Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: 100poods on January 15, 2024, 11:12:14 AM
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Apparently LTWOO have officially revealed the 1x gravel version of their electronic groupset.
https://www.ltwoo.com/eGR/eGR
Supporting 10-12 speeds, with a maximum compatible tooth count of 46T.
The eGR groupset includes:
Shift levers (left、right)
Electronic rear derailleur
Front、Rear Brake calipers (with hydraulic hoses)
Seatpost battery
Magnetic charging cable
Derailleur Connecting cable
MSRP 3500 RMB (~500$)
Hidden link from 80 Designer Store
https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=2WbVOP1
Full groupset with box and battery ~650$
Available on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204611810692
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I was excited about this group when I first heard about it but with all the issues ERX has had, I'll definitely wait this one out a bit.
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I was excited about this group when I first heard about it but with all the issues ERX has had, I'll definitely wait this one out a bit.
Same, either that or wait for Sensah. If their full mechanical group's quality is any indication, I think Sensah will be better than what LTwoo did in first attempt.
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I’m also interested in waiting for tests in the 2x system, I wonder what the capacity is, I like their compatibility like SRAM and much better than Shimano.
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Any news? Maybe directly from Ltwoo, if they read this as well...
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Any news? Maybe directly from Ltwoo, if they read this as well...
I see it available at the Ltwoo official store on Ali. Not sure if its been updated from the version we've seen on the Trace Velo youtube channel. That version had some issues.
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Do you have a link?
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i've installed 5 er9 and 4 sensah 2x11 mech. for me, LTWOO > Sensah, any day of the week. The FD from Sensah is useless, i've had a Sensah RD die on me for no reason and Sensah told me to go F myself. Meanwhile, at least until now, my experience with ltwoo has been flawless. I'll the 1st to start shitting on them if that changes, though.
People here keep saying erx has had problems. Afaik, the sleep issue was because of batteries with tabs instead of springs, that's fixed now, and SOME have complained about water ingress in the cable port of the RD, which you can seal with grease of liquid electric tape. Tracevelo literally submerged his egr and had no issues. I'm not aware of other issues?
And the er9/erx literally has more functionality in the app than shimano; i dont get the hate.
Where do you buy your ltwoo parts? Find them very unresponsive on Ali.
They don't even answer basic questions :s
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Do you have a link?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
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Where do you buy your ltwoo parts? Find them very unresponsive on Ali.
They don't even answer basic questions :s
I bought my GR9 roup from 80 designer store. They helped me with a few things after purchase and installation. Usually respond within 24 hours given the time difference.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
Just noticed that! Same here. Was avoiding the ER9 deal but now it's getting hard to pass on.
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Could not resist the eGR offer during the current sales with a 40$ coupon...
Let's see how this works out...
BR Chris
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I have both ER9 and EGR in the cart. I like how EGR looks compared to ER9. Was planning to install it on VB GF002 which currently has Ultegra 8050 on it but then I realized I use that bike as endurance bike with 35c wheels and very light gravel thrown in where the current 11-34 cassette coupled to 46/36 chainrings work fine. May be I should just get the ER9 and also save a couple of bucks in the process.
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I have both ER9 and EGR in the cart. I like how EGR looks compared to ER9. Was planning to install it on VB GF002 which currently has Ultegra 8050 on it but then I realized I use that bike as endurance bike with 35c wheels and very light gravel thrown in where the current 11-34 cassette coupled to 46/36 chainrings work fine. May be I should just get the ER9 and also save a couple of bucks in the process.
I think LTwoo shot themselves in the foot with a max 46t limit with the RD. I'd rather just get a mechanical 12 speed 1x GRX 822 RD which gives a 51t cog capacity and is backwards compatible with 11 speed and probably 10 speed.
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I think LTwoo shot themselves in the foot with a max 46t limit with the RD. I'd rather just get a mechanical 12 speed 1x GRX 822 RD which gives a 51t cog capacity and is backwards compatible with 11 speed and probably 10 speed.
I think the chain was too short or RD B-screw set in too deep in Luke's video where he has problem shifting 50t cassette. It will *probably* shift 50t cassette with some smart play with B screw and chain length. Though I am hardly ever going to use 50t cassette as the jumps between last 2-3 cogs are just too much for any smooth shifting.
What I don't understand is why EGR is more expensive than ER9 considering it does not seem to have any better weatherproofing nor does it have FD.
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Could not resist the eGR offer during the current sales with a 40$ coupon...
Let's see how this works out...
BR Chris
What cassette/chain/chainring do you plan to have with it ?
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
Many thanks for the link! But there is only a version "without box battery" available. So this is worthless.
Alternatively, where can I buy such a battery in Europe and will the connectors be compatible?
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Many thanks for the link! But there is only a version "without box battery" available. So this is worthless.
Alternatively, where can I buy such a battery in Europe and will the connectors be compatible?
You'll need to buy only 2x 14500 button-top lithium batteries ( https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html for example ) and probably 2x CR2032 for shifters. The battery module itself is included in kit.
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Ahhh, nice! Didn't know that! I thought there would be a one piece battery pack included.
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Any ideas about the possibility to use Shimano BR-RX400/BR-RX600 in combination with this groupset? Why I'm asking this: Could save work and leave the breaking cables within the frame and don't have to bother with this.
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Any ideas about the possibility to use Shimano BR-RX400/BR-RX600 in combination with this groupset? Why I'm asking this: Could save work and leave the breaking cables within the frame and don't have to bother with this.
Should work without any issues
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I think I did a thinking mistake. The braking hose on the shifter side most probably won't be compatible btw GRX und eGR. So yes, not really a saving of effort then since I will have to use the cable delivered with eGR shifters and pull them trough the frame.
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I think I did a thinking mistake. The braking hose on the shifter side most probably won't be compatible btw GRX und eGR. So yes, not really a saving of effort then since I will have to use the cable delivered with eGR shifters and pull them trough the frame.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3984.msg51717.html#msg51717
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Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?
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Lots of people using er9/erx on a different thread here, it's maybe the busiest thread in the last several weeks. 2 out of my 5 er9 died a few days ago for no reason, and dealing with getting replacements is a slow burn nightmare, so right now, i wouldn't recommend ltwoo electronic. i like the hydraulic brakes and havent tried their mechanical stuff.
I dont think there's been clear communication around what's new / different since the launch of the erx. even the water ingress point wasn't addressed. basically it is evident that we're beta testing the stuff, but it's labeled a retail product. So nobody knows what changes they re making in the background on a running basis, or it they batch the changes into new versions.
Saw it there, remember you being very positive about the er9 when I ordered mine. The fact that they die without a reason is terrible. What reseller did you use?
Find the official store on ali bad in communicating. 80 designer store was a bit more expensive but atleast some kind of service there
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Nowhere near as many reviews of this group as ERx. Trace velo had some issues with his. Don't know if he's done a more recent update on it.
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Ltwoo eGR coming out to about $380 shipped after coupon from ltwoo official store.
Actually pretty tempted right now.
~$350 now :D but gonna pass. The recent surge of issues is enough to deter me.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html
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I since had a look at groupset prices in Europe and they're still insanely expensive, it infuriates me. I understand that SRAM prices are very attractive in the US, but that's not the case in Europe.
SRAM prices aren't very attractive here in the USA as well, not to me at least. Nor Shimano's. On the contrary I was under the impression Shimano stuff is much cheaper in Europe. Cheaper, relatively. Nothing is as cheap as LTwoo or Sensah though.
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The reason i went for ltwoo was because of a crash where i had to replace an ultegra 8070 shifter. Hard to find them and prices at 300€ retail for just a shifter..
These prices are ridiculous.
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Hello, I just joined this forum to jump in on the discussion of the eGR. I ordered one and just installed it last night. Well, almost. Ran into an issue bleeding the brakes because I didn't have an appropriate nipple to plug my syringe into the caliper port. So, waiting on a new bleed kit to come in tomorrow with a selection of various sized nipples. Also, need to finalize how I'm routing the power cable, as of now it's just taped on the chain stay.
Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
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Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
I haven't heard anything bad about the EGR since it's newer. Your EGR RD should have a serial number on the cage. The first 6 numbers should be an indication of the batch. The problematic ER9 units seem to be from batch 250123. Perhaps EGR batch numbers correspond with the ER9/X or are completely different. Either way it'd be a good way to keep track for reference.
My ER9 unit is still working fine from batch 250123, so it's a bit hit-or-miss on why some RD units stop working.
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Not more people trying this group? Saw there is a new 2024 edition.
Anyone know what changed?
Building my first gravel right now. It's not yet complete, but at least it works with 10-50t Spedao cassette
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I've attached a picture to the post to clearly identify the screw I'm wondering about.
I quickly set my eGR up this weekend and did a good 35mi+ group ride on mostly roads, and all was good. I didn't pay super close attention to how this linkage was set, initially, because it all seemed to work.
After the ride, I was doing some cleanup maintenance to get my crank and chain line better sorted. When I put the chain back on, my chain seemed loose, like the derailleur didn't have enough take-up or the chain was too long. With that, the derailleur was all the way up and contacting my cassette, with the grinding noise just like in Trace Velo's video where his B-screw adjustment failed. That was the first place my mind went, but after pulling it all apart nothing was broken.
What I realized was that when I initially set everything up, that linkage was much further back than it would naturally rest. When that screw (circled in red) is tightened to the torque specified on the screw, the linage doesn't move and the B-screw adjustment doesn't really matter at all. It's like in Trace Velo's video where he uses a lock washer to prevent movement, except I have no lock washer. Simply tightening the screw locks the entire assembly in place. Somehow it had come loose while I was doing that bit of work and that's when I noticed an issue. For now, I simply rotated the linkage back like I had it originally and tightened everything back up to prevent the derailleur from contacting my cassette. Presumably, everything will continue to be fine as long as the screw doesn't work loose again.
My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.
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Can someone help with the message above?
And did you also rode the groupset during wet conditions?
Hold up?
Klein Concet put the eRX into his shower (https://youtu.be/1Cmb-VGhjQI?si=xXkYhC2Na_N1pHDY) and it held up. Would wonder if the same holds for egr?
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I've been riding this week with it, not as many miles as I had hoped but a little over 60mi so far. I haven't taken it off-road, but I took a few trips to a parking garage and rode about 30+ times up and down. LOTS of rapid shifting and so far it's held up great. I'll be taking it on a century ride in a couple of weeks, so hopefully I don't end up stranded in the middle of it. I haven't put it through any water yet, but I'll get a bit more rough and rowdy with it off the road once I am done with my century ride.
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My question is: Is that how this is supposed to work? When that screw is tightened, should that link rotate freely so that the B-screw adjustment can move the derailleur, or should it be locked in place like it appears to do on mine? I'm really a novice with it comes to derailleurs, so I'm not really sure what is more typical.
I don't have any experience with eGR specifically but in general rear derailleurs should be able to pivot around that 'L-TWOO Drive Systems' screw, yes. In practical terms, this is useful when you want to remove your (rear) wheel but the cassette starts jamming against the derailleur; with a free pivot, you can push the derailleur back, allowing for a clear path for the wheel to drop down. This may not be an issue with your particular frame, however - I guess it's easy to test.
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I don't have any experience with eGR specifically but in general rear derailleurs should be able to pivot around that 'L-TWOO Drive Systems' screw, yes. In practical terms, this is useful when you want to remove your (rear) wheel but the cassette starts jamming against the derailleur; with a free pivot, you can push the derailleur back, allowing for a clear path for the wheel to drop down. This may not be an issue with your particular frame, however - I guess it's easy to test.
Thanks for your thoughts, that makes me feel a little better. I'm about to do a little maintenance at the end of the week in prep for a long ride I'm taking next weekend. I'll take one last look at it before I leave it alone for the time being.
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I’ve had mine for about a month and a half. Not a ton of miles, but I should start logging a lot of miles soon. Zero issues so far. Initially the groupset only worked when plugged in. I knew what it was right away, the 1st set of batteries I ordered were a hair too short and were not making a proper connection. Ordered a different set that had a taller “nub”. That is not the groupsets fault, it’s a common issue when using these types of rechargeable batteries.
I might order another set, but would like it in carbon. Although the price will be higher than the $350-$375 you can get the current groupset for.
Here are the ones that worked well, surprisingly they were the cheapest ones too
Svenirven 14500 Battery, 2 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVWF93HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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I’ve had mine for about a month and a half. Not a ton of miles, but I should start logging a lot of miles soon. Zero issues so far. Initially the groupset only worked when plugged in. I knew what it was right away, the 1st set of batteries I ordered were a hair too short and were not making a proper connection. Ordered a different set that had a taller “nub”. That is not the groupsets fault, it’s a common issue when using these types of rechargeable batteries.
I might order another set, but would like it in carbon. Although the price will be higher than the $350-$375 you can get the current groupset for.
Here are the ones that worked well, surprisingly they were the cheapest ones too
Svenirven 14500 Battery, 2 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVWF93HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Pretty much my experience so far, as well. I'm coming up on about 2 weeks of it being up and running, at about 150mi. By the end of next week I'll have about 300-350 mi on it, but mostly pavement so nothing too rough. It's been excellent so far. I initially was worried about battery drain, because my first couple of rides the battery drained super quick. I think it may have been some kind of break-in or first-cycle issue with my cells rather than a derailleur issue. Rather than top-off on my first few rides I just let it continue running down until it registered just under 20% life and then I topped it off to 100%, that probably got me about 100mi or so (which was pretty poor, imo).
My last few rides, since then, it has seemed to drain remarkably slowly. After yesterday's 25mi ride, it didn't even budge enough to register a drop at all.
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Pretty much my experience so far, as well. I'm coming up on about 2 weeks of it being up and running, at about 150mi. By the end of next week I'll have about 300-350 mi on it, but mostly pavement so nothing too rough. It's been excellent so far. I initially was worried about battery drain, because my first couple of rides the battery drained super quick. I think it may have been some kind of break-in or first-cycle issue with my cells rather than a derailleur issue. Rather than top-off on my first few rides I just let it continue running down until it registered just under 20% life and then I topped it off to 100%, that probably got me about 100mi or so (which was pretty poor, imo).
My last few rides, since then, it has seemed to drain remarkably slowly. After yesterday's 25mi ride, it didn't even budge enough to register a drop at all.
Funny Same thing here. Initially when I saw the battery just drop rapidly I was thinking it would last 80-100 miles at that rate. Since the 1st charge it’s been holding up very well.
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I've been opening the app before and after each ride lately and taking screenshots as that's the easiest, most straightforward way for me to document shifts and battery usage. My last 2 rides totaled 65 miles and 1,167 shifts and the battery dropped from 100% to 91%. That ain't bad at all.
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Thanks a lot for reporting your experiences!
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Hello, I just joined this forum to jump in on the discussion of the eGR. I ordered one and just installed it last night. Well, almost. Ran into an issue bleeding the brakes because I didn't have an appropriate nipple to plug my syringe into the caliper port. So, waiting on a new bleed kit to come in tomorrow with a selection of various sized nipples. Also, need to finalize how I'm routing the power cable, as of now it's just taped on the chain stay.
Either way, I'm disappointed to hear about the sudden influx of issues. I hope I got a newer one.
My hopes are high as my initial impression is quite good. Shifting is smooth and fast once I got it dialed in. I'm coming from a Microshift Advent X 1x10 setup where I was using a Microshift Sword 11-38 cassette on a "road" type wheelset and the stock boat anchor cassette on a gravel-esque wheelset.
I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
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Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
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I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
Very easy to install imo. The usual pain to run bike lines if you’re internal, but then just a regular bleed procedure as if they’re shimano levers. Plug it in and begin to fine tune the shifting in the app. EZ. I didn’t have to do anything weird in my install to make anything work. Besides the 1st batteries not working.
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I'm wondering if you got the bleed kit sorted out and have any thoughts to share. I've got eGR set on the way. I'm used to doing deeper install research before installing but there is so little on it. So any tips or cautions are appreciated. (or pointers to a more appropriate thread)
Actually... I did have some minor issues. Mostly because I ordered the "no box / no battery" package, so I did not get Ltwoo's bleed kit. I ordered some supposedly Shimano compatible kit from Amazon, but it came with only one type of fitting and tube connector. Unfortunately, there was no way to get my syringe onto the Ltwoo caliper port. I had to order a different kit from Amazon that came with a variety of different fittings and doo-dads and, fortunately, one of them fit the port. If I could go back in time, I'd much rather have ordered the Ltwoo kit because it was cheap and would have been a little less headache. But, it was a relatively minor inconvenience. Plus, the delay let me re-evaluate how I had run everything, and I was able to take a little time to shorten one of my hoses a little for *perfect* fit and finish.
Also, while installing, I was completely convinced that they had left out a screw that I needed for my size caliper installation. I checked very thoroughly and was absolutely sure it was missing. I came up with a work-around solution and was about to write them an email so they could send me a replacement or at least give me the specifications so I could source locally, and the only reason I didn't send the email was because I resolved to do it once I finished for the night. Anyway... I found the missing screw PERFECTLY nestled and hidden inside some spacer or something. I mean, it was flawlessly hidden. So, I guess they did a great job packaging the hardware. If you order the "no box / no battery" package it surely looks like a mess of stuff just randomly shoved in a box with a bunch of packing foam, but they did have some order in the madness.
Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
I kinda *need* mine to work this upcoming weekend as I'm riding it in a big century ride event I'm going to. So, I've been baby-ing it and being very easy with it. I'm surely going to be a lot more adventurous and abusive after that.
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@amacal1: What kind of bleed kid did you buy? At the moment they only offer the version without box and without batteries on Aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
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Good updates on eGR. Any water tests or washes as of yet for you guys running eGR?
I am from China, and it's possible that I have access to information faster than others.
What I want to say is that although I haven't personally used the EGR kits, based on feedback from friends around me who have used it, the early versions of the EGR did not perform well in terms of waterproofing. All three of my friends experienced failures in the waterproofing performance of their EGR kits.
They obtained these early version kits either at the end of last year or the beginning of this year. I'm not sure if the recent updates to the EGR have completely resolved these issues.
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Hi @FabioZang,
many thanks for your feedback! Question is, when did they have updated the version in order to be more waterproof - if they did at all?
If they did, how to ensure to get delivered the updated version and not the previous one. I have reached out to Ltwoo via Emai, but didn't get a response. Via Aliexpress I didn't find a "chat/message button" to get in contact with the "official Ltwoo store" in order to ask them those questions.
You might have more luck when writing to them via email in your language? Could you give it a try?
Are there similar forum chats in China about this topic?
Many thanks, Dennis
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@amacal1: What kind of bleed kid did you buy? At the moment they only offer the version without box and without batteries on Aliexpress: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
I think you can buy the Ltwoo bleed kit as a separate item on AliExpress.
On Amazon, I originally bought a "Borgen" brand kit, which there was nothing wrong with it other than the fact that it only had one kind of fitting and that fitting did not work with the Ltwoo caliper.
I then bought a "CYCOBYCO" brand kit that had a variety of fittings, one of which fit the Ltwoo caliper. This is not a full endorsement of that kit, per se. There seem to be many others that also come with a wide variety of fittings.
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My eGR kit just showed up and I'm getting ready to configure. I ran into a question:
Is there a way to configure the shifters so that one can use BOTH sides at the same time?
I found that the app lets me change whether to use the right OR the left shifters to control the RD but see no setting to use both. On a side note, I find it hilarious that the app insists that the other one will be controlling the front derailleur which doesn't exist today on the eGR AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
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I was wonderung why both break leavers have shifter buttons anyway? Would only make sense if both buttons/leavers can be used for shifting the rear derailleur, true.
Are there 2 leavers for shifting on both sides or just one leaver?
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Hi @FabioZang,
many thanks for your feedback! Question is, when did they have updated the version in order to be more waterproof - if they did at all?
If they did, how to ensure to get delivered the updated version and not the previous one. I have reached out to Ltwoo via Emai, but didn't get a response. Via Aliexpress I didn't find a "chat/message button" to get in contact with the "official Ltwoo store" in order to ask them those questions.
You might have more luck when writing to them via email in your language? Could you give it a try?
Are there similar forum chats in China about this topic?
Many thanks, Dennis
I will try to ask them. Usually, I can contact them directly through platforms like Taobao or WeChat, without the need for emails. However, based on the feedback I received from secondary distributors in the past, the new versions of the EGR did not improve the waterproofing performance. In special cases, it is necessary to disassemble the rear derailleur and manually apply some waterproof sealant. But such an operation may result in the loss of warranty eligibility.
Based on the experiences of my friends, they had to wait until the rear derailleur got water inside and caused issues before contacting Ltwoo for repairs or part replacements (mainly due to water ingress in the rear derailleur). This process can be frustrating, and this issue may not necessarily occur in every kit. I am inclined to believe it could be a quality control problem. Moreover, purchasing Ltwoo from outside China would incur higher post-purchase costs, both in terms of money and time.
However, there have been some software improvements for the EGR, such as enhanced logic for situations like stationary shifting and accidental button presses. As for hardware improvements, there is currently no information available.
China does have similar forums, but we are not exactly like BBS forums. We are more like Reddit, with channels categorized based on discussion topics, and the discussions tend to be more basic. For more specialized discussions, we usually rely on WeChat group chats, which are more closed-off but allow for deeper conversations.
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My eGR kit just showed up and I'm getting ready to configure. I ran into a question:
Is there a way to configure the shifters so that one can use BOTH sides at the same time?
I found that the app lets me change whether to use the right OR the left shifters to control the RD but see no setting to use both. On a side note, I find it hilarious that the app insists that the other one will be controlling the front derailleur which doesn't exist today on the eGR AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
Ltwoo's idea is to use the left-hand button to control the electronic dropper seatpost. This dropper seatpost is expected to be released in the second half of this year, along with the mountain electronic derailleur. As for the accompanying shifting logic issues, it is indeed a frustrating design choice, but it seems that there are no other options at the moment.
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Ltwoo's idea is to use the left-hand button to control the electronic dropper seatpost. This dropper seatpost is expected to be released in the second half of this year, along with the mountain electronic derailleur. As for the accompanying shifting logic issues, it is indeed a frustrating design choice, but it seems that there are no other options at the moment.
That's good info, and I'm sure many people would be interested in an electronic remote dropper post option. I think it would be neat if there were some compatibility between the eGR lineup and the eR9 lineup, so that an eR9 front derailleur could be paired with a eGR rear derailleur and still function.
Also, I don't know how open the protocols are, but it would be neat if those buttons could be used to control a bike computer (i.e. scroll through screens on a head unit). We have these 2 extra buttons just sitting there, sure would be nice if there were more things we could do with them.
... AND can't be powered with the eGR battery pack (the second power port is blank)
THIS is the single most confusing decision I've yet seen made for this system. I noticed the same thing when I installed my eGR, that the battery pack has a space for the second power port but that it was blanked off. WHY?!!! I can't imagine it saves them money, if anything it probably costs more in the long run to have to maintain two different part production, stock, etc. Maybe it was to prevent issues related to moisture or other things, but then why not a little rubber plug or something. Even if it wasn't an elegantly designed rubber plug, just some random bit of rubber shoved in the hole that was a PITA to remove later would be better than no port at all.
Assuming that their customers like their products and buy more of them, it sure would be nice to have an extra battery pack that could be used between the 2x systems and the 1x systems. I'm still wary of how long my eGR may last and wary of all the reports about failures in the eR9, but so far it's been great and the price was incredible. If that continues to be the case, I could see myself buying an eR9 for my road bike.
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I was wonderung why both break leavers have shifter buttons anyway? Would only make sense if both buttons/leavers can be used for shifting the rear derailleur, true.
Are there 2 leavers for shifting on both sides or just one leaver?
Both sides are set up for full control. Two paddles each. On one level, it kinda makes sense IF they are planning on adding a 2x gravel setup. Then it would be an easy add. But they only offer it 1x for now AND the battery case only has one port so you'd have to swap that out anyway. The battery case is surely a FAR cheaper component than the shifter.
I actually wrote to L-TWOO yesterday to ask. They confirmed that there is not currently any way to use both sides at once. The agent didn't say it was coming either but also said that IF it did they'd let me know :-)
Frankly, if they are going to ship the hardware that way, they should allow configuration of the buttons in the app. One option of dual control. But you could also set it up AXS style (up on one side down on the other)
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I will try to ask them. Usually, I can contact them directly through platforms like Taobao or WeChat, without the need for emails. However, based on the feedback I received from secondary distributors in the past, the new versions of the EGR did not improve the waterproofing performance. In special cases, it is necessary to disassemble the rear derailleur and manually apply some waterproof sealant. But such an operation may result in the loss of warranty eligibility.
Based on the experiences of my friends, they had to wait until the rear derailleur got water inside and caused issues before contacting Ltwoo for repairs or part replacements (mainly due to water ingress in the rear derailleur). This process can be frustrating, and this issue may not necessarily occur in every kit. I am inclined to believe it could be a quality control problem. Moreover, purchasing Ltwoo from outside China would incur higher post-purchase costs, both in terms of money and time.
However, there have been some software improvements for the EGR, such as enhanced logic for situations like stationary shifting and accidental button presses. As for hardware improvements, there is currently no information available.
China does have similar forums, but we are not exactly like BBS forums. We are more like Reddit, with channels categorized based on discussion topics, and the discussions tend to be more basic. For more specialized discussions, we usually rely on WeChat group chats, which are more closed-off but allow for deeper conversations.
Interesting (and unfortunate) news on the water resistance. Do we have any idea where the ingress is? I was planning on using dielectric grease in the ports to help ensure that isn't the ingress. But I wouldn't want to have to rip apart a new one to coat it with that or conformal coating.
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That's good info, and I'm sure many people would be interested in an electronic remote dropper post option. I think it would be neat if there were some compatibility between the eGR lineup and the eR9 lineup, so that an eR9 front derailleur could be paired with a eGR rear derailleur and still function.
Also, I don't know how open the protocols are, but it would be neat if those buttons could be used to control a bike computer (i.e. scroll through screens on a head unit). We have these 2 extra buttons just sitting there, sure would be nice if there were more things we could do with them.
THIS is the single most confusing decision I've yet seen made for this system. I noticed the same thing when I installed my eGR, that the battery pack has a space for the second power port but that it was blanked off. WHY?!!! I can't imagine it saves them money, if anything it probably costs more in the long run to have to maintain two different part production, stock, etc. Maybe it was to prevent issues related to moisture or other things, but then why not a little rubber plug or something. Even if it wasn't an elegantly designed rubber plug, just some random bit of rubber shoved in the hole that was a PITA to remove later would be better than no port at all.
Assuming that their customers like their products and buy more of them, it sure would be nice to have an extra battery pack that could be used between the 2x systems and the 1x systems. I'm still wary of how long my eGR may last and wary of all the reports about failures in the eR9, but so far it's been great and the price was incredible. If that continues to be the case, I could see myself buying an eR9 for my road bike.
Two good observations.
On the mix and match, I think it was in a China Cycling video on the Shanghai show where there was a claim of cross compatibility on all the e components. So that would make sense. I do find the dropper post thought interesting (and sensible) but not sure why you'd want two paddles for that unless they are going to make one that can be switch activated in both directions (someone has one of those with a pre-charge air tank allowing a certain number of activations on the trail)
As to the battery case, I had the same thought. It can't really be the economical decision, particularly when compared to a shifter with controls. There must be some reason but I can't figure it out. The only partly sensible idea was from my son who suggested that the way that end cap is built, the molding has the two outer rings in it. But the inner 'post' with the contacts comes from an inside plate that is molded with the wires. If that's true, it might be more sensible to use one of those parts with a single post and a blank to ensure sealing in the other spot. Then again, I'd rather have a second port as a backup for a few pennies more.
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The attachment contains the reply I received from Ltwoo's official support regarding the waterproof performance of the EGR. The main point stated in the response is that the waterproofing of the EGR has been improved compared to earlier versions (at least according to their official statement).
... Do we have any idea where the ingress is? ...
Unfortunately, I don't have the physical EGR item with me, and my friends are also unaware of the specific areas where potential gaps may exist. All repairs are handled by Ltwoo officially.
However, I have a suggestion that may not be fully matured. Perhaps applying some waterproof spray meant for outdoor clothing on the outer layer of the rear derailleur could be helpful?
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So, the installation gets serious and raises another question:
I was told by the seller that the brake calipers are post-mount compatible (only in fact which I'm not sure can be true). Conveniently my V1 Cutthroat frame/fork are post mount. But the brake caliper, adapters and bolt kit seem to be sized for and include M5 bolts. Post mount is M6... Any thoughts?
BTW, the RD went on and set up pretty easy. I was a dummy and started individually calibrating before doing the macro. Duh, the instructions say to do the macro on the 7th sprocket (6th on 11s) first. It's just that the app opened on the micro adjustment page and I forgot. So when I finally figured it out, I had to repeat the cycle.
No big deal. Just follow the directions and it's easy. It also shifts nicely in the stand even up to 50t. We'll see how it works 'under fire' on the road after I sort out the brakes.
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my er9 included all imaginable bolt lengths and adaptors for 140 to 160mm discs, something that costs extra and requires significant brain damage on Shimano. I think a very small fraction of the market cares about post mount (at least on the road setups), i wouldn't even want to pay for the shipping cost of bolts of another thread size. Shipping from China is a large portion of the cost of everything we ride in the West.
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my er9 included all imaginable bolt lengths and adaptors for 140 to 160mm discs, something that costs extra and requires significant brain damage on Shimano. I think a very small fraction of the market cares about post mount (at least on the road setups), i wouldn't even want to pay for the shipping cost of bolts of another thread size. Shipping from China is a large portion of the cost of everything we ride in the West.
Yes they do include a generous collection of hardware. Unfortunately a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. Something I read tonight suggested that this is one flat mount standard (the ones on my road bike are much narrower at 30something mm) The included adapters are also 70mm rather than the post mount standard 74mm (seriously, who in the industry decided to invent a new flat standard 4mm different and using one size different bolts? ) I thought about drilling it out but there isn’t enough material in the right places. I also do not find anyone doing flat to post adapters for the 70mm flat variant.
And while you’re right about drop bar bikes being more likely to use flat mount, this is a gravel group set where post mount is not rare.
So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
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Yes they do include a generous collection of hardware. Unfortunately a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. Something I read tonight suggested that this is one flat mount standard (the ones on my road bike are much narrower at 30something mm) The included adapters are also 70mm rather than the post mount standard 74mm (seriously, who in the industry decided to invent a new flat standard 4mm different and using one size different bolts? ) I thought about drilling it out but there isn’t enough material in the right places. I also do not find anyone doing flat to post adapters for the 70mm flat variant.
And while you’re right about drop bar bikes being more likely to use flat mount, this is a gravel group set where post mount is not rare.
So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
Not sure about Ltwoo's electronic groupsets but I am running a GRX400 front caliper with my Ltwoo GRT groupset since the mounting brackets for their caliper were not compatible with my fork.
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...... a) I asked and was told they were post mount and b) the calipers are using an 70mm spacing that looks like post mount but uses M5 bolts like flat mount. ......
......
So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. ......
What I want to say is that Ltwoo does not adhere to any known standards, whether it's flat mount or post mount. Ltwoo has designed its own specification and provides a bracket with the kit to install it on most flat mount frames. Therefore, you will find that the included screws are M5 size, not M6. Additionally, this Ltwoo-specific specification was not initially designed to accommodate post mount frames, meaning it cannot be installed on any post mount frame.
As for the second question, it is actually easily solvable. Any Shimano hydraulic disc brake caliper compatible with mineral oil systems can be used with Ltwoo's control lever, including but not limited to models like MT200, M6100, R7170, GRX400, and so on.
You just need to ensure that the syringe, olive head, and hose are compatible. I recommend using BH90 components across the board because BH90 hoses can be directly installed on all BH59 compatible components. As long as you ensure proper hose installation, you don't have to worry about any compatibility issues.
I have paired my GR9 control lever with the UR300 flat mount caliper using BH90 hose, syringe, and olive head, and the braking performance and feel are excellent. I have been using it smoothly for nearly 5,000km without any issues of brake fluid leakage or loss of braking power. So, feel free to boldly pair them together.
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So, now I’m wondering what calipers might be compatible with the LTWOO levers. I know that early on they were bundling with other makers calipers, so I’m guessing the piston ratios are probably common. Maybe Shimano compatible since they went with mineral oil. If so, that would be great since apparently pretty much all Shimano calipers are compatible including across road and mountain groups.
Basically any Shimano caliper should work - pick up a set of their basic MTB ones for your post mount fork.
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What I want to say is that Ltwoo does not adhere to any known standards, whether it's flat mount or post mount. Ltwoo has designed its own specification and provides a bracket with the kit to install it on most flat mount frames. Therefore, you will find that the included screws are M5 size, not M6. Additionally, this Ltwoo-specific specification was not initially designed to accommodate post mount frames, meaning it cannot be installed on any post mount frame.
As for the second question, it is actually easily solvable. Any Shimano hydraulic disc brake caliper compatible with mineral oil systems can be used with Ltwoo's control lever, including but not limited to models like MT200, M6100, R7170, GRX400, and so on.
You just need to ensure that the syringe, olive head, and hose are compatible. I recommend using BH90 components across the board because BH90 hoses can be directly installed on all BH59 compatible components. As long as you ensure proper hose installation, you don't have to worry about any compatibility issues.
I have paired my GR9 control lever with the UR300 flat mount caliper using BH90 hose, syringe, and olive head, and the braking performance and feel are excellent. I have been using it smoothly for nearly 5,000km without any issues of brake fluid leakage or loss of braking power. So, feel free to boldly pair them together.
Thank you so much. I came to that conclusion about the L-TWOO mount being oddball and none of the plates compatible with post mount. A shame the seller specifically told me that it was post mount only. I'm hoping that was a language issue not bad info. (I will be telling them)
Also great info on confirming compatibility. I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work. The BH90 recommendation is also quite helpful. The Shimano spec sheets seem to indicate both BH59 in some configs and BH90 in others and who knows what's best with the LTWOO levers. :) So BH90 it is. I've heard the responsiveness is generally a bit better with 90s regardless of the design spec in Shimanoland anyway. Just have to wait for hose since none of my local shops have it in stock. (Who'd have thought the calipers would be easier than the hose?)
Thank you to the others on this thread for also and convincingly confirming the applicability of Shimano calipers. I'll be back, hopefully with a success story and tips if all goes well.
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I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.
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I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.
I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.
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I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.
I'll just flip the pads around to even them out. I rotate my bikes every other ride, so I'm not too worried!
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I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.
Lol those holes are the most retarded pattern imaginable, it's almost funny. imagine the donkey who came up with the design.
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Lol those holes are the most retarded pattern imaginable, it's almost funny. imagine the donkey who came up with the design.
They work fine! I double checked my gravel bike brake pads which does long descents on dirt trails and there are no deep track lines on the pads. My 2x160mm rotors are 1.6mm thick and feel quite sturdy. For someone to toast their rotors and dig tracks into their brake pads suggest to me they weighed like 130kg and had zero clue how to feather and modulate front/rear braking! There's a reason they have bigger rotors for bigger riders!
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I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work.
Ha! I went through almost the exact same process as you did (head scratching, careful measuring, thoughts of drilling) a few months ago and ended up with an RS785 caliper as well (for some reason, my bike has one post mount and one flat mount). So far, the caliper is working well (as in, I haven't died yet). For the record, I am using eR9 and used a BH59 barb.
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They work fine! I double checked my gravel bike brake pads which does long descents on dirt trails and there are no deep track lines on the pads. My 2x160mm rotors are 1.6mm thick and feel quite sturdy. For someone to toast their rotors and dig tracks into their brake pads suggest to me they weighed like 130kg and had zero clue how to feather and modulate front/rear braking! There's a reason they have bigger rotors for bigger riders!
A bad design is a bad design though. Glad it's working for you, but as a fat ass myself, i dont want half of my rotor surface to be air.
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well, i think LTWOO tries not to hurt any shimano patents with this? i think paying for flatmount license would have been a good thing, i suppose shimano was not up to this..
We wil see, if ltwoo withstands a closer look of patent lawers
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Used my eGR for the Cheaha Challenge in Alabama this weekend. 100mi with lots of shifting because it was 9300ft of climbing. Shifted 2,323 times and spent an embarrassing number of hours on the bike (first time doing a century AND first time doing anything even remotely close to that much climbing), but the battery dropped 27% (from 100% to 73%). I'm officially no longer worried about battery life of this setup. Now to throw some real gravel riding at it, since this was all road riding...
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Interesting (and unfortunate) news on the water resistance. Do we have any idea where the ingress is? I was planning on using dielectric grease in the ports to help ensure that isn't the ingress. But I wouldn't want to have to rip apart a new one to coat it with that or conformal coating.
Anyone has an idea about how to solve the potential water ingrease ourselfes?
Disassembeling the RD seems to be not that difficult:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2I) - see from minute 8.
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Anyone has an idea about how to solve the potential water ingrease ourselfes?
people have had success using liquid electrical tape around the RD cable plug. i bought a bottle myself but i don't have a thingy precise enough to squeeze out the stuff with any precision, so i'm not sure how to seal it efficiently. the stuff is sticky and dries super fast so it's not forgiving at all.
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people have had success using liquid electrical tape around the RD cable plug. i bought a bottle myself but i don't have a thingy precise enough to squeeze out the stuff with any precision, so i'm not sure how to seal it efficiently. the stuff is sticky and dries super fast so it's not forgiving at all.
I used liberal amounts of rubber cement on the battery cables. It's a non-permanent adhesive seal that's easy to rub off. I then put dielectric grease on as a second protective layer. I haven't rode the bike in the rain, but it's been adequate against random water puddles and other wet areas. The only issue is that the dielectric grease attracts a bunch dust/debris. I'm thinking, maybe using rubber cement and then applying heat shrink plastic might be a cleaner solution.
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Did you apply it from the outside or inside? In the video from Luke you can see it also from the inside and he was saying that the cable plug got "inpoxied" in. So you aim to have a additional layer of holding water outside that might get inside the housing via the cable plug?
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I only applied the rubber cement on the outside, but it dries and solidifies around the plug. After that I apply the dielectric grease as a secondary layer. I didn't like the idea of just using dielectric grease by itself since it's easy to take off. I figure the rubber cement should ward off most moisture, while the dielectric grease would be like frosting on a cake.
I got the idea because I had a leaky water sprinkler at my house and I sealed it with rubber cement. It actually did a very good job fixing the problem.
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Could you share photos of the relevant area of the RD and a link with the things you've applied?
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Could you share photos of the relevant area of the RD and a link with the things you've applied?
It's nothing fancy. I just used Elmer's rubber cement glue with a brush that I coated around the battery cable. Plus a $2 USD packet of dielectric grease from the auto store that I applied with a toothpick. It just looks like gunk around the cable, I'm not sure there's anything worth looking at.
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Does anybody have a direct contact to ltwoo sales?
I am being ghosted by them(Salesperson Luke, i do not need his contact), because i want a solution regarding quality issues?
Any help appreciated...
If anybody is interested in er9, brand new..i am willing to sell them cheap, germany or europe preferred..
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Does anybody have a direct contact to ltwoo sales?
I am being ghosted by them(Salesperson Luke, i do not need his contact), because i want a solution regarding quality issues?
Any help appreciated...
If anybody is interested in er9, brand new..i am willing to sell them cheap, germany or europe preferred..
Hi, i have a guy there via wechat. Idk where he works within ltwoo, it's a contact via a friend. He's been largely useless. For my warranty shenanigans, i've been going through the guy who sold me the groups, as per what ltwoo says on their website.
DM me if you have wechat, in which case i can probably share his contact.
My wechat skills are very limited.
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Has anyone considered building or has built a 1x road or light gravel bike (like 32c tires) using the eGR? It might be fun to build an lightweight climbing frame with the groupset.
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Has anyone considered building or has built a 1x road or light gravel bike (like 32c tires) using the eGR? It might be fun to build an lightweight climbing frame with the groupset.
I did that, sorta. I put it in my gravel bike, but use it more on the road than on gravel and keep a wheelset dedicated to riding on the road with 32c GP5000 road tires. Frankly, it's just a stopgap until I build up a dedicated road bike and then this will likely be my dedicated gravel bike. I went with the eGR because it will fit nicely for that purpose, eventually, and right now was an easy, straightforward conversion.
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
What size chainring were you using with the 10-50t? Did you do any preventative measures against water ingress?
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What size chainring were you using with the 10-50t? Did you do any preventative measures against water ingress?
I’ve been running a 32 but had previously tried 34 and 30 in the previous setup. All worked but the 32 was the “Goldilocks” size for me.
I did use dialectric grease on the connectors. I’d didn’t see any other obvious places to protect.
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Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
Hi Thanks for this info, it's very helpful! it's been a couple of months now, hows it all going? have you had any other issues?
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The thread may be that old, but my experience is fresher than that ;) I've had it out for another ride now. So far so good. I think I'm hearing slight noise sometimes on some gears like it may not be aligned correctly. So I might to go micro adjust better or I might go back to zero and do it per instructions (I micro adjusted first like an idiot). But functionally it's good. It's hard to directly compare the 'feel' to my AXS bike because that one is a 2x with a road cassette so each click is a smaller, smoother change. On the giant 1x cassette, some steps are a bit rougher by their nature. But I think it's pretty comparable. And definitely more responsive and reliable shifts than the modified, cable-actuated Force 1 on there before. I have no hesitation clicking up or down one to 'feel' right where there was enough faffing before I often just didn't.
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You're right I got confused about the thread and when you put it together. All good info anyway. I ordered the EGR today through Aliexpress, really excited to get it. I'm curious to know if you've done a garden hose test on the RD with your Die-Electric sealer.
I'll share my experiences once I've put it together
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;D, yeah no. Not going to INTENTIONALLY antagonize it :-). I'll leave that to the people who got free samples. (Hey LTWOO, I'm game to test, hint hint)
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My right shifter (i.e. the only one I use) is starting to have a minor issue with the lower shift paddle "sticking" a little after each shift. It has yet to cause any issues with shifting, but I can feel that it doesn't fully return to position after I press it for a shift. It's not a real issue (yet) but the OCD parts of my brain don't like it when my finger pulls back from the button and the paddle doesn't come with it and isn't in the exact same spot when I go to press for the next shift. I did a long ride in some mild rain the other day and, mid-ride, it quickly went from happening occasionally to happening after every shift.
I haven't really taken the time to carefully diagnose where the sticking is occurring and look for any remedies, but I'll take any thoughts from others that may have noticed the same thing.
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My right shifter (i.e. the only one I use) is starting to have a minor issue with the lower shift paddle "sticking" a little after each shift. It has yet to cause any issues with shifting, but I can feel that it doesn't fully return to position after I press it for a shift. It's not a real issue (yet) but the OCD parts of my brain don't like it when my finger pulls back from the button and the paddle doesn't come with it and isn't in the exact same spot when I go to press for the next shift. I did a long ride in some mild rain the other day and, mid-ride, it quickly went from happening occasionally to happening after every shift.
I haven't really taken the time to carefully diagnose where the sticking is occurring and look for any remedies, but I'll take any thoughts from others that may have noticed the same thing.
on YT Trace Velo made a video where the issue he had with his paddle came from 1 of the 2 springs being misplaced. Have a look, it may be the same issue. Either on erx on egr.
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on YT Trace Velo made a video where the issue he had with his paddle came from 1 of the 2 springs being misplaced. Have a look, it may be the same issue. Either on erx on egr.
I think I had seen that video a while back, but don't remember all the details. I'll have to rewatch it. I didn't think it was anything like that, though, because it was functioning normally for the first few hundred miles and has slowly progressed. I'll check out the video again. Thanks.
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Modified my commuter gravel bike from Sensah SRX to Ltwoo eGR and so far quite happy after about 150km....
Gearing is currently 11Speed 42x 11-46 - I have a 12 speed cassette and chain ready to be installed.
(https://i.ibb.co/f1nsr79/IMG-2821.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X23qFTD)[/img]
Some have asked about water proofing, I went with electrical heat shrink tubing on the RD. I used an approx. 8mm shrink tube so it slides about 2mm on the connector port of the RD:
(https://i.ibb.co/ZJwvL1j/IMG-2818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7zTBYNf)
And this is how it looks connected with the heat shrink tube in place:
(https://i.ibb.co/CBpTXb9/IMG-2820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dBsz3Pp)
In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
BR Chris
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What firmware is everyone's unit currently on?
Mine is currently at v1.0.1 and has been ever since I received it. Has anyone received any firmware updates?
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In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
I had the same issue with my ER9 installation. I couldn't get the battery cable through the chain stay. I ended up having to route the RD cable externally. On top of that, my frame used cable tension for the shift cable access port underneath the BB. So I had to hot glue the cover to the frame and use a zip tie to hold it in place if the glue fails.
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What firmware is everyone's unit currently on?
Mine is currently at v1.0.1 and has been ever since I received it. Has anyone received any firmware updates?
Same here. I'm hoping that is a sign of stability not...
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Same here. I'm hoping that is a sign of stability not...
Yes, same here. Frankly, I've got no issues that I think need to be addressed via firmware. It would be nice if they found something neat to do with those extra 2 buttons on the left brifter (maybe some novel shifting modes, or maybe a way to do data screen stuff on a gps unit, etc).
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Yes, same here. Frankly, I've got no issues that I think need to be addressed via firmware. It would be nice if they found something neat to do with those extra 2 buttons on the left brifter (maybe some novel shifting modes, or maybe a way to do data screen stuff on a gps unit, etc).
Yeah, I want them to let use use the left side buttons. Ideally assign at will. But I see no reason not to simply allow both sides to be live. Personally, I'd like to be able to set them 'SRAM style' (up on one side, down on the other). I got feedback from LTWOO suggesting that they might do something. But no commitment.
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Also going to write them about this topic! As more people might request this feature, chances will maybe increase that they implement it.
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In case you wonder, could not get the cable through the chain stay since the connector is too long and stiff. Tried from both sides and finally gave up.
The routing tool with 5mm diameter passes in both directions but the stiff cable connector with the same diameter gets stuck and will not move..... I guess you can't always win :-X
BR Chris
Hi @ChrisB,
many thanks for the idea with the heat shrink tube. Might work!
About the cable connector and about its stiffness and how long it is. Where did it got stuck? Near the RD in my frame I have this black piece where the RD-cable has to fit through. 2.8mm diameter on one and 6mm on the other side. I could possibly widen the 2.8mm hole to e.g. 5mm. How much is the diameter of the cable on the thickest part?
Kind regards, Dennis
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Hello Dennis
In my case the cable got stuck way inside the frame, there may be some uneven surface in the most narrow part of the chainstay...
If the current solution bugs me enough I may have another go at routing the cable, but for the moment I will ride the bike as is. ;-)
BR Chris
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Also going to write them about this topic! As more people might request this feature, chances will maybe increase that they implement it.
Did you get a conversation going? Having the left shifter paddles redundant is quite annoying (I mean at best, it's a waste of good electronics and extra weight!)
Ideal world I would have it SRAM style, with the upper buttons used to change bike computer page.
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Yes, Luke wrote me:
"Thanks for reaching out, we will evaluate your advice and see if it's workable or not."
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It'd be cool if you could use the shifters to scroll through your phone music playlist!
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It'd be cool if you could use the shifters to scroll through your phone music playlist!
That wouldn't exactly by my first voice for a feature, but literally anything is better than nothing.
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Took my e-gr out for its first run yesterday. A proper UK gravel route with a bit of everything. I'm running a 48t up front (it's a bit big) and 11-50 on the back, which is out of spec. I needed to run the b-screw all the way in, and very careful manage the limit screw to not throw the chain. Once dialled in, it shifts incredibly smoothly - better than my red AXS on my road bike, truly. Sometimes it shifted so quietly I wasn't certain it had!
As others have mentioned the left lever is completely wasted. It can't be used for anything. That would be my number 1 update request.
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Took my e-gr out for its first run yesterday. A proper UK gravel route with a bit of everything. I'm running a 48t up front (it's a bit big) and 11-50 on the back, which is out of spec. I needed to run the b-screw all the way in, and very careful manage the limit screw to not throw the chain. Once dialled in, it shifts incredibly smoothly - better than my red AXS on my road bike, truly. Sometimes it shifted so quietly I wasn't certain it had!
As others have mentioned the left lever is completely wasted. It can't be used for anything. That would be my number 1 update request.
I'm curious what bike/frame you're running it on? I have a theory that the amount of b-screw needed to use it out of spec with a 50t varies a bit. On my V1 Cutthroat, it didn't require full screw to do the job. The only 'issue' I found in operation is that the vertical motion while moving in the last (biggest) cogs is a VERY tight fit. Originally I had the speed setting to high and it bound up a bit on continuous shift as it was traveling faster than it could self-adjust. I don't happen to use continuous shift much (if at all, old habits die hard) so not a big deal. And I also changed the continuous speed to slow as insurance and don't find normal shifting degraded at all. (no, I haven't done a measured test)
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I'm using it on a Ribble c-gr. I find that having the b-screw all the way in gives some security without affecting the quality of shifts elsewhere on the cassette at all.
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I have my 2017 Giant TCX switched over from R8000 Ultegra with the clutched RX800 RD to the eGR group. My cranks are GXP so running 42t paired with a Sunshine 12s 11-46 and a SRAM NX Eagle 12s chain (for now until the KMC x12 chains arrive). I originally purchased 12s Shimano chains but the inner width is too tight for the SRAM narrow wide chainring. The chainring is 11s but works fine with the 12 chain.
It's all setup and dialed in nicely. I have R8070 Di2 on my Madone and the shifting is as precise IMO.
I did use some 8 mm heat shrink tube to cover the cable connector to help avoid water ingress. If using a heat gun be cautious, the cable itself can easily overheat and get soft.
The point I wanted to let everyone know is that I would suggest checking the 3 T10 screws that face towards the floor. During my setup one fell to the floor. I added some blue thread locker and snugged all three. Unsure of a torque spec but the seems like they would strip threads easy so take it easy if you do this.
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...I would suggest checking the 3 T10 screws that face towards the floor. During my setup one fell to the floor. I added some blue thread locker and snugged all three. Unsure of a torque spec but the seems like they would strip threads easy so take it easy if you do this.
Andrew, can you clarify which screws you're referring to? (picture maybe?)
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See attached for screws to check.
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See attached for screws to check.
Thank you!
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
The calipers WITH PROVIDED ADAPTERS should fit flat mount. I cannot confirm 100% as I'd been told they'd fit my post mount (they do not). But they look right for flat mount. It's worth noting that the caliper itself does not and fits no standard I know of (room for things I've missed), but the adapter is provided to make work.
I have more detail here: https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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The calipers WITH PROVIDED ADAPTERS should fit flat mount. I cannot confirm 100% as I'd been told they'd fit my post mount (they do not). But they look right for flat mount. It's worth noting that the caliper itself does not and fits no standard I know of (room for things I've missed), but the adapter is provided to make work.
I have more detail here: https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
Super useful, thank you. I've bookmarked your writeup if I decide to go down the eGR route :)
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
Not quite aliexpress, but I've gone with an alugear chainring and a magene p505 base powermeter crankset. They'll all work ultimately, seeing as the groupset doesn't matter for 1x.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
Are you wanting fancy bling or simple and practical.
Senicx cranks have a good reputation for durability and quality.
There's a bunch of new carbon cranks coming out as well.
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Are you wanting fancy bling or simple and practical.
Senicx cranks have a good reputation for durability and quality.
There's a bunch of new carbon cranks coming out as well.
Simple and practical. I had my eyes on the Senicx, so I think that's the way I'll go. I may upgrade to the Magene 505 down the line, but this will suffice in the interim.
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Simple and practical. I had my eyes on the Senicx, so I think that's the way I'll go. I may upgrade to the Magene 505 down the line, but this will suffice in the interim.
This is exactly what I did. Started with the senicx, then grabbed the magene when we had some good coupon deals. Its been pretty great for me.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
I use senixc crank set with 44t chainring from them and it is super good. Really top quality.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
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Can anyone recommend a good ali 1x crankset that would marry well with the eGR groupset?
Also - I've read in this thread about replacing the calipers with something like the ZRACE XG flat mounts. Is this necessary or will the adaptors that come with it suit a flat mount gravel frame?
Thanks!
I got the 40t Evosid set (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806578128182.html) - use the road set of the same make on my partners bike and it feels pretty quality. We'll see once i put some more miles on it.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
AFAIK there is no spacing difference on the AXS/XLPLR cassettes should it shouldn't be an issue. I believe there are some tweaks to the sprocket shapes to map to the non-standard chains used there so chain selection might matter.
Keep in mind that the eGR derailleur allows for microtuning for EACH sprocket unlike SRAM. So even if there is an oddity it should be solvable.
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Has anyone tried the rear egr mech with the erx grifters to see if they pair? I want greater capacity in a 2x system
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Has anyone tried the rear egr mech with the erx grifters to see if they pair? I want greater capacity in a 2x system
I have not tried myself, but I saw on some show video recently that LTWOO claims cross-compatibility with all 'e' systems of theirs. I have had good luck getting response from LTWOO 'sales' email (sales @ ltwoo . com), you might just ask directly
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My e-gr is dead. Moved it between bikes and can't get anything to work / light up. Any ideas? Not charging either. I have assumed maybe the cable is damaged and ordered a new one. Any other ideas?
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My e-gr is dead. Moved it between bikes and can't get anything to work / light up. Any ideas? Not charging either. I have assumed maybe the cable is damaged and ordered a new one. Any other ideas?
Checking the battery cable is the only thing I could think of. Or maybe the battery connection itself, or the internal battery contacts.
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I think it's fried. I'm in contact with LTWOO support.
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Ive installed an eGR group on my gravelbike recently.
Must say Im impressed with the shifter ergonomics, they are very small in volume and feel similar to my 11sp etap rim brake shifters, except for the bump that houses the hydraulics.
I have some propper rechargeble batteries in there and thus far its still going on its first charge. Running 12spd with an 11-42 cassette and shifting is crisp and fast.
I did notice that the RD screws were coming loose, as it was mentioned in here earlier, but I just tightened them up again.
I did not do anything special with the cabling and have done some wet rides without a problem. I have found, however, that with my rh shifter, the buttons get stuck sometimes, but not in a shifting position. I do wish they would open the software to enable button setup, as I would much rather set it up to shift in the AXS style.
The brakes work astonishingly well, very light brake lever feel and definate bite point.
Will be testing it soon on some rougher gravel, but till now Im very impressed.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
What was your method of contact? Just in case something similar happens to someone in this thread.
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What was your method of contact? Just in case something similar happens to someone in this thread.
Aliexpress (where it was purchased, from the official store).
I notice on their website they now state you must contact the place of purchase for support.
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I've been in contact with LTWOO and they believe the electronics are fried from water ingress. Really not great, hoping they have resolved this with newer ones. They are sending a new RD so I cannot complain about the customer service (although it may take a while, as they have to get it from the factory to customer service department first. They don't have them to hand for replacements).
EDIT: LTWOO have now stated this is fixed in newer versions.
Do you know when yours was made (or purchased)?
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It was purchased on March 12th. I'm not sure when in it was made but was from official store so hopefully wasn't old stock, but you never know.
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It was purchased on March 12th. I'm not sure when in it was made but was from official store so hopefully wasn't old stock, but you never know.
Honestly, that's a little worrying (as a fellow owner purchased in May). I'd thought they might have purged that issue much earlier in the year based on the threads online.
For whatever it might be worth, I've been allowing a hose (not a pressure washer) to hit mine and so far so good. (not likely to rain here until October)
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Water ingress for me (if that is the actual problem ) also would have been from a hose only. I haven't ridden it in any significant rain.
When I get the replacement I'll take a close look and see if I can spot any actual changes.
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I was really hoping this groupset would work out. Guess I'll be sticking to mechanical for the time being.
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I was really hoping this groupset would work out. Guess I'll be sticking to mechanical for the time being.
Used last gen Di2 groups are getting cheaper now that the whole new and used bike market has cooled down. You do miss on 12 speeds but don't think that's a biggie. Further more, if you don't mind non-series R785 shifters, you can get very close to eGR prices. That's what I did after going back and forth on ER9 :|
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I have a replaced RD on the way from LTWOO. Hopefully issues resolved. They made me pay postage which seems a little outrageous, but I'm not going to argue over £5.
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I took the plunge and put it on my bike.
So far so good! I’m using a direct mount hanger so I can comfortably run 10-50 in 12 speed, and the b-screw is about halfway in.
The brakes were a bastard to bleed because like others, I didn’t have the right fitting. For brake feel, I don’t really understand the process of what to do with the air valve. Can someone explain it to me?
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I think I’m about 500-600 miles in on my EGR. I haven’t any issues after initial set up.
Should be able to put about 1000 miles on it this month.
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I took the plunge and put it on my bike.
So far so good! I’m using a direct mount hanger so I can comfortably run 10-50 in 12 speed, and the b-screw is about halfway in.
The brakes were a bastard to bleed because like others, I didn’t have the right fitting. For brake feel, I don’t really understand the process of what to do with the air valve. Can someone explain it to me?
There's a video on ltwoos YouTube showing the process.
How are you using a direct mount hanger? Just a standard Shimano one and it fits fine? Is it the wheels mfg one?
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There's a video on ltwoos YouTube showing the process.
How are you using a direct mount hanger? Just a standard Shimano one and it fits fine?
Yup! Here’s a picture.
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Yup! Here’s a picture.
It looks like you still have the B-link there. Doesn't that just make it a hanger (maybe a slightly longer one) rather than direct-link?
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It looks like you still have the B-link there. Doesn't that just make it a hanger (maybe a slightly longer one) rather than direct-link?
Oops, good catch. I took that photo as I was trying different set ups, and yes, you're right - this made it basically a longer hanger which actually helped accommodate this cassette and I might stick with this set up.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
I’m running a 10-50 without any issue.
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What the hell? I tried to but that cassette on Aliexpress and it showed me one price, and when I logged in to actually purchase it the price bumped up about 20%? I'm still kinda new to that site, is there some way to get around that or to get the price it shows me before I logged in?
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Customs gets built in to the price.
I received my replacement RD from Ltwoo. On visual inspection I can't see anything different at all. They assure me they have fixed the water ingress issues. Time will tell!
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
Yup! My Karoo 2 sees it - battery life, shifters (although it can't detect it's 1x, but I selected "0" for teeth on the small chainring), shift count, ratio etc - everything you could ever need.
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My Stages Dash M200 sees my eGR. It thinks its a Shimano Di2. My bike computer has a screen that let's me tell it how many gears, what the cassette sizes are, and what the front chainring sizes are (I forget what I did for the front chainring to show only as 1 but it works now) and from all that it gives me a ton of options. It can show a representation of my cassette and which gear I'm in. It can show just an information widget on which gear combo I'm in, and it can also show my ratio. The only part that's a little flakey is the battery, as it only shows full, normal, and critical battery levels, and seems to sometimes warns about critical battery when the battery is perfectly fine. I suspect it's maybe receiving info about a voltage level or something that doesn't quite match Di2 voltage levels so it thinks the battery is dying when it's nowhere even close.
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I just hit 500km of pretty gnarly gravel on the eGR groupo. It's performed like a champion, no complaints so far.
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I might be installing this group on someone's bike. The description by LTWoo about the calipers is throwing me off. They say its not flat mount, its not compatible with standard spacing and you would need a flat mount adapter to be purchased separately. What other parts does one need exactly for it to fit onto flat mount frame/fork? I see they include an adapter, is that not enough?
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The included adapters should work for 140mm and 160mm rotors. In some instances I’ve seen issues with certain fork designs not fitting and I found the rear 140mm adapter+caliper a bit more difficult to tighten due to the seat stays being in the way.
The overall brake performance is good and I found using the adapters make aligning the calipers a bit easier than a regular flat mount setup.
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I might be installing this group on someone's bike. The description by LTWoo about the calipers is throwing me off. They say its not flat mount, its not compatible with standard spacing and you would need a flat mount adapter to be purchased separately. What other parts does one need exactly for it to fit onto flat mount frame/fork? I see they include an adapter, is that not enough?
I was thrown by this as well, but after reading trbike's write up on his website, and installing it myself, I think ltwoo have it wrong. What they provide in the kit fits flat mount without any issue.
I'm reposting his write up - hopefully he doesn't mind. I found it very useful for my install.
https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html
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The included adapters should work for 140mm and 160mm rotors. In some instances I’ve seen issues with certain fork designs not fitting and I found the rear 140mm adapter+caliper a bit more difficult to tighten due to the seat stays being in the way.
The overall brake performance is good and I found using the adapters make aligning the calipers a bit easier than a regular flat mount setup.
Thanks. I had calipers not fitting into rear triangle of my GF002 (TRP HY/RD) because they were too tall after the adapter. Hope these are not that tall, the group will be going on a 2023 Diverge which has dropped seat stays and narrow rear triangle.
I was thrown by this as well, but after reading trbike's write up on his website, and installing it myself, I think ltwoo have it wrong. What they provide in the kit fits flat mount without any issue.
Oh good. Yeah, I am wondering why they had to mention that. Thanks for the link, I will give it a read!
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Thanks. I had calipers not fitting into rear triangle of my GF002 (TRP HY/RD) because they were too tall after the adapter. Hope these are not that tall, the group will be going on a 2023 Diverge which has dropped seat stays and narrow rear triangle.
With the 160mm adapter, No issues with dropped seat stays. Though I found space extremely tight with the 140mm adapter. I do fast descents with them, and performance has never been an issue. Also like I mentioned, I found the adapter plates give the calipers a bit more leeway aligning the brakes. The plates help create a flush surface even if your disc brake mounts aren't perfectly surfaced. I have zero disc rub on either of my LTwoo equipped bikes.
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Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for 14500 cells. I have a generic set from eBay but am suspicious of their capacity/reliability. Would like to have another set on hand to try.
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Wondering if anyone has a recommendation for 14500 cells. I have a generic set from eBay but am suspicious of their capacity/reliability. Would like to have another set on hand to try.
Vapcell F12 14500 from Liion Wholesale. I got 4 for $16. Vapcells are a favorite of flashlight community.
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Vapcell F12 14500 from Liion Wholesale. I got 4 for $16. Vapcells are a favorite of flashlight community.
Thanks for this.
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I'm using Xtar 14500 800mAh cells I ordered from Battery Junction (us based, I think - the supplier, not the cells themselves).
I've been super happy with them. I get many thousands of shifts before I feel the need to charge. This month I've used my eGR bike a lot less. It's sat up for almost the entirety of August. In that time it's dropped to approx. 75% charge level. Can't really ask for better than that.
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As shared on the other thread, battery quality is importatnt. Having issues on my eGR with quick discharge.
Will change batteries as recommended by others.
STAY AWAY from these:
Doublepow 14500 AA 3.7V Lithium Battery 800mAh / https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006240603318.html
BR Chris
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Can anyone give feedback switching from a mechanical 1x setup to the electronic eGR? I'm curious if you found the upgrade worth it on a 1x setup?
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Can anyone give feedback switching from a mechanical 1x setup to the electronic eGR? I'm curious if you found the upgrade worth it on a 1x setup?
I went from a 2x mech to 1x eGR. Because I've had no issues with mine, I would say yes, totally worth it. It meant a lot less hassle routing cables through the frame, and the shifting once dialed in is flawless. But it's worth bearing in mind that this groupset I think can still be considered 'in testing'. I'm not sure I would have the confidence to take this bike packing on a multi day adventure and feel secure in the knowledge that there will be no issues.
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I went from a 2x mech to 1x eGR. Because I've had no issues with mine, I would say yes, totally worth it. It meant a lot less hassle routing cables through the frame, and the shifting once dialed in is flawless. But it's worth bearing in mind that this groupset I think can still be considered 'in testing'. I'm not sure I would have the confidence to take this bike packing on a multi day adventure and feel secure in the knowledge that there will be no issues.
Both my road bikes are running Ltwoo ER9 and they've been running flawlessly. I've been tempted to go electronic with all my bikes, though I'm hesitant with my gravel setup just incase something happens while I'm on a remote trail in the mountains. The other thing is I'm not entirely convinced I'll stay 1x, I also like 2x gravel as well. I'm currently using 2x Ultegra shifters, so it'd be easy to drop a mechanical FD if I switch back.
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Both my road bikes are running Ltwoo ER9 and they've been running flawlessly. I've been tempted to go electronic with all my bikes, though I'm hesitant with my gravel setup just incase something happens while I'm on a remote trail in the mountains. The other thing is I'm not entirely convinced I'll stay 1x, I also like 2x gravel as well. I'm currently using 2x Ultegra shifters, so it'd be easy to drop a mechanical FD if I switch back.
I went with a 42 up the front, and a 10-50 at the back, and that gives me fairly wide gearing that's similar to what I had with the 2x. I'm thinking of getting a 40 or maybe even a 38 up front to give me just a little more on the steep hills we have around where I live.
Otherwise, colour me dead impressed with this groupset.
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Welp, I'm about to find out what it's like to reach out to Ltwoo. I had a bit of a crash late yesterday evening riding some proper gravel track about 10 miles or so from my house. I went over the bars and my bike went elsewhere and bent the eGR. It almost looked rideable, but then after a few strokes trying to ride it the chain sucked the derailleur into the wheel. I spent a few minutes untangling everything and managed to get it free and clear of the wheel and the cassette. After that, I really don't know how, it was shifting again and I was able to ride it home. I spent the rest of that ride home puzzling over in my head how it could still be shifting smoothly while it was obviously bent all to hell (I stuck to a few speeds in the middle of the cassette and avoided the extremes to avoid dropping my chain). It was pitch dark when I got home so all I did was hose the bike down and put it away. I haven't been able to give it a proper post-mortem and see what's salvageable and not. From what little I did see, my derailleur hanger looks straight as an arrow but the first part of the eGR that connects to my hanger looks bent badly. I didn't bother looking at the jockey wheel cage but I assume that's got some bend as well. I suspect it still shifted smoothly because the parallelogram which contains all of the shifting mechanism and geometry was still internally aligned. I'll post some pics once I have a chance to look at it and also reach out to Ltwoo and see if any of my bent parts can be obtained from them instead of scrapping the whole thing.
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Welp, I'm about to find out what it's like to reach out to Ltwoo. I had a bit of a crash late yesterday evening riding some proper gravel track about 10 miles or so from my house. I went over the bars and my bike went elsewhere and bent the eGR. It almost looked rideable, but then after a few strokes trying to ride it the chain sucked the derailleur into the wheel. I spent a few minutes untangling everything and managed to get it free and clear of the wheel and the cassette. After that, I really don't know how, it was shifting again and I was able to ride it home. I spent the rest of that ride home puzzling over in my head how it could still be shifting smoothly while it was obviously bent all to hell (I stuck to a few speeds in the middle of the cassette and avoided the extremes to avoid dropping my chain). It was pitch dark when I got home so all I did was hose the bike down and put it away. I haven't been able to give it a proper post-mortem and see what's salvageable and not. From what little I did see, my derailleur hanger looks straight as an arrow but the first part of the eGR that connects to my hanger looks bent badly. I didn't bother looking at the jockey wheel cage but I assume that's got some bend as well. I suspect it still shifted smoothly because the parallelogram which contains all of the shifting mechanism and geometry was still internally aligned. I'll post some pics once I have a chance to look at it and also reach out to Ltwoo and see if any of my bent parts can be obtained from them instead of scrapping the whole thing.
oh mate, the most important thing is that you're ok. Parts are replaceable.
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I doubt they have spare parts laying around. I’d wait for the next AliEx sale and pick up a replacement eGR RD. Post some pics of your RD, you should be able to readily remove the inner cage plate and spray paint any scruffs. Also nail polish enamel can be used to cover up any scratches on the main unit.
I’d still double check your derailleur hanger with an alignment tool, no way you can eyeball if it’s straight.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrLShx2 (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrLShx2)
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Is anyone has news about two shifters operation of egr ? Very disappointing of this one hand use only.
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You can get the rear mech on its own no issues, electronic mech is about 250USD. They are the updated design as well. So far, my experience getting parts has been excellent and I’m glad they’ve decided to make all the cables and everything available.
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They responded to my email, at least. They said it was a pity that they don't sell directly to consumers right now (I think he was responding to my question about whether I could purchase just the damaged link on the derailleur) but he would check to see if there was some other way he could support me. Maybe just pushing the problem down the road until I forget about it? Maybe actually looking for a solution? I'll find out.
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They responded to my email, at least. They said it was a pity that they don't sell directly to consumers right now (I think he was responding to my question about whether I could purchase just the damaged link on the derailleur) but he would check to see if there was some other way he could support me. Maybe just pushing the problem down the road until I forget about it? Maybe actually looking for a solution? I'll find out.
They're nicely telling you to buy a replacement RD and leave them alone! ;D
If it makes you feel better, a replacement GRX Di2 or SRAM XLR RD cost much more. Also I wonder if any of the mechanical LTwoo RD cages can be used with the ER9/X and EGR? Someone would need to do mechanical surgery, get a good look at the EGR cage and match it with their mechanical RD counterparts.
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806984840131.html?ug_edm_item_id=3256806984840131&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21%24103.27%21%2446.47%21%21%21%21%21%4021410ce117232777697377140dabaa%2112000039693773011%21edm%21%21%21&edm_click_module=alg_product_l1r2_2937365560&creative_img_ind=2&edm_log_data=edm-item-list-left-one-right-two.store-product-log-link&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_41192_1_en_US_2024-08-10&rowan_msg_id=andrCOWS_41192_%245717acd24aa84794a96d419191c07488&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Not 100% positive, but I think I've seen some people on here get 50t cassettes to work, is that correct? I see this cassette on AliExpress just dropped to $68, it's 12 speed, HG, 11-50t and is under 400g. It's exactly
what I'm looking for, and I'm really tempted to go ahead and get this if it will fit with the eGR.
I am running both a 10-50 and and 11-50 11s Garbaruk cassettes (two wheelsets) with no issue. Used the standard hardware on the standard hanger on a 2019 Cutthroat. Yes a bit of B screw for alignment but not all the way. On THIS bike, it works so seamlessly I don't understand why they don't claim compatibility with 50t for the win. Perhaps slightly different hanger geometries cause issues. Your mileage (km-age) may differ
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Does LTwoo eGR show up in bicycle computers (wahoo for example) like Wheeltop EDS TX ? To see battery level and shift number ?
Yes and no. I have used it on Garmin Edge 1030+ and 1040 and a Karoo 2. On all the gear setting report seems correct (there is a small latency but that might be normal for all eshift systems). But battery status is an issue on the Garmins. Even when full they throw an alert that battery level is critical. So no useful information there. The Karoo reports a status of full but I don't know if it updates correctly (it is a spare unit I just connected to answer this question)
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Is anyone has news about two shifters operation of egr ? Very disappointing of this one hand use only.
Agreed. I wrote to LTWOO right after I installed and was told that they were considering adding configuration options in a future update. Unfortunately, no updates yet. I just wrote to them again about the battery status bug with Garmin too and added a PS about this again.
It's a real shame that the system has 4 buttons but you can only use 2. I want to see a configuration option of at least 'SRAM mode' (left side one way, right side the other) but even better would be to allow setting each button as you wish. And bonus points if they'd let buttons invoke ANT+ control of a head unit like Shimano and SRAM do on some models. If you'd like to add to the pile of requests (please do) write to sales@ltwoo.com
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Crash update.
I finally found some time to clean stuff up, take everything apart, and dig into what may have been damaged. I initially didn't think I bent my derailleur hanger, but I was badly mistaken. My derailleur hanger is quite bent. Which, is a good thing, because I should be able to get another one of those pretty easily and cheaply (though they are currently out of stock at Poseidon).
Bad news, though, is that I do believe the first link of the eGR rear derailleur is also bent. And maybe possibly my frame a tiny bit. I'll bring my bike the LBS this week and see what they think about the frame. Here are the pics of the eGR showing the link, below. Also, my bottom most roller was really, really rough. It looks to be a roller bearing roller and had water and crud in it. I couldn't disassembly it, but I was able to squeeze perhaps the tiniest bit of grease in there and it started to free up a little. Anyone find any replacement rollers that are confirmed to fit?
Does anyone have one not currently on a bike and can please take some similar pictures? It would be nice to compare and see if the little 3-5deg angle in that link is meant to be there, or is the result of my crash.
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Are you talking about the jockey wheels? You should be able to remove them by taking off the screws. After that I'd clean the jockey wheels thoroughly with alcohol. Also I believe LTwoo uses Fovno or similar jockey wheels. You can find them either on AliEx or even Amazon. I consider most of the Fovno equipment to be decent, besides jockey wheels they make chainrings and their own crankset.
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Are you talking about the jockey wheels? You should be able to remove them by taking off the screws. After that I'd clean the jockey wheels thoroughly with alcohol. Also I believe LTwoo uses Fovno or similar jockey wheels. You can find them either on AliEx or even Amazon. I consider most of the Fovno equipment to be decent, besides jockey wheels they make chainrings and their own crankset.
Yes, the jockey wheels. I was able to remove the wheel from the frame, but the bearing inside of the wheel was a closed, cartridge bearing. The bearing was rough, not just the wheel in the frame. Despite being a closed cartridge, I held my grease dispenser right up against the seal and managed to squeeze a tiny bit through the gaps. I could even see some watery/yucky discharge ooze out the other side. After that, it rolled much more smoothly. I can't imagine it's going to hold up very well for long, though. This was only for one wheel, the other seemed to be perfectly fine.
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Yes, the jockey wheels. I was able to remove the wheel from the frame, but the bearing inside of the wheel was a closed, cartridge bearing. The bearing was rough, not just the wheel in the frame. Despite being a closed cartridge, I held my grease dispenser right up against the seal and managed to squeeze a tiny bit through the gaps. I could even see some watery/yucky discharge ooze out the other side. After that, it rolled much more smoothly. I can't imagine it's going to hold up very well for long, though. This was only for one wheel, the other seemed to be perfectly fine.
The good news is that jockey wheels are generally pretty interchangeable. You should be able to find a replacement without going back to LTWOO (Half of my bikes have non-OEM jockey wheels anyway because they look cool :-) )
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This or wheeltop gx?
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The 80s Designer Store seems to say that they will sell me the link that I bent in my crash. They sent me a custom invoice for $20 for the part. I just got my replacement derailleur hanger in yesterday. Tonight I'll fit that onto my frame and make a final determination on whether I need it or not (I suspect I will still need it). I'll let you know how it all works out if I need it and if/when I receive it.
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The 80s Designer Store seems to say that they will sell me the link that I bent in my crash. They sent me a custom invoice for $20 for the part. I just got my replacement derailleur hanger in yesterday. Tonight I'll fit that onto my frame and make a final determination on whether I need it or not (I suspect I will still need it). I'll let you know how it all works out if I need it and if/when I receive it.
Hopefully you can get your RD up and running again. The 80 Design Store seems to be offering better customer service on LTwoo parts than LTwoo themselves! ;D
I've somewhat lost interest going with the eGR. After getting a Garbaruk (knock-off) cage on AliEx for my GRX 812 RD, shifting has been so good with big range cassettes, I don't really see the need going gravel electronic at this point.
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For what it's worth I can vote for 80 designer store to. They have helped me in the past to. Worth paying a bit more there than in the choice discounts from ltwoo store on ali.
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Well, rather embarrassingly, I think my new derailleur hanger solved like 98% of my problem. The "bend" in the first link on the derailleur hanger seems to be intentional, perhaps to offset one of the angles introduced by the parallelogram. Something is still a tiny bit off, perhaps that link or perhaps my cage is slightly bent. But, it's very close to straight now. So close that I won't need that link replaced.
I messaged the store back and thanked them for their help and explained why I wouldn't need it anymore. I will like to support them in the future, though, for being helpful. I feel like a bit of an ass for misdiagnosing this in the first place.
My eGR is back up and running properly now. Needed a good battery charge after sitting up, unused, for almost 2 months. I'm a little surprised by that, since my battery held its charge pretty well after the first month. I'll have to keep an eye on that moving forward.
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Are you in the UK? If so I have a spare LTWOO RD, as I had a water ingress issue and it stopped working, so I got a replacement. Of course, now it's fully working again (dried out).
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
I haven't had to do that. Granted, I've only used mine in light rain a few times and heavy rain once, but every time it's been for hours at a time and no issues yet. I applied some dielectric grease inside the plug, but I doubt that does much except keep water from interfering directly with the plug.
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Will install eGR on my gravel bike soon. How do you guys waterproof your derailleurs? Ive seen some people mention liquid electrical tape but where do I apply it? Around the cable port after the cable is plugged in?
That's what I did as a preventative measure. Get everything 100% properly installed first (make sure your batteries work, there's no draining etc), then I applied it where the cable enters the derailleur.
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Just received my eGR and can't turn it on. I installed fully charged 14500 batteries into the battery holder and connected the cable but there's no reaction from the rear derailleur. The light does not flash, no reaction when I press the button, not discovered by the app. Already wrote about it to the seller but is there anything I can try myself while waiting for the response?
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ok. figured it out. Turns out you need to connect the charger first, otherwise the battery is not going to work even if it's fully charged
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Is it possible to put bigger capacity 14500 inside ? I saw someone mentioning Vapcell F12 in the thread, wich are 1250mAh instead of the 800mAh original.
Is it blocked by the system ?
Thanks
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Is it possible to put bigger capacity 14500 inside ? I saw someone mentioning Vapcell F12 in the thread, wich are 1250mAh instead of the 800mAh original.
Is it blocked by the system ?
Thanks
The battery capacity is the battery capacity. If it's greater than 800mAh, then it will last longer. There is nothing I know of that tracks the battery usage and shuts it off after a certain usage threshold has been exceeded.
You should be mindful, though, that the 'stated' capacity of some cells may be... exaggerated.
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ok. figured it out. Turns out you need to connect the charger first, otherwise the battery is not going to work even if it's fully charged
Indeed. That's in every YouTube video about the installation, and in the paper manual, and the PDF manual, from memory at least.
On batteries, I originally bought trash batteries (bought what I could find) then bought expensive 2A batteries, they've been much more dependable. Given the failure rate on these groups, I would recommend everyone to use quality batteries (no idea if it prevents failures, but that's a sound insurance policy). 1A vs 2A probably makes no difference, and for sure it makes no sense to put even higher discharge batteries, so aim instead for batteries with a higher capacity as it will extend battery life. The batteries I had installed at first sometimes made the RD shift several gears with one click. Problem completely disappeared with the new batteries, and they last much longer. I capacity tested all of them, the cheap ones tested at 300-400 and the new ones tested at the stated capacity (800 or 900 from memory).
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
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Thanks for the answers. That what I thought like for every normal electronic system. But sometimes, brands blocks the use of other capacity batteries (phones for exemple). Good to know, I'll go for a big capacity Vapcell then.
Bought my groupset by designer 80, they sent photos of packing before shipping. Nice thing to do.
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
No. Has been requested many times. Reach out to Ltwoo and add your name to the list
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The battery capacity is the battery capacity. If it's greater than 800mAh, then it will last longer. There is nothing I know of that tracks the battery usage and shuts it off after a certain usage threshold has been exceeded.
You should be mindful, though, that the 'stated' capacity of some cells may be... exaggerated.
Worth noting that I believe the variability in batteries is what makes the 'gauge' in the app rather inconsistent. I assume it is calibrated for whatever LTWOO ships. Other batteries will have different performance curves (even better ones are not necessarily better for this purpose) and thus show a different % in the app. A bit maddening the inconsistency of burndown I've seen. But if you charge regularly before you run out (still weeks), it shouldn't cause actual issue
(see separate post coming)
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Perhaps anybody actually owning this groupset can answer the following question:
At the end of the Trace Velo review of the prototype eGR, Luke mentions, that the default shifting configuration is on the two shifting levers on the right hand side (one for up, one for down - classic shimano-style) but it also can be changed within the app to be on the left hand side aswell.
Is it also possibly to configure it as SRAM-eTap-style shifting, so lever on the right hand side does upshifting, lever on the left hand side does downshifting (or the other way round)?
Very sadly, no. You can swap sides as you note. But as yet, it cannot be reconfigured. I've exchanged emails with LTWOO on this twice now and the first time they suggested that configuration options are in the queue. But it's been a half year with no updates so...
The second time (when I made specific suggestions of how it would be nice to reconfigure), I got a response that 'SRAM style' might run into patent issues. I replied that they could just let us pick what each button does. Then they aren't shipping with a conflicting pattern. ;). No response to that suggestion
So at the moment, the other switches are just backups or potentially future-proofing for a 2x configuration.
If you'd like to suggest something, send a note to sales@lwtoo.com. They are reasonably responsive in my experience. (don't tell them I sent you)
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Thanks for the answers. That what I thought like for every normal electronic system. But sometimes, brands blocks the use of other capacity batteries (phones for exemple). Good to know, I'll go for a big capacity Vapcell then.
Bought my groupset by designer 80, they sent photos of packing before shipping. Nice thing to do.
Yeah, that kind of lockout depends on circuitry in the pack. In this case, they are providing the pack that you use (the tube with circuit board) and you add the simple 'dumb' battery inside. They don't have direct access to information about the battery itself (they could infer it perhaps)
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Yeah, that kind of lockout depends on circuitry in the pack. In this case, they are providing the pack that you use (the tube with circuit board) and you add the simple 'dumb' battery inside. They don't have direct access to information about the battery itself (they could infer it perhaps)
Well, we have adressed that problem to ltwoo....they leave it to the customer to buy the batteries and they are not able to control the quality of the battery at the end..
Selling a product with batteries opens a huge can of worms..it is hard to ship parcels with batteries inside, well it is not hard, but its more expensive...you would also have to certify this battery pack...
The pcb they are using does not have any (working) protection, we have had a burned tray without any explanable reason...
it is very easy to program a warning if the battery is low quality and or begins to die...when the load is applied and the voltage drops below a certain level, you could trigger a warning...
But they are chinese...so a product quality of 90 % is good enough for them....
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@gloscherrybomb & @trcycling
Thanks for you answers.
I am currently not in need of a new groupset, just checking options as my next upgrade will prolly be electronic with SRAMs eTap-shiftlogic.
Hopefully Sensah will be offering something the like with their new electronic groupset which I heard is in the making... they have been more-SRAM-than-Shimano-like in the past anyways. ;)
If they just "copy" the APEX/Rival AXS but with hydraulic oil brakes (instead of DOT) and a derailleur battery pack which uses some standard batteries (like 18650) instead of the proprietary stuff, I think that would be an absolute winner of a groupset.
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I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...
My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.
I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.
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I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...
My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.
I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.
By chance, did you take pictures?
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By chance, did you take pictures?
I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.
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I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.
Keep us posted...they usually keep asking, and asking and asking for many other things..but wont help...
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I'd like to hear feedback, as well. I rode through some gnarly puddles and nasty muddy track exactly once (on a ride I crashed). When I did a post mortem examination some weeks later I discovered my lowest jockey wheel was seized. I squeezed some grease in around the bearing shield and restored some life. I ordered a random jockey wheel from Ali to try to replace it, but I'd be interested in knowing what the correct replacement jockey wheel is or can be sourced from. I emailed Ltwoo but got no response.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
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You can get the rear mech on its own no issues, electronic mech is about 250USD. They are the updated design as well. So far, my experience getting parts has been excellent and I’m glad they’ve decided to make all the cables and everything available.
got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
These look exactly like the ones on the eGR rear mech, but with black bearing covers. Note the 626Z metallic shield bearings.
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By chance, did you take pictures?
See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.
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See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.
Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)
Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?
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got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.
So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! ;D
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Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)
Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?
I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.
Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.
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So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! ;D
I've used it both w/a drop-bar canti cross-check and a flat bar mtb so far.
I think ppl have swapped coin batteries out in those blips, but it looks a bit surgical. like on a level of changing an iphone screen - not hard per se but fussy and time-consuming.
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I've used it both w/a drop-bar canti cross-check and a flat bar mtb so far.
I think ppl have swapped coin batteries out in those blips, but it looks a bit surgical. like on a level of changing an iphone screen - not hard per se but fussy and time-consuming.
I just found a how-to tutorial on how to replace the blip batteries.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/ (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/)
It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
It reminds me of my cheap wireless doorbell, which basically does the same thing!
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I just found a how-to tutorial on how to replace the blip batteries.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/ (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C13-v1lMaWR/)
It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
It reminds me of my cheap wireless doorbell, which basically does the same thing!
we are already working on this problem :-)
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It would be great if someone could make 3D print of a case that's easy to access. Similar to swapping batteries on a cadence/speed sensor. I'd really like to see LTwoo or Wheeltop explore this option as well. Though I wonder how many patents SRAM has to protect this concept?
That's such a good point. I can't - for the life of me - imagine what stupidity went into the design with NON-REPLACEABLE batteries on something like that. If my $10 PAIR of ant+ speed and cadence sensors can manage to be waterproof, wireless, and have a replaceable battery then surely SRAM can do the same with a critical part of the drivetrain. Actually, it's worse than that. The pair of sensors I have uses the battery cover as a switch - turn the battery cover to the left and it's a speed sensor and turned to the right it's a cadence sensor. Not only does it have a replaceable battery cover, but they innovated a way to make it part of the interface.
Shame on SRAM, for real. Straight to engineer jail.
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That's such a good point. I can't - for the life of me - imagine what stupidity went into the design with NON-REPLACEABLE batteries on something like that. If my $10 PAIR of ant+ speed and cadence sensors can manage to be waterproof, wireless, and have a replaceable battery then surely SRAM can do the same with a critical part of the drivetrain. Actually, it's worse than that. The pair of sensors I have uses the battery cover as a switch - turn the battery cover to the left and it's a speed sensor and turned to the right it's a cadence sensor. Not only does it have a replaceable battery cover, but they innovated a way to make it part of the interface.
Shame on SRAM, for real. Straight to engineer jail.
SRAM engineers probably did design it to be replaceable, but then the marketing department said otherwise! I can't stand companies that are market driven in this way. Shimano isn't much better, but I find SRAM much worst in this regards. I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
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I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
Yes. Market economics does work for things like this. SRAM and Shimano can be a little foolish, still, but if they start acting like complete jackasses, then the new companies will start eating their lunch.
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@gloscherrybomb & @trcycling
Thanks for you answers.
I am currently not in need of a new groupset, just checking options as my next upgrade will prolly be electronic with SRAMs eTap-shiftlogic.
Hopefully Sensah will be offering something the like with their new electronic groupset which I heard is in the making... they have been more-SRAM-than-Shimano-like in the past anyways. ;)
If they just "copy" the APEX/Rival AXS but with hydraulic oil brakes (instead of DOT) and a derailleur battery pack which uses some standard batteries (like 18650) instead of the proprietary stuff, I think that would be an absolute winner of a groupset.
Quoting myself here but may be interesting for others (albeit being offtopic in regards to LTWOO eGR)
The new Wheeltop GEX offers a fully wireless rear derailleur (compareable to SRAM) with hydraulic oil disc brakes (fully Shimano-compatible... you could even use original Shimano brakes) and the shifting-logic can be programmed either way (SRAM-style one side up, the other side down or Shimano-style both up and down on the right hand side) inside the app. The battery pack is proprietary but atleast can be exchanged (according to the manual).
It is also said to be fully compatible with basically all 3 to 14 speed cassettes which is a very nice addition because it lets you save money on using cheap 11spd cassettes now but also stay compatible/future proof on 12 & 13 speed when those become cheaper in the future.
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Quoting myself here but may be interesting for others (albeit being offtopic in regards to LTWOO eGR)
The new Wheeltop GEX offers a fully wireless rear derailleur (compareable to SRAM) with hydraulic oil disc brakes (fully Shimano-compatible... you could even use original Shimano brakes) and the shifting-logic can be programmed either way (SRAM-style one side up, the other side down or Shimano-style both up and down on the right hand side) inside the app. The battery pack is proprietary but atleast can be exchanged (according to the manual).
It is also said to be fully compatible with basically all 3 to 14 speed cassettes which is a very nice addition because it lets you save money on using cheap 11spd cassettes now but also stay compatible/future proof on 12 & 13 speed when those become cheaper in the future.
GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
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GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
It seems Wheeltop now has US distribution and warranty support (not sure about Europe). I remember someone saying that Wheeltop opened an office in Portland, OR. The GeX for $509 USD with warranty support and selectable cassette speeds, seems reasonable. Also Wheeltop took a cue from Shimano and offers separate RDs for both xx-46t and xx-51t cassette sizes. Plus they offer alloy and carbon versions. LTwoo only offers xx-46t compatibility and alloy only shifters with the eGR. LTwoo has no US support or distribution either, with AliEx sellers stepping up for support. Wheeltop sounds (at least) on-paper to be the safer bet.
Though personally I'd probably stick with eGR since I'm already embedded with the ER9 groupset on my road bikes, so I'd only need 1 app to manage all my bikes.
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SRAM engineers probably did design it to be replaceable, but then the marketing department said otherwise! I can't stand companies that are market driven in this way. Shimano isn't much better, but I find SRAM much worst in this regards. I'm actually glad LTwoo and Wheeltop are now in the groupset market.
the moment you decide to make it replaceable you need to add thickness to the screw-on cap, a rubber gasket and additional assembly steps at the plant. this way you can make it smaller, flimsier and also not have to do a 5-yr durability study.
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GeX does seem nice, and the Ali price is good ($450 right now, without any other special discounts). Problem is, zero support and warranty at that price. Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price. There seems to be a website that purports to be their US distribution company that's selling it for $509 (on sale right now). That ain't a bad price, and if that's really legit and they back the warranty and support then it's probably a slightly safer bet than Ltwoo at a slightly higher price.
good find! I like how the AE eds mtb package price dropped to be in line with the $300 SRAM apex/blip combo. I'll probably pick one up for my kid's bike.
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good find! I like how the AE eds mtb package price dropped to be in line with the $300 SRAM apex/blip combo. I'll probably pick one up for my kid's bike.
https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152 (https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152)
SRAM AXS XPLR RD is $221 USD right now and paired with $100 blips, seems quite reasonable. I could literally just keep my Shimano hydraulic shifters in-place and go full wireless with that setup. Though how would the crank/chain/cassette situation look? I'd have to go 12 speed, but can the XPLR RD handle non-SRAM chain/cassette combos?
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https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152 (https://www.performancebike.com/sram-apex-xplr-axs-rear-derailleur-grey-12-speed-electronic-00.7518.175.000/p1501152)
SRAM AXS XPLR RD is $221 USD right now and paired with $100 blips, seems quite reasonable. I could literally just keep my Shimano hydraulic shifters in-place and go full wireless with that setup. Though how would the crank/chain/cassette situation look? I'd have to go 12 speed, but can the XPLR RD handle non-SRAM chain/cassette combos?
I've been running it w/AE 12-sp cassette and chain, and it works. I don't know if it works better with all native SRAM bits since I've never tested both. I would assume it does. I'm liking the option to use <12sp bits w/Wheeltop as I still have old parts I can use up.
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the moment you decide to make it replaceable you need to add thickness to the screw-on cap, a rubber gasket and additional assembly steps at the plant. this way you can make it smaller, flimsier and also not have to do a 5-yr durability study.
Fair enough in theory. But in practice, the Wheeltop pack seems to be of comparable size to the SRAM removable packs. (not certain as I haven't seen in person). And more significantly, you forfeit the reassurance of being able to carry a spare. With AXS, I can easily keep a spare in my pack or swap batteries on a 2x if I run out while riding. Sure, they last long enough that it shouldn't happen if you pay attention unless you're in the boondocks for days. But in reality, it does and people are concerned about the possibility. Shimano's Di2 approach (and the LTWOO eGR) handles this with a large battery so it's really unlikely you will wear it out while in use. It doesn't protect from user error though.
To me, if the claims of 20k shifts per charge are accurate, the fixed, small battery approach on the Wheeltop seems like a good compromise. But I wouldn't trust it until that lifespan is verified. I don't get 20k shifts out of AXS or LTWOO. The spec is also not revealing the drain of simply existing. Keeping the radios alive (when they are) and the motions sensors (to turn it on) all the time. IMO, that standby power drain is non-trivial in the total charge cycle. It seems like the reality of these electronic systems is XXX shifts and/or a month(ish) between charges whichever comes first and a tradeoff. Totally acceptable performance, but important to realize that time is a factor as well.
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Their QC doesn't seem to be much better than Ltwoo, really, so not a huge advantage over Ltwoo really at that price.
The advantage is neither pricing nor QC, it is compatibility with basically any cassette no matter the gears and "AXS-style-shifting-with-easy-to-bleed-non-DOT-brakes"
Something you neither get from LTWOO, nor Shimano, nor SRAM, nor anybody else.
This obviously doesnt mean QC isnt important, but GeX brings much more -at least on paper- than "just another cheapish alternative only worth considering when not able/willing to pay for big brand"
But in reality, it does and people are concerned about the possibility. Shimano's Di2 approach (and the LTWOO eGR) handles this with a large battery so it's really unlikely you will wear it out while in use.
In reality it acutally turns out to be the other way around... if starting full, both systems a very unlikey to run out during a ride, but a small battery you routinely charge at the end of each day/ride is much less likely to be forgotten / not charged in comparison to a very large battery where charging is only required once every few month or so.
I basically never forget to charge my smartphone over night, connecting it when going asleep is a routine like tooth brushing.
But I actually tend to regularly forget charging/changing batteries on my digital scale, tv remote, wallclock, etc. just because of their long run times.
And more significantly, you forfeit the reassurance of being able to carry a spare. With AXS, I can easily keep a spare in my pack or swap batteries on a 2x if I run out while riding.
Or in other words: with AXS you need an expensive seperate proprietary battery in your pack (which then can only be used for your AXS derailleur) while with GeX you could just use the same cheap and widely available USB powerbank which you are very likely to carry in your pack anyways (because it is used for your bike computer, bike lights, smartphone, etc.) plus a probably cheapish and very light/small cable.
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The advantage is neither pricing nor QC, it is compatibility with basically any cassette no matter the gears and "AXS-style-shifting-with-easy-to-bleed-non-DOT-brakes"
Something you neither get from LTWOO, nor Shimano, nor SRAM, nor anybody else.
This obviously doesnt mean QC isnt important, but GeX brings much more -at least on paper- than "just another cheapish alternative only worth considering when not able/willing to pay for big brand"
In reality it acutally turns out to be the other way around... if starting full, both systems a very unlikey to run out during a ride, but a small battery you routinely charge at the end of each day/ride is much less likely to be forgotten / not charged in comparison to a very large battery where charging is only required once every few month or so.
I basically never forget to charge my smartphone over night, connecting it when going asleep is a routine like tooth brushing.
But I actually tend to regularly forget charging/changing batteries on my digital scale, tv remote, wallclock, etc. just because of their long run times.
Or in other words: with AXS you need an expensive seperate proprietary battery in your pack (which then can only be used for your AXS derailleur) while with GeX you could just use the same cheap and widely available USB powerbank which you are very likely to carry in your pack anyways (because it is used for your bike computer, bike lights, smartphone, etc.) plus a probably cheapish and very light/small cable.
Aside from backpacking I don't think many people are carrying a power bank around with them...
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Aside from backpacking I don't think many people are carrying a power bank around with them...
I mean, not on the bike. But a lot of people carry them around when traveling. For the Ltwoo eGR, it doesn't take that long to get some charge in the batteries and a little charge seems to go a long way. If you're that low, 20-30 min on the charger is probably enough to get you through most any reasonable ride, I would think. Before you ride, pull out your power bank and pop it on there, then go fill your water bottles, eat a banana, check your tire pressure, etc. That's not even wasted time.
If you've got a much longer or more challenging ride, just take a little longer, idk.
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Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html)
I finally got around to replacing my gritty jockey wheel last night. I had bought a super cheap aluminum ZTTO branded 13T ball bearing jockey wheel as part of a choice purchase on Ali for less than $2. I was worried it might be too big, but it actually turned out to be smaller than the original. I believe I counted 14t on the Ltwoo wheel. So, close enough to not be an issue. I'm not sure if 15T would fit, but I would think anything 16T or bigger would likely be too big.
13T was fine and the jockey wheel worked for now. I'm afraid that this bearing wasn't sealed, either, and will suffer the same fate as the original once I hit some water and mud. At that point, I'll just replace the bearing since I'm pretty confident I can pop a new one in and out of the wheel and will likely go ahead and do that to the stock one now that I have it out.
I replaced the bottom jockey wheel. Has anyone replaced the top jockey wheel, or even removed it? I can't seem to remove mine. The hardware for the arm is not backing out. I didn't investigate further, but it almost looked like it wasn't designed to simply "unscrew".
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
Some people have both groupsets, but no one has taken the time to try it. You wouldn't even need to remove the groupset from either bike, you just need to hold the ER9/EGR RD button and shifter button and see if they'll link up.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
Yeah, I've had that problem before. Maybe not that extreme, but at least once I thought it was happily charging for hours and then said it was done, only to discover it only had a couple of percent more than when it started.
I've gotten in the habit of giving the port a little wipe with my finger right before I drop the mag plug on it. Seems to be working pretty reliably so far and is easy.
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I've got the problem where I can't charge it, AGAIN ::)
OK, resolved. I had to find a wall unit with 5v 2A+, and then use a cocktail stick to clean the central contact point of the charging point on the RD. Now I am getting a charge. That port really needs a cover.
Just place a small strip of electrical tape. That should protect it.
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Just place a small strip of electrical tape. That should protect it.
Honestly, I'd be just as worried about residue from the electrical tape. You just gotta give it a good wipe before you plop the charger plug down. At least with mud/dirt/dust I can wipe it off, but with ultra sticky tape residue, you'd have to give it a good alcohol rub or something.
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Someone had a problem with charging cable ? Mine doesn’t function anymore. It seems to be electronics because when I plug it into an USB power bank, the power bank seems to shut down immediately.
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I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.
Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.
I tried to knock a seized bearing out and the pulley wheel snapped in two. Ah well. Plenty of cheap replacements with better bearings. This groupset is off to the winter bike. Too many problems. Wheeltop GEX on the way for the gravel bike.
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Someone had a problem with charging cable ? Mine doesn’t function anymore. It seems to be electronics because when I plug it into an USB power bank, the power bank seems to shut down immediately.
Lots of people report issues charging when there is some debris or residue on the charging contacts on the rear derailleur. I've had it fail to charge or report fully charged when it's not. You could try to wipe those thoroughly and see if that helps.
If you're sure it's the charger cable, you can order an extra one.
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On 80's store's page the description says "2024 new" - does that mean this is an improved version with better water proofing and what not? Anyone bought this recently and want to share observations...there are two buyers on that page asking the same question, without answers.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806553294324.html
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On 80's store's page the description says "2024 new" - does that mean this is an improved version with better water proofing and what not? Anyone bought this recently and want to share observations...there are two buyers on that page asking the same question, without answers.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806553294324.html
Answer from 80's :
"Dear ROBERT, the waterproof design has been upgraded, but it is recommended that you still be careful when washing the car, especially not with high pressure water gun to wash, thank you."
My name isn't Robert, so I don't really know what they meant by that haha.
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Answer from 80's :
"Dear ROBERT, the waterproof design has been upgraded, but it is recommended that you still be careful when washing the car, especially not with high pressure water gun to wash, thank you."
My name isn't Robert, so I don't really know what they meant by that haha.
Perfect! So they did upgrade something. May be not to the level of Di2 but a welcome step nevertheless.
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You know, everyone talks a lot about the issues with the eR9 and eRX, but I've heard so very, very little about the eGR. I'm guessing they had very little to change and update with a new version. At least, I hope that's the case since I'm an original eGR owner.
I mean, they could redesign some things about it, like increasing the max cassette size (max is currently 48t or 46t, officially, though unofficially it's supposed to fit 50t). They could also tweak software or firmware to add more features that have been requested.
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Firmware, yes, but there are a few frustrations I have:
- Reported charge level is inconsistent
- The torque settings on the arm to the hanger are completely wrong 12Nm will seize it up, when it is supposed to rotate. The upper one that should be tight, comes loose when torqued to 10Nm as specced
- The charge port needs a cover, or the centre part should not be recessed, as even the smallest amount of dirt can stop it charging properly and it isn't that easy to clean, needs a cocktail stick or similar
- It's very easy to get ghost shifts from the levers
- Range should be 50T not 46T
- pulley wheel bearings are junk - if they get wet once they're dead, need replacing immediately
- Stronger magnet needed on charging port
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Firmware, yes, but there are a few frustrations I have:
- Reported charge level is inconsistent
- The torque settings on the arm to the hanger are completely wrong 12Nm will seize it up, when it is supposed to rotate. The upper one that should be tight, comes loose when torqued to 10Nm as specced
- The charge port needs a cover, or the centre part should not be recessed, as even the smallest amount of dirt can stop it charging properly and it isn't that easy to clean, needs a cocktail stick or similar
- It's very easy to get ghost shifts from the levers
- Range should be 50T not 46T
- pulley wheel bearings are junk - if they get wet once they're dead, need replacing immediately
- Stronger magnet needed on charging port
Torque are 10-12 for both on mine, upper is tight, lower is free for me with 12Nm for both.
No ghost shift for me (I have xtar 2.5c batteries)
Pulleys wheels are okay for me but I only did 150km.
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Both of my links (upper and lower) are completely tight with ANY amount of torque. (i.e. as soon as the hardware is tightened, there is friction and the link is locked).
I wonder if I'm somehow missing a bushing or a washer or something? But, it's been like that since I first installed it.
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Yeah if the lower is free at 12Nm, it sounds like me and you are missing something...
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Well...couldn't resist the holiday coupons and pulled the trigger on a eGR group.
I'll keep my GR9 on my current bike as I look for a new gravel frame to put the eGR on. Might actually try something will full cable integration since I don't have to worry about cable routing as much.
Bought from 80 Designer Store as they took care of me when my GR9 group had issues.
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Hi, someone maybe have info if shiffters from EGR work with RD from erx/er9 or shiffters from er9 with RD from EGR?
So yes it works ! And you can have a front derailleur (er9 in my case) with your egr rear derailleur ;)
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I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).
Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! ;D
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I finally installed my eGR I bought during the Black Friday sale. Works great, but I have a huge features request LTwoo should implement. I was previously running 2 wheelsets with both XD and HG cassettes. When I was running mechanical, all it took was a slight adjustment on the barrel adjuster and lower limit screw. It took less than 30 seconds to adjust. Without having wheel profiles, I now have to individually adjust each cassette cog, regardless if they're both 11 speed. I know others have multiple cassette speeds and that's just another issue worth addressing. As it stands, you can only adjust for 1 cassette and 1 speed selection (10, 11, 12, etc.).
Anyways my initial first impressions is that it works great. The one perk with electronic shifting is that every shift is perfect and the improved shifter button haptics on the eGR shift levers are much better. Plus having learned the quirks of the LTwoo system with the eR9, makes me appreciate the subtle improvements on the eGR. Battery-wise, I picked up some cheap blue batteries, but surprisingly they work quite well with no issues. I think LTwoo did themselves a disservice with their shoddy customer service and bad QC on the early batches of eR9/eRX hardware. The engineering is there and for those willing to get their hands dirty, this groupset is an amazing value! I bought my eGR for less than $300 USD! ;D
That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.
1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.
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That has been my use case (11s HG and XDr wheelsets) and it hasn't been an issue for me. Perhaps I just got lucky since both cassettes are from the same manufacturer (Garbaruk). But two thoughts occur to me on how to make this work for you.
1) Maybe one could use a shim to put it in the same lateral position as the other and thus blindly swappable.
2) If you do have to recalibrate between cassettes, did you try only doing the main index change? I made the mistake when first installing of not doing that right and found that using the individual settings 'works' but sucks. By getting the primary right first it works much better and might deal with your issue.
I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.
On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.
If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.
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Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed
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Did anyone install eGR on a bike with a dropper post? where did you put the battery?
I know there are downtube mounts with a battery installed through the opening under the bb but I don't have that opening in the frame,
The only solution that comes to mind is to just bubble wrap the battery and put it inside of the seat tube once the dropper cable is routed
Yes. Not ideal. I mounted mine externally. I wrapped the case in heatshrink and used a pump mount to mount it next to the seat tube bottle cage. Then ran the wires along the frame wrapped in silicone self-stick tape (the kind that sticks to itself and doesn't use glue to the frame). Worked fine but kinda fugly. I didn't have the exit holes in the frame anyway so external was the only option (besides drilling).
I've read of some people stashing the battery in the down tube instead. Depending on how your BB is set up that could work well.
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I was tweaking it today and the 2 cassettes I'm running are just too different (ZTTO 9-46t & Sunrace 11-46t) to calibrate. I'll probably replace the Sunrace with another ZTTO cassette, but I'm not really fond of the alloy big cog on that cassette. I had to return one because the alloy cog tooth broke off.
On my wheelset with the ZTTO 9-46t plus gravel slicks, it's not an issue since I don't even use the 46t cog, but I need the 9t for the extra road speed. On the trails I need more durability with my climbing gears and less emphasis on speed. The alloy big cogs on the Sunrace cassette is actually very durable compared to other cassettes I've tried.
If I do shim the cassette, it might be for the ZTTO cassette since I believe XD is just slightly more in-board.
If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)
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If you're using the 9t that much and not the 46t, you might be better off with a bigger chainring (if it fits)
My off-road terrain is all the mountains, but I live close enough I ride from my front door. So there's a balance between decent road speeds and low gear climbing.
I've already tried 40t-thru-44t. I found 38t and xx-46t hits that perfect balance for my area. My ideal cassette would be an all-steel, lightweight 9/10-46t (similar to the Spedao 10-42t), but no one makes it! :(
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Fair enough. I have similar needs but want a LOW LOW gear so run a 10-50 (XDr) and an 11-50 (HG) with a 32t. Yeah, I spin that out over about 22mph/35kph but don't care because on the gravel bike that's downhill anyway ;) I'd get my butt handed to me on a road group ride so I would take a different bike.
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I got caught in some rain with my eGR. The groupset handled the wet weather like a champ. I'm hoping LTwoo will implement the improved weather sealing with their road groupsets! Once you go electronic, especially for gravel, it's hard to go back to mechanical! ;D
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I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.
Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.
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I think I'm finally facing real issues from my earlier crash. See my attached picture.
Since I 'upgraded' to 12sp and put on a 50t cassette, the shifting is a little more sluggish and less refined due to the excessive b-screw distance needed to allow that 50t cassette to fit. If I shift entirely too quickly into the larger cassette rings, it will *sometimes* bind because the jockey wheel moves into position against the cassette before the chain grabs (the chain needs to grab first or else the derailleur doesn't expand and create the room for it to fit). Anyway, I can deal with all that. That's just part of using this system beyond its official, stated capacity. My real issue is that I will occasionally drop my chain at the 1st jockey wheel (green arrow on pic). It happens 100% of the time that this shifting collision has occurred, and at least once otherwise. I can see a tiny bit of weirdness in my jockey wheel arms and I suspect that they were slightly bent or twisted in my crash. 99.9% of the time, I don't have an issue. But, when this happens, it's a big issue. I wish I could procure replacement jockey wheel arms.
I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec). I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting. I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t. Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.
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I had similar challenges running a 10-50t cassette (yes, that is out of spec). I set the slower shifting and disabled full range auto mode (if I'm not confusing the specific options) to keep from ramming the derailleur up against the 50t cog while shifting. I'm fairly certain that one of the compatibility constraints is the angle and shape of the travel as it goes from small to big. It wasn't made to push the jockey wheel down enough as it goes all the way inboard since they didn't design it for 50t. Go one cog at a time, and the chain motion seems to be able to make it happen fine. But try to express shift and it is likely to jam at least partially.
Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.
On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
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Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.
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Has anyone tried a Goatlink/hanger extender with the eGR? I could imagine it’d give the b screw just a little bit more leeway to clear a 50t big cog.
Good question. I considered it but on my bike the hanger and B-screw were enough to put it in the right place. Might not be true with other hangers.
But I don't think the Goatlink (or similar) will help the 'too steep a ramp' problem on the out-of-spec 50t. Or at least not without possibly making for problematic shifting on the smaller cogs by holding it too far away.
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Yeah goatlink doesn't help. You can get enough clearance with the B screw but the overall shifting is compromised. I would 100% suggest Wheeltop if you need to run 50T.
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Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.
If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
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On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
Good to know spare parts are available instead of just having to replace the whole unit. I could've saved a little money with another vendor, but this after sales care is why I also bought mine from 80 designer store.
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If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
Well, I'm about to find out. 80s designer store just sold me a replacement cage for mine that was likely damaged.
The funny thing is, Ltwoo sells "upgrade" derailleur cage assemblies for most other popular groupsets by Shimano and maybe Sram, but not for their own derailleurs! Which, maybe made sense when they were selling "budget" groupsets, but now they're selling "premium" groupsets I would have thought they'd make some bling parts for people who are into that sorta thing.
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Just to confirm, is the Wheeltop Gex the same RD just with longer cage to clear the bigger cassette? From the looks of it, if the eGR cage is removable, then it can accommodate a long cage for better in-spec 50t shifting, correct? Similar how you can swap out the cage on a GRX 812 RD for a Garbaruk cage.
If so, either LTwoo or another vendor should design a different cage for the eGR. :)
Wheeltop offers the GeX with two cage lengths one rated to 46t and one to 51t (the one I'm also using). I've heard second-hand that they've said it should work on 52t also but they had some problems on some bikes and decided not so officially support that.
More importantly, the GeX is a different RD than the road TX version. So likely the geometry in the main links is different to allow for a wider range cassette as well. The TX only supports 36t
Given that the LTWOO eGR DOES work up to 50t, just not optimally, I'm not sure a longer cage would help all that much. I haven't observed problems with chain wrap (taking up the slack) which is usually what is helped with a long cage. For example, tike the Garbaruk one I had on a Force RD before the LTWOO to reach 50t. It also DID work, but didn't shift quite as slickly as I would have liked (and why I'm playing with other options) I think it is a geometry challenge in the motion that leaves the upper jockey wheel either too close to the 50t or too far from the 11t
To be clear, the LTWOO does work all the way to 50t. It is just not optimal. You must step one cog at a time in the last couple. For rated capacity and a Di2 prepped frame, I'd happily use it again (and it's sitting on a shelf with that intent)
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
My eGR arrived a week or so ago. Calipers look similar to my GR9 ones. Spacing seems to be 70mm on both gr9 and eGR. Was GR9 originally flat mount?
Here’s a pic of the battery it came with…even though I selected the no battery option.
EDIT: It seems the mounting hardware is different from GR9 to eGR. Not sure if that's what makes it post mount instead of flat.
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I just ordered a eGr from 80s Designer Store, looking forward to it arriving as I've been contemplating ordering since release.
Has anyone ordered the latest version and can confirm that it comes with post nount calipers? A very strange change to make in 2024 if you ask me. Been runing gr9 for a year so I know all about their issues with their own bolt scheme. Maybe I'll just go with some Shimanos this time.
Anyone know what design the 14500 batteries should have? (piece sticking out or flat)
Any other recommendations when installing?
I'm almost positive you need the ones with the little nub (not the flat ones). Also, probably best to get one without any kind of circuit board or other fancy internal features.
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Yep! Exactly right. Again, we're using it out of spec and it still works (mostly) fine, but with the extra space required on the b-screw it's not as snappy and responsive to shift as it was before.
On a happy note, 80's Designer store seems to have agreed to sell me replacement "wheel guides and wheel", so I'll soon find out if that's the part I think it is. I shared the same image where I circled the lower parts and that's what they replied back with. I'll update when I receive them. Whether it works or not, it's another example of 80s Designer Store being the #1 best store to buy this groupset from, as their response has been fast and I'm really happy they are willing and able to sell replacement parts for it.
Edit: (added picture provided by 80s Designer Store showing what they are providing)
This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?
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This is exactly what I need after I bent the cage. How much did it set you back?
$30 + tax. I think it worked out to be about $33 exactly.
I had reached out to them via Ali Express message to ask about it.
They sent me some kind of Ali Express invoice or code or something to purchase $15 "Extra Fee". They instructed me via message to purchase qty 2 of them = $30. Once it processed it seems to be proceeding like any other order with tracking numbers and everything else. They sent me more pics at that point to show them packaged up and shipping.
I'll try and post pics when I receive it and install it and generally update about the process of changing them. Fingers crossed that I don't run into any issues. I have a gravel race this weekend, so hopefully it holds out long enough to ride that and I can receive shortly after that to have it ready in time for the next one.
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My eGR arrived a week or so ago. Calipers look similar to my GR9 ones. Spacing seems to be 70mm on both gr9 and eGR. Was GR9 originally flat mount?
Here’s a pic of the battery it came with…even though I selected the no battery option.
EDIT: It seems the mounting hardware is different from GR9 to eGR. Not sure if that's what makes it post mount instead of flat.
Here's to hoping. The listing specifically said post mount. Also great news about the battery. Hopefully mine comes with one too.
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Here's to hoping. The listing specifically said post mount. Also great news about the battery. Hopefully mine comes with one too.
If I'm not mistaken the calipers themselves are indeed post mount, but the hardware makes them compatible with flat mount. That's how they get around patents.
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If they're anything like my GR9 then they're neither but Ltwoo's own standard, to avoid paying Shimano. 73 mm (I think). They came with mounting hardware but not one that would work on my current fork, and several others have also had the same issue. We'll see. I would not be that annoyed having to get some Ultegra calipers used or something like that.
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Any one have a chance to try an AXS cassette? AKA an XPLR or 10-36? I’m curious if these can be micro adjusted to shift one well. With a flattop chain and SRAM X Sync chainring.
I am keen to know if anyone has this setup, ifworks well and if you need to change the pulley wheels to suit the flattop chain?
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I am keen to know if anyone has this setup, ifworks well and if you need to change the pulley wheels to suit the flattop chain?
I'd like to know this as well. There are some attractive SRAM cassette options.
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Recived now. Works flawless straight out of the box. We'll see when I install it. Still deciding on frame. Same breaks as Garza, same mounting as the GR9 ones. As long as they fit confidently on the fork on the new bike, no problem. Think I'll try findiing replacement charge and connection cables, would suck to f one up and wait for weeks for a replacement.
Any suggestions for replacement pulley wheels? 11 speed gravel cassettes?
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Any suggestions for replacement pulley wheels? 11 speed gravel cassettes?
So far I'm pretty happy with my cheapo 12sp Sunshine 11-50 alloy cassette. It's super lightweight, considering the size and shifts mostly pretty smooth. I've seen the same one under a few different brand names, I think, incluidng Goldix. Be warned, though, the eGR will work with 50t, but it isn't the best option. The shifting suffers in the highest gears because the b-screw needs so much room to clear, but you also suffer in the lowest gears because if you shift too quickly the pulley wheel will actually strike the cassette.
I know you were asking for 11t options, but I only brought it up because I was surprised that such a dirt cheap cassette works so dang well.
Edit: I believe I have this one, in the 12sp 11-50 configuration. You may want to consider the 11-46 11sp configuration, or maybe see if you can find an 11-48t cassette somewhere.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805811005103.html
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I have that one in 11-46 11 speed actually. Ordered during a sale this fall but never got to install it before winter (Scandinavia).
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Had a little fun yesterday in the snowmageddon (US deep south, not used to this stuff).
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Battery mounting question:
I'm moving my eGR to a new bike that can actually route the wire from the seatpost through the frame to the RD (the previous frame, I had to mount it externally, yuck). I'm trying to figure out how to secure the battery in the seatpost.
- Is there a fit kit that came with it I need to root around in my garage for?
- Will normal Di2 fit kits work?
- What other tricks have people used?
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Battery mounting question:
I'm moving my eGR to a new bike that can actually route the wire from the seatpost through the frame to the RD (the previous frame, I had to mount it externally, yuck). I'm trying to figure out how to secure the battery in the seatpost.
- Is there a fit kit that came with it I need to root around in my garage for?
- Will normal Di2 fit kits work?
- What other tricks have people used?
I just cut the bubble wrap that came with the groupset and taped it around the battery holder. I tied ribbon to the battery holder just in case it gets stuck in the seat post. No issues either with my gravel bike and 27.2mm seat post. It stays snug.
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I just cut the bubble wrap that came with the groupset and taped it around the battery holder. I tied ribbon to the battery holder just in case it gets stuck in the seat post. No issues either with my gravel bike and 27.2mm seat post. It stays snug.
Good to know. It's a 27.2 and I was thinking of something similar (soft closed cell foam) but had not thought of the safety string. Where did you attach that so it doesn't just drop down?
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Good to know. It's a 27.2 and I was thinking of something similar (soft closed cell foam) but had not thought of the safety string. Where did you attach that so it doesn't just drop down?
There's indented sections on both the top and bottom of the battery holder. Ribbon seems to work for me since it's flat, easy to grab and can be tied/removed with little effort.
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Ahh. Although I was actually concerned about the 'other end' that you'd have to pull on to retrieve the battery
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Ahh. Although I was actually concerned about the 'other end' that you'd have to pull on to retrieve the battery
You can make that ribbon longer, just in case the ribbon on the lower end comes off. It's more of a redundancy. :)
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Rapid drain or charge status failure
I did get my eGR remounted properly in the seatpost (vs external before) of the new (to me) bike. Thanks for the advice earlier. So much nicer looking that way.
BUT, I got an unhappy surprise on my ride today when it died. I last checked via app about a week ago and it showed 65% I went on a 41 mile ride and hung it upside down for a few days. Went out this morning and it died 2 miles in. Once I applied power and could reconnect it was indeed at 4% dead.
So it appears that one of two things happened:
1) 65% indicated is erroneous and should be considered very low. FWIW, I reinstalled it showing 74% and did not charge at that time. 71 miles later it showed 65% which seemed pretty reasonable. Deat at 112 miles. (I don't have shift count but that 41miles in between was a heavier than average shifting exercise. Note: I took the 'bring your own battery cell' approach when ordered. So I'm aware that a different cell than the manufacturer calibrated on (even in spec) could be the problem. But I suspect a lot of people buy it this way since the LiOn shipping costs are so high.
2) A wild theory: Hanging it upside down for storage keeps the motion-sensing RD alive and drains the battery. PURE THEORY but it seems possible.
Does anyone have thoughts?
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Rapid drain or charge status failure
So it appears that one of two things happened:
1) 65% indicated is erroneous and should be considered very low. FWIW, I reinstalled it showing 74% and did not charge at that time. 71 miles later it showed 65% which seemed pretty reasonable. Deat at 112 miles. (I don't have shift count but that 41miles in between was a heavier than average shifting exercise. Note: I took the 'bring your own battery cell' approach when ordered. So I'm aware that a different cell than the manufacturer calibrated on (even in spec) could be the problem. But I suspect a lot of people buy it this way since the LiOn shipping costs are so high.
2) A wild theory: Hanging it upside down for storage keeps the motion-sensing RD alive and drains the battery. PURE THEORY but it seems possible.
Does anyone have thoughts?
1) This may be dependent on your battery. But I can regularly get MANY more than 112 miles out of a charge. Also, 65% is not anywhere near dead for me. Again, assuming your unit is otherwise not damaged, it could be that your battery cells are responsible for this.
2) I can't speak for hanging "upside down", but I sometimes store mine by hanging it 90deg against a wall (hanging it on a wall by the front wheel) and I have not experienced any draining.
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I just got back from a weekend bug out in the desert. I threw all of nature at my LTwoo EGR and the groupset held up like a champ. At this point if people are having issues with their hardware, please just use your local bike shop! Blows my mind with all the whiny cyclists on this forum who start raging when life gets a bit difficult! ::)
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Hi,
will this groupset fit for my TanTan GR040 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841)) with flat mount holes?
Many thanks, Dennis
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Hi,
will this groupset fit for my TanTan GR040 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841 (http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=841)) with flat mount holes?
Many thanks, Dennis
It should fit fine. Worst case scenario is that you'll have a very close fit trying to tighten the screws on the rear brake adapter + caliper. Also don't over tighten the screws on the adapter plates, I've already stripped the thread on two of them. I bought extra adapter plates from 80 Design store as backup. It's the only downside to the eGR brake caliper design, despite being very good brakes (probably the best I've tried).
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
Clean your battery cable and RD magnetic port. I periodically wipe both down with a cotton swab and alcohol. After camping trips, my RD is very dirty so I find the alcohol does the trick cleaning debris on the magnetic port.
This should hopefully fix your issue! ;)
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Clean your battery cable and RD magnetic port. I periodically wipe both down with a cotton swab and alcohol. After camping trips, my RD is very dirty so I find the alcohol does the trick cleaning debris on the magnetic port.
This should hopefully fix your issue! ;)
Unfortunately, I have done both several times, on both cables I have. Still unstable. If I keep trying it over and over it will eventually connect
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Sooooo, is anybody else having problems charging your system?
Everytime I have to charge my eGR, it is a hassle. Twice I've had it started only to come back later and find that it didn't charge. Not only that but trying to get a connection is maddening. It just doesn't want to.
So what have I tried:
- I have two cables and both have the same challenges. I know to check the USB A side and make sure to have a green light before trying. (I do forget between times that when it is charging, that changes to red)
- I make a point to clean the contact on the RD. (Please tell me why an exposed contact is facing up?) I also clean the cable end. I've used fingers, towel, a soft brush etc.
- Repeated attempts to make contact. The magnet snaps but over and over no light. Or a brief light then nothing
Any tips? Am I doing something wrong? Is this a defect I should be trying to warranty?
I had this problem and it turned out that it needed a powerful wall unit (like you have for a smartphone) and it wouldn't charge properly off a weaker unit or a laptop usb port, for example.
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I just apply a bit of pressure on the battery connector and wait for the light to start flashing. Clean my connectors on a regular basis with an alcohol damp swab. All three of my LTwoo groupsets have been holding up.
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Some great discounts available on aliexpress right now, especially if you use all of the available vouchers and cashback.
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New Version of LTWOO eGR Derailleur?
So, I wrote to my reseller (80 Designer Store on Aliexpress) about the charge problem. They promptly replied offering a warranty replacement for a nominal shipping charge ($15). Deal. But they 'warned' me that they only had the new, 10-50t version. Uhhhh, excuse me? Sure, send it. Awesome response
It arrived today (about a week). It is indeed a different version. The cage now measures 90mm bolt to bolt where the original one was only 83mm. That seems to suggest that it could support 50t now. But I cannot fine ANY reference to such a thing anywhere in the English web. The LTWOO mechanical RD can do it but the product page still says 46t for eGR. I cannot observe any other differences to the earlier version (delivered in May 2024). It does weigh 15g more and 7mm of cage doesn't account for that. The app does not differentiate their versions either.
Has anyone else heard of an update. I've been looking at reports from Taipei bike show but nobody has mentioned it that I've seen yet.
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Lucky find! I think that's news to everyone. Any other obvious visual differences or just a longer cage?
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I can't see anything and I've looked at them side by side.
What I have noticed is that it works with my 10-50 WAY better. (Yes, I know I was running it out of spec). I haven't had it on the road yet but what I've noticed is:
- Almost no B screw tension to put it in position on a 50t. With V1, it needed nearly full extension
- On the stand, shifting at the bigger cogs seems crisper
- The initial calibration point is WAY off. But it was on the V1 as well. The position for gear 1 lines up about the 5th cog. Easy enough to fix with the initial calibration but it makes one think it's messed up at first. Once calibrated, no micro adjustment needed on a Garbuaruk 11s
We'll see on the road tomorrow I hope.
(http://)
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I wonder if it's possible to swap out the cage on the V1 using the longer V2 cage? Has anyone tried it?
Also I saw one of the AliEx sellers having listed the eGR has having 50t max cog. So I'm wondering if this update has silently been implemented without anyone noticing?
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I wonder if it's possible to swap out the cage on the V1 using the longer V2 cage? Has anyone tried it?
Also I saw one of the AliEx sellers having listed the eGR has having 50t max cog. So I'm wondering if this update has silently been implemented without anyone noticing?
I don't know, but about 2 months ago I ordered a replacement cage from 80's Designer Store and I haven't actually put it on yet. I'm going to go check it tonight to see if it's an exact replacement for the original or if there are any differences. I suspect the differences run much deeper than just a longer cage, though, since I don't even think the cage was fully removable and the parts I received were only one side of it (one of the reasons I didn't put it on yet).
Edit: I just pulled it out to compare, and the replacement cage I ordered is an exact copy of the original. Also, again, confirmed that it's really just one side of the cage so it's of limited use if I actually completely bork the cage in another crash.
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I bought an additional wheeltop groupset just because I needed the 50T capacity ::) ah well.
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I bought an additional wheeltop groupset just because I needed the 50T capacity ::) ah well.
I was super tempted to get one of those discounted Wheeltop GeX groupsets on AliEx just for the 50t. Though if LTwoo is going full wireless with the MTB eTX, I might just go with that since I do like LTwoo's app fine-tuning.
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This listing has total capacity listed as 50t. So I'm guessing they just secretly put a longer RD cage without telling anyone!
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806450112754.html)
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I can't see anything and I've looked at them side by side.
What I have noticed is that it works with my 10-50 WAY better. (Yes, I know I was running it out of spec). I haven't had it on the road yet but what I've noticed is:
- Almost no B screw tension to put it in position on a 50t. With V1, it needed nearly full extension
- On the stand, shifting at the bigger cogs seems crisper
- The initial calibration point is WAY off. But it was on the V1 as well. The position for gear 1 lines up about the 5th cog. Easy enough to fix with the initial calibration but it makes one think it's messed up at first. Once calibrated, no micro adjustment needed on a Garbuaruk 11s
We'll see on the road tomorrow I hope.
(http://)
So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
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So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
Should be. LTwoo is mostly cross-compatible across the board with components.
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So it’s plug and play with the rest of the V1 components?
I’m interested to hear how you go with this!
I can find no indication of it being an officially different version (other than the cage length). And it plugged straight in to the existing power and paired right up with the shifters.
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That's my one issue with LTwoo, they're all over the place when it comes to their hardware revisions. For example, I have 2 ER9 groupsets and they're running separate firmwares most likely due to having different internal hardware. If it weren't for 80 Design Store backing their international warranty service, LTwoo would be dead in the water right now.
Even in China having talked to local cyclists over there, they're not very popular. Shimano is still the go-to with the Chinese cycling scene.
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That's my one issue with LTwoo, they're all over the place when it comes to their hardware revisions. For example, I have 2 ER9 groupsets and they're running separate firmwares most likely due to having different internal hardware.
This issue is not specific to LTwoo, it applies to China in general. I even experienced this working in the electronics industry, Chinese are not afraid to change or to innovate.
But it appears this is happening randomly and opportunistic, without clear strategy and no documentation, information & transparency for customers.
Just look at RideNow TPU tubes, several versions from black to transparent to black/pink valve stems.
Or the various headset iterations for the famous C compression ring from Velobuild.
Selling is one aspect of the business, but supporting everything that you have sold is another level that Chinese seem to have limited consciousness of.
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I can find no indication of it being an officially different version (other than the cage length). And it plugged straight in to the existing power and paired right up with the shifters.
I just ordered a new cage from 80 Design as I bent my original one. It'll be interesting to see whether it's the longer one (I hope so, as I'm running a large cassette out of spec)
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I just ordered a new cage from 80 Design as I bent my original one. It'll be interesting to see whether it's the longer one (I hope so, as I'm running a large cassette out of spec)
I'll be very curious to hear.
I asked a follow-up for details on the one I got and all they would say is that they hoped they'd be able to sell the new version soon. I inferred that they got some early production on an unreleased product.
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I'll be very curious to hear.
I asked a follow-up for details on the one I got and all they would say is that they hoped they'd be able to sell the new version soon. I inferred that they got some early production on an unreleased product.
I just ordered a new cage from 80 Design as I bent my original one. It'll be interesting to see whether it's the longer one (I hope so, as I'm running a large cassette out of spec)
Sorry, when I found out the answer, I went back and edited my original post instead of making a new reply.
I did check and found that the replacement cage I received was an exact replacement of my original eGR cage. Also, as I originally noted, it was only "half" of the cage (one side of it). It seems like maybe the other half/side of it is possibly integrated with part of a linkage that's more difficult to replace and they didn't send that piece.
I'm fine with them making incremental upgrades or even "big" model-year revisions, but the lack of clarity from a "model" standpoint makes me worry about getting replacement parts and service as time goes on. Even if parts are somehow available if they're damaged in a few months or next year, how can I even ask for a replacement if everything is just "eGR" and not "eGR 2023" or "eGR v.1". I don't even know if I have a 2023 eGR or a 2024 eGR or a v.1 or a v.2.3 or whether the new one is v.2 or v.3 or 2024 or 2025!
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Hello,
I've recently bought a TanTan GR201, and looking for an electronic gravel groupset with front shifting as well.
I know that currently Wheeltop GEX is out of the question, because that surely doesn't support front derailleur.
So here I am with LTWOO eGR, I know I have to buy a separate battery holder with the groupset, so it will have a second connector for the FD. Has anyone tried that it actually works that way?
I have read here that 80 designer store is a great shop, so I would like to buy from there, but as far as I can tell currently there is no listing for a eGR groupset. Are there any shops apart from Aliexpress that will ship me these parts to the EU (Hungary)?
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Hello,
I've recently bought a TanTan GR201, and looking for an electronic gravel groupset with front shifting as well.
I know that currently Wheeltop GEX is out of the question, because that surely doesn't support front derailleur.
So here I am with LTWOO eGR, I know I have to buy a separate battery holder with the groupset, so it will have a second connector for the FD. Has anyone tried that it actually works that way?
I have read here that 80 designer store is a great shop, so I would like to buy from there, but as far as I can tell currently there is no listing for a eGR groupset. Are there any shops apart from Aliexpress that will ship me these parts to the EU (Hungary)?
You're probably having trouble seeing listings for the eGR because they're in the process of swapping out to the new versions once the old versions have sold out.
I'm not sure how well a second battery holder will work out, since the battery holder is meant to be stored in the seat post. I can't imagine two battery holders could ever fit, so where would you keep the second one and how would you affix it?
You'll have to add a FD somehow, so you'll be purchasing that separately from the eGR since the eGR was technically never meant to be paired with a FD. It's only though some minimal testing by others that it seems it *might* work together. If you are deadset on trying it, I would suggest maybe buying a fire-sale eR9 groupset. You can use the single battery pack from the eR9 that has 2 outputs as well as the eR9 FD. You'll also get eR9 brifters. If you are able to find one, then, all you would need is an eGR rear derailleur. It might not be that much cheaper than a full eGR groupset, so maybe you could just buy a full eGR groupset and sell whichever pair of brifters and brakes you don't want and keep all the rest?
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[quote author=amacal1 link=topic=4684.msg78563#msg78563 date=1744039423
I'm not sure how well a second battery holder will work out, since the battery holder is meant to be stored in the seat post. I can't imagine two battery holders could ever fit, so where would you keep the second one and how would you affix it?
[/quote]
I meant a battery holder for eRX, since the eGR battery holder has just on outlet, an I need one for the FD as well, so I would use only 1 battery just not the original one.
What is the difference between the eR9 and eGR brifters?
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[quote author=amacal1 link=topic=4684.msg78563#msg78563 date=1744039423
I meant a battery holder for eRX, since the eGR battery holder has just on outlet, an I need one for the FD as well, so I would use only 1 battery just not the original one.
What is the difference between the eR9 and eGR brifters?
I'm not sure 2x shifting would be great using the eGR. As an experiment, I mounted a 2x 46-30t chainring on my eGR gravel bike and manually shifted the chain on each chainring. What I found is that you're forced to put more cage/cog distance using the B screw. It results in less than ideal shifting especially at the high gears. I guess there are other hacks to get better range, but it just gets overly complicated.
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I'm not sure 2x shifting would be great using the eGR. As an experiment, I mounted a 2x 46-30t chainring on my eGR gravel bike and manually shifted the chain on each chainring. What I found is that you're forced to put more cage/cog distance using the B screw. It results in less than ideal shifting especially at the high gears. I guess there are other hacks to get better range, but it just gets overly complicated.
I have the eGR with a 50t cassette and the b-screw is backed off as far as possible to allow the cassette to fit, and I also experience the less-than-ideal shifting performance. Not bad, per se, just not ideal. It still accurately shifts, just not as quickly.
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I'm not sure 2x shifting would be great using the eGR. As an experiment, I mounted a 2x 46-30t chainring on my eGR gravel bike and manually shifted the chain on each chainring. What I found is that you're forced to put more cage/cog distance using the B screw. It results in less than ideal shifting especially at the high gears. I guess there are other hacks to get better range, but it just gets overly complicated.
I have 46/33 front and only 11-36 on the back currently, I might need 40-42 tops, so that would work I think even better with the slightly longer cage of the newer version
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You'll have to add a FD somehow, so you'll be purchasing that separately from the eGR since the eGR was technically never meant to be paired with a FD. It's only though some minimal testing by others that it seems it *might* work together. If you are deadset on trying it, I would suggest maybe buying a fire-sale eR9 groupset. You can use the single battery pack from the eR9 that has 2 outputs as well as the eR9 FD. You'll also get eR9 brifters. If you are able to find one, then, all you would need is an eGR rear derailleur. It might not be that much cheaper than a full eGR groupset, so maybe you could just buy a full eGR groupset and sell whichever pair of brifters and brakes you don't want and keep all the rest?
IF you want to go ahead with a wide-range rear cassette and/or "clutch" like on the eGR RD, I think that's probably the way to do it.
What you need to do it is the dual-port battery that comes with the road group. The eGR version only has a single port to power the RD. Getting the road set would include that and the shifters/brakes. And then you need the eGR or MTB RD. Supposedly LTWOO will support pairing across product lines. Confirmation on that seems thin though. If I get a chance at Sea Otter I'll try to remember to ask someone.
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IF you want to go ahead with a wide-range rear cassette and/or "clutch" like on the eGR RD, I think that's probably the way to do it.
What you need to do it is the dual-port battery that comes with the road group. The eGR version only has a single port to power the RD. Getting the road set would include that and the shifters/brakes. And then you need the eGR or MTB RD. Supposedly LTWOO will support pairing across product lines. Confirmation on that seems thin though. If I get a chance at Sea Otter I'll try to remember to ask someone.
I have wrote to the official LTWOO support, they said that eGR does not support a FD, Tracevelo said that the brain of the operation is the RD, but I don't think that the inside electronics are so different than the eRX. I might try to ask him to test this, he has every LTWOO electronic groupsets.
Why do you think that it would be better to buy an eRX groupset and an eGR RD? Apart from that, that I would surely have a working 2by system, but I would like to have the eGR brifters, they might be better optimized for gravel.
Thanks! That would be great if someone could verify that this actually works
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but I would like to have the eGR brifters, they might be better optimized for gravel.
Thanks! That would be great if someone could verify that this actually works
1) I'm actually not sure about which brifters would be better. I find the eGR brifters to be uncomfortable. They're thinner and have hard rubber. The combo makes them hard on my hands. The only thing that might be improved is weather sealing (no real indication, just a guess) and the button response (confirmed that eGR is 'click-ier' while eR9 is 'soft-er'). I believe the new eR9 v2/3 brifters are reported to be fatter and more comfortable while also having the more tactile 'clicky' buttons.
2) If you dig through either this thread or the eR9/eRX thread, you should find that someone has already tested (minimally) and found it works. I don't recall that they actually ran the system to flush out any potential issues, only that they paired various brifters, FD, and RD combos to confirm that all the various pieces and parts communicated and the FD shifted while paired with the eGR RD.
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1) I'm actually not sure about which brifters would be better. I find the eGR brifters to be uncomfortable. They're thinner and have hard rubber. The combo makes them hard on my hands. The only thing that might be improved is weather sealing (no real indication, just a guess) and the button response (confirmed that eGR is 'click-ier' while eR9 is 'soft-er'). I believe the new eR9 v2/3 brifters are reported to be fatter and more comfortable while also having the more tactile 'clicky' buttons.
2) If you dig through either this thread or the eR9/eRX thread, you should find that someone has already tested (minimally) and found it works. I don't recall that they actually ran the system to flush out any potential issues, only that they paired various brifters, FD, and RD combos to confirm that all the various pieces and parts communicated and the FD shifted while paired with the eGR RD.
I add extra bar tape on the top section of my LTwoo shifters to make them more comfortable. Also I'll take the eGR brifters over the V1 ER9/X. The haptics on the eGR shift buttons are way better and the brake lever tips are slightly longer, making them easier to use in the drops.
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Why do you think that it would be better to buy an eRX groupset and an eGR RD? Apart from that, that I would surely have a working 2by system, but I would like to have the eGR brifters, they might be better optimized for gravel.
On the requirement to have the dual port battery and FD which are available in the eRX group. So, if the groupset is buyable cheaper than the parts (often the case), that would be efficient. But you could also get eGR and buy a second battery from the eRX group with dual ports and an FD. But that brings up the 'does it really work' with eGR brifters question again. I would have greater confidence (but still unknown) that the eRX 2x setup could talk to an eGR wide-range RD than the eGR 1x brifters (which officially allow you to use left or right to shift the RD but no other combo) to be able to also control the FD. The way pairing works on LTWOO and other wireless systems, it appears that the RD is the master in the system and thus could be the deciding factor in cross comopatibility.
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I thought about it, and I think now is the time to go for a 1by setup. I will buy a PG-1230 11-50 cassette and a 40t front chainring.
But now I'm torn between wheeltop and ltwoo. Ltwoo would be better for my smaller hands and more adjustable for sure, I like the changeable battery. Does the braking feels like Shimano with Ltwoo as well? I like that.
Wheeltop on the other hand surely supports up to 52t big cog. And there is Ltwoo wierd adapters, I have a Rockshow rudy fork, so I hope that a back adapter should be fine with the front caliper for 180 mm rotor, just like shimano (SMMAR160DDA)
What do you think?
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I thought about it, and I think now is the time to go for a 1by setup. I will buy a PG-1230 11-50 cassette and a 40t front chainring.
But now I'm torn between wheeltop and ltwoo. Ltwoo would be better for my smaller hands and more adjustable for sure, I like the changeable battery. Does the braking feels like Shimano with Ltwoo as well? I like that.
Wheeltop on the other hand surely supports up to 52t big cog. And there is Ltwoo wierd adapters, I have a Rockshow rudy fork, so I hope that a back adapter should be fine with the front caliper for 180 mm rotor, just like shimano (SMMAR160DDA)
What do you think?
If waiting is an option, the new Ltwoo eGR version is supposed to have a larger max cassette capacity. Also, their new MTB derailleur looks interesting, especially since it seems it likely pairs with their road and gravel brifters.
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I actually own both LTWOO and Wheeltop on two different bikes. A few notes
- The Wheeltop officially supports 51 not 52. I suspect that 52 would work but, then again there may be a reason they topped it there
- LTWOO has a new RD that DOES work well up to at least 50t. I got it on warranty (charging problems) and they asked if it was ok to send the long cage version (8-9mm longer as it turns out) instead. Heck yeah, I said since I was using the 50t already out of spec. They did not provide any documentation on the new version and I find NOTHING online and there are no markings. So... But it seems clear that there is a new version working into the system and that it supports bigger cassettes. How big? Is it a configuration option or a replacement version? Did anything else change? I don't know. It works well. Better than the original it seems to me.
- The LTWOO strange caliper adapter thing is not great. But seems to work with most. Wheeltop calipers just flat mount with no issue
- Braking feel is kind of a wash. My opinion is problematic because I couldn't use the LTWOO calipers on the first install because of having a post mount bike (I had been led to believe I could just use different adapters. No). So I just used some Shimano calipers which worked great but not exactly stock. When I swapped in the Wheeltop system, I left the Shimano calipers (easier to just couple in than re-thread the hoses) and that worked fine too. When I re-used the LTWOO again on the second bike, I ended up using the Wheeltop calipers :D because they mounted without adapters. So.... It all works. Braking feel and effectiveness is good on both mutt systems. The pads that come with the Wheeltop are bad if you're heavy and/or ride mountains. They feel good riding in unchallenging areas but they melt way too easily on a long descent. I have resin pads on another bike that works fine and these did not. I put metallics in there and it's good now.
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I thought about it, and I think now is the time to go for a 1by setup. I will buy a PG-1230 11-50 cassette and a 40t front chainring.
But now I'm torn between wheeltop and ltwoo. Ltwoo would be better for my smaller hands and more adjustable for sure, I like the changeable battery. Does the braking feels like Shimano with Ltwoo as well? I like that.
Wheeltop on the other hand surely supports up to 52t big cog. And there is Ltwoo wierd adapters, I have a Rockshow rudy fork, so I hope that a back adapter should be fine with the front caliper for 180 mm rotor, just like shimano (SMMAR160DDA)
What do you think?
I thought wheeltop were for small hands, and thought the ltwoo were better for larger hands?
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If waiting is an option, the new Ltwoo eGR version is supposed to have a larger max cassette capacity. Also, their new MTB derailleur looks interesting, especially since it seems it likely pairs with their road and gravel brifters.
Thanks, I think I will wait for now, 80 Desinger store answered me and said that the new eGR will be available in the end of the month.
I have one more question, Wheeltop has a specific interface with UDH hangers, does LTWOO have something similar?
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I have one more question, Wheeltop has a specific interface with UDH hangers, does LTWOO have something similar?
No, they're similar to Shimano using something similar to the shadow derailleur hanger design. I tried setting up a Shimano direct mount hanger on my UDH bike and the LTwoo RD wouldn't fit on a Shimano specific DM hanger. It's slightly different.
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No, they're similar to Shimano using something similar to the shadow derailleur hanger design. I tried setting up a Shimano direct mount hanger on my UDH bike and the LTwoo RD wouldn't fit on a Shimano specific DM hanger. It's slightly different.
So just have attach it to the hanger directly? Does that work fine?
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Did anyone get the issue where you can't shift to the larger gears while on battery?
My egr just squeak and turn itself off whenever i do that. I assume it needs more energy to shift to large cogs.
If i plug it into the wall then shifting is fine. Shifting to smaller cogs with battery is also fine.
I suspected low battery and the app just report the wrong battery level at 100% so i left it overnight but didn't work.
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Did anyone get the issue where you can't shift to the larger gears while on battery?
My egr just squeak and turn itself off whenever i do that. I assume it needs more energy to shift to large cogs.
If i plug it into the wall then shifting is fine. Shifting to smaller cogs with battery is also fine.
I suspected low battery and the app just report the wrong battery level at 100% so i left it overnight but didn't work.
I highly recommend getting a separate battery charger and charging the batteries before installing it into the battery holder. Also clean the connectors periodically as well. I find my eGR port needs to be cleaned more often than my eR9 setup.
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IF you want to go ahead with a wide-range rear cassette and/or "clutch" like on the eGR RD, I think that's probably the way to do it.
What you need to do it is the dual-port battery that comes with the road group. The eGR version only has a single port to power the RD. Getting the road set would include that and the shifters/brakes. And then you need the eGR or MTB RD. Supposedly LTWOO will support pairing across product lines. Confirmation on that seems thin though. If I get a chance at Sea Otter I'll try to remember to ask someone.
Can you provide more info on the MTB electric RD?
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My patience for this group set is wearing thin.
When bleeding the front brake, despite using the right tool, somehow that little grub screw in the lever got jammed in the threads and it’s stripped. Then the springs holding lever mechanism fell apart so I’m left with a bunch of springs and a jammed grub screw. Are there schematics for how these are put together so I can reassemble? Can I run the brake with no grub screw?
I’m wondering if biting the bullet on a new shifter might be easier.
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I highly recommend getting a separate battery charger and charging the batteries before installing it into the battery holder. Also clean the connectors periodically as well. I find my eGR port needs to be cleaned more often than my eR9 setup.
Interesting comment. Is there any difference between the ports on the eGR and eR9? AFAIK, the basic connector is the same. But perhaps positioning, or the surrounding or...
I ask because I'm still trying to figure out why my first one became problematic to charge (despite brushing, alcohol etc.) and the warranty V2 unit (based on the longer cage and no other details) works fine so far and might be different
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Just in case anyone needs to take apart the shifters on these because of stripped grub screws, I'll detail the process.
First, you'll need to remove the two hex bolts holding the lever on to the handlebars. With all of this, be super careful to not drop them and put them somewhere safe.
When you've removed the hex bolts (M4 & M2), you have two options - one, you 'push' up the fixed metal mechanism against the spring to expose the back of the grub screw. From there, if you're lucky, grab your 2mm Allen key and remove the bolt, and flip it so the non-stripped side faces outwards, and it's 'job done'. If however you're unlucky like I was, and strip both threads (these bolts must be made of playdoh), you'll need to drill it out. As my springs popped out, I did this without the spring mechanism in place.
It was pretty straightforward to drill out the grub screw and replace it with a 2mm grub screw from Amazon. Putting it back together is the tricky part.
This is the important bit as far as the springs and mechanism goes - thick spring gone on the outside, followed by the fixed metal lever. There's a plastic tube that runs through both of those, and a smaller plastic tube runs through the thinner spring. Put the thick spring in, followed by the fixed metal lever, then push the spring down and carefully slide in the plastic tube. Repeat then for the thin spring and smaller plastic tube. Then your lever should be reassembled.
Be careful, take your time.
I'm sorry I didn't take pictures of the process, but if anyone ever runs in to this issue where they strip the grub screw, get in touch and I'd be happy to help out. It's a pain in the arse if you stuff it up, but it's certainly fixable with a bit of patience and elbow grease. I'm glad I didn't buy a new shifter.
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I do have to say, the grub screw adjustment for the lever and brake feel is actually quite a clever design, and works really well.
I know it's been said in previous posts, but it's vitally important that the grub screw is backed off on the eGR (counter-clockwise) so that all the oil can fill the reservoir, then once the bleed is complete, you can dial in the grub screw so it's perfect for how you want to set your brakes up.
I just gave my pads a clean and sandpaper, gave the rotor a clean and scuff up with some sandpaper, bedded them in, and they're feeling better than they ever have.
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I do have to say, the grub screw adjustment for the lever and brake feel is actually quite a clever design, and works really well.
I know it's been said in previous posts, but it's vitally important that the grub screw is backed off on the eGR (counter-clockwise) so that all the oil can fill the reservoir, then once the bleed is complete, you can dial in the grub screw so it's perfect for how you want to set your brakes up.
I just gave my pads a clean and sandpaper, gave the rotor a clean and scuff up with some sandpaper, bedded them in, and they're feeling better than they ever have.
I'm a novice when it comes to hydraulic brakes. I did a piss poor job setting up my brakes when I first installed the eGR and after botching my first brake bleed I decided to leave them alone for over a year. I tried again to bleed them this past weekend and didn't improve them much (though, at least the process was a lot smoother and easier my second go-round). I didn't touch the "air" port on the handle. Should I have opened that port while bleeding to let more oil in the reservoir or something?
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Back in March I ordered eGR groupset from a shop called 318bike store, a name I haven't seen mentioned here. Anyway, nearly a month later and 25 days of it sitting in customs it was finally delivered thru UPS today.
I didn't realize from photos the box would be so big. Connected the bits and things look okay on the first look. I paid $370 after coupons. Not the cheapest but it's going on an old Chiner bike that deserves some love after excellent service for 3 years.
I'm disappointed with the battery holder. It's extremely cheap and weak. Comparatively other components are solid.
Now I have a question. Has anyone reused hydraulic hoses? I don't want to go through the hassle of routing hoses all again. I'm thinking of removing the current shifters and calipers, keep the hoses in place, and install eGR shifter + calipers. The hoses are not old. I'm just lazy to go thru terrible internal routing process.
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I'm a novice when it comes to hydraulic brakes. I did a piss poor job setting up my brakes when I first installed the eGR and after botching my first brake bleed I decided to leave them alone for over a year. I tried again to bleed them this past weekend and didn't improve them much (though, at least the process was a lot smoother and easier my second go-round). I didn't touch the "air" port on the handle. Should I have opened that port while bleeding to let more oil in the reservoir or something?
If you follow the video that Ltwoo posted on YouTube, that worked for me. Start by bleeding the brakes with the cup attached to the oil hole, then close that up, and still have 5ml of mineral oil in your syringe. Then close up the oil port, and open the air port and push in more oil from the syringe until no more air comes out. By that stage you shouldn’t have any more oil in the system. I found once I’d done that, it still felt a bit spongy, but when I dialed in the grub screw, the feel was firm and the pads locked to the rotors.
Also with disk brakes, it’s imperative you bed them in after this, otherwise they won’t work properly. Let me know how you go!
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Back in March I ordered eGR groupset from a shop called 318bike store, a name I haven't seen mentioned here. Anyway, nearly a month later and 25 days of it sitting in customs it was finally delivered thru UPS today.
I didn't realize from photos the box would be so big. Connected the bits and things look okay on the first look. I paid $370 after coupons. Not the cheapest but it's going on an old Chiner bike that deserves some love after excellent service for 3 years.
I'm disappointed with the battery holder. It's extremely cheap and weak. Comparatively other components are solid.
Now I have a question. Has anyone reused hydraulic hoses? I don't want to go through the hassle of routing hoses all again. I'm thinking of removing the current shifters and calipers, keep the hoses in place, and install eGR shifter + calipers. The hoses are not old. I'm just lazy to go thru terrible internal routing process.
I don’t see why this wouldn’t work, so long as you have enough length in them for new olives.
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If you follow the video that Ltwoo posted on YouTube, that worked for me. Start by bleeding the brakes with the cup attached to the oil hole, then close that up, and still have 5ml of mineral oil in your syringe. Then close up the oil port, and open the air port and push in more oil from the syringe until no more air comes out. By that stage you shouldn’t have any more oil in the system. Let me know how you go!
Ah, I didn't watch the video again, I only used the manual this time. The process you described makes a lot of sense. I'll have to try this next time and I'm sure that's what I'm missing. However, it will be at least a few weeks before I try this again.
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Last week I boxed and flew with my gravel bike equipped with eGR groupset. I think the air pressure messed with my hydraulic brakes when I transported my bike. My hydraulic pressure significantly dropped when I reassembled my bike and I didn't bring any spare fluid to top it off. I highly recommend bringing a small container of hydraulic fluid or make sure your hydraulic fluid pressure is adequate before flying! Though this wasn't an issue when flying with my Shimano equipped gravel frame, so it could just be an LTwoo thing.
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Noticing a weird issue with rear brake caliper of eGR. I used the 160mm adapter. The rotor is 160mm Shimano ice tech. The brake pads come into contact with the fins of the rotor because the pads are too low. What am I doing wrong?
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Added 2.5mm spacers and raised the height. No rubbing on the fins anymore! The spacers came with the fake EE rim brake calipers and ultimately served their purpose here lol
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Added 2.5mm spacers and raised the height. No rubbing on the fins anymore! The spacers came with the fake EE rim brake calipers and ultimately served their purpose here lol
I'm guessing it's an issue primarily with the ice-tech rotors? On my eGR setup I don't have any rubbing with regular rotors. Also be very careful with your LTwoo adapter plates. I've stripped the threads on 2 front adapter plates, which required replacements (purchased from 80 Design Store). I only tighten the screws until they are firm, so no need to over torque. With this tariff war, even small parts like this will be a hassle to replace. :(
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I've stripped the threads on 2 front adapter plates, which required replacements (purchased from 80 Design Store). I only tighten the screws until they are firm, so no need to over torque. With this tariff war, even small parts like this will be a hassle to replace. :(
It is definitely soft. I shaved off some material from 140mm adapter very easily. And I am already worried a little about the cable. It got stuck while passing it through the chainstay and I had to pull it with what felt like a lot of force. Its still working but small proprietary parts like these are going to be a major hassle. Why did they have to go with this strange mount for the brake calipers is also baffling to me. A stripped adapter shouldn't send one looking onto Aliexpress but here we are :|
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RE my up-thread comments about getting a longer-cage warranty replacement
After dropping by the LTWOO booth at Sea Otter, I got in touch with someone at LTWOO. He was able to confirm that there has been a running update to a longer cage that they expect works to 52t. I can confirm that it works correctly with a 10-50t cassette and would expect a 52t to be fine but haven't tested. He said there were no other changes to geometry, firmware, etc.
Since it is not on the website nor has a labeled version, I'm not sure how to ensure you would get this version though. When I got the warranty part, they checked that I could accept the longer cage since that was all they had in stock. But I can't speak to whether that is universal. If you have it in hand, the older version is approximately 82mm c-c on the bolts. The new one is ~90mm (Sorry, I only did it roughly while installing and looking at the pictures, I can't confirm more precisions than that)
However, it seems we might see a new eGR rear derailleur this summer with some of the features of the MTB series like the charge port going to USB-C
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RE my up-thread comments about getting a longer-cage warranty replacement
After dropping by the LTWOO booth at Sea Otter, I got in touch with someone at LTWOO.
Great news! Did they say if they will stock parts locally (in the USA) so that customers don't have to go through all the hassle of ordering from China now that de minimis is ending?
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Unfortunately, I didn't think to ask. However, given that the entire staff on the booth (as far as I saw) was from China, it does not seem they are staffing up here.
Unfortunately, at the moment, it's a bit of a moot point. At 124% tariff rates (today, who knows tomorrow), the pricing gets to be a problem in the USA. Anything arriving now to stock up would be subject to that rate. So local stock won't really help pricing. Sure, Wheeltop will see the same. But AFAIK, SRAM is made in Taiwan and Shimano is partly PRC but mostly other countries. So the discounted prices of the Big S products will not be far from the tariffed prices of the newcomers.
The direct import de minimis exemption is still in place but only until EOD May 2nd at this time.
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Great news! Did they say if they will stock parts locally (in the USA) so that customers don't have to go through all the hassle of ordering from China now that de minimis is ending?
I highly doubt it. My contact in China told me local cyclists have the exact same complaints about LTwoo as we do. They're equally as bad domestically when it comes to customer service, revisions on the fly and using customers as beta testers. On top of that, Shimano components are much cheaper with ample spare parts in China, so there's less incentive for them to try alternative groupsets.
On a side note, my contact told me Sensah has filed their electronic groupset patent, so there's going to be another player in the electronic groupset market. :)
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Unfortunately, I didn't think to ask. However, given that the entire staff on the booth (as far as I saw) was from China, it does not seem they are staffing up here.
Unfortunately, at the moment, it's a bit of a moot point. At 124% tariff rates (today, who knows tomorrow), the pricing gets to be a problem in the USA. Anything arriving now to stock up would be subject to that rate. So local stock won't really help pricing. Sure, Wheeltop will see the same. But AFAIK, SRAM is made in Taiwan and Shimano is partly PRC but mostly other countries. So the discounted prices of the Big S products will not be far from the tariffed prices of the newcomers.
The direct import de minimis exemption is still in place but only until EOD May 2nd at this time.
That's disappointing. Once de minimis exemption ends and whatever the tariffs kick in, I don't think anyone is ordering $300 electronic groupsets from Aliexpress. Back to eBay and FBMP hunting for groupsets I guess.
I highly doubt it. My contact in China told me local cyclists have the exact same complaints about LTwoo as we do. They're equally as bad domestically when it comes to customer service, revisions on the fly and using customers as beta testers. On top of that, Shimano components are much cheaper with ample spare parts in China, so there's less incentive for them to try alternative groupsets.
On a side note, my contact told me Sensah has filed their electronic groupset patent, so there's going to be another player in the electronic groupset market. :)
That Sensah has been coming for a looooong time! And now, I have a feeling it will be the same price as a used 105 Di2 give or take. Basically leaving it for people who like to tinker with beta/unreliable stuff e.g us on this forum.
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I ordered the replacement cage from the 80 store, held it up against my old cage, and it's a 'like-for-like' replacement (unfortunately).
I didn't ask for the new one, and after reading these posts, I wish I had!
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I ordered the replacement cage from the 80 store, held it up against my old cage, and it's a 'like-for-like' replacement (unfortunately).
I didn't ask for the new one, and after reading these posts, I wish I had!
Yeah, I'm all for continual improvement in products. Many enhancements or fixes are appropriate to roll out in process without any marketing or other active outreach. But it sure would be nice if there were a changelog and/or some sort of versioning documented on the part (even if obscure like Canon used to do with their lenses).
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I ordered the replacement cage from the 80 store, held it up against my old cage, and it's a 'like-for-like' replacement (unfortunately).
I didn't ask for the new one, and after reading these posts, I wish I had!
Would you mind showing a pic of what you received? I ordered a replacement cage and only received one piece.
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Would you mind showing a pic of what you received? I ordered a replacement cage and only received one piece.
Hi Amacal,
My beautiful, but sometimes somewhat annoying fiancé did a big 'clean of the garage' so I need to check with her where she might have put them, but it's two pieces (in two ziplock bags).
One piece is the long side of the cage, the other is the short side of the cage. (identical to what you and I both damaged). I'll post a pic when I track them down.
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Hi Amacal,
My beautiful, but sometimes somewhat annoying fiancé did a big 'clean of the garage' so I need to check with her where she might have put them, but it's two pieces (in two ziplock bags).
One piece is the long side of the cage, the other is the short side of the cage. (identical to what you and I both damaged). I'll post a pic when I track them down.
I would appreciate it, if for no other reason than to show the picture to 80s Designer Store next time I try to order one so I can receive BOTH pieces. I received only the "long" side of the cage, which is not terribly useful on its own. I guess it's better than no replacement cage pieces.
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I am keen to know if anyone has this setup, ifworks well and if you need to change the pulley wheels to suit the flattop chain?
I can confirm that it shifts very well and the jockey wheels play well with an axs flattop chain. Tested with a 10-36 12 speed Rival cassette, 12 speed Rival flattop chain, and a Force 1 46t crankset.
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I have been riding my eGR bike regularly past few weeks. One thing that stands out is how good the brakes are.
My other bikes are various Shimano hydros and comparatively these feel much better as far as lever feel and modulation goes. May be I have set up Shimano hydros incorrectly or LTWoo is really better I will never know but this is my observation. The brake pads took more than usual time for bed-in but once they did, performance is fantastic.
Secondly, the batteries that came in the groupset were bad. From 100% charge it went down to 67% in just one ride of approximately 30 miles. Not sure if those are faulty. Thankfully I had ordered a set of Vapcell F12 (https://liionwholesale.com/products/vapcell-f12-14500-3a-flat-top-1250mah-battery-genuine?variant=40620938330181) before the groupset so I replaced brand new batteries with Vapcell and after clocking in about 120 miles, the battery % shows at 91 - quite a drastic difference. I am guessing the battery life to get better after a few charge cycles.
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I would appreciate it, if for no other reason than to show the picture to 80s Designer Store next time I try to order one so I can receive BOTH pieces. I received only the "long" side of the cage, which is not terribly useful on its own. I guess it's better than no replacement cage pieces.
Sorry this took so long, here they are:
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Sorry this took so long, here they are:
Wow, thanks for coming through! I'm going to have to download this and save it for when I order another cage. I'll just share this picture and tell them I need "these parts" and maybe ask for the newer ones (hopefully that won't get lost in translation).
I tried doing this by taking a picture of my RD and circling the cage to ask for the parts, but for some reason they misunderstood and only sent me 1 side of the cage. Oh well, I guess it was better than no support at all.
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Wow, thanks for coming through! I'm going to have to download this and save it for when I order another cage. I'll just share this picture and tell them I need "these parts" and maybe ask for the newer ones (hopefully that won't get lost in translation).
I tried doing this by taking a picture of my RD and circling the cage to ask for the parts, but for some reason they misunderstood and only sent me 1 side of the cage. Oh well, I guess it was better than no support at all.
I'd see if you can get the bigger cage - changing this is a real pain in the arse, just like everything L-Twoo
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Can anyone help with eGR activation? Mine came without charging cable, the seller resent the cable, but I'll have to wait for a month until I'll get it. I fully charged my accums, connected them to rear derailleur and got no reaction from the derailleur, no green blinks, nothing. In YT video they say I need the charging cable to activate for the first time. Can anyone measure voltage and polarization of original charger output, so I could try to emulate charging with mine universal tunable charger?
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Can anyone help with eGR activation? Mine came without charging cable, the seller resent the cable, but I'll have to wait for a month until I'll get it. I fully charged my accums, connected them to rear derailleur and got no reaction from the derailleur, no green blinks, nothing. In YT video they say I need the charging cable to activate for the first time. Can anyone measure voltage and polarization of original charger output, so I could try to emulate charging with mine universal tunable charger?
I don't have a voltage tool to check output. Can you try activating by unplugging and plugging the battery cable? In the meantime you can charge batteries in a universal battery charger.
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I don't have a voltage tool to check output. Can you try activating by unplugging and plugging the battery cable? In the meantime you can charge batteries in a universal battery charger.
Already did this 10000 times. How was your activation process? Did you used charging cable as it's described on Ltwoo official YT channel?
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Warnings first: Do with this under your own judgment only. No warranties given or implied.
That said, I just pulled my cable out, plugged it in to USB port and measure 9V with the pin positive.
That is, of course, unloaded and without any potential negotiations which makes it a little surprising to me. I thought 'dumb' USB power was supposed to be 5V until negotiated otherwise. The green light at the USB A end was illuminated and perhaps that circuitry is doing the negotiation with the brick and just delivering dumb 9V down the wire.
Good luck
PS: I think you already suggested you've done this, but just in case: You can, of course, charge the battery cells externally instead of through the RD cable. But that won't necessarily help a startup sequence (which I didn't recall being there)
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That said, I just pulled my cable out, plugged it in to USB port and measure 9V with the pin positive.
That is, of course, unloaded and without any potential negotiations which makes it a little surprising to me. I thought 'dumb' USB power was supposed to be 5V until negotiated otherwise. The green light at the USB A end was illuminated and perhaps that circuitry is doing the negotiation with the brick and just delivering dumb 9V down the wire.
PS: I think you already suggested you've done this, but just in case: You can, of course, charge the battery cells externally instead of through the RD cable. But that won't necessarily help a startup sequence (which I didn't recall being there)
Thank you will give a try. I did charged the batteries to 100% ofc, but it doesn't help. There is no positive contact from the battery to the cable and there is some kind of controller in the battery which I cannot identify.
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So with universal charger for my car's accumulator which is capable to set output voltage as low as 7V and output current as low as 1A I touched contacts on my rear derailleur for 1 second and then...
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So with universal charger for my car's accumulator which is capable to set output voltage as low as 7V and output current as low as 1A I touched contacts on my rear derailleur for 1 second and then...
... yeah? Did the magic smoke escape? You know all electronics run on magic smoke. If the magic smoke ever escapes, the electronics stop working.
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... yeah? Did the magic smoke escape? You know all electronics run on magic smoke. If the magic smoke ever escapes, the electronics stop working.
It also might be the slippery pipes. The magic smoke leaks through the slippery pipes very easily.
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Has anyone else experienced a broken swing arm on the rear derailleur, as highlighted in the Trace Velo video?
I've heard of one other failure of the exact same nature and am curious how widespread this issue might be. I'm curious there's still old inventory of that first-generation component in circulation?
I'm currently building a cx bike with EGR and contemplating the failure during a race could be not good.
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I won't discount your concerns completely. That is a concerning video. But do consider the timing of that video. He was working with pre-release parts and it's now been a year and a half (if memory serves) of evolving product. LTWOO appears to do running changes without mentioning or documenting (publicly).
So, it is worth considering such things but calibrate any answers you get to timing.
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I just sent a message to 80 Design Store if the long cage and spare hanger is available for the EGR. I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask! ;D
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I just sent a message to 80 Design Store if the long cage and spare hanger is available for the EGR. I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask! ;D
80 Design Store said they have it in stock. So I put an order on both items. I’ll let you know when they arrive. :)
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Secondly, the batteries that came in the groupset were bad. From 100% charge it went down to 67% in just one ride of approximately 30 miles. Not sure if those are faulty. Thankfully I had ordered a set of Vapcell F12 (https://liionwholesale.com/products/vapcell-f12-14500-3a-flat-top-1250mah-battery-genuine?variant=40620938330181) before the groupset so I replaced brand new batteries with Vapcell and after clocking in about 120 miles, the battery % shows at 91 - quite a drastic difference. I am guessing the battery life to get better after a few charge cycles.
That link is for flat top batteries. My eGR came with button tops. Did I get sent wrong batteries?
Not a battery expert. Is it ok if the mAh and voltages aren't exactly the same?
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- Voltage MUST be right. The actual voltage will vary by SoC (State of Charge). But the nominal voltage printed on the battery/spec sheet should match the requirement
- mAh is capacity. If it has more or less than designed, it should not cause a functional problem. So it's ok. However, it might contribute to an inaccurate SoC reading. The electronics are expecting a certain capacity and a corresponding curve of voltage and a higher or lower capacity battery will alter that. The software could adapt to it but I don't now if it will
I don't recall if button or flat top are the spec but get the right one. The wrong ones won't fit right in the carrier and cause you issues.
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That link is for flat top batteries. My eGR came with button tops. Did I get sent wrong batteries?
Not a battery expert. Is it ok if the mAh and voltages aren't exactly the same?
I'm just using these button top 14500 800mah batteries from US EBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698)
Sometimes the full charge status is a bit wonky, but they've never failed me on the road once charged.
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I'm just using these button top 14500 800mah batteries from US EBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698)
Sometimes the full charge status is a bit wonky, but they've never failed me on the road once charged.
Thanks! Do you get a decent ride time before needing recharge? Or just recharge regularly to play it safe?
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Thanks! Do you get a decent ride time before needing recharge? Or just recharge regularly to play it safe?
I've done weekend camping trips with no charging and they've held up. I don't think there's any need to go over 800mah with the batteries. Also I just recharge after a ride, since I have 3 LTwoo electronic equipped bikes. Sometimes a bike goes for a few days or a week of no riding since I put my bikes on rotation. Better safe than sorry!
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I've been seeing 200-300miles (3-500km) easy range on a charge. Probably more. But that's extrapolating on reported status when recharging which I do before it reports empty because I don't trust the reporting.
For comparison my SRAM AXS equipped bike, clearly reports 'fine' until it gives a warning (on my head unit but lights change too) as it gets low. Charge when you get home and it's all good. But the LTWOO and Garmin 1040 and Karoo 2 don't get the right information. It reports 'critical status' nearly every ride regardless of real status. This must have something to do with the ANT protocol messages between the derailleur and Garmin. Not sure which end is the issue. The LTWOO app gives a more progressive report. But it does not seem fully accurate either. But it's good enough if you don't try to run it dry. My assumption is that the issue is because I don't have quite the same batteries as they sell so the calibration is faulty.
I also have had it just run down to dead as a surprise even though on last check it was 'fine'. I make a habit of charging long before it demands it (but still weeks) and before any important event.
Net net, the life is quite fine but the visibility leaves something to be desired
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I have some high quality cells that are rated for 800mAh and I get phenomenal longevity out of them, imo. At least 200-300 miles and weeks and weeks of standby time. Enough that I rather foolishly forget to check and charge frequently, which is a bad habit.
The Ltwoo app tracks battery capacity very well, but it seems most gps head units report low battery incorrectly because they're expecting Shimano battery status numbers. (You'll get a Garmin gps screaming at you about "cricital battery" but it's usually not really low at all)
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I'd see if you can get the bigger cage - changing this is a real pain in the arse, just like everything L-Twoo
Presumably you had the shorter cage before, right? Were you using it with a big cassette?
I'm curious how much shifting may have improved for you now that you've swapped to the longer arms. With a large 12sp cassette (50t) the shifting performance is pretty poor. It wasn't terriblely bad when I've been shifting around the middle of the cassette, but the last couple of weeks I threw road tires on my bike and have been sticking mostly to the 11, 13, 15t cogs and I'm fed up with the sluggish shifting.
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Presumably you had the shorter cage before, right? Were you using it with a big cassette?
I'm curious how much shifting may have improved for you now that you've swapped to the longer arms. With a large 12sp cassette (50t) the shifting performance is pretty poor. It wasn't terriblely bad when I've been shifting around the middle of the cassette, but the last couple of weeks I threw road tires on my bike and have been sticking mostly to the 11, 13, 15t cogs and I'm fed up with the sluggish shifting.
FWIW, I had my RD replaced under warranty and the replacement came with the longer cage. My perception was a clear and definitive improvement, particularly on the large (low) cog. I’m running a Garbaruk 10-50. But this is one unscientific observation.
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I've built up my EGR, but I'm running into an issue. Out of the box, it's reading the wrong gear. When I try to calibrate, the process times out — the RD disconnects and fails to calibrate to the correct gear (its on 6th on an 11-speed setup, but reads 4 in the app).
I've tried this on both Android and iOS.
The RD connects and shifts via the app, but during calibration it blinks a green light for an extended period before disconnecting.
Has anyone else run into this issue?
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I've built up my EGR, but I'm running into an issue. Out of the box, it's reading the wrong gear. When I try to calibrate, the process times out — the RD disconnects and fails to calibrate to the correct gear (its on 6th on an 11-speed setup, but reads 4 in the app).
I've tried this on both Android and iOS.
The RD connects and shifts via the app, but during calibration it blinks a green light for an extended period before disconnecting.
Has anyone else run into this issue?
Hard reset the RD by holding the button down for like 10-15 seconds. Also try resetting the default settings in the app to see if that will help. You might also have to individually calibrate each gear. Good luck!
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For those runnning 10/11-50t cassettes, what chainring size are you running? I'm running a 36t upfront on an 11 speed 9-50t cassette. Shifting seems decent, but B screw is almost all the way in. I also have an LTwoo mechanical GR9 RD bike for comparison and that derailleur can handle 50t with ease and ample of B-screw length. From the looks of it 50t is definitely max size for the eGR.
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For those runnning 10/11-50t cassettes, what chainring size are you running? I'm running a 36t upfront on an 11 speed 9-50t cassette. Shifting seems decent, but B screw is almost all the way in. I also have an LTwoo mechanical GR9 RD bike for comparison and that derailleur can handle 50t with ease and ample of B-screw length. From the looks of it 50t is definitely max size for the eGR.
Actually, 50t is beyond the official spec for the eGR (46t). That said if run both 10 and 11 to 50t cassettes with good results. There is a longer cage version in the world but LTWOO doesn't seem to document it. Upthread I talk about getting one on warranty that seems happier with the 50t end. With the new one, I didn't need as much B screw. But it did work before
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Actually, 50t is beyond the official spec for the eGR (46t). That said if run both 10 and 11 to 50t cassettes with good results. There is a longer cage version in the world but LTWOO doesn't seem to document it. Upthread I talk about getting one on warranty that seems happier with the 50t end. With the new one, I didn't need as much B screw. But it did work before
I meant to say 50t is as far as it'll go knowing 46t is the in-spec max. ;D
I like electronic shifting, but honestly the mechanical LTwoo GR9 RD especially paired with Shimano shifters works great. Part of me now wishes I just stuck with mechanical on my newer gravel build.
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Quick feedback. Did some gravel dirt and the 9-50t cassette worked fine, except for the 42t cog (2nd gear/2nd biggest cog). That gear wouldn't engage when shifting. When I got home it needed gear fine tuning due to the B tension difference from my previous 9-46t cassette. I believe that particular cassette cog is the one that will need adjusting if anyones goes from an xx-46t cassette to a xx-50t setup. All the other settings stayed the same. Overall I'm happy with the extra bit of climbing help with the bigger cassette!
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Interesting discussion regarding the use of 50+ tooth cassettes with the eGR.
Just yesterday I shuffled some wheels and installed a one with a Shimano microspline Casette 10-51 which came with my girlfriends new gravel bike.
Since I only have HG cassettes flying around, I gave it a try and installed the wheel as is. After some readjusting of the end stops and the B-Screw the shifting works quite well and even the 51 cog works.
My egr is from March 2024 so not sure if this already has the long derailleur cage or not.
Will try some outdoor ride to confirm there is no issue using this 10-51 cassette in the coming weeks and report back.
BR Chris
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Interesting discussion regarding the use of 50+ tooth cassettes with the eGR.
Just yesterday I shuffled some wheels and installed a one with a Shimano microspline Casette 10-51 which came with my girlfriends new gravel bike.
Since I only have HG cassettes flying around, I gave it a try and installed the wheel as is. After some readjusting of the end stops and the B-Screw the shifting works quite well and even the 51 cog works.
My egr is from March 2024 so not sure if this already has the long derailleur cage or not.
Will try some outdoor ride to confirm there is no issue using this 10-51 cassette in the coming weeks and report back.
BR Chris
I bought mine end of Nov. 2024 and it came with the shorter cage. I'm presuming your B-screw is all the way in?
I need to re-test my setup with adjusted gear fine tuning. I was also running a newly waxed chain, so that might have accounted for me not catching the gear adjustment prior to riding. I also have the mechanical GR9 bike to compare as a base comparison. That RD has far more leeway for bigger cassettes and can probably do a 52t cog no problem.
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Interesting discussion regarding the use of 50+ tooth cassettes with the eGR.
Just yesterday I shuffled some wheels and installed a one with a Shimano microspline Casette 10-51 which came with my girlfriends new gravel bike.
Since I only have HG cassettes flying around, I gave it a try and installed the wheel as is. After some readjusting of the end stops and the B-Screw the shifting works quite well and even the 51 cog works.
My egr is from March 2024 so not sure if this already has the long derailleur cage or not.
Will try some outdoor ride to confirm there is no issue using this 10-51 cassette in the coming weeks and report back.
BR Chris
As far as I have been able to figure out, the longer cage made an appearance in the first months of 2025. No documentation to be found. Confirmation from LTWOO that it exists when I asked in April. Mine arrived in March. Many reports of short cage arriving since.
So unclear if it is a running change in the base eGR configuration (I question that because the web still says 46t here in June) or if it is an option that is undocumented (strange given the lack of markings/part numbers).
I think it is a running change but they made no effort to clear inventory in the channel and since they don't sell direct to consumer, aren't worried about the website. Odd though.
Search upthread for the dimensions of the two if you want to see the measurements to try to ask a seller.
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I'm okay with the performance using the original stock cage. I think it works fine with at least a 36t or smaller chainring. Since the majority of my gravel is uphill dirt climbing, running a larger chainring does me no favors. Since I can run a 9/10t cog, that allows enough speed for me when on the flats (not racing). Though performance might differ if I need to run a larger chainring setup and chain, hence the need for a longer cage.
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I'm okay with the performance using the original stock cage. I think it works fine with at least a 36t or smaller chainring. Since the majority of my gravel is uphill dirt climbing, running a larger chainring does me no favors. Since I can run a 9/10t cog, that allows enough speed for me when on the flats (not racing). Though performance might differ if I need to run a larger chainring setup and chain, hence the need for a longer cage.
Yeah, I'm using HG so I'm limited to 11t as smallest cog, so I keep a 38t front chainring. I would be fine with a 46t or 48t max cassette, but there are no such cassettes I could find for 12sp. So, 50t is what I have and am pleased with the quality, price, and lightness of the cassettes I have, but the less-than-optimal shifting is a bit annoying at times (especially since I used to run my eGR with a smaller 10sp cassette so I know how good it can be).
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Yeah, I'm using XT so I'm limited to 11t as smallest cog, so I keep a 38t front chainring. I would be fine with a 46t or 48t max cassette, but there are no such cassettes I could find for 12sp.
Goldix 12-speed 11-46
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008627720761.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008627720761.html)
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Too many alloy cogs on that one, I prefer as few alloy big cogs as possible. I prefer this ZTTO HG cassette. I'm currently using the XD 9-50t 11 speed version and it's been good so far. Only problem is TACO tariff pricing sucks balls for US customers! Shop around and definitely use coupons if possible.
ZTTO 11-46/50 12 speed:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804675083210.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804675083210.html)
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I bought mine end of Nov. 2024 and it came with the shorter cage. I'm presuming your B-screw is all the way in?
I need to re-test my setup with adjusted gear fine tuning. I was also running a newly waxed chain, so that might have accounted for me not catching the gear adjustment prior to riding. I also have the mechanical GR9 bike to compare as a base comparison. That RD has far more leeway for bigger cassettes and can probably do a 52t cog no problem.
So must be the short cage given the date I bought the eGR set.
The B-screw is not completely maxed out yet but close, the distance between the 51T cog and the cage cog looks good and the chain clears well when shifting.
I am using an original Shimano chain that I rund with "Effetto Mariposa" fluid wax.
BR
Chris
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Has anyone yet tried going 2x on the eGR? I was able to get my mechanical LTwoo GR9 RD to shift well with a 10-42t 11 speed cassette, 46-30t chainring, Ultegra R8000 FD and SRAM GX 12 speed chain. Functionality should be similar with an eGR using an ER9/X FD. I just need to source another battery pack with 2 battery connectors and I have a spare ER9 FD I can use with the eGR set. The gear range should be massive!
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Has anyone yet tried going 2x on the eGR? I was able to get my mechanical LTwoo GR9 RD to shift well with a 10-42t 11 speed cassette, 46-30t chainring, Ultegra R8000 FD and SRAM GX 12 speed chain. Functionality should be similar with an eGR using an ER9/X FD. I just need to source another battery pack with 2 battery connectors and I have a spare ER9 FD I can use with the eGR set. The gear range should be massive!
I believe someone experimented a while back to confirm the parts communicated, but I don't believe I've seen any evidence of anyone actually "running" this setup and reporting back on how they work together or even what parts they used.
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Has anyone yet tried going 2x on the eGR? I was able to get my mechanical LTwoo GR9 RD to shift well with a 10-42t 11 speed cassette, 46-30t chainring, Ultegra R8000 FD and SRAM GX 12 speed chain. Functionality should be similar with an eGR using an ER9/X FD. I just need to source another battery pack with 2 battery connectors and I have a spare ER9 FD I can use with the eGR set. The gear range should be massive!
This worrks if you start with erx, but it’s a new battery, front mech and brifter (for me) to get functionality so I just got individual erx brifters, battery and mech and they all work great with egr rear mech (11-46 with 46/30 bikinigreen on a p505 power meter.
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This worrks if you start with erx, but it’s a new battery, front mech and brifter (for me) to get functionality so I just got individual erx brifters, battery and mech and they all work great with egr rear mech (11-46 with 46/30 bikinigreen on a p505 power meter.
46-30t with an 11-46t cassette? Are you bike touring or climbing up vertical walls? ;D
I actually have a spare ERX FD, I just need to get a 2 port ER9/X battery. So I could, pull off this conversion.
Do you have a picture of your setup?
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This worrks if you start with erx, but it’s a new battery, front mech and brifter (for me) to get functionality so I just got individual erx brifters, battery and mech and they all work great with egr rear mech (11-46 with 46/30 bikinigreen on a p505 power meter.
Thank you for trying this. Looks like my chinese groupset 50-34 11-42 dream isn't dead
How do you go about optimizing purchases for this setup? When I looked into it the best path was seemingly to buy a whole eRX groupset and then an eGR RD for ~250 from the repair accessories listing. Which adds up to pretty much ultegra prices
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Thank you for trying this. Looks like my chinese groupset 50-34 11-42 dream isn't dead
How do you go about optimizing purchases for this setup? When I looked into it the best path was seemingly to buy a whole eRX groupset and then an eGR RD for ~250 from the repair accessories listing. Which adds up to pretty much ultegra prices
LTwoo eGR prices went up. When it first came out, it was cheaper than ER9. I heard gravel is very niche in China, so low domestic sales probably means less inventory and higher prices. From what I've seen, eR9 prices for US buyers is a bit cheaper, so it might easier to get that and source an eGR RD separately.
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Hi,
I have a couple minor issues with my eGR group set but for this post just going to focus on the brake calipers. I've followed the manual for bleeding, and also some videos on YouTube. I'm familiar with hydraulic disc brakes, so I'm comfortable with the idea and processes, but for the life of me I cannot keep my rear caliper from slowly closing in on the rotor. I reset the pistons and do a quick bleed check, but every couple weeks I'll head to the garage and my rear brake lever is locked solid and the pads are on the rotor.
Any ideas? I'm nearing the point of buying different calipers.
Thanks
Andrew in Newfoundland, Canada
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Hi,
I have a couple minor issues with my eGR group set but for this post just going to focus on the brake calipers. I've followed the manual for bleeding, and also some videos on YouTube. I'm familiar with hydraulic disc brakes, so I'm comfortable with the idea and processes, but for the life of me I cannot keep my rear caliper from slowly closing in on the rotor. I reset the pistons and do a quick bleed check, but every couple weeks I'll head to the garage and my rear brake lever is locked solid and the pads are on the rotor.
Any ideas? I'm nearing the point of buying different calipers.
Thanks
Andrew in Newfoundland, Canada
thermal expansion? how hot does your garage get?
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Hi,
I have a couple minor issues with my eGR group set but for this post just going to focus on the brake calipers. I've followed the manual for bleeding, and also some videos on YouTube. I'm familiar with hydraulic disc brakes, so I'm comfortable with the idea and processes, but for the life of me I cannot keep my rear caliper from slowly closing in on the rotor. I reset the pistons and do a quick bleed check, but every couple weeks I'll head to the garage and my rear brake lever is locked solid and the pads are on the rotor.
Any ideas? I'm nearing the point of buying different calipers.
Thanks
Andrew in Newfoundland, Canada
One short ride on my new bike with eGR and my front caliper is doing the same. Caliper looks aligned well enough. No light comes through when I try to shine a light behind it now to check for clearance. Back brake is fine.
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Latest generation LTwoo calipers should have good brake pull. First gen calipers needed a few pumps on the pistons (minus the brake pads) to get them closer to the disc rotor in order to tighten up brake feel. I would check that the barb nut is firmly screwed in-place. Even if oil isn't leaking, air could potentially be seeping into the brake line. Once that's done, I'd top off mineral oil by placing a funnel on the bleed port on the shifters filled with a few milliliters of mineral oil. Pump some fluid into the system while letting out a few air bubbles. That should tighten things up.
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LTwoo eGR prices went up. When it first came out, it was cheaper than ER9. I heard gravel is very niche in China, so low domestic sales probably means less inventory and higher prices. From what I've seen, eR9 prices for US buyers is a bit cheaper, so it might easier to get that and source an eGR RD separately.
Prices went up massivly to around 850 USD. Even 200 USD more expensive than Wheeltop, but not wireless! What is going on? ::)
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Prices went up massivly to around 850 USD. Even 200 USD more expensive than Wheeltop, but not wireless! What is going on? ::)
My bet is that LTwoo will probably consolidate MTB and gravel 1x to make things more streamlined with the ETT groupset. From a small manufacturer POV, that would make the most sense. If that happens, it should help lower costs. The only downside I see, is that it might not be possible to run an FD with the ETT RD.
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Hello everyone, unfortunately my EGR stopped working and died suddenly. I reported the problem to the 80 Designer Store where I purchased the equipment. Unfortunately, they completely ignored me, didn't respond to my requests, and ultimately, the matter was referred to AliExpress support. Ultimately, I was forced to disassemble the entire assembly and return it, and AliExpress refunded me the amount I paid. Unfortunately, the tax I paid hasn't been refunded.
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thermal expansion? how hot does your garage get?
Shed/garage, Newfoundland, Canada, probably mid 20's inside during the summer at most. It's well insulated. I am thinking it has to do with the air screw. If I back off the small hex a quarter turn or so in the brake lever it helps for a few weeks and then happens again. I am going to do a fresh bleed soon and start over.
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Hello everyone, unfortunately my EGR stopped working and died suddenly. I reported the problem to the 80 Designer Store where I purchased the equipment. Unfortunately, they completely ignored me, didn't respond to my requests, and ultimately, the matter was referred to AliExpress support. Ultimately, I was forced to disassemble the entire assembly and return it, and AliExpress refunded me the amount I paid. Unfortunately, the tax I paid hasn't been refunded.
I've been trying to see if they'll sell me replacement derailleur cage arms for my eGR using the new, longer arms designed for the v2. They initially told me they didn't have access to v2 or v2 parts since they weren't stocked yet and told me to check back when they were in stock. I checked back in now that they're selling them, and they're telling me they just can't sell them to me. So... I don't know, maybe the days of great post-sale service from 80 Designer Store are over?
46-30t with an 11-46t cassette? Are you bike touring or climbing up vertical walls? ;D
I don't know how I missed this comment, lol. But, if I'm being honest, that sounds like a GREAT combo for me!
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I've been trying to see if they'll sell me replacement derailleur cage arms for my eGR using the new, longer arms designed for the v2. They initially told me they didn't have access to v2 or v2 parts since they weren't stocked yet and told me to check back when they were in stock. I checked back in now that they're selling them, and they're telling me they just can't sell them to me. So... I don't know, maybe the days of great post-sale service from 80 Designer Store are over?
I don't know how I missed this comment, lol. But, if I'm being honest, that sounds like a GREAT combo for me!
Yeah 80 Design Store seems to have gone downhill. What's up with the EGR? Prices are way higher than the current V3 ER9/ERX on AliEx. Also the price for the ERX isn't even worth it on Ali. Better off buying from Panda Podium for $649 USD and get legit customer support. At least for US customers, they're not charging sales tax (yet).
BTW - I just received a dual port battery holder for my EGR and I have a spare ERX FD I purchased prior to the orange turd tariffs. I'm thinking of trying out the 2x setup!
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What's up with the EGR? Prices are way higher than the current V3 ER9/ERX on AliEx. Also the price for the ERX isn't even worth it on Ali. Better off buying from Panda Podium for $649 USD and get legit customer support. At least for US customers, they're not charging sales tax (yet).
I read a theory elsewhere that both LTWOO and Wheeltop may be de-emphasizing out-of-China sales right now (for 'reasons') and that in-China gravel sales aren't that big (as a share). The combination leaves them less aggressive about market penetration through the overseas sellers like Aliexpress for the electronic and eGR in particular.
Related point is that Wheeltop didn't stay at that competitive intro price very long after launch of the GeX. US list is allegedly $799 but they have one sale or another most of the time to bring it to ~$530. LTWOO probably sees no point right now in pushing share at a lower price.
I'm also curious what the play will be from LTWOO now that Wheeltop is about to roll out the new "Rotor" (they bought Rotor a few months ago) full groupset.
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oh I miss the rotor news! I saw the news that they were bringing a new electronic drivetrain out soon.
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I read a theory elsewhere that both LTWOO and Wheeltop may be de-emphasizing out-of-China sales right now (for 'reasons') and that in-China gravel sales aren't that big (as a share). The combination leaves them less aggressive about market penetration through the overseas sellers like Aliexpress for the electronic and eGR in particular.
Related point is that Wheeltop didn't stay at that competitive intro price very long after launch of the GeX. US list is allegedly $799 but they have one sale or another most of the time to bring it to ~$530. LTWOO probably sees no point right now in pushing share at a lower price.
I'm also curious what the play will be from LTWOO now that Wheeltop is about to roll out the new "Rotor" (they bought Rotor a few months ago) full groupset.
What I'm hearing from cyclists in China it's either road bikes or mountain bikes. There doesn't seem to be much appeal for gravel over there. In fact I constantly get asked why gravel is so popular in the US. LTwoo must be selling and churning out more ER9/X groupsets and they'll probably sell a bunch of ER7 groupsets as an OEM option for entry level bikes. I now have to be a bit more careful with my EGR RD since it's not as easy or cheap to replace.
FYI, I attached a photo of how the upcoming ROTOR groupset. Looks like a rebranded Wheeltop groupset, but will probably have more appeal in western markets with the ROTOR name association.
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My derailleur had a problem and 80 designer store is sending me a new one. But this one doesn't have a charging port ! Where is it ? erX have the usb C on the front derailleur no ?
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Is that an EGR or ER9/X rear derailleur? EGR hasn't received any version updates, but for ver. 3 ER9/X, you'll need the USB type-C port on the FD to charge the groupset. Worse case scenario is to charge your 14500 batteries separately after a few hundred kilometers/miles.
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Is that an EGR or ER9/X rear derailleur? EGR hasn't received any version updates, but for ver. 3 ER9/X, you'll need the USB type-C port on the FD to charge the groupset. Worse case scenario is to charge your 14500 batteries separately after a few hundred kilometers/miles.
That's an egr,
I currently have the first version of egr and the first version of er9
So my question is... how to charge it.
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That's an egr,
I currently have the first version of egr and the first version of er9
So my question is... how to charge it.
Really? Better contact 80 Design Store and ask them. Plus inform us what you find out. This is definitely a new change to the groupset. It might account why it's been harder to find EGR groupset deals due to hardware revision changes.
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Really? Better contact 80 Design Store and ask them. Plus inform us what you find out. This is definitely a new change to the groupset. It might account why it's been harder to find EGR groupset deals due to hardware revision changes.
Yes it is, and I don't see an usb C port. I already contacted 80designer store a bit panicked, it's already sent
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So I asked the 17/08 about how to charge it.
Surprise : you have to use a new cable that plugs directly on the battery cable that goes out of your frame.
Had to pay again for shipping.
Would have been nice to send it directly with the derailleur IMO.
I was really hoping for a usb C.
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So I asked the 17/08 about how to charge it.
Surprise : you have to use a new cable that plugs directly on the battery cable that goes out of your frame.
Had to pay again for shipping.
Would have been nice to send it directly with the derailleur IMO.
I was really hoping for a usb C.
So now you have to unplug the RD battery cable and attach it to the USB charging cable? That's even worst than the magnetic charging option. I just clean my eGR RD charging port with a swab and alcohol. Darn, now I wish I bought a spare eGR groupset when they were $300 USD.
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So I asked the 17/08 about how to charge it.
Surprise : you have to use a new cable that plugs directly on the battery cable that goes out of your frame.
Had to pay again for shipping.
Would have been nice to send it directly with the derailleur IMO.
I was really hoping for a usb C.
1) Thanks for the info. This is DEFINITELY good to know, hopefully before anyone buys.
2) W T F
3) What The Fudge
4) What would it have hurt to keep the existing magnetic charger? Presumably you could still unplug the battery cable and use the new-style charge if you found the magnetic one problematic.
5) I can't help but think of all the people who were uneasy about water-ingress and resorted to, essentially, caulking their battery plug to seal it. I never felt the need to do this, but all of that plugging/un-plugging is going to take its toll on the port and might actually lead to MORE water ingres problems (in addition to bent pins, cracked plugs, fatigued wire joints, etc.). This is a HUGE downgrade in quality.
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1) Thanks for the info. This is DEFINITELY good to know, hopefully before anyone buys.
2) W T F
3) What The Fudge
4) What would it have hurt to keep the existing magnetic charger? Presumably you could still unplug the battery cable and use the new-style charge if you found the magnetic one problematic.
5) I can't help but think of all the people who were uneasy about water-ingress and resorted to, essentially, caulking their battery plug to seal it. I never felt the need to do this, but all of that plugging/un-plugging is going to take its toll on the port and might actually lead to MORE water ingres problems (in addition to bent pins, cracked plugs, fatigued wire joints, etc.). This is a HUGE downgrade in quality.
I already bent those fragile pins on one of my ER9 bikes. I had to use tweezers to bent them back in-place. Having to remove the cable to charge the battery is backwards. I was totally fine with the magnetic charging port.
I think there were too many crybabies who didn't use their brain matter to think of actually cleaning the port surfaces. ::)
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Got notified of a new firmware update when I connected to my RD today. Anyone know what it does? Very happy about how the groupset is working these days.
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Got notified of a new firmware update when I connected to my RD today. Anyone know what it does? Very happy about how the groupset is working these days.
Oooh... Interesting. I have never, not even once, had a firmware update show. I'm super curious.
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Oooh... Interesting. I have never, not even once, had a firmware update show. I'm super curious.
Tried both their website and Google but nothing. Think I'll just pass for now.
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Software update seems to be related only with the new aerobar switches.
Can we mass attack the support to add controlling features to the left shifter? It's so useless for now.
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AliEx offered me an exclusive price on LTwoo eGR at pre US tariff prices so I ended up ordering a second groupset (I already own one). I also just received a Wheeltop GeX groupset to compare the two setups. I have a feeling EGR might get phased out for ETT and I like the idea of having replaceable 14500 batteries. I even ordered a few spare replacement batteries for the GeX. A seller on AliEx sells OEM batteries and they come with replacement screws which is nice. Interestingly enough I've been happy with my V1 ER9 groupsets on my two road bikes. I have no desire to get the V3 ER9/X at this point.
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AliEx offered me an exclusive price on LTwoo eGR at pre US tariff prices so I ended up ordering a second groupset (I already own one). I also just received a Wheeltop GeX groupset to compare the two setups. I have a feeling EGR might get phased out for ETT and I like the idea of having replaceable 14500 batteries. I even ordered a few spare replacement batteries for the GeX. A seller on AliEx sells OEM batteries and they come with replacement screws which is nice. Interestingly enough I've been happy with my V1 ER9 groupsets on my two road bikes. I have no desire to get the V3 ER9/X at this point.
How much, if you don't mind me asking?
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How much, if you don't mind me asking?
It was about $424 after tax and baked in tariffs. Not as good as my pre-tariff BF $300 price, but the cheapest currently on AliEx is $654 for the EGR groupset. I could have got the price in the mid $300 range if I had shipped it to my out-of-state family member with no sales tax. Though I'm too impatient to wait if I have to travel and pick it up! ;D
318bike store was the vendor. They also did a fire sale with Magene 3 bolt power meters before being phased out in favor of the Magene P515 PM crankset and PM pedals. My theory (though I could be wrong) is that 318bike store was dumping old inventory to make room for whatever LTwoo plans to release next.
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Can anyone who has bought a full new groupset recently confirm what the charging situation is? I'm a bit wary about buying a new set if charging is done via the battery port. Is there a usb-c version about to be released?
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Can anyone who has bought a full new groupset recently confirm what the charging situation is? I'm a bit wary about buying a new set if charging is done via the battery port. Is there a usb-c version about to be released?
I'll tell you in a day or two when it delivers. My groupset has already cleared domestic customs. There seemed to be low stock for the last few months, but it seems more AliEx vendors have restocked on eGR groupsets. I'll see which charging method my new eGR will come with.
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Can anyone who has bought a full new groupset recently confirm what the charging situation is? I'm a bit wary about buying a new set if charging is done via the battery port. Is there a usb-c version about to be released?
If habe the Version that charge vie the battery cable. Works well, no problem.
I think my problem were the quality of my batteries and not the derailleur in the end 🙃
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I just received my 2nd eGR groupset. I can confirm magnetic charging has been removed and barbs come with rubber o-rings now.
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I just received my 2nd eGR groupset. I can confirm magnetic charging has been removed and barbs come with rubber o-rings now.
Wow. What a bad move. I just wish I could get a hold of a new set of arms for my original eGR.
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Wow. What a bad move. I just wish I could get a hold of a new set of arms for my original eGR.
Seriously LTwoo could have just added a rubber gasket to the magnetic charging port and called it a day. Not sure why they went with unplugging the cable for charging, it really seems like a half-ass solution.
Anyways, I'll probably use an LTwoo battery holder with two battery cable ports and connect the USB charging cable to a second cable routed in the seat post. I'll just cap off the cable when not charging.
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Anyone know what's the max chainring I can fit on this group set? Thinking of a 1x system with at least a 50-52t chainring.
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Anyone know what's the max chainring I can fit on this group set? Thinking of a 1x system with at least a 50-52t chainring.
Since there is no front derailleur I don't think there is a limit?
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Anyone know what's the max chainring I can fit on this group set? Thinking of a 1x system with at least a 50-52t chainring.
I know Wheeltop is more accommodating for 1x road with different size cages, but for outright speed and shifting under pedal load, the EGR is superior in performance (I have both). I'm guessing the EGR will be fine with a bigger front chainring in 1x configuration as long as your chain length is adequate for whichever cassette you plan to pair with.
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Anyone know what's the max chainring I can fit on this group set? Thinking of a 1x system with at least a 50-52t chainring.
The limiting will probably be the frame... if you want to stay 1x the chainring sits farther inboard then it would do in a 2x setup (since there is no inner ring) which is better for chainline... the chainstays usually the point where chainrings would hit when they become too big... so this is where I'd see the limit - not with the RD, that shouldn't care how bit the ring up front is...
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Is it possible to get a summary of this groupset so far, given that this thread is now over two years old?
- What are the long-term reviews so far?
- Does the groupset still have known issues?
- Has anyone tried the "2026 version" being offered on AliExpress?
- Are there any known updates in the pipeline? I'm really hoping for a version that charges over USB-C.
I am considering it for a 1x12 endurance bike (40 x 10-46).
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Is it possible to get a summary of this groupset so far, given that this thread is now over two years old?
- What are the long-term reviews so far?
- Does the groupset still have known issues?
- Has anyone tried the "2026 version" being offered on AliExpress?
- Are there any known updates in the pipeline? I'm really hoping for a version that charges over USB-C.
I am considering it for a 1x12 endurance bike (40 x 10-46).
For all of these groupsets, I encouraged people to make new threads for the new versions, but people just keep coming back to the same old thread. The new 2026 versions are entirely different animals compared to the ones released 2 years ago, so I can understand your frustration.
I have an original release eGR. It's been fantastic. I only have about 1000mi on it over the last 2 years, but it does have 1000mi and has lasted 2 years coming up in February. Shifting suffered a little after a big crash where I think I bent something and didn't like going up to 50t 12x drive, but it still shifts pretty well (all things considered). I literally have never changed the brifter battery since I put a Duracell 2032 cell in it when I first installed it, lol. One day it's going to die on me, and I'll whip out my phone and switch to my left brifter.
I think the new 2026 eGR would SUCK, if only because it has no way to charge it other than removing the seatpost or unplugging the rear derailleur. That was a massive downgrade in feature, in my opinion. Maybe they had some water ingress issues in the eR9/eRX lineup that made them eliminate the magnetic charger, I don't know. But my eGR hasn't seemed to mind water (though I try not to douse it). In my opinion, constantly plugging/un-plugging/putting-stress-on the rear power port is going to cause WAY more issues. But, what do I know?
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How long does the battery last for you?
From what I hear, Shimano Di2 seatpost batteries usually last around a month. If L-TWOO was able to achieve something similar, unplugging the cable from the rear derailleur once a month doesn't seem so bad.
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Is it possible to get a summary of this groupset so far, given that this thread is now over two years old?
I am considering it for a 1x12 endurance bike (40 x 10-46).
- What are the long-term reviews so far?
I've been using my v1 eGR for over a year, it' still running strong. It can clear a 50t cassette with no problem.
- Does the groupset still have known issues?
The unadvertised v2 eGR removed magnetic charging. It now requires unplugging the battery cable and charging it directly to a cable plug that can connect to a USB charger. Not ideal since v1 just needed a rubber gasket cover. My batteries lasted quite long with no charging while out in the desert.
- Has anyone tried the "2026 version" being offered on AliExpress?
It has flat mount brake calipers, but I'm guessing everything else is the same.
- Are there any known updates in the pipeline? I'm really hoping for a version that charges over USB-C.
LTwoo eTT which is fully wireless and drop shifter compatible was supposed to be released already, but hasn't come out. My guess is there might be patent issues still being ironed out.
In my opinion, eGR it's one of the best 1x groupsets available for the price. I also have Wheeltop GeX and I prefer eGR due to superior brake lever ergonomics. The brake levers are so far out with GeX, it makes it hard to descend down bumpy trails at full speed. LTwoo also shifts faster and can do so under pedal load.
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My old version eGR has been great. Replaced the battery that it came with for ones I found good recommendations on here, and its lasted forever. Absolutely minimal battery drain even when its sat for a few weeks.
I can't imagine having to pull out the seatpost to charge. An expensive solution would be pairing the shifters to the (allegedly) upcoming mtb derailleur to be fully wireless.
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My old version eGR has been great. Replaced the battery that it came with for ones I found good recommendations on here, and its lasted forever. Absolutely minimal battery drain even when its sat for a few weeks.
I can't imagine having to pull out the seatpost to charge. An expensive solution would be pairing the shifters to the (allegedly) upcoming mtb derailleur to be fully wireless.
You don't have to pull out the seat post, you just have to unplug the RD battery cable and connect it to a charging cable with a USB attachment. The magnetic charging is still ideal. LTwoo seemed lazy and just removed magnetic charging from all their current electronic groupsets. All they needed was a rubber gasket, but there's a good chance Shimano or SRAM have elaborate patents with rubber gasket covers.
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Does the eGR support 10-46t cassettes? The specs mention a smallest cog of 11t.
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Does the eGR support 10-46t cassettes? The specs mention a smallest cog of 11t.
Yeah I'm running 9-46t and 9-50t with no problem. You just have to adjust the high limit screw.
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Is anyone willing to measure the length of the hoods (from the end to the point where they start to turn upwards)? I'd like to compare them to Wheeltop GeX, SRAM Rival, and mechanical GRX.
I've heard Wheeltop is quite small, and the new Rival is quite long, which can make a big difference for a short-reach rider like myself, who can hardly find a fitting frame anymore.
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Is anyone willing to measure the length of the hoods (from the end to the point where they start to turn upwards)? I'd like to compare them to Wheeltop GeX, SRAM Rival, and mechanical GRX.
I've heard Wheeltop is quite small, and the new Rival is quite long, which can make a big difference for a short-reach rider like myself, who can hardly find a fitting frame anymore.
I have both Wheeltop GeX and LTwoo eGR. eGR hoods are WAY better ergonomically with taller hoods and superior brake lever reach adjustment. With the eGR, I add an extra piece of bar tape under the palm area for comfort. I can adequately descend dirt trails with no problems. With GeX shifters, I'm having to feather the brakes while descending, because the lever reach is too long. Having used both GeX and EDS TX, I can't even fully recommend either system due to ergonomic shortcomings.
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Also quick measurements:
LTwoo eGR:
- from the top of the hoods to the of the palm area, it's about 11cm
- from the top of the hoods to the tip of the lever, it's about 17cm
- from the tips of the lever to my bars it's also about 11cm
Wheeltop GeX:
- from the top of the hoods to the of the palm area, it's about 9cm
- from the top of the hoods to the tip of the lever, it's about 15cm
- from the tips of the lever to my bars it's also about 12cm
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Yeah I'm running 9-46t and 9-50t with no problem. You just have to adjust the high limit screw.
hmm...now I'm curious if I could fit a 12s 11-51 cassette. I'd like to run the same cassette on my gravel bike as my mtb just for uniformity sake.
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hmm...now I'm curious if I could fit a 12s 11-51 cassette. I'd like to run the same cassette on my gravel bike as my mtb just for uniformity sake.
I run a 12sp 11-50 cassette.
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So my cat ate my eGR charging cable. Anyone know if they sell the cable by itself or do I have to buy the whole battery charging package?
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So my cat ate my eGR charging cable. Anyone know if they sell the cable by itself or do I have to buy the whole battery charging package?
Message 80 Design store. They sell replacement parts.
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Message 80 Design store. They sell replacement parts.
That’s who I bought the group from fortunately.
Unfortunately the cable is $50! Ouch.
Anyone want to buy a cat? $49.99
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very likely you can find someone handy with electricity to fix it. damage doesn't seem too bad so it shouldn't take long at all for someone experienced. either way electronic groupsets can fuck off if they don't have usb c or commonly found batteries imo
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So my cat ate my eGR charging cable. Anyone know if they sell the cable by itself or do I have to buy the whole battery charging package?
I think that you can get it on alix https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006334627796.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c40J9rqx) you can get it for 20€
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I think that you can get it on alix https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006334627796.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c40J9rqx) you can get it for 20€
That’s the cost for the battery cable. The mech charger is a bit more expensive.
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Oh yes i'm sorry it's like 28€
A bit expensive, considering the shimano one is 20€
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That connector doesn't look too proprietary, so maybe it'll be worth trying some 3rd party options like https://aliexpress.com/item/4001028733433.html
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Think is an original part...
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very likely you can find someone handy with electricity to fix it. damage doesn't seem too bad so it shouldn't take long at all for someone experienced. either way electronic groupsets can fuck off if they don't have usb c or commonly found batteries imo
The next cheapest thing to do is just charge the 14500 batteries in an external charger. ;)
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I always use an external charger which I figure is better quality charging (probably my imagination) though I use a good one for all my rechargeables. I don't find I need to charge very often so it's not that much of a PITA and I have two sets of batteries anyway since they are cheap. I always worry about losing or my charger breaking. I really hate proprietary stuff.
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Product refresh 8) https://youtu.be/UE8jOP6kSk4
Fully wireless and up 13 speed now. hopefully wireless usb c fd to come soon
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Product refresh 8) https://youtu.be/UE8jOP6kSk4
Fully wireless and up 13 speed now. hopefully wireless usb c fd to come soon
Is the battery fixed like Wheeltop? There's no indication in the video.
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Is the battery fixed like Wheeltop? There's no indication in the video.
pretty sure yes. probably to avoid patents but i don't mind much since it is usb c
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From the looks of it the new version finally swapped to carbon fiber shifters(according to the website it was only aluminium before), although it's dissapointing to see that the left shifter lost it's buttons so there is now no hope for letting us assign shifting to two levers at once.
The ergonomics for shifters are now exactly the same as newest golden eRX version and it looks like rubber and shape got updates, it seems they are slightly longer and have gentler angle to them now, lever shape is also changed.
The brakes seem to be the same ones that started shipping at the start of 2026 and just slightly updated V3 version that do not need adapters to mount.
Now the most exciting for sure is the RD, finally we have a full wireless system and it seems they optimized the weight a bit since it claims to be the same 333g as previous version(info from the website) despite now having a battery included(overall the groupset is lighter by the weight of battery pack, cable and batteries). But the rated capacity of 400mAh is concerning, previously the battery pack came with two 800mAh for a total of 1600mAh and while LTWOO claimed 3000km range, based on posts on this forum realistically it was way lower. Now they claim 1500km range with 400mAh so unless they made some massive improvements to current consumption of their RD, range might be a real problem with the new version. USB-C charging is the second best change right after full wireless imo and very very welcome one. Now the RD officially supports up to 50T cassette but the cage design does not seem to be different so it might just be updated spec sheet instead of any real change but will need to be verified once they ship the product. Also integrated battery is not ideal but as someone else mentioned it's mostly due to SRAM patents, but it will be sad not having the option to just swap the cells or upgrade them to higher capacity sometimes down the line.
I hope price will also go down a bit since now only one shifter requires electronics and all the HW, while the other is just a brake so hopefully it can bring the cost down even further. I hope they also release 2x12 version since the shifter is direct copy of eRX now so should not require much R&D there and only require new FD design(hopefully finally fully wireless FD as well and maybe full wireless eRX in the future?).
Lastly their product refreshes and naming scheme is super confusing, they have at this point like 6 different versions of their eGR product and no database with spec sheet for older generations, their manual is also very outdated alongside their instructions videos. Hopefully they update the older generations to 13s as well but it might be just hopeful thinking since they got 2 different models at the moment on their website, one for 10-12s and the other for 10-13s and there might be HW differences between the two.
Overall new refresh seems very interesting and step in the right direction but imo the first generation of this refreshed product might not be as refined and need improvment. Still the most concerning part is the battery capacity of RD, and removal of control buttons from left shifter.
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Just recieved a new eGR groupset, ordered it around 4 weeks ago. I had to pay around 350$ for the groupset and additional 35$ as tax and import fees, it spent 3 weeks of it's journey sitting in different import offices but thnakfully i did not have to pay the full amount of tax + vat. I will share some of my first impressions and thoughts about it and some pictures.
First of all it looks very good in person, I did not expect it to look this premium, shifters and RD are very nice and felt good quality, especially for that price, brakes look amazing as well. Battery pack and cables is where Ltwoo lost some points from me, battery pack is extreamly flimsy and cables themsevles do not feel very durable imo, especially with the need to unplug one to recharge(yes I still recieved the old version but in gold colour, not the full wireless).
When trying to setup and test the groupset ofc the link to android app on their website does not work and forces user to find it via google play store, instructions are very outdated as well, and app itself while ok, it could use some work and improvements(Iw would not accept my password despite fulfilling all conditions and required reinstall). Afterwards mounting CR2032 batteries in shifters was horrible, rubber was very hard to pull back and replacing the batteries will be even more of a pain(at least rubber will get slightly worn out and might be easier to pull off). I also purchased the wrong 14500 batteries as i got ones with flat top, but LTWOO requires button style ones, I ordered some neodymium magnets to work around the issue as i got F15 Vapcells that have 1500mAh capacity each and it would be too expensive to just ordered another ones, and contact resistance in this wattage should not make much of a difference so for anyone else 5x1mm neodymium magnets should work as top button replacement for this application.
Now I have not been able to test much more and just checked the weight of entire groupset atm as im still waiting for my lightcarbon LCG074-D frame to build an entire mostly aliexpress gravel bike, but hopefully in around a month I can come back and give some more of my thoughts about this group.
I have recieved the V3 version, but with updated shifters and letter coloring to gold ones, seemingly its a transition version of between full wireless that was recently announced and old V3 or blue version. I attached some pictures for the weight and how the groupset looks with updated visuals.(First time attaching a picture to a comment so it might not be ideal)
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I have recieved the V3 version, but with updated shifters and letter coloring to gold ones, seemingly its a transition version of between full wireless that was recently announced and old V3 or blue version. I attached some pictures for the weight and how the groupset looks with updated visuals.(First time attaching a picture to a comment so it might not be ideal)
What store did you order through? Did you retain the buttons on the left shifter or the new set that dropped the shifters?
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What store did you order through? Did you retain the buttons on the left shifter or the new set that dropped the shifters?
I order via 80s desginer store, initially they send me a picture of a blue version of shifters but i recieved the golden ones. They both still have all the buttons just updated letter colour and rubber design. Overall what i got is just a redesign of a blue version.
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At this point, I'd just wait for the upcoming full wireless 13 speed eGR groupset to drop. I don't like the idea of having to unplug the battery cable and use a proprietary usb cable to charge it.
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At this point, I'd just wait for the upcoming full wireless 13 speed eGR groupset to drop. I don't like the idea of having to unplug the battery cable and use a proprietary usb cable to charge it.
Yeah i wish i had waited a bit more but i ordered my set around a week before new full wireless got announced. I could just refuse my package, but seeing that we do not know when it will go for sale, what price it will be etc. I decided to just stay with old design. But as I stated in my other comment, while i think that 13 speed and full wireless is nice I do see some drawbacks from new design as well.
Let's start from the positives:
- 13-speed, obviously it's great having an option to go up to 13 gears, but atm 13 speed cassettes are quite expensive and there is also a weight drawback, so while nice options ot have imo its not really essential.
- Full wireless is great, no flimsy cables or battery pack, but it has drawbacks i will discuss later.
- Seemingly much more robust B screw bracket and metal piece(yes the one that snapped in blue version for trace velo).
- RD of the same weight even when it has battery attached now(overall system around 80-100g lighter)
- USB-C charging, no flimsy proprietary charging cable.
- Possibly cheaper due to less components(no left shifter buttons, no cables or battery pack)
For drawbacks
- First generation of full wireless, might have some hidden troubles that did not get caught by Ltwoo, like many of their other first gens.
- 400mAh battery capacity. Previously we had around 1600mAh in the seatpost pack that Ltwoo claimed lasted 3000km, but many user claimed less. Still had an option of putting vapcell F15 in there for example and get total of 3000mAh capacity(7,5 times what full wireless has).
- No shifter buttons on left lever
- No swappable battery
I think overall its a step in a good direction, but at the same time at one point i was thinking I could try to use er9 FD. No Idea if it will work yet, as there is not a lot of information but it would be pretty cool if it's a viable option. I would need new battery pack and cable but i could have USB-C charging and an option to go 2x. And replacement cables are still like 20$ so I think i'm going to order them just in case they become unavailable later down the line. But still my main reason is battery capacity and possibility of maybe creating 2x system as i live in pretty flat place. The only reason i did not go for eRX is becouse I still enjoy riding forest or dirt roads the most.
Overall, I wish i knew they will refresh eGR a week after i ordered, but at the same time I don't think it would change my decision.
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Gave my bike with eGR a quick, gentle wash and now the rear mech is dead. Hopefully just airing it out will solve the issue as it did in the Trace Velo video. Will definitely do the waterproofing as others have done moving forward.
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Gave my bike with eGR a quick, gentle wash and now the rear mech is dead. Hopefully just airing it out will solve the issue as it did in the Trace Velo video. Will definitely do the waterproofing as others have done moving forward.
Was your cable plug fully seated into the RD? I've ridden my eGR equipped gravel bike in several rainstorms with no issue. When I get home I always dry my bike and sometimes use a leaf blower. I dry more to protect the bearings and to avoid any sitting water.
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Pretty sure it was. Then again, I’m also scared of damaging the pins when plugging it in, so maybe not.
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After letting it sit unplugged overnight it’s alive again, but batteries are drained. I’ll give it a charge and see how it’s doing later.
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New problem.
Left it charging and when I came back to check it out it’s unresponsive. Light on rd is constantly blinking. Also, no green light on shifters and they are unresponsive. Is it possible rd stayed active and somehow drained shifter batteries?
I can see the mech in the app. When I do the long press on mech button, it resets in the app but the cage does not move.
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New problem.
Left it charging and when I came back to check it out it’s unresponsive. Light on rd is constantly blinking. Also, no green light on shifters and they are unresponsive. Is it possible rd stayed active and somehow drained shifter batteries?
I can see the mech in the app. When I do the long press on mech button, it resets in the app but the cage does not move.
Honestly, this is more or less how 3 of my RD died. I am on my 4th now which does not have the magnetic charger anymore, so far so good. It always started with a light wash, the RD being unresponsive after, sometimes it came back to life but then started draining batteries or misbehaving in other ways until it fully died. That's the negative. Lucky for me, each RD died within a year of purchase or replacement so the shop I bought from (80s designer store) has been extremely helpful and replaced it each time. I just had to upload proof in form of videos or images and pay for shipping. That's the positive. That being said, my wife's eGR is still going strong after 3 years. Maybe it's me.
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Unfortunately its been over a year.
Double checked the app and it does show the shifters still working and the moving the mech, but the mech is just not responsive. Green light shows up though.
I also bought from 80 designer store. Messaged them yesterday and hoping for some help from them, but might end up having to buy a new one.
EDIT:
80 Designer store replied. Old mech is discontinued. Waiting to see if they can get me the updated one individually.
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I hate that LTwoo removed magnetic charging. All they needed to do is put a rubber gasket on that stupid charging port. My Wheeltop GeX has a rubber cover and that mech works fine in wet conditions. Though Wheeltop brake levers ergos are such cr@p and shifting is less responsive compared to LTwoo.
For all the quirks of eGR, when it works, it's just as good as my friend's 12 speed GRX Di2 and the hoods and lever positioning is perfectly suited for fast downhill riding.
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Unfortunately its been over a year.
Double checked the app and it does show the shifters still working and the moving the mech, but the mech is just not responsive. Green light shows up though.
I also bought from 80 designer store. Messaged them yesterday and hoping for some help from them, but might end up having to buy a new one.
EDIT:
80 Designer store replied. Old mech is discontinued. Waiting to see if they can get me the updated one individually.
Hard reset the mech like 10-20 times and have it plugged into the charger. I revived a dead ER9 RD that way and since then haven't had issues. I even sent a video to 80 Design Store, they sent me a replacement, but I revived the RD so I ended up with a spare! ;D
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Hard reset the mech like 10-20 times and have it plugged into the charger. I revived a dead ER9 RD that way and since then haven't had issues. I even sent a video to 80 Design Store, they sent me a replacement, but I revived the RD so I ended up with a spare! ;D
I've tried a bunch of times already, but I'll give it a go later. Hopefully it comes back to life.
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Reading this thread it still seems like a unreliable POS. 👎
Is anyone happy with this groupset?
Is there a Chinese groupo that is reliable in a 1 x13 format?
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Hard reset the mech like 10-20 times and have it plugged into the charger. I revived a dead ER9 RD that way and since then haven't had issues. I even sent a video to 80 Design Store, they sent me a replacement, but I revived the RD so I ended up with a spare! ;D
It worked!
Was about to give up. Then the green light stayed on continuously after one of the resets and I heard the mechanism zip back to life.
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And it’s dead again, but I think I’ve identified the problem. It’s doing the same exact thing Luke’s did in his install video. Same clicking noise. The mech thinks it’s further up the cassette than it actually is and won’t reset properly. Almost dropped the chain into the chainstay.
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Hard reset the mech like 10-20 times and have it plugged into the charger. I revived a dead ER9 RD that way and since then haven't had issues. I even sent a video to 80 Design Store, they sent me a replacement, but I revived the RD so I ended up with a spare! ;D
I know what I’ll be trying tomorrow morning. Maybe I’ll end up with 3 spares.
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Confirmed the issue when it came back to life. Mech is on the smallest cog, but thinks it’s on the biggest cog. Long press is supposed to fix that, but it’s not working. Might have to take it apart and manually reset it like in the Trace Velo did.
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Ok. Had to delete and reinstall app and completely redo everything. It’s at least moving through the gears now but I’ll have to index it all over again tomorrow. I’m done tinkering for today lol!😝
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Looks like ltwoo official store just release the new gen EGR.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMwIXqf
Sent a message to the store to confirm if this will the the version supporting 13 speed or not since title says 11 and 12 but the photos below say 13. Either way I'm gonna risk it and try out the integrated battery, my er7 has been flawless so far so fingers crossed most of the waterproofing issues have been resolved.
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Yeah, a few days ago when I messaged 80 designer store about a possible replacement mech they said they're discontinued and wait for the new one. They then offered to sell me a right shifter and mech. Hopefully this doesn't mean the new stuff is incompatible.
Also, I had got me egr shifting nice and crisp and was ready to ride this morning.
Then realized I hadn't saved the settings. Doh!
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New LTwoo eGR is available:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtBrKTl (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtBrKTl)
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Ok. Now that my eGR is up and running again I'll do the water proofing I should've done in the first place.
To be ULTRA CLEAR, is it just the battery cable port that needs it, or the charging port as well?
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Ok. Now that my eGR is up and running again I'll do the water proofing I should've done in the first place.
To be ULTRA CLEAR, is it just the battery cable port that needs it, or the charging port as well?
I just picked a small tube of dielectric grease from the auto store and smear it around the port. Also for good measure I brush on some Elmer's rubber cement which provides another layer of protection and adhesion. I never tried putting the grease inside the port, I'd just be worried in might interfere with conductivity. Both the grease and rubber cement easily come off as well. I've done this with all my LTwoo groupsets. This is probably why my groupsets runs better than most who've had failures.
I've compared my eGR to my friend's 12 speed GRX Di2 and the eGR isn't far off if not equal in terms of shift performance. Wheeltop GeX on the other hand has better sealing and ease of installation, but the app adjustments suck, lever ergonomics are terrible and shift performance is slower. With eGR I can just easily dump gears and shift under pedal load.
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I messaged 80 designer store with couple of questions and while some of them got their meaning lost in translation i got a reply with some valuable information.
- According to them any eGR RD should have the ability to get 13 speed upgrade in APP but it is not recommended as their have different cage design and might go into wheel spokes.
- New shifters are not compatible with the old eGR generation so if you want to upgrade it is necessary to swap both the shifter and RD.
So overall the possibility to upgrade old gens to 13 speed is nice but very disappointing to see that in case of RD or shifter failure for old gen, we will be forced to swap both of them as there is no backwards compatibility :(
I asked few more questions but their exact meaning got lost in translation and the response i got was not accurate to the question, but based on clues they answered that attaching FD to old gen and using left shifter for it is possible but for new gen getting rid of shifting function on left shifter makes any conversion to 2x not possible.
I would be very interested if anyone could verify new RD compatibility with old version of shifter. Also despite their claims i still did not recieve any updates for my RD and i do not see a possibility for 13 speed on blue version so their comments might not be accurate.
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I messaged 80 designer store with couple of questions and while some of them got their meaning lost in translation i got a reply with some valuable information.
- According to them any eGR RD should have the ability to get 13 speed upgrade in APP but it is not recommended as their have different cage design and might go into wheel spokes.
- New shifters are not compatible with the old eGR generation so if you want to upgrade it is necessary to swap both the shifter and RD.
So overall the possibility to upgrade old gens to 13 speed is nice but very disappointing to see that in case of RD or shifter failure for old gen, we will be forced to swap both of them as there is no backwards compatibility :(
I asked few more questions but their exact meaning got lost in translation and the response i got was not accurate to the question, but based on clues they answered that attaching FD to old gen and using left shifter for it is possible but for new gen getting rid of shifting function on left shifter makes any conversion to 2x not possible.
I would be very interested if anyone could verify new RD compatibility with old version of shifter. Also despite their claims i still did not recieve any updates for my RD and i do not see a possibility for 13 speed on blue version so their comments might not be accurate.
My new gen egr is in the US now and then my buddy has to ship it to me, but I have some gen 1 erx shifters laying around that I can test if they can pair. I may be wrong but isnt the brain of the system in the RD so even if you paired a FD to a egr rd, wouldn't it still not work?
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My new gen egr is in the US now and then my buddy has to ship it to me, but I have some gen 1 erx shifters laying around that I can test if they can pair. I may be wrong but isnt the brain of the system in the RD so even if you paired a FD to a egr rd, wouldn't it still not work?
Honestly I have no clue, as I said this is what i got from 80 designer store. But suprsingly when trying to update my shifters today they displayed their name as 'eRX version 3 shifter' so it seems the shifters might be exactly the same as eRX with just changed branding and obviously removed buttons from one of them.
I did see couple of comments of people attempting it and some even claimed to be successful on various facebook forums but I have yet to see proof of it. I might attempt it myself once i manage to grab eR9 fully wireless FD and check if it will work.
Now on different topic but did anyone have any issues with updating their eGR RD? I have been trying various things for entire day due to 80 designer store claiming it can support 13 speed but so far no luck and i have been locked to v0.0.1 firmware version.
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So after all that work to get the groupset up and running and I broke the rear mech just like in the other Trace Velo video. It slipped off my bike rack while loading it up and it landed right on that little metal tab. Off it came. Completely my fault. But here we are.
Some luck I’m having lately.
https://youtu.be/RAxgkp4RTuc?si=sPo9sqT8hNq1_I0m
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What do you guys think. Can this be jb welded :'(
I’m struggling finding a replacement rear mech since it’s discontinued. Or I might have to pony up for a new groupset. I really liked it…when it worked.
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Ok. Finally found a place that can sell me a replacement mech. Comes out to about $230 shipped just for the rear mech. Ouch.
Probably just going to splurge on the new updated group since spares will be hard to come by and its apparently not cross compatible.
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G’ordered thz new eGR, $430 delivered duty paid to US, really good deal and with a try I think
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I'll definitely wait for coupons. It was about $350 shipped last week with the coupon.
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I'll definitely wait for coupons. It was about $350 shipped last week with the coupon.
Where are you based? As I've said, I have 4 rear derailleurs in total, 3 of them dead. I kept them for spare parts so am happy to help you out with the required part if it can be disassembled properly and we can work out shipping
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I'll definitely wait for coupons. It was about $350 shipped last week with the coupon.
Dang that was an awesome price!
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G’ordered thz new eGR, $430 delivered duty paid to US, really good deal and with a try I think
Where did you ordered it? I can't see new eGR anywhere
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Where did you ordered it? I can't see new eGR anywhere
I got mine from the LTWOO direct store. Waiting for my buddy to ship mine to me. Hoping it gets here either Fri or Sat.
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Where are you based? As I've said, I have 4 rear derailleurs in total, 3 of them dead. I kept them for spare parts so am happy to help you out with the required part if it can be disassembled properly and we can work out shipping
USA
It might be part of the derailleur body itself. Let me double check and see. Thanks for being willing to help.
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My impatience got the best of me. Used the $45 coupon and ordered the new eGR.
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lol, sucker!
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Surprised there is no review/impression on YT of this yet. Very tempted to try it, less than half the price of equivalent Shimano. And USB-C charging port is actually a big plus for longer trips (assuming waterproofing is up to standard)
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Surprised there is no review/impression on YT of this yet. Very tempted to try it, less than half the price of equivalent Shimano. And USB-C charging port is actually a big plus for longer trips (assuming waterproofing is up to standard)
Not sure I'd say less than half - a Shimano 105 lever + caliper set and Deore derailleur seems to be around $650 USD from the usual AliExpress vendors.
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Not sure I'd say less than half - a Shimano 105 lever + caliper set and Deore derailleur seems to be around $650 USD from the usual AliExpress vendors.
Will this derailleur work with road di2 shifters?
https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-RD-M6250-SGS.html
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Not sure I'd say less than half - a Shimano 105 lever + caliper set and Deore derailleur seems to be around $650 USD from the usual AliExpress vendors.
Very fair point. However I will say, new EGR appears (on spec sheet, at least) ~100g lighter than the RD-M6250 and has a slightly higher capacity battery (400mah vs 350mah).
Shimano is hot-swappable, though requires proprietary charger. Apparently you can never quite have it all!
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Will this derailleur work with road di2 shifters?
https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-RD-M6250-SGS.html
Yes - fully cross compatible.
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Does anyone know if the braking calipers are swappable with shimano or sram calipers?
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Does anyone know if the braking calipers are swappable with shimano or sram calipers?
I am using my eGR with a Shimano XT caliper up front because I have a post mount fork. No issues at all. Just make sure that the calipers you are intending to use are for mineral oil. Sram uses DOT fluid (I think the new mavens use mineral but generally it's DOT) and these are not compatible.
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I am using my eGR with a Shimano XT caliper up front because I have a post mount fork. No issues at all. Just make sure that the calipers you are intending to use are for mineral oil. Sram uses DOT fluid (I think the new mavens use mineral but generally it's DOT) and these are not compatible.
Im running the inverse, 105 shifters with LTWOO calipers and it works. Possibly a bit more than stock 105 calipers.
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With coupon and PayPal discount, what could be had for $340 delivered to US, at that price it’s hard to pass. I went in a couple of weeks to early with my purchase…
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Yes noticed that - similar price to Australia, very good deal. But I couldn't resist Shimano, using the same AliExpress coupons after the discussion here for the new build (just need to choose a frame now...)
R7170 shifters/calipers and full XT M8200 incl chain & cassette was 800USD delivered (will make some back by selling the XT shifter). About 300USD more than EGR with Shimano cassette & chain.
Next time for me with LTwoo!
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Didn't realize the summer sale was this week! Could've saved about $80 on my egr if I waited.
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has anyone had any experience with the new shimano Style egr.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE8jOP6kSk4
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Didn't realize the summer sale was this week! Could've saved about $80 on my egr if I waited.
Same here…
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has anyone had any experience with the new shimano Style egr.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE8jOP6kSk4
UPS is currently holding my unit hostage even tho it got to my city Sunday, they're not delivering until thursday??
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I was about to pull a trigger on the eGR 2026 but found out that for now they just putting left lever with removed buttons instead of the new one showed on the ltwoo website.
I know that with my OCD that would piss me off every time I put a finger there.
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New eGR arrived and I'm looking to pair with new 12s cassettes. Officially it says max 50t, but what are the odds it can do 51t?
For some reason 11-50t cassettes are way more expensive than 11-51.
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New eGR arrived and I'm looking to pair with new 12s cassettes. Officially it says max 50t, but what are the odds it can do 51t?
For some reason 11-50t cassettes are way more expensive than 11-51.
1000000 to 1. literally doesnt make a difference
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I was about to pull a trigger on the eGR 2026 but found out that for now they just putting left lever with removed buttons instead of the new one showed on the ltwoo website.
I know that with my OCD that would piss me off every time I put a finger there.
I noticed this immediately as well. I like the look of the new shifter ergonomics but that little cutout is pure laziness on their part.
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Here are some photos of what I received. Haven't finished installing yet but I can confirm that it supports 13 speed. Also you can now swap the paddle buttons.
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I'm now glad that I passed this. That left shifter looks terrible.
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Anyone knows how to buy the ELEVER aka flatbar shifters they have on their website since a long time? There is a new eR9 offering on AliX with a thumb shifter but that is yet a different one.
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Does anyone know if the new derailleur is compatible with old er9/eGr shifters?
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Does anyone know if the new derailleur is compatible with old er9/eGr shifters?
Not compatible.
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I'm now glad that I passed this. That left shifter looks terrible.
gotta agree it looks bad but I just left my er7 left shifter on so they look similar besides the carbon.
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Tom Bowers has a YouTube review up now.
No spoilers...but I'm not upset I decided to go for a Shimano build.
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Currently seeing eGR for $287 shipped after coupons. That’s absurdly cheap.
I just found this on AliExpress: | 2026 new LTWOO eGR Wireless Gravel Electronic Groupset, 1x12s / 1x11s / 1x10s, APP programming
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m03HyAX
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Tom Bowers has a YouTube review up now.
No spoilers...but I'm not upset I decided to go for a Shimano build.
At $320 most of his criticism is a bit of harsh. Like apparently build quality, if it shifts and is reliable, at this price point, I wouldn’t care. The usb c cover waterproofing:
These are pretty common now, if you don’t like this one buy one from a marine shop or somewhere else.
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At $320 most of his criticism is a bit of harsh. Like apparently build quality, if it shifts and is reliable, at this price point, I wouldn’t care. The usb c cover waterproofing:
These are pretty common now, if you don’t like this one buy one from a marine shop or somewhere else.
Couldnt agree more. For me, I like the ltwoo system and it works just fine for me. Today was doing some offroad inclines and it shifted crisp under power and didnt sound/feel like it was struggling one bit. Braking is still better than my 105 mechanical i came from, shifter ergo is way more comfortable than the prior generations (I do find the 105 hoods more comfortable tho). Shifter buttons are tactile enough that I don't find myself second guessing much if any.
I will agree that the 50 tooth does semi struggle a bit to ramp up to it but for me that is a last resort gear so I don't mind it.
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Not compatible.
Honestly very disappointed in Ltwoo as it seems the shifters did not change at all compared to old version outside of the letter color. I also hoped older version would get button change and 13 speed update as 80 designer stated they would but it seems Ltwoo does not care about their older products.
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If it works, it works. For the price it's better than Wheeltop GeX and pretty close to GRX Di2.
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Are early deraileur cages compatible with this? I would like to use my shimano 10-51 cassette.
I'm now glad that I passed this. That left shifter looks terrible.
There is no gap in paddle lever on oficial website. It might be some early prerelease units. To be fair i would prefer paddles on both left and right banda.
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Every link I check (US) has these for over $400- wtf.
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Every link I check (US) has these for over $400- wtf.
Does this one now show the discount? Don’t forget to use the coupons.
I just found this on AliExpress: | 2026 new LTWOO eGR Wireless Gravel Electronic Groupset, 1x12s / 1x11s / 1x10s, APP programming
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtLKInp
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Did anyone manage to use the new eGR yet? im really concerned about battery life on them as they advertise 4500mAh but on the battery they state only 400mAh and considering that the old gen had 1600mAh total in the battery pack im really concerned about total range since the capacity is only 25% of what we had before.
I also messages Ltwoo customer service and they stated that there is currently no schedule for updating the old generations with newer functions that is 13 speed and ability to swap button functions on shifters. But I should await further official announcements from LTWOO about this topic.
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Are early deraileur cages compatible with this? I would like to use my shimano 10-51 cassette.
There is no gap in paddle lever on oficial website. It might be some early prerelease units. To be fair i would prefer paddles on both left and right banda.
My new unit has the gap for the shifters in in on the left shifter.
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Did anyone manage to use the new eGR yet? im really concerned about battery life on them as they advertise 4500mAh but on the battery they state only 400mAh and considering that the old gen had 1600mAh total in the battery pack im really concerned about total range since the capacity is only 25% of what we had before.
I also messages Ltwoo customer service and they stated that there is currently no schedule for updating the old generations with newer functions that is 13 speed and ability to swap button functions on shifters. But I should await further official announcements from LTWOO about this topic.
Right now on my new unit lost about 5% with 3ish hrs. So prob not the best battery life but with the type c charging I'm not to concerned.
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My new unit has the gap for the shifters in in on the left shifter.
https://www.ltwoo.com/en/productDetails?series=EGR&productName=ST-EG1202-L-C#target-section2
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https://www.ltwoo.com/en/productDetails?series=EGR&productName=ST-EG1202-L-C#target-section2
This lever is not a part of the actually available sets. Take a look at my previous post and the YT video.
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This lever is not a part of the actually available sets. Take a look at my previous post and the YT video.
According to specs its wireless, what they are selling now on aliexpress seems like an enginering build that will be replaced by a more polished and finished product like they have done with older groupsets.
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According to specs its wireless, what they are selling now on aliexpress seems like an enginering build that will be replaced by a more polished and finished product like they have done with older groupsets.
I could see that but for now, my unit has the cutout, but I am not running that side regardless in case I want to use my er7.
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Greetings all!
I am having problems with binding and pairing the rear derailleur and shifter on a new EGR V. 3 installation. I cannot get the shifter to change gear up or down after supposedly pairing.
Connection to the app registers the rear derailleur and informs me it has the latest firmware. Attempts to 'see' the controller for firmware update fail.
In the pairing, hold shifter button for four seconds and immediately press the rear derailleur button there is communication. A motor sound and a mechanical 'nudge' result. There is no shift resulting from clicking the shifter paddles. Green light shows in the shifter with each click.
The rear derailleur will shift and and down via the app. In the app I have set to 10 speed. As yet I have no rear wheel, cassette, chain on the bike. Ninth and tenth gear which would be smallest two cogs mech motor is whirring and clicks but makes the shifts. I have written to my seller, no reply just yet but still very early to expect one.
Any thoughts and suggestions from the community?
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Greetings all!
I am having problems with binding and pairing the rear derailleur and shifter on a new EGR V. 3 installation. I cannot get the shifter to change gear up or down after supposedly pairing.
Success! I think I hope. For the benefit of other readers who may also come across this problem I will share my experience. Looking for any glimmer of help online I benefited from Google Ai on my Android smartphone. Having trawled through lots of entries from Facebook comments and forum replies it was the addition of the 'if you tell me this.....' additional bits of info that got me there.
So what worked? The Ai suggested deleting the rear mech from the app. Then to delete to cache of the app. (I in turn deleted the storage) It then said delete the app and reinstall. Connect the app to the derailleur and then try to pair with the shifter (controller) My first attempts at pairing failed. It was the adamant statement inferring you must be doing something wrong when pairing that did the trick. I tried again. Finger on the button on the mech I pressed the shifter button for the four seconds, light on, immediate quick brief click on the mech button. It worked!
I also believe I have solved the clicking on gears nine and ten (10 speed) I think it will resolve when setting high and low screws to match the cassette when the wheel is installed. I will let you know as I progress the build later on.
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I've got the new ltwoo installed on my bxt 135, but haven't had a chance to go out for a ride yet. Paired up with no issues for me. Will fine tune it later today and hopefully get out to ride this weekend.
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Took the bike out for a more muddy/wet ride. happy to report that the weatherproofing held up well and shifting worked flawlessly under load and grime.
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Finally took the new groupset out for a ride. Could just be me, but shifting feels a tiny bit slower than V1 eGR. Other than that, it works great.
Battery went down about 5% on an hour and a half ride.
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Finally took the new groupset out for a ride. Could just be me, but shifting feels a tiny bit slower than V1 eGR. Other than that, it works great.
Battery went down about 5% on an hour and a half ride.
Anyway you can film the shifting speed? This is something I noticed with the Wheeltop GeX groupset. It's a bit slower and less responsive than the v1 eGR. The eGR performs much closer to my friend's 12 speed Di2 GRX setup.
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Anyway you can film the shifting speed? This is something I noticed with the Wheeltop GeX groupset. It's a bit slower and less responsive than the v1 eGR. The eGR performs much closer to my friend's 12 speed Di2 GRX setup.
Yeah. I'll try to get some footage later today.
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Completed the EGR wired build.
Video showing the completed bike here:
https://youtu.be/LUzexzsJvs8?is=hCqtH3J8-bAQO4mI
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Yeah. I'll try to get some footage later today.
Gex in race mode (+sleep función) with 12 speed shimano cassette is really fast. I find it faster than my road 12s shifts(dura ace+ultegra parts)
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My new unit has the gap for the shifters in in on the left shifter.
Mine too, ordered 2 weeks ago.
Obviously just the 2x version with the buttons and electronics left out. Which makes sense as you don‘t really need them and they would add to the cost. Still, they could‘ve just filled the gap with some sort of plastic dummy which really would not brake the bank. Alternatively they could just offer some template for a 3D printer, so customers can help themeselves to one. Someone CAD-enabled here, maybe? 😉
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Mine too, ordered 2 weeks ago.
Obviously just the 2x version with the buttons and electronics left out. Which makes sense as you don‘t really need them and they would add to the cost. Still, they could‘ve just filled the gap with some sort of plastic dummy which really would not brake the bank. Alternatively they could just offer some template for a 3D printer, so customers can help themeselves to one. Someone CAD-enabled here, maybe? 😉
I'm waiting for the shifter which they show on their website. I don't know if sellers just have only rear derailleur and add shifters from other groups. Ltwoo just need new new lever.
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Has anyone used the new egr with a xplr cassette? Since its stated that the min teeth is at 11. Wondering how a 10t is.
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Has anyone used the new egr with a xplr cassette? Since its stated that the min teeth is at 11. Wondering how a 10t is.
I'm using eGR v1 with a 9-50t cassette. Works fine. I'm sure the new one should work fine with a 10t.
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My gravel bike finally got dirty enough to need a washing. Happy to report the new eGR does indeed have good water proofing.
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New LTwoo eGR now available with flat bar shifter and dual piston brake calipers:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html?)
(https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/Sab51b5b5e48c42c09c7a504477a307dcf.png)
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Will the new eGR work with a 12s 10-51 MS cassette ? I can get microspline freehubs for my DT 350 wheels.
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New LTwoo eGR now available with flat bar shifter and dual piston brake calipers:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html?)
(https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/Sab51b5b5e48c42c09c7a504477a307dcf.png)
This link doesn't work and I can't find anything similar.
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Maybe it's a region/country thing - the link works just fine for me (USA). In case it helps you locate the product somehow:
store = LTWOO Factory Store https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1102068195
menu = Products > Bicycle Derailleur MTB > Derailleur Groupsets MTB
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Will the new eGR work with a 12s 10-51 MS cassette ? I can get microspline freehubs for my DT 350 wheels.
On my older eGR v1, I'm almost maxed out my RD screw, but it clears 9-50t. I'm not sure if this newer eGR RD will clear 10-51t, but you'd have to test it out to see if it'll fit. Ideally I'd like 10-52t clearance, that way I can ride a slightly bigger front chainring.
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This link doesn't work and I can't find anything similar.
Link works for me. Try copying the link and manually pasting it in a new tab.
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Quick question, for those with the eGR v2, does it look like the battery can be replaced? That's the one nice thing with Wheeltop GeX. Batteries can easily be removed.
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Quick question, for those with the eGR v2, does it look like the battery can be replaced? That's the one nice thing with Wheeltop GeX. Batteries can easily be removed.
I‘d say yes, but it‘ll be a little bit of a hassle. You‘d have to undo 3 screws holding the outer body in place, and 2 tiny clips to take out 2 axles that run through this body, too. But at least from the outside it doesn‘t look like there is anything glued or riveted in place. And I have to assume that the battery is something standard not anything proprietary. Happy to try during winter season when I don‘t need it. 😉
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Regarding eGR vers. 2: has anyone seen a listing on AliX for pins and olives? The latter seem to be standard Shimano BH90, and former looked similar to Tektro, but the Ltwoo ones seem so be slightly smaller in diameter.
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Just built eGR V2 with M8100 10-51, replaced from GRX Di2 2x12.
Just put shimano pad for compatiblity check. Hood grip feels too solid and hard but shifting / braking is great.
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I have the same groupo on the way. Have gone with m8100 10-45 to start, with 44t chainring. Just confirming it will clear the 51 on the back?
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I have the same groupo on the way. Have gone with m8100 10-45 to start, with 44t chainring. Just confirming it will clear the 51 on the back?
Yes, 10-51 working. and 10-45 works as well without shotening chain.
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Regarding eGR vers. 2: has anyone seen a listing on AliX for pins and olives? The latter seem to be standard Shimano BH90, and former looked similar to Tektro, but the Ltwoo ones seem so be slightly smaller in diameter.
I have just fitted eGR v2 to my Revolt that had 11s GRX cable operated on it. I compared some spare Shimano barbs and olives to the supplied Ltwoo ones. Looked the same to me. I left the GRX brakes and lines on the bike and just slightly shortened the too long lines and fitted them to the eGR levers. I did use the supplied Ltwoo barbs and olives.
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I have just fitted eGR v2 to my Revolt that had 11s GRX cable operated on it. I compared some spare Shimano barbs and olives to the supplied Ltwoo ones. Looked the same to me. I left the GRX brakes and lines on the bike and just slightly shortened the too long lines and fitted them to the eGR levers. I did use the supplied Ltwoo barbs and olives.
The insert came from Ltwoo, does it have the o-ring? I was wondering the major part to prevent the leak is the olives so why oring needed? Any one tried Shimano insert at the latest eGR/eR9 lever?
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The insert came from Ltwoo, does it have the o-ring? I was wondering the major part to prevent the leak is the olives so why oring needed? Any one tried Shimano insert at the latest eGR/eR9 lever?
Yes it did have the o-ring and I used them not shimano ones.
Good point about why is it there.
There is an exclamation warning in the user manual;
Please use the oil needles and olive ferrules supplied with the Ltwoo kit
I think you are correct and they must be used.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLFbTBd
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Yes it did have the o-ring and I used them not shimano ones.
Good point about why is it there.
There is an exclamation warning in the user manual;
Please use the oil needles and olive ferrules supplied with the Ltwoo kit
I think you are correct and they must be used.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLFbTBd
I use bh90 olives/inserts with no issues (erx v1 and er7 v3)- no leaks, great braking performance.
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New LTwoo eGR now available with flat bar shifter and dual piston brake calipers:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256812441216200.html?)
(https://ae-pic-a1.aliexpress-media.com/kf/Sab51b5b5e48c42c09c7a504477a307dcf.png)
This is marketed as a flat bar gravel group. Any reason it can't or shouldn't be used for mtb? Aside from not having a proper clutch that is.
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This is marketed as a flat bar gravel group. Any reason it can't or shouldn't be used for mtb? Aside from not having a proper clutch that is.
Yeah, why not? I thought the lack of a clutch would be a deal breaker, but not once have I needed it after 2 years with the eGR. The spring tension is quite high for everything but huge mid-air jumps! ;)
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Well, I was hesitant to give Ltwoo a go. My cable operated GRX pushed me to and with a great price, so it happened.
Only 260k on it so far but my eGR v2 is bloody good so far.
I have read people complaining of stiff rubber hoods. That is a definite plus imo. The soft floppy GRX hoods gave me the shts. The shape of the hoods is very comfortable also.
Early days, but thus far I am a big fan of eGR. 😎👌
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In case anyone is ever in my situation, I found a listing for the eGR part that is prone to breaking. I was fortunate a forum member sent me a spare off their dead rear mech.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809733643391.html
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Yes, 10-51 working. and 10-45 works as well without shotening chain.
Got my AliEx order with m7100 10-51 cassette and put it on. It is tight in the 51 but works. I won't be in the 51 much, so it is fine. Very happy with the gearing :D
(https://i.imgur.com/jKCMCEa.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pDSol0f.jpeg)