiff. I can see some movement in the arm when I squeeze the brake lever after the pads make full contact with the rotor.
Shifting also works flawlessly. In fact, I'd say the front derailleur performs even better than on my previous bike with the same groupset but semi-internal routing. This improvement is likely due to the full-length housing.
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Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.
My advise: just get a second had R8000 disc groupset and forget about mechanical disc brakes. They are not worth the hassle...
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Yeah, last year I was using sensah with iiipro mechanical with keb SL housing. This year I'm on L-TWOO hydraulic brakes. They feel so much nicer. They both work, but hydraulic feels so much nicer.
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I’ve been thinking about ordering this frame for a bit, and have the decided to go and do so. However, next to ordering the frame on AliExpress, Hygge also has their own website. I was wondering if someone has any experience with ordering directly from Hygge?
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AliExpress has a sale from tomorrow. Stuff will drop in price including the model s frameset and you should get some discounts codes on the launch page...ie £65 off a £400 spend ( might be local sensitive)
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I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"
I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.
Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017) with this frame ?
PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.
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I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"
I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.
Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017) with this frame ?
PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.
Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.
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I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"
I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.
Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017) with this frame ?
PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.
You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.
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You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.
Well there are still general rules that a profiled shape will be more effecient than a straigh surface. F1 can't be compared since they are made to create downforce
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Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.
Yes great help, thank you very much. your bike looks stunning
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It's been a while since I received the frame but was only able to build the bike 3 weeks ago since I was waiting for the Ultegra DI2 upgrade kit to become available as I did not want to buy a complete groupset and end up with a BB and crankset that I will not use (crank length 172.5- I use 170 and PF BB). Wheelset is Elitewheels 65mm.
The build was super easy as am experienced building and servicing bikes and every part fits easily and how it's supposed to be.
To address the main issues discussed in this forum, seat post slipping and headset play, I have to say that I did not experience any seatpost slipping, which is mainly due to upgraded seatpost clamp with horizontal striations that lock the grippy part of the seatpost very well, and the mandatory use of carbon paste. As for the headset play, I did some mods to the C-ring. These consist of applying aluminium tape on top of the C-ring to increase the thickness by 0.3 mm (the same can be done with microspacer but I did not have any, so tape it is) and also 3 layers on the inside where the C-ring interfaces the steerer tube. I think that the C-ring needs to be 8,2mm total thickness (stock is 7,9) to avoid headset cover rubbing on the frame. If I did not add the tape, it would have rubbed after torquing down the top cap to 2.5-3 Nm. Another thig is to use carbon assembly paste on stem/steerer interface. After the initial ride the play returned but I did not torque enough initially (only finger tight to take up the slack, which is not enough obviously). Another thing that I done is also applied thread locker to the nut part of the stem bolts since there was none there and the bolts were rattling themselves loose (torqued to 6Nm only to become finger tight) after only one ride. After the mods of the C ring and top cap tightening and thread locker to the stem nuts there is no more play after 500 km with deliberate riding over cracked roads.
The supplied garmin mount acts as a leaf spring vibrating the hell out of everything attached to it. So far it has costed me a GPS unit (IGP sport, perfectly fine) which vibrated to disintegration, and yesterday my light had shorted out due to the vibrations. Use aluminium mount which may be sturdier than this thing.
The ride feel, as mentioned by other riders is subjective, but compared to my Cube Agree GTC Pro is waaaayyyy better and the bike is stiffer, a lot more responsive, rails corners, fits me a lot better and added 2-3 kmh to my average speeds instantly. Cruising at 45 km/h on the flats seems effortless or at least a lot easier to maintain. Thanks to @TidyDinosaur for advising me on sizing - this thing fits me like a glove (175.5cm 82 cm inseam and went with size S) with full stack of spacers to begin with but as I become more familiar with the bike I will remove 1cm of stack.
Total cost of this project 2500 eur. Can't beat that with what you get for this price compared to western brands.
P.S. for some reason I am unable to post with attached picture. I was only able to add this post as a quick reply. Any ideas of what might be the issue?
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I ordered and customised this compression ring on Aliexpress. The headset is now 100% free of play (without any torque struggles, just as it's meant to be and ever was on any bike). It seems to be the Specialized design. I hope that it is also a bit gentler for the steerer tube.
referring to the video by henrychungfitness:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805803796644.html
I had to widen the two openings a little so that the Shimano brake cables would fit through.
I cut off the outer plastic ring on the headset cap so that it doesn't rub on the frame.
Well i have received this compression ring. However i'm having trouble making the holes bigger to pass the hydraulic cables. Also I noticed you made the headset cover a bit shorter with just a knife. However, the the headset cover i received is aluminum so I think it'll be much more difficult :/
I will probably try with the aluminum tape method now
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You can use saw drill bit, it will make easy work of the aluminium. As for the headset cover cutting, you would still need to use microspacers as the SL7 ring is thinner/sits lower than the one that is supplied with the frame and do NOT modify the headset cover. Get 0.3mm microspacers as they are dirt cheap on Alix and use the stock C ring.
Aluminium tape is not a permanent solution but it works for me so far.
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The beautiful backdrop is Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
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It's been a while since I received the frame but was only able to build the bike 3 weeks ago since I was waiting for the Ultegra DI2 upgrade kit to become available as I did not want to buy a complete groupset and end up with a BB and crankset that I will not use (crank length 172.5- I use 170 and PF BB). Wheelset is Elitewheels 65mm.
The build was super easy as am experienced building and servicing bikes and every part fits easily and how it's supposed to be.
To address the main issues discussed in this forum, seat post slipping and headset play, I have to say that I did not experience any seatpost slipping, which is mainly due to upgraded seatpost clamp with horizontal striations that lock the grippy part of the seatpost very well, and the mandatory use of carbon paste. As for the headset play, I did some mods to the C-ring. These consist of applying aluminium tape on top of the C-ring to increase the thickness by 0.3 mm (the same can be done with microspacer but I did not have any, so tape it is) and also 3 layers on the inside where the C-ring interfaces the steerer tube. I think that the C-ring needs to be 8,2mm total thickness (stock is 7,9) to avoid headset cover rubbing on the frame. If I did not add the tape, it would have rubbed after torquing down the top cap to 2.5-3 Nm. Another thig is to use carbon assembly paste on stem/steerer interface. After the initial ride the play returned but I did not torque enough initially (only finger tight to take up the slack, which is not enough obviously). Another thing that I done is also applied thread locker to the nut part of the stem bolts since there was none there and the bolts were rattling themselves loose (torqued to 6Nm only to become finger tight) after only one ride. After the mods of the C ring and top cap tightening and thread locker to the stem nuts there is no more play after 500 km with deliberate riding over cracked roads.
The supplied garmin mount acts as a leaf spring vibrating the hell out of everything attached to it. So far it has costed me a GPS unit (IGP sport, perfectly fine) which vibrated to disintegration, and yesterday my light had shorted out due to the vibrations. Use aluminium mount which may be sturdier than this thing.
The ride feel, as mentioned by other riders is subjective, but compared to my Cube Agree GTC Pro is waaaayyyy better and the bike is stiffer, a lot more responsive, rails corners, fits me a lot better and added 2-3 kmh to my average speeds instantly. Cruising at 45 km/h on the flats seems effortless or at least a lot easier to maintain. Thanks to @TidyDinosaur for advising me on sizing - this thing fits me like a glove (175.5cm 82 cm inseam and went with size S) with full stack of spacers to begin with but as I become more familiar with the bike I will remove 1cm of stack.
Total cost of this project 2500 eur. Can't beat that with what you get for this price compared to western brands.
P.S. for some reason I am unable to post with attached picture. I was only able to add this post as a quick reply. Any ideas of what might be the issue?
What size of handlbar did you get?
I'm the same height as you so since I am ordrering the frame in same size as you I would be happy to know
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I got the 380 x 100 mm. I have the saddle pushed forward where I have around 1,5cm - 2cm (or where the 1 mark on the Ryet saddle is met by the rear of the saddle clamp) left until there is no more rail in the back. Fits me very well. I do not consider myself super flexible, but I am flexible enough to keep an aero hood position for a very long time with no discomfort.
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Does anyone know how to contact hygge-bikes.com ?
I want to purchase model s with integrated 40mm bars, extra hanger and hardware to mount traditional (not integrated) handle bar -so I can try different stem lenghts.
For my location hygge-bikes.com is cheaper than aliexpress but no one seems to monitor their chat function and I can't find any email....
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Have you tried WhatsApp : +86 186 7699 3367 ?
If give a number is not allowed, let me know.
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You can use saw drill bit, it will make easy work of the aluminium. As for the headset cover cutting, you would still need to use microspacers as the SL7 ring is thinner/sits lower than the one that is supplied with the frame and do NOT modify the headset cover. Get 0.3mm microspacers as they are dirt cheap on Alix and use the stock C ring.
Aluminium tape is not a permanent solution but it works for me so far.
Thanks RoadieMKD.
0.3mm spacer makes sense on top of the C-ring makes sense to adjust the thickness, however you also mentioned that you added 3 layers where it interfaces with the steerer tube. What will be your permanent solution for that one if you have one already?
Thanks
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Thanks RoadieMKD.
0.3mm spacer makes sense on top of the C-ring makes sense to adjust the thickness, however you also mentioned that you added 3 layers where it interfaces with the steerer tube. What will be your permanent solution for that one if you have one already?
Thanks
For the interface I would use 0.1mm shim steel and wrap it around the steerer similarly as the SL7 style ring (to leave a small gap at the back) and this will also protect the steerer from the C ring (the ring has lips on top and bottom from the inside, and these need to be sanded down lightly). For now, as everything works with my mods on the ring, I do not plan to do anything, but if, knock on wood, the play returns these will be my go-to solutions.
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So I want to build a bike with hygge model s (disc) frame, 45x30mm carbon rims and shimano 105 di2.
But I know very little about cranks and bottom brackets. So I'm hoping someone could tell me what I need to purchase to fit 105 di2 on the frame?
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So I want to build a bike with hygge model s (disc) frame, 45x30mm carbon rims and shimano 105 di2.
But I know very little about cranks and bottom brackets. So I'm hoping someone could tell me what I need to purchase to fit 105 di2 on the frame?
You would need BSA (threaded) bottom bracket to fit the cranks. If you are purchasing complete groupset, search for the BSA bottom bracket version.
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So I want to build a bike with hygge model s (disc) frame, 45x30mm carbon rims and shimano 105 di2.
But I know very little about cranks and bottom brackets. So I'm hoping someone could tell me what I need to purchase to fit 105 di2 on the frame?
You can get the Shimano Ultegra Bottom Bracket for like 20$ USD on aliexpress if you want to stick with shimano everything. You will also need the tool to be able to install it to the frame. You can buy an off brand tool as it doesn't matter too much, unless you're planning to building multiple bikes, no need to splurge on an expensive one
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You would need BSA (threaded) bottom bracket to fit the cranks. If you are purchasing complete groupset, search for the BSA bottom bracket version.
Does shimano offer 105 di2 with bsa bb?
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You can get the Shimano Ultegra Bottom Bracket for like 20$ USD on aliexpress if you want to stick with shimano everything. You will also need the tool to be able to install it to the frame. You can buy an off brand tool as it doesn't matter too much, unless you're planning to building multiple bikes, no need to splurge on an expensive one
Thank you.
Would shimano SM-BBR60 fit frame and groupset?
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Thank you.
Would shimano SM-BBR60 fit frame and groupset?
Yes.
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Does shimano offer 105 di2 with bsa bb?
Yes, this one : SMBBR60.
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I would like to run 28mm gp 5000 clincher tires. My rims are 21mm internal so I guess the actual measured tire width should be about 30-31mm. Would 30-31mm tire fit a hygge disc frame in size L ?
The complete 105 di2 groupset I want includes 160mm rotors (front&rear) + 1pcs 140/160mm flat mount adapter.
Have anyone successfully mounted 160 rotors on this frame?
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I would like to run 28mm gp 5000 clincher tires. My rims are 21mm internal so I guess the actual measured tire width should be about 30-31mm. Would 30-31mm tire fit a hygge disc frame in size L ?
The complete 105 di2 groupset I want includes 160mm rotors (front&rear) + 1pcs 140/160mm flat mount adapter.
Have anyone successfully mounted 160 rotors on this frame?
I ran 28 mm GP 4 seasons but my external rim was 28 mm (or 29 mm).
Yes for 160 for the front. I didn't try for the rear.
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I would like to run 28mm gp 5000 clincher tires. My rims are 21mm internal so I guess the actual measured tire width should be about 30-31mm. Would 30-31mm tire fit a hygge disc frame in size L ?
The complete 105 di2 groupset I want includes 160mm rotors (front&rear) + 1pcs 140/160mm flat mount adapter.
Have anyone successfully mounted 160 rotors on this frame?
Those tires will not be a problem
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I ran 28 mm GP 4 seasons but my external rim was 28 mm (or 29 mm).
Yes for 160 for the front. I didn't try for the rear.
Did you use an adapter to mount 160mm rotor in front?
I'm sorry if this a dumb question, but I never had a bike with disc brakes.
Im guessing I would need two adaptors for 160mm front and rear, but I know some frames does not have sufficient space to use 160mm adapter in the rear. So I'm a little worried if this would be an issue on the hygge frame.
I wouldn't mind 140mm rear rotor -its just that the 2x160mm is the cheapest complete di2 groupset I can find And with the recent price increase from 1000 to 1100euro di2 already cost a bit more than I planned for my budget china build...
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Did you use an adapter to mount 160mm rotor in front?
I'm sorry if this a dumb question, but I never had a bike with disc brakes.
Im guessing I would need two adaptors for 160mm front and rear, but I know some frames does not have sufficient space to use 160mm adapter in the rear. So I'm a little worried if this would be an issue on the hygge frame.
I wouldn't mind 140mm rear rotor -its just that the 2x160mm is the cheapest complete di2 groupset I can find And with the recent price increase from 1000 to 1100euro di2 already cost a bit more than I planned for my budget china build...
If you have the Shimano 105 Di2 groupset, you don't need an adaptator. You have to flip the support of the caliper (see pictures).
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If you have the Shimano 105 Di2 groupset, you don't need an adaptator. You have to flip the support of the caliper (see pictures).
That is very useful information. Thank you.
The 105 di2 160/160mm groupset I look at includes BR-R7170 calipers. I assume the included 140/160mm "adapter" is actually the support. But the parts list only show 1xFlat-Mount Adapter 140mm/160mm.
So do I need 2xmount adaptors?
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Hello, I'm new at this topic. I was reading it till first page and finally ordered Hygge BOB frameset (L) + elite wheels ent-disc 2.0.
Finnaly it will be mixed with 105 di2 groupset and cl800 rotors. If my weight is around 100kg should i mount 160/140mm or 160/160?
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Those tires will not be a problem
On second thought my 45x30mm wheels is probably not 21 but 23mm internal width.
But apparently gp5000 tires only inflate to nominal width when mounted on wide rims. So 28mm gp5k on 23mm rim should fit the hygge frame, Right?
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Hello, I'm new at this topic. I was reading it till first page and finally ordered Hygge BOB frameset (L) + elite wheels ent-disc 2.0.
Finnaly it will be mixed with 105 di2 groupset and cl800 rotors. If my weight is around 100kg should i mount 160/140mm or 160/160?
One could argue 160/160 for descending mountains. But im sure 160/140 is perfectly fine.
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On second thought my 45x30mm wheels is probably not 21 but 23mm internal width.
But apparently gp5000 tires only inflate to nominal width when mounted on wide rims. So 28mm gp5k on 23mm rim should fit the hygge frame, Right?
Yes, mine are 30,5mm and there is enough space.
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That is very useful information. Thank you.
The 105 di2 160/160mm groupset I look at includes BR-R7170 calipers. I assume the included 140/160mm "adapter" is actually the support. But the parts list only show 1xFlat-Mount Adapter 140mm/160mm.
So do I need 2xmount adaptors?
The rear caliper is screwed directly on my frame without adapter. I don't know if you can install one, sorry.
Edit : Apparently yes :
http://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Adapter-Flat-Mount-20-160-mm-rear
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Yes, mine are 30,5mm and there is enough space.
Im a bit curious what tire model+size and rim width you measured at 30,5mm?
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The rear caliper is screwed directly on my frame without adapter. I don't know if you can install one, sorry.
Edit : Apparently yes :
http://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Adapter-Flat-Mount-20-160-mm-rear
So if I get a 140mm disc I can mount the rear BR-R7170 directly on the frame?
And use the extra 160mm as replacement when the front disc needs replacement...
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Im a bit curious what tire model+size and rim width you measured at 30,5mm?
I have the vittoria corsa n.ext tlr on 24mm internal rims.
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So if I get a 140mm disc I can mount the rear BR-R7170 directly on the frame?
And use the extra 160mm as replacement when the front disc needs replacement...
Correct.
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I have 30mm Grand Prix 5000 S TR on 26mm internal hooked rims, they measure as 32.5mm wide and 27.2 high. There's enough side clearance in the fork (around 6.5-7mm), but tire height is the main limitation with only 4mm of free space. The situation is reversed with the frame. Even with the same tires and wheels, there's only about 4.5mm of side clearance and over 8mm of height clearance.
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I have 30mm Grand Prix 5000 S TR on 26mm internal hooked rims, they measure as 32.5mm wide and 27.2 high. There's enough side clearance in the fork (around 6.5-7mm), but tire height is the main limitation with only 4mm of free space. The situation is reversed with the frame. Even with the same tires and wheels, there's only about 4.5mm of side clearance and over 8mm of height clearance.
Yeah, it's too bad they did not make the fork a little higher on the inside to give a little more clearance.
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How long it usually takes from purchase to shipment by seller? Does anyone bought frameset at the middle/end of june?
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How long it usually takes from purchase to shipment by seller? Does anyone bought frameset at the middle/end of june?
My frame was sent in 2 days, but I ordered it on the 11.11 sale.
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My frame was sent in 2 days, but I ordered it on the 11.11 sale.
Mine is still im manufacture. Gotninfo that they upgrade eps mould so inside the frame will be much smoother. Bought 22.06 and still waiting roll shipment.
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So the frame use eps tech?
Very tempting... Have the issue with play in the front fork been solved?
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So I read the thread and still a bit confused about the play in the fork. What are the dimensions of spacer beside the thickness of 0.3 mm? Are there any specific spacers to buy?
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Does someone is waiting for shipping hygge frame from lasy sale 17-23.06?
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Hi all. I received my frame last week and am now trying to build it. I am finding it impossible to route the rear Di2 wire through from the hole on the chainstay across into the bottom bracket. There seems to be some kind of blockage half way through the chainstay. I tried to see if something more rigid would pass and not even regular shifter cable housing could get beyond a certain point. Has anyone else had this issue? Thank you...
EDIT: okay I managed it in the end with a magnetic routing guide. It took a lot longer than I was expecting...
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Hello everyone,
I received my frames a few days ago but the rear derailleur hanger seems to be missing from the box, does anyone knows what hanger I should get for this frame ?
Also I've seen some cheaper ceramic bottom bracket on aliexpress rather than the crazy expensive ceramspeed ceramic bottom bracket. I wondered if any of you ever had an experience with these aliexpress ceramic bearing bottom bracket?
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I've just assembled mine, it's the nicest Chinese frame I've had. Previously had a 3T Exporo clone and Longteng LTK118.
No major issues with the build or running the cables.
No rear mech hanger in the box but they sent one out quickly.
Size M, haven't cut down the steerer yet. I'm 181cm with a 74cm BB to saddle height and relatively short legs. 85cm inseam. All my previous bikes are 56cm and this looks a good fit.
I got the Hygge Shun wheels too, in F50 R60mm. The freehub is offensivley loud if thats your thing!
Everything from Aliexpress except the 28mm GP5000s and sealant.
Ultegra DI2 shifting and brakes.
XT rotors
Leese carbon cranks 52-36. The chainline is a bit funky and I haven't worked this out yet. As a workaround I've spaced out the FD mount with washers.
Zitto 11-32 cassette
Cheapo saddle.
7.4kg as is with the Assiomas.
Quick test ride today as I'm getting over flu - feels great, not too harsh at all, low 60s psi will do that!
Very impressed so far, paint is really nice.
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I've just assembled mine, it's the nicest Chinese frame I've had. Previously had a 3T Exporo clone and Longteng LTK118.
No major issues with the build or running the cables.
No rear mech hanger in the box but they sent one out quickly.
Size M, haven't cut down the steerer yet. I'm 181cm with a 74cm BB to saddle height and relatively short legs. 85cm inseam. All my previous bikes are 56cm and this looks a good fit.
I got the Hygge Shun wheels too, in F50 R60mm. The freehub is offensivley loud if thats your thing!
Everything from Aliexpress except the 28mm GP5000s and sealant.
Ultegra DI2 shifting and brakes.
XT rotors
Leese carbon cranks 52-36. The chainline is a bit funky and I haven't worked this out yet. As a workaround I've spaced out the FD mount with washers.
Zitto 11-32 cassette
Cheapo saddle.
7.4kg as is with the Assiomas.
Quick test ride today as I'm getting over flu - feels great, not too harsh at all, low 60s psi will do that!
Very impressed so far, paint is really nice.
Did you got Ultegra Di2 from Ali aswell? :)
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Yes, it was around $1900 AUD for shifters, callipers, front and rear mechs, battery, cables. I got the chain locally to avoid fakes.
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Had a longer ride today. It's fast, of course that may be the lower position so I can get more out of the wind.
My last bike was a Madone 9, the last rim brake one. Compared to that this has less aggressive handling, the Madone was razor sharp. When I'm over flu I'll start sticking some power down and see how that feels.
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Had a longer ride today. It's fast, of course that may be the lower position so I can get more out of the wind.
My last bike was a Madone 9, the last rim brake one. Compared to that this has less aggressive handling, the Madone was razor sharp. When I'm over flu I'll start sticking some power down and see how that feels.
When did you bought frameset, how long have you waited?
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It wasn't long.
Ordered 21 June
Arrived 4th July
To Australia
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This is almost the final build. The cockpit is from Farsports, 32mm Continental 5000 tires (to be changed to Veloflex). The weight without bottles, computer, and tool bag is exactly 7 kilos (with all mounts) in size M. I am satisfied with almost everything: the play in the steering disappeared after installing Farsports spacers, but the front rotor rubs a bit during sprints.
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This is almost the final build. The cockpit is from Farsports, 32mm Continental 5000 tires (to be changed to Veloflex). The weight without bottles, computer, and tool bag is exactly 7 kilos (with all mounts) in size M. I am satisfied with almost everything: the play in the steering disappeared after installing Farsports spacers, but the front rotor rubs a bit during sprints.
Nice build. If you don't mind me asking, what is the sticker on the seat tube? Looks like UCI approved sticker location. Are the frames now UCI legal? Not that it matters to me but just curious. I know that their wheels are UCI approved but not the frames. Maybe that has changed.
Thanks!
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I'm gonna set up my hygge L with:
-Ultegra di2 8170 groupset,
-Elitewheels ent 2.0 disc,
- lexon carbon saddle,
-vittoria rubino/continental gp 5000 28/30c
-105 rd7000 pedals.
Should be around 7,2kg but... still waiting for frameset shipment..
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Quick question for anyone who already build up his bike with di2: is there any mounting point for the di2 connection box or is it the barend once again?
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Quick question for anyone who already build up his bike with di2: is there any mounting point for the di2 connection box or is it the barend once again?
Connection box is going forever already. Everything is in rear derailleur.
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If you mean 11s DI2 there is no mounting on the frame downtube.
The integrated handlebars do have a hole at the end for the wiring for bar end placing of junction box.
12s DI2 is all in the rear derailleur.
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Yep - I was referring to the 11sp Di2. Barend it is then. I had the groupset for rim braking laying around for ages and figured I will build up a rim brake bike and landed here and ended up with the Model S.
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Nice build. If you don't mind me asking, what is the sticker on the seat tube? Looks like UCI approved sticker location. Are the frames now UCI legal? Not that it matters to me but just curious. I know that their wheels are UCI approved but not the frames. Maybe that has changed.
Thanks!
This is a joke UCI Illigal sticker. Already 6.76kg, work ahead to change the crank.
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This is almost the final build. The cockpit is from Farsports, 32mm Continental 5000 tires (to be changed to Veloflex). The weight without bottles, computer, and tool bag is exactly 7 kilos (with all mounts) in size M. I am satisfied with almost everything: the play in the steering disappeared after installing Farsports spacers, but the front rotor rubs a bit during sprints.
I'm interested in getting this frame, but i would really like to run my 32mm Contis S TR tubeless. My rims are 21mm internal. What is your setup and do you think there is enough room to comfortably run 32mm tires?
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I'm interested in getting this frame, but i would really like to run my 32mm Contis S TR tubeless. My rims are 21mm internal. What is your setup and do you think there is enough room to comfortably run 32mm tires?
Yes, there is even a small mud gap there.
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It wasn't long.
Ordered 21 June
Arrived 4th July
To Australia
:O
My Yoeleo, I ordered on may23. I still do not have it. That is really fast. And yoeleo brands itself like a big player.
Their customer service stinks
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This is a joke UCI Illigal sticker. Already 6.76kg, work ahead to change the crank.
Impressive weight, or lack thereof to say the least :D. Mine is size S, same drivetrain (red22 crankset DI2 12 speed) 65mm Edge wheels (1540 gr) 150gr saddle and I am tipping the scales at 7.45kg ready to ride, no bottles and no GPS. Would not change the wheels, but even if I did, can't see where I can lose 700 gr. That is insane. Very well done!!!
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Mine is 6975 Grams including 2 Fidlock Bottle Mounts, 1 Wahoo Mount and 2 Pedals (without Bottles, Light and Wahoo)
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Mine is 6975 Grams including 2 Fidlock Bottle Mounts, 1 Wahoo Mount and 2 Pedals (without Bottles, Light and Wahoo)
I see that you have Avian Canary integrated bar and stem. What adapter did you use to match the frame?
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I see that you have Avian Canary integrated bar and stem. What adapter did you use to match the frame?
I have used the Standard OD1 Version with no Frame specific Adapter/Spacer Set. And I use the FSA Superlight M110R Headset Bearings.
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@laktattausch what about matte paint, is it easy to scratch or the rest of drink/sweat is super visible on it?
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@laktattausch what about matte paint, is it easy to scratch or the rest of drink/sweat is super visible on it?
Yes, sure this is visible on a matte paint but I clean up my bike after every ride. The glossy decals are very fragile and scratchable and you have to be careful. I like the look of the black/glossy finish especially in combination with the glossy wheelset, but if I could choose again I would take another color which is not too sensitive.
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Small update from me… now 5100km into this frame and still hasn’t let me down at all, very happy with everything. Sadly I popped a spoke on the front Hygge rim, I got it fixed but the brakes squealed/vibrated when braking so I decided to replace the rims to something nicer, more up to date with current specs
Now rocking Magene Exar Ultra dark, so far so good.
Also had chance to weigh it, 7.8KG without pedals (L frame)
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@wrighty
how long been you waiting for delivery and when you made a purchase?
By the way, is anyone waiting for shipping of their hygge frameset?
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Yes, sure this is visible on a matte paint but I clean up my bike after every ride. The glossy decals are very fragile and scratchable and you have to be careful. I like the look of the black/glossy finish especially in combination with the glossy wheelset, but if I could choose again I would take another color which is not too sensitive.
I have the same frame and I must say the paint holds up very well and is easy to clean. The matte is still a clearcoat and not some matte black paint like my Carbonda in the standard black color.
And yes, the decals on the matte is fragile. I think it's a kind of water transfer or so and they are on top of the matte paint.
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Hi Everyone,
I have a bicycle with a Model S frame from Hygge. In the past few months, three times now the headset spacer has slightly opened up. I'm not sure what could be causing this, but I think it happens when I stand up on the bike to pedal harder.
I wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced this issue. Also, I'm considering buying new spacers, but I'm not sure which ones to get. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Hi Everyone,
I have a bicycle with a Model S frame from Hygge. In the past few months, three times now the headset spacer has slightly opened up. I'm not sure what could be causing this, but I think it happens when I stand up on the bike to pedal harder.
I wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced this issue. Also, I'm considering buying new spacers, but I'm not sure which ones to get. Any advice would be appreciated.
I had this happen a few times in the beginning, but is is stable now.
You can get the spacers in metal on Ali.
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I had this happen a few times in the beginning, but is is stable now.
You can get the spacers in metal on Ali.
great, any link would be appreciated
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Working on a 3d printed seatpost mount for my Garmin Varia
(https://i.imgur.com/9ksadWT.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rsx8Ueu.jpeg)
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I had this happen a few times in the beginning, but is is stable now.
You can get the spacers in metal on Ali.
Whereabouts? I've been looking for better spacers for the Kocevlo bars as I keep having the same issue.
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Whereabouts? I've been looking for better spacers for the Kocevlo bars as I keep having the same issue.
It seems it was the spacer set that was included with the handlebars that Hygge sent me as a warranty-replacement. So I don't know if you can buy it separate... Maybe contact Hygge or other sellers of the handlebar to see if they have metal spacer sets?
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Hi everyone, I'm currently building the hygge up and I noticed an there are no cable stoppers with the frame.
I've seen many builds on this topic but none of them mention cable stoppers.
Did you go without it or found some that were fitting to the frame ? If so I would be glad to know where you got them
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Hi everyone, I'm currently building the hygge up and I noticed an there are no cable stoppers with the frame.
I've seen many builds on this topic but none of them mention cable stoppers.
Did you go without it or found some that were fitting to the frame ? If so I would be glad to know where you got them
I asked Hygge to include grommets before shopping.
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Does someone still waiting for frame? 22 june and still not shipped. Grommets should be included. Does contact with hygge is good?
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Does someone still waiting for frame? 22 june and still not shipped. Grommets should be included. Does contact with hygge is good?
Have you bought on Aliexpress or their website ? What did they say when you contacted them ?
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Why everybody buy the frame from Hygge and not directly from Winow sports ?
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Why everybody buy the frame from Hygge and not directly from Winow sports ?
Paintjob :)
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Paintjob :)
I see :).
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I finished my build today (RIM Version, Ultegra Di2 11 Speed, Chameloen color).
These are my observations:
- I had no DI2 grommets in the package
- ride feel is very good; paired up the bike with Giant SL 1 55mm on 25mm tyres
- build was straight forward for the most part
PROS
- ride feel
- paint job is good
- handlebars are very nice looking and offer a good feel for the bike (I used a Deda 70mm expander with the handlebar- that should be secure and sound)
CONS
- DI2 hole for the RD is aweful; I had to drill out the hole (someone did the same - thanks for the tip here in the forum/ I went crazy while trying to fit he cable)
- no torque values anywhere aside from the handlebars (more or less a guessing game)
And edit tells me: I need to 3d print something fot the DI2 battery since it's "secured" by bubble wrap atm.
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Have you bought on Aliexpress or their website ? What did they say when you contacted them ?
Aliexpress, contacted and they said, the delay is because of eps mold upgrade.
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Aliexpress, contacted and they said, the delay is because of eps mold upgrade.
It seems a lot of sizes are not available for the moment,so that could be true...
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It seems a lot of sizes are not available for the moment,so that could be true...
Winow Sports told me that the frame was recently upgraded to EPS technology.
I wish someone can send a picture of the inside of the frame (EPS).
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Should it looks like at video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWiGZavgqK8&t=1s
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Should it looks like at video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWiGZavgqK8&t=1s
This frame was the first mold not using EPS. If Hygge sends him a new frame, I think because He only makes a video. A random buyer would not have a new frame (just a supposition)
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- DI2 hole for the RD is aweful; I had to drill out the hole (someone did the same - thanks for the tip here in the forum/ I went crazy while trying to fit he cable)
Guess that was me mentioning that - great I could help.
And edit tells me: I need to 3d print something fot the DI2 battery since it's "secured" by bubble wrap atm.
I think also used bubble wrap and it didn’t work for long. Then switched to (sticky) bartape which works perfectly!
Btw frame has now more than 4000km on it and I am still very happy with it.
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Oh this shattered my hopes to build one using the Hygge Frame;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWiGZavgqK8
So apparently this guy had snapped his seat stays when he accidentally unclipped and have hit that part.
is the EPS Mould Update addressing this issue?
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Btw frame has now more than 4000km on it and I am still very happy with it.
I also have 4000km on the frame now and no complaints anymore. All the little kinks have been solved with some trial and error. Paint stays great.
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Oh this shattered my hopes to build one using the Hygge Frame;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWiGZavgqK8
So apparently this guy had snapped his seat stays when he accidentally unclipped and have hit that part.
is the EPS Mould Update addressing this issue?
Not exactly. What I understood that he was trying to clip in during pushing second pedal down and his heel blocked between and snapped the seat stay.
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Hi all,
I have just dipped my toes early this week into the world of the Chinese bike world. I am still very much a noob when it comes to biking. Sorry if what I am about to ask is a very stupid question.
Backstory, is during Covid I bought my first Allez E5 2019. And sold it a couple years after as I had to move cities. I now ride a 2020 Specialized Allez Sprint.
Fork: Tarmac SL6 FACT carbon
Seatpost: Venge Aero carbon
Bars: Enve Aero carbon
Brakes: 105 hydraulic disc
Drivetrain: 105 2x11
More info on frameset here: https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/allez-sprint-disc-frameset/p/171321?color=264799-171321
Are all my parts interchangeable if I get something like the Hygge Model S frame and move everything over? I plan on buying only new Carbon wheels and better tires. Ideally, if I can keep the seatpost, bars, brakes and drive train that would be nice.
Thanks.
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Hi all,
I have just dipped my toes early this week into the world of the Chinese bike world. I am still very much a noob when it comes to biking. Sorry if what I am about to ask is a very stupid question.
Backstory, is during Covid I bought my first Allez E5 2019. And sold it a couple years after as I had to move cities. I now ride a 2020 Specialized Allez Sprint.
Fork: Tarmac SL6 FACT carbon
Seatpost: Venge Aero carbon
Bars: Enve Aero carbon
Brakes: 105 hydraulic disc
Drivetrain: 105 2x11
More info on frameset here: https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/allez-sprint-disc-frameset/p/171321?color=264799-171321
Are all my parts interchangeable if I get something like the Hygge Model S frame and move everything over? I plan on buying only new Carbon wheels and better tires. Ideally, if I can keep the seatpost, bars, brakes and drive train that would be nice.
Thanks.
I'd say only brakes, drivetrain and crankset. Seat post in propietary. Not sure about fork and handlebars
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I'd say only brakes, drivetrain and crankset. Seat post in propietary. Not sure about fork and handlebars
Fork probably won't work and handlebars only if you can find a correct adapter.
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I'm planning to purchase my first direct from China frame to build up over the winter as a race bike. I'm leaning towards a Model S with EPS molding. I'm just a little unclear on the sizing an geometry of this frame. Some measurements look like they are taken from different points than Trek uses.
Is anyone able to comment on what size would be the closest to a Size 56 2023 Emonda SLR? I appreciate the help and info available on this site.
It looks like the Size 52M is 1.5mm shorter in reach and 7mm higher in stack. I'm currently riding with 10mm of spacers on my Emonda, it seems like this size would work well with less spacers. I'm 183cm tall with an inseam of about 31.
Anyone else roughly my size care to share what size Model S they are riding and what the fit is like?
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I'm planning to purchase my first direct from China frame to build up over the winter as a race bike. I'm leaning towards a Model S with EPS molding. I'm just a little unclear on the sizing an geometry of this frame. Some measurements look like they are taken from different points than Trek uses.
Is anyone able to comment on what size would be the closest to a Size 56 2023 Emonda SLR? I appreciate the help and info available on this site.
It looks like the Size 52M is 1.5mm shorter in reach and 7mm higher in stack. I'm currently riding with 10mm of spacers on my Emonda, it seems like this size would work well with less spacers. I'm 183cm tall with an inseam of about 31.
Anyone else roughly my size care to share what size Model S they are riding and what the fit is like?
You can use several websites to compare geometry. Like these:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/)
https://bike-stats.de (https://bike-stats.de)
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I'm planning to purchase my first direct from China frame to build up over the winter as a race bike. I'm leaning towards a Model S with EPS molding. I'm just a little unclear on the sizing an geometry of this frame. Some measurements look like they are taken from different points than Trek uses.
Is anyone able to comment on what size would be the closest to a Size 56 2023 Emonda SLR? I appreciate the help and info available on this site.
It looks like the Size 52M is 1.5mm shorter in reach and 7mm higher in stack. I'm currently riding with 10mm of spacers on my Emonda, it seems like this size would work well with less spacers. I'm 183cm tall with an inseam of about 31.
Anyone else roughly my size care to share what size Model S they are riding and what the fit is like?
I'm 183 cm too and I bought size L. Yesterday I was doing fitting to cut the steerer tube and it fits me good.
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Thanks for the info folks! It looks like I'll be going for a large.
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Hi guys, I'm new here but I've read the full 35 pages so I feel like I know a bunch of you already ;D
I have a question for you aficionados: I'm 170cm but with a 75cm inseam (short legs basically). Although I fall right into the S frame size bucket (166-174cm), I'm concerned that it might still be too big. Any experience to share with Hygge specifically regarding sizing? I'm familiar with the famous "in case of doubt, size down" but if I do it I want it to be for the right reasons.
Thanks for your help!
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Hi guys, I'm new here but I've read the full 35 pages so I feel like I know a bunch of you already ;D
I have a question for you aficionados: I'm 170cm but with a 75cm inseam (short legs basically). Although I fall right into the S frame size bucket (166-174cm), I'm concerned that it might still be too big. Any experience to share with Hygge specifically regarding sizing? I'm familiar with the famous "in case of doubt, size down" but if I do it I want it to be for the right reasons.
Thanks for your help!
I am 172 with 82 inseam and I have the small. So you might want to size down...
This is my setup: (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOyz9uOiiMQqpT98m5P7IFIv7NcP-O3a4toyQN3zTs16IR8hDZPw6SCWJ5sWYgy_VCbungqPnV6V8Q0RSMdsW-FE_1pjPDQ34AUTK_dGXmTCOwAmkk7=w1920-h1080)
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I am 172 with 82 inseam and I have the small. So you might want to size down...
This is my setup: (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOyz9uOiiMQqpT98m5P7IFIv7NcP-O3a4toyQN3zTs16IR8hDZPw6SCWJ5sWYgy_VCbungqPnV6V8Q0RSMdsW-FE_1pjPDQ34AUTK_dGXmTCOwAmkk7=w1920-h1080)
What a beauty @TidyDinausor! :o
Thanks, I was thinking that you would probably be the best suited to answer that question (given your weight I assumed that we might be in the same ballpark).
Out of curiosity what handlebar size did you go for? I wouldn't really know what stem length to go for with one size down
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What a beauty @TidyDinausor! :o
Thanks, I was thinking that you would probably be the best suited to answer that question (given your weight I assumed that we might be in the same ballpark).
Out of curiosity what handlebar size did you go for? I wouldn't really know what stem length to go for with one size down
I have the 80/380 handlebar and wish I could go shorter... I find most of the frames have a reach that is too long for me. But that does correspondent to my proportions. Slightly longer legs, so slightly shorter torso...
You can compared the frame sizes on one of those geometry sites and adjust stem size there
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I have the 80/380 handlebar and wish I could go shorter... I find most of the frames have a reach that is too long for me. But that does correspondent to my proportions. Slightly longer legs, so slightly shorter torso...
You can compared the frame sizes on one of those geometry sites and adjust stem size there
Going with the XS but now I'm trying to find the right stem length (and as it's my first real road bike - I have a gravel one - I have nothing to compare it to so I can't use the likes of geometry geeks). I sent Hygge a message and they suggested 110 but I think I will go for the 100mm one
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Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? ::)
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Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? ::)
I would guess not :)
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Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? ::)
model s old frame,
it is already a very hard, rigid frame. there is absolutely no need to order the same model again for eps moulding. ;)
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Maybe if they added new features like wider tire sizes and possible perks such as UDH or a threaded T47 BB, even then it's not really a necessity unless something is holding you back from your current frame. Better off investing that money in either wheels or components that will help your performance.
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My new Eps hygge carbon laser L size, ultegra di2, elitewheels ent 2.0
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So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put more or less torque on the seat clamp?
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So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put more or less torque on the seat clamp?
Have you put carbon paste ? No seatpost slipping ?
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So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put more or less torque on the seat clamp?
I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...
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I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...
Had the same issue, but solved it by apply a thick layer of grease and the clicks disappeared. But after your post, I think I'll to sand down that part.
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Have you put carbon paste ? No seatpost slipping ?
I give it to put together to my lbs and there is a carbon paste. I saw it because I changed a bit high of the saddle and it only occurs when I'm not pedaling good enough from the saddle but moving a bit on it. I made 100km ride and there were no slipping.
I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...
I will check that, but my first guess is saddle add I wrote on top.
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Hi everyone! I just ordered new EPS molding version frame in Pearl white and waiting to be shipped. Is anyone using 160 mm disc in the rear? Any problems with caliper clearance when installing?
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Hi everyone! I just ordered new EPS molding version frame in Pearl white and waiting to be shipped. Is anyone using 160 mm disc in the rear? Any problems with caliper clearance when installing?
I used the ZTTO hybrid caliper and SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a 160mm disc without any problems. My frame is XS. However, I saw reviews that said the Juin Tech F1 and TRP HY/RD didn’t fit in the XS frame.
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I used the ZTTO hybrid caliper and SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a 160mm disc without any problems. My frame is XS. However, I saw reviews that said the Juin Tech F1 and TRP HY/RD didn’t fit in the XS frame.
I have Juin F1's and hoping to fit them to M frame. I just don't want to go downsize to 140 mm disc. Hygge seller did confirmed that frame supports 160 rear but that also depends on the caliper build. Generally full hydros are smaller in size then cable actuated hydraulic calipers. And ZTTO hybrids and TRP's look much bigger and beefier than Juin F1's. Keeping my fingers crossed they'll fit my frame size!
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That hybrid calipers won't be working properly anyway due to internal routing of the cable. It bends too much inside the handlebar.
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That hybrid calipers won't be working properly anyway due to internal routing of the cable. It bends too much inside the handlebar.
Now that's not true. I have the same brakes on my Trek Domane and I'm using Deda Alanera with internally routed cables and no difference in performance. If the bends of the housing should be extreme then yes, it may reduce the usability.
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I have Juin F1's and hoping to fit them to M frame. I just don't want to go downsize to 140 mm disc. Hygge seller did confirmed that frame supports 160 rear but that also depends on the caliper build. Generally full hydros are smaller in size then cable actuated hydraulic calipers. And ZTTO hybrids and TRP's look much bigger and beefier than Juin F1's. Keeping my fingers crossed they'll fit my frame size!
Here the similar issue that i saw in aliexpress reviews
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158720
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Here the similar issue that i saw in aliexpress reviews
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=158720
Yeah, I've seen this but take a look how low the upper arm of the triangle is recessed on that bike. And if it's size S or XS there you have a problem. On poorly designed frames and rear triangles you would struggle to put even Shimano Ultegra etc. calipers. Seen this before.
I found a web page where you can graphically compare frames and it seems like the geometry of my Domane and Hygge model S is pretty similar in terms of rear triangle so hopefully there will be no issues.
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Just got a info in a message from Hygge that they are raising the prices of EPS frames from late September forward... :)
I also stumbled upon a YT video and seems like the Hygge ins now including the aluminum spacers https://youtu.be/wthsyLFcdAY?si=Fc6xMne_jk61a4pR&t=162 (https://youtu.be/wthsyLFcdAY?si=Fc6xMne_jk61a4pR&t=162) and different compression ring https://youtu.be/wthsyLFcdAY?si=Fc6xMne_jk61a4pR&t=162 (https://youtu.be/wthsyLFcdAY?si=Fc6xMne_jk61a4pR&t=162). Even the handlebars look different judging by the print on it and black hardware.
The author of the video also comments that the frame is EPS mold and that there is aslo a clearance for 160 mm rear disc, not 140 mm like the previous non EPS frame.
Hopefully they changed the things based on the customer feedback.
Can't wait to get mine!
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I've been lurking on this forum for a long time and finally purchased my first chiner frame.
Ordered on Friday, August 23rd and delivered to the US on Tuesday, September 3rd.
Size medium with the 360/120 bar.
I don't have a borescope so I can't see all of the tubes, but the headtube, seat tube and bottom bracket looks very clean.
I plan on building this bike up over the next few months with 105 di2 and Elite Edge 50mm wheels.
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Contacted Hygge about the upgraded headset compression ring as they advertised that on the FB post about the EPS mold frame, and they are sending me the ring for 1$. My mods to the stock C-ring are holding very well and after 3000km I have no headset play but I would like not to have aluminium tape or microspacers anywhere in the headset.
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Contacted Hygge about the upgraded headset compression ring as they advertised that on the FB post about the EPS mold frame, and they are sending me the ring for 1$. My mods to the stock C-ring are holding very well and after 3000km I have no headset play but I would like not to have aluminium tape or microspacers anywhere in the headset.
Nice that they changed it and send it out to existing customers. Did you paid any taxes or anything importing your frame to Macedonia? I live in Croatia and Hygge claims no duties or taxes for EU countries so...
Cheers!
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Nice that they changed it and send it out to existing customers. Did you paid any taxes or anything importing your frame to Macedonia? I live in Croatia and Hygge claims no duties or taxes for EU countries so...
Cheers!
I did not order the frame to Macedonia but to a friend's address in Greece which is 30 min drive across the border from where I live. The shipping to Macedonia was as much as the frame itself so not very cost effective. I then imported the frame to Macedonia as parts and was not requested any payments. It would have been a totally different story if I ordered directly to Macedonia.
The shipping (sellers shipping method) includes all taxes and customs duties to EU and my fiend did not pay anything extra and got the frame delivered to his door. The same will apply for Croatia since you are in EU, so no worries, there will be no extra charges for you if you select sellers shipping method (DPD) when ordering the frame. Also, you should contact them before purchasing to make sure of the cost of shipping to Croatia.
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Nice that they changed it and send it out to existing customers. Did you paid any taxes or anything importing your frame to Macedonia? I live in Croatia and Hygge claims no duties or taxes for EU countries so...
Cheers!
I ordered frame to Poland. I can confirm that there is no customs if you choose seller shipping method. Package was sent by DPD from Belgium.
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Contacted Hygge about the upgraded headset compression ring as they advertised that on the FB post about the EPS mold frame, and they are sending me the ring for 1$. My mods to the stock C-ring are holding very well and after 3000km I have no headset play but I would like not to have aluminium tape or microspacers anywhere in the headset.
I also have aluminum tape on my C ring and that has eliminated headset play for over 500km. I guess i'll try to reach out to them too to try and get the updated ring. Have you had the chance to try it yet and if it fixed the headset play? (Guessing you haven't received it yet)
On another topic, does anyone have a aliexpress link to a rubber grommet that fits the front derailleur? I bought one for the RD and FD but only the rear one fits and I'm not sure which one to get at this point for the front.
Cheers
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I also have aluminum tape on my C ring and that has eliminated headset play for over 500km. I guess i'll try to reach out to them too to try and get the updated ring. Have you had the chance to try it yet and if it fixed the headset play? (Guessing you haven't received it yet)
On another topic, does anyone have a aliexpress link to a rubber grommet that fits the front derailleur? I bought one for the RD and FD but only the rear one fits and I'm not sure which one to get at this point for the front.
Cheers
They just shipped the ring today so it will be a loooooong time before I will get it, that is how our post office works (or doesn't work :D) for cheap parcels. Either way I'm not in a rush.
For the grommet, I used old rubber protective rubber sleeve from V-brakes. Fits the cable nicely and plugs the hole very well and prevents water and dirt ingression. Alternatively, you may punch out a hole in the gromet that plugs the hole and route the cable through that, if we are talking about Di2.
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So I treated my artist with new finish line carbon gel and the noise is gone. I have one more issue that I can't resolve. Sometime there is an issue that the disc brake rubs on the pads. It occurs only while riding, not on the stand. I guess that is something with lateral stiffenes, but I can't recognize which component does that. Wheel is2 the fork. Anyone had that issue?
I also ordered updated C ring and aluminium spacers for 11 USD.
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Hello, french man here, i ordered the Hygge in May 2024 and it cames in 2 weeks , no duties AT ALL !
700€ delivered at home, well packed.
I Had the aluminium spacers.
Few rides, nice bik, can't wait to have better wheels for a real review.
They just shipped the ring today so it will be a loooooong time before I will get it, that is how our post office works (or doesn't work :D) for cheap parcels. Either way I'm not in a rush.
For the grommet, I used old rubber protective rubber sleeve from V-brakes. Fits the cable nicely and plugs the hole very well and prevents water and dirt ingression. Alternatively, you may punch out a hole in the gromet that plugs the hole and route the cable through that, if we are talking about Di2.
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I recieved yesterday new set of aluminum spacers and new C ring. I took a week to deliver it since I contacted with Hygge
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I recieved yesterday new set of aluminum spacers and new C ring. I took a week to deliver it since I contacted with Hygge
Nice! So if I understand correctly - each cable goes through a hole in C ring?
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Nice! So if I understand correctly - each cable goes through a hole in C ring?
I didn't figure it out yet. I will replace it during winter. My play is not big and roads in my area are mostly smooth.
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Nice! So if I understand correctly - each cable goes through a hole in C ring?
The cables will go through the section that you have circled in the picture and that part will be facing forward. The other holes are to make the ring lighter and more flexible so it can deform easily and grip the steerer better. I would go around the whole ring with some fine sandpaper as I can see a lot of burrs around all of the edges.
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The cables will go through the section that you have circled in the picture and that part will be facing forward. The other holes are to make the ring lighter and more flexible so it can deform easily and grip the steerer better. I would go around the whole ring with some fine sandpaper as I can see a lot of burrs around all of the edges.
Thanks mate! I get it now. It will be my first fully internally routed road bike so I'm not familiar with some technical details. Thanks to the forums like this one and people like you it is always easier. My frame is on the way and should arrive in a few days hopefully - so excited!
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Thanks mate! I get it now. It will be my first fully internally routed road bike so I'm not familiar with some technical details. Thanks to the forums like this one and people like you it is always easier. My frame is on the way and should arrive in a few days hopefully - so excited!
Since you will have the new EPS molded frame, can you please make sure to take pictures of the internals of the frame and share them with us? Thanks a lot!!!
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Since you will have the new EPS molded frame, can you please make sure to take pictures of the internals of the frame and share them with us? Thanks a lot!!!
Yes, and weigh the frame and fork please :)
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Yes, and weigh the frame and fork please :)
Good point, weights too as probably that will make more difference with EPS molding. For reference, mine were frame size S with all hardware mounted (both hangers and thru axle) 1060g, fork with thru axle attached 386g uncut, seatpost with saddle clamp 200g uncut.
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Since you will have the new EPS molded frame, can you please make sure to take pictures of the internals of the frame and share them with us? Thanks a lot!!!
Will do and report back certainly!
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Since you will have the new EPS molded frame, can you please make sure to take pictures of the internals of the frame and share them with us? Thanks a lot!!!
I forgot to take pictures of the headtube before mocking the frame up on some old wheels, but here's a pic of the bottom bracket.
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Disc wheels at 360€
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Help! Just got the EPS frame. Two questions
1) Anyone use a washer for fixing bolt C and C2 that attached rear disc brake to frame? Frame width is ~20mm and the shimano bolts that came with groupset are for 25mm frame.
2) Looks like the threading on the fork for the front disc brake is either threaded or not not machined well. Any solutions? would you use tapping oil?
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Help! Just got the EPS frame. Two questions
1) Anyone use a washer for fixing bolt C and C2 that attached rear disc brake to frame? Frame width is ~20mm and the shimano bolts that came with groupset are for 25mm frame.
2) Looks like the threading on the fork for the front disc brake is either threaded or not not machined well. Any solutions? would you use tapping oil?
1) You can use washer but I recommand to buy the right length screw.
Edit : Added picture.
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I forgot to take pictures of the headtube before mocking the frame up on some old wheels, but here's a pic of the bottom bracket.
Looks like you have butyl tubes. If you buy TPU tubes on aliX, should cost you <10usd for a pair, and that should save you 5-7W, something like that, at every moment you're out riding. Which is a lot.
It's quantified on bicycle rolling resistance website if you want to have a look.
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Looks like you have butyl tubes. If you buy TPU tubes on aliX, should cost you <10usd for a pair, and that should save you 5-7W, something like that, at every moment you're out riding. Which is a lot.
It's quantified on bicycle rolling resistance website if you want to have a look.
It's been 4 years since the wheels in the picture have been on the road. I just put them on the Hygge for mock up purposes.
I have a set of Light Bicycle AR36 wheels with RideNow TPU tubes on my current bike that I will use on the Hygge until I can get some new deeper wheels.
I ordered my 105 Di2 groupset yesterday, so hopefully I can start building the bike up next week.
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1) You can use washer but I recommand to buy the right length screw.
Edit : Added picture.
Update:
1. Found the screws. Solved the problem.
2. Tapping Oil works!
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Does anybody know which direct mount RD hanger is compatible with the frame? I have the urge to change to direct mount for no particular reason.
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Hi friends!
Regarding the new EPS frame and the look of the internals, here's the new video on YT from Henry Chung so check it out! https://youtu.be/KIHfiQcE2E0?si=rsEJm7-5etj-N1Tv (https://youtu.be/KIHfiQcE2E0?si=rsEJm7-5etj-N1Tv)
I'm still restlessly waiting for my frame as it's been in delivery for 2 weeks now to EU...
Cheers!
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Does anybody know which direct mount RD hanger is compatible with the frame? I have the urge to change to direct mount for no particular reason.
I think direct mount hangers are brand specific so you should first find a conventional hanger design that's similar to Hygge one. Maybe try with the Bianchi ones because this frame is pure (geomtery wise) copy of Bianchi Oltre Race
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I think direct mount hangers are brand specific so you should first find a conventional hanger design that's similar to Hygge one. Maybe try with the Bianchi ones because this frame is pure (geomtery wise) copy of Bianchi Oltre Race
The Wheels Manufacturing website shows their hanger pictures in actual size-you can hold yours up to the screen to compare.
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Does anybody know which direct mount RD hanger is compatible with the frame? I have the urge to change to direct mount for no particular reason.
I know that Hygge uses a hanger identical to Colnago 2021-2022: C64 Concept V3R V3RS.
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I know that Hygge uses a hanger identical to Colnago 2021-2022: C64 Concept V3R V3RS.
I did find one from the MIXED brand on Ali and indeed it does look identical. Thank you for the suggestion. Will make the order soon.
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I did find one from the MIXED brand on Ali and indeed it does look identical. Thank you for the suggestion. Will make the order soon.
Keep us updated please :)
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I did find one from the MIXED brand on Ali and indeed it does look identical. Thank you for the suggestion. Will make the order soon.
I ordered one :)
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I ordered one :)
Me too! Race you to whoever gets it first and finds out if we made the right decision? :D
BTW I got the headset compression ring from Hygge, it is well made but it is the same thickness as the stock ring supplied in earlier iterations of the frame. This has me concerned if it will solve the rubbing of headset cover issue. As it compresses very easy with slight finger pressure, I am sure it will solve the play, not so much about the rubbing. But I am in no rush to test this.
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Me too! Race you to whoever gets it first and finds out if we made the right decision? :D
BTW I got the headset compression ring from Hygge, it is well made but it is the same thickness as the stock ring supplied in earlier iterations of the frame. This has me concerned if it will solve the rubbing of headset cover issue. As it compresses very easy with slight finger pressure, I am sure it will solve the play, not so much about the rubbing. But I am in no rush to test this.
Can you share an Ali link if it's not against the forum rules? Thanks! ;)
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Can you share an Ali link if it's not against the forum rules? Thanks! ;)
You will need (probably) CNG-TH1 or No. 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004545854616.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.6c1a8bae5kLgXM&algo_pvid=edee8aa2-9dc6-4943-b413-df3e25602f74&algo_exp_id=edee8aa2-9dc6-4943-b413-df3e25602f74-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2113.70%218.65%21%21%21104.61%2166.06%21%402101e83017273318206936893e8930%2112000029559594137%21sea%21GR%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=T87B6zhSQ0OQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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New wheels :)
Goldix R240SL hubs and 54x31mm rims
1380gr
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOxYeVzVBtnW6jEUInZWhKzNJQFOgMveaRZX4bNJ-_nUJhbvoWPujoZbdskoNS6pUw3U1Fud5pyeK22kMvuu52N8Lu0G1p8cfM6ByKO_ej2hxOjH26n=w2000)
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New wheels :)
Goldix R240SL hubs and 54x31mm rims
1380gr
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOxYeVzVBtnW6jEUInZWhKzNJQFOgMveaRZX4bNJ-_nUJhbvoWPujoZbdskoNS6pUw3U1Fud5pyeK22kMvuu52N8Lu0G1p8cfM6ByKO_ej2hxOjH26n=w2000)
Beautiful bike! The more I look at it the more it looks like Colnago V4RS! ;D
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I finished building up my Model S over the weekend. I've only been able to do laps around my neighborhood so far but it feels really good. I will hopefully be able to do a real ride in the next day or two.
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Hey all,
New to the forum, quick question.
I also bought the 2024 EPS Hygge model S, I'm currently in the process of building it (first time, having great fun with the internal cable routing ;)).
Everything is going well more or less, but now I noticed that if I turn left sharply it pulls on my front derailleur cable, causing it to almost shift.
1. Is this always going to happen to some degree? I was thinking I could maybe ignore this because I'll never be turning that sharp in real life either way.
2. Now I have cable housing going from my shifters until a few mm below my front derailleur, should I stop the cable housing before exiting the frame, or does this not matter?
Thanks in advance!
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Hey all,
New to the forum, quick question.
I also bought the 2024 EPS Hygge model S, I'm currently in the process of building it (first time, having great fun with the internal cable routing ;)).
Everything is going well more or less, but now I noticed that if I turn left sharply it pulls on my front derailleur cable, causing it to almost shift.
1. Is this always going to happen to some degree? I was thinking I could maybe ignore this because I'll never be turning that sharp in real life either way.
2. Now I have cable housing going from my shifters until a few mm below my front derailleur, should I stop the cable housing before exiting the frame, or does this not matter?
Thanks in advance!
I think you might have cut your cable too short... My outer housing also goes up to the derailleur. But I can move my handlebars freely all the way from left to right.
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When I replace the cable with a longer one, will me shifting the front derailleur not just add or remove slack to the cable?
In other words, when I use a longer cable, will I still be able to generate enough pull on the cable to shift the derailleur? Or am I seeing this wrong?
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When I replace the cable with a longer one, will me shifting the front derailleur not just add or remove slack to the cable?
In other words, when I use a longer cable, will I still be able to generate enough pull on the cable to shift the derailleur? Or am I seeing this wrong?
To be clear, you will also need a longer outer housing. The outer housing rigid, so a longer outer cable will make no difference to the shifting. Just give it some slack inside the frame. This will also give you some reserve for the future. Don't forget the dampening foam around the cables inside the frame.
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Alright, that makes sense, I'll give it a try.
Thanks!
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Hi all,
I have been reading this topic for the last couple of months and decided to buy a frame beginning of September. Nothing has been shipped yet and the seller doesn't give me more information. How long did it take for you guys until the frame was shipped?
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Hi all,
I have been reading this topic for the last couple of months and decided to buy a frame beginning of September. Nothing has been shipped yet and the seller doesn't give me more information. How long did it take for you guys until the frame was shipped?
I ordered from their website a few days ago but haven't heard anything yet either. But I don't expect to hear anything before the national day holidays are over. Have you had any contact with the seller?
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I ordered mine on August 19th and it was shippend on August 28th. Arrived a month later in Belgium (but was stuck in customs for two weeks).
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Hi all,
I have been reading this topic for the last couple of months and decided to buy a frame beginning of September. Nothing has been shipped yet and the seller doesn't give me more information. How long did it take for you guys until the frame was shipped?
I also ordered a Pearl white EPS frame on August 27th and waiting since then. I tried contacting them through WhatsApp and Aliexpress and they told me that the plane did not left the Hong Kong and gave me a new tracking number (?!). When tracked my order got some shipping steps in DPD application but since 24th of September nothing changed. They don't answer my messages and if they do their answer is "I will check friend". I've been waiting too long now and getting nervous. They also told me that the delay is because of the new EPS frames that it needs 10-15 days for delivery to EU countries. I guess they dropship so they probably waiting for a larger quantity of orders to avoid shipping expenses. Highly unprofessional and not great way to build a brand image.
Where did you order your frame to? EU or USA/Canada or somewhere else?
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I ordered from their website a few days ago but haven't heard anything yet either. But I don't expect to hear anything before the national day holidays are over. Have you had any contact with the seller?
I did have contact with the seller. The answer is always "This week friend".
I ordered mine on August 19th and it was shippend on August 28th. Arrived a month later in Belgium (but was stuck in customs for two weeks).
Then I have some hope they will still ship it soon.
I also ordered a Pearl white EPS frame on August 27th and waiting since then. I tried contacting them through WhatsApp and Aliexpress and they told me that the plane did not left the Hong Kong and gave me a new tracking number (?!). When tracked my order got some shipping steps in DPD application but since 24th of September nothing changed. They don't answer my messages and if they do their answer is "I will check friend". I've been waiting too long now and getting nervous. They also told me that the delay is because of the new EPS frames that it needs 10-15 days for delivery to EU countries. I guess they dropship so they probably waiting for a larger quantity of orders to avoid shipping expenses. Highly unprofessional and not great way to build a brand image.
Where did you order your frame to? EU or USA/Canada or somewhere else?
I am also getting nervous. But thats the choice when you order from China probably.
I ordered it to the EU.
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I did have contact with the seller. The answer is always "This week friend".
Then I have some hope they will still ship it soon.
I am also getting nervous. But thats the choice when you order from China probably.
I ordered it to the EU.
This is their answer after my message and scrubbing of their shipping time and policy - "Hey friend, we understand your feeling very well, since now is in peak season for all the shipping method, as we checked the tracking, the pack is already in EU now"!
As I thought - they dropship and wait for the quantity large enough to cut the expenses.
Nothing else but wait. 8)
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September / October is peak road bike order season and i'm the queen of england. It's funny how many peak seasons they have in the year :) Yuanan was claiming the same thing early in the summer, like May or June, but at least that sounded plausible...
Also, singles day is coming up (11.11) so you can be certain there's a dip in orders leading up to that, just like black friday.
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You will need (probably) CNG-TH1 or No. 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004545854616.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.6c1a8bae5kLgXM&algo_pvid=edee8aa2-9dc6-4943-b413-df3e25602f74&algo_exp_id=edee8aa2-9dc6-4943-b413-df3e25602f74-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2113.70%218.65%21%21%21104.61%2166.06%21%402101e83017273318206936893e8930%2112000029559594137%21sea%21GR%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=T87B6zhSQ0OQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
This one fits. I just installed it BUT you will need to take the Dremel to the frame and the hanger...
The new hanger does not fit in the original space because there is a little too much carbon (see pic). I decided to take the risk and ground it away with my Dremel until it fit.
Second problem is that the outer part of the hanger will not fit in the hole of the new hanger. The hole is a tiny fraction to small. So again I took the Dremel and enlarged it by a fraction of a mm until both parts fitted. I did have to adjust the B-screw to increase the gap between upper pulley and lagest cog.
This is the result:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNHkBZwxjZ3EuolvqNp1dJhYgYQYBLJgM23PCmrBObBZefHf_lIdhQRxt281Jub_-FB2RRcOJA2Pc3b-puELG5s9dGdEor_YMH6VcBhtLAfgIZSPxFL=w1920-h1080)
The problem:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPWXpG3ndY3DiNzNG-lQ9qBlDCe1CymX0wgNnQd_n206HSmjIGzqv7O6Mrm2jqljOS39gfWNXD84PLnItm2wnTowU_1IU_sPjnrDiTQ0bIaLHXLNAfg=w1920-h1080)
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This one fits. I just installed it BUT you will need to take the Dremel to the frame and the hanger...
The new hanger does not fit in the original space because there is a little too much carbon (see pic). I decided to take the risk and ground it away with my Dremel until it fit.
Second problem is that the outer part of the hanger will not fit in the hole of the new hanger. The hole is a tiny fraction to small. So again I took the Dremel and enlarged it by a fraction of a mm until both parts fitted. I did have to adjust the B-screw to increase the gap between upper pulley and lagest cog.
I would probably not touch the frame... Not worth in my mind to mess with something that isn't broken. If it was a straight swap then yes, would consider it an upgrade (although I doubt that it affects shifting as much), but altering a perfectly working system I cannot justify to myself if something goes wrong. This goes straight to my spare parts bin.
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hi everyone after reading this topic I decided to give it a go and today I did my first 60km ride.
First I need to say that the feeling is great when I get the bike up to speed it holds it up very well.
It is my first experience with a bike build and I need to say that it wasn't as bad as some people say.
I chose 105 12 speed and the shifting is silky smooth, brakes are great too.
Problems I had with this particular frame. When I received the package, the derailleurs hangers were missing for both of the frames and one of the bolts to hold the derailleur was too short so I had to buy new bolts and cut them to the right length. The compression plug was bad quality so I chose to go with a BBB one and for now it seems all good.
Overall coming from a 2014 sensa romania, I'm absolutely in love with the bike, I think it looks stunning and feels way way faster. LMK if any of you have questions abt the build
PS: please guys don't overtight bolts
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My frame has finally showed up in Belgium so I expect to have it in a week or so and will start building a bike. ;D
Do you guys know which one of these silicone covers would best fit seatpost clamp?
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hi everyone after reading this topic I decided to give it a go and today I did my first 60km ride.
First I need to say that the feeling is great when I get the bike up to speed it holds it up very well.
It is my first experience with a bike build and I need to say that it wasn't as bad as some people say.
I chose 105 12 speed and the shifting is silky smooth, brakes are great too.
Problems I had with this particular frame. When I received the package, the derailleurs hangers were missing for both of the frames and one of the bolts to hold the derailleur was too short so I had to buy new bolts and cut them to the right length. The compression plug was bad quality so I chose to go with a BBB one and for now it seems all good.
Overall coming from a 2014 sensa romania, I'm absolutely in love with the bike, I think it looks stunning and feels way way faster. LMK if any of you have questions abt the build
PS: please guys don't overtight bolts
Nice built! And I agree, there is so much content online that with some prep time building a bike is not something to be afraid of
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My frame has finally showed up in Belgium so I expect to have it in a week or so and will start building a bike. ;D
Do you guys know which one of these silicone covers would best fit seatpost clamp?
I would think the middle one. There's no space behind the squared off section of the seatpost.
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I would think the middle one. There's no space behind the squared off section of the seatpost.
That would also be my guess.
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Hello friends.
sram etap axs front gear is short for 53/39. i couldn't install it. is it necessary to change the front gear holder for this? there is a very small difference but it doesn't work unfortunately. does hygge sell a longer front gear holder?
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Hello friends.
sram etap axs front gear is short for 53/39. i couldn't install it. is it necessary to change the front gear holder for this? there is a very small difference but it doesn't work unfortunately. does hygge sell a longer front gear holder?
Make the front derailleur mounting slot longer with a rat tail file if you need just 1-2 mm more adjustment.
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This one fits. I just installed it BUT you will need to take the Dremel to the frame and the hanger...
The new hanger does not fit in the original space because there is a little too much carbon (see pic). I decided to take the risk and ground it away with my Dremel until it fit.
Second problem is that the outer part of the hanger will not fit in the hole of the new hanger. The hole is a tiny fraction to small. So again I took the Dremel and enlarged it by a fraction of a mm until both parts fitted. I did have to adjust the B-screw to increase the gap between upper pulley and lagest cog.
How will this modification affect i.e. the reversal? Like putting back the original hanger? Will it still be securely mounted in a right way? I'm curious since I ordered the exact direct mount hanger. Thx
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How will this modification affect i.e. the reversal? Like putting back the original hanger? Will it still be securely mounted in a right way? I'm curious since I ordered the exact direct mount hanger. Thx
I guess the original will still fit. No guarantees though :D
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The 2023 (non eps?) rim brake version of the frame now seems to be discounted to 480 USD in their website vs the 2024 EPS disc brake version at 640 USD.
A sub 500 carbon frame of this quality is tempting, but perhaps better to go for the EPS mold version.. what do you think
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The 2023 (non eps?) rim brake version of the frame now seems to be discounted to 480 USD in their website vs the 2024 EPS disc brake version at 640 USD.
A sub 500 carbon frame of this quality is tempting, but perhaps better to go for the EPS mold version.. what do you think
So you would take a rim brake instead of disc just for the discount?
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;D tbh, no particular preference in that area, my good ol rim brakes proved plenty for my sea level rides (apart from really wet conditions), plus the easier to maintain.. But I get the point, maybe it’s time to take the leap and join the disc - side when pulling the trigger on the Hygge model S 2024
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Hi to all,
I’m new in this vintage forum :)
I have a question about hygge :
Which is the torque of stem clamp?
Because yesterday I mounted the fork and the stem but when I tight the cap, the clams slipped out of about 2/3 mm from the position.
I hope you understand because I’m not well in English :)
Thank you.
Romeo
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Hi to all,
I’m new in this vintage forum :)
I have a question about hygge :
Which is the torque of stem clamp?
Because yesterday I mounted the fork and the stem but when I tight the cap, the clams slipped out of about 2/3 mm from the position.
I hope you understand because I’m not well in English :)
Thank you.
Romeo
The torque for stem bolts is 5 -5.5 Nm and less for the stem cap (cca 4 Nm). Note that you firstly need to torque cap to preload the stem and spacers, and then the stem bolts. Do not exceed the values because you are risking the carbon to crack thus making it unusable. Use the carbon paste on the contact points to improve grip and good luck!
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It finally arrived! 8)
Had no chance to open the parcel and see the frame but tomorrow is a build day!
Cheers
P.s. My parents put the box wrongly and I protested! ;D ;D ;D
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It finally arrived! 8)
Very nice! How long did shipping take in the end? Mine just departed from Hongkong
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Very nice! How long did shipping take in the end? Mine just departed from Hongkong
The payment was made on 26th of August and shipping was on September 10th - the plane didn't left so they sent another one on September 13th. One month to my door from there. Arrived in EU on October 4th. It takes 2 week from China to appear in the EU and DPD tracking. My parcel was held a few das in local DPD because they noticed box damage and they were evaluating if they should proceed with delivery or return it to sender! I was so pissed but eventually they opened the parcel and the contents were intact and undamaged. This is Hygge problem because they need to improve their packaging. The shipping box is too weak and the frame is wrapped in the silk foam liner which cannot protect from breakage but only from minor scuffs. I would pay 10 more EUR for a better shipping box if needed than to lose time on returning the damaged frame.
I still need to open the box because it's at my parents house and hopefully everything is ok.
BTW I didn't paid any taxes or import duties 8)
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So my frame arrived and I got busy assembling the bike.
The frame came in a slightly crumbled box but the content was intact and not damaged, wrapped in what they called silk foam. I spent 20 minutes unwrapping it ;D
Frame itself is beautiful, well made, inside is smooth with no visible overruns or sharp edges. Brake mount surfaces are faced but could be better. I'm using Juin F1 hydro-mechs and rear caliper did fit (160 mm) by the skin of my teeth. Cutting the fork steerer was a bit scary experience because I never cut carbon which is easy to plunge into with a sharp saw.
The pain in the arse was guiding the cables through the handlebar and there's where I lost most of the time. You need to sort 4 cables (I'm using 105 mechanical) and then guide them through narrow spaces. After lot of struggle, I helped myself by guiding the old shifting cable from the opposite side and it served as a guide for the cable housings to easily go out. Other parts went pretty easily. Still need to do the derailleurs, tighten everything up with the torque wrench, do some adjustments and do the handlebar tape.
The whole bike came around 8 kg's with pedals and bottle cages. Feels solid and light. Had no chance to try it yet but sitting on it feels good in terms of my body position. I'm coming from the endurance geometry (Trek Domane) and I'm almost 50 years old so I left the full stack of spacers (which are aluminum and the C ring is a new design) so I'll be able to adjust the handlebar height eventually if I need to slam it furthermore. Can't wait to ride it but have a busy schedule these days.
Cheers!
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Nice watermark :) Smart move.
I like the colour. If you get the chance, post some pictures of it outside in the sun for a better look :D
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Very nice build! The color is beautiful too. I was doubting between this white one and the blue one, eventually chose the blue one :D
Some time ago someone mentioned that the handlebar ends could flex quite a lot, like one centimeter each way. Is this still the case or is this issue resolved now?
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Nice watermark :) Smart move.
I like the colour. If you get the chance, post some pictures of it outside in the sun for a better look :D
Thanks mate!
Will take better photos because I was too tired yesterday evening and the light in my parents flat is terrible :)
Yeah, Hygge steals pics of user bikes and posts them without permission so I got ahead of them haha.
The color is plain white, seems like it has nothing to do with pearl white because it's missing that sparkle that my Trek has. But laser logo decals are nice touch. I like white bikes. And yes, they get dirty easily ;D
Thinking to put the white handlebar tape for a test... ;D ;D ;D
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Very nice build! The color is beautiful too. I was doubting between this white one and the blue one, eventually chose the blue one :D
Some time ago someone mentioned that the handlebar ends could flex quite a lot, like one centimeter each way. Is this still the case or is this issue resolved now?
Thanks!
I tried to flex the handlebars and they are stiff as hell (or I'm weak as a pussy ;D). No substantial flex
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Nice colors, the red brake calipers compliment the white frame and black wheels.
A question on your full mechanical shifting, do you notice any friction? What housing and cables did you use? I'm planning on going mechanical too and would love to hear your choices :)
My order has been shipped but DPD tracking didn't show up yet.
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So my frame arrived and I got busy assembling the bike.
The frame came in a slightly crumbled box but the content was intact and not damaged, wrapped in what they called silk foam. I spent 20 minutes unwrapping it ;D
Frame itself is beautiful, well made, inside is smooth with no visible overruns or sharp edges. Brake mount surfaces are faced but could be better. I'm using Juin F1 hydro-mechs and rear caliper did fit (160 mm) by the skin of my teeth. Cutting the fork steerer was a bit scary experience because I never cut carbon which is easy to plunge into with a sharp saw.
The pain in the arse was guiding the cables through the handlebar and there's where I lost most of the time. You need to sort 4 cables (I'm using 105 mechanical) and then guide them through narrow spaces. After lot of struggle, I helped myself by guiding the old shifting cable from the opposite side and it served as a guide for the cable housings to easily go out. Other parts went pretty easily. Still need to do the derailleurs, tighten everything up with the torque wrench, do some adjustments and do the handlebar tape.
The whole bike came around 8 kg's with pedals and bottle cages. Feels solid and light. Had no chance to try it yet but sitting on it feels good in terms of my body position. I'm coming from the endurance geometry (Trek Domane) and I'm almost 50 years old so I left the full stack of spacers (which are aluminum and the C ring is a new design) so I'll be able to adjust the handlebar height eventually if I need to slam it furthermore. Can't wait to ride it but have a busy schedule these days.
Cheers!
Looks really nice. Would probably go for that color on my next roadbike as well. Ultegra Di2 would be lighte I guess.
One thing, if I would have to nag, the logo's of the tire should line up with the valve stems :)
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Nice colors, the red brake calipers compliment the white frame and black wheels.
A question on your full mechanical shifting, do you notice any friction? What housing and cables did you use? I'm planning on going mechanical too and would love to hear your choices :)
My order has been shipped but DPD tracking didn't show up yet.
I'm running full outer casings through the frame and I used shimano original casing sets with cables and ends. For brakes also shimano outings and RFR cables. No friction or difference in shifting or braking from my previous bike. I have no money for electronic groupset and don't want to use full hydros because of bleeding and maintenance so I use hydro-mechs. Just replace the cable when needed and the stopping power is good enough for me. I'm not racing or sprinting or anything, just enjoying the rides and having fun.
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Looks really nice. Would probably go for that color on my next roadbike as well. Ultegra Di2 would be lighte I guess.
One thing, if I would have to nag, the logo's of the tire should line up with the valve stems :)
Thanks. I compared mechanical to Di2 105 and turns out that mechanical is lighter. ;D Not much but is. I don't like having to charge a simple thing as a bike so still not getting into electronic shifting. I'm old school I guess.
And yes, I noticed to. As soon as I will have time I will correct the sacrilege! 8)
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I finally built the bike and it rides like a dream! Will post some pictures as soon as the sun shows up and do the justice on color and stuff.
Does anyone knows where to get rubber grommets to close the rear and front derailleur cable ports because they seem like a possible water ingress holes? If you are using a DIY stuff please post a pic or link.
Thanx
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I finally built the bike and it rides like a dream! Will post some pictures as soon as the sun shows up and do the justice on color and stuff.
Does anyone knows where to get rubber grommets to close the rear and front derailleur cable ports because they seem like a possible water ingress holes? If you are using a DIY stuff please post a pic or link.
Thanx
I used the supplied grommets for my di2 cables and stuck a piece of tape over the hole that a mechanical front derailleur would use. Not sure how well it will hold, but I'm not too worried since there is a drain hole on the bottom of the BB area.
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I'm interested in the frame, but I noticed that it has a very slack head tube angle and loads of trail. Much more than my endurance focused road bike, in fact. This seems to be especially true for smaller sizes (S-M). Can anyone tell me how the bike rides? How does it compare to a typical race bike? I would like to have a bike that is more nimble than my current endurance road bike (with 72.5° head tube angle). I wonder if the Model S is suitable, sure doesn't look like it.
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Dear friends,
My frame arrived last week after a month of anxious waiting and complications. I built it and rode it this weekend—it’s fun, light, fast, and both stiff and compliant. I’m pleased with it! It weighs about 8 kg with bottle cages, Garmin mount, and Look pedals. Note that my Merlin CDR-2 carbon wheels are not the lightest at 1650 g per pair.
During assembly, I had some trouble routing the cables through the handlebars, but using a shifter cable as a guide made it easier. The other components were straightforward to install and adjust. The frame is pearl white, and its color truly shines in sunlight, with a sparkling effect and "laser" decals that change hues—definitely a head turner! I haven't had issues with the headset loosening, thanks to the new design C rings, and all bolts, including the seatpost one, remained secure.
I'm using a Shimano 105 mechanical groupset, a 3D-printed Ryet saddle (160 g), Supacaz sticky cush bar tape, and Continental GP5000 32 mm tires with RideNow TPU tubes. I installed a chain catcher for frame protection and put Zefal Skin Armor under the downtube and in other key areas. The brakes are Juin F1 hydro-mechs and they fitted by the skin o' my teeth at the rear mount (160 mm rotors). I still need to adjust my hood positions, as they seem angled downwards too much. This frame is size 52 M, and it fits me perfectly (180 cm, 73 kg). I left full stack of alu spacers under the handlebars and will decide if I'll slam it futher down.
Here are some photos I took during the ride but they don't do the justice - it's more beautiful in person! (Sorry for the dirty rims and anti-Velominati postioned tires and valve stems!). Hope Hygge won't steal my photos or will at least credit anyone who posts their photos after they put it on their FB or Insta.
P.S. I don't know if they've changed the handlebars but they have different graphics and 6 Nm torque written. Handlebars are pretty stiff.
Cheers!
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Finished my build of the 2024 EPS modelled frame. First full bike build and definitely not the last ;D. Just did a 60K test ride on it and I love it. Groupset is Sensah Empire pro 12 x 2.
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I received my frameset and noticed 2 things about the handlebars.
First, the special spacer that connects the regular spacers with the handlebars doesn't sit very flush with the handlebars. I am a little worried that this could put concentrate stress on one spot and eventually lead to failure. Do you think this worry is warranted?
Second, this is more about the computer mount, but I ordered the 90mm stem length version of the handlebars and if I wanted to install the computer mount it would probably just barely fit before it would interfere with the special spacer I mentioned before. If anyone is thinking about ordering the 80mm version of the handlebars I am not certain that you could mount this computer mount. Another thing is that adjusting the length of the mount will be a funny thing since if mounted in the very forward position that you are forced into due to the stem tongue sticking out it has about 50mm of space between the handlebars and a smaller form factor computer like a wahoo bolt (I guess only 20mm if you have the 120mm stem). I have no idea if the computer mount bolts are in the same position for all handlebar lengths but something to be aware of.
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I was curious and installed the thing and with the spacers you can minimally move it back so the open space with a wahoo bolt is only 45mm. Still I'm probably going to get another computer mount.
Oh, and what is another small problem is that I received a 30mm expander plug instead of a 50mm. This is not good since the stem clamp is 40mm wide and would clamp below the expander plug...
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I received my frameset and noticed 2 things about the handlebars.
First, the special spacer that connects the regular spacers with the handlebars doesn't sit very flush with the handlebars. I am a little worried that this could put concentrate stress on one spot and eventually lead to failure. Do you think this worry is warranted?
Second, this is more about the computer mount, but I ordered the 90mm stem length version of the handlebars and if I wanted to install the computer mount it would probably just barely fit before it would interfere with the special spacer I mentioned before. If anyone is thinking about ordering the 80mm version of the handlebars I am not certain that you could mount this computer mount. Another thing is that adjusting the length of the mount will be a funny thing since if mounted in the very forward position that you are forced into due to the stem tongue sticking out it has about 50mm of space between the handlebars and a smaller form factor computer like a wahoo bolt (I guess only 20mm if you have the 120mm stem). I have no idea if the computer mount bolts are in the same position for all handlebar lengths but something to be aware of.
Congrats on a new frame! I'm looking forward to see how your bike goes when built.
I don't have such problem with my handlebar (100/380 combo). The spacer covering the cable hole on the bottom of the hadlebar sits flush and no void between them.
Yep, the "garmin" mount could be better in terms of adjustability and I went with mine all the way to the top of that top spacer. If I needed to slide it more backward I would cut the part of it since it's cheap carbon copy. And I'm pretty shure that my handlebars came with silver mounting bolts for the garmin mount (but I'll check and report). And I thing my mount comes with two slits for the bolts, not one long cutout.
I also received the expander plug of 50 mm and was not looking crappy so I used it and it holds very well.
I have to report that after 250 km ridden on a bike and checking the torques, none of the screws loosened or somethin, my handlebars are solid without flex (even this crappy garmin mount doesn't flex with unit and the light mounted), seatpost hasn't slipped a mm so for now I'm pretty good.
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Just received the frame as well! It looks very nice. The plan is to build it over the winter. I am still waiting on the rims to build some wheel for it.
I received my frameset and noticed 2 things about the handlebars.
First, the special spacer that connects the regular spacers with the handlebars doesn't sit very flush with the handlebars. I am a little worried that this could put concentrate stress on one spot and eventually lead to failure. Do you think this worry is warranted?
Second, this is more about the computer mount, but I ordered the 90mm stem length version of the handlebars and if I wanted to install the computer mount it would probably just barely fit before it would interfere with the special spacer I mentioned before. If anyone is thinking about ordering the 80mm version of the handlebars I am not certain that you could mount this computer mount. Another thing is that adjusting the length of the mount will be a funny thing since if mounted in the very forward position that you are forced into due to the stem tongue sticking out it has about 50mm of space between the handlebars and a smaller form factor computer like a wahoo bolt (I guess only 20mm if you have the 120mm stem). I have no idea if the computer mount bolts are in the same position for all handlebar lengths but something to be aware of.
I have the same issue. It doesn't look flush at all.
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I'm having the same issue actually, I thought it was because of my cable routing through the stem at first.
I applied a bit of pressure on the bars before tightening them but I can't recall if that "fixed" it, I'll post a pic of the current situation tonight.
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Yep, the "garmin" mount could be better in terms of adjustability and I went with mine all the way to the top of that top spacer. If I needed to slide it more backward I would cut the part of it since it's cheap carbon copy. And I'm pretty shure that my handlebars came with silver mounting bolts for the garmin mount (but I'll check and report). And I thing my mount comes with two slits for the bolts, not one long cutout.
Yeah, I had to use the silver bolts since the black bolts that came pre-installed were too short when you used the plastic spacers.
Congrats on a new frame! I'm looking forward to see how your bike goes when built.
Yeah, thanks. However, I'm not going to fully build the bike all that soon. I have to pick up my PM crank (Magene P505) from my parents' place the next time I visit them since they wouldn't ship to where I live (I bought it from the official Magene website, not Aliexpress). I just put the frame together to check if everything is okay.
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I think the problem with the handlebars is that the lip or tongue of that special spacer is contacting the handlebars. I have seen some markings where it contacts the handlebar and marked them in green. I guess the simple solution is trying to file this spacer down until it sits flush.
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On the older bikes that spacer was plastic so it just bends to adapt to the underside of the handlebars.
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I just checked with my setup. One side sits flush, the other doesn't...
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i did file down the spacer quite a bit.
looked like the pictures from above, no way it would sit flush.
otherwise my frame realy rides fast and fun and the build and quality of the frame are feeling really good, e.g. not cheap.
the bar is sufficient stiff on the horns, but you can feel the flex if you are sprinting for the first time.
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The Order was placed on September 29 2024 and arrived around Oktober 15 2024 in Germany.
Model S, Size large; Cockpit 420 / 110
i am 1.85 Meters. Size feels good, Medium would be way to low and short on the front [i am an recreational rider.]
Regarding the Seatpost, it is nearly slammed.
so you could theoretically get away with a longer Cockpit? and more spacers?
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I am assembling mine now. Was finished, thought that there was suppose to be gap because of the cables, however. I have now seen what can not be unseen, and that is that its not flush. I have tried filing it down, but for the love of god i can not get it perfectly flush.
PS! I ripped the wheels from another bike. I will get new ones before spring. Its getting really cold in Norway now.
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I checked my stack of spacers and it's also gap on one side. Don't think it's a huge problem but tolerances should be smaller for such things.
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This thread has been very helpful in making the decision to order a Model S frame with custom paint job. Thank you!
I've never built a complete bike before though I'm pretty handy and have many bicycle tools at my disposal. Can anyone recommend a resource for walking through a build for these Chinese frames? I'm going to use my current Shimano Ultegra Di2 groupset, except for the crankset. Haven't decided on the brand for that, but will definitely go 165mm.
Also, recommendations for a bottom bracket?
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Also, recommendations for a bottom bracket?
Just get one from Shimano. Sealing is a lot better with Shimano so the bearings will last a lot longer. And they don't cost much.
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Dear friends,
My frame arrived last week after a month of anxious waiting and complications. I built it and rode it this weekend—it’s fun, light, fast, and both stiff and compliant. I’m pleased with it! It weighs about 8 kg with bottle cages, Garmin mount, and Look pedals. Note that my Merlin CDR-2 carbon wheels are not the lightest at 1650 g per pair.
During assembly, I had some trouble routing the cables through the handlebars, but using a shifter cable as a guide made it easier. The other components were straightforward to install and adjust. The frame is pearl white, and its color truly shines in sunlight, with a sparkling effect and "laser" decals that change hues—definitely a head turner! I haven't had issues with the headset loosening, thanks to the new design C rings, and all bolts, including the seatpost one, remained secure.
I'm using a Shimano 105 mechanical groupset, a 3D-printed Ryet saddle (160 g), Supacaz sticky cush bar tape, and Continental GP5000 32 mm tires with RideNow TPU tubes. I installed a chain catcher for frame protection and put Zefal Skin Armor under the downtube and in other key areas. The brakes are Juin F1 hydro-mechs and they fitted by the skin o' my teeth at the rear mount (160 mm rotors). I still need to adjust my hood positions, as they seem angled downwards too much. This frame is size 52 M, and it fits me perfectly (180 cm, 73 kg). I left full stack of alu spacers under the handlebars and will decide if I'll slam it futher down.
Here are some photos I took during the ride but they don't do the justice - it's more beautiful in person! (Sorry for the dirty rims and anti-Velominati postioned tires and valve stems!). Hope Hygge won't steal my photos or will at least credit anyone who posts their photos after they put it on their FB or Insta.
P.S. I don't know if they've changed the handlebars but they have different graphics and 6 Nm torque written. Handlebars are pretty stiff.
Cheers!
I am curious about the tire clearance because they advertise max 30mm tire. What is the width-as-measured of your Conti GP5000 tires? Roughly how much tire clearance in millimeters is there on each side of the tires?
Thanks.
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Can anyone recommend a resource for walking through a build for these Chinese frames?
Youtube is where I would go - here is a two-part series specific to the Hygge model by Henry Chung (who also posts on here I believe).
Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz9O7tMQVe4
Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58-htKDpXQ0
Maybe it's helpful to watch a few general build videos in addition to the above, starting with everyone's favorite Youtuber*, Trace Velo.
£1000 AliExpress Carbon road bike build - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRVsX2WEkqg
Jourdain Coleman has several build series that provide additional details.
See the four 'Bike Build' playlists - https://www.youtube.com/@JourdainColeman/playlists (I'd focus on the 'build process' videos within the respective playlists, the rest aren't that relevant to the assembly of the various bikes)
* Sorry, couldn't find a build video by everyone's other favorite Youtuber, Patrick Lino.
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I figured out that I had not torqued the compression plug.. I have the new c ring and metal spacers. Is 4-6 nm enough? I have not used carbon paste on the expander plug, which I probably should do.
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I figured out that I had not torqued the compression plug.. I have the new c ring and metal spacers. Is 4-6 nm enough? I have not used carbon paste on the expander plug, which I probably should do.
I have used carbon paste everywhere, on the inside and outside of the steerer, on the expander plug and on the inside of the stem clamping area. Try 2-3 Nm for compression it should be enough and 7-8 for the expander plug. That is what I did after modifying the previous generation C-ring. Plus, apply thread lock on the nut side of the stem bolts, they tended to rattle themselves loose in my case. That was enough to keep things tight for 5000 km of use so far.
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Youtube is where I would go - here is a two-part series specific to the Hygge model by Henry Chung (who also posts on here I believe).
Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz9O7tMQVe4
Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58-htKDpXQ0
Maybe it's helpful to watch a few general build videos in addition to the above, starting with everyone's favorite Youtuber*, Trace Velo.
£1000 AliExpress Carbon road bike build - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRVsX2WEkqg
Jourdain Coleman has several build series that provide additional details.
See the four 'Bike Build' playlists - https://www.youtube.com/@JourdainColeman/playlists (I'd focus on the 'build process' videos within the respective playlists, the rest aren't that relevant to the assembly of the various bikes)
* Sorry, couldn't find a build video by everyone's other favorite Youtuber, Patrick Lino.
OZ Cycle on Youtube is really helpful!
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I am looking at picking one of these up for my wife on the 11/11 sale. Is the eps moulded frame worth the extra money? Has someone had both versions ?
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I am looking at picking one of these up for my wife on the 11/11 sale. Is the eps moulded frame worth the extra money? Has someone had both versions ?
As far as I know, the disc brake frame is only available in its EPS variant. The rim brake frame is still the old style.
Rim vs Disc can be debated to eternity.
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Holy, didn’t even notice that. Makes sane haha. I need another coffee. Thanks for the reply
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I'm considering Elves Falath Evo 2025 frame which looks awesome but cost 1100$. Hygge is a lot cheeper and on 11.11 will be half the price of the Elves. Has anyone been in a similar situation? 2year guarantee on Hygge vs 5 on Elves :-\
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I'm considering Elves Falath Evo 2025 frame which looks awesome but cost 1100$. Hygge is a lot cheeper and on 11.11 will be half the price of the Elves. Has anyone been in a similar situation? 2year guarantee on Hygge vs 5 on Elves :-\
Since Chinese warranty is like a lottery, I would not let that guide my decision...
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Since Chinese warranty is like a lottery, I would not let that guide my decision...
Yup i saw one post with cracked bb on hygge frame and response from producer that they will replace the frame but owner should pay for delivery.
From Elves site i don't saw any of these cases, but they also have higher distribution network (USA,UK, few countries in EU,and Asia) so the delivery will be faster than from Hygge.
To be honest half priced Hygge is super offer. I might be tempted to buy it if I can get the price down a bit on AliX.
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I’ve been building up the Hygge Model S and have been questioning my headset install. There looks to be too much of a gap between headset and frame, especially on top, but bearings are seated nicely.
Thoughts?
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I’ve been building up the Hygge Model S and have been questioning my headset install. There looks to be too much of a gap between headset and frame, especially on top, but bearings are seated nicely.
Thoughts?
That seems too much in my opinion. Maybe you installed c ring upsidedown? Mine is nicely flush and has a minimal gap.
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That seems too much in my opinion. Maybe you installed c ring upsidedown? Mine is nicely flush and has a minimal gap.
Yeah, your bearings will be ruined in no time like that... There must be something installed wrong... Do the pins of the spacer fit nicely in the holes?
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Does anyone have info on what other brand Hyyge's seatpost is similar or identical to? I'm just curious because I'm trying to find a 3d printed radar seatpost mount... THx
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Did anyone has info on what other brand Hyyge's seatpost is similar or identical to? I'm just curious because I'm trying to find a 3d printed radar seatpost mount... THx
I have been searching in the past because I would like a 0 setback post, but could not find any...
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I have been searching in the past because I would like a 0 setback post, but could not find any...
Me too. No luck. I will try and contact Hygge and ask which design did they used. I suppose that they used ready made cockpit and seatpost designs, not developing their own. Will report back. Thx
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Btw, my OCD wouldn't leave me alone so I decided to order red M5 screws for bottle cages from AliX to match other red bits such as chain catcher, brake callipers, valve caps etc.
They arrived and I tried to install one and it snapped! Part of it stayed inside the rivet nut >:( :'(
The rivet nuts are not of great quality but at least screws that came with the frame are (I'm guessing they are stainless steel by the hardness and weight).
So I had to drill the hole and use the tap and die set (luckily I have one for small diameters).
Lesson learned - don't buy cheap parts cause they may cost you too much in the end!
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Working on a 3d printed seatpost mount for my Garmin Varia
(https://i.imgur.com/9ksadWT.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rsx8Ueu.jpeg)
Great! Do you mind sharing a files for the model? Thx!
Btw do you know what kind of seatpost Hygge uses in terms of similarity to other brands?
Cheers
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I have been searching in the past because I would like a 0 setback post, but could not find any...
Just got an answer which I don't like...
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Just got an answer which I don't like...
The seatpost is totally proprietary and you won't be able to find a replacement. As for the holder for the radar light, if you have a friend that is good with 3D design, or you personally are handy with this, the holder can be designed and printed easily. Alternatively, search AliX for saddle radar light holder and there are tons of options that will allow you to mount the radar on the saddle rails, which to me looks much better than a strap on to the seatpost.
This is just an example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002687365308.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5aaf0no10no1oF&algo_pvid=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0&algo_exp_id=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%214.77%213.38%21%21%214.88%213.46%21%40212e532617322794092774151e8e39%2112000035214453707%21sea%21MK%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=s8VnYQe1dJtM&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
It will allow you to mount the radar anywhere on the saddle rails as it has fully adjustable tilt angle.
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The seatpost is totally proprietary and you won't be able to find a replacement. As for the holder for the radar light, if you have a friend that is good with 3D design, or you personally are handy with this, the holder can be designed and printed easily. Alternatively, search AliX for saddle radar light holder and there are tons of options that will allow you to mount the radar on the saddle rails, which to me looks much better than a strap on to the seatpost.
This is just an example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002687365308.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5aaf0no10no1oF&algo_pvid=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0&algo_exp_id=7c7c7808-7f34-43f1-b156-189030e091d0-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%214.77%213.38%21%21%214.88%213.46%21%40212e532617322794092774151e8e39%2112000035214453707%21sea%21MK%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=s8VnYQe1dJtM&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Thanks my friend for the reply!
I have saddle rails holders for varia light but since I'm using a saddle bag it's not convenient so I was searching for somethong like KOM cycling copy or something. But that's a minor problem :)
BTW - bike rides like a dream and does everything you throw at it! Just like you said. ;) I crushed all my PR's with same effort on this bike. Cheers!
It will allow you to mount the radar anywhere on the saddle rails as it has fully adjustable tilt angle.
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I am thinking of doing a build with the Hygge Model S EPS molded frame. ;D I have been reading a little bit here and there in this thread, but since its 45 pages I have not read it all. Is there some usual problems or quirks that you all have discovered when building it up and how did you deal with it? For example I remember reading about the seatpost slipping, play in the headset or just trouble getting the spacers seated properly. I also wonder if I just can use bubble wrap or something similar to put the Di2 battery in the seatpost? And lastly, do you think it would be wise to ask for an extra seatpost and clamp since they are proprietary?
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I am thinking of doing a build with the Hygge Model S EPS molded frame. ;D I have been reading a little bit here and there in this thread, but since its 45 pages I have not read it all. Is there some usual problems or quirks that you all have discovered when building it up and how did you deal with it? For example I remember reading about the seatpost slipping, play in the headset or just trouble getting the spacers seated properly. I also wonder if I just can use bubble wrap or something similar to put the Di2 battery in the seatpost? And lastly, do you think it would be wise to ask for an extra seatpost and clamp since they are proprietary?
Seatpost slipping is solved with the new clamp design and the headset troubles are also being taken care of with the new c-ring. I had the plastic spacers and those fit great. New spacers might be metal and those might have a little trouble fitting right. You can buy the spacers assembly on Ali for a couple bucks, so it might be a good idea to get a plastic set and use the plastic upper spacer (directly under the handlebar)
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Thank you for the answer! I guess I will contact them and ask about pricing then, its seems to be cheaper to buy it from their official website instead of AliX.
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So my LBS built a bike with my Hygge frame that I'd received earlier this month. They said it went very smoothly. However, now that I've gotten it home, I noticed what seems like a lot of space between the final headset spacer and the frame. Talked to Hygge about it and they they think "it is not flat when screw the bolt", though I'm not sure what that means. Anyone have some thoughts on why this extra space?
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So my LBS built a bike with my Hygge frame that I'd received earlier this month. They said it went very smoothly. However, now that I've gotten it home, I noticed what seems like a lot of space between the final headset spacer and the frame. Talked to Hygge about it and they they think "it is not flat when screw the bolt", though I'm not sure what that means. Anyone have some thoughts on why this extra space?
Yep, that's too much space between headset cover and the frame. It should be a 1 mm gap between them , just enough so the cap is not rubbing the frame. This looks like your compression ring is maybe upside down or something but isn't certainly right! Get back to your LBS and explain that it should be as described - they should know better!
Take a look at the post #635 - this is how it should be done right. A member un the post #653 also has similar problem like yours so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the c-ring or the whole headset... Spacers have pins that fit into the lower spacer so they stack up and line nicely - headset cover too has a two pins that should align with the compression ring and maybe they are not fitted correctly into holes thus making the cover sits high and tilted. I would disassemble it and try to assemble it again.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sdcade2137e714789af6ae228ed84038eJ.jpg)
You see how the c-ring has a hole just slightly to the right of the blue marker? - it should align with the pin underneath the headset cover.
FOR NOW I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL FIXED!!!
Cheers
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Yep, that's too much space between headset cover and the frame. It should be a 1 mm gap between them , just enough so the cap is not rubbing the frame. This looks like your compression ring is maybe upside down or something but isn't certainly right! Get back to your LBS and explain that it should be as described - they should know better!
Take a look at the post #635 - this is how it should be done right. A member un the post #653 also has similar problem like yours so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with the c-ring or the whole headset... Spacers have pins that fit into the lower spacer so they stack up and line nicely - headset cover too has a two pins that should align with the compression ring and maybe they are not fitted correctly into holes thus making the cover sits high and tilted. I would disassemble it and try to assemble it again.
FOR NOW I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL FIXED!!!
Cheers
Yeah, it's the tilt that's more worrying than the gap...
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You see how the c-ring has a hole just slightly to the right of the blue marker? - it should align with the pin underneath the headset cover.
Cheers
So thank you for this diagram and feedback. I removed the handlebars and spacers so I could see exactly how the bearings, c-ring (i.e., split ring in the diagram), and headset cover (i.e., group cover in the diagram) were fitting. I also compared with Henry Chung's frame build videos to ensure everything had been placed correctly. I also ensured that the headset cover's pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.
After spending some time on this, I've concluded that there's something wrong with the interface between the headset cover and the c-ring. The headset cover simply won't descend enough to completely cover the c-ring and remove the gap. Here's an image of how the c-ring is fitting into the top bearing. This seems all correct:
(https://i.imgur.com/KAUgnrv.jpeg)
Now when I place the headset cover over the c-ring, this is as far as it goes:
(https://i.imgur.com/SIo8YHI.jpeg)
Again, I ensured that the headset pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.
I compared my c-ring with Henry's c-ring in the video of the new EPS frame (https://youtu.be/KIHfiQcE2E0?si=f2S1R8pCx5vyEW32&t=236) he did a couple months back. The look to be the same, but perhaps different color?
Am I missing anything here?
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Assemble everything and tighten everything. The gap will get smaller
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So thank you for this diagram and feedback. I removed the handlebars and spacers so I could see exactly how the bearings, c-ring (i.e., split ring in the diagram), and headset cover (i.e., group cover in the diagram) were fitting. I also compared with Henry Chung's frame build videos to ensure everything had been placed correctly. I also ensured that the headset cover's pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.
After spending some time on this, I've concluded that there's something wrong with the interface between the headset cover and the c-ring. The headset cover simply won't descend enough to completely cover the c-ring and remove the gap. Here's an image of how the c-ring is fitting into the top bearing. This seems all correct:
(https://i.imgur.com/KAUgnrv.jpeg)
Now when I place the headset cover over the c-ring, this is as far as it goes:
(https://i.imgur.com/SIo8YHI.jpeg)
Again, I ensured that the headset pin was aligning with the hole in the c-ring.
I compared my c-ring with Henry's c-ring in the video of the new EPS frame (https://youtu.be/KIHfiQcE2E0?si=f2S1R8pCx5vyEW32&t=236) he did a couple months back. The look to be the same, but perhaps different color?
Am I missing anything here?
Good. Now put all the spacers on and then the handlebar and compress it as much as possible and tighten first the cover bolt so it compresses everything down (I used 4 Nm). When everything is compressed then torque side bolts of the stem to 5 Nm. That should do. Or maybe the c ring is too thick because mine came in silver, not a black one.
Did you put the bearing ring at the bottom of the fork steerer first cause it makes 2 mm difference.
At least the headset cover is not tilted so it's a good sign. You're on a right way to solve it.
Hope i helped. Good luck!
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Good. Now put all the spacers on and then the handlebar and compress it as much as possible and tighten first the cover bolt so it compresses everything down (I used 4 Nm). When everything is compressed then torque side bolts of the stem to 5 Nm. That should do. Or maybe the c ring is too thick because mine came in silver, not a black one.
Did you put the bearing ring at the bottom of the fork steerer first cause it makes 2 mm difference.
At least the headset cover is not tilted so it's a good sign. You're on a right way to solve it.
Hope i helped. Good luck!
It's hard to imagine the headset cover going any lower. Seriously, I've tried to get it lower! Plus, Henry's videos show the headset cover nearly flush with the frame before the handlebar cover is placed and tightened down to compress the assembly. Possibly it could happen but here I run into a possible LBS mistake. It seems they cut the steerer tube so that it is exactly flush with the top of the handlebars, whilst most everything I've seen shows the top of the steerer tube about 3mm below. This is with the maximum number of spacers so I can't add any in order to raise the bars. Did they mess up?
(https://i.imgur.com/AjH95NK.jpeg)
Confirmed the bearer ring is at the bottom of the fork steerer.
Hygge showed me a short video of the c-ring/headset cover interface that shows the c-ring in black like mine. However, their headset cover appears to be slightly different. I've reached out again today and will probably get an answer tonight.
Thanks for your help!
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They did not cut enough no. You can use a standard round spacer on top of the handlebar with a round top cap to test it though (if you have them lying around)
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It's hard to imagine the headset cover going any lower. Seriously, I've tried to get it lower! Plus, Henry's videos show the headset cover nearly flush with the frame before the handlebar cover is placed and tightened down to compress the assembly. Possibly it could happen but here I run into a possible LBS mistake. It seems they cut the steerer tube so that it is exactly flush with the top of the handlebars, whilst most everything I've seen shows the top of the steerer tube about 3mm below. This is with the maximum number of spacers so I can't add any in order to raise the bars. Did they mess up?
(https://i.imgur.com/AjH95NK.jpeg)
Confirmed the bearer ring is at the bottom of the fork steerer.
Hygge showed me a short video of the c-ring/headset cover interface that shows the c-ring in black like mine. However, their headset cover appears to be slightly different. I've reached out again today and will probably get an answer tonight.
Thanks for your help!
Just like @TidyDinosaur wrote, your LBS didn't cut the steerer correctly! Your LBS is BS because they should have warned you about something's wrong and advise you on possible problem/solution and not let you leave the store with your head in the sack! >:( They are either incompetent or utterly lazy!
As already advised, you can put regular round headset spacer and top cap and try if everything compresses.
The only other thing I would suspect is that compression ring measures too thick. Hygge changes small parts like underwear, probably depending on where they can source them. They are not certainly producing them. We've seen different spacers, compression plugs, seat clamps, handlebars etc. so it would not surprise me if they changed something. Although in the end all those parts should be compatible on different bikes...
Personally, I would return the bike to your LBS and ask them to do the job properly. You paid for it probably so it's their job.
Just take your time, everything will be solved in the end, just don't force anything so you don't damage the frame. Soon you'll be enjoying riding the bike and be perfectly satisfied.
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Hi guys.
I've received my frame and quality control seems not the best...
Would you accept this?
(https://i.postimg.cc/qt9yWtNK/IMG-20241128-201923.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qt9yWtNK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8FFLydzD/IMG-20241128-202011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FFLydzD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fVqxjqZB/Screenshot-2024-11-28-20-34-55-762-com-miui-gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVqxjqZB)
Got me worried..
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Hi guys.
I've received my frame and quality control seems not the best...
Would you accept this?
(https://i.postimg.cc/qt9yWtNK/IMG-20241128-201923.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qt9yWtNK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8FFLydzD/IMG-20241128-202011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FFLydzD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fVqxjqZB/Screenshot-2024-11-28-20-34-55-762-com-miui-gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVqxjqZB)
Got me worried..
Yep, looks like a big one - contact Hygge and ask for replacement.
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Already contact them.. they say it's safe and if anything happens there's 2 years warranty... Wtf is this?!
https://youtube.com/shorts/p_-xBr9Zvko?si=iO_lBYCkMT8sn2Ac
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Already contact them.. they say it's safe and if anything happens there's 2 years warranty... Wtf is this?!
https://youtube.com/shorts/p_-xBr9Zvko?si=iO_lBYCkMT8sn2Ac
If anything happens you'll end up in a hospital! ;D Then the warranty is worth nothing. If they claim that it's safe to use it, I would suggest you to take the frame to your local bike shop and ask a mechanic to evaluate it. Even better if you have a carbon expert somewhere in your area. This is kind of delamination or bubbling and may or may not have impact on the frame. Seems it's right where the top tube merges with steerer tube and looks like some kind of resin bubbling or similar or like someone broke it. Maybe this happened while removing EPS liner...
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I think people are really starting to over-analyse these frames... It's the inside, it does not have to be perfect. Just check if the carbon is not too thin in that place (tap it, push it... )
It's a 500EUR frame for god's sake...
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I think people are really starting to over-analyse these frames... It's the inside, it does not have to be perfect. Just check if the carbon is not too thin in that place (tap it, push it... )
It's a 500EUR frame for god's sake...
Life is worth more than 500 EUR. (I don't say that the frame is not safe because I don't have the knowledge).
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If anything happens you'll end up in a hospital! ;D Then the warranty is worth nothing. If they claim that it's safe to use it, I would suggest you to take the frame to your local bike shop and ask a mechanic to evaluate it. Even better if you have a carbon expert somewhere in your area. This is kind of delamination or bubbling and may or may not have impact on the frame. Seems it's right where the top tube merges with steerer tube and looks like some kind of resin bubbling or similar or like someone broke it. Maybe this happened while removing EPS liner...
I dont know where you are finding a LBS that can identify carbon defects. I bet I could walk into any one of my LBS and no one in the place would have ever heard the word delamination. I went to the LBS closest to me once and asked if they had brake pads fit for a regular shimano road caliper and they took me to their mechanics, and I asked again and they all looked at me with pure confusion.
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I dont know where you are finding a LBS that can identify carbon defects. I bet I could walk into any one of my LBS and no one in the place would have ever heard the word delamination. I went to the LBS closest to me once and asked if they had brake pads fit for a regular shimano road caliper and they took me to their mechanics, and I asked again and they all looked at me with pure confusion.
Well, my local bike shop has two mechanics in each shift and they are dealing with different tiers of bikes - from kids bikes to those that are used in official races so I trust in their knowledge and experience. And if they don't know something they always try to get the information from other sources or from distributors. If you want your customers to be happy and satisfied then you need to go an extra mile. Bikes are expensive nowadays and servicing them is getting more and more complicated so the LBS's need to learn and adapt.
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My usual safety test procedure is to ride down a bumpy descent at about 65km/40mi plus speeds. If I survive all the bumps, cracks and corner braking, the carbon is solid! ;)
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What do you think of the quality of the headtube ? Should I be worried for the bearing and safety ?
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Hi guys.
I've received my frame and quality control seems not the best...
Would you accept this?
Got me worried..
I would not stress to much about that. Looks like resin peel from the mold and the fibers look intact, so there should be no issues. You can seal this with some automotive 2k resin (fiberglass resin) and be done with it. I would ride this. It is minimal cosmetic defect and has a low potential of failing catastrophically, in my opinion.
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Here's my bike build with the Hygge 2024 EPS frame. Paint is obviously custom and I give them high marks for a quality job. They said they'd send me a new, shorter bearing for the issue with the headset gap I mentioned earlier in this thread. Besides the frame, the crankset and BB is also Chinese, a Ryet and Kactus, respectively. Tires are 30mm front and 32mm rear (as measured) and easily clear, though rear is probably at max width.
(https://i.imgur.com/e8oAR78.jpeg)
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Here's my bike build with the Hygge 2024 EPS frame. Paint is obviously custom and I give them high marks for a quality job. They said they'd send me a new, shorter bearing for the issue with the headset gap I mentioned earlier in this thread. Besides the frame, the crankset and BB is also Chinese, a Ryet and Kactus, respectively. Tires are 30mm front and 32mm rear (as measured) and easily clear, though rear is probably at max width.
(https://i.imgur.com/e8oAR78.jpeg)
I like the name connection with Don Quijote's horse. ;) Wish you a many miles on it!
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Hello @everyone ;D
I ordered a new Hygge bike
I found a useful video with all the technic stuff : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s
I'm curious about the weight of the frame without the fork/handlebar/seatpost, could you help me ?
Thanks to Hygge Chinertown family & friends.
Clown1992.
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I'm curious about the weight of the frame without the fork/handlebar/seatpost, could you help me ?
This is size dependent, mine in size S with thru axle, front and rear hanger mounted was 1040-1050g and it was not the EPS version. EPS may be slightly lighter.
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Anyone riding the rim brake version?
There is a 160usd difference.........Tempted jus to get the rim brake version and save the money for some decent wheels.
Any advice?
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Anyone riding the rim brake version?
There is a 160usd difference.........Tempted jus to get the rim brake version and save the money for some decent wheels.
Any advice?
Yeah, why you would go for rim brake on a new bike is a mystery to me....
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Yeah, why you would go for rim brake on a new bike is a mystery to me....
Basically to use my spare carbon wheels which are all rim brake. I also have a mechanic rim brake groupset. If I was to buy a dics brake bike I'd have to get a groupet and wheels.
What is the braking like with the internal cabling going inside the cockpit?
Would you mind posting a photo of your bike to have a look? I only see dics brake ones here :-(
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Basically to use my spare carbon wheels which are all rim brake. I also have a mechanic rim brake groupset. If I was to buy a dics brake bike I'd have to get a groupet and wheels.
What is the braking like with the internal cabling going inside the cockpit?
Would you mind posting a photo of your bike to have a look? I only see dics brake ones here :-(
I have disc. You can get an Ultegra R8000 2x11 for 300-350 these days (second hand)
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Hi everyone!
Does anyone have experience with Hygge wheels? I'm considering buying Hygge frameset and wheelset pro version - on paper, they look pretty good...
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Hi everyone!
Does anyone have experience with Hygge wheels? I'm considering buying Hygge frameset and wheelset pro version - on paper, they look pretty good...
Also interested to hear in people's experience with their wheels.
Which model are you looking to buy? The one with carbon spokes?
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Which model are you looking to buy? The one with carbon spokes?
Yes, exactly this wheelset - Shun Pro version. The weight, appearance, and price are perfectly fine. I'm wondering about the quality?
Maybe someone owns it and can share their opinion?
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Yes, exactly this wheelset - Shun Pro version. The weight, appearance, and price are perfectly fine. I'm wondering about the quality?
Maybe someone owns it and can share their opinion?
Not specific to this wheelset, but 19mm inner width is really narrow for 2024.
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Yes, exactly this wheelset - Shun Pro version. The weight, appearance, and price are perfectly fine. I'm wondering about the quality?
Maybe someone owns it and can share their opinion?
They looked good but when I brought them to my LBS, he said that they were out of true and spokes made some cracking noise when he changed the tension.
I prefered to sell them.
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They looked good but when I brought them to my LBS, he said that they were out of true and spokes made some cracking noise when he changed the tension.
I prefered to sell them.
And did you disclose this to the buyer? If you knew wheels were defective when selling them but didnt say that, that seems like, well illegal
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And did you disclose this to the buyer? If you knew wheels were defective when selling them but didnt say that, that seems like, well illegal
Yes, the buyer took them to put on a home trainer.
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Not specific to this wheelset, but 19mm inner width is really narrow for 2024.
Yes, you better buy something wider. These rims are too narrow these days...
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Just for your reference, I bought Hygge MTB frame on Aliex last winter.
They sent me a wrong hanger so I asked them to resend.
Igonored like 10 days, I sent reminder and they said "sent" and nothing happened.
Be aware of after sales service quality.
Frame itself is good.
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Anyone riding the rim brake version?
There is a 160usd difference.........Tempted jus to get the rim brake version and save the money for some decent wheels.
Any advice?
It might not be any decent rim brake wheels to buy right now. No one is doing any research on that anymore.
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Yes, exactly this wheelset - Shun Pro version. The weight, appearance, and price are perfectly fine. I'm wondering about the quality?
Maybe someone owns it and can share their opinion?
I have the 50mm version with Shimano freehub.
1340 grams.
The quality is great but the rims is not able to drain water out properly.
I am still using the wheelset but have feedback to the aliexpress store so that they can improve the next generation rims..
Hello @everyone ;D
I ordered a new Hygge bike
I found a useful video with all the technic stuff : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s
I'm curious about the weight of the frame without the fork/handlebar/seatpost, could you help me ?
Thanks to Hygge Chinertown family & friends.
Clown1992.
Mine is Size S with the Charmelon Color.
Frame weight 1010g excludes hanger, seat clamp bolts with bottle cage bro.
Fork 349g
Seatpost 195g
Here is a picture of my finished bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/vs8PUqx.jpg)
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the rims is not able to drain water out properly
Does this issue with the rims significantly affect driving in the rain?
they can improve the next generation rims
Do you know maybe when we can expect them?
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Does this issue with the rims significantly affect driving in the rain?
Do you know maybe when we can expect them?
Hi it doesnt affect performance , just that wheels might be a little heavy .
I am not too sure if they will upgrade, they have yet to response to my feedback
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Hello @everyone ;D
I ordered a new Hygge bike
I found a useful video with all the technic stuff : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouwtq2pcVHc&t=23s
I'm curious about the weight of the frame without the fork/handlebar/seatpost, could you help me ?
Thanks to Hygge Chinertown family & friends.
Clown1992.
Just started building up my new Model S EPS, size M and thought I'd take photos and weigh everything, in case it helps someone out there. Building it up with mechanical 11s Ultegra and Yoeleo SAT C60 DB PRO NxT SL2.
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Hello everyone,
I'm coming for opionions on a not so fun topic, I was cleaning my bike and found this very concerning "chip" in the paint, after investigation I can't figure out if it is a clear coat chip or something serious. I'm very scared to ride it because it seems to be on the top and external side
I would love to hear some opinions
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Just started building up my new Model S EPS, size M and thought I'd take photos and weigh everything, in case it helps someone out there. Building it up with mechanical 11s Ultegra and Yoeleo SAT C60 DB PRO NxT SL2.
You set ml on the scale instead of grams
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You set ml on the scale instead of grams
That won't change the numbers though ;D
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That won't change the numbers though ;D
Technically, the density of carbon is not 1 so it is not equivalent. Physicist joke :D.
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Technically, the density of carbon is not 1 so it is not equivalent. Physicist joke :D.
I doubt it's a scale for carbon
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Does anyone change bolts in his/hers Hygge for titanium ones and have specification what to order?
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Hello everyone,
I'm coming for opionions on a not so fun topic, I was cleaning my bike and found this very concerning "chip" in the paint, after investigation I can't figure out if it is a clear coat chip or something serious. I'm very scared to ride it because it seems to be on the top and external side
I would love to hear some opinions
If you press on it do you feel some abnormal flex? I think I would be nervous too. I am not sure what you can do to lift all doubts outside of sanding to bare carbon and see if the crack was only on the clear coat or in the carbon. Disclaimer: I am absolutely not an expert
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Hello everyone,
I'm coming for opionions on a not so fun topic, I was cleaning my bike and found this very concerning "chip" in the paint, after investigation I can't figure out if it is a clear coat chip or something serious. I'm very scared to ride it because it seems to be on the top and external side
I would love to hear some opinions
I don't see a "chip" in the clearcoat there. Look at the last picture you posted. Inboard from the white mark is what looks like a jagged line - you can see the light perturbed there. That looks to me to be indicative of a crack. You can tap with a coin to see if that line there seems different than surrounding material; I'd lay a small wager that it will sound different. Subsequent to finding a tap indication I'd ask for a new frame.
25 years experience testing composites here. Really hard to be definitive from cell phone snaps, but I'd strongly recommend not riding that until someone who has seen failures like this (grizzled bike shop mechanic) can lay hands on it or if the tap test is obvious.
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Hey,
I have a different question: has anyone wrapped their frame with protective film? Does anyone know if a ready-made kit is available somewhere?
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Hey,
I have a different question: has anyone wrapped their frame with protective film? Does anyone know if a ready-made kit is available somewhere?
I just cut my own and covered both chain stays and the back of the seat-tube.
I doubt you will find a pre-made set...
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I doubt you will find a pre-made set...
Yes, I think so. I meant whether someone has found a set that fits from a different frame.
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Does anyone change bolts in his/hers Hygge for titanium ones and have specification what to order?
I have done that recently as the bolt on the seat post wedge and the bolts holding the FD mount were badly rusted after several wet rides on salty roads. I ordered from Wanyfa on AliX in gold colour to spice up an BOB frame.
The dimensions are:
Seat clamp M6x35 for the rear bolt M6x40 for the front (stock both are 35mm length and the front bolt was only holding on 2-3 threads which i did not like at all)
Seat post wedge M6x18
FD hanger M4x12 countersunk bolts 3 pieces, and this is the same bolt size that holds the RD hanger.
The bottle cage mouthing bolts did not suffer rust at all, i presume because they are stainless steel?? but will change them also. They are M5x15
The headset compression bolt is M5x30mm
I did not measure the stem bolts (because they did not rust) but should be M5x16 and also i will need nuts that go on the opposite side of the stem. there are complete sets of stem bolt and nut on ali.
Hope this helps.