With that geometry it proves we are evolving towards previous generation 29" hardtails. I need to check, but I believe my light-carbon hardtail I bought 10 years ago has compatible stack, reach and sloping. The only difference it was 300gr lighter.
Stack an reach for both forks the Same? But other fork is 20mm shorter?
1240 and 410g if i read that right? what size is that, M?
Does a storage pouch come with the frame as you said it is not just a hole in the frame? And how big is the storage?
And lastly is your contact just the website?
Its a Mondraker Arid. GEO basically lines up perfectly.
After reading the geo reviews of the Mondraker and seeing the weight of the frame I am likely looking for something a bit more racy to complement my Carbonda 696.
After some chatting with Mondince I decided to buy the frame.
It should be ready for shipping in 25 days. I'll keep you updated
I could never use this frame. The reach is extreme for the sizes. And seat tube and head tube is very short for frame size that would possibly fit. Also quite big size steps between the sizes. Shame, because it really looks nice - and I do like that the angles does not change between sizes.
Reach wise it's not too different from the tideace gv201, but at least the stack is not that low.
If you have a look at how the mondraker arid (same geo) is assembled, they use 70 or 80mm stems.
I think longer reach and short stems is a good combo on gravel bikes because the short stems gives back a bit of reactivity that you'll lose when slacking the head tube angle, and I want an open head tube angle to avoid toe overlap and have some more stability at slow speed when offroading.
As for the short seat tube, I agree, for an AERO frame I'd like a more horizontal top tube, that will also give some more space inside the main triangle for a frame bag, having a lot of seatpost sticking out should help with comfort though.
I'll see how it'll look when finished
This looks really good! Keep us posted!I much prefer the g069; it looks great and is one of the best frames money can buy!
I just assembled a gravel bike based on SP Cycle G069. Darn! this Mondince one looks a lot sexier.
They cancelled the fender mounts to maximize stiffness (I'm good with this)When I ordered the frame I asked to avoid drilling the frame in that place as it looks a concentration point for mechanical stress; good to hear I wasn't wrong 8)
Anticipated batch completion date October 2, 2025
Reach wise it's not too different from the tideace gv201, but at least the stack is not that low.
If you have a look at how the mondraker arid (same geo) is assembled, they use 70 or 80mm stems.
I think longer reach and short stems is a good combo on gravel bikes because the short stems gives back a bit of reactivity that you'll lose when slacking the head tube angle, and I want an open head tube angle to avoid toe overlap and have some more stability at slow speed when offroading.
As for the short seat tube, I agree, for an AERO frame I'd like a more horizontal top tube, that will also give some more space inside the main triangle for a frame bag, having a lot of seatpost sticking out should help with comfort though.
I'll see how it'll look when finished
There is something weird in the geometry chart. The Tideace Noah GV201 size 54 has 125 mm head tube and 400 mm fork, and the stack is 562 mm. The FM316 size S has the same 125 mm head tube and the same 400 mm fork and the stack is 573 mm. The FM316's head tube angle is slacker than the Noah, which should make the stack lower, not higher than the Noah.
I actually quite like this geometry ... for a road bike. For a gravel bike I think it is too progressive, but probably designed around short stem lengths. This frame is in line with the Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 when it comes to reach and seat tube angle, albeit with a much taller stack. I personally wish for a chinese road frame with this kind of geometry.
I actually quite like this geometry ... for a road bike. For a gravel bike I think it is too progressive, but probably designed around short stem lengths. This frame is in line with the Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 when it comes to reach and seat tube angle, albeit with a much taller stack. I personally wish for a chinese road frame with this kind of geometry.
I looked long and hard at this frame or the velobuild aero gravel for the same reason.I actually have the VB Aero gravel, but haven't ridden it yet. I probably won't use it as a road bike, though. One major difference from the Noah Fast 3.0 is that the VB has a chainstay length of 425, while the Noah has 407. Also, not quite as steep STA. Will absolutely try mine with large slick tires on the road, but still on the lookout for a new road frame.
I think if you put road forks on the VB it could be a winner.
I actually have the VB Aero gravel, but haven't ridden it yet. I probably won't use it as a road bike, though. One major difference from the Noah Fast 3.0 is that the VB has a chainstay length of 425, while the Noah has 407. Also, not quite as steep STA. Will absolutely try mine with large slick tires on the road, but still on the lookout for a new road frame.
Looked at the VB 368, but not a fan of many things about that frame, and also it is not nearly as "progressive" as the Noah.
Good luck with the 368! I am actually considering the LTK 266-D-SL based on the glowing reviews in that topic :P But not 100% sold on the argument that frame aero doesn't really matter, and that aero looking does not equal actual aero (though I am a firm believer that position on the bike is king when it comes to aero). Kind of hard for the aero weenie in me to go for a frame seemingly without aero credentials ...
I didn't like the change in geometry, especially because it changed after placing the order.
Having a 24 mm increase in reach is a lot.
411mm reach with 563mm stack is pretty extreme for a size S gravel bike for me, also the 85mm BBdrop, same as the new Specialized Diverge, will lead to more pedal strikes riding offroad.
Canyon bike sizing is a bit weird IMHO, a size M bike is huge, I'd use a size XS canyon when for most other brand I'm on a M or an S.
If you compare the size XS grail it has a 385mm reach and 556mm stack, a lot lower than the original fm316 geometry but the reach figure is almost the same.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to have my frame delivered, from your pictures it looks quite good, how's the paintwork quality and finishing?
Unfortunately, there's no easy adjustment for lower BB other than going to 160mm cranks 🤭 In reality though, how often are you pedaling through turns while banked on gravel? Happens in road on rare occasions...usually while racing.
Hey folks
Probably a daft question, but do you just email them to order?
Cheers!
Finally had a chance to take a look in the box, here's the hardware they included....
Any chance of using the forum image function as Imgur is blocks UK users?
My frame arrived eventually, I'm quite impressed with the paintjob, it looks very well done
Frame and fork are quite well finished, seatpost looks a bit cheap but nothing to worry about
Also the frame storage it's not just a cutout but an bathtub shaped insert inside the downtube, everything seems allright
I'll just to measure everything and make it work now
Hey folks
Probably a daft question, but do you just email them to order?
Cheers!
Have you had a chance to measure the clearance for tires that are at least 50mm wide? How much space in mm is left between the tire and a frame?
Rear well...estimated 8mm, again lining up with lkip's measurement:
Just curious, do the images I hosted on imgbb.com work for UK users?
Looks great! Can't make it out... what color is that? (chocolate?) Hilarious amount of clearance... seems you could fit 32inch wheels w/ road tires ;DIt's candy red gloss trasparent paint over raw carbon.
Can you try to fit 8mm allen key... it fits?
This frame looks really nice. A few more mm of clearance in the rear would be nice but this could work.
Are these measurements for the 395mm axle-to-crown fork?
What about chainring clearance?
It's candy red gloss trasparent paint over raw carbon.
With the awful neon light in my basement doesn't look red but outdoor with sunlight it's really nice.
I was hoping for a slighlty brighter red color but it's sleeker this way
It is really nice frame indeed. I think the geometry looks very progressive and most gravel bikes turn this way in few years. Will probably place an order too...
Anyone tried to ride the frame so far? How is it?
Thanks for posting the picture!
Do you think the seat tube in the photo looks slacker than the geometry chart would suggest?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010174494247.html appeared on AliWith the Ali 11/11 sales coming up this could potentially be very good value.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010174494247.html appeared on AliThis one has completely different fork blades without flip-chip. I guess it is just the OEM at this point.
I contacted Mondince and was quoted 662 USD for the frame in black glossy paint shipped to Finland, delivered duty paid. Not bad! Now I have to just figure out the tyre clearance issue.
Look at page 4 and 5 for rear clearance measurements. Looks about the same as a Noah.Yeah I saw the pics, what I meant was that I wanted to compare the measurements to my Noah. If anything, the rear clearance on the Noah looked a tiny bit smaller from side to side – by a millimetre or two, although my measurements were probably not that precise.
Looks Great!
What size tire/rim width and what does the clearance in the rear look like?
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.Congratulations on the build.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
Congratulations on the build.
I'm also waiting for two FM316 frames and was a little skeptical, but now that I've seen your build, it's fantastic.
I wanted to ask you a few questions:
what brand and type of bottom bracket did you use?
As a crankset, did you use a standard DUB spindle with a single chainring with how many teeth? Do you think it's possible to build a 48 or 50 mm single chainring with a wide axle?
What size is the bike and how tall are you?
What size is the saddle height?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to take this opportunity to understand a few things about the frame.
Took the FM316 out to my local hammer-fest (100% tarmac). Here's the Strava activity (https://www.strava.com/activities/16359032134/analysis/2568/8322). 11mi/18km commute to and from. Received several compliments and inquiries, which is always gratifying ;D
For comparison, my previous gravel bike was an Ari Shafer (M) (https://bikeinsights.com/bike-geometries/61bbdd8ee7d6df0021153a26-2022-ari-bicycles-fezzari-shafer-base-m). Same touchpoints, same wheels (45mm deep, 50mm tires w/ Vittoria liners) which gives a good isolated assessment of the frame. It came in at 19lbs/8.6kg (w/ pedals), about 5% lighter.
The FM316 has a smaller trail (-10.5mm) and considerably less wheelbase (-39mm) so it's no surprise it felt much more comparatively like a road bike. What surprised me is how supple and less harsh it felt given the more aggressive geometry.
The bike also "feels" fast. Even with 50mm tires w/ liners I had no problem handling surges. This ride has quite a number of stop lights (19 tonight) but still averaged 22.1mph/35.5kph needing just 199w/263NP (I'm 70kg) and a low RPE (tapering for race on Saturday).
IMO the "aero" designation is well-deserved. To illustrate, here's a 36s segment on a slight decline (only -2.3% avg) where I did 0 pedal revs and *passed* other riders on road bikes in full slipstream. Notice the uptick in speed using 0 power:
Sure, I was partially tucked but still impressed how much more quickly I gained speed while others soft-pedaled, in-draft, on faster road tires. Again... I'm on 50mm w/ liners!
The true test will be on actual gravel this Saturday. I hope to get some drone shots on trails after the race.
Looks Great!50mm tires (measured)
What size tire/rim width and what does the clearance in the rear look like?
How much seatpost is left inside the frame?
Oh and do they offer some kind of pouch for the storage compartment or do you just throw your stuff in?
I'm 175cm tall and size S is perfect.
Saddle height 685-690mm
Do you have a toe overlap with this?
What's with that 85,5mm BB drop for FM316?That's the general trend towards MTB domain, will increase top speed and off-road control too. That's why by default they recommend shorter cranks
Most of the frames I checked have 75mm BB drop, some of them 80mm. Isn't 85,5 too much?
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.This bike build looks stunning.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
Thanks! I also ordered 2 (S for me, XL for a friend) and will likely pull the trigger on an L for another friend. Leaving shortly on a maiden 3hr ride with a local fast group and can't wait!
No worries on the questions... keep 'em coming!
In your size, assembled with Sram Force XPLR, how much does the complete bike weigh?
How much do the bare wheels weigh, and what model are they?
8) 8)
Some shots after the race:
Hi! I agree with the opinion that the bike looks great.
I have two questions. Please tell me what is your height, frame size (If I'm not mistaken, it's a S) and stem length.
And I'm also interested in the screw hole (for fixing the trunk) in the crown of the fork
Some shots after the race:
Didn't you have enough shots during the race?!
Awesome bike!
I was (trying to) make a joke about the fact that you did actual fireball shots during the race, but I would love to see more photos as well :)
Thanks for the pics and updates CJ! Much appreciated.
I will probably also go for this frame. At first I was hoping for some black Friday deals for the Propain Terrel, but the higher end builds are now out of stock (EU). Only not sure if I should go for the FM316 or FM326 model. I have a MTB background and this will be my first gravel bike (or any drop bars bike for that matter). Not really looking for races, but going for longer distances and some bikepacking in the future. The less aggressive position on the FM326 will be an easier transition I guess. Any thoughts?
Today was my 3rd ride on the FM316, 1st on gravel at a race in West Texas. The bike was amazing. As reported in my 1st ride on tarmac (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg96203.html#msg96203), it feels very much like a road bike while maintaining compliance and stability. I felt in full control on loose turns amidst a pack, managed washboards without much discomfort, and descended w/ ease. It accelerates much better than what I was previously used to. In short, it performed flawlessly. (I, on the other hand, did not (https://www.strava.com/activities/16397044048/overview))
Some shots after the race:
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExanhleWlicTZ3Nm1ya3NpZGx5bnBscjJiM3QzejA4dHpvZTMwczNudiZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/GXs8BrRsjIuOlnPCFT/giphy.gif)
(https://i.ibb.co/PGQ4QTHb/IMG-1817.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ch1NgPFd/IMG-1819.jpg)
I pulled the trigger and ordered FM316.
I liked CJ's bike so much that I ordered the same color (sorry CJ! ::))
Love the bike! What outfront mount solution do you have?
Great photos CJ!
Any further thoughts? Curious how you're finding that steep seat tube - I'm finding that quite an attractive proposition :-)
Finally completed my bike.
Kn a very quick test on my commute the bike feels good, front it's very stable but it's still responding quite quickly to any input from the handlebar. I'm using an 80mm stem I had lying around but there's still some work to do on my fit on the bike.
I'll be testing it properly in the weekend
Looks great! Which tires are you using? I'm waiting for one (from Spcycle) and I want to use 700x50c tires with a GRX mechanical 2x groupset. Do you think there is enough clearance for that with the front derailleur?I'm using maxxis rambler 45mm on 23mm internal width vision wheels (to be upgraded).
I'm using maxxis rambler 45mm on 23mm internal width vision wheels (to be upgraded).
I don't have any close up picture for the front derailleur but I think 50s tyres will fit no problem.
I am looking to get a Mondince FM316 in XS, I was told the molds are not ready for another 40 days. I currently ride a 52CM Santa Cruz Stigmata and a 51CM Cervelo S5 and I am 5'6" tall. The sales person I have been in contact with keeps trying to push me towards a size small but everything thing in the geo chart compared to my current bikes is telling me to wait for the XS. Any insight from current owners?
Thank you!
Thanks for the pics and updates CJ! Much appreciated.
I will probably also go for this frame. At first I was hoping for some black Friday deals for the Propain Terrel, but the higher end builds are now out of stock (EU). Only not sure if I should go for the FM316 or FM326 model. I have a MTB background and this will be my first gravel bike (or any drop bars bike for that matter). Not really looking for races, but going for longer distances and some bikepacking in the future. The less aggressive position on the FM326 will be an easier transition I guess. Any thoughts?
I pulled the trigger and ordered FM316.
I liked CJ's bike so much that I ordered the same color (sorry CJ! ::))
Hi, is the stem clanp diameter standard 1 1/8 ?Yes, standard round 1 1/8
I'm planning to buy two Mondice/Spcycle FM326 frames:
one for myself (190 cm) and one for my wife (185 cm).
I'm completely unsure about the sizing because the reach on the FM326 is much longer than on our current Scott Addict RC (L and XL). The difference in frame length is huge.
I’m considering several options:
Two size L frames (one with an 80 mm stem, one with a 90 mm stem)
-One size M and one size L
-One L with a 70 mm stem and one XL with an 80 mm stem
-One top of that, I’m also lost between choosing a Wheeltop electronic groupset or an LTWOO one.
If you were in my situation, which one would you choose: Wheeltop or LTWOO? And which frame sizes would you pick for 190 cm and 185 cm riders?
I'm planning to buy two Mondice/Spcycle FM326 frames:
one for myself (190 cm) and one for my wife (185 cm).
I'm completely unsure about the sizing because the reach on the FM326 is much longer than on our current Scott Addict RC (L and XL). The difference in frame length is huge.
Hello,
I'm building my first gravel bike and I'm considering these frames. Up to now, I’ve only ridden road bikes and a cyclocross bike in winter. I'm trying to replicate my road position as much as possible, but both frames have too high a stack in size L, which I can’t compensate for with a 100 mm −17° stem.
If I go one size smaller (M) on the FM326, buy an offset seatpost, and use a normal-looking 110 mm -10° stem/integrated handlebar, it should work — or am I missing something? Maybe toe overlap?
Height: 186 cm
Inseam: 90 cm
Thanks for any advice
Finally got back after a couple weeks in Tucson, AZ. Here's my friend's XL FM316. He's 175cm/6'5" tall
I suppose your friend is 195cm rather than 175. That's a nice looking bike and the first XL ive seen. I ordered XL myself from spcycle shop on ali, the price was too tempting. I'm going to swap out my current velobuild aero grav some time during the winter.
Jumped on the bandwagon, picked up the SPCYCLE G026 on Aliexpress for like $450 tax in. Not a huge fan of the looks of it, but in the market for a gravel frame, virtually identical geometry to Canyon grail, and couldnt resist the price lol.
Im 183cm with a 86mm inseam, picked up a size M based on the Canyon sizing chart.
Looks good, how much extra room is there for bigger tyres?I could just fit a 6mm hex key in the seatstays. Looks quite identical to what I had previously on my Tideace Noah.
Do you think integrated handlebar would fit FM316 as manufacturer recomends separate stem and bar? Something like KOCEVLO X01. Any suggestions?I see no reason why they wouldn't.
Here it is built up, the LBS was super fast. No problems with the BB, paint, brake mounts etc. Clearance with 48mm Thunderos on 25IW rims (wam just under 50mm) is really great. I will ride it on tarmac this afternoon and tweak the fit a bit. Really loving how this looks, the back end and top tube is quite slender and I really like how that pairs with the bigger rubber. The Tideace Noah I had previously looked much more porky.
Hi, congratulations on the bike, also built with top-notch components. As for the crankset, did you use a standard SRAM or a longer Wide axle? Total weight and size of the bike?
Is there a spacer kit for fully integrated routing into the handlebar? All pictures seem to have a semi integrated solution with cables running through the headset but externally routed at the stem?
I just ordered a FM326 + fork without rivets, painted in PANTONE 5535 C. Now the wait begins!! ;Dwould love to see a picture, when you get the frame, as im thinking of a similar color. My roadframe is PT560C and a matching gravel bike could be nice ;D
My road bike is a similar green and I wanted a completely different colour so I can easily explain to my wife which bike I'm talking about.but now she knows you have differnt bikes. I can than say that i only have the green one ;)
Looks like CWind is reselling the FM326 model, with the longer fork, frameset now.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810089295233.html?spm=a2g0o.tm1000027200.7420763720.1.63351f71Pxm1eQ&afTraceInfo=1005010275609985__pc__recallUserLandingRecommendPage__7aJEqu5__1764855689040&aecmd=true&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Received my frame today.
I ordered on November 10, 2025, so shipping to Poland took less than 4 weeks.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/e8735d4f8a1d1.jpg)
EDIT:
After a closer look, I must unfortunately say that the quality control is very poor.
I can’t assemble seatpost wedge. It doesn’t fit because there is a large lump of resin where wedge should enter.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/1b21f937916db.jpg)
(https://zapodaj.net/images/c0a546c38285b.jpg)
Yikes, that is unfortunate. Hopefully they will make it right.
where did you ordered it?
I made the PO to Mondince on November 7 and seems I still need to wait 1-2weeks more until arrival to Spain…
They said it's not a resin but a glue and asked me to try to remove it with a knife...
I couldn't reach it with my fingers but improvised and created this tool. Some sandpaper glued to the tip of a thin screwdriver. This allowed me to get to the problematic spot and remove enough glue that the wedge now fits. Problem solved.
Here it is built up, the LBS was super fast. No problems with the BB, paint, brake mounts etc. Clearance with 48mm Thunderos on 25IW rims (wam just under 50mm) is really great. I will ride it on tarmac this afternoon and tweak the fit a bit. Really loving how this looks, the back end and top tube is quite slender and I really like how that pairs with the bigger rubber. The Tideace Noah I had previously looked much more porky.
Degree stem is that? Looking to have something sit flat and that looks flatIt's the FSA Afterburner -12° stem, very light and quite cheap.
Did you consider seat tube angle?
Yes, FM326 looks long when you are looking at the reach value. But it has 75 degrees seat tube angle. 1,4 deg more than Addict RC. Sounds like not much? I wouldn't say so.
For my 174cm and ~715mm BB to saddle top distance a difference of 1,4 degrees will move a saddle ~17 mm forward which in my opinion isn't insignificant.
Which size did you go with? I’m 176 with 81 inseam - so I pretty close to order a 316 in medium with Jack in raw carbon look
Which size did you go with? I’m 176 with 81 inseam - so I pretty close to order a 316 in medium with Jack in raw carbon look
I ordered an S and went with a 120mm stem. I think the M might be too tall.that should be an interesting ride, as the geometry is almost a canyon grail +-5mm and they use a 70mm stem on a S frame.
I wanted a sportier riding position, but the M paired with a shorter stem should also work if you want a more upright position.
120mm stem paired with 70.5 SA is a bit of a compromise and will need some time getting used to.
that should be an interesting ride, as the geometry is almost a canyon grail +-5mm and they use a 70mm stem on a S frame.
**WORD OF CAUTION RE: INTERNAL STORAGE COVER**
My internal storage cover (+cage and bottle) came off during a gravel race this past weekend. The locking lever kept moving to the open position regardless of how tight I pressed it in the locked position.
Root cause (with input from Mondince):
Rattle-induced opening of the latch caused by the lever coming in contact w/ the bottom of the bottle cage:
(https://i.ibb.co/RGBgy1WQ/12-10-2025-1-21-14-PM.jpg)
Solution:
1) Move the cage up
(https://i.ibb.co/7NKVfL8x/12-10-2025-1-21-07-PM.jpg)
2) Add an o-ring at external base of lever to add friction (it's a tad loose by default IMO)
(https://i.ibb.co/5h9q2WV3/12-10-2025-1-20-57-PM.jpg)
3) Add threadlock to lever assembly bolt
Mondince said they shortened the length of the lever. Hope this helps someone!
Are you still happy with your 316? I'm in dialog with Jack, but with I'm getting a bit second thoughts.
Ordered my 326 at the beginning of this week, what are good handlebar and carbon wheel brands?
I'm 183cm ordered a size M any recommendations on stem length or is a handlebar with stem unit a better option?
Looking to go for 45mm tires and SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 trying to get everything ready by the start of March.
Regards Cedric
Here’s a sneak peak that was sent to me 🤩I did receive mine too. Can't wait too see how it really looks outside :) It took them a few days more to paint than promised though
Here’s a sneak peak that was sent to me 🤩
Looks fantastic!
How much time since the order has passed before you got this info?
2 weeks or more?
EDIT: The red one as well. Is there some texture in the coloring?
Looks fantastic!
How much time since the order has passed before you got this info?
2 weeks or more?
EDIT: The red one as well. Is there some texture in the coloring?
Hi you all,
can anybody be so nice and tell me the diameter of the head tube/headtube cap and provide a picture of the headset cap. I try to find a solution to integrate the cables as much as possible. Or has anybody a recommendation for a matching semi or fully integrated stem?
Thanks a lot in advance and enjoy the holidays!
Those of you with SRAM builds, can you share which length you needed for the Bolts, e.g. Rear Flat Mount?
It would be great, since this could save me a potentiall delay and a few bucks for shipping of small parts later on.
I need to order a few parts now and could put them in the basket
What length cranks are you running? I am going from 170 on current rig to 160 on this due to the BB height170mm on a 2x grx crankset, pretty standard setup.
Hi all,
Im about to pull the trigger on a frame and was thinking about buying a stem and handlebar directly from Mondince.
Does anyone know about the quality of the complementary parts?
what is the max. tire size you are fitting on the rear?
I have Schwalbe G One R in 50mm, which on my 30mm rims measure around 51-52mm
and find a very very tight clearance on the chainstays, around 4mm
Finally managed to swap fork and test the bike also with the 420mm one
I did 600km with the 395mm fork and around 250km with the 420mm
FM316 with 395mm fork
-Ride feel is more similar to a road bike.
-Stable also downhill on gravel as you feel more "in" the bike rather than on top of it.
-Using the flip chip with 50mm rake steering feel was alright with cheaper aluminium wheels but using carbon Tagoola XPLR it's started to be a bit twitchy on uneven gravel, I'd probably switch to 45mm rake.
I'm using a negative 6 deg 80mm stem, which can give its contribution to the steering responsiveness.
-Main drawback of this configuration for me was ground clearance, no problem on flat gravel roads but on very easy trails with rocks and roots pedal strikes are quite frequent even if I ride carefully. I had to keep in mind ground clearance also pedaling in roundabouts on tarmac where I never had problems with the road bike.
170mm 2x grx cranks.
FM326 with 420mm fork
- Front end of the bike is definitely higher, I completely slammed the stem and I'll change it to a -17deg to lower it even further.
- The steering feels much more solid and precise especially on fast but uneven gravel.
- Agility of the bike is not compromised though, the feeling of being "in" the bike vanished but the bike feels more playful overall; agility is now more a side-to-side freedom of movement rather than linked to steering responsiveness.
- I tried my idiotic roundabout test and the limit of pedal strike is definitely higher now, it makes little sense but it gives me peace of mind when pedaling mid-corner.
- Drawback of this combo is mainly related to my positioning on the bike, I really liked the 75deg seat tube angle and now I have to run my saddle all the way forward on the rail to try and replicate the same position.
All things considered I think I like the 420mm fork more because it's more versatile for the type of terrain around here and overall the bike feels more playful.
The FM316 stack and reach figures with a higher BB would be ideal.
(https://i.ibb.co/0pgJz2gN/20251221-144401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wZ962g9H)
Where did you find these parts from them?
On the homepage I can see frames but nothing else (but perhaps that's just me)
I just asked the seller and he sent some drawings of stem and handlebar.
The price was only 80 USD extra wich sounded very cheap and made me a little scared about the quality.
Is the ground clearance really that low? I am using 172,5mm cranks and plan to use this frame not only with gravel tires but also with road tires (32mm nominal, approx. 34mm measured in reality) Has anyone measured the height from the ground to the center of bottom bracket? And of course, what is tire high that you using.
Thanks Václav
Thought this might help others with their builds. Does anyone have experience w/ this type of headset cap?
The provided cap has 4 holes w/ 4 open caps pre-installed and 2 closed caps provided separately
(https://i.ibb.co/zW36hJXm/11-07-2025-10-00-38-AM.jpg)Perhaps the cap would align better using different holes, routing the front hose around the steerer tube, or both?
- You'll only want 2 open caps if running electronic shifting (to prevent dirt/water from entering)
- You'll want to decide which holes are closed BEFORE installing headset/hoses/etc.
- In my case, the rear hose is routed through the left hole (to the right brake lever) while the front through the right
- The disparity in angle/tension caused the cap to settle in a skewed position
- I think this type of cap fares better with more spacers but my stem is pretty slammed
- Not an issue per se, more of an aesthetic thing
You may want to experiment before securing hoses.
(https://i.ibb.co/bkMPBX7/IMG-1794.jpg)
Hi! You can check 'Pedal Spindle to Ground Clearance' and 'Bottom Bracket Height' parameters here https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,&builds=,6952a53757482e001a4890bb,
Anyone having trouble trying to calculate stem length with the STA and the longer reach I would recommend putting all your existing fit numbers and the new ones in chat-gpt.
Surprisingly useful.
STA alone eats up 12mm of reach at my saddle height.
(https://i.imgur.com/idaosIU.png)
I am not familiar with this headset system either. It seems that the headset cap moves when you steer, rotating with the direction of steering. It also seems that any spacers above also rotate. Is this how a fully built bike works as well? And has it been an issue for anyone?
Also, forgive me if this was already discussed but I did not see any posts in a quick scan, but does anyone have issues with the cable bends for mechanical shifting, especially the sharp bend up to the front derailleur?
I am not familiar with this headset system either. It seems that the headset cap moves when you steer, rotating with the direction of steering. It also seems that any spacers above also rotate. Is this how a fully built bike works as well? And has it been an issue for anyone?
Also, forgive me if this was already discussed but I did not see any posts in a quick scan, but does anyone have issues with the cable bends for mechanical shifting, especially the sharp bend up to the front derailleur?
My Spcycle version of this frame just arrived. Size XL light purple metallic. I paid 578 USD for it including the paint job and tax-free shipping to Poland.
Overall it looks pretty good: no visible flaws in the carbon, everything fits really nice, paint job is nice. It comes with hanger, axles, headset and a headset cover with cable entries for a normal non-integrated stem, steatpost clamp but without a seatpost.
However there's one details that I'm sure going to annoy the hell out of me.
The frame should not have seatstay mounts for the rack just like the latest iteration of the Mondince frame and it "kind of" doesn't. It actually has blanked out mounts that were painted over. It probably not going to cause problems but I just hate how it looks.
I looked at the pictures of the frame on the spcycle website and it looks like it also has those blank mounts but hard to tell a 100%.
Interesting that this frame also appears to have the blanked off rack mount on the seat stay (edit: I watched the video and it might just be a reflection). What's the size and supplier?
Tyre size what you use? I hope that 2.1" thunderburt will fit, so i can use 395mm fork. Maybe burt front and 50mm g-one rear. Think that 50mm rake is better for burt.
I order both fork too.
Same gray color as C.J bike, but wiht glossy finnish.
My Tagoola XPLR wheels finally arrived yesterday, and I finished assembling the bike today. As pictured (with bottle cages, pedals, and Garmin mount), it weighs 8.4 kg.
I haven't ridden it yet, but I can't wait to try it out.
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Still need to source a set of wheels and handlebar. Anyone try fitting 29 MTB tires with this frame? like 29x2.2?
Nice build!
I'm planning to use the Conti Terra Hardpack too! I'm curious how you think they perform on pavement/gravel. Also, what's the width as measured on those rims? They're 32mm internal, right? Glad to see they fit. How much spare clearance is there?
Hi Pavlo.k, nice looking bike. May I ask of your height, inseam, seat height, stem length and how does your setup feel? Also if you have road bike how differently (if at all) have you set up your touchpoints?
I am 191/93 inseam/83-84 seat height and a bit torn between L/XL sizes. I would like to hear more from others of similar size how their setup looks and the thinking behind it. Thank you!
To be honest I hate these tires, I took them off last season after about 200km because they felt super sluggish. I just thrown them in because I didn't have any other tires lying around and wanted to finish the build but I didn't even put any sealant in and plan to replace them with tufo thundero 48. Hardpacks somehow test really well in rolling resistance and overall people seem to like them. For context I switched from the conti terra speed and those tires were rapid so maybe I'm just spoiled.
They measure 52mm on my rims and there's still room to go wider. id's say about 4mm on either side
Thanks! I was basically looking for the fastest rolling 50mm tire since I don't do a lot of "technical" gravel riding. Schwalbe doesn't make the 50mm G-One R Pro in black, and these were cheap/available which is how I ended up with them. Thankfully they're not too expensive if they don't end up working out.
I have some comments about the chainstay design, which I feel awkward and with room for improvement
don’t you have issues with hitting your heels? see image, I have added some protection pads
With my crankset having 48mm chainline and 152mm Q-Factor:
- the 40t chainring has lots of room to chainstay
- the 50mm tire is very tight to chainstay <4mm
- the crank is very close at pedals end to chainstays
with a regular road crankset (not wide) the problem should be worse
Thinking about one of these. Do people have head on shots of the frame? How is this in terms of aero? I do like the geo
bike ready to go!nice looking bike with fresh mud decorations :)
nice looking bike with fresh mud decorations :)
what crankset and chainring are you using?
First real ride yesterday on a 3h winter ride
I found to be very fast and silent, like riding on a magic carpet. I was very happy :) However feeling is not reactive, and frame has lateral flex specially on the front end. But so far I did not notice this negatively when cornering, could be positive? (like motogp bikes)
So no good for sprints but very good for maintaining high speeds with low effort.
Big part of this I assume is because of the wheels, I have the new Schwalbe G one pros in 50mm mounted on 30mm inner width rims and 45mm profile
Definitively not 50mm clearance on the rear, and you can suffer with mud. The wheel will roll, but the mud will build on the chainstay and will come to the chainring and transmission.
Finally after washing the bike I found water on the storage box, I think I will make a drill and possibly removing one of the walls to make box bigger
Edit: I’m 183cm tall and seat height is 79cm, and frame size L with 80mm stem is perfect
First real ride yesterday on a 3h winter ride
I found to be very fast and silent, like riding on a magic carpet. I was very happy :) However feeling is not reactive, and frame has lateral flex specially on the front end.
Just long and low for me.
I measured saddle-lever length from older bike. Can't take L-size. Headtube is too long.
I really think that 395 and 420mm forks really change the way the bike handles.
I don't try 420mm fork, if there is not anything strange with 395. I have both.
Actually a bit strange if 395mm works well. That would mean you could also swap a shorter fork to mondraker arid too.
Hi !
I am planning on building a road adventure / light gravel bike with 2x11 transmission.
Do you guys know if it possible to fit a Zrace unchained 50-34 crankset with the frame ?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A)
The chainline is given to 47mm on the website of Mondice but I don't know how to tune it.
Cheers !
The chainline of the 2x of the ZRace Unchained is 44.5 mm. GRX 2x is 47 mm. With a road FD you'll limit the tire clearance, I guess you could fit in a 45 max. And not sure if the chainring will hit the chainstay with 50-34 and being 2.5 mm inboard, I'll try to take a look at my GRX 48-31 and will try to guess if the road crankset will clear it.
PS: I've checked, and I think a road 50/34 wouldn't hit the chainstay (can't say 100% for sure, but based on the clearance I have, I think it'll fit). You'll only have the problem of reduced tire clearance with the road front derailleur.
I'm also interested in this frame.
What I'm curious about is, are you guys sizing down? Normally I'm a classic large with 185 cm and 87 inseam.
And, is this frame done by tantan or not? As tantan still has the rack mounts and only the short fork on site.
Same for the price, simillar to tantan/serpah/sp?
Thanks
I would use Bike Insights to compare the geo to other bikes you like the fit of.
Here's the one for the shorter fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/689cb67b11f2e8001a0c85b2-mondince-fm316
And the longer, 420mm fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/6917726c3de161001abe646a-mondince-fm326
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
Tire clearance doesn't work that way. With a GRX FD I could easily fit 65mil tires if my frame allowed it
I'm using a 12 spd 105 derailleur on mine as I had one spare and it doesn't effect tyre clearance at all.
If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.
There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
Hi folks, is there supposed to be a crown race on the fork? Or does the lower bearing interface directly with the carbon?
Edit: Did some more research and I see with IS bearings and an angled bearing seat on the fork, a crown race isn't necessary. :)
What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.
My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.
Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)
The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.
Components I used:
Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm
Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120
Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)
Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622
Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset
--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)
Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.
haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube
I’m amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?
I guess the question is what you accept as clearance in regards to potential mud and water coming in. I think this is fine but can understand that people want to have their headset closer to the frame. After all, a you could use the stock bearing with a 3rd party headset.
I made some pictures with zoom, so it might look like a large gap when in reality it is nearly not noticeable.
I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it’s a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html
which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).
With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.
That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it’s a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
With such bearing the rubber cover sits well in place with no rubbing
mondince 326, who has M at 182cm and 89cm inseam? Is it better to go for L?
Maybe somebody got picture ?
haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube
I’m amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?
I received my frame two weeks ago and started building straight away. I did end up missing a few parts to complete the build, so currently waiting for that to arrive.
Attached a pic of the current state. ;D
Received the frame yesterday.
Paint is great, bottom brackets threads easily by hand. Brake surfaces might need faced, we will see.
I did test fit the bigrock handlebars, but with the included compression rings there is a decent gap. Will need to see if I can grind them down to minimize that, unless others have a good idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/8L9JlJ9.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4lY5Wlh.png)
Waiting on cranks and tires, no hurry here though as the weather is dreadful for at least the next 1.5 months.....
Any tips for how to spec it please?
Current spec on the Ridley is a 100mm stem
I added a 52mm O ring over the headset seal and between the cap, fits perfectly and seals everything.
After a first attempt with some hiccups, I consider today's ride my first test ride with the bike.
Just a standard oring? Seems like a good idea.
You may try measure the rim, not the tyre.
Tyre tolerances are ... well, not good.
1 mm offset at a lever of 350 mm is not a lot.
Any cycling industry itself is not well known for good tolerances.
With the rim it is about them same proportion as with tire. non drive side about 19mm vs 15mm on the drive side.
Hi,
I got my frame (mondince FM326, size large) a few weeks ago and as I wanted to install my 2.1 Mezcal Tires in the I noticed back that I got way less space on the drive side to the chain stays, than on the non-dive side. That would result in not beeing able to use that size of a tire, since it would get to close for comfort.
Now my question is: Has anyone of you experienced the same issue? If, yes how did you solve it? My suggestion is, that there is some exess resin or paint beneath the UDH hanger, which makes it sit not completely perfect and therefore resulting in my tire sitting at an angle.
I also tested it with different wheels to make sure, the wheel is not the problem.
In the attached pictures you can see it with a 40mm road tire: on the drive side I can fit a 6mm hex key, on the non drive side a 8mm fits in.
Have same problem in L frame
‘patched’ by adding a washer between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem
In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can’t be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH
Have same problem in L frame
‘patched’ by adding a washer between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem
In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can’t be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH
I now sanded away al the overspray in every critical area, changed the UDH hanger and also tried different torques when tightening the hanger. All of it with limited success, the difference got slightly less, but not enough.
I also measured my wheels axle which comes out at 142.5. I have a fair amount of play as well with this before tightening the througaxle - so the washer solution will be my next try.
How did you manage the hanger to still sit flat with the washer inbetween? And how thic is that washer?
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpostHey I see you got a pretty large size. What is your opinion on lateral stiffness? I got a size L and am not sure if it is too flexy..
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Just got mine. Anyone feel like the BB is very flexy under power?
Hey I see you got a pretty large size. What is your opinion on lateral stiffness? I got a size L and am not sure if it is too flexy..
I didn't have a chance to properly test ride it yet. I'll report backSounds good
Hey Alex, is the flex visible just pressing on the BB while standing still? If so, possible you can take video?Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
One of my best ever 50 min power https://www.strava.com/activities/17219729904
Thanks
Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
One of my best ever 50 min power https://www.strava.com/activities/17219729904
Thanks
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?
Hi all,
I’m waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I’ve already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you’ve tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
Hi all,
I’m waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I’ve already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you’ve tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
I would also have a tire-related question:
For those running 50mm tires: how much clearance ist there above the tire to the seat tube?
Would it be enough to squeeze in mudguards/fenders?
(I guess the fork is not problem.)
Hi all,
I’m waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I’ve already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you’ve tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
Hey man I have been looking everywhere for this groupset, I happen not to be stateside I know the answer would be your LBS but where the heck can I get this tasty groupset? Do you have an online link or an e mail where I could ask for a price qoute?
Where are you located? Any reason you can’t buy it online?
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
It seems to be very hard to find this groupset apart from u folks in the USA as it is fairly very new. Which retailer or e tailer did you purchased it from? Which biggest online bike dealers in the USA carries all the major inventory of SRAM I am from the middle east and most of out stuff here is only Shimano. I think SRAM is very abundant in the USA. Very hard to find SRAM force XPLR 13 speed groupset. Can u please give me some leads?You might want to check if https://r2-bike.com/ ships to your country.
Here's a pic of the seat stay/seat tube clearance. These are 50mm Conti Terra Hardpacks that measure out to about 52.5mm WAM on 32.5mm internal width rims. I'd say <1cm at the narrowest point.Thank you! Looks tight, but might be doable :D
Hey man I have been looking everywhere for this groupset, I happen not to be stateside I know the answer would be your LBS but where the heck can I get this tasty groupset? Do you have an online link or an e mail where I could ask for a price qoute?
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
hi folks, love all your builds! No one with a full integrated mud guard here? Is there a possibility to mount it on the rear on three points?
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
That shoe thing can happen if you rotate too much outward with the hip.Are you running wide cranks or standard road? In the end it’s about a proper q factor
If ever, it happens on my right side and acts as a reminder for me to do the hip mobility drills 😁
It's nothing that bothers me or stops the pedaling flow in any way, I guess SPD allows this leeway whereas SPD SL or Look road cleats don't let you go as far sideways
If it happens, I correct my position on the bike and off we go.
I have 165mm cranks and size 46 shoes.
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
What chainline you use with leese crankset? grx/sram wide or normal road?standard road chainline
Maybe the 46-51 combination will start to make noise if use sram wide chainline?I dont have any noises at 46-52 gear....Its quiet. I did not count chain length though...I've reused old drivetrain combo that i was using with Twitter Gravel X. Only change was Wheeltop GEX(long cage) -> SRAM S1000 ( you need about 2,5mm spacer to a jockey wheels to be able to use this with not T-TYPE cassete) / FORCE levers.
Are you running wide cranks or standard road? In the end it’s about a proper q factor
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
very cool frameset. thinking of replacing my tideace GR201.
can anyone confirm what's the max clearance on the 395mm fork? can it clear a 2.2 tyre?
It's got standard mounts on the seat stays and behind the bottom bracket. However the front fork doesn't have mounts.
My fork has three mounts:
- Below the crown
- One smaller bolt on each side, below the three cargo bolts
btw: who claimed to love the seat post mount?
My bolt fell down the seat tube and it looks like it is stuck between frame and BB.
I am cursing this construct right now
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
There is a new frameset at mondince, FM336.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-toray-t800-and-t1000-high-stiffness-storage-space-full-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-fm336
Biggest change seems to be new geometry, head tube steeper at around 71.5 depending on frame size. As well different, magnetic storage box cover.
Reach and stack seems to be significantly shorter as well.
There is a new frameset at mondince, FM336.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-toray-t800-and-t1000-high-stiffness-storage-space-full-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-fm336
Biggest change seems to be new geometry, head tube steeper at around 71.5 depending on frame size. As well different, magnetic storage box cover.
Reach and stack seems to be significantly shorter as well.
Heads up, the FM326 was updated with a new fork w/ the same 420mm A-C and 50/55mm offset measurements
Teflon tape and grease work really well with the T47 bottom bracket. Removes unnecessary play from the thread.Which play?
Need to bleed the brakes and wrap the bars but she is rolling
Very cool looking. What color is that?
And did you apply stickers on the frame or was it part of the paint job?
It seems that factory added two threadless carbon seatpost adapters instead of one threaded and one threadless, so there's no way to secure the seat that I have now :( Anyone had this problem?
Other than that - assembly was a success!
It seems that factory added two threadless carbon seatpost adapters instead of one threaded and one threadless, so there's no way to secure the seat that I have now :( Anyone had this problem?
Other than that - assembly was a success!
Beautiful. How much was the paint job and total cost for frame shipped?435$ frame, 150$ for the paint job, 150$ shipping (europe), 30$ paypal fee = 765$
Great build mate! What's size and weight? Pick assembly to your saddleSize L, 7.9 kg without saddle and pedals (~600 g), so should be around 8.5 kg final build
What the max chainring size for the 326 in 1x?
Still waiting for my frameset but received Tagoola XPRL wheelset and pretty much all other parts.
50mm SCHWALBE G-One R Pro Supra V-Guard (black) measure at 52.5-52.8mm 32iw/41ew @ 3 bars (just setup as tubeless)
50 mil tires at 3 bar?Yeah, I will definitely not be running them like this :D I just had them setup tubeless and then I usually leave overnight at 3bar to see if nothing is leaking or such.
That's sounds like a lot, I run my rx pro under 2 bar (also tubeless) on 28mm inner width wheels
Hey folks
Has anyone used this on the road with road tyres and would give some feedback please.
Thanks!
I'm wondering, what's the delivery time to Europe in your cases ?
I'm wondering, what's the delivery time to Europe in your cases ?For me, it was about a month as well.
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
This bike is stupidly fast to handle. Like a cross bike. Have to test more. And those burts are faaaaast.
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
Nice build! Which wheelset are you currently running? 8)
For me, it was about a month as well.Correct me if i'm wrong, by month you are telling the whole process right? I Was wondering only about shipping to Europe. Becausue i've ordered framset almost month ago, last weekend they done painting in wrong colour, so the shipping will be delayed by week ...
By air freight, in case you are wondering about the potential of having the parcel stuck on a ship
Correct me if i'm wrong, by month you are telling the whole process right? I Was wondering only about shipping to Europe. Becausue i've ordered framset almost month ago, last weekend they done painting in wrong colour, so the shipping will be delayed by week ...
Which is the most agressive frame from Mondince with geometry close to road bike? Im looking for a do it all allroad aero bike which take larger tyres than the Light carbon lcr018.
FM316
Been looking at it for similar reason.
What's the difference between FM316 and the FM336 with internal storage?
Bike insights to the rescue
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc7,698c8fc0d56d23001a8c5a58
While the 316 and the 326 are basically the same bike with a different fork, the 336 is a different design (someone wrote like the trek checkpoint or checkmate).
As always with bikes, not better or worse - you just need to figure out what you want first
EDIT: Or do you mean how much more fits into either internal storage compartment?
Which is the most agressive frame from Mondince with geometry close to road bike? Im looking for a do it all allroad aero bike which take larger tyres than the Light carbon lcr018.
Mondince 1-bolt seatpost is really good. Have you found similar ones elsewhere?
I ordered spcycle hb-068 handlebar. 105di2 levers, deore m6250 derailleur and red crank.
Maybe 46t front and 10-51 rear.
The dimensions look good. I'll just move more forward.
hb-068 is included in the picture. The rest should arrive next week.
That looks fabulous! Love the pink shade too. Do you know what pantone it is?No, I just asked SPCycle for the light pink option in https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIsWfRK . It was maybe a touch darker than I initially expected, but I really like the color.
I have mostly ridden it fast so far so that also helps
10-45 cassette... 46t ring
I like the color choice. Can I ask for the code?
Hi guys,
For those of you based in Europe – how long did it take for your parcel to arrive?
Mine was shipped on April 2, and according to 17Track the flight departed on April 8. That’s the latest update I have so far.
On the DPD website, nothing shows up yet, no tracking info at all.
Can't wait to build up the bike! ::)
It's quite normal. Especially to Germany and with DPD AND over a weekend. ;) My last frame was booked on a flight on monday and the next update was on thursday. so nothing to worry that much. Wild guess: Your frame will be delivered on thursday a mine was :D
How long did you wait for the shipment to arrive in Europe from the date of shipment?
Got mine recently. Yet started to get used to the color.
Not built yet as several parts are missing…
Another one I saw on Reddit yesterday, in case you missed it:So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Credit: @cranksmack
So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Building mine the upcoming days (finally), but with 50 mm Conti Terra Hardpack. Pretty cheap to get them in Germany these days.
So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Building mine the upcoming days (finally), but with 50 mm Conti Terra Hardpack. Pretty cheap to get them in Germany these days.
Have a question to the owners of the frameset with a longer fork.
How does the steering feel at low speeds? Mine feels twitchy and it almost feels like a "wheel flop" that you usually get on MTBs with aggressive head tube angles. The best way I can describe it that it feels like the front wheel falls into the corner. It turns way more than you would expect and when you are maneuvering at low speed you are constantly struggling to keep balance.
I first though it was my conti hardpack tires that I hated on my previous bike but I recently mounted a new set of Hutchinson caracals and it feels exactly the same.
I don't think the geometry with the longer fork suits running a long stem. The bikes the frames geometry is based on are running 70-80mm stems. I've got a 90mm on my medium and I'll get round to trying a old spare 70mm mtb one to see if it improves it. I can imagine it feels odd if you're used to riding road bikes but it rides much more like an old mtb.
Man… I’m soooo unsure about the size too...I can't offer you an expert advise but I'm 183/88 cm and I ordered last week FM326 size M, based on the Mondraker Arid recomedations (same as M/L size) and Canyon grail calculator.
I ride a Merida Scultura in size M, an ICAN A40 (Cinelli Pressure 1st gen) in size L, and both have almost the same reach…
But I have to push the saddle all the way forward on both of them to get the perfect pedal stroke...
Based on ChatGPT and my own calculations and comparisons on https://geometrygeeks.bike/, the FM313 model would suit me best... and that’s in size S… but that just feels wrong somehow?!?!?!
It looks so small, too...???
The 75° seat angle theoretically lets me sit better over the bottom bracket so I don’t have to sit all the way forward.
With size M, the reach would be huuuuge….
I’m 1.83 m tall with an 86 cm inseam...
I always ride aggressively when I’m out on this bike... meaning road bike on fast gravel, dirt roads, or forest roads... not so much for bikepacking, trails or leisurely rides... I’m usually riding with a certain amount of intensity
Can anyone offer some expert advice?
Man… I’m soooo unsure about the size too...
I ride a Merida Scultura in size M, an ICAN A40 (Cinelli Pressure 1st gen) in size L, and both have almost the same reach…
But I have to push the saddle all the way forward on both of them to get the perfect pedal stroke...
Based on ChatGPT and my own calculations and comparisons on https://geometrygeeks.bike/, the FM313 model would suit me best... and that’s in size S… but that just feels wrong somehow?!?!?!
It looks so small, too...???
The 75° seat angle theoretically lets me sit better over the bottom bracket so I don’t have to sit all the way forward.
With size M, the reach would be huuuuge….
I’m 1.83 m tall with an 86 cm inseam...
I always ride aggressively when I’m out on this bike... meaning road bike on fast gravel, dirt roads, or forest roads... not so much for bikepacking, trails or leisurely rides... I’m usually riding with a certain amount of intensity
Can anyone offer some expert advice?
but longer stem should make it more stable, doesn't it? it slows the steering down since you have a longer handlebar rotation curve.
I really hate how the bike handles and I'm tempted to order a shorter fork from Mondince but I'm not sure that it's going to solve it since I don't know what's causing it
Also riding a medium with SL 88 and a bit over 180.
Small would be a challenge with the seatpost, I already switched the stock option for a 400mm one to get the saddle high enough.
Don't underestimate how much more forward you sit with the seat post angle and a zero degree offset seatpost.
As Lotnik says, follow the Mondraker Arid for sizing
As indicated above, this bike is for short stems (70mm on the medium). If you combine that with a short reach handle bar with shallow drops, you save plenty of reach
but longer stem should make it more stable, doesn't it? it slows the steering down since you have a longer handlebar rotation curve.
I really hate how the bike handles and I'm tempted to order a shorter fork from Mondince but I'm not sure that it's going to solve it since I don't know what's causing it
I asked at Mondince and they provide 380 mm seatpost zero offset. Do you confirm it is not enough for you saddle height? Is it around 79 cm?
My frame finally arrived, and I'm starting the build.
So far looks really good. I've inspected the frame inside with a micro camera, and nothing looks bad.
Can anyone recommend a top tube bag that is screw-mounted, less than 10cm high, and will fit that frame? The front screw is really close to the headtube.
From running mountain bikes a longer stem always seemed to extenuate any flop, probably be cause a shorter one allowed quicker corrections so I didn't notice as much. I very much like how it rides off road, which is what drew me to it it in the first place and it's perfectly fast enough on road, I just wouldn't chose it over a road bike. It fits the gap well between a proper road bike and a trail hardtail for longer rides with a combination of both road and moderate off road.
Maybe trail? I don't know anything those things, but when I moved the axle to the rear position, the bike's steering immediately calmed down.
(short fork)
My frame finally arrived, and I'm starting the build.
So far looks really good. I've inspected the frame inside with a micro camera, and nothing looks bad.
Can anyone recommend a top tube bag that is screw-mounted, less than 10cm high, and will fit that frame? The front screw is really close to the headtube.
Have a question to the owners of the frameset with a longer fork.I assembled the bike for my friend - he is 180 cm tall and riding size M + long fork, 110 mm stem and 80 mm reach handlebar, 44 mm tires. No problems with tight turns. Maybe try to change flip chip position?
How does the steering feel at low speeds? Mine feels twitchy and it almost feels like a "wheel flop" that you usually get on MTBs with aggressive head tube angles. The best way I can describe it that it feels like the front wheel falls into the corner. It turns way more than you would expect and when you are maneuvering at low speed you are constantly struggling to keep balance.
I first though it was my conti hardpack tires that I hated on my previous bike but I recently mounted a new set of Hutchinson caracals and it feels exactly the same.
I assembled the bike for my friend - he is 180 cm tall and riding size M + long fork, 110 mm stem and 80 mm reach handlebar, 44 mm tires. No problems with tight turns. Maybe try to change flip chip position?
How long did it take to deliver to you? Mine parcel look stuck in Germany for at least week, and didn't moved at all... I thought that producing frameset and then sending it to EU will be a problem ... Not delivering parcel from Germany to Poland :-X
If 11cm is still okay:
https://amzn.eu/d/06g6nfYu
(Also available on AliExpress I believe)
I rotated the bag (front is pointing backwards), so that the screws would fit.
Quality wise, I am pretty happy
bought my frame back in January from Spcycle on Ali.
Only now started to build it.
Noticed a problem with the BB: left side screws in perfectly, right side does not/is stuck after a turn or two. Tried different (T47i) BBs and all dont work on the right side.
Spcycle said I could return the frame back to China but I'd like to fix it here.
Any one of you also encountered this issue before and has a solution?
Unfortunately, I need something lower than 10cm - I'm planning to do a triathlon with that bike.
like 95% done.Tell is more about your spec.
Bartape, tubeless sealant and bottle cages ares missing.
8500g at the moment.
I definately need to change the stem... this frame is looooong :D
Tell is more about your spec.Some parts were avaiable and used, lots of ali stuff
Some parts were avaiable and used, lots of ali stuffYou have a picture?
Frame: Mondince FM326 L
Stem: Zipp Sprint SL 100 mm (going to replace it by 70-80 mm stem)
Handlebar: ZNIINO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006590376773.html (probably also going to replaced with integrated)
Wheelset: Tangoola XPLR 40 mm, thanks @matter
Tyres: Conti Terra Hardpack 50 mm
Chainring: Goldix https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010482747081.html
Crankset: Evosid https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
BB: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005011887257449.html
Chainguide: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005849447792.html
Casette: Sram xx1 10-50 used, from mtb
Derailleur: Sram GX AXS 12x, used, mtb
STI: Sram Force d1, found a cheap offer and im ok with the ergonomics
Discs: SRAM Centerline XR 160 mm, also got them for good money
You have a picture?https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg109022.html#msg109022
So yeah, build is finished, I’ll design stickers in a few days and I hope it’ll look awesome.
I previously asked about toptube bag and ordered rhinowalk. It fits perfectly with 4mm space to headset.
Very cool color scheme.
How did you specify it, did you send over a picture or asked what is possible?
At first, we had a discussion about what effects and colors they had available, then I created a design and specified what should be where, and in the end, they did that. I recall Jack saying that everything is possible with the design ;D
So yeah, build is finished, I’ll design stickers in a few days and I hope it’ll look awesome.
I previously asked about toptube bag and ordered rhinowalk. It fits perfectly with 4mm space to headset.
Are those the xplr rims? if so how do you like them
My build is finally finished. This is the first time I build a bike on my own and most of the time has been spent waiting for different parts that I forgot to order... ::)"Which Acros headset are you using?"
Frame
Mondince FM326
Size Medium
Fork without rivets
Painted in Pantone 5535 C
Drivetrain
SRAM Rival XPLR E1 derailleur
SRAM Rival XPLR XG-1351 cassette
SRAM Rival E1 chain
SRAM Rival Dub Wide crankset (170 mm)
Garbaruk 46T chainring
SRAM T47 bottom bracket
Brakes
SRAM Apex AXS shifters
SRAM Apex calipers
SRAM Paceline X rotors (160 mm)
Wheels
Elitewheels Gravel Aero+
Pirelli Cinturato 50 mm (actual width 53-54 mm)
Cockpit
Sixpack Gravel ICR stem (70 mm)
Sixpack Gravel stem out front mount
Acros headset
PRO Discover 20 alloy handlebar (420 mm)
Seating
Mondince standard seatpost
Fizik Terra Argo X3 saddle
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.I received same info today. I'm moving my order to the 336 frame. Next two weeks of waiting :(
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition
Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days
If you have a carbon repair specialist near you that can accommodate your time constraints, that would be ideal.
Failing that, I don't think you have anything to lose by attempting a home repair (other than time) - I'd try a product like Marston-Domsel (MD) Megabond 2000.
- You can fill the shallower gaps with the epoxy.
- Bond the big piece to the frame with the epoxy; wrap it with adhesive tape for curing (but don't wrap it too tightly, you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy). I wouldn't layer any carbon fiber material between the frame and the big piece.
- Layer some carbon fiber material around the area as you suggest.
- Leave yourself enough time for a few test rides once the repair is completed.
As a back-up plan, start researching a new local frame, or see whether maybe you can rent something where your holiday is?
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition
Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days
I finally got my frame.Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?
Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?They wrote to me first this morning. When I asked what was wrong with the fork they said that "the old fork is good, but the fork leg may move during turning.
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!
With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.
Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.
| Part | Spec |
| Frameset | FM316 – Size S |
| Wheelset | Zipp 303 Firecrest |
| Tires | Pathfinder 45 |
| Stem | Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount |
| Handlebar | ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42 |
| Saddle | Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm |
| Brake Levers + Calipers | RX820 + BR820 |
| Crankset | Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm |
| Rear Derailleur | RD-RX822 SGS |
| Cassette | XT M8100 10-45T |
| Chain | KMC X12 |
| Disc Rotors | Shimano RT-CL900 160mm |
| Chainring | Passquest 48T plain w/ covers |
| Bottom Bracket | TOKEN T47 V24 85.5 |
| Pedals | Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL |
| Bar Tape | Ergon BT Gravel |
| Bottle Cages | Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5 |
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack’s incredible support and responsiveness.What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?
Took me about two days to fully build the bike and start riding it – already knocked out roughly 700 km so far!
Build Specs
Part Spec Frameset FM316 – Size S Wheelset Zipp 303 Firecrest Tires Pathfinder 45 Stem Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount Handlebar ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42 Saddle Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm Brake Levers + Calipers RX820 + BR820 Crankset Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm Rear Derailleur RD-RX822 SGS Cassette XT M8100 10-45T Chain KMC X12 Disc Rotors Shimano RT-CL900 160mm Chainring Passquest 48T plain w/ covers Bottom Bracket TOKEN T47 V24 85.5 Pedals Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL Bar Tape Ergon BT Gravel Bottle Cages Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5
Full build cost was around €2800 (±$3.3K), excluding pedals which I already owned.
Weight is around 8.6 kg including pedals, bottle cages, and the Garmin mount, which I think is pretty solid considering the cockpit isn’t integrated and the Deda Vinci stem is actually quite heavy (~350g with the Garmin mount adapter).
Frame color is black pearl / white pearl with a gloss finish, and I’m honestly really impressed with how it looks in person. The only minor downside so far is the quality of the stock bolts, which isn’t amazing. I already ordered a full set of Ti bolts from Wanyifa that should arrive later this week.
This is my second bike alongside an S-Works SL8 (size 54). Stack and reach are surprisingly close between both bikes, and the handling feels very similar as well, so adaptation was pretty much immediate.
A few people I ride with asked me why I went with GRX mechanical instead of Di2 or SRAM Force. I was actually inspired by Zach Calton, a US pro mountain/gravel racer, who praised the GRX 12-speed mechanical groupset quite a lot. According to him, shifting performance is flawless, the setup is lighter than GRX Di2, and the clutch mechanism does a really good job at limiting chain and derailleur vibrations on rough terrain – all of that at a fraction of the GRX Di2 price.
I fully integrated the shifting cables through the stem and handlebar, and honestly the shifting performance has been excellent. It's reliable and nearly as fast as an electronic groupset. Considering the price point, I’m extremely happy with it.
So far the only part I’m a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.
Will share more updates after a few longer rides!
What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack’s incredible support and responsiveness.
So far the only part I’m a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.
Will share more updates after a few longer rides!
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575
If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575
If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01
I'm running both. G-One RX 50 mm at the front and R 50 mm at the rear. I'm very happy with them so far. I use a bit less pressure, around 1.4 bar. They roll very well and with good grip.
I bought the Mondince FM316 last fall and I've been very impressed with it. The geometry is spot on for me, I love the longer reach and steeper seattube. I now have it set up with a slammed 130mm -17 stem to get the reach even longer, and I use the Ascent Aeroo Road handlebars to get a really nice and comfortable aero position. The back end seems more comfortable than the Tideace Noah that I had before. My only issue honestly is the tyre clearance – I've been using Tufo Thundero 48mm's with 25IW wheels, and I don't really feel comfortable going any wider on the back. Maybe 50mm's could work, but I dunno. I don't think I would be comfortable using 2.1inch TB's on this bike. I don't think I _need_ any wider than 48mm, but having that option for some terrain would be great!
Hey folks
Has anyone used this on the road with road tyres and would give some feedback please.
Thanks!
I just purchased the frameset today for this reason only to be used on the road because of the long front center , long reach, steep Sta (similar to Noah 3.0),threaded bb, and not insane stack or stand over. This frameset solves all of these issues for me. I can let you know how it rides once received if interested, I did ask for all the rivets minus the ones for the water bottles to be removed as I would not be using them ever.
I just purchased the frameset today for this reason only to be used on the road because of the long front center , long reach, steep Sta (similar to Noah 3.0),threaded bb, and not insane stack or stand over. This frameset solves all of these issues for me. I can let you know how it rides once received if interested, I did ask for all the rivets minus the ones for the water bottles to be removed as I would not be using them ever.
316/326 or 336?
Has anyone tried cutting out the internal storage walls? The storage space is too small and collects water, so I’m thinking about getting rid of the walls, but I don’t really have any idea how to do it cleanly.
I am about to order the FM236. Still puzzling about the size.
The at 184cm tall I am right in the L size but everything says I should get the M, which closely matches my Cannondale Synapse 2020. Having said that, I think the slacker head tube and steeper seat tube will make the L better in the end. Any of your experiences with this frame's sizing greatly appreciated.
Anyway, this thread has been very helpful and I look forward to sharing my build!
"Which Acros headset are you using?"
First gravell race done and +1500km ridden. Very good. The geometry feels safe in fast speed and on poor surfaces.Do you have any bike to compare it to? I am on the verge between this and some FS CX bike. Having cyclocross bike with 45mm tires in the past, it is too twitchy and rigid to the type of gravel riding I was doing...
25id and 2.1" thunderburt. Have to check if there are any marks from the tire hitting the chainstay.
Fm316, M-size. 120mm stem. 178cm. Feels a little short, but is stable to handle.
Long reach geo is WINNER!
Thanks.
Yup, 316
Asked for the road forks as an extra, so do have a pair of the gravel forks too.
Wanted a fast, lightweight daily driver with flat bar ergonomics and MTB shifting. Nothing like that exists off the shelf at a sane price, so I built it.
Why Flatbar on an XL frame?
Swap a drop bar for a flat bar and you lose ~80mm of effective reach — the hoods just aren't there anymore. To compensate, I went one (massive) size up to XL and paired it with a 130mm stem. The result matches my drop bar bike's reach almost exactly: same aggressive, stretched position, but with upright sightlines and the ability to run a full Shimano XT groupset off the MTB shelf for a fraction of GRX pricing.
The build:
Frame & Cockpit
Mondince FM316 XL (wanted purple, but got midnight-blue - ok, i´m fine with it haha)
Carbon rigid fork (just clearcoat)
Toseek Carbon Flatbar — 660mm
Kalloy Uno stem 130mm
Kactus Tech Ceramic T47 BB
Wheels & Tyres:
Elite Wheels Gravel Pro Carbon — 24mm inner width, swap to MicroSpline freehub
Tufo Thundero HD 44mm Tyres - love them!
Drivetrain:
SRAM Rival E1 Wide crankset — 165mm (cheaper than GRX)
Alugear Oval 42T chainring — 2mm offset (chains the chainline to 49.5mm for the 142mm rear axle)
Shimano Deore XT 12-speed — shifter, derailleur, 10-51T cassette (crazy cheap! 180€ total + 3 XT chains waxed)
Brakes:
Shimano XT M8100 levers + Flatmount calipers (for 120€ total)
180mm front / 160mm rear
Total weight: ~9.1kg with pedals, mounts, everything / Price: ~1800€ in germany
Happy to go deep on the chainline math or the geometry sizing logic if anyone's interested. Attatched a pic in comparsion with Tideace GV201 size 54.
some feedback to the evosid road bike crankset: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
During my trip through the Netherlands I recogized a creaking of hell... first I thought it was the ZTTO BB (again) as the first bearing went down pretty fast.
But, no.
After serveral bearing changes and cup install and removal on the camp ground I my desperation grew.
In the end it was the crankset, particularry the pressfit from axle to crankarm.
Luckily I got some loctite with me and gave it a try and gave some drops from the axle side into the pressfit. Well, the loctite came out completly on the outside and there I knew...
Since then, totally silent even 500km later.
So if someboy is considering the getting the crankset, I would suggest to do it from start with high strength loctite.
Anyone got an advice for a fitting frame bag?
Full length?Ah yes, but hard to find. The L bag should fit nicely in an L frame.
My specialized 3l bag fits very well into my medium frame
https://www.specialized.com/de/de/specializedfj%C3%A4llr%C3%A4ven-frame-bag/p/220880?color=362061-220880
Got mine built.
What a lovely bike, seriously impressed 8)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130801&mode=view)
Set up for road with a pair of Mondince fm066 forks and 35mm gp5k on the back.
Comfortable and fast, highly recommended.
Still playing with bars and stem so currently unfinished, but you get the idea.
I might need to try a shorter stem. Mine is definitely too long for this frame (I use 120 but should probably be on 100mm) and I actually use a positive offset on my seatpost to compensate. I really like the position though.Did you try to swap the stem already? I've been deciding between short and long fork and want to retain long and tall aero position without compromising handling off road (with 120 stem) and 420 fork seems like a good idea, but after your comment I am a bit hesitant.
I don't quite understand how shorter stem would reduce wheel flop or calm the steering down. I my head it will do the opposite as the steering will feel much quicker with a shorter stem
Anyone got specs or pics of the axle heads required for the fm326? I have the dimensions.
Specifically, I am trying to see whether they are conical or flat?
Waiting for my frame to arrive and wanting to use DT Swiss Plug-in thru axles.
Hi everyone, i'm currently in discussion with Jack from Mondince for the aero gravel frame FM316. After a bit of negotiating, he sent me a proforma invoice for 800 € flat, all-inclusive (shipping to France included).
Here is the detailed breakdown of the package:
Frameset : FM316 Frame + Fork (Size XS)
Cockpit : 400x90mm integrated carbon handlebar/stem
Accessories : Carbon seatpost, thru-axles, and headset
Paint : Custom "Crystal/Ice FX" Glossy finish (Pantone 874C - Copper/Gold marbling effect)
Shipping : DPD/XDB to France included.
Sizing & Fit Question:
I am currently leaning towards the Size XS with the 400x90mm cockpit, but I want to make sure I am making the right call. Here are my measurements:
Height: 170 cm
Inseam: 78 cm
Wingspan: 158 cm
Given my shorter wingspan, I am terrified of being too stretched out on a gravel bike. Do you think the XS is the perfect fit to keep a balanced position, or should I consider a different setup?
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for the heads-up on the Mondraker "Forward Geo" design! I completely missed that, but it makes total sense now.
The main reason I originally leaned toward the XS is my proportions: I'm 170cm with a 78cm inseam, but my wingspan is only 158cm. Having a short torso and short arms, my absolute biggest fear is being way too stretched out on drop bars.
But you're spot on—slapping a 90mm stem on a long-reach frame completely ruins the whole point of that geometry. Plus, dealing with toe-overlap on an XS on tight trails would drive me crazy.
If I follow your advice and step up to a Size S to get decent seatpost extension and front-wheel clearance, but stay with Mondince's 90mm integrated cockpit, the total reach is going to be way too long for my short arms.
Should I just ditch Mondince's integrated bar altogether, order the Size S frame, and source a separate 60mm or 70mm stem + gravel bars on my own? Or is this specific frame geo just a bad match for someone with my build?
Would love to get your take on this sizing puzzle. Cheers!
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).
Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.I think you're right going the smallest size. On the S the stack is really huge, that means you will have have a small saddle to handlebar drop.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).
Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).
too good to be true if anything? copper marble effect is NOT a cheap paint job, and your price includes handlebars, taxes, shipping? are you sure there is no miscommunication?Here is the inspiration for the paint! I don't have a digital mockup, but I attached a real photo of this exact Copper "Crystal FX" (Ice FX) finish to give you an idea
where did you get the inspiration from? would love to see a mockup
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Looks great! This is a really well thought out build, I'm curious what your total cost ended up being? Seems like about as good as you can get from a $/performance basis right now.
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Should I change to a 100 or 110mm stem? I feel too cramped in Size S and always keep thinking I need more reach. 174cm tall, 81cm inseam, 182cm wingspan (if that helps). Cheers!
Which evosid crank is that? I can't find this particular one.
A bit of a random question, but one that would really help me out: I have a frame (size M) on order and I slowly but surely getting all the parts together.If i remember correctly there are two options for the rear brake hose. One ultra long for tandems maybe and the other one you should order.
For the brakes/shifters I am thinking of getting some GRX ST-RX820 which come in a "J-Kit" version which come with a pre-cut, pre-filled hydraulic brake line - this would be convenient because I don't have the tools for working on brake lines (yet).
Since I am trying to avoid trimming the brake lines, I'd like to make sure to order the right one - so if anyone has any recommendations for brake line length (especially the rear) please share - thanks!
A bit of a random question, but one that would really help me out: I have a frame (size M) on order and I slowly but surely getting all the parts together.I just built my bike up with SRAM force and you have to cut those to make them fit through the frame. The brake line with the olive didnt fit through the frame for me, I do not know about Shimano. To do it nicely you would always want to cut them to length, I never did until yesterday and it was really easy. Bleeding isn't totally necessary for me but I will soon just to be sure. For SRAM everything was included in the box except for hydraulic brake line cutter which I bought of ali.
For the brakes/shifters I am thinking of getting some GRX ST-RX820 which come in a "J-Kit" version which come with a pre-cut, pre-filled hydraulic brake line - this would be convenient because I don't have the tools for working on brake lines (yet).
Since I am trying to avoid trimming the brake lines, I'd like to make sure to order the right one - so if anyone has any recommendations for brake line length (especially the rear) please share - thanks!
If i remember correctly there are two options for the rear brake hose. One ultra long for tandems maybe and the other one you should order.-- The shop I am looking at has them in 50mm increments, from 1400mm all the the way up to 1700mm. Gemini says "On a typical medium/large gravel frame with internal routing, the raw length of the rear brake line usually winds up being between $1350\text{mm}$ and $1500\text{mm}$ from the lever to the caliper." which isn't particularly accurate.
An easy way to get the rough lengh you is to take i.e. a shoestring and work your way from caliper position back to the handlebar.-- Since I haven't received the frame yet that is not really an option :/ I was hoping maybe someone before me had already done so.
I just built my bike up with SRAM force and you have to cut those to make them fit through the frame. The brake line with the olive didnt fit through the frame for me, I do not know about Shimano.-- I might be wrong, but I believe this "J-Kit" ("J" standing for Junction, https://tbsbikeparts.com/blogs/blog/shimano-j-kit-brake-system-overview) exists to solve this problem, where both the lever and the hose are bled and sealed, but no olive is inserted yet. But if the process was simple enough, I might just get a longer hose and trim it using a cheap tool - probably good to have anyway.
2. My frame came with a front derailleur mount, but I will be running 1x. Based on some pictures in this thread, some frames that also don't have a front derailleur have a some sort of replacement cover (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690)), but most don't. To those with the cover: Was it included with your frame? Did you 3D print? Are these available as spares somewhere?
Thanks all!
What's the real world tire clearance on this frame? Would it fit Schwalbe thunder Burts (~53mm)?
No..At least two bikes posted here have Thunderburts installed, one on ZIPP XPLRs. So it fit, albeit tightly
61mm. Max 51mm MW tires with 0,5cm side by side.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html)
Hi again, so my wife’s 316 is on its way, but now I’ve got the bug and want to replace my tideace as I find it a bit too aggressive. I sized down in that frame to a Large, usually I ride xl frames at 188cm.
I’m trying to decide between the large and xl 316. I’ve attached comparison of my road bike Spcycle r088 XL with 110 stem. (I’m actually replacing that with another frame as it’s slightly too aggressive too). I’m using xy Calc but comparing traditional geo with progressive is a little tricky I find. 316 is XL and has a 70mm stem in this.
At 188cm I would never in my life think about getting a XL or 58cm+ bike and for reference my gravel bike is a Yoeleo G20 in Large with 100mm stem, thats almost too big. I see a LOT of people here get bikes a size too big for them.... no idea why.
At least two bikes posted here have Thunderburts installed, one on ZIPP XPLRs. So it fit, albeit tightly
I have been having problems with brake rub on the front brake. The brake is perfectly aligned at lower tensions on the lower brake caliper bolt, but when increased to 4-5 Nm, it would throw off the alignment and the brake would rub. I could not fix it myself. I finally brought it to my local bike shop and they tried everything, including facing the brake mounts. They are pretty sure that an imperfection in the fork, near the thru axle insert, is causing the problem.
The good news is that Jack was very quick to reply and offered to cover the fork under warranty, even though he has never heard such an issue with their forks (which is reassuring since it does not seem to be a generalized issue).
I am just waiting for them to paint it and ship it over. I am only covering the shipping cost. It's a win in my books!
At 188cm I would never in my life think about getting a XL or 58cm+ bike and for reference my gravel bike is a Yoeleo G20 in Large with 100mm stem, thats almost too big. I see a LOT of people here get bikes a size too big for them.... no idea why.
Interesting! I think based on the Large 316 with a short stem I’d be too crunched up.
If you want more endurance focused geometry then look at the longer forked version, the FM326. Imo it gives a better compromise for proper off road use than most other Chinese frames.
I had no clearance problems with Thunderburt 2.1, which measured 51mm mounted on some Elite rims. I am not sure how it would hold up in wet conditions and mud with a lot of clay, but I did not get build-up in wet conditions over "normal" mud.Still 3 mm of clearance with Thunderburts on Zipp XPLR wheels which have very wide IW. That's a win for me.
Jack has offered me a good deal on a 326 with “old 420 fork”, were there issues with that fork?
It doesn't have the flip chip and I think the tyre clearance might be very slightly less. I ordered mine when it was released so I've got the original fork. It rides how I expected and there's plenty of clearance for a 53mm WAM tyre
Would you guys trust Mondince to do a quite intricate decal job? I've got some decals I want on the frame, but I'm not sure if I should order a frame without clear coat and do the decals myself. Then have a local shop do the clearcoat after that. What do you guys think?DIY vote!
Would you guys trust Mondince to do a quite intricate decal job? I've got some decals I want on the frame, but I'm not sure if I should order a frame without clear coat and do the decals myself. Then have a local shop do the clearcoat after that. What do you guys think?They charge quite a price for a decal. Go DIY
Just build up!
Playing with satellite shifters location, so excuse the old bar tape.
R9270 / R8170 mix
Elilee X310 with Sigeyi PM
LB WG55 wheels with Compass Snoquallmie Pass tires.
Here is the inspiration for the paint! I don't have a digital mockup, but I attached a real photo of this exact Copper "Crystal FX" (Ice FX) finish to give you an idea
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381) - sans guidon intégré - 765 USD vers la porte (UE). Je suppose donc que 800 euros avec guidon est toujours un bon prix :)I finally ordered the FM316 in a purple chameleon without the handlebars for 600€
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Should I change to a 100 or 110mm stem? I feel too cramped in Size S and always keep thinking I need more reach. 174cm tall, 81cm inseam, 182cm wingspan (if that helps). Cheers!
I had exactly the same problem on my FM336 with a Deda stem, and I'm still trying to solve it.
What brand is your stem?
I've seen online that some people have experienced the same issue with FSA stems (the fully integrated cable-routing models).
At the moment, I'm going to try modifying a Kocevlo compression ring, or otherwise I'll just switch to another stem—the same one that other FM336 owners are using successfully.
thinking same
planned with oscillating saw, then sanding
Nice build!! I have a question on the Ryet Unix bars you put on. I ordered the same bars for my FM326 frame but the compression rings they sent are either too low or too high. What did you do to over come this? I am assuming you had the same issue since you have the same frame bar combo. Thank you.
Thought this might help others with their builds. Does anyone have experience w/ this type of headset cap?can you please provide the height of the piece having the 4 holes? I’d like to know what is the overall stack of the frame with 0 spacers
The provided cap has 4 holes w/ 4 open caps pre-installed and 2 closed caps provided separately
(https://i.ibb.co/Kc7FYQgm/IMG-1808-compressed.jpg)Perhaps the cap would align better using different holes, routing the front hose around the steerer tube, or both?
- You'll only want 2 open caps if running electronic shifting (to prevent dirt/water from entering)
- You'll want to decide which holes are closed BEFORE installing headset/hoses/etc.
- In my case, the rear hose is routed through the left hole (to the right brake lever) while the front through the right
- The disparity in angle/tension caused the cap to settle in a skewed position
- I think this type of cap fares better with more spacers but my stem is pretty slammed
- Not an issue per se, more of an aesthetic thing
You may want to experiment before securing hoses.
(https://i.ibb.co/bkMPBX7/IMG-1794.jpg)
My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.Thanks for the info regarding the headset. Have you, or anyone, considered go full integration with a stem like this?
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.
Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)
The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.
Components I used:
Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm
Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120
Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)
Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622
Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset
--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)
Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.
My Build is done FM316 size M
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/4gxmtiw7.webp) (https://www.directupload.eu)
Hi everyone,
I finally completed my custom gravel project and just came back from a very successful 40km shakedown ride. I wanted to share the build details and some feedback on the Mondince FM316 frame.
Here is the full spec list for this Gravel build:
Frame: Mondince FM316-S (Size S)
Groupset: Wheeltop GX Wireless (1x12)
Crankset: Magene PES P515 Power Meter
Cassette & Chain: Shimano SLX 12-speed (10-51)
Wheels: EliteWheels Marvel G36 Carbon
Tires: Tufo Thundero HD 48mm
Rotors: 160mm Front & Rear
Cockpit: UNO HB-FL12 Carbon Handlebar with a 75mm stem (+6°)
Total Weight: 9.1kg
First Ride Impressions:
To give some context, I am a mountain biker at heart, usually riding full-suspension All-Mountain bikes and e-MTBs. This Mondince build is actually my very first experience riding a fully rigid bike with zero suspension! 😅
I have to admit, I was completely surprised by the snappiness and the immediate reactivity of the bike. Coming from heavy, plush mountain bikes, the power transfer here is just insane. The frame is super stiff laterally and feels like an absolute rocket when sprinting out of the saddle.
Despite having no suspension, the clearance for the 48mm Tufo tires acts as a great cushion, making it a real tank on rough trails, while the carbon EliteWheels keep it incredibly lively.
The Wheeltop GX shifting was flawless.
Pictures attached! Let me know if you have any questions about the frame or the components.
hello here is mine fm316
(https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/535840) (https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/f/535840)
That's really, really nice. What color is that? Can you post some more pictures?
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
This bike is stupidly fast to handle. Like a cross bike. Have to test more. And those burts are faaaaast.Hi there, great build. Can you share what headset have you used?
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.