Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: neobiker on July 16, 2023, 04:45:18 AM
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When I was speaking with the light carbon sales representative, they told me they release a new model for Eurobike, I forgot to post :-) we
I am disappointed that we can't order the 1088 (https://www.yishunbike.com/product/r1088-daero-road/), but some of you might be interested :-)
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It's directly the new Lab71 Supersix Evo knockoff in my opinion.
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Yea what is the deal with Yishun bikes? They have some awesome frames I would love to order. Do they sell under a different name?
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Yes, Light Carbon
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Looks nothing like the 1058-D on Yishun Bike's website. If this is what that model looks like in final production its a pretty interesting departure.
(https://www.yishunbike.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/R1058D-700C-full-internal-carbon-road-disc-brake-frameset-2.jpg)
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Very hot :o
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Hiya, I have ordered the Yishun R1058_D. It is different to the new lightcarbon, they have different geometry. Lightcarbon is the direct to consumer arm of yishun who are the OEM manufacturer, however you can sometimes order directly from Yishun. Apparently you can't always. I started a separate thread for the Yishun 1058D if you were interested, just search it. The model is there own design and mould, they have their own R&D department and are registered as a company in germany. You can get the frames with a 5 year warranty for 20% additional cost which I went for, all in it cost about 800gbp. The frame is a mix of T700 and T800 carbon, T800 on all high stress areas. Yishun are the OEM manufacturer for Ribble in the UK and Da Rosa in italy as well as some other small italian brand, the quality is supposed to be top notch. I am expecting delivery end of august/early september.
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I am trying to order 1088 from Yishun, and I think I can dream before getting it for a long time xD.
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I like the 1018, though it seems "aggressively" enduro lol.
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When I was speaking with the light carbon sales representative, they told me they release a new model for Eurobike, I forgot to post :-) we
I am disappointed that we can't order the 1088 (https://www.yishunbike.com/product/r1088-daero-road/), but some of you might be interested :-)
Bike and geometry are not on their website yet, are they?
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They display it here tough.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-in-eurobike-2023_n68
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Is matte black the only colour choice when ordering a single framest from them? Both the new frame and that aero LX-something-something look nice, and that paintjob on aero frame is sweeeeet
Take it with grain of salt, but someone uploaded geometry chart to LightCarbon Facebook page. Looks to be more aggressive than SuperSix Evo
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You can ask any color, they will charge you obviously.
But they have nice colors: https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
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So... Has anyone ordered the LCR017-D frame yet? I was taking a second look at their geometry chart and it seems like a mess. I am no bike expert, but size 49 frame should not have longer wheelbase than size 54, right?
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So... Has anyone ordered the LCR017-D frame yet? I was taking a second look at their geometry chart and it seems like a mess. I am no bike expert, but size 49 frame should not have longer wheelbase than size 54, right?
The numbers do seem correct ( I've put the numbers in www.bikegeo.net) . Whether it makes sense to have such a geometry for that bike size I don't know. Maybe compare it with some other brands and make your conclusion?
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It seems they wanted to keep the same WB for each sizes so they are playing with head angle and reach. Only stack has a normal increase between each size + 20mm.
Yes i think the geometry is really akward and strange, 1,90m people must ride on the same short bike designed for 1,60!
I never understand why road geometry doesn't keep the same HA and just reach and stack increasing.
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The numbers do seem correct ( I've put the numbers in www.bikegeo.net) . Whether it makes sense to have such a geometry for that bike size I don't know. Maybe compare it with some other brands and make your conclusion?
I see. I compared it against Supersix Evo 4 and Cannondale seems to follow the same logic of playing around with angles to make some measurements like wheelbase roughly similar. However, that bike does have steady increase on stack and reach as opposed to LightCarbon. 520 stack and 390 reach is CRAZY aggressive.
Another thing I wonder about is steerer tube - SSE 4 uses a delta steerer to make room for integrated cables.
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So I wrote them an email and asked for quote on size 54 frame. Got the following answer:
"Thanks for your inquiry about the LCR017-D size 54cm,
Frame set including frame+ seat post (SP03) + fork + handlebar (HBR13 supper light handlebar)+ seat clamp+ head set+ front & rear thru-axle, and two hangers for rear derailleur.
Color: UD matt, (painting customized is acceptable with extra cost.)
Supper light version price is USD$805/set including shipping cost and all taxes to Lithuania, loading time is about 70 days,
Normal weight version price is USD$763/set including shipping cost and all taxes to Lithuania, loading time is about 50 days,
if change the handlebar to normal weight handlebar HBR11, cost can be cheaper about USD$20"
So it seems like the frames are built to order and multiple levels of specs are available. 800 bucks all in for a handlebar, thru axles and a 900g frame isn't so bad
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Hi,
New to forum. Was looking at the Elves Falath Evo but concerned about the rear wheel clearance (too big a gap for someone used to fag paper clearance on my bikes in 80s). Looked at various others on here and reached out to Yishun on their R1088-D.
They have agreed btw to supply this in Matt Black, with seatpost, stem (not integrated bar) for 699 Euros from their stock in Germany. Custom painting would be a different price from China. My issue that stops me buying is that I run most of my bikes 1 X and I'd want to remove hanger. They tell me this is difficult (it looks like Allen Key on their web pictures but I'm presuming it's actually riveted). So still thinking about it but thought I'd add the intel as they have suggested it's superior to the R086 which is well reviewed on here.
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They accepted to send you a 1088? Can you forward me the mail? XD I am dying to get the frame.
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They accepted to send you a 1088? Can you forward me the mail? XD I am dying to get the frame.
Haha I was thinking the same! I reached out to them regarding the 1088 a few weeks back and they said they would not sell it to individual customers.
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Haha I was thinking the same! I reached out to them regarding the 1088 a few weeks back and they said they would not sell it to individual customers.
Interesting, when I wrote them last week, the reply I got was "R1088-D size 53, it's only in China stock right now.", which indicates that the frame is available to customers, at least in certain sizes IMO?
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My issue that stops me buying is that I run most of my bikes 1 X and I'd want to remove hanger. They tell me this is difficult (it looks like Allen Key on their web pictures but I'm presuming it's actually riveted).
The same hanger is on my R086D and I was able to immediately remove it upon delivery. I'm also running a 1x setup.
2mm and 2.5mm bolts don't require much torque so you should be able to remove it.
After a few exchanges with Yishun, it seems the main reason they are reluctant to offer frames to the general public is to avoid overstepping their agreement with 3rd party brands who may have ordered (or in part developed) frames and are charging double the price.
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Thanks. Good to know.
Looks like they are well made and relatively light. Will probably go for the black rather than a painted Chinese version. With duties I think I'll be looking at GBP 750 which seems like a good price.
My enquiry related to a size 470 btw.
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Enquired about this frame and only 54 is currently available- I need a 58. Maybe next year 58 mould will be released.
I'm not a bike designer or bike specific engineer, but I can't but help to think the bottom bracket area looks a shade underbuilt compared to other frames on the market at the moment. Perhaps it'll give more compliance.
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WTF, I just asked if 1058-D Size 54 is available and they said it's not. Maybe I'll ask again and decide now on what to buy
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So... Has anyone ordered the LCR017-D frame yet? I was taking a second look at their geometry chart and it seems like a mess. I am no bike expert, but size 49 frame should not have longer wheelbase than size 54, right?
Small sizes have a slacker head tube angle, to avoid toe overlap. By lowering the head tube angle, the front wheel moves forward a bit more, which also results in a slightly longer wheel base.
In my opinion, small sizes should be designed around 650B wheels, not 700C. I believe Canyon does this for some of their women's sizes, but I don't know of many others.
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While toe overlap is a concern, I doubt its the primary driver behind slack head angles for small riders. Unless your toes are going into the spokes its an annoying but it doesn't really affect most riding situations
The bigger issue is weight balance. A smaller rider often going to be pitched forward relative to the bottom bracket. This is result of 2x groupsets requiring a min chainstay length to function. Combine that with a reluctance to limit crank length / lack of available cranks under 165mm (and in some cases 170mm) and you end up with BB drops maxing out at at 75mm. That min wheelbase for the rear ends up meaning that a typical size 51 frame has weight distribution between 55%-57% rear biased vs. the typical 56mm frame being 61%-62% rear biased. Slacker head angles with higher offset forks like the Cannondale Supersix Evo uses are a way to solve this problem, though that makes those bikes feel kind of slow through, tight, lower speed sections.
650b for road doesn't fix the weight balance issues unless you move to 1x, has a cursedly small selection of tires, and its unworkable for road racing. Not that Canyon is a shining example of good bike design decisions anyway.
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I think the geo chart for the LCR017-D is still shaking out. I took the geo chart from this (reseller?) https://jmcarbonframe.nl/frames-race/
And it looks like either the fork rake (unclear if that is what is in the second WB column) or the trail are incorrect.
If they had a 50mm or 55mm fork available for smaller sizes and this bike could take 35mm tires it would be interesting and pushing the envelope a bit, but 32mm is still very much on trend.
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And it looks like either the fork rake (unclear if that is what is in the second WB column) or the trail are incorrect.
Hello friend, that is a typo on the reseller's website, along with all of the frame photos. The second WB column should be fork rake/offset. Thankyou.
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Now our LCR017-D only size 54cm passed the test, other size maybe will a little change, now only on design,
have two version, supper light version for rider under 100kgs, norma weight for rider under 120kgs,
some photos on google photos,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
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I think the geo chart for the LCR017-D is still shaking out. I took the geo chart from this (reseller?) https://jmcarbonframe.nl/frames-race/
And it looks like either the fork rake (unclear if that is what is in the second WB column) or the trail are incorrect.
If they had a 50mm or 55mm fork available for smaller sizes and this bike could take 35mm tires it would be interesting and pushing the envelope a bit, but 32mm is still very much on trend.
The second WB is the fork rake/ offset, 45mm
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The seat tube, seat stays and seat post look so different in these photo compared to the ones on your Facebook page.
Doesn't look like the same frame...
The seat tube has been changed because the original seat post can not support strong enough.
The length between top tube and down tube is different because the sizes,
the frame in the Eurobike is only sample,
The production frame has some minor modifications, such as the shape of the top tube.
In addition, the angle of taking pictures will also cause the results to look different
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The seat tube has been changed because the original seat post can not support strong enough.
The length between top tube and down tube is different because the sizes,
the frame in the Eurobike is only sample,
The production frame has some minor modifications, such as the shape of the top tube.
In addition, the angle of taking pictures will also cause the results to look different
Fair. Sounds good, Jim.
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The seat tube has been changed because the original seat post can not support strong enough.
The length between top tube and down tube is different because the sizes,
the frame in the Eurobike is only sample,
The production frame has some minor modifications, such as the shape of the top tube.
In addition, the angle of taking pictures will also cause the results to look different
is size 54 available now for distribution?
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wow, that's aesthetically a completely different bike. A shame, since I liked the original design (apart from the super thin junction at the bottom bracket).
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yah, it's pretty much like Lab71 on the first design. Maybe they don't want some legal action from cannondale on copying Lab71's design
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yeah now it looks so generic and .. hate to say it .. ugly =\
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Agreed, the frame is way less appealing than the prototype. I would prefer the LCR0X in term of design.
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is size 54 available now for distribution?
size 54cm normal weight 1050g, loading time about 40-50 days after payment,
supper light version 950g need about 70 days,
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Agreed, the frame is way less appealing than the prototype. I would prefer the LCR0X in term of design.
the frame LCROX-D have too many bike brands and bike shops use it add their brand, it's a classic aero frame,
we need a new frame for long distance, More relaxed and non-aggressive geometry.
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the frame LCROX-D have too many bike brands and bike shops use it add their brand, it's a classic aero frame,
we need a new frame for long distance, More relaxed and non-aggressive geometry.
Agreed, but you could have made an endurance bike that looks aero, with an endurance geometry.
Something like the LCR0X but with different seat tube angles would have been amazing or something like the Yishun R068-D which looks like a Venge with a more relaxed geometry.
Or something that looks like the new Pinarello X Series
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I actually prefer the production version - the lines look more proportional. Much like a Merida Scultura but with a threaded BB. Could be my next bike!
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I actually prefer the production version - the lines look more proportional. Much like a Merida Scultura but with a threaded BB. Could be my next bike!
Yeah I agree, it looks like a Merida Scultura. It now comes to my mind that Lab71 is not a really good design and we might see some videos from Hambini roasting that frame lol.
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I wonder if you can ask to swap fork and wonder if that would be compatible, I prefer the one from the LCR0X.
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But back to Topic.
Which frame should be better?
LCR017-D (Light Version 900g cause - is it possible) or Yishun R1058-D (Normal Version 1050g / LightVersion not possible)?
Both are in my shortlist for an competitive Allround-Bike-Build.
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They're both kinda different geometry, so maybe the better one is the one that suits your needs best.
I had both on my shortlist and went with an R086-D, instead.
Wait I thought you went for LCR0X?
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Wait I thought you went for LCR0X?
Ended up canning the order and went with the R068-D instead. In the end I felt the LCR0X's stack is just a little too low for me. I think for my body proportions, the 68 is probably as low as I can get while still slamming the stem...
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Wanted something a little longer reach than my Endurace, similar stack and fully integrated cables. Felt like I was gambling with comfort too much on the 0X. I really liked the eurobike form of the 17, but in its current aesthetic, it's just too meh. T47 would've been nice, but BB86 it is.
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Now our LCR017-D only size 54cm passed the test, other size maybe will a little change, now only on design,
have two version, supper light version for rider under 100kgs, norma weight for rider under 120kgs,
some photos on google photos,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
I don’t understand why the date of the pictures says they were taken on 7th of January 2023, but you still displayed the prototype frame at Eurobike 23 in July and showed it on the web page.
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Because the prototype looks good and the production looks ugly
It does not make any sense though: customers will buy the production build, and why would you show a prototype when you already have the production version?
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I think I will strike at the Superlight version. I find the frame not ugly at all. Rather classic. And with a nice paint job and stickers you can enhance any frame excellent.
And he should just be an all-rounder for competitive use, because I live in a hilly landscape.
Lightcarbon seems to provide excellent quality.
They sell their frames to so many small to medium bike brands.
And I'm just not looking for a tinker frame but a frame like from an established western brand.
And I think here I feel in good hands.
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It does not make any sense though: customers will buy the production build, and why would you show a prototype when you already have the production version?
to generate multiple page threads on chinertown to drum up interest in the brand ;D
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Now our LCR017-D only size 54cm passed the test, other size maybe will a little change, now only on design,
have two version, supper light version for rider under 100kgs, norma weight for rider under 120kgs,
some photos on google photos,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
Today there are the "old" pictures?!!?!??!?!
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Today there are the "old" pictures?!!?!??!?!
Still newer than the ones that were there before.
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The seat tube, seat stays and seat post look so different in these photo compared to the ones on your Facebook page.
Doesn't look like the same frame...
I have the confirmation.
Maybe I'm the only one who got it wrong... This is the Superlight frame. It is designed for people up to a weight of I think 100 or 110 kilograms.
The standard frame looks a bit different... that's probably the other shape that's been around.
Visually, of course, it's really tasty again! :D
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They are not the same frame. Not even a little bit, not at all.
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I have the confirmation.
Maybe I'm the only one who got it wrong... This is the Superlight frame. It is designed for people up to a weight of I think 100 or 110 kilograms.
The standard frame looks a bit different... that's probably the other shape that's been around.
Visually, of course, it's really tasty again! :D
Two versions, one is supper light, max weight 100kgs, annther is normal weight, max weight is 120kgs,
sorry some mistake in my last post, the correctly photos of LCR017-D, final version,
Supper light version and normal weight version both are passed the testing, size 54cm, with the special seatpost,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
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Back to Lab71 design? Sad that I already bought Yishun one. I would be ready to wait for 2 months but Gavin have not responded to me on email so I went with R086D. Maybe this will be my second bike just in case
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Two versions, one is supper light, max weight 100kgs, annther is normal weight, max weight is 120kgs,
sorry some mistake in my last post, the correctly photos of LCR017-D, final version,
Supper light version and normal weight version both are passed the testing, size 54cm, with the special seatpost,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
That is a nice looking frame :D
Here it already is for sale: https://jmcarbonframe.nl/frames-race/ (https://jmcarbonframe.nl/frames-race/)
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Two versions, one is supper light, max weight 100kgs, annther is normal weight, max weight is 120kgs,
sorry some mistake in my last post, the correctly photos of LCR017-D, final version,
Supper light version and normal weight version both are passed the testing, size 54cm, with the special seatpost,
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6fnizD7PMyFJ591u8
So the superlight version has a different aesthetic to the normal weight version, correct?
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no, they have the same look, only different carbon material and/or lay-up.
there was confusion since first there were pictures in that album from a different looking bike
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for your information.
I ordered this morning the super-light version :D
and I'm really looking forward to it.
So far, I am very impressed with my contact: Wendy.
Very very fast. Very professional and attentive. and she seems to have a clue.
Also with my desired paint job, it was much easier and faster than with ICAN.
I was pestered with questions and had exact ideas about the design and was very precise... and everything was answered quickly, friendly and well.
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for your information.
I ordered this morning the super-light version :D
and I'm really looking forward to it.
So far, I am very impressed with my contact: Wendy.
Very very fast. Very professional and attentive. and she seems to have a clue.
Also with my desired paint job, it was much easier and faster than with ICAN.
I was pestered with questions and had exact ideas about the design and was very precise... and everything was answered quickly, friendly and well.
Good for you man! I really love the design of the frame but Gavin was not able to reply to me immediately and I just bought Yishun's R086D. Told him that I am willing to wait for months for the LCR017D.
Give us your impressions and review when you get it!
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for your information.
I ordered this morning the super-light version :D
and I'm really looking forward to it.
So far, I am very impressed with my contact: Wendy.
Very very fast. Very professional and attentive. and she seems to have a clue.
Also with my desired paint job, it was much easier and faster than with ICAN.
I was pestered with questions and had exact ideas about the design and was very precise... and everything was answered quickly, friendly and well.
I can say the same about dealing with Yishunbike recently. The Guidance from Kitty was very handy and within 24h. I had the chance ordering the R1058-D and they accepted my custom paint scheme as well as building up a specific rim/hub combination. So all in all about communication it was a very reliable experience.
They even told me, that after Patrick posted his youtube video about the R086-D, they receive a high amount of traffic and attention and are not able to deal with everyone.
I keep you posted when receiving the frameset and wheels and will comment on quality as I have the direct comparison to the new G21 from Yoeleo and there rims.
Cheers,
Marco
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I can say the same about dealing with Yishunbike recently. The Guidance from Kitty was very handy and within 24h. I had the chance ordering the R1058-D and they accepted my custom paint scheme as well as building up a specific rim/hub combination. So all in all about communication it was a very reliable experience.
They even told me, that after Patrick posted his youtube video about the R086-D, they receive a high amount of traffic and attention and are not able to deal with everyone.
I keep you posted when receiving the frameset and wheels and will comment on quality as I have the direct comparison to the new G21 from Yoeleo and there rims.
Cheers,
Marco
Do they accept paint scheme now?
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Do they accept paint scheme now?
not really, I briefly asked as I have some friends waiting for the final build & quality to maybe place a consolidated order in 2024. They accepted the painting as kind of "advertisement".
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I can say the same about dealing with Yishunbike recently. The Guidance from Kitty was very handy and within 24h. I had the chance ordering the R1058-D and they accepted my custom paint scheme as well as building up a specific rim/hub combination. So all in all about communication it was a very reliable experience.
They even told me, that after Patrick posted his youtube video about the R086-D, they receive a high amount of traffic and attention and are not able to deal with everyone.
I keep you posted when receiving the frameset and wheels and will comment on quality as I have the direct comparison to the new G21 from Yoeleo and there rims.
Cheers,
Marco
And R1058D is now available. WTF why they said that it was not available when I am looking for frame and it is now available when I already have one :(
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And R1058D is now available. WTF why they said that it was not available when I am looking for frame and it is now available when I already have one :(
but only the standard version...
i also wrote to kitty about the frame, and from the beginning i talked about the light version.
Shortly before the order and after mentioning again that I would like to order the 950g frame - I was told that it would take many months longer than the standard frame until it was ready for production....
Thereupon I turned away... and decided for the LCR017-D - which is even cheaper in the superlight version with all additional costs...
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Hey man, be happy, you have a legit amazing frame from what I can gather. Don't sweat it.
I really wanted an LCR017D or R1058D since it's not as aggressive as R086D. I even ordered a 100mm integrated bar stem combo and planning to use all spacers just to alleviate the aggressiveness of the frame. Tho I haven't tested the frame yet as I am still choosing a groupset and wheelset so it might take awhile. (next month would be the earliest as I still need to prioritize our upcoming baby! :) )
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I really wanted an LCR017D or R1058D since it's not as aggressive as R086D. I even ordered a 100mm integrated bar stem combo and planning to use all spacers just to alleviate the aggressiveness of the frame. Tho I haven't tested the frame yet as I am still choosing a groupset and wheelset so it might take awhile. (next month would be the earliest as I still need to prioritize our upcoming baby! :) )
You could've ordered something less aggressive like the R068-D, though?
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I really wanted an LCR017D or R1058D since it's not as aggressive as R086D. I even ordered a 100mm integrated bar stem combo and planning to use all spacers just to alleviate the aggressiveness of the frame. Tho I haven't tested the frame yet as I am still choosing a groupset and wheelset so it might take awhile. (next month would be the earliest as I still need to prioritize our upcoming baby! :) )
Good luck with the baby!
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@JimLee
Any photos of a fully built up frame?
When will super light version be available in sizes 56 and 58?
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@JimLee
Any photos of a fully built up frame?
When will super light version be available in sizes 56 and 58?
No photos of completed bike, some brands got the frame size 54cm as sample order, but no share us the photos,
size 54cm normal weight version loading time is 20 days, supper light version loading time is 30 days,
size 56cm need longer time, about 50 days. super light version need more 10 days,
size 58cm now in testing, more than 60 days,super light version need more 10 days,
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I pulled the trigger today, but I will have to wait a long time. Hopefully my frame will be shipped before Chinese New Year.
I chatted with the European distributor and got some more details and a photo of a complete build (prototype, size 54). Looks promising...
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Nice! How much did you pay for the frame?
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I pulled the trigger today, but I will have to wait a long time. Hopefully my frame will be shipped before Chinese New Year.
I chatted with the European distributor and got some more details and a photo of a complete build (prototype, size 54). Looks promising...
Looks sick! As much as I want just one bike for each discipline (i ride XC and Road atm), I might assemble another one for this frame.
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Nice! How much did you pay for the frame?
590$ frame (30$ discount), 147$ (shipping to Germany including taxes), 37$ PayPal fee, 100 custom painting.
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According tire clearance I got these pictures with 28mm tires. Looks like a lot of room for32 tires, maybe even more...
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Just an update on pricing from Yishun for the 1058-D. That was enough to turn me down on that frame. Those prices are getting really close to Yoleo frames I could get from Yoleo website here in Canada. Not worth it to deal with a direct factory from China at this price from my point of view.
For retail orders, R1058-D is 749 USD per set, including frame, fork, seat post, clamp, headset, and handlebar.
The painting cost will be around 150 USD
Shipping cost from China to Canada: 185 USD
Paypal fee: 5%
Total 1138 USD
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Question...I am kind of a noob to bike geometry but isn't the trail pretty abnormal for a road bike? That seems more in line with gravel bikes? I really like the idea of this frame as an all-around race bike...option for wide tires, a t47 bottom bracket, and aero are the main things I am looking for. Also, are 140 mm rotors the norm for the front? Seems like 160 is more common with the major manufactures.
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Questions
1 - Is the LCR017-D available in all sizes yet, or just 54?
2 - LC (not Yishun) offer paint options correct?
3 - The lightweight version is not available for single orders?
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Questions
1 - Is the LCR017-D available in all sizes yet, or just 54?
2 - LC (not Yishun) offer paint options correct?
3 - The lightweight version is not available for single orders?
You can order all sizes, but production will take longer for some of them. I ordered a 58 and it will be shipped next year. Paint options are available. I ordered one light weight version, so single orders should be possible.
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Questions
1 - Is the LCR017-D available in all sizes yet, or just 54?
2 - LC (not Yishun) offer paint options correct?
3 - The lightweight version is not available for single orders?
I think size 56 has now also passed the test and can be pre-ordered.
Yes. I ordered a complete custom paint job. You can mix all shades of pantonet.
I was able to order the light version. So it will be possible.
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Coincidentally, I had this brand's advertisement pop up on my Instagram feed earlier today. Never heard of them. $7000 USD for a 105 Di2 equipped bike. Does this frame not look like some sort of Yishun/LC variant?
https://alcavibikes.com/collections/bikes/products/alcavi-v1-shimano-105
What annoys about micro-brands like this one (besides a bike costing more than a similar spec Tarmac SL8) is their marketing videos want you believe they actually spent 5 years developing a frame. Rather than simply going to an OEM factory from China to purchase a licensed frame. I really hope I'm wrong about this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kC1f6z8m_jI&t=1s
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Coincidentally, I had this brand's advertisement pop up on my Instagram feed earlier today. Never heard of them. $7000 USD for a 105 Di2 equipped bike. Does this frame not look like some sort of Yishun/LC variant?
https://alcavibikes.com/collections/bikes/products/alcavi-v1-shimano-105
What annoys about micro-brands like this one (besides a bike costing more than a similar spec Tarmac SL8) is their marketing videos want you believe they actually spent 5 years developing a frame. Rather than simply going to an OEM factory from China to purchase a licensed frame. I really hope I'm wrong about this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kC1f6z8m_jI&t=1s
Another Lightcarbon's LCR0X-D lol. Well who would buy a $7k bike if they say it came directly from Chinese manufacturers. I have been into some discussions that they said that they would not buy bikes/bike parts that is coming from China. Well hate to burst their bubble and I said that their carbon wheels and frames are straightly manufactured from China lol
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Coincidentally, I had this brand's advertisement pop up on my Instagram feed earlier today. Never heard of them. $7000 USD for a 105 Di2 equipped bike. Does this frame not look like some sort of Yishun/LC variant?
https://alcavibikes.com/collections/bikes/products/alcavi-v1-shimano-105
What annoys about micro-brands like this one (besides a bike costing more than a similar spec Tarmac SL8) is their marketing videos want you believe they actually spent 5 years developing a frame. Rather than simply going to an OEM factory from China to purchase a licensed frame. I really hope I'm wrong about this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kC1f6z8m_jI&t=1s
VALUES
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Coincidentally, I had this brand's advertisement pop up on my Instagram feed earlier today. Never heard of them. $7000 USD for a 105 Di2 equipped bike. Does this frame not look like some sort of Yishun/LC variant?
https://alcavibikes.com/collections/bikes/products/alcavi-v1-shimano-105
What annoys about micro-brands like this one (besides a bike costing more than a similar spec Tarmac SL8) is their marketing videos want you believe they actually spent 5 years developing a frame. Rather than simply going to an OEM factory from China to purchase a licensed frame. I really hope I'm wrong about this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kC1f6z8m_jI&t=1s
I don't think it is exactly the same frame. Geometry is different and details are similar, but not the same.
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I don't think it is exactly the same frame. Geometry is different and details are similar, but not the same.
This is the frame
https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-integrated-road-disc-brake-frame_p136.html
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This is the frame
https://www.lightcarbon.com/new-integrated-road-disc-brake-frame_p136.html
I think they swapped the fork on it. Maybe there are other changes like using a different layup?
Speaking of forks, I really wish that they offered more than one fork rake for the LCR017. Ritte does this with a single design, but I am not sure how they do it. One way would be to use a bolt through design like OPEN and just change out the alloy hardware + a shim between the fork and the caliper.
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Visually I hate that style of saddle rail clamp. But it does make it easier to adjust fore and aft without interfering with saddle height and angle.
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Are you interested in reviewing a new entry level Chinese carbon frame?
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Are you interested in reviewing a new entry level Chinese carbon frame?
DM me.
Unless you were not talking to me :(
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my Yishun R1058D arrived finally
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Do you guys know a suitable handlebar which is 360 or 380mm wide?
LC has only an 400 wide option. With 370 shoulders not ideal.
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Do you guys know a suitable handlebar which is 360 or 380mm wide?
LC has only an 400 wide option. With 370 shoulders not ideal.
Maybe you can try to ask them for narrower width handlebar
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Do you guys know a suitable handlebar which is 360 or 380mm wide?
LC has only an 400 wide option. With 370 shoulders not ideal.
Good one piece options are EXS Aerova or Farsports F1s.
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Do you guys know a suitable handlebar which is 360 or 380mm wide?
LC has only an 400 wide option. With 370 shoulders not ideal.
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! 974,18zł 25%OFF | FIRE SPIDER Bike Handlebar T1000 Carbon -12 Degrees Ultra Light Hidden Road Bicycle Handle Bar Di2 Integrated Handlebar
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExpOhp9
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Do you guys know a suitable handlebar which is 360 or 380mm wide?
LC has only an 400 wide option. With 370 shoulders not ideal.
Check if theese might be suitable. Available as 380mm.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005495420157.html
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my Yishun R1058D arrived finally
That looks great! Mine will come sometime in January ::)
Is the seatpost meant for round or oval saddle rails - or works for both? Just realised that I did not ask about it :o
Would you mind sharing a close-up?
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Some newest photos of LCR017-D with T47,
weight A, the weight of only frame is about 910g.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvSVbp3VtUzUp3ij9
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@JimLee, which sizes are currently available?
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What is the BB shell width on the LCR017-D yet, is it T47 or T47i?
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What is the BB shell width on the LCR017-D yet, is it T47 or T47i?
I asked this directly at LC and Wendy replied that it's 68mm width.
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They even told me, that after Patrick posted his youtube video about the R086-D, they receive a high amount of traffic and attention and are not able to deal with everyone.
How did I miss this comment?
I need to circle back to Yishun with another frame haha. Maybe a 1058 painted.
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Some newest photos of LCR017-D with T47,
weight A, the weight of only frame is about 910g.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvSVbp3VtUzUp3ij9
910g is pretty good. I guess the superlight version will also get another ~120g savings from the HBR13 handlebars (310g) over the HBR07 bars (430g).
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Super cool looking frame.
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https://handslingbikes.com/products/handsling-a1r0evo-sram-force-axs
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https://handslingbikes.com/products/handsling-a1r0evo-sram-force-axs
This is not the lightcarbon frame, different bottom bracket, seat stays are different and geometry is not the same.
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Cool looking frame, in any event. Anyone know who makes the handsling?
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Cool looking frame, in any event. Anyone know who makes the handsling?
I think they really do their own frame (at least, it's not open mould). I would love to test their upcomming TT/TRI-frame:
https://handslingbikes.com/collections/triathlon-frames
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What is the BB shell width on the LCR017-D yet, is it T47 or T47i?
T47x (external bearings) for the smaller width bb shell
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my LCR017 arrived yesterday.
With custom paintwork.
First impression:
Wow.
Simply wow.
As soon as the bike is assembled, I'll put this beauty perfectly in scene and present it to you ;-)
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looking forward to seeing some pics of it
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@WhityWhite,
Don't let perfection be the enemy of the good! Crappy pics are better than no pics!!!!! ;D 8)
In all honesty, can't wait to see it built up!
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my LCR017 arrived yesterday.
With custom paintwork.
First impression:
Wow.
Simply wow.
As soon as the bike is assembled, I'll put this beauty perfectly in scene and present it to you ;-)
Details about the prices please. :)
@WhityWhite,
Crappy pics are better than no pics!!!!! ;D 8)
Yes, pics or it didn't happen. :)
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LC was my first choice when I am building my very first Chiner. I am planning to buy MTB from LC but I guess another road bike would not hurt tho
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Okay okay... A little spoiler.
But more really only after assembly.
Bottom bracket and wheels are still on the way :D
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Looks awesome! How much they charge for the paint and decal work, or did that happen on your end?
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One clean looking bike!
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Okay okay... A little spoiler.
But more really only after assembly.
Bottom bracket and wheels are still on the way :D
That looks pretty rad. Now I am really interested to get it as my second bike now lol. Gotta use that if I want to do steep and/or long climbs
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Can't stop thinking about that boxed up looking down tube.
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Decal Cost-Framecost. Black and White,Full glossy - US$70
Painting Cost-Frame
Color paint and coating cost for making custom painting frames.
Get frame and fork in Pantone 7473 and Black color painting
Full glossy finish- US$160
Made by Lightcarbon.
And really good work. Better than the ican custom paint, and this paint was good too.
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Looks good!
If not to late, can you take pics on headset bearing seats, BB-area, brake mount area etc, please.
Cheers!
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Last question on the decals … did you send them to them, or just provide pdf/eps files? Thinking about something fun through them and curious about your experience on that tip.
Thanks in advance!
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Last question on the decals … did you send them to them, or just provide pdf/eps files? Thinking about something fun through them and curious about your experience on that tip.
Thanks in advance!
I used to work as a media designer and was able to prepare the design professionally and accurately and make it available. I also provided the decals as a separate vector file.
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Anyone else find resemblance with the CC SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod II?
Ref.
https://escapecollective.com/review-cannondales-supersix-evo-hi-mod-ii-balances-reputation-with-modern-performance/
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Anyone else find resemblance with the CC SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod II?
Ref.
https://escapecollective.com/review-cannondales-supersix-evo-hi-mod-ii-balances-reputation-with-modern-performance/
Yeah the only difference is one is curvy and aero and the other is more boxy and not so aero looking
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Here is my work-in-progress. Frame, handlebar and wheels are from LC.
For the decal, I simply provided the font and there is a little graphic on the headtube where I used simple online tools to reduce a picture to black and white and then made the background transparent.
I am very happy with the build quality so far.
And the communication with LC during the whole process was really, really great!
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My only reservation about this frame is the seemingly little amount of material in the bb area. Just as someone who does sprints once a week, makes me curious to try it to compare against something I know is rigid in the bb.
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Here is my work-in-progress. Frame, handlebar and wheels are from LC.
For the decal, I simply provided the font and there is a little graphic on the headtube where I used simple online tools to reduce a picture to black and white and then made the background transparent.
I am very happy with the build quality so far.
And the communication with LC during the whole process was really, really great!
Looks nice but any reason you went for a copy of the standard byke logo? Just seems a little weird as someone who just takes a quick look at the frame and sees a branding that doesn't belong on the frame.
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Looks nice but any reason you went for a copy of the standard byke logo? Just seems a little weird as someone who just takes a quick look at the frame and sees a branding that doesn't belong on the frame.
I guess its more a joke regarding the "standert" frames, which is just a other "hipster" frame brand from Berlin, Germany. I think that joke works quite well here, as he also used the same font and a similar logo.
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@joegal got me!
I am not a very creative person but I thought it is standard to have a logo on the down tube and since I couldn't think of a fancy name myself, I ended up with the word itself - and since I like the looks of Standert and Helvetica is a classic font, I snickered a little bit and used it.
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@joegal got me!
I am not a very creative person but I thought it is standard to have a logo on the down tube and since I couldn't think of a fancy name myself, I ended up with the word itself - and since I like the looks of Standert and Helvetica is a classic font, I snickered a little bit and used it.
Fair. Seems like a pretty standard route to take. Hoho
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Here is my work-in-progress. Frame, handlebar and wheels are from LC.
For the decal, I simply provided the font and there is a little graphic on the headtube where I used simple online tools to reduce a picture to black and white and then made the background transparent.
I am very happy with the build quality so far.
And the communication with LC during the whole process was really, really great!
puhhhh - frame looks good, but copying a brand and then misspelling it (extra or not) is a bit like buying fake soccer shirts on vacation in Turkey and finding that everyone laughs at you because the club is misspelled.
Aaaabut - maybe I'm wrong and the joke is on you! ;-)
The frame itself looks good and I hope you enjoy it! :-)
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Here are a few pictures.
I weighed the frame and fork on the kitchen scales ;-)
Frame: 911 g
Fork (uncut): 436 g
I think these are outstanding values. Especially as the whole thing has been painted.
Also attached are the desired detailed pictures.
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Here are a few pictures.
I weighed the frame and fork on the kitchen scales ;-)
Frame: 911 g
Fork (uncut): 436 g
I think these are outstanding values. Especially as the whole thing has been painted.
Also attached are the desired detailed pictures.
What size is the frame and is it the superlite version?
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54 / Superlight.
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54 / Superlight.
910grams for a painted size 54 is insanely light!?! Are you certain the scale is calibrated?
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Some newest photos of LCR017-D with T47,
weight A, the weight of only frame is about 910g.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvSVbp3VtUzUp3ij9
Of course I'm not sure. It's my damn kitchen scales. ;D
But since the manufacturer specifies 910 g, it should be about right.
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Manufacturer says the 54 is closer to 950grams unpainted plus at least another 150-200grams in paint.
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I can confirm the weights. I also have a 54 cm super light and (again) kitchen scale says:
Frame incl. rear hanger: 926.5 g
Fork (uncut): 406.9 g
Handlebar: 329.4 g
Seatpost: 164.9 g
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Wow.., guess less is more! Wouldn't have figure a manufacturer would overstate the weight
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This is my first "build from scratch" bike and my first bike with fully internal cable routing. I have two questions, hope you can help:
After installing everything up to routing cables through the handlebars, I noticed a gap between the frame and the cover under the stem. I believe it derives from the ring guiding the cables / hoses (see picture). Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Should I do something about it? Anyone else with the frame having a similar experience?
And: do you recommend greasing the hoses at least a little bit? I haven't found anything about it but it seems useful to me as it makes the movement when turning the handlebars "softer".
Or is there something - like chemistry - speaking against it?
Thanks a lot!
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That gap seems a bit large, are you positive that all the parts in the headset are installed correctly? It seems that light carbon includes parts for both full- internal and semi- internal hose routing.
The space looks about the same if you compare to the screenshot of the video lightcarbon posted of the lcr017d
I wouldn't worry about greasing the hoses but would definitely install some foam tubing to keep the hoses/ cables silent.
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Thank you, dinorello.
What video is that? Do you have a link for me?
I am not 100% sure about the headset, might need to chat with Wendy once more ;) It's pretty tight with SRAM hoses so I was considering using a bit of grease to make sure things are moving when putting everything together.
Thanks for the advice re foam tubing. Actually used exactly the product you are recommending :D
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This video:
Some newest photos of LCR017-D with T47,
weight A, the weight of only frame is about 910g.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvSVbp3VtUzUp3ij9
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This video:
I don't think that this video should be seen as an good example, because the bike is obviously not assembled completely. I assume that fork and headset will have a massive play with this kind of gap. Or, if everything is well compressed sand without play, a washer or the compression ring is out of spec.
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I don't have this bike, but worth noting that the specs for FSA ACR and Deda DCR headsets are ~4nm of preload, not the ~2nm that most people are used to with traditional headsets.
Also would NOT use grease on cables it will attract dirt and make a nice griding paste in your frame.
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I don't think that this video should be seen as an good example, because the bike is obviously not assembled completely. I assume that fork and headset will have a massive play with this kind of gap. Or, if everything is well compressed sand without play, a washer or the compression ring is out of spec.
That last spacer should not make contact with the frame at all. The compression happens with the metal pass-thru washer that's resting against the top bearing at the head tube. Either that pass thru washer should be thinner by .5mm or that final plastic spacer should have a deeper well to cover more of the pass thru washer as per the last pic
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That last spacer should not make contact with the frame at all. The compression happens with the metal pass-thru washer that's resting against the top bearing at the head tube. Either that pass thru washer should be thinner by .5mm or that final plastic spacer should have a deeper well to cover more of the pass thru washer as per the last pic
That is what I am expecting, too. As said, I am new to internal cable routing and I might have made a mistake but this looks strange. Had already funny pictures in my head what I could have done wrong with the washer or the bearing ::)
Ideally, I will disassemble the headset today and double-check.
@Sakizashi: The "grinding paste" is a fair point. Especially if the gap remains as seen on the pictures, regular checking of the headset unit will be necessary. I would not have used grease on lower parts of the bike anyway. Stem and handlebars were my main thought.
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If its the norm, which is unusual, I have seen a youtuber named oz cycle who has a youtube video dealing with headset space and how to protect it from water using a rubber gasket or a seating washer titled Thread cables thru frame - How to {you can start clip at 2 minutes in)
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If its the norm, which is unusual, I have seen a youtuber named oz cycle who has a youtube video dealing with headset space and how to protect it from water using a rubber gasket or a seating washer titled Thread cables thru frame - How to {you can start clip at 2 minutes in)
Oz Cycle is the best!
https://youtu.be/IQWYPxGicjU?t=98 (https://youtu.be/IQWYPxGicjU?t=98)
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Oz Cycle is the best!
https://youtu.be/IQWYPxGicjU?t=98 (https://youtu.be/IQWYPxGicjU?t=98)
Yeah he went to prison for stealing his neighbour's dog and then starving and beating it to death.
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Yeah he went to prison for stealing his neighbour's dog and then starving and beating it to death.
I just read the article about it mentioned that he has autism. I don't think it's an excuse, but I also have autism and sounds can drive me nuts and to the brink of insanity. I can't imagine killing an animal but can't get into another person's mind either.
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I just read the article about it mentioned that he has autism. I don't think it's an excuse, but I also have autism and sounds can drive me nuts and to the brink of insanity. I can't imagine killing an animal but can't get into another person's mind either.
apparently he got 'diagnosed' right before his court case and after he had kidnapped, beaten then starved and then beaten the dog to death a few day later. so i don't buy it.
i'm the same with sounds as you, there is no excuse for animal cruelty.
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That is what I am expecting, too. As said, I am new to internal cable routing and I might have made a mistake but this looks strange. Had already funny pictures in my head what I could have done wrong with the washer or the bearing ::)
Ideally, I will disassemble the headset today and double-check.
@Sakizashi: The "grinding paste" is a fair point. Especially if the gap remains as seen on the pictures, regular checking of the headset unit will be necessary. I would not have used grease on lower parts of the bike anyway. Stem and handlebars were my main thought.
Maybe the gap is coming from your headset bearings (different sizing top/bottom), that was my issue after building the Yoeleo G21 Batch 1 without the guiding they are providing now. Check that and could be that after switching out the .5mm are gone.
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Thanks, @fiveup89. I will double-check this. I am pretty sure I did it before because I was wondering if they are the same or not but did not think about the washer.
Thanks also for the Oz Cycle video. Good inspiration where to get fitting o-rings ;D
Different topic: I was fiddling with the SRAM Rival front derailleur and even though there setup tool is a great help, I have issues keeping the derailleur aligned with the chainring when tightening the screw. Any advice or shim-recommendations or Oz-videos how to manage this?
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I don't have this bike, but worth noting that the specs for FSA ACR and Deda DCR headsets are ~4nm of preload, not the ~2nm that most people are used to with traditional headsets.
Also would NOT use grease on cables it will attract dirt and make a nice griding paste in your frame.
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Guessing we have a broken thread?
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Yes..if I'm logged in I can't see the last pages posts.
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If we make multiple posts to this thread, will it page through and the 12th will be visible when logged in ... I want my bike porn!
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If we make multiple posts to this thread, will it page through and the 12th will be visible when logged in ... I want my bike porn!
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If we make multiple posts to this thread, will it page through and the 12th will be visible when logged in ... I want my bike porn!
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If we make multiple posts to this thread, will it page through and the 12th will be visible when logged in ... I want my bike porn!
Maybe
More
Rows
Count
More!
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Comment-bombed the previous page to get to a working page 12 ... I was not being intentionally obnoxious, I was being purposefully obnoxious!
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Comment-bombed the previous page to get to a working page 12 ... I was not being intentionally obnoxious, I was being purposefully obnoxious!
Appreciate the effort! Not sure if it worked tho, i had to log out to see page 12 and then had to log in to post a comment.
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Ha! You're a genius! Good job, TY!
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why page 11 of thisnpost can not open?
is there anyone have the photos of completed LCR017-D? we want some photosto show it,
Thanks in advance!
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Hi Jim, can your engineers spec a thinner top tube pass thru washer so the gap isn't as large as it is in the images posted online?
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the painting have the thickness, so if a thinner washer, will can not use on painting frame,
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the painting have the thickness, so if a thinner washer, will can not use on painting frame,
This is from a previous post in this thread of a painted frame which looks to have a too large of a gap between the top tube and the spacer. I believe that the spacer or the pass through washer should be adjusted accordingly
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I suppose you discussed this with Lightcarbon and Wendy sent you the same photo as me specifying that a 1mm gap is normal
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Yes I've discussed it with Wendy but I wouldn't say that a 1mm gap is "normal". Of all the bikes that have integrated bars none have such an unsightly gap which would also allow water and dirt to enter the bearings more easily.
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glad to hear it, I agree with you
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Yes I've discussed it with Wendy but I wouldn't say that a 1mm gap is "normal". Of all the bikes that have integrated bars none have such an unsightly gap which would also allow water and dirt to enter the bearings more easily.
I do not see any gap in the assembly of JMcarbon (European importer based in Holland)
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(http://i.imgur.com/NqVORtB.jpeg)
Heres my headset area, no gaps.
The headset is a bit finicky to put together with the hydraulic lines, I'd disassemble and look to make sure the bearing race isn't jammed on the lines.
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(http://i.imgur.com/NqVORtB.jpeg)
Heres my headset area, no gaps.
The headset is a bit finicky to put together with the hydraulic lines, I'd disassemble and look to make sure the bearing race isn't jammed on the lines.
That doesnt look like a LCR017-D
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That doesnt look like a LCR017-D
Doh
You are right, I was confused, this is the Lightcarbon gravel frame.
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I do not see any gap in the assembly of JMcarbon (European importer based in Holland)
Looks like JM is using metal spacers and top-hat which probably has a deeper recess which covers more of the pass-thru washer
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I agree with you
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This is from a previous post in this thread of a painted frame which looks to have a too large of a gap between the top tube and the spacer. I believe that the spacer or the pass through washer should be adjusted accordingly
Yeah that needs to be fixed. Looks a bit pooey.
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Worst case scenario is you need to file down the pass through washer about a half a millimeter by sliding it on a large file like a hockey puck. It's made out of aluminum so it should go fast
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I do not see any gap in the assembly of JMcarbon (European importer based in Holland)
Can you post a link to the website page you grabbed that image from?
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Can you post a link to the website page you grabbed that image from?
https://www.facebook.com/people/Joost-Mutsaers/100006505398070/
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https://www.facebook.com/people/Joost-Mutsaers/100006505398070/
Wonder if he'd be willing to share which spacer kit he's using?
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Wonder if he'd be willing to share which spacer kit he's using?
I asked him the question on his FB: no answer. I sent him a message on his website. His laconic response is: you bought it in China, contact their sales department. On his FB page, no possibility of comments under the photos. The guy is an importer in Europe.
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He's protecting the premium he's charging.
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I kind of get that response, he is making a living figuring these things out and providing support. That said, it wouldn't be my response. Some of their other bikes appear to use Deda headsets so my guess would be either that or the headset cover that came with the handlebar if that was provided.
Before worrying about ordering new stuff, I would fully install everything with the proper preload and then evaluate the gap. Unfortunately i think 1-2mm is considered normal. In every bike forum catering to mainstream brands there is a thread about Treks and 2mm gaps that show expose the upper bearing. Even showed up on test bikes.
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I understand his position. He's not going to saw off the branch he's sitting on.
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I understand his position. He's not going to saw off the branch he's sitting on.
Hahahaha...yeah for sure but the person shopping factory direct isnt his customer
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Okay okay... A little spoiler.
But more really only after assembly.
Bottom bracket and wheels are still on the way :D
Have you also had this gap reported by some in the head tube (upper bearing and headset)? Thank you for your contribution. ;)
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Have you also had this gap reported by some in the head tube (upper bearing and headset)? Thank you for your contribution. ;)
It actually looks good on my bike and I don't have any gaps - and I haven't even finalized everything yet.
I have a different handlebar because the handlebar stem units didn't fit me in terms of dimensions, but that has nothing to do with the gap...
I have also assembled the bike so far and so far I am very satisfied.
I'm having my fork shortened by a friend in the next few days.
I'll probably be able to show you the finished build by the beginning of next week at the latest :-)
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It actually looks good on my bike and I don't have any gaps - and I haven't even finalized everything yet.
I have a different handlebar because the handlebar stem units didn't fit me in terms of dimensions, but that has nothing to do with the gap...
I have also assembled the bike so far and so far I am very satisfied.
I'm having my fork shortened by a friend in the next few days.
I'll probably be able to show you the finished build by the beginning of next week at the latest :-)
Just proves the fact that the issue lies with the spacers and washers Light Carbon provides with their handlebars
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The spacers don interact with how the bottom cup sits on the top bearing. I think the gap is caused by some incorrect assembly or the tube race is doing something funky in there.
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I had the opposite headset issue on my Yishun R086-D. Had to spend about 20 minutes sanding down the bottom edge of the plastic headset cover to prevent it from rubbing on the headtube. Apparently this is more common than I realized so it wasn't a big deal.
Looking ahead to 2024 I don't really have any new frames that really catch my interested to build/review. The LCR017-D is probably the only one at the moment (especially the lightweight version). However, I can't imagine it would ride significantly different than my Yishun R086-D
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@patilean1, I thought the LCR017-D was being positioned as a more "Endurance" oriented frame ... also, just looking at proportions and the configuration of the stays, etc., as well as the significantly lover bottom bracket, I'm guessing the '17 will be a more compliant/stable bike, but who knows! All told, I would love to see you review this one, so any additional motivation I can come up with, I will (valid or no! ;D)
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The spacers don interact with how the bottom cup sits on the top bearing. I think the gap is caused by some incorrect assembly or the tube race is doing something funky in there.
the last spacer covers the pass-thru washer and if the recessed portion isn't deep enough it will affect the gap even after it's assembled correctly
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the last spacer covers the pass-thru washer and if the recessed portion isn't deep enough it will affect the gap even after it's assembled correctly
If you have a reliable measuring device, perhaps you could ask WhityBlanc for the height of the cover, as well as the part that separates the cables?
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I think the easiest solution is to just file down the pass through washer so the gap is minimized.
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It actually looks good on my bike and I don't have any gaps - and I haven't even finalized everything yet.
I have a different handlebar because the handlebar stem units didn't fit me in terms of dimensions, but that has nothing to do with the gap...
I have also assembled the bike so far and so far I am very satisfied.
I'm having my fork shortened by a friend in the next few days.
I'll probably be able to show you the finished build by the beginning of next week at the latest :-)
@WhityWhite
-Have to ask about the "middle spacer with what seems to be cable guide into a ACR 55 headset" on the stem photo. What is that, a stem piece (which one?)
Thanx,
Chris
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@WhityWhite
-Have to ask about the "middle spacer with what seems to be cable guide into a ACR 55 headset" on the stem photo. What is that, a stem piece (which one?)
Thanx,
Chris
as the monocockpits unfortunately didn't fit me in terms of size, I asked for a separate stem. That's why I got this part.
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I've just finished the bike and don't want to withhold the first pictures from you. :D
If you like, I'll be happy to create a separate thread for the build, with decent pictures and what the riding impression is like.
As it's a pretty wet winter here at the moment and I'm working until dark, I won't be able to start the first test drive until next weekend at the earliest :'(
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I love the saddle to handlebar drop hehe ;D
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I've just finished the bike and don't want to withhold the first pictures from you. :D
If you like, I'll be happy to create a separate thread for the build, with decent pictures and what the riding impression is like.
As it's a pretty wet winter here at the moment and I'm working until dark, I won't be able to start the first test drive until next weekend at the earliest :'(
Wow...Nice! You must be dying to take it for a spin! What the weight for the bare wheels youre using?
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This is a really light build. Which version of the frame did you get?
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Wow...Nice! You must be dying to take it for a spin! What the weight for the bare wheels youre using?
Elite Edge 45 mm
1330 g
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This is a really light build. Which version of the frame did you get?
The Superlight Version
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The Superlight Version
This frame is designed to accommodate 32 tires. Can you confirm? THANKS
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Elite Edge 45 mm
1330 g
Thanks, The wheels I'm planning on using for this frame are about the same weight, so hopefully I'll be around the same ballpark total as your build is
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I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this frame after reading this thread. Communicated with Wendy, and she was very helpful in making some selections with regards to paint, handlebars, and options.
However, the lead time is quite long. I wasn't expecting shipping immediately, but she referenced a new mold being made, and shipping isn't estimated until March or end of March. I ordered end of December. Just a heads up to anyone considering.
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What size did you order?
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What size did you order?
52cm
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56 ordered 05.November
Wendy estimated the arrival around March
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Does anyone know if the stack of the Yishun R1058 is measured including or excluding the upper headset cover?
The spacer seems to be approx 1cm in height, so this influences stack quite a bit.
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Measurements are frame stack, not stem stack (some brands list one or the other without saying which and some list bofh). You'll need to factor in the headset cover and the cable guide that goes on top of that.
It is about 3cm in total. Can measure mine later on.
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Measurements are frame stack, not stem stack (some brands list one or the other without saying which and some list bofh). You'll need to factor in the headset cover and the cable guide that goes on top of that.
It is about 3cm in total. Can measure mine later on.
Thank you for the information, measurement of the minimum difference between frame and stack stem would be appreciated :D
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56 ordered 05.November
Wendy estimated the arrival around March
Yes, In about March, from Feb 6th -18th we will have a long holiday for chinese new year, and whokers maybe longer for that,
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Hi there,
I’m looking into this was frame as I need replacement for my Carbonda CFR 505, which got stolen. The CFR 505 was a size 57 (100mm stem, slammed). In general I liked the frame. However, it felt quite tall at the front. Even when I was down in the drops it felt quite upright. For my next frame I want something that is lower at the front and a bit more “racey”. I’m about 184cm, with an inseam of 87cm.
I’m considering the LCR017-D in size 54 with a 100mm stem as this would put me roughly in the same reach as the CFR 505 but lower at the front. What do you reckon, should I go with the 54 or 56 size?
Thanks and best regards
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I've just finished the bike and don't want to withhold the first pictures from you. :D
If you like, I'll be happy to create a separate thread for the build, with decent pictures and what the riding impression is like.
As it's a pretty wet winter here at the moment and I'm working until dark, I won't be able to start the first test drive until next weekend at the earliest :'(
Great build!
I saw that your frame is size 54. May I ask you how tall you are and whats your inseam (I’m trying to figure out which size to order)? Also, did you have the chance to test ride your rig and can comment on how aggressive it feels in terms of the size? Last question: What stemlength are you riding?
Thanks in advance and best regards
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I've just finished the bike and don't want to withhold the first pictures from you. :D
If you like, I'll be happy to create a separate thread for the build, with decent pictures and what the riding impression is like.
As it's a pretty wet winter here at the moment and I'm working until dark, I won't be able to start the first test drive until next weekend at the earliest :'(
Were grommets included for where the brake hoses exit the frame at the front fork and rear chain stay?
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Were grommets included for where the brake hoses exit the frame at the front fork and rear chain stay?
Yeah - everything was there :-)
A good experience in contrast to my ICAN A40.
These were missing there and I had to make something myself...
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Were grommets included for where the brake hoses exit the frame at the front fork and rear chain stay?
.
Can you post a close up pic of that area?
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Great build!
I saw that your frame is size 54. May I ask you how tall you are and whats your inseam (I’m trying to figure out which size to order)? Also, did you have the chance to test ride your rig and can comment on how aggressive it feels in terms of the size? Last question: What stemlength are you riding?
Thanks in advance and best regards
I am 1.83 m tall and have an inside leg length of 83 cm.
The frame size 54 fits well and is rather larger than expected. I had doubts at first that it might be too small. But that is not the case.
I didn't get a monocockpit as it wouldn't have been available in my size. With a 38 mm width, the stem was far too short.
And I didn't want to ride a truck steering wheel either...
so I opted for a separate stem and handlebars.
11 cm stem and 38 mm handlebars.
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.
Can you post a close up pic of that area?
oh sorry, I think I misread that.
There were no "grommets" for the brake hoses - but I don't think they're necessary.
There were grommets (I thought that's what you meant when you skimmed the post) for the cables and DI2 cables to the front derailleur/rear derailleur.
I can take photos of them when I get the chance.
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oh sorry, I think I misread that.
There were no "grommets" for the brake hoses - but I don't think they're necessary.
There were grommets (I thought that's what you meant when you skimmed the post) for the cables and DI2 cables to the front derailleur/rear derailleur.
I can take photos of them when I get the chance.
Thanks for the clarification. Won't the hoses rub through the paint eventually?⁶
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I'm going to replace my 10 year old velobuild vbr055 (mainly because I want to upgrade to wider tires, disc brakes and electronic shifting) with the LCR017D.
But im figuring out the frame size. Im 1,83 with 84cm inseam. I currently ride a 56 with 10cm stem but I always felt like I was overstretching a bit when riding in the hoods since im not the most flexible person. the geometry of my current frame and the LCR017 seem to be very similar. So im contemplating to get the 54 frame or a 56 with 90mm stem
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It's best you compare them in one of the online geometry comparing sites...
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I am 1.83 m tall and have an inside leg length of 83 cm.
The frame size 54 fits well and is rather larger than expected. I had doubts at first that it might be too small. But that is not the case.
I didn't get a monocockpit as it wouldn't have been available in my size. With a 38 mm width, the stem was far too short.
And I didn't want to ride a truck steering wheel either...
so I opted for a separate stem and handlebars.
11 cm stem and 38 mm handlebars.
What saddle post did you chose? I got the option for a 0 offset or 20mm offset post
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Oke, i made up my mind
I'm about to splurge on a 56 LCR017-D A-model (superlight) and also the lightcarbon 50MM rims with DTswiss 240 exp hubs.
Now i need to make up my mind on other bits and bobs but i think i will settle for the Ultegra DI2 group
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Here are a few pictures.
I weighed the frame and fork on the kitchen scales ;-)
Frame: 911 g
Fork (uncut): 436 g
I think these are outstanding values. Especially as the whole thing has been painted.
Also attached are the desired detailed pictures.
https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4309.0;attach=18794;image
How did you calipers align? Seems that the facing of the mounting areas on the rear chain stay and front fork is nil.
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What saddle post did you chose? I got the option for a 0 offset or 20mm offset post
Unfortunately, I only had the option of a 20 mm offset at the time
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https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4309.0;attach=18794;image
How did you calipers align? Seems that the facing of the mounting areas on the rear chain stay and front fork is nil.
that went quite normally and without any problems
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I've been having an issue with getting both the front and rear calipers to align. Seems that they weren't faced properly. .
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Unfortunately, I only had the option of a 20 mm offset at the time
would you have like the 0 offset? how does your bike ride and how is the fitting?
i have the same length and inseam as you, and since the reach of my current 56 always felt slightly to long i think i will go for a 54 with 100mm stem (vs 56 with 100 now)
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At first I had the feeling that I was sitting too stretched out and I moved the saddle completely forward.
Somehow everything seemed longer than I thought...
In the meantime I have moved the saddle back a bit and feel very comfortable in my current position.
I was initially thinking about ordering a 10 cm stem - but I have now discarded that idea.
The bike is really fun, especially on undulating / hilly or mountainous courses.
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Am I late, or did LC finally and officially offer up the LCR017-D on their website now?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-super-light-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p240.html
This frame is still in my radar but I'd have to donor everything off my Yishun R086-D frameset. While I don't absolutely love the look of the R086-D, I can't imagine the riding dynamics are significantly different from the LCR017-D. Then again, super light version and custom paint are enticing. And obviously I already have compatible handlebars, stem, and headset bearings.
EDIT: Also comes with threaded T47 versus BB86 pressfit. Such a well proportioned looking frame.
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Am I late, or did LC finally and officially offer up the LCR017-D on their website now?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-super-light-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p240.html
This frame is still in my radar but I'd have to donor everything off my Yishun R086-D frameset. While I don't absolutely love the look of the R086-D, I can't imagine the riding dynamics are significantly different from the LCR017-D. Then again, super light version and custom paint are enticing. And obviously I already have compatible handlebars, stem, and headset bearings.
EDIT: Also comes with threaded T47 versus BB86 pressfit. Such a well proportioned looking frame.
Hey,
first I didn´t found it but the sales send me this link
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-super-light-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p240.html (https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-super-light-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p240.html)
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Finally catching up to this thread. Between this bike and other new bikes (like the TFSA options), I gotta say chinertown has really been spoiled with low-cost low-weight semi-aero bike options lately. ;D
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At first I had the feeling that I was sitting too stretched out and I moved the saddle completely forward.
Somehow everything seemed longer than I thought...
In the meantime I have moved the saddle back a bit and feel very comfortable in my current position.
I was initially thinking about ordering a 10 cm stem - but I have now discarded that idea.
The bike is really fun, especially on undulating / hilly or mountainous courses.
from the picture it did seem like you have a big drop, that is holding me from ordering. Im getting closer to 40 and was never really flexible to begin with :P
Just wired the money for a 56 frame with 90*420mm handlebar/stem will take prob 2 months until it arrives
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from the picture it did seem like you have a big drop, that is holding me from ordering. Im getting closer to 40 and was never really flexible to begin with :P
Yes same on my side about the LCR017-D. The weight is super interesting but the Geo is a little bit to aggressive.
The R1058-D looks more relaxed but the SL Version is still not available...
Standard is to heavy with 1050g for frame if you want to build a up a bike for events with a lot of climbing and a long time in the saddle.
Anybody other proposals?
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Yes same on my side about the LCR017-D. The weight is super interesting but the Geo is a little bit to aggressive.
The R1058-D looks more relaxed but the SL Version is still not available...
Standard is to heavy with 1050g for frame if you want to build a up a bike for events with a lot of climbing and a long time in the saddle.
Anybody other proposals?
New member here - I also have the same dilemma, and will share my thoughts.
First, these are my filters/criteria:
- I live in a hilly area, so I’d like to have an all-arounder, ideally with frame weight below 1000g
- Somewhat aero, but I’ll be building up the bike with 40-45mm wheels which will speak more to aero advantages
- I don’t race anymore but I still do fast group rides, so I’m looking for a frame with somewhat forgiving geometry – not quite upright like the Endurace but also not a crit bike
- 32mm tire clearance
- Under US$1000 (which rules out Yoeleo, Winspeed, Seka, etc.)
The 017 hits most of these notes, and Lightcarbon also do pretty decent custom frame painting and decals. But like you guys, I’m a bit hesitant about the long-ish reach. The stack/reach ratio for a 52cm frame comes to 1.33, which I’ll use as the basis for comparison.
Some of the others I’ve been looking at include:
Velobuild 177 (https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2023-vb-r-177-super-light-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-hidden-cables): this is marketed as an endurance frame, but the geometry is similar to the LC017, with similar reach but lower stack. The stack/reach ratio is 1.38, slightly more relaxed than the LC017. Some of the pluses of the 177 are, for me: T1000 carbon, standard 27.2 seat post, available with both zero and offset seat post, Velobuild does custom painting, the frame is US$500, but … Velobuild seems to be more hit and miss in terms of quality, which worries me because I’m a first time bike builder.
Velobuild 268 (https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables): geometry is very close to the VB177 and LC017, with a stack/reach ratio of 1.35. The biggest pluses of the 268 are, for me: it’s a newer frame, so hopefully some of the known issues around the VB168 and VB177 have been addressed. But, it’s too early to say (anxiously waiting for @patliean1’s review!), I'm not sold on the weird Mavic through axles, and it’s slightly heavier at 1000g.
Workswell 316 (https://www.workswellbikes.com/endurance/wcb-r-316-disc-brake.html): this, too, is marketed as an endurance frame, but again, the geometry is similar to the LC017 and the VB177, with a slightly shorter reach and slightly longer stack. The stack/reach ratio is 1.38. The pluses of the 316 are, for me: mix of T800 and T1000 carbon, the light version of the frame is 950g, and I was quoted US$890 for the frame. On the other hand, Workswell does not do custom painting, and there is less info/reviews for Workswell and specifically for this frame.
Some other frames I’ve looked at include the Longteng 268D (https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/21.html) with 1.40 stack/reach ratio, but slightly over 1000g, and the Longteng 266 (https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/211.html) with 1.37 stack/reach ratio - but Longteng has been slow to respond after several attempts to reach them. And the Workswell 366 (https://www.workswellbikes.com/endurance/wcb-r-366(disc-brake).html), with 1.39 stack/reach ratio, $800, but 1130g, and as mentioned above, Workswell doesn’t do custom painting.
I’m sure you guys have looked at some of these options as well, and maybe like me have thought deep into the night about which frame is the most suitable. I’m a new member here but really enjoy the community and the spirit of sharing here – would love to hear some thoughts and if there are other options to consider!
[Edited to add LT266]
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Am I right, that you didn't consider the mandatory spacer? It's like the difference between specialized's SL6 and SL7/8. On paper the frames are more aggressive. But if you take the mandatory spacer into account, they are the same. So you have to add so m up the stack füre these frames!
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Some other frames I’ve looked at include the Longteng 268D (https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/21.html) with 1.40 stack/reach ratio, but slightly over 1000g, and the Longteng 266 (https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/211.html) with 1.37 stack/reach ratio - but Longteng has been slow to respond after several attempts to reach them. And the Workswell 366 (https://www.workswellbikes.com/endurance/wcb-r-366(disc-brake).html), with 1.39 stack/reach ratio, $800, but 1130g, and as mentioned above, Workswell doesn’t do custom painting.
[Edited to add LT266]
On Long Teng. Contact longtengalisa@163.com. I only have good things to say about the 268, i bought 2. full build with 32C 50+mm deep wheels is 7.5kg. The next frame i get is likely to be a 266 (for the mountains).
So get a 266 and let me know how it is :)
The gloss finish is awesome, depending on the light you can see the carbon below. The black matte is nice, but the gloss is super nice.
i got 36cm bars from Airwolf, love them. Uber stiff. Allegedly full T1100.
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On Long Teng. Contact longtengalisa@163.com. I only have good things to say about the 268, i bought 2. full build with 32C 50+mm deep wheels is 7.5kg. The next frame i get is likely to be a 266 (for the mountains).
So get a 266 and let me know how it is :)
The gloss finish is awesome, depending on the light you can see the carbon below. The black matte is nice, but the gloss is super nice.
i got 36cm bars from Airwolf, love them. Uber stiff. Allegedly full T1100.
looks good!
I ended up ordering the 56, the geometry is very similar to my current frame. but I ordered a smaller handle bar (46 to 42) and a shorter stem which should both ease the position.
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New member here - I also have the same dilemma, and will share my thoughts.
[Edited to add LT266]
When i see all the flat sections on the 017-d i doubt this frame is having good aero performance.
Down tube, seat tube and seat post are totally flat right in the airflow...
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/202402/27/0f8ad148d94858367c7ceb036a0c713f_medium.jpg)
About the reach/stack you must take account that frames need special spacer to ensure cable routing, thus you can add at least 1,5cm to 2 cm for real stack and 1cm less for reach.
About workswell, they are not selling a lot for single customers.
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When i see all the flat sections on the 017-d i doubt this frame is having good aero performance.
Down tube, seat tube and seat post are totally flat right in the airflow...
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/202402/27/0f8ad148d94858367c7ceb036a0c713f_medium.jpg)
About the reach/stack you must take account that frames need special spacer to ensure cable routing, thus you can add at least 1,5cm to 2 cm for real stack and 1cm less for reach.
About workswell, they are not selling a lot for single customers.
Yeah the down tube is as aerodynamic as a bus. The could have easily rounded that leading edge without sacrificing strength while probably reducing weight.
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Your all aero experts now? ;D
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Your all aero experts now? ;D
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Your all aero experts now? ;D
My what?
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When i see all the flat sections on the 017-d i doubt this frame is having good aero performance.
Down tube, seat tube and seat post are totally flat right in the airflow...
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/202402/27/0f8ad148d94858367c7ceb036a0c713f_medium.jpg)
About the reach/stack you must take account that frames need special spacer to ensure cable routing, thus you can add at least 1,5cm to 2 cm for real stack and 1cm less for reach.
About workswell, they are not selling a lot for single customers.
Haha yeah I get that, but hey you can't expect the moon for a $600 frame I guess ;D
FYI I contacted Workswell and they are willing to sell me a single frame, including the 316 and 366!
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Haha yeah I get that, but hey you can't expect the moon for a $600 frame I guess ;D
FYI I contacted Workswell and they are willing to sell me a single frame, including the 316 and 366!
Me too.
I asked Workswell for the 306. But at the moment the interesting SL Version is not available.
Is from 316 and 366 a SL Version available?
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Your all aero experts now? ;D
Who need to be to see that such a shape is not made for claiming aero performance.
Moreover is it hard to compare to the best frames in the market these days?
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Me too.
I asked Workswell for the 306. But at the moment the interesting SL Version is not available.
Is from 316 and 366 a SL Version available?
From my emails with them, they offered these in size 52:
- 366 at 1130g, US$620 for frame and fork only (seat post is extra but it's standard 27.2)
- 316 light at 950g, US$890 for frame, fork, seat post
- 316 standard at 1100g, I didn't get a price because I wasn't interested in this frame
It just so happens that the Taipei Bike Show is happening this weekend, and I will go check it out. I know Longteng has a booth, and likely other Chinese OEMs as well. I'll report back on anything interesting. (Let me know if anyone has any specific requests or questions in my DMs ... but I won't take requests for Hambini hairdresser pics, sorry....)
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I am wondering if any manufacturers will start to make bike with endurance geometry but race/aero design, something like Pinarello X1.
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From my emails with them, they offered these in size 52:
- 366 at 1130g, US$620 for frame and fork only (seat post is extra but it's standard 27.2)
- 316 light at 950g, US$890 for frame, fork, seat post
- 316 standard at 1100g, I didn't get a price because I wasn't interested in this frame
It just so happens that the Taipei Bike Show is happening this weekend, and I will go check it out. I know Longteng has a booth, and likely other Chinese OEMs as well. I'll report back on anything interesting. (Let me know if anyone has any specific requests or questions in my DMs ... but I won't take requests for Hambini hairdresser pics, sorry....)
I'm interested in anything Long Teng related. I'm super happy with mine, more than the 2 Winow i built at the same time. I like that they're a factory and not a broker like velobuild. My next bike will probably be a 266, so anything that's road, light, disc, and takes 32C, i'm interested in. And ask them to make 36cm bars so I dont have to source them separately :)
On Workswell, i'd be careful. There are a few horror stories on the forum about them, and they're materially more expensive than a lot of peers, but i can't understand why.
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It just so happens that the Taipei Bike Show is happening this weekend, and I will go check it out. I know Longteng has a booth, and likely other Chinese OEMs as well. I'll report back on anything interesting. (Let me know if anyone has any specific requests or questions in my DMs ... but I won't take requests for Hambini hairdresser pics, sorry....)
Just got back from the Taipei Bike Show – today was B2B and not open to the public, sh*t!. I was dying to get in, so I ran down the street to the 7/11 and printed out a bogus business card and got in lol…
Of the Chinese open mold manufacturers, I only saw LightCarbon and Longteng. Velobuild didn’t attend. (And I didn’t see a presence from other Chinertown favorites like Elitewheels, Ltwoo, Winspace, Magene, etc.) But I did get to see the LC017 and the LT266 in person, and got some intel on a new LT301 that will be released in a few months:
LC017: yes the downtube is quite boxy, but in person it looks/feels a bit more rounded than what’s on their website. And the seat tube is rounded, not at all like the seat tube shown on their website. Here is a video that I took: https://imgur.com/a/PNHdhI5. It’s a niiiiice looking frame.
Interestingly, I saw several high-end bikes at the show with similarly boxy down tubes with sharp edges, including the Giant TCR, a Bianchi, a Bianchi Raparto Corse, and a Java Volata that won a gold award at the show: https://imgur.com/a/NEb8cpZ. I talked to one of the bike designers and asked them about the design choice, and he said that they use less materials to keep the bike light weight, and squares are stronger than curved shapes. In other words, for an all-arounder, they sacrificed certain aero gains in favor of weight savings. I’m not engineer so I have no idea if this is true, I’m just relaying what one of the bike designers at the show said to me.
LT266: from my amateur eyes, this looks like a really well-made frame. Alisa from Longteng was at the show, and she told me that it’s made from a one piece monocoque mold, so they can achieve a higher degree of uniformity and quality control. The tubes are more rounded than the LC017. Interestingly, she told me that they are testing an unannounced frame, the LT301, I’m posting the geometry and a short video here: https://imgur.com/a/XvH327j. It looks to have a more aero profile than the LT266 and LC017 but still weighs under 1000g. Alisa said they just finished testing the 54cm frame, and are going through tests for the other sizes – it will be a few months before they start selling it, although if anyone wants a 54, it’s available if you contact Alisa directly. (OT: I asked which brands Longteng acts as OEM for, the only thing I could get out of Alisa was that they make a few frames for Argon.)
Does this help with my bike choice? I probably will go with one of these and not the Velobuild frames, since I’ve seen and touched them in person. Between the LC017 and LT266? I have no idea….
That’s all I have, cheers.
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Of the Chinese open mold manufacturers, I only saw LightCarbon and Longteng. Velobuild didn’t attend. (And I didn’t see a presence from other Chinertown favorites like Elitewheels, Ltwoo, Winspace, Magene, etc.) But I did get to see the LC017 and the LT266 in person, and got some intel on a new LT301 that will be released in a few months:
Nice one dude!! Especially finding a way to enter lol
Maybe create a new topic about the bike show as a whole, to share all your photos/videos and prompt discussion on different models? Since this one is focused on LCR017 but it seems you got info on dif frames like the 301 to be launched.
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Just got back from the Taipei Bike Show
You're a hero. Well done and thank you. Alisa is my sales rep at LT. That LT301 looks a LOT like the LT268 that I have, to the point that beyond the frame box, i'm not sure what's different. Weight i guess? Maybe manufacturing process?
The whole "squares are stronger than tubes" sounds wrong. And those boxy tubes look like buses, and buses aren't aerodynamic. Weird. Aero frames always were about tear drop shapes with the tail cut out. Not a box exposed to the wind...
Velobuild is a broker. Light Carbon & Long Teng are factories.
Awesome to learn that LT makes Argon frames, that just upped my bragging rights.
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You're a hero. Well done and thank you. Alisa is my sales rep at LT. That LT301 looks a LOT like the LT268 that I have, to the point that beyond the frame box, i'm not sure what's different. Weight i guess? Maybe manufacturing process?
The whole "squares are stronger than tubes" sounds wrong. And those boxy tubes look like buses, and buses aren't aerodynamic. Weird. Aero frames always were about tear drop shapes with the tail cut out. Not a box exposed to the wind...
Velobuild is a broker. Light Carbon & Long Teng are factories.
Awesome to learn that LT makes Argon frames, that just upped my bragging rights.
the tube is under an angle and there is a wheel infront of it. So while its certainly not aero optimised I think the penalty will be minimal, certainly if your not a pro
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Unless the bike is dedicated aero bike, square-ish down tube is fine. Cannondale SuperSix Evo 4 has square downtube as well, yet with Cannondale's own 50mm wheels and 2 piece handlebar it is on par or better with quite a few dedicated aero bikes.
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Unless the bike is dedicated aero bike, square-ish down tube is fine. Cannondale SuperSix Evo 4 has square downtube as well, yet with Cannondale's own 50mm wheels and 2 piece handlebar it is on par or better with quite a few dedicated aero bikes.
The downtube on the supersix evo4 is nowhere near as wide or square as the one on the LC-17. The front facing leading edge of the cannondale supersix evo 4 is rounded and narrower than the backside of the downtube which is squared off which is the opposite of the LC17. It baffles the mind why the lc17 was designed that way.
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/202402/27/0f8ad148d94858367c7ceb036a0c713f_medium.jpg)
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it's more inline with the Merida scultura (endurance) and the previous model of the factor O2 VAM.
(https://www.theproscloset.com/cdn/shop/files/FRD13110_PH3_1_3000x2000.jpg)
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I emailed LC last night regarding the super light version in size 56. They replied within 3 hours, which was a welcomed surprise. The sales rep was polite, detailed, and it was obvious she was well-informed. All the molds for each frame size are finished, however current production time for a size 56 is one month.
I'm not sure whether or not LC and I will be collaborating as far as video content goes, but the price and initial customer service experience is enough to make me wanna purchase a frameset regardless.
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I emailed LC last night regarding the super light version in size 56. They replied within 3 hours, which was a welcomed surprise. The sales rep was polite, detailed, and it was obvious she was well-informed. All the molds for each frame size are finished, however current production time for a size 56 is one month.
I'm not sure whether or not LC and I will be collaborating as far as video content goes, but the price and initial customer service experience is enough to make me wanna purchase a frameset regardless.
I had the same experience with them I dealt with Wendy. Very helpful and patience selecting the parts. I ordered a 56 2 weeks ago. She said back then 54 was also available
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Please tell me about the superlight version of lt too, I'm in the market for a new bike
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Hello everyone,
a short update on my experiences with the LCR017-D in combination with the Elite Edge 45 mm.
I have just returned from my 1-week training camp in Mallorca and after almost 1,000 km and thousands of meters of altitude, I am more than happy to have built this bike.
It just feels right and is a true all-rounder.
At the front in the wind in the group on the flat - up the mountains - down the mountains. There is nothing to complain about.
Here are a few pictures from Mallorca.
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Ok very nice. How wide are the tires ?
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28mm GP5000 STR
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Hello everyone,
a short update on my experiences with the LCR017-D in combination with the Elite Edge 45 mm.
I have just returned from my 1-week training camp in Mallorca and after almost 1,000 km and thousands of meters of altitude, I am more than happy to have built this bike.
It just feels right and is a true all-rounder.
At the front in the wind in the group on the flat - up the mountains - down the mountains. There is nothing to complain about.
Here are a few pictures from Mallorca.
Looking good...any issues in the 1,000km shakedown ride?
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Looking good...any issues in the 1,000km shakedown ride?
really nothing.
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I also ordered a frame in 56cm and a carbon spoked, ceramic bearing, ratchet freehub wheelset (C67DB) from them. Wheelset including shipping and Paypal fees was around 700 USD, which is quite cheap for what they offer. I will report when I received the parts. Looks like the rims are also provided to a company called „Laminar“:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/butterfly-weave-road-disc-carbon-clincher-rims-28mm-width_p237.html
https://laminarproducts.com/products/laminar-40mm-team-edition
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I also ordered a frame in 56cm and a carbon spoked, ceramic bearing, ratchet freehub wheelset (C67DB) from them. Wheelset including shipping and Paypal fees was around 700 USD, which is quite cheap for what they offer. I will report when I received the parts. Looks like the rims are also provided to a company called „Laminar“:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/butterfly-weave-road-disc-carbon-clincher-rims-28mm-width_p237.html
https://laminarproducts.com/products/laminar-40mm-team-edition
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What makes you say that there provided to a company called laminar? I thought that the rims were made by Pro-X
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What makes you say that there provided to a company called laminar? I thought that the rims were made by Pro-X
Provided to, not provided from brother
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Exactly looks like Laminar sources their rims from Lightcarbon/ProX.
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Any news from users on this frame?
I'm probably going to get one myself.
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I ordered back in December. Its ship date has been pushed back 2 times now. I hope they are planning on building some stock, because waiting this long is brutal.
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I ordered back in December. Its ship date has been pushed back 2 times now. I hope they are planning on building some stock, because waiting this long is brutal.
What size? I think for Medium it's pretty easy to get one.
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52
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I ordered back in December. Its ship date has been pushed back 2 times now. I hope they are planning on building some stock, because waiting this long is brutal.
Oh, hurts me to hear that. I also ordered a frame in size 54 with custom painting and a wheel set.
Wendy told me that it will take 20-30 days for both until shipping.
I really hope that they don't take much longer.
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That comes with buying a frame direct from manufacturer. If you get your frame on time, they either have it in stock or you got lucky. If it is delayed when it's being manufactured, that's normal.
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That comes with buying a frame direct from manufacturer. If you get your frame on time, they either have it in stock or you got lucky. If it is delayed when it's being manufactured, that's normal.
Difference is that when somebody gives you an estimated delivery date because they just want to sell you a frame, it's not cool.
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Difference is that when somebody gives you an estimated delivery date because they just want to sell you a frame, it's not cool.
Yeah I know, I agree mate. Just saying it's the unfortunate reality and it's a bit shit.
Unfortunately you gotta go into the purchase with the crappy expectation that your frame will be delayed if it's part of a production run, and delayed even more if it needs paint.
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Yeah I know, I agree mate. Just saying it's the unfortunate reality and it's a bit shit.
Unfortunately you gotta go into the purchase with the crappy expectation that your frame will be delayed if it's part of a production run, and delayed even more if it needs paint.
Problem multiplies when the customer gets antsie and the manufacturer starts to cut corners to get the product out the door.
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Problem multiplies when the customer gets antsie and the manufacturer starts to cut corners to get the product out the door.
Yeah that would suck.
My personal experience with the bigger manufacturers is they just dgaf. My frame has only ever been a blip in a huge production run of that frame in that size, so they just delay as long as they want/need. I'm not a priority, but the company ordering by the container load is. For me it's fine because I just expect that, but I get why others would be mega annoyed.
Thankfully it all comes good in the end.
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A couple of hiccups but Wendy from LC was able to remedy the issues.
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Great looking Bike!
How do you like it thus far? I see, that you got the C67DB (?) wheelset. The pattern looks very subtle, I like it. The hicups were nothing major I suppose?
Best regards
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A couple of hiccups but Wendy from LC was able to remedy the issues.
Looks awesome man, love that purple.
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Great looking Bike!
How do you like it thus far? I see, that you got the C67DB (?) wheelset. The pattern looks very subtle, I like it. The hicups were nothing major I suppose?
Best regards
The major issue is that they primed the whole frame in a white base coat that should've only been applied below the purple. So any chips or scratches are immediately more visible now plus the fact there's no clear coat doesn't help. It couldve been closer to perfect if they hadnt fkd up the paint and cheaped out on not clear coating it.
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Nice build, thanks for posting!
Other than the paint, anything to report on? Holes that aren't round, tolerances that are off, brake mount surfaces that aren't flat, inside of the frame that looks crap, any of that at all?
Very helpful video btw. How boxy is that downtube in real life? depending on the video, it can look like the least aero shape one could come up with, but other times, it's not even noticeable.
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Nice build, thanks for posting!
Other than the paint, anything to report on? Holes that aren't round, tolerances that are off, brake mount surfaces that aren't flat, inside of the frame that looks crap, any of that at all?
Very helpful video btw. How boxy is that downtube in real life? depending on the video, it can look like the least aero shape one could come up with, but other times, it's not even noticeable.
The front and rear caliper mounts could've been faced to help with alignment. The rear cutout for the derailleur hanger was a bit wonky and needed a little persuading to help it align to prevent it from binding up the axle when the set screw was tightened. I choose black to specifically camouflage the overly boxy down tube. Other than that the bikes been a dream to ride the first 400 miles thus far.
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It's great to see that support was nice at least :)
I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those too though geometry seems a tad too aggressive. Now just wondering if I should pair it with 45mm or 50mm wheels ahahah
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Nice build, thanks for posting!
Other than the paint, anything to report on? Holes that aren't round, tolerances that are off, brake mount surfaces that aren't flat, inside of the frame that looks crap, any of that at all?
Very helpful video btw. How boxy is that downtube in real life? depending on the video, it can look like the least aero shape one could come up with, but other times, it's not even noticeable.
Not this frame, but for a yishun build I recently did:
The the front caliper mounts were ever so slightly off. Doesn't help that I'm yet to get a set of shimano rotors that aren't warped out of the box.
The rear caliper mounts didn't look super clean but were actually perfectly aligned.
The bb was slightly undersized 0.02mm, which doesn't sound like a big deal until I realised it takes about 30min to remove 0.01mm, so yeah multiply that by 4 and it's a pita. Might not have mattered if I didn't used a shitter bb that didn't require such a precise fit.
BB mating surface was faced under the paint, which is fine under their matte black finish, but I reckon would present gaps if it had paint and clear coat over the top.
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It's great to see that support was nice at least :)
I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those too though geometry seems a tad too aggressive. Now just wondering if I should pair it with 45mm or 50mm wheels ahahah
If it's too aggressive, you can look into a yishun r068d, which is what I ended up doing for a build. It's a good frame.
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It's great to see that support was nice at least :)
I'm about to pull the trigger on one of those too though geometry seems a tad too aggressive. Now just wondering if I should pair it with 45mm or 50mm wheels ahahah
I couldn't decide either so I got a 55 in the rear and a 45 in the front!
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If it's too aggressive, you can look into a yishun r068d, which is what I ended up doing for a build. It's a good frame.
Thanks! I think one more spacer and it's OK!
As for Yishun I have contacted several factories and sellers to "feel" them. Yishun was polite correct, but the fact they didn't want to paint a frame and another minor aspect were enough for me to put them aside at this stage.
I couldn't decide either so I got a 55 in the rear and a 45 in the front!
ahaha
I honestly think there is no difference both in weight and in aero gains (and I really don't care much about this as I don't race). Just more worried if there is actually any look diference or not :D
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ahaha
I honestly think there is no difference both in weight and in aero gains (and I really don't care much about this as I don't race). Just more worried if there is actually any look diference or not :D
If I could do it again I would have gotten both 55s , front and rear
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If I could do it again I would have gotten both 55s , front and rear
Howcome?
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Howcome?
Looks.
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Looks.
Fair.
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The major issue is that they primed the whole frame in a white base coat that should've only been applied below the purple. So any chips or scratches are immediately more visible now plus the fact there's no clear coat doesn't help. It couldve been closer to perfect if they hadnt fkd up the paint and cheaped out on not clear coating it.
Thanks for posting your experience. Much appreciated.
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Hopefully LC will do better when it comes to painting frames by upping their QC protocol.
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Finalizing my order as we speak. Custom painted 58cm ultralight. Carol and Lightcarbon have been super-responsive and helpful, especially since this is the first time I've done custom graphics for something like a bike frame. Will definitely be reporting back as the process completes! Very much looking forward to receiving it and building it up!
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Finalizing my order as we speak. Custom painted 58cm ultralight. Carol and Lightcarbon have been super-responsive and helpful, especially since this is the first time I've done custom graphics for something like a bike frame. Will definitely be reporting back as the process completes! Very much looking forward to receiving it and building it up!
Damn it! It was you who took the last frame hehehe. I was going to order it but was informed someone took it now :D
They said 2 months of waiting time now + 1 of painting + delivery time. I am now looking for alternatives
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Oh, wow! Glad I got in under the wire! Had been talking to them for a bit, then got a little gun-shy pulling the trigger!
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Yeap. I was talking with her for a while too.
We had everything agreed and I told her as well that I could not make the payment before 15 because my accountant would not allow it. But then she told me it was not anymore in stock.
She proposed the 56, but it's stack is too low for me.
Now I'm back to square 0. Anyway hope u enjoy it
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I would love to understand better how these companies work as businesses. How many frames can they get out of that 17-D mold in that size per day? I assume they only have one mold per size. And so, with curing time and all, what's the ratio of mold to employee you need to have a sustainable business? When they say the 58 wont be in stock again for 2 months must mean that they got a large OEM order in 58, right?
Am very curious.
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I think a lot must have to do with factory capacity. I don’t know the scale of light carbon but they seem to do batches of the same model/size/tier. I’m guessing they have a team trained in a model and they do 1 model/size/tier at the same time in a batch then move on to complete some sort of rotation every couple months.
Anyone more familiar with the industry (I.e., with any experience with it whatsoever! :P) have any insight?
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I am no expert either but I guess this comes together with demands...
Whoever pays more, gets it faster. If someone orders 100 frames that person also agrees on a timeline. If they don't deliver, there are penalties.
As for the capacity it's on their website ;). 180 workers in our carbon rim factory, and about 150 workers in our carbon frame factory
Able to produce:
- carbon frame ---> 2000 sets/month
- carbon fork ---> 3500 pcs/month
- carbon rim ---> 5000 pcs/month
- carbon wheel ---> 1200 pairs/month
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they got a large OEM order in 58, right?
After talking with Yishun when they delivered one of my frames, my understanding is that they do everything in batches of frames and sizes. The oem and individual orders all get put into the same batch then divided up one all are complete and the biggest orders get priority over smaller ones in terms of overall turnaround. Then they go off to paint. So if you order a frame that's not in stock and needs painting and you're an individual order, you get to be at the back of 2 queues. Like me because I got one of the yishun frames painted.
I'm sure there is more to it.
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I wonder how many frames total light carbon has sold to date of the LC 17.
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28mm GP5000 STR
Can you fit 30mm or 32 in it?
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LC website states 32mm max width
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Looking for feedback from persons owning LCR017-D (light version), how does it ride? Is it stiff? Any regrets re the purchase and if yes why?
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LC website states 32mm max width
My question is when you have a rim for example with 28mm external 32 will still fit. I guess so, but would like just to get an input from someone with it
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The rims with an outer width of 28mm can usually be installed with tires 28C-45C.
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Got roasted for opening a new thread regarding this frame. Moving the info here
I've placed an order today for a size 54 with a custom design in 2 colours.
(https://i.ibb.co/R2J0BQ4/invoice.png) (https://ibb.co/cJsFC2X)
Final build will be 105 Di2 groupset. Elitewheels Flow 50 mm wheels with GP Contis 32mm.
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What is the BB shell width on the LCR017-D yet, is it T47 or T47i?
T47 width 68mm, have two version, 68-24 for shimano and 68-30 for sram
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This is from a previous post in this thread of a painted frame which looks to have a too large of a gap between the top tube and the spacer. I believe that the spacer or the pass through washer should be adjusted accordingly
There were some mistakes during installation. There are two mounts on the back of the bottom cover. The mounts need to be snapped into the grooves on the built-in C-ring!
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What makes you say that there provided to a company called laminar? I thought that the rims were made by Pro-X
PX Company is the wheelset subsidiary of LC Company, so if you send an email to one of the companies first, and then send an email to the other company the next day, you will receive a reply from the same salesperson! But it needs to be separated by one day, because the email system will be synchronized the next day!
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Got roasted for opening a new thread regarding this frame. Moving the info here
Don't worry, the guy who made the comment often sounds like a dick. I don't mind either way if you post on that thread or as a standalone one, I doubt I'm an outlier, as a detailed thread can be helpful.
Anyhow. Looking forward to seeing your build! What kind of lead time have they announced?
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Got roasted for opening a new thread regarding this frame. Moving the info here
I've placed an order today for a size 54 with a custom design in 2 colours.
Final build will be 105 Di2 groupset. Elitewheels Flow 50 mm wheels with GP Contis 32mm.
you've got a better price than I was given... I was said 590 because it was on sale...
How long do they estimate to deliver?
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Been eyeing it also, they told me they can ship a size 52 (LCR017-) in 2 days after I placed my order. However they reminded me they only have a limited supply on hand. Really not into getting frames painted, the naked color I have found works, especially since it helps me to hide new purchases from my wife. Really would like to see feedback from others who have made the purchase regarding the ride feel, especially how it compares to known brands
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you've got a better price than I was given... I was said 590 because it was on sale...
How long do they estimate to deliver?
I believe you were quoted the Super Light one ... IIRC, standard is $530, Super Light is $590.
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I believe you were quoted the Super Light one ... IIRC, standard is $530, Super Light is $590.
Maybe... really dunno. Yet again ur price was none of those ahah Maybe because it was a 58 it was more expensive kakakak
Your colour mix looks nice. Good luck on the build
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you've got a better price than I was given... I was said 590 because it was on sale...
How long do they estimate to deliver?
It will take a very long time. I quote Carol from LC: "the lead time is around 30~40 days for manufacturing."
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I believe you were quoted the Super Light one ... IIRC, standard is $530, Super Light is $590.
Super light version standard EXW price is USD$590, now special price in USD$550 with one hanger (carol made a mistake. An extra hanger costs $10 more.), normal weight version USD$490; normally we suggest the buyer get two hangers, so cost is higher USD$10/set,
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Super light version standard EXW price is USD$590, now special price in USD$550 with one hanger (carol made a mistake. An extra hanger costs $10 more.), normal weight version USD$490; normally we suggest the buyer get two hangers, so cost is higher USD$10/set,
Thanks for the clarification. Indeed I was quoted the old amount.
Any idea if there is also a promotion on the gravel frames and it's price? On standard version?
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Hello everyone, I am a long time lurker of the forum.
I just received the LCR0017 and this is my first carbon frame.
The package was in excellent condition and the paint is realy good.
However, I am asking for advice as I am wondering if there is a crack on the downtube.
Indeed, there is a place where I see a small crack in the paint, and when I lightly press it with my finger it makes a scary cracky sound.
See on the video (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/O2SybUxEs6I), I really press lightly and it is the only place on the frame where there is this sound.
I find it weird cause the frame is straight out of the box, I have just put wheels on it.
I have no experience with carbon frame and I don't know if it is just the paint layer or a crack on the carbon itself.
I send an email to lightcarbon and I am waiting for their answer but I want to have other opinions
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Yeah...that's definitely an issue with more than just the paint. Crazy if the shipping box wasn't damaged and LC sent it out like that.
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youp, I agree. Issue with carbon
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Hello everyone, I am a long time lurker of the forum.
I just received the LCR0017 and this is my first carbon frame.
The package was in excellent condition and the paint is realy good.
However, I am asking for advice as I am wondering if there is a crack on the downtube.
Indeed, there is a place where I see a small crack in the paint, and when I lightly press it with my finger it makes a scary cracky sound.
See on the video (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/O2SybUxEs6I), I really press lightly and it is the only place on the frame where there is this sound.
I find it weird cause the frame is straight out of the box, I have just put wheels on it.
I have no experience with carbon frame and I don't know if it is just the paint layer or a crack on the carbon itself.
I send an email to lightcarbon and I am waiting for their answer but I want to have other opinions
Just checked my lc17 at the same area and it seems likes it's very "super light" in that spot and probably only one or two layers thick of carbon sheet
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Just checked my lc17 at the same area and it seems likes it's very "super light" in that spot and probably only one or two layers thick of carbon sheet
Thanks for the responses.
And do you have the same noise ?
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Thanks for the responses.
And do you have the same noise ?
No definitely not. LC needs to send out a new frame asap or refund you and then explain how they could allow an obviously defective product to be shipped out. That crack could lead to catastrophic failure injuring the rider.
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Yeah...that's definitely an issue with more than just the paint. Crazy if the shipping box wasn't damaged and LC sent it out like that.
+1
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To be very clear, your frame is broken, do not ride it, get a replacement, and don't pay for it. FYI, it's obvious with the video, but impossible to tell with the picture alone. For any kind of warranty question, i find that video is the way to go.
I guess it makes you question the whole "affordable chinese yet ultra light carbon frame" thing a bit... Yishun / Light carbon have excellent reputation, yet less than 5 frames of the LC17 on this forum, and one's cracked out of the box. Not the kind of failure rate we want to live with, and it's infinitely more serious than a shitty C ring causing headset play, flexy bars that can be swapped for 100$ or a slipping seat post we can shim with a piece of soda can or some fiberglass cloth.
That is really, really not good.
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That's scary
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JimLee from LightCarbon?
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To be very clear, your frame is broken, do not ride it, get a replacement, and don't pay for it. FYI, it's obvious with the video, but impossible to tell with the picture alone. For any kind of warranty question, i find that video is the way to go.
I guess it makes you question the whole "affordable chinese yet ultra light carbon frame" thing a bit... Yishun / Light carbon have excellent reputation, yet less than 5 frames of the LC17 on this forum, and one's cracked out of the box. Not the kind of failure rate we want to live with, and it's infinitely more serious than a shitty C ring causing headset play, flexy bars that can be swapped for 100$ or a slipping seat post we can shim with a piece of soda can or some fiberglass cloth.
That is really, really not good.
Well not trying to be devils advocate but let's also take this with a pinch of salt. Yes, this is broken, yes this should not happen, yes this could have serious consequences, and yes I'm sure he should ask and get a replacement, but this can happen with absolutely any company.
For me it's all about how companies deal with these cases which actually matter. Customer service/warranty is way more important than any issue reported. He spotted this yesterday, asked for opinion, he will contact the company (whichever it is). The answer from them is the actual key here.
I have worked already in quite a couple of bikes and for me it's always about transparency, communication and good support. That's how I assess the companies I chose to work with in my business.
So let's wait and see. Having just 4 or 5 or even 10 bikes of these in this forum means little. I am buying one or two LC bikes to test the service regardless of this report here. If I like their service I can propose the frame/brand to my clients as an option. If not I keep with my provider and keep testing others.
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Yeah all that sounds good but how does LC send out an obviously defective and broken frame without some kind of QC?
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Just checked my lc17 at the same area and it seems likes it's very "super light" in that spot and probably only one or two layers thick of carbon sheet
You mean it´s thinner in that area than the rest of the frame?
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Thanks for everyone's feedback, there is definitely a crack.
I am in contact with Wendy from LC. I will keep you updated with how this goes.
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Yeah all that sounds good but how does LC send out an obviously defective and broken frame without some kind of QC?
Not trolling but why are you saying there is no QC?
Not trying to excuse this. I also hate when it happens especially in expensive products but QC is done at several stages. Maybe they need to add a QC layer here. I really don't know how the process of even putting it in the box working for them. If it's done by a machine maybe it could even be that. If its a manual process it can be sth else.
I'm looking forward to see how they deal with it especially since they seem to have no stock at the moment and waiting times seem to be around 2 months time.
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Not trolling but why are you saying there is no QC?
Not trying to excuse this. I also hate when it happens especially in expensive products but QC is done at several stages. Maybe they need to add a QC layer here. I really don't know how the process of even putting it in the box working for them. If it's done by a machine maybe it could even be that. If its a manual process it can be sth else.
I'm looking forward to see how they deal with it especially since they seem to have no stock at the moment and waiting times seem to be around 2 months time.
The whole objective of a proper QC protocol is to ultimately produce products that are free from defects before they ship to the end consumer. Everyone involved in the production process , from the initial order taker to the person packaging, should be another layer of QC and ultimately overseen by a department accountable for quality control..
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You mean it´s thinner in that area than the rest of the frame?
Yes...the area on the top side of the down tube below the bottle cage mounts and before the bottom bracket shell has more give or flex. Seems thin and I'm assuming it's designed that way. Hoping that JimLee from LC will be able to offer more insight.
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The whole objective of a proper QC protocol is to ultimately produce products that are free from defects before they ship to the end consumer. Everyone involved in the production process , from the initial order taker to the person packaging, should be another layer of QC and ultimately overseen by a department accountable for quality control..
Again, I totally agree!
They need to understand what went wrong in this or similar cases and improve that part.
QA/QC is a never ending process all the time :). Hope they fix this building issue and all clients issues
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Maybe something did go wrong with the shipping... It's not because there are no visible signs on the outside that nothing has happened...
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Maybe something did go wrong with the shipping... It's not because there are no visible signs on the outside that nothing has happened...
The area where the crack is, on the top side of the down tube on the inside of the front triangle of the frame. There's no way that could happen in shipping if the box isn't damaged.
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Thanks for everyone's feedback, there is definitely a crack.
I am in contact with Wendy from LC. I will keep you updated with how this goes.
wendy has replied to you，A new frame will be sent to you.
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The area where the crack is, on the top side of the down tube on the inside of the front triangle of the frame. There's no way that could happen in shipping if the box isn't damaged.
From the video and pictures, it looks more like the outer black paint has come loose during packaging or shipping.
The frame will undergo multiple quality inspections before it is completed, and then it will be painted and the aluminum alloy parts with water bottle screw holes will be installed.
The quality inspection in these last two processes is only an inspection of the surface appearance.
Cracks may come from handling or rough treatment during transportation.
We will improve this based on feedback
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Again, I totally agree!
They need to understand what went wrong in this or similar cases and improve that part.
QA/QC is a never ending process all the time :). Hope they fix this building issue and all clients issues
Yes, we will improve details such as products and shipping based on customer feedback!
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This is some top notch customer service :)
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I've ordered this Frame (ultralight version) on april 2th after I had a detailed Email conversation with Wendy. She was very professional so far.
She told me it'll take 20-30 days production time. Today I asked her an she told me it will take like 10 days longer, which is still okay to me.
I'll send an update and pictures when I know something new.
I'm glad that they seem to handle this
Defect with some good customer support and sent out a new frame.
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wendy has replied to you，A new frame will be sent to you.
Yes, I received her message this morning
LC is sending a new frame. I am really happy by how they handled this. Their customer service is legit.
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Excellent, are you shipping the defective frame back so they can figure out what caused the carbon to delaminate?
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From the video and pictures, it looks more like the outer black paint has come loose during packaging or shipping.
The frame will undergo multiple quality inspections before it is completed, and then it will be painted and the aluminum alloy parts with water bottle screw holes will be installed.
The quality inspection in these last two processes is only an inspection of the surface appearance.
Cracks may come from handling or rough treatment during transportation.
We will improve this based on feedback
If the aluminum inserts are installed after the frame is painted that process is most likely the culprit as that area seems to be the thinnest.
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Hello Community
Here is my finished build of the LCR017-D
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Beauty! Love the color! How’s the paint finish close up? Also, thanks for the feedback on the bottles. Ordered a couple to ship with my frame (still a month before shipping … the parts are so lonely! :P).
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Is there any suitable direct mount derailleur hanger to use with this frame?
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Hello Community
Here is my finished build of the LCR017-D
Please consider using different logos, it's pretty cringe (and illegal in lots of jurisdictions) to ride fakes. My bike looks like a Factor and i made Tractor decals, it's my way of trolling Factor. But putting Factor logos would just be cringe.
Light carbon makes good frames, there's no shame in riding one, but it doesn't make it a cannondale.
Nice build though, let us know how it rides & holds up over time!
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Please consider using different logos, it's pretty cringe (and illegal in lots of jurisdictions) to ride fakes. My bike looks like a Factor and i made Tractor decals, it's my way of trolling Factor. But putting Factor logos would just be cringe.
Light carbon makes good frames, there's no shame in riding one, but it doesn't make it a cannondale.
Nice build though, let us know how it rides & holds up over time!
I know
And it was never my Intention to drive it with the Cannondale decals
I originaly ordered with Lightcarbon dacals for 35$
But unfortunatly wendy and LC forgot to put the decals on my frame
Sorry
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Beauty! Love the color! How’s the paint finish close up? Also, thanks for the feedback on the bottles. Ordered a couple to ship with my frame (still a month before shipping … the parts are so lonely! :P).
The Color Finishing is not the best unfortunetly
After 500km I have alredy some chips in the Color
It isnt so durable like the name Brands
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Yeah the colour looks great but if it chips, not sure it's worth to pay.
Which colour is it?
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Clear coating over the color usually helps with durability which I wrongly assumed was included with the cost of painting
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Clear coating over the color usually helps with durability which I wrongly assumed was included with the cost of painting
Thanks
The Next time i am going to ask for the protective clear coating for shure.
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Yeah the colour looks great but if it chips, not sure it's worth to pay.
Which colour is it?
The color should be metallic Blue
But in real it isnt looking like on the color samples (But wandy from LC communicated this with me and asked if Its ok that isnt lake the Color chart
I approved it to avoid further delays
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The color should be metallic Blue
But in real it isnt looking like on the color samples (But wandy from LC communicated this with me and asked if Its ok that isnt lake the Color chart
I approved it to avoid further delays
Well I must say it looks great the colour. Are you fitting 32 tires? Do you think it's possible to fit 35?
About the Clear coating, maybe @Jim can confirm but I'd assume it should have it. Maybe they need to improve it too
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All modern paint jobs should be clear coated instead of just buffing the paint to a high gloss finish.
Wendy posted this lc17 on facebook with clear coat over just the raw carbon frame.https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1106790517314036&set=a.714845989841826 (https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1106790517314036&set=a.714845989841826)
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Well I must say it looks great the colour. Are you fitting 32 tires? Do you think it's possible to fit 35?
About the Clear coating, maybe @Jim can confirm but I'd assume it should have it. Maybe they need to improve it too
I'm currently driving a 30mm Vittoria Corsa Next and there's not a lot of space. 35mm shouldn't be a problem at all
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All modern paint jobs should be clear coated instead of just buffing the paint to a high gloss finish.
Wendy posted this lc17 on facebook with clear coat over just the raw carbon frame.
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/437529114_1106790493980705_84133431295003279_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5f2048&_nc_ohc=OI6ZPwSJdR0Ab6Z0uny&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-
That's actually a very good tip. Next time I probably won't order a very thick protective coat
1.xx&oh=00_AfB6Q9fxEefvwHOcNrDKpXUsDn73tzm3mQZBotqBTZWYBg&oe=662F093F (https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/437529114_1106790493980705_84133431295003279_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5f2048&_nc_ohc=OI6ZPwSJdR0Ab6Z0uny&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=00_AfB6Q9fxEefvwHOcNrDKpXUsDn73tzm3mQZBotqBTZWYBg&oe=662F093F)
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I'm currently driving a 30mm Vittoria Corsa Next and there's not a lot of space. 35mm shouldn't be a problem at all
Sorry your message was a bit confusing
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Sorry your message was a bit confusing
UPS
Yeah 35mm should fit without any problems
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UPS
Yeah 35mm should fit without any problems
Cool. Thanks. I'll order one to see the quality then and do a simple build with a 105 I got laying around
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Clear coating over the color usually helps with durability which I wrongly assumed was included with the cost of painting
Are you sure your frame isnt clear coated? From the video and photos it looks proper glossy (like a clear coated frame). But than again, this could be due to the sunlight.
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Are you sure your frame isnt clear coated? From the video and photos it looks proper glossy (like a clear coated frame). But than again, this could be due to the sunlight.
Definitely not clear coated....only buffed to the point where it's been rubbed through to the white base coat in areas . You figure the amount of time that they could have saved buffing it out by clear coating it instead would have been more cost effective in the end
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Definitely not clear coated....only buffed to the point where it's been rubbed through to the white base coat in areas . You figure the amount of time that they could have saved buffing it out by clear coating it instead would have been more cost effective in the end
Do you think it's possible to apply the clear coat yourself with a spray can afterwards, so that it looks like a professional job?
I never done a paint job before. But if they don't use a clear coat, the base paint should be a 2K colour, right. So sanding before applying the clear coat is required as far as I understand.
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Did you ask them already? @Jim can you confirm it there is a clearcoat or not?
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Do you think it's possible to apply the clear coat yourself with a spray can afterwards, so that it looks like a professional job?
I never done a paint job before. But if they don't use a clear coat, the base paint should be a 2K colour, right. So sanding before applying the clear coat is required as far as I understand.
Frame needs to be prepped and masked properly...it's really a job better done by a pro if you havent any painting experience. Best solution is to have the manufacturer paint the frames properly instead of pushing out sub-standard crap
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Did you ask them already? @Jim can you confirm it there is a clearcoat or not?
No, I did not asked them yet. But the frame is/was already during painting process this week.
I really hope that they use a proper clear coat. But from the other guys experiences it might be without.
Would be good if Jim can reply on that.
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Frame needs to be prepped and masked properly...it's really a job better done by a pro if you havent any painting experience. Best solution is to have the manufacturer paint the frames properly instead of pushing out sub-standard crap
Hm, you might probably be right with that. But I don't want to spend much more money for painting/ coating on the frame. If a professional has to do that I guess it will be pretty expensive.
However I don't have two left hands and with some tutorials and preparation I could imagine doing it by myself.
But who knows, maybe there will be a clear coat on the paint already. I really hope so...
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I'm sure you can handle painting the frame with some online tutorials. I would suggest using a two part epoxy clear coat available in a rattle can online .
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=asc_df_B0082LJMC6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312089957955&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18355015209638236415&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022698&hvtargid=pla-491695780726&psc=1&mcid=4dd3d2ef1707324ca3957547519fd71e&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBleu9Nt7ruWUvvu68PeiGlIwgv01XkPsH1WhYT3W2Ep5zkdkQrZu7K5EaAsRVEALw_wcB (https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=asc_df_B0082LJMC6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312089957955&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18355015209638236415&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022698&hvtargid=pla-491695780726&psc=1&mcid=4dd3d2ef1707324ca3957547519fd71e&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBleu9Nt7ruWUvvu68PeiGlIwgv01XkPsH1WhYT3W2Ep5zkdkQrZu7K5EaAsRVEALw_wcB)
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Having used one can clear coat, it's really not that great, so 2 part clear coat is likely a must. It will kill you though, so absolutely look into PPE and do it outside.
And it really is a pain to paint frames, so... Be very careful with over spray, clear coat is meant to not come off.
I painted one from primer stage, the result from a distance is fine, from up close it's adequate, but I wish I had just ordered black and played with decals. To be fair the whole painting operation cost me less than 30 EUR.
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Having used one can clear coat, it's really not that great, so 2 part clear coat is likely a must. It will kill you though, so absolutely look into PPE and do it outside.
And it really is a pain to paint frames, so... Be very careful with over spray, clear coat is meant to not come off.
I painted one from primer stage, the result from a distance is fine, from up close it's adequate, but I wish I had just ordered black and played with decals. To be fair the whole painting operation cost me less than 30 EUR.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I think a very precise masking with tape is a must.
As far as I know, using 2K clear coat in first layer, let it dry for a few days, then sanding and applying another layer is the minimum for a good result.
What I'm not sure about is, if it is needed to sand the original paint layer first, before applying the first layer of clear coat.
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I received frame yesterday, and am happy to report that some of the issues posted here the past few weeks were not a problem for me.
Clear coat over a really great chameleon paint
Faced brake mounts
Fit of everything seems really great
I requested both round and oval seat clamps and both were provided, showing attention to detail
Will post pictures when its complete
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I received frame yesterday, and am happy to report that some of the issues posted here the past few weeks were not a problem for me.
Clear coat over a really great chameleon paint
Faced brake mounts
Fit of everything seems really great
I requested both round and oval seat clamps and both were provided, showing attention to detail
Will post pictures when its complete
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Good to hear LC is learning from their customer based QC Dept. I believe that chameleon paint is a base coat system with a clear that allows the chameleon effect to happen.
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Recieved my frame today. Initial inspection tells me all is well.
Frame wise all seems well.
Material tickness around headset area is spot on, bearing seats are, well... REALLY clean.
Derallieur hanger and wheel axel mounts are as expected, ie clean and no paint spill.
Overall paint job is immaculate, did mine in glossy pearl white with LC logos.
If there is interrest, I can post pics after build is finished.
Cheers,
Chris
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If there is interrest, I can post pics after build is finished.
Sounds good. And yes, pics please. Unnecessary question... :)
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Recieved my frame today. Initial inspection tells me all is well.
Frame wise all seems well.
Material tickness around headset area is spot on, bearing seats are, well... REALLY clean.
Derallieur hanger and wheel axel mounts are as expected, ie clean and no paint spill.
Overall paint job is immaculate, did mine in glossy pearl white with LC logos.
If there is interrest, I can post pics after build is finished.
Cheers,
Chris
You can even post pics now ahaha. We like to follow the process
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Here, teaser pic...
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Quick question: did the provided tracking number work for you? Wendy send me a tracking number for my wheelset about 12 days ago, but the tracking is not moving at all (which she said would happen).
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Tracking, naah, not until the last 36hrs of the delivery. Tracking page said parcel was registered but not yet recieved, then the last stages in Europe it was all good. The parcel took 20 days to get to Stockholm / me after registration with the carrier (DHL).
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Here, teaser pic...
nice how much overall?
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Here, teaser pic...
Cool. Super nice. Thought about that colour too.
Did you have to pay for the logo or as it was theirs they didn't charge you?
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Pricing.
LC had a introduction rate of the frame, so I ended up paying 955USD inc. shipping and VAT.
That included custom design, ie paint job, with decals. Proper decal job, no stickers.
Separate handlebar+stem, seat post, axles, headset, plus additional extra DH, extra head set inc. spacers.
Spent most day in the garage yesterday. Building experience is good, really, the only issue so far is internal cable routing. Edges (entry/exit) of holes are a bit rough.
After building several bokes with a SWORKS logo on it (supposedly good) so far the experience with this frame is more or less up there, pleasant. :)
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Pricing.
LC had a introduction rate of the frame, so I ended up paying 955USD inc. shipping and VAT.
That included custom design, ie paint job, with decals. Proper decal job, no stickers.
Separate handlebar+stem, seat post, axles, headset, plus additional extra DH, extra head set inc. spacers.
Spent most day in the garage yesterday. Building experience is good, really, the only issue so far is internal cable routing. Edges (entry/exit) of holes are a bit rough.
After building several bokes with a SWORKS logo on it (supposedly good) so far the experience with this frame is more or less up there, pleasant. :)
Looks great and promising. Looking forward for the build
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Another build day, today was BB and cranks.
So, I confess to being somewhat @n@l when it comes to alignment, so the LCR017-D gets a treatment.
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Did you need to work on' the bottom bracket?? Was it that bad?
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Another build day, today was BB and cranks.
So, I confess to being somewhat @n@l when it comes to alignment, so the LCR017-D gets a treatment.
Tool probably costs more than the frameset
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Yes, the tool is ridiculously expensive, and for this frame not really needed.
I'm picky. And a bit obsessed with optimization. :)
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Ironically saw the new thread about bolt length for the LCR015-D with SRAM calipers, and need the same for the LCR017-D. Anyone know if this also takes 27mm bolts? Sorry for my ignorance, but are the front fork bolts all standard for SRAM? Got Force OEM brifter/calipers, so no bolts/washers. Hopefully someone can kindly tell me what to order! ;D
Thanks in advance!
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I almost forgot that I wanted to ask a similar question about the length of bolts for the brake calipers.
I'm going to build the LCR017-D Frame with Shimano Ultegra 2x11 (R8000). Can anyone tell me if I need longer (or shorter) bolts for mounting the brake caliper on that frame?
Especially on the rear there are often longer bolts needed, as far as I know.
Thanks in advance.
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Ok. I've decided to give this frame a trial.
Will be using an old 105 7020 I got laying around. How is this bike fit? Does it fit on the bigger size or lower?
I'm 1.89 so I am going for the 58 for sure, just not sure about stem 100 or 110 and seatpost setback 0 or 20.
I'm not going to do any racing so I'd rather go more to a neutral approach. My usual rides are on endurance bikes like the carbonda 1056.
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If you dont know the site, play around with https://geometrygeeks.bike/. Will let you compare bikes' geometries, it's extremely helpful.
Height alone means very little. I'm 184 and i now ride medium frames because i have long legs (saddle height of c.81cm). I also have fairly long arms, so i can fit myself on large frames, but i have a short torso, so i'm actually more comfortable to push watts on a medium than a large, with fairly high stack because my saddle to bar drop is pretty extreme. If in doubt, always, always go smaller rather than larger. I just sold a giant propel in L that was always a tad too big for me. Tragic, because that bike was amazing. Had i bought a M/L i probably would not have upgraded.
If you ride on the flat a lot and are comfortable in aero positions, probably best to take a 0 offset post, will get you more vertical on the BB, a la TT bike.
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If you dont know the site, play around with https://geometrygeeks.bike/. Will let you compare bikes' geometries, it's extremely helpful.
Height alone means very little. I'm 184 and i now ride medium frames because i have long legs (saddle height of c.81cm). I also have fairly long arms, so i can fit myself on large frames, but i have a short torso, so i'm actually more comfortable to push watts on a medium than a large, with fairly high stack because my saddle to bar drop is pretty extreme. If in doubt, always, always go smaller rather than larger. I just sold a giant propel in L that was always a tad too big for me. Tragic, because that bike was amazing. Had i bought a M/L i probably would not have upgraded.
If you ride on the flat a lot and are comfortable in aero positions, probably best to take a 0 offset post, will get you more vertical on the BB, a la TT bike.
Thanks. Unfortunately it's quite hard for me to assess since my other bikes are completely different ahah. Will try to get access to a canyon ultimate L size. Apparently they have very similar geometries.
I'm pretty comfy on the endurace for example L size, which is basically the same of all endurace. I know this one is more agressive, but just wonder really the difference on those 2 things. 110 stem and the seatpost setback. Bike size is definitely the 58.
I can imagine though thst with 0 setback I can still play with the seat sth like 15mm back. Will see but place the order in any case.
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Thanks. Unfortunately it's quite hard for me to assess since my other bikes are completely different ahah. Will try to get access to a canyon ultimate L size. Apparently they have very similar geometries.
I'm pretty comfy on the endurace for example L size, which is basically the same of all endurace. I know this one is more agressive, but just wonder really the difference on those 2 things. 110 stem and the seatpost setback. Bike size is definitely the 58.
I can imagine though thst with 0 setback I can still play with the seat sth like 15mm back. Will see but place the order in any case.
Why not buy both models (0 and 20). A seatpost costs around 50-60USD; On short saddles (approx. 245 cm), you have fewer adjustment possibilities compared to a 275 cm saddle
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Why not buy both models (0 and 20). A seatpost costs around 50-60USD; On short saddles (approx. 245 cm), you have fewer adjustment possibilities compared to a 275 cm saddle
Thanks! I've made some quick calculations on https://www.bikegeocalc.com and I'm going for 0 setback and 100mm stem. It'll still be more aggressive than the bikes I have but should be fine ahaha. Let's hope. Fingers crossed.
Let's see now how long it will take to deliver
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So, my build is done.
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So, my build is done.
Nice!
Is it size 56?
I ordered the frame already too in size 58 (0mm setback and 100mm stem).
Saw some posts of people complaining about the fact that the frame has no "hole" To release water either in the frame or in the fork, yet still decided to test it.
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Nice!
Is it size 56?
I ordered the frame already too in size 58 (0mm setback and 100mm stem).
Saw some posts of people complaining about the fact that the frame has no "hole" To release water either in the frame or in the fork, yet still decided to test it.
My frame has a 1/8-in hole beneath the bottom bracket for I guess water egress
(http://)
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My frame has a 1/8-in hole beneath the bottom bracket for I guess water egress
Same here, a hole underneath the BB, for the fork, have not seen any.
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Same here, a hole underneath the BB, for the fork, have not seen any.
Thanks to both.
Maybe it was the first frame builds. As regards the fork dunno. Some user a while back complained about a big gap between the frame and the spacers. I guess water can go in. Anyway I don't ride in the rain ahaha. It's more concerning when cleaning/washing it
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When you compress this headset, the space no longer exists. I saw these comments and so I bought another set of spacer on Ali. By simply putting it down, there was no gap. Also, when I compressed the headset, the handlebars wouldn't turn anymore because they were too tight. So I came back with the initial headset which is well tuned. I'll be posting pictures soon. I'm currently testing the bike
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When you compress this headset, the space no longer exists. I saw these comments and so I bought another set of spacer on Ali. By simply putting it down, there was no gap. Also, when I compressed the headset, the handlebars wouldn't turn anymore because they were too tight. So I came back with the initial headset which is well tuned. I'll be posting pictures soon. I'm currently testing the bike
Great to hear thst and looking forward to see your pics
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So, my build is done.
Looks very nice :D
Did you have the chance to ride it. If yes, how does it feel so far? Any problems?
Looking forward to get my frame and wheels.
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Looks very nice :D
Did you have the chance to ride it. If yes, how does it feel so far? Any problems?
Looking forward to get my frame and wheels.
Thank you.
The complete process of ordering with specifying paint, parts, and building has been a no issue (and pleasant) adventure so far.
Some really minor things are;
Tracking of the frame, a notice of a booked parcel and then nothing for 20days, and the last 1-2 days were packed with updates. Not a product quality issue.
Next minor notice, and im being quite picky now, is that the rear axle threads in place somewhat with resistance.
Hunch is that derallieur hanger and axle thread tolerances are not the same as the carbon parts.
To be honest, those are just small farts in a storm as comparison.
Did a initial 60min ride and pushed it a bit.
Im about 82-84kgs, Pmax of 1300w roughly on a super light frame, size 56 and my reaction is undisputed happiness.
Frame feels stiff and as per geometry of frame, right on target.
For a safety check of handlebar + stem check, I hanged my whole body wheight on the drops and jumped/rocked up and down. Solid as can be.
To summorize so far, _really_ satisfied.
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@c74 - this looks like a really nice build. Two questions. How still is the rear triangle / fork combo? Also, did you manage to see what the inside of the frame is like - any sharp edges or excessive creases?
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Thank you.
The complete process of ordering with specifying paint, parts, and building has been a no issue (and pleasant) adventure so far.
Some really minor things are;
Tracking of the frame, a notice of a booked parcel and then nothing for 20days, and the last 1-2 days were packed with updates. Not a product quality issue.
Next minor notice, and im being quite picky now, is that the rear axle threads in place somewhat with resistance.
Hunch is that derallieur hanger and axle thread tolerances are not the same as the carbon parts.
To be honest, those are just small farts in a storm as comparison.
Did a initial 60min ride and pushed it a bit.
Im about 82-84kgs, Pmax of 1300w roughly on a super light frame, size 56 and my reaction is undisputed happiness.
Frame feels stiff and as per geometry of frame, right on target.
For a safety check of handlebar + stem check, I hanged my whole body wheight on the drops and jumped/rocked up and down. Solid as can be.
To summorize so far, _really_ satisfied.
Nice, thanks for sharing you experience.
Can't wait to receive my order.
I've already waxed the new chain on yesterday evening ;D
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@c74 - this looks like a really nice build. Two questions. How still is the rear triangle / fork combo? Also, did you manage to see what the inside of the frame is like - any sharp edges or excessive creases?
Hi, sorry for late answer.
Don't quite understand what the "how still is the...", you mean stiff? Anyways, for a superlight the frame is really stiff. As Im 80kg+ and bend quite a bit and feel no annoying flex to be worried about. For the non Super Light, I'd be worried it might be to stiff and harsh.
I combined the frame with 9velo's LV55's which are quite stiff, the combo of frame an wheels, I simply cannot get the discs to rub on the pads whatever I do. :)
About the inside, I have no small cam, so no, just eye balling down the tubes (also look at my previous pics in this thread) is it clean. Really clean. Frame is supposedly not build with bladders but some other technique, check LC's website for more info there.
The exit holes for brake lines, both on frame, fork and handlebar are somewhat sharp, but nothing that a fine sandpaper and just wiping the edge wont fix.
Bearing seats around head tube are equal in thickness all around, ie material between bearing seat and paint job on the outside.
Seats for wheels in frame is clean of paint overspray and edges are super sharp. Actually impressive at this price point.
Regardless of the price for the frame set in comparison to other products out there I think it is a really nice product.
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Well here is my construction is finished. Some 400km done. This is a tuning phase. I am 178 cm tall and 68kg; I opted for size 54. I finally changed the seatpost for a 0° because I use a short saddle (Elita one) of 245 cm in length and therefore little travel. I put 30 tires at the rear and 28 at the front. Of the 32 will pass without any problem. The wheels are YAR45-03 from Yuananbike (the equivalent of the Elite Edge) if I'm not mistaken. All-around wheels for the area I live in. My driving impressions are good. In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous". Maybe I'll lower the cockpit. It is currently 1cm higher than my other bikes. No construction problems. In the photos, you will see that there is no gap in the headset, that the downtube is not as excessive as some might think. I posted a picture with a Hammerhead. I have moved it as close to the handlebars as possible and if you want, you can have even more room. Well come on, I'm leaving you, I have to train for the TDF (LOL). N.b: pay attention to the size of the handlebars when you order, the length is calculated on the bottom and with an angle of -10°, a length of 100 below measures about 110 on top
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The continuation of my previous message
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In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous".
You could try to lower the pressure... 5,5bar (80 PSI) is pretty high for today's standard. I am 65kg and inflate my 28mm tires to 50 psi in the back and 45 in the front. I ride tubeless though...
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N.b: pay attention to the size of the handlebars when you order, the length is calculated on the bottom and with an angle of -10°, a length of 100 below measures about 110 on top
Nice catch! Didn't notice that. I wonder how other brands do it. Still wondering though if I should go 110 instead of the 100mm
Your build looks neat.
I ordered 2x GP5000 in 32. Wanna ride comfy ahaha
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Nice catch! Didn't notice that. I wonder how other brands do it. Still wondering though if I should go 110 instead of the 100mm
Your build looks neat.
I ordered 2x GP5000 in 32. Wanna ride comfy ahaha
I hadn't been careful when I took the HBR13 in 100mm. As a result, I bought a 0° seatpost. I then moved my shoe cleats back slightly because of discomfort under the underfoot. Everything looks ok now. The worst is that I had ordered two seatposts in -20 (in case of breakage). For longer saddles, it could be okay but it's limited to the level of the marks on the rails. Otherwise the handlebars are great.
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I hadn't been careful when I took the HBR13 in 100mm. As a result, I bought a 0° seatpost. I then moved my shoe cleats back slightly because of discomfort under the underfoot. Everything looks ok now. The worst is that I had ordered two seatposts in -20 (in case of breakage). For longer saddles, it could be okay but it's limited to the level of the marks on the rails. Otherwise the handlebars are great.
Have you had many seat posts break on you in the past? Thinking that could be catastrophic for the rider
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Have you had many seat posts break on you in the past? Thinking that could be catastrophic for the rider
I anticipated either a fall, or a tightening torque a little too strong (failure of my torque wrench). It has cost me, in the past, about 200 USD for a Ritchey.Je noticed it after a ride where I saw a small crack appear at the junction of the frame and the seatpost. Moreover, not being curvy, I'm not sure if we found it on Ali for example. This is definitely a proprietary seatpost. Anyway, I have one for sale
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HBR13 in 100mm
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HBR13 in 100mm
Thanks a lot! Indeed it's 110.
I wonder if other brands also measure it from bottom. Like canyon or etc.
I see that LC says they measure from "under" because of the stem angle being 10º
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Took me a bit longer to make this post. Overall experience has been really good. The fit of everything was spot on. Full build came in at 15.2 lbs without pedals (size 52). For being that light, I am also surprised at how stiff it feels in accelerations. My order was handled well and had great communication. I really like the color but it is more purple than I expected, but it looks great. You can see in the sunlight it has the orangish chameleon, but the purple is the dominant color. Paint selection was LCB-02HS. Current setup is gp5000 28mm, but have a second wheelset with 32mm gp5000. One bummer is the width of handlebar options. I went with the 40 x 110 handlebar and I have been running narrower bars and would have selected narrower, if available.
I will quickly address some of the items on this thread:
My frame has a drain hole under the BB
I will say that the layup feels pretty thin below the bottle cage on the downtube. It is a larger tube size, but the wall thickness feels thin.
Brake caliper mounts are faced
Rear thru axle does require more torque than other frames (but doesn't appear to be any thread damage, so I don't know, not really an issue to me, but a previous poster described this).
I had to cut the seat tube to get my fit right, but just 1/2" or so.
I also ran into an issue with the seatpost clamp. After riding I needed to adjust, and upon retorque the clamp to 6nm something with the pins that hold the bolt broke. I have contacted LC and will update with how quickly they respond. I am pretty sure their clamp is a tried and true design across other frames, so I am not quite sure. I want to tear it apart to see whats going on but it is kind of a captive part.
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Nice build and beautiful color!
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I think I've made peace with not buying that frame. The down tube is simply too much of a square box in the wind. It can't possibly be fast, and I'm routinely doing 40+kmh on the flat so it matters to my riding. It's been helpful to see people's builds here to confirm that. The real Cannondale is nowhere near as boxy.
I also don't think it is a timeless design. That's subjective, but I feel the rim brake supersix (and first generations discs) is timeless. Along with various other frames. But not that one.
The thin downtube also raises questions a la Canyon. If you throw two bikes in the boot of the car, the last thing I want is a cracked frame in transit.
I thought I'd post because I long and seriously considered buying one.
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Took me a bit longer to make this post. Overall experience has been really good. The fit of everything was spot on. Full build came in at 15.2 lbs without pedals (size 52). For being that light, I am also surprised at how stiff it feels in accelerations. My order was handled well and had great communication. I really like the color but it is more purple than I expected, but it looks great. You can see in the sunlight it has the orangish chameleon, but the purple is the dominant color. Paint selection was LCB-02HS. Current setup is gp5000 28mm, but have a second wheelset with 32mm gp5000. One bummer is the width of handlebar options. I went with the 40 x 110 handlebar and I have been running narrower bars and would have selected narrower, if available.
I will quickly address some of the items on this thread:
My frame has a drain hole under the BB
I will say that the layup feels pretty thin below the bottle cage on the downtube. It is a larger tube size, but the wall thickness feels thin.
Brake caliper mounts are faced
Rear thru axle does require more torque than other frames (but doesn't appear to be any thread damage, so I don't know, not really an issue to me, but a previous poster described this).
I had to cut the seat tube to get my fit right, but just 1/2" or so.
I also ran into an issue with the seatpost clamp. After riding I needed to adjust, and upon retorque the clamp to 6nm something with the pins that hold the bolt broke. I have contacted LC and will update with how quickly they respond. I am pretty sure their clamp is a tried and true design across other frames, so I am not quite sure. I want to tear it apart to see whats going on but it is kind of a captive part.
Build indeed looks quite neat.
I think I've made peace with not buying that frame. The down tube is simply too much of a square box in the wind. It can't possibly be fast, and I'm routinely doing 40+kmh on the flat so it matters to my riding. It's been helpful to see people's builds here to confirm that. The real Cannondale is nowhere near as boxy.
I also don't think it is a timeless design. That's subjective, but I feel the rim brake supersix (and first generations discs) is timeless. Along with various other frames. But not that one.
The thin downtube also raises questions a la Canyon. If you throw two bikes in the boot of the car, the last thing I want is a cracked frame in transit.
I thought I'd post because I long and seriously considered buying one.
I don't think this bike has the best design, with that I agree.
Sth simple would be better like their 007 just updated for full integrated frame etc.
I don't think we can "assess" the reliability from the frame/downtube from the "looks thin" perspective. Let's see how it holds. There are quite a few users here already with this. In any case you can also choose the non-superlight version which should be stiffer and have thicker carbon. Which option did you end up going for?
I went for this mainly for this frame for two reasons:
- Quality seems to be there (you don't really hear bad things about LC) and when it happens they seem to provide good support
- The speed and quality of their answers is top notch and only found similar at Carbonda, which had a great product too but way more expensive.
I've contacted other factories, like tantan, ltk and brokers like velobuild, etc, and tested them as well with my philosophy and only these two passed my tests with distinction. I'm not defending them.
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You will drive at more than 40km/h with this frame without any problem and maintain this speed. Concerning the wall, I confirm the thinness under the pressure of the hand. It reminds me of my Hyper wheels (Winspace), very thin too.
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You will drive at more than 40km/h with this frame without any problem and maintain this speed. Concerning the wall, I confirm the thinness under the pressure of the hand. It reminds me of my Hyper wheels (Winspace), very thin too.
Do Western branded frames also Flex when they're considered lightweight?
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Little update, received pictures of the paint job of my frame. Sadly it apparently will take another 30 days until it arrives. But im happy how it turned out. Bought a gold KMC chain and brown leather bartape to go with it. Now i need to find a brown sadle to match it.
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Little update, received pictures of the paint job of my frame. Sadly it apparently will take another 30 days until it arrives. But im happy how it turned out. Bought a gold KMC chain and brown leather bartape to go with it. Now i need to find a brown sadle to match it.
Nice colours! Now I am jeaolous u guys have such nice colours and I went to a "conservative" one.
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Nice colours! Now I am jeaolous u guys have such nice colours and I went to a "conservative" one.
hehe next time you know what to do. I build my previous bike 10 years ago with a chinese frame and used matt black. so this time i went for the opposite :D
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Do Western branded frames also Flex when they're considered lightweight?
" To be light or not to be light "; That is the question
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" To be light or not to be light "; That is the question
As long as it is resistant, doesn't break and my amateur level doesn't make it flex while pushing, whatever :). The lighter the better
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Yeah I am not too concerned. As a whole, the frame seems solid and strong. One of my teammates had a Trek Boone that you could press the middle of the top tube and it would flex. I think it is the nature of a wide tube diameter and a thin wall.
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Little update, received pictures of the paint job of my frame. Sadly it apparently will take another 30 days until it arrives. But im happy how it turned out. Bought a gold KMC chain and brown leather bartape to go with it. Now i need to find a brown sadle to match it.
Nice colour.
What colour code is this?
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You will drive at more than 40km/h with this frame without any problem and maintain this speed. Concerning the wall, I confirm the thinness under the pressure of the hand. It reminds me of my Hyper wheels (Winspace), very thin too.
While I don't really understand the squared design of the downtube, I can not imagine that an average rider would feel any difference. Especially because I guess the front wheel will make the bigger difference in that area and It should kinda shield parts of the downtube from the air flow.
I think the rider position, clothing, ... will make the biggest difference in aerodynamics.
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While I don't really understand the squared design of the downtube, I can not imagine that an average rider would feel any difference. Especially because I guess the front wheel will make the bigger difference in that area and It should kinda shield parts of the downtube from the air flow.
I think the rider position, clothing, ... will make the biggest difference in aerodynamics.
Absolutely agree with you. I am not an engineer, nor a specialist in aerodynamics. LC should send the frame to Hambini for review (ah! ah!)
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While I don't really understand the squared design of the downtube, I can not imagine that an average rider would feel any difference. Especially because I guess the front wheel will make the bigger difference in that area and It should kinda shield parts of the downtube from the air flow.
I think the rider position, clothing, ... will make the biggest difference in aerodynamics.
we know for a fact that rider & clothing matter more than the bike itself, it's about 80% rider and 20% bike, afaik.
That being said, a bus shaped tube is a bus shaped tube. Even without a wind tunnel, we know that tear drop / kamm tail shaped things are more aero than round things, or boxes... And we know that buses aren't aero. You wont find an aero frame with a wide, boxy shape like that, nor will you find a frame that touts its aero prowess with a boxy shape like that - until proven otherwise, ofc. Given it's an ultra light frame, and making frames of that weight at this price point is a new phenomenon, and that LC doesn't make any aero claims, i think it's safe to assume it's not aero. Whether it matters or not is subjective. But even if it "only" costs 5W at 45kmh, i try to spend my money diligently, and given how incredibly hard it is for me to raise my ftp by 5W, if i'm going to buy a frame, and if i can, i'm going to avoid buying one that screams "i'm a bus". It's a guesstimate. It's also an aesthetics consideration, as i dont find that boxy shape appealing.
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we know for a fact that rider & clothing matter more than the bike itself, it's about 80% rider and 20% bike, afaik.
That being said, a bus shaped tube is a bus shaped tube. Even without a wind tunnel, we know that tear drop / kamm tail shaped things are more aero than round things, or boxes... And we know that buses aren't aero. You wont find an aero frame with a wide, boxy shape like that, nor will you find a frame that touts its aero prowess with a boxy shape like that - until proven otherwise, ofc. Given it's an ultra light frame, and making frames of that weight at this price point is a new phenomenon, and that LC doesn't make any aero claims, i think it's safe to assume it's not aero. Whether it matters or not is subjective. But even if it "only" costs 5W at 45kmh, i try to spend my money diligently, and given how incredibly hard it is for me to raise my ftp by 5W, if i'm going to buy a frame, and if i can, i'm going to avoid buying one that screams "i'm a bus". It's a guesstimate. It's also an aesthetics consideration, as i dont find that boxy shape appealing.
I agree with you with the aesthetics of the downtube. It would look better and make more sense in a different (teardrop like) shape.
In terms of stiffness it maybe makes sense. I'm also no engineer in this area, so I'm only guessing.
Other than that, I like the design and geometrie of the frame.
For me I doesn't matter if I'll loose like 5W at 45km/h. I'm far from being a professional and I do not race.
That and other reason made me order this Frameset. I'll see how happy I am with it after it gets delivered and the build is done ;D
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Absolutely agree with you. I am not an engineer, nor a specialist in aerodynamics. LC should send the frame to Hambini for review (ah! ah!)
I'd love to see Hambini reaming it ;D
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I agree with you with the aesthetics of the downtube. It would look better and make more sense in a different (teardrop like) shape.
In terms of stiffness it maybe makes sense. I'm also no engineer in this area, so I'm only guessing.
Other than that, I like the design and geometrie of the frame.
For me I doesn't matter if I'll loose like 5W at 45km/h. I'm far from being a professional and I do not race.
That and other reason made me order this Frameset. I'll see how happy I am with it after it gets delivered and the build is done ;D
You do you! i considered buying one myself for many weeks, and i'm not saying it's a bad frame, in fact i think it's a great frame! i was just detailing my thought process as i figured it could be useful to some.
Enjoy your new bike and post here about your experience and impressions!
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we know for a fact that rider & clothing matter more than the bike itself, it's about 80% rider and 20% bike, afaik.
That being said, a bus shaped tube is a bus shaped tube. Even without a wind tunnel, we know that tear drop / kamm tail shaped things are more aero than round things, or boxes... And we know that buses aren't aero. You wont find an aero frame with a wide, boxy shape like that, nor will you find a frame that touts its aero prowess with a boxy shape like that - until proven otherwise, ofc. Given it's an ultra light frame, and making frames of that weight at this price point is a new phenomenon, and that LC doesn't make any aero claims, i think it's safe to assume it's not aero. Whether it matters or not is subjective. But even if it "only" costs 5W at 45kmh, i try to spend my money diligently, and given how incredibly hard it is for me to raise my ftp by 5W, if i'm going to buy a frame, and if i can, i'm going to avoid buying one that screams "i'm a bus". It's a guesstimate. It's also an aesthetics consideration, as i dont find that boxy shape appealing.
As long as we all know what we are getting/building/taking, get support and are all happy that's all it matters ;)
Opinions will always be opinions :) Being it Hambini and all other (pseudo) specialists.
People spend more time online reading all the details and micro-details than actually riding the bike and enjoying the fresh air :).
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You do you! i considered buying one myself for many weeks, and i'm not saying it's a bad frame, in fact i think it's a great frame! i was just detailing my thought process as i figured it could be useful to some.
Enjoy your new bike and post here about your experience and impressions!
For me that's actually what is more valuable in these forums. Analysing the different reasoning and mental model different people use to select frames/bikes/products. Question them and take my conclusions and decisions.
Thanks for sharing your inputs
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For me that's actually what is more valuable in these forums. Analysing the different reasoning and mental model different people use to select frames/bikes/products. Question them and take my conclusions and decisions.
Thanks for sharing your inputs
It's the same for me. From others experiences and opinions I can maybe learn or think from an different angle on the topic.
So I thing discussions are a good thing :)
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I know
And it was never my Intention to drive it with the Cannondale decals
I originaly ordered with Lightcarbon dacals for 35$
But unfortunatly wendy and LC forgot to put the decals on my frame
Sorry
I know this is an old topic in this thread but personally I think a cool take on bike decals is to modify an existing manufacturer's decal into something funny. For example, "cannondale" can become "nondale" if you cut off the first 3 letters from the vinyl. I've taken a "mongoose" decal set and labeled my bike "goose" (complete with a goose head sticker on my headtube ;D). I've seek "TREK" turned into "REKT". I've seen "Specialized" turned into "Special" as well as "Special ed" (a risky choice for sure). You could take "DOGMA" stickers and turn them into "DOG". The possibilities are endless, and that's just with standard factory stickers, not even getting into custom stickers.
Anyways. I think it's a fun idea, a way to put some graphic design on the bike that makes it look like a "real" bike while poking fun at the "unbranded" nature of these bikes. Just a thought for anyone here who wants some kind of decals but don't want to appear cringe.
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I know this is an old topic in this thread but personally I think a cool take on bike decals is to modify an existing manufacturer's decal into something funny. For example, "cannondale" can become "nondale" if you cut off the first 3 letters from the vinyl. I've taken a "mongoose" decal set and labeled my bike "goose" (complete with a goose head sticker on my headtube ;D). I've seek "TREK" turned into "REKT". I've seen "Specialized" turned into "Special" as well as "Special ed" (a risky choice for sure). You could take "DOGMA" stickers and turn them into "DOG". The possibilities are endless, and that's just with standard factory stickers, not even getting into custom stickers.
Anyways. I think it's a fun idea, a way to put some graphic design on the bike that makes it look like a "real" bike while poking fun at the "unbranded" nature of these bikes. Just a thought for anyone here who wants some kind of decals but don't want to appear cringe.
Yeah but nah...prefer a nice color and design over any brand or spoffy goof brand
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Yeah agree, the main reason I build up my own bike is because I get to design my own bike and not cycle around with some giant brand billboard ruining the aesthetics.
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I'd love to see Hambini reaming it ;D
Hambini did a review of a Lightcarbon gravel frame, up on YT. I'm to stupid to get a URL working in this forum, so you have to find it yourself.
Well worth a look get a feel for LightCarbons QC/QA and engineering principles.
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Hambini did a review of a Lightcarbon gravel frame, up on YT. I'm to stupid to get a URL working in this forum, so you have to find it yourself.
Well worth a look get a feel for LightCarbons QC/QA and engineering principles.
Yes, I've already seen it. Even before buying :)
Maybe someone can send him the LCR017 Frame ;D
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Tracking, naah, not until the last 36hrs of the delivery. Tracking page said parcel was registered but not yet recieved, then the last stages in Europe it was all good. The parcel took 20 days to get to Stockholm / me after registration with the carrier (DHL).
I know this post is a little bit older.
Can you tell me if 20 days was the complete delivery time from China or only after arriving in Europe?
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I know this post is a little bit older.
Can you tell me if 20 days was the complete delivery time from China or only after arriving in Europe?
typically 20 days is total transit time, once it's in europe you have it within 1 week, for experience. it is true that tracking data sometimes goes dark for no apparent reason between china and europe. presumably because of VAT shenanigans with DDP schemes. Once it resurfaces, you get it pretty fast.
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I just received my Frameset today. So far it looks good.
But I think there is one big problem. The front derailleur mount seems to small, so that the bolt from the front derailleur do not touch anything. I also can't glue the Shimano metal sticker.
Anyone have an idea what I should do now?
Did I do something wrong or is that a problem from the hanger?
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I just received my Frameset today. So far it looks good.
But I think there is one big problem. The front derailleur mount seems to small, so that the bolt from the front derailleur do not touch anything. I also can't glue the Shimano metal sticker.
Anyone have an idea what I should do now?
Did I do something wrong or is that a problem from the hanger?
But isn't that the 'tension' screw? That is not the one attaching the derailleur to the frame if I'm not mistaken
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But isn't that the 'tension' screw? That is not the one attaching the derailleur to the frame if I'm not mistaken
It is the support screw that should sit against the frame or hanger. But in case of the delivered hanger it's not touching anything. So I guess I ether got the wrong hanger or LC is wrong by saying this Frame will work with mechanical shifting.
I think I got a problem. If nobody has a solution I will contact Wendy tomorrow.
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Did you check this? https://youtu.be/-3_EU4cccW4?si=kVnZBu-cqcQ25UdS
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Did you check this? https://youtu.be/-3_EU4cccW4?si=kVnZBu-cqcQ25UdS
Yes, I know this video witch is very good.
But according to the video, the support- or stabilizing screw has to touch the frame or hanger to make Indexing possible.
I wrote an mail to Wendy from LC and hope she has a solution.
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OK! I see what you mean now. The seat post is quite thin and the derailleur hanger is "short" so you have nothing to push the screw against.
Hmm interesting. Though it's not mandatory AFAIK, it brings additional strength and adjustment. I am also planing on using an 105 mechanical groupset on it.
Is the hanger fix by rivets or screws?
In any case let us know what she replied :)
And nice specialized like colours :)
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The di2 Ultegra touchs the frame plate for me
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After reading the 32 pages of this topic and I am really considering buying this frame ! How much was for the frame, no custom paint and shipping to EU ? No price on their website, why ?
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OK! I see what you mean now. The seat post is quite thin and the derailleur hanger is "short" so you have nothing to push the screw against.
The hanger is fixed by 4 screws. So if they could provide a different hanger it could work.
I'll definitely give updates when I know something new.
So far I can't go on with the build. That sucks.
If I have to go with electronic shifting, the build will be mich more expensive than planned. And I also really like mechanical shifting.
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The di2 Ultegra touchs the frame plate for me
Can you send a picture please?
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After reading the 32 pages of this topic and I am really considering buying this frame ! How much was for the frame, no custom paint and shipping to EU ? No price on their website, why ?
I did post an overview of my offer earlier. There you can find the prices.
Other than that you can Mail with Wendy from LC. She responds normally pretty quickly.
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The hanger is fixed by 4 screws. So if they could provide a different hanger it could work.
I'll definitely give updates when I know something new.
So far I can't go on with the build. That sucks.
If I have to go with electronic shifting, the build will be mich more expensive than planned. And I also really like mechanical shifting.
I tasted the electric and it's really great for the settings which offer a lot of possibilities. Without counting on internal wiring, much easier. It's very difficult to go back.
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I tasted the electric and it's really great for the settings which offer a lot of possibilities. Without counting on internal wiring, much easier. It's very difficult to go back.
Yeap! I completely agree. It's like driving an automatic gears car. Notwithstanding the manual still has its advantages, and at the moment comparing a full 105 hydraulic to a di2 is double the price 500vs1000.
I'll be using an old 105 given by a client in this frame. LC advertises it as allowing 4 cables so I'm not expecting it can't handle mechanical shifting. That screw is adding additional support which is always great, not crucial, but great. Replacing the hanger is a solution, yet let's see. Looking forward for PaxiH feedback
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Yeap! I completely agree. It's like driving an automatic gears car. Notwithstanding the manual still has its advantages, and at the moment comparing a full 105 hydraulic to a di2 is double the price 500vs1000.
I'll be using an old 105 given by a client in this frame. LC advertises it as allowing 4 cables so I'm not expecting it can't handle mechanical shifting. That screw is adding additional support which is always great, not crucial, but great. Replacing the hanger is a solution, yet let's see. Looking forward for PaxiH feedback
Unfortunately I can't post anything yesterday. Seems like the Website has some problems. I still can't post pictures for some reason.
I was wrong about the hanger. It isn't screwed. It looks like 2.5mm hex but it is riveted.
Wendy did reply to me and tried to help we're she can. I really appreciate that. But she told me that there is only this hanger version. So I guess I have to go without the stabilizing screw and try to index it somehow. As I'm reading in other forum it is also like that to e.g. Basso frames.
In terms of internal cable routing, I finished that yesterday. With the right tools it was possible but not fun at all ;D
I don't know if it is normal but when I turn the handlebar, there is a hearable rubbing of the cables in the headset area. Should be normal I guess, because the cables need to move somehow when the handlebar is turned. It's my first internally routed frame.
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Looking great. Almost done in 1 day... impressive!
You could have used some dampner on the cables to avoid that rubbing sound. Not sure you are a weight weenie ahah Some ppl end up not putting it because of the 30g extra ;D
As regards indexation I don't think you'll have a major problem with it. Keep us updated and show us the final result on the road too eheh
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Looking great. Almost done in 1 day... impressive!
You could have used some dampner on the cables to avoid that rubbing sound. Not sure you are a weight weenie ahah Some ppl end up not putting it because of the 30g extra ;D
As regards indexation I don't think you'll have a major problem with it. Keep us updated and show us the final result on the road too eheh
Thank you :)
I used some kind of rubber sleeve specific for anti rattle on each cable. It is more that you can hear/feel the movement inside when turning the handlebar. It's not a problem as it will not be noticable while riding I guess.
The wheel set should be delivered tomorrow according to DHL.
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Unfortunately I can't post anything yesterday. Seems like the Website has some problems. I still can't post pictures for some reason.
I was wrong about the hanger. It isn't screwed. It looks like 2.5mm hex but it is riveted.
Wendy did reply to me and tried to help we're she can. I really appreciate that. But she told me that there is only this hanger version. So I guess I have to go without the stabilizing screw and try to index it somehow. As I'm reading in other forum it is also like that to e.g. Basso frames.
In terms of internal cable routing, I finished that yesterday. With the right tools it was possible but not fun at all ;D
I don't know if it is normal but when I turn the handlebar, there is a hearable rubbing of the cables in the headset area. Should be normal I guess, because the cables need to move somehow when the handlebar is turned. It's my first internally routed frame.
Looks great so far. Hope that front mechanical derailleur will work okay. LC should really state that the bike is not designed for mechanical front derailleurs.
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Wendy did reply to me and tried to help we're she can. I really appreciate that. But she told me that there is only this hanger version. So I guess I have to go without the stabilizing screw and try to index it somehow. As I'm reading in other forum it is also like that to e.g. Basso frames.
It seems only recent shimano derailleurs have this "stabilizing screw". Don't worry front derailleurs work perfectly without this feature.
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It seems only recent shimano derailleurs have this "stabilizing screw". Don't worry front derailleurs work perfectly without this feature.
I don't know about it working perfectly without that stabilizing screw. The screw keeps the derailleur aligned for more consistent shifting for longer without it rubbing
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I don't know about it working perfectly without that stabilizing screw. The screw keeps the derailleur aligned for more consistent shifting for longer without it rubbing
Now I glued the little metal plate from Shimano like this.
I don't think it will hold very long time, but the feature of the screw kinda works ;D
There would be also the possibility to glue (2k) a little metal plate onto the hanger. But I don't know if that is necessary.
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Now I glued the little metal plate from Shimano like this.
I don't think it will hold very long time, but the feature of the screw kinda works ;D
There would be also the possibility to glue (2k) a little metal plate onto the hanger. But I don't know if that is necessary.
Wow! Good job! Hope it holds
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On a di2 Ultegra, this screw is already at the extreme limit of the plate
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I finished the Build today after receiving the wheel set.
I've also ridden the first few kilometers to set every adjustment and get a first feel for the bike. The build with pedals and bottle mounts is about 7,5kg.
The mechanical shifting works fine. It only needs some fine tuning. The bike feels very good and stiff. I have to say that I do not really have a comparison. Only my aluminum gravelbike (Trek Checkpoint). I'll also post my impressions after a few longer rides.
I think the frame fits me pretty well with size 54. I'm 175cm with inseem of 82. But after only 10km I don't know exactly.
My personal Pros and Cons so far:
+ Good frame and parts quality. No bigger problems yet.
+ The build was good with some smaller problems.
- front derailleur hanger not so good for mechanical Shimano due to the missing support for the stabilizer screw.
- paint quality is okay (small imperfections here and there) but the clear coat is very thin so that I already have some smaller scratches. I think the paintjob should be clear coated at least 2 times.
As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.
All in all I'm very happy how it turned out and looking forward to the next rides. The whole build was about 2500 Euro. For that price I can't buy a branded Frame with carbon wheels and group set.
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Thats one of the quickest mountings I've seen ahaha.
Looking good. Hope you enjoy ur rides.
Indeed thinness seems to be a potential problem there. Let's see how they hold up.
As regards the pricing I think u can manage to find builds like that on canyon for example and adding some cheap carbon wheels. Most likely weight would be a bit heavier but not that much.
In any case I believe it's all in the experience and learning rather than on the price
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I finished the Build today after receiving the wheel set.
I've also ridden the first few kilometers to set every adjustment and get a first feel for the bike. The build with pedals and bottle mounts is about 7,5kg.
The mechanical shifting works fine. It only needs some fine tuning. The bike feels very good and stiff. I have to say that I do not really have a comparison. Only my aluminum gravelbike (Trek Checkpoint). I'll also post my impressions after a few longer rides.
I think the frame fits me pretty well with size 54. I'm 175cm with inseem of 82. But after only 10km I don't know exactly.
My personal Pros and Cons so far:
+ Good frame and parts quality. No bigger problems yet.
+ The build was good with some smaller problems.
- front derailleur hanger not so good for mechanical Shimano due to the missing support for the stabilizer screw.
- paint quality is okay (small imperfections here and there) but the clear coat is very thin so that I already have some smaller scratches. I think the paintjob should be clear coated at least 2 times.
As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.
All in all I'm very happy how it turned out and looking forward to the next rides. The whole build was about 2500 Euro. For that price I can't buy a branded Frame with carbon wheels and group set.
It's clear, you're going to beat all your KOMs. We're not going to miss you with this red bike in the green meadows
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I finished the Build today after receiving the wheel set.
I've also ridden the first few kilometers to set every adjustment and get a first feel for the bike. The build with pedals and bottle mounts is about 7,5kg.
The mechanical shifting works fine. It only needs some fine tuning. The bike feels very good and stiff. I have to say that I do not really have a comparison. Only my aluminum gravelbike (Trek Checkpoint). I'll also post my impressions after a few longer rides.
I think the frame fits me pretty well with size 54. I'm 175cm with inseem of 82. But after only 10km I don't know exactly.
My personal Pros and Cons so far:
+ Good frame and parts quality. No bigger problems yet.
+ The build was good with some smaller problems.
- front derailleur hanger not so good for mechanical Shimano due to the missing support for the stabilizer screw.
- paint quality is okay (small imperfections here and there) but the clear coat is very thin so that I already have some smaller scratches. I think the paintjob should be clear coated at least 2 times.
As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.
All in all I'm very happy how it turned out and looking forward to the next rides. The whole build was about 2500 Euro. For that price I can't buy a branded Frame with carbon wheels and group set.
. Looks great! Sad to say they definitely don't clear coat but rather buff the color to a gloss finish instead. Only if you order a chameleon color it seems that it's clear coated due to the process of painting Chameleon colors
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. Looks great! Sad to say they definitely don't clear coat but rather buff the color to a gloss finish instead. Only if you order a chameleon color it seems that it's clear coated due to the process of painting Chameleon colors
Yes, you are probably right.
After knowing that, I would definitely choose a chameleon color, if ordering again.
So maybe a good tip for others who are interested in this frame.
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Short update:
I did my first 50km ride today with best weather.
It was great and the bike feels amazing.
The only thing I have to get used to is the Free hub sound.
As it is a 36T Ratchet system, the sound is not "round". It's a little alternating which seems to be normal with ratchet Free hubs. But for me it sounds not so nice. Maybe I'll put more grease inside to get it less loud :D
It's LCs C52DB-RD28-44C wheel set.
I'm being very picky here...
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looks cool.
U still think position is ok? or do you feel stretched?
How much did u pay for the shipping of frame + wheels?
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looks cool.
U still think position is ok? or do you feel stretched?
How much did u pay for the shipping of frame + wheels?
As my gravelbike has also relatively sporty geometry, the feel here is very near to that. My gravelbike on paper have 12mm longer reach and higher stack. I definitely feel that on LCR017 the stack is lower which wasn't uncomfortable so far. I never had a bike fit so I don't know my perfect measures. All I can say is that I don't had any pain or bigger discomfort on today's ride.
I thought that LC give more stem spacers with the frame.
If I would order again, I would definitely ask for more spacers, as they only deliver one with 10mm and one with 5mm. I then would increase the high about 10mm I think.
Total shipping including EU taxes, for both packages was 287 USD.
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Short update:
I did my first 50km ride today with best weather.
It was great and the bike feels amazing.
The only thing I have to get used to is the Free hub sound.
As it is a 36T Ratchet system, the sound is not "round". It's a little alternating which seems to be normal with ratchet Free hubs. But for me it sounds not so nice. Maybe I'll put more grease inside to get it less loud :D
It's LCs C52DB-RD28-44C wheel set.
I'm being very picky here...
Looks great, happy riding!
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Finally, I received the pictures from Carol at LC. The paint job looks amazing, and I was promised that they will ship the frame tomorrow. The entire process experienced significant delays compared to the promised lead times, but I hope the wait will be worth it. I will post the final mounted pictures with custom decals (which are yet to be designed).
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Finally, I received the pictures from Carol at LC. The paint job looks amazing, and I was promised that they will ship the frame tomorrow. The entire process experienced significant delays compared to the promised lead times, but I hope the wait will be worth it. I will post the final mounted pictures with custom decals (which are yet to be designed).
You will absolutely receive it in time for winter :D
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I see that now these frames have a hole under the front derailleur hanger
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You will absolutely receive it in time for winter :D
Lucky me in my Spain region, we have almost "summer" all the year long :-)
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I see that now these frames have a hole under the front derailleur hanger
I guess it is for the DI2 cable
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Got my first pics too! Told it will be shipping by end of the week. Fingers crossed! I think it came out pretty nice! Here’s the pics! FYI was only able to upload one at a time then had to go back and modify the post. Don’t know if that’s normal for the site.
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Got my first pics too! Told it will be shipping by end of the week. Fingers crossed! I think it came out pretty nice! Here’s the pics! FYI was only able to upload one at a time then had to go back and modify the post. Don’t know if that’s normal for the site.
Looks very nice!
Yes, I experienced the same issue with uploading the pictures.
Interestingly your frame doesn't have the hole for FD Cable.
Same as all the frames before :o
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How to route the di2 cable if there is no hole under the front derailleur? Through the hole for mechanical behind?
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That's what I did. Plus you'll need to secure the DI2 wire so it doesn't rub on the wheel.
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That's what I did. Plus you'll need to secure the DI2 wire so it does rub on the wheel.
I think it is a little strange, that some frames have this hole an the most doesn't. For electrical group set you'll normally need it.
Not the end of the world but still strange, because the say the frame is for mechanical and electrical shifting.
They should do the hole always and provide a rubber grommet zu Close it in case of mechanical shifter.
What did you use to secure the wire?
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How to route the di2 cable if there is no hole under the front derailleur? Through the hole for mechanical behind?
Sorry to have raised this problem which certainly does not have one. For my part, I don't have a hole under the FD. So I went through the space provided at the bottom of the seat tube. I have a Shimano Di2. A part is provided for Shimano or Sram. On the other hand, so that the electrical wire could pass through this plastic part, I had to slightly enlarge the hole in this plastic part screwed to the frame. A little electrical tape on the electrical wire closes the small space to prevent the passage of water. Very simple overall
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Maybe it has to do with the batches in which the frames were made. Maybe the first set of batches didn't have it and the most recent ones have it. It's the only logic I can find (supposing it's not frame size)
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Maybe it has to do with the batches in which the frames were made. Maybe the first set of batches didn't have it and the most recent ones have it. It's the only logic I can find (supposing it's not frame size)
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too.
I reported the problem with the FD Hanger (with Shimano mechanical FD) to Wendy. She said that she give this information to their engineer. So maybe if they think it necessary, they'll make some changes here too.
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I think it is a little strange, that some frames have this hole an the most doesn't. For electrical group set you'll normally need it.
Not the end of the world but still strange, because the say the frame is for mechanical and electrical shifting.
They should do the hole always and provide a rubber grommet zu Close it in case of mechanical shifter.
What did you use to secure the wire?
Couldn't find another solution and used a small piece of black electrical tape.
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Basic issues like this make lc look amateurish. Brand new frame design but with no di2 port...
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She said that she give this information to their engineer. So maybe if they think it necessary, they'll make some changes here too.
When I initially inquired LC about this frame, their response started with the following:
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO."
If you're advertising your flagship road frame in this manner, how the heck did their engineers forget to include a proper Di2 port? Especially when my Yishun frame from their sister company included one. That is quite the oversight.
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When I initially inquired LC about this frame, their response started with the following:
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO."
If you're advertising your flagship road frame in this manner, how the heck did their engineers forget to include a proper Di2 port? Especially when my Yishun frame from their sister company included one. That is quite the oversight.
Product could've been so much better with three dollars of oversight and quality control. Guess the consumer is the unpaid test pilot
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I completed the order today. Just need to wait for the newt batch of 380x90 handlebar !
I paid 767 USD for the frame + BB + extra rear mech hanger + shipping to EU.
I will post some pictures when I will get my hand on the frame :)
I just the size will be ok (Im 170 and took the size 52).
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Product could've been so much better with three dollars of oversight and quality control. Guess the consumer is the unpaid test pilot
Yes, that is bad. I can't believe that the missing hole was a mistake by the engineering. That would be really stupid to be honest. Maybe it was a mistake with the manufacturing. But who knows.
My bike still looks and feels amazing and I'm so far very happy with it. Maybe they'll improve the future manufactured frames. We'll see.
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I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:
- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork
thanks
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I had chatgpt estimate the downtube for me and it came up with 40mmnear the head tube, and 60mm near the bb and it worked out pretty well for me (see all the frame pics above, attaching the downtube shot here).
Don't really have measurements for anything else, but they did a pretty good job with the graphics I provided (vector graphic pdf files are their preference).
Of course anyone with a frame, a piece of string and a little time could probably do better :P
Hope that helps!
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Ehehe thanks.
I'll wait then to see if someone can give all I asked (and it was quite a bit ahha)
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I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:
- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork
thanks
Hope that helps.
Viewed from side:
Downtube: 50mm bottom, 45mm top, width 60-40mm (from downside)
Toptube: 20mm bottom, top 30mm, width 30-50mm (from top side)
Seattube: 45 bottom, 45 top (only the upper area)
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Hope that helps.
Viewed from side:
Downtube: 50mm bottom, 45mm top, width 60-40mm (from downside)
Toptube: 20mm bottom, top 30mm, width 30-50mm (from top side)
Seattube: 45 bottom, 45 top (only the upper area)
Thanks a million
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When I initially inquired LC about this frame, their response started with the following:
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO."
If you're advertising your flagship road frame in this manner, how the heck did their engineers forget to include a proper Di2 port? Especially when my Yishun frame from their sister company included one. That is quite the oversight.
Isn't the Yushan frame a different mold?
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Received my frame and wheels today :) paint job looks stunning but as others mentioned I doubt it’s even clear coated at all and I’m seriously concidering applying one before I build up the bike. And the frame had a random additional painted stripe I had not requested, but it looks nice so probably some finishing touch of the painter ;D
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Received my frame and wheels today :) paint job looks stunning but as others mentioned I doubt it’s even clear coated at all and I’m seriously concidering applying one before I build up the bike. And the frame had a random additional painted stripe I had not requested, but it looks nice so probably some finishing touch of the painter ;D
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That's odd that you got an extra stripe but I doubt it was something that the painter just added.
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Finally, I received the pictures from Carol at LC. The paint job looks amazing, and I was promised that they will ship the frame tomorrow. The entire process experienced significant delays compared to the promised lead times, but I hope the wait will be worth it. I will post the final mounted pictures with custom decals (which are yet to be designed).
This looks very nice!
Which color did you use for the 'red' parts of the frame?
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This looks very nice!
Which color did you use for the 'red' parts of the frame?
Should be the Ferrari Red like on my Frameset.
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My frame also arrived last week and I build it up in around two days. I‘m pretty happy with the outcome. Yesterday I had a short shakedown ride and have to adjust the FD and front break. Just some random things I noticed:
- The frame looks shiny, so I‘m inclined to think it has some form of clear coat on it. But I‘m no expert, so I could be wrong.
- I purchased a ZTTO T47 68mm DUB BB, which came with two spacers (2mm labeled „road“ and 4,5mm labeled „MTB“). I was only able to install the Rival crank with the „MTB“ spacer on the drive side. There is no notable play in the cranks and they spin ok. Although I‘m not sure, whether this is installed according to spec. Anyone else installed a dub crank on this frame and remembers which spacers he used?
- The brake hoses were fairly easy to route through the integrated cockpit. However, the internal foam housing damping went up the downtube and created a creaking, when turning the bars so I had to remove the cranks and pull down the foam tube. Now I just get the slightest cable noice when turning the bars.
- For the installation of the rear Rival brake callipers you need 32mm Flat Mount bolts. 27mm are too short and 37mm are too long. I installed 37mm and used 5mm washers as a temporary solution.
- In both the Rival callipers the pistons had to be mobilized as one piston was stuck. Then the breaks could be mounted properly, the surfaces on frame and fork seemed phased.
- There are no grommets included to close the holes in the frame when using wireless shifting.
- The FD was rubbing in the big ring for a lot of the gears, I ll have to look into it and make sure, this is just an adjustment issue and not connected to the installation of the BB.
- There is a tiny imperfection in the paint job of which I was informed by LC before shipping and I was asked whether I‘m ok with it or whether I wanted it fixed (further delaying the process). I was ok and received a free bottle cage and mech hanger. Couldnt find any other imperfections so I‘m well happy on how they played this.
- The hubs are super quiet. Pedestrians wont hear you coming on these ;)
- Shipment was delayed a couple of times.
I will report back, when I have a few more miles in.
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Nice colors and paint scheme!
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As already mentioned by other people the carbon in some areas (downtube, toptube) Is very thin. You can easily flex it with your thumb. I don't know if that is normal for that kind of frames. I just want to say it.
Isn't that super scary? Not sure if I would feel safe 40mph downhill on a frame I can flex with my fingers ;D
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Isn't that super scary? Not sure if I would feel safe 40mph downhill on a frame I can flex with my fingers ;D
Other light weight frames from western brands also have flex on individual tubes . It's a box so its strength is derived from the entire structure not just from one individual plane from one side of one tube.
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@ PaxiH Heard similar said about bikes like (high modulus carbon) the Sworks Tarmac SL7, SL8. Seka Exceed RDC, Cannondale LAB71 SuperSix Evo. Racall in a cam nicholls examination of the seka Exceed RDC it was pointed out that one needs to be more careful with these frames because, vs a low modulous carbin bike, they won't fare as well in a crash
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Isn't the Yushan frame a different mold?
I think they mean "LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also copied the bottom part of the supersixevo seat tube."
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Isn't that super scary? Not sure if I would feel safe 40mph downhill on a frame I can flex with my fingers ;D
It's not like you can flex it much but it is possible.
On the first kilometers I was riding a little bit careful because of that. Even if I've read that it is normal for many lightweight frames.
As the bike feels rock solid while riding it I now have no worries to ride at higher speeds.
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Nice colors and paint scheme!
Thanks! I also really liked how it turned out. I just send some pictures of the paint scheme and the decals and explained where I wanted them to be placed. Afterwards I received a sketch up of the design to confirm it. Quite easy, even without any design skills.
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- There is a tiny imperfection in the paint job of which I was informed by LC before shipping and I was asked whether I‘m ok with it or whether I wanted it fixed (further delaying the process). I was ok and received a free bottle cage and mech hanger. Couldnt find any other imperfections so I‘m well happy on how they played this.
I wish I had that opportunity ahaha I went super basic with the colours and now I'd have done sth wilder... Can't change the colour now according to Wendy
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Thanks for this! Out of curiosity, what size is your frame? Hoping my 58 will finally ship tomorrow or Thursday ... fingers crossed ... not getting impatient at all ... nope! ... :P
- For the installation of the rear Rival brake callipers you need 32mm Flat Mount bolts. 27mm are too short and 37mm are too long. I installed 37mm and used 5mm washers as a temporary solution.
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Thanks for this! Out of curiosity, what size is your frame? Hoping my 58 will finally ship tomorrow or Thursday ... fingers crossed ... not getting impatient at all ... nope! ... :P
Frame seize is 56cm, weighed around 980g on my kitchen scales. The wheelset (C67DB 45mm) weighs 1264g.
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Thanks for this! Out of curiosity, what size is your frame? Hoping my 58 will finally ship tomorrow or Thursday ... fingers crossed ... not getting impatient at all ... nope! ... :P
Strange. You should have had yours for long. U took the last one in stock and I was waiting for the new batch. According to Wendy, mine is already being painted...
Well I hope there aren't any delays in mine.
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With that in mind I got a feeling someone else got the last one in that batch ;-)
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I just got a text by Wendy from Lightcarbon. They will join Eurobike this year in Frankfurt, 3 to 7 July 2024.
It's great chance to friends from Europe to have a closely look on their product.
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Hi everyone, I'm considering buying the LCR017 but still uncertain about the color, has anyone seen what white chameleon looks like in real life ? (Chameleon 7207 on Lightcarbon website)
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Definitely get a chameleon color over the plain color
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Hi everyone, I'm considering buying the LCR017 but still uncertain about the color, has anyone seen what white chameleon looks like in real life ? (Chameleon 7207 on Lightcarbon website)
Same advice as dinorello. Get a chameleon color because of the clear coat and better paint protection because of that.
I've not seen the chameleon white yet.
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I haven't seen the color in person, but there's a video on YouTube showing the color LCB 7207;
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=v3-La5Orlzk
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Thanks for this! Out of curiosity, what size is your frame? Hoping my 58 will finally ship tomorrow or Thursday ... fingers crossed ... not getting impatient at all ... nope! ... :P
Did you end up getting any update?
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Yup, finally shipped last Thursday. If I'm deciphering the China Post updates correctly, it's been on 2 planes so far ... but I expect it won't get here until the end of next week at the earliest. Don't worry, I'll be irrationally stalking the tracking information incessantly with great diligence until it arrives! :P
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Ahahah I'll ask her tomorrow then about mine.
Still annoyed about having chosen the basic colour ahaha. In any case judging by the comments I should have painted it here in a local shop ahah.
Keep us updated
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Ahahah I'll ask her tomorrow then about mine.
Still annoyed about having chosen the basic colour ahaha. In any case judging by the comments I should have painted it here in a local shop ahah.
Keep us updated
The paint look and quality in general is good and looks awesome. It is just the missing clear coat.
The best would be to clear coat it DIY when you have the possibility for that.
Or order as raw and get it to a local painter. But this will be mich more expensive. At least at my location.
I'm sure you'll still love the bike when it is build :D
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The bike came with 2cm of spacers, and i need 1cm extra. Anyone tried/bought additional spacers and which one fit?
also i cant figure out where these rubber parts are for...
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The bike came with 2cm of spacers, and i need 1cm extra. Anyone tried/bought additional spacers and which one fit?
also i cant figure out where these rubber parts are for...
Email lite carbon directly and ask them for additional spacers .The rubber parts are for the battery on the di2 system that fits in the seat post
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Email lite carbon directly and ask them for additional spacers .The rubber parts are for the battery on the di2 system that fits in the seat post
Thanks makes, sense first time setting up di2. Seems of the two only the triangular part fits is that normal?
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Thanks makes, sense first time setting up di2. Seems of the two only the triangular part fits is that normal?
With a colson on battery , it's more practical
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Thanks makes, sense first time setting up di2. Seems of the two only the triangular part fits is that normal?
Yeah I didn't wind up using it because it didn't fit.. seems odd that they would include it when it wasn't really designed for that particular seat post on the lc17
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With a colson on battery , it's more practical
Would a colson battery be a few AA batteries in a case like the Chinese group sets have?
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Crap I was going along building up the bike bit by bit. Routed all the cables and then wanted to mount the bottom bracket… and the drive side is not good, the bottom bracket simply doesn’t catch the thread and go in. I emailed Wendy for a solution but I fear it needs to be replaced or atleast rethreaded
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Crap I was going along building up the bike bit by bit. Routed all the cables and then wanted to mount the bottom bracket… and the drive side is not good, the bottom bracket simply doesn’t catch the thread and go in. I emailed Wendy for a solution but I fear it needs to be replaced or atleast rethreaded
Could it be put in backwards? Have you tried turning it the other way?
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For my part, I installed a Kactus bottom bracket. The letter R was on the left and L on the right (LOL). Obviously, I knew how to correct it. I sent an email to Kactus to report the problem and they admitted that there was a printing problem on certain batches
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Just dropped it off at the bicycle shop, they also couldn’t make it fit and the thread seems to be the problem. I get a final answer on tuesdsy if they can fix it.
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Could it be put in backwards? Have you tried turning it the other way?
The drive side bottom bracket on most bikes uses a left-hand thread, which means it tightens counterclockwise and loosens clockwise. This is called "English" threading, which is the common standard for bottom bracket shells. The non-drive side (left side) of the bottom bracket uses a right-hand thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counterclockwise.
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The drive side bottom bracket on most bikes uses a left-hand thread, which means it tightens counterclockwise and loosens clockwise. This is called "English" threading, which is the common standard for bottom bracket shells. The non-drive side (left side) of the bottom bracket uses a right-hand thread, which tightens clockwise and removes counterclockwise.
I know and this is clearly marked on the bottom bracket I got. It doesn’t even go in a bit it doesn’t grip the thread it’s as if it’s the wrong size. The non drive side goes in smoothly btw. Haven’t heard back from Wendy (about this and some paint issues I discovered while working with the bike) normally she was very quick with her response let’s hope that’s not a bad omen.
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That sucks... you'd hope they'd at least check the bottom bracket threads prior to shipping out the frame.
I understand now why most Western brands who manufacturer in China paint their frames in house ..
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I know and this is clearly marked on the bottom bracket I got. It doesn’t even go in a bit it doesn’t grip the thread it’s as if it’s the wrong size. The non drive side goes in smoothly btw. Haven’t heard back from Wendy (about this and some paint issues I discovered while working with the bike) normally she was very quick with her response let’s hope that’s not a bad omen.
Please post pictures. i want to believe it's user error, because otherwise it's the worst QC control in recent history, and Lightcarbon is very well regarded. And they know we discuss their stuff on here.
you may want to message madpec on YT, as he's a bit of a guru at facing & machining bottom brackets, especially T47 now that he has the (insanely expensive) tool.
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I dropped it off at the bicycle shop yesterday. The head mechanic was off and they open on again on Tuesday so I left it there. I’ll get back when I get their assessment.
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You mean how he faced the SL8 and voided the warranty of the frame? I trust that idiot as far as I can throw him.
Seems like you're going a bit too hard on mapdec when all he's doing is cleaning the excess paint off the BB shell. Yes he does get a bit granular on shit sometimes but he's not an idiot and his channel offers good content overall
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Do you have a link to the YT video you're referencing?
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Finally got my frame today! Looks really nice. Very little if any overspray anywhere, and almost all the threads were clean (a little burring on the through axle/hanger threads).
Now to build … one oversight on my part: SRAM DUB spacers? Anyone else get this frame with the t47 bb supplied by light carbon? According to SRAM for road chain line, it requires 1 3mm spacer on the non drive side. Has this been others’ experience? Thanks in advance for any help there.
Here are some early pics of the frame. The racing green is just a great color, and the decals are nice and clean. There’s some “noise” from imperfect masking between the green and pearl white in a couple places but nothing anyone other than me or you all might notice!
Next post will be with the full build … think I have everything except the spacers, and some damping foam for the internal hoses. Think I will also do another layer of clear coat before really building it … any pics with parts are just slapped together, didn’t even grease any threads! The horror, I know!
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is this the ferrari red LC offers? nevertheless looks great!
Finally, I received the pictures from Carol at LC. The paint job looks amazing, and I was promised that they will ship the frame tomorrow. The entire process experienced significant delays compared to the promised lead times, but I hope the wait will be worth it. I will post the final mounted pictures with custom decals (which are yet to be designed).
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is this the ferrari red LC offers? nevertheless looks great!
This is the Ferrari Red.
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Do you have a link to the YT video you're referencing?
This is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=4s
Don't listen to this PLA guy he always just complains and is controversial.
As Mapdec explains in his video, this is a offshore worker, so he doesn't have time to deal with warranty ect. Plus I doubt specialized would ever warranty over this issue...
For context I have an Sworks Epic evo frame which has the EXACT same problem, the BB alignment is awful the crank needs to be hammered in, and even pushes the plastic bearing cover off when I push it in... Getting it out is as well a massive pain.
I've shown this to my local specialized dealer which claims nothing is wrong, and that this will not be a warranty case. I would have mine fixed by Mapdec if he wasn't UK based :/
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You mean how he faced the SL8 and voided the warranty of the frame? I trust that idiot as far as I can throw him.
Any update on this issue
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I've had to delete a couple of comments over the past couple of days... just a friendly reminder to keep discourse respectful and avoid personal insults and name-calling. Lots of places on the internet to go and talk shit if that's what you want to do, just not here. Thanks.
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I dropped it off at the bicycle shop yesterday. The head mechanic was off and they open on again on Tuesday so I left it there. I’ll get back when I get their assessment.
Well this was interesting the shop which i was always pretty happy with called me with their assessment, the thread was wrongly milled, it was undeep and in the wrong direction and then asked if it chinese and then refused even though they had the gear to attempt any repair. While picking up the frame i got another remark about trash chinese frames. Back home i send over some video en photo's to light carbon and they simply said its done by cnc it cant be the wrong direction. I was kind of annoyed but then decided to make another video while retracing the thread to show it was in the wrong direction and while doing this i found out the thread was in the right direction... then did the same with the elvedes cups and low and behold these "dutch quality" pieces of crap where both right threaded. I went to another local bike shop (the previous shop lost a customer after the last encounter) and picked up a praxis T47 BB. And yep it fits and goes right in.
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That was easy!
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Great. So it was, indeed, user error.
Happy riding!
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Build is complete! Thunderstorms and normal life are preventing the first ride but I think we are good to go! ... Except some front derailleur run which I will get into in a minute.
So far as the build, the only "crappy" bit was the threading on the derailleur hanger was unsmooth, but not unusable by any means. For the "normal crappy" I think it should be obligatory to tip our caps to the mechanics who have to deal with integrated cockpits on the daily ... chapeau!
So, 2 problems:
1. The BB provided by LightCarbon is fine, except there are no spacers included with it. Would have been nice to know ahead of time. You have been warned :)
2. Front derailleur alignment. I can't seem to turn the Sram Axis Rival (normal, not wide) FD far enough so it's in line with the chainrings, pretty much ensuring chain rub on the smallest cogs while in the big ring. Any tricks people here can share? I'm kinda leaning toward grinding down one side of the curved washer to allow a little more clearance, anyone think of a reason this is a fundamentally terrible idea? I think even .25-.5mm on the inside edge should be enough for me to line things up. If it matters, I ended up using a single 4.5mm spacer on the drive side, wasn't able to get close to lining things up, and there really isn't enough clearance with the frame without any spacers drive-side.
Let me know what you think of the build, and if you have some suggestions about the FD, I'm all ears!
Thanks!
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I would definitely think about getting a brand name bottom bracket like wheels manufacturing. The BB gets the brunt if the torque and you want it to have some longevity
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Well, I’ll start with getting the right bottom bracket … while continuing to be driven nuts by the fact that nothing is adjusting right, I notice the printing on the bb: BB3047. It’s a 30mm damn bottom bracket! Off to the LBS tomorrow! At least they only charged me $10 for the damn thing!
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Mechanically I think you can grind the FD washers if it can fix your issue. As long as there is plenty of material around the bolt hole still, the bolt should be able to spread the force and do its thing. Careful not to change the shape of the washer while grinding it, because that might then cause other alignment problems.
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I would definitely think about getting a brand name bottom bracket like wheels manufacturing. The BB gets the brunt if the torque and you want it to have some longevity
I bought and assembled a cheap (13€) BB from Zitto from AliExpress. Thought about testing it and if it is bad replacing it with something more expensive.
My problem was, that the T47 BBs are pretty rare in the german shops and also very expensive.
So far the quality of the Zitto BB is seems great! The bearing felt good and the cranks are spinning very, very free and well. Also no play in the crank/BB so far.
So cheap must not be bad. But I only have like 300km on the bike yet.
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Cheap isn’t necessarily bad… isn’t that why we’re all here?
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Cheap isn’t necessarily bad… isn’t that why we’re all here?
Hahahaha...spot on! I still prefer shimano over Ltwoo groupsets
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dont over complicate it. the T47 standard makes mounting the cups that hold the bearings very easy and assures good alignment. The bearings them selfs have some quality differences but certainly not 200 euros worth of difference.
I went with Praxis. its way better then the elvedes BB that besides not fitting didnt have any trace of grease. These come with some loctite on the thread and pre aplied grease for the axle. I got them for 50 euro's at a local bikeshop. but i see online they can be found for even less like this german based webshop: https://www.bike24.nl/producten/272474?source=SBP&indexName=production_SEARCH_INDEX_NL&objectId=272474&queryId=b9d792503aa25b7f4d3d7200318231ba&userToken=3f2f54e6-6ae2-413c-ac9e-ff96baa5b254
https://praxiscycles.com/nl/product/t47-eb-shimano/
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Now I have a problem with my frame.
I wanted to give it a good clean after yesterday's ride. But I am not able to remove the back wheel.
The axle is kinda stuck somewhere. It is turning freely, the threads in the derailleur hanger are fine. The wheel itself is moving on the axle. But still I'm not able to remove the axle from the frame. Never hat such an issue.
I can reassemble it and everything is fine. Just can't get the axle out. I've even tried WD-40 and tapping the axle with a wooden stick and soft hammer.
Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?
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Now I have a problem with my frame.
I wanted to give it a good clean after yesterday's ride. But I am not able to remove the back wheel.
The axle is kinda stuck somewhere. It is turning freely, the threads in the derailleur hanger are fine. The wheel itself is moving on the axle. But still I'm not able to remove the axle from the frame. Never hat such an issue.
I can reassemble it and everything is fine. Just can't get the axle out. I've even tried WD-40 and tapping the axle with a wooden stick and soft hammer.
Anyone got an idea what is the problem here?
Is it still in the thread? If it is not then the only way is brute force it out. Possibly the axle is bend?
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Is it still in the thread? If it is not then the only way is brute force it out. Possibly the axle is bend?
No, it is not threaded anymore. I can even push the rear stays away from each other.
I've tried to hammer it with some Force. But the axle is not moving to the non drive side.
I think that if the axle is bend, I would face problems while riding?
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Dunno I don’t see how it could be. But if you can unscrew it the rest of the way is through the wheel axel and that should be smooth bushing.
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Dunno I don’t see how it could be. But if you can unscrew it the rest of the way is through the wheel axel and that should be smooth bushing.
Yes, that is what I'm thinking too. I don't understand it to be honest. Maybe the fit on the non driver side for the head of the axle is to firm, so the axle head has gone into the carbon.
I really don't know ans don't understand why I can't tap it out.
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Is it still in the thread? If it is not then the only way is brute force it out. Possibly the axle is bend?
Try loosening the set screw on the rear dropout before removing the rear axle
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I also have the problem. Now i lossen the rear axle 2-3 rotations and hit the non drive side rear stay once. Then i can unsrew the axle. The head/washer gets stuck in the carbon cutout.
Second problem is the water in the frame after a ride in the rain.
I will drill a hole under the BB to drain the water. Until now i drain the water with the rear derailleur hole. Last time it was 150ml of water. The water even damaged the BB bearings.
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I also have the problem. Now i lossen the rear axle 2-3 rotations and hit the non drive side rear stay once. Then i can unsrew the axle. The head/washer gets stuck in the carbon cutout.
Second problem is the water in the frame after a ride in the rain.
I will drill a hole under the BB to drain the water. Until now i drain the water with the rear derailleur hole. Last time it was 150ml of water. The water even damaged the BB bearings.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that tomorrow.
I was also thinking that it must be something like the axle stucking in the carbon cut out. I think it is the same problem with my frame.
My frame have a tiny hole under the BB for water drainage.
Did your frame miss this hole?
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Actually I tried it right now and it was working after a few attempts. Seems like the fit of the axle washer in the frame cut out is really tight.
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Scrap out the paint before reinstalling axle
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dont over complicate it. the T47 standard makes mounting the cups that hold the bearings very easy and assures good alignment. The bearings them selfs have some quality differences but certainly not 200 euros worth of difference.
I went with Praxis. its way better then the elvedes BB that besides not fitting didnt have any trace of grease. These come with some loctite on the thread and pre aplied grease for the axle. I got them for 50 euro's at a local bikeshop. but i see online they can be found for even less like this german based webshop: https://www.bike24.nl/producten/272474?source=SBP&indexName=production_SEARCH_INDEX_NL&objectId=272474&queryId=b9d792503aa25b7f4d3d7200318231ba&userToken=3f2f54e6-6ae2-413c-ac9e-ff96baa5b254
https://praxiscycles.com/nl/product/t47-eb-shimano/
Yeah, I ordered the SRAM one through my LBS. $45 and I am sure it will do just fine. Decided to absolutely not overcomplicate it and just wait until they can get it instead of scramble for something from somewhere, if you know what I mean ;-)
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I asked Wendy to buy some extra headset spacers but postage is 39$ :o anyone found any compatible spacers?
This set looks compatible: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQFEjbt
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Send that link to big Wendy and ask her to confirm. Fitment
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I asked Wendy to buy some extra headset spacers but postage is 39$ :o anyone found any compatible spacers?
This set looks compatible: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQFEjbt
39$ for a few plastic spacers. What a bargain ;D
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I bought and assembled a cheap (13€) BB from Zitto from AliExpress. Thought about testing it and if it is bad replacing it with something more expensive.
My problem was, that the T47 BBs are pretty rare in the german shops and also very expensive.
So far the quality of the Zitto BB is seems great! The bearing felt good and the cranks are spinning very, very free and well. Also no play in the crank/BB so far.
So cheap must not be bad. But I only have like 300km on the bike yet.
I also bought a cheap Scenicx from aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005443737998.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.133.78ff5c5fYtLnV1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
It has now covered 2,200 km and I have no problems whatsoever.
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Build is complete! Thunderstorms and normal life are preventing the first ride but I think we are good to go! ... Except some front derailleur run which I will get into in a minute.
So far as the build, the only "crappy" bit was the threading on the derailleur hanger was unsmooth, but not unusable by any means. For the "normal crappy" I think it should be obligatory to tip our caps to the mechanics who have to deal with integrated cockpits on the daily ... chapeau!
So, 2 problems:
1. The BB provided by LightCarbon is fine, except there are no spacers included with it. Would have been nice to know ahead of time. You have been warned :)
2. Front derailleur alignment. I can't seem to turn the Sram Axis Rival (normal, not wide) FD far enough so it's in line with the chainrings, pretty much ensuring chain rub on the smallest cogs while in the big ring. Any tricks people here can share? I'm kinda leaning toward grinding down one side of the curved washer to allow a little more clearance, anyone think of a reason this is a fundamentally terrible idea? I think even .25-.5mm on the inside edge should be enough for me to line things up. If it matters, I ended up using a single 4.5mm spacer on the drive side, wasn't able to get close to lining things up, and there really isn't enough clearance with the frame without any spacers drive-side.
Let me know what you think of the build, and if you have some suggestions about the FD, I'm all ears!
Thanks!
I have the same problem with Rival AXS FD. While in the big ring, the chain starts to rub in the easier gears. Ordered the Sram FD Setup tool and will see whether this puts the FD in proper alignment. At the moment it looks like the FD markings are over the chainrings. But my vision could be crocked.
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I also bought a cheap Scenicx from aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005443737998.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.133.78ff5c5fYtLnV1&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
It has now covered 2,200 km and I have no problems whatsoever.
Also got the BB from Ztto and cant report anything bad thus far.
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Anyone had trouble with the supplied bearings? One of them came apart i put it back together but the seal isnt flush. So im ordering some new ones was wondering which brand to buy.
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Anyone had trouble with the supplied bearings? One of them came apart i put it back together but the seal isnt flush. So im ordering some new ones was wondering which brand to buy.
Mine seem fine.
Got a question on the cable routing for those who are runing mechanical groupsets. Do you guys run cable housing inside the whole frame?
I'm running the front derailleur one now and curve is a bit steep near the bb, so I'd say it's best to do so, but I wonder if I'm not overdoing it.
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Got a question on the cable routing for those who are runing mechanical groupsets. Do you guys run cable housing inside the whole frame?
Yes, I run a outer cable over the complete length and used the so called SRAM cable guide (even if it is Shimano FD) to end the outer cable inside the frame with a Shimano end cap. Then I used a cable liner to protect the open cable from dirt and water. See attached picture.
Inside the frame I also covered all cable outers with foam hose to avoid cable rattling.
I don't know if that is the best way to do it, but it works very well.
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I had a close look at the cannondale version of these frames today in a shop. the down tube on the cannondale (the side facing the wind) is very much tear drop shaped, it's absolutely not shaped like a bus / square like the Yishun one.
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I had a close look at the cannondale version of these frames today in a shop. the down tube on the cannondale (the side facing the wind) is very much tear drop shaped, it's absolutely not shaped like a bus / square like the Yishun one.
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The only reason for LC to shape it like a brick had to be structural. Must be that Cannondale is using a higher grade carbon in order to get that teardrop shape without compromising strength or Weight
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The only reason for LC to shape it like a brick had to be structural. Must be that Cannondale is using a higher grade carbon in order to get that teardrop shape without compromising strength or Weight
Or don't wanna face a cease and desist letter...
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Or don't wanna face a cease and desist letter...
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Ha! That too. Just don't get why they can't design a frame that's relatively light, aero and structural while also being aesthetically pleasing to look at?
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i reckon maybe a square tube is less of an unknown to them, cheaper for testing and mold production. don't need to mess around with layup as much to make it work. just slap it together, no fd di2 holes and boom frame ready to roll baby!
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The down tube does look like they just stole it off one of their emtb frames that's designed to hold a massive battery
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Hello everyone,
I wanted to update you all on the issue I had with my frame.
Lightcarbon handled this perfectly and sent a replacement frame.
I received it yesterday ;D. I carefully inspected every cm of it and no issue this time, no cracking whatsoever.
Currently in the building process, will update once it is completed, and I have ridden a few km on it.
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Hello everyone,
I wanted to update you all on the issue I had with my frame.
Lightcarbon handled this perfectly and sent a replacement frame.
I received it yesterday ;D. I carefully inspected every cm of it and no issue this time, no cracking whatsoever.
Currently in the building process, will update once it is completed, and I have ridden a few km on it.
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Nice! Good to hear that LC did the right thing . Did you have to ship back the broken frame?
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I have a Giant TCR and I will build a bike for a friend. I can have a TCR 2024 frameset for almost the same price than the LCR017.
Do you think that the LCR017 is "stiffer", faster and more aerodynamic than the TCR ? My friend loves aero frame.
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I have a Giant TCR and I will build a bike for a friend. I can have a TCR 2024 frameset for almost the same price than the LCR017.
Do you think that the LCR017 is "stiffer", faster and more aerodynamic than the TCR ? My friend loves aero frame.
if it's the same price, get the TCR 2024 any day of the week. the latest generation TCR is fairly aero and is the gold standard of light stiff climbing bike. Meanwhile the 17D is shaped like a school bus.
And if your friend rides a giant, any problem he might have goes to the usual channels. if you get him a yishun and anything happens you'll have to interface with chinese OEM shenanigans.
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if it's the same price, get the TCR 2024 any day of the week. the latest generation TCR is fairly aero and is the gold standard of light stiff climbing bike. Meanwhile the 17D is shaped like a school bus.
And if your friend rides a giant, any problem he might have goes to the usual channels. if you get him a yishun and anything happens you'll have to interface with chinese OEM shenanigans.
Do you mean that none chinese frame can beat the TCR ? Even the highest brand (like Winspace for exemple)
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A western brand will always have more value than a eastern (at least for the next couple of years).
Resale value and show off.
As regards frame design and aerodynamics, unless u are a pro or doing races, choose whichever u like more (and that suits u of course). Bike aerodynamic is a needle in a haystack
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I was able to strike a deal locally on my Tarmac SL8 frameset, at price pretty close to the new Tavelo Arow, SEKA, Bross, Winspace
To me this was absolutely a no brainer. And as you can imagine the riding dynamic is night and day. I have not really ridden much of my Chinese counterparts since then.
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I was able to strike a deal locally on my Tarmac SL8 frameset, at price pretty close to the new Tavelo Arow, SEKA, Bross, Winspace
To me this was absolutely a no brainer. And as you can imagine the riding dynamic is night and day. I have not really ridden much of my Chinese counterparts since then.
Was that for a new SL8 frameset? Always better to buy premium @ a discount than full price for a B or even a C grade product
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I was able to strike a deal locally on my Tarmac SL8 frameset, at price pretty close to the new Tavelo Arow, SEKA, Bross, Winspace
To me this was absolutely a no brainer. And as you can imagine the riding dynamic is night and day. I have not really ridden much of my Chinese counterparts since then.
Pat winspace needs to send you their latest t1550 (gen 2) so we can do a proper comparison. I have read they have made some significant changes even as far as the gemotry. Their large is inline with with your tarmac sl8
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Was that for a new SL8 frameset? Always better to buy premium @ a discount than full price for a B or even a C grade product
Yup, brand new frameset. And truthfully I'm now more on board with the idea that even a second-hand frame from a big western brand is still probably a better investment than a full price B/C grade product.
Pat winspace needs to send you their latest t1550 (gen 2) so we can do a proper comparison. I have read they have made some significant changes even as far as the gemotry. Their large is inline with with your tarmac sl8
Winspace decided to make the Gen2 T1550 geometry more relaxed. For my size L, they shortened the reach by 5mm and increased the stack by 13mm. I suppose they did slacken the seat tube angle from 74 to 73.5 to accommodate this. Wheelbase remains the same. With that said, the geometry is not quite anything like my SL8.
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Pat the differences I am seeing (geometry geeks) between SL8 vs winspace gen ii, size L: winspace stack is 4.5mm shorter and reach is 7mm shorter. Winspace stem sizes tend to be 5mm more than speacialized. There are also some other handlebar options that go up to 140 (farsports, avian falcon). seems to me the differences are a wash
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even a second-hand frame from a big western brand is still probably a better investment than a full price B/C grade product.
1000%
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Do you mean that none chinese frame can beat the TCR ? Even the highest brand (like Winspace for exemple)
That's neither what I wrote, nor meant. What I meant was what I wrote with regards to the question you asked.
A sweeping statement like "no Chinese frame can beat the TCR" would be non sense. Starting with the fact that the TCR is arguably a Chinese frame.
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the TCR is arguably a Chinese frame.
careful man or you might need to do a john cena
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At the end of the day, doesn't it still come down to the cyclist? I've been dropped terribly by old guys on rim brake bikes. Though I've taken out cyclist riding the latest $10k+ USD S-Works Aethos on the climb. My terrain is mostly all hills, so maybe it differs for those who benefit more from aero/stiffness riding on the flats. If I didn't live by hills, I probably wouldn't even be interested in biking!
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Nice! Good to hear that LC did the right thing . Did you have to ship back the broken frame?
They asked for multiple videos and pictures but in the end I didn't have to send it back
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Anyone that know's the max weight of the LCR017-D? Muchos gracias
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Yup, brand new frameset. And truthfully I'm now more on board with the idea that even a second-hand frame from a big western brand is still probably a better investment than a full price B/C grade product.
Winspace decided to make the Gen2 T1550 geometry more relaxed. For my size L, they shortened the reach by 5mm and increased the stack by 13mm. I suppose they did slacken the seat tube angle from 74 to 73.5 to accommodate this. Wheelbase remains the same. With that said, the geometry is not quite anything like my SL8.
Is Tavelo/Winspace grade A or B?
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Anyone that know's the max weight of the LCR017-D? Muchos gracias
Easier to ask directly Wendy/LC if not on the website. Anyway I'd assume the max 120 at least in the lightweight version
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Is Tavelo/Winspace grade A or B?
Any Chinese brand would be a harder sale on the used market vs a western brand. Quality might be comparable but when you take into consideration all the other factors like resale, warranty and customer support its hard to compete against a big name western brand bought for less than MSRP. Unless you have that hook, or have the resources it's still probably best m to buy a Chinese brand for less
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There's also second hand branded framesets. I had an eye on a Look recently, fully integrated, was c.1300 EUR. Something like that would be extremely hard to beat.
There's also brand new framesets that get dumped by stores to make space, often in odd sizes, to make space for the new model.
Essentially, the moment a Chinese frame isn't super cheap, relative value should be taken into account. Some markets such as the UK have incredible deals on eBay. One should know the relative strengths and weaknesses of the market they're in.
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Shimano ultegra 8170 di2
MT900 160MM rotors
shimano ultegra r8000 pedals
lightcarbon 50MM rims without spokeholes and dtswiss 250 hubs
KMC XT12 chain for asthetic reasons (waxed)
weights 7.6KG as shown on the picture
sadle will be replaced need to order a new one to fit the round rails
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Shimano ultegra 8170 di2
MT900 160MM rotors
shimano ultegra r8000 pedals
lightcarbon 50MM rims without spokeholes and dtswiss 250 hubs
KMC XT12 chain for asthetic reasons (waxed)
weights 7.6KG as shown on the picture
sadle will be replaced need to order a new one to fit the round rails
Nice looking bike ;)
Am still waiting for a few pieces to build mine ahaha
Am assembling it with a 105 mechanical so will need patience for running the cables on the hb :)
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Has anyone actually confirmed whether or not LC manufactures the SS Evo for Cannondale?
I was having a chat with one of my industry buddies who mentioned that since Cannondale is made in Taiwan, how could LC produce them? Which seems strange considering LC includes the SuperSix Evo in their marketing email to customers regarding the LCR017-D.
So either LightCarbon is spreading misinformation or Cannondale is using the produced in China but finished in Taiwan to be considered "Made in Taiwan." Or perhaps LC's is design is just different enough to avoid a cease and desist or copyright lawsuit?
According China Cycling Joe, Specialized frames are produced in China. Despite "Made In Taiwan" stickers on their framesets. None of this is my area of expertise so I'm curious what you guys think.
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Has anyone actually confirmed whether or not LC manufactures the SS Evo for Cannondale?
I was having a chat with one of my industry buddies who mentioned that since Cannondale is made in Taiwan, how could LC produce them? Which seems strange considering LC includes the SuperSix Evo in their marketing email to customers regarding the LCR017-D.
So either LightCarbon is spreading misinformation or Cannondale is using the produced in China but finished in Taiwan to be considered "Made in Taiwan." Or perhaps LC's is design is just different enough to avoid a cease and desist or copyright lawsuit?
According China Cycling Joe, Specialized frames are produced in China. Despite "Made In Taiwan" stickers on their framesets. None of this is my area of expertise so I'm curious what you guys think.
What marketing are you referring to I never saw any brand names on their website I communication with them
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Has anyone actually confirmed whether or not LC manufactures the SS Evo for Cannondale?
I was having a chat with one of my industry buddies who mentioned that since Cannondale is made in Taiwan, how could LC produce them? Which seems strange considering LC includes the SuperSix Evo in their marketing email to customers regarding the LCR017-D.
So either LightCarbon is spreading misinformation or Cannondale is using the produced in China but finished in Taiwan to be considered "Made in Taiwan." Or perhaps LC's is design is just different enough to avoid a cease and desist or copyright lawsuit?
According China Cycling Joe, Specialized frames are produced in China. Despite "Made In Taiwan" stickers on their framesets. None of this is my area of expertise so I'm curious what you guys think.
I would think that if the lc17 was made in the same Factory as the Cannondale it would have more than just the geometry in common.
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What marketing are you referring to I never saw any brand names on their website I communication with them
When I inquired about the frame back in March...
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO. It’s all-around bike frame as well.
Currently the LCR017-D (super light version) moulds are finished and in production.
The 56cm size is out of stock now and the manufacturing lead time is around 1 month."
Not sure if this email was intended just for myself. They will probably ask me to delete this since I know they lurk these forums.
EDIT: Maybe LC just meant they took design queues from the SS-Evo rather than actually produce it.
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When I inquired about the frame back in March...
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO. It’s all-around bike frame as well.
Currently the LCR017-D (super light version) moulds are finished and in production.
The 56cm size is out of stock now and the manufacturing lead time is around 1 month."
Not sure if this email was intended just for myself. They will probably ask me to delete this since I know they lurk these forums.
EDIT: Maybe LC just meant they took design queues from the SS-Evo rather than actually produce it.
Guess it was their inspiration, I would have guessed the factor ostro vam btw, but that just shows they all are “inspired” by something
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This looks very nice!
Which color did you use for the 'red' parts of the frame?
Ferrari Red!
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When I inquired about the frame back in March...
"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO. It’s all-around bike frame as well.
Currently the LCR017-D (super light version) moulds are finished and in production.
The 56cm size is out of stock now and the manufacturing lead time is around 1 month."
Not sure if this email was intended just for myself. They will probably ask me to delete this since I know they lurk these forums.
EDIT: Maybe LC just meant they took design queues from the SS-Evo rather than actually produce it.
Your "Engrish" is not up to par. They meant that the geometry is a match to the cannondale evo but their downtube delivers bus like aero.
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Has anyone actually confirmed whether or not LC manufactures the SS Evo for Cannondale?
I was having a chat with one of my industry buddies who mentioned that since Cannondale is made in Taiwan, how could LC produce them? Which seems strange considering LC includes the SuperSix Evo in their marketing email to customers regarding the LCR017-D.
So either LightCarbon is spreading misinformation or Cannondale is using the produced in China but finished in Taiwan to be considered "Made in Taiwan." Or perhaps LC's is design is just different enough to avoid a cease and desist or copyright lawsuit?
According China Cycling Joe, Specialized frames are produced in China. Despite "Made In Taiwan" stickers on their framesets. None of this is my area of expertise so I'm curious what you guys think.
Never hear anyone claiming that LC produces Cannondale. Just some people in the begining of this thread said, that the LCR017 looked like a rip-off of the super six evo.
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Guys, I need your help because this is driving me crazy ahahha. I'm assembling this bike now and I get an annoying creack when turning the handlebar to the left. I lost count on the number of times I've disassembled the handlebar, even switched position of the cables because I thought it was the cables snapping/switching one over the other but doesn't seem so. Any ideas where this can come from?
Sound is pretty much this https://youtu.be/OLKpF25upFo?si=womLqIP3OmNugeRi just much less as i get only two snaps. It's like sth going outside and then inside again. Any ideas?
I think I'm just missing taking the bearings off but not sure it can be from it as they are new and I put grease on them
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Did you put foam on the internal cables? Did you torque the compression bolt on the headset?
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That sound doesn't sound like a hose against the steerer. If you don't route hoses symmetrically around the steerer, you can have a bike that isn't steering neutral, and can make weird noises and you can feel some more resistance on one side than the other. And you usually end up feeling hose(s) pulling back against you.
Now that sounds like a ratchet almost.
If your bearings are smooth in hand, i doubt they would make that sound.
If your hoses are long enough and routed soundly, ditto.
A headset cap or spacers rubbing on a frame shouldn't make that sound either.
There's got to be something weird like an exotic expander plug or something like that that's touching something it shouldn't.
Maybe get a mechanically minded friend to visit you and help with troubleshooting. There's got to be something obvious you haven't thought of, and a fresh pair of eyes could help.
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i like your bottle
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Did you put foam on the internal cables? Did you torque the compression bolt on the headset?
Yeap to both.
But I have only put foam in the downtube section, not on the headtube. Do you guys put there too? I felt that there was not much space in the headtube to put foam there and might end up rubbing. Maybe I can add it still with some bricollage as I have the brakes bled already and would rather not do it again ahah.
As regards torque is all as recommended by LC.
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If you loosen both the expander plug and the stem (at the fork end), does the sound go away (or change)? If yes, it would speak to bits of the headset cap and spacer stack rubbing against each other or the frame.
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Guys, I need your help because this is driving me crazy ahahha. I'm assembling this bike now and I get an annoying creack when turning the handlebar to the left. I lost count on the number of times I've disassembled the handlebar, even switched position of the cables because I thought it was the cables snapping/switching one over the other but doesn't seem so. Any ideas where this can come from?
Sound is pretty much this https://youtu.be/OLKpF25upFo?si=womLqIP3OmNugeRi just much less as i get only two snaps. It's like sth going outside and then inside again. Any ideas?
I think I'm just missing taking the bearings off but not sure it can be from it as they are new and I put grease on them
I've installed mechanical group set with the internal cable routing handlebar. I routed the cables straight and without crossing. Also installed foam hose over every cable.
There is no noticable resistance in the steering but when I turn the bar more than like 80° there is a cable clicking sound too. Like one of the cables flicks over another cable and hits the frame or fork/steerer.
Not really a problem for me, since I'll never turn the bar that far while using the bike. Just want to share this experience with my first fully internally routed cables.
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I've installed mechanical group set with the internal cable routing handlebar. I routed the cables straight and without crossing. Also installed foam hose over every cable.
There is no noticable resistance in the steering but when I turn the bar more than like 80° there is a cable clicking sound too. Like one of the cables flicks over another cable and hits the frame or fork/steerer.
Not really a problem for me, since I'll never turn the bar that far while using the bike. Just want to share this experience with my first fully internally routed cables.
Thanks. That's exactly my experience ahah
But in any case good news. I was able to get rid of it. Just don't know exactly what did it. swapped the the shifting cables, cleaned the bearings from top, regreased and something seems to have gotten rid of this sound. My guess is on overlapping cables. Other than that seems fine. I have the hose dampner around the down tube. Now I was lazy to remove all the cables and rebleed the system. Let's see if the sound does not reappear
Thanks to all who tried to help
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i reckon twisted overlapping cables finding position as you turn the bars, too
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I see that best solution is really a Sram eTap ahahah. Well will have to be for the next build :)
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Update on my bike LCR017-D.
Ride feels great. Still deciding on the final stack height (therefore I didnt cut the fork yet).
Frame arrived in a mint state, paint as well.
I've ordered a no offset seatpost and received a seatpost with 20mm offset. I've contacted LC and they will send a new seatpost with 0 cost to me, at least that was what Carol told me. No tracking no, so far.
General experience so far, glad with the quality, many room to improve and the transit times and QC on the shipment contents. 6,5/10
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Looks like Hambini is building a LCR017
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I am both excited for a Hambini video on this frame. From my experience, if was a fantastic build and has been a great bike, and I would like for its internet cred to be maintained.
One update, while I don't have access to any sort of formal data, all my intuition and imperfect benchmarks on aero has been good despite the shape of the downtube. Riding side by side with others that I know their pm and my other bikes, this one has held up great.
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Mind over matter on aero
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Does Lightcarbon now sell the frame to other brands as well?
Has anyone been able to discover it yet?
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Update on my bike LCR017-D.
General experience so far, glad with the quality, many room to improve and the transit times and QC on the shipment contents. 6,5/10
Total build cost?
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Hey all!
Thanks to the tips of the internet's favorite 5 year-old, mr Hambini and this thread i've pulled the trigger this summer on the LCR017 (super light frame option) in size M with 400/90 handlebar option. I've been searching for a 2nd bike to complement my Cervelo S5 and replace the alloy BMC Teammachine i have built up, this came up as a very cost effective and what i believe to be a super high quality option.
I've opted for pearl white colour (as i'm quite sick of everything being black and matte) despite its weight penalty, and had to test my low creative abilities to come up with a logo and the name. Then it got to me - one of the most favorite things is to try and beat PB on a local hill here in Leuven, Belgium - called Chartreuzenberg, so the font and logo of the strong French spirit was chosen.
I've only managed to have a super quick look and i really liked what i saw! The whole thing was 895$ shipped and with all import duties.
The communication with Cassie of ProX was super smooth, quick and professional! I believe it would top any of the known brands' customer service easily. The bike arrived roughly 40 days after payment and i got a couple of shots as it was being produced. Customer experience 10/10
With the package came an awesome bike computer mount with a gopro/light attachment below saving the need to spend another 50 euros on it.
Bottom bracket T47/DUB looks to be very good - came at a cost of 10$ - so, no brainer until i get a Hambini one. 2 derailleur hangers, headset, spacers, all is in. Splendid!
Paint and finish is really very good. It does have one small blemish on one of the letters, probably happened during packing (it was well mummified in foam and put in a very sturdy box), and the overall finish around the masked areas is not jawdropping amazing, but i've seen so much shit from brand-names that i can just be super happy with the comparatively super-cheap frameset (Reminder that even a Winspace SLC3.0 now costs over 2000$ without handlebars or seatpost..., and i truly doubt it's more than twice the bike).
Carbon layup looks to be very good, on the headset there is a bit of an uneven finish, but that's below the bearing cone area, so i don't expect any issues at all.
Assembly should start sometime next week, and really can't wait to give it a go!
It will be put together from the parts i have collected over a period of time:
- SRAM Red chainset and rotors
- Rival shifters, derailleurs and brake calipers
- Fizik Antares R1 carbon saddle
- Hunt 50 Aero wheels (currently with Cinturato Velo 28mm bulletproof tyres as winter weather commuter)
Hope it will fit around 7kg mark and prove to be a bargain of the century :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/p5r5D2YG/IMG20240826153739.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5r5D2YG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xckb81dq/IMG20240826153747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xckb81dq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CdrqwqSW/IMG20240826153807.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CdrqwqSW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJCRwCsx/IMG-5181.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJCRwCsx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fd9LHbfQ/IMG-5182.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fd9LHbfQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HJ0Mmvk2/IMG-5183.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJ0Mmvk2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLCWLym5/IMG-5185.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLCWLym5)
Will keep you posted
Cheers
Luka
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Looks great, and I love personal referential branding!
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Hehe
Looking good! Good luck with the assembly.
And get ready to be looked by people! When I am around here in BRU everyone is staring at mine, wondering which brand it is haha.
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Hehe
Looking good! Good luck with the assembly.
And get ready to be looked by people! When I am around here in BRU everyone is staring at mine, wondering which brand it is haha.
They're wondering why it doesn't say cannondale
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They're wondering why it doesn't say cannondale
No one would ever mistake it for a cannondale with its big boxy bus like looking down tube
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No one would ever mistake it for a cannondale with its big boxy bus like looking down tube
Ahaha you have a particular hate for this one don't you? Ahaha
In any case mine has my own brand too and very specific blue colour. Not even trying to fake it. I think overall it's a good frame and dealing with LC was clear and straightforward.
I'm now thinking of either a gravel or an electric mtb as soon as I sell another one I have. It's just a pitty that their frames look isn't just 'boring'. I like boring straightforward bikes like the carbonda
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I don't hate it that much, I own one
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Hey all!
Thanks to the tips of the internet's favorite 5 year-old, mr Hambini and this thread i've pulled the trigger this summer on the LCR017 (super light frame option) in size M with 400/90 handlebar option. I've been searching for a 2nd bike to complement my Cervelo S5 and replace the alloy BMC Teammachine i have built up, this came up as a very cost effective and what i believe to be a super high quality option.
…
Bottom bracket T47/DUB looks to be very good - came at a cost of 10$ - so, no brainer until i get a Hambini one.
Before assembling, make sure you’ve got a dub BB and not a BB30 (will have the number 30 as part of the model, BB4730 IIRC, for dub it would be BB4729. Had a great experience with LC and my build but they did not seem to appreciate that very special distinction. Your red crank will fit the 30, the same way you can accidentally get gasoline into a diesel tank!
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If I’m understanding correctly, can you choose your bottom bracket standard from LC?
Or does the frame come with T47?
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Before assembling, make sure you’ve got a dub BB and not a BB30 (will have the number 30 as part of the model, BB4730 IIRC, for dub it would be BB4729. Had a great experience with LC and my build but they did not seem to appreciate that very special distinction. Your red crank will fit the 30, the same way you can accidentally get gasoline into a diesel tank!
Many thanks mr Cucumber! I didn’t check the micrometer, but on the cardboard box it came with was written 29, that led me to think that it should be the DUB spec, but will doublecheck indeed!
If I’m understanding correctly, can you choose your bottom bracket standard from LC?
Or does the frame come with T47?
Yup, it is a T47/68and you don’t get to choose it - but LC are offering cheap as chips BB when you buy the frame.
Btw Hambini’s video on the bike is on
https://youtu.be/c5nIgQ-UxDA?si=vZcJlEU6s1rBUoPq (https://youtu.be/c5nIgQ-UxDA?si=vZcJlEU6s1rBUoPq)
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I don't hate it that much, I own one
This is the most subtle savage comment I've read in a while ;D
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Hello,
I purchased a LCR017 in June and received it a few months later, paid 712$, a bit less than you because I didn’t ask any customization. Did you request any "z tier" when ordering your frame?
Upon inspecting my frame, I discovered significant voids in the upper seat tube area. I reached out to my sales contact, Carol, regarding this issue but have not received a response yet (WhatsApp and email). I also used the contact form on the Lightcarbon website to inquire about my frame situation.
Just to clarify, I am not seeking for clicks on my YouTube channel, as someone suggested in response to one of my comments on Hambini's video about the same frame model. I simply want to share my experience with the Lightcarbon. Here's the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk1CgekqLUA
Eventually, I will do another one if Lightcarbon keeps quite about my case.
Thanks Tiago
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Hello,
I purchased a LCR017 in June and received it a few months later, paid 712$, a bit less than you because I didn’t ask any customization. Did you request any "z tier" when ordering your frame?
Upon inspecting my frame, I discovered significant voids in the upper seat tube area. I reached out to my sales contact, Carol, regarding this issue but have not received a response yet (WhatsApp and email). I also used the contact form on the Lightcarbon website to inquire about my frame situation.
Just to clarify, I am not seeking for clicks on my YouTube channel, as someone suggested in response to one of my comments on Hambini's video about the same frame model. I simply want to share my experience with the Lightcarbon. Here's the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk1CgekqLUA
Eventually, I will do another one if Lightcarbon keeps quite about my case.
Thanks Tiago
well that's that's straight up garbage. please keep updating this thread with what happens regarding getting a replacement for that landfill.
it's a bit annoying that hambini obviously receives the ultimate quality frames produced especially for him for the purpose of review.
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Hopefully lightcarbon will address your issue asap as I wouldn't feel safe riding that. Makes me wonder about my own frame as I never used an endoscope to check it internally.
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+1 on calling that straight up garbage.
Email and Whatsapp them once per day ever day until you get a response, and let us know.
Not being an expert, I don't think I would feel safe riding this. There's so much material missing, the frame being very light, what if it just disintegrates from under you? And if they shipped you something so poorly made, there's no reason to believe the rest of the frame is great. Maybe the employee was drunk and fucked up, mistakes are made all the time, that's why you are supposed to have QC.
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Check your invoice. I ordered Grade A. Should be the same as you. I didn't find such problems in mine. Maybe you had bad luck.
LC is quite responsive, so I'd wait a couple of days for their answer before raising it. In my view, as I mentioned in other threads, it's not about having 0 problems, but how companies solve them.
LC has been working on their reputation for some years. Those voids don't seem natural at all.
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Grade A. The new z-tier classification is the new way to sell crap at any cost keeping reputation high
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what's this new grading system about? I bought a MTB frame recently from LC, but didn't see any grading mentioned in the invoice.
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If you don't get a response you need to open a dispute with PayPal for the full purchase amount including shipping and duties paid.
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I think in this context grade A just means the light version of the frame (havent checked, but probably full T800 instead of a mix of 700&800, or maybe it's some T1000 w 800 instead of 700+800).
The Z-tier thing, afaik, came out from Hambini's interaction w LightCarbon at Eurobike. I had never heard anyone until then talk about these tiers, and i think Hambini himselft said in his latest video that he's not sure he understood it right, so maybe he just heard Z something. It would make sense that OEMs offer different tiers of quality: different carbon fiber, different finishes, different quality. Whether there are different tiers of Z-something when it comes to QC in particular is TBD.
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It's all about the QC. The more you pay the more QC will be performed. On a retail level there's no leverage so it's all buyer beware.
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It's all about the QC. The more you pay the more QC will be performed. On a retail level there's no leverage so it's all buyer beware.
I'm not sure about that. There are a lot of OEM / chinese people reading this forum (Xiamen Carbon Speed, Yuanan, Winow, Velobuild, LightCarbon, SPCycle & quite a few more), and I think they know / are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of avoiding reputation damage. The reputation damage that ONE bad frame or product can do is material if it gets amplified.
On LTWOO for example, given how many problems i've had with the 5 er9 i installed, i stopped counting the number of people who WROTE on the forum they gave up on buying an erx / er9. So how many more gave up without actually writing about it? That's a personal example, but i can say that i'm not buying an airwolf frame because of the feedback on this forum. Ditto with worskwell, tantan, dengfu, and more.
As peak torque says, it's kind of the job of the customer to complain. if you pay good money for something, it shouldn't be shit. A frame full of holes is shit. A BB hole undersized so you crack the frame when you install the BB is shit. And so on. It's also a benefit of competition: we get to vote with our money.
Also, I'm French. Complaining may be what i do best :D
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I agree completely but without a forum to voice a complaint it's ultimately up to the buyer. I don't know what happens psychologically but a lot of people feel shamed in voicing their complaint. Sellers know this and try to flip the script and turn it on the buyer, in my experience that is.
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One takeaway from the grading scale is the sample rate for QC. I know everyone who drops a couple thousand dollars on a frame would love to believe it has been finely inspected in the factory, but the reality of QC is that you need to define a sample rate and have a process that is capable. A more frequent sample rate is expensive for the labor to check, but it lowers the probability that process went sideways during the production. It doesn't eliminate the chance that problems happen.
I hope LightCarbon addresses this frame and replaces it. I do think a lot of brands buy with smaller QC sample rates but rely on after market warranty to take care of issues when they arise, or they put in their own post-production inspection to return frames not up to brand standard (but this seems unlikely to me/or at least is a sample rate that is not 100%).
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I don't know what happens psychologically but a lot of people feel shamed in voicing their complaint.
Interesting perspective, i hadn't thought of that. we literally learn "esprit critique" in school, so our tests virtually never are multiple choice questions, but much more mental masturbation to lay down on 8 pages of blank paper. We're supposed to critique, think, postulate and stuff. I see in this mindset a parallel with engineering, where you ask yourself is the process good, is the material right, what can fail, why, how often, how to minimize failure and at what cost, where's the break even point beyond which you're losing more money trying to avoid a problem than letting some problems happen and only then remedy them, and so on.
I do know that women often dont feel comfortable speaking up because boys are socialized to be a lot less civilised than girls, and much more conflict happy, but i didnt think about the fact that men could also feel uncomfortable telling some to eat a (metaphorical) dick.
People (and therefore factories) respond to incentives. If there's no backlash from doing crap, the logical thing to do is crap, unless you happen to find a factory / workers who take intrinsic pride in their work. We have this in France for example, you'll still find craftsmen who are proud of what they make. They're never the richest dudes, but they are the best dudes. But they're a dying breed, it's an aethos (see what i did there?) that's dying as the culture rots.
Who said we couldn't talk philosophy on a bike forum?
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As we are making philosophical tirades, let’s go on the tangent of critical thinking.
I am Swiss from the French speaking side and I hold a French passport so I kind of like to hate/be critical of our beloved dysfunctional neighbor third world country [France]. (our national sport).
Given the media exposure of conspiracy theorists and the support from the people to politicians financed by authoritarian countries, we can be skeptical about the practical impact of putting kids in mental masturbation torture about arguing why pedophilia could be reasonable [it was real topic asked to high schoolers for their final exams
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We're living in the information age and that in itself can be leveraged to affect people's narrative and actions. Be it buying a bicycle frame or choosing a president each person believes that they have agency over their thoughts, emotions and decisions. Call it marketing in a commercial context or a psy-ops military campaign to affect an outcome do we really know if our strings are being pulled?
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The question is then what has been showing to consistently manage to fight information manipulation?
Critical thinking/skepticisim/scientific method.
Basically, we have to agree on how we get to the same fact if we disagree on what we observe, and decide what can be decided and what not.
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Question to you guys since it's not clear for me. On their webpage they recommend a 4/5mm gap between the top of the stem and the expander plug.
In all my builds i used 4/5mm not to the expander plug but to the fork cut. Which, after putting the expander plug usually results in sth like 1mm gap.
How are you guys doing this on this frame?
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Question to you guys since it's not clear for me. On their webpage they recommend a 4/5mm gap between the top of the stem and the expander plug.
In all my builds i used 4/5mm not to the expander plug but to the fork cut. Which, after putting the expander plug usually results in sth like 1mm gap.
How are you guys doing this on this frame?
that's not bike specific. you have to compress enough, but you dont want the stem to clamp over void, so it's about minimizing the void once you've compressed the column, without having the plug touch the stem cap, otherwise it means it's not compressed. If you're a ninja at that game, you want a 1mm space between the stem cap and the plug once it's compressed (some plugs have a lip over the steerer, some dont).
On C rings, btw, i found that plastic thing to work much better than the metal C ring. I need less torque to compress stuff. I think it's a better design. Just like plastic spacers are better than metal ones, i think a plastic C ring is better than a metal one: deforms / compresses easier, i guess. And i dont see how you can eat into the steerer with a bit of plastic, but we know a metal C ring with a bit of play can eat into the steerer.
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Usually I'm able to have it with 1 or 2mm. Was just wondering if this one actually was different because I have a feeling of slight play, but that mght be due to the front tire being super wide and "moving". Can't say 100% whether it's play or not.
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Usually I'm able to have it with 1 or 2mm. Was just wondering if this one actually was different because I have a feeling of slight play, but that mght be due to the front tire being super wide and "moving". Can't say 100% whether it's play or not.
Easiest way to find play, i found, is turn the bars 90 degrees, lock the front wheel, rock back and forth. if there's play you'll feel it.
Consider getting that little plastic thingy on AliX, i'm really pleased with it (i swapped my cockpit for a longer stem one, so i had to recable and rebuild everything.
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You mean those small spacers? Sorry didn't get which plastic parts you are talking about
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This is the part that fits over the upper bearing. Another thing not to neglect is the tightening of the expander in the fork. Sometimes it is not tightened enough and when you compress the steering cap, it tends to go up
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I did tighten it according to the specs (10nm) Even using carbon paste every time and don't notice any movement after putting and removing the top cap.
The part that fits the upper bearing came with the headset and I believe its well positioned else it'd move quite a lot I believe.
Will try to go again for a ride today. Maybe it's because I am used in my bikes to thinner tires and higher tire pressures.
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The expander torque is 10Nm?
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The expander torque is 10Nm?
Youp
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-super-light-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p240.html#parentHorizontalTab022
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Jesus OK. Never seen an expander go above 5Nm.
If you have play, just compress everything lightly with a clamp then just nip up the stem on the steerer so it doesn't move, then torque the compression bung up to spec, then torque the stem bolts.
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Hi everyone.
So I am another person tempting to push the button and order the frame. I've read the thread and in several posts regarding superlight frame a very thin carbon layer was mentioned? I am concerned about the areas, as my current bike frame was (as I figured out lately) branded LCR0X and it cracked near seatpost clamp area, on the upper part of the top tube. Having tin foil tubes is generally acceptable (I had some high-end western bikes where this was the case, all is Ok), but it may be the questionable positioning in OEM frame...
Another question for the users is ride quality. I have generally crappy roads in my area and LCR0X ride is quite harsh on both from and rear end, even compared to older aero frames with thinner tires, probably due to seatpost exposure and shape. How's it for LCR017 compared to some other frames?
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For me with 32mm tires and carbon wheels (steel spokes) it's the most comfortable (road) bike I have :)
I'd say it's a very good frame. Just choose the size accurately. I'm 1.90 went for the 58 in 100mm stem and 0 offset seatpost and it's almost too big. Go for crazy colours :)
And the "play" I have is indeed tire related and not headtube ahaha. Not used to such flex on road bikes. Reminds me of my mountain bike almost ahah.
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Hello,
I purchased a LCR017 in June and received it a few months later, paid 712$, a bit less than you because I didn’t ask any customization. Did you request any "z tier" when ordering your frame?
Upon inspecting my frame, I discovered significant voids in the upper seat tube area. I reached out to my sales contact, Carol, regarding this issue but have not received a response yet (WhatsApp and email). I also used the contact form on the Lightcarbon website to inquire about my frame situation.
Just to clarify, I am not seeking for clicks on my YouTube channel, as someone suggested in response to one of my comments on Hambini's video about the same frame model. I simply want to share my experience with the Lightcarbon. Here's the video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk1CgekqLUA
Eventually, I will do another one if Lightcarbon keeps quite about my case.
Thanks Tiago
Wow, that's the worst I've ever seen. Did they give you a new frame? I wonder how voids like that even happen! It's like the sheet of carbon they used was all torn up when they put it in the mold or something.
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Wow, that's the worst I've ever seen. Did they give you a new frame? I wonder how voids like that even happen! It's like the sheet of carbon they used was all torn up when they put it in the mold or something.
So far only one "automatic reply" saying they are in an autumn festival and will be able to reply back after September 19th
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Hi all,
new here but read through the topic, I'm planning on building bike on this frame after hambini's review but after Tiago's adventures i'm being cautious. I'm in touch with Wendy from LC and discussing the details. I hope your case @tiagosantos_ss would be resolved positively. I intend on asking about your case in my email thread specifically.
I also have a q for people that already built a bike on this frame. Does it take Shimano cable operated FD or not? There is no clear answer from this thread. I'm waiting on Wendys response on that.