Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: hazzer19 on November 30, 2023, 01:15:14 AM
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VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables
Looks like a spec'd up VB-R-168
Highlights for me:
- T1000 carbon frame built using EPS and latex
- Mavic speed release system with axles included (what's everyone's experience with this?)
- zero offset seat post is stock
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Good catch!
I checked their website two days ago as Chris teasered a new frame to me a few months back!
looks quite interesting!
I wonder if the zero offset seatpost fits into the 168 frame. I will ask Chris about that!
Geometry is still the same as 168/SL7/SL8, but tube shapes look even deeper/more aero (ik, you cant see aero ;))
Who is going to buy one? ;)
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Indeed it looks like a further development of the 168 frame. If so, it is not, as usual, a replica of western bicycle manufacturers. I wonder if it is really their own design?
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I think it basically looks like the VB-R099, except for a slightly shorter and deeper headtube.
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so.. about that speed release system. i guess it saves a few seconds when exchanging a wheel, but is there any other advantage for "not team car supported" riders? always the same clamping force due to the torque release? what am i missing?
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Great looking frame. I'm impressed they're keeping the 499 USD price point.
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And here I thought I was finished reviewing super affordable frames...
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so.. about that speed release system. i guess it saves a few seconds when exchanging a wheel, but is there any other advantage for "not team car supported" riders? always the same clamping force due to the torque release? what am i missing?
There's really not much of an advantage there unless you're using Speed Release Axles with a small hand lever so you don't need a tool, IMO. It might be ever so slightly more convenient but it's no wonder really that this system never caught on. Really weird choice to spec this frame with it. I wonder if this used to be an OEM exclusive design but the license has expired so the mold became available? But then again I don't think I've ever seen this before.
I guess you could still use this frame with regular thru axles, as long as the thread pitch is the same.
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As an existing (and happy) VB-R-168 owner it's seems that the 268 will be a lighter, stiffer version of the 168 with a zero set-back post. I would also imagine the inside of the frame is 'cleaner' than the 168 given it's produced with a latex bladder.
Seems like this would build in to a really nice bike given how comfortable the 168 is to ride.
I've got no experience with the axle system (and have never actually heard of it until now), so am interested to hear if others see this as a positive.
Olie
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What do you guys think about the weight. Looks pretty good to me. Would a cheapish bike around 7,5kilo possible (with 50mm Elite Wheels and Ultegra Di2)?
Anybody had contact about a when to order/deliver?
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Hello guys,
i am quiet new here around. Today i ordered one of these new frames. I intended to buy the 168 but then this one appears. Let’s see how it will work out.
greetings
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The 177 is my favorite road frame from VeloBuild. I really enjoy the riding dynamics for the price and I found it to be much more responsive than my 168. Despite preferring the overall look and geometry of the 168.
For all intent and purpose this new 268 it sounds like it's built very similarly to the 177. If the road feel is the same or better, VeloBuild will have a huge hit on their hands for 2024. Smart move by VeloBuild.
Regarding the weight difference versus the 177...it's about as marginal as the aerodynamic gains from the 268.
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Speed release axles are double threaded. It will be difficult to find third party axle
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Speed release axles are double threaded. It will be difficult to find third party axle
I guess it's smart to order an extra pair with the frame then.
I'm considering going for this one over the 177 (or maybe the Ican A40, which is a beauty but more expensive). I asked about stock and they have some.
Getting two frames, sharing shipping costs, is tempting :)
Should I get wheels as well, or is it better to buy them at Elite (looking for 50mm, affordable, lighish (145-/1500gr) wheels).
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Chris on seatpost compatibility with the 168: it doesn’t fit because the 268 seatpost is wider
What a bummer
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Not sure how I feel about the quick release axles. Extra moving parts and a source or failure for little (or no) benefit. Not sure what the positives even are.
Bummer about the seatpost. Would love to get a zero offset for my 168.
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This frame looks really good. Love the low geo, its not quite as stretched out at the Yishun 086, but i like the look quite a bit better. This is definitely a race geometry. As others have mentioned, the thru axle choice is also very curious and expensive. Makes me wonder if this is was prototype mold or something that didn't work out for a bigger brand. There are legends that some of the open molds in the 2010s started that way; though this doesn't look like a Willier, Derosa, Lapierre, or Orbea.
If you need to / want to ditch the Mavic Speed Release axles, Robert Axle Project does make replacements.
I dont need to buy an aero bike to build. I dont...need...
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It looks like the merged the venge from 2019 with a tarmac sl7 and the axels from cannondale.
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Is there any chance to get a sl7-stem or another handlebar/stem work on the top cap?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
What's a 20 degree setback post?
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In regards to the zero degree setback seatpost, how much range of fore/aft does this reduce compared to 15 or 20 degree?
Isn’t setback usually given in millimetres rather than degrees?
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Is there any chance to get a sl7-stem or another handlebar/stem work on the top cap?
I am probably going to work on this over the next few weeks; and it should fit this frame, though it wouldn't be made for it. I am still considering buying this frame; but haven't got around to asking velobuild if they would just sell me one without any handlebar. I really should get a cross bike, since i actually "need" one vs. another road bike.
I run a small Etsy shop on the side (largely to subsidize my CAD subscription) and have made a number of these kinds of spacers and adapters. If you want to design these yourself, you can definitely use a nylon to get decent results. I think @thestickybottle on instagram, raceware direct, elilee etc are using just regular PA12 made on commercial grade printers. These prints are not as dense and not as strong in compression as OEM injection molded stuff, but they should be strong enough. I spend personally spend an extra $5-10 and get glass filled nylon for anything in constant compression as its much more creep resistant and about the same strength as the OEM stuff.
Edit: I should add that I already have a versions for electronic wireless shifting for the Kalloy Uno stems and drop in replacement C-rings that offer greater contact area as well. DM for more info.
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What's a 20 degree setback post?
I'm an idiot.
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Meaning...if my saddle rail position is dead center on a 20 degree setback post, will I have to slam the saddle back beyond spec to get the same position?
How I manage this is I add the saddle setback to the Effective Top tube length of the known frame setup and then compare that to the frame that has a zero setback seat post.
For example, your Tavelo Attack frame size L has a 15mm seat post setback and an effective top tube of 553mm (390mm reach).
Your total "Imaginary" effective top tube length would be 15+553 = 568mm.
To translate that to the VB-R-268 frame that has a zero setback seat post, you would need to go with the size L of the VB-R-268 which has an effective top tube of 563mm (398mm reach). Then adjust stem length according to your needs.
Coming from a 20mm setback you may need to push your saddle about 5mm forward, off dead center which is fine as far as you do not go beyound the saddle's safety mark.
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So, I am a bit confused about my selection Right now - money is Not the point, I am really struggling between a SL8 and this one here.
For me I have mixed emotions with a chinese frame - my TanTan X21 worked 10k more or less superb (just feeling a bit unsecure about 80km/h), but my newer Airwolf/Aspero frame has dozens of problems I don‘t want to face the next time.
So in case of this 268 what do you think about quality?
My other „problem“ will be mounting another stem or cockpit, which will not fit on velobuilds cap. A friend of mine is familiar with 3d prints, but where do I get those files?
Is the Stack measured with or without cap?
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If you wont miss the extra $2K, getting the SL8 is probably worth it. Easier access to spares, easier shop service if you need it. Proven performance etc. and you will get some of that back on resale if you swap bikes every couple of years.
Regarding your concerns around fitting other bars and stems. This bike uses a 1 1/2” upper bearing, so you should be able to swap it out for headsets from Deda and FSA and use systems compatible with their designs. You will lose the shaped transition spacer. Integrated bars tend to come with fit kits including their own spacers. Higher end Chinese ones like the BigRock Skyline II even include their own C ring.
RE: 3D printing. Some people release their 3d printed designs on sites like printables. I personally do not, as I don’t want to offer support for the design or deal with people printing the designs in materials that they aren’t designed for and then telling me the design doesn’t work.
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Sakizashi since I already have the 168, like you I am considering getting the 268, without the handlebar and stem. My issue with VB is the shortest (width) handle bar they have tends to be 40's and I prefer 38's. Also in the past I have seen a tendency for their sep handlebar and stem tend to result in headset play vs their one piece. The 950 grams for the medium (current 168 is a 54) is of interest considering I would probably go a bit smaller (52). Suspect I can probably end up with a build of 7.2 (pedals and bottle cage included)
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I run a small Etsy shop on the side
You don't happen to have a link to your Etsy, do you? I don't know know if you remember, but talked about an adapter you were making for hiding the Zeno couplers under an SMR stem. (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4455.msg50564.html#msg50564) Figured I'd see if you sell it instead of having to reinvent the wheel.
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You don't happen to have a link to your Etsy, do you? I don't know know if you remember, but talked about an adapter you were making for hiding the Zeno couplers under an SMR stem. (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4455.msg50564.html#msg50564) Figured I'd see if you sell it instead of having to reinvent the wheel.
I am really bad about listing stuff for sale. I think its about a three month delay from a "final" design to a listing.
I just pulled this stem off the road bike to make some adjustments after a few months of testing. Just wanted to create a little more room on shorter length stems with a small design change. The new prints should be here within a week and assuming they come out how I expect, I will add a listing for it. Should be about $50 shipped in the US. I will DM it to you when it's up.
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Has anyone else’s ordered and/or received this frameset yet? Looking to build a new bike this season, came up on 105 DI2 from pro’s closet.
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Hello,
yes I received mine last week ago. It's under construction. As long as i can say, everything is pretty good. I am going to post some pictures in a few days.
JV
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Hello,
yes I received mine last week ago. It's under construction. As long as i can say, everything is pretty good. I am going to post some pictures in a few days.
JV
Could you weigh the frame, fork and hardware etc?
Thanks!
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I also just placed an order for this frame, with the new red "ice break" velobuild paint. Super stoked to build a bike with this + Yuanan wheels + 105 Di2 from the pros closet. Will update with photos/comments/a build thread when it arrives!
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saw this on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM)
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saw this on youtube
Your post didn't come through for me but I imagine you were referencing this unboxing video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM&ab_channel=OBridesbikes
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This is the vid: www.youtube.com / watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWCZQkLYpwM
Idk why the link gets killed...
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yep exactly, very strange for me i can see the video directly in this thread
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If you wont miss the extra $2K, getting the SL8 is probably worth it. Easier access to spares, easier shop service if you need it. Proven performance etc. and you will get some of that back on resale if you swap bikes every couple of years.
Regarding your concerns around fitting other bars and stems. This bike uses a 1 1/2” upper bearing, so you should be able to swap it out for headsets from Deda and FSA and use systems compatible with their designs. You will lose the shaped transition spacer. Integrated bars tend to come with fit kits including their own spacers. Higher end Chinese ones like the BigRock Skyline II even include their own C ring.
RE: 3D printing. Some people release their 3d printed designs on sites like printables. I personally do not, as I don’t want to offer support for the design or deal with people printing the designs in materials that they aren’t designed for and then telling me the design doesn’t work.
I think getting SL7 is better choice than SL8 - it should be cheaper, no major difference between the frames and most importantly SL7 doesn't have the Buttsniffer™
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I think getting SL7 is better choice than SL8 - it should be cheaper, no major difference between the frames and most importantly SL7 doesn't have the Buttsniffer™
I totally agree, but I am in the nice position to get a frame much cheaper because a friend of mine is working in the bike industry. Of course „cheap“ is the wrong word here. I am really unsure about my decision, but in the end I am trying to whitewash it with selling it later for nearly the price I will pay now…
I really like the shape of the 268, but the uncertainty of getting the roval cockpit work is a huge obstacle for my idea of building it up.
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I just placed the order for the 268. I picked the silver chameleon paint job. Anyone had the chance to build their own?
Mine will be with elite edge 45mm. I still have to pick a groupset. I want to go with Chinese mini groupset, but event in the mechanical/hydro brakes, I don't believe they are there yet to compete with Shimano/Sram.
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I totally agree, but I am in the nice position to get a frame much cheaper because a friend of mine is working in the bike industry. Of course „cheap“ is the wrong word here. I am really unsure about my decision, but in the end I am trying to whitewash it with selling it later for nearly the price I will pay now…
I really like the shape of the 268, but the uncertainty of getting the roval cockpit work is a huge obstacle for my idea of building it up.
If money isn't an issue just get the specialized. It'll be lighter, better to ride and the chances of you getting an actually properly made and QCd product are massively higher. And even if there are issues you will be able to warranty it locally and talk to people who actually speak your language.
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Is this new 268 just not a Velobuild Venge?? Look very similar??
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23KYD9CiYeU)
The missing hole on one side of the handles is a bummer! VB should replace this faulty unit.
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exactly, I hope he will ask them
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And that's the Velobuild tax
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Another topic is that there is no hole in bottom bracket to let the water out. I had to drill it too and in his video it’s visible that he also has no hole in his BB. I commented this in his first part of the video. I hope he will noticing it.
But no big thing with the handlebar. I guess Velobuild will replace it.
My bike is nearly finished. Pics will be coming soon.
JV
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Hi Everyone!
New to the forum but I have been following many builds and decided to try it myself.
I have purchased the 268 frame too - it should be on it's way and arrive the coming weeks.
Chris has been very helpful with my requests, but it seems that the frame has been sent with a matte finish rather than satin as requested. Chris is helpful in trying to find a solution.
I will certainly drill a hole in bottom too! ;)
I have the most "respect" for the internal cable routing and the bleeding of the brakes, guess I will watch some youtube videos to get it right!
For the parts, I will be running a mechanical 11speed 105 groupset, Ican Alpha 40 Pro wheels with 30mm Schwalbe Pro tires.
Will post some pictures as soon as I get the frame!
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My 268 pearl white glossy is also on its way, hope color will be right :o
Hi Everyone!
New to the forum but I have been following many builds and decided to try it myself.
I have purchased the 268 frame too - it should be on it's way and arrive the coming weeks.
Chris has been very helpful with my requests, but it seems that the frame has been sent with a matte finish rather than satin as requested. Chris is helpful in trying to find a solution.
I will certainly drill a hole in bottom too! ;)
I have the most "respect" for the internal cable routing and the bleeding of the brakes, guess I will watch some youtube videos to get it right!
For the parts, I will be running a mechanical 11speed 105 groupset, Ican Alpha 40 Pro wheels with 30mm Schwalbe Pro tires.
Will post some pictures as soon as I get the frame!
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I received the frame yesterday and it was shipped to Germany within 10 days. That was really fast. I did a first inspection and the quality seems to be very good. However, a final verdict is still pending as you can only really say something about the quality when you build the frame and ride it. This will happen in the next days and weeks.
I can confirm that the tire clearance is 32mm. Probably even wider tires will fit without problems.
I have a first small problem with the mounting of the rear thru axle. I had to re-cut the thread there. A small thing, but it has to be mentioned.
I'll get back to you as soon as I have more details and will send photos and weights.
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@jepa83, any updates to your build?
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Got my 268 frame last week before going out of town and just started working on it last night. Didn't plan on drilling a drain hole in the BB but after taking the BB out of my 177 it was clear that I needed one. Checked with VB just to be sure it would be ok and then confirmed it was. Drilled a small hole into the frame and carrying on with the build.
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What size of hole do they recommend?
Got my 268 frame last week before going out of town and just started working on it last night. Didn't plan on drilling a drain hole in the BB but after taking the BB out of my 177 it was clear that I needed one. Checked with VB just to be sure it would be ok and then confirmed it was. Drilled a small hole into the frame and carrying on with the build.
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BTW, for those who have their frame: what shape/dimensions is the interior of the seatpost? Wondering how I'm going to mount my Di2 battery.
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My frame arrived!
Well packed and undamaged. Mine even had the bottom bracket hole already drilled, and the holes in the handlebar were good too. The additional derailleur hanger that I asked for wasn't included.
On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
The paintjob looks like good quality, and my decals were neatly placed.
Just a question, I have 105 brakes but no adapters for mounting (160mm disc in front, 140 in the back) - anyone knows which one specifically I need? I ordered one but it seems to be the wrong one, will wait until I get it.
Now awaiting the last few parts such as a threaded BB from Aliexpress (ZTTO I believe).
Edit: @ Dank_ganks, please see pics :)
Cheers!
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The paintjob looks like good quality, and my decals were neatly placed.
Just a question, I have 105 brakes but no adapters for mounting (160mm disc in front, 140 in the back) - anyone knows which one specifically I need? I ordered one but it seems to be the wrong one, will wait until I get it.
That color is fantastic and good job on the decals too.
Assuming you have 105 flat mount calipers, you need these:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804777212476.html
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On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
GRAAL seems to be the component brand of S1neo. (
https://www.s1neo.com/en/detail-product/graal-wheel-45mm-disc-h45dc-dtswiss-240s/p/482)
As the new velobuild track frame is also used by s1neo, i would not be surprised if the 268 mould also was intended for them...
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On the back of the seatpost was a text, GRAAL. Anyone heard of a brand with those?
I guess we solved some of the velobuild mystery: the 268 is the same frame as their 699D.
I was a bit misleaded by the painjob and the searpost, so I first thought this was not the same as the velobuild. Bute then I found this picture, which shows that the S1neo is the same frame. same seatpost and even the Mavic SpeedRelease Axles are the same.
https://cycolo.com/products/s1neo-699d-frameset
Or maybe this was a first iteration of the 699D, as the current one on the website looks different (different tube shapes, downtube cutout for Front wheel): https://www.s1neo.com/en/road/699d-disc
EDIT: Well, the "current' 699D looks very close to the Speeder SC-R49D...
But the 2022 model is clearly the VBR 268: https://youtu.be/7-XRlu6W-HY?feature=shared
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
Thats how I imagine it to be... Same for the 168, as I just discovered.
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What size of hole do they recommend?
I did't ask. Not quite sure I can tell you what I used either, big enough/not too big? ;D
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Edit: @ Dank_ganks, please see pics :)
Thanks a ton for the pics - the frame looks awesome, great design!!
Guess I'll go with the "wrap it in foam and jam it in" strategy.
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So basically the frame was manufactured for that company for a while, contract ended and now the mould is open for companies like Velobuild?
I don't know that this is an open mould, so although VB may have manufactured it for them, it likely can't be made by others using the same mould.
BTW, for those who have their frame: what shape/dimensions is the interior of the seatpost? Wondering how I'm going to mount my Di2 battery.
I just mounted my battery to the inside of the seat post using one of the standard rubber cases from Shimano. There was some wiggle room, but it ended up securing it with some foam that was covering the Di2 dongle I have in there as well.
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I also received my frame yesterday, but will probably not build it before April/May as I am waiting for the er9 to be a reliable option My frame is chameleon Silver.
For the s1neo. I went through their FB posts (reached 2019 posts) and couldn't find anything about the 699D that looks identical to vbr268.
EDIT: VBR268 clearly is the 2022 699D. YouTube Video from s1neo channel clearly displays it
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Guys, this is what open mold means lol. Everyone and their mom has some kind of SL7 variant.
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Good afternoon:
I am new to the forum and on January 8th I ordered the frame in chameleon silver color size S. Yesterday it arrived correctly packaged.
What I didn't get in the package is the cycle computer holder and the extra rear hanger, but they have already told me by email that they will send it to me tomorrow.
I must say that the paint is spectacular, it only has a small bubble on the back that will not be difficult to fix by lightly polishing.
I also have to go over the steering bearing seats and bottom bracket seats with very fine sandpaper.
Waiting to start assembly, happy with the order.
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Build is pretty much done. Not too many new parts as everything has been moved over from my VB-R-177 build.
Haven't had a chance to take it out for a long spin but general impressions so far based on a short coffee ride:
- Stiffer than the 168 and as stiff as the 177 but more aero (not sure I noticed the more aero part haha)
- Zero offset seat tube is really going to help my personal fit
- Saddle clamping system worked really well and easy to adjust. Extra fittings for carbon rail saddles was great to have included.
- Mavic Speed release style axles are going to take a little getting used to. May need a dedicated axle for the trainer to make things easier to take on and off.
- Overall no issues with the build, ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the BB area to drain water. Also had to drill out the metal FD cable stop to fit Di2 wire
- New HB-010 integrated bars that came with the frame feel much stiffer than the original ones I had with the wedge tightening system instead of standard two bolt
Just needs some bar tape and maybe some decals and should be ready.
(https://i.imgur.com/JembWZX.jpeg)
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@hazzer19 how does it ride? ie How responsive to your pedaling (stiffness)? What's the weight of your build. Have to say kudos to VB, they are now good at painting frames.
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Build is pretty much done. Not too many new parts as everything has been moved over from my VB-R-177 build.
Haven't had a chance to take it out for a long spin but general impressions so far based on a short coffee ride:
- Stiffer than the 168 and as stiff as the 177 but more aero (not sure I noticed the more aero part haha)
- Zero offset seat tube is really going to help my personal fit
- Saddle clamping system worked really well and easy to adjust. Extra fittings for carbon rail saddles was great to have included.
- Mavic Speed release style axles are going to take a little getting used to. May need a dedicated axle for the trainer to make things easier to take on and off.
- Overall no issues with the build, ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the BB area to drain water. Also had to drill out the metal FD cable stop to fit Di2 wire
- New HB-010 integrated bars that came with the frame feel much stiffer than the original ones I had with the wedge tightening system instead of standard two bolt
Just needs some bar tape and maybe some decals and should be ready.
(https://i.imgur.com/JembWZX.jpeg)
Nice build, could you please show a picture of the front derailleur di2 wiring especially the parts you drilled.
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I am almost finished with the assembly. Overall, I am very pleased with the frame. The workmanship is good as far as I can tell. I haven't ridden the bike yet, but overall it looks like the frame is stiff enough. At least it doesn't feel too wobbly in the shop. I will report back when I have ridden the bike.
Now I want to give a few more details. Tire clearance is no problem at all. The 30 Continental tires are 32mm wide on the rim, which fits perfectly.
The frame weighs almost exactly 1160 grams in size 58. The uncut fork weighs 424 grams. The cockpit weighs exactly 404 grams at 110x420 mm. The seatpost weighs 230 grams. Other accessories such as the headset topcap, headset, seatpost clamp and thru-axles add another 200 grams.
I built the frame with Ultegra Di2. The complete bike weighs 8.3 kg without the computer. That's not exceptionally light, but it's not terribly overweight either. The wheelset (Lightbycicle WR65 with Goldix 240SL) weighs 1550 grams.
The rear thru axle mount did not work for me. The thread was broken. The thru axle was also not mounted correctly. This means that after the paint job at the latest, it must have been noticed that the thru axle did not fit into the thread. Obviously nobody was interested in that. The frame was shipped anyway. This does not speak well for the quality control at Velobuild. I was promised a new thread for the thru axle. Unfortunately I have not received it yet.
The finish is purple chameleon matte. The quality of the paint is very poor. This is especially true for the durability. There is obviously no top coat. You only have to look at the paint once and there's already a flaw. I'm afraid it's not going to be very durable.
Then there's a minor problem with the top cap. It closes very flush when the handlebars are not tightened. But once you apply the correct torque, the top cap protrudes a bit to the side. This is mainly an aesthetic problem and doesn't look very good.
Now I have to make a few adjustments (like the saddle angle) before I can ride it outside. Also, the weather here in Germany is pretty bad at the moment. I also need new chainrings as the ones I have only work for 11-speed and the shifting performance is pretty bad.
Here are some pictures as a first impression. As soon as I'm outside and can take better pictures, I'll post them here.
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I think if you go with Matte paint there is never a top coat. Even for Mercedes Benz cars if you go with matte paint there isn't a top coat. Sucks about the other issues though and doesn't look super good for velobuild quality :/
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
Looks like a gravel frame. They must have mixed your order up with someone else, and they got your frame. Have you reached out to velobuild?
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Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s their 2021 gravel frame. Its a size xs too…. I sent them an email. I don’t expect to hear anything back soon since it’s lunar new year right now.
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No hurries
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@hazzer19 how does it ride? ie How responsive to your pedaling (stiffness)? What's the weight of your build. Have to say kudos to VB, they are now good at painting frames.
Rides amazing, probably my fave road build so far. Weighs in at around 7.7 Kg, so have some room to improve there (32T cassette in the back isn't helping!)
Nice build, could you please show a picture of the front derailleur di2 wiring especially the parts you drilled.
Thanks! Not sure if you can see a ton from the photo but here is the FD cable stop. I just drilled out the original hole until it was wide enough to pass the di2 wire
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Good to see these nice builds coming along, and to hear that it rides well! Can't wait to try it, although in Sweden that might need some more months...
My build is coming along too - Yesterday I routed the cables and installed the headset.
While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose. I was also smart enough to cut the front derrailleur cable too short (when steering all the way to the right, the cable got constricted by the BB..) so I will have to replace that one either way... I am planning to actually drill out the the FD cable stop hole you drilled out for Di2, but want to run the shifter hose all the way to the derailleur. Good idea?
Well, its a first build and overall it's going well ;)
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While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose.
Happened to me, too. I replaced the hose. Brakes should be reliable at all times. On my second attempt it helped me to dismount the handlebar for routing the cables. The fork was hold by the top cap only.
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Hi guys, here is my build.
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Hi guys, here is my build.
Nice Colour!
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From last year, i dont think I posted these.
Very nice frame, wants to go fast, and compliant / elegant. Wheels that deep in a cross wind in the mountains though... meh.
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From last year, i dont think I posted these.
Very nice frame, wants to go fast, and compliant / elegant. Wheels that deep in a cross wind in the mountains though... meh.
Wrong thread... -> 168
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Good to see these nice builds coming along, and to hear that it rides well! Can't wait to try it, although in Sweden that might need some more months...
My build is coming along too - Yesterday I routed the cables and installed the headset.
While routing, I kinked one of the brake hoses close to the stem area and now I'm wondering if I should replace the whole hose. I was also smart enough to cut the front derrailleur cable too short (when steering all the way to the right, the cable got constricted by the BB..) so I will have to replace that one either way... I am planning to actually drill out the the FD cable stop hole you drilled out for Di2, but want to run the shifter hose all the way to the derailleur. Good idea?
Well, its a first build and overall it's going well ;)
Really nice color. What do you call this (parlemour white or something)?
I'm 178cm tall. Normal to short legs. What frame size do you recon?
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Wrong thread... -> 168
Haha, correct! they look exactly the same, didn't even realize VB had released a 2024 frame... Tasty offering, EPS moulding with a 950g frame in M, and allegedly a bit of T1000!
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Haha, correct! they look exactly the same, didn't even realize VB had released a 2024 frame... Tasty offering, EPS moulding with a 950g frame in M, and allegedly a bit of T1000!
I have ridden both the 168 and 268 now and can confidently say the 268 is a clear upgrade, primarily as it relates to stiffness in the right places. The addition of a zero offset seat post is also helping with a better fit. Still getting used to the axles.
No hurries
That silver chameleon paint job looks really nice! Really digging the matte and glossy white frames a few people have posted here as well. My first Chinese company frame from Workswell was matte white so brings back good memories.
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I have ridden both the 168 and 268 now and can confidently say the 268 is a clear upgrade, primarily as it relates to stiffness in the right places. The addition of a zero offset seat post is also helping with a better fit. Still getting used to the axles.
It's really interesting how quickly these brokers / producers are iterating. Now a frame that doesn't have EPS moulding feels ancient, 2-3 years ago it was pretty high end.
Forks are getting wider.
Holes are getting rounder, brake mounts are getting flat / faced.
C rings are iterated so headset play is no more
QC is getting better.
It's great.
Next frontier is probably weight. In the last year / months, light disc bikes are becoming the rage again, after being told weight didn't matter by the big brands.
But light weight means catastrophic failure if done wrong, or bikes that feel like noodles under heavy guys.
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I ordered the 268 and received something else yesterday. It looks like I got the fork and seat post for the 268 but the frame is something completely different. Anyone have any experience with this? It’s also painted which I didn’t order.
Congratulation, you received my (or better said my girlfriends) frame! Yesterday i received my parcel and it contains the correct Fork and assembly parts, but instead of the GF002 in XS with this paint sheme i´ve got an unpainted vbr 268 in size M.
Just thought lets check the vbr-268 thread if anyone posted about that and there we go ;).
Sooo... your Frame is in Austria now, where is mine?
I already reached out to VB and they responded, basically saying they f***** up because they have been very busy prior to their holidays.
They already asked if i could ship the frame elswhere (most likely to your adress^^) and that they will cover the cost.
I replied that i am of course willing to do so, if possible they shall send me a prepaid sticker which i can print out and I`ll drop it off.
The other way round, it will be more complicated if you are outside EU since the frame was delivered to me using a special method to avoid our wicked fees&taxes.
It needs to be done the same way now, otherwise i would have a lot of struggles with the customs and need to pay a fortune.
Lets see what VB responds, - send me a pm if you want to align.
kind regards,
Bernd
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@Cnasta
If you mean my colour and not jardoOo's, its a very light greenish :)
I am 182cm tall and ordered the size 56, also Chris confirmed this size. The geometry is similar to the Specialized SL7 I believe, in case you can try one?
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Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
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Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
GOOD MORNING
IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS
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Nice job! Catia? :)
Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.
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Got my frame yesterday - will post pictures soon but I'm super happy with the frame.
@easyfunk I think I have the same issue with the rear thru axle insert as you - it arrived stripped and wouldn't seat. You said Chris is sending you a replacement part?
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GOOD MORNING
IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS
That's the one, thanks! So, accounting for a gap between it and the frame, ~15mm is close enough.
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Nice job! Catia? :)
FreeCAD
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Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.
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Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.
I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.
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I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.
Thats basically how its done on all fully-integrated mechanical builds. Not optimal nor hassle free, but works...
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I have built 4 velobuild frames with sensah mechanical. it works. It's a MAJOR pain, but it works. Front derailleurs tend to be the worst performers. You kind of NEED to buy brake cables that are road specific. that way the other end is smooth and slides in housing despite the shitty angles. if you have cables that you snip on one end, unless you're a soldering maestro, the end of the wire catches in sharp angles in the housing and after a while you want to burn society to the ground and go live in the woods.
I havent ridden more than c.450km on my ltwoo er9, but so far i LOVE it. it means 2 cables instead of 4 to route via the headset area, which makes it a breeze in comparison. The geekiest may be mechanical at the back, and electronic at the front. that would a frankenbuild though. 3 cables much better than 4 still. You could do mechanical disc and mechanical shift at the rear, and hydraulic and electronic at the front. You would woo the ladies with your engineering acumen. They'd be like "please take me here now". Maybe.
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I was more thinking of mechanical gear with hydraulic brakes but still 4 housing to route
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I am running a mechanical 105 with hydraulic brakes.
I just finished routing after some struggles all cables through handlebar and frame, shifting cables completely until the derraileurs. Drilled out the FD stop, and the movement of the shifting cables inside the housings feels OK - but gotta see after finishing setting that up.
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So, my build is done 8)
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Wow what paint color is that? Absolutely gorgeous!
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Thank you! It's glossy pearl white.
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Very nice! Came out clean, white is my favorite for bikes. Looking to do a similar build as I picked up 105 DI2 last year on close out. Also looking at Elite wheels seem like good value for the money.
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Maybe it will help you to decide, I own one pair of Elitewheels ENT rim brake version with 4k kilometers and no issue, so I decided to order lighter EDGE model for VB. In my opinion ENT hub sound is nicer, but weight of EDGEs wins.
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I'm also doing a 105 Di2 close-out build - split my order up into 3 orders at TPC so I could use 3 $50 off $200 codes, and ended up with a full 105 groupset for ~$450
Wheels-wise, I bought a set of UNI 50/65 (front/rear) wheels from Leon at Yuanan (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4617.0.html) - haven't ridden on them but they're really nice looking/feeling wheels and he was super great to work with. The price was absolutely right, and the wheels are lighter than my existing Cannondale Hollowgram 35s and shipped with tubeless rim tape and valves. IIRC Yuanan is the manufacturer for EliteWheels
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I'm also doing a 105 Di2 close-out build - split my order up into 3 orders at TPC so I could use 3 $50 off $200 codes, and ended up with a full 105 groupset for ~$450
A FULL Di2 group for $450? That's much less than an L-TWOO eR9 group (where you have to add chain cassete and crank). That's insane value! I paid 400+ shipping for my er9, so came out 455$ shipped, 135$ for carbon cranks that I dont trust (already broke 1 arm), 22$ per chain, and 40-50$ for c.230g cassettes. And it's pretty much impossible to get any of this materially cheaper (except the eR9 that's cheaper now). That's 657$...
Although i guess a close out sale is a function of lucky timing, and living with crank & k7 sizes you may not really want. Still, crazy deal, well done.
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I did end up having to buy the battery separately, and ended up with 175mm cranks when I wanted 172.5... but I might swap those for a magene P505 anyways.
Finished building up the bike this weekend! Feels great to ride although I do need to do some more dialing in of the brakes. Came out to 8.43 kg which was a little more than I hoped for but I'm still super happy with. Did end up needing to drill a hole in the FD cable passthrough to fit the Di2 cables through.
What i've noticed so far:
- Cable routing, especially through the bars, was much easier than I expected! Would hate to do a mech build in this bike though.
- I've never ridden a bike with carbon bars - I was super surprised by how compliant they are, especially gripping the hoods. Is this normal or should I be concerned?
- Seems like there isn't enough fiber grip in the world to keep this seat level - I smeared it all over the inside of the seatpost and cranked on the clamping bolt as tight as I felt comfortable, but it still tips around (as you can see in the photo)
- Rear Di2 cable REALLY wants to go into the gears - right now I have it taped down to the frame with some electrical tape but I'm wondering if anyone has some tips for that?
Overall I'm super happy with the bike and loving VB's "ice break" paint job!
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THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME. I SPREAD EVERYTHING WITH CARBON FIBER PASTE AND TIGHTEN UP TO 17 NEWTONS BUT THE THREAD WAS DAMAGED.
THEN I REALIZED THAT THE PARTS AND THAT AREA OF THE POST ARE MADE OF ALUMINUM SO I REMOVED ALL THE PASTE, CLEANED IT WITH DEGREASER AND TIGHTENED IT AGAIN WITH ANOTHER PROVISIONAL SCREW TO 15 NEWTONS. AT THE MOMENT THE SADDLE HAS NOT BEEN LOOSENED AGAIN, I HAVE ALSO ORDERED THE TITANIUM SCREW. REALLY ALL THE HARDWARE THEY SEND IS OF VERY POOR QUALITY.
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I'll have to give that a try. I was also noticing that my front thru-axle had come undone a bit on my test ride... but might be user error of insufficent torque.
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Recap having read the whole thread, so far, there are recurring problems with rear thru axles threads that dont work, which make the bikes unusable.
Everybody seems to hate the Mavic thru axle system and nobody understands why that's being used.
The seatpost slips despite using massive torque & carbon paste. USUALLY, people report slipping seatposts because they tighten to 5-6nm, when this bolt is usually supposed to be tightened much more. Routinely up to 12nm. FWIW, my long teng frame says 12nm on the seatpost clamp. I would be very concerned to go above that number though, so people here saying they're tightening to 15, i hope it's on the direct instruction of VB, because if that area cracks, you can bin the frame. I cracked a carbon crank arm 2 weeks ago at 6-7nm. Carbon that explodes is not a pleasant experience, as it's an instant write off.
Earlier versions didn't have a hole at the bottom of the frame for water to drain out, but this seems fixed now, and easy fix anyway. One or 2 instances of bars missing an exit hole for the housing - easy fix.
Bottom line: feels very beta still. Loose thru axles, poor threads on thru axles, slipping seatposts basically means you can't ride the bike. For seatposts, presumably, you can shim some aluminium from a can to create friction. For the TA, i have no solution and i'd be very unhappy.
Edit. At least 4 users report problems with the TA / TA area:
Thegoods
Benbenben
Deanoden
Easyfunk
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I do not share your recap of this thread. Especially the saddle clamp (not the seatpost clamp) is no deal when done right. Through axles are a problem, that's true, and I'm still waiting for the replacement
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Same. Almost no issues with mine with an early frame (I think, no hole in the BB area). I haven't had issues with the axles, just getting used to having them in the right place to take the wheels out, primarily the back, the front one is easier.
I had one instance of the saddle tilting down but hasn't happened again since I applied more torque. No issues with the seat post slipping. No issues with holes in the bars either. Overall still very happy with how it's performing so far.
(https://i.imgur.com/WZ5VfMCh.jpeg)
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Also no issues with seatpost slippage, just with the saddle tilt. Thru axles are definitely not ideal though.
Nice looking bike, hazzer!!
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
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hazzer where did you even come up with the idea for that paint job. So cool
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
Really looking forward to your review/opinions/paintjob.
Also, haven't heard of those wheels. Wondering whether they are worth € 500,00 over Elite Edge wheels in 50mm (just a small weight penalty, but a lot of extra money).
Same goes for the sadles, which seems heavier than the Ryet one. Any reason to go this route other than "because I can" (which is a good answer as well :) )
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I have a 268 frameset coming my way next week, once paint is completed. The color is sick!
Looking forward to seeing what VB has been up to lately.
SRAM Force eTap 1x
Nepest Maui 45 Wheels (1282g)
Prime Bike Carbon Aero Bars
Bucklos 3D Printed Saddle
That’s the plan at least…
Can’t wait for this build up and review. I’ve been waiting for these build ups and video reviews before making my purchase.
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Really looking forward to your review/opinions/paintjob.
Also, haven't heard of those wheels. Wondering whether they are worth € 500,00 over Elite Edge wheels in 50mm (just a small weight penalty, but a lot of extra money).
Same goes for the sadles, which seems heavier than the Ryet one. Any reason to go this route other than "because I can" (which is a good answer as well :) )
My previous two VeloBuild road builds I used both Elite Drive 45D (no longer in production) and FarSports EVO 4. While the Drive 45D are light, I didn't find them particularly stiff. The EVO 4s are stiff but still use 19mm internal rims which I have long moved away from. Nepest as a brand do a lot of things right. The fit/finish of the wheels and road dynamics feel very much OEM as expected. To me they feel closer to FarSports than Elite Drive.
Now regarding saddles, I don't like the shape nor length of the Ryet saddle. I've had great success both indoors and outdoors with my Bucklos saddles, and it's only 30g heavier than my S-Works Power saddle.
I'm not really going for a full weight weenie build with the 268. But I do suspect this build to give both my Tavelo and Giant Propel a run for their money in the weight department. We should be looking at 7.0-7.1kg without pedals/power meter/computer mount.
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Can get better than nepest for less from farsports
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hazzer where did you even come up with the idea for that paint job. So cool
Thanks! I saw something online that was similar but when I submitted the design I wasn't as specific as I could have been (only half the head tube was supposed to be painted, vertically cut off) but end result has grown on me!
Lesson, if you are asking for a custom paint job be a specific as you can be otherwise they'll be guessing on the other side.
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Page 9 seems to be broken >:(
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Weird, I have the order set in reverse and pages 1 and 2 are broken for me still. If I open the site in Chrome Incognito I can see them all no problem including 9.
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Jens do you want try and delete your original post to see if fixes the broken page(s) and the ability for some to see any new updates?
As fas as uploading photos, using the attachment option or pasting an embedded link to a site like imgur.com that hosts your image should work ok.
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What would be the best approach if someone wanted this bike but with a 36 cm handlebar?
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STOP....
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...POSTING...
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...BAD...
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...OR...
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...CORRUPT...
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...PHOTOS...
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...PLEASE...
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...OR AT LEAST...
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...USE...
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11th page we go.
Maybe stop uploading incompatible images that corrupt the pages. If this is you...then perhaps use a 3rd party photo platform and simply share the URL.
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
Take a look at my 177 video at the 5:28 mark - I discuss the FSA no69 headset system. This allows you to run your own handlebar and stem combo. And this is precisely what I plan to use again for my 268.
https://youtu.be/tA6i2vBFrzE?si=o5mWWbAoCFL42EKU
FSA Vision NO.69/SRS
https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs
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Two pages fully corrupted. Is there a way to retrospectively clean pages from these corrupted files?
And back to the 268 frame topic: what would be the ideal approach to mount a narrower bar on this frame? Would it be advisable to use the headset provided by VB or take a different route entirely?
I can finally see the latest posts (page 1 for me as I have reverse order setup) but pages 2 and 3 are still down. I asked Sitar_Ned if we could delete post #122 which could be the culprit per jepa83's comments so maybe that could fix things.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
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Same here. Has anyone contacted VB about it?
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I had the same issue. To get it to work I sort of retreaded the frame by taking the through axle and forcing it in from the outside and then running it in and out a few time. VB has a flaw somewhere on this part of the frame.
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I had the same issue. To get it to work I sort of retreaded the frame by taking the through axle and forcing it in from the outside and then running it in and out a few time. VB has a flaw somewhere on this part of the frame.
I did exactly the same. Velobuild agreed to send me a replacement insert, but I did not receive it yet.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
No issues with this for me and I have used two different sets of VB rear axles and RD hangers.
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My rear axle does not fit the threads well at all. Almost feels as if it’s cross threaded initially even though it’s not. I got a Robert axle mavic replacement and it won’t thread into it it all. It’s supposed to be a direct replacement for mavic speed release, but it will not thread and I don’t want to force it and strip something. Does anyone’s rear axles thread smoothly?
Good afternoon: For my part, no problem in that matter.
The only thing about the entire assembly that is giving me any problems is the issue of anchoring the saddle. I had an Elita One carbon saddle installed but it was giving me some discomfort so I changed it for a Prologue Scrath M5 with round rails. I have tightened it to 15N and even today when I went over a bump it moved a little. It occurred to me to use blue Loctite applied to the entire area and see how it goes.
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
maybe check the ryet aircode 3d.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005209973776.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.1391J7XXJ7XXnu&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005209973776.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.1391J7XXJ7XXnu&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra)
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Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Will be interested to hear your experience on routing on this bike
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Just ordered this frame to do a build for my girlfriend.
Velobuild 268 (in glossy pearl white, because of the incredible pictures shared earlier)
Complete Shimano 105 mechanical 12 speed groupset
Elitewheels ENT disc 38mm x 28mm wheels
GP5000 28mm
TPU inner tubes
Quick question: only part lacking is finding a saddle. Any (scientific / structured) approach on finding one for her?
I'd love to see some (or: a lot) pictures of that frame/color. Thinking about the same color :) Allready sourced a Ultegra 11sp di2 groupset 2nd hand. Would make a killer bike I think (this or the Ican A40) :)
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I will definitely circle back the pictures, and can provide details on the build process. Especially on the topic of going mechanical this time.
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Good night
After 500 km with the bike, I can say that I am very satisfied.
I leave some photos of the final assembly
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Wicked @rga19071976 !
Assuming your paint color is silver chameleon, my frameset was shipped out yesterday in the same color. Hoping it delivers by end of March. I'm gonna be blinding mofos when the sun hits 8)
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Wicked @rga19071976 !
Assuming your paint color is silver chameleon, my frameset was shipped out yesterday in the same color. Hoping it delivers by end of March. I'm gonna be blinding mofos when the sun hits 8)
Right, that's the color. It's a blinding machine :D
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Hi!
Fairly close to pulling the trigger on the 268. Does anyone know if the expander plug and compression ring design is identical to the recalled one on the SL7?
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Hi!
Fairly close to pulling the trigger on the 268. Does anyone know if the expander plug and compression ring design is identical to the recalled one on the SL7?
No, its velobuilds own design. (if that's a good or a bad thing, that's up for you to judge. I used a Deda 70mm Expander and a modified compression ring from the SL8 on my VB)
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No, its velobuilds own design. (if that's a good or a bad thing, that's up for you to judge. I used a Deda 70mm Expander and a modified compression ring from the SL8 on my VB)
Thanks, so the new plastic/injection moulded compression ring for the SL8 fits in the 268?
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Thanks, so the new plastic/injection moulded compression ring for the SL8 fits in the 268?
no, does not fit.
you either gotta buy a new top headset bearing (with the same ID as the SL8) or you gotta lathe or sand down the SL8 compression ring to make it fit.
and you might also need quite a few microspacers as well.
But you can also stick with the setup that VB supplies, people don't seem to have these issues anymore.
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I dont remember on which bikes i did it, but i 3d printed some thin (c.1mm) half moon-ish spacers to go above the C ring (it was a C ring with 1 position knob sticking out) so that the 1st plastic thing sitting on top of the tube wouldn't rub on the frame. I had to do that using bars i didn't buy from whomever sold me the frame, but my point is, if that plastic / metal rubs on the frame because the C ring isn't high enough / the bearing isn't tall enough, you can get away with a basic 3d printed spacer (i did 2-3 prototypes, the whole thing probably took me 2h across design, iterating and printing), that avoids having to sand / machine / lathe the bit that sits on top of the frame.
I also used spacers on the drive side of cranksets, BB tools (tightening & extraction), saddle bottle cage mount, garmin mount for aerobars... It's a great resource to have.
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I dont remember on which bikes i did it, but i 3d printed some thin (c.1mm) half moon-ish spacers to go above the C ring (it was a C ring with 1 position knob sticking out) so that the 1st plastic thing sitting on top of the tube wouldn't rub on the frame. I had to do that using bars i didn't buy from whomever sold me the frame, but my point is, if that plastic / metal rubs on the frame because the C ring isn't high enough / the bearing isn't tall enough, you can get away with a basic 3d printed spacer (i did 2-3 prototypes, the whole thing probably took me 2h across design, iterating and printing), that avoids having to sand / machine / lathe the bit that sits on top of the frame.
I also used spacers on the drive side of cranksets, BB tools (tightening & extraction), saddle bottle cage mount, garmin mount for aerobars... It's a great resource to have.
Thanks, previous in the thread there are mentioned some FSA micro-spacers (0.25 mm) you can get in a pack of 10 for 10 EUR. Will probably use them and cut them to C-shape - and save the 3D-printer for now ;D
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My vb-r-268 in matte black size M arrived today. Will start building it in the next days. Just waiting for the disc elite edge wheelset to arrive in a week or so.
I was a bit disapointed about the frameweight thou. I expected it to be less or around 1kg. It weighs 1102g with the rear thru axle mounted (41g). But I should have a road bike considerably less than 8kg at the end.
There were people in this thread complaining about the rear thru axle threads. So I emediatly tested it. This is what I discoverd:If you loosen the rear hanger bolt a bit, the thread works perfectly well and the thru axels goes in smoothly. When the rear hanger is tighten, then it is harder for the axle to be threaded in, and it may seem that the thread is crossed. But it is actually fine. I guess the hangermount is not perfectly alinged. A flaw I can totaly live with.
I am planing to use alloy link cables (like jagwire elite link) for the internal routing of the shifting cables, because I had very good experiences with this kind of cable housings at my previous semi internal routed frame. The shifting is more accruate, they are more flexible and they are lighter than standard housings. I already checked the bend in the stem/fork region and it should be just ok. I will keep you postet on the development of that nerdy experiment.
To relicate my bike fit I bought an extra set of spacers, which velobuild sent with the frame for $ 10. Now I am using around 4cm of spacers.
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My vb-r-268 in matte black size M arrived today. Will start building it in the next days. Just waiting for the disc elite edge wheelset to arrive in a week or so.
I was a bit disapointed about the frameweight thou. I expected it to be less or around 1kg. It weighs 1102g with the rear thru axle mounted (41g). But I should have a road bike considerably less than 8kg at the end.
There were people in this thread complaining about the rear thru axle threads. So I emediatly tested it. This is what I discoverd:If you loosen the rear hanger bolt a bit, the thread works perfectly well and the thru axels goes in smoothly. When the rear hanger is tighten, then it is harder for the axle to be threaded in, and it may seem that the thread is crossed. But it is actually fine. I guess the hangermount is not perfectly alinged. A flaw I can totaly live with.
I am planing to use alloy link cables (like jagwire elite link) for the internal routing of the shifting cables, because I had very good experiences with this kind of cable housings at my previous semi internal routed frame. The shifting is more accruate, they are more flexible and they are lighter than standard housings. I already checked the bend in the stem/fork region and it should be just ok. I will keep you postet on the development of that nerdy experiment.
To relicate my bike fit I bought an extra set of spacers, which velobuild sent with the frame for $ 10. Now I am using around 4cm of spacers.
1. You plan to route 4 housings through the bars & stem using this https://jagwire.com/products/diy-cable-kits/2017road-elite-link-brake-kit? Having routed 4 VB bikes with keb-sl housing (full internal), i really dont think it's possible, so very curious to see how you manage that.
2. If i had extra spacers like that under my stem, i'd probably run an extra long plug expander to spread the forces over the widest possible area. Leverage is a thing, so if you hit a bad pothole, you're at a materially higher chance of cracking the steerer if you run tall chimneys like that. That's also going to add another sharp bend to the routing.
3. so the frame is 1060g and they advertise 950g. Did you ask if the 950 is a raw carbon weight? Primer & paint done by VB is going to add weight, idk if it adds 100g, sounds like a lot, but I'd say >50g. At which point a 50g variance is 5% of the advertised weight, i guess it's within spec? When you order rims, if it weights 460g, the seller typically says +/- 15g, and a rim is a lot less intricate than a frame.
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How are the axle-threads in the frame holding up for you guys that have had the frame for some time?
Heard of some initial problems from some users.
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Haven't had any subsequent issues with the axles (on the other hand, i haven't removed and replaced the wheel a lot).
I've noticed that the bars (VB's integrated bars) feel pretty soft. Is this to be expected on carbon bars? These are my first carbon bars and they're definitely way flexier than alloy bars I'm used to. Should I be concerned at all about this?
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I've noticed that the bars (VB's integrated bars) feel pretty soft. Is this to be expected on carbon bars? These are my first carbon bars and they're definitely way flexier than alloy bars I'm used to. Should I be concerned at all about this?
I also found my VB integrated bars to be softer than all my previous alloy bars. For me, it’s actually quite nice and comfortable and absorbs lots of road vibrations. I guess maybe it’s a problem if you like doing hard sprints on the drops but I personally like these bars (after riding with them for 18 months on a Velobuild VBR-099).
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Size 56
Silver Chameleon Paint
Frame (no FD hanger): 1079g - I'm going 1x. FD delete saves 15g
Fork (uncut): 406g
Seatpost (with saddle clamp): 228g
TOTAL: 1713g
I'm going to assume the 950g advertised weight for a size M was unpainted, and the 180g seatpost didn't include the actual saddle clamp. The 410g fork weight however is accurate. No complaints to be honest. Both paint and facing surfaces look good too.
For Reference...
Giant Propel Size ML
Frame: 1071g (both hangers)
Fork: 361g
Seatpost: 198g
Total: 1630g
Tavelo Attack size L
Frame: 1041g
Fork: 443g
Seatpost: 156g
Total: 1640g
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Do none of you want to believe that the weight specs are simply lying
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Do none of you want to believe that the weight specs are simply lying
Yeah, it's often like that. Why the hell would I be interested in the unpainted weight?
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Yeah, it's often like that. Why the hell would I be interested in the unpainted weight?
Because matte paint is lighter than gloss, that a single coat is lighter than several colours with decals? Factories either advertise unpainted weight, or matte black weight.
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Good afternoon: For my part, no problem in that matter.
The only thing about the entire assembly that is giving me any problems is the issue of anchoring the saddle. I had an Elita One carbon saddle installed but it was giving me some discomfort so I changed it for a Prologue Scrath M5 with round rails. I have tightened it to 15N and even today when I went over a bump it moved a little. It occurred to me to use blue Loctite applied to the entire area and see how it goes.
Blue loctite is for threaded applications. Will not help you with this.
Generally carbon saddle rails are 7x9mm dimension and steel are 7x7mm so your seatpost saddle clamp might not be sized right for your saddle rails. Some seatpost saddle clamps are specific to 7x9mm or 7x7mm and some are not.
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1. You plan to route 4 housings through the bars & stem using this https://jagwire.com/products/diy-cable-kits/2017road-elite-link-brake-kit? Having routed 4 VB bikes with keb-sl housing (full internal), i really dont think it's possible, so very curious to see how you manage that.
2. If i had extra spacers like that under my stem, i'd probably run an extra long plug expander to spread the forces over the widest possible area. Leverage is a thing, so if you hit a bad pothole, you're at a materially higher chance of cracking the steerer if you run tall chimneys like that. That's also going to add another sharp bend to the routing.
3. so the frame is 1060g and they advertise 950g. Did you ask if the 950 is a raw carbon weight? Primer & paint done by VB is going to add weight, idk if it adds 100g, sounds like a lot, but I'd say >50g. At which point a 50g variance is 5% of the advertised weight, i guess it's within spec? When you order rims, if it weights 460g, the seller typically says +/- 15g, and a rim is a lot less intricate than a frame.
My built is finally finished. At the end I opted for only twoo of largest spcers, one from my extra spacer kit (I know, its the same hight, but less hassle).
When I tried to assemble the handlebar with the 4 cables I quickly gave up the idea of using my used link cables. The thight space in the handlebar lead to gaps between the links, so I ripped it out and used the jagwire road kits instead.
I don't like how velobuild routed the cables underneath the stem. They dont run internally, inside the stem, but underneath of it in a canal. So there is a even tighter bend between the fork and the handlebar. I even had dificulties running the inner cables through the housing when reaching the bend. They got stuck, and I had to loosen the handlebar again.
It would have been better if the cables run inside the stem. They would have more space for the a bend with a biger radius.
It was a big hassle, but at the end everything is working well.
7,8 kg with Sensah Empire pro, onirii/iiipro cable/hydro disc brakes and elite edge wheels.
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Very nice, well done! let us know after a few thousand kms how the whole thing feels.
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
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My built is finally finished. At the end I opted for only twoo of largest spcers, one from my extra spacer kit (I know, its the same hight, but less hassle).
When I tried to assemble the handlebar with the 4 cables I quickly gave up the idea of using my used link cables. The thight space in the handlebar lead to gaps between the links, so I ripped it out and used the jagwire road kits instead.
I don't like how velobuild routed the cables underneath the stem. They dont run internally, inside the stem, but underneath of it in a canal. So there is a even tighter bend between the fork and the handlebar. I even had dificulties running the inner cables through the housing when reaching the bend. They got stuck, and I had to loosen the handlebar again.
It would have been better if the cables run inside the stem. They would have more space for the a bend with a biger radius.
It was a big hassle, but at the end everything is working well.
7,8 kg with Sensah Empire pro, onirii/iiipro cable/hydro disc brakes and elite edge wheels.
Looking good. Just ordered two 268's and two pair of Elite Edge Wheels as well.
How many spacers did is included with the frame? Did you have to purchase extra spacers?
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
Thnx Pat! Not a great fan of the color, but really looking forward to your build, especially regarding the routing of the cables around the headtube/fork.
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My first look video is live on the channel.
YouTube Search: Velobuild 268 First Look - My excitement for budget frames has returned
https:// youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy
https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy (https://youtu.be/SKZo17VVuEk?si=lfH6xQdDkYU3oMDy)
As someone who currently runs a 140 stem on his setup and wants to see that fsa 69 headset on this frame, get to work! i need to see if it looks good or not ;)
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Prepared to be disappointed ;D
I run a 140mm -12 stem on my Allez Sprint, paired with a set of carbon bars from Prime Bike Components (76mm reach).
The problem with running the FSA no69 headset system in this particular build is I can't get my overall stack height low enough, and I don't have a spare 140 stem. Only a 130mm -17. Thankfully I bought a spare set of Prime bars before they stopped shipping to the USA.
Currently my bar selection is an integrated cockpit I had from a pervious TanTan build. 120mm stem, 84mm reach, -10 angle. Brands grossly mis-measure the stem length on their integrated cockpits. From the compression cap bolt to the center point on the top, rather than to the imaginary stem faceplate. Essentially the stem on a 120mm integrated cockpit is more like the equivalent of a 130/135mm length traditional stem.
So with a bar reach of 84mm, an effectively 135mm length stem, and the fact I don't really need spacers going this route, the integrated cockpit will get me much closer to mimicking my Allez Sprint than a separate 140mm stem/bar FSA 69 combo.
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Which Di2-battery holder fits the frame? A SL7-compatible one like this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005849437833.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2c9f8dkD8dkDWh&algo_pvid=105aa6db-5372-4081-a393-f7d1b7678b9e&algo_exp_id=105aa6db-5372-4081-a393-f7d1b7678b9e-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2142.11%2126.95%21%21%2142.11%2126.95%21%402101ef7017121542823771825ee421%2112000034567850411%21sea%21DK%21184435219%21&curPageLogUid=pRdUel7OqO7Y&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Good night
After 500 km with the bike, I can say that I am very satisfied.
I leave some photos of the final assembly
What size tires are you running?
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Prepared to be disappointed ;D
I run a 140mm -12 stem on my Allez Sprint, paired with a set of carbon bars from Prime Bike Components (76mm reach).
The problem with running the FSA no69 headset system in this particular build is I can't get my overall stack height low enough, and I don't have a spare 140 stem. Only a 130mm -17. Thankfully I bought a spare set of Prime bars before they stopped shipping to the USA.
Currently my bar selection is an integrated cockpit I had from a pervious TanTan build. 120mm stem, 84mm reach, -10 angle. Brands grossly mis-measure the stem length on their integrated cockpits. From the compression cap bolt to the center point on the top, rather than to the imaginary stem faceplate. Essentially the stem on a 120mm integrated cockpit is more like the equivalent of a 130/135mm length traditional stem.
So with a bar reach of 84mm, an effectively 135mm length stem, and the fact I don't really need spacers going this route, the integrated cockpit will get me much closer to mimicking my Allez Sprint than a separate 140mm stem/bar FSA 69 combo.
I got another 140 -6 Zipp for you, but it isn't the prettiest ;)
I really want to keep the bars/stem there own thing, exactly for the reasons you mentioned! Can we at least get a mock up with that setup!? For some reason this is very important to me lol
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Thoughts? Will it be possible to jam mechanical hydraulic Sensah or Ltwoo in this frame.... just a pain in the rear to route but ok after that or not possible at all.
Just about to pull the trigger on this frame or the lcr0x-d (timemachine copy) and was going to go ER9 but worried about all the issues.
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Thoughts? Will it be possible to jam mechanical hydraulic Sensah or Ltwoo in this frame.... just a pain in the rear to route but ok after that or not possible at all.
Just about to pull the trigger on this frame or the lcr0x-d (timemachine copy) and was going to go ER9 but worried about all the issues.
i've built a VB168 with Sensah (4 hoses), the 268 is the same infrastructure, so yes you can run mechanical. It's a major, major pain though, and the FD shifting will probably suck.
I've installed 5 er9 groups, they're wonderful. The app is awesome, adjustments are much easier than mechanical (especially FD, i hate mechanical FD adjustments). Together, we've only put 3-3.5k km on them though, so they might turn to shit, although i dont see why they would.
I really liked the 168, the 268 should only be better. I would do er9 on 268 with nice wheels (not less than 500-650$ range before shipping), gp5000 tyres, and you will have a wonderful bike.
On the lcr0x-d, it's a bit old now; i wouldnt buy a bike that maxes out at 28C, and T700 is on the ghetto side now.
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i've built a VB168 with Sensah (4 hoses), the 268 is the same infrastructure, so yes you can run mechanical. It's a major, major pain though, and the FD shifting will probably suck.
I've installed 5 er9 groups, they're wonderful. The app is awesome, adjustments are much easier than mechanical (especially FD, i hate mechanical FD adjustments). Together, we've only put 3-3.5k km on them though, so they might turn to shit, although i dont see why they would.
I really liked the 168, the 268 should only be better. I would do er9 on 268 with nice wheels (not less than 500-650$ range before shipping), gp5000 tyres, and you will have a wonderful bike.
On the lcr0x-d, it's a bit old now; i wouldnt buy a bike that maxes out at 28C, and T700 is on the ghetto side now.
Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
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Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
Sounds like a nice build! Just ordered two frames. Have bought EliteWheels Edge Ultralight 50 mm (21 mm internal, 28 mm external) from AliExpress for one of the frames and actually bought their Edge Gravel 45 mm wheel set (462 USD with discount code when I ordered) for the other frame as their dimensions regarding internal (24 mm) and external width (31 mm) rim width is more progressive and comparable to ENVE SES 4.5 (25/32 mm) and Reserve 40/44 (25/33-31 mm). Will pair both with GP 5000 28 mm. They will probably measure up around 30 mm on the gravel wheel set. Expecting to set both bikes up with 105 Di2 as the compared prices of the ERX/ER9 is not that much lower when shipped to my country (Denmark) with taxes - when you add the cost of crankset, chain, cassette and rotors.
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Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
We're here to help!
If you want to be at the forefront of aerodynamics, technology, life, the universe and everything, i suggest the 34mm rims in 58 from Peter cycles (look up his contact on the forum, it's like petercycles@something). I bought 5 such wheelsets from him last year. It then means that conti gp5000 in 32C is just under 32mm, so aero wise, your rim is like 105pc of the tyre, and you can impress the ladies with your bro knowledge of aerodynamics. They will cost you <600usd. Alternatively, not quite as wide, look up yuanan on the forum, they're the OEM for Elite wheels and you can customise anything you want. Ask Leon for his rim collection in pdf, he has a 31mm wide 54mm deep ultralight rim that will also be within budget. My sales rep from far sports is on maternity leave. I suggest pillar wing 20 spokes, cheaper than Spain CX ray, and according to people smarter than me, and assuming I understood correctly, they're just as good if not better. If you ask for no holes in the rim bed, you can skip rim tape and save some weight and make your life easier.
Have fun
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Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
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I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
To add to that, I got the same wheelset but with DT Swiss 350 hubs instead (849 USD in total) and they've been excellent. 1396g for 50mm deep, no internal holes made tubeless setup extremely easy.
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We're here to help!
If you want to be at the forefront of aerodynamics, technology, life, the universe and everything, i suggest the 34mm rims in 58 from Peter cycles (look up his contact on the forum, it's like petercycles@something). I bought 5 such wheelsets from him last year. It then means that conti gp5000 in 32C is just under 32mm, so aero wise, your rim is like 105pc of the tyre, and you can impress the ladies with your bro knowledge of aerodynamics. They will cost you <600usd. Alternatively, not quite as wide, look up yuanan on the forum, they're the OEM for Elite wheels and you can customise anything you want. Ask Leon for his rim collection in pdf, he has a 31mm wide 54mm deep ultralight rim that will also be within budget. My sales rep from far sports is on maternity leave. I suggest pillar wing 20 spokes, cheaper than Spain CX ray, and according to people smarter than me, and assuming I understood correctly, they're just as good if not better. If you ask for no holes in the rim bed, you can skip rim tape and save some weight and make your life easier.
Have fun
Excellent, thanks. I'm going to contact both today and see what they have, but I definitely like the idea of the 58s. Does anyone know if the 268 frame can take 32's? I assume that there will be less bulbing, so it is closer to a true 32. Im 85kg. If I was going with Yuanan, would the 20 spokes be sufficient for my heavy ass?
To be fair, I couldn't care less about the weight these days (aiming for only sub 9kg). I'm motivated to go out.
Just got through the first round of orders on Ali last night between the choice sale and codes build should come in just a tad under $2000.
I swore years ago I'd never build another bike, but coming back to cycling and seeing the ridiculous prices (the last time I was in was pre-covid), it finally feels like we are getting to a good point, especially due to now having a dedicated forum making it easier to weed out the good from the bad. 268 seems to tick many many boxes when combined with a wireless group, especially built on the base of the 168.
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Sounds like a nice build! Just ordered two frames. Have bought EliteWheels Edge Ultralight 50 mm (21 mm internal, 28 mm external) from AliExpress for one of the frames and actually bought their Edge Gravel 45 mm wheel set (462 USD with discount code when I ordered) for the other frame as their dimensions regarding internal (24 mm) and external width (31 mm) rim width is more progressive and comparable to ENVE SES 4.5 (25/32 mm) and Reserve 40/44 (25/33-31 mm). Will pair both with GP 5000 28 mm. They will probably measure up around 30 mm on the gravel wheel set. Expecting to set both bikes up with 105 Di2 as the compared prices of the ERX/ER9 is not that much lower when shipped to my country (Denmark) with taxes - when you add the cost of crankset, chain, cassette and rotors.
Good lord, i got the Ltwoo ER9 for $385 last night UK 105 di2 would have done me for almost a grand. if it was closer here I would also have gone the 105 . Will take a look at those wheels too didn't know about the edge that price is excellent on the Gravel.
I've got the FarSports Gravel wheels that seem to fit your requirements, 24mm internal width, 30mm external width, 50mm deep, built with Sapim CX-Ray spokes on Bitex hubs, final weight around 1450g and cost around 700 USD. I got them without any internal holes so no need to rim tape to run them tubeless with UD matte, stickerless finish, however you can also get them in gloss and other fininshes. 7,000 km's put on them so far and they've been great!
I had farsports in the past and nothing but good things to say about them, didn't realise the gravel rims would work on the road frames but this is interesting I think id go the same setup just with gloss finish. Thanks for the rec.
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Thanks Serge, you answered everything I had and probably every follow up question i had to boot also :) Will go with the ER9 and the 268.
Build is something like this:
Frame 268 (Racing Green) Order process is really easy and Chis's communication is great so far.
Group ER9
Magene PES cranks/power
Pass Quest rings
Ryet Saddle
Gp5000 (probably 30 but 32 if it fits)
Just wheels to figure out 50 to 60mm with internet 21+ and under 700 dollars and under 1600g would be good suggestions welcome.... must have shiny finish preferably no decals as going no logos with the design.
Order this week but wont be building till first week of June so ill try to share some photos
I got them during the 11.11 sales, but I have a set of Farsports Hypers with 24int/30ext, 58 depth, with carbon spokes for $700. Weight is 1300g. Just mounted up some GP5000 S 28/30 that measure 29.5/31.3 inflated. I'm super happy with them.
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Good lord, i got the Ltwoo ER9 for $385 last night UK 105 di2 would have done me for almost a grand. if it was closer here I would also have gone the 105 . Will take a look at those wheels too didn't know about the edge that price is excellent on the Gravel.
That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD including crankset, cassette, chain and rotors.
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That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD including crankset, cassette, chain and rotors.
Yeah, some people here have voodoo skills when it comes to finding deals on groupsets. Don't spend 650$ on the eR9, i can't really tell you how, but people are spending less than that. I paid 455 for mine last year.
I got them during the 11.11 sales, but I have a set of Farsports Hypers with 24int/30ext, 58 depth, with carbon spokes for $700. Weight is 1300g. Just mounted up some GP5000 S 28/30 that measure 29.5/31.3 inflated. I'm super happy with them.
Shipping included? Where do you live?
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That's a nice deal, best ER9-deal I can find right now on AliExpress is 644 USD. 105 DI2 is 1030 USD, including crankset, cassette, chain, and rotors.
Yeh i found it on a shop called 80 Designer Store. they had an on page coupon plus the ali homepage had another code that worked and brought it down. It was a nightmare navigating ali and prices jumped around as I'm out my country.
Def having the crank inc with the Di2 would bring it closer, but as I needed a power meter anyway, I offset that with the Magene power crank, 2 Passquest chainrings for 58 USD, found the 105 cassette on Merlin for 40 (GBP) + ZTTO bb86 + battery bung + rotors... So i think I'm in for about 800 total on the drivetrain side so it does add up. Would have enjoyed cost benefits mechanical but its just funny having shoved it through handlebars in the past that I'm willing to not do it again is worth a few hundred extra haha
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Does anyone know if the 268 frame can take 32's?
Im 85kg. If I was going with Yuanan, would the 20 spokes be sufficient for my heavy ass?
The VB 268 clearly says it takes 32C. The only new frame i can think of that doesn't take 32C is the SP cycle 25 SL something, only takes 30C, and i'm unhappy about that.
If road, then 20 spokes should be fine. If gravel, maybe ask Yuanan, but if steel spokes, then maybe go more conservative and take 24? Yuanan does 20/20 on carbon spokes.
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The VB 268 clearly says it takes 32C. The only new frame i can think of that doesn't take 32C is the SP cycle 25 SL something, only takes 30C, and i'm unhappy about that.
If road, then 20 spokes should be fine. If gravel, maybe ask Yuanan, but if steel spokes, then maybe go more conservative and take 24? Yuanan does 20/20 on carbon spokes.
Cheers Serge, have contacted Yaunan and Peter just waiting on the final proposals. Liking the look of the Yuanan.... everything else has been ordered was going to build it all myself but will just spend the little extra for a builder to get it all dialed in asap when everything gets here :)
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Hello,
just finished my build.
At first I wanted to build my bike around Hygge Model S frame. So I started to look for information about this frame and found this forum. After reading this forum and watching Pattys videos I decided to go for Velobuild VB-268.
I choose painted variant. Frame showed 1040 g on scales in size 58. I didn't waight rest of the stuff (fork, seat post and integrated handlebar).
I build my bike with 12sp Ultegra Di2 and Elite Edge wheels. Whole bike came out 8,2 kgs redy to ride with pedals, bottle cages and computer mount. I saw bikes weighing 7,8 kg on this thread. I don't know how you manage to achieve a weight of less than 8 kg. Any advices on how to get the weight down?
Building a bike was pretty straight forward except brakes - I can't properly align calipersto get rid of rubbing.
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Sounds like brake mounts aren't properly faced
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225g cassette, tpu tubes, carbon crankset, and weighing without pedals. The holy trinity of weight saving. Yes, I listed 4 items. My bike is 7.5 without pedals with deeper and wider rims. Ah, a 3d printed carbon saddle weighs 160g and costs 50usd. The cassette is also 50 USD. The carbon crankset is 130-200usd. Tpu tubes are under five bucks each.
Nice bike! The brake rub is a dark art. Ride a bit and re align. After a couple of rides stuff tends to fall into place (assuming you use the brakes, ie elevation).
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Size 56
-Nepest Maui 45 (1282g/54t)
-SRAM Force eTap 1x
-Pass Quest 50t Chainring
-Quarq/SRAM Spider PM
-Nova Ride OSPW
-Cybrei Ceramic BB86 DUB
-Continental GP5000 28c
-Ride Now TPU Tubes (36g)
-Carbon Saddle (102g)
-Look Keo Blade Ceramic Pedals
-Arundel Gecko Bar Tape
-Cyclowax PreWaxed Chain
7.2kg / 7.6kg with everything
Only ridden around the block for photos. Rear caliper mount wasn't faced properly, but everything else was easy to build.
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Nice bokeh shots of a beautiful bike!
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Hello,
just finished my build.
At first I wanted to build my bike around Hygge Model S frame. So I started to look for information about this frame and found this forum. After reading this forum and watching Pattys videos I decided to go for Velobuild VB-268.
I choose painted variant. Frame showed 1040 g on scales in size 58. I didn't waight rest of the stuff (fork, seat post and integrated handlebar).
I build my bike with 12sp Ultegra Di2 and Elite Edge wheels. Whole bike came out 8,2 kgs redy to ride with pedals, bottle cages and computer mount. I saw bikes weighing 7,8 kg on this thread. I don't know how you manage to achieve a weight of less than 8 kg. Any advices on how to get the weight down?
Building a bike was pretty straight forward except brakes - I can't properly align calipersto get rid of rubbing.
Nice build! How did you mount the Di2-battery in the seatpost?
TPU tubes and a cheap 3D printed mesh saddle would probably bring you down 200-250g in total.
Just type "Ryet 3D carbon saddle" in AliExpress, just bought the 115g Pro Stealth II knockoff.
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Nice build! How did you mount the Di2-battery in the seatpost?
TPU tubes and a cheap 3D printed mesh saddle would probably bring you down 200-250g in total.
Just type "Ryet 3D carbon saddle" in AliExpress, just bought the 115g Pro Stealth II knockoff.
I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
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I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
Thanks. I just purchased a battery-holder for the SL7 from "SHOUTAI BIKE Store" on AlieExpress (27 USD). I will keep you posted if it works out, but probably not going to receive the frame until late may.
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First impression video is live.
My VeloBuild 268 Is FINISHED - First Ride Impressions
https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR
Also, I've had some problems with random creaking. Initially I thought it was the saddle rail clamp. Then the cables being routed into the headset. And finally the bottom bracket. Nope. It was the seatpost clamp. I torqued the clamp a little more than I usually do (7nm instead of 5nm) and it was still creaking. A lot. The solution was adding a bit of electrical tape around seat post clamp where the clamp seats into the frame, and adding another strip of tape along the area of the seatpost that contacts the clamp. Problem solved.
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In your Video you said, that there is a significant difference between this frame and a higher priced frame.
As someone who rides his Scott CR1 in the last 14 years and doesn’t ride a lot of different road bikes, I can not imagine what the difference is. Would it be possible to elaborate this?
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In your Video you said, that there is a significant difference between this frame and a higher priced frame.
As someone who rides his Scott CR1 in the last 14 years and doesn’t ride a lot of different road bikes, I can not imagine what the difference is. Would it be possible to elaborate this?
For clarity, are you saying you cannot imagine the differences because there aren't any? Or because you have ridden the same bike for 14 years?
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I can not imagine them because I have not riden different frames in the last years.
There was a huge difference going from aluminium to the CR1, somehow stiffer yet more compliant.
I am curious if the 268 and a different frame would be another wow for me or if I should safe for a more expensive frame. Test rides would be the best way to explore this but that’s not so easy.
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Build done, except for missing bar tape. Er9, Magene p505, edge 45mm. Size 58 comes at 8.05 kg as you see it on the picture. Test ride is next.
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There is no standardization in testing here. He compares bike ABC with different groupsets, bars, and wheels (incl tyres type, size, wheel depth, spoke type) plus a whole bunch of variables with what looks to be minimal testing time (first impressions). Unless someone sets up bikes with exactly the same components and A/B tests them back to back in set conditions, then isolating and commenting on the frame's "performance" would be mighty difficult.
Correct. First impression video and then long-term video per usual. Even if I were to conduct standardized test, I would get called out for doing "bro science" as other YouTuber's have. Thankfully the support of this very forum over the years is what allows me to continue and make content. I'm very grateful.
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Correct. First impression video and then long-term video per usual. Even if I were to conduct standardized test, I would get called out for doing "bro science" as other YouTuber's have. Thankfully the support of this very forum over the years is what allows me to continue and make content. I'm very grateful.
Using the same wheels, could you do a NorCal kind of video on a loop you know well, swapping 2 or 3 bikes? You have to use the same wheels for any credible kind of comparison. Your times would be interesting, but equally interesting would be your impression.
I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame.
I'd like to be proven wrong, because I can afford to pay 1500 for a frame, or 5000 for that matter, but i care about relative value.
Last, i saw you have a colnago video, any chance you would test ride that with your own wheels for comparison?
Colnago Vs velobuild video would break the internet :D
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Norcal style "aero testing" is a waste of time
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Norcal style "aero testing" is a waste of time
Very constructive comment, i guess you didn't pick your username randomly.
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
There should not be any wheel compatibility problems with Mavic Speedrelease as the axle dimensions are equal to normal thru axles. That said I was very close to getting the 168 in stead just to get rid of it.
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What a beauty, really gorgeous looking bike.
How was mounting the calipers? Well faced? Also gone er9 on mine, you use the included adapters or did you need to buy a separate set?
Thank you! I used the adapters that came with the er9. 140mm rear. That might be why I don't have clearance issues. However, no space on that frame to tighten/loosen the rear caliper to bracket bolt for er9. Once it's on the frame, I can only access the lower bolt. That was enough for me to get proper alignment.
No rubbing on brakes. I managed to align the calipers without any further actions on the frame.
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Using the same wheels, could you do a NorCal kind of video on a loop you know well, swapping 2 or 3 bikes? You have to use the same wheels for any credible kind of comparison. Your times would be interesting, but equally interesting would be your impression.
I take issue with the "because it's 500usd it can never compete with a 1500usd frame", given the 268 is t800&1000, EPS moulded, proven geometry & shape: it's latest best practice afaik. Now yoeleo or the likes are, afaik, just taking oem frames and branding them for a premium, just less of a premium than western brands. Having looked at their specs sheet, manufacturing methods, reputation for QC, the reason why I don't buy them is because I don't see that my money would go into the frame.
I'd like to be proven wrong, because I can afford to pay 1500 for a frame, or 5000 for that matter, but i care about relative value.
Last, i saw you have a colnago video, any chance you would test ride that with your own wheels for comparison?
Colnago Vs velobuild video would break the internet :D
Based on the hundreds of messages I received over the years, the typical viewer of my channel isn't looking for VeloBuild to be an equal alternative to one of the major brands. What they want is assurance their money won't be stolen, and that their collarbones won't be broken from a random catastrophic failure. Basically is the frame good enough all things considered. I try to keep my videos light-hearted and sensible. Save engineering and race opinions for the engineers and racers.
Confirmation bias and cognitive dissonance is human nature. Whether VeloBuild or Specialized, we all want to believe we've made the best purchase. No harm in that.
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Very constructive comment, i guess you didn't pick your username randomly.
I've explained how it's bad like 5 times, cba for a 6th so just look at peak torque or dan bigham with ineos
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I don't really get worked up by "testing" that norcal does. He doesnt make scientific claims and seems to just be making videos about the testing that he does to try and decide what equipment he is going to run. He even says stuff like "i think i get better traction over crappy roads on wider tires and therefore for my riding ____ is the best for me." Is that theoretically valid argument? No. Grip on an ideal surface is only a function of normal force and CRR, contact patch has nothing to do with it. In the real world is he right? Maybe?
Reality is that this stuff is really complicated and trying to create repeatable results that are distinct enough to make an unqualified claim is hard even with better experimental design and better instrumentation. You hear that from Peak Torque now too in the way he discusses results. Its a change from a few years ago despite his experimental design and instrumentation being among the best of the popular you tubers.
This is a very long winded way of saying that I think experiences are still worth sharing and discussing even if they aren't "scientific" as long as you acknowledge the limitations of your insights.
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Thanks for the support yall. I appreciate the input over the years.
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I think that learning if the price is worth the headache is way more important for these bikes than aero testing or whatever and you do a pretty great job of that
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
Some people had similar problems with the 168 (se the post on the 168-thread from september 16, 2023) - but the solution was to add a microspacer (1 mm perhaps) between the frame and lowest spacer (the one that fits the frame and also comes painted as the frame), to get a better compression. I think the problem may be that the spacer touches the frame more than the bearing and elevating it 1 mm from the frame solves that.
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
so far so good for me. I have the two axles on my 268 and one extra that lives on the trainer for ease. The front comes on and off really easy and quick. The back is also not bad but I find that I need to pull it out a bit after it finished unthreading to get it off but no big deal. Highly recommend getting a spare for the trainer as I personally wouldn't like having to pull the whole thing in and out to mount to a trainer as it takes a bit of push to insert the axle for the first time but easy once it's set.
First impression video is live.
My VeloBuild 268 Is FINISHED - First Ride Impressions
https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR (https://youtu.be/-we6CsAEaQY?si=f13auTeXKcUV-wwR)
Awesome build and videos as usual Patty!
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Test rode the bike today. Feels great so far. Only issue that came from the ride is the fork plug seems to have moved a bit. I had headset play during 2nd half of the ride.
I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.
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There should not be any wheel compatibility problems with Mavic Speedrelease as the axle dimensions are equal to normal thru axles. That said I was very close to getting the 168 in stead just to get rid of it.
I was reading that if a wheelset that was 12mm and 15mm compatible (by changing the end cap) then the Speed release might be an issue but maybe that is less common of an issue for road wheels.
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I had the same problem with the expander that VB provided an a similar but longer one. I then bought the SL7 replica expander and tightened it to 8nm using carbon paste. Now it is fixed, no play at all after 1000km with bad roads and some cobblestones. I would suggest to try this route, because you were able to build it without play at first. Not to mention that a micro spacer with head set play might eat up the fork very fast.
Why the SL7 clone? What's the functional difference between a SL7 clone (-+25usd) and a cheap, long expander like this one (3usd, 90mm long) (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S1a84d8b94cf74450b935bde78cfbd202i.png)
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I'm no expert in mechanics. But the expanding mechanism is obviously different.
More important is my practical experience with both. The one you posted, did not work with my bike (carbon paste and up to 10nm). The specialized replica just worked. I had good experience with the normal original specialized expander, so I went this route having in mind that some extra stability could not do any harm.
There may be other options that work fine too. Just reflecting on my own personal experience with my bike here.
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I did install a longer plug (same design as VB supplied but 50mm) and tighten it down to 9 NM. I am surprised that it moved.
Do you guys also add carbon fiber grip paste? What torque do you put so that it does not move? I would like to know what you guys do to make sure it is secured in the fork.
I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore.
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.
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I have used 10 if not 12nm on some compression plugs on some steerers, IN SITU. ie, with the stem, spacers & all already in position. The way i see it, that way, the probability that you crack the steerer is negligible, because it's working against the stem. I've also been seen to tighten the $hit out of the stem cap to remove any play. Once the stem bolts are tightened to spec, i release the stem cap tension down to 5nm or less, because at that point it's not doing anything anymore.
It took me a while to understand headset shenanigans, but once i did, i felt more empowered with my torque wrench.
Obviously, you need to have empty space between the top of your compression plug / steerer (some plugs have a lip above the steerer, others dont) and your stem cap. If there's no space / play, then you can't tighten the column.
Also, if the spacer that sits on top of the frame makes contact / too much contact with the frame, then that's a parasitic force that is preventing you from tightening the column properly, force isn't supposed to be applied there.
These plastic spacers can look like they're way off the frame before compression. After compression though, i often found them to fit just right.
Have you seen improvements following adding fiber paste? I think that to roughen the inner surface could help get traction.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
people have had success fixing slipping seat posts with fiberglass cloth (in roll format). I think I'd try a bit of duct tape on that rail, the kind that has some cloth waved through. 9nm sounds right, idk if i'd want to go much higher.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
This clamp needs high torque. 12-15 NM are needed in my experience (own risk, I do not have official advise from VB). But you have to carefully align the rails with the clamp before. The clamps are full metal, so no worries here. Rails are fully carbon, so no big worries here, too.
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I've reached VB for torque specs.
That's what I get:
Seatpost mount 5.5Nm
Saddle rails clamp 8.0Nm
Handlebar/stem bolts 5.0Nm
Expander plug 8.0Nm
Computer mount 3.0Nm
Brake caliper mounts 5.0Nm front and 8.0Nm Rear
I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.
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Has anyone else experienced any issues with the seat clamp? Mine isn't securely holding the seat rail at all. I've torqued it down to 9Nm, but I still feel a pinching force on the carbon rails, which doesn't seem right.
In the picture you can see the outside of the clamp only touches the rail on the top.
I was asked if I needed a seat clamp for round (aluminium/steel/titanium) or oval (carbon) seat rails, maybe you got the "wrong" one?
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I can see that I am not the only one having issues with rear caliper mount. How do you guys manage it? Do you have any clever tips to align it? Usual methods i.e. tightening mounting bolts with a brake engaged with or without metal shim doesn't work.
Here are my steps, assuming after a fresh and proper brake bleed:
Step 1: Re-seat/Recess the pistons fully back into the caliper. Very important step.
Step 2: Loosen the caliper bolts.
Step 3: Firmly engage the brake to the rotor. I usually squeeze about 4-5 times to fully engage the pistons.
Step 4: Torque calipers bolts while brakes are engaged. Release brakes.
Step 5: Spin the wheel and inspect any rotor imbalances or brake rub. A white strip of paper behind the caliper really helps.
Step 6: Slightly loosen the caliper bolts and use metal shim.
Step 7: If that doesn't work you can also use a very thin plastic/paper one sided shim on either side of the rotor. Rotor shims can also be helpful if the wheel hub in general is too far offset/off-center at either side.
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Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?
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Hi,
I have a question before I shorten the fork. Do I have to leave the fork 5.5mm shorter than the top of the stem to be able to adjust the headset? That seems to be a lot. Am I making a mistake?
That metal lip of the plug is going to sit at the top of the steerer column. You have to cut that steerer so that there's space to compress the whole system. A few mm more won't make a difference, but measure twice cut once, ofc, you do want the stem to clamp on the steerer and not half void...
If that's unclear (it used to be unclear to me), there are YouTube videos that explain everything.
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Just did my first ride with the 268, and it feels great. I barely feel side winds (also because of the 38mm depth wheels), which is lovely.
Compared to my speeder bike, it feels a lot more stable and comfortable (heavily dictated by the spacers and less aggressive geometry).
In terms of building obstacles, there were no true issues, although I did have to drill the FD guide in the frame, so my shifting cable would fit.
Will get back after I did more rides with the bike.
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Clean build, thanks for posting! your saddle is tilted funny and your saddle bag is an eye sore though :p
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Clean build, thanks for posting! your saddle is tilted funny and your saddle bag is an eye sore though :p
I actually stopped to change my saddle angle, which on the pictures indeed looks weird. Sorry about the saddlebag; learned it the hard way to have some additional gear with me at all times.
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Anyone measure how much clearance they have with a 32c tire? If this is gonna be my do it all frame, fitting a 35mm tire is essential for me.
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Build done, except for missing bar tape. Er9, Magene p505, edge 45mm. Size 58 comes at 8.05 kg as you see it on the picture. Test ride is next.
Hello can I ask you what are your height in order to order a frame?
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Just did my first ride with the 268, and it feels great.
Clean build, looks really nice! Just wanted to comment on your saddle position as well, then saw that it was already discussed :D
Also what's that thing on your back wheels spoke?
Thinking about getting myself a 268 frame as well. What's the color of yours again? Some silky white?
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Clean build, looks really nice! Just wanted to comment on your saddle position as well, then saw that it was already discussed :D
Also what's that thing on your back wheels spoke?
Thinking about getting myself a 268 frame as well. What's the color of yours again? Some silky white?
It is a sticker I have not removed from the wheel. Thanks for pointing that out. The color is Pearl White (Glossy). You can find pictures of the identical frame earlier in this topic.
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Yeah, just saw those. Was actually looking for a colorful option but that silky look is really growing on me :D
So many choices ...
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Yeah, just saw those. Was actually looking for a colorful option but that silky look is really growing on me :D
So many choices ...
My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.
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Sounds fun, got any pics of those?
And yeah, I totally get you. I'm just a sucker for colors. Resale value is a good point as well but it isn't a high priority for me.
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Sounds fun, got any pics of those?
And yeah, I totally get you. I'm just a sucker for colors. Resale value is a good point as well but it isn't a high priority for me.
I don't know about resale value... I expect the resale value of my 500EUR china frames to be 0 in every color...
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I don't know about resale value... I expect the resale value of my 500EUR china frames to be 0 in every color...
Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
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Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
You'll probably have to pay when you bring it to the recycling center :o
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I think that's less and less true every year that passes. Yes, a pool noodle with rough carbon strands inside from 5y ago is going to be hard to get excited over. But take a frame from last year that's fully integrated, and you have something that should be future proof enough for quite a few use cases. A frame that only takes 25C is dead. But 28C is still fairly current, although i wouldn't buy anything new that can't take 32C.
I'm trying to sell my VB GF002 from last year and the issue i have is the mechanical disc brakes. The frame with nice wheels & tyres rides great, but people want hydraulic brakes (and they're right). Ah and the fact I painted it myself doesn't help, the colour is a bit polarizing.
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Resale value of 500$ Chinese frame LMAO :)
I've seen used VB frames sell locally for close to 80% MSRP so any considerations like what paint to get and so on, aren't trivial if you do want to resell and upgrade later. Part of it is that the value is already there to begin with so people who may have just been looking at 2K priced frames see this as a steal, and the other part I think is the trust/awareness factor. By this I mean, oh someone locally in North America for example bought this frame, and they like it, and it's safe and performs, etc, etc.
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Update on my 268
Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.
-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.
-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.
Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.
-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.
Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!
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My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.
Counter point. I got my 168 painted in white with pink logos and a blue fork. I have zero regrets after over a year with this paint job. I bought an open mold because it was cheap and gave me the option of custom paint. I don’t have nor did I ever think of resale value because it’s an open mold and who is buying second hand open mold frames? I wanted something fun and unique.
My point is: get the paint you want. Forget about resale value. Get the paint job that excites you and makes you want to ride your bike. We’re not talking about $5000 frames and $2000 custom paint jobs. Mine cost an extra $50 to go wild and do custom logos. The whole package was like $650 before shipping. Have fun with it. I can say with 100% certainty that I would have regretted getting a black frame. Part of the fun with an open mold is the custom paint options. That’s my opinion at least. I didn’t see the point of getting a plain matte black frame when custom paint is so cheap.
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Really wish velobuild designed the 268 with the same seatpost as the 168 so they could offer the option for zero setback or setback and existing 168 owners could order a zero setback
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Update on my fork plug slipping. I added a good amount of carbon paste to the plug and inside the tube. No change. It slips even more I think.
I have now removed it, cleaned everything with alcohol and will see.
@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.
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I would try a different plug, they're very cheap on AliExpress. You may also want to try fiberglass cloth, you can probably find a roll in a local diy store for cheap. People have sometimes used that to create some friction with slipping seatposts. How much torque are you applying?
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The SL7 replica plug worked fine for me.
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Double 268 build coming up (when I get the groupsets (105 Di2) and wheels). One 54 cm in Silver Chameleon (for a friend) and one 56 cm in Blue Chameleon (for me), both with black contrast color on the inside of fork and rear triangle. Really pleased with the quality of paint job, no air bubbles, trapped dust etc.
To be continued :)
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@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.
Neco Headset Expander - Size/length Large.
I never ever use the provided expander plug on any budget frameset.
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I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.
I can now confirm that the SL7 Di2 battery mount works for the 268 :)
Can't put the link in, so have added a screenshot:
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Well, you got me ... I just placed an order for a 268 frame myself :D
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Just starting to build my Vb 268 using the Ltwoo Electronic groupset. What grommets are y’all using for the front/rear derailleur wires where they exit the frame?
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what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit
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what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit
Going by height only is not recommended for proper bike sizing. At very least you want to measure inseam length as well. If you really want to get it right, you'd measure leg length in two parts (ankle to knee and knee to hip bone), torso length, shoulder width, and arm length. This would give you the most important contact points to the frame.
However, if this is all you can get, then by height only I'd say a 52 frame would be appropriate, which would be a S for velobuild.
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also flexibility, weight, weight distribution, core and upper body strenght
how does her current bike fit her? too short/long, tall/low? best starting point is your current bike to see what changes might suit you and which general directions you want to go in for the new one
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Can she go to a bike shop and try a road bike or two? That would take out a lot of guesswork. Cable integration and one piece cockpit are the enemies of an uncertain bike fit, too... And a gf in an uncomfortable position is an unhappy gf. Unhappy gfs are fire breathing dragons. Dragons are scary. Like snakes, but bigger and with fire.
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Can she go to a bike shop and try a road bike or two? That would take out a lot of guesswork. Cable integration and one piece cockpit are the enemies of an uncertain bike fit, too... And a gf in an uncomfortable position is an unhappy gf. Unhappy gfs are fire breathing dragons. Dragons are scary. Like snakes, but bigger and with fire.
Honestly at that point might as well just buy a lower-end bike at the shop. Personally I think chiner bikes are most suitable people who have their fit, mech-ing etc. figured out.
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Update on my 268
Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.
-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.
-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.
Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.
-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.
Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!
I also encountered the issue with the 7x9 saddle clamp. I reached out to Velobuild and they sent me a new one. I have not received it yet but I'll comment once I have it.
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-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.
I also encountered the issue with the 7x9 saddle clamp. I reached out to Velobuild and they sent me a new one. I have not received it yet but I'll comment once I have it.
You guys have pictures of that? I'm running a 7x9 rail saddle myself and would like to do that on the 268 as well.
Is the 7x9 rail clamp included automatically or did you have to ask them to put in the box as well?
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651)
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Anecdotally I've been using the 7x9 clamps on a RYET 3D saddle since complete the build together and no issues so far.
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Thank you for the link. Must have missed that. That for sure does not look right. I don't think higher torque would help seat it correctly. Rather destroy the clamp or the seat clamps as it presses against it oddly.
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I have two different Ryet carbon saddles on my two 268 frames. On one of the saddle the rails measure 9 mm high, on the other 11 mm.
I was asked by Velobuild if I needed a special clamp for carbon rails and was send two sets. They fit fine on the one with 7x9 mm (picture 1) but terrible on the one with 11 mm (picture 2). I just don't think that the side clamping mechanism in general is great on these kind of carbon rails. Should have done my research better before I ordered the Ryet knock off of the Pro Stealth II.
I'm on the look out for a clamp that goes closer to 11 mm than the one I've got.
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I have two different Ryet carbon saddles on my two 268 frames. On one of the saddle the rails measure 9 mm high, on the other 11 mm.
I was asked by Velobuild if I needed a special clamp for carbon rails and was send two sets. They fit fine on the one with 7x9 mm (picture 1) but terrible on the one with 11 mm (picture 2). I just don't think that the side clamping mechanism in general is great on these kind of carbon rails. Should have done my research better before I ordered the Ryet knock off of the Pro Stealth II.
I'm on the look out for a clamp that goes closer to 11 mm than the one I've got.
7x11 rails not fitting into a 7x9 clamp?! Big surprise! :o
No but honestly, why would you expect them to fit? You sometimes get away with it on a system that clamps from above. But those from the side never really work with anything but the specs they came with.
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7x11 rails not fitting into a 7x9 clamp?! Big surprise! :o
No but honestly, why would you expect them to fit? You sometimes get away with it on a system that clamps from above. But those from the side never really work with anything but the specs they came with.
That is exactly what I just said. And even though it measures 7x11 mm it is sold as 7x9 mm, so you have your "big surprise" right there
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I posted a picture here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4605.msg58651.html#msg58651
They include clamps for both 7x9 and 7x7 by default. Currently, I'm using the 7x7 without any issues.
Yeah that's how my saddle rails are positioned too :-\
I've done some longer endurance rides and a couple of spirited efforts, but no fast group rides/races yet. Not until I can resolve the clamp issue or source a saddle with 7x7 rails.
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Does anyone know what size the headset bearing are?
I know from Patrick that FSA no.69 will work but that has limited availability so I am looking at the Ritchey Logic-E but am not sure if I should order the ZS56/28.6, ZS55/28.6 or IS52/28.6?
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Does anyone know what size the headset bearing are?
52mm outer, 40mm inner, 7mm height, 45°
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I have "upgraded" the headset expander plug and compression ring /base ring (the one with the holes to run cables through), so it matches the new version for the SL 7. However the new compression ring / base ring is a bit lower/thinner than the old one, meaning that the headset cover now sits so low that it is not clearing the frame. A solution could be to add a micro spacer or two (.25 mm each), to lift the headset cover back in to place, but I will need to cut them in a C-shape to make room for the cables. Another solution is of course to just use the one included with the frame. Anyone who has a neat solution, or tried with the micro spacers?
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I have "upgraded" the headset expander plug and compression ring /base ring (the one with the holes to run cables through), so it matches the new version for the SL 7. However the new compression ring / base ring is a bit lower/thinner than the old one, meaning that the headset cover now sits so low that it is not clearing the frame. A solution could be to add a micro spacer or two (.25 mm each), to lift the headset cover back in to place, but I will need to cut them in a C-shape to make room for the cables. Another solution is of course to just use the one included with the frame. Anyone who has a need solution, or tried with the micro spacers?
I used the expander with the parts that were delivered with the frame. Works fine, clocked 1k km without issues.
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I used the expander with the parts that were delivered with the frame. Works fine, clocked 1k km without issues.
Thank you
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Update on my slipping plug. I cleaned everything with alcohol and torqued it to 10nm. It's not slipping anymore. Well in place
However, I am getting a clunking noise from the hamdlebar from when I ride. It clunks when I go over bumps or when I sprint and rock the bar a bit more. I have disassembled everything many times, torqued the top bolt many times and also torqued the stem bolts to recommended 5NM.
When I rétorque everything, the sound goes away but quickly comes back, like if something loosens up, but there is no play that I can feel in the headset.
I am running out of ideas of what can cause the clunking noise. Any idea is more than welcome. I am getting crazy with that sound when riding.
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My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.
decals? Aren't decals simply stickers that typically have a logo on them? How would they change the complete bike color?
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decals? Aren't decals simply stickers that typically have a logo on them? How would they change the complete bike color?
There are very nice ones. Especially with patterns to avoid a simple colour and which are more than just stickers. They are decals where only letters or design sticks to the frame. I'm looking for places to get them but couldn't find anything with geometric layout or artistic without being too colourful. But was able to find some with flowers ahaha
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Some love a black bike, some don't, Adding a single logo to a black bike can change its appearance dramatically.
Beyond that, a bike scheme like the attached can be done with decals, for eg.
I used inkscape to make my decals, and found a guy locally to cut the vinyl. Skills are freedom.
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I completely agree that some decals can completely change the look of a plain black frame. A plain frame in a single color looks unfinished or lacking, similar to a car without a badge. Therefore, I appreciate some design.
Regarding the image you linked, it seems like the white and blue stripes in the back of the frame are painted? I'm not entirely sure, but could you stretch the vinyl around such curves?
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If anyone has a good source for these type of decals please share. I searched etsy but the ones which look cooler are not decals but frame protectors, and I'd rather have proper cut decals than a 'big partially transparent sticker'
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decals? Aren't decals simply stickers that typically have a logo on them? How would they change the complete bike color?
"Decals" is a bit of an ambiguous term. They can mean "just" stickers that you actually just stick on your frame (and can remove them without much hassle/anybody noticing). They could also be stenciled decals that you apply on the frame during painting process and be removed at the end to have the name/logo/symbol painted on the frame. Like you would have with the names of all major manufacturers.
I eventually went down the lane of a full custom painting with decals and all. Was good fun messing around with colors and styles. Attached is a mockup I built myself to present my idea to velobuild. I also included the font and the logo as PNG for them to print. Let's see if the final result will look anything like I imagined it :D
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If anyone has a good source for these type of decals please share. I searched etsy but the ones which look cooler are not decals but frame protectors, and I'd rather have proper cut decals than a 'big partially transparent sticker'
Check on your eBay or Craigslist equivalent for a shop that does vinyl cutting for car nerds. The vinyl on my frame is made for cars, resists UV, washing and stuff. Any car nerd will know exactly the type, I forgot the name.
If you want a design you like you'll probably have to either design it yourself, or pay someone to design exactly what you want if you're allergic to graphic design.
The decals for the whole bike cost me ten euro. If I had to pay someone to design it though...
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Did anyone build the bike with 2by mechanical shifting? I'm struggling with routing the cables through the headset. The problem is that the exit port for front brake is on the right side of the steering tube for some reason so I end up with 3 cables on one side and 1 cable on the other side of the steering tube wich results in steering pulling to the right when assembled.
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Did anyone build the bike with 2by mechanical shifting? I'm struggling with routing the cables through the headset. The problem is that the exit port for front brake is on the right side of the steering tube for some reason so I end up with 3 cables on one side and 1 cable on the other side of the steering tube wich results in steering pulling to the right when assembled.
Some hold the cable with adhesive tape on the fork (at mid-height) to keep it on the right side. Also make sure that your cable has not passed behind the fork to come back in front
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Some hold the cable with adhesive tape on the fork (at mid-height) to keep it on the right side. Also make sure that your cable has not passed behind the fork to come back in front
Do you mean pass front brake hose to the left in front of the steering tube and hold it there with a tape?
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Do you mean pass front brake hose to the left in front of the steering tube and hold it there with a tape?
With this technique, your pipe will be on the right side
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First of two 268 builds now complete.
This one is a chameleon silver in size 54 for a friend.
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 R7150, 11-34, 50/34, 172,5 cm with 160 cm rotors.
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D-printed mesh-saddle
Wheels: Elite Edge Gravel 45 mm (internal 24 mm, external 31 mm)
Tyres: Continental GP 5000 in 28 mm (meassures 29,5 on the rims)
Tubes: RideNow TPU (36g each)
Complete build 7,75 kg w/o pedals.
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First of two 268 builds now complete.
This one is a chameleon silver in size 54 for a friend.
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 R7150, 11-34, 50/34, 172,5 cm with 160 cm rotors.
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D-printed mesh-saddle
Wheels: Elite Edge Gravel 45 mm (internal 24 mm, external 31 mm)
Tyres: Continental GP 5000 in 28 mm (meassures 29,5 on the rims)
Tubes: RideNow TPU (36g each)
Complete build 7,75 kg w/o pedals.
Thanks for the post. Looks great! Even considering this color now over pearl white (with black custom decals). I think I need a 54 frame as well. Could you let me know how tall your friend is (i know, not the only relevant metric).
Also got a few questions:
What is de weight of those wheels? I think I'll get wheels less wide (lighter?).
How hard was the build?
Is this the standard handlebar from Velobuild?
Kind regards!
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Thanks for the post. Looks great! Even considering this color now over pearl white (with black custom decals). I think I need a 54 frame as well. Could you let me know how tall your friend is (i know, not the only relevant metric).
Also got a few questions:
What is de weight of those wheels? I think I'll get wheels less wide (lighter?).
How hard was the build?
Is this the standard handlebar from Velobuild?
Kind regards!
Thanks for your comment. The chameleon pops quite a bit in the sun, just so you are aware. The other one in blue chameleon does as well, probably a bit more disco vibe than expected, but you only live once :D
My friend is 180 cm, long torso. Stack of the frame is pretty aggressive as you can see by the number of spacers he needed to get a comfortable position. I have bought af 56 cm for myself (187 cm).
The wheel set weighs 1420g without rim tape, tolerances seems very nice, end caps are a really good snug fit. The standard ones are fairly wide compared to others, 21 internal and 28 internal, so would not be a bad choice as well, and you can get them a bit deeper than the 45 mm's also. The build proces was not that hard, but probably way worse if you are to route mechanical gear. Cut the steerer 6 mm below the stem. Did all wiring without a routing tool and didn't really need it. The handlebar is the standard one, yes. 400/100 mm, but the reach seems a bit longer as the hood-position extends a bit further from where the stem "ends".
cheers
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My friend is 180 cm, long torso. Stack of the frame is pretty aggressive as you can see by the number of spacers he needed to get a comfortable position.
How many spacers do you want?
Yes.
Nice build!
What's the saddle to BB distance? if i were to buy a 268, i'd probably buy a 54 because i'm 184, but all legs, and that results in awkward bike fits.
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How many spacers do you want?
Yes.
Nice build!
What's the saddle to BB distance? if i were to buy a 268, i'd probably buy a 54 because i'm 184, but all legs, and that results in awkward bike fits.
??? I am 180/181 cm tall and the saddle height is 82/83, I have more legs than bust. only 58. with a 350mm seat post, there would be 6-7cm left inside the frame. too few. as well as having a disproportionate saddle/handlebar height difference.
How do you ride on a 54 frame?
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How many spacers do you want?
Yes.
Nice build!
What's the saddle to BB distance? if i were to buy a 268, i'd probably buy a 54 because i'm 184, but all legs, and that results in awkward bike fits.
iif my 218 breaks....I would buy the largest I can get away with the seat post slammed to the ground like I did with the 218. I am all torso with short legs. So I want to know the same thing. but on the lowest the seat can go.
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Current center of BB to top-of-saddle distance (following the seat tube angle) = 74 cm
Lowest distance when seatpost is slammed = 71,5 cm
On a size 54 cm
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This is very helpful information. What is the min / max saddle height on your 56 size frame?
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"Decals" is a bit of an ambiguous term. They can mean "just" stickers that you actually just stick on your frame (and can remove them without much hassle/anybody noticing). They could also be stenciled decals that you apply on the frame during painting process and be removed at the end to have the name/logo/symbol painted on the frame. Like you would have with the names of all major manufacturers.
I eventually went down the lane of a full custom painting with decals and all. Was good fun messing around with colors and styles. Attached is a mockup I built myself to present my idea to velobuild. I also included the font and the logo as PNG for them to print. Let's see if the final result will look anything like I imagined it :D
That is amazing! What program did you use? Planning to do this as well.
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That is amazing! What program did you use? Planning to do this as well.
I did it in Photoshop as I wasn't sure about style and color in the beginning. Therefore, took a "naked" frame picture from their website, masked it in PS, and then played around with several styles, colors, fonts, and decals. I eventually sent them this picture and ask whether this is possible for them to create.
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??? I am 180/181 cm tall and the saddle height is 82/83, I have more legs than bust. only 58. with a 350mm seat post, there would be 6-7cm left inside the frame. too few. as well as having a disproportionate saddle/handlebar height difference.
How do you ride on a 54 frame?
I'm at 192cm with a BB to the seat of 84cm, a 400mm seat post in a XL frame would work for me, but not a 350mm seat post...
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Current center of BB to top-of-saddle distance (following the seat tube angle) = 74 cm
Lowest distance when seatpost is slammed = 71,5 cm
On a size 54 cm
thank you. glad i asked, i need 81cm... i guess i cant get a 268 even if i wanted to.
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M should be enough for 81 cm
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This is very helpful information. What is the min / max saddle height on your 56 size frame?
Minimum distance from BB to top of saddle = 70 cm (67 cm from BB to center of saddle rails) - but you could cut the seat post to get even lower.
Maximum distance depends on the minimum amount of seatpost inside the frame you want, of course. But the distance from BB to top of the seat tube is 49 cm and the length of seat post + saddle is 39 cm = 88 cm. I would say that you probably want at least 7 cm within the seat tube = 81 cm as maximum saddle height from BB to top of saddle (or 78 cm to center part of where the seat clamp grabs the rails).
The reason why the minimum saddle height is not lower on the 54 cm is probably due to an identical placement of the rear wheel cut out in the seat tube (which is the limiting factor of how deep the seatpost can go)
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Hey guys new build coming soon. This will be my first build after lurking here for some time. I finally decided to build a chinese carbon bike because I wanted a new bike that will make me want to ride more(my current one is Orbea Avant alloy rim from 2015). It will be my first build and it will be with mechanical groupset mix ultegra and some from aliex. I know that it will be painful but I hope I can do it. Wheels from Leon at Yuanan 45mm deep.
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Nice, another colorful build coming up! Good luck with that mechanical though, as you might have read it can be a big PITA :-X
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Nice, another colorful build coming up! Good luck with that mechanical though, as you might have read it can be a big PITA :-X
Thanks will do my best and if I struggle with something I might ask for help here. One of the main reasons I want to do this is to learn to fix my bike by myself when something is off. Bike mechanics in my area do more harm than good when you leave your bike with them.
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Thanks for your comment. The chameleon pops quite a bit in the sun, just so you are aware. The other one in blue chameleon does as well, probably a bit more disco vibe than expected, but you only live once :D
My friend is 180 cm, long torso. Stack of the frame is pretty aggressive as you can see by the number of spacers he needed to get a comfortable position. I have bought af 56 cm for myself (187 cm).
The wheel set weighs 1420g without rim tape, tolerances seems very nice, end caps are a really good snug fit. The standard ones are fairly wide compared to others, 21 internal and 28 internal, so would not be a bad choice as well, and you can get them a bit deeper than the 45 mm's also. The build proces was not that hard, but probably way worse if you are to route mechanical gear. Cut the steerer 6 mm below the stem. Did all wiring without a routing tool and didn't really need it. The handlebar is the standard one, yes. 400/100 mm, but the reach seems a bit longer as the hood-position extends a bit further from where the stem "ends".
cheers
Thanks for your reply. I'm 178cm with shortisch legs (nothing extreem). Normally a bit between 53/54 framesizes. Wondering what would be the best option for me. I do like my stem slammed (doing TT on the TT bike as well, so used to 'being low') an dislike a short seatpost (purely for estetics) :)
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So my frame arrived today. Well packed and undamaged. Took about 5 weeks from order placement and 14 days from shipment notification to delivery. Not super fast but not super slow either.
Weights of my setup as measured by myself:
- XL frame (painted but without metal parts or axle): 1164g
- Fork (painted, w/o axle): 410g
- Handlebar: 396g
- Seatpost: 236g
- Front/rear axle: 29.4g/40.4g
- Various metal parts, headset, spacers, seat clamp, ...: 392g
So my full riding setup comes down to 2588g. A bit more than I expected but I guess the paint job did add a bit.
I'm pretty happy with the paint job in general. Close up inspection does bring out a few issues. There are a few minor scratches, chips, and imperfections. Luckily, the latter kinda look like reflections so wouldn't really be noticeable under riding conditions. The chips are mostly at hidden spots. The lines don't always match perfectly but they hid those quite well, too. The brake mounts seemed to have been masked but got some overspray. The BB wasn't covered at all and is fully painted. Weirdly enough, some parts (like axle mounts) have only been painted with the base layer but not the effects. It won't be visible at some points but definitely at the axle mounts. The "drain hole" at the bottom isn't centered which is no technical issue but slightly bothers the perfectionist in me anyways.
I wasn't expecting a flawless paint job especially given the added complexity of mine. If you "require" a better pain job, get the frame unpainted and look locally (for a much higher price) as others have said before. However, under normal riding conditions I don't think any of these issues (apart from the "non effect" axle holes) will show at all. I think for 100 USD it is absolutely fine and will catch a few looks once I'm riding it.
The only thing that might actually bother me, is the text decals are quite a bit narrower than in my mock-up. In the mock-up I did space out the letters and stretch the whole text a little bit to get it fill the frame more. To be fair, I did not mention that in my email, so I am not blaming them for it. Just something for me to remember for future designs.
Looking forward to building it up in the next days. Unfortunately, still waiting for the chainrings to arrive, so full build will have to wait until ~end of next week.
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Very nice, well done. I would have ordered it without the text, and added the text with car vinyl cut locally. That way you can get exactly the text & spacing you want and, importantly, you can easily change your mind, rinse and repeat.
Looking forward to the pictures of the fully built bike!
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Very nice, well done. I would have ordered it without the text, and added the text with car vinyl cut locally. That way you can get exactly the text & spacing you want and, importantly, you can easily change your mind, rinse and repeat.
Looking forward to the pictures of the fully built bike!
Yeah, I honestly thought they gonna paint the decals on instead of just using stickers. Otherwise, I would have done it myself as you suggested. Well, still learning but I think for my first design this could have turned out much worse :D
Some hold the cable with adhesive tape on the fork (at mid-height) to keep it on the right side. Also make sure that your cable has not passed behind the fork to come back in front
Currently struggling with this as well (having just 2 hydraulic brake hoses to route since I'm using Di2): where do you cross the lines if you cannot route behind the steerer tube? In that little cut out section between steerer and stem/handlebar? Done that but didn't really like the feeling of it; it's super tight there. Have to cross them somewhere as my front brake comes out on the right side and my rear brake on the left ... Thoughts?
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Currently struggling with this as well (having just 2 hydraulic brake hoses to route since I'm using Di2): where do you cross the lines if you cannot route behind the steerer tube? In that little cut out section between steerer and stem/handlebar? Done that but didn't really like the feeling of it; it's super tight there. Have to cross them somewhere as my front brake comes out on the right side and my rear brake on the left ... Thoughts?
What does the entrance to the cockpit look like? Could you keep the front brake on the right side and rear brake on the left side all the way through the headset and then cross them in the body of the cockpit?
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What does the entrance to the cockpit look like? Could you keep the front brake on the right side and rear brake on the left side all the way through the headset and then cross them in the body of the cockpit?
That's exactly what I did after fidling around with it for an hour or two :D
Eventually I just forced them down and made them cross in that spacer (see picture attached). Is that the recommended way to do it? Or how do the "pros" deal with it?
I'm pretty happy with the result. Can freely move the handlebars to both ends, touching the frame even, without any tension or "snapping" back to center.
Build is almost finished now. Brakes are bled, BB installed, and wheels attached. Only missing saddle, chain, and final tuning. Will probably finish it tomorrow.
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That's exactly what I did after fidling around with it for an hour or two :D
Eventually I just forced them down and made them cross in that spacer (see picture attached). Is that the recommended way to do it? Or how do the "pros" deal with it?
I'm pretty happy with the result. Can freely move the handlebars to both ends, touching the frame even, without any tension or "snapping" back to center.
Build is almost finished now. Brakes are bled, BB installed, and wheels attached. Only missing saddle, chain, and final tuning. Will probably finish it tomorrow.
Are these VB bars? They look kind of open on the underside, would that be enough to detach the cockpit and tape it to the side of the frame for travel? I'm looking for such an option.
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Are these VB bars? They look kind of open on the underside, would that be enough to detach the cockpit and tape it to the side of the frame for travel? I'm looking for such an option.
I think they are VB bars. I have relatively little slack in my hydro hoses but it's enough to take off the bars when I need to put the bike in a travel bag without issue (spacers need to come off).
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Are these VB bars? They look kind of open on the underside, would that be enough to detach the cockpit and tape it to the side of the frame for travel? I'm looking for such an option.
Yes those are the ones that came with the frame. I believe there would be enough space to tape them to the frame for transport.
New issue: they only included the 7x9 saddle rails but not the 7x9 clamps ... So no chance of mounting my 7x9 rails carbon saddle. Have to go with my shitty 7x7 fizik saddle for now. Hope they still have spares and send them quickly.
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Yet another silver chameleon. Build the bike for my girlfriend and she is yet to test it. The frame quality is ok. A bit of paint overspray in the bb and the headset so I had to clean that up. Even though I ordered a frame quite recently it didn't have a drain hole so I had to drill one myself. I asked for a 36cm handlebar since they only offer 400mm on their website and I received a kocevlo handlebar and spacers. The handlebar itself is nice but the spacers are thrash: very soft, flexy pastic that deforms very easily and even the cables pushing on the spacers from the inside deform them. The build was relatively easy. The only tricky part was routing the cables through the headset and the handlebar. I went for a mechanical drivetrain build and it was very very tight. What didn't help is ghat the exit port for the front brake hose is on the right side of the steering tube and it was difficult to re route it to the left.
I thought this frame was EPS molded but I found a piece of bladder inside when routing the cables.
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This is my first carbon frame ever. Is this normal?
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I wanna say normal for a velobuild but, could do with some more angles and inside shots
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Looks like someone cut the carbon on both sides of the tube.
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Two months have passed since VB agreed to send me a new seat clamp, and I'm still waiting. They said there was a problem with the shipment... I think the best option now is to try to get an SL7 seat clamp, as it appears VB used the same design.
After 2000 km, the only issue I found is the headset becoming loose, I had to adjust the preload a couple of times. Otherwise, it's a fine frame.
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Urg, still waiting for mine as well. Not a good outlook ...
Might have to get the SL7 clamps, too, as my arse is getting sore.
I also had the headset coming loose. I put some lock tite on but it seems to still get loose. Did you find a more permanent solution for this or are you just re-tightening after every ride?
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Urg, still waiting for mine as well. Not a good outlook ...
Might have to get the SL7 clamps, too, as my arse is getting sore.
I also had the headset coming loose. I put some lock tite on but it seems to still get loose. Did you find a more permanent solution for this or are you just re-tightening after every ride?
For now, I have just applied a bit more torque. Let's see how it goes...
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Urg, still waiting for mine as well. Not a good outlook ...
Might have to get the SL7 clamps, too, as my arse is getting sore.
I also had the headset coming loose. I put some lock tite on but it seems to still get loose. Did you find a more permanent solution for this or are you just re-tightening after every ride?
what exactly get's loose? once you preload the bearing and clamp the stem it should hold even without the top cap.
An issue I've had with different bikes is incorrectly "expanded" expander plug. sometimes it expands only on one side which creates very little friction even though it seems like the plug is tight.
What I now do with every build is lightly grease the "cones" on the plug and pre-expand it so that it just fits inside the steering tube and only then install it.
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Hey Guys,
My VBR 268 glossy grey is in transit and also my elite wheel 55mm wheels
Quistion: What could be headache to build this bike?
What kind of problems can i aspect?
Im going for a SRAM RIVAL ETAP AXS group.
Will put down some pictures asap.
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Hey Guys,
My VBR 268 glossy grey is in transit and also my elite wheel 55mm wheels
Quistion: What could be headache to build this bike?
What kind of problems can i aspect?
Im going for a SRAM RIVAL ETAP AXS group.
Will put down some pictures asap.
I didn't have any headaches with the build, but you might consider buying af longer headset extender plug. Cable routing was inproblematic and facing of the brake caliber mounting to the frame seems good as well. Remember to buy rubber grommets for the cable exit ports as they are not included.
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Sine I ordered mine in orange-blue-fade yesterday, what gromets are needed for a Di2 build?
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Sine I ordered mine in orange-blue-fade yesterday, what gromets are needed for a Di2 build?
I bought these for the rear Di2-cable, they fit nicely. I didn't find some that fit perfectly for the front derailleur Di2-cable.
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So my frame arrived today. Well packed and undamaged. Took about 5 weeks from order placement and 14 days from shipment notification to delivery. Not super fast but not super slow either.
[...]
Looking forward to building it up in the next days. Unfortunately, still waiting for the chainrings to arrive, so full build will have to wait until ~end of next week.
I know it's been awhile, since I promised pictures of the completed build ...
Last week I finally received another package from velobuild. First, I was a bit worried as the package said "bicycle rear hanger" and I know they have them as spare parts as well. But inside were actually the correct 7x9mm saddle rail clamps that were missing. Then I had to wait for better weather since this summer just doesn't really want to start here but well I finally went for a longer ride today and took some pictures as well. Unfortunately, there were still some wet patches on the road here and there, so I gathered a bit of dirt on the frame; just kindly ignore that :D
Really happy with the overall build and ride feeling. Aggressive enough for my riding, a bit of aero, and not too heavy either. The bike weights in at around 7.6kg and my full "ride-ready" weight (pedals, computer mount, bottle holder) is around 8kg. Considering I went with 2x 11-34 for hilly terrain and a built-in power meter, I think that's not too bad.
A few notes and remarks after ~400km of riding the bike:
- The saddle rails came lose a few times; just enough for the saddle to tilt. I gave the threads a bit of medium thread lock and so far it seems to hold. Time will tell if it remains like that.
- My headset developed some play quite quickly. I first though it might be the longer compression plug I got cheap from AE and installed the one that came with the frame. Same story though. Might need to tighten the handlebar stem bolts more than the recommendation ...
- Stiffness is fine in general. I noticed that when I put more torque through the pedals (hard riding up hill, maybe ~1000W), my disc brakes rub a bit. I suspect the frame is just bending a little bit "too much" under that power and my rather high weight of 90kg that it deforms so much the calipers are rubbing just a little bit from side to side movement of the frame while I push the pedals hard. Since I'm currently not able to do real sprints due to injury, I cannot comment if that might become an issue down the line once I recovered. Will observe.
Not concerning the frame but just some general notes about the build:
- Magene Powermeter just works. Install was effortless and so was the setup. Can recommend.
- Pass Quest 2x aero chainrings fit the look&feel of the Magene very well. Not sure how many aero gains those chainrings actually offer (not that it would matter to my riding at all) but I just like the clean and "closed-up" look of them.
- Goldix 12s Ultralight cassette: works fine in general but takes some time to shift from smallest to 2nd smallest cog. Other shifts are quick and easy (so indexing is correct) but that last one just does not want to down shift. Also my favorite gears (5-8) are a bit more noisy than the others. Especially when I'm in the big ring at the front. Not sure why though. Maybe it just needs a fresh wax after ~400km. Will have to observe.
PS: just the other day, another rider chased after me as I passed him just to admire the bike ("What a nice looking bike!"). Wanted to know what brand it is and where I got it from :D
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Patty we need a 268 vs SL8 comparison!
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Patty we need a 268 vs SL8 comparison!
Let me guess :
1) SL8
2) Propel
3) 268
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Which makes sense due to the pricing, but at what cost? Are you really getting $2000+ more of a bike?
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A more entertaining question would be...
Which customer base is more insufferable?: Chinertown or Specialized?
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That sounds pretty condescending.
Pearl's question is absolutely valid, as far as i'm concerned.
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That sounds pretty condescending.
Pearl's question is absolutely valid, as far as i'm concerned.
It wasn't meant to be condescending at all if we understand how both sarcasm and tongue-in-cheek works LoL. Especially considering I have no record of instigating on this forum, let alone my fair share of contributions over the years.
Your comment highlights why a 268/SL8 comparison video isn't a great idea. Both brands have a cult-like following on the extreme sides of budgets. Particularly with VeloBuild and Specialized, I've seen customers on each side believe their bike purchase is virtuous in some odd way. Like a strange pissing contest of virtue signaling. The battle of financial savviness versus brand cache.
My opinions on both the 268 and SL8 are purely subjective and a projection of my own experiences. But any criticism toward either brand will incite each customer base to attack my character as a YouTube reviewer. Criticism to push the conversation forward is always welcomed. Criticism in bad faith or so simply because one doesn't "like" my opinion is a waste of everyone's time. I just don't think we need confirmation bias from YouTubers.
So the real question which needs to be asked is: What are we really looking to gain (or lose) by such comparisons? This is a serious question. I'm happy to help.
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So the real question which needs to be asked is: What are we really looking to gain (or lose) by such comparisons? This is a serious question. I'm happy to help.
Not being a youtuber and being able to throw in a perspective from the peanut gallery, one of the biggest problems is that the percieved value of $1 is also different to different people. I think a more interesting question is what does the extra $$$$ get you on the Specialized that you don't get with the VBR. Followed that by a look at what the the price gap actually represent in bike terms (e.g., upgrade groupset, upgraded wheels etc.) and then whether or not you would rather ride the the cheaper frame with the more expensive components or the more expensive frame with cheaper ones. You could look at this in tiers (i.e., apex mechanical to force 1x and then force to red).
I had all intentions of building up a cheap gravelish bike for commuting and a little cross racing, but my plans have changed too and I probably wont be buying an unbranded frame anytime soon, probably for reasons similar to why you got the specialized.
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This gap between headtube cover and spacers is normal?
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No, mine sits completely flush. Maybe the holes aren't completely drilled out to allow for the "nipple" to sit properly? If that's the case, a small round file might solve the problem quickly.
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No, mine sits completely flush. Maybe the holes aren't completely drilled out to allow for the "nipple" to sit properly? If that's the case, a small round file might solve the problem quickly.
Yes, holes are not deep enough.
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So the real question which needs to be asked is: What are we really looking to gain (or lose) by such comparisons? This is a serious question. I'm happy to help.
Whoa did not want to cause drama, just have an open discussion, plus I feel that me and Pat have the same love language for sarcasm/humor lol
The reason why I want Patty's input is because he's "come up" on these China frames and being so deep into that world, then going to a "real" frame, I'd love to hear his opinion in the differences between the 268 vs the SL8 as they would be competitors in terms of geo/aero etc (on paper, anyway). Could you blindfold Patty and could he feel the difference between each frame? What am I giving up going with the $600 shipped frame versus a $3500 frame? What do I get with the $2900 or so floating around?
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As someone who has not experienced any high-performance frameset, I would also love to hear about the differences between the 268 and the SL8. No one expects the VB to be better than the SL8, but as pearl said, how close can the VB get if you invest the price difference in better components like the wheels or the groupset
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To me it’s always what’s “better”? You can measure aero in a wind tunnel, weight on a scale, but what else would make a big jump in price worth it?
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Per @pearl 's request because we are buddies 8)
This is no way intended to be a full comparison. I'll do a deeper dive video maybe later this week.
VB-268 versus Tarmac SL8 Pro
Similarities
-Wheels: Craft Racing Works CS5060
-Tires: GP5000s 28 Clinchers. TPU tubes
-Groupset: Sram Force eTap 1x
-Saddle: Specialized/S-Works Power 143
Differences
-The frame geometry is essentially the same for both, but the reach on my 268 is a tad shorter due to the integrated handlebars. I'm also using an extra spacer on my 268 so the stack height is a tad taller too. But does make easier for an aero hoods position.
My Initial Thoughts
-Those CRW wheels do a decent job of masking some of imperfections on the 268. And they should because they are expensive. They are my best set of wheels in my rotation so it makes sense. 50mm front, 60mm rear, 1300g.
-I cannot get around the fact that the 268 (like all sub $800 frames I've tested) suffers instability from the rear triangle when the frame is disrupted over bad pavement. Not the worse frame I've test in this regard, but not even CRW wheels can fully save it.
-The acceleration on the SL8 is immediate. Both in the saddle and out. Not a single watt is wasted. While the 268 does not feel like a noddle compared to the 168, the power transfer isn't 100% instant. Again, something common at this price point. The SL8 manages to be very comfortable without compromising stiffness at all. The 268's comfort comes at the price of some stiffness loss.
Two Main and Most Important Differences
-The CRW wheels suffer from crosswind instability (>15mph winds) due to how light they are for the depth. This has been an issue when paired with my Giant Propel and Tavelo Attack. Sadly crosswind instability is similar on the 268. However, the SL8 is the only frame I've tested that is very stable with these wheels. Even descending. Wind tunnel engineering? Snake oil? Who knows...
-The SL8's ability to sustain any given speed is noticeable. Very very noticeable. The way it just floats over bad pavement. 100 mile ride or 35mph townline sprint, it's all-day comfort and speed no matter what. At the risk using "bro science" I'd reckon the SL8 is around 3 to 4 mph faster at 250 watts.
I wont even get into fit & finish, warranty, local support, and brand cache. Or just how freaking light the SL8 is for a non S-Works. It really comes down to individual rider style and what you value in a frameset. For myself...despite the Giant Propel, Winspace T1500, and Tavelo Attack, all of which are excellent, the SL8 has pretty much been a revelation for me. So much that I don't even know which premium brand to test next because I just can't imagine any frame being as superb as the SL8.
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Thank you for this! I had a 177 for a while and didn’t mind it, I think I would’ve still had it if I didn’t have mechanical shifting on it and it cleared 32s like they said it would… so if it’s better than that…
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Thanks for the insight.
If it rides as nice as my beloved Scott CR1 I am happy. I quess if one never rides such a high class bike obe does not get spoiled. :-)
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-The SL8's ability to sustain any given speed is noticeable. Very very noticeable. The way it just floats over bad pavement. 100 mile ride or 35mph townline sprint, it's all-day comfort and speed no matter what. At the risk using "bro science" I'd reckon the SL8 is around 3 to 4 mph faster at 250 watts.
I appreciate your experience, but it's just impossible to believe. 250 watts for average rider is 34-35 kph (21-21.7 mph) and 3-4 mph (4.8 - 6.4 kph) difference which you claim, it's around 100 watt difference in power, it's insane. The vbr268 must be made from noodles.
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Can I get this out?
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I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.
I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.
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I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.
I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.
Same here.
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I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.
I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.
You need to remove it from the inside. There's a piece of metal that spreads out when the bolt is tightened and it doesn't really get back in shape once loosened. You need to remove it through the bb hole
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You need to remove it from the inside. There's a piece of metal that spreads out when the bolt is tightened and it doesn't really get back in shape once loosened. You need to remove it through the bb hole
Did you replace it with something?
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Did you replace it with something?
I just used a piece of mastic tape
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Can I get this out?
I've removed in the past and drilled it out as well to fit the Di2 cable. There should be a hex bolt to loosen it?
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Never had more issues in a build. That aside, here is the latest.
The stem clamp bolt just spins out because some genius at Velobuild put a round nut in a round hole.
When it hits the point of tension where it should grip the whole thing, it just spins in the carbon hole. The bolt is not threaded. It is the nut and bolt spinning together in perfect unison because the bolt has nowhere to grip.
Apart from smashing this turd with a sledgehammer, any suggestions? ;)
Does the nut not have a hex head that you can hold in place with another tool? That's how mine are, and I have to use two tools occasionally.
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I've removed in the past and drilled it out as well to fit the Di2 cable. There should be a hex bolt to loosen it?
Yes but even when loosened I couldn't get it out. It was making scary creaking noises and also I wasn't sure if I would be able to put it back in after.
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No, unfortunately, the nut side is round, and once the thread is at the point of engaging, it's already past flush to get another tool in. A real dumb piece of engineering by Velobuild. About to just part it off and buy a complete build as I'm out of time to prep for a trip next week.
Both of mine also have hex heads, weird..
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Both of mine also have hex heads, weird..
Is it hex internal on the bolt side with a round on the outside? That's how mine are, but screwing in, the bolt goes past the point of being able to get a hex head, and the screw is protruding out the other side. Designed with zero thought, will have to trash the whole handlebar assembly but with all the other issues on the frame really hesitant to stuff more money and time into this build which is likely a lemon regardless.
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I appreciate your experience, but it's just impossible to believe. 250 watts for average rider is 34-35 kph (21-21.7 mph) and 3-4 mph (4.8 - 6.4 kph) difference which you claim, it's around 100 watt difference in power, it's insane. The vbr268 must be made from noodles.
I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.
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I wonder if there is a placebo effect. While I don't disagree the SL8 is the better finish. I can't imagine those gains from the frame alone.
I think the context of @patliean1 's comment is not claiming the aero difference of the bikes, but rather suggesting that he rides faster given the same average wattage on the SL8 due to better comfort (and likely therefore different body position) over broken pavement. I think the 3-4mph claim is probably high, but he also said its a "bro science" observation (i.e., not well measured) and he is a larger rider than me so IDK. For me, I have seen a 3+mph difference between sitting up on the hoods and aerobars, but not quite hoods to aero hoods
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Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)
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Hahaha what is curious is that a lot of ppl ask for comparison and feedback and then the same or others start complaining about the feeling/review he made haha. A review is nothing but personal and in most cases biased (not saying this is the case here)
How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.
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How hard is it to do the same loop in the same position at the same watts with the same wheels with both bikes? There's a stadium close to me and you can ride around it. It's a loop so negates the wind. With the same bike you can test positions. With two bikes you can compare them. Let's not pretend it takes a PhD to do such tests.
That would be clean data. It gets more nuanced around ride quality, sprints, stiffness, shock absorption and so on. And it's perfectly fine to prefer a nicer bike. I prefer dating pretty girls, although one could argue an ugly one could serve me just as well. Some would say, such as that sailor I met at a Shoreditch pub in 2007, better.
I'd say it's not about taking a PhD or how hard it is. People are looking for marginal gains.For those who notice and make use of those marginal gains, I'm sure they are or can easily be sponsored.
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Is it hex internal on the bolt side with a round on the outside? That's how mine are, but screwing in, the bolt goes past the point of being able to get a hex head, and the screw is protruding out the other side. Designed with zero thought, will have to trash the whole handlebar assembly but with all the other issues on the frame really hesitant to stuff more money and time into this build which is likely a lemon regardless.
Same mechanism for me but I can get enough tension before it protrudes and hit the hex key. Perhaps you can measure the length of the bolt, it might be longer than the ones I got?
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I have just received the new seat clamp for the carbon saddle, and now it finally fits perfectly. It took a while (a bit more than 2 months) and several emails, but Chris resolved my problems.
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No big problems. Yet.
Going to buy a bigger expander.
A bit of damage in transit and the paint job wasbt that good.
Chris is going yo handle it he said. Fast reaction!
Gonna update some build pictures in the rest of the coming weeks.
SRAM RIVAL AXS 2by group and elite 55mm wheels.
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How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?
I like them. The following is from the Mavic Site"
"The Speed Release axle technology makes the use of thru axle faster, easier and safer.
In only 4 turns, it is screwed and unscrewed.
When removing the wheel from the frame, it doesn't need to be taken out from the hub. It stays on the wheel and you don't need an extra hand to hold it while manipulating the frame or the wheel. No risk of forgetting it on the parking lot.
It's integrated torque management system makes sure it is always perfectly tighten.
At last, at only 40g front and 45g rear, it is also one of the lightest thru axle on the market, with an integrated lever.
Only compatible with Speed Release compatible frames and forks (Lapierre, Orbea, Cannondale, Wilier, Origine, Enve, Votec, Airstreeem, Caminade, Victoire...)"
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Hello everyone, 1st post here but not my first bike, I guess this is my #20ish installed "no brand" bike in 15 years.
All went fine, especially as I decided to go AXS so it's super fast. What required more time is the routing through the (separated) handlebar. With a traditional handlebar, which requires an open window in the headset top cup, this would be easier but less pleasant from an aesthetic POV. I'd do this way next time (or the first time I'll need to change headset bearings).
One problem so far, for me, it's the "carbon" saddle clamp: as others noted it's too small for a 9mm height rail. I just wrote Chris for an updated clamp. For now, I Installed the 7*7mm clamp with a heavy Fizik saddle.
About weight, well...it's not its strength being a little "porky" but it's not too bad either (8.2 Kg as in photo).
I'll try it in the next days, checking seatpost "slippage".
Going back, I'd go with a 177, but now here it is.
Boring matte black, but hey, (less) grams!
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Does anyone know if it is possible to install a cable computer?
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Hello everyone, 1st post here but not my first bike, I guess this is my #20ish installed "no brand" bike in 15 years.
All went fine, especially as I decided to go AXS so it's super fast. What required more time is the routing through the (separated) handlebar. With a traditional handlebar, which requires an open window in the headset top cup, this would be easier but less pleasant from an aesthetic POV. I'd do this way next time (or the first time I'll need to change headset bearings).
One problem so far, for me, it's the "carbon" saddle clamp: as others noted it's too small for a 9mm height rail. I just wrote Chris for an updated clamp. For now, I Installed the 7*7mm clamp with a heavy Fizik saddle.
About weight, well...it's not its strength being a little "porky" but it's not too bad either (8.2 Kg as in photo).
I'll try it in the next days, checking seatpost "slippage".
Going back, I'd go with a 177, but now here it is.
Boring matte black, but hey, (less) grams!
Really Really NICE!
Cant wait to complete my AXS build i think its going for 8.5kg then…
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Does anyone know if it is possible to install a cable computer?
Sorry, a what now? I assume you mean on of these old-style bike computers that had their speed sensors on a cable instead of wireless? If so: Why would you do that?
You're spending about 2-3k USD on a carbon race bike but then wanna slap a cable routed speedometer on it? It's not even much cheaper anyway. A pair of speed and cadence sensors was 9 USD on AliExpress for me. A simple wireless bike computer isn't much more expensive.
So really? WHY?! :D ???
PS: tbf I see no *technical* limitations on this frame in comparison to any other frame that would prevent you from installing it. Still wouldn't do or recommend doing it. But technically, you should be fine.
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Saddle clamp update: I checked again so if the rails are exactly or slightly less than 9mm the provided "carbon" optional clamp is ok. The problem come when, and I've some saddles as such, the rails are >9mm (measured again and again they are 10mm or just slightly less). I emailed Chris if it's possible to have 7*10mm clamp(s). So just to clarify that it is not a problem of wrong clamps, just that there are carbon saddles that are >9mm.
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I'm in the process of ordering a 268 frame but would appreciate some advice on the headset & stem. At risk of repeating an old question - has anyone successfully used a SL7 stem/spacers/transition kit on this frame? I understand it's possible to use a FSA no.69 headset with any stem of choice, but would prefer an integrated look with the SL7 stem.
In the 168-frame thread there's been some discussion about 3D-printed transition pieces for the Allez Sprint. Unless I misunderstand, this round design will not match the 268 frame, and will leave a gap where the original transition piece is? Has anyone gone down this road?
https://www.printables.com/de/model/171982-specialized-headset-cover-round-to-sl7-spacersstem/remixes
https://www.printables.com/de/model/555935-velobuild-vb-r-168-specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-
On a similar note, is there a consensus on the quality and durability of the included headset bearings? Would it be advisable to replace them with FSA bearings for peace of mind, regardless of the stem question above?
Thanks!
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I'm in the process of ordering a 268 frame but would appreciate some advice on the headset & stem. At risk of repeating an old question - has anyone successfully used a SL7 stem/spacers/transition kit on this frame? I understand it's possible to use a FSA no.69 headset with any stem of choice, but would prefer an integrated look with the SL7 stem.
In the 168-frame thread there's been some discussion about 3D-printed transition pieces for the Allez Sprint. Unless I misunderstand, this round design will not match the 268 frame, and will leave a gap where the original transition piece is? Has anyone gone down this road?
https://www.printables.com/de/model/171982-specialized-headset-cover-round-to-sl7-spacersstem/remixes
https://www.printables.com/de/model/555935-velobuild-vb-r-168-specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-
On a similar note, is there a consensus on the quality and durability of the included headset bearings? Would it be advisable to replace them with FSA bearings for peace of mind, regardless of the stem question above?
Thanks!
I am building my bike and the is a little bit of space between headset bearing/ compression ring and what insaw on a youtube video from patty that he uses somekind of other spacers.
Maybe original spacers for an sl7.
The spacers that i got from velobuild look cool and where painted in same color as my frame.
But seems to doesnt really fit well.
I am going to overthink this and maybe replace these item for original Specialized ones. As alse it is recommended to buy a bigger expander for the steering.
The velobuild is to short and not that good.
I send Patty a meesage on youtube but insee him sometimes react on this page aswell.
Maybe this is also a part of an answer on youre quistion.
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I am building my bike and the is a little bit of space between headset bearing/ compression ring and what insaw on a youtube video from patty that he uses somekind of other spacers.
Maybe original spacers for an sl7.
The spacers that i got from velobuild look cool and where painted in same color as my frame.
But seems to doesnt really fit well.
I am going to overthink this and maybe replace these item for original Specialized ones. As alse it is recommended to buy a bigger expander for the steering.
The velobuild is to short and not that good.
I send Patty a meesage on youtube but insee him sometimes react on this page aswell.
Maybe this is also a part of an answer on youre quistion.
Trying to catch up on all my messages. As good practice with budget frames, I always use expander plugs from the brand called "Neco" which can be found on Amazon for like $13-$20. Length large, aluminium or carbon top cap. Not the lightest plug ever but no slippage. Especially if you plan to run spacers above the stem
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Trying to catch up on all my messages. As good practice with budget frames, I always use expander plugs from the brand called "Neco" which can be found on Amazon for like $13-$20. Length large, aluminium or carbon top cap. Not the lightest plug ever but no slippage. Especially if you plan to run spacers above the stem
And what about the spacers you used? Original SL7 ones?
I see they are different on youre bike then come with Velobuild.
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VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables
I love everything about this frame, high quality, excellent riding and love the small details:
- Integrated handlebar with cables hiding
- Mavic Safe Release
- Very well made aero seat-post with zero offset. It comes also with two clamps for a 7 and 9 mm (carbon) seat rails. I use a Selle Italia SLR boost carbon seat
- I choose glossy finish (carbon) and glossy black VB decal which i really like. They have done a very nice "paint" job.
- The build bicycle is pretty light: weights 17.85 lb with the Garmin 830, the AeroPod and the
bracket for the radar, Look pedals. water bottle cages Lezine carbon pump.
I will attach few pics.
A couple of suggestions:
1. With rim brakes the quick releases were part of the wheel, with disk brakes the thru-axle is part of the frame. The Mavic Safe Release is great but.. stays with the wheel which is good but if you want to use the thru-axle for something else like use a chain keeper to clean the chain without the wheel is not easy. So here is the tip: order a pair of Mavic Safe Release when you order the frame, yes it will cost you few more $ but it is worth it.
2. If you do your own maintenance you may or may not have the correct bike repair stand. The best way to clamp the bike is from the seat-post front and back, my previous rack was excellent for round seat-post but was not good for this aero seat-post so I invest few $ in a new stand.
A major asset of a company is how they interact with the customers, here VB is unique, Chris is gold is like having a friend inside of the company and major plus to order from VB.
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That's amazing, love the fact you put a sram red group on a VB frame :)
Are the campagnolo wheels legit or copies?
you'll have to tell us how the bike rides compared to other bikes you've ridden. I suspect that if you're rocking sram red & Bora wheels, you know a thing or 2 about bikes.
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What is everyone using for their Varia mount on this frame. The Garmin mount is too small for the seat tube.
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That's amazing, love the fact you put a sram red group on a VB frame :)
Are the campagnolo wheels legit or copies?
you'll have to tell us how the bike rides compared to other bikes you've ridden. I suspect that if you're rocking sram red & Bora wheels, you know a thing or 2 about bikes.
Serge, yes the Campagnolo WTO are legits, imho are the best wheels in the market with the exception of the BoraWTO Ultra. Of course they are hooked rims. Despite of 45mm + 28 tire you barely feel the side winds.
I did many changes with this frame: 1. I choose a small frame (and a seat post with zero offset) so it will allow me to be more aero, you will see some extra spacers but I can have my forearms flat (horizontal) when my hands are on hoods and my upper arms are 90 degrees with the forearms. 2. Also the present trends is for shorter cranks, so I have 160 mm which has many benefits.
How the VB rides? I love the ride, it climbs very well in part because is light, sprinting with hands on the drops it follow you, but the most important is descending where you can take hairpin corners at good speed, push down the handlebars and bikes respond as the best one, so you can shorten the radius or curvature in the middle of the corner. In summa love the frame, VB had done a superb job.
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How the VB rides? In summa love the frame, VB had done a superb job.
Sweet. What are you comparing it to, what were you riding before?
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Sweet. What are you comparing it to, what were you riding before?
GURU a custom carbon frame made in Canada. I have other bikes but this was my fav until now.
I did not know that there were Campagnolo Bora copies, but that explains all the documentation that came with the wheels to be sure that the wheels were authentic, weird!. BTW the wheels are just great.
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What is everyone using for their Varia mount on this frame. The Garmin mount is too small for the seat tube.
Look at the pic of the previous message, the Varia Radar vount works great on the seatpost but you have to use the one with the rubber straps, you can not use the rigid mount.
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What is the common wisdom/approach as to grease/anti-seize/other for installing the press fit BB86 on this frame?
Can't seem to find any definitive answer...
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What is the common wisdom/approach as to grease/anti-seize/other for installing the press fit BB86 on this frame?
Can't seem to find any definitive answer...
You grease it up, you press it in?
Not sure what answer exactly you're looking for? :D
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Are we still talking about bikes?
More to whether it was grease (I have PPL-1), some kind of anti-seize compound or some other type of viscous liquid?
Or just push it in dry...
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:o :-X
I think there isn't any clear-cut answer. Some prefer grease, some anti-sieze, some retaining compound - as long as you are using any of these options and not pressing it in dry, you should be fine. Same applies for bike's bottom bracket ::)
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i've had wonderful results with Liqui Moly 3312 silicone grease, which is the german equivalent of that japanese silicone grease recommended by Cannondale Ausralia. Cannondale basically invented creaky BBs.
I rode in the rain several times, BB started making horrible creaks, i caked that stuff everywhere, no more creaks.
So going fwd, i'll be putting that everywhere. It's extremely sticky, so i'll also put that on headset bearings, because you'd need a pressure washer to wash it off, and i dont want to change my headset bearings any more than i want a creaky BB.
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I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.
I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.
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I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.
I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.
2Bergen,
Congrats! Very nice build and love the colors you choose. Enjoy it.
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2Burgen....what bars did you go with? How tall are you and what frame size did you go with?
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Since I am 1,90 m tall and was allways riding a 58 I went with a 58. Reach is 10 mm more than my old bike so I took a 1 cm shorter stem with 110 mm.
I worked out.
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I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.
I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.
Nice build. I'm not impressed with the included headset-plug, if it keeps getting loose I would try with a longer one.
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IMHO the headset should be held together by the stem and nut by the plug. So that would be the bad part. In the 90'ies so would remove the starnut and the cover to save weight.
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No, the top cap and bold are "just" to pre-load the headset bearings. Once you tighten the stem bolts, those will be holding it all in place.
Technically, you could still remove the top cap and bolt, like you did in the 90s. Would still not recommend, since it leaves you with an ugly hole and potentially water/dirt ingress :D
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Mehhhh more problems, headset is also loose after more rides.
Considering, stripping the parts frame and getting something else at this point.
What size? I may be interested.
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Rode 80 km today and everything is tight. I have hope.
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Now done with my second 268 build. This time the bike is for me.
Frame: Velobuild 268 size 56, color: blue chameleon with glossy black inside of fork and rear triangle
Bar/stem: Velobuild integrated 100/400 mm.
Saddle: Ryet 3D mesh (Pro Stealth II knock off)
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 R7150, 52/36 - 11-34. 170 mm.
Wheels: EliteWheels Edge Gravel 45 mm. 24 mm internal, 31 mm external
Tyres: Continental GrandPrix 5000 in 28 mm (measure 29,5 mm on the wide rims)
Tubes: RideNow TPU 36g
Weight 7,75 kg w/o pedals.
Thoughts
Happy with the overall result. Had problems with installing the SL7-headset expander plug I bought, so will try a normal 80 mm instead, right now I just fitted the included expander plug. Saddle rails are too high (11 mm) for the clamps so the fit is not great. Might try to sand the rails down a bit. Perhaps I should have gone a bit deeper on the wheels, but wanted to try a wide set, and couldn't get them deeper than 45 mm.
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Since I am 1,90 m tall and was allways riding a 58 I went with a 58. Reach is 10 mm more than my old bike so I took a 1 cm shorter stem with 110 mm.
I worked out.
What is your bottom bracket to seat height?
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Nice build. I'm not impressed with the included headset-plug, if it keeps getting loose I would try with a longer one.
Its garbage i bought a better one from pro its 30 euro. Also got that as tip from somebody else on the forum. My boke is almost done.
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Anybody replaced the headset bearings and spacers with original SL7 ones?!
Or any other brand?
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Is this a knock-of frame? Wondering as I wouldn’t want to go with that anymore (168 being the sl7 as a comparison)
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Is this a knock-of frame? Wondering as I wouldn’t want to go with that anymore (168 being the sl7 as a comparison)
VB doesn't sell fakes, but they often sell (arguably) clones. The 268 is a better version of the 168. If the 168 looks like a SL7 to you, then voila. Technically and from memory, i dont think the geometry of the 168 matches exactly the SL7. Clearly though, it's heavily inspired from it.
A fake pretends to be what it isn't, with fake logos and so on. that's illegal in many jurisdictions.
What we refer to as clone is something that looks like the real one, but may or may not differ in some ways, is never sold with the logos, comes from a reputable seller and not some dubious aliexpress seller, and so on.
If you're concerned that this looks like an SL7 but isn't, there's been such a convergence of bike frame because of aerodynamics within UCI rules, that most bikes tend to look alike. The van rysel (not the new aero one) looks a lot like an SL7, but i could list another 10 that look very similar.
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I like the line of thoughts Serge - thank you.
I agree vb is not a fake, what I wanted to say was the heavily inspired geo and tube shapes that are close to a direct copy except the painting and minor details. Now looking at the 268, I spotted a couple of further differences vs the original… I like it
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Received my frame this week - overall positive impression, some minor imperfections in the paint that I can live with. Brake caliper mounts were not properly faced after painting (if at all), will need some work. Did anyone else attempt to resolve without dedicated (expensive...) tooling? Still awaiting delivery of wheels which are a few weeks out, so can't verify caliper fitment yet.
No, its velobuilds own design. (if that's a good or a bad thing, that's up for you to judge. I used a Deda 70mm Expander and a modified compression ring from the SL8 on my VB)
I found that my steerer internal diameter is only approximately Ø22,3-22,6mm - too small for the Deda 70mm expander to fit (requiring >23,5mm). Seems like most readily available alternatives require >23-23,5mm. Anyone else have experience with this? Perhaps the steerer has an inconsistent thickness, will figure out as I cut it down.
I am BTW modeling/mocking-up a 3D-printed spacer/transition piece between the stock headset dust cover and the SL7 stem. Think it can work and look decent enough.
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I found that my steerer internal diameter is only approximately Ø22,3-22,6mm - too small for the Deda 70mm expander to fit (requiring >23,5mm). Seems like most readily available alternatives require >23-23,5mm. Anyone else have experience with this? Perhaps the steerer has an inconsistent thickness, will figure out as I cut it down.
I had a same issue with the deda Expander plug on my 168.
Took off quite a bit of material of the lower part of the expander (and also from the diameter of the upper part, to make sure it could sit flush with the steerer tube). Just took a few minutes of sanding. If you dont have a lathe, use a bolt and chuck those parts in a drill and then sand them to spec.
And i also used that rough clamping tube of the expander to ghetto-ream the steerer tube.
But once it fut
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SRAM RIVAL/Force 2x12
No really big building issues.
Seat clamp is a little lose any solves on that? I put in very much carbon paste LOL.
Headset tube is getting a replace for a better one from PRO.
Tommorow or this evening im going for a small ride.
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Trying to catch up on all my messages. As good practice with budget frames, I always use expander plugs from the brand called "Neco" which can be found on Amazon for like $13-$20. Length large, aluminium or carbon top cap. Not the lightest plug ever but no slippage. Especially if you plan to run spacers above the stem
Yo how patty welcome boys and girls, love your videos man I’m a subscriber by the way.
You mentioned in your first ride initial impressions that you are hearing a creaking sound somewhere on the frame, is there an upcoming follow up video on that?
Is the seatpost stable and not slipping out of the box or did you applied some vinyl plastic on it?
Really like last year’s video where you presented your 3 bike fleet the allez sprint, t1500, and the yoeleo, I have a guy that’s local to me selling a t1500 but am torn about the price vs this vbr 268. That extra 1000 bucks can be spent on other essential parts of the bike. Is 599 inclusive of a custom paint? Needing it in just pearl white finish without branding.
Saludos amigo Patty! Cuidate mi Pana!
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Yo how patty welcome boys and girls, love your videos man I’m a subscriber by the way.
You mentioned in your first ride initial impressions that you are hearing a creaking sound somewhere on the frame, is there an upcoming follow up video on that?
Is the seatpost stable and not slipping out of the box or did you applied some vinyl plastic on it?
Really like last year’s video where you presented your 3 bike fleet the allez sprint, t1500, and the yoeleo, I have a guy that’s local to me selling a t1500 but am torn about the price vs this vbr 268. That extra 1000 bucks can be spent on other essential parts of the bike. Is 599 inclusive of a custom paint? Needing it in just pearl white finish without branding.
Saludos amigo Patty! Cuidate mi Pana!
Ayyyye thanks for the support! My Velobuild bikes and the support of the members here have a been a tremendous help for the channel.
I was able to fix the creak by doing two things:
1. Increased the torque of the seatpost clamp from 6nm to about 7.5nm
2. I changed saddles. The included saddle rail clamps to accommodate 7x9 saddles are flawed. VeloBuild is aware. Using the 7x7 clamps instead along with 7x7 metal rail saddle fixed the issue.
Painting on the VB 268 like $50-$80 extra. If you can get the Winspace T1500 for $1000 then it's worth it. Otherwise yeah use the money for some nice wheels. I really love the Magene Exar Ultra/Dark wheels at the price point.
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Last week on my way home from a ~100k ride, I noticed that the FD wasn't upshifting anymore. At a traffic stop, I reached for it to check if something came loose. And for sure it did. The whole thing was wobbling around quite a bit. Luckily, I was almost home and could ride on the small ring without any major issue.
At closer inspection at home, I realized that not the FD mounting bolt, that I initially had suspected, came loose but one of the screws that hold the mounting boss to the frame. Just by chance the FD casing was blocking the screw from falling out completely otherwise I'm pretty sure I would have lost it. I removed the FD to get access to it, and screwed both in with some medium lock tight. Hoping they won't come loose again.
I still have the issue that my headset comes loose even when tightening it down properly. I redid it a couple of times now and initially everything is fine. After around 30-40k it would come loose again - probably from the vibrations of the road and the occasional lowered manhole covers you have to ride over. I checked the expander plug and it sits snug and tight. I also applied 6nm to the steerer bolts (up from the recommended 5nm) in hopes that would help it. I think it held on a little longer but not much. Anyone else has another idea of what to try?
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I always use an aftermarket expander plug on all my budget framesets. The included ones have a tendency to be troublesome. Neco Headset Expander and Top Cap from Amazon in a large length works wonders. Not just to prevent expander plug slipping, but for more tension area inside of the steer tube for the steerer bolts to tighten against. The expander plug really should extend beyond the length of the bottom two steerer bolts.
Also inspect to ensure the initial setup of the expander plug is recessed around 4-6mm below the stem/steerer before installing the top cap. It could be a case of not enough clearance for proper top cap preload.
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I really don't think it's the compression plugs fault. Yes, the included one isn't top quality and it's not the longest - but still long enough to extend beyond both bolts. It also sits absolutely snug, does not move or turn, and also did not slip upwards as I had happened with another plug.
I cut the fork short about 2-3mm, so there is enough room for initial compression. 4-6mm sounds a bit excessive, never heard anyone cut that much (on purpose :D ). Pre-loading works without an issue; another reason why I don't think the plug is at fault. I can tighten the bearings beyond reason; I could go so hard that the fork will barely move anymore (was just for a test, so don't worry).
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Hi guys,
Got a 268 on order - hopefully arriving soon! Have been running the 086-D for the past 3 years and have done 10,000km on it. Slipping seatpost seems to have been the only issue but good enough to persuade me to buy another VB frame.
I've noticed this frame comes with the Mavic Speed Release system (whyyyyy???) and was wondering if these can be replaced with standard thru-axles, obviously with the correct matching thread? I will be using this bike on and off the turbo this winter and it sounds like a bit of a faff with this system unless you buy a replacement set. On that note - are there any UK distributors of matching axles I can order before it turns up?
I've also ordered an SL7 replica expander plug, and will be running SRAM AXS parts that are on my current build. Any other suggestions of things I should puchase/know before building the bike?
Thanks in advance :D
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Long time lurker first time build here. Ordered a 54 gloss white frame w the 38/100 integrated bars a few weeks ago.
Looking to run 105 DI2 as I picked up during a sale last year.
Has anyone made a direct mount hanger like a few did for the 168 frame?
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Hi guys,
Got a 268 on order - hopefully arriving soon! Have been running the 086-D for the past 3 years and have done 10,000km on it. Slipping seatpost seems to have been the only issue but good enough to persuade me to buy another VB frame.
I've noticed this frame comes with the Mavic Speed Release system (whyyyyy???) and was wondering if these can be replaced with standard thru-axles, obviously with the correct matching thread? I will be using this bike on and off the turbo this winter and it sounds like a bit of a faff with this system unless you buy a replacement set. On that note - are there any UK distributors of matching axles I can order before it turns up?
I've also ordered an SL7 replica expander plug, and will be running SRAM AXS parts that are on my current build. Any other suggestions of things I should puchase/know before building the bike?
Thanks in advance :D
I was also frustrated with the SpeedRelease system. To be fair I works fine, but makes absolutely no sense when we already got a nice working industry standard. I almost bought an 168 just of this reason. If the threads line up with normal TA's I can't se why a normal 12 mm axle wouldn't fit. Maybe you can just order another set Speedrelease-axles from Velobuild? I built two 268's, could only fit a SL7-expander plug in one of the frames, as it was way way to tight in one of the frames and almost got completely stuck in the steerer tube, so fitted a traditional 80 mm Pro expander in that particular bike - instead of the 30 mm included. Be aware that the carbon rail specific seat clamps only fit up to 9 mm "high" rails, my Ryet carbon saddle (Pro Stealth II knock off) had 11 mm high rails that I had to file down. You might need som Di2 grommets for the cable exit ports on the frame. Cheers
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Ayyyye thanks for the support! My Velobuild bikes and the support of the members here have a been a tremendous help for the channel.
I was able to fix the creak by doing two things:
1. Increased the torque of the seatpost clamp from 6nm to about 7.5nm
2. I changed saddles. The included saddle rail clamps to accommodate 7x9 saddles are flawed. VeloBuild is aware. Using the 7x7 clamps instead along with 7x7 metal rail saddle fixed the issue.
Painting on the VB 268 like $50-$80 extra. If you can get the Winspace T1500 for $1000 then it's worth it. Otherwise yeah use the money for some nice wheels. I really love the Magene Exar Ultra/Dark wheels at the price point.
Sheesh thanks for your service Pat on all these videos you churning out man!
Finally placed my order today, hoping to the shipping gods that it will arrive before a race that I will be attending on the 21st of September jeez!
How many weeks have you guys received yours? I opted to go just the stock matte black and would probably repaint it next year or so in order to save shipping times
Got the NECO Large headset expander as well, props to you again Pat!
Keep the videos coming! ordered a 53-39 Crankset, an equally pancake flat that is Abu Dhabi comparable to Chi-town.
Lovin all those RnB in between references as well
Lastly, PAT do you ever recommend those Ceramic BB86 from Aliexpress?
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Welp I've tried everything to fix headset play from a slipping expander plug. Tried carbon grip paste, then Neco large headset expander, and then cutting the stem a few more mm. Nothing has stopped the headset from coming loose after about an hour into a ride. Even tried overtorquing the expander plug and it still will slip. Think this thing is a lost cause at this point.1
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Is it your expander plug that's slipping or the steerer bolts that don't hold in place?
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Is it your expander plug that's slipping or the steerer bolts that don't hold in place?
The expander plug without a doubt is rising up and leading to the loose headset
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Yeah if that's the case then your issue definitely comes from that. Mine isn't rising and I'm pretty sure it's not turning either. So I guess we have different issues leading to the same outcome.
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The expander plug without a doubt is rising up and leading to the loose headset
I've tried the Neco expanders and tons them to be of very low quality. On my last Velobuild, I had good luck getting rid of headset play with a different compression ring. Eventually, I switched the entire cockpit to The One Pro and never had any issues with it.
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Which VB bike was that? If they fit the 268 as well, I might consider changing the cockpit if that fixes it for good.
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I had luck today overtorquing the expander and under torquing the top cap. Like 14NM on the plug and like 2nm on the top cap. I finally was able to complete a 2 hour ride without slipping but it still was a bit loose, only noticed small amount of play if I applied the front breaks hard or cornered quickly. The expander plug and integrated handlebar bolts are so stripped at this point lol. New bolts and plug are ordered, but I think I will have to live with this for the time being. I am getting creaking from the seat clamp, I see Patty says the carbon seat clamps are flawed... I am not looking to spend more money on this thing. Looking to swap to a different frame asap. Maybe a Allez Sprint or get something from winspace next time they run a sale.
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Which VB bike was that? If they fit the 268 as well, I might consider changing the cockpit if that fixes it for good.
It was a 177. I would maybe try a different compression ring or two before going for a full cockpit switch, unless you really want to go this route anyway. The One Pro comes with two different compression rings (one alloy and one some kind of nylon/plastic) that wrap all the way around the steerer. I had luck with aftermarket C shaped rings, as well.
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Sheesh thanks for your service Pat on all these videos you churning out man!
Finally placed my order today, hoping to the shipping gods that it will arrive before a race that I will be attending on the 21st of September jeez!
How many weeks have you guys received yours? I opted to go just the stock matte black and would probably repaint it next year or so in order to save shipping times
Got the NECO Large headset expander as well, props to you again Pat!
Keep the videos coming! ordered a 53-39 Crankset, an equally pancake flat that is Abu Dhabi comparable to Chi-town.
Lovin all those RnB in between references as well
Lastly, PAT do you ever recommend those Ceramic BB86 from Aliexpress?
Thank you! A lot of my early YouTube success has come from the support of this very forum. Especially for VeloBuild.
Shipping took about 2-3 weeks. Regarding bottom brackets, I stay away from the AliExpress stuff personally. Wheels MFG makes super reliable BBs for BB86 if you're running Shimano cranks.
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Has anyone found a direct mount hanger to work on the 268?
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My build of a mix match of parts. Yet to be properly ridden!
SRAM AXS Force/Rival setup. The paint job is incredible - was sparkling in the sunshine, went with the Purple Chameleon.
Used the SL7 replica steerer plug and it was a VERY snug fit so hopefully should be staying in place. I took the metal rings of the Mavic Thru Axles and now they act like normal thru axles which is ideal - I could hear them rattling around inside my frame which was a nuisance.
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My build of a mix match of parts. Yet to be properly ridden!
SRAM AXS Force/Rival setup. The paint job is incredible - was sparkling in the sunshine, went with the Purple Chameleon.
Used the SL7 replica steerer plug and it was a VERY snug fit so hopefully should be staying in place. I took the metal rings of the Mavic Thru Axles and now they act like normal thru axles which is ideal - I could hear them rattling around inside my frame which was a nuisance.
That looks goooood!
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That looks goooood!
Thanks! Really happy with it - just need to take it out when it's not raining now!!
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I completed my build approximately one month and 1,000 km ago, and I thought I would share some impressions and experiences. Communication with Velobuild went well, as did the tax-included shipping to Europe, which took just under three weeks. The frame size is 49 cm, and I chose the color "glossy pearl white" after seeing some great pictures earlier in the thread. The color looks just as impressive in person, although there are some minor imperfections in the paint (a couple of matte spots and some "orange peel"). Nothing I can't live with for the price.
I ordered the frame without the handlebar but with the stem. I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the stem (nor did I really intend to) based on the quality of workmanship it exhibited. I tossed it in the bin. Instead, I modeled and 3D-printed a custom transition piece in CF-reinforced nylon, between the stock headset dust cap and a genuine SL7 stem with corresponding spacers. It turned out quite well.
I opted to use a DEDA 70 mm expander plug, and the installation almost ended in disaster. It was oversized for the fork steerer’s internal diameter, so I had to turn/sand down the diameter of the end pieces. However, I misjudged the flexibility of the middle piece, and it began to get stuck about three-quarters of the way down during installation. I had to resort to an almost uncomfortable level of force, hammering it down with a rubber mallet, but it got there in the end. On the plus side, I’m sure it will never slip. Be careful if you plan to use this expander—don't repeat my mistake!
While the included headset bearings seemed fine, I installed stainless bearings from the start, hoping they’ll be "set and forget." The brake caliper mount faces were not properly masked during painting, so I had to carefully file/sand them down. To my relief, I haven’t encountered any alignment or rubbing issues so far.
Apart from the issues mentioned above, the build went smoothly without any major concerns. I used 105 Di2 except for the front derailleur and cassette (Ultegra), and rotors and chain (Dura-Ace). Routing the Di2 cables and brake hoses went smoothly after drilling/Dremeling out the hole in the front derailleur port. I bought the 3D-printed battery seatpost wedge that was linked earlier in the thread. The wheels are AR56 from LB, and the handlebar is PRO Vibe aero carbon. The included mounting hardware has worked fine with the PRO Turnix carbon rail saddle.
I had concerns about the speed-release axles, but they’ve worked flawlessly so far, and I would even say they're convenient. The small hex screw holding the derailleur hanger in place needs to be quite loose, though—otherwise, the thru-axle binds in the threads as it misaligns the hanger. I secured it with Loctite, and it hasn’t caused any issues since.
Would I buy again? Yes!
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I've used the deda hss expander before and found due to the design (no spring so doesn't return fully closed...), you should clamp it with water pump pliers before inserting it to make it a little smaller!
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I've used the deda hss expander before and found due to the design (no spring so doesn't return fully closed...), you should clamp it with water pump pliers before inserting it to make it a little smaller!
Good advice, I did exactly that but as evident it wasn’t really enough for my steerer (you can only compress the expander so much).
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Short report from me.
Everything is running nicely and after retightening my headset after the first ride I did not have to tighten it again. This all with the standard parts dedivered by Velobuild.
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Glad it works for you. Headset didn't come loose again? How much torque did you apply to the compression plug and stem bolts?
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Since I always stop before the max torque when doing it by hand, I stopped using a torque wrench after a few years of using one. So, I cannot answer the question.
The plug rather loose but the stem rather tighter.
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I completed my build approximately one month and 1,000 km ago, and I thought I would share some impressions and experiences. Communication with Velobuild went well, as did the tax-included shipping to Europe, which took just under three weeks. The frame size is 49 cm, and I chose the color "glossy pearl white" after seeing some great pictures earlier in the thread. The color looks just as impressive in person, although there are some minor imperfections in the paint (a couple of matte spots and some "orange peel"). Nothing I can't live with for the price.
I ordered the frame without the handlebar but with the stem. I wouldn’t feel comfortable using the stem (nor did I really intend to) based on the quality of workmanship it exhibited. I tossed it in the bin. Instead, I modeled and 3D-printed a custom transition piece in CF-reinforced nylon, between the stock headset dust cap and a genuine SL7 stem with corresponding spacers. It turned out quite well.
I opted to use a DEDA 70 mm expander plug, and the installation almost ended in disaster. It was oversized for the fork steerer’s internal diameter, so I had to turn/sand down the diameter of the end pieces. However, I misjudged the flexibility of the middle piece, and it began to get stuck about three-quarters of the way down during installation. I had to resort to an almost uncomfortable level of force, hammering it down with a rubber mallet, but it got there in the end. On the plus side, I’m sure it will never slip. Be careful if you plan to use this expander—don't repeat my mistake!
While the included headset bearings seemed fine, I installed stainless bearings from the start, hoping they’ll be "set and forget." The brake caliper mount faces were not properly masked during painting, so I had to carefully file/sand them down. To my relief, I haven’t encountered any alignment or rubbing issues so far.
Apart from the issues mentioned above, the build went smoothly without any major concerns. I used 105 Di2 except for the front derailleur and cassette (Ultegra), and rotors and chain (Dura-Ace). Routing the Di2 cables and brake hoses went smoothly after drilling/Dremeling out the hole in the front derailleur port. I bought the 3D-printed battery seatpost wedge that was linked earlier in the thread. The wheels are AR56 from LB, and the handlebar is PRO Vibe aero carbon. The included mounting hardware has worked fine with the PRO Turnix carbon rail saddle.
I had concerns about the speed-release axles, but they’ve worked flawlessly so far, and I would even say they're convenient. The small hex screw holding the derailleur hanger in place needs to be quite loose, though—otherwise, the thru-axle binds in the threads as it misaligns the hanger. I secured it with Loctite, and it hasn’t caused any issues since.
Would I buy again? Yes!
Clean looking build! Especially the cockpit area, nice work
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Hello everyone,
First, thanks for the hundreds of really helpful messages about this frame :)
I have received the frame. I'm having a bit of difficulty to route the shifting cable for the front derailleur. There seems to be too much of a bend in the cable to properly seat in the cable pass through bracket. I have read several times that the metallic piece needs to be modified with a dremel so that the cable end cap sit more horizontally in the grommet. I have carefully started to drill the upper part but it seems not enough to have the cable properly seated inside. I'm using regular Shimano ot-sp41 outer cable.
I'm afraid that if the cable runs too much horizontally in the grommet, the inner cable may enter in contact with the tire or in order to prevent it, the inner cable will be bent too much when tightened to the RD.
I would appreciate any information or pictures on how you managed to have a mechanical front derailleur installed and route the cable.
Thanks
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Has anyone considered or tried a SL7 transition cover instead of the supplied VeloBuild cover?
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Velobuild paints the cover so it fits the frame colour.
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Anyone has experience with orders to UK? Chris advised to choose cheaper delivery method and pay custom duties. Really wish to pay more for delivery and be sure to receive parcel without any hassle.
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Anyone has experience with orders to UK? Chris advised to choose cheaper delivery method and pay custom duties. Really wish to pay more for delivery and be sure to receive parcel without any hassle.
Given the sales volumes Chris, and having dealt numerous times with customs myself, if he suggests that, it will probably end up being cheaper, wouldnt be in his own interest to advise something worse for you, and i m pretty sure their margin on all shipping methods is similar. The parcel gets stopped, you get a letter, you have to pay something, and then it's delivered to you. if you have documents ready (ask him the value declared on the parcel and make sure you have some invoice that shows that), it can delay delivery by only a few days.
And if budget is no object, dont get a VB :)
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Anyone has experience with orders to UK? Chris advised to choose cheaper delivery method and pay custom duties. Really wish to pay more for delivery and be sure to receive parcel without any hassle.
I paid for the cheaper delivery and arrived in about 14 days from dispatch. I didn't get charged any custom duties - I've only been charged for one order from China ever - a set of cheap wheels. Only cost me about £20 as they always mark down the actual price on the box.
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How is the quality of velobuild these days? I'm considering a frame from them...
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So, my build is done 8)
Looks Awesome! which size did you get ? I am currently undecided between an S and an M and try to figure out which is visually more appealing to me..
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I'm really proud to show you my latest build:
Frame: Velobuild 268 size 54, color: Ice break red fade to black
Bar/stem: Velobuild integrated 110/420 mm
Saddle: RXL Carbon saddle
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8170, 50/34 - 11-30. 172,5 mm
Wheels: Farsport Feder 45 mm 28 mm external
Tyres: Continental Ultra Sport III 700x28 mm
Tubes: RideNow TPU 36g
Weight 7,3 kg with Garmin support and bottle cages, w/o pedals. 8)
I am very happy with the result, considering that this is my first assembly of a bicycle with an electronic groupset and hydraulic brakes. I didn't have any particular problems during assembly, apart from a little worry when cutting the brake lines to length.
I covered 120+ km over the weekend and everything went smoothly: the bike responds very well to stress and is stiffer than my VB 168.
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I'm really proud to show you my latest build:
Frame: Velobuild 268 size 54, color: Ice break red fade to black
Bar/stem: Velobuild integrated 110/420 mm
Saddle: RXL Carbon saddle
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2 R8170, 50/34 - 11-30. 172,5 mm
Wheels: Farsport Feder 45 mm 28 mm external
Tyres: Continental Ultra Sport III 700x28 mm
Tubes: RideNow TPU 36g
Weight 7,3 kg with Garmin support and bottle cages, w/o pedals. 8)
I am very happy with the result, considering that this is my first assembly of a bicycle with an electronic groupset and hydraulic brakes. I didn't have any particular problems during assembly, apart from a little worry when cutting the brake lines to length.
I covered 120+ km over the weekend and everything went smoothly: the bike responds very well to stress and is stiffer than my VB 168.
do you use the seatpost cover from another bike or did velobuild finally update theirs?
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do you use the seatpost cover from another bike or did velobuild finally update theirs?
I've used a seatpost cover bought from Aliexpress. The one supplied by Velobuild is longer in the back, not so nice to see...
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I've used a seatpost cover bought from Aliexpress. The one supplied by Velobuild is longer in the back, not so nice to see...
Would you mind sharing the link?
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Guys I'd like to build a road bike after years of MTB. I have one stupid question with regards to seatposts. So I got used to round seatposts (droppers) but here this build 268 has oval shaped seatpost. How can I know what replacement seatpost to buy if I ever needed one? Where could I buy replacement? Thanks!
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Those oval seatpost are almost all proprietary, so you can only use the one VB provides. They offer spares if you need one. How long though, nobody knows. Wouldn't count on still getting one in 10 years.
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Guys I'd like to build a road bike after years of MTB. I have one stupid question with regards to seatposts. So I got used to round seatposts (droppers) but here this build 268 has oval shaped seatpost. How can I know what replacement seatpost to buy if I ever needed one? Where could I buy replacement? Thanks!
you can order extra seatpost with your frame
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Well that's a bummer. Why they do that... :-\
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Well that's a bummer. Why they do that... :-\
The seat clamp also slips, so as you ride the seat angle will begin to shift around. No replacing that and if you ask Velo build they will ghost you.
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Well that's a bummer. Why they do that... :-\
Its a mystery
This is why, for now at least, I only buy frames with round seatposts.
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Well that's a bummer. Why they do that... :-\
Design and aerodynamics.
A round tube is less aerodynamic than a tear drop shaped object.
And tube shapes matter from a design standpoint: you can spot a pinarello from far away because it's got distinct tube shapes.
Neither of these elements negates the fact that round seat tubes have their own advantages.
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The new frame VR-R-268 is a product of the present trend in pro bike racing.
So here few points.
#1. Aerodynamics is the major element that pro racer looks for. The pro riders know their CdA and how to decrease it.
The more aero you are the faster you go for the same power.
#2 CdA is the quantitative measurement of aerodynamic drag. The "A" is the frontal area of both the rider and the bike presented to the wind in the direction you travel. You can decrease the "riders part" of the A by being on the drops instead of seating up. VB has paid a lot of attention to this part.
#3 Cd is the coefficient of drag. For example if you place a flat disk in a wind tunnel and make the A=1 the surface area will be 1 but the force the wind actually exert on the disk is a little higher let's say 1.15. So the CdA will be 1 x 1.15= 1.15. Now instead of flat disk, place cone with the tip forward and a front area the same A=1, but now the coefficient of drag will be far lower so the total CdA will be far lower (that is the reason why bullets for example are not flat at the front). Here VB has done a superb job in decreasing the Cd.
#4 VB aerobike like the VR-R-268 is aimed at decreasing the Cd even if in some cases you may have a little weight penalty. Lower seat stays with a flat top, aero seat-post, kamm tail the downtube and a very nice combination of the seat-tube and rear wheel-tires to make the air flow smooth. The seat-post in the present bikes is more exposed comparing with years past so an aero seat-post is a must. VB has done a great job here.
5. The rider also has a "A" and "Cd". The "A" is obvious the more down the rider is the smaller the "A" but the "Cd" is not as clear, racer used to adopt the "puppy paws" position (which now is ban)etc. The point here is that the position on the bike has changed and VB has done everything possible to allow this change. The seat is more forward as much as you can without braking the UCI rules "The tip of the saddle shall be a minimum of 50 mm to the rear of a vertical plane passing through the bottom bracket spindle." This forward position allow to open the leg body angle so you do not hit your body when you pedal. VB zero-offset seat-post goes along with this trend. Also rider use short saddles to go around this rule.
6. Along with #5 the back is flat and when racers place hand on the hood but keep the forearms flat (the most aero position) it is important than the angle between arms and forearms is 90 degrees or less so the distance between between brake hood and saddle is smaller than in the past, so you want a short top tube. To accomplish this aspect, pro racers are choosing smaller bikes than before. VB has a small frame and a 9 cm stem as the smallest. VB is ok here, even it could have offered an 8cm stem.
7. Components are also part of this trend. Cranks are shorter that were in the past, for example Tadej (176 cm) is using a 165 mm crank, Filippo Ganna (193 cm) iirc use a 170 crank for the hour record, MVP (184 cm) is in 172.5. The smaller cranks offer aero advantage, and also you are working in the area where mechanically you are stronger. Of course you need gears that you can spin. VB is compatible with all the component manufactures.
6. In pro racing mixing areas with good asphalt with unpaved or gravel road are becoming very common. Having a frame that accepts different width tires is important so you do not need to have a different bike for each terrain. VB has done a great job here allowing as to use tires up to 32. Many other frame manufactures have aero bike but basically designed around the 28 mm now standard in road racing. With this VB frame you can have 2 sets of wheels like a road with 28mm tire and wider rim wheel with a 32 mm gravel tire and if you want to do some rough single track gravel you just change the wheel.
7. Aerodynamics are important in flat terrain but also during climbing when you have a head wind, or the grade is not very steep, having you body down help, you can feel it on your legs and also if you have the correct setup, you may see the CdA not increasing. Few of the pro's climb with the forearm flat on the top of the handlebar.
7. The only part the VB has not touch for aerodynamics is the flared handlebars. The UCI set also rules there and a small flare would be OK. This rules changed in Jan 2024 included the brake levers angles and it may change again.
In summary VB offers a high quality frame with almost all the features that are trending in pro racing, before I got it I look around and I could not find one that I could place a check mark in each of the features I wanted with the exception of VB-R 264.
I have been trying to explain why the the VB-R-268 is my choice. VB has many frames with different features and for many of us may be better. I have more than a month since I start to ride, which I do everyday, in different terrains, with a 28 tire you can do most of the gravel. Sometime next year I will get a "gravel" wheel to do single track.
Chris has been great with fast replies to all my questions, so to have a good online service is also important part of the frame. I am very happy with this bike.
Note: I got and extra seat-post and seat-post clamp when I placed the order for the frame, I like to have them as spare and the price was very reasonable. The seat-post seem very solid and very nicely made so most likely I will never need them.
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can someone tell me how high the headset cover is that ships with the 268?
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can someone tell me how high the headset cover is that ships with the 268?
If you are referring to the top cup cover it is easy, I can remove it and measure it. If on the other hand you are talking about the to headset cover, it is not easy in these frames with integrated cables. Measuring "without removing" it is about 1.5 cm.
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Hello, I ordered my VB-R268 end of september and the frame is still to be picked up by DPD. It‘s already been a week since I got the package tracking info.
Nevertheless I‘m very excited for the frame to arrive after everything I‘ve read so far on the forum. Can somebody tell me if the provided spacers are of an upgraded breakaway type, as seen on the new road bikes from Canyon, so that one can easily adjust the effective stack of the bike.
If not, do you know of any .stl files out there, so that I can 3D-print them myself?
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Hello, I ordered my VB-R268 end of september and the frame is still to be picked up by DPD. It‘s already been a week since I got the package tracking info.
Nevertheless I‘m very excited for the frame to arrive after everything I‘ve read so far on the forum. Can somebody tell me if the provided spacers are of an upgraded breakaway type, as seen on the new road bikes from Canyon, so that one can easily adjust the effective stack of the bike.
If not, do you know of any .stl files out there, so that I can 3D-print them myself?
Yes they look like the ones in the last photo on the page below and come in a few different sizes so you can use one or combine them.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing (https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing)
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Yes they look like the ones in the last photo on the page below and come in a few different sizes so you can use one or combine them.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing (https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing)
Also, they are of excellent quality made from aluminum.
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Yes they look like the ones in the last photo on the page below and come in a few different sizes so you can use one or combine them.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing (https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing)
I do not know if you are familiar with integrated cables but if they are integrated it is very hard if not impossible to change the height of the stack without redoing the hydraulic cables which in pro hands takes about 4 hours.
A tip that I did not know when I setup my frame is that if you ride on rough roads you may hear the rattling of the hydraulic cables against the frame mainly the downtube. You can find an internal damper house foam sleeve, jagwire makes one, I believe were the first to come up with this gadget. I already bough them, so when the winter hits hard I plan to do it. I'm an old fashion and I ride with nothing in my ears so I can heard what ever is around me.
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After riding only mtb bikes for 5y now, and beliving I wouldn't dare ride a road bike... I couldn't resist the urge.
Pulled the trigger on vb268, icebreak red color, 56 size. I was inspired by all your builds here, and am aware of some reoccuring issues (slipping seatpost, mavic TA's, loose headsets), but I'm confident in my bike repair skills and dozen of builds from ground up. Btw, spare seatpost cost is funny, 30 bucks. I asked Chris and he told me just to put "carbon seatpost" in the basket and they'll send the one for 268. That's nice, since it's pretty cheap. Sizing was somewhat a problem since I don't really know roadie geocharts. But I was following Pat Lino since I'm his size, 1cm taller. Only thing I am noticing in geo charts is this:
Tarmac has higher stack in the recommended size (L) than 268, and not by a small amount. Propel is on the same track as well. Reach I managed with 420x110mm integrated bar (I think so?), but am wondering if the stem spacers will be enough to highten the stack, if it be too low for me.
If someone here, of all you good people, could give me some guidance on this, I'd be gratefull.
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Height is one thing, but leg length is very important. And ape index (whether your arms are longer than your height). I think lino said he has short legs.
I rode bikes that were too big for me for years because I'm 184, but my saddle height is 81cm (long legs), and so, short torso, so short top tube. I do have a positive ape index so I can fit myself on large bikes, but I'm much more comfortable on medium ones.
There's also a question of flexibility, if you're nimble, you can hinge at the hips more, and fit yourself easier on a bike.
If you're starting with no road geometry info, you may want to consider an alu bar and alu stem (cost virtually nothing) to find the right coordinates, then buy the right cockpit. 42cm is badly outdated in width, I've been riding 36cm bars all season and I'm never going back.
I went from 36*80 to 36*100 over the summer. And I may have cut my steerer 1cm too short...
Also, as you ride more, your body will adapt, so day one position will differ from day 90 position.
In your shoes, I'd run alu bar and stem and external routing as much as possible to make changes easy, then after months, get the right cockpit. And don't cut the steerer too soon. The extra 2cm in the stem makes me want to have the cockpit higher for ideal aero position, and I cut it too soon. Vanity.
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Height is one thing, but leg length is very important. And ape index (whether your arms are longer than your height). I think lino said he has short legs.
I rode bikes that were too big for me for years because I'm 184, but my saddle height is 81cm (long legs), and so, short torso, so short top tube. I do have a positive ape index so I can fit myself on large bikes, but I'm much more comfortable on medium ones.
There's also a question of flexibility, if you're nimble, you can hinge at the hips more, and fit yourself easier on a bike.
If you're starting with no road geometry info, you may want to consider an alu bar and alu stem (cost virtually nothing) to find the right coordinates, then buy the right cockpit. 42cm is badly outdated in width, I've been riding 36cm bars all season and I'm never going back.
I went from 36*80 to 36*100 over the summer. And I may have cut my steerer 1cm too short...
Also, as you ride more, your body will adapt, so day one position will differ from day 90 position.
In your shoes, I'd run alu bar and stem and external routing as much as possible to make changes easy, then after months, get the right cockpit. And don't cut the steerer too soon. The extra 2cm in the stem makes me want to have the cockpit higher for ideal aero position, and I cut it too soon. Vanity.
Thanks Serge, I've learned alot reading your posts here! And this one is a nice lesson as well. I could really do like you advised, buy some cheap alu bar-stem and try it out. But still I need to choose bar-stem from VB. I was wondering if 42cm is too wide, and I could contsct Chris to change it to 400-100, or 40-110. Not sure.
Also, since you are 184 as I am, do you think L sized 268 could be too small for me?
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Thanks Serge, I've learned alot reading your posts here! And this one is a nice lesson as well. I could really do like you advised, buy some cheap alu bar-stem and try it out. But still I need to choose bar-stem from VB. I was wondering if 42cm is too wide, and I could contsct Chris to change it to 400-100, or 40-110. Not sure.
Also, since you are 184 as I am, do you think L sized 268 could be too small for me?
Happy to help. There's almost no chance L would be too small. The danger is that it's too big. I'd get a medium in that frame myself. If 36 sounds scary, if you can, change to 38. Max 40. It's free speed, really. You can check BMC, they now ship 36cm cockpits with all their expensive road bikes. That's it.
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well, I'm also 181cm tall and the saddle height is 82cm, I also have long legs and a short torso, but I've never gone down from a size XL, except for a look 595 15 years ago, which I bought in size L.
medium size would be impossible for me and also for a professional cyclist. you would have a difference in height of 15/17 cm saddle / handlebars.
unless you put 6/7cm of spacers on the handlebars.
terrible
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Mines coming together finally, took inspiration from the naked clear coated one from sites earlier, but went without logo.
(https://i.ibb.co/h1kvCnH/signal-2024-10-28-132940.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gFGC6Xw)
Still waiting for the flat mount spacer up front end weight will be likely 7.8ish kg.
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For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.
I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.
It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.
Advise me please, my roadie elders.
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For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.
I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.
It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.
Advise me please, my roadie elders.
I have not build up this frame, but others. 2 tips:
1. search youtube for cable routing through the bars. Very good tutorials
2. Use a routing kit for the frame. When I first did my Hygge frame I thought I could do it without the routing kit. After struggling with it for an hour I finally grabbed the routing kit and after a few minutes it was done.
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For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.
I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.
It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.
Advise me please, my roadie elders.
I built 4 VB w sensah mechanical. And 5 with ltwoo electronic. if you take your time, you will manage, plenty of videos online on how to proceed. Things to keep in mind:
Not all frames are mechanical compatible (this one is)
route the right hoses around the steerer, there's little room for error (dont route them all on one side, don't kink them...).
Be mindful of assembly sequence (spacers are usually 2 part, but headset bits will not be, so make sure you have the right bits in the right order in the right orientation before you route the hoses through the bars.
Bends in the bar mean the hoses will not freely slide unless you're very lucky / have a forgiving cockpit, so route the frame 1st, then the bars, and that will be the worst bit.
Obviously, you can't do it without a bike stand, and even then, you'll probably need tools like a routing kit (5 bucks), fine picks and files (ditto).
Dont forget to grease bearings area, as you really wont want to service that nightmare often.
Push extra hose into the frame as much as you can, because if you put the bike in a box for travel, you may have to disconnect things, and re-bleed brakes, cutting down hose, putting new olives...
I prefer plastic C rings & plastic spacers because it's easier to compress and is more forgiving. You might have issues with headset bits rubbing on the frame, so you might think you're done only to realize you have to undo everything to add something somewhere so it doesnt rub.
Anticipate and make sure you have good / strong lighting where you work.
Over the summer i swapped my cockpit on my er9 bike. It still took me 2 days...
None of this is fun. Good luck.
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Obviously, you can't do it without a bike stand, and even then, you'll probably need tools like a routing kit (5 bucks), fine picks and files (ditto).
My method Ive developed always works and I pass 4 cable through in less than an hour with really no equipment. I begin by shoving the cable through from the back of the bike and keep jamming the cable in until it shows up out the headset. Now for the handlebars just go ahead and jam the cable in and keep jamming until they appear near the hole, I then use tweezers to extract the cable. You should prebend the cable in the arc you need it to make once its inserted. All that jamming may have mangled the tip of the cable so go ahead and trim it. Not even kidding this is foolproof and doesnt do a bit of damage to frame or bars
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Thank you all for advices. How about shifting performance after couple of months of riding? Does it degrade noticably? Because my MTB mechanical xt group literally doesn't need maintenance. It simply shifts. And I do ride it, 5-6 times a week.
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Hi, in a few days I will order my 268.
I would like to mount it with 105 mechanical r7120, hydraulic brakes and Elite ent 38mm rims (with upgraded pillar 1420 spokes).
In order not to make mistakes when ordering the rims, can you tell me which options to select between:
Wheel width: 12x100 12x142 or QRx100 QRx135
Wheel depth: SHIMAN0 11S or SRAM XDR 12S
Hub type: Center Lock or 6 Bolt Lock
thanks guys
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Hi, in a few days I will order my 268.
I would like to mount it with 105 mechanical r7120, hydraulic brakes and Elite ent 38mm rims (with upgraded pillar 1420 spokes).
In order not to make mistakes when ordering the rims, can you tell me which options to select between:
Wheel width: 12x100 12x142 or QRx100 QRx135
Wheel depth: SHIMAN0 11S or SRAM XDR 12S
Hub type: Center Lock or 6 Bolt Lock
thanks guys
You want 12x100 12x142, SHIMANO 11S, hub type depends on the disc rotors you are going to use, I think r7120 uses center lock but double check
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Thank you!
Does anyone know if Velobuild usually has discounts for 11.11 or black friday? 8)
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They had discounts last year.
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Thank you!
Does anyone know if Velobuild usually has discounts for 11.11 or black friday? 8)
Does the 11.11 sale here refer to the sale on Aliexpress? Is it from their own website?
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I also seem to struggle with the headset. The long cheapo expander I bought seems solid, but I do wonder whether something else seems to add play like the upper bearing expander ring. Have other experimented with the gap from the expanders top to the edge of the handlebar/stem top?
Can others actually get the bearings to bind when tightening? Mine doesn't ever, even when I tighten the top bolt to crazy levels.
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I also seem to struggle with the headset. The long cheapo expander I bought seems solid, but I do wonder whether something else seems to add play like the upper bearing expander ring. Have other experimented with the gap from the expanders top to the edge of the handlebar/stem top?
Can others actually get the bearings to bind when tightening? Mine doesn't ever, even when I tighten the top bolt to crazy levels.
you need to have several mm of space, before you compress the top car, between the steerer and the top of the stem / top cap. it's that space that gets compressed to tighten the column.
if you tighten the top cap endlessly, unscrew and check: the plug probably moved up inside the steerer, instead of compressing the whole system.
If that's the case, then torque the plug more (i routinely do 8-10nm), consider carbon paste (i dont think it helps, but maybe). Do NOT compress to these levels if the steerer is NOT in situ surrounded by the stem, as the steerer deforms and i have no idea how much torque it would take to crack it. But if the stem & bearings are resisting the expansion, you can do 8-10 w/o problems.
If your problem is different, then there's probably something wonky with your setup somewhere else, like spacers contacting the frame when they shouldnt or something like that.
I ought to try picking up a girl at my next date talking about compressing steering columns. Along with different hardness of aluminum, I feel this should be very interesting to ladies.
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Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:
Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes
I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.
Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:
- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.
- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?
Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!
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Hey guys i'm new to the forum this is my first post here. IIRC Patrick Lino introduced me to the forum. Shoutout to you, love your content! Got the VB-R-268 on the way. Size M in the beautiful pearl white glossy colour. Build will be as following:
Groupset: 105 Di2
Crankset: Magene PES505 Powermeter
Saddle: Ryet Carbon 3D printed
Wheels: Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix w/ tpu inner tubes
I already got the wheels as a secondary wheelset for my gravel bike. Since i realized that i really like roadbiking i've decided to build a dedicated roadbike around those wheels. If i had known that i will build a roadbike with these wheels i would probably have gone for a slightly deeper rim but i think the 38mm will work for the beginning.
Before all my parts arrive i have two questions about installing the Di2 on this particular frame:
- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.
- My second question is about the rubber grommets to cover the holes for the Di2 cables. As far as i'm aware there are none included. Do you have a recommendation for grommets that fit well for this frame?
Would love to get your help regarding these two questions. Of course i will post pictures as soon as the build is finished. Greetings from germany!
1: I didn't have that problem. I too run Di2. If yours are too tight I would probably use af Dremel.
2: I just bought some "Di2 grommets rubber plug" from "Pandabicycles store" on AliExpress. 8 mm. For the rear. Haven't found a good solution for the front derailleur Di2-cable as the hole is rectangular and the cable comes out in 45 degrees. Perhaps I will just give it some liquid electrical tape or silicone.
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Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.
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Hi
Do you have any trusted email’s person to contact to velobuild?
Thnaks.
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you need to have several mm of space, before you compress the top car, between the steerer and the top of the stem / top cap. it's that space that gets compressed to tighten the column.
if you tighten the top cap endlessly, unscrew and check: the plug probably moved up inside the steerer, instead of compressing the whole system.
If that's the case, then torque the plug more (i routinely do 8-10nm), consider carbon paste (i dont think it helps, but maybe). Do NOT compress to these levels if the steerer is NOT in situ surrounded by the stem, as the steerer deforms and i have no idea how much torque it would take to crack it. But if the stem & bearings are resisting the expansion, you can do 8-10 w/o problems.
If your problem is different, then there's probably something wonky with your setup somewhere else, like spacers contacting the frame when they shouldnt or something like that.
I ought to try picking up a girl at my next date talking about compressing steering columns. Along with different hardness of aluminum, I feel this should be very interesting to ladies.
Thanks Serge.
After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(
(https://i.ibb.co/qpJsGRV/signal-2024-11-01-162007.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FzHwvBC)
I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.
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They had discounts last year.
Thanks.
Both for 11.11 and black friday?
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Thanks Serge.
After checking again I saw a hairline crack on the stem. But not where you would expect it :-(
(https://i.ibb.co/qpJsGRV/signal-2024-11-01-162007.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FzHwvBC)
I have contacted chris now... because not sure how this could happen? Always used the t-wrench on the stem. And never applied more than 5nm.
Oh snap!
Yes, that joke is worth at least 5 dollars.
At least now you know why you couldnt compress the system. Good luck!
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I love the VB-R-268 and I am riding it every day in all terrains. What a beauty!
Q1: Max Tire Size?
Q2: Inner width of the new wheel?
I know VB recommendations are for 25-32 mm tire sizes. Has any of you tried a 35 mm tire? I'm planning to get another set of wheel which I can get with 23 or 25 mm inner width.
I already have a set of wheels with 23 inner width and running 28 mm tires so my goal would be to have a second pair of wheel with wider tires to use on some rough gravel. I would appreciate if you help me in both questions. Even if VB will not accept a 35 mm tires should I get a wheel with 25mm inner width?
Thank you very much all!
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I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.
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I'm glad you like the 268, as I am now waiting for my frame to arrive, and wheels... well, and groupset (which i didn't yet choose). I took 26iw/33outer width rim from Peter, and planing to run 30 tires on it. I'm thinking 32's will get a bit too wide, and I'm not sure I wanna waste 60€ just to try it. But I'm certain 30's will fit fine.
Stick w 30, they will measure well over 30. If you're heavy you could do 32 at the rear, but for aero, definitely not at the front. Been there, done that :)
In fact if you're running tubeless, at the front ideally you'd run 28, as it would probably measure ~30.5
If you run tubes, 30.
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Thinking about changing the handlebar to something more narrow (360mm probably). Haven't really picked anything yet. But just for an example let's say I'd wanna use this KOCEVLO 360mm: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html
What else would I have to change? Do I need a new headset as well or are they compatible? Anything else I need to watch out for (besides the tedious process of rerouting everything and re-bleeding the brakes)?
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I was wondering about that as well. Haven't found exact answer. I wish someone here tried some other handlebar and has first hand experience on compatibility.
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Thank you that helps a lot. I will be running the newest 12 speed 105. Seems like the newer cables are thinner than some older ones so i guess i won't have to drill either. I ordered some grommets from Aliexpress but also saw that there are official Shimano ones (see attachments). Guess i will just try what fits best when i get the frame in hand. Small details like that can take their time. The bike will probably only see the indoor trainer until spring anyways.
I tried these one as well, was not a great fit
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- A lot of people said that they had to drill out the hole for the front derailleur cable because it isn't large enough to run the cable. Is this still a thing or have they updated the frame. If not what tools did you use for that task? I've never drilled into carbon before and don't wanna f it up.
The frame hole for the FD cable/wire is pretty big and oval shape.The metal grommet that screws into this hole is what is usually too small for Di2 cable connectors and I had to drill out personally. Alternatively, you could remove the metal grommet and replace it with a rubber one if you could find one that shape which is a bit big and long
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Thank you that makes a lot of sense. And drilling out a metal grommet sounds way less scary than drilling carbon.
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Guys did you got the picture of the frame after it was painted, and how long did it take for you to receive it?
I bought it 10days ago. Chris was rather quick to respond before purchase, not so much after the payment.
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I ordered on october 30th and was told painting will take around a week and shipping around two weeks. I asked about the status of my frame yesterday and got a reply this morning (due to timezone differences). Chris told me they will finish painting this week and send it out. He has been pretty responsive so far. I asked a few questions after the purchase and during the time our timezones aligned he answered within minutes. If they keep their promise to finish the frame this week i'm happy. Hopefully they will
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Mine took about 2 weeks before being shipped. Wasn't too concerned as my paint job was a bit more complex and needed several layers/drying in between. I did get pictures before it was shipped. I did ask for them beforehand though, so not sure if they send those unsolicited to everyone.
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Thanks! Chris just replied they'll finish paint job this week. Now waiting game. Imma go out on my Carbonda MTB till then :)
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I asked Chris if they can send me pictures after the paint is done and he confirmed me that they will do it
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This will be my first road bike build. Im pretty excited I admit. Yet I was avid mtb-only guy... Life is so ironic. Anyways, all parts are ordered, and none yet arrived :P
Will be going 105 di2 with Riro aliex carbon cranks
Peter's wheels 50mm deep and those wide ones, 26-33
contis gp5k tubeless 28-30
Was wondering on SPD-sl pedals. Probaly gonna go with shimano 7 or 8k series. Since I have really good experience with shimano mtb spd's. They spin and survived, really really hard time on my rocky trails.
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Few questions about the frameset, still deciding what frameset to go for in my build. I skipped through the whole thread, but obviously didn't read all and every post, so bear with me if this was discussed already.
Do we have any geometry info on the integrated handlebar that VB provides? CAD drawing or something? Ideally I want a compact bar with just a bit of flare, i.e. drops maybe 2 cm wider than hoods.
My understanding is that the geometry isn't as aggressive (only 536 mm stack in size 54) as it seems, as there is a special mandatory spacer that is around 15 mm in height that comes on top of the frame stack. Is that correct? OTOH, on some photos it still did look super aggressive, but maybe that was due to individual sizing decisions. I'm 176 cm and I need around 73 cm saddle height and considered size 54 so far. Goal is 8-9 cm saddle to bar drop.
Is there any verdict on saddles with 7x9 rails? Supposedly there were issues with the clamps, and VeloBuild knew about it. Have they fixed it?
What kinds of accessories do you typically want in addition to what VB ships? From what I've read it should be 1. grommets for cables, 2. Di2 battery holder and 3. maybe a better expander plug.
Edit: another thing... how stiff are the integrated bars? I think I read they are quite wiggly. Is that (still) true?
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Few questions about the frameset, still deciding what frameset to go for in my build. I skipped through the whole thread, but obviously didn't read all and every post, so bear with me if this was discussed already.
Do we have any geometry info on the integrated handlebar that VB provides? CAD drawing or something? Ideally I want a compact bar with just a bit of flare, i.e. drops maybe 2 cm wider than hoods.
My understanding is that the geometry isn't as aggressive (only 536 mm stack in size 54) as it seems, as there is a special mandatory spacer that is around 15 mm in height that comes on top of the frame stack. Is that correct? OTOH, on some photos it still did look super aggressive, but maybe that was due to individual sizing decisions. I'm 176 cm and I need around 73 cm saddle height and considered size 54 so far. Goal is 8-9 cm saddle to bar drop.
Is there any verdict on saddles with 7x9 rails? Supposedly there were issues with the clamps, and VeloBuild knew about it. Have they fixed it?
What kinds of accessories do you typically want in addition to what VB ships? From what I've read it should be 1. grommets for cables, 2. Di2 battery holder and 3. maybe a better expander plug.
Edit: another thing... how stiff are the integrated bars? I think I read they are quite wiggly. Is that (still) true?
Bar geometry is here: https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing
Seems there's just a tad bit of flare.
I bought additional seatpost (30$ or smtng); you just pay for the seatpost that's listed on their site, and tell Chris you want the seatpost for VB268 as a reserve. - if you want one, ofc.
I also bought another set of spacers (buy headset from their site and again, tell Chris that's for spacers). And there's a link for a seatpost di2 battery holder, on Ali for 20 some $.
And since you kinda helped me realise that 15mm spacer that's painted with the frame should also count as a stack height... I could go without another set of spacers I thought I could use. But, why did they list stack without the spacer in the first place? Do other brands do the same? Cause I compared geos with other brand bikes and VB seemed a bit too much agressive... Now, if others measure stack WITH that top HT cover, that would make a lot of sense, and would mean I won't need additional spacers under the stem. Happy days.
I took 56 on my 184 height. 42/110 bars, and I really hope I won't need to change the bars/need longer stem.
First shipment for the build just arrived. Some tools, bar tape, BB from ZTTO that threads into itself (hope that would be ok). Di2, frame and wheels yet to come. Im hoping I'll finish the build this month.
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Instead of that "expensive" Di2 battery holder, you can just DIY it like I (and a few others did): warp the battery in some bubble foil (the one it comes with will just do fine), tape it down with some electric tape so it becomes a nice "roll", and stuff it in the seatpost. Holds perfectly for me. No rattling, no slipping, no extra costs ;D
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I bought additional seatpost (30$ or smtng); you just pay for the seatpost that's listed on their site, and tell Chris you want the seatpost for VB268 as a reserve. - if you want one, ofc.
Stupid question, but why would you need a spare seatpost?
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It's not stupid question. It's just weird me :P
Couple of pages here before I asked where could I order another seatpost should I needed one (if i somehow brake original one). And basically I can't, since shapes are mostly different for all these aero seatposts. So I ordered 2, from the get go... that's it.
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Hello, can someone tell me the dimensions of the steering head bearings?
Thanks
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sorry i have Velobuild 168
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Everything arrived, groupset, tools, bb, Riro carbon crankset... except the frame and wheels. :(
Chris was responsive. Initially told me it'll take 2 weeks for the paint, still not done. Will send pictures 2morrow. As for the wheels, should be shipped by this friday, as Peter said. Hoping I'll get this done by the end of this month.
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Page broken?
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Another broken page ...
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If at first you don't succeed, try, try again ...
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... and again ...
Edit: yay, made it!
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Yesterday i asked chris if the painting of my frame was finished and didn't get an answer yet. But i just got the automated shipping confirmation mail from velobuild. Chris promised that they will send pictures after painting is done. Hasn't happened yet. As long as i receive my frame without any issues it's not a major problem for me but still worth sharing in my opinion.
Btw. is page 34 of this thread broken for anyone else? Can't access it for some reason but the other pages are working fine.
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Yes, Page 35 has been broken - probably by an image in an unsupported file format. I pushed the thread several times to create an new page so we can continue this thread.
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I ordered on 27.10. Yesterday Chris sent me a picture when I asked. Said it will be shipped tomorrow or saturday. Could've been a bit sooner (he said it would), but it's ok I guess. When I ordered from Carbonda my xc frame, they shipped it really fast (but it was without painting).
Wheels should be shipped today, Peter said. Got a picture. They sit at 1420grams (D50CU-33 T800, cx-ray, inhouse hubs, brass nipples). Would've been under 1400 if I went alu nipples, but I detest them.
Everything else arrived. I went with 105di2, but ordered lighter rotors, riro carbon cranks and ztto 32t cassette (around 230g). So i hope build would land below 8kgs. Will go with xtr pedals atm. And another thing, Chris appologized for delays and sent me par of bottle cages and spare rd hanger. I was just about to buy the cages on ali, good thing I didn't :)
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Hygge model S or vb 268. Which one of these frames have better quality? Im planning to use r7020 groupset (mech/hyd).
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I ordered on 27.10. Yesterday Chris sent me a picture when I asked. Said it will be shipped tomorrow or saturday. Could've been a bit sooner (he said it would), but it's ok I guess. When I ordered from Carbonda my xc frame, they shipped it really fast (but it was without painting).
Wheels should be shipped today, Peter said. Got a picture. They sit at 1420grams (D50CU-33 T800, cx-ray, inhouse hubs, brass nipples). Would've been under 1400 if I went alu nipples, but I detest them.
Everything else arrived. I went with 105di2, but ordered lighter rotors, riro carbon cranks and ztto 32t cassette (around 230g). So i hope build would land below 8kgs. Will go with xtr pedals atm. And another thing, Chris appologized for delays and sent me par of bottle cages and spare rd hanger. I was just about to buy the cages on ali, good thing I didn't :)
Considering the weight of the frame (950 size M) and your quite lightweight wheels, woulnd't sub 7,5kgs be likely? Or is the 105 that much heavier than Ultegra. With your rotors and cassette I can't imagine it making much difference?
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I ordered on 27.10. Yesterday Chris sent me a picture when I asked. Said it will be shipped tomorrow or saturday. Could've been a bit sooner (he said it would), but it's ok I guess. When I ordered from Carbonda my xc frame, they shipped it really fast (but it was without painting).
Wheels should be shipped today, Peter said. Got a picture. They sit at 1420grams (D50CU-33 T800, cx-ray, inhouse hubs, brass nipples). Would've been under 1400 if I went alu nipples, but I detest them.
How much did you pay for your wheels, if you don't mind me asking?
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Considering the weight of the frame (950 size M) and your quite lightweight wheels, woulnd't sub 7,5kgs be likely? Or is the 105 that much heavier than Ultegra. With your rotors and cassette I can't imagine it making much difference?
Well yes, I hope it will land around 7.6-7.8 with pedals. I will for now use MTB xtr ones that are around 80g heavier than SPD SL counterpart. With my lighter rotors and cassette, and cranks (580g) group set will be lighter than stock Ultegra. But now I just want to build it, and waiting is one thing I hate really bad. And alloy nipples
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Guys, can I change the integrated handlebars to some other brand if I find VB's not good fit? Can I buy whatever brand from aliex, or do I need to match the spacers beneath stem... I'm not kinda getting this. :)
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Well yes, I hope it will land around 7.6-7.8 with pedals. I will for now use MTB xtr ones that are around 80g heavier than SPD SL counterpart. With my lighter rotors and cassette, and cranks (580g) group set will be lighter than stock Ultegra. But now I just want to build it, and waiting is one thing I hate really bad. And alloy nipples
Why the hate of aluminum nips?
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Why the hate of aluminum nips?
Well, they're brittle, snapped on me couple of times... and don't really need any more reasons. So 20grams of nipples in exchange for a much more reliable future service of the wheel is a no brainer imo.
But I would again ask the question in a post above: Can I put these handlebars on VB268 without any problems?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007905792275.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.beab38daJ8Vjfx&mp=1
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I'm wondering the same. Would be really cool if somebody could share their experience with mounting another handlebar on the frame
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I'm wondering the same. Would be really cool if somebody could share their experience with mounting another handlebar on the frame
It's possible to use other bars with most of VB's frames either integrated or separate bar/stem combos with either hidden or exposed cables. In the case of the 268 I think you just loose out on the top tube cover which is shaped to match the frame and would just need to find something appropriate that can fit. Seems like theres lots of headset covers/spacers available on aliX that would do the job.
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Why the hate of aluminum nips?
Corrosion. Brass nipples weigh a tad more but don't corrode. Most would be best served using brass nipples, for optionality. In lots of "if" scenarios, brass wins. The only benefit of alu nipples is weight.
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It's possible to use other bars with most of VB's frames either integrated or separate bar/stem combos with either hidden or exposed cables. In the case of the 268 I think you just loose out on the top tube cover which is shaped to match the frame and would just need to find something appropriate that can fit. Seems like theres lots of headset covers/spacers available on aliX that would do the job.
Thanks for answering. However, I wonder why do I need to loose the VBs cover and spacers, is the shape of the handlebar stem the reason? Would it be possible to just swap the bars?
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Does anybody know the frame height on rear caliper mount? Need to order shimano bolt C.
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Thanks for answering. However, I wonder why do I need to loose the VBs cover and spacers, is the shape of the handlebar stem the reason? Would it be possible to just swap the bars?
Yah I think it's because the VB spacers/cover are meant to match the shape of the bars. There is a chance you may be able to make it work by filling away the pins in the spacers that are meant to line up with the small holes in the bars but not sure if the spacers would then stay in place with the stem/bars after.
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Does anybody know the frame height on rear caliper mount? Need to order shimano bolt C.
Just meassuredmine at ~3cm
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Just meassuredmine at ~3cm
Thanks, so need to buy 43mm bolt ;D
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My frame arrived yesterday. Here's a pic of the build in progress. The paint job is pretty good with some minor imperfections but for 50€ can't really complain. The white headtube cover doesn't sit perfectly there's a little gap on the right side and none on the left gotta check that out. But i will redo the cockpit installation anyway when i figured out my fit. The huge spacer tower is just there to give me room to figure out my fit. I will definitely remove some spacers and recut the fork.
There is some paint in the bottom bracket area and some paint on the brake caliper mounting area. Hopefully the brakes won't be too hard to align. I will also postpone brake installation until i have the perfect cockpit height figured out, so i don't cut the hoses to the wrong length. Won't need brakes on the trainer anyway. Currently i'm waiting for a second bottom bracket tool. I got one of those screw together bottom brackets and i can't install it with only grabbing it on one side (who would have thought...).
The build will be:
Velobuild VB-R-268 frame
Elitewheels ENT 2.0 38mm
105 Di2
Magene PES P505
Can't wait to install the bottom bracket and cranks to take it for a first spin on the trainer.
Oh and for those who are interested in ordering and wondering how long it would take:
Ordered on october 30th
Shipped on november 14th
Delivered on november 26th (to germany using the xdb tax free shipping option)
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...
Ordered on october 30th
Shipped on november 14th
Delivered on november 26th (to germany using the xdb tax free shipping option)
My God why did I order icebreak color option... I believe it was the cause for the delay of mine order. Ordered on Oct 26th, shipped only last week, and today should be on it's way to Croatia.
Regarding your bb tool issue, yea I was thinking about it so I ordered another tool from ali on time :) ... But I think I will drop inside the shimano pressfit BB that came with the groupset. I kinda don't like having aluminium on carbon in pressfit option. Still not sure.
Anyways, build is looking really good. Keep us updated!
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I didn't want to buy a pressfit tool and thought this might be a good alternative. As far as i see it there's no aluminium touching the carbon with this setup.
I will post the full build once it's all setup. This is my first bike build ever but so far it's going quite smooth.
Btw. does anybody have a good alternative to the seatpost rubber cover that came with the frame. I really don't like how it overlaps the back of the frame.
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My God why did I order icebreak color option...
may be worth it in the end, the ice break effect looks really good in person!
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I didn't want to buy a pressfit tool and thought this might be a good alternative. As far as i see it there's no aluminium touching the carbon with this setup.
I will post the full build once it's all setup. This is my first bike build ever but so far it's going quite smooth.
Btw. does anybody have a good alternative to the seatpost rubber cover that came with the frame. I really don't like how it overlaps the back of the frame.
Yea someone in here posted a pic with, I believe, SL7 cover from ali. But having seen the VB's cover, I wonder how come noone tried to cut that rear part?
With regards to aluminum - carbon. I thought your bb is the aluminum one, or am I wrong?
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Yea someone in here posted a pic with, I believe, SL7 cover from ali. But having seen the VB's cover, I wonder how come noone tried to cut that rear part?
With regards to aluminum - carbon. I thought your bb is the aluminum one, or am I wrong?
Cutting it would be my first step but since these things are probably pretty cheap i will just go for an alternative if i fuck it up.
I have the bottom bracket from the attached pic and there are two rubber o-rings on the area that touches the frame to protect it.
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Oh we have the same bb. I also ordered ztto like that. But since my last ztto bb (bsa) on my mtb didn't last that long really, I'm inclined to using good ol' shimano plastic one. I really am not sure yet. Will decide on the spot I think.
Tell me, how do you find the bb shell quality, tolerances etc...? I haven't worked with pressfit shells, only bsa. Seems pf bb's have higher tendency for creak development. Also, did you use any grease?
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Oh we have the same bb. I also ordered ztto like that. But since my last ztto bb (bsa) on my mtb didn't last that long really, I'm inclined to using good ol' shimano plastic one. I really am not sure yet. Will decide on the spot I think.
Tell me, how do you find the bb shell quality, tolerances etc...? I haven't worked with pressfit shells, only bsa. Seems pf bb's have higher tendency for creak development. Also, did you use any grease?
Since this is my first bike build i can't really tell you much about the bottom bracket as i lack experience to compare it. I did some research about grease and there seem to be multiple opinions. Some people (for example hambini) recommend using some loctite (not the one used for screws) others use normal grease. I'll be using this silicone stuff recommended by some people on bikewrench reddit. Will see how the bb will hold up and if it will develop any creaks.
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Cutting it would be my first step but since these things are probably pretty cheap i will just go for an alternative if i fuck it up.
I have the bottom bracket from the attached pic and there are two rubber o-rings on the area that touches the frame to protect it.
I've been using the same BB from ZTTO as well and really like the screw in aspect. They are fairly delicate, in that if you don't use the correct tool and instead use a clamp wrench for example like I did once because I didn't have two BB wrenches, one for each side, you can crush it pretty easily and the bearings won't turn anymore.
Been using regular grease myself when installing and seems fine.
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I've been using the same BB from ZTTO as well and really like the screw in aspect. They are fairly delicate, in that if you don't use the correct tool and instead use a clamp wrench for example like I did once because I didn't have two BB wrenches, one for each side, you can crush it pretty easily and the bearings won't turn anymore.
Been using regular grease myself when installing and seems fine.
Thanks for the input! I will take it into consideration when I go for the bb install. How do you find the bearing durabillity? Or simply, how long is your installed, and how many km's is on it?
I'm kind of sucker for shimano I admit, but it's because, really, all of their stuff I found durable AF. I mean, their cheapest bb i have now on my indoor trainer bike, is like, 4 years old, and still spins without noise and any noticable friction. My first spd pedals are, well, unbreakable. So many rock hits and crashes.. That damn thing doesn't give 2 f?cks about it. So that's the only reason I'm inclined on pressing the plastic Shimano bb into this build.
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I would highly recommend to get some sort of "cup style" (first attachment) bottom bracket tool to install the screw in bottom bracket. I got myself two of these cheap ones (second attachment) and it's really hard to get a good grip on the thin area of the bottom bracket. I think these tools are better suited for bsa bottom brackets with a much larger area to grip.
@volan: If you already have the tool and the bottom bracket i think there's nothing wrong with the shimano bb. The sole reason for me to go with the screw together was the lack of a pressfit tool.
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I would highly recommend to get some sort of "cup style" (first attachment) bottom bracket tool to install the screw in bottom bracket. I got myself two of these cheap ones (second attachment) and it's really hard to get a good grip on the thin area of the bottom bracket. I think these tools are better suited for bsa bottom brackets with a much larger area to grip.
@volan: If you already have the tool and the bottom bracket i think there's nothing wrong with the shimano bb. The sole reason for me to go with the screw together was the lack of a pressfit tool.
I have two simple tools like the second photo you showed. And I gues it will be more simple to use pressfit tool with shimano. I got one pretty cheap on aliex, and it looks just fine.
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I would go for the pressfit in that case
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New Trace Velo bike build video says he's been using his ZTTO for 2 years without issue https://youtu.be/6I3iTMjmQKI?t=629
I personally like the screw in/out aspect about it the most. Agree that a cup style tool would be favourable but the cheaper thiner tool works as well
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Here's another build update from me. First about the bottom bracket: I wrote earlier that i would recommend a cup style tool as i couldn't get it in with these cheap tools. Seems like it was my fault. I unscrewed the bb again and redid it and it worked flawless. Seems like i cross threaded the bb in the first try and therefore couldn't get it to work. On my second try it worked even with the cheap tools. Everything else went really flawless so far. Given that this is my first build i expected tons of problems i would have to figure out but so far there are none. I installed the di2 and the cranks. I also cut down the steerer tube a little further and removed some spacers. I already did a test ride on the trainer and everything worked like it should. Adjusting the shifting was very easy. The only steps missing now are cutting the brake hoses to length and installing them and aligning the brake calipers. Then i just gotta finish it off by applying bartape and i'm done. Wouldn't have expected that to be honest. Just gotta get some road bike shoes so my gravel bike can have its pedals back.
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One day and a horrible bartape job later it's finally done. Took it for a very short first test ride. Aligning the brake calipers wasn't a problem actually. No weird sounds or creaks during riding so far. Hopefully the headset will hold up and there won't be any play on that part. I had some headset play before the ride. Retightened everything and now after the ride there's no play. Hope it will stay that way. Very happy about this whole journey so far.
If anybody has a nice idea for some decals/stickers i would love to hear about them. I would like to stick to the black and white scheme but would like to spice it up a little.
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One day and a horrible bartape job later it's finally done. Took it for a very short first test ride. Aligning the brake calipers wasn't a problem actually. No weird sounds or creaks during riding so far. Hopefully the headset will hold up and there won't be any play on that part. I had some headset play before the ride. Retightened everything and now after the ride there's no play. Hope it will stay that way. Very happy about this whole journey so far.
If anybody has a nice idea for some decals/stickers i would love to hear about them. I would like to stick to the black and white scheme but would like to spice it up a little.
How's the front ring shift quality for you with those Magene chainrings? Mine is suboptimal at times, but once I went back to Shimano chainrings the shift quality has been superb. My guess is the "ramps" on the back side of the chainrings aren't as pronounced as Shimano.
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How's the front ring shift quality for you with those Magene chainrings? Mine is suboptimal at times, but once I went back to Shimano chainrings the shift quality has been superb. My guess is the "ramps" on the back side of the chainrings aren't as pronounced as Shimano.
Had no issues so far but it was only a 20 minute test ride with almost no elevation. But whenever i shifted in the front it did without any issues on the trainer and outdoors. Hopefully i'll be able to do a longer ride in the following days. I live in a hilly area so there will be lot of shifts on the front. Will let you know how that will go.
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Patty, I think for most users Shimano chainrings are anyway laying around and if not they’re quite cheap to get. I run them with the Magene crank and there’s literally 0 difference vs the full shimano crank combo in terms of shift quality. In other words, I don’t see the argument for non Shimano chainrings… Just two cents….
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New Trace Velo bike build video says he's been using his ZTTO for 2 years without issue https://youtu.be/6I3iTMjmQKI?t=629
I personally like the screw in/out aspect about it the most. Agree that a cup style tool would be favourable but the cheaper thiner tool works as well
I mounted the ZTTO screwed in my gravel bike and in my VBR099 (replacing a shimano DA...) and it works flawlessly. It's a bit tricky to disassembly because once you unscrew one side, the other stay in place but you can gently hammer with a rubber mallet and it comes out.
I would reccomend the steel ball bearing instead of ceramic due to durability
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Frame arrived. Managed to assemble everything and do a quick test ride. Everything seems ok with the frame, paint is really nicely done, although I'm on the edge about durabillity/quality. While I was pounding the pf shimano bb out of the bottom bracket shell (ill explain why), rear calliper was loose by the chainstays, and it rubbed againt the frame while I was pounding the bb, only to realize it scratched the paint there... So yea.
I meassured the diameter of the bb shell and it was around 40.6mm. I was keen on pressing in the shimano plastic bb, but after I pressed it in and inserted the spindle, shell pressed the bearings so tight so that spindle wasn't exactly spining like it should. I got used to BSA bb's, and spining cranks on it was always really smooth. Here, they simply wouldn't spin at all, so I immediately took them out and put in the threaded/PF bb from ztto. It sits flush and seems ok, will order another one as a replacement. I think VB could do with 0,2mm wider bb shell.
Build:
L size icebreak red paint
420/110 vb handlebars
105 di2 shifters/brakes/rd and fd
riro carbon cranks
"Peter's wheels" 26 iw, 50 deep
contis gp5k s tr
Build ended on 7.7-8 kg with pedals and bottle cages. Happy with the result. Although I, of course, made a mistake when cutting the forst steerer. I used to cutting mtb alu steerers and when I assembled the fork, caps, spacers and stem --- I didn't put in the fREAKING expander plug when I marked the cut... So the steerer sits pretty much flush with the stem, therefore - 0.5cm f??king spacer now sits on top, instead of the VB top cap. I don't want to dissasemble everything now because of it. I did order another set of spacers which didn't arrive (don't know why, asked Chris), so I will put one under the stem when it arrives and fix that problem.
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Nice build. I ordered the same paint but in your pics looks like orange ice brake paint. I suppose that it's your phone camera effect.
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Yeah, it's pretty much red, cherry red tint kinda. Camera distorted the paint.
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Looking very nice. Can't you just remove the handlebars and cut the steerer a little shorter? That's how i did it after i decided how many spacers i want to run. I just removed the handlebars, put on the cutting guide and sawed off the top piece. Worked like a charm without disassembling everything again.
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Beautiful bike.
And nice to see, that other people make the same mistake when cutting the fork as I did ...
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Just did a first proper ride. I'm really satisfied with how the bike feels. Although it's my first road bike, it's more then I expected tbh. Feels really fast, plenty stiff and it's more comfortable then I expected, expecially after years of full sus mtb's and fat tyres. Small road chatter is really nicely absorbed.
Had to do some additional fiddling with RD and it's cause of ztto cassette. I had some experience with ztto cassettes on mtb and they need some additional attention in order to get it to shift properly.
Only thing I noticed that I didn't think about before is the braking power while descending at high speeds. It's nowhere close as it is on fat mtb tyres and 4pot brakes. Have to get used to it and modulate before turns.
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Looking really good. Breaking power usually gets a little better after the first few rides. New brake pads need a little breaking in to unfold their full performance.
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Just did a first proper ride. I'm really satisfied with how the bike feels. Although it's my first road bike, it's more then I expected tbh. Feels really fast, plenty stiff and it's more comfortable then I expected, expecially after years of full sus mtb's and fat tyres. Small road chatter is really nicely absorbed.
Had to do some additional fiddling with RD and it's cause of ztto cassette. I had some experience with ztto cassettes on mtb and they need some additional attention in order to get it to shift properly.
Only thing I noticed that I didn't think about before is the braking power while descending at high speeds. It's nowhere close as it is on fat mtb tyres and 4pot brakes. Have to get used to it and modulate before turns.
Looks very civilised, well done!
Your rotors went on a diet. If you barely have any material left, i doubt they will perform too well. I'd consider cheap ass bulkier rotors. More mass more good for alpine descents. Steel is real.
Also, brakes do need bedding in, and not all pads are made equal.
Happy riding!
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Sample size of one, but this Magura rotor was much straighter out of the box with a tighter and deeper spline interface than my Shimano Icetech rotor as well as being surprisingly inexpensive.
Also seemed to take longer to get hot and squeal, perhaps due to more thermal mass.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/magura-usa-mdr-c-cl-disc-brake-rotor#product-info (https://www.competitivecyclist.com/magura-usa-mdr-c-cl-disc-brake-rotor#product-info)
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Quick review after one year and over 5000km and near 60000m:
The frame seams stiff but the seatpost is very harsh. The straight construction of the seatpost leaves no room for flex for a little ride comfort. I had to buy another saddle which is more comfortable and lower the psi to 75 of my 28mm tyres (I used to run them conservatively hard at 100psi).
Altough there seams to be little to no flex in the frame the fork is a different story. I have constant brake disc rubbing while riding out of the saddle. There is just to much flex in the fork to avoid the disc rubbing against the brake pads. I have to admit though that I use cable accentuated hydraulic disc brakes that I have to run very tight to be able to apply enought force at my leavers. Maybe this would be different with full hydraulic brakes that maybe, would retreat farther.
I assembled the bike myself, but it wasn't straight forward. Especially as I am running a totaly mechanical setup with 4 cables running through the integrated cockpit. The canal underneath the "stem" where the cables are supposed to run has the effect, that the bend into the frame is much to tight. It would have been better if vb had made simply a hole and a lead out and they would run in the inside. Then we had more room for the cables.
After half a winter the headset bearings are done already. The quality could be better. I will have to replace them soon.
Other than that I am very pleased. I like the geometry and the look that resembles a sl7. I love this bike and my avg. speed has gon up 1km/h this year with exactly the same training intensity and total km and elevation compared with my previous road bike that wasn't aero.
I got the complete bike under 8kg with everything mounted (pedals, bottlecages, computer mounts) and there is some potential to lower the wheight eaven more. Here some facts about my components:
Elite Edge Wheels 50mm, Sensah carbon empire leavers, empire rear and front deraileur, a cheap crankset, scenix double chainring, zrace hybrid disc brakes, carbon saddle, old and heavy ultegra pedals, GP 5000 tires with tpu tubes: 7,9kg
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I also had brake rub when out of the saddle on my first ride. However, I noticed the disc was slightly off center between brake pads, so I adjusted it and voilla, no rub when sprinting. 105 hydraulics
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Looking very nice. Can't you just remove the handlebars and cut the steerer a little shorter? That's how i did it after i decided how many spacers i want to run. I just removed the handlebars, put on the cutting guide and sawed off the top piece. Worked like a charm without disassembling everything again.
Considered it, but I want to try with 0.5mm spacer under to see it the fit is better, then after that I will decide weather to go with the spacer or to cut it couple of mm's.
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I also had brake rub when out of the saddle on my first ride. However, I noticed the disc was slightly off center between brake pads, so I adjusted it and voilla, no rub when sprinting. 105 hydraulics
what about the cheap rotors?
Are they any good?
I remember i used the same rotors with 29er MTB and the braking was noticeably flimsy compared to stock (shimano?) rotors.
I' currently running cheap Aliexpress 88grams rotor (round shape) and I feel the braking power is definitely lower than RT-900 icetech Shimano rotors.
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Well, haven't had a chance to ride again due to bad weather, but one thing I've noticed is that I didn't put the rotors properly in the first place (wrong roatation), so that "not-so-good" experience I had the first 3 rides are probably due to that. Although I doubt they will have the same braking power as meatier shimano rotors.
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Nice thanks for your feedback.
I lightly sandpaper the braking surface to remove the fingerprint and production oil and then clean with brake cleaner in order to do not contaminate the pads.
They brake decently but they're very loud due to vibration.
Shimano's are supersilent
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Can anybody tell me which screws i exactly need for the handlebars? One of the handlebar screws is already starting to get round even tough i torqued them to exactly 5 nm. I think they are pretty cheaply made and want to replace them right away before i struggle to remove the handlebars.
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Had same thing on my mtb handlebars but I had spares from another bar. I guess I'd go with these ones, but make sure you measure them. should be compatible. I could order a set as a spare.
edit: wont let me use the link for some reason. Just search "carbon handlebar screws" on aliex.
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Just received a photo from VB. Shipment tomorrow 8)
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Can anybody tell me which screws i exactly need for the handlebars? One of the handlebar screws is already starting to get round even tough i torqued them to exactly 5 nm. I think they are pretty cheaply made and want to replace them right away before i struggle to remove the handlebars.
Me too.
I choose the titanium ones on aliex (be carefull, you'll find 2 measures of lenght)
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Me too.
I choose the titanium ones on aliex (be carefull, you'll find 2 measures of lenght)
I ordered these a few days ago should arrive soon. I just ordered both lengths as i wasn't sure about the length. Just gonna send the ones that don't fit back (or throw them into my spare parts bin if i'm too lazy which is probably going to happen).
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I really struggle to cut the bolt to the right side with angle grinder and inox specific disk.
Looks like a real alloy of titanium or something else (kryptonite??)
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Can anybody tell me which screws i exactly need for the handlebars? One of the handlebar screws is already starting to get round even tough i torqued them to exactly 5 nm. I think they are pretty cheaply made and want to replace them right away before i struggle to remove the handlebars.
I had the issue. I would recommend to tighten the bolts by tightening on the small head bolt. The side with the big head has a too small surface of contact to tighten correctly at the given torque without damaging it.
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Is the seatpost between the 268 and Sl7 interchangeable?
Is it easy enough to get a replacement seatpost for the 268?
Wondering wether to order an extra one now with my order.
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Is the seatpost between the 268 and Sl7 interchangeable?
Is it easy enough to get a replacement seatpost for the 268?
Wondering wether to order an extra one now with my order.
Someone wrote here that he contacted with Chris and ordered the seatpost on their site for 25$.
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Yes, 25$ for a spare seatpost. Just tell Chris it's for 268, and buy the seatpost from the website accessories page. I'm loving my 268 so far. Only gripe I have with it is the paint quality. It's really frail. Some frame protection on the chainstays and around bb should be done while building it. Other than that, I'm enjoying the ride. It's dead silent with no creaks to be heard.
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Yes, 25$ for a spare seatpost. Just tell Chris it's for 268, and buy the seatpost from the website accessories page. I'm loving my 268 so far. Only gripe I have with it is the paint quality. It's really frail. Some frame protection on the chainstays and around bb should be done while building it. Other than that, I'm enjoying the ride. It's dead silent with no creaks to be heard.
Would you not put some translucent frame protector decals?
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I've put some protection after the fact... I mean, the damage to the pain ;D
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I've put some protection after the fact... I mean, the damage to the pain ;D
I always put frame protector decals in my frames as there are loads of loose chips in the roads I normally ride.....so it isn't the paint quality sometimes. No paint will cope with loose chips hit to it at 45kph+ haha
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Any recommendations for frame protection decals? I would like to add some protection to the paint and spice up the looks of my purely white frame.
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Hello, i am an inexperienced builder, so i tend to panic regarding every single detail. Most of the problems i was able to workout fairly easy, but I was not able to find a fix for this one (i don't even know if this is a problem). Should there be the gap between top spacer and integrated handlebar stem? The "teeth" engaged with a hole, nothing moves or wobbles, fork is not moving, but im writing here just to make sure. Im attaching photos from both sides.
PS: I will clean the bike before going out on maiden voyage, my tomfoolery get my whole flat covered in bike grease :(.
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That looks perfect to me. Yes there's usually a small gap so you can preload the bearings with the headset expander.
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I finished my build end of October and have been able to ride the bike for two months.
I am now able to provide a feedback on the bike.
Build:
Frame with integrated handlebar/stem
Mechanical 105 12 speed (550 euros including disk rotors and bottom brackets)
Elite wheels Edge 50 mm (600 euros)
Tyres and tools including stand: 500 euros
Weight of the bike: 8.05 kg including bottle cages and pedals (250g)
I'm quite happy to have a bike under the 8kg bar, probably thanks to the carbon wheels.
It was easy to built, cable routing through the handlebar was also easy with the proper tool. The only hard part was routing the front derailleur cable through he frame cable stop.
I used to ride a 15-20 years old Gitane weighting 11kg or so so to me the Velobuild is great. I am not able to make a comparison with any modern and high end bike. The only thing I can say is that it's comfortable to ride and that it's silent, no creaking sound.
Cons:
The finish is not perfect, there are some imperfections in the paint especially around the wheels axe holes where paint is missing and there is a dent on the edge of the carbon headtube cover but it's not missing paint. I guess it's to be expected for such a low price. Overall, these aesthetic defects are barely visible.
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Hello, i am an inexperienced builder, so i tend to panic regarding every single detail. Most of the problems i was able to workout fairly easy, but I was not able to find a fix for this one (i don't even know if this is a problem). Should there be the gap between top spacer and integrated handlebar stem? The "teeth" engaged with a hole, nothing moves or wobbles, fork is not moving, but im writing here just to make sure. Im attaching photos from both sides.
PS: I will clean the bike before going out on maiden voyage, my tomfoolery get my whole flat covered in bike grease :(.
I faced the same issue with the handlebar, so I decided to file just a little the spacers in order to have a perfect contact with the handlebar base
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I've signed up for a (fast) gravel race with the 268, anyone who have experience with maxing out the tyre width? I'm right now running 28 mm Conti GP 5000's on the road, but they measure aaalmost 30 mm on the EliteWheels Gravel Wheels (24 mm internal) that is fitted. The frame is stated as max 32 mm, but usually the stated max is a bit conservative.
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Yes, that's correct.
I assume the 268's can reach even 36mm cause i'm running 28 with 23,5inner channel and the effective is 31, and I have a lot of room
When I bought the bike I was afraid to be scammed with a gravel frameset...
Tomorrow I'm giving you the real measure
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Yes, that's correct.
I assume the 268's can reach even 36mm cause i'm running 28 with 23,5inner channel and the effective is 31, and I have a lot of room
When I bought the bike I was afraid to be scammed with a gravel frameset...
Tomorrow I'm giving you the real measure
That's great to hear, and thank you! Cheers
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Frame arrived. The color looks awesome. TBH its ice break cherry red color. At the first check there arent any imperfections on painting. Maybe one cons.In two places (on upper site of downtube near sterer tube and middle of top tube) ice break effect is visibly weaker.
Ordered 23-11
Shipped 18-12
Arrived 7-01 (delayed Due to National Holiday)
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That's great to hear, and thank you! Cheers
Plenty of room.
Taking measurement from the 30,8 width of my tyre, i measure at least 8mm per side so 30,8mm+8mm+8mm.
I think you can install up to 38mm, both front and rear.
I've a pair of gravel 47 tyre, let me try tonight to push the envelope
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Plenty of room.
Taking measurement from the 30,8 width of my tyre, i measure at least 0,8mm per side so 30,8mm+8mm+8mm.
I think you can install up to 38mm, both front and rear.
I've a pair of gravel 47 tyre, let me try tonight to push the envelope
Thanks, this is a big help!
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Hi everyone,
I have been lurking this website for couple months now. I was wondering if 12 Speed Wired Shimano 105 would be a bad choice for this frameset with integrated bars. Would that be too much kinks and cabling for good shifting performance?
I am thinking about getting a used groupset but having major doubts. I am good at building bikes, wheels but want to be certain before pulling the trigger.
Appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
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Hi everyone,
I have been lurking this website for couple months now. I was wondering if 12 Speed Wired Shimano 105 would be a bad choice for this frameset with integrated bars. Would that be too much kinks and cabling for good shifting performance?
I am thinking about getting a used groupset but having major doubts. I am good at building bikes, wheels but want to be certain before pulling the trigger.
Appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
go for it. it's sub optimal, but it does work. Try to run housing from shifter to derailleur, it will help. I put an old shimano 105 FD on a VB fully integrated bike w a sensah shifter and the shifting is great. Sensah FD is an absolute bag of $hit, though.
If the seat stays call for exposed cable between stops, consider drilling through so you can run housing instead. And for your FD, try to get the versions that take housing all the way to the FD, instead of the usual frame cable stop. It's also a major pain to deal with cable stops for FDs, so you'd save yourself headache as well.
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Hi everyone,
I have been lurking this website for couple months now. I was wondering if 12 Speed Wired Shimano 105 would be a bad choice for this frameset with integrated bars. Would that be too much kinks and cabling for good shifting performance?
I am thinking about getting a used groupset but having major doubts. I am good at building bikes, wheels but want to be certain before pulling the trigger.
Appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
I used a frame with fully integrated routing and a mechanical groupset and the shifting was good, no issues after 5-6k. But routing process itself was a pain. The mechanical disc brakes weren't so good, but still better than rim brakes with carbon rims.
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Same as me. In the weekend i will plan to assembly frame with r7020 groupset ;)
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Same here. I am planning on fitting a mechanical ultegra with hydraulic shifters. I am yet to receive my frame yet though.
1,070g with rear axle, hangers, bolts, etc, so under 1kg in chameleon green size S.
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go for it. it's sub optimal, but it does work. Try to run housing from shifter to derailleur, it will help. I put an old shimano 105 FD on a VB fully integrated bike w a sensah shifter and the shifting is great. Sensah FD is an absolute bag of $hit, though.
If the seat stays call for exposed cable between stops, consider drilling through so you can run housing instead. And for your FD, try to get the versions that take housing all the way to the FD, instead of the usual frame cable stop. It's also a major pain to deal with cable stops for FDs, so you'd save yourself headache as well.
I highly suggest to include also an inline cable tensioner in order to make the tuning easier.
Try to use a full-sleeve liner from shifter to mech
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To all of you which will use mechanical groupset. FD grommet have very soft screw so keep in mind that little more torque will destroy the screw socket totally (like i did :'()
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To all of you which will use mechanical groupset. FD grommet have very soft screw so keep in mind that little more torque will destroy the screw socket totally (like i did :'()
Would you mind posting some photos showing this? Thanks
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Would you mind posting some photos showing this? Thanks
It's hard to post as I already use housing. Grommet is made from aluminium which is blocked by little metal inside the frame with this little screw H2. The grommet hole is too little to pass the housing so I detached from frame and drilled. After that i realize that I used a little to much torque :) So keep in mind that this screw is really really soft :)
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Anyone has a problem with saddle tilt? Sometimes after coming back from out of the saddle, saddle can tilt a bit If I don't land perfectly in the middle.
Is this normal? Any fix?
I'm using carbon rails with 9x9, but it sits really nice, 12nm
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Anyone has a problem with saddle tilt? Sometimes after coming back from out of the saddle, saddle can tilt a bit If I don't land perfectly in the middle.
Is this normal? Any fix?
I'm using carbon rails with 9x9, but it sits really nice, 12nm
Yup me as well. It's why I despise single clamping designs especially if your saddle rails aren't squarely clamped in the middle to evenly distribute weight.
Since I really need a 20mm offset seatpost I had push my saddle all the back to the very limits. This is a recipe for saddle tilt slippage upwards.
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Anyone has a problem with saddle tilt? Sometimes after coming back from out of the saddle, saddle can tilt a bit If I don't land perfectly in the middle.
Is this normal? Any fix?
I'm using carbon rails with 9x9, but it sits really nice, 12nm
This is probably my main point of criticism with this frame (worse than the Mavic speed release). Single bolt saddle clamps are the absolute worst. I've added carbon paste for increased friction and tightened the bolt as much as I dare, and the problem is for now solved - until I hit a small pothole or something.
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Only chain, brake bleeding and adjust front and rear derailleur and bar tape left. Including all of this weight should be 8.2kg with basic shimano pedals (approx 350g)
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Since I really need a 20mm offset seatpost I had push my saddle all the back to the very limits. This is a recipe for saddle tilt slippage upwards.
But then while on a slow group ride bored out of your mind, you can rub yourself on that.
:D
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Any fix?
I applied Loctite 648 (retaining compound for cylindrical parts) to mine, but mainly tightened the bolt as much as I dared.
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Hello everyone, it's the first time I've written on this forum but I've been reading you for a long time.
A few months ago I bought my VB 268 and so far I have been very happy, but after hearing some strange noises coming from the bottom bracket I have found this in it.
I have tried to contact customer service to find out if it is safe to ride it, but they are on their holiday and there is no response.
Here are some pictures to see the possible carbon breakdown.
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Hello everyone, it's the first time I've written on this forum but I've been reading you for a long time.
A few months ago I bought my VB 268 and so far I have been very happy, but after hearing some strange noises coming from the bottom bracket I have found this in it.
I have tried to contact customer service to find out if it is safe to ride it, but they are on their holiday and there is no response.
Here are some pictures to see the possible carbon breakdown.
I'm afraid you might be right, it shouldn't crack like that. Is it a metal BB? It looks like it
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Hello everyone, it's the first time I've written on this forum but I've been reading you for a long time.
A few months ago I bought my VB 268 and so far I have been very happy, but after hearing some strange noises coming from the bottom bracket I have found this in it.
I have tried to contact customer service to find out if it is safe to ride it, but they are on their holiday and there is no response.
Here are some pictures to see the possible carbon breakdown.
You can also try to write to them Via instsgram
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What BB did you fit there and what torque Nm did you use?
The 286 comes with a BB86 and that metal ring you have there is something I don't kind of identify as a part of a BB86 pressfit BB. What's it it?
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I think that Silver ring is spacer. Probably used MTB BB or some threded Press fit like ZTTO
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What BB did you fit there and what torque Nm did you use?
The 286 comes with a BB86 and that metal ring you have there is something I don't kind of identify as a part of a BB86 pressfit BB. What's it?
This is the sram dub BB86 PressFit axis for Crankset Force. The tightening pair I can not say, since the assembly was done in my local trek distributor, but I have to assume that it was with the best tools.
They are currently on vacation in China and I can't give more information about the case, I am waiting for a response.
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Hello everyone, it's the first time I've written on this forum but I've been reading you for a long time.
A few months ago I bought my VB 268 and so far I have been very happy, but after hearing some strange noises coming from the bottom bracket I have found this in it.
I have tried to contact customer service to find out if it is safe to ride it, but they are on their holiday and there is no response.
Here are some pictures to see the possible carbon breakdown.
hard to say intelligent things without seeing the bike, but there's a good chance it's just the paint cracking, which is pretty common in high stress areas like that. There's a good chance the noises come elsewhere on the bike (see the video from phil gaimon on youtube on why the noises on your bike usually dont come from the bottom bracket (search what i just wrote you'll find the video). If the noise does indeed come from the BB, your bearings may have just died, or something got loose. Point is, there can be a dozen sources for a noise before "the frame disintegrated at the BB area", so i wouldn't worry just yet. And yes, it's chinese new year over there, so expect radio silence from them, but they're not ghosting you, they're just OOO.
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This is the sram dub BB86 PressFit axis for Crankset Force. The tightening pair I can not say, since the assembly was done in my local trek distributor, but I have to assume that it was with the best tools.
They are currently on vacation in China and I can't give more information about the case, I am waiting for a response.
Yeap I googled it and now can see that is a sram dub BB86 PressFit. Fair enough.
I am in with Serge_K just wrote. It is likely to be just pain cracking which may have been there from the start. Keep us posted once you find out till then I would just ride the bike myself personally.
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This is probably my main point of criticism with this frame (worse than the Mavic speed release). Single bolt saddle clamps are the absolute worst. I've added carbon paste for increased friction and tightened the bolt as much as I dare, and the problem is for now solved - until I hit a small pothole or something.
Ok thanks I'll try your strat, and report
about the mavic speed release, I bough one extra Real mavic speed release (with the torque lever thing) to get an extra one , and they are so much better than the normal one.
Its a bit sad that velobuild went for those speed release if they don't provide the "real" one, but I understand it's a money reason
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Ok thanks I'll try your strat, and report
about the mavic speed release, I bough one extra Real mavic speed release (with the torque lever thing) to get an extra one , and they are so much better than the normal one.
Its a bit sad that velobuild went for those speed release if they don't provide the "real" one, but I understand it's a money reason
Do you have a link?
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Hi, I received my frame some days ago. I am setting it up and have several questions. A friend of mine gave me a couple of sram flat mount brakes, the front one with adapter, but no more bolts, so I need ones for rear and front brakes. Does anybody know their length? This is my first road bike with disk brakes and I am a bit confused.
Sorry for my english, I am not an english guy.
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I would highly recommend to get a box of M5 screws with different lengths and just try which ones fit. Depending on frame, brake type and adapters used you will need different lengths and having these available is great. You can get them on Aliexpress for example.
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I would highly recommend to get a box of M6 screws with different lengths and just try which ones fit. Depending on frame, brake type and adapters used you will need different lengths and having these available is great. You can get them on Aliexpress for example.
M6 are for MTB M5 for Road, i made this mistake before i received my frame ;)
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Does Velobuild use the same seatpost shape as Specialized?
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Does Velobuild use the same seatpost shape as Specialized?
IIRC this was discussed in this thread and the answer is no. An original specialized won't fit the Velobuild but you can get a spare one from Velobuild pretty cheap.
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I will just give a brief report on my 268 after 1600+km. It's my first road bike and I'm satisfied as I can get. Honestly don't know what more would I want from a frame as cheap as this one. I swapped my handlebars to 38/90 from 42/110, and it suits me better.
Seatpost doesn't slip but I did have a couple of instances where my saddle tilted a bit. I cleaned the interface with brake cleaner and tightened it to around 10-12nm and it's rock solid under my 85kg ass.
Headset did go loose from time to time, but I fixed it with some random aliex plug that seemes a bit rougher than the one I've put previously. Interestingly, the longer plug slipped often, but this rougher and smaller endures firmly so far.
Only gripe is the paint finish. I wish it was a bit tougher. It chips pretty fast and easy. And it's too bad considering the painjob itself is really nice.
That's pretty much all. I'm enjoying the road bike after years of mtb, and jumping on my (pretty lightweight) xc machince, I'm feeling so slugish XD... But the first time I jumped on the road bike I thought It would brake, how thin everything is. ;D
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Here's an update on my frame. Unfortunately i have an issue with the cover that goes on top of the steerer tube. It's crooked and therefore doesn't sit straight. I sent Chris pictures and he confirmed to me that it's faulty. He told me they'll sende me a new (unpainted) one. This was end of january and no update yet. I asked multiple times and now answer.
I have issues with reappearing headset play. I'm not sure if that's related to the cover not sitting correctly but i think so. I also had the integrated handlebars come lose once after going over cobbles even though i torqued them to spec. I tightened them further and they didn't come lose again but i still have headset play issues. Hope this will get fixed with the new cover. Hope it will finally arrive or at least i get a reply. Before shipping Chris was really responsive. Now not so much anymore.
I also have some slight issues with the saddle clamp. I think a one screw clamp ist just a bad design. If i torque it really tight it holds up but i would prefer a two clamp mechanism. I ordered an spcycle R088 so the Velobuild will probably stay on the smart trainer anyway but i still would like to fix the headset issues.
I'll attach some pictures of the crooked cover.
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Here's an update on my frame. Unfortunately i have an issue with the cover that goes on top of the steerer tube. It's crooked and therefore doesn't sit straight. I sent Chris pictures and he confirmed to me that it's faulty. He told me they'll sende me a new (unpainted) one. This was end of january and no update yet. I asked multiple times and now answer.
I have issues with reappearing headset play. I'm not sure if that's related to the cover not sitting correctly but i think so. I also had the integrated handlebars come lose once after going over cobbles even though i torqued them to spec. I tightened them further and they didn't come lose again but i still have headset play issues. Hope this will get fixed with the new cover. Hope it will finally arrive or at least i get a reply. Before shipping Chris was really responsive. Now not so much anymore.
I also have some slight issues with the saddle clamp. I think a one screw clamp ist just a bad design. If i torque it really tight it holds up but i would prefer a two clamp mechanism. I ordered an spcycle R088 so the Velobuild will probably stay on the smart trainer anyway but i still would like to fix the headset issues.
I'll attach some pictures of the crooked cover.
If chris said he'd send you a replacement, he probably did. You may simply be able to grind the white one a bit, btw. This area of the bike is tricky, internal routing is still very new, so there are a lot of things that can cause rubbing, force applied in the wrong directions and so on. If you understand what you're doing (that's a big if), dont be afraid to torque more than advised, one reason being that the complexity of the rig sometimes means some of the force isn't applied in the right axis. Another reason is that if you have an expander plug in the steerer, over tightening the stem isn't going to crush the steerer, for eg. But if it's carbon it may snap the stem, hence the "If you understand what you're doing ". I over tighten my expander plug, for example, and the stem cap, because it's the only way i get stuff not to slip. But i do that when the stem is in place, so i'm not going to explode the steerer, and the stem cap is never going to crush the steerer, the bolt will give out first. So it's controlled chaos :)
That said, if your C ring doesnt have a slit in it, for eg, then good luck getting rid of play. Ditto if your headset bearing seats aren't the right size.
As i said, it's complicated.
I will just give a brief report on my 268 after 1600+km. It's my first road bike and I'm satisfied as I can get. Honestly don't know what more would I want from a frame as cheap as this one. I swapped my handlebars to 38/90 from 42/110, and it suits me better.
Seatpost doesn't slip but I did have a couple of instances where my saddle tilted a bit. I cleaned the interface with brake cleaner and tightened it to around 10-12nm and it's rock solid under my 85kg ass.
Headset did go loose from time to time, but I fixed it with some random aliex plug that seemes a bit rougher than the one I've put previously. Interestingly, the longer plug slipped often, but this rougher and smaller endures firmly so far.
Only gripe is the paint finish. I wish it was a bit tougher. It chips pretty fast and easy. And it's too bad considering the painjob itself is really nice.
That's pretty much all. I'm enjoying the road bike after years of mtb, and jumping on my (pretty lightweight) xc machince, I'm feeling so slugish XD... But the first time I jumped on the road bike I thought It would brake, how thin everything is. ;D
That's a great summary of what to expect from these bikes, i think. It works, it's good value, what else to expect? I have ridden quite a few branded & high end road bikes over the years, my cheap open mould from long teng is just amazing, i really dont see how the frame would be the limiting factor in the equation of me + bike. It's rather clearly me that can't do the bike justice.
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...It's rather clearly me that can't do the bike justice.
It's so true. I once tought "they with all that carbon bling are faster than me because of those 10kg bikes", until on one race random 65yo dude with some old crappy bike and a belly under his belt went past me on a steep uphill... And I was in solid form at that time. That was a reality check that haunts me to this day :)
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I am 194cm tall. Will the 58cm be large enough for me?
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I am 194cm tall. Will the 58cm be large enough for me?
If you're not allergic to a bit of trigonometry, check out https://geometrygeeks.bike. Compare an existing bike that fits you (or doesnt) (or several bikes you've ridden before) to the one you're looking to buy. That's how i figure out what to buy for myself and for friends. I've ridden bikes that were too big for me for years, you do want to put in the effort to limit the risk of buying the wrong size.
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Any recommendations for a computer mount for these bars?
My first one mounted to the underside bolts snapped almost instantly...
Anyone found one to clamp around the bars?
Needs to fit a Wahoo Element Bolt
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Finally mounted bike.
80% wrapped with stoneguard film.
Bottle cage, pedals, and garmin mount.
Little heavy Elite ENT 50mm (1700g)
R7000 groupset
8.2kg
Frame M size weight around 1170g but this color 8)
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Does anybody use standard thru axle instead of speed release? Looking for additional axle for trainer.
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Get some spares axles from VB for the trainer.
Stupid question, is 30mm spacer height safe for this fork (comes with 15+10+5 right)? Including the bottom headset cover it is 45mm. It is a bit above enve and below whisky recommendations. Also, using a micro spacer above the stem would be stupid right? I'm probably paranoid, lol.
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Get some spares axles from VB for the trainer.
Stupid question, is 30mm spacer height safe for this fork (comes with 15+10+5 right)? Including the bottom headset cover it is 45mm. It is a bit above enve and below whisky recommendations. Also, using a micro spacer above the stem would be stupid right? I'm probably paranoid, lol.
Personally i would use a longer expander plug than the one that comes with the frame (i would do that anyways) and it's probably fine. Don't think they'd ship the frame with that many spacers if it was unsafe to ride. Using a spacer on top of the stem so the stem can grip the fork steerer all the way is probably a good idea. Might not be as aesthetically pleasing as you will have to use a round topcap.
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Hello guys !
My shimano 105 mechanical front derailleur comes with a cable stopper . Should I run the hose all the way to derailleur and remove the frame cable stopper ?
Thank you !
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Hello guys !
My shimano 105 mechanical front derailleur comes with a cable stopper . Should I run the hose all the way to derailleur and remove the frame cable stopper ?
Thank you !
Running till the derailleur will result in better performance.
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Running till the derailleur will result in better performance.
Thank you ! That mean i should remove the frame cable guide right ?
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I'm selling my VeloBuild 268 (*frameset) in a size 56 if anyone is interested. Message me.
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What are you getting instead? Or just culling the flock?
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Hello guys !
My shimano 105 mechanical front derailleur comes with a cable stopper . Should I run the hose all the way to derailleur and remove the frame cable stopper ?
Thank you !
I also have mech 105 and i drilled larger hole in stopper.