Hello I just spotted a new aero gravel on mondince website.
I never heard of the brand, I wrote them an email and they wrote back pretty soon.
The frame FM316 looks interesting with Y shaped seat-stays, like Lightcarbon, Mondraker or Seka Spear.
Tyre clearence seems good and geometry seems allright for a fast but comfortable gravel bike.
What do you think?
(https://www.mondincecycle.com/uploads/20250614/FM316.png)
Ticks pretty much all the features for me, but geometry is harsh. Even more reach than the GR201 while also having very high stack?
It's also decently light. (Unless you believe the 910kg typo ;D)
Also says MOQ 50 units, are you sure they do B2B?
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html)
looks decent but it's a little odd that they use the same seat and headtube angle on all the sizes.
It's actually real and you can order it right now.
IMO it combines the best out of the TideAce noah and Velobuild Aero Grav.
I skipped on the aero grav, but I might actually order this one.
(https://i.imgur.com/sJci8Xt.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2TFyDPU.jpeg)
485$ for frame (black), fork, seatpost, axles, storage cover, headset (no handlebar!)
150$ for EU shipping (tax incl.)
paypal fee: +4.2%
custom paintjob is possible: one custom pantone/ys color is +55$
leadtime: 1 month until shipment
- 1300g for size M in UD gloss
- longer fork is also available (420mm)
- storage is isolated chamber (not just a hole in downtube) and mechanical (not magnetic)
- can NOT be ordered without storage
- but can be ordered without fork or fender mounts
- storage door (made out of carbon) can be custom painted
- 2x 52x40x8mm bearings
storage:
(https://i.imgur.com/wTEHXcs.jpeg)
With that geometry it proves we are evolving towards previous generation 29" hardtails. I need to check, but I believe my light-carbon hardtail I bought 10 years ago has compatible stack, reach and sloping. The only difference it was 300gr lighter.
Quote from: jfcb on August 13, 2025, 01:37:53 PM
With that geometry it proves we are evolving towards previous generation 29" hardtails. I need to check, but I believe my light-carbon hardtail I bought 10 years ago has compatible stack, reach and sloping. The only difference it was 300gr lighter.
Big tire clearance will do that.
I imagine that 300G lighter was with no fork.
"Jack" has been very quick to get back to me with answers. So far it all lines up with what Void has posted prices wise etc.
I added the geo to bike insights:
https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/689cb67b11f2e8001a0c85b2-mondince-fm316?version=2025&build=base
A size small yields a 12mm longer reach than my size 52 carbonda 696. Stack is easily matched with a slammed stem. Looks workable to me.
Would really like to know what a 50mm tire looks like for clearance as I would love to stuff a 2.1 in this frame.
Stack an reach for both forks the Same? But other fork is 20mm shorter?
Quote from: bigApple on August 13, 2025, 03:10:03 PM
Stack an reach for both forks the Same? But other fork is 20mm shorter?
Should make quite big difference to seat tube angle and head tube angle also.
Those geometry charts seems a bit odd..
The longer fork should increase the stack of 18mm, reduce slightly the reach, increase head angle and seat angle.
Also the bike wheelbase is shorter with the 50mm offset fork than with the 45mm fork.
The sub 1kg weight on the website is very interesting, the 1300g for size M is much closer to the Tideace frame.
Here some other pictures of the frame in the making and NECO 16 headset, it looks like it won't work with integrated handlebars, but changing headset to an FSA ACR headset should fix the problem:
(https://i.imgur.com/BQdbNdR.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RHWJC4u.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E5nJDGF.jpeg)
Geometry table seems indeed off. I guess FO is swapped accidentally, and they forgot to calculate HTA and ST. FC also doesn't change.
//Edit: They told me the geometry of the shorter (400mm) fork is correct. I've removed the other geometry table.
Weight for frame and fork
(https://i.imgur.com/UsHwTBV.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eRGwRuU.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dzk1x1H.jpeg)
1240 and 410g if i read that right? what size is that, M?
Does a storage pouch come with the frame as you said it is not just a hole in the frame? And how big is the storage?
And lastly is your contact just the website?
Quote from: kbernstein on August 14, 2025, 09:40:04 AM
1240 and 410g if i read that right? what size is that, M?
Does a storage pouch come with the frame as you said it is not just a hole in the frame? And how big is the storage?
And lastly is your contact just the website?
Images are quite small but it's 1210g for frame with cover but without hardware, I believe it's a size S
Fork it's 440g but I believe this one is different form the one on the render because it has a flip chip for the offset.
Storage looks similar to the tideace one, at least size-wise; as for the pouch I have no idea, I'll ask in the next email.
Its a Mondraker Arid. GEO basically lines up perfectly.
After reading the geo reviews of the Mondraker and seeing the weight of the frame I am likely looking for something a bit more racy to complement my Carbonda 696.
Quote from: impmonkey on August 14, 2025, 02:28:38 PM
Its a Mondraker Arid. GEO basically lines up perfectly.
After reading the geo reviews of the Mondraker and seeing the weight of the frame I am likely looking for something a bit more racy to complement my Carbonda 696.
I don't think it's a mondraker arid. Seatstays are a match but many mounts don't match.
The mondraker doesn't have rear rack mounts, has a different headtube, different seat clamp mechanism, trapdoor latch is different, top tube appears thinner, it has no FD mount at all (ew), chainstays are much thinner, different cable exits too. Fork is also completely different to look completely upright.
I'm with you though. I also have a 696 and want something more racy
Its an arid copy, don't think they are the supplier by any means.
Let me know if you find a proper replacement. A few are close, but nothing completely sells me yet.
It does look good though
(https://i.imgur.com/RyBcjdB.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrOFHYB.jpeg)
After some chatting with Mondince I decided to buy the frame.
It should be ready for shipping in 25 days. I'll keep you updated
Quote from: lkip on August 18, 2025, 11:20:33 AM
After some chatting with Mondince I decided to buy the frame.
It should be ready for shipping in 25 days. I'll keep you updated
This looks really good! Keep us posted!
I just assembled a gravel bike based on SP Cycle G069. Darn! this Mondince one looks a lot sexier.
I could never use this frame. The reach is extreme for the sizes. And seat tube and head tube is very short for frame size that would possibly fit. Also quite big size steps between the sizes. Shame, because it really looks nice - and I do like that the angles does not change between sizes.
Quote from: Rolle2k on August 19, 2025, 12:22:16 AM
I could never use this frame. The reach is extreme for the sizes. And seat tube and head tube is very short for frame size that would possibly fit. Also quite big size steps between the sizes. Shame, because it really looks nice - and I do like that the angles does not change between sizes.
Reach wise it's not too different from the tideace gv201, but at least the stack is not that low.
If you have a look at how the mondraker arid (same geo) is assembled, they use 70 or 80mm stems.
I think longer reach and short stems is a good combo on gravel bikes because the short stems gives back a bit of reactivity that you'll lose when slacking the head tube angle, and I want an open head tube angle to avoid toe overlap and have some more stability at slow speed when offroading.
As for the short seat tube, I agree, for an AERO frame I'd like a more horizontal top tube, that will also give some more space inside the main triangle for a frame bag, having a lot of seatpost sticking out should help with comfort though.
I'll see how it'll look when finished
Quote from: lkip on August 20, 2025, 03:52:14 AM
Reach wise it's not too different from the tideace gv201, but at least the stack is not that low.
If you have a look at how the mondraker arid (same geo) is assembled, they use 70 or 80mm stems.
I think longer reach and short stems is a good combo on gravel bikes because the short stems gives back a bit of reactivity that you'll lose when slacking the head tube angle, and I want an open head tube angle to avoid toe overlap and have some more stability at slow speed when offroading.
As for the short seat tube, I agree, for an AERO frame I'd like a more horizontal top tube, that will also give some more space inside the main triangle for a frame bag, having a lot of seatpost sticking out should help with comfort though.
I'll see how it'll look when finished
Small would fit me fine - but i would rather want seat tube 480mm and head tube 146mm, like the medium frame. That would be awesome. Maybe 0.5deg slacker headtube, but that is a taste difference which doesnt master that much.
I could use the small now - but would need spacer tower and aero and look-wise i dont like the short seattube lenght.
Ordered 2 FM316's from Mondince (XL and S). Will update along the process...
Quote from: lidation on August 18, 2025, 06:09:38 PM
This looks really good! Keep us posted!
I just assembled a gravel bike based on SP Cycle G069. Darn! this Mondince one looks a lot sexier.
I much prefer the g069; it looks great and is one of the best frames money can buy!
They cancelled the fender mounts to maximize stiffness (I'm good with this)
Anticipated batch completion date October 2, 2025
I have one incoming (no ETA yet) and will share a rewiev asap.
Quote from: CJ on September 17, 2025, 09:08:07 PM
They cancelled the fender mounts to maximize stiffness (I'm good with this)
Anticipated batch completion date October 2, 2025
When I ordered the frame I asked to avoid drilling the frame in that place as it looks a concentration point for mechanical stress; good to hear I wasn't wrong 8)
On mondince website the geometry chart has changed because now the fork has a flip chip that wasn't there a while ago.
Quote from: lkip on August 20, 2025, 03:52:14 AM
Reach wise it's not too different from the tideace gv201, but at least the stack is not that low.
If you have a look at how the mondraker arid (same geo) is assembled, they use 70 or 80mm stems.
I think longer reach and short stems is a good combo on gravel bikes because the short stems gives back a bit of reactivity that you'll lose when slacking the head tube angle, and I want an open head tube angle to avoid toe overlap and have some more stability at slow speed when offroading.
As for the short seat tube, I agree, for an AERO frame I'd like a more horizontal top tube, that will also give some more space inside the main triangle for a frame bag, having a lot of seatpost sticking out should help with comfort though.
I'll see how it'll look when finished
There is something weird in the geometry chart. The Tideace Noah GV201 size 54 has 125 mm head tube and 400 mm fork, and the stack is 562 mm. The FM316 size S has the same 125 mm head tube and the same 400 mm fork and the stack is 573 mm. The FM316's head tube angle is slacker than the Noah, which should make the stack lower, not higher than the Noah.
Quote from: emilioea on September 26, 2025, 05:50:54 PM
There is something weird in the geometry chart. The Tideace Noah GV201 size 54 has 125 mm head tube and 400 mm fork, and the stack is 562 mm. The FM316 size S has the same 125 mm head tube and the same 400 mm fork and the stack is 573 mm. The FM316's head tube angle is slacker than the Noah, which should make the stack lower, not higher than the Noah.
Mondince : (400mm + 125mm)*sin(70,5°)= 495mm + 75mm of BB drop = 570mm (geometry chart says 573mm, close enough)
Gv201 : (400mm + 125mm)*sin(71,8°)= 499mm + 78mm of BB drop = 577mm (instead of 562)
Math isn't working on the GV201 IMHO.
If the fork is measured axle to crown (which is common), and with a 50 mm offset, then the fork has an effective angle slacker than the head tube angle, which makes the fork's contribution to the stack height smaller than if you calculate it with the head tube angle. Taking that into account I calculate 558 mm for the GV201 (4 mm less than claimed, close enough) and 550 mm for the FM316 (22 mm less than claimed).
PS: when I do the same calculation with the Mondraker Arid (which uses a 420 mm fork) my calculation is within 3 mm of Mondraker's claimed stack.
(https://tideacebike.com/cdn/shop/files/cycling-road-gravel-bicycle-frameset_1280x1280_crop_center.jpg?v=1715939004)
I guess that solves the mistery.
For the Gv201 I used the measurement as taken in the geometry chart, which isn't clear because it measures fork lenght as projection on the steering axle. If the measurement is axle to crown then the angle varies lowering the front to 558mm indeed.
I guess Mondice used the 400mm measurement as drawn on the geometry chart so the actual axle to crown is slightly longer; I guess this can make sense because of the flip chip that may slightly change axle to crown length.This would make the axle to crown 405mm for 50mm offset that won't be enough to get to that number of stack...
Anyway they changed geometry chart more than once in the last 2 months so errors are a possibility;
my frame is on its way, with quite a bit of delay, I'll take the measurements when it'll be here, also I ordered the frame before the flip chip was a thing so I have no idea what it'll come equipped with ;D ;D .
Cool, would be nice if you can report back when you get the frame. I think the claimed stack would fit me well, but if it's 20 mm less in real life, that would make it too aggressive for me. I also like their FM306, but that one may have slightly too much stack at 585 mm for a size M.
I asked Jack the actual length of the equipped fork, we'll see.
I'm not too worried because I'm likely to change the headset with something like DEDA s-dcr to improve cable routing but that'll add 15mm on top of the head tube.
I just got a reply from Mondince saying that the chart is indeed wrong and that they'll update it next week.
Ordered a S and an XL FM316... the small arrives this Wednesday October 8 (had to pay $81 import fee in the US 🤔)
The XL is due late Oct/early Nov
Updated geometry
(https://i.ibb.co/chG48HKk/Mondince-FM316.jpg)
The small arrived. The XL goes into production at the end of October.
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6HLnKy7/IMG-1604.jpg)
The updated geometry is disconcerting.
Now the bike is 24mm longer and 10mm lower.
Seat angle is almost vertical and BB drop is huge at 84.5mm.
I hope they'll fit a 420mm fork on the bike and fix the geometry in the near future.
I'm giving it a skip now. That's more reach than some TT bikes. Who is this for? 60mm stems? Aero is one thing but how could anyone be comfortable even for 2 hours on this?
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-aero-design-t47-bracket-gravel-bike-frame-fm316
They have already updated and are offering it with a 420 A-C fork as well.
Personally, I love the modern geo resulting from the shorter fork. The only question is whether the fork is too short for a Thunder Burt.
I actually quite like this geometry ... for a road bike. For a gravel bike I think it is too progressive, but probably designed around short stem lengths. This frame is in line with the Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 when it comes to reach and seat tube angle, albeit with a much taller stack. I personally wish for a chinese road frame with this kind of geometry.
Quote from: jo1673 on October 09, 2025, 03:23:57 AM
I actually quite like this geometry ... for a road bike. For a gravel bike I think it is too progressive, but probably designed around short stem lengths. This frame is in line with the Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 when it comes to reach and seat tube angle, albeit with a much taller stack. I personally wish for a chinese road frame with this kind of geometry.
Have you seen this one? https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6206.0.html
Pretty similar depending on size.
Quote from: jo1673 on October 09, 2025, 03:23:57 AM
I actually quite like this geometry ... for a road bike. For a gravel bike I think it is too progressive, but probably designed around short stem lengths. This frame is in line with the Ridley Noah Fast 3.0 when it comes to reach and seat tube angle, albeit with a much taller stack. I personally wish for a chinese road frame with this kind of geometry.
I looked long and hard at this frame or the velobuild aero gravel for the same reason.
I think if you put road forks on the VB it could be a winner.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on October 09, 2025, 05:11:06 AM
I looked long and hard at this frame or the velobuild aero gravel for the same reason.
I think if you put road forks on the VB it could be a winner.
I actually have the VB Aero gravel, but haven't ridden it yet. I probably won't use it as a road bike, though. One major difference from the Noah Fast 3.0 is that the VB has a chainstay length of 425, while the Noah has 407. Also, not quite as steep STA. Will absolutely try mine with large slick tires on the road, but still on the lookout for a new road frame.
Looked at the VB 368, but not a fan of many things about that frame, and also it is not nearly as "progressive" as the Noah.
Quote from: jo1673 on October 09, 2025, 05:48:37 AM
I actually have the VB Aero gravel, but haven't ridden it yet. I probably won't use it as a road bike, though. One major difference from the Noah Fast 3.0 is that the VB has a chainstay length of 425, while the Noah has 407. Also, not quite as steep STA. Will absolutely try mine with large slick tires on the road, but still on the lookout for a new road frame.
Looked at the VB 368, but not a fan of many things about that frame, and also it is not nearly as "progressive" as the Noah.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts on the VB.
I've got a vb368 on the way...I agree it's not perfect but we're going to give it a go :o
Good luck with the 368! I am actually considering the LTK 266-D-SL based on the glowing reviews in that topic :P But not 100% sold on the argument that frame aero doesn't really matter, and that aero looking does not equal actual aero (though I am a firm believer that position on the bike is king when it comes to aero). Kind of hard for the aero weenie in me to go for a frame seemingly without aero credentials ...
Quote from: jo1673 on October 09, 2025, 06:11:42 AM
Good luck with the 368! I am actually considering the LTK 266-D-SL based on the glowing reviews in that topic :P But not 100% sold on the argument that frame aero doesn't really matter, and that aero looking does not equal actual aero (though I am a firm believer that position on the bike is king when it comes to aero). Kind of hard for the aero weenie in me to go for a frame seemingly without aero credentials ...
Thanks...
I'll be going from an Ican FL1 (Aethosy) to the 368 to try something aeroish so we shall see.
Sorry to derail the thread folks.
Finally had a chance to take a look in the box, here's the hardware they included....
(https://i.ibb.co/dwsVvMMm/IMG-1620.jpg)
Pleasantly surprise they included an internal routing headset.
Internal storage
(https://i.ibb.co/1GDqNZFZ/IMG-1622.jpg)
Top of head tube - a little rough on one side but fine...
(https://i.ibb.co/M5PhZS2c/IMG-1623.jpg)
Bottom of head tube
(https://i.ibb.co/G3bVYP8h/IMG-1625.jpg)
Bottom bracket
(https://i.ibb.co/20FMtJWX/IMG-1624.jpg)
Seat tube
(https://i.ibb.co/tkWcwZZ/IMG-1627.jpg)
Closer look at the seat stay
(https://i.ibb.co/YTy6Rxfk/IMG-1626.jpg)
Overall, I'm impressed with the build quality given the price point.
I've seen some complaints about the aggressive geometry but I think it's overblown. Here's a comparison between a Medium FM316 (in the updated geometry put out by Mondince) and comparable Canyon Grail:
(https://i.ibb.co/xSPCVFK3/Screenshot-2025-10-12-134147.png)
(https://i.ibb.co/HfC4k84z/Screenshot-2025-10-12-134221.png)
I don't consider this to be extreme at all. I'm a gravel racer and have seen the natural progression of reach from novice to experienced rider over time. If speed is your concern then you run the risk of capping potential if you hem yourself into a restrictive range, IMO.
Many here had similar gripes about the Yishun R086 (https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=4338.0) but I've been perfectly fine with it (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4338.msg54540.html#msg54540), even with a 130mm stem.
That looks really nice!
Look forward to hearing how it rides :)
I didn't like the change in geometry, especially because it changed after placing the order.
Having a 24 mm increase in reach is a lot.
411mm reach with 563mm stack is pretty extreme for a size S gravel bike for me, also the 85mm BBdrop, same as the new Specialized Diverge, will lead to more pedal strikes riding offroad.
Canyon bike sizing is a bit weird IMHO, a size M bike is huge, I'd use a size XS canyon when for most other brand I'm on a M or an S.
If you compare the size XS grail it has a 385mm reach and 556mm stack, a lot lower than the original fm316 geometry but the reach figure is almost the same.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to have my frame delivered, from your pictures it looks quite good, how's the paintwork quality and finishing?
Quote from: lkip on October 12, 2025, 03:08:29 PM
I didn't like the change in geometry, especially because it changed after placing the order.
Having a 24 mm increase in reach is a lot.
411mm reach with 563mm stack is pretty extreme for a size S gravel bike for me, also the 85mm BBdrop, same as the new Specialized Diverge, will lead to more pedal strikes riding offroad.
Canyon bike sizing is a bit weird IMHO, a size M bike is huge, I'd use a size XS canyon when for most other brand I'm on a M or an S.
If you compare the size XS grail it has a 385mm reach and 556mm stack, a lot lower than the original fm316 geometry but the reach figure is almost the same.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to have my frame delivered, from your pictures it looks quite good, how's the paintwork quality and finishing?
I feel ya...they reached out to me after I placed my order as well. I'll adjust stem length as needed. Unfortunately, there's no easy adjustment for lower BB other than going to 160mm cranks 🤭 In reality though, how often are you pedaling through turns while banked on gravel? Happens in road on rare occasions...usually while racing.
However, the proof will be in the pudding. Hoping to get it built up later this month after Big Sugar and a few more events here in the US.
Update: Oops, forgot to mention the paint...no issues. Minor flaking at the edges (noticeable in my photos) that would otherwise be covered by headset cap/BB/collar. No defects or slopiness. Smooth and uniform. Time will tell with resilience but my Yishun (in black matte) has taken a beating in 2 seasons of racing with no chips or blemishes, so far.
It's a real shame they went for such a long reach in the geometry. At this point, you might as well go for a lightweight 29er hardtail frame.
Of course, "gravel" can mean very different things to different people: for some, it's mountain biking with drop bars, while for others it's a road-cycling alternative on unpaved roads. Personally, I lean more toward the latter and therefore I prefer an agile bike that corners sharply — something you don't get with such a long reach. Sure, it's more stable on the descents, but that's part of the charm of a gravel bike: it still challenges your skills.
Also it's a general remark for Mondice: It looks like there is no real thought behind their geometry. They just copy paste something from an existing brand, but apply it to a bike with different application as the one they copied it from.
Quote from: CJ on October 13, 2025, 12:05:05 AM
Unfortunately, there's no easy adjustment for lower BB other than going to 160mm cranks 🤭 In reality though, how often are you pedaling through turns while banked on gravel? Happens in road on rare occasions...usually while racing.
Shorter cranks, and bigger tires. 85mm drop makes a lot of sense if you're running 50+mm tires and 160mm cranks.
Hey folks
Probably a daft question, but do you just email them to order?
Cheers!
Quote from: Pistonbroke on October 19, 2025, 01:35:28 AM
Hey folks
Probably a daft question, but do you just email them to order?
Cheers!
Yeah. I've just ordered one that way.
Quote from: CJ on October 12, 2025, 01:56:53 PM
Finally had a chance to take a look in the box, here's the hardware they included....
Have you had a chance to measure the clearance for tires that are at least 50mm wide? How much space in mm is left between the tire and a frame?
My frame arrived eventually, I'm quite impressed with the paintjob, it looks very well done
Frame and fork are quite well finished, seatpost looks a bit cheap but nothing to worry about
Also the frame storage it's not just a cutout but an bathtub shaped insert inside the downtube, everything seems allright
I'll just to measure everything and make it work
Edit updated pictures
Any chance of using the forum image function as Imgur is blocks UK users?
Postimages.org is still working for UK too
Quote from: gribs on October 19, 2025, 03:16:59 PM
Any chance of using the forum image function as Imgur is blocks UK users?
Just curious, do the images I hosted on imgbb.com work for UK users?
Quote from: lkip on October 19, 2025, 02:51:22 PM
My frame arrived eventually, I'm quite impressed with the paintjob, it looks very well done
Frame and fork are quite well finished, seatpost looks a bit cheap but nothing to worry about
Also the frame storage it's not just a cutout but an bathtub shaped insert inside the downtube, everything seems allright
I'll just to measure everything and make it work now
Looks great! Can't make it out... what color is that? (chocolate?) Hilarious amount of clearance... seems you could fit 32inch wheels w/ road tires ;D
My gravel racing season done, my focus now shifts to this new build.
Weight (S):
Frame: 1282g
Fork: 464g
Some shots showing clearance w/ 50mm gravel tires (measured w/ digital caliper)
Fork...estimated 10mm clearance, which lines up with lkip's measurement:
(https://i.ibb.co/1tRXtK2v/IMG-1690.jpg)
Seat stay, robust clearance:
(https://i.ibb.co/PvW4hhNk/IMG-1691.jpg)
Rear well...estimated 8mm, again lining up with lkip's measurement:
(https://i.ibb.co/Q7jPBgXG/IMG-1693.jpg)
Seat tube clearance:
(https://i.ibb.co/dwfCmyGJ/IMG-1694.jpg)
Quote from: Pistonbroke on October 19, 2025, 01:35:28 AM
Hey folks
Probably a daft question, but do you just email them to order?
Cheers!
I used WhatsApp. They're very responsive.
Quote from: darkening on October 19, 2025, 07:56:02 AM
Have you had a chance to measure the clearance for tires that are at least 50mm wide? How much space in mm is left between the tire and a frame?
Just posted above...
Quote from: CJ on October 19, 2025, 09:42:10 PM
Rear well...estimated 8mm, again lining up with lkip's measurement:
Can you try to fit 8mm allen key... it fits?
Quote from: CJ on October 19, 2025, 08:03:15 PM
Just curious, do the images I hosted on imgbb.com work for UK users?
It appears to.
This frame looks really nice. A few more mm of clearance in the rear would be nice but this could work.
Are these measurements for the 395mm axle-to-crown fork?
What about chainring clearance?
Quote from: CJ on October 19, 2025, 09:24:35 PM
Looks great! Can't make it out... what color is that? (chocolate?) Hilarious amount of clearance... seems you could fit 32inch wheels w/ road tires ;D
It's candy red gloss trasparent paint over raw carbon.
With the awful neon light in my basement doesn't look red but outdoor with sunlight it's really nice.
I was hoping for a slighlty brighter red color but it's sleeker this way
Quote from: darkening on October 19, 2025, 11:24:51 PM
Can you try to fit 8mm allen key... it fits?
Sorry should have done this earlier. No 6mm barely fits and 5mm passes through easily... so I'd say 5.5mm clearance on the rear well w/ 50mm measured tires.
Quote from: Asco on October 20, 2025, 03:29:31 AM
This frame looks really nice. A few more mm of clearance in the rear would be nice but this could work.
Are these measurements for the 395mm axle-to-crown fork?
What about chainring clearance?
Yes, 395mm A-C but I haven't installed components yet
Quote from: lkip on October 20, 2025, 04:33:41 AM
It's candy red gloss trasparent paint over raw carbon.
With the awful neon light in my basement doesn't look red but outdoor with sunlight it's really nice.
I was hoping for a slighlty brighter red color but it's sleeker this way
That looks really good. I've ordered mine in a dark burgundy.
It is really nice frame indeed. I think the geometry looks very progressive and most gravel bikes turn this way in few years. Will probably place an order too...
Anyone tried to ride the frame so far? How is it?
First customer picture. That's a lot of spacers :o
Edit: Just noticed the fender bolts. Must have been their first batch.
(https://i.ibb.co/fzFzR34t/Whats-App-Image-2025-10-23-at-12-22-32-53c93238.jpg)
Quote from: Da11as on October 23, 2025, 01:04:04 PM
It is really nice frame indeed. I think the geometry looks very progressive and most gravel bikes turn this way in few years. Will probably place an order too...
Anyone tried to ride the frame so far? How is it?
Will start build this weekend. Waiting on a stem.
Thanks for posting the picture!
Do you think the seat tube in the photo looks slacker than the geometry chart would suggest?
Quote from: Pistonbroke on October 24, 2025, 01:18:35 AM
Thanks for posting the picture!
Do you think the seat tube in the photo looks slacker than the geometry chart would suggest?
I drew a rectangle from the middle of the BB to the middle of the saddle clamp and got horizontal distance of 196 pixels and vertical distance of 732 pixels.
That yields STA=arctan(732/196)=75.01 (in degrees)
One more thing on the geo on this frame. It was bothering me that the size S seemed to get so much more aggressive by the fork change than the other sizes. This seems to be yet another mistake.
Using https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ (https://www.bikegeocalc.com/), I set up the geo with the "intended" 420 A2C fork and then shortened the fork using the "rotate frame" setting.
Most of the measurements are correct, but the reach is off. It should be roughly 400mm reach with the 395 A2C fork. This also brings the size S in line with the other sizes, where swapping the fork yields ~+12mm reach and ~-10mm stack.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010174494247.html appeared on Ali
Good spot. Looks like they are only offering the slacker geometry variant though.
So does mondince sell through SP or does SP make them under licence or is SP mondince or what? :o
Quote from: xzoahx on October 28, 2025, 10:36:56 AM
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010174494247.html appeared on Ali
With the Ali 11/11 sales coming up this could potentially be very good value.
This looks really nice IMO, I really like the more progressive geometry. I currently have the Tideace Noah but the slack seat angle has been a problem, even a zero offset one with saddle put as forward as possible is a bit too far back for my liking. For anyone who has built this up with 2.1" Thunder Burts, how does the rear clearance look like? I am guessing pretty similar to the Tideace.
Quote from: xzoahx on October 28, 2025, 10:36:56 AM
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010174494247.html appeared on Ali
This one has completely different fork blades without flip-chip. I guess it is just the OEM at this point.
Geometry chart corrected:
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-aero-design-t47-bracket-gravel-bike-frame-fm316
BikeInsights Updated (v2):
https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/689cb67b11f2e8001a0c85b2-mondince-fm316
I contacted Mondince and was quoted 662 USD for the frame in black glossy paint shipped to Finland, delivered duty paid. Not bad! Now I have to just figure out the tyre clearance issue.
Quote from: Buffon_bj on October 31, 2025, 02:29:54 AM
I contacted Mondince and was quoted 662 USD for the frame in black glossy paint shipped to Finland, delivered duty paid. Not bad! Now I have to just figure out the tyre clearance issue.
Look at page 4 and 5 for rear clearance measurements. Looks about the same as a Noah.
These constant GEO changes are really scaring me off this frame. That BB drop on the newest Sixe S v2 is scary low for me.
Quote from: Asco on October 31, 2025, 03:23:12 AM
Look at page 4 and 5 for rear clearance measurements. Looks about the same as a Noah.
Yeah I saw the pics, what I meant was that I wanted to compare the measurements to my Noah. If anything, the rear clearance on the Noah looked a tiny bit smaller from side to side – by a millimetre or two, although my measurements were probably not that precise.
So yeah, looks good on that front. I ordered the frame yesterday evening. Hoping it will arrive soon, although I don't know if I will ride it much this year (I live in Finland, and I have another bike with fenders which I will fit my studded winter tires to). I will send pictures once it arrives in any case!
Frame and fork weight for a size S with udh installed
(https://i.ibb.co/YFBPT3gX/20251026-162122.jpg)[/url]
(https://i.ibb.co/cSSvkBNJ/20251026-162049.jpg)[/url]
(https://i.ibb.co/YBM1r9js/20251026-161851.jpg)[/url]
(https://i.ibb.co/pB6YhfhV/20251026-161642.jpg)[/url]
(https://i.ibb.co/JRCS1H87/20251026-161337.jpg)[/url]
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
Looks Great!
What size tire/rim width and what does the clearance in the rear look like?
Quote from: impmonkey on November 03, 2025, 03:55:37 PM
Looks Great!
What size tire/rim width and what does the clearance in the rear look like?
47mm tires that measure 50mm on 27mm internal width rims. I'll get some shots showing clearance.
Quote from: CJ on November 03, 2025, 12:09:59 PM
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
What a beautiful bike, Im about to order a frame, I cant wait to hear your ride report.
Quote from: CJ on November 03, 2025, 12:09:59 PM
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
Congratulations on the build.
I'm also waiting for two FM316 frames and was a little skeptical, but now that I've seen your build, it's fantastic.
I wanted to ask you a few questions:
what brand and type of bottom bracket did you use?
As a crankset, did you use a standard DUB spindle with a single chainring with how many teeth? Do you think it's possible to build a 48 or 50 mm single chainring with a wide axle?
What size is the bike and how tall are you?
What size is the saddle height?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to take this opportunity to understand a few things about the frame.
Quote from: Agost165 on November 04, 2025, 03:49:03 PM
Congratulations on the build.
I'm also waiting for two FM316 frames and was a little skeptical, but now that I've seen your build, it's fantastic.
I wanted to ask you a few questions:
what brand and type of bottom bracket did you use?
As a crankset, did you use a standard DUB spindle with a single chainring with how many teeth? Do you think it's possible to build a 48 or 50 mm single chainring with a wide axle?
What size is the bike and how tall are you?
What size is the saddle height?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to take this opportunity to understand a few things about the frame.
Thanks! I also ordered 2 (S for me, XL for a friend) and will likely pull the trigger on an L for another friend. Leaving shortly on a maiden 3hr ride with a local fast group and can't wait!
Bottom bracket: Wolf Tooth T47 (29mm Spindle) (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/t47-internal-bottom-bracket?variant=40732078112803)
SRAM DUB Wide 42T in the previous photo but I've since installed 44T. Just eye-balling, it seems a 50T would fit:
(https://i.ibb.co/j9km1K5M/IMG-1763.jpg)
I'm 175cm tall and size S is perfect.
Saddle height 685-690mm
No worries on the questions... keep 'em coming!
Took the FM316 out to my local hammer-fest (100% tarmac). Here's the Strava activity (https://www.strava.com/activities/16359032134/analysis/2568/8322). 11mi/18km commute to and from. Received several compliments and inquiries, which is always gratifying ;D
For comparison, my previous gravel bike was an Ari Shafer (M) (https://bikeinsights.com/bike-geometries/61bbdd8ee7d6df0021153a26-2022-ari-bicycles-fezzari-shafer-base-m). Same touchpoints, same wheels (45mm deep, 50mm tires w/ Vittoria liners) which gives a good isolated assessment of the frame. It came in at 19lbs/8.6kg (w/ pedals), about 5% lighter.
The FM316 has a smaller trail (-10.5mm) and considerably less wheelbase (-39mm) so it's no surprise it felt much more comparatively like a road bike. What surprised me is how supple and less harsh it felt given the more aggressive geometry.
The bike also "feels" fast. Even with 50mm tires w/ liners I had no problem handling surges. This ride has quite a number of stop lights (19 tonight) but still averaged 22.1mph/35.5kph needing just 199w/263NP (I'm 70kg) and a low RPE (tapering for race on Saturday).
IMO the "aero" designation is well-deserved. To illustrate, here's a 36s segment on a slight decline (only -2.3% avg) where I did 0 pedal revs and *passed* other riders on road bikes in full slipstream. Notice the uptick in speed using 0 power:
(https://i.ibb.co/kVHHMTZP/FM316-aero.jpg)
Sure, I was partially tucked but still impressed how much more quickly I gained speed while others soft-pedaled, in-draft, on faster road tires. Again... I'm on 50mm w/ liners!
The true test will be on actual gravel this Saturday. I hope to get some drone shots on trails after the race.
(https://i.ibb.co/rK1ZhDbb/IMG-1790.jpg)
Your bike looks amazing, and the performance you report seems great as well. Can't wait to get mine! Your build is very similar to what I am transferring from my Tideace (Force XPLR 13s, similar wheels).
CJ that build is a beauty!
Thanks for all the information, much appreciated.
Quote from: CJ on November 05, 2025, 12:03:27 AM
Took the FM316 out to my local hammer-fest (100% tarmac). Here's the Strava activity (https://www.strava.com/activities/16359032134/analysis/2568/8322). 11mi/18km commute to and from. Received several compliments and inquiries, which is always gratifying ;D
For comparison, my previous gravel bike was an Ari Shafer (M) (https://bikeinsights.com/bike-geometries/61bbdd8ee7d6df0021153a26-2022-ari-bicycles-fezzari-shafer-base-m). Same touchpoints, same wheels (45mm deep, 50mm tires w/ Vittoria liners) which gives a good isolated assessment of the frame. It came in at 19lbs/8.6kg (w/ pedals), about 5% lighter.
The FM316 has a smaller trail (-10.5mm) and considerably less wheelbase (-39mm) so it's no surprise it felt much more comparatively like a road bike. What surprised me is how supple and less harsh it felt given the more aggressive geometry.
The bike also "feels" fast. Even with 50mm tires w/ liners I had no problem handling surges. This ride has quite a number of stop lights (19 tonight) but still averaged 22.1mph/35.5kph needing just 199w/263NP (I'm 70kg) and a low RPE (tapering for race on Saturday).
IMO the "aero" designation is well-deserved. To illustrate, here's a 36s segment on a slight decline (only -2.3% avg) where I did 0 pedal revs and *passed* other riders on road bikes in full slipstream. Notice the uptick in speed using 0 power:
Sure, I was partially tucked but still impressed how much more quickly I gained speed while others soft-pedaled, in-draft, on faster road tires. Again... I'm on 50mm w/ liners!
The true test will be on actual gravel this Saturday. I hope to get some drone shots on trails after the race.
Ahh hell alright Ill buy one lol
Quote from: impmonkey on November 03, 2025, 03:55:37 PM
Looks Great!
What size tire/rim width and what does the clearance in the rear look like?
50mm tires (measured)
(https://i.ibb.co/27d5tHm1/IMG-1762.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/chs4DnLb/IMG-1761.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vxY967fc/IMG-1758.jpg)
How much seatpost is left inside the frame? S would be the go to size for me as i'm riding a cube nuroad in M right know. But with an 87cm inseam i need 765mm.
Size M would have a 30mm longer seattube but also 25mm more reach...
Oh and do they offer some kind of pouch for the storage compartment or do you just throw your stuff in?
Quote from: SirBikealot on November 05, 2025, 10:07:50 AM
How much seatpost is left inside the frame?
188mm (I'd say ~70mm usable...sorry I forgot to measure to max line :-[) left @ 685mm saddle height on size S:
(https://i.ibb.co/GQRBDdp2/IMG-1796.jpg)
Quote from: SirBikealot on November 05, 2025, 10:07:50 AM
Oh and do they offer some kind of pouch for the storage compartment or do you just throw your stuff in?
Yep, here's a picture of the provided pouch:
(https://i.ibb.co/ks1YSty8/IMG-1795.jpg)
Quote from: CJ on November 04, 2025, 04:51:01 PM
I'm 175cm tall and size S is perfect.
Saddle height 685-690mm
Do you have a toe overlap with this?
Quote from: darkening on November 05, 2025, 10:19:55 PM
Do you have a toe overlap with this?
No toe overlap, clear by 1cm
Looks like the version with the different geo and 420mm A-C fork is also available again, but under a new model "FM326". See the Mondince site https://mondincecycle.com/product/t47-bracet-420mm-fork-chinese-new-t000-carbon-aero-design-gravel-bike-frame-fm326 (https://mondincecycle.com/product/t47-bracet-420mm-fork-chinese-new-t000-carbon-aero-design-gravel-bike-frame-fm326)
Thanks for pointing it out, Strobot! I think the FM326 will make a lot of people happy
Geo comparison:
(https://i.ibb.co/20gnx8VZ/FM316-FM326.jpg)
If this one only was slightly different... The 395mm fork version should have one size bigger headtube and seattube... With that i mean, if the small had 380mm seattube and 148mm headtube but otherwise keep the other measurements, then this frame would be perfect. I actually like the steep seattube myself 👍😀
What's with that 85,5mm BB drop for FM316?
Most of the frames I checked have 75mm BB drop, some of them 80mm. Isn't 85,5 too much?
Quote from: d.m. on November 07, 2025, 06:12:26 AM
What's with that 85,5mm BB drop for FM316?
Most of the frames I checked have 75mm BB drop, some of them 80mm. Isn't 85,5 too much?
That's the general trend towards MTB domain, will increase top speed and off-road control too. That's why by default they recommend shorter cranks
Quote from: CJ on November 03, 2025, 12:09:59 PM
NBD! Haven't ridden it yet (unless you count up and down the street)...I still need to add brake fluid.
Build process was straight forward. The only difficultly I had was getting the hose underneath the internal storage compartment. There's apparently a narrow channel. I exited the hose out from the BB shell, then looped back in for better control and was able to get it through up the down tube.
I can earnestly say the reach concerns are unfounded. I'm actually -3 cm less from saddle tip to stem clamp compared to my previous bike. Granted, I sized down from 130mm to 110mm stem.
I plan to take it out on a fast tarmac group ride tomorrow. Will report back.
(https://i.ibb.co/3L6WHTT/IMG-1730.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hKhZpB/IMG-1735.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/j99D0szz/IMG-1736.jpg)
This bike build looks stunning.
In the process of building up XMCS's Grevil Clone for my gravel race bike next year, but this bike and the colour just looks really good! Very impressive (slightly envious).
Thought this might help others with their builds. Does anyone have experience w/ this type of headset cap?
The provided cap has 4 holes w/ 4
open caps pre-installed and 2
closed caps provided separately
(https://i.ibb.co/Kc7FYQgm/IMG-1808-compressed.jpg)
- You'll only want 2 open caps if running electronic shifting (to prevent dirt/water from entering)
- You'll want to decide which holes are closed BEFORE installing headset/hoses/etc.
- In my case, the rear hose is routed through the left hole (to the right brake lever) while the front through the right
- The disparity in angle/tension caused the cap to settle in a skewed position
- I think this type of cap fares better with more spacers but my stem is pretty slammed
- Not an issue per se, more of an aesthetic thing
Perhaps the cap would align better using different holes, routing the front hose around the steerer tube, or both?
You may want to experiment before securing hoses.
(https://i.ibb.co/bkMPBX7/IMG-1794.jpg)
Quote from: CJ on November 04, 2025, 04:51:01 PM
Thanks! I also ordered 2 (S for me, XL for a friend) and will likely pull the trigger on an L for another friend. Leaving shortly on a maiden 3hr ride with a local fast group and can't wait!
No worries on the questions... keep 'em coming!
I am very close to ordering a L frame, Your build has inspired me, I am now super excited and the bike is really good looking to add. I would love to see how a L or XL looks built up, Cant wait for more coverage.
In your size, assembled with Sram Force XPLR, how much does the complete bike weigh?
How much do the bare wheels weigh, and what model are they?
8) 8)
I was almost decided on the Velobuild Aero Grav, but this Mondince looks tempting. I'll have to think about it, as I want to order a frame in the next few days.
Hi guys, can this frame also fit 50 mm rear tire using a 2x groupset with a front derailleur (GRX, which has +2.5 mm chainline)?
I take a seat on this thread:)
Recently ordered L frame
Quote from: Agost165 on November 08, 2025, 12:41:19 AM
In your size, assembled with Sram Force XPLR, how much does the complete bike weigh?
How much do the bare wheels weigh, and what model are they?
8) 8)
My Small w/ SRAM Force XPLR E1, Yoeleo C45 gravel wheels, and 50mm tires w/ liners has a total bike weight of 19lbs/8.62kg (incl. pedals)
The bare wheels weigh 1390g (645g F/745g R) or 3.06lbs
Today was my 3rd ride on the FM316, 1st on gravel at a race in West Texas. The bike was amazing. As reported in my 1st ride on tarmac (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg96203.html#msg96203), it feels very much like a road bike while maintaining compliance and stability. I felt in full control on loose turns amidst a pack, managed washboards without much discomfort, and descended w/ ease. It accelerates much better than what I was previously used to. In short, it performed flawlessly. (I, on the other hand, did not (https://www.strava.com/activities/16397044048/overview))
Some shots after the race:
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExanhleWlicTZ3Nm1ya3NpZGx5bnBscjJiM3QzejA4dHpvZTMwczNudiZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/GXs8BrRsjIuOlnPCFT/giphy.gif)
(https://i.ibb.co/PGQ4QTHb/IMG-1817.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ch1NgPFd/IMG-1819.jpg)
Thanks for the update. So tempted to get one...
Bike looks great, and I think you're doing yourself a disservice! That looks like a pretty sporty ride to me :-)
Quote from: CJ on November 09, 2025, 12:34:47 AM
Some shots after the race:
Hi! I agree with the opinion that the bike looks great.
I have two questions. Please tell me what is your height, frame size (If I'm not mistaken, it's a S) and stem length.
And I'm also interested in the screw hole (for fixing the trunk) in the crown of the fork
Quote from: cosmostar on November 09, 2025, 09:09:23 AM
Hi! I agree with the opinion that the bike looks great.
I have two questions. Please tell me what is your height, frame size (If I'm not mistaken, it's a S) and stem length.
And I'm also interested in the screw hole (for fixing the trunk) in the crown of the fork
Thanks!
Height: 5'9"/175cm
Frame Size: S
Stem: 110mm -17° stem
And yes, there's a screw underneath the crown of the fork
Quote from: CJ on November 09, 2025, 12:34:47 AM
Some shots after the race:
Didn't you have enough shots during the race?!
Awesome bike!
Quote from: Asco on November 10, 2025, 07:25:03 AM
Didn't you have enough shots during the race?!
Awesome bike!
Waiting... they usually have a livestream, there was a guy recording from his phone but I guess it wasn't livestreamed this year. There were definitely photographers on course, I just emailed the organizer to inquire.
I was (trying to) make a joke about the fact that you did actual fireball shots during the race, but I would love to see more photos as well :)
Quote from: Asco on November 10, 2025, 08:10:49 AM
I was (trying to) make a joke about the fact that you did actual fireball shots during the race, but I would love to see more photos as well :)
LMAO...good one!!!! Whoooosh...my bad 🫣
The interesting thing with this forum being so international, I realize English is a 2nd language for many so I subconsciously account for mistranslation and simplify things in my head...then this happens ;D
I barely started feeling better last night. I never want to think about alcohol or "shots" ever again lol
Thanks for the pics and updates CJ! Much appreciated.
I will probably also go for this frame. At first I was hoping for some black Friday deals for the Propain Terrel, but the higher end builds are now out of stock (EU). Only not sure if I should go for the FM316 or FM326 model. I have a MTB background and this will be my first gravel bike (or any drop bars bike for that matter). Not really looking for races, but going for longer distances and some bikepacking in the future. The less aggressive position on the FM326 will be an easier transition I guess. Any thoughts?
Quote from: Strobot on November 10, 2025, 01:55:47 PM
Thanks for the pics and updates CJ! Much appreciated.
I will probably also go for this frame. At first I was hoping for some black Friday deals for the Propain Terrel, but the higher end builds are now out of stock (EU). Only not sure if I should go for the FM316 or FM326 model. I have a MTB background and this will be my first gravel bike (or any drop bars bike for that matter). Not really looking for races, but going for longer distances and some bikepacking in the future. The less aggressive position on the FM326 will be an easier transition I guess. Any thoughts?
I am am looking to get one too, The FM326 and 316 are identical outside of the fork from my understanding.
I pulled the trigger and ordered FM316.
I liked CJ's bike so much that I ordered the same color (sorry CJ! ::))
Quote from: CJ on November 09, 2025, 12:34:47 AM
Today was my 3rd ride on the FM316, 1st on gravel at a race in West Texas. The bike was amazing. As reported in my 1st ride on tarmac (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg96203.html#msg96203), it feels very much like a road bike while maintaining compliance and stability. I felt in full control on loose turns amidst a pack, managed washboards without much discomfort, and descended w/ ease. It accelerates much better than what I was previously used to. In short, it performed flawlessly. (I, on the other hand, did not (https://www.strava.com/activities/16397044048/overview))
Some shots after the race:
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExanhleWlicTZ3Nm1ya3NpZGx5bnBscjJiM3QzejA4dHpvZTMwczNudiZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/GXs8BrRsjIuOlnPCFT/giphy.gif)
(https://i.ibb.co/PGQ4QTHb/IMG-1817.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ch1NgPFd/IMG-1819.jpg)
Love the bike! What outfront mount solution do you have?
Quote from: d.m. on November 11, 2025, 02:29:18 AM
I pulled the trigger and ordered FM316.
I liked CJ's bike so much that I ordered the same color (sorry CJ! ::))
Congrats and no worries at all! Color was an afterthought for me... the one on the site was fine. My friend on the other hand was VERY particular taking a couple days of deliberation before settling specific 2-tone scheme lol
Quote from: Dinmamma123 on November 11, 2025, 10:28:14 AM
Love the bike! What outfront mount solution do you have?
Thanks! It's a SoPro Out Front mount:
https://soprocycling.com/products/out-front-bracket
They also have a dual mount adapter (to use an action cam):
https://soprocycling.com/products/dual-mount-adapter
There's also this curved one on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1867580350/start-number-holder-curved-race-number
I just got a message from Mondince that my frame is now shipped. 12 days from ordering, not bad! Now it'll probably take a couple of weeks for it to arrive here to Finland.
I got the same this morning but after ordering in mid October. Hopefully it'll be here in a week or two.
Some pics of the FM316 in action this past Saturday
(https://i.ibb.co/BHbYhf9R/vgg01a.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/B8QHnMy/vgg03a.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/DfYGxZbN/vgg05a.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/BHCkc6P8/vgg06a.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Gv7PYVkX/vgg07a.jpg)
Great photos CJ!
Any further thoughts? Curious how you're finding that steep seat tube - I'm finding that quite an attractive proposition :-)
Looking good!
I also ordered one today, but went with the 420 A-C fork.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on November 14, 2025, 10:31:42 AM
Great photos CJ!
Any further thoughts? Curious how you're finding that steep seat tube - I'm finding that quite an attractive proposition :-)
Not squirrely at all, granted sample size of one event with little technicality. I'm 50/50 on doing a race on 12/7 which would offer more technical sections but I think I have a good impression already.
Finally completed my bike.
Kn a very quick test on my commute the bike feels good, front it's very stable but it's still responding quite quickly to any input from the handlebar. I'm using an 80mm stem I had lying around but there's still some work to do on my fit on the bike.
I'll be testing it properly in the weekend
Quote from: lkip on November 18, 2025, 12:38:36 PM
Finally completed my bike.
Kn a very quick test on my commute the bike feels good, front it's very stable but it's still responding quite quickly to any input from the handlebar. I'm using an 80mm stem I had lying around but there's still some work to do on my fit on the bike.
I'll be testing it properly in the weekend
Looks great! Which tires are you using? I'm waiting for one (from Spcycle) and I want to use 700x50c tires with a GRX mechanical 2x groupset. Do you think there is enough clearance for that with the front derailleur?
Quote from: emilioea on November 18, 2025, 01:00:57 PM
Looks great! Which tires are you using? I'm waiting for one (from Spcycle) and I want to use 700x50c tires with a GRX mechanical 2x groupset. Do you think there is enough clearance for that with the front derailleur?
I'm using maxxis rambler 45mm on 23mm internal width vision wheels (to be upgraded).
I don't have any close up picture for the front derailleur but I think 50s tyres will fit no problem.
Quote from: lkip on November 18, 2025, 01:24:45 PM
I'm using maxxis rambler 45mm on 23mm internal width vision wheels (to be upgraded).
I don't have any close up picture for the front derailleur but I think 50s tyres will fit no problem.
Great to know, thanks! I'm looking forward to start building the bike.
I am looking to get a Mondince FM316 in XS, I was told the molds are not ready for another 40 days. I currently ride a 52CM Santa Cruz Stigmata and a 51CM Cervelo S5 and I am 5'6" tall. The sales person I have been in contact with keeps trying to push me towards a size small but everything thing in the geo chart compared to my current bikes is telling me to wait for the XS. Any insight from current owners?
Thank you!
Quote from: chaseme746 on November 19, 2025, 08:15:27 AM
I am looking to get a Mondince FM316 in XS, I was told the molds are not ready for another 40 days. I currently ride a 52CM Santa Cruz Stigmata and a 51CM Cervelo S5 and I am 5'6" tall. The sales person I have been in contact with keeps trying to push me towards a size small but everything thing in the geo chart compared to my current bikes is telling me to wait for the XS. Any insight from current owners?
Thank you!
Comparing with the bikes you already own, it seems the FM316 XS is better for you.
Quote from: Strobot on November 10, 2025, 01:55:47 PM
Thanks for the pics and updates CJ! Much appreciated.
I will probably also go for this frame. At first I was hoping for some black Friday deals for the Propain Terrel, but the higher end builds are now out of stock (EU). Only not sure if I should go for the FM316 or FM326 model. I have a MTB background and this will be my first gravel bike (or any drop bars bike for that matter). Not really looking for races, but going for longer distances and some bikepacking in the future. The less aggressive position on the FM326 will be an easier transition I guess. Any thoughts?
I have the exact same question, 316 vs 326, what does the different fork and angles do, and why offer both?
FM316 has a more aggressive position (lower and longer) vs the 326 which is more relaxed. The 326 is the same geometry as the Mondraker Arid. I'm waiting for the SPcycle g026, which is the same as the 326, since the 316 was too long and low for me.
Main drawback of the 316 is the low bottom bracket, pedalling mid corner is riskier, but you're positioned more "in the bike" rather than on top of it making it more stable.
The new diverge has the same BBdrop as the 316 so it's low but not crazy low.
Off road tracks where I live are bumpy and rocky and pedal strickes are likely, so I ordered also the longer fork, should be on its way, I'll keep you updated on the differences I experience with the fork swap.
Quote from: d.m. on November 11, 2025, 02:29:18 AM
I pulled the trigger and ordered FM316.
I liked CJ's bike so much that I ordered the same color (sorry CJ! ::))
Hi there, I just ordered this frame from Spcycle and I'm trying to decide the color.
Does anyone know what's the name of the base color (better yet the RAL number) presented on the mondince website. That's probably the same color as CJ's and d.m.'s. ?
Thanks for your help.
Hi, is the stem clanp diameter standard 1 1/8 ?
Quote from: uplined on November 21, 2025, 08:07:09 AM
Hi, is the stem clanp diameter standard 1 1/8 ?
Yes, standard round 1 1/8
Hello,
I'm building my first gravel bike and I'm considering these frames. Up to now, I've only ridden road bikes and a cyclocross bike in winter. I'm trying to replicate my road position as much as possible, but both frames have too high a stack in size L, which I can't compensate for with a 100 mm −17° stem.
If I go one size smaller (M) on the FM326, buy an offset seatpost, and use a normal-looking 110 mm -10° stem/integrated handlebar, it should work — or am I missing something? Maybe toe overlap?
Height: 186 cm
Inseam: 90 cm
Thanks for any advice
I'm planning to buy two Mondice/Spcycle FM326 frames:
one for myself (190 cm) and one for my wife (185 cm).
I'm completely unsure about the sizing because the reach on the FM326 is much longer than on our current Scott Addict RC (L and XL). The difference in frame length is huge.
I'm considering several options:
Two size L frames (one with an 80 mm stem, one with a 90 mm stem)
-One size M and one size L
-One L with a 70 mm stem and one XL with an 80 mm stem
-One top of that, I'm also lost between choosing a Wheeltop electronic groupset or an LTWOO one.
If you were in my situation, which one would you choose: Wheeltop or LTWOO? And which frame sizes would you pick for 190 cm and 185 cm riders?
Quote from: Jumpi on November 23, 2025, 04:44:06 PM
I'm planning to buy two Mondice/Spcycle FM326 frames:
one for myself (190 cm) and one for my wife (185 cm).
I'm completely unsure about the sizing because the reach on the FM326 is much longer than on our current Scott Addict RC (L and XL). The difference in frame length is huge.
I'm considering several options:
Two size L frames (one with an 80 mm stem, one with a 90 mm stem)
-One size M and one size L
-One L with a 70 mm stem and one XL with an 80 mm stem
-One top of that, I'm also lost between choosing a Wheeltop electronic groupset or an LTWOO one.
If you were in my situation, which one would you choose: Wheeltop or LTWOO? And which frame sizes would you pick for 190 cm and 185 cm riders?
Got the chance to ride the current Canyon Grail which has roughy the same geometry (4mm more reach, 1mm more stack in size M which i rode). They use a 70mm stem for M and L and 80 for there XL and XXL frames. which imho fits qiute well. For reference i'm 180cm with a 87cm inseam.
Quote from: Jumpi on November 23, 2025, 04:44:06 PM
I'm planning to buy two Mondice/Spcycle FM326 frames:
one for myself (190 cm) and one for my wife (185 cm).
I'm completely unsure about the sizing because the reach on the FM326 is much longer than on our current Scott Addict RC (L and XL). The difference in frame length is huge.
Did you consider seat tube angle?
Yes, FM326 looks long when you are looking at the reach value. But it has 75 degrees seat tube angle. 1,4 deg more than Addict RC. Sounds like not much? I wouldn't say so.
For my 174cm and ~715mm BB to saddle top distance a difference of 1,4 degrees will move a saddle ~17 mm forward which in my opinion isn't insignificant.
Quote from: Vaclav on November 23, 2025, 01:01:34 PM
Hello,
I'm building my first gravel bike and I'm considering these frames. Up to now, I've only ridden road bikes and a cyclocross bike in winter. I'm trying to replicate my road position as much as possible, but both frames have too high a stack in size L, which I can't compensate for with a 100 mm −17° stem.
If I go one size smaller (M) on the FM326, buy an offset seatpost, and use a normal-looking 110 mm -10° stem/integrated handlebar, it should work — or am I missing something? Maybe toe overlap?
Height: 186 cm
Inseam: 90 cm
Thanks for any advice
The FM316 has the same frame with a 25 mm shorter fork, so it has quite a low stack size (too low for my taste, actually). So I'd be surprised if you still find that too high.
Mine arrived today. Initial impressions are generally good. Brake mounts appear clean and flat, the headset mounted snuggly with minimal gaps, and the bottom bracket went in smoothly by hand. The internal surfaces appear to be smooth and clean. The only slight disappointment is the masking on the accessory mounts but I intend to replace the bolts with rubber bungs so hopefully it'll be covered.
Mine arrived today. Initial impressions are generally good. Brake mounts appear clean and flat, the headset mounted snuggly with minimal gaps, and the bottom bracket went in smoothly by hand. The internal surfaces appear to be smooth and clean. The only slight disappointment is the masking on the accessory mounts but I intend to replace the bolts with rubber bungs so hopefully it'll be covered.
The frame is beautiful,
What size is it again?
It's a medium and the colour is PANTONE 7449 C glossy.
Finally got back after a couple weeks in Tucson, AZ. Here's my friend's XL FM316. He's 195cm/6'5" tall
(https://i.ibb.co/v4Hk78hz/IMG-1983.jpg)
Quote from: CJ on November 30, 2025, 02:04:27 PM
Finally got back after a couple weeks in Tucson, AZ. Here's my friend's XL FM316. He's 175cm/6'5" tall
I suppose your friend is 195cm rather than 175. That's a nice looking bike and the first XL ive seen. I ordered XL myself from spcycle shop on ali, the price was too tempting. I'm going to swap out my current velobuild aero grav some time during the winter.
Quote from: pavlo.k on November 30, 2025, 02:48:55 PM
I suppose your friend is 195cm rather than 175. That's a nice looking bike and the first XL ive seen. I ordered XL myself from spcycle shop on ali, the price was too tempting. I'm going to swap out my current velobuild aero grav some time during the winter.
Sorry yes 195cm 🤦 ...corrected
My size L frame arrived yesterday, will switch all the components to it soon!
Quote from: Joey on December 01, 2025, 12:48:38 PM
Jumped on the bandwagon, picked up the SPCYCLE G026 on Aliexpress for like $450 tax in. Not a huge fan of the looks of it, but in the market for a gravel frame, virtually identical geometry to Canyon grail, and couldnt resist the price lol.
Im 183cm with a 86mm inseam, picked up a size M based on the Canyon sizing chart.
I got a g026 with grey paint on 11/11. Delivered to usa 11/20. Total cost after all the 11/11 discounts(coup,rak,paypal) was just under 350 for a painted frameset. No seatpost or bars included in that. Frame and paint is very good qc. Just the bottom bracket seems off, somewhat hard to install. I could very easily cross thread the Bb and getting it in straight took some attempts
Here it is built up, the LBS was super fast. No problems with the BB, paint, brake mounts etc. Clearance with 48mm Thunderos on 25IW rims (wam just under 50mm) is really great. I will ride it on tarmac this afternoon and tweak the fit a bit. Really loving how this looks, the back end and top tube is quite slender and I really like how that pairs with the bigger rubber. The Tideace Noah I had previously looked much more porky.
Looks good, how much extra room is there for bigger tyres?
Quote from: Ghandy on December 03, 2025, 01:15:13 AM
Looks good, how much extra room is there for bigger tyres?
I could just fit a 6mm hex key in the seatstays. Looks quite identical to what I had previously on my Tideace Noah.
Back from my first ride, easy 3h on the asphalt with a few kilometres of light gravel. Averaged 31km/h with 221W average power and 48mm Tufo Thunderos – not bad! The bike felt very good to ride, perhaps a bit more compliant in the back end than the Tideace so that's a nice plus. I really liked the more aggressive position.
Do you think integrated handlebar would fit FM316 as manufacturer recomends separate stem and bar? Something like KOCEVLO X01. Any suggestions?
Quote from: shokas on December 03, 2025, 10:42:54 AM
Do you think integrated handlebar would fit FM316 as manufacturer recomends separate stem and bar? Something like KOCEVLO X01. Any suggestions?
I see no reason why they wouldn't.
Quote from: Buffon_bj on December 03, 2025, 12:19:57 AM
Here it is built up, the LBS was super fast. No problems with the BB, paint, brake mounts etc. Clearance with 48mm Thunderos on 25IW rims (wam just under 50mm) is really great. I will ride it on tarmac this afternoon and tweak the fit a bit. Really loving how this looks, the back end and top tube is quite slender and I really like how that pairs with the bigger rubber. The Tideace Noah I had previously looked much more porky.
Hi, congratulations on the bike, also built with top-notch components. As for the crankset, did you use a standard SRAM or a longer Wide axle? Total weight and size of the bike?
Is there a spacer kit for fully integrated routing into the handlebar? All pictures seem to have a semi integrated solution with cables running through the headset but externally routed at the stem?
Quote from: Agost165 on December 03, 2025, 04:28:54 PM
Hi, congratulations on the bike, also built with top-notch components. As for the crankset, did you use a standard SRAM or a longer Wide axle? Total weight and size of the bike?
Thank you! I just weighed it at just under 8.5kg with pedals and bottle cages, the size is L. It is a Dub Wide crankset.
Quote from: Dinmamma123 on December 04, 2025, 02:33:30 AM
Is there a spacer kit for fully integrated routing into the handlebar? All pictures seem to have a semi integrated solution with cables running through the headset but externally routed at the stem?
It uses a "standard" 52mm x 40mm x 7mm top bearing with a circular cover so finding something to fit should be easy. Precisely what you need will depend on the integrated bar.
Looks like CWind is reselling the FM326 model, with the longer fork, frameset now.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810089295233.html?spm=a2g0o.tm1000027200.7420763720.1.63351f71Pxm1eQ&afTraceInfo=1005010275609985__pc__recallUserLandingRecommendPage__7aJEqu5__1764855689040&aecmd=true&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
I just ordered a FM326 + fork without rivets, painted in PANTONE 5535 C. Now the wait begins!! ;D
Quote from: Svurre on December 04, 2025, 08:08:30 AM
I just ordered a FM326 + fork without rivets, painted in PANTONE 5535 C. Now the wait begins!! ;D
would love to see a picture, when you get the frame, as im thinking of a similar color. My roadframe is PT560C and a matching gravel bike could be nice ;D
My road bike is a similar green and I wanted a completely different colour so I can easily explain to my wife which bike I'm talking about.
Quote from: gribs on December 04, 2025, 11:26:24 AM
My road bike is a similar green and I wanted a completely different colour so I can easily explain to my wife which bike I'm talking about.
but now she knows you have differnt bikes. I can than say that i only have the green one ;)
Quote from: dbeezie on December 04, 2025, 07:46:19 AM
Looks like CWind is reselling the FM326 model, with the longer fork, frameset now.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810089295233.html?spm=a2g0o.tm1000027200.7420763720.1.63351f71Pxm1eQ&afTraceInfo=1005010275609985__pc__recallUserLandingRecommendPage__7aJEqu5__1764855689040&aecmd=true&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Shipping to Australia is $207AUD. Sound fair?
Can someone stuff a 55-56mm WAM tire in the front and let us know if it clears? If this can take a 2.2 in the fork it's probably the best option out there for people looking for a more aggressive Seigla
Received my frame today.
I ordered on November 10, 2025, so shipping to Poland took less than 4 weeks.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/e8735d4f8a1d1.jpg)
EDIT:
After a closer look, I must unfortunately say that the quality control is very poor.
I can't assemble seatpost wedge. It doesn't fit because there is a large lump of resin where wedge should enter.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/1b21f937916db.jpg)
(https://zapodaj.net/images/c0a546c38285b.jpg)
Yikes, that is unfortunate. Hopefully they will make it right.
where did you ordered it?
I made the PO to Mondince on November 7 and seems I still need to wait 1-2weeks more until arrival to Spain...
Quote from: d.m. on December 05, 2025, 03:15:37 PM
Received my frame today.
I ordered on November 10, 2025, so shipping to Poland took less than 4 weeks.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/e8735d4f8a1d1.jpg)
EDIT:
After a closer look, I must unfortunately say that the quality control is very poor.
I can't assemble seatpost wedge. It doesn't fit because there is a large lump of resin where wedge should enter.
(https://zapodaj.net/images/1b21f937916db.jpg)
(https://zapodaj.net/images/c0a546c38285b.jpg)
Quote from: impmonkey on December 05, 2025, 05:28:37 PM
Yikes, that is unfortunate. Hopefully they will make it right.
They said it's not a resin but a glue and asked me to try to remove it with a knife...
Quote from: RDC on December 06, 2025, 01:04:03 AM
where did you ordered it?
I made the PO to Mondince on November 7 and seems I still need to wait 1-2weeks more until arrival to Spain...
I ordered by WhatsApp
I took mine out for a quick test ride this morning before taping the bars and it rides well. It feels very stable though I'll need to experiment with tyre pressures to get some grip in the woods at the moment.
Quote from: d.m. on December 06, 2025, 01:13:14 AM
They said it's not a resin but a glue and asked me to try to remove it with a knife...
Or perhaps sand it down? Let us know how it goes
I couldn't reach it with my fingers but improvised and created this tool. Some sandpaper glued to the tip of a thin screwdriver. This allowed me to get to the problematic spot and remove enough glue that the wedge now fits. Problem solved.
Other than that, frame looks ok. The bottom bracket screws in easily, without any issues. The headset and fork assembles well, with no significant gaps.
I'm starting to assemble it, but to finish it I still need the wheels, which I only ordered 3 days ago.
Quote from: d.m. on December 06, 2025, 12:43:23 PM
I couldn't reach it with my fingers but improvised and created this tool. Some sandpaper glued to the tip of a thin screwdriver. This allowed me to get to the problematic spot and remove enough glue that the wedge now fits. Problem solved.
Love the ingenuity! Glad you're able to get past it and hopefully they'll flag for future QC protocol.
Quote from: Buffon_bj on December 03, 2025, 12:19:57 AM
Here it is built up, the LBS was super fast. No problems with the BB, paint, brake mounts etc. Clearance with 48mm Thunderos on 25IW rims (wam just under 50mm) is really great. I will ride it on tarmac this afternoon and tweak the fit a bit. Really loving how this looks, the back end and top tube is quite slender and I really like how that pairs with the bigger rubber. The Tideace Noah I had previously looked much more porky.
Degree stem is that? Looking to have something sit flat and that looks flat
Mondince has a new fork coming out, available mid-January 2026
- 420mm A-C
- 50/55mm flip chip
- Max 700*57mm/29*2.25'' tire
(https://i.ibb.co/N61LnBX8/FK326-schematic.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/gZ0r7kH1/FM326-FK326-geometry.jpg)
Now we just need a frame with the same clearance in the back.
Quote from: impmonkey on December 06, 2025, 02:35:24 PM
Degree stem is that? Looking to have something sit flat and that looks flat
It's the FSA Afterburner -12° stem, very light and quite cheap.
I don't know why Mondince recommends a separate stem and handlebar. Today I shortened the steerer tube and ran the brake lines through the frame and handlebar. I didn't encounter any problems.
Quote from: d.m. on November 24, 2025, 11:24:24 AM
Did you consider seat tube angle?
Yes, FM326 looks long when you are looking at the reach value. But it has 75 degrees seat tube angle. 1,4 deg more than Addict RC. Sounds like not much? I wouldn't say so.
For my 174cm and ~715mm BB to saddle top distance a difference of 1,4 degrees will move a saddle ~17 mm forward which in my opinion isn't insignificant.
Which size did you go with? I'm 176 with 81 inseam - so I pretty close to order a 316 in medium with Jack in raw carbon look
Quote from: rebbesen on December 07, 2025, 12:41:32 PM
Which size did you go with? I'm 176 with 81 inseam - so I pretty close to order a 316 in medium with Jack in raw carbon look
I ordered an S and went with a 120mm stem. I think the M might be too tall.
I wanted a sportier riding position, but the M paired with a shorter stem should also work if you want a more upright position.
Quote from: rebbesen on December 07, 2025, 12:41:32 PM
Which size did you go with? I'm 176 with 81 inseam - so I pretty close to order a 316 in medium with Jack in raw carbon look
120mm stem paired with 70.5 SA is a bit of a compromise and will need some time getting used to.
Quote from: d.m. on December 08, 2025, 01:00:58 AM
I ordered an S and went with a 120mm stem. I think the M might be too tall.
I wanted a sportier riding position, but the M paired with a shorter stem should also work if you want a more upright position.
that should be an interesting ride, as the geometry is almost a canyon grail +-5mm and they use a 70mm stem on a S frame.
Quote from: kubackje on December 08, 2025, 06:23:14 AM
120mm stem paired with 70.5 SA is a bit of a compromise and will need some time getting used to.
I made a typo in my previous post. I went with 110mm stem, not 120mm.
Also FM316 with 395MM A-C fork has 71 deg headtuve angle according to Mondince geo chart.
Quote from: SirBikealot on December 08, 2025, 09:37:02 AM
that should be an interesting ride, as the geometry is almost a canyon grail +-5mm and they use a 70mm stem on a S frame.
And I thought I was being conservative when choosing the size ;D My road bike is 2cm lower and longer.
It should be ok, and if not, I can always adjust the position (except for the cut steerer tube)
**WORD OF CAUTION RE: INTERNAL STORAGE COVER**
My internal storage cover (+cage and bottle) came off during a gravel race this past weekend. The locking lever kept moving to the open position regardless of how tight I pressed it in the locked position.
Root cause (with input from Mondince):
Rattle-induced opening of the latch caused by the lever coming in contact w/ the bottom of the bottle cage:
(https://i.ibb.co/RGBgy1WQ/12-10-2025-1-21-14-PM.jpg)
Solution:
1) Move the cage up
(https://i.ibb.co/7NKVfL8x/12-10-2025-1-21-07-PM.jpg)
2) Add an o-ring at external base of lever to add friction (it's a tad loose by default IMO)
(https://i.ibb.co/5h9q2WV3/12-10-2025-1-20-57-PM.jpg)
3) Add threadlock to lever assembly bolt
Mondince said they shortened the length of the lever. Hope this helps someone!
Quote from: CJ on December 10, 2025, 01:50:30 PM
**WORD OF CAUTION RE: INTERNAL STORAGE COVER**
My internal storage cover (+cage and bottle) came off during a gravel race this past weekend. The locking lever kept moving to the open position regardless of how tight I pressed it in the locked position.
Root cause (with input from Mondince):
Rattle-induced opening of the latch caused by the lever coming in contact w/ the bottom of the bottle cage:
(https://i.ibb.co/RGBgy1WQ/12-10-2025-1-21-14-PM.jpg)
Solution:
1) Move the cage up
(https://i.ibb.co/7NKVfL8x/12-10-2025-1-21-07-PM.jpg)
2) Add an o-ring at external base of lever to add friction (it's a tad loose by default IMO)
(https://i.ibb.co/5h9q2WV3/12-10-2025-1-20-57-PM.jpg)
3) Add threadlock to lever assembly bolt
Mondince said they shortened the length of the lever. Hope this helps someone!
Are you still happy with your 316? I'm in dialog with Jack, but with I'm getting a bit second thoughts.
Quote from: rebbesen on December 10, 2025, 02:16:51 PM
Are you still happy with your 316? I'm in dialog with Jack, but with I'm getting a bit second thoughts.
I'm totally in love with this frame
✅ Has the progressive geo I'm looking for
✅ Aesthetically pleasing (see Reddit comments)
✅ Rides like a compliant road bike
✅ Abundant tire clearance (although I'd like to test in peanut butter mud)
✅ Excellent fit and finish, especially the paint
✅ Distinctive look, I get compliments/questions from fellow riders
✅ Yes open mold...but they did it right, offer flip chip, and QC has been good IMO (yes things happen)
✅ No logos or branding (this *was* important to me at the time of purchase but now I trust this company enough to sport their logo)
✅ Cost-effective... I won't fret if something catastrophic happens, there's no need to spend thousands on a frame these days, IMO
✅ Mondince has been nothing short of superb in their communication/support
And moving over from non-UDH, it was a no brainer. I look forward to each ride and really looking forward to the 2026 racing season. But everyone has their own "Why..."
My issue w/ the storage cover is a minor hiccup in comparison
Ordered my 326 at the beginning of this week, what are good handlebar and carbon wheel brands?
I'm 183cm ordered a size M any recommendations on stem length or is a handlebar with stem unit a better option?
Looking to go for 45mm tires and SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 trying to get everything ready by the start of March.
Regards Cedric
Looks like TanTan is producing this frame.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1203
Hey folks,
I am new here and just wanted to thank you all for sharing your information and pictures, that was for me the trigger to order a medium FM326 with Jack yesterday (181cm/88cm).
It felt somewhat strange to order a bike by Whatsapp but Jack has been super helpful and hence the wait begins.
My initial plan is to build the FM326 just like the Mondraker Arid that "inspired" this frame design.
However, I will be using non integrated components to figure out what stem length works as I will be sporting a 420mm bar instead of the 440 that the original Arid in M/L size has.
Now seems the time to order bike stuff:
Is there any small parts or similar that you expected in the box but where missing?
Any of the standard parts worth replacing (how is the axle or seat post quality)?
Are there any special tools for build needed (from my current bike, I have already all the T47 tools and everything for SRAM AXS builds)?
Quote from: Cedric_VB on December 12, 2025, 07:56:22 AM
Ordered my 326 at the beginning of this week, what are good handlebar and carbon wheel brands?
I'm 183cm ordered a size M any recommendations on stem length or is a handlebar with stem unit a better option?
Looking to go for 45mm tires and SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 trying to get everything ready by the start of March.
Regards Cedric
Here's a sneak peak that was sent to me 🤩
Quote from: Svurre on December 18, 2025, 03:23:59 PM
Here's a sneak peak that was sent to me 🤩
I did receive mine too. Can't wait too see how it really looks outside :) It took them a few days more to paint than promised though
Looks fantastic!
How much time since the order has passed before you got this info?
2 weeks or more?
EDIT: The red one as well. Is there some texture in the coloring?
Quote from: Svurre on December 18, 2025, 03:23:59 PM
Here's a sneak peak that was sent to me 🤩
Quote from: v0llhirsch on December 19, 2025, 12:49:04 PM
Looks fantastic!
How much time since the order has passed before you got this info?
2 weeks or more?
EDIT: The red one as well. Is there some texture in the coloring?
Yes, crystal effect. In my case, from payment to video it took 15 days.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on December 19, 2025, 12:49:04 PM
Looks fantastic!
How much time since the order has passed before you got this info?
2 weeks or more?
EDIT: The red one as well. Is there some texture in the coloring?
Yes, everything is great except for the lid that I requested to be painted matte black.
But that was no issue, they will fix it for me.
Payment to video was 14 days for me. :)
Just got the video of my FM326 frameset in size large. Pretty happy with it ☺️
Just placed an order for an FM326 (size M).
Pantone 7484 C with added pearl.
Super excited! Building up with XM Carbonspeeds new 32.5mm wide gravel rims w/ their silver hubs and titanium spokes and Sram Force XPLR E1.
(https://www.pantone.com/media/color-finder/img/chips/pantone-color-chip-7484-c.webp)
Hi you all,
can anybody be so nice and tell me the diameter of the head tube/headtube cap and provide a picture of the headset cap. I try to find a solution to integrate the cables as much as possible. Or has anybody a recommendation for a matching semi or fully integrated stem?
Thanks a lot in advance and enjoy the holidays!
Quote from: moechtegernruler on December 22, 2025, 07:20:15 AM
Hi you all,
can anybody be so nice and tell me the diameter of the head tube/headtube cap and provide a picture of the headset cap. I try to find a solution to integrate the cables as much as possible. Or has anybody a recommendation for a matching semi or fully integrated stem?
Thanks a lot in advance and enjoy the holidays!
I am also interested in this along with the depth of the cup as that will also be needed for a good fit.
Finding a fully integrated stem that isn't a boat anchor and 200 dollars is proving a challenge.
The frame uses standard 52mm outer diameter headset bearings, so you can choose from a variety of options like Lexon, Toseek, and many more.
As an example, the Toseek integrated handlebar:
Thank you very much!
I had a hard time deciding between the FM316 and the 326 so I just ordered both forks with the frame. It was 75USD extra. Also ordered the 316 fork without bolt mounts.
Swapping forks will be an adventure with the routing but oh well.
Tried to get an Satin finish but they seemed confused on how to handle that so went with 7589 C Pantone with pearl and a gloss finish.
(https://www.pantone.com/media/color-finder/img/chips/pantone-color-chip-7589-c.webp)
I already love the fact that Chinese companies are so much more forthcoming when it comes to color customization.
It's great to see the variations of the same bike with different color schemes that reflect the riders preferences.
I admit, it also created some doubts in hindsight if I picked the best color but time will tell
Those of you with SRAM builds, can you share which length you needed for the Bolts, e.g. Rear Flat Mount?
It would be great, since this could save me a potentiall delay and a few bucks for shipping of small parts later on.
I need to order a few parts now and could put them in the basket
Update for future reference:
Based on emilioea reply it's a 32mm bolt with the FD20
SRAM reference: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/aftermarket/disc-brake-caliper-mounting-specifications-for-road-and-mtb.pdf
Page 9
Quote from: v0llhirsch on December 26, 2025, 03:08:20 PM
Those of you with SRAM builds, can you share which length you needed for the Bolts, e.g. Rear Flat Mount?
It would be great, since this could save me a potentiall delay and a few bucks for shipping of small parts later on.
I need to order a few parts now and could put them in the basket
The frame is 25 mm, so I had to choose 38 mm bolts in Shimano. I guess Sram will have a similar table to calculate the bolts for 25 mm frames.
Finally managed to swap fork and test the bike also with the 420mm one
I did 600km with the 395mm fork and around 250km with the 420mm
FM316 with 395mm fork
-Ride feel is more similar to a road bike.
-Stable also downhill on gravel as you feel more "in" the bike rather than on top of it.
-Using the flip chip with 50mm rake steering feel was alright with cheaper aluminium wheels but using carbon Tagoola XPLR it's started to be a bit twitchy on uneven gravel, I'd probably switch to 45mm rake.
I'm using a negative 6 deg 80mm stem, which can give its contribution to the steering responsiveness.
-Main drawback of this configuration for me was ground clearance, no problem on flat gravel roads but on very easy trails with rocks and roots pedal strikes are quite frequent even if I ride carefully. I had to keep in mind ground clearance also pedaling in roundabouts on tarmac where I never had problems with the road bike.
170mm 2x grx cranks.
FM326 with 420mm fork
- Front end of the bike is definitely higher, I completely slammed the stem and I'll change it to a -17deg to lower it even further.
- The steering feels much more solid and precise especially on fast but uneven gravel.
- Agility of the bike is not compromised though, the feeling of being "in" the bike vanished but the bike feels more playful overall; agility is now more a side-to-side freedom of movement rather than linked to steering responsiveness.
- I tried my idiotic roundabout test and the limit of pedal strike is definitely higher now, it makes little sense but it gives me peace of mind when pedaling mid-corner.
- Drawback of this combo is mainly related to my positioning on the bike, I really liked the 75deg seat tube angle and now I have to run my saddle all the way forward on the rail to try and replicate the same position.
All things considered I think I like the 420mm fork more because it's more versatile for the type of terrain around here and overall the bike feels more playful.
The FM316 stack and reach figures with a higher BB would be ideal.
(https://i.ibb.co/0pgJz2gN/20251221-144401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wZ962g9H)
What length cranks are you running? I am going from 170 on current rig to 160 on this due to the BB height
Quote from: impmonkey on December 27, 2025, 04:09:57 PM
What length cranks are you running? I am going from 170 on current rig to 160 on this due to the BB height
170mm on a 2x grx crankset, pretty standard setup.
so finally received my frameset this week
ordered 7 Nov, shipped 2 Dec, arrived 22 Dec
Size L in pearl white
Frame 1343g , fork 473
Now in the process of building and figuring out most convenient headset arrangement
I will share more details and comments
Hi all,
Im about to pull the trigger on a frame and was thinking about buying a stem and handlebar directly from Mondince.
Does anyone know about the quality of the complementary parts?
what is the max. tire size you are fitting on the rear?
I have Schwalbe G One R in 50mm, which on my 30mm rims measure around 51-52mm
and find a very very tight clearance on the chainstays, around 4mm
Where did you find these parts from them?
On the homepage I can see frames but nothing else (but perhaps that's just me)
Quote from: Alfiie on December 28, 2025, 07:41:02 AM
Hi all,
Im about to pull the trigger on a frame and was thinking about buying a stem and handlebar directly from Mondince.
Does anyone know about the quality of the complementary parts?
Quote from: RDC on December 28, 2025, 11:31:16 AM
what is the max. tire size you are fitting on the rear?
I have Schwalbe G One R in 50mm, which on my 30mm rims measure around 51-52mm
and find a very very tight clearance on the chainstays, around 4mm
On page 5, CJ reports about 5mm clearance on each side with 50mm width as measured tires. So what you're reporting sounds about right.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg94995.html#msg94995
Quote from: lkip on December 27, 2025, 11:09:17 AM
Finally managed to swap fork and test the bike also with the 420mm one
I did 600km with the 395mm fork and around 250km with the 420mm
FM316 with 395mm fork
-Ride feel is more similar to a road bike.
-Stable also downhill on gravel as you feel more "in" the bike rather than on top of it.
-Using the flip chip with 50mm rake steering feel was alright with cheaper aluminium wheels but using carbon Tagoola XPLR it's started to be a bit twitchy on uneven gravel, I'd probably switch to 45mm rake.
I'm using a negative 6 deg 80mm stem, which can give its contribution to the steering responsiveness.
-Main drawback of this configuration for me was ground clearance, no problem on flat gravel roads but on very easy trails with rocks and roots pedal strikes are quite frequent even if I ride carefully. I had to keep in mind ground clearance also pedaling in roundabouts on tarmac where I never had problems with the road bike.
170mm 2x grx cranks.
FM326 with 420mm fork
- Front end of the bike is definitely higher, I completely slammed the stem and I'll change it to a -17deg to lower it even further.
- The steering feels much more solid and precise especially on fast but uneven gravel.
- Agility of the bike is not compromised though, the feeling of being "in" the bike vanished but the bike feels more playful overall; agility is now more a side-to-side freedom of movement rather than linked to steering responsiveness.
- I tried my idiotic roundabout test and the limit of pedal strike is definitely higher now, it makes little sense but it gives me peace of mind when pedaling mid-corner.
- Drawback of this combo is mainly related to my positioning on the bike, I really liked the 75deg seat tube angle and now I have to run my saddle all the way forward on the rail to try and replicate the same position.
All things considered I think I like the 420mm fork more because it's more versatile for the type of terrain around here and overall the bike feels more playful.
The FM316 stack and reach figures with a higher BB would be ideal.
(https://i.ibb.co/0pgJz2gN/20251221-144401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wZ962g9H)
Tyre size what you use? I hope that 2.1" thunderburt will fit, so i can use 395mm fork. Maybe burt front and 50mm g-one rear. Think that 50mm rake is better for burt.
I order both fork too.
Same gray color as C.J bike, but wiht glossy finnish.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on December 28, 2025, 12:08:25 PM
Where did you find these parts from them?
On the homepage I can see frames but nothing else (but perhaps that's just me)
I just asked the seller and he sent some drawings of stem and handlebar.
The price was only 80 USD extra wich sounded very cheap and made me a little scared about the quality.
Is the ground clearance really that low? I am using 172,5mm cranks and plan to use this frame not only with gravel tires but also with road tires (32mm nominal, approx. 34mm measured in reality) Has anyone measured the height from the ground to the center of bottom bracket? And of course, what is tire high that you using.
Thanks Václav
I guess if you trust the quality of a 550$ frame, you can trust the quality of a 80 $ handlebar.
The stuff on AliExpress is not that much more expensive.
Can you share what you have?
It would be great to know what specifications they have.
I am planning to start with a semi integrated solution and price wise that doesn't sound too bad.
Quote from: Alfiie on December 29, 2025, 01:19:46 AM
I just asked the seller and he sent some drawings of stem and handlebar.
The price was only 80 USD extra wich sounded very cheap and made me a little scared about the quality.
Quote from: Vaclav on December 29, 2025, 07:03:31 AM
Is the ground clearance really that low? I am using 172,5mm cranks and plan to use this frame not only with gravel tires but also with road tires (32mm nominal, approx. 34mm measured in reality) Has anyone measured the height from the ground to the center of bottom bracket? And of course, what is tire high that you using.
Thanks Václav
Hi! You can check 'Pedal Spindle to Ground Clearance' and 'Bottom Bracket Height' parameters here https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,&builds=,6952a53757482e001a4890bb,
Anyone having trouble trying to calculate stem length with the STA and the longer reach I would recommend putting all your existing fit numbers and the new ones in chat-gpt.
Surprisingly useful.
STA alone eats up 12mm of reach at my saddle height.
(https://i.imgur.com/idaosIU.png)
I am not familiar with this headset system either. It seems that the headset cap moves when you steer, rotating with the direction of steering. It also seems that any spacers above also rotate. Is this how a fully built bike works as well? And has it been an issue for anyone?
Also, forgive me if this was already discussed but I did not see any posts in a quick scan, but does anyone have issues with the cable bends for mechanical shifting, especially the sharp bend up to the front derailleur?
Quote from: CJ on November 07, 2025, 10:38:30 AM
Thought this might help others with their builds. Does anyone have experience w/ this type of headset cap?
The provided cap has 4 holes w/ 4 open caps pre-installed and 2 closed caps provided separately
(https://i.ibb.co/zW36hJXm/11-07-2025-10-00-38-AM.jpg)
- You'll only want 2 open caps if running electronic shifting (to prevent dirt/water from entering)
- You'll want to decide which holes are closed BEFORE installing headset/hoses/etc.
- In my case, the rear hose is routed through the left hole (to the right brake lever) while the front through the right
- The disparity in angle/tension caused the cap to settle in a skewed position
- I think this type of cap fares better with more spacers but my stem is pretty slammed
- Not an issue per se, more of an aesthetic thing
Perhaps the cap would align better using different holes, routing the front hose around the steerer tube, or both?
You may want to experiment before securing hoses.
(https://i.ibb.co/bkMPBX7/IMG-1794.jpg)
Thanks for the link. I put the numbers into the calculator and it looks OK. For a 172.5 mm crank and MF326 frame, spindle-to-ground is 95.5 mm with a 32 mm tire and 108.5 mm with a 45 mm tire.
My cyclocross bike has 113 mm (33 mm CX tire) and my road bike has 97 mm (25 mm tire).
Quote from: hunker on December 29, 2025, 10:03:16 AM
Hi! You can check 'Pedal Spindle to Ground Clearance' and 'Bottom Bracket Height' parameters here https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,6903c6ae07e4a3001a6c0175,&builds=,6952a53757482e001a4890bb,
This is what ChatGPT told me, I already had a longer chat about setup and frame sizes.
The Mondraker has the identical geo as the FM326. The Vaast is my current bike, setup by a bike fitter and my known good configuration
---
## 🚴♂️ Direct Position Comparison: *Vaast A/1 L* vs. *Mondraker Arid Carbon M/L*
### 📌 Reference setups
**Vaast A/1 – size L**
* Setup: **90 mm stem, −6°** + **2.5 mm spacer**, 420 mm handlebar
* Effective reach: **≈ 485 mm** (horizontal distance to handlebar clamp)
* Effective stack: **≈ 591 mm** (handlebar height above BB)
* Rider reach: **≈ 239 mm** (horizontal distance saddle → handlebar)
*(Calculated from your real setup using standard bike-fit formulas)*
**Mondraker Arid Carbon – size M/L**
* Frame geometry: **Reach 411 mm / Stack 591 mm**
* Compared to the Vaast, the Arid has a **similar stack but a longer frame reach**, combined with a steeper seat tube angle and a more modern gravel geometry.
---
## 📊 1:1 Comparison in a Single Line (rounded)
| Bike | Eff. Reach | Eff. Stack | Rider Reach | Comment |
| --------------------------------------------------- | ---------------- | ---------------- | ---------------- | -------------------------------------------- |
| **Vaast A/1 L (90 mm, −6°, 2.5 mm spacer)** | **≈ 485 mm** | **≈ 591 mm** | **≈ 239 mm** | Your current reference position |
| **Mondraker Arid M/L (70 mm, −6°, 0–10 mm spacer)** | **≈ 482–492 mm** | **≈ 584–605 mm** | **≈ 248–268 mm** | Slightly longer, depending on stem & spacers |
---
## 🧠 What this means in practice
### 📍 Horizontal (how long the bike feels)
* **Vaast ≈ 239 mm rider reach** → compact, comfortable
* **Arid M/L with 60–70 mm stem ≈ 248–258 mm rider reach**
→ noticeably more stretched, but still well within a sporty gravel range
### 📍 Vertical (handlebar height)
* Arid M/L stack (**≈ 591 mm**) is **very close to the Vaast**
* With fewer spacers and a modern front-end layout, the Arid usually **feels lower and more active** at the bars
→ this can reduce neck and shoulder strain if you prefer a sportier posture
---
## 📌 Key differences to keep in mind
### Seat tube angle effect
* **Arid: 74° effective STA**
* **Vaast: ~72.5° STA**
The steeper seat tube on the Arid moves you **forward over the bottom bracket**, which slightly reduces the *perceived* reach despite the longer frame reach.
### Stack / reach balance
* Same stack, longer frame reach on the Arid
* Reach difference must be managed via **shorter stem and low spacer stack**
### Stem & spacer influence
* **60 mm stem** → compact, controlled
* **70 mm stem** → closer to your current Vaast feel
* **10 mm spacers** → raise the bars without changing reach
---
## 🧭 Practical setup recommendation (short)
**Mondraker Arid M/L if you want a Vaast-like feel:**
* **Stem:** 60–70 mm @ −6°
* **Spacers:** 0–10 mm
* **Rider reach:** ~248–258 mm
* **Bar height:** similar to or slightly lower than Vaast
**Frame choice:**
✔️ **M/L is correct for your height (~181 cm)**
✖️ M would be too compact, L too long
---
## Confidence & transparency
* **Confidence level:** ~85–90%
* Based on:
* Manufacturer geometry data
* Trigonometric reach/stack calculations
* Your real-world feedback (neck discomfort with higher bar positions)
If you want, I can also provide a **visual reach/stack chart** comparing Vaast vs. Arid M/L for different stem/spacer combinations — very useful for dealer discussions and test rides.
Quote from: impmonkey on December 29, 2025, 12:49:36 PM
Anyone having trouble trying to calculate stem length with the STA and the longer reach I would recommend putting all your existing fit numbers and the new ones in chat-gpt.
Surprisingly useful.
STA alone eats up 12mm of reach at my saddle height.
(https://i.imgur.com/idaosIU.png)
My wife has a cube NuRoad where the semi integrated solution works just like this. When you move the handlebar, the whole stem with spacers and cap move along. It was also new to me, leaving me a bit puzzled at first.
The curves on the cube are a lot tighter and they work without issues on a 1x12 GRX
Quote from: mudfisher on December 29, 2025, 01:00:14 PM
I am not familiar with this headset system either. It seems that the headset cap moves when you steer, rotating with the direction of steering. It also seems that any spacers above also rotate. Is this how a fully built bike works as well? And has it been an issue for anyone?
Also, forgive me if this was already discussed but I did not see any posts in a quick scan, but does anyone have issues with the cable bends for mechanical shifting, especially the sharp bend up to the front derailleur?
Quote from: mudfisher on December 29, 2025, 01:00:14 PM
I am not familiar with this headset system either. It seems that the headset cap moves when you steer, rotating with the direction of steering. It also seems that any spacers above also rotate. Is this how a fully built bike works as well? And has it been an issue for anyone?
Also, forgive me if this was already discussed but I did not see any posts in a quick scan, but does anyone have issues with the cable bends for mechanical shifting, especially the sharp bend up to the front derailleur?
It does all rotate together when fully built, but that's how all aheadset (threadless headset) systems work . I'm running 2x12 mechanical GRX and it works fine. 12spd mechanical appears to be less sensitive to tight bends than my old Ultegra 6800 was. I was more worried about the bends out of the headset cap whilst running minimal spacers.
My Spcycle version of this frame just arrived. Size XL light purple metallic. I paid 578 USD for it including the paint job and tax-free shipping to Poland.
Overall it looks pretty good: no visible flaws in the carbon, everything fits really nice, paint job is nice. It comes with hanger, axles, headset and a headset cover with cable entries for a normal non-integrated stem, steatpost clamp but without a seatpost.
However there's one details that I'm sure going to annoy the hell out of me.
The frame should not have seatstay mounts for the rack just like the latest iteration of the Mondince frame and it "kind of" doesn't. It actually has blanked out mounts that were painted over. It probably not going to cause problems but I just hate how it looks.
I looked at the pictures of the frame on the spcycle website and it looks like it also has those blank mounts but hard to tell a 100%.
Quote from: pavlo.k on December 30, 2025, 12:52:00 PM
My Spcycle version of this frame just arrived. Size XL light purple metallic. I paid 578 USD for it including the paint job and tax-free shipping to Poland.
Overall it looks pretty good: no visible flaws in the carbon, everything fits really nice, paint job is nice. It comes with hanger, axles, headset and a headset cover with cable entries for a normal non-integrated stem, steatpost clamp but without a seatpost.
However there's one details that I'm sure going to annoy the hell out of me.
The frame should not have seatstay mounts for the rack just like the latest iteration of the Mondince frame and it "kind of" doesn't. It actually has blanked out mounts that were painted over. It probably not going to cause problems but I just hate how it looks.
I looked at the pictures of the frame on the spcycle website and it looks like it also has those blank mounts but hard to tell a 100%.
At least the color is beautiful
Got the video! Frame ready to ship out.
Joining the club
Interesting that this frame also appears to have the blanked off rack mount on the seat stay (edit: I watched the video and it might just be a reflection). What's the size and supplier?
Quote from: gribs on January 01, 2026, 05:56:32 AM
Interesting that this frame also appears to have the blanked off rack mount on the seat stay (edit: I watched the video and it might just be a reflection). What's the size and supplier?
I think that is a reflection, I zoomed into the video and it does not look like a plug.
That is a Mondince FM326 in size Medium
My Tagoola XPLR wheels finally arrived yesterday, and I finished assembling the bike today. As pictured (with bottle cages, pedals, and Garmin mount), it weighs 8.4 kg.
I haven't ridden it yet, but I can't wait to try it out.
Always interested in what bars people went with. What are there?
Bike looks mint.
Thanks.
This is a Toseek handlebar.
Initially, I had some doubts due to its low price but when it arrived I inspected it and couldn't find anything alarming. It is well made, doesn't flex, looks solid.
Quote from: Japeke on December 28, 2025, 11:39:39 PM
Tyre size what you use? I hope that 2.1" thunderburt will fit, so i can use 395mm fork. Maybe burt front and 50mm g-one rear. Think that 50mm rake is better for burt.
I order both fork too.
Same gray color as C.J bike, but wiht glossy finnish.
I'm running 45mm maxxis reaver on tagoola Xplr wheels (32mm internal)
Tyres measure around 48mm width when installed
Quote from: d.m. on January 01, 2026, 09:37:14 AM
My Tagoola XPLR wheels finally arrived yesterday, and I finished assembling the bike today. As pictured (with bottle cages, pedals, and Garmin mount), it weighs 8.4 kg.
I haven't ridden it yet, but I can't wait to try it out.
What framesize is this? Great Build!
Thanks, size is S.
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Quote from: pavlo.k on January 04, 2026, 07:22:53 AM
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Nice build!
I'm planning to use the Conti Terra Hardpack too! I'm curious how you think they perform on pavement/gravel. Also, what's the width as measured on those rims? They're 32mm internal, right? Glad to see they fit. How much spare clearance is there?
Quote from: pavlo.k on January 04, 2026, 07:22:53 AM
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Hi Pavlo.k, nice looking bike. May I ask of your height, inseam, seat height, stem length and how does your setup feel? Also if you have road bike how differently (if at all) have you set up your touchpoints?
I am 191/93 inseam/83-84 seat height and a bit torn between L/XL sizes. I would like to hear more from others of similar size how their setup looks and the thinking behind it. Thank you!
Got my SPCycle G026 frameset unpacked. Got it with raw carbon clear coat. Looks amazing, but a couple notes:
- There is some orange peel throughout the frame
- The chainstays have black base paint underneath the clear coat.
- Box arrived undamaged, but the packing foam had some small gaps on the frame and unfortunately there is some paint (?) damage in the rear derailleur/seatstay/chainstay area. Presumably from the udh or bearing accessories shaking around during shipping. Will reach out to @spcycle , and update with what they say. Edit: We agreed for spcycle to send me some spare bearings, derailleur hanger, and thruaxles as compensation.
Total weight of the frameset size M including bearings, thru axels, udh, and uncut fork is 1.9kg.
Still need to source a set of wheels and handlebar. Anyone try fitting 29 MTB tires with this frame? like 29x2.2?
Quote from: Joey on January 04, 2026, 10:57:18 AM
Still need to source a set of wheels and handlebar. Anyone try fitting 29 MTB tires with this frame? like 29x2.2?
If you're interested, I can share something about the 9velo 2026 gravel wheels with steel spokes once they arrive (in about a week or so).
They are pretty in the middle with 28mm inner width compared to the 25mm standard and the 32mm extra wide wheels: https://www.9velo.com/products/9velo-2026-gravel-disc-berd-spoke-gb-series-24h-24h-28mm-inner-width
Handlebar wise, if you're fine with alloy - the pro plt ergo is cheap, nice enough and also available in narrow versions (if needed).
Quote from: Grailer on January 04, 2026, 10:30:20 AM
Nice build!
I'm planning to use the Conti Terra Hardpack too! I'm curious how you think they perform on pavement/gravel. Also, what's the width as measured on those rims? They're 32mm internal, right? Glad to see they fit. How much spare clearance is there?
To be honest I hate these tires, I took them off last season after about 200km because they felt super sluggish. I just thrown them in because I didn't have any other tires lying around and wanted to finish the build but I didn't even put any sealant in and plan to replace them with tufo thundero 48. Hardpacks somehow test really well in rolling resistance and overall people seem to like them. For context I switched from the conti terra speed and those tires were rapid so maybe I'm just spoiled.
They measure 52mm on my rims and there's still room to go wider. id's say about 4mm on either side
Quote from: OldFish on January 04, 2026, 10:56:52 AM
Hi Pavlo.k, nice looking bike. May I ask of your height, inseam, seat height, stem length and how does your setup feel? Also if you have road bike how differently (if at all) have you set up your touchpoints?
I am 191/93 inseam/83-84 seat height and a bit torn between L/XL sizes. I would like to hear more from others of similar size how their setup looks and the thinking behind it. Thank you!
I'm 193cm, 92-93 inseam length, 85-86cm saddle height. I use 120x420 handlebar and 0 offset seatpost. I didn't put too much thought into my fit. I just had a cockpit in the parts bin and just used it. The fit is definitely different than on my road bike and it would be impossible to achieve the same position even if I wanted to, this frame is much longer, slacker, much taller fork.
I can't comment on how this current setup feels since I didn't have an opportunity to give it a proper ride but I guess it will be all right. I'm not very picky about my position, I just eyeball it on all of my bikes and never had any problems.
When It comes to size choice, just make sure you can achieve a desired saddle height on L. Seat tube is quite short and I had to use 400mm seapost on XL
Quote from: pavlo.k on January 04, 2026, 03:38:16 PM
To be honest I hate these tires, I took them off last season after about 200km because they felt super sluggish. I just thrown them in because I didn't have any other tires lying around and wanted to finish the build but I didn't even put any sealant in and plan to replace them with tufo thundero 48. Hardpacks somehow test really well in rolling resistance and overall people seem to like them. For context I switched from the conti terra speed and those tires were rapid so maybe I'm just spoiled.
They measure 52mm on my rims and there's still room to go wider. id's say about 4mm on either side
Thanks! I was basically looking for the fastest rolling 50mm tire since I don't do a lot of "technical" gravel riding. Schwalbe doesn't make the 50mm G-One R Pro in black, and these were cheap/available which is how I ended up with them. Thankfully they're not too expensive if they don't end up working out.
Quote from: Grailer on January 04, 2026, 06:08:43 PM
Thanks! I was basically looking for the fastest rolling 50mm tire since I don't do a lot of "technical" gravel riding. Schwalbe doesn't make the 50mm G-One R Pro in black, and these were cheap/available which is how I ended up with them. Thankfully they're not too expensive if they don't end up working out.
I was able to get the 50 mm G-One R Pro in black, but they were very difficult to find. I bought them here, but they're out of stock now: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/es/schwalbe-cubierta-de-gravel-g-one-r-pro-supra-v-guard-tubeless-700c-x-50/142773992/p?tqw=700C%20x%2050
I've just finished building the bike, but haven't been able to test it yet (it's been raining non-stop for the last week).
I have some comments about the chainstay design, which I feel awkward and with room for improvement
don't you have issues with hitting your heels? see image, I have added some protection pads
With my crankset having 48mm chainline and 152mm Q-Factor:
- the 40t chainring has lots of room to chainstay
- the 50mm tire is very tight to chainstay <4mm
- the crank is very close at pedals end to chainstays
with a regular road crankset (not wide) the problem should be worse
Quote from: RDC on January 05, 2026, 10:13:02 AM
I have some comments about the chainstay design, which I feel awkward and with room for improvement
don't you have issues with hitting your heels? see image, I have added some protection pads
With my crankset having 48mm chainline and 152mm Q-Factor:
- the 40t chainring has lots of room to chainstay
- the 50mm tire is very tight to chainstay <4mm
- the crank is very close at pedals end to chainstays
with a regular road crankset (not wide) the problem should be worse
Nothing out of the ordinary on mine. Size XL, 170mm non wide road crank and size 47 shoe.
I rub the chainstays a bit on all of my bikes so I always add some tape there.
Tire clearance is on part with what is advertised in my opinion. My tires measure 52 and there's still some room to go a little wider. I'd say 2.1 29 tire should fit
Thinking about one of these. Do people have head on shots of the frame? How is this in terms of aero? I do like the geo
Quote from: Alexbikes on January 05, 2026, 08:25:22 PM
Thinking about one of these. Do people have head on shots of the frame? How is this in terms of aero? I do like the geo
Sorry, no head-on shots at the moment but here's an anecdotal account re: it's aero qualities (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg96203.html#msg96203)... taken with a pinch of salt for it's lack of scientific rigor.
bike ready to go!
Quote from: RDC on January 06, 2026, 09:48:52 AM
bike ready to go!
nice looking bike with fresh mud decorations :)
what crankset and chainring are you using?
Quote from: shokas on January 06, 2026, 01:20:48 PM
nice looking bike with fresh mud decorations :)
what crankset and chainring are you using?
Z Race Unchained 170mm and 40t
I have just ordered one of these frames, gonna try to find the time to build it up before springtime comes.
Been looking at that Zrace Unchained crankset, how do you like it? Does anyone know how it compares to the similar style LEESE cranksets?
Looking at fitting mine with a standard GRX setup, but not settled just yet.
Ordered mine today. Hope it is decently fast. I am planning on riding it a little on tarmac as well as racing gravel
Got pictures today, unfortunately there was a mix up and the frame was purple.
They will be painting me another frame and set of forks. That said if you want a purple sparkly size small hit up mondince.
First real ride yesterday on a 3h winter ride
I found to be very fast and silent, like riding on a magic carpet. I was very happy :) However feeling is not reactive, and frame has lateral flex specially on the front end. But so far I did not notice this negatively when cornering, could be positive? (like motogp bikes)
So no good for sprints but very good for maintaining high speeds with low effort.
Big part of this I assume is because of the wheels, I have the new Schwalbe G one pros in 50mm mounted on 30mm inner width rims and 45mm profile
Definitively not 50mm clearance on the rear, and you can suffer with mud. The wheel will roll, but the mud will build on the chainstay and will come to the chainring and transmission.
Finally after washing the bike I found water on the storage box, I think I will make a drill and possibly removing one of the walls to make box bigger
Edit: I'm 183cm tall and seat height is 79cm, and frame size L with 80mm stem is perfect
Quote from: RDC on January 12, 2026, 01:07:36 PM
First real ride yesterday on a 3h winter ride
I found to be very fast and silent, like riding on a magic carpet. I was very happy :) However feeling is not reactive, and frame has lateral flex specially on the front end. But so far I did not notice this negatively when cornering, could be positive? (like motogp bikes)
So no good for sprints but very good for maintaining high speeds with low effort.
Big part of this I assume is because of the wheels, I have the new Schwalbe G one pros in 50mm mounted on 30mm inner width rims and 45mm profile
Definitively not 50mm clearance on the rear, and you can suffer with mud. The wheel will roll, but the mud will build on the chainstay and will come to the chainring and transmission.
Finally after washing the bike I found water on the storage box, I think I will make a drill and possibly removing one of the walls to make box bigger
Edit: I'm 183cm tall and seat height is 79cm, and frame size L with 80mm stem is perfect
Appreciate the feedback! Do you have a caliper to measure actual tire width? Mine measure 50mm (47mm spec) and appear to have plenty of clearance. That said... I haven't run it in mud yet.
Not sure about your area but here gravel races *RARELY* come down to a sprint...and if they did, everyone's legs are blown and it's basically total power, fatigue resistance, and timing that determines outcome, not frame stiffness. A softer ride means less fatigue, which helps you stay fresh especially in the finale. I didn't realize how jarringly stiff my previous frame was until until I rode the FM316.
Quote from: RDC on January 12, 2026, 01:07:36 PM
First real ride yesterday on a 3h winter ride
I found to be very fast and silent, like riding on a magic carpet. I was very happy :) However feeling is not reactive, and frame has lateral flex specially on the front end.
420mm fork? I think 395 vs 420 makes a big difference.
I'm 178cm tall and seat height is 77cm. I take M size and ordered 38/120 Spcycle HB-068 handlebar.
10cm seat-handlebar drop is what i aiming.
I'm also 178cm and running a medium but with a 80mm stem and 420mm bars. With the 420mm fork the steering is already slow so I'd not expect another 40mm of stem to help.
Just long and low for me.
I measured saddle-lever length from older bike. Can't take L-size. Headtube is too long.
Quote from: Japeke on January 13, 2026, 03:18:01 AM
Just long and low for me.
I measured saddle-lever length from older bike. Can't take L-size. Headtube is too long.
I'm not surprised. I wasn't aiming for a low position but I've got one 5mm spacer on the medium. The 420mm forks do make a noticeable difference compared to my old cross bike.
I really think that 395 and 420mm forks really change the way the bike handles.
I don't try 420mm fork, if there is not anything strange with 395. I have both.
Actually a bit strange if 395mm works well. That would mean you could also swap a shorter fork to mondraker arid too.
Quote from: Japeke on January 13, 2026, 07:12:39 AM
I really think that 395 and 420mm forks really change the way the bike handles.
I don't try 420mm fork, if there is not anything strange with 395. I have both.
Actually a bit strange if 395mm works well. That would mean you could also swap a shorter fork to mondraker arid too.
It's not that strange. The fork is 420mm because the bike is suspension-corrected. A small gravel suspension fork, when fully compressed, is right around that 395-400mm mark so the bike needs to be able to handle such a short fork.
Hmm... You are right. Fox gravel fork ac is 435mm and stroke 45mm.
So ac with rider is maybe that 420mm. Full compressed ac is 390mm.
But why there is allways just one long rigid fork?
Many bikes would have better geometry (for me) and a nicer look with a shorter fork.
For example, the Santa Cruz stigmata.
I think the fork will make more of a difference on where your gravel riding lies in the gap between road and mountain biking. I went for the longer one to give a slacker head angle and more clearance as my intended use is effectively old school mountain biking with road sections to get further from home.
I've finally finished the build (I still need to see how many spacers to use below the stem and do the final cut of the steerer):
SPcycle G026 green chameleon with the following components:
- Schwalbe G-One R and RX Pro (rear/front) 50 mm on 25 mm wheels. There is about 5-6 mm clearance on the chainstays (5 mm hex wrench clears it, 6 mm hex wrench rubs a bit).
- GRX 2x11 groupset, with RX812 rear derailleur + XT M8000 SGS cage mod to have a massive gear range: 48-31 and 11-46.
I've only ridden it in asphalt so far, but very pleased with it!
Hi !
I am planning on building a road adventure / light gravel bike with 2x11 transmission.
Do you guys know if it possible to fit a Zrace unchained 50-34 crankset with the frame ?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A)
The chainline is given to 47mm on the website of Mondice but I don't know how to tune it.
Cheers !
Quote from: Wil on January 16, 2026, 04:19:18 AM
Hi !
I am planning on building a road adventure / light gravel bike with 2x11 transmission.
Do you guys know if it possible to fit a Zrace unchained 50-34 crankset with the frame ?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005009521925137.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.484d7a73e577W1&algo_pvid=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b&algo_exp_id=73010cd0-7d5d-4f1f-b2d4-be928b623a4b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2286%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21161.86%21148.99%21%21%211277.48%211175.92%21%40211b615317685586314128865e7db3%2112000049357175406%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A86f4d21%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=vdmKicW8hZtO&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009521925137%7C_p_origin_prod%3A)
The chainline is given to 47mm on the website of Mondice but I don't know how to tune it.
Cheers !
The chainline of the 2x of the ZRace Unchained is 44.5 mm. GRX 2x is 47 mm. With a road FD you'll limit the tire clearance, I guess you could fit in a 45 max. And not sure if the chainring will hit the chainstay with 50-34 and being 2.5 mm inboard, I'll try to take a look at my GRX 48-31 and will try to guess if the road crankset will clear it.
PS: I've checked, and I think a road 50/34 wouldn't hit the chainstay (can't say 100% for sure, but based on the clearance I have, I think it'll fit). You'll only have the problem of reduced tire clearance with the road front derailleur.
My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.
Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)
The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.
Components I used:
Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm
Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120
Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)
Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622
Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset
--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)
Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.
Quote from: emilioea on January 16, 2026, 04:49:25 AM
The chainline of the 2x of the ZRace Unchained is 44.5 mm. GRX 2x is 47 mm. With a road FD you'll limit the tire clearance, I guess you could fit in a 45 max. And not sure if the chainring will hit the chainstay with 50-34 and being 2.5 mm inboard, I'll try to take a look at my GRX 48-31 and will try to guess if the road crankset will clear it.
PS: I've checked, and I think a road 50/34 wouldn't hit the chainstay (can't say 100% for sure, but based on the clearance I have, I think it'll fit). You'll only have the problem of reduced tire clearance with the road front derailleur.
Tire clearance doesn't work that way. With a GRX FD I could easily fit 65mil tires if my frame allowed it
I'm using a 12 spd 105 derailleur on mine as I had one spare and it doesn't effect tyre clearance at all.
I'm also interested in this frame.
What I'm curious about is, are you guys sizing down? Normally I'm a classic large with 185 cm and 87 inseam.
And, is this frame done by tantan or not? As tantan still has the rack mounts and only the short fork on site.
Same for the price, simillar to tantan/serpah/sp?
Thanks
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on January 16, 2026, 01:39:45 PM
I'm also interested in this frame.
What I'm curious about is, are you guys sizing down? Normally I'm a classic large with 185 cm and 87 inseam.
And, is this frame done by tantan or not? As tantan still has the rack mounts and only the short fork on site.
Same for the price, simillar to tantan/serpah/sp?
Thanks
I would use Bike Insights to compare the geo to other bikes you like the fit of.
Here's the one for the shorter fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/689cb67b11f2e8001a0c85b2-mondince-fm316
And the longer, 420mm fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/6917726c3de161001abe646a-mondince-fm326
Quote from: Grailer on January 16, 2026, 01:48:07 PM
I would use Bike Insights to compare the geo to other bikes you like the fit of.
Here's the one for the shorter fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/689cb67b11f2e8001a0c85b2-mondince-fm316
And the longer, 420mm fork: https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/6917726c3de161001abe646a-mondince-fm326
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on January 16, 2026, 02:03:51 PM
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
Ask ChatGPT to calculate the effective reach considering the seat tube angle. This one is very steep and brings you quite forward.
Based on my experience posted above, I would also recommend to consider your seat hight and required seat post length. The seat tube seems rather short and if you size down the frame too much, you might not reach the required height
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on January 16, 2026, 02:03:51 PM
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
I went with the medium 420mm fork version, and it's 20cm longer and 20cm taller than my road bike (56.5cm). I opted for an 80mm stem, vs the 120mm on my road bike and bars with similar reach/drop.
My road bike is pretty long and low, so this seemed like a reasonable way to go. I got the frame yesterday and am working on building it up, and will share more of an update/opinion in the coming days.
Quote from: kbernstein on January 16, 2026, 12:22:50 PM
Tire clearance doesn't work that way. With a GRX FD I could easily fit 65mil tires if my frame allowed it
In my FM326 the GRX 810 FD is basically in line with the chainstay, so i can fit 50 mm with around 5-6 mm of clearance (6 mm is the ISO standard). If I used a road FD, I'd have 2.5 mm less clearance, so I'd have to use a 45 mm tire (or risk it with a very tight clearance, but I wouldn't want to run it that tight).
PS: when I bought the frame, the guy from Spcycle told me that the official clearance for 2x for this bike is 45 mm.
Quote from: gribs on January 16, 2026, 01:34:05 PM
I'm using a 12 spd 105 derailleur on mine as I had one spare and it doesn't effect tyre clearance at all.
If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.
Quote from: emilioea on January 16, 2026, 03:29:13 PM
If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.
There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.
Quote from: gribs on January 16, 2026, 04:30:00 PM
There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.
Mine seems to be almost at the inside of the chainstays level (GRX 810), at least visually. I'll try to measure the distance from the tire to the FD.
PS: I've measured it and I have 7 mm clearance from the tire (Schwalbe G-One R Pro 50 mm on 25 mm internal width rims, which measure 50 mm) to the GRX RX810 front derailleur. A road front derailleur with road cranks will then have 4.5 mm of clearance, which is below the 6 mm ISO standard. Therefore, officially you'd have to run 47 mm tires max to get the official ISO clearance. In practice, it'll probably be OK unless it is extremely muddy.
Hi folks, is there supposed to be a crown race on the fork? Or does the lower bearing interface directly with the carbon?
Edit: Did some more research and I see with IS bearings and an angled bearing seat on the fork, a crown race isn't necessary. :)
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on January 16, 2026, 02:03:51 PM
thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.
What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.
Quote from: Grailer on January 17, 2026, 10:53:51 AM
Hi folks, is there supposed to be a crown race on the fork? Or does the lower bearing interface directly with the carbon?
Edit: Did some more research and I see with IS bearings and an angled bearing seat on the fork, a crown race isn't necessary. :)
Yep, it's IS52.
I was pleasantly surprised when I could assemble everything without tools.
Also, maintenance, like switching out the bearings once they are done should be fairly easy
Quote from: uplined on January 17, 2026, 12:04:26 PM
What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.
This website is great:
https://www.bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Mondince_FM326_2025_S
Here you get the frame geometry and then you can add the details of your stem, spacers, handlebar, etc and will calculate for you the BB to handlebar and saddle to handlebar distances, and you can compare to your previous bikes.
Well, did the math.
As the axle to crown is way higher, I'm going with a large.
Let's see, droppped tantan a message, whether they have something in stock.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on January 16, 2026, 08:46:32 AM
My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.
Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)
The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.
Components I used:
Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm
Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120
Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)
Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622
Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset
--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)
Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.
haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube
I'm amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?
I guess the question is what you accept as clearance in regards to potential mud and water coming in. I think this is fine but can understand that people want to have their headset closer to the frame. After all, a you could use the stock bearing with a 3rd party headset.
I made some pictures with zoom, so it might look like a large gap when in reality it is nearly not noticeable.
Quote from: RDC on January 19, 2026, 03:40:05 PM
haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube
I'm amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?
I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html
which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).
With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on January 20, 2026, 01:33:03 AM
I guess the question is what you accept as clearance in regards to potential mud and water coming in. I think this is fine but can understand that people want to have their headset closer to the frame. After all, a you could use the stock bearing with a 3rd party headset.
I made some pictures with zoom, so it might look like a large gap when in reality it is nearly not noticeable.
Thanks! so it seems to be like 1mm - 1.5mm gap
Quote from: emilioea on January 20, 2026, 03:17:04 AM
I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html
which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).
With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.
That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it's a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
With such bearing the rubber cover sits well in place with no rubbing
Quote from: RDC on January 20, 2026, 12:21:35 PM
That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it's a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
With such bearing the rubber cover sits well in place with no rubbing
Interesting, my bearing was 7 mm thick, so that's why I had to be creative :D
I didn't know Mondince sent that headset, it's a lot better than the one from SPCycle.
mondince 326, who has M at 182cm and 89cm inseam? Is it better to go for L?
Maybe somebody got picture ?
Quote from: Kscibior86 on January 20, 2026, 03:56:32 PM
mondince 326, who has M at 182cm and 89cm inseam? Is it better to go for L?
Maybe somebody got picture ?
I have got nearly the same measurements (88cm inner leg and a cm less,) and I have a medium. Go to the Mondraker page and look for recommendations on the ARID.
See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg101938.html#msg101938 for a picture.
I am figuring out stem length etc but I am roughly in the ballpark, although the seat post is very high
Use bike stats and bike insights to compare the frame
Okay I was curious and took the whole headset apart again.
The PRO bearing is also 7mm. I could not take a photo while measuring as I would need another set of hands 😜
As the Mondince bearing is 8mm,I am wondering how this works?!
The sealing hip seems to be pushed down on the frame?
Quote from: RDC on January 19, 2026, 03:40:05 PM
haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube
I'm amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?
I received my frame two weeks ago and started building straight away. I did end up missing a few parts to complete the build, so currently waiting for that to arrive.
Attached a pic of the current state. ;D
I am not sure what I like more, the bike or the coffee machine :-)
Quote from: Svurre on January 21, 2026, 03:09:42 AM
I received my frame two weeks ago and started building straight away. I did end up missing a few parts to complete the build, so currently waiting for that to arrive.
Attached a pic of the current state. ;D
Received the frame yesterday.
Paint is great, bottom brackets threads easily by hand. Brake surfaces might need faced, we will see.
I did test fit the bigrock handlebars, but with the included compression rings there is a decent gap. Will need to see if I can grind them down to minimize that, unless others have a good idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/8L9JlJ9.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4lY5Wlh.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Htipufi.png)
Frame Weight without any metal bits:
(https://i.imgur.com/Jg8ewGz.png)
Waiting on cranks and tires, no hurry here though as the weather is dreadful for at least the next 1.5 months.....
Quote from: impmonkey on January 21, 2026, 07:42:45 AM
Received the frame yesterday.
Paint is great, bottom brackets threads easily by hand. Brake surfaces might need faced, we will see.
I did test fit the bigrock handlebars, but with the included compression rings there is a decent gap. Will need to see if I can grind them down to minimize that, unless others have a good idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/8L9JlJ9.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4lY5Wlh.png)
Waiting on cranks and tires, no hurry here though as the weather is dreadful for at least the next 1.5 months.....
That paint looks very nice :)
Finally got my FM326 build done! Paid for on December 21st, received in California on January 20th. Edit: Whoops, it was delivered on Jan 15th, not the 20th.
Sram XPLR groupset and XM Carbon Speed's 32.5mm internal width gravel wheels w/ titanium spokes. 50mm tires measure out to 52.5mm WAM. About 4-5mm clearance on each side on the fork and 3-4mm clearance on the chainstays in the rear. Internal routing was easy, using the headset cap/spacers provided with the Toseek integrated handlebar.
My inseam is 86cm and I'm 178cm tall, riding a size medium with an 80mm stem. I'm about 1-2 cm from being maxed out on seatpost insertion. I maybe could have gone with a large frame, but was concerned about the longer reach, as I tend to need shorter overall reach (loong legs).
Sorry for the boring question...I'm looking at the 326 and currently ride a Ridley Kanzo Fast in size Large. I'm trying to work out the stem length and setup points i need to order given the quite different geo...while the reach is way longer, the seat post is more upright so bike insights kind of makes it look like I don't need to get a stem that exactly matches the reach on the Ridley.
Any tips for how to spec it please?
Current spec on the Ridley is a 100mm stem
Quote from: dynomatt on January 21, 2026, 09:32:42 PM
Any tips for how to spec it please?
Current spec on the Ridley is a 100mm stem
Take all your current measurements and geo and put them into chatgpt. Ask it to calculate the stem for the new bike and then give it all the new geo numbers.
At my saddle height 1 degree of seat angle ate up 12mm of reach
After a first attempt with some hiccups, I consider today's ride my first test ride with the bike.
I have changed a few things:
- reduced the stem to 70mm, just like the Mondraker Arid would have in M/L
- maxed out saddle setback, I might even consider switching to a seat post with setback again
- lowered the saddle height
This makes for a very compact, comfortable position. I might even remove the 5mm spacer on the stem.
The high seat post, wide 9velo wheels and 50mm Rx pro, make the ride is super smooth.
Cobblestones, gravel, whatever, you roll over it like nothing whereas before my teeth might have clattered.
I really enjoyed this ride and look forward to re ride my usual trails to experience how different it is.
Two notes:
I added a 52mm O ring over the headset seal and between the cap, fits perfectly and seals everything.
Water came in the storage unit during bike wash, I will try to find a solution and share it. Thanks for the headset up, I wiped it away before it drowned my utility bag
Quote from: v0llhirsch on January 23, 2026, 11:05:57 AM
I added a 52mm O ring over the headset seal and between the cap, fits perfectly and seals everything.
Just a standard oring? Seems like a good idea.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on January 23, 2026, 11:05:57 AM
After a first attempt with some hiccups, I consider today's ride my first test ride with the bike.
Definitely keep us posted if you find a decent way to "weatherproof" the storage compartment. Love the two-tone paint job, and smart thinking about the o-ring.
While picking parts and thinking about the geo, I was also wondering if a setback post would be a good idea. I figured I would ride the stock post for a while though and see if it was necessary.
Quote from: impmonkey on January 23, 2026, 04:23:35 PM
Just a standard oring? Seems like a good idea.
Thanks! For this headset something with 52mm outer width and 2mm thickness was the right choice:
https://amzn.eu/d/04nkslY
If you use other headsets, you might need to adjust the diameter.
For the sealant, I am thinking about either a thin rubber lip or sanitary silicone.
Hi,
I got my frame (mondince FM326, size large) a few weeks ago and as I wanted to install my 2.1 Mezcal Tires in the I noticed back that I got way less space on the drive side to the chain stays, than on the non-dive side. That would result in not beeing able to use that size of a tire, since it would get to close for comfort.
Now my question is: Has anyone of you experienced the same issue? If, yes how did you solve it? My suggestion is, that there is some exess resin or paint beneath the UDH hanger, which makes it sit not completely perfect and therefore resulting in my tire sitting at an angle.
I also tested it with different wheels to make sure, the wheel is not the problem.
In the attached pictures you can see it with a 40mm road tire: on the drive side I can fit a 6mm hex key, on the non drive side a 8mm fits in.
With 52.5mm WAM tires my frame clears a 3mm allen key on the NDS and 4mm key on the DS.
You may try measure the rim, not the tyre.
Tyre tolerances are ... well, not good.
1 mm offset at a lever of 350 mm is not a lot.
Any cycling industry itself is not well known for good tolerances.
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on January 25, 2026, 02:48:53 AM
You may try measure the rim, not the tyre.
Tyre tolerances are ... well, not good.
1 mm offset at a lever of 350 mm is not a lot.
Any cycling industry itself is not well known for good tolerances.
With the rim it is about them same proportion as with tire. non drive side about 19mm vs 15mm on the drive side.
Quote from: AG1 on January 25, 2026, 04:12:39 AM
With the rim it is about them same proportion as with tire. non drive side about 19mm vs 15mm on the drive side.
That is too big difference.
And the width of the rear is 142mm? Wheel too?
Do you miss a spacer for your cassette or something?
Like the required 1,8mm spacer for XD cassettes on XDR or something for Shimano.
?
Since you've already tested multiple wheels, this is unlikely the cause of your issues, but just to be 100% sure: try to install the wheel in reverse (e.g. disc-brake side on the drive side). If the wheel is incorrectly dished, you will now have the narrower clearance at the other side of the bike. If you still have the same clearances as before, then you can completely rule out issues with the wheel dish.
If you're suspecting that the UDH is not seated perfectly straight, then remove it and check for resin or paint in the dropout (which you may have to sand carefuly if that's the case). You can also try to measure if the clearance is meaningfully different when the thru axle is a bit loose vs fully tightened (e.g. test 2 Nm vs 12 Nm)
About to pull the trigger.
We will see... plan is to get a transparent carbon look, as I like to get stealthy.
Wheelset from already on the way, Tagoola XPLR.
Quote from: AG1 on January 24, 2026, 08:47:50 AM
Hi,
I got my frame (mondince FM326, size large) a few weeks ago and as I wanted to install my 2.1 Mezcal Tires in the I noticed back that I got way less space on the drive side to the chain stays, than on the non-dive side. That would result in not beeing able to use that size of a tire, since it would get to close for comfort.
Now my question is: Has anyone of you experienced the same issue? If, yes how did you solve it? My suggestion is, that there is some exess resin or paint beneath the UDH hanger, which makes it sit not completely perfect and therefore resulting in my tire sitting at an angle.
I also tested it with different wheels to make sure, the wheel is not the problem.
In the attached pictures you can see it with a 40mm road tire: on the drive side I can fit a 6mm hex key, on the non drive side a 8mm fits in.
Have same problem in L frame
'patched' by adding a washer between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem
In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can't be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH
Quote from: RDC on January 26, 2026, 02:05:39 PM
Have same problem in L frame
'patched' by adding a washer between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem
In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can't be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH
That's why I tried to ask to measure the width of the rear.
144mm. Why?
Quote from: RDC on January 26, 2026, 02:05:39 PM
Have same problem in L frame
'patched' by adding a washer between the UDH and frame, as I have done in the past with a Scott Spark having similar problem
In my Mondince L frame I could notice that rear hub spacing was little larger. When axle is not tightened, the spacing is equal. When you start tightening, because the right chainstay has different flexibility than the left side, it shifts the wheel gap.
By adding the washer you minimize this effect when tightening. Of course washer can't be very thick to avoid thread problem at UDH
I now sanded away al the overspray in every critical area, changed the UDH hanger and also tried different torques when tightening the hanger. All of it with limited success, the difference got slightly less, but not enough.
I also measured my wheels axle which comes out at 142.5. I have a fair amount of play as well with this before tightening the througaxle - so the washer solution will be my next try.
How did you manage the hanger to still sit flat with the washer inbetween? And how thic is that washer?
anyone ordered pearl inside?
anyway, pulled the trigger today.
blue transparent, glossy. We will see, when it's here.
Quote from: AG1 on January 27, 2026, 12:32:30 AM
I now sanded away al the overspray in every critical area, changed the UDH hanger and also tried different torques when tightening the hanger. All of it with limited success, the difference got slightly less, but not enough.
I also measured my wheels axle which comes out at 142.5. I have a fair amount of play as well with this before tightening the througaxle - so the washer solution will be my next try.
How did you manage the hanger to still sit flat with the washer inbetween? And how thic is that washer?
I have tested the spacer method with a few SRAM pedal washers (for testing purposes only) between the endcap of my wheels drive side and the hanger. Worked out, wheel sits centered (as far as sticking in a hex key can measure that). What I find concerning, I had to use 2.4mm to get it about right, which seems a lot. Only need to get the right washer to put between the hanger and the frame now.
I will check tyre clearance with thunder burt. If more space is needed on the drive side, I will make a longer endcap.
If tyre is centered correctly, i don't mind that a rear is too wide. Carbon fiber bends. 2mm is not much.
But if you use T-type derailleur you can't use washer or longer endcap?
However, the rear should be 142mm wide. 144mm is not correct.
Just got mine. Anyone feel like the BB is very flexy under power?
Quote from: pavlo.k on January 04, 2026, 07:22:53 AM
Finished my build. Spcycle G026 size XL light purple. Tagoola XPLR wheels, eGR groupset with magura calipers, leese crankset, e*13 9-44 cassette, toseek cockpit, elita one seatpost
the build went smoothly apart from a few small issues:
- BB threads were a bit rough and I've spent probably 20 minutes trying to install the BB because it felt like cross-threading
- the chainstay is really narrow and there were some loose fibers on the inside so I had to use the internal routing tool with a magnet to pull the wire through.
One thing regarding the downtube storage. It's really small maybe a few mm wider that the door. You don't actually get an access to the entire downtube but the storage area has carbon walls that feel paper thin. Will see how it's going to hold up
Hey I see you got a pretty large size. What is your opinion on lateral stiffness? I got a size L and am not sure if it is too flexy..
Quote from: Alexbikes on January 28, 2026, 09:13:22 PM
Just got mine. Anyone feel like the BB is very flexy under power?
Hey Alex, is the flex visible just pressing on the BB while standing still? If so, possible you can take video?
Quote from: Alexbikes on January 29, 2026, 08:43:56 AM
Hey I see you got a pretty large size. What is your opinion on lateral stiffness? I got a size L and am not sure if it is too flexy..
I didn't have a chance to properly test ride it yet. I'll report back
Quote from: pavlo.k on January 29, 2026, 12:42:00 PM
I didn't have a chance to properly test ride it yet. I'll report back
Sounds good
Quote from: CJ on January 29, 2026, 11:11:46 AM
Hey Alex, is the flex visible just pressing on the BB while standing still? If so, possible you can take video?
Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
One of my best ever 50 min power https://www.strava.com/activities/17219729904
Thanks
Quote from: Alexbikes on January 29, 2026, 06:29:11 PM
Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
One of my best ever 50 min power https://www.strava.com/activities/17219729904
Thanks
Serious power, very nice!
Damn! Those are some serious numbers.
Quote from: Alexbikes on January 29, 2026, 06:29:11 PM
Honestly I think I may have overreacted. I had a very stiff aluminum bike before so it makes sense this is a little flexier. I just finished a race with it on my trainer and did not rlly notice the stiffness.
One of my best ever 50 min power https://www.strava.com/activities/17219729904
Thanks
Nice! Next summer you will fly!
A carbon fiber bike is much more comfortable than an aluminum one. Of course, there is a difference in the stiffness of bottombracket. I have one old BH G7 with a flexy bb, i like it. Systemsix is very stiff. Fun bike, but not so comfortable on bad roads.
I think flexy is good for a gravel bike.
Thanks all yup I think it will be fast
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?
Quote from: warbird2006 on February 01, 2026, 03:48:35 PM
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?
I haven't tried it, but it should work fine. Most gravel suspension forks are around 430 mm (and once you're on the bike, you'll have some initial compression -SAG-), and the FM326 is 420 mm, so geometry will be almost the same with the suspension fork.
Quote from: warbird2006 on February 01, 2026, 03:48:35 PM
Mondice claims the frame is compatible with SUSPENSION FORK(RockShock Rudy 30-50MM Travel). Anyone tried it with the suspension fork?
That's my plan. I've got the frame and 40mm Rudy's, just waiting for wheels and few other parts before I can test out the result.
Here is an update from my attempt of waterproofing the storage compartment.
I used masking tape to cover the paint and applied a thin layer of transparent sanitary silicone all around the lid and on the upper side of the box, right on the bike.
I assume that the most water would be coming in from there.
My setup dried out for 24 hours now and the layer is thin enough that the box closes without issues. I have also added some silicone around the holes and basically glued the washer in place.
I am aiming for a ride on the weekend and given the weather conditions, a bike wash is guaranteed.
Then I will let you know if that worked or not
I will drill a hole at the bottom of the storage box to let the water flow away...
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
Hi all,
I'm waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I've already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you've tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
Quote from: rebbesen on February 04, 2026, 06:00:43 AM
Hi all,
I'm waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I've already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you've tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
I am curious as well because I also have these wheels.
Quote from: rebbesen on February 04, 2026, 06:00:43 AM
Hi all,
I'm waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I've already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you've tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
I'm also curious actually.
For reference I am currently running Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H 700x50 on the Elitewheels Gravel Aero+, and the tires blow up to 54 mm. The clearence on the back is tight. :P
Quote from: cosmostar on February 04, 2026, 01:07:38 AM
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
Sorry, no pictures of it, as the bag that came with my frame is already in the bin. Just too small to be of any practical use - about half the width and height of the storage box - you could possible use it store a highlighter pen or cigar, but not much else.. An old sock would function better than the supplied bag :)
I would also have a tire-related question:
For those running 50mm tires: how much clearance ist there above the tire to the seat tube?
Would it be enough to squeeze in mudguards/fenders?
(I guess the fork is not problem.)
Quote from: cosmostar on February 04, 2026, 01:07:38 AM
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
Here's some pics of the bag. I agree with the comments about it being pretty small.
Quote from: Hobbes on February 04, 2026, 03:55:55 PM
I would also have a tire-related question:
For those running 50mm tires: how much clearance ist there above the tire to the seat tube?
Would it be enough to squeeze in mudguards/fenders?
(I guess the fork is not problem.)
Here's a pic of the seat stay/seat tube clearance. These are 50mm Conti Terra Hardpacks that measure out to about 52.5mm WAM on 32.5mm internal width rims. I'd say <1cm at the narrowest point.
Quote from: rebbesen on February 04, 2026, 06:00:43 AM
Hi all,
I'm waiting for my Mondraker FM316 frame and I've already picked up a complete SRAM Force XPLR 13-speed groupset plus Elite Wheels Aero+ wheels (32 mm internal).
Has anyone here successfully run Schwalbe Thunder Burt 29×2.1 on this frame?
I know actual tire width depends a lot on rim internal width, and with 32 mm internal I suspect the TB 2.1 will measure quite a bit wider than nominal.
If you've tried it, could you share:
Measured tire width (mm) on your rim
Clearance at fork + chainstays/seatstays
Thanks!
Hey man I have been looking everywhere for this groupset, I happen not to be stateside I know the answer would be your LBS but where the heck can I get this tasty groupset? Do you have an online link or an e mail where I could ask for a price qoute?
Quote from: jes2k13 on February 04, 2026, 10:41:28 PM
Hey man I have been looking everywhere for this groupset, I happen not to be stateside I know the answer would be your LBS but where the heck can I get this tasty groupset? Do you have an online link or an e mail where I could ask for a price qoute?
Where are you located? Any reason you can't buy it online?
Quote from: Grailer on February 04, 2026, 11:48:13 PM
Where are you located? Any reason you can't buy it online?
It seems to be very hard to find this groupset apart from u folks in the USA as it is fairly very new. Which retailer or e tailer did you purchased it from? Which biggest online bike dealers in the USA carries all the major inventory of SRAM I am from the middle east and most of out stuff here is only Shimano. I think SRAM is very abundant in the USA. Very hard to find SRAM force XPLR 13 speed groupset. Can u please give me some leads?
Quote from: cosmostar on February 04, 2026, 01:07:38 AM
Hey, guys! I bought a version of this frame from spcycle and it doesn't provide a bag for storage space. It seems Mondince has such a bag, could someone please show it in a photo (preferably from several angles). I'll try to custom-make a similar one. By the way, how do you like this bag? Maybe there are some thoughts about improving it?
It's small but a few useful things can be packed into it.
In my case:
- two TPU tubes
- latex gloves
- zip ties
- tubeless puncture kit
Quote from: jes2k13 on February 05, 2026, 01:28:37 AM
It seems to be very hard to find this groupset apart from u folks in the USA as it is fairly very new. Which retailer or e tailer did you purchased it from? Which biggest online bike dealers in the USA carries all the major inventory of SRAM I am from the middle east and most of out stuff here is only Shimano. I think SRAM is very abundant in the USA. Very hard to find SRAM force XPLR 13 speed groupset. Can u please give me some leads?
You might want to check if https://r2-bike.com/ ships to your country.
They are located in Germany and carry a large inventory
Quote from: Grailer on February 04, 2026, 04:34:47 PM
Here's a pic of the seat stay/seat tube clearance. These are 50mm Conti Terra Hardpacks that measure out to about 52.5mm WAM on 32.5mm internal width rims. I'd say <1cm at the narrowest point.
Thank you! Looks tight, but might be doable :D
Quote from: jes2k13 on February 04, 2026, 10:41:28 PM
Hey man I have been looking everywhere for this groupset, I happen not to be stateside I know the answer would be your LBS but where the heck can I get this tasty groupset? Do you have an online link or an e mail where I could ask for a price qoute?
Hi,
I'm in Denmark, so I have actually ordered from r2-bike.com, as also suggested by v0llhirsch. They were the only ones (from DE, which is cheaper than eny online shops in DK) having a complete groupset with crankset in 160 mm w. watt: but I can see that now it's the 170 and 175 in stock: https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Force-XPLR-AXS-Wide-HRD-E1-Gravel-Groupset-1x13-AXS-Powermeter-Crankset
Mondince 1-bolt seatpost is really good. Have you found similar ones elsewhere?
I ordered spcycle hb-068 handlebar. 105di2 levers, deore m6250 derailleur and red crank.
Maybe 46t front and 10-51 rear.
The dimensions look good. I'll just move more forward.
hb-068 is included in the picture. The rest should arrive next week.
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
tyre clearance with 52mm tyre
My build is finally finished. This is the first time I build a bike on my own and most of the time has been spent waiting for different parts that I forgot to order... ::)
Frame
Mondince FM326
Size Medium
Fork without rivets
Painted in Pantone 5535 C
Drivetrain
SRAM Rival XPLR E1 derailleur
SRAM Rival XPLR XG-1351 cassette
SRAM Rival E1 chain
SRAM Rival Dub Wide crankset (170 mm)
Garbaruk 46T chainring
SRAM T47 bottom bracket
Brakes
SRAM Apex AXS shifters
SRAM Apex calipers
SRAM Paceline X rotors (160 mm)
Wheels
Elitewheels Gravel Aero+
Pirelli Cinturato 50 mm (actual width 53-54 mm)
Cockpit
Sixpack Gravel ICR stem (70 mm)
Sixpack Gravel stem out front mount
Acros headset
PRO Discover 20 alloy handlebar (420 mm)
Seating
Mondince standard seatpost
Fizik Terra Argo X3 saddle
Quote from: darkening on February 07, 2026, 02:46:26 AM
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
Really nice setup!
What chainline you use with leese crankset? grx/sram wide or normal road?
I have a sram wide crankset and I'm thinking about buying a 3mm offset chainring. Maybe the 46-51 combination will start to make noise if use sram wide chainline?
Quote from: darkening on February 07, 2026, 02:46:26 AM
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
Out of curiosity, how much chain links do you require for that 46T - 52T combination?
Not that I am in the condition to swap for a larger ring at the moment but I can start day dreaming 🥳😁
hi folks, love all your builds! No one with a full integrated mud guard here? Is there a possibility to mount it on the rear on three points?
Quote from: Er7ik on February 07, 2026, 01:32:32 PM
hi folks, love all your builds! No one with a full integrated mud guard here? Is there a possibility to mount it on the rear on three points?
It's got standard mounts on the seat stays and behind the bottom bracket. However the front fork doesn't have mounts.
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
Quote from: Hobbes on February 08, 2026, 02:22:00 AM
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
That shoe thing can happen if you rotate too much outward with the hip.
If ever, it happens on my right side and acts as a reminder for me to do the hip mobility drills 😁
It's nothing that bothers me or stops the pedaling flow in any way, I guess SPD allows this leeway whereas SPD SL or Look road cleats don't let you go as far sideways
If it happens, I correct my position on the bike and off we go.
I have 165mm cranks and size 46 shoes.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on February 08, 2026, 03:28:59 AM
That shoe thing can happen if you rotate too much outward with the hip.
If ever, it happens on my right side and acts as a reminder for me to do the hip mobility drills 😁
It's nothing that bothers me or stops the pedaling flow in any way, I guess SPD allows this leeway whereas SPD SL or Look road cleats don't let you go as far sideways
If it happens, I correct my position on the bike and off we go.
I have 165mm cranks and size 46 shoes.
Are you running wide cranks or standard road? In the end it's about a proper q factor
Quote from: Hobbes on February 08, 2026, 02:22:00 AM
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
I had a very filthy ride yesterday and now have a noticeable wear mark on my non drive side chain stay from my heel rubbing. I didn't notice at all whist riding and have now added some heli tape to stop it getting any worse.
Quote from: Japeke on February 07, 2026, 09:30:13 AM
What chainline you use with leese crankset? grx/sram wide or normal road?
standard road chainline
Quote from: Japeke on February 07, 2026, 09:30:13 AM
Maybe the 46-51 combination will start to make noise if use sram wide chainline?
I dont have any noises at 46-52 gear....Its quiet. I did not count chain length though...I've reused old drivetrain combo that i was using with Twitter Gravel X. Only change was Wheeltop GEX(long cage) -> SRAM S1000 ( you need about 2,5mm spacer to a jockey wheels to be able to use this with not T-TYPE cassete) / FORCE levers.
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on February 08, 2026, 07:15:09 AM
Are you running wide cranks or standard road? In the end it's about a proper q factor
SRAM wide for 85,5mm shell, with the 2,5 and 5,5 spacers in place
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf
46.5 shoe is not normal :)
I do not expect any shoe rubbing. A good reason to push the cleat as far back as possible.
very cool frameset. thinking of replacing my tideace GR201.
can anyone confirm what's the max clearance on the 395mm fork? can it clear a 2.2 tyre?
Quote from: Hobbes on February 08, 2026, 02:22:00 AM
Getting seriously tempted by now. Trying to find something make me not pull the trigger :'D
Watched some reviews of the Mondraker Arid. Heard now several times that people a) hit the chain stays with their shoes, and b) touch the wind-eye thingy with their calves.
Anyone here experienced the same issues?
I've also noticed a bit of heel rub on the chainstays, but having read about it before building the bike up, I preemptively added some helicopter tape to the contact points. I haven't noticed any rub on the "wind-eye" part of the frame.
To add some data points, I wear ~EU43/US10 shoes and am running Sram XPLR E1 cranks with SPL-SL pedals on a side medium frame. I shifted the cleats a little farther back on the shoe, and also slightly tweaked the angle to reduce the distance my heel pivots towards the chainstay, and both of these helped.
Quote from: akira11 on February 08, 2026, 11:35:33 AM
very cool frameset. thinking of replacing my tideace GR201.
can anyone confirm what's the max clearance on the 395mm fork? can it clear a 2.2 tyre?
I'd say the fork has ~60mm clearance. So a 2.2" (56mm) tire
could technically work, depending on your risk tolerance and type of conditions you're riding in. The rear has more like 56-57mm clearance.
To those who have built bikes from this frame, where did you buy the gnommets (rubber thingy for cable exits)?
Many thanks to those who answered my question!
Quote from: gribs on February 07, 2026, 05:45:35 PM
It's got standard mounts on the seat stays and behind the bottom bracket. However the front fork doesn't have mounts.
My fork has three mounts:
- Below the crown
- One smaller bolt on each side, below the three cargo bolts
---
btw: who claimed to love the seat post mount?
My bolt fell down the seat tube and it looks like it is stuck between frame and BB.
I am cursing this construct right now
Quote from: v0llhirsch on February 09, 2026, 03:50:07 AM
My fork has three mounts:
- Below the crown
- One smaller bolt on each side, below the three cargo bolts
Mines the same. I'm used to a front mud guard mount being at the bottom rear of the fork rather than part way up the side of the leg.
I bit the bullet as well. Ordered XL matte light pink from SPcycle today with Valentine day's coupons + Tagoola 50mm XRLP wheelset + Elita one no setback seatpost + KEOS 46t aero chainring.
Tires TBD, crankset will be wide version of either Red or Force E1 (depending if I want to play over double for 100g less and more bling), 105 di2 groupsetand Favero MX pedals. Will try zrace xg4 brakes instead of 105s. From weightweenies forum the RD does support 45t cassette so will try to use it with XT 10-45. Will report how it goes, but thats probably few month away.
Note - frame requires minimum 12cm insertion, hence previously considered L was not an option unless with 450mm seatpost.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on February 09, 2026, 03:50:07 AM
btw: who claimed to love the seat post mount?
My bolt fell down the seat tube and it looks like it is stuck between frame and BB.
I am cursing this construct right now
I'm guessing Japeke was talking about the seatpost itself, and not the clamp?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg103631.html#msg103631
I almost dropped the frame clamp into the seat tube as well at one point. ;D
Seatpost rail clamp system. That looks really good. Like i ritcheys.
That post clamp is pretty common on aero bikes. I lost one of my systemsix and almost ordered a new one :)
There is a new frameset at mondince, FM336.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-toray-t800-and-t1000-high-stiffness-storage-space-full-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-fm336
Biggest change seems to be new geometry, head tube steeper at around 71.5 depending on frame size. As well different, magnetic storage box cover.
Reach and stack seems to be significantly shorter as well.
Hi everyone! I'm new here — thanks a lot for all the great info shared in this thread, it's been really helpful.
I can't find any photos of it in size XS. Does anyone have pictures of an XS frame or complete bike?
I'm 160 cm tall — would size XS be the right choice? If anyone here rides it in XS, how does it feel (comfortable vs aggressive)?
Thanks!
Quote from: darkening on February 07, 2026, 02:46:26 AM
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
Beautiful!! What size is the frame?
Quote from: uplined on February 14, 2026, 02:27:54 AM
There is a new frameset at mondince, FM336.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-toray-t800-and-t1000-high-stiffness-storage-space-full-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-fm336
Biggest change seems to be new geometry, head tube steeper at around 71.5 depending on frame size. As well different, magnetic storage box cover.
Reach and stack seems to be significantly shorter as well.
What frame is the design template?
The FM326 basically a Mondraker Arid but my first attempts to find a match for the FM336 have been unsuccessful.
I tried cube NuRoad and Propain Terrel CF, ..
Quote from: uplined on February 14, 2026, 02:27:54 AM
There is a new frameset at mondince, FM336.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026-toray-t800-and-t1000-high-stiffness-storage-space-full-carbon-gravel-bike-frame-fm336
Biggest change seems to be new geometry, head tube steeper at around 71.5 depending on frame size. As well different, magnetic storage box cover.
Reach and stack seems to be significantly shorter as well.
Oh nice!! They came back to a more classic Geo.
I was looking at the fm316 but that Geo was too weird for me to pull the trigger.
This new one seems perfect! I am happy to have waited and not buy a yoelo Altera or a Tideace gv201.
The Fm336 could tick all the case.
Any more info about it?
Thanks.
Teflon tape and grease work really well with the T47 bottom bracket. Removes unnecessary play from the thread.
The FM336 has the same geometry as trek checkmate for the larger sizes. The fork is a bit different
Heads up, the FM326 was updated with a new fork w/ the same 420mm A-C and 50/55mm offset measurements
Updates:
- Max 29*2.25mm/700*57mm tire
- Flip-chip design
BTW finished 8th (80 starters) at a recent race on the FM316. Yes, it's still fast. I missed the early break.
https://www.bikesignup.com/Race/Results/Simple/178269#resultSetId-625976;perpage:100
(Note: one of the racers ahead of me cut the course by 5 miles by accident, technically DNF)
(https://i.ibb.co/x87vHmMb/FM326-Fork2-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/VpN4j8y0/FM326-Fork2-2.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/G4j2vKs9/FM326-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Qjhvm44C/FM326-2.jpg)
Quote from: CJ on February 17, 2026, 10:28:54 PM
Heads up, the FM326 was updated with a new fork w/ the same 420mm A-C and 50/55mm offset measurements
Flip Chip is now more up and down direccion. What is real a-c and stack?
Edit: And that looks like a mtb fork. I prefer fm316 fork and geometry.
I'm just waiting for spring and test ride. Saddle setback is 25mm and stack/reach is still like a roadbike.
Quote from: Japeke on February 17, 2026, 09:29:32 AM
Teflon tape and grease work really well with the T47 bottom bracket. Removes unnecessary play from the thread.
Which play?
Honestly, I was surprised by the quality of the T47 threads.
BB went in by hand without any issues and I just needed the torque wrench to tighten it.
(actually I am on my 2nd T47BB in that bike right now, since my SRAM DUB, which I just switched from my old bike, just gave up. And that after less than 12 months. So, no more SRAM DUBs for me, here my money goes to quality equipment)
I bought a wolf's BB. I don't know a better sealed bottom bracket for the t47 standard.
I've also destroyed three Sram dub bottom brackets on my mountain bike within a year.
The frame thread was slightly on the upper limit and the wolf's slightly on the lower limit.
I don't blame either one. This is a t47 problem. The thread only has a pitch of one millimeter and the diameter is quite large.
But anyway, there was clearly too much clearance. Wolf advised using Teflon tape and it really works.
Teflon tape also seals the thread.
Need to bleed the brakes and wrap the bars but she is rolling
(https://i.imgur.com/HNlscwD.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B7ESRZ3.jpeg)
Hey all mondince owners, I want to test out the shorter fork (I only have the 420mm). Did anyone try it an not like it and is willing to sell it to an aspiring junior racer (yeah I cannot afford too much)
I reached out to mondince and got quoted 150 USD. If anyone has something that they could let go for cheaper that would be great. I also have a 100USD giftcard for a bikeshop in Michigan that I won at ICEMAN and cannot use from here in Canada so I could ship that over plus etransfer if anyone has the shorter fork
Quote from: impmonkey on February 21, 2026, 06:47:52 PM
Need to bleed the brakes and wrap the bars but she is rolling
Very cool looking. What color is that?
And did you apply stickers on the frame or was it part of the paint job?
Quote from: v0llhirsch on February 23, 2026, 09:26:33 AM
Very cool looking. What color is that?
And did you apply stickers on the frame or was it part of the paint job?
(https://www.pantone.com/media/color-finder/img/chips/pantone-color-chip-7589-c.webp)
I applied the Vinyl decals and then applied the 3m film to the frame
It seems that factory added two threadless carbon seatpost adapters instead of one threaded and one threadless, so there's no way to secure the seat that I have now :( Anyone had this problem?
Other than that - assembly was a success!
Quote from: shokas on March 01, 2026, 11:23:21 AM
It seems that factory added two threadless carbon seatpost adapters instead of one threaded and one threadless, so there's no way to secure the seat that I have now :( Anyone had this problem?
Other than that - assembly was a success!
Beautiful. How much was the paint job and total cost for frame shipped?
Quote from: shokas on March 01, 2026, 11:23:21 AM
It seems that factory added two threadless carbon seatpost adapters instead of one threaded and one threadless, so there's no way to secure the seat that I have now :( Anyone had this problem?
Other than that - assembly was a success!
Great build mate! What's size and weight? Pick assembly to your saddle
QuoteBeautiful. How much was the paint job and total cost for frame shipped?
435$ frame, 150$ for the paint job, 150$ shipping (europe), 30$ paypal fee = 765$
Quote
Great build mate! What's size and weight? Pick assembly to your saddle
Size L, 7.9 kg without saddle and pedals (~600 g), so should be around 8.5 kg final build
After a lot of research I am considering a Mondince frame. What the max chainring size for the 326 in 1x?
I really like the relaxed geo of the FM286 but it's max is 42t.
Mäybe 48 or 50t with dub wide/grx. There's plenty of room with a 46t chainring. I'm pretty sure 46t will fit with road cranks too
I have been in communication with Jim originally he told
me it was max 42t but then corrected it to 46t after checking. Now that it is confirmed I just need to decide between the 306, 326 and 336. I think I may have written off the 296 for now but that could change.
Got mine recently. Yet started to get used to the color.
Not built yet as several parts are missing...
Has anyone ridden Schwalbe 2.1 Thunder Burts on this frame for a longe period of time and can share their opinion on the clearance?
Got out on the new build for a bit of a shakedown ride.
Hood need tightening but so far so good. Getting used to the smaller 38cm bars.
(https://i.imgur.com/WMuFr9u.jpeg)
Quote from: biceryder on March 02, 2026, 03:06:37 PM
What the max chainring size for the 326 in 1x?
I have a same frame by spcycle, a chainring 48t is installed. Crankset Sram Rival Wide.
FM316 in action this past Saturday
(https://i.ibb.co/jZ4xtBg5/03-12-2026-4-09-52-PM.jpg)
Still waiting for my frameset but received Tagoola XPRL wheelset and pretty much all other parts.
50mm SCHWALBE G-One R Pro Supra V-Guard (black) measure at 52.5-52.8mm 32iw/41ew @ 3 bars (just setup as tubeless)
Quote from: OldFish on March 13, 2026, 06:36:24 AM
Still waiting for my frameset but received Tagoola XPRL wheelset and pretty much all other parts.
50mm SCHWALBE G-One R Pro Supra V-Guard (black) measure at 52.5-52.8mm 32iw/41ew @ 3 bars (just setup as tubeless)
50 mil tires at 3 bar?
That's sounds like a lot, I run my rx pro under 2 bar (also tubeless) on 28mm inner width wheels
Quote from: v0llhirsch on March 13, 2026, 11:29:32 AM
50 mil tires at 3 bar?
That's sounds like a lot, I run my rx pro under 2 bar (also tubeless) on 28mm inner width wheels
Yeah, I will definitely not be running them like this :D I just had them setup tubeless and then I usually leave overnight at 3bar to see if nothing is leaking or such.
It will be under 2 bar when in use I think as well. Have not played with Silca calculator yet and it's my first gravel so not fully calibrated on this.
Hey guys,
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I'm considering using this frame for a fast gravel build (mostly flat terrain), likely with a 52/36 setup.
For those of you who own this frame — do you think 52/36 chainrings will fit without clearance issues (chainstay / FD / tire)?
Any real-world feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
25id wr50 and 29x2.1 burt. 3-4mm clearance. Ok for me.
Esit: more pics.
Maybe littlebit shimming to left side. There is more space on the non-drive side.
46t chainring.
Hey folks
Has anyone used this on the road with road tyres and would give some feedback please.
Thanks!
I was considering this frame for my summer gravel build. Does anyone have any handlebar suggestions? I was thinking about the Thin Line https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006982346599.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3A6kuOh) since I already use it on my road build. Any suggestions?
Quote from: Pistonbroke on March 27, 2026, 03:22:18 AM
Hey folks
Has anyone used this on the road with road tyres and would give some feedback please.
Thanks!
I've used mine briefly with road wheels (32mm GP5000) for one lap of Coniston water. I was planning a recce of Hardknott and Wrynose passes as I'm doing the Fred Whitton in May and put my gravel wheels back on (50mm Terra trail). The road wheels are a bit faster but I wanted the comfort and I don't feel the slower handling of the bike really suits fast road use. I'll be doing the event on my road bike though.
This bike is stupidly fast to handle. Like a cross bike. Have to test more. And those burts are faaaaast.
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
I'm wondering, what's the delivery time to Europe in your cases ?
Quote from: jacaca2 on March 29, 2026, 03:14:08 PM
I'm wondering, what's the delivery time to Europe in your cases ?
One month and there is all. Painting in the color I chose.
And now the steering is fine. I moved the front axle to the rear position using the flipchip.
Do not think about fm316 long reach. Just move the saddle forward and use the normal stem length. Geometry is excelent.
Quote from: jacaca2 on March 29, 2026, 03:14:08 PM
I'm wondering, what's the delivery time to Europe in your cases ?
For me, it was about a month as well.
By air freight, in case you are wondering about the potential of having the parcel stuck on a ship
Quote from: Japeke on March 29, 2026, 11:30:18 AM
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
Holy cow, I am a few cm taller but also ride the M as FM326. However, just a 70mm stem.
Looks like here is my confirmation that I am as flexible as an iron rod 😥
Quote from: Japeke on March 29, 2026, 11:30:18 AM
This bike is stupidly fast to handle. Like a cross bike. Have to test more. And those burts are faaaaast.
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
Nice build! Which wheelset are you currently running? 8)
Quote from: www on March 30, 2026, 02:08:16 PM
Nice build! Which wheelset are you currently running? 8)
Lightbicycle wr50
Quote from: v0llhirsch on March 30, 2026, 12:45:32 PM
For me, it was about a month as well.
By air freight, in case you are wondering about the potential of having the parcel stuck on a ship
Correct me if i'm wrong, by month you are telling the whole process right? I Was wondering only about shipping to Europe. Becausue i've ordered framset almost month ago, last weekend they done painting in wrong colour, so the shipping will be delayed by week ...
Quote from: jacaca2 on March 31, 2026, 04:22:37 AM
Correct me if i'm wrong, by month you are telling the whole process right? I Was wondering only about shipping to Europe. Becausue i've ordered framset almost month ago, last weekend they done painting in wrong colour, so the shipping will be delayed by week ...
I ordered the bike on December, 15th including payment by PayPal and it turned up on my doorstep on January, 14th
Which is the most agressive frame from Mondince with geometry close to road bike? Im looking for a do it all allroad aero bike which take larger tyres than the Light carbon lcr018.
Quote from: Ante on April 02, 2026, 04:15:45 AM
Which is the most agressive frame from Mondince with geometry close to road bike? Im looking for a do it all allroad aero bike which take larger tyres than the Light carbon lcr018.
FM316
Been looking at it for similar reason.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on April 02, 2026, 04:34:57 AM
FM316
Been looking at it for similar reason.
What's the difference between FM316 and the FM336 with internal storage?
Quote from: Ante on April 02, 2026, 05:25:10 AM
What's the difference between FM316 and the FM336 with internal storage?
Bike insights to the rescue
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc7,698c8fc0d56d23001a8c5a58
While the 316 and the 326 are basically the same bike with a different fork, the 336 is a different design (someone wrote like the trek checkpoint or checkmate).
As always with bikes, not better or worse - you just need to figure out what you want first
EDIT: Or do you mean how much more fits into either internal storage compartment?
Quote from: v0llhirsch on April 03, 2026, 02:06:59 AM
Bike insights to the rescue
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc7,698c8fc0d56d23001a8c5a58
While the 316 and the 326 are basically the same bike with a different fork, the 336 is a different design (someone wrote like the trek checkpoint or checkmate).
As always with bikes, not better or worse - you just need to figure out what you want first
EDIT: Or do you mean how much more fits into either internal storage compartment?
The FM336 is essentially a Cube Nuroad. Some mild differences in geo. Mondince even makes all of cubes bikes.
The frame geometry is 1 to 1 Trek Checkmate SLR. The fork only has a 55mm offset instead of 49mm like the Trek.
Quote from: Ante on April 02, 2026, 04:15:45 AM
Which is the most agressive frame from Mondince with geometry close to road bike? Im looking for a do it all allroad aero bike which take larger tyres than the Light carbon lcr018.
FM106
As a road bike it's the most aggressive, and tire clearance is 2mm wider compared to the LCR018.
Quote from: Japeke on February 06, 2026, 12:09:40 PM
Mondince 1-bolt seatpost is really good. Have you found similar ones elsewhere?
I ordered spcycle hb-068 handlebar. 105di2 levers, deore m6250 derailleur and red crank.
Maybe 46t front and 10-51 rear.
The dimensions look good. I'll just move more forward.
hb-068 is included in the picture. The rest should arrive next week.
I like the color choice. Can I ask for the code?
Build almost finished, although I still need to tweak shifting and brakes a bit.
Coming from mostly riding XC full suspension bike (FM936) I can say that this bike truly feels great and does not sacrifice too much comfort. I have mostly ridden it fast so far so that also helps.
Size L matte pink frame was bought from SPCycle via Aliexpress to take advantage of January sales. Same for Tagoola XPLR wheelset, Elita One Master seatpost, Toseek TKR02 barstem. Drivetrain is a bit mix since I used already owned Shimano 105 di2 and read in https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=175217 that it works with 10-45 cassette. Coupled it with Force E1 crankset, KEOS 46t ring and ZRACE XG4 calipers due to wanting a bit more power and bling.
I am currently running Schwalbe R PRO 50mm which measures around 52.7mm on wide rims and this is really comfy and quite fast setup.
Some comments:
- I requested SPCycle to have fork without rivets, but they did not provide. Had to file exit for rear brake slightly and the painting inside internal storage will have to be adjusted, but otherwise it went smoothly
- Toseek barstem was very easy to route to and feels and looks really good. It's 380/120 but might be on slightly longer side.
- Shifting was ok on the stand initially, I adjusted the limit screws to improve it as the sound was slightly off in some middle gears and this end up making RD to not want to switch to biggest (easiest) cog on the cassette. Will need to work on this further, so far I have ridden it as 11sp 46x10-40
- Rear braking seems to lose pressure during the ride. It might be that I did not screw the calipers access bolt tightly enough and there was a bit leakage. To be confirmed.
- Disregard the position of right shifter, it was not torqued strongly enough and moved out of position during some rough patch
(https://i.ibb.co/LDpTwGDX/G026.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sp3TSBpd)
That looks fabulous! Love the pink shade too. Do you know what pantone it is?
Quote from: Bobinski on April 09, 2026, 12:40:43 AM
That looks fabulous! Love the pink shade too. Do you know what pantone it is?
No, I just asked SPCycle for the light pink option in https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIsWfRK . It was maybe a touch darker than I initially expected, but I really like the color.
Quote from: OldFish on April 08, 2026, 11:47:05 PM
I have mostly ridden it fast so far so that also helps
Quote10-45 cassette... 46t ring
Checks out ;D 8)
I ordered the frame at the beginning of last week. I'm looking forward to finally being able to assemble the bike :D
Quote from: Wilda on April 07, 2026, 04:22:36 PM
I like the color choice. Can I ask for the code?
Same than CJ:s bike, but clear coated. I don't like matt color.
I don't wash my bikes, I just spray them with water :)
And here is my new toy. Power2max+pass quest sprill.
Hi guys,
For those of you based in Europe – how long did it take for your parcel to arrive?
Mine was shipped on April 2, and according to 17Track the flight departed on April 8. That's the latest update I have so far.
On the DPD website, nothing shows up yet, no tracking info at all.
Can't wait to build up the bike! ::)
Quote from: www on April 13, 2026, 04:25:44 AM
Hi guys,
For those of you based in Europe – how long did it take for your parcel to arrive?
Mine was shipped on April 2, and according to 17Track the flight departed on April 8. That's the latest update I have so far.
On the DPD website, nothing shows up yet, no tracking info at all.
Can't wait to build up the bike! ::)
It's quite normal. Especially to Germany and with DPD AND over a weekend. ;) My last frame was booked on a flight on monday and the next update was on thursday. so nothing to worry that much. Wild guess: Your frame will be delivered on thursday a mine was :D
Quote from: SirBikealot on April 13, 2026, 05:56:05 AM
It's quite normal. Especially to Germany and with DPD AND over a weekend. ;) My last frame was booked on a flight on monday and the next update was on thursday. so nothing to worry that much. Wild guess: Your frame will be delivered on thursday a mine was :D
Sounds like I'm right in that "black hole" phase then! 😅 Hopefully I'll see an update in the next couple of days.
Thursday delivery would be perfect – fingers crossed it follows the same pattern as yours 🤞
How long did you wait for the shipment to arrive in Europe from the date of shipment?
Quote from: AltecasLT on April 15, 2026, 01:22:48 PM
How long did you wait for the shipment to arrive in Europe from the date of shipment?
Quick update on my side:
The parcel was shipped by Mondince on April 2 and arrived in Germany on April 12. It looks like the tracking info is a bit delayed, with updates showing up 2–3 days later.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I receive the frameset (I'm based in France) 🙂
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on March 06, 2026, 02:59:02 PM
Got mine recently. Yet started to get used to the color.
Not built yet as several parts are missing...
Can you show the whole frame. What's the color you chose?
Another one I saw on Reddit yesterday, in case you missed it:
Credit: @cranksmack
Is there a conclusion to which seller - spcycle or mondice - works out the best value? I tried to scan the thread and I must have missed it.
Quote from: www on April 17, 2026, 02:01:54 AM
Another one I saw on Reddit yesterday, in case you missed it:
Credit: @cranksmack
So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Building mine the upcoming days (finally), but with 50 mm Conti Terra Hardpack. Pretty cheap to get them in Germany these days.
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on April 18, 2026, 01:11:44 AM
So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Building mine the upcoming days (finally), but with 50 mm Conti Terra Hardpack. Pretty cheap to get them in Germany these days.
Quoting @cranksmack (maybe you're a chinertown member?):
3mm each side on 303 XPLR (32mm internal)
Wouldn't take them on a wet day... :)
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on April 18, 2026, 01:11:44 AM
So 54 mm are fitting. Intresting.
Building mine the upcoming days (finally), but with 50 mm Conti Terra Hardpack. Pretty cheap to get them in Germany these days.
54mm WAM should fit but will be tight. I've got the 50mm Terra Hardpack on 32mm internal rims and only have a few mm clearance on each side. It's tighter at the chainstays than on the fork.
Have a question to the owners of the frameset with a longer fork.
How does the steering feel at low speeds? Mine feels twitchy and it almost feels like a "wheel flop" that you usually get on MTBs with aggressive head tube angles. The best way I can describe it that it feels like the front wheel falls into the corner. It turns way more than you would expect and when you are maneuvering at low speed you are constantly struggling to keep balance.
I first though it was my conti hardpack tires that I hated on my previous bike but I recently mounted a new set of Hutchinson caracals and it feels exactly the same.
Quote from: pavlo.k on April 20, 2026, 12:13:02 PM
Have a question to the owners of the frameset with a longer fork.
How does the steering feel at low speeds? Mine feels twitchy and it almost feels like a "wheel flop" that you usually get on MTBs with aggressive head tube angles. The best way I can describe it that it feels like the front wheel falls into the corner. It turns way more than you would expect and when you are maneuvering at low speed you are constantly struggling to keep balance.
I first though it was my conti hardpack tires that I hated on my previous bike but I recently mounted a new set of Hutchinson caracals and it feels exactly the same.
I experience this same steering behavior, though I have gotten more used to it after a handful of rides. Not sure what aspect of the geometry design leads to the behavior, or if it's a good/bad thing.
I have now ridden a little over 500km on the FM316. Short fork and axle in rear position. Thunder burts.
Steering feel is very good. Low and fast speed.
The aero posotion is awesome. Pedaling just feels good.
And that spcycle handlebar is good. Good support for the forearms.
The only problem I see with the frame is the 144mm rear spacing. It hasn't affected the ride in any way, but I would like this to be fixed in the future.
The frame otherwise feels high quality.
I don't think the geometry with the longer fork suits running a long stem. The bikes the frames geometry is based on are running 70-80mm stems. I've got a 90mm on my medium and I'll get round to trying a old spare 70mm mtb one to see if it improves it. I can imagine it feels odd if you're used to riding road bikes but it rides much more like an old mtb.
Quote from: gribs on April 21, 2026, 05:15:44 AM
I don't think the geometry with the longer fork suits running a long stem. The bikes the frames geometry is based on are running 70-80mm stems. I've got a 90mm on my medium and I'll get round to trying a old spare 70mm mtb one to see if it improves it. I can imagine it feels odd if you're used to riding road bikes but it rides much more like an old mtb.
but longer stem should make it more stable, doesn't it? it slows the steering down since you have a longer handlebar rotation curve.
I really hate how the bike handles and I'm tempted to order a shorter fork from Mondince but I'm not sure that it's going to solve it since I don't know what's causing it
I don't have that feeling at all with the FM326 (size S). I have no complaints about the handling, with 80 mm stem and 400 mm handlebar.
Man... I'm soooo unsure about the size too...
I ride a Merida Scultura in size M, an ICAN A40 (Cinelli Pressure 1st gen) in size L, and both have almost the same reach...
But I have to push the saddle all the way forward on both of them to get the perfect pedal stroke...
Based on ChatGPT and my own calculations and comparisons on https://geometrygeeks.bike/, the FM313 model would suit me best... and that's in size S... but that just feels wrong somehow?!?!?!
It looks so small, too...???
The 75° seat angle theoretically lets me sit better over the bottom bracket so I don't have to sit all the way forward.
With size M, the reach would be huuuuge....
I'm 1.83 m tall with an 86 cm inseam...
I always ride aggressively when I'm out on this bike... meaning road bike on fast gravel, dirt roads, or forest roads... not so much for bikepacking, trails or leisurely rides... I'm usually riding with a certain amount of intensity
Can anyone offer some expert advice?
What handlebar bag do you have? I saw this one https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006289272170.html? (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c39p4Cfn), but I'd love to hear your advice before I buy it :)
Quote from: WhityWhite on April 21, 2026, 06:59:18 AM
Man... I'm soooo unsure about the size too...
I ride a Merida Scultura in size M, an ICAN A40 (Cinelli Pressure 1st gen) in size L, and both have almost the same reach...
But I have to push the saddle all the way forward on both of them to get the perfect pedal stroke...
Based on ChatGPT and my own calculations and comparisons on https://geometrygeeks.bike/, the FM313 model would suit me best... and that's in size S... but that just feels wrong somehow?!?!?!
It looks so small, too...???
The 75° seat angle theoretically lets me sit better over the bottom bracket so I don't have to sit all the way forward.
With size M, the reach would be huuuuge....
I'm 1.83 m tall with an 86 cm inseam...
I always ride aggressively when I'm out on this bike... meaning road bike on fast gravel, dirt roads, or forest roads... not so much for bikepacking, trails or leisurely rides... I'm usually riding with a certain amount of intensity
Can anyone offer some expert advice?
I can't offer you an expert advise but I'm 183/88 cm and I ordered last week FM326 size M, based on the Mondraker Arid recomedations (same as M/L size) and Canyon grail calculator.
Quote from: WhityWhite on April 21, 2026, 06:59:18 AM
Man... I'm soooo unsure about the size too...
I ride a Merida Scultura in size M, an ICAN A40 (Cinelli Pressure 1st gen) in size L, and both have almost the same reach...
But I have to push the saddle all the way forward on both of them to get the perfect pedal stroke...
Based on ChatGPT and my own calculations and comparisons on https://geometrygeeks.bike/, the FM313 model would suit me best... and that's in size S... but that just feels wrong somehow?!?!?!
It looks so small, too...???
The 75° seat angle theoretically lets me sit better over the bottom bracket so I don't have to sit all the way forward.
With size M, the reach would be huuuuge....
I'm 1.83 m tall with an 86 cm inseam...
I always ride aggressively when I'm out on this bike... meaning road bike on fast gravel, dirt roads, or forest roads... not so much for bikepacking, trails or leisurely rides... I'm usually riding with a certain amount of intensity
Can anyone offer some expert advice?
Also riding a medium with SL 88 and a bit over 180.
Small would be a challenge with the seatpost, I already switched the stock option for a 400mm one to get the saddle high enough.
Don't underestimate how much more forward you sit with the seat post angle and a zero degree offset seatpost.
As Lotnik says, follow the Mondraker Arid for sizing
As indicated above, this bike is for short stems (70mm on the medium). If you combine that with a short reach handle bar with shallow drops, you save plenty of reach
Quote from: pavlo.k on April 21, 2026, 05:29:22 AM
but longer stem should make it more stable, doesn't it? it slows the steering down since you have a longer handlebar rotation curve.
I really hate how the bike handles and I'm tempted to order a shorter fork from Mondince but I'm not sure that it's going to solve it since I don't know what's causing it
Maybe trail? I don't know anything those things, but when I moved the axle to the rear position, the bike's steering immediately calmed down.
(short fork)
Quote from: v0llhirsch on April 21, 2026, 12:42:55 PM
Also riding a medium with SL 88 and a bit over 180.
Small would be a challenge with the seatpost, I already switched the stock option for a 400mm one to get the saddle high enough.
Don't underestimate how much more forward you sit with the seat post angle and a zero degree offset seatpost.
As Lotnik says, follow the Mondraker Arid for sizing
As indicated above, this bike is for short stems (70mm on the medium). If you combine that with a short reach handle bar with shallow drops, you save plenty of reach
I asked at Mondince and they provide 380 mm seatpost zero offset. Do you confirm it is not enough for you saddle height? Is it around 79 cm?
Quote from: pavlo.k on April 21, 2026, 05:29:22 AM
but longer stem should make it more stable, doesn't it? it slows the steering down since you have a longer handlebar rotation curve.
I really hate how the bike handles and I'm tempted to order a shorter fork from Mondince but I'm not sure that it's going to solve it since I don't know what's causing it
From running mountain bikes a longer stem always seemed to extenuate any flop, probably be cause a shorter one allowed quicker corrections so I didn't notice as much. I very much like how it rides off road, which is what drew me to it it in the first place and it's perfectly fast enough on road, I just wouldn't chose it over a road bike. It fits the gap well between a proper road bike and a trail hardtail for longer rides with a combination of both road and moderate off road.
Quote from: Lotnik on April 21, 2026, 01:04:26 PM
I asked at Mondince and they provide 380 mm seatpost zero offset. Do you confirm it is not enough for you saddle height? Is it around 79 cm?
380?
I haven't measured but to me it looks more like 350.
Saddle is at 775mm, plus minus a bit of error. that was basically the maximum line of the seat post and I wouldn't take any chances, so I switched to a 400mm
My frame finally arrived, and I'm starting the build.
So far looks really good. I've inspected the frame inside with a micro camera, and nothing looks bad.
Can anyone recommend a top tube bag that is screw-mounted, less than 10cm high, and will fit that frame? The front screw is really close to the headtube.
Quote from: Kamool on April 21, 2026, 04:49:30 PM
My frame finally arrived, and I'm starting the build.
So far looks really good. I've inspected the frame inside with a micro camera, and nothing looks bad.
Can anyone recommend a top tube bag that is screw-mounted, less than 10cm high, and will fit that frame? The front screw is really close to the headtube.
If 11cm is still okay:
https://amzn.eu/d/06g6nfYu
(Also available on AliExpress I believe)
I rotated the bag (front is pointing backwards), so that the screws would fit.
Quality wise, I am pretty happy
Quote from: gribs on April 21, 2026, 02:59:25 PM
From running mountain bikes a longer stem always seemed to extenuate any flop, probably be cause a shorter one allowed quicker corrections so I didn't notice as much. I very much like how it rides off road, which is what drew me to it it in the first place and it's perfectly fast enough on road, I just wouldn't chose it over a road bike. It fits the gap well between a proper road bike and a trail hardtail for longer rides with a combination of both road and moderate off road.
I might need to try a shorter stem. Mine is definitely too long for this frame (I use 120 but should probably be on 100mm) and I actually use a positive offset on my seatpost to compensate. I really like the position though.
I don't quite understand how shorter stem would reduce wheel flop or calm the steering down. I my head it will do the opposite as the steering will feel much quicker with a shorter stem
Quote from: Japeke on April 21, 2026, 01:03:31 PM
Maybe trail? I don't know anything those things, but when I moved the axle to the rear position, the bike's steering immediately calmed down.
(short fork)
that was my first though but when I compared the trail to my previous bike and to the short fork version, it's actually 1cm shorter on mine
Quote from: Kamool on April 21, 2026, 04:49:30 PM
My frame finally arrived, and I'm starting the build.
So far looks really good. I've inspected the frame inside with a micro camera, and nothing looks bad.
Can anyone recommend a top tube bag that is screw-mounted, less than 10cm high, and will fit that frame? The front screw is really close to the headtube.
How long did it take to deliver to you? Mine parcel look stuck in Germany for at least week, and didn't moved at all... I thought that producing frameset and then sending it to EU will be a problem ... Not delivering parcel from Germany to Poland :-X
Quote from: pavlo.k on April 20, 2026, 12:13:02 PM
Have a question to the owners of the frameset with a longer fork.
How does the steering feel at low speeds? Mine feels twitchy and it almost feels like a "wheel flop" that you usually get on MTBs with aggressive head tube angles. The best way I can describe it that it feels like the front wheel falls into the corner. It turns way more than you would expect and when you are maneuvering at low speed you are constantly struggling to keep balance.
I first though it was my conti hardpack tires that I hated on my previous bike but I recently mounted a new set of Hutchinson caracals and it feels exactly the same.
I assembled the bike for my friend - he is 180 cm tall and riding size M + long fork, 110 mm stem and 80 mm reach handlebar, 44 mm tires. No problems with tight turns. Maybe try to change flip chip position?
Quote from: Da11as on April 22, 2026, 06:13:31 AM
I assembled the bike for my friend - he is 180 cm tall and riding size M + long fork, 110 mm stem and 80 mm reach handlebar, 44 mm tires. No problems with tight turns. Maybe try to change flip chip position?
I have sp cycle version of the frame, and it does not come with a flip chip unfortunately
Quote from: jacaca2 on April 22, 2026, 03:54:53 AM
How long did it take to deliver to you? Mine parcel look stuck in Germany for at least week, and didn't moved at all... I thought that producing frameset and then sending it to EU will be a problem ... Not delivering parcel from Germany to Poland :-X
My order took a long time in general, because there were some issues with the fork, but Jack was nice about it. It arrived in Germany (DPD-DE, Flight has arrived status) on the 7th of April, then "Customs cleared. Awaiting pick up" on the 9th. I had no update since then until Monday (20 April) when I received a text from DPD that they'll try to deliver the package tomorrow (21 April). So between arrival in Germany and delivery to Poland it took 14 days... It was way slower than the wheels, but I guess we are just unlucky.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on April 22, 2026, 12:39:35 AM
If 11cm is still okay:
https://amzn.eu/d/06g6nfYu
(Also available on AliExpress I believe)
I rotated the bag (front is pointing backwards), so that the screws would fit.
Quality wise, I am pretty happy
Unfortunately, I need something lower than 10cm - I'm planning to do a triathlon with that bike.
bought my frame back in January from Spcycle on Ali.
Only now started to build it.
Noticed a problem with the BB: left side screws in perfectly, right side does not/is stuck after a turn or two. Tried different (T47i) BBs and all dont work on the right side.
Spcycle said I could return the frame back to China but I'd like to fix it here.
Any one of you also encountered this issue before and has a solution?
Try to retap a thread.
Quote from: tmhbrl on April 23, 2026, 02:32:48 AM
bought my frame back in January from Spcycle on Ali.
Only now started to build it.
Noticed a problem with the BB: left side screws in perfectly, right side does not/is stuck after a turn or two. Tried different (T47i) BBs and all dont work on the right side.
Spcycle said I could return the frame back to China but I'd like to fix it here.
Any one of you also encountered this issue before and has a solution?
I have sp cycle frame and thread on mine were pretty rough as well. I've spend probably an hour trying to get the BB in but managed to install it eventually. Try cleaning the threads with a toothbrush
Quote from: Kamool on April 22, 2026, 02:44:45 PM
Unfortunately, I need something lower than 10cm - I'm planning to do a triathlon with that bike.
The smaller version (0,6l) is lower, if that is sufficient.
I guess the premium vendors like tailfinn will have options as well
like 95% done.
Bartape, tubeless sealant and bottle cages are missing.
8500g at the moment.
I definitely need to change the stem... this frame is looooong :D
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on April 23, 2026, 01:35:30 PM
like 95% done.
Bartape, tubeless sealant and bottle cages ares missing.
8500g at the moment.
I definately need to change the stem... this frame is looooong :D
Tell is more about your spec.
I'm looking to build up a kind of do-it-all-bike. Plan is to have two wheelsets, one for gravel and one with bigger road slicks at maybe 35-40mm for group rides.
I've got the lanky build with long arms and legs at 189 cm with 93 inseam, so the FM316 is pretty low stack, FM326 may be kind of weird with road tires because of the long fork. FM336 seems to me to have the best allroad geometry, but 47mm clearance is annoying. Maybe i should just get the gr201 but the long chainstays are also a compromise. Probably cant really do this build without compromises tho. Think i've got paralysis by analysis.
Have any of you tried the 316/326 with road tires?
Quote from: Lotnik on April 23, 2026, 01:44:26 PM
Tell is more about your spec.
Some parts were avaiable and used, lots of ali stuff
Frame: Mondince FM326 L
Stem: Zipp Sprint SL 100 mm (going to replace it by 70-80 mm stem)
Handlebar: ZNIINO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006590376773.html (probably also going to replaced with integrated)
Wheelset: Tangoola XPLR 40 mm, thanks @matter
Tyres: Conti Terra Hardpack 50 mm
Chainring: Goldix https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010482747081.html
Crankset: Evosid https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
BB: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005011887257449.html
Chainguide: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005849447792.html
Casette: Sram xx1 10-50 used, from mtb
Derailleur: Sram GX AXS 12x, used, mtb
STI: Sram Force d1, found a cheap offer and im ok with the ergonomics
Discs: SRAM Centerline XR 160 mm, also got them for good money
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on April 25, 2026, 01:48:41 AM
Some parts were avaiable and used, lots of ali stuff
Frame: Mondince FM326 L
Stem: Zipp Sprint SL 100 mm (going to replace it by 70-80 mm stem)
Handlebar: ZNIINO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006590376773.html (probably also going to replaced with integrated)
Wheelset: Tangoola XPLR 40 mm, thanks @matter
Tyres: Conti Terra Hardpack 50 mm
Chainring: Goldix https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010482747081.html
Crankset: Evosid https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
BB: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005011887257449.html
Chainguide: ZTTO https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005849447792.html
Casette: Sram xx1 10-50 used, from mtb
Derailleur: Sram GX AXS 12x, used, mtb
STI: Sram Force d1, found a cheap offer and im ok with the ergonomics
Discs: SRAM Centerline XR 160 mm, also got them for good money
You have a picture?
Quote from: Zrader on April 25, 2026, 09:13:51 AM
You have a picture?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg109022.html#msg109022
I'm also waiting for my frame, but the information hasn't been updated for a while :/
(//)
I was in the same situation last week – updates were actually showing up faster on the Takesend website.
Here's the link (it's in Mandarin, so just use your browser's translation): http://k5.takesend.com:8180/WebTrack (http://k5.takesend.com:8180/WebTrack)
So yeah, build is finished, I'll design stickers in a few days and I hope it'll look awesome.
I previously asked about toptube bag and ordered rhinowalk. It fits perfectly with 4mm space to headset.
Quote from: Kamool on April 30, 2026, 11:01:05 AM
So yeah, build is finished, I'll design stickers in a few days and I hope it'll look awesome.
I previously asked about toptube bag and ordered rhinowalk. It fits perfectly with 4mm space to headset.
Very cool color scheme.
How did you specify it, did you send over a picture or asked what is possible?
Quote from: v0llhirsch on May 04, 2026, 12:23:15 AM
Very cool color scheme.
How did you specify it, did you send over a picture or asked what is possible?
At first, we had a discussion about what effects and colors they had available, then I created a design and specified what should be where, and in the end, they did that. I recall Jack saying that everything is possible with the design ;D
Quote from: Kamool on May 04, 2026, 06:44:30 AM
At first, we had a discussion about what effects and colors they had available, then I created a design and specified what should be where, and in the end, they did that. I recall Jack saying that everything is possible with the design ;D
Well, if anyone got an idea on how I can convince my wife about some extra bikes because of custom design, I am all open for suggestions 🤣
Quote from: Kamool on April 30, 2026, 11:01:05 AM
So yeah, build is finished, I'll design stickers in a few days and I hope it'll look awesome.
I previously asked about toptube bag and ordered rhinowalk. It fits perfectly with 4mm space to headset.
Are those the xplr rims? if so how do you like them
Quote from: Unknownftp on May 04, 2026, 01:57:23 PM
Are those the xplr rims? if so how do you like them
Yes, but I've done only 40kms on that. So far so good, the rims look good, tire installation was really easy for both sets (I also have 31mm external for road tires), but I'll tell more after riding them for a bit.
Quote from: Svurre on February 07, 2026, 04:06:31 AM
My build is finally finished. This is the first time I build a bike on my own and most of the time has been spent waiting for different parts that I forgot to order... ::)
Frame
Mondince FM326
Size Medium
Fork without rivets
Painted in Pantone 5535 C
Drivetrain
SRAM Rival XPLR E1 derailleur
SRAM Rival XPLR XG-1351 cassette
SRAM Rival E1 chain
SRAM Rival Dub Wide crankset (170 mm)
Garbaruk 46T chainring
SRAM T47 bottom bracket
Brakes
SRAM Apex AXS shifters
SRAM Apex calipers
SRAM Paceline X rotors (160 mm)
Wheels
Elitewheels Gravel Aero+
Pirelli Cinturato 50 mm (actual width 53-54 mm)
Cockpit
Sixpack Gravel ICR stem (70 mm)
Sixpack Gravel stem out front mount
Acros headset
PRO Discover 20 alloy handlebar (420 mm)
Seating
Mondince standard seatpost
Fizik Terra Argo X3 saddle
"Which Acros headset are you using?"
I have a problem with my Mondince FM326, I'm leaving for a bike holiday in 2 weeks and was trying to remove my derailleur (SRAM Force XPLR) the screw was stuck and when I applied pressure a little part in the back of the frame snapped off. If I've had the time I would order a new frame but I am looking to repair it myself. I've included some photos do any of you guys think it is possible or should I just buy a new frame locally? And does someone have a good guide for repairing bits like thes or does it work the same as a cracked tube?
I think if I sand both pieces a little bit and then put some carbon fiber in between an glue them together with some carbon fiber around it should work.
Any tips/tricks and suggestions are welcome.
Regards Cedric
If you have a carbon repair specialist near you that can accommodate your time constraints, that would be ideal.
Failing that, I don't think you have anything to lose by attempting a home repair (other than time) - I'd try a product like Marston-Domsel (MD) Megabond 2000.
- You can fill the shallower gaps with the epoxy.
- Bond the big piece to the frame with the epoxy; wrap it with adhesive tape for curing (but don't wrap it too tightly, you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy). I wouldn't layer any carbon fiber material between the frame and the big piece.
- Layer some carbon fiber material around the area as you suggest.
- Leave yourself enough time for a few test rides once the repair is completed.
As a back-up plan, start researching a new local frame, or see whether maybe you can rent something where your holiday is?
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition
Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days
Quote from: Horatius on May 07, 2026, 12:22:59 AM
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition
Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days
I received same info today. I'm moving my order to the 336 frame. Next two weeks of waiting :(
Quote from: Chiyou on May 06, 2026, 11:12:54 AM
If you have a carbon repair specialist near you that can accommodate your time constraints, that would be ideal.
Failing that, I don't think you have anything to lose by attempting a home repair (other than time) - I'd try a product like Marston-Domsel (MD) Megabond 2000.
- You can fill the shallower gaps with the epoxy.
- Bond the big piece to the frame with the epoxy; wrap it with adhesive tape for curing (but don't wrap it too tightly, you don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy). I wouldn't layer any carbon fiber material between the frame and the big piece.
- Layer some carbon fiber material around the area as you suggest.
- Leave yourself enough time for a few test rides once the repair is completed.
As a back-up plan, start researching a new local frame, or see whether maybe you can rent something where your holiday is?
Thanks for the info, one of my local carbon repair guys responded and he wil try to fix it.
Quote from: Horatius on May 07, 2026, 12:22:59 AM
I ordered the FM326 with flipchip, Jack just contacted me that there are issues with the fork and are offering the old fork without the flipchip.
This is what was wrong according to Jack: The hub contact the aluminum part only. Did not contact the fork leg. So the fork leg may move during riding under some condition
Edit: apparently they have a fix ready in 25 days
I'm glad I have the non flip-chip fork :-)
I have no idea why these flip chips are popular. Only a tiny % of people will really use it. I'd say, pick one offset, and go with it.
I finally got my frame.
Quote from: AltecasLT on May 07, 2026, 12:11:04 PM
I finally got my frame.
Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?
Quote from: Lotnik on May 07, 2026, 12:24:03 PM
Did you already contact Mondice in case of faulty fork? Will they replace it?
They wrote to me first this morning. When I asked what was wrong with the fork they said that "the old fork is good, but the fork leg may move during turning.
We will update it. No customer complaints about this. You can use the current fork. No quality issues."
I don't know what to do in this situation now. :-X
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!
Quote from: Horatius on May 08, 2026, 02:47:18 AM
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!
With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.
Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.
Quote from: Horatius on May 08, 2026, 02:47:18 AM
Anyone knows if the clearance on the FM326 is affected by a front derailleur? I asked Jack and he says no, but I doubt that so if anyone has tried I would like to know!
I run Terra Trails 45mm(measured) with SRAM Force AXS D1 FD with road chainline. 4-5mm gap to the FD battery.
Quote from: emilioea on May 08, 2026, 03:01:39 AM
With GRX cranks and mechanical front derailleur it is fine with 50 mm tires.
Road cranks and FD sit 2.5 mm closer, which should also be fine, but I'd say on the limit. Electronic FD are bulkier, so it may be tight, but I haven't tested it.
I'm using a 105 12spd mechanical mech with a Grx600 crankset and there's no problem using 50mm tyres (53mm measured). The mech doesn't actually stick out behind the chainstays.
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack's incredible support and responsiveness.
Took me about two days to fully build the bike and start riding it – already knocked out roughly 700 km so far!
Build Specs
Part | Spec |
Frameset | FM316 – Size S |
Wheelset | Zipp 303 Firecrest |
Tires | Pathfinder 45 |
Stem | Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount |
Handlebar | ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42 |
Saddle | Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm |
Brake Levers + Calipers | RX820 + BR820 |
Crankset | Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm |
Rear Derailleur | RD-RX822 SGS |
Cassette | XT M8100 10-45T |
Chain | KMC X12 |
Disc Rotors | Shimano RT-CL900 160mm |
Chainring | Passquest 48T plain w/ covers |
Bottom Bracket | TOKEN T47 V24 85.5 |
Pedals | Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL |
Bar Tape | Ergon BT Gravel |
Bottle Cages | Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5 |
Full build cost was around €2800 (±$3.3K), excluding pedals which I already owned.
Weight is around 8.6 kg including pedals, bottle cages, and the Garmin mount, which I think is pretty solid considering the cockpit isn't integrated and the Deda Vinci stem is actually quite heavy (~350g with the Garmin mount adapter).
Frame color is black pearl / white pearl with a gloss finish, and I'm honestly really impressed with how it looks in person. The only minor downside so far is the quality of the stock bolts, which isn't amazing. I already ordered a full set of Ti bolts from Wanyifa that should arrive later this week.
This is my second bike alongside an S-Works SL8 (size 54). Stack and reach are surprisingly close between both bikes, and the handling feels very similar as well, so adaptation was pretty much immediate.
A few people I ride with asked me why I went with GRX mechanical instead of Di2 or SRAM Force. I was actually inspired by Zach Calton, a US pro mountain/gravel racer, who praised the GRX 12-speed mechanical groupset quite a lot. According to him, shifting performance is flawless, the setup is lighter than GRX Di2, and the clutch mechanism does a really good job at limiting chain and derailleur vibrations on rough terrain – all of that at a fraction of the GRX Di2 price.
I fully integrated the shifting cables through the stem and handlebar, and honestly the shifting performance has been excellent. It's reliable and nearly as fast as an electronic groupset. Considering the price point, I'm extremely happy with it.
So far the only part I'm a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.
Will share more updates after a few longer rides!
Quote from: www on May 08, 2026, 10:02:27 AM
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack's incredible support and responsiveness.
Took me about two days to fully build the bike and start riding it – already knocked out roughly 700 km so far!
Build Specs
Part | Spec |
Frameset | FM316 – Size S |
Wheelset | Zipp 303 Firecrest |
Tires | Pathfinder 45 |
Stem | Deda Vinci 110mm + Garmin Mount |
Handlebar | ENVE AERO IN-Route 37/42 |
Saddle | Prologo Scratch M5 PAS Nack 137mm |
Brake Levers + Calipers | RX820 + BR820 |
Crankset | Dura-Ace FC-R9200 165mm |
Rear Derailleur | RD-RX822 SGS |
Cassette | XT M8100 10-45T |
Chain | KMC X12 |
Disc Rotors | Shimano RT-CL900 160mm |
Chainring | Passquest 48T plain w/ covers |
Bottom Bracket | TOKEN T47 V24 85.5 |
Pedals | Dura-Ace PD-R9100 SPD-SL |
Bar Tape | Ergon BT Gravel |
Bottle Cages | Elite Leggero Carbon 2.5 |
Full build cost was around €2800 (±$3.3K), excluding pedals which I already owned.
Weight is around 8.6 kg including pedals, bottle cages, and the Garmin mount, which I think is pretty solid considering the cockpit isn't integrated and the Deda Vinci stem is actually quite heavy (~350g with the Garmin mount adapter).
Frame color is black pearl / white pearl with a gloss finish, and I'm honestly really impressed with how it looks in person. The only minor downside so far is the quality of the stock bolts, which isn't amazing. I already ordered a full set of Ti bolts from Wanyifa that should arrive later this week.
This is my second bike alongside an S-Works SL8 (size 54). Stack and reach are surprisingly close between both bikes, and the handling feels very similar as well, so adaptation was pretty much immediate.
A few people I ride with asked me why I went with GRX mechanical instead of Di2 or SRAM Force. I was actually inspired by Zach Calton, a US pro mountain/gravel racer, who praised the GRX 12-speed mechanical groupset quite a lot. According to him, shifting performance is flawless, the setup is lighter than GRX Di2, and the clutch mechanism does a really good job at limiting chain and derailleur vibrations on rough terrain – all of that at a fraction of the GRX Di2 price.
I fully integrated the shifting cables through the stem and handlebar, and honestly the shifting performance has been excellent. It's reliable and nearly as fast as an electronic groupset. Considering the price point, I'm extremely happy with it.
So far the only part I'm a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.
Will share more updates after a few longer rides!
What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?
Quote from: AltecasLT on May 08, 2026, 02:22:04 PM
What size rotors are you running? And was an adapter needed for the rear brake?
Both rotors are 160mm. And yes, an adapter was needed for the rear brake – I used the Shimano SM-MA-R160 D/D adapter.
Quote from: www on May 08, 2026, 10:02:27 AM
Received my FM316 frameset around two weeks ago, and the whole ordering process was an absolute breeze thanks to Jack's incredible support and responsiveness.
So far the only part I'm a bit unsure about are the Pathfinder 45s – they feel a bit slippery on Cat 1 gravel and especially sketchy once the ground gets wet. Might swap them sooner than expected.
Will share more updates after a few longer rides!
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575
If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01
Quote from: v0llhirsch on May 09, 2026, 03:05:09 AM
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575
If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01
I'm running both. G-One RX 50 mm at the front and R 50 mm at the rear. I'm very happy with them so far. I use a bit less pressure, around 1.4 bar. They roll very well and with good grip.
Quote from: v0llhirsch on May 09, 2026, 03:05:09 AM
Very nice, reminds a bit of the Colnago color pattern.
FWIW, on tires: I tried the Schwalbe RX Pro (in 50mm) for the FM326 and they have been a blast so far.
They have been on the bike since January, so they have seen everything from snow to deep mud and now the dried out paths.
I am riding them with about 1.7 bar in a tubeless setup, no puncture so far and no slipping.
RX Pro: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-RX-PRO-11654575
If that's too "offrad" for you, the R PRO is potentially a fit: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/Schwalbe-G-One-R-PRO-11654240.01
Quote from: emilioea on May 09, 2026, 05:17:43 AM
I'm running both. G-One RX 50 mm at the front and R 50 mm at the rear. I'm very happy with them so far. I use a bit less pressure, around 1.4 bar. They roll very well and with good grip.
Thanks for the input guys, these were actually the exact tires I had in mind for my next upgrade. I'm thinking about running a G-One R Pro 50 mm at the front and a semi-slick RS Pro 50 mm at the rear for minimum rolling resistance & maximum speed.
Hopefully that setup will finally solve the grip issue while still keeping the bike fast rolling!
I bought the Mondince FM316 last fall and I've been very impressed with it. The geometry is spot on for me, I love the longer reach and steeper seattube. I now have it set up with a slammed 130mm -17 stem to get the reach even longer, and I use the Ascent Aeroo Road handlebars to get a really nice and comfortable aero position. The back end seems more comfortable than the Tideace Noah that I had before. My only issue honestly is the tyre clearance – I've been using Tufo Thundero 48mm's with 25IW wheels, and I don't really feel comfortable going any wider on the back. Maybe 50mm's could work, but I dunno. I don't think I would be comfortable using 2.1inch TB's on this bike. I don't think I _need_ any wider than 48mm, but having that option for some terrain would be great!
Quote from: Buffon_bj on May 11, 2026, 05:36:27 AM
I bought the Mondince FM316 last fall and I've been very impressed with it. The geometry is spot on for me, I love the longer reach and steeper seattube. I now have it set up with a slammed 130mm -17 stem to get the reach even longer, and I use the Ascent Aeroo Road handlebars to get a really nice and comfortable aero position. The back end seems more comfortable than the Tideace Noah that I had before. My only issue honestly is the tyre clearance – I've been using Tufo Thundero 48mm's with 25IW wheels, and I don't really feel comfortable going any wider on the back. Maybe 50mm's could work, but I dunno. I don't think I would be comfortable using 2.1inch TB's on this bike. I don't think I _need_ any wider than 48mm, but having that option for some terrain would be great!
Oooo, let's have a photo 8)
I keep thinking about a pair of Aero bars!
Here's a couple photos from my bike basement! Still finalizing the fit so no bar tape at the moment.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on March 27, 2026, 03:22:18 AM
Hey folks
Has anyone used this on the road with road tyres and would give some feedback please.
Thanks!
I just purchased the frameset today for this reason only to be used on the road because of the long front center , long reach, steep Sta (similar to Noah 3.0),threaded bb, and not insane stack or stand over. This frameset solves all of these issues for me. I can let you know how it rides once received if interested, I did ask for all the rivets minus the ones for the water bottles to be removed as I would not be using them ever.
Quote from: n1825 on May 11, 2026, 10:08:25 PM
I just purchased the frameset today for this reason only to be used on the road because of the long front center , long reach, steep Sta (similar to Noah 3.0),threaded bb, and not insane stack or stand over. This frameset solves all of these issues for me. I can let you know how it rides once received if interested, I did ask for all the rivets minus the ones for the water bottles to be removed as I would not be using them ever.
Would be interested in your feedback.
We can compare notes as have one coming too 8)
Quote from: n1825 on May 11, 2026, 10:08:25 PM
I just purchased the frameset today for this reason only to be used on the road because of the long front center , long reach, steep Sta (similar to Noah 3.0),threaded bb, and not insane stack or stand over. This frameset solves all of these issues for me. I can let you know how it rides once received if interested, I did ask for all the rivets minus the ones for the water bottles to be removed as I would not be using them ever.
316/326 or 336?
Has anyone tried cutting out the internal storage walls? The storage space is too small and collects water, so I'm thinking about getting rid of the walls, but I don't really have any idea how to do it cleanly.
Quote from: pavlo.k on May 12, 2026, 02:56:39 AM
Has anyone tried cutting out the internal storage walls? The storage space is too small and collects water, so I'm thinking about getting rid of the walls, but I don't really have any idea how to do it cleanly.
thinking same
planned with oscillating saw, then sanding
I am about to order the FM236. Still puzzling about the size.
The at 184cm tall I am right in the L size but everything says I should get the M, which closely matches my Cannondale Synapse 2020. Having said that, I think the slacker head tube and steeper seat tube will make the L better in the end. Any of your experiences with this frame's sizing greatly appreciated.
Anyway, this thread has been very helpful and I look forward to sharing my build!
Quote from: SvenR on May 13, 2026, 10:02:36 AM
I am about to order the FM236. Still puzzling about the size.
The at 184cm tall I am right in the L size but everything says I should get the M, which closely matches my Cannondale Synapse 2020. Having said that, I think the slacker head tube and steeper seat tube will make the L better in the end. Any of your experiences with this frame's sizing greatly appreciated.
Anyway, this thread has been very helpful and I look forward to sharing my build!
same height and very happy with L size
seat height 78cm
stem in the range 80-90mm (as intended for this geo)
Thank you @rdc. Appreciate this!
Quote from: AltecasLT on May 06, 2026, 04:36:37 AM
"Which Acros headset are you using?"
You can use the lower bearing that is supplied from Mondince, but for the top one you need a bearing with 42 mm inner diameter to mount the compression ring needed for the Sixpack ICR stem.
https://acros-components.com/en/detail/78a5123474f944d1a4ac1988b2a86817
https://acros-components.com/en/detail/aea3f40c24184e6493881a50b6e1140e
First gravell race done and +1500km ridden. Very good. The geometry feels safe in fast speed and on poor surfaces.
25id and 2.1" thunderburt. Have to check if there are any marks from the tire hitting the chainstay.
Fm316, M-size. 120mm stem. 178cm. Feels a little short, but is stable to handle.
Long reach geo is WINNER!
Quote from: Japeke on May 18, 2026, 04:01:33 AM
First gravell race done and +1500km ridden. Very good. The geometry feels safe in fast speed and on poor surfaces.
25id and 2.1" thunderburt. Have to check if there are any marks from the tire hitting the chainstay.
Fm316, M-size. 120mm stem. 178cm. Feels a little short, but is stable to handle.
Long reach geo is WINNER!
Do you have any bike to compare it to? I am on the verge between this and some FS CX bike. Having cyclocross bike with 45mm tires in the past, it is too twitchy and rigid to the type of gravel riding I was doing...
Niner rlt rdo9 2017. Small size.
Now i have +50mm reach on frame...
I just move the saddle forward and keep the stem about the same as the old one.
75deg saddle angle is what you need.
There are small marks on the chainstay. Very muddy condition. I just put some tape there.
2.1" thunderburt and 25id is max.
Does anyone have pictures of the frame in a size xs? Contemplating buying one, but im afraid the top tube area will look weird in the small size.
Wanted a fast, lightweight daily driver with flat bar ergonomics and MTB shifting. Nothing like that exists off the shelf at a sane price, so I built it.
Why Flatbar on an XL frame?
Swap a drop bar for a flat bar and you lose ~80mm of effective reach — the hoods just aren't there anymore. To compensate, I went one (massive) size up to XL and paired it with a 130mm stem. The result matches my drop bar bike's reach almost exactly: same aggressive, stretched position, but with upright sightlines and the ability to run a full Shimano XT groupset off the MTB shelf for a fraction of GRX pricing.
The build:
Frame & Cockpit
Mondince FM316 XL (wanted purple, but got midnight-blue - ok, i´m fine with it haha)
Carbon rigid fork (just clearcoat)
Toseek Carbon Flatbar — 660mm
Kalloy Uno stem 130mm
Kactus Tech Ceramic T47 BB
Wheels & Tyres:
Elite Wheels Gravel Pro Carbon — 24mm inner width, swap to MicroSpline freehub
Tufo Thundero HD 44mm Tyres - love them!
Drivetrain:
SRAM Rival E1 Wide crankset — 165mm (cheaper than GRX)
Alugear Oval 42T chainring — 2mm offset (chains the chainline to 49.5mm for the 142mm rear axle)
Shimano Deore XT 12-speed — shifter, derailleur, 10-51T cassette (crazy cheap! 180€ total + 3 XT chains waxed)
Brakes:
Shimano XT M8100 levers + Flatmount calipers (for 120€ total)
180mm front / 160mm rear
Total weight: ~9.1kg with pedals, mounts, everything / Price: ~1800€ in germany
Happy to go deep on the chainline math or the geometry sizing logic if anyone's interested. Attatched a pic in comparsion with Tideace GV201 size 54.
some feedback to the evosid road bike crankset: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
During my trip through the Netherlands I recogized a creaking of hell... first I thought it was the ZTTO BB (again) as the first bearing went down pretty fast.
But, no.
After serveral bearing changes and cup install and removal on the camp ground I my desperation grew.
In the end it was the crankset, particularry the pressfit from axle to crankarm.
Luckily I got some loctite with me and gave it a try and gave some drops from the axle side into the pressfit. Well, the loctite came out completly on the outside and there I knew...
Since then, totally silent even 500km later.
So if someboy is considering the getting the crankset, I would suggest to do it from start with high strength loctite.
Got mine built.
What a lovely bike, seriously impressed 8)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130801&mode=view)
Set up for road with a pair of Mondince fm066 forks and 35mm gp5k on the back.
Comfortable and fast, highly recommended.
Still playing with bars and stem so currently unfinished, but you get the idea.
Looks really nice-long and low.
Is that the 316? I get confused between model that don't have much to differentiate themn other than cargo bag volume. You had to spec the fork seperately?
Thanks.
Yup, 316
Asked for the road forks as an extra, so do have a pair of the gravel forks too.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on May 26, 2026, 07:21:08 AM
Thanks.
Yup, 316
Asked for the road forks as an extra, so do have a pair of the gravel forks too.
Nice build!
Also interested in those bars. In the WW thread, you said those are WX-R Aluminium Track Bars.
In some pictures, they look as if they have a very long reach if mounted like this. Could you maybe post a top view of those handlebars and measure the effective reach from the top of the hoods to where your forearms rest on the tops?
Always looking for cheapish handlebars with long reach.
Thanks very much!
Had another spin today and it's a great bike. Smooth and fast.
Yup, Worx bars. I reckon the reach is somewhere in the region of 110 to 115 mm like this, they are really long!
Sorry am currently trying another set of bars, but can tell you they are approx 170mm from brake pivot pin on a pair of Shimano hydraulic brifters. They are only 280mm wide at the tops though.
Hope that helps some :)
Anyone got an advice for a fitting frame bag?
Quote from: Er7ik on May 22, 2026, 04:13:34 AM
Wanted a fast, lightweight daily driver with flat bar ergonomics and MTB shifting. Nothing like that exists off the shelf at a sane price, so I built it.
Why Flatbar on an XL frame?
Swap a drop bar for a flat bar and you lose ~80mm of effective reach — the hoods just aren't there anymore. To compensate, I went one (massive) size up to XL and paired it with a 130mm stem. The result matches my drop bar bike's reach almost exactly: same aggressive, stretched position, but with upright sightlines and the ability to run a full Shimano XT groupset off the MTB shelf for a fraction of GRX pricing.
The build:
Frame & Cockpit
Mondince FM316 XL (wanted purple, but got midnight-blue - ok, i´m fine with it haha)
Carbon rigid fork (just clearcoat)
Toseek Carbon Flatbar — 660mm
Kalloy Uno stem 130mm
Kactus Tech Ceramic T47 BB
Wheels & Tyres:
Elite Wheels Gravel Pro Carbon — 24mm inner width, swap to MicroSpline freehub
Tufo Thundero HD 44mm Tyres - love them!
Drivetrain:
SRAM Rival E1 Wide crankset — 165mm (cheaper than GRX)
Alugear Oval 42T chainring — 2mm offset (chains the chainline to 49.5mm for the 142mm rear axle)
Shimano Deore XT 12-speed — shifter, derailleur, 10-51T cassette (crazy cheap! 180€ total + 3 XT chains waxed)
Brakes:
Shimano XT M8100 levers + Flatmount calipers (for 120€ total)
180mm front / 160mm rear
Total weight: ~9.1kg with pedals, mounts, everything / Price: ~1800€ in germany
Happy to go deep on the chainline math or the geometry sizing logic if anyone's interested. Attatched a pic in comparsion with Tideace GV201 size 54.
What frame is the green bike behind?
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on May 26, 2026, 12:01:50 AM
some feedback to the evosid road bike crankset: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010253166897.html
During my trip through the Netherlands I recogized a creaking of hell... first I thought it was the ZTTO BB (again) as the first bearing went down pretty fast.
But, no.
After serveral bearing changes and cup install and removal on the camp ground I my desperation grew.
In the end it was the crankset, particularry the pressfit from axle to crankarm.
Luckily I got some loctite with me and gave it a try and gave some drops from the axle side into the pressfit. Well, the loctite came out completly on the outside and there I knew...
Since then, totally silent even 500km later.
So if someboy is considering the getting the crankset, I would suggest to do it from start with high strength loctite.
I got an Evosid crankset as well.
It looked nice and all but after only a couple of rides the non drive press fit of the axle developed play and I had to take it out. There were also some markings in the aluminium axle itself.
Will not get another one of those after having returned them.
Quote from: Unsworn5836 on May 27, 2026, 01:51:58 PM
Anyone got an advice for a fitting frame bag?
Full length?
My specialized 3l bag fits very well into my medium frame
https://www.specialized.com/de/de/specializedfj%C3%A4llr%C3%A4ven-frame-bag/p/220880?color=362061-220880
Quote from: v0llhirsch on May 28, 2026, 08:50:17 AM
Full length?
My specialized 3l bag fits very well into my medium frame
https://www.specialized.com/de/de/specializedfj%C3%A4llr%C3%A4ven-frame-bag/p/220880?color=362061-220880
Ah yes, but hard to find. The L bag should fit nicely in an L frame.
Got a Pro gravel frame bag, but it is too short to fit in the front triangle or straps in the back is to short.
Quote from: Pistonbroke on May 26, 2026, 03:02:49 AM
Got mine built.
What a lovely bike, seriously impressed 8)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130801&mode=view)
Set up for road with a pair of Mondince fm066 forks and 35mm gp5k on the back.
Comfortable and fast, highly recommended.
Still playing with bars and stem so currently unfinished, but you get the idea.
Still waiting on my frame, what do you think the max chainring is on 1x and 2x? Also is that a different fork to what they had for the frame originally?
I think chainrings have been covered previously in the thread... I'm not a watt monster so don't run large rings.
Yes, the fork is from a Mondince road bike with 35mm clearance.
Gotta say it again, the bike is absolutely wonderful!
Yup, BB drop is 93 or 94mm by design
Fork is Mondince fm066
I'm using it for road not gravel as was looking for long, low and steep seat angle. This nails it for me.
So now as it seems this will be the only frame with progressive geometry in a foreseeable future I don't see any reason to hesitate on ordering FM316. Does anyone tried to mount Thunder Burts on a widish rim (32 IW)? I've seen the picture of the pink FM316 (looks sick! I also want acid pink bike!) bike with TBs on Zipps, but would it still fit into the rear with reasonable clearance (3-4 mm)?
Quote from: pavlo.k on April 22, 2026, 01:27:51 AM
I might need to try a shorter stem. Mine is definitely too long for this frame (I use 120 but should probably be on 100mm) and I actually use a positive offset on my seatpost to compensate. I really like the position though.
I don't quite understand how shorter stem would reduce wheel flop or calm the steering down. I my head it will do the opposite as the steering will feel much quicker with a shorter stem
Did you try to swap the stem already? I've been deciding between short and long fork and want to retain long and tall aero position without compromising handling off road (with 120 stem) and 420 fork seems like a good idea, but after your comment I am a bit hesitant.
Frame is out of the paint shop, Jack sent me a video earlier. Quite happy how it turned out.
Been a long time lurker on this topic.. Here goes my build. Ridden with it for a few months now, pretty happy with it!
Anyone got specs or pics of the axle heads required for the fm326? I have the dimensions.
Specifically, I am trying to see whether they are conical or flat?
Waiting for my frame to arrive and wanting to use DT Swiss Plug-in thru axles.
Quote from: SvenR on June 13, 2026, 02:06:24 PM
Anyone got specs or pics of the axle heads required for the fm326? I have the dimensions.
Specifically, I am trying to see whether they are conical or flat?
Waiting for my frame to arrive and wanting to use DT Swiss Plug-in thru axles.
It is flat
Thank you very @v0llhirsch !
Hi everyone, i'm currently in discussion with Jack from Mondince for the aero gravel frame FM316. After a bit of negotiating, he sent me a proforma invoice for 800 € flat, all-inclusive (shipping to France included).
Here is the detailed breakdown of the package:
Frameset : FM316 Frame + Fork (Size XS)
Cockpit : 400x90mm integrated carbon handlebar/stem
Accessories : Carbon seatpost, thru-axles, and headset
Paint : Custom "Crystal/Ice FX" Glossy finish (Pantone 874C - Copper/Gold marbling effect)
Shipping : DPD/XDB to France included.
Sizing & Fit Question:
I am currently leaning towards the Size XS with the 400x90mm cockpit, but I want to make sure I am making the right call. Here are my measurements:
Height: 170 cm
Inseam: 78 cm
Wingspan: 158 cm
Given my shorter wingspan, I am terrified of being too stretched out on a gravel bike. Do you think the XS is the perfect fit to keep a balanced position, or should I consider a different setup?
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?
Thanks for your help!
Quote from: kb_79 on June 15, 2026, 10:43:03 AM
Hi everyone, i'm currently in discussion with Jack from Mondince for the aero gravel frame FM316. After a bit of negotiating, he sent me a proforma invoice for 800 € flat, all-inclusive (shipping to France included).
Here is the detailed breakdown of the package:
Frameset : FM316 Frame + Fork (Size XS)
Cockpit : 400x90mm integrated carbon handlebar/stem
Accessories : Carbon seatpost, thru-axles, and headset
Paint : Custom "Crystal/Ice FX" Glossy finish (Pantone 874C - Copper/Gold marbling effect)
Shipping : DPD/XDB to France included.
Sizing & Fit Question:
I am currently leaning towards the Size XS with the 400x90mm cockpit, but I want to make sure I am making the right call. Here are my measurements:
Height: 170 cm
Inseam: 78 cm
Wingspan: 158 cm
Given my shorter wingspan, I am terrified of being too stretched out on a gravel bike. Do you think the XS is the perfect fit to keep a balanced position, or should I consider a different setup?
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?
Thanks for your help!
I would say from a quality perspective, I could not be happier with the bike. Especially when I compare it to 2000+€ frames that would not have been custom painting included. Cockpit included sounds for me like a good price.
FWIW:
With your size, Mondraker would put you on a M frame ( https://mondraker.com/de/de/arid-carbon-rr-sl1752831894 ) which is a S frame for a Mondince. Are you sure you need XS?
In this thread are some links to bike insights and other pages where you can compare the sizing.
The bike is intended for a short stem (size S has 60mm at Mondraker), so with 90mm you are already going long.
Just mind the potential impact when you go too small (toe overlap on the front wheel, running out of seatpost etc,)
Thanks for the heads-up on the Mondraker "Forward Geo" design! I completely missed that, but it makes total sense now.
The main reason I originally leaned toward the XS is my proportions: I'm 170cm with a 78cm inseam, but my wingspan is only 158cm. Having a short torso and short arms, my absolute biggest fear is being way too stretched out on drop bars.
But you're spot on—slapping a 90mm stem on a long-reach frame completely ruins the whole point of that geometry. Plus, dealing with toe-overlap on an XS on tight trails would drive me crazy.
If I follow your advice and step up to a Size S to get decent seatpost extension and front-wheel clearance, but stay with Mondince's 90mm integrated cockpit, the total reach is going to be way too long for my short arms.
Should I just ditch Mondince's integrated bar altogether, order the Size S frame, and source a separate 60mm or 70mm stem + gravel bars on my own? Or is this specific frame geo just a bad match for someone with my build?
Would love to get your take on this sizing puzzle. Cheers!
Quote from: kb_79 on June 15, 2026, 12:35:55 PM
Thanks for the heads-up on the Mondraker "Forward Geo" design! I completely missed that, but it makes total sense now.
The main reason I originally leaned toward the XS is my proportions: I'm 170cm with a 78cm inseam, but my wingspan is only 158cm. Having a short torso and short arms, my absolute biggest fear is being way too stretched out on drop bars.
But you're spot on—slapping a 90mm stem on a long-reach frame completely ruins the whole point of that geometry. Plus, dealing with toe-overlap on an XS on tight trails would drive me crazy.
If I follow your advice and step up to a Size S to get decent seatpost extension and front-wheel clearance, but stay with Mondince's 90mm integrated cockpit, the total reach is going to be way too long for my short arms.
Should I just ditch Mondince's integrated bar altogether, order the Size S frame, and source a separate 60mm or 70mm stem + gravel bars on my own? Or is this specific frame geo just a bad match for someone with my build?
Would love to get your take on this sizing puzzle. Cheers!
Well, I am about 180cm with 88 cm inseam, so my upper body is shorter as well. I run a M frame in Mondince dimensions, M/L for a Mondraker.
I have a non integrated cockpit as I was skeptical about the reach as well and wanted to adjust the bike to my needs without a lot of hassle. Just keep in mind, that the seatpost angle is very upright and brings you forward a lot.
I am running a 70mm stem with a short reach handlebar (70mm, similar to a PRO PLT Ergo 31,8 mm).
For me, an integrated cockpit is a nice thing if you have certainty about your fit. If unsure, I would go with a classic setup - you can always buy an integrated cockpit later on when you found your optimal setup.
Quote from: kb_79 on June 15, 2026, 10:43:03 AM
Also, how does the 800 € total sound for a custom paint + integrated cockpit deal? Is it a fair price or on the higher side for direct-to-consumer Chinese framesets?
too good to be true if anything? copper marble effect is NOT a cheap paint job, and your price includes handlebars, taxes, shipping? are you sure there is no miscommunication?
where did you get the inspiration from? would love to see a mockup
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).
Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).
Quote from: kb_79 on June 16, 2026, 12:07:47 AM
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).
Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).
I think someone here put the correct measurements into bike insights.
It's somewhere here on this thread in the early pages
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc6,68ebe9f320822b001aabfdc5
Quote from: kb_79 on June 16, 2026, 12:07:47 AM
Quick update! I asked Jack for the official FM316 geometry chart, and the numbers are pretty wild.
You were totally right about the "Forward Geo" inspiration, but looking at the Mondince chart, there is a massive and weird jump between the XS and the S:
Size XS: Reach 374 mm / Stack 559 mm
Size S: Reach 411 mm / Stack 563 mm
For comparison, the original Mondraker Arid only hits a 411 mm reach on their M/L size! A 411 mm reach for a Size S seems absolutely insane, especially for someone with my short wingspan (158 cm).
Do these Mondince numbers look legit to you, or is this a classic case of typos in a Chinese factory geo chart?
Assuming the 374 mm reach for the XS is accurate, it feels like it's the only viable option for my proportions, provided I ditch their 90mm integrated cockpit and run a separate 60/70mm stem instead.
What do you guys think? Am I reading this right? (Chart attached below).
I think you're right going the smallest size. On the S the stack is really huge, that means you will have have a small saddle to handlebar drop.
The stack value on the xs seems not right, the head tube is 25mm smaller than S and stack only 4mm smaller, it's probably more around 540mm than 559.
Quote from: kbernstein on June 16, 2026, 12:02:39 AM
too good to be true if anything? copper marble effect is NOT a cheap paint job, and your price includes handlebars, taxes, shipping? are you sure there is no miscommunication?
where did you get the inspiration from? would love to see a mockup
Here is the inspiration for the paint! I don't have a digital mockup, but I attached a real photo of this exact Copper "Crystal FX" (Ice FX) finish to give you an idea
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Should I change to a 100 or 110mm stem? I feel too cramped in Size S and always keep thinking I need more reach. 174cm tall, 81cm inseam, 182cm wingspan (if that helps). Cheers!
Quote from: mbaku_14 on June 18, 2026, 10:23:12 PM
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Looks great! This is a really well thought out build, I'm curious what your total cost ended up being? Seems like about as good as you can get from a $/performance basis right now.
Quote from: Grailer on June 18, 2026, 10:44:13 PM
Looks great! This is a really well thought out build, I'm curious what your total cost ended up being? Seems like about as good as you can get from a $/performance basis right now.
Just about $1400, I think (converted from local currency). I was mostly deal hunting and slowly purchased each part, so the actual price was around $1500-$1600. Overall, loving the bike ;D
Quote from: mbaku_14 on June 18, 2026, 10:23:12 PM
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Should I change to a 100 or 110mm stem? I feel too cramped in Size S and always keep thinking I need more reach. 174cm tall, 81cm inseam, 182cm wingspan (if that helps). Cheers!
Which evosid crank is that? I can't find this particular one.
Quote from: Lotnik on June 19, 2026, 12:26:22 AM
Which evosid crank is that? I can't find this particular one.
It's this one. Bought mine on a local e-commerce site, tho.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009426277292.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009426277292.html)
A bit of a random question, but one that would really help me out: I have a frame (size M) on order and I slowly but surely getting all the parts together.
For the brakes/shifters I am thinking of getting some GRX ST-RX820 which come in a "J-Kit" version which come with a pre-cut, pre-filled hydraulic brake line - this would be convenient because I don't have the tools for working on brake lines (yet).
Since I am trying to avoid trimming the brake lines, I'd like to make sure to order the right one - so if anyone has any recommendations for brake line length (especially the rear) please share - thanks!
Quote from: speigei on June 19, 2026, 03:20:43 AM
A bit of a random question, but one that would really help me out: I have a frame (size M) on order and I slowly but surely getting all the parts together.
For the brakes/shifters I am thinking of getting some GRX ST-RX820 which come in a "J-Kit" version which come with a pre-cut, pre-filled hydraulic brake line - this would be convenient because I don't have the tools for working on brake lines (yet).
Since I am trying to avoid trimming the brake lines, I'd like to make sure to order the right one - so if anyone has any recommendations for brake line length (especially the rear) please share - thanks!
If i remember correctly there are two options for the rear brake hose. One ultra long for tandems maybe and the other one you should order.
But bear in mind even this break hose is too long. So a cutting tool or super sharp set of pliers should be at hand.
An easy way to get the rough lengh you is to take i.e. a shoestring and work your way from caliper position back to the handlebar.
Quote from: speigei on June 19, 2026, 03:20:43 AM
A bit of a random question, but one that would really help me out: I have a frame (size M) on order and I slowly but surely getting all the parts together.
For the brakes/shifters I am thinking of getting some GRX ST-RX820 which come in a "J-Kit" version which come with a pre-cut, pre-filled hydraulic brake line - this would be convenient because I don't have the tools for working on brake lines (yet).
Since I am trying to avoid trimming the brake lines, I'd like to make sure to order the right one - so if anyone has any recommendations for brake line length (especially the rear) please share - thanks!
I just built my bike up with SRAM force and you have to cut those to make them fit through the frame. The brake line with the olive didnt fit through the frame for me, I do not know about Shimano. To do it nicely you would always want to cut them to length, I never did until yesterday and it was really easy. Bleeding isn't totally necessary for me but I will soon just to be sure. For SRAM everything was included in the box except for hydraulic brake line cutter which I bought of ali.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
QuoteIf i remember correctly there are two options for the rear brake hose. One ultra long for tandems maybe and the other one you should order.
-- The shop I am looking at has them in 50mm increments, from 1400mm all the the way up to 1700mm. Gemini says "On a typical medium/large gravel frame with internal routing, the raw length of the rear brake line usually winds up being between $1350\text{mm}$ and $1500\text{mm}$ from the lever to the caliper." which isn't particularly accurate.
QuoteAn easy way to get the rough lengh you is to take i.e. a shoestring and work your way from caliper position back to the handlebar.
-- Since I haven't received the frame yet that is not really an option :/ I was hoping maybe someone before me had already done so.
QuoteI just built my bike up with SRAM force and you have to cut those to make them fit through the frame. The brake line with the olive didnt fit through the frame for me, I do not know about Shimano.
-- I might be wrong, but I believe this "J-Kit" ("J" standing for Junction, https://tbsbikeparts.com/blogs/blog/shimano-j-kit-brake-system-overview) exists to solve this problem, where both the lever and the hose are bled and sealed, but no olive is inserted yet. But if the process was simple enough, I might just get a longer hose and trim it using a cheap tool - probably good to have anyway.
I ended up giving in too and ordered an FM316 frame. I've already been playing around a bit with my chosen color and AI.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260621/8jjygruy.png) (https://www.directupload.eu)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260621/temp/63betjfs.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9322/63betjfs_jpg.htm)
I've been riding the frame for almost a month now.
I have no complaints whatsoever on build quality or geometry l.
Paints is great,threads were pretty good, same with brake mounts no need on facing.
I did happen to notice that flip chip came undone due to a missing screw? I attached it in the photo but besides that the frame is great at speeds and is really nice handling. Best way to describe it is it is very flowy and nimble.i do plan on going to a 50t but cant find any nice 2x chainrings that are 107bcd besides pass quest but don't really like how they look. Same with stone.
Size M
Hello to all foristas! I come today to share my new Gravel project with Chinese frame.
Choice of the frame: I was between the meinier grl15 and the Spcycle g026. Both around 5000 with taxes and freight. Both weigh 1200g
Characteristics of meinier:
-Clearance 57mm
-435mm from Chainstay
-80mm bbdrop
Advantages of Spcycle
-Clearance 51mm
-425mm of chainstay
75mm bbdrop
Both with more than 620mm in size 54, without toeoverlap for 2.2 tires.
I chose SpCycle. When studying about it, I discovered that geometrically it is identical to the Mondraker Arid, with a front travel fork ready geometry. Aesthetics is similar too, but it is not an identical copy.
This frame is manufactured by mondice in models 326, with Mondraker geometry and 316, with a bizarre geometry (in mathematically incoherent, by the way) thanks to a 395mm fork. Mondice is the factory, Spcycle only resells, this is clear.
After being the topic and the geometries, I had an idea: the 316 is too aggressive, the 326 is quite conservative. Wouldn't it have a middle ground?
Before deciding how to customize the geometry of the frameset, I looked for some references: Crux 5, was the target I chose.
Crux characteristics: 78mm of bbdrop (it's a lot, but with tires between 38 and 56 the height of the central is good. I decided that this was the maximum I could do to "lower" the bike, "my" geometry will be ok from 38 to 51mm.
According to the proportion of ~33% of relationship between a2c and bbdrop, I came to the conclusion that changing the original fork for another 1cm smaller (from 42 to 41) would result in a more aggressive geometry possible respecting the 78mm of bbdrop.
Choice of fork:
They had some options of 41cm in the ali... I opted for the one with clearence for 2.4, 41cm, the largest possible rake to avoid toe overlap and reduce the trail so that, even with long between axles, the steering is very agile.
I bought the Fkg40 from Winowcycle (manufacturer/factory) for 950 with taxes and shipping.
The pieces are on the plane...
Resulting geometry
| SPcycle G026 410/55 || SPcycle G026 || Specialized Crux 5 || Caloi City Tour |
Attribute
Reach | 392.2 | 387 | 388 | 389.4
Stack | 569.4 | 573 | 560 | 592.8
Top Tube (effective) | 549.9 | 550 | 543 | 559.4
Top Tube (current) | - | - | - | 540.3
Seat Tube C-T | 450 | 450 | 473 | 450
Head Angle | 71.05 | 70.5 | 71 | 71
Seat Angle | 74.55 | 74 | 74.5 | 74
Head Tube | 125 | 125 | 125 | 140
Chainstay | 425 | 425 | 425 | 435
Wheelbase | 1040.3 | 1033 | 1026 | 1043.3
Front Center | 627.3 | 620 | 613 | 619.4
BB Drop | 78.1 | 75 | 78 | 75
Fork Rake / Offset | 55 | 45 | 51 | 45
Trail | 65 | 73 | 69 | 71.6
Fork Length (A2C) | 410 | 420 | 401 | 427
Tire Max Width | 51 | 51 | 56 | 51
Weight | 1200 | 1200 | 795 | 1730
I'm updating the news here, most likely I'll still edit this first post...
Finally build my gravel bike with mondince fm326 frame :)
Just ordered an FM316 in XS in the pink 495C pearl that someone posted an AI render of in this thread or another for my wife. Also ordered her a set of elite gravel slr as they have a good delivery time. I'll build it up with parts from my spares so wheeltop gex, exs bars, whatever stem she needs, I've also accumulated a vast supply of elita one seat posts!
I'll set it up as more of a road/all-road with nice big road tyres.
Jack was super helpful and the frame was pretty decently priced imo. I'll be gutted if it gets here before my lightcarbon.
I also ordered the FM316 last week, what is your experience in terms of time between ordering and shipping ? Thank
Received my frame today! 14 days after ordering to Switzerland - quicker than expected.
First inspection seems mostly OK, but I had couple of questions (apologies if they have been answered before):
1. The brake line exit in the fork looks really rough - I am thinking of using a round file to smooth it out, but wanted to check with other first to see if this is something I should discuss with the seller.
2. My frame came with a front derailleur mount, but I will be running 1x. Based on some pictures in this thread, some frames that also don't have a front derailleur have a some sort of replacement cover (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690)), but most don't. To those with the cover: Was it included with your frame? Did you 3D print? Are these available as spares somewhere?
3. So the fork has 4 threads on each leg, but only the top 3 have a screw. I thought this was weird, and that they just forgot the 4th, but no, even on the pics on the listing https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/S4d94c98427dd469dbb1b94f4621a3c8fq.jpg_960x960q75.jpg_.avif (https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/S4d94c98427dd469dbb1b94f4621a3c8fq.jpg_960x960q75.jpg_.avif), the 4th screw is missing ... how does this make sense? But more importantly, does anyone have the specs for these screws - they look a bit cheap and I would like to color match them with the frame color.
Thanks all!
Which frame is this? Looks like FM316 or 326.
Anecdotally, it seems to me that the frames ordered from resellers (not directly from Mondince) have less rigorous QC.
I say this while waiting for me frame to arrive from Mondince direct, hahaha!
Quote from: speigei on June 29, 2026, 03:49:20 PM
2. My frame came with a front derailleur mount, but I will be running 1x. Based on some pictures in this thread, some frames that also don't have a front derailleur have a some sort of replacement cover (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg113690.html#msg113690)), but most don't. To those with the cover: Was it included with your frame? Did you 3D print? Are these available as spares somewhere?
Thanks all!
The cover for 1by has been included in my delivery from Mondince.
I have no idea about 3d printing, but it should work since there is no load on this part ...
What's the real world tire clearance on this frame? Would it fit Schwalbe thunder Burts (~53mm)?
Quote from: Opadeira on July 05, 2026, 06:28:02 AM
What's the real world tire clearance on this frame? Would it fit Schwalbe thunder Burts (~53mm)?
No..
61mm. Max 51mm MW tires with 0,5cm side by side.
Quote from: Dragum on July 05, 2026, 11:44:12 AM
No..
61mm. Max 51mm MW tires with 0,5cm side by side.
At least two bikes posted here have Thunderburts installed, one on ZIPP XPLRs. So it fit, albeit tightly
Quote from: voidptr on August 13, 2025, 07:02:53 AM
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t47_bracket_gravel_bike_frame_fm316.html)
This is the correct link.
https://www.mondincecycle.com/product/2026-aero-design-t47-bracket-gravel-bike-frame-fm316
If anyone is looking for some framebags, I've tested recently Geosmina Large and Topeak Drybag Large in a Large Frame.
Bottles are Tacx.
I'll go with the Topeak as I can fit 2 850 ml bottles in, with Geosmina only 1.
Both bottle cages are on lowest position
I'll add to the frame bags...
Rockbros Apidura type bag on M frame.
Hi again, so my wife's 316 is on its way, but now I've got the bug and want to replace my tideace as I find it a bit too aggressive. I sized down in that frame to a Large, usually I ride xl frames at 188cm.
I'm trying to decide between the large and xl 316. I've attached comparison of my road bike Spcycle r088 XL with 110 stem. (I'm actually replacing that with another frame as it's slightly too aggressive too). I'm using xy Calc but comparing traditional geo with progressive is a little tricky I find. 316 is XL and has a 70mm stem in this.
Quote from: rcwsr on July 13, 2026, 10:17:20 AM
Hi again, so my wife's 316 is on its way, but now I've got the bug and want to replace my tideace as I find it a bit too aggressive. I sized down in that frame to a Large, usually I ride xl frames at 188cm.
I'm trying to decide between the large and xl 316. I've attached comparison of my road bike Spcycle r088 XL with 110 stem. (I'm actually replacing that with another frame as it's slightly too aggressive too). I'm using xy Calc but comparing traditional geo with progressive is a little tricky I find. 316 is XL and has a 70mm stem in this.
At 188cm I would never in my life think about getting a XL or 58cm+ bike and for reference my gravel bike is a Yoeleo G20 in Large with 100mm stem, thats almost too big. I see a LOT of people here get bikes a size too big for them.... no idea why.
Quote from: crazyravr on July 14, 2026, 09:05:06 AM
At 188cm I would never in my life think about getting a XL or 58cm+ bike and for reference my gravel bike is a Yoeleo G20 in Large with 100mm stem, thats almost too big. I see a LOT of people here get bikes a size too big for them.... no idea why.
Interesting! I think based on the Large 316 with a short stem I'd be too crunched up.
Quote from: Da11as on July 05, 2026, 02:28:00 PM
At least two bikes posted here have Thunderburts installed, one on ZIPP XPLRs. So it fit, albeit tightly
I had no clearance problems with Thunderburt 2.1, which measured 51mm mounted on some Elite rims. I am not sure how it would hold up in wet conditions and mud with a lot of clay, but I did not get build-up in wet conditions over "normal" mud.
I have been having problems with brake rub on the front brake. The brake is perfectly aligned at lower tensions on the lower brake caliper bolt, but when increased to 4-5 Nm, it would throw off the alignment and the brake would rub. I could not fix it myself. I finally brought it to my local bike shop and they tried everything, including facing the brake mounts. They are pretty sure that an imperfection in the fork, near the thru axle insert, is causing the problem.
The good news is that Jack was very quick to reply and offered to cover the fork under warranty, even though he has never heard such an issue with their forks (which is reassuring since it does not seem to be a generalized issue).
I am just waiting for them to paint it and ship it over. I am only covering the shipping cost. It's a win in my books!
Quote from: mudfisher on July 15, 2026, 07:25:49 AM
I have been having problems with brake rub on the front brake. The brake is perfectly aligned at lower tensions on the lower brake caliper bolt, but when increased to 4-5 Nm, it would throw off the alignment and the brake would rub. I could not fix it myself. I finally brought it to my local bike shop and they tried everything, including facing the brake mounts. They are pretty sure that an imperfection in the fork, near the thru axle insert, is causing the problem.
The good news is that Jack was very quick to reply and offered to cover the fork under warranty, even though he has never heard such an issue with their forks (which is reassuring since it does not seem to be a generalized issue).
I am just waiting for them to paint it and ship it over. I am only covering the shipping cost. It's a win in my books!
That's honestly really good customer service, comparing it to the posts in SpCycle G028 thread where people have to fight with them over steerer layup quality 😂.
Quote from: crazyravr on July 14, 2026, 09:05:06 AM
At 188cm I would never in my life think about getting a XL or 58cm+ bike and for reference my gravel bike is a Yoeleo G20 in Large with 100mm stem, thats almost too big. I see a LOT of people here get bikes a size too big for them.... no idea why.
I'm 186cm but with very long legs 94.5cm inseam. I have the Yoeleo G21 Altera in size L / 56 and I wish I had gone with a 58 as the stack is much better and wouldn't have so much seat post sticking out. Depends on your overall measurements not just the height.
Also my wingspan is 197cm I'm running a 110mm stem. I would run the same stem on the 58 frame as it's only 3mm more reach.
Quote from: rcwsr on July 14, 2026, 09:34:24 AM
Interesting! I think based on the Large 316 with a short stem I'd be too crunched up.
To be honest I'm not sure the forward/progressive geometry is going to be any good for my quadriceps insertion tendinopathy, so I might actually give this frame a miss. Would love to hear recommendations for more endurance focused geometries than the tideace gv201
If you want more endurance focused geometry then look at the longer forked version, the FM326. Imo it gives a better compromise for proper off road use than most other Chinese frames.
Quote from: gribs on July 16, 2026, 02:09:29 AM
If you want more endurance focused geometry then look at the longer forked version, the FM326. Imo it gives a better compromise for proper off road use than most other Chinese frames.
Jack has offered me a good deal on a 326 with "old 420 fork", were there issues with that fork?
Quote from: mudfisher on July 15, 2026, 07:15:36 AM
I had no clearance problems with Thunderburt 2.1, which measured 51mm mounted on some Elite rims. I am not sure how it would hold up in wet conditions and mud with a lot of clay, but I did not get build-up in wet conditions over "normal" mud.
Still 3 mm of clearance with Thunderburts on Zipp XPLR wheels which have very wide IW. That's a win for me.
Hi on my size S FM316, how much spacer height should I account for before cutting the fork steerer to be on the safe side ?
Quote from: rcwsr on July 16, 2026, 05:19:35 AM
Jack has offered me a good deal on a 326 with "old 420 fork", were there issues with that fork?
It doesn't have the flip chip and I think the tyre clearance might be very slightly less. I ordered mine when it was released so I've got the original fork. It rides how I expected and there's plenty of clearance for a 53mm WAM tyre
Quote from: gribs on July 16, 2026, 09:12:43 AM
It doesn't have the flip chip and I think the tyre clearance might be very slightly less. I ordered mine when it was released so I've got the original fork. It rides how I expected and there's plenty of clearance for a 53mm WAM tyre
Thanks, I placed my order with Jack. Standard off white colour size Large. Will try running a 100mm stem which will match the effective reach of my gv201 just with a load more stack which is what I'm after.
Would you guys trust Mondince to do a quite intricate decal job? I've got some decals I want on the frame, but I'm not sure if I should order a frame without clear coat and do the decals myself. Then have a local shop do the clearcoat after that. What do you guys think?
Quote from: purpsyrup on July 18, 2026, 09:35:19 AM
Would you guys trust Mondince to do a quite intricate decal job? I've got some decals I want on the frame, but I'm not sure if I should order a frame without clear coat and do the decals myself. Then have a local shop do the clearcoat after that. What do you guys think?
DIY vote!
My one comes. Photo with 410/55 winowcycle 60c fork
Quote from: purpsyrup on July 18, 2026, 09:35:19 AM
Would you guys trust Mondince to do a quite intricate decal job? I've got some decals I want on the frame, but I'm not sure if I should order a frame without clear coat and do the decals myself. Then have a local shop do the clearcoat after that. What do you guys think?
They charge quite a price for a decal. Go DIY
Just build up!
Playing with satellite shifters location, so excuse the old bar tape.
R9270 / R8170 mix
Elilee X310 with Sigeyi PM
LB WG55 wheels with Compass Snoquallmie Pass tires.
Quote from: LAN on July 20, 2026, 08:24:19 AM
Just build up!
Playing with satellite shifters location, so excuse the old bar tape.
R9270 / R8170 mix
Elilee X310 with Sigeyi PM
LB WG55 wheels with Compass Snoquallmie Pass tires.
Looks great. Is that the ALI ENVE stem? Which compression ring and bearing did you use?
What paint finish is that? It looks really good.
Quote from: kb_79 on June 16, 2026, 06:20:17 AM
Here is the inspiration for the paint! I don't have a digital mockup, but I attached a real photo of this exact Copper "Crystal FX" (Ice FX) finish to give you an idea
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381) - without integrated handlbar - 765usd to door (EU). So I guess 800eur with handlbar is still a good price :)
Quote from: shokas on July 21, 2026, 10:08:12 AMhttps://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6336.msg105381.html#msg105381) - sans guidon intégré - 765 USD vers la porte (UE). Je suppose donc que 800 euros avec guidon est toujours un bon prix :)
I finally ordered the FM316 in a purple chameleon without the handlebars for 600€
Planning to buy T47 BB with 86,5 shell width. The question is, would it fit in the frame's BB shell? It is specified as 85,5 mm so I guess I probably have to strip a little bit of plastic from the shell?
Just received my wife's xs pink frame just under 2 weeks since it was posted. Paint looks great hard to do it justice in a photo. Paint finishing round the edges isn't amazing (mostly around bolts, but I come to expect this now) but it's still good.
Didn't realise xs didn't have a 2nd bottle cage mount but makes sense there's not much space.
Hi everyone,
I finally completed my custom gravel project and just came back from a very successful 40km shakedown ride. I wanted to share the build details and some feedback on the Mondince FM316 frame.
Here is the full spec list for this Gravel build:
Frame: Mondince FM316-S (Size S)
Groupset: Wheeltop GX Wireless (1x12)
Crankset: Magene PES P515 Power Meter
Cassette & Chain: Shimano SLX 12-speed (10-51)
Wheels: EliteWheels Marvel G36 Carbon
Tires: Tufo Thundero HD 48mm
Rotors: 160mm Front & Rear
Cockpit: UNO HB-FL12 Carbon Handlebar with a 75mm stem (+6°)
Total Weight: 9.1kg
First Ride Impressions:
To give some context, I am a mountain biker at heart, usually riding full-suspension All-Mountain bikes and e-MTBs. This Mondince build is actually my very first experience riding a fully rigid bike with zero suspension! 😅
I have to admit, I was completely surprised by the snappiness and the immediate reactivity of the bike. Coming from heavy, plush mountain bikes, the power transfer here is just insane. The frame is super stiff laterally and feels like an absolute rocket when sprinting out of the saddle.
Despite having no suspension, the clearance for the 48mm Tufo tires acts as a great cushion, making it a real tank on rough trails, while the carbon EliteWheels keep it incredibly lively.
The Wheeltop GX shifting was flawless.
Pictures attached! Let me know if you have any questions about the frame or the components.
Spcycle G026 (mondice gr226)
SpCycle G026 Toray Frame (Size S) + Custom Paint (1220 g + 20 g)
Winowcycle FKG40 Fork + Expander Plug (460 g + 12 g)
SpCycle Integrated Headset (105 g)
ARC MT009 Hubs (28H) (410 g)
Thru Axles (70 g)
DT Swiss Revolution 1.5 mm Spokes (265 g)
Anodized Aluminum Nipples (30 g)
VZAN Everest V19 Rims (940 g)
RideNow Inner Tubes (90 g)
Rim Tape (20 g)
Chaoyang Merlin 299 1.95 Tires (new) (800 g)
Evosid 350 mm Seatpost (132 g)
Zninno Handlebar, 400 mm, 30° Flare, 110 mm Drop (189 g)
UNO Superlight Stem, ±17°, 80 mm (90 g)
PRO Sport Comfort Bar Tape (60 g)
KCNC Razor Rotors, 160/140 mm (75 g / 65 g)
Shimano BR-R8170 / BR-R7170 Brake Calipers (130 g / 120 g)
Brake Hoses, Housing, Mineral Oil & Brake Pads (70 g + 30 g + 100 g + 30 g)
Shimano ST-R7120 Hydraulic Shift/Brake Levers (635 g)
Shimano GRX RD-RX822 Rear Derailleur (285 g)
Shimano XT CS-M8100 10–51T 12-Speed Cassette (470 g)
Shimano XTR CN-M9100 Chain (242 g)
Shimano FC-M7100 Crankset, 170 mm (503 g)
Iron Aluminum 38T Narrow-Wide Chainring (82 g)
Token T47V24 Bottom Bracket (105 g)
Ryet AirCode Covered Full Carbon Saddle, 150 mm (196 g)
Meroca Titanium Pedals (149 g)
Total Weight: 8.20 kg
I Will list parts one by one with Weight in few days or less.
I just received my new Mondince FM326 and starting to build it. I have a question on the headset. In the attached picture is the lower bearing supposed to sit this high off the crown? Is there something that needs to be placed below the bearing like a crown race? Also for the life on me I cannot figure out were the part in the other two pictures goes. At first I thought it was the crown race but it made the lower bearing ride even higher off of the crown. If placed on the top end of the headset assembly it blocks the hoses coming up through the headset and through the holes in the provided top bearing cap/cover.
I think it is ok how you have it. Just make sure that the bearing sits nicely with the chamfered part of the fork.
The crown race is not needed, because the fork already has that integrated in the carbon.
Quote from: mbaku_14 on June 18, 2026, 10:23:12 PM
Long-time lurker. Just finished building mine in matte black. Still unsure what color to paint the frame ;D. Weighs 8.7kg with tools inside the internal storage.
Completed the build with WheelTop GeX (12s 11-50T), Ryet UnoX Handlebars (90x400) and Saddle, CSC Gravel Wheels (41ext 32int 50deep) with Maxxis Reaver 45c (ballooned to 49mm), Evosid Cranks 165mm with 42T Chainrings, YBN Chain.
Should I change to a 100 or 110mm stem? I feel too cramped in Size S and always keep thinking I need more reach. 174cm tall, 81cm inseam, 182cm wingspan (if that helps). Cheers!
Nice build!! I have a question on the Ryet Unix bars you put on. I ordered the same bars for my FM326 frame but the compression rings they sent are either too low or too high. What did you do to over come this? I am assuming you had the same issue since you have the same frame bar combo. Thank you.
My Lexon Unox bars arrived for my Mondince FM326 build. I'm happy with both and excited to get this build completed. However, when dry fitting fork, headset and bars I am left with a 2.3mm gap between the head tub and top bearing cover. I have tired every combination of part that came with the frame and bar.
- Bars came with two different compression rings, a plastic and an aluminum.
- Frame came with thee headset bearings each a different height, 7mm, 7.5mm and 8mm.
No matter the combination of c-ring and bearing the top bearing cap is still either too high (gap ranging from 2.3mm or 3.3mm depending bearing heights) or too low (top bearing cap rubbing frame and not engaging c-ring)
With everything I know here are my options that I am aware of:
- Use the combination of 7mm bearing and plastic c-ring (as shown in the above photo), cut the steerer tube accounting for the usual things including headset compression and hope the 2.3mm gap reduces to an acceptable width. I watched a video last night that said to take an extra 2mm of the steerer tub for headset compression so I m being hopeful in this option but still not confident it will get me were I want to be.
- Design and 3D print a c-ring (ABS not PLA) with the appropriate thickness. Easy enough as I have the skills and 3D printer to do so. Not to sure the c-ring will hold up overtime being in compression but is it any worse of an option using the nylon injected molded c-ring it came with?
- Keep researching and see if I can find the proper solution from the Mondince FM326/316 owners on this sub or any others that have have gone through this and have emerged victorious with a safe and proper solution.
Any one gone through this process with this same frame and bar combination or similar situation? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I had exactly the same problem on my FM336 with a Deda stem, and I'm still trying to solve it.
What brand is your stem?
I've seen online that some people have experienced the same issue with FSA stems (the fully integrated cable-routing models).
At the moment, I'm going to try modifying a Kocevlo compression ring, or otherwise I'll just switch to another stem—the same one that other FM336 owners are using successfully.
Quote from: loisvigo on August 02, 2026, 02:25:23 PM
I had exactly the same problem on my FM336 with a Deda stem, and I'm still trying to solve it.
What brand is your stem?
I've seen online that some people have experienced the same issue with FSA stems (the fully integrated cable-routing models).
At the moment, I'm going to try modifying a Kocevlo compression ring, or otherwise I'll just switch to another stem—the same one that other FM336 owners are using successfully.
It is a Lenox Unox integrated bar and stem. I ended up 3D printing a c-ring of the correct height and alignment pin/hole as the bar/stem.
Quote from: RDC on May 12, 2026, 03:09:38 PM
thinking same
planned with oscillating saw, then sanding
Did you ever do this?? The internal storage part is just so small :'(
Almost 3000km now on the fm316. Frame geometry is amazing. I don't really understand why traditional geometry is even done anymore. All my road bikes will probably need replacing too...
The only annoying thing is the slightly small tire clearance. I hope this frame gets updated. FM366 geo is not ok. Short reach and 72.5deg seatpost angle.
But there are no other like fm316 now. Maybe new ridley, but it will be expensive.
And that incorrect 144mm rear has been fixed in newer models.
I am really happy with the bike.
I tried my friend's FM316 size M (I am 180 cm, long legs). While I mostly liked how the bike felt on the road (need 10-20 mm extra reach) it feels smaller than I expected and when I go off-road it feels the weight distribution is off - too much pressure on the handlebar which may result in excessively nervous technical descends. The dilemma is, 420 fork will make the bike too relaxed and the 395 is way too low for me. The 405 fork from FM 346 should provide intermediate position with sufficient stack yet decent HTA that I really liked. Luckily, Jack was very cooperative and we made a deal for FM326 size L plus extra fork from FM346.
Will see how it plays out...
Quote from: RussJ on July 29, 2026, 01:15:57 PM
Nice build!! I have a question on the Ryet Unix bars you put on. I ordered the same bars for my FM326 frame but the compression rings they sent are either too low or too high. What did you do to over come this? I am assuming you had the same issue since you have the same frame bar combo. Thank you.
We had some discussion about headsets earlier in this thread, if you still want some opinions you need to go back a bit.
Personally
, I ended up buying some O rings on Amazon to close the small gap I had from using the bearings that came from a PRO headset
My Build is done FM316 size M
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/4gxmtiw7.webp) (https://www.directupload.eu)
Quote from: CJ on November 07, 2025, 10:38:30 AM
Thought this might help others with their builds. Does anyone have experience w/ this type of headset cap?
The provided cap has 4 holes w/ 4 open caps pre-installed and 2 closed caps provided separately
(https://i.ibb.co/Kc7FYQgm/IMG-1808-compressed.jpg)
- You'll only want 2 open caps if running electronic shifting (to prevent dirt/water from entering)
- You'll want to decide which holes are closed BEFORE installing headset/hoses/etc.
- In my case, the rear hose is routed through the left hole (to the right brake lever) while the front through the right
- The disparity in angle/tension caused the cap to settle in a skewed position
- I think this type of cap fares better with more spacers but my stem is pretty slammed
- Not an issue per se, more of an aesthetic thing
Perhaps the cap would align better using different holes, routing the front hose around the steerer tube, or both?
You may want to experiment before securing hoses.
(https://i.ibb.co/bkMPBX7/IMG-1794.jpg)
can you please provide the height of the piece having the 4 holes? I'd like to know what is the overall stack of the frame with 0 spacers
Quote from: v0llhirsch on January 16, 2026, 08:46:32 AM
My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.
Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)
The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.
Components I used:
Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm
Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120
Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)
Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622
Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset
--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)
Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.
Thanks for the info regarding the headset. Have you, or anyone, considered go full integration with a stem like this?
Quote from: Schrubber88 on August 09, 2026, 05:05:42 PM
My Build is done FM316 size M
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/4gxmtiw7.webp) (https://www.directupload.eu)
That's really, really nice. What color is that? Can you post some more pictures?
Quote from: kb_79 on July 25, 2026, 11:40:07 AM
Hi everyone,
I finally completed my custom gravel project and just came back from a very successful 40km shakedown ride. I wanted to share the build details and some feedback on the Mondince FM316 frame.
Here is the full spec list for this Gravel build:
Frame: Mondince FM316-S (Size S)
Groupset: Wheeltop GX Wireless (1x12)
Crankset: Magene PES P515 Power Meter
Cassette & Chain: Shimano SLX 12-speed (10-51)
Wheels: EliteWheels Marvel G36 Carbon
Tires: Tufo Thundero HD 48mm
Rotors: 160mm Front & Rear
Cockpit: UNO HB-FL12 Carbon Handlebar with a 75mm stem (+6°)
Total Weight: 9.1kg
First Ride Impressions:
To give some context, I am a mountain biker at heart, usually riding full-suspension All-Mountain bikes and e-MTBs. This Mondince build is actually my very first experience riding a fully rigid bike with zero suspension! 😅
I have to admit, I was completely surprised by the snappiness and the immediate reactivity of the bike. Coming from heavy, plush mountain bikes, the power transfer here is just insane. The frame is super stiff laterally and feels like an absolute rocket when sprinting out of the saddle.
Despite having no suspension, the clearance for the 48mm Tufo tires acts as a great cushion, making it a real tank on rough trails, while the carbon EliteWheels keep it incredibly lively.
The Wheeltop GX shifting was flawless.
Pictures attached! Let me know if you have any questions about the frame or the components.
Yay!
Do you mind posting more pictures of your build (preferably in different shades of sunlight xD)? I always loved that colour choice, but can not quite imagine how it looks in 'real life'.
bonjour voici le mien fm316(https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/535840) (https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/f/535840)
(https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/536176) (https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/f/536176)
What prices did u guys get? I'm about to order FM316 white chameleon paint for 665 euro, is that a fair price?
Quote from: kb_79 on August 13, 2026, 05:15:04 AM
hello here is mine fm316
(https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/r/535840) (https://rehost.diberie.com/Picture/Get/f/535840)
I love the purple!! What chain protector do you have on you chainstay. With how curve they are I wasn't sure which one would fit.
@RussJ I took it on Aliexpress:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ejyy6f0
Quote from: Le Duke on August 11, 2026, 10:40:38 PM
That's really, really nice. What color is that? Can you post some more pictures?
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260816/temp/9gjttpjk.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9378/9gjttpjk_jpg.htm)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260816/temp/3uqow88q.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9378/3uqow88q_jpg.htm)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260816/temp/kmk8r4x3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9378/kmk8r4x3_jpg.htm)
8225g with alloy rims
Huggies from Rio de Janeiro
Aff I lost the 42 page... happens _\|/_
My fist impression about the project:
Spcycle G026! GRAVEL DE CARBONO DA CHINA! Nova bike do canal!
https://youtu.be/ERebFPFYXGk
Autogeneretaded english subtitle! Rs
Can you recommend an integrated handlebar that would work well with this frame?
Quote from: darkening on February 07, 2026, 02:46:26 AM
Mine SP G026 with SRAM Force AXS HRD + S1000 T-Type, LEESE crankset + SIGEYI powermeter, casste 10-52, chanring 46t.
g-one RS 50mm + TB 2.1
8,7kg total
Which handlebar model do you have? I'm interested in one with that drop but can't find it—especially one with an integrated stem.
Hi. I pulled the trigger on the Spcycle variant of the bike. Will be build with an Ekar Groupset. Since I am currently sourcing parts would anyone who has the bike already check what size the downtube pouch is (Spcycle version is lacking the pouch). thx in advance!
Quote from: Japeke on March 29, 2026, 11:30:18 AM
This bike is stupidly fast to handle. Like a cross bike. Have to test more. And those burts are faaaaast.
If I could choose again, I would take the 130mm reach to handlebar. But now I'm moving the saddle a little back. 40mm setback will be ok.
178cm and 76cm saddle height. FM316 size M.
Spcycle HB-068 120mm handlebar.
Hi there, great build. Can you share what headset have you used?
Put in an order with Jack last week after a year of no riding since my CWind GT30 was stolen, looking forward to a new build! Originally ordered the FM336 but swapped to FM326 after wanting more relaxed/bikepacking orientated geo, hence the mockup paintjob being the FM336.
$1400 NZD ($817 USD) for frame+handlebars+seatpost+paint+shipping to NZ. I asked Jack if they would also paint the handlebar (wanted to paint stem but he said it's integrated) and seatpost and he said they could. Never had a painted seatpost or handlebar so curious to see how it goes, guessing I'll just sand down the post so it fits into the frame.
Jack didn't mention anything about fork selection so I assume 420 is the default?
Quote from: Corex on September 15, 2026, 06:23:10 PM
Put in an order with Jack last week after a year of no riding since my CWind GT30 was stolen, looking forward to a new build! Originally ordered the FM336 but swapped to FM326 after wanting more relaxed/bikepacking orientated geo, hence the mockup paintjob being the FM336.
$1400 NZD ($817 USD) for frame+handlebars+seatpost+paint+shipping to NZ. I asked Jack if they would also paint the handlebar (wanted to paint stem but he said it's integrated) and seatpost and he said they could. Never had a painted seatpost or handlebar so curious to see how it goes, guessing I'll just sand down the post so it fits into the frame.
Jack didn't mention anything about fork selection so I assume 420 is the default?
FM316 is the frame with short A-C fork and FM326 is the frame with long A-C fork (420)
I'm selling a Large off-white (Pantone 9043C, matte) frame/fork/seatpost. It's completely unused, just unwrapped, still in box. Would want to get back almost what I paid £437 posted - so £400 postage included. Will post UK only - or collection. I've decided to stick with my Tideace GV201 for now.
Build's finished. Already got around 300 km on the bike. After trying friend's FM316 Size M I opted for size L and bought extra FM336 fork to compensate for the quirks I did not like steering-wise.
- 2.1 Thunderburts measured as 54 mm on super wide Tagoola wheels fit without issues in moderate mud, although sensitive to the rear wheel alignment. The fork can clean 2.4 easily. For very muddy conditions I would put 50mm on the back.
- Managed to get fit right from the first try - the bike welcomes you into aero tuck which is very easy to maintain thanks to quite high stack and long reach. Still experimenting with lever position and spacers, though.
- It is also very forgiving on rough terrain and steep descends. Bike handles very well and quite stable over single track ruts and eroded soil. Coming from pure bred CX bike where you may be thrown over the handlebars on steep descends it is night and day difference in offroad confidence. The low speed steering is also well preserved and I don't feel like I have to overcompensate in sand or tight turns. Seems like extra 5mm rake from FM336 fork really helps.
- On the road it is VERY fast. Cant compare objectively, as I don't have a power meter on the gravel bike, but for perceived RPE and HR in Z2 it is only 1-2,5 kph slower than my very fast road bike on my usual flat routes even without adjusting pressure on MTB tires.
- 48T chainrings fits without issues. Considering the available space, one could probably fit 52T and convert it into the progressive fit road bike
- It is stiff enough. Apart from squeaky tires I don't feel excessive flex in BB or fork
- The internal storage compartment DOES NOT rattle. On the other hand, friend's storage is noisy so he has to ducktape it. Maybe they changed something in construction, but I have no complaints so far. It is very small, though - no fit for electric pump, but just fine for dynaplug, spare tube and other tiny bits and pieces.
So far it is amazing. I genuinely like pretty much everything and think this is very successful frame, especially if you want to try something something else than another beaten up gravel bike which is the same as the others.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gj7Q8ZY2/IMG-3576.avif)
Nice build, man!
I almost gave up on this frame for an 80/20 road/gravel build because of the 46T limit, but your post gives me hope.
Could you maybe check the gap between your 48T ring and the chainstay (e.g. which size Allen key fits through)? Or post a picture of the space thats left?
I'd love to know if a 50T or even 52T would really clear it, or if anyone else has tried running one on this frame?
Quote from: AdmannSackberger on September 25, 2026, 04:51:17 AM
Nice build, man!
I almost gave up on this frame for an 80/20 road/gravel build because of the 46T limit, but your post gives me hope.
Could you maybe check the gap between your 48T ring and the chainstay (e.g. which size Allen key fits through)? Or post a picture of the space thats left?
I'd love to know if a 50T or even 52T would really clear it, or if anyone else has tried running one on this frame?
The clearance fits 6 mm Allen key so 50T will surely have enough space. The crankset is Kore with Ti axle, with the chainline in the middle of the cassette.
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXJ4Nk4B/image.png)
Has anyone used the toseek road carbon handle bar? Did the included compression ring fit the headset?
Received an update from Jack today. Very happy with how it's looking - god damn that orange is vibrant though lol
Quote from: rcwsr on September 18, 2026, 09:42:39 AM
I'm selling a Large off-white (Pantone 9043C, matte) frame/fork/seatpost. It's completely unused, just unwrapped, still in box. Would want to get back almost what I paid £437 posted - so £400 postage included. Will post UK only - or collection. I've decided to stick with my Tideace GV201 for now.
Any pics of finish? Also any idea what standover height is?
Quote from: Corex on September 27, 2026, 04:57:47 PM
Received an update from Jack today. Very happy with how it's looking - god damn that orange is vibrant though lol
Love the orange. What pantone number did you use? Or was it a suggested colorway that they had?
Quote from: ChocoLateBN on September 29, 2026, 11:40:47 AM
Love the orange. What pantone number did you use? Or was it a suggested colorway that they had?
It's Pantone Orange 021 C. Initially when doing AI mockups for the paint it looked a lot more muted which had me worried, though I suspected that was just AI being shit at accurately representing the colours. Fortunately that was the case because the video from Jack shows it's exactly what I was hoping for in terms of vibrancy.
Hello, need a bit of advise on sizing. Being 172 cm, about 81 cm inseam, and with fairly muscular upper body should I go XS os S? S seems longer than my current M-sized road bike. I would like this to be all-round bike for max 5-6 hours gravel rides on weekends. Also thinking about some bike packing... (more of an idea than plan yet). I usually get hand numbness on my road bike (despite more relaxed position) and I'm concerned XS might be to low at a front, but then again S seem long.
With similar height/inseam as you, I went with a size S + 80 mm stem and I'm quite happy with it.
Quote from: impmonkey on December 22, 2025, 08:36:23 AM
I am also interested in this along with the depth of the cup as that will also be needed for a good fit.
Finding a fully integrated stem that isn't a boat anchor and 200 dollars is proving a challenge.
Where can I find these parts? I bought a handlebar that comes with one that's too wide, so it leaves a gap 😔
I bought the handlebar from SPcycle and the frame from Mondince... when I go to install it, I run into this problem—is anyone else experiencing this? The cover headseat It looks too thick
Need to finish the build and especially to dial in the fit. Fully road setting:
1) newmen all-round 49/54 carbon spokes + Pirelli 40mm tyres
2) deda superbox stem
3) ascent aeroo road bars
The compression ring I needed to use to make full internal routing work was the deda compression ring for the superbox stem in the variant "Botecchia Emme 4" (the compression ring that comes with the stem fits, but sits too high).
I have also been thinking about making the Mondince FM316 a proper road bike – I love the geometry, but maybe for a gravel bike I'd prefer slightly more clearance. @EIB, I notice in your picture that you are running a Ultegra 2x build, so I assume it is a standard road axle length. Is there anything special about 2x on this bike? I've been running a 1x Sram XPLR setup on this, but if I were to convert it to a road bike I'd prefer a standard Sram 2x build. I'd be happy with 35-40mm tyre clearance.
Quote from: AL77AL on October 06, 2026, 03:35:13 AM
I bought the handlebar from SPcycle and the frame from Mondince... when I go to install it, I run into this problem—is anyone else experiencing this? The cover headseat It looks too thick
Just out of curiosity what is your bearing height? I see the bearing cover has stamped 7.5 and yours might be 8.5mm bearing :)
My bearing is 7mm and the cover that comes with the handlebar is 7.5mm; I'm wondering if yours comes with the 7.5mm cover or a smaller one.
Quote from: Buffon_bj on October 08, 2026, 02:38:52 AM
I have also been thinking about making the Mondince FM316 a proper road bike – I love the geometry, but maybe for a gravel bike I'd prefer slightly more clearance. @EIB, I notice in your picture that you are running a Ultegra 2x build, so I assume it is a standard road axle length. Is there anything special about 2x on this bike? I've been running a 1x Sram XPLR setup on this, but if I were to convert it to a road bike I'd prefer a standard Sram 2x build. I'd be happy with 35-40mm tyre clearance.
What do you mean by "special"?
@Buffon_bj I also run FM316 as a road bike - nothing special about the build, FD works fine and is easy to install, the rest is the same as for 1x drivetrain tbh
The only thing to keep in mind that with FD rear tyre clearance is smaller but unless you want to run some 50mm+ slicks it should be fine
@EIB @Fadenek Sorry for being so unclear with my question – I guess my point was mainly about 2x chainring/crank clearance. On my old gravel bike, I could not run a 2x road width crankset as the inner chainring would rub on the chainstay. But based on the fact that you are running an Ultegra crankset, I guess that is not a concern for this bike, and I could just go with my normal Sram road width crankset as well?
@Buffon_bj I'm actually running a bit different crankset - Geoid PM500 with 48/35 PassQuest chainrings and the small ring was rubbing but got a spacer supplied by PassQuest with chainrings (supposedly to install in 12s configuration), installed it and it works fine. Even the power measurement looks fine as well (compared with a trainer).
I'm actually planning to change the setup to 50/34 today as I'm missing a bit lower and higher gears (I'm living in a hilly region), so the clearance naturally is going to be better.
Have tried GRX crankset before (RX-820, 48/31) - worked fine, generally Shimano cranks tend to have better clearance than Geoid PM500/Magene PES505/PES515 so imo should be fine, wonder what is @EIB experience with Ultegra crankset.
I have installed this groupset previously on my giant tcr - press fit BB - and the only difference with the mondince fm316 build was the installation of the waved washer that came with the BB
https://www.windwave.co.uk/product/fsa-t47-68mm-24mm-shimano-road-bottom-bracket-fsa.bb.t47.68.24.shm.rd
Without that piece the small chainring was, in my opinion, too close to the chain stay
Could anyone who has built up this Spcycle frame with an integrated handlebar help me out and tell me what size the headset bearing cover was? 7,5min, 7mm, 6,5mm??
Many thanks.
Quote from: AL77AL on October 09, 2026, 06:54:23 AM
Could anyone who has built up this Spcycle frame with an integrated handlebar help me out and tell me what size the headset bearing cover was? 7,5min, 7mm, 6,5mm??
Many thanks.
SP-cycle also makes a 7 mm compression ring. I don't have this frame but sometimes the upper bearing is 7 mm and bottom 8 mm or the opposite.
This headset has 3 different compression rings for different heights (which seems to be very similar to the one from SPcycle):
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005009240746293.html
In the product details, they show a picture recommending one compression ring or another based on the bearing seat depth.
I haven't tried it, though.
Quote from: AL77AL on October 09, 2026, 06:54:23 AM
Could anyone who has built up this Spcycle frame with an integrated handlebar help me out and tell me what size the headset bearing cover was? 7,5min, 7mm, 6,5mm??
Many thanks.
There are 6.5mm bearings too. Orginal headset bearing are of poor quality, it's not worth assembling a bike with those. Only one long wet ride and those are gone.
Now i have enduro stainless steel bearing.
Quote from: Japeke on October 10, 2026, 01:28:51 AM
There are 6.5mm bearings too. Orginal headset bearing are of poor quality, it's not worth assembling a bike with those. Only one long wet ride and those are gone.
Now i have enduro stainless steel bearing.
That's a great idea! Could you tell me exactly which ones you're using?
Quote from: AL77AL on October 10, 2026, 03:31:45 AM
That's a great idea! Could you tell me exactly which ones you're using?
I have now enduro bearings from a local bikeshop.
40x52x6.5 | IS52/40 (36×45)
I took several heights for the test. Up ans down.
My year round commuter in the city.
(https://i.imgur.com/SGIBmnL.jpeg)