Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: DutchCheapskate on June 05, 2023, 05:37:37 AM
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LTWOO launched their electronic groupset for mindboggling prices. Any experiences with or expectations of these groupsets?
Prices on alibaba are way cheaper than alixpress. Anybody ever bought from alibaba?
Carbon groupset ERX: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838655769.html?spm=a2700.7735675.0.0.63e7aDQdaDQdMY (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838655769.html?spm=a2700.7735675.0.0.63e7aDQdaDQdMY)
Aluminium groupset ER9: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838975287.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.5536138d2AnG1u
(https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-LTWOO-2x12-speed-Wireless-Electric_1600838975287.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.5536138d2AnG1u)
China cycling on the ERX: https://youtu.be/3NYBpuYw9js (https://youtu.be/3NYBpuYw9js)
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ER9 pricing isn’t bad. Not sure I consider $575 for the carbon version much of a steal when Shimano 105 can be had for around $700 these days. But just under $450 for an electronic group is tempting.
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It's around 900 usd for EU on Ali
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Performance and reliability aside, it's just not worth it...yet. A full 105 di2 can be had for like $1250 usd
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I have done a few transactions on Alibaba and I would be surprised if the total cost of er9 is less than $500 to your door if you live in a western country. Its often cheaper to buy things on Aliexpress simply because sellers on Alibaba are passing all the fees on to you. A recent purchase of 50 garmin inserts for example was $20 cheaper on Aliexpress than Alibaba from the same seller.
Given that my target price for batteries, RD, FD, and shifters/brakes for Rival AXS is ~$700, I dont think I am in the market for er9 or ERX either given that warranty support is important for groupsets.
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Groupsets and wheels are the two things you really should not skimp on. Basically any moving or electronic components.
Framesets, handlebars/stem, saddles, and any other static parts can be had for cheap without really posing any risks to safety or reliability.
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ER9 pricing isn’t bad. Not sure I consider $575 for the carbon version much of a steal when Shimano 105 can be had for around $700 these days. But just under $450 for an electronic group is tempting.
Yea, it's so cheap that it's worth a try. The review of ChinaCycling does look good to me. Interestingly, on his reviews on the china bike show he mentioned that it is good to wait for the second version of a groupset. In general, the manufacturers tend to rule out the problems of the first version.
I'm also wondering, how are these groupsets patent wise? Are components illegal copies of other groupsets?
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it actually looks better than the new Campy.
I wonder how the weight is for the ERX, but for the same price you could buy Sram Force.
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Considering I can probably get into Sram Rival AXS for around $900.00 +/- not sure that I'd want to take the chance on a cheaper chinese electro set. I would on the other had try out the mechanical LTWOO graevel 1X12 set that TraceVelo loved.
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Considering I can probably get into Sram Rival AXS for around $900.00 +/- not sure that I'd want to take the chance on a cheaper chinese electro set. I would on the other had try out the mechanical LTWOO graevel 1X12 set that TraceVelo loved.
If we're comparing against SRAM, LTWOO's ERX is actually lighter than even SRAM Force for the same parts.
https://www.pandapodium.cc/2023/04/30/shimano-105-di2-killer-l-twoo-erx-groupset-first-look/ (https://www.pandapodium.cc/2023/04/30/shimano-105-di2-killer-l-twoo-erx-groupset-first-look/)
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Yea, it's so cheap that it's worth a try. The review of ChinaCycling does look good to me. Interestingly, on his reviews on the china bike show he mentioned that it is good to wait for the second version of a groupset. In general, the manufacturers tend to rule out the problems of the first version.
I'm also wondering, how are these groupsets patent wise? Are components illegal copies of other groupsets?
https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/ (https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/)
Shimano already sued Sensah awhile back. If there are any patent issues, I'm sure Shimano or SRAM would be taking legal action by now. I have no doubt they're watching LTwoo and Sensah with a microscope. The Chinese cycling industry is getting too big to ignore.
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Groupsets and wheels are the two things you really should not skimp on. Basically any moving or electronic components.
Framesets, handlebars/stem, saddles, and any other static parts can be had for cheap without really posing any risks to safety or reliability.
For me, it's the lack of availability to me that proposes the biggest risk.
If a Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo component on my bicycle fails, I can generally get a replacement same or next day, and in any event, it's unlikely to take longer than a week. For LTwoo/Sensah mechanical parts, the fact that they can be swapped out for SRAM/Shimano equivalents where required makes it a less scary proposition - a rear derailleur failure just means replacing it with a part from another brand.
With LTwoo electronic it's a very different story though - a failure is going to leave you waiting weeks for a replacement from China with no local alternative.
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https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/ (https://chinapatentstrategy.com/china-top-50-case-of-2019-how-a-functional-feature-is-construed-greatly-impacts-protection-scope-shimano-kk-v-sensah/)
Shimano already sued Sensah awhile back. If there are any patent issues, I'm sure Shimano or SRAM would be taking legal action by now. I have no doubt they're watching LTwoo and Sensah with a microscope. The Chinese cycling industry is getting too big to ignore.
Good to know. It is interesting that ChinaCycling started the PandaPodium website. It is a big move for the cycling industry, but he might end up being sued for reselling these products. I might try the electronic groupset one day. Buy it, before it's removed from the market lololol.
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Got quoted $559 for the eR9 group shipped to the US. Not terrible, but I’d probably wait still.
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I guess the saving grace of it being such a close to a 105 Di2 copy is that they've copied a time-proven design. It's not like they've created something from scratch leaving alot of room for error. My guess is that there may be problems with the app and firmware more than the physical units but that's just a guess. I'm also very interested in this but may wait for the second version, although er9 is tempting for the price
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
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At least for wired Di2, Shimano's patents can't have all that many years left.
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
That would be a great setup
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
I dunno about retail prices in the US. I can get a full 105 Di2 group for 1100 EUR in Europe. A Sram Rival AXS upgrade kit can actually be had for less than the LTWOO kit. So unless this comes down further in price, I would not take the chance.
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True, a complete 105 Di2 can be had for a little more than the LTWOO, not to mention that it's easier to get replacement parts if there's a problem with a bump or drop.
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I think I saw sellers on AliExpress offer full 105 di2 for around $1150 USD
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The LTwoo official store and the Ltwoo resellers have the ERX 2x12 and 2x11 groupsets for sale now. They all seemed to drop on AliExpress simultaneously.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480174918.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480174918.html)
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If you buy a sample directly from Alibaba (not aliexpress) you can get the ERX carbon set for ~610 USD shipped.
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I guess the saving grace of it being such a close to a 105 Di2 copy is that they've copied a time-proven design. It's not like they've created something from scratch leaving alot of room for error. My guess is that there may be problems with the app and firmware more than the physical units but that's just a guess. I'm also very interested in this but may wait for the second version, although er9 is tempting for the price
Problems with the app.
.. when my shimano di2 was brandnew I connected with the shimano app and guess what it did? It crashed the complete system, my bike "forgot" that it had any di2 component. Basically everything was dead. I could luckily solve the issue because the system was also trapped in the Bluetooth connection mode and the battery got empty over night... and after that everything was luckily fine again.
Issues with software and app are nothing the big brands are free of....
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I would also make sure LTWOO isn't shipping out pre-production models.
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Installation instructions for eRX:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaWp7IBWs7s
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Has anyone heard anything about external blips with ERX? Only the higher end SRAM and Shimano groupsets support them and for me this is one of the big advantages of electronic (being able to change gear on the holds or the drops).
So for me that would be a pretty big plus for ERX, the fact it supports 11 speed is also great (so can keep all my bikes using 11 speed components).
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You USA and EU folk seem to on good wicket on prices, 105 Di2 will set you back almost $2.5k AUD and SRAM AXS Rival even more. That's even if you can find stock. I haven't been trying to get hold of some SRAM AXS Rival shifters for 10 months now no joy. Second hand prices for some of this stuff is even higher than new, basically because no one has stock
$900AUD for LTWOO electronic is significantly less and potentially appealing.
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If you spec the ERX version to pair with Shimano Ultegra-level components (crank, chain, cassette, rotors) you are looking at around $1500 which is still cheaper than a complete 105 Di2 yet much lighter.
GC Performance latest video shows the ERX being comparable in weight to Sram eTap Red. And in general, Di2 is lighter than eTap.
Interesting in the video that the batteries inside the seat tube battery can be replaced. This is potentially quite a big plus. They look like AA batteries, so could be replaced out on the road if you forgot to charge/the world over.
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Interesting in the video that the batteries inside the seat tube battery can be replaced. This is potentially quite a big plus. They look like AA batteries, so could be replaced out on the road if you forgot to charge/the world over.
They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
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According to ltwoo store on AliExpress, it's 2x14500 batteries (similar size to AA but different voltage).
I bit the bullet and ordered the groupset off AliExpress, including shipping it :) was $611.50USD after a coupon (JUNE24OT for $24 off) and the sitewide sale on AliExpress
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They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
This store which I've bought from before, sells the ERX groupset without batteries. They said it'll ship faster without batteries, but they give a pretty detailed description on which ones to buy locally. I'm guessing you can put higher capacity batteries for longer usage.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html?)
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This store which I've bought from before, sells the ERX groupset without batteries. They said it'll ship faster without batteries, but they give a pretty detailed description on which ones to buy locally. I'm guessing you can put higher capacity batteries for longer usage.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805480272765.html?)
Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
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Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
Give it a try and order the wires from somewhere with a good return policy. LTwoo doesn't advertise their compatibilities with Shimano (like having the same shifter pull ratio).
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The battery thing has me intrigued
They supply the groupset with 2x 800mAh 3.7V 14500 batteries but you can find higher capacity offerings on the market like the 1250mAh 3.7V Vapcell F12 (https://www.vapcelltech.com/h-pd-183.html)
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Okay so without battery means you will still get the hollow tube shaped holder for actual batteries which are 14500 type. Any idea if the interface/wires are Shimano Di2 compatible, in case someone needs extra or longer ones? From the pictures the port does seem similar to Shimano's.
Trace Velo's youtube video of the Ltwoo RX (of which the ERX is the electronic version) says that (the RX at least) follows the shimano standard. So it's possible they would fit. At least the brake hoses, brake pads and brake parts can be interchanged with shimano parts. Personally I would swap out the brake calipers for shimano ones. The Ltwoo calipers are a slightly unusual shape to get around shimano patents and heavier as a result.
I saw a video with china cycling talking about Ltwoo, apparently it was set up by an ex-Sram engineer who then worked as a patent lawyer for 6 years so both knows sram tech well, their patents and how to get around them which I thought was quite interesting. The shifter hoods strongly resemble sram red shifters I think.
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They are probably 18650 batteries (just guessing). But still easy to find and cheap, so a big plus indeed.
14500 batteries https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
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Might consider buying since locally SRAM is more expensive, just wonder if it would work with Sram K7/Cranks/Chain because I wanted to go 10T
How is the crosscompatibility between Shimano/Sram, can this groupset work with any 12v K7 from them? Also its interesting that I could use the Shimano caliper instead of Ltwoo
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Is there any information regarding the application managing eR9/eRX and their functionalities? Something like SRAM’s "enhanced shift modes" (sequential or compensating) or Shimano’s syncroshift?
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Might consider buying since locally SRAM is more expensive, just wonder if it would work with Sram K7/Cranks/Chain because I wanted to go 10T
How is the crosscompatibility between Shimano/Sram, can this groupset work with any 12v K7 from them? Also its interesting that I could use the Shimano caliper instead of Ltwoo
Shimano's upcoming gravel Di2 is meant to be using micro spline hubs (to get 10T), so that might be a better option for those wanting 10T with ERX (use micro spline wheels and cassettes), as the chain spacing should be the same as standard Shimano HG (I believe XDR chains have slightly bigger gaps)
There are people on youtube that are using Shimano cassettes with AXS and the other way round. So I would have thought ERX would technically work with XDR cassettes, but there have been reports that the shifting isn't quite as good when mixing AXS with Di2 (12 speed).
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Shimano's upcoming gravel Di2 is meant to be using micro spline hubs (to get 10T), so that might be a better option for those wanting 10T with ERX (use micro spline wheels and cassettes), as the chain spacing should be the same as standard Shimano HG (I believe XDR chains have slightly bigger gaps)
There are people on youtube that are using Shimano cassettes with AXS and the other way round. So I would have thought ERX would technically work with XDR cassettes, but there have been reports that the shifting isn't quite as good when mixing AXS with Di2 (12 speed).
I was just watching a Eurobike video on Youtube (forget which. Peak Torque??) but the LTwoo stand has a bike with ERX on display for testing and it's set up with Force AXS crankset and cassette.
Shifting on my AXS setup with Force cassette is hardly better than with R7100 and R8100 cassettes. I notice the chain is more stable when back pedaling with the AXS chain and cassette, but difference in shifting performance while riding is negligible when compared to Shimano cassettes and KMC chain.
Front shifting was also pretty solid with Praxis chainrings no matter what chain I was using, again no worse than a full AXS setup. YMMV of course, but in my experience the whole Shimano and SRAM 12 speed incompatibility is heavily overblown. Not saying everyone should start mixing components and stop worrying about component wear immediately, but IME it's no big deal. The F/R derailleur setup is the most important part. Use what you want and set it up well, it will work. I even did a few miles on a cheap $45 Aliexpress 12 speed cassette and shifting was pretty damn good.
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Has anyone heard anything about external blips with ERX? Only the higher end SRAM and Shimano groupsets support them and for me this is one of the big advantages of electronic (being able to change gear on the holds or the drops).
So for me that would be a pretty big plus for ERX, the fact it supports 11 speed is also great (so can keep all my bikes using 11 speed components).
You can get wireless blips for the entire AXS range, I had some set up on my road bike with Rival shifters previously, they're now on my gravel bike mounted on TRP Hylex brake levers.
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Do we know the weight difference between ERX and ER9?
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Is it even possible to buy the ER9 groupset anywhere yet? Im not able to find it anywhere
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I doubt there will be er9. The erx is 11 or 12 speed. Pretty sure I saw the erx in aluminum. So that is probably all the options unless they add gravel/mtb derailleurs. Be sure to watch ltwoo setup video if you buy the erx. It will get you setup way faster than just guessing. The app also has the instruction manual.
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LTWOO eR9 vs eRX weights: 55g difference (same FD & battery, 20g per shifter, 15g on RD)
Given the eR9 is materially cheaper (c.150 USD difference, which is %age terms is an enormous difference), it makes more sense.
For comparison, the weight diff between a good unbranded Chinese crankset & the carbon ones Trace Velo reviewed is about 225g for 75 USD extra.
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Seen gc performance erx update and teaser of the winspace agile.
So the erx is sleeping @15 secs. With no movement(vibration) of the rear derailleur. It seems sensitive to quickly turn back on. I guess with smooth enough roads it's possible the derailleur could turn off and you can't shift. I wonder how it acts going uphill. When going slow and not that much vibration happening will you get stuck in a gear. Basically any stop would be enough for sleep. I wonder how he was getting no front shifts but the rear was working.
As of Firmware 0.0.6
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Exactly. To top it off both full 105 Di2 and Rival etap AXS full groupsets are better value at this point.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Almost same situation in EU. SRAM Rival is at same price than LTWOO, and Force a little bit higher. For me, no cost/risk option going for LTWOO, and at it first batch.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
Thanks for the heads up pat! just got the SRAM Force with a 15% discount.
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Amazon (USA) is selling SRAM Force eTap groupsets on sale for around $800.
Levers, calipers, pre-bled hoses, both derailleurs, a set of rotors, 2 batteries, AND charger. All you need to buy is a crank, chain, and cassette.
This is a no brainer...
I don't like Sram at all. Starts with the D.O.T continues with the individual battery approach and most importantly don't like the shifting logic,... what you account as no brainer is therfore personal... ;D
But in general you're right , the ltwoo is currently too expensive compared to shimano and sram regarding the unknown reliability.
But give it some time.. maybe they will make a good job. The shifting with new components was very nice..i had the chance to test it on a powertrainer.
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Both Shimano Ultegra mechanical shifting groupsets R8000 (rim brake) and R8020 (hydraulic) are still tremendous values even till this day. 3 of my bikes still run Ultegra R8020, and the gear shifts are just as fast and reliable as electronic groupsets even after several thousands of miles.
Obviously having to route four cables internally is a pain, which is almost worth the electronic upgrade alone. It just seems like until LTWOO/Sensai can offer a mechanical groupset that matches the refinement of Ultegra mechanical...making the quick jump to electronic is a difficult ask for early adopters.
I still want one though, as it would make for good YouTube content ;D
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For those of us in Europe, what "deals" can you find on branded groupsets at the moment?
The eR9 retails for 3500 CNY, that's 485 $ or EUR 445.
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Did you add the VAT and inport tax to the price of Ltwoo?
Rival 1 AXS kit can be found under 700€. 2x set up is more expensive at 800-ish, 105 upgrade kit is a grand. Meanwhile, the only electric ltwoo listing I saw on Ali was over 800.
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Did you add the VAT and inport tax to the price of Ltwoo?
Rival 1 AXS kit can be found under 700€. 2x set up is more expensive at 800-ish, 105 upgrade kit is a grand. Meanwhile, the only electric ltwoo listing I saw on Ali was over 800.
Interesting. Where can you find the 2x @800 ish?
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Not sure if it is older version or something, but here's one https://www.bike24.com/p2313768.html?menu=1000,1868,1969. Granted, it doesn't include crankset, cassette and chain, but upgrade kits are pretty barebone.
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Not sure if it is older version or something, but here's one https://www.bike24.com/p2313768.html?menu=1000,1868,1969. Granted, it doesn't include crankset, cassette and chain, but upgrade kits are pretty barebone.
Thanks! Not bad at all indeed!
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I've been following this closely for an upcoming build. In Australia it's not so clear cut: Ali has the ltwoo erx (effectively and upgrade kit) for like 1100aud (shipped with gst). Best local retailer (bikebug) has rival at 2k+ (for upgrade bits and pieces) and 105 as not much better. Looking at our prices - maybe I'm wrong - but I think we're getting ltwoo a little cheaper, but sram/shim much much more expensive.
That all being said, there's a reputable seeming seller on Ali able to ship a 105 di2 full set for 1400ish, which is a fair bargain.
I am waiting to see what prices look like for the er9.
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PSA: Please please please don't buy this groupset if you're price conscious and can't afford to write the purchase off. This is not the product for someone who simply wants something that 'just works' and can't stomach the pain when something goes wrong. The software is barely 1st gen, as is the hardware and everything is subject to change in later revisions/generations. I'm excited in the eRX because the underlying foundation could truly shake up the industry but evidently there is still much to improve.
By the way, zero proper reviews exist on the Chinese side of the internet as everyone there is waiting for someone else to take the risk. Just this week someone posted about aftermarket DM hanger clearance issues (https://tieba.baidu.com/p/8442555070?pn=2). Again, don't be a guinea pig.
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PSA: Please please please don't buy this groupset if you're price conscious and can't afford to write the purchase off. This is not the product for someone who simply wants something that 'just works' and can't stomach the pain when something goes wrong. The software is barely 1st gen, as is the hardware and everything is subject to change in later revisions/generations. I'm excited in the eRX because the underlying foundation could truly shake up the industry but evidently there is still much to improve.
By the way, zero proper reviews exist on the Chinese side of the internet as everyone there is waiting for someone else to take the risk. Just this week someone posted about aftermarket DM hanger clearance issues (https://tieba.baidu.com/p/8442555070?pn=2). Again, don't be a guinea pig.
Well said. We're no longer talking about a 150 € groupset like the Sensah stuff a few years back. If it did not work, it was a small price to pay and you moved on (I was in that situation). But the price of these new groupsets is just too much to gamble with...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srxd3ibUoDU
One of the first builds I've seen with it
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Almost same situation in EU. SRAM Rival is at same price than LTWOO, and Force a little bit higher. For me, no cost/risk option going for LTWOO, and at it first batch.
I don't know if it is because I'm searching from Denmark but I can't seem to find either 105 di2 or Rival eTap AXS for nearly as little as you seem to be able to. Can you or someone else perhaps provide a link or just a site name for deals with either of the two here in the EU?
The best deals I've found so far are:
Full 105 di2 for 1150€ on bike-discount.de.
Full Rival eTap AXS (excl. rotors and BB) for 1260€ on bike-components.de
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I don't know if it is because I'm searching from Denmark but I can't seem to find either 105 di2 or Rival eTap AXS for nearly as little as you seem to be able to. Can you or someone else perhaps provide a link or just a site name for deals with either of the two here in the EU?
The best deals I've found so far are:
Full 105 di2 for 1150€ on bike-discount.de.
Full Rival eTap AXS (excl. rotors and BB) for 1260€ on bike-components.de
You have to buy it separately:
Shifters and calipers :
(Right):
https://www.alltricks.es/F-302180-freins-complets-hydrauliques-route/P-1884624-freno_de_disco_trasero_hidraulico_sram_rival_etap_axs__sin_disco?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDhdlh1gZcyl_o4LK8vO_ByIk1BDZv0NLEC8jihSUFadaE-tNkXMSToaArpGEALw_wcB
(Left):
https://www.alltricks.es/F-302180-freins-complets-hydrauliques-route/P-1885058-freno_de_disco_hidraulico_delantero_sram_rival_etap_axs__sin_disco?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDi56DIXYWTw2O4-wX6Dfwfr0TnnXgFn4YxjFXcuzlI7Zul0xnTdYUgaArqQEALw_wcB
RD:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-32741-derailleurs-arriere/P-1885162-cambio_trasero_sram_rival_etap_axs_12v__sin_bateria
FD:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-32741-derailleurs-arriere/P-1913967-desviador_delantero_de_soldadura_sram_rival_wide_etap_axs_d1__sin_bateria
Batteries:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-46290-pieces-transmission/P-254293-bateria_sram_etap_axs__red_force_rival_xx_x0_gx_reverb
Charger:
https://www.alltricks.es/F-46290-pieces-transmission/P-337106-sram_etap_battery_charger_and_cord?utm_source=effiliation&utm_medium=cpa&utm_campaign=315029215&utm_term=1395062255&eff_cpt=22332675&eff_sub1=globerada_css-64b3c5e280daf&eff_sub2=Cj0KCQjwqs6lBhCxARIsAG8YcDj_Sl2-nAkobxo5HwlJrDonUckSI7uydhEA1I7ig2AF7yvEWoZdrgcaAsKgEALw_wcB
You got the ER9 comparable groupset for EUR 780.
You can add Cassette for 100, Chain for 25 and crankset for 90, rotors for 80 and got the full system for less than you found.
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The retail price for the er9 is under 500 USD without shipping. They will start selling them in the coming weeks I'm told. Should mean 600 shipped to most jurisdictions at most. I plan to buy several in the coming weeks.
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trace velo video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJR-JQgZoXk
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Sounds like Ltwoo is getting there. If panda podium starts selling the set, then I think that's a pretty good endorsement. That being said, the price seems bit too high still for me.
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Its really interesting to view this in terms of the market. For all the places Chinese brands have been able to make inroads it's interesting that folks draw the line here. Basically if it's something that will need continued support and development.... no thanks. Heck even a mechanical Chinese groupset might not be worth it to someone who has a bike shop do their work. They might not touch it. Definitely some things to think about.
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youtube channel tracevelo put out a review of the groupset over the weekend.
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I might skip the ERX, but I do like the idea of the ER9 1x setup. Plus going LTwoo electronic solves my issue with LTwoo mechanical and it's the terrible ergonomics with the thumb shifters. I also like the change to the shadow style rear derailleur (hopefully the ER9 does the same) and the replaceable rechargeable batteries. If anything, I think there's a proven track record with Chinese manufactured electronics. Going electronic would probably be more reliable than staying mechanical in the long run.
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Have they said whether the eRX has satellite ports? I’m guessing no. Maybe for the second gen. For me, that’s one of the huge benefits of electronic shifting. And a prerequisite for me to upgrade at this point.
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Have they said whether the eRX has satellite ports? I’m guessing no. Maybe for the second gen. For me, that’s one of the huge benefits of electronic shifting. And a prerequisite for me to upgrade at this point.
I second that. If electronic shifting didn't have the advantage of being able to have the satellite shifters I'd just go for much cheaper mechanical. If you're a racer it's super nice to have them in the sprints.
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Looks like there is a manual trim mode following removal of the auto-trim:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rFF1nYUEdJs
Also this user reports no issues with sleep mode after 2 weeks, so it seems that issue may be fixed too.
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Has anyone tested clearance for gravel in both tires and cassettes?
Does it take a 11-40? 11-42? 45mm tire?
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Took a gamble on this groupset and it's been stellar. Rode around 200 miles so far on the 11s settings and everything has been crisp. Only issue I had were some cosmetic blemishes on the rear derailleur near one of the screws.
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Has anyone tested clearance for gravel in both tires and cassettes?
Does it take a 11-40? 11-42? 45mm tire?
Tires it'd be frame dependent.
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Tires it'd be frame dependent.
Of course it is but front mech also plays a role in tire clearance. Most road groupsets can't take more than ~42mm
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Tires it'd be frame dependent.
I'd be curious if you could use a hanger extender like a Wolftooth Roadlink? The ERX appears to use a similar shadow style hanger setup now, so it could be possible push the RD to clear an 11-40t if it fits.
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I'd be curious if you could use a hanger extender like a Wolftooth Roadlink? The ERX appears to use a similar shadow style hanger setup now, so it could be possible push the RD to clear an 11-40t if it fits.
I'll be able to report on that towards the end of the year, it's a setup i plan to run with the er9.
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ERX review video in Chinese here:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1GN411Y7Ar/
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I'll be able to report on that towards the end of the year, it's a setup i plan to run with the er9.
[/quote
Anyone know how far away the ER9 is from being released?
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I seem to have read that the maximum rear sprocket for this group is 32 teeth, but some sellers on Ali are packaging it with an 11-34 cassette. Does anyone have any more information or practical experience with this?
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I seem to have read that the maximum rear sprocket for this group is 32 teeth, but some sellers on Ali are packaging it with an 11-34 cassette. Does anyone have any more information or practical experience with this?
I seem to recall from one of the first videos about RX hydro that it was officially max 32T but that they had people on 36T no problem. It's probably the exact same cage for eRX.
It has to be true, 32T is just really bad in 2023. i'm confident it would take 36, but how much more can it take?
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
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That price point means things start to get more interesting - particularly when you consider that you could probably get cranks / cassette / chain / rotors for around $200 extra. I look forward to seeing some people get them in person.
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That price point means things start to get more interesting - particularly when you consider that you could probably get cranks / cassette / chain / rotors for around $200 extra. I look forward to seeing some people get them in person.
It will probably be quite a bit more than $200 to get the rest of the things you mentioned, unless you're going ultra budget. $400 seems more likely for quality parts. Still, it means that a quality groupset can be had for under $1000 if LTWOO turns out to be reliable. Time will tell.
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I'm still not a buyer of LTWOO er products without remote shifters, though.
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
Get this thing at $499 with free shipping and they'll sell like hotcakes.
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It will probably be quite a bit more than $200 to get the rest of the things you mentioned, unless you're going ultra budget. $400 seems more likely for quality parts. Still, it means that a quality groupset can be had for under $1000 if LTWOO turns out to be reliable. Time will tell.
I just made an AliExpress cart of:
- Senicx PR2 DUB crank (to avoid 24mm alloy axles)
- Shimano M6100 chain
- ZTTO 12S 11-34 cassette
- 2x IIIPro centrelock rotors 160mm
And that came to 220 AUD (150 USD). I accept that there are likely higher quality options out there, but I would think that this presents a decent level of quality for Chinese products. You could even change to a Shimano 105 cassette as well and still be within budget.
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The LTWOO er9 is now available on aliexpress. Its price is listed at $565 without the box. Not too bad. Curious to see the weight.
eR9 without box or battery is $514 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
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eR9 without box or battery is $514 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005666489670.html
How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
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How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
It shows up as £415 inc shipping for me, which is a very tempting price. As a comparison, 105 R7020 full groupset is £440 in the UK.
I would double check which currency/location you have selected.
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How? $617 with $64 shipping for me
The 514 is excl. Vat and tax. So it will get quite a bit more expensive in the EU indeed...
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The only difference between the ER9 and ERX is basically the carbon shifters and a carbon cage? If that's the case, you can pocket the difference and find other areas to cut weight on the bike. Also does anyone know if you can swap the pulley cage for an OSPW on the ERX rear derailleur?
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I DM'd the Aliexpress store rep and they weighed two sets for me.
1510g for eR9
1500g for eRX
note he has all the packaging and cables on the scale + caveats about scale calibration.
Interestingly this would mean that the price difference between eR9 and eRX is essentially a CarbonFiber tax.
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Absolutely no way the difference is only 10 grams. Wasn't there 90 grams of difference between RX and R9 (non electronic)?
Carbon tax is a thing but if there is so little difference I don't see anyone informed buying ERX again. The seller must have forgotten the battery or something
Somebody had a concern for ER9 being software locked to 11 speed, was it confirmed it can do 11 and 12 speed?
Also, why is this thread in the Road bike section when the R9/RX thread is in the components section?
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i think i posted on this thread before the weight difference. Marketing materials from L-twoo attached.
Er9 is not locked to 11s.
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i think i posted on this thread before the weight difference. Marketing materials from L-twoo attached.
Er9 is not locked to 11s.
55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
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55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
And more risk of the levers braking when you fall...
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55g difference between the two... not much in it.
Looks like the exact same components - material change for levers and cage.
55g only? For the money saved, you can cut weight on other aspects of your bike (saddle, titanium bolts, bottle cages, drop bars, etc.) Though I have to admit, carbon levers feel nice.
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I pulled the trigger and ordered eR9. Along with many of you, I agree that $150 might not be worth the ~55g weight reduction. I can easily save that weight from other reasonable components. Including tax and Aliexpress coupon code, I got the set for ~$530, which makes things very interesting. I plan on staying on 11 speed so that I don't have to upgrade my relatively new cassette(s) that I bought for my bike and trainer.
I have to admit that the price of 105 Di2 is also very tempting. I had seen listing on Aliexpress ~$850 for an almost complete groupset (excluding rotors), which are no longer available. But accounting for shipping and tax, the overall upgrade cost for 105 Di2 is still much higher vs eR9, especially for someone like me who only needs to upgrade the shifter and derailleur combo.
I will try to give an update whenever I get them on my hands and do some testing. I am now eagerly waiting for them to arrive and install them on my bike.
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
Just thinking aloud here
Firmware permitting, you could pair a Rotor 10-36T 13s cassette (designed for KMC X12 chain) with 46/36 CX chainrings (https://www.bike24.com/p2233000.html) to hodgepodge yourself a 2x13 setup
The 32T advertised max RD handles 34T just fine so 36T isn't out of the question, especially with the help of a RoadLink DM (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink-dm)
The cassette itself is the same as Rotor's 11-36T 12s cassette but with an extra 10T and needs to be mounted on its own proprietary hub (basically an extended HG)
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Just thinking aloud here
Firmware permitting, you could pair a Rotor 10-36T 13s cassette (designed for KMC X12 chain) with 46/36 CX chainrings (https://www.bike24.com/p2233000.html) to hodgepodge yourself a 2x13 setup
The 32T advertised max RD handles 34T just fine so 36T isn't out of the question, especially with the help of a RoadLink DM (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink-dm)
The cassette itself is the same as Rotor's 11-36T 12s cassette but with an extra 10T and needs to be mounted on its own proprietary hub (basically an extended HG)
Wouldn't the firmware still need to be programmed to shift 13 cogs? It almost seems more feasible to use either an 11 or 12 speed 11-36t cassette. If 10 speed is doable as well, there are plenty of 11-36t options from Shimano, Sunrace and even Microshift. Unless you really want 13 speeds for more cadence options? Also has anyone been able to confirm if Roadlinks would fit on the ERX/9 RD?
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It's very much a hypothetical situation, but which other groupset maker would dare to experiment with 2x13 function if not L-TWOO? the big boys are more known for removing (https://fitwerx.com/converting-shimano-ultegra-6770-di2-to-11-speed/) functionality as opposed to adding
Another cassette option could involve taking a Shimano 11-34T 12s and slotting a Y0MV16100 16T and Y0MV40021 (https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-CS-R9200-4808.pdf) or Y0NR00200 (https://si.shimano.com/ko/pdfs/ev/CS-R8100-4861/EV-CS-R8100-4861A.pdf) Spacer B between the 15T and 17T cogs, but I doubt it'd work right with the Rotor hub
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Has anyone noticed that the iOS app changelog states that they added 10-12speed fonction to eRX?
It would become a very interesting option for those with a itch to upgrade to electronic+hydro but who are happy with their 10sp groupset.
I contacted LTWOO about the 10speed function and they tell me 10speed is not supported. Not sure why the iOS changelog mentioned this
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can someone clarify which is the biggest gear range ERX can take? And does it work with any crankset/K7 combo?
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Anyone tried it with Magura or Shimano calipers yet?
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can someone clarify which is the biggest gear range ERX can take? And does it work with any crankset/K7 combo?
RD. LTWOO on their YT channel clearly said it's max 32T at the back, but some claim it can do 34T. I plan to test a range extender on the ER9, I'll report in a few months.
FD. The FD has a capacity of 16T as per their own marketing materials. "Max gear range 56T", whatever that means.
I think it can work with any crankset k7 combo, largely because they dont make their own so it's got to.
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Has anyone been curious to run Sram gearing on this group? I’m curious how the 10-x cassette would perform with a 50/37 or running 52/36,53/39…
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Quick update for those who are curious about eR9. I ordered no box and no battery. The package itself is well done.
I have bad news and good news. Let me start with the bad news to get it over with. After lots of debugging, I found out that one of the cables (short one for FD) is faulty. Initially, the front derailleur (FD) intermittently stops working and I thought it was the FD that was faulty. It turned out, connecting that cable to the rear derailleur gives the same problem, and so I concluded that it was the cable. I have contacted LTWOO store from which I bought the set and now waiting for a response.
The good news is all other components are really well-built. I was really impressed. The small hood size feels amazing on the hand. Buttons are very clicky and feel solid. The shape and reach of the levers are just perfect for the size of my hand and fingers. The texture of the rubber hood feels slightly different from Shimano, feels a little less smooth, but I like it. Since rear derailleur is fine, it shifts quickly and there is barely any noticeable delay from the moment the button is pressed to the shift. I can confirm that the trim option is there, but no auto-trimming (they removed this for patent reason).
I can also confirm that LTWOO has now enabled 10 speed option on the application. The eR9 set came out to be just slightly lighter than the quoted weight by LTWOO. See the breakdown below.
I have not installed the set on the bike yet. I was bummed that a single cable prevents me testing them on the road. This will have to wait a little while.
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Great to hear. Pity about the cable - should be an easy fix right?
Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
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Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
Yes
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Great to hear. Pity about the cable - should be an easy fix right?
Is the rear mech cage removable on the Er9? Can it be swapped out?
It's good to know that LTWOO has been responsive and will be sending new cable soon. Based on their chat, they may also be sending a new front derailleur for a good measure, so that is good. This should indeed be a quick fix. I only wished the cable is not proprietary and can be found anywhere. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with Di2 either.
The cage is indeed removable, but not quite sure if it is compatible with Shimano-compatible cages. Looking from the design, it looks like it. Don't quote me on that though. Will have to check again.
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it is not compatible with Di2 either.
Patent, almost for sure. It's not in LTWOO's interest to design proprietary stuff.
Shimano & SRAM have been locking innovations / competition via their patents for years, it's essentially patent trolling at this stage.
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It's good to know that LTWOO has been responsive and will be sending new cable soon. Based on their chat, they may also be sending a new front derailleur for a good measure, so that is good. This should indeed be a quick fix. I only wished the cable is not proprietary and can be found anywhere. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with Di2 either.
The cage is indeed removable, but not quite sure if it is compatible with Shimano-compatible cages. Looking from the design, it looks like it. Don't quote me on that though. Will have to check again.
were the cables fully plugged in like how those dream builders use a tweezer to push the cables into the derailleurs?
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A review from GC Performance. On the whole, pretty good apart from initial battery issues (now fixed).
https://youtu.be/h2PbzMyeUzA?si=_yK2JAWeyxlnuHzP
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this guy compared the shifting of Ltwoo ERX vs Dura Ace
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DAdTseyjxk
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Hi all, Im having issues whit the erx rear derailur. The derailur recognizes 11 gear as 1 gear, this means that I am not able to shift up from 11 gear to 1 gear. I have tried to reset to factory settings whit no help.
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https://youtu.be/Di0D_2SENxs?si=iFIInItlrhTJtqbZ
Yikes...
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https://youtu.be/Di0D_2SENxs?si=iFIInItlrhTJtqbZ
Yikes...
Looks like I'll be going mechanical 105 or Ultegra for the meantime lol
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
He has in the past, at least twice reported about issues that were his fault before reaching out to the brand and figuring it out... Quite sad but it reflects the average user experience.
I'm still leaning more and more towards ER9 instead of 105 for my next build, even at equal pricepoint
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I'm still leaning more and more towards ER9 instead of 105 for my next build, even at equal pricepoint
Same here. I was so hoping that er9 would be as good as it seemed. These issues make me hesitate a bit but I still I'm gonna give it a go. Let alone the fact that I can reuse my 11sp components for now. I don’t need to upgrade to 12sp like with Shimano. I don’t need to use proprietary flat top chains like with Sram. I can fine trim the LTWOO RD to work perfectly with whatever cassette. All this makes it very tempting.
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While I enjoy Luke's channel, a lot of his bike issues are from user error. He's pretty much the average Joe with a YT channel when it comes to bike assembly.
He did fray his own battery connector!
YouTuber Peak Torque recently gave me this advice: Don't make YouTube your only or primary source of income.
When you start relying on YouTube to pay your bills, it's almost impossible to be completely unbiased. And you have the potential to start rushing out videos without doing your due diligence. Case in point.
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Love me a bit of YouTuber jealousy/rivalry! Keep it comin'!
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YouTube or traditional cycling media, anything but a long term review can only ever show part of the full picture and should be treated as such. But I agree that especially YouTubers tend to get prematurely overexcited when receiving a product for review. And the need to put out as much content as possible certainly doesn’t help I imagine.
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I have had a complete nightmare with the eRX groupset. Managed to get the grand total of 1 mile on it before the rear derailleur stopped working, not a problem as these things happen. Dealing with L-TWOO support is another matter... You basically get a small window of around 5 to 10 mins at around 8AM UK time where they read and may reply to your message and then that's it, they are gone for another 24h. It's taken 6 weeks to get them to agree to send me a replacement rear derailleur. In that time I have ordered a 105 Di2 groupset from China, waited for delivery, uninstalled the eRX and installed the Di2 and ridden 120km.
Cannot recommend, the replacement still isn't here
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
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So sorry to read about your plight. It seems to be a common theme for the erx/er9 groupset. Shame really. Shame on ltwoo.
I think it points to a lack of testing, there’s clearly issues with this group set and at almost the same price as 105 Di2 it’s honestly pretty disappointing. I was willing to give them a go but once bitten twice shy. I won’t be installing this group set so it was just a waste of £600 ish.
I have a small ish (11k subs) non-cycling YouTube channel and I was really tempted to blast them on it as I was seeing positive reviews from the likes of Tracevelo and Kline concept which was completely at odds with my experiences but in the end I decided I just wanted to ride my new bike and couldn’t be bothered with the drama.
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
my thoughts exactly. i was so close to pulling the trigger on er9 and mix/match it with some other stuff i had lying around, but after a bit more reading these bad reports on here and on a few more english and german forums, instead decided to go down a di2 105/ultegra frankengroup route.
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All these bad reports are really starting to tarnish LTwoo's reputation and is probably inadvertently affecting other Chinese groupset manufacturers (like Sensah). If anything they should be wooing the hardcore cycling enthusiast market, but it seems like they're just pissing everyone off who really wants to give them a chance.
I think thats a bit too far. L-Twoo has generally made good stuff; I don't think one bad product, especially one at the bleeding edge of bike tech, throws all that away.
I'm personally still not quite sold on electronic groupsets. Yes it's more annoying to get mechanical stuff setup right but it seems a lot more failproof.
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Wasn't di2 introduced like 15 years ago? Not exactly bleeding edge lol.
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Just saying you can get Shimano 105 di2 with cransket, chain and cassette for 768€ here: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Groupset-2x12-34-50-p88663/
So maybe 100€ difference with LTWOO tax included.
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True. But one of the key selling points of LTWOO er9 for me is the flexibility it offers. I wouldn't have to upgrade my drivetrain components. I keep my lightweight 11sp cassette. I keep my chain. I keep my powermeter crankset and I only upgrade to electronic shifting. In my country, the cheapest offer for LTWOO er9 is 460 EUR. Nothing else can match that.
105 Di2 at that kind of discount is tempting, but I'd have to upgrade to 12speed and downgrade some of my drivetrain components.
There's also super cheap offers for Sram Force etap upgrade kits. But again, I'm stuck with 12 speed, I need a different freehub body, different cassette, different chain, different chainrings. So all in all these options are always significantly more expensive.
If you build a bike from scratch and have no other components lying around, I agree that LTWOO is a lot less tempting, however.
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Just saying you can get Shimano 105 di2 with cransket, chain and cassette for 768€ here: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/105-Di2-R7150-Groupset-2x12-34-50-p88663/
So maybe 100€ difference with LTWOO tax included.
That's a nice deal (although shows up as roughly 850€, prob duo to vat difference?), I guess they have a sale because of mechanical 105 launch (which is now more expensive than Di2 counterpart).
However - lack of choice is sad. No option for 52/36 chainrings or 165mm crank arms. Buying a new crank and selling this one will result in additional cost, buying parts separately is more expensive as well
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True. But one of the key selling points of LTWOO er9 for me is the flexibility it offers. I wouldn't have to upgrade my drivetrain components. I keep my lightweight 11sp cassette. I keep my chain. I keep my powermeter crankset and I only upgrade to electronic shifting. In my country, the cheapest offer for LTWOO er9 is 460 EUR. Nothing else can match that.
105 Di2 at that kind of discount is tempting, but I'd have to upgrade to 12speed and downgrade some of my drivetrain components.
There's also super cheap offers for Sram Force etap upgrade kits. But again, I'm stuck with 12 speed, I need a different freehub body, different cassette, different chain, different chainrings. So all in all these options are always significantly more expensive.
If you build a bike from scratch and have no other components lying around, I agree that LTWOO is a lot less tempting, however.
Do you really need a new freehub for 12 speed? I thought the cassette was compatible with HG L.
I would pay slightly more for reliability per discount. Especially as you can buy replacement part easily from shimano.
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That's a nice deal (although shows up as roughly 850€, prob duo to vat difference?), I guess they have a sale because of mechanical 105 launch (which is now more expensive than Di2 counterpart).
However - lack of choice is sad. No option for 52/36 chainrings or 165mm crank arms. Buying a new crank and selling this one will result in additional cost, buying parts separately is more expensive as well
A Shimano 105 crankset is around 110€. I guess you could call this a customization premium, and it is probably only a matter of time before the price decrease further xD.
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Do you really need a new freehub for 12 speed? I thought the cassette was compatible with HG L.
I would pay slightly more for reliability per discount. Especially as you can buy replacement part easily from shimano.
You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
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You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
surprisingly you also need a 12speed cassette! :o :o :o :o
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
Yea I have zero appetite to go 12 speed. 11 speed works fine for me, has more choice and costs less. If I ever go electronic it will be used R8070.
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Seems like proper timing for this podcast from China Cycling to pop-up:
https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1 (https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1)
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Seems like proper timing for this podcast from China Cycling to pop-up:
https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1 (https://youtu.be/2kGWqQGtsxk?si=KCgoLO-0O4nLZps1)
Somewhat solidify my choice of getting mechanical for my upcoming build lol.
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I think that LTWOO electronic WILL be a good option. Not today, may be in 2 years.
I just love SRAM's AXS, and the price AND performance must be very tempting to make me jump from this wagon.
You need a new freehub for Sram cassettes is what I meant. With Shimano, you „only“ need to upgrade everything to 12sp. Still, either option requires you to buy many more components than just shifters, brakes and derailleurs.
Not strictly necessary. You can run a Shimano 12s (HG body) with SRAM AXS (I use that combo on the trainer). The issue is that you loss the 10t smallest cog (XDR is mandatory). Not a problem in the trainer, but could be an issue on road, with 46T or 48T big chainring.
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With everyone going 12 speed and electronic, I've noticed an uptick of 11 speed Ultegra/105/GRX hydraulic shifters being sold. I already put a few bids on some shifters. After hearing all the mixed reports about LTwoo, and the fact I don't feel like buying new cranks/chains/cassettes, staying 11 speed mechanical doesn't sound like such a bad idea!
Yes, there is some nice stuff for sale on second hand sites... And most of it is taken really good care off.
The last Ultegra 11sp set I bought cost me 230 for shifters / FD / RD and cassette. Add 95€ for 2 new callipers, 45 for cables and chain and you have a nice set for 370. Add a nice Ali crank for 70€ and you have a total of 440€ (or get a second hand Ultegra crank for 120€).
If you build a bike like this you can have a 7,3kg bike for less than 2.000€
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Yes, there is some nice stuff for sale on second hand sites... And most of it is taken really good care off.
The last Ultegra 11sp set I bought cost me 230 for shifters / FD / RD and cassette. Add 95€ for 2 new callipers, 45 for cables and chain and you have a nice set for 370. Add a nice Ali crank for 70€ and you have a total of 440€ (or get a second hand Ultegra crank for 120€).
If you build a bike like this you can have a 7,3kg bike for less than 2.000€
You get a new Shimano 105 11 speed for 522€ on Wiggle. It is a bit less of a hassle.
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You can run a Shimano 12s (HG body) with SRAM AXS (I use that combo on the trainer). The issue is that you loss the 10t smallest cog (XDR is mandatory). Not a problem in the trainer, but could be an issue on road, with 46T or 48T big chainring.
There is no HG 12sp cassette that is officially compatible with Sram road flattop chains, as far as I', aware. It's gonna work and it's gonna shift fine, I guess. But in theory the rollers and the ramping of the teeth don't fit together 100% resulting in accelerated wear. Most people seem to consider it a non issue, however.
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There is no HG 12sp cassette that is officially compatible with Sram road flattop chains, as far as I', aware. It's gonna work and it's gonna shift fine, I guess. But in theory the rollers and the ramping of the teeth don't fit together 100% resulting in accelerated wear. Most people seem to consider it a non issue, however.
Sram's own 11-44t XPLR cassette (HG freehub compatible) is officially compatible with flat top chain
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My take is that some of the criticism of Lwoo is unfair. Luke (trace Vello) admits that there was an issue with the trifox frame where the FD hangar was moving. How sure is he that the FD did not sustain damage due to this? The other issue is some persons are clearly purchasing a beta version. At the time of their purchase Ltwoo had not released hence it was not sold on their official page . Can Ltwoo be blamed for persons who were part of its beta testing, turning around and selling the product they were to test? There are simply too many variables, not being properly considered. I have 11 speed DI2 and I know there is an issue sometimes when you use the app, even after properly disconnecting, the gears won't shift. You cannot re-enter the app, because its now unable to see the device.. Took me awhile to figure out it still thinks its connected and I need to disconnect Bluetooth (Even Shimano released product has bugs)
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Sram's own 11-44t XPLR cassette (HG freehub compatible) is officially compatible with flat top chain
I haven’t made myself clear. I meant HG road cassettes which are officially compatible with flattop chains. Those don’t exist to my knowledge. But I’ll happily be corrected.
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My take is that some of the criticism of Lwoo is unfair. Luke (trace Vello) admits that there was an issue with the trifox frame where the FD hangar was moving. How sure is he that the FD did not sustain damage due to this? The other issue is some persons are clearly purchasing a beta version. At the time of their purchase Ltwoo had not released hence it was not sold on their official page . Can Ltwoo be blamed for persons who were part of its beta testing, turning around and selling the product they were to test? There are simply too many variables, not being properly considered. I have 11 speed DI2 and I know there is an issue sometimes when you use the app, even after properly disconnecting, the gears won't shift. You cannot re-enter the app, because its now unable to see the device.. Took me awhile to figure out it still thinks its connected and I need to disconnect Bluetooth (Even Shimano released product has bugs)
I am pretty sure in terms of timeline GC performance bought his after Ltwoo had announced but before they started selling from their official store. There should be a reasonable expectation that the product would be up to snuff at that point and that Ltwoo would try and control the sale of test units. I know Sram and Shimano have also had test units resold; but the communication that those were test units and asking for them back are the difference between how the different companies handle the situation.
Sram and Shimano also get criticized when their groups are used with non official components or are attached to frames that violate their published frame fit specs, which is why documentation is really important. Shimano does a meh job of this, but Ltwoo's is nonexistent. Those things should also include install documentation on how to prevent / minimize damage from moving or adjusting the front mech.
Additionally, I do think there is something to the somewhat charged language and frustration around customers being used as beta testers by these Chinese brands. They absolutely need a culture shift around their engineering to better test and validate their products. Ltwoo is just the latest in a long line of these kinds of issues. Other recent examples include Craft Racing and Elite's Drive wheels. I think this is problem with how their engineers are trained, but it needs to change if you want to build something as complex as an electronic groupset and win in the market.
There is so much potential here to build groupsets that can have profiles to run nearly any modern cassette offering up an expanded choice of drivetrain components, particularly for the 1x ERG where you have simplified the problem down to rear shifting. I only wish that group had a battery that was easier to access as well as a kit to allow for the compatibility with the accessory powerline from an e-bike battery.
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I haven’t made myself clear. I meant HG road cassettes which are officially compatible with flattop chains. Those don’t exist to my knowledge. But I’ll happily be corrected.
I run Shimano 12 speed road cassettes with SRAM eTap flattop chains on both my Yishun and VeloBuild CX frame. With HG hub laced wheels. Not a single issue ever.
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I run Shimano 12 speed road cassettes with SRAM eTap flattop chains on both my Yishun and VeloBuild CX frame. With HG hub laced wheels. Not a single issue ever.
Sure. All I’m saying is that in theory it should wear out faster. People who’ve tried both could answer if it actually does.
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Sure. All I’m saying is that in theory it should wear out faster. People who’ve tried both could answer if it actually does.
Yeah I've heard a couple of times this happening exactly. Usually with guys who produce a bit of power, so probably the weaker guys aren't experiencing it.
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Also does anyone know if you can swap the pulley cage for an OSPW on the ERX rear derailleur?
Anyone got insight on the spec for the pulley cage? Have a gruppo on the way and want to maybe swap an OSPW in as well.
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Alright! I think I can now give some thoughts on my eR9 experience. I have now ridden ~400 km over a few rides, one of which was a ~125km ride. I am now using my previous Shimano 11-speed cassette. I guess my take will be similar to what Trace Velo, China Cycling and GC Performance have said; when it works, it is amazing! Shift is smooth, especially when indexed properly. I don't have any issue shifting under load. Though I am only a 70kg rider with max power of ~950W.
So far, I have not had any issue with my unit, except the faulty cable, which LTWOO sent replacement part promptly. My interaction with LTWOO on Aliexpress has been non-optimal, because of the time zone difference and they seem to reply only at certain hours of the days. So, my suggestion if anyone is running into issues is to be precise, concise and easy to understand, as they seem to be using Aliexpress translator for the communication.
A couple of things that I noticed: while the manual trim works, there is no way to switch back to the non-trimmed position, unless you go to the next chainring and back. This should be easily fixed with a firmware update. Another thing I noticed was that battery life is not that great. From a full charge, I could only get ~400km. I am not sure if this is from the battery or just because it is the first battery cycle. I will have check for the next battery cycle.
Installation of the groupset cannot be any easier than installing Shimano Di2 as they are identical, even down to the mineral oil for the brake. The only difference is the way it is bled. LTWOO has another air outlet which should make it easier to bleed. As long as you follow the instructions that LTWOO has on YouTube, you’re good. The brake also feels amazing, I don’t notice any significant difference to modulation or stopping power to a similarly well-setup Shimano brakes.
Overall, I am happy with the groupset and I certainly hope this won’t change anytime soon.
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The "Official LTWOO Store" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO. This at least is what Joe from China Cycling said in the comments under his latest video on the whole LTWOO erx/er9 saga. So that might explain your experience with them somewhat. Just saying.
I'm not sure, but maybe it would actually be quicker and easier to file a warranty claim on the official LTWOO website? There is a section for that but that requires you to upload an invoice and enter a serial number. Not all units seem to actually have a serial number - the early ones in particular don't.
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It seems all the dead FD/RD issues with the ER9/ERX stems from the rain. LTwoo probably cut corners on weather sealing. Not sure I'd trust the new EGR especially since gravel will definitely see harsher terrain. Also that name doesn't roll off the tongue. E-GR. They should of called it the GR-E. I would just skip that groupset because it's annoying to pronounce! Haha
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The "Official LTWOO Store" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO. This at least is what Joe from China Cycling said in the comments under his latest video on the whole LTWOO erx/er9 saga. So that might explain your experience with them somewhat. Just saying.
I'm not sure, but maybe it would actually be quicker and easier to file a warranty claim on the official LTWOO website? There is a section for that but that requires you to upload an invoice and enter a serial number. Not all units seem to actually have a serial number - the early ones in particular don't.
Now it makes sense that the store said they have to "ask the factory" to send the replacement cable. I just hope I won't have to try the warranty claim anytime soon.
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Another masochist eR9 beta tester chiming in:
As with the user above I also had sub-optimal interactions with their customers service, with typically 1 business day gaps in the reply time, so getting a replacement part which I had damaged took a total of 5 days to be dispatched.
Regarding the shifting performance, it's quite good. A few rides so far and no missed shifts or issues with the groupset not waking up.
Shifting under load up to 200w is crisp and the app integration is very good. Being able to adjust each cassette and chainring offset through the app is fantastic for setup, during my first ride I was able to whip the phone out and fine tune the trim whilst riding.
Regarding the trim function, I'm not sure if it is a result of the latest update but you can now trim in both directions (however) the trim direction is not controlled by the user. Essentially whenever you hear front chain rub, pressing shift again will trim the FD if the system determines it needs trimming, and there seems to be several steps. I.e if I shift from the 11th cog to 9th there is a trim step, then 9th to 3rd it will trim again, then the same the other direction.
Install wise it was easy, not having to run gear shift cables saves some grey hairs especially if you're fully integrated. The YouTuber Klein concept has a solid 90min install video which walks through all the steps.
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Another masochist eR9 beta tester chiming in:
As with the user above I also had sub-optimal interactions with their customers service, with typically 1 business day gaps in the reply time, so getting a replacement part which I had damaged took a total of 5 days to be dispatched.
What was the part?
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So they replaced a part that you damaged? Sounds like they did more than they had to, right?
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What was the part?
I had gotten some debris stuck into the left shifter hydraulic system, essentially i accidentally turned the plastic line plug the wrong direction then couldn't get it out without using an extractor screw. Pretty big oopsie for a lapse of concentration :'(
I paid for the replacement part since it was my bad, so it's nothing special in terms of customer service.
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I can confirm with the latest firmware update, the trim options are now more refined. The front derailleur will decide the best trim position. I also noticed that they have fixed the incorrect gear selection showing up on Wahoo. It was showing 12 speed when in fact I was on 11 speed cassette. I cannot confirm if this is also fixed on any other head unit. It is still showing that the battery is low even when fully charged. Hopefully they will fix this on the next update. Well, it looks like LTWOO is certainly working on making the groupset better and better. Kudos to them!
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For those that have installed shifters, how do you get the rubber hood cover back far enough to get access to the tightening bolts?
Also if on carbon bars how much did you need to torque them to keep them in place?
Thanks
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For those that have installed shifters, how do you get the rubber hood cover back far enough to get access to the tightening bolts?
Also if on carbon bars how much did you need to torque them to keep them in place?
Thanks
I’ve only worked on the RX12 levers. With those, I pulled the hoods back from the front where you also have to access the bleed port anyway. They are pretty firm but it was possible.
Torque wise on the integrated handlebar of the VB-R099 I didn’t need to do them tighter than 4nm. That’s my usual go to for brake levers. I go up to 6nm if necessary but usually not past that. If needed, I sometimes use grippy tape like textile tape or stuff like that where the levers clamp. On my gravel bike that greatly helped stopping them from moving.
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I’ve only worked on the RX12 levers. With those, I pulled the hoods back from the front where you also have to access the bleed port anyway. They are pretty firm but it was possible.
Torque wise on the integrated handlebar of the VB-R099 I didn’t need to do them tighter than 4nm. That’s my usual go to for brake levers. I go up to 6nm if necessary but usually not past that. If needed, I sometimes use grippy tape like textile tape or stuff like that where the levers clamp. On my gravel bike that greatly helped stopping them from moving.
Not sure I'll be able to get them back far enough. And no idea on how I'll get torque wrench on. Thanks for suggestion re: tape. I think that will help.
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Do you have access to an extended 5mm hex key?
Definitely worth the investment just for doing up shifter bolts.
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Not sure I'll be able to get them back far enough. And no idea on how I'll get torque wrench on. Thanks for suggestion re: tape. I think that will help.
Yeah long bits are what you need.
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Get a long bit for your torque wrench
Gotcha. Thanks
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@Dmgreen13 get a torque bit extension bar(https://cdn.toptul.com/comm/upimage/p-161004-00158.jpg)
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@Dmgreen13 get a torque bit extension bar(https://cdn.toptul.com/comm/upimage/p-161004-00158.jpg)
I'm just not sure how I would get it under the hoods similar to Shimano shifters. I'll get one of these and play around with it on the weekend.
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Dmgreen13, push them in after pushing back the side of the hood the bolt is located(do not insert it from above, but the side) https://www.parktool.com/assets/img/repairhelp/lever_drop_1.jpg (https://www.parktool.com/assets/img/repairhelp/lever_drop_1.jpg)
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Received my er9 groupset in the mail today. After having built a bike with RX12, im particularly impressed with the finishing quality of the RD and FD. The surface finish is very nice. It seems a bit more polished than the RD and FD that come with the RX12 groupset.
The RD does have a serial number, so it seems it's one of the later units. Hopefully, it doesn't fail on me.
Still waiting on the frame that this is going on to. I'll post an update then.
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Received my er9 groupset in the mail today. After having built a bike with RX12, im particularly impressed with the finishing quality of the RD and FD. The surface finish is very nice. It seems a bit more polished than the RD and FD that come with the RX12 groupset.
The RD does have a serial number, so it seems it's one of the later units. Hopefully, it doesn't fail on me.
Still waiting on the frame that this is going on to. I'll post an update then.
Looking forward to your experience. I have mine on partially built frame so hoping to get it finished in the next week or so and to see how it performs. I did message LTwoo about warranty support after all the YouTube videos about it failing and had no reply whatsoever so that doesn't inspire much confidence.
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ER9 came today. Checked each part and they seem really good. No batteries yet so they are yet to be tested and even I ordered No Box, all items are wrapped up pretty good and they put a lot of bubble plastic wrap. Can't wait for Chinese holiday to finish so I can finally resume ordering the final piece which is the wheelset.
Question for those who ordered No Box/No Battery specification, what batteries did you buy for the derailleur battery? Do I need to buy rechargeable batteries?
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ER9 came today. Checked each part and they seem really good. No batteries yet so they are yet to be tested and even I ordered No Box, all items are wrapped up pretty good and they put a lot of bubble plastic wrap. Can't wait for Chinese holiday to finish so I can finally resume ordering the final piece which is the wheelset.
Question for those who ordered No Box/No Battery specification, what batteries did you buy for the derailleur battery? Do I need to buy rechargeable batteries?
You will need to buy: 14500 battery capacity: 800mAh, 3.7V, 2.96Wh.
I think eBay has them cheap...but not sure if you can use a flat top with the step.
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I bought these to have ready for when my set arrives:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBL-4-Pack-14500-3-7V-800mAh-Li-Ion-Rechargeable-Batteries/801688883
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Speaking of batteries, how tall is the LTwoo battery housing? I believe Shimano one is 18cm, wondering if LTwoo is any shorter.
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You will need to buy: 14500 battery capacity: 800mAh, 3.7V, 2.96Wh.
I think eBay has them cheap...but not sure if you can use a flat top with the step.
Flattop does not work
I know because i ordered a flat top set of batteries :)
you'll probably need to drop a fat drop of solder on the top or get 14500 batteries with nipples.
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Just received my eRX.
Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.
So far, everything really feels quality!
For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?
What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.
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Just received my eRX.
Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.
So far, everything really feels quality!
For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?
What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.
I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.
I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.
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I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.
I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.
That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.
I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.
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That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.
I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.
There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.
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There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.
Should have done the due diligence first - thanks for that!
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Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!
Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?
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Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!
Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?
No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.
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YOu can disconnect the brifters from the lines and no fluid will come out- just do it with the levers not installed on the bars so you can orient their position relative to the calipers and keep the connection pointed towards the ceiling as you disconnect. Removing the brake pads and putting in spacers is key as is not squeezing the lever when it's disconnected:)
Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.
Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it. Screw in finger tight.
Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid. Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly. Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.
Now comes the important part! It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes. The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system. Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel. Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension. Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.
Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper. Now undo the sryinge and you're done! Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps. Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).
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No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.
Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?
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Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?
Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil
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Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil
Nice, appreciate the insight!
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Was able to get everything installed - awaiting wheels to get everything positioned, but some notes on challenges I had:
- Obviously, use wrenches. I tried to use pliers because I was missing a 5mm wrench and it just made shit very hard, ended up actually backing the hose out of the olive while half-compressed and had to replace the olive.
- As a second-time hydraulic user - realized that BH90 and BH59 olives are the same, it's the needle that's different - needed to order some anyway, so now I have a full set of both lol.
- Also, even though L-twoo uses shimano-style mineral oilt and not DOT fluid, the caliper actually uses the sram-style, recessed-threaded adapter - so, my shimano bleed kit didn't do the job, had to get a new adapter to fit the caliper.
- Ended up completely draining the l-twoo oil from the rear brake through all of the hubbub, which, whatever.
- Once I actually had everything connected up, it was a fucking cakewalk - *really* love the air release in the brifter, makes topping off so easy.
I didn't introduce any air or lose any substantial fluid on the front brake, so I now have one fully bled and replaced (rear) brake with shimano mineral oil and one completely untouched l-twoo-filled (front) brake. Both feel the same, nice and responsive, smooth pull, clear stoppage at a similar travel and quick return.
Fun experience to learn by; the more I do these, the more I learn how to be tidy with the mineral oil, haha.
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Sorry if this question has been answered before but the search function didn’t help:
So which Shimano brake line standard dies LTWOO use? BH90 or BH59?
And: How exactly does the air screw in the brifter work?
Thanks!
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I bought BH59 and BH90 hardware, the BH59 needles are what matched what came with the gruppo.
In regards to the air screw: It's meant to be a "final top off" - kind of an escape valve to run a smidge more oil up and out of the line to be sure there's no air after closing the line off. They have a pretty good video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53qM8N8_hXQ)
They say explicitly not to mix the fluids - but I also watched the Klein Cycling installation and he fully used Shimano mineral oil (red) to top off the brifters - I bled my entire back line out and replaced with full red, so I'm not intermingling, but I don't think there's actually any harm/risk.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32UDzOrqK2)
Looks like Luke got to the bottom of his eRX issue.
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Looks like Luke got to the bottom of his eRX issue.
Not really, Luke found his FD issue was caused by his RD not behaving, (ie does not relay message to FD to shift).
Why his RD is not working properly is still a mystery. Does not appear to be water ingress or damage to RD. So Luke's theory is software/firmware issue.
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Well, right. I suppose ‘got to the bottom of’ was a poor choice. We’ll see how it holds up.
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Sorry if this question has been answered before but the search function didn’t help:
So which Shimano brake line standard dies LTWOO use? BH90 or BH59?
And: How exactly does the air screw in the brifter work?
Thanks!
Ltwoo told me BH59. I ordered some extra as I thought I'd stuff it up installing the brake lines bit miraculously didn't.
Bleeding the brakes was pretty painless following the LTwoo YouTube videos.
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Oi, yeah, you're right - I had it backwards, my bad!
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What chargers you guys use? I know the charging cables are included but I am worried about the power supply or if I just plug it in with phone charger it might die or something...
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Has anyone using eRX/er9 paired the system with a Hammerhead Karoo 2? Can't sort out the how of it all, hehe.
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What chargers you guys use? I know the charging cables are included but I am worried about the power supply or if I just plug it in with phone charger it might die or something...
I have just used standard phone charger with USB input.
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
Shrink wrap the 2 together?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
Can you show it via photo?
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
It was certainly a task for me as well - there is a pretty tight turn at the end of the dropout that makes getting the length of the hard plug end of the shifting cable through difficult.
I ended up going to other way - I ran the cable guide through with some thread tied to the end of it, tied the other end of the thread to the shifter plug that will go into the batter, and then softly finessed it down into the chainstay - the thread being much more able to maneuver the positioning of the cable - and then brought it through and fished it into the bottom bracket opening.
It was a small pain, but nothing substantial, to then plug the cable into the battery in the confines of the bottom bracket opening, but i was able to get it done and then turn the frame back upside and retrieve the battery for installation into the seattube.
What a night.
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
Do you have a link for the Er9 for 485eur? Thanks
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For those in EU who ordered ER9/ERX - ho3 much tax were you charged? ER9 is currently 485€ with coins, trying to figure out how much tax I'd have to pay (proper 21% or less/more?)
It will probably be more. There is the 21% VAT, there is import tax and the shipping company will want a nice fee...
Try to find a seller that has shipping with prepaid tax? That's almost always cheaper. I've not ordered big items without prepaid tax since they changed the rules in 2021...
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Do you have a link for the Er9 for 485eur? Thanks
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMUgGy2.
Once you go to check out it is around 510€, then another ~25€ discount from coins
It will probably be more. There is the 21% VAT, there is import tax and the shipping company will want a nice fee...
Try to find a seller that has shipping with prepaid tax? That's almost always cheaper. I've not ordered big items without prepaid tax since they changed the rules in 2021...
Yes, you should be right - total cost is around 30% in taxes, at least from my experience in ordering stuff back in the past. But checking reviews on Ali, it seems like people are sometimes charged with less money than they should be. I wonder if sellers just declare the value to be under 150€, but let you pay the customs yourself?
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn
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I cannot for the life of me get the RD cable through the chainstay. A cable housing is no problem. But the electronic cable plug is rather long and stiff and it seems there’s a bend in the cable entry port at the rear drop out that I just can’t get the plug to pass. What’s more is that my internal cabling tool is useless for this bc you can’t connect it to the electronic cable in any way. So I keep taping it to shift cable housing and try to pull it through from both ends. But no success. It tears off every time.
Any tips?
I managed to get it through. In the end it was the frame's fault really. There was some sharpish edge preventing it to go through. I rolled some very coarse sandpaper into a longish roll and inserted it like a small file and sanded it smooth. After that, I managed to pull it through upon the first try.
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I too fell into the trap of ordering flat top batteries. I can confirm that they don't work. They just about do not make contact with the pins in the battery holder. Hence, no power.
Apart from that I connected the groupset with the charger. It powered up. Pairing was super quick. Connecting the app was easy. A quick firmware update and everything works. Everything shifts as it should. I was able to set it to 11sp. It came set up as 12sp from the factory.
Still waiting for my wheelset and the right kind of batteries so it will be a while until I actually get this on the road, though.
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Man setting up the shifters is kind of PITA. I even hurt my hand just to tighten the STI bolt.
I too fell into the trap of ordering flat top batteries. I can confirm that they don't work. They just about do not make contact with the pins in the battery holder. Hence, no power.
Apart from that I connected the groupset with the charger. It powered up. Pairing was super quick. Connecting the app was easy. A quick firmware update and everything works. Everything shifts as it should. I was able to set it to 11sp. It came set up as 12sp from the factory.
Still waiting for my wheelset and the right kind of batteries so it will be a while until I actually get this on the road, though.
You should have read @strayan_rice_farmer 's reply. I was asking what batteries should I buy.
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The pictures were misleading. I just didn’t know they were flat top batteries. But whatever. I got new ones on order and the wheels won’t be here for at least another week anyway.
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The pictures were misleading. I just didn’t know they were flat top batteries. But whatever. I got new ones on order and the wheels won’t be here for at least another week anyway.
Sounds like we are on the same timeline.
My entire rig is set up and ready, just waiting for wheels which are estimated oct 15-20. We'll see when they get here!
I also *did* order a different cockpit, but it won't be here for another 2 weeks, so I'll likely disassemble the cockpit and re-reun everything in a couple of weeks lol.
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We're all on the same timeline here lol. I am also waiting for my wheelset as I just ordered them from Yishunbikes the other day. They may come a week or two.
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I paid 467,39 EUR + 13 EUR in customs fees when it arrived. I'm based in Germany.
467€ directly on aliexpress and 13€ to the post company?
Can you share which shipping method you used? I am tempted to try my own luck.
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On Aliexpress, you can get them for 400 USD free shipping with all the party code and the coupon 1035 and the store coupons with the 80 Designer Store.
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To quote a band I like:
"Father, forgive them
For they know not what they do"
Ordered ER9 from 80's designer store, paid 411€ at the checkout. Even if I get hit with full custom tax it won't be that bad.
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Oh... I just pulled the trigger. 404 USD with the store coupon [15 USD`, and 1035 coupon [35 USD`, and the 10 USD party time rebate.
I really have to control my compulsory shopping behavior...
I hope it will last me long enough so that when it is stolen, it still works by then (I just had 4 of my race bikes stolen last week...).
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Oh... I just pulled the trigger. 404 USD with the store coupon [15 USD`, and 1035 coupon [35 USD`, and the 10 USD party time rebate.
I really have to control my compulsory shopping behavior...
I hope it will last me long enough so that when it is stolen, it still works by then (I just had 4 of my race bikes stolen last week...).
ER9 or ERX? WTF that's holy cheap!
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467€ directly on aliexpress and 13€ to the post company?
Can you share which shipping method you used? I am tempted to try my own luck.
I bought it at the "80s Designer Store" as well. Since the "Official LTWOO Shop" on Aliexpress is not actually operated by LTWOO, I figured I might as well go with the best offer. What's more: I did deal with the Official Store when I ordered RX12 for a friend and dealt with them because of a warranty claim (the RD Cage was bent). As others have reported here, they're not exactly quick to communicate. Getting a spare cage shipped out was a long and tedious process. The 80s Designer Store in contrast was much quicker and easier to communicate with. Whatever that's going to be worth in the long run.
467 EUR did include shipping. The 13 EUR were customs fees. So actually, you guys got it even cheaper. Guess I should have waited a bit longer. But Alas, with Aliexpress you never really know when the best time is.
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ER9 or ERX? WTF that's holy cheap!
ER9 :) I can’t bother with carbon shifters that brake after any fall.
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
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Wow this makes me regret getting the erx a bit over a month ago, haha.
ER9 is certainly the value buy.
Oh well!
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Where are people sourcing their 14500 battery from? Doesn't seem to be too easy to find in Canada besides eBay.
No battery, no box with all the discount it is showing $398.34USD shipped still tempted but I don't have a frame for this yet...
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Fucking hell, that’s a deal.
I bought mine from Walmart (linked in this thread) and they are working great.
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
AliExpress listing shows price with VAT included, but if you add the item to the cart and go to checkout, you'll see the price without VAT. Then you can use coupons and coins to get additional discount
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And a little reminder that you should order in USD and not in EUR and get a good credit card with low costs to do the conversion to EUR...
I use a Revolut card for the smaller purchases and a Keytrade Visa card for the bigger ones...
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
It was 557 but with coupons and promo codes I had the discount to 412€. I ordered a lot from AE and never payed taxes so we will see if I have to pay extra tax if it arrives but probably not. I’m located in belgium
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where are you located? for france, AE is showing 610 + 67eur shipping fees, on the 80s Designer Store.
Don't understand how you guys are getting it for 400Eur ich
Do you have the correct store?
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Ordered today also at 410€ shippibg and taxes included
Do have a link for groupset for this price?
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Here is the link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005922459020.html
Don't forget to add coupon code 1035
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It was 557 but with coupons and promo codes I had the discount to 412€. I ordered a lot from AE and never payed taxes so we will see if I have to pay extra tax if it arrives but probably not. I’m located in belgium
Me too, it looks like there are ways some sellers find 8)
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Here is the link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005922459020.html
Don't forget to add coupon code 1035
Perfekt. I just ordered and paid 413 USD shipped with the code 1035
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This is what I see (no box, no battery):
Summary
Total item costs
US $462.72
Saved US $64.38
- Spend & Save -US $10.00 (US $2 off every US $15 (max US $10))
- Store Coupons/Codes- US $15.00
- Promo Code - US $35.00 (1035)
- Coins - US $4.38(438 Coins)
Shipping: Free
Total: $398.34 USD
Should I jump on this? ???
Just need a frame to put this on...
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This is price I paid.
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This is what I see (no box, no battery):
Summary
Total item costs
US $462.72
Saved US $64.38
- Spend & Save -US $10.00 (US $2 off every US $15 (max US $10))
- Store Coupons/Codes- US $15.00
- Promo Code - US $35.00 (1035)
- Coins - US $4.38(438 Coins)
Shipping: Free
Total: $398.34 USD
Should I jump on this? ???
Just need a frame to put this on...
you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
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I would choose ER9 over ERX though. Given how fragile the carbon shifters are.
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you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
Yeah, kicking myself a bit, but alas.
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
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you just go for it. It's close to the price of a 11 speed mechanical Ultegra.
eRX is also on sale wtf. I wanted to buy another one but I already have eR9 and just waiting for the wheelset.
You mean.... the RX12 mechanical mini groupset is almost the same price.
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Ok, I ordered the eR9 as well, paid 393€ on Aliexpress. I guess there is going to be a lot of beta testers in ~two weeks.
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You guys are really buying this stuff even when youtubers known for loving Chinese stuff gave it a red card?
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
I will also buy a 105 di2
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Is there any way just to get the 105 Di2 shifters, calipers and the FD/RD derailleur only? You can cut weight going with an Ultegra cassette/crankset or go with an aftermarket setup.
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My local Shimano dealer here in the US is having a sale on 105 Di2 12sp groupsets for around $1000 usd. Not as a cheap as ER9/ERX, but in less than a year's time I would have forgotten about the extra $500 in exchange for running a proven and reliable groupset.
Yes.
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Been lurking on this thread for a minute. Thanks for sharing the 80s designer store! The 1035 code doesnt work in USA but i found another code that did $30 off on top of the $10 that was already off. Came out to $450... Cant wait for it to get here and i'll post up about my experience with it when it does!
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Is there any way just to get the 105 Di2 shifters, calipers and the FD/RD derailleur only? You can cut weight going with an Ultegra cassette/crankset or go with an aftermarket setup.
Yep. I just picked the shit I wanted and bought them from all random places.
Merlin, Amazon, some other random joints. Worked out way cheaper to get separates. Was planning to mix/match shimano and ltwoo but it turns out ltwoo is utter garbage. Ended up with
105 fd/rd/crankset. Good cash savings, similar performance and weight. 105 rd has same internals as DA/ultegra. Have more faith in 105 cranks vs ultegra.
Ultegra shifters and cassette. Wanted top buttons n satellites without faffing with wires to a battery) and cassette has good weight savings for the cost. Servo wave is nice vs my 105 that doesn't have it, too, but whatever.
GRX brakes (same as 105/ultegra)
DA rotors (look coolest and same price)
Made my own satellite shifters for tops n drops for like 30bucks
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This website provides 105 di2 parts in OEM packages:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/s/?keywords=105+di2+OEM
RD/FD+shifters+crankset for 595€ [you still need the battery and the cables though which adds 240€].
They had an offer where the complete Groupset was only 769€. I should have jumped on it.
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This website provides 105 di2 parts in OEM packages:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/s/?keywords=105+di2+OEM
RD/FD+shifters+crankset for 595€ [you still need the battery and the cables though which adds 240€].
I think you are missing 1 shifter for that price...
190+190+132+67 = about 580 € for shifters, brakes an FD end RD without crank
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
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@kubackjeee yes I would consider buying it 1. It allows me not to have to upgrade from 11 speed right away 2. I reside in the Caribbean on an island named Antigua and unlike Shimano's etube software, I would not be geo-blocked. This means no need for me to have to use software to hide my ip. 3, Its cheaper than the alternatives 4. Really see no red card but more a yellow one and recently heard of a Shimano recall that were I to have one of their cranks, I would still be at a loss due to my location.
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I think you are missing 1 shifter for that price...
190+190+132+67 = about 580 € for shifters, brakes an FD end RD without crank
No because my VAT is at 7.7% so
167*2+59+118+85=596€.
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
ultegra
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What 11 speed 11-32t cassette would you recommend with ER9? Nothing crazy like DA/Red, I was thinking about trying SLR2 sold by Lexon store or Sunshine
I would just get an Ultegra 11-32t cassette. I'm not confident with the SRoad/Spedao cassette I'm using. I bought two cassettes, the first one skipped big time on the 12t cog, so I returned it. I'm on my second cassette which is a bit better, but I'm not sure long term if the small cogs can handle the torque when going out of saddle. Normally I'm not mashing on the 12/11t cogs, but sometimes on hard sprint climbs, I do drop into high gear while on the small chainring and there might be too much torque for the cassette to handle.
I'll probably swap it out with an Ultegra cassette if it goes out.
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You guys are really buying this stuff even when youtubers known for loving Chinese stuff gave it a red card?
Well, they are only youtubers....they seems to forget how hard sram failed when starting with their electronic groupsets..i remember a race, where 5 people were sitting at the side of the road not being able to change gears with their sram, sebastian kienle had failures on racing hawaii with sram..
So, why not give LTWOO the time to get stuff done...
We are currently planning to sell these units, even with aliexpress selling it lower than we buy directly, but customers are in the market for budget custom gravel builds....and it is great for the market....we need to show shimano, that their pricing needs to be adjusted.
the low prices on the shimano di2 sets are made by the dealer ships, shimano has still their high price attitude and in europe, margins are not there....a normal bike shop buys shimano stuff cheaper online at some outlets, than referring to the official distributor...
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No because my VAT is at 7.7% so
167*2+59+118+85=596€.
That explains a lot :)
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Has anyone figured out yet what the “gear protection” and “one touch shift” options in the LTWOO companion app actually do? They don’t seem to make a difference when I shift.
Also, does anyone else also have the bug that the app shows the battery as always fully charged? I already received two firmware updates but that issue persists.
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Has anyone figured out yet what the “gear protection” and “one touch shift” options in the LTWOO companion app actually do? They don’t seem to make a difference when I shift.
Also, does anyone else also have the bug that the app shows the battery as always fully charged? I already received two firmware updates but that issue persists.
"one-touch" seems to cycle with a single button.
So for front deirauller, it just goes 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2 regardless of the button pressed.
Fucked up my entire setup at first, lol.
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"one-touch" seems to cycle with a single button.
So for front deirauller, it just goes 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2 regardless of the button pressed.
Fucked up my entire setup at first, lol.
[/quote
Wish shimano has a toggle function for fd to free up a button. Annoying.
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Battery level is now accurate within the app. Seems like it needed the first charge/discharge cycle to calibrate itself. Also, the sleep and wake up functionality works fine. Once the bike sits for a while, nothing happens when you click the shifter. But the slightest vibration wakes the RD back up and it shifts. So here's to hoping that the groupset doesn't fall asleep when riding on super smooth roads :)
Luckily I don't have many of those where I live.
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The only quirk I found when setting up my set was that what they call the "7" cog is acutally the "6" cog in the app.
I was calibrating and consistently the shifting was 1 off - lowest cog would stop on second to lowest and highest cog would seemingly push over past the max.
Solved this by just making a manual adjustment and shifting to 6 on the chainring and then calibrating (it says to go to the 7th) and it works swimmingly.
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The only quirk I found when setting up my set was that what they call the "7" cog is acutally the "6" cog in the app.
I was calibrating and consistently the shifting was 1 off - lowest cog would stop on second to lowest and highest cog would seemingly push over past the max.
Solved this by just making a manual adjustment and shifting to 6 on the chainring and then calibrating (it says to go to the 7th) and it works swimmingly.
Was that for 11 or 12 speed?
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12
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Does the FD of ER9 has a slight play? I have mine with a slight play lol.
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Does the FD of ER9 has a slight play? I have mine with a slight play lol.
Slight play how, like between the FD and the mount on the frame or in the positioning in the chainline?
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Slight play how, like between the FD and the mount on the frame or in the positioning in the chainline?
It's in the positioning of the chainline.
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How much play?
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How much play?
It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
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It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
I haven't seen that in my installation, but I can verify when I go out tomorrow and be a bit more discerning.
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It's in the positioning of the chainline.
Mine just got here and no play there
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For those interested weights of the er9
https://youtu.be/71En2akvLKA?si=XmAKTLIkfg4C_zO6
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For those interested weights of the er9
https://youtu.be/71En2akvLKA?si=XmAKTLIkfg4C_zO6
Comparing to Trace Velo's weight videos for ERX - shifters and front derailleur are exactly the same weight, ER9 rear derailleur is 10g heavier than ERX.
Makes ER9 look like a great deal... when it works.
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Comparing to Trace Velo's weight videos for ERX - shifters and front derailleur are exactly the same weight, ER9 rear derailleur is 10g heavier than ERX.
Makes ER9 look like a great deal... when it works.
Yea dude... the claimed weights on aliexpress descriptions were heavier than what they really were. Wondered if they did that because they wouldnt be able to sell the ERX other wise
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It's like a quarter of a mm of play, tho it shifts pretty nice now but I want to know if other guys are experiencing this so I can report this to LTwoo
I can move the FD cage by that amount if I try. But the motor or some sort of spring tension is acting against it. So there’s not really any play.
I’ve done 100k so far on er9. It works great. I wish there was a bit more tactile feedback from the shift buttons. It’s a bit hard to tell whether or not I actually pushed the button. Apart from that all is good.
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Well looks like I have an issue right now. I have DMed LTwoo official store on AliExpress and let's see what they can do.
And so far, my er9 is working well despite the issue on my FD which it has a little bit of play. I agree that the buttons needs to be a little more tactile because I can accidentally press the FD when I am climbing and nobody wants that lol
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Would anyone be interested in buying my full ERX setup? Ridden less than 1km, rear mech failed and I have a brand new unused replacement. I swapped it out for Di2 before the replacement part came in so it’s all practically brand new sat doing nothing.
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Would anyone be interested in buying my full ERX setup? Ridden less than 1km, rear mech failed and I have a brand new unused replacement. I swapped it out for Di2 before the replacement part came in so it’s all practically brand new sat doing nothing.
Where are you located, USA?
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Where are you located, USA?
Im in the UK
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Im in the UK
I might be interested, but only if there is a save and cheap option to get it to The Netherlands. I'm afraid that is a bit of a pickle given Brexit... Unless of course you are travelling to NL soonish :D
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Afraid not dude! I would love to get over there for a ride though!
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Hello, I received my groupset today. First impressions are really good. I bought the Er9 and for the price i've paid its more then i expected from the outside. After some tests everything seemed to work. I've paired the RD and FD with the app and all works good and fine.
But the problem I have is to compare my shifters with the derailleurs.
The shifters turn green when i push the inside button. I've tried everything from the installation video with the 4 and 5 sec push but it seems i can't find it to compare them. It's not that the shifters dont work cause the light flashes green.
Hopefully someone can help or explain me if i'm doing something wrong or maybe if there is anyway a problem with the shifters? I think its the shifters because the derailleurs working fine with the app.
Thanks!
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Hello, I received my groupset today. First impressions are really good. I bought the Er9 and for the price i've paid its more then i expected from the outside. After some tests everything seemed to work. I've paired the RD and FD with the app and all works good and fine.
But the problem I have is to compare my shifters with the derailleurs.
The shifters turn green when i push the inside button. I've tried everything from the installation video with the 4 and 5 sec push but it seems i can't find it to compare them. It's not that the shifters dont work cause the light flashes green.
Hopefully someone can help or explain me if i'm doing something wrong or maybe if there is anyway a problem with the shifters? I think its the shifters because the derailleurs working fine with the app.
Thanks!
I have found the issue and for now everything works great , now I have to wait for my frame and wheelset to arrive to finish the build! :)
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What was the issue?
By the way, ER9 should be around 360$ for 11.11 xD
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What was the issue?
By the way, ER9 should be around 360$ for 11.11 xD
I think i did it the wrong way , in the video they say to push the RD for 5 seconds but in practice it was much shorter.
Yes I know it will probably be this price :) , but anyway I am happy with the buying it for 410 and 30€ customs :D
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
I'm running mine with GRX 810 48/31 and it's actually really good and that's even outside of the range it's supposed to work with of 16t jump. Shimano chainrings are pretty nice i guess
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How happy is everyone with their front shifting on er9/erx?
I can't seem to get it to shift smoothly to the big ring. I think the ZRACE chainring is to blame. I'm not sure, though.
The chainrings are brand new.
mine shifts really fine. have you tried to tweak with the limits? I put mine on 75 on big ring
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I fixed it now and it shifts as expected. It seems to be a combination of things. My TanTan TT-X38 has the FD hanger sitting very far inboard. I’m using a SRAM Wide Axle BB30 crank which has the big ring sitting at 49mm. So particularly far outboard. And I think the er9 FD is a little bit more limited in movement compared to other FDs - mechanical ones for example. I had it at the outermost extreme setting with the high limit all the way outboard at 99 and it still wouldn’t shift well enough for my taste. But I spacered the bolt on FD hanger about 3mm further outboard and now I’m able to set it up so it shifts super smooth. So it’s more the frames fault than the groupset‘s IMO.
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What kind of brake pads besides the LTWOO pads can be used, is it the Shimano L05A? My first bike using disc brakes.
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Can someone link the right batteries for Ltwoo Electronic? Thanks!
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
The only direct comparison review I've seen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DAdTseyjxk
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Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
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My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
I’m interested to know if someone here can compare it with other electronic groupsets. I’ve only ever ridden the last generation 11sp Ultegra Di2. But that’s quite a while ago. I wish the shifting was a bit quicker with er9, particularly when going to bigger cogs/easier gears on the cassette. The time it takes from clicking to the chain making it to the next cog sometimes feels rather slow. Especially compared to the mechanical groupsets I got on my other bikes. Also: More feedback from the shift buttons would be nice.
Other than that, no complaints.
Pretty much the same experience that I have. Approaching 1000 kilometers with my er9 and I wish that buttons were more tactile because I have no idea if I already shifted or not. FD shifting is not the worst but not the best either. I don't really have any comparison but my mechanical ultegra which shifts great. It is really a gateway to electronic shifting. I hope the next version of what they make would be much nicer and improved. I also tested this in rain and always clean it with wet cloth. No issues whatsoever. My 105 di2 12 speed is on the way and I would have a perspective on what will be the difference between an established brand vs a new and upcoming brand.
Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
Already watched that. Di2 were much crispier and shifts faster than LTwoo. But he is comparing the highest tier of Shimano. He should've compared to something like Rival or 105 but I doubt there would be any difference with 105 and DA. I am happy to be corrected if someone here has an experience with both groupset
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Can someone link the right batteries for Ltwoo Electronic? Thanks!
You want a 14500 Button Top battery. Should be able to get it locally wherever you are. I got the Vapcell H10 Button Top 1000mah 4 for $20 USD
My 500k update on er9. I’m pleased with it. It works very well. No issues, despite a few rides in really grim weather conditions. I’ve also washed the bike quite a few times now. No problems.
Same with me but for the eRX. About 400km now. One downside is the shifters are pretty sensitive, so if you rest your fingers on it it'll suddenly shift a couple gears, it's annoying sometimes but just takes getting used to.
Found this comparison from 3 months ago "Does L-Twoo eRX really outperform Di2 Dura Ace? Battle of Budget vs premium electronic shifting" by
Klein Concept on youtube (see I am not allowed to use the direct url so you will have to search for it)
Super super off topic, does anyone know why I can't see embedded youtube links? It's just a blank square.
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Most likely it’s the browser you’re using. I see all links fine on mobile (safari) but not on my desktop (chrome).
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Doed anyone know if the LTWOO shifters are compatible with Shimano og SRAM brake callipers? I cant get my LTWOO ER9 calliper to fit the fork on my LightCarbon frameset. Could go for the 140mm rotor, but want to see if I can get 160mm front and back. Se pictures. Other solutions are welcome
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Doed anyone know if the LTWOO shifters are compatible with Shimano og SRAM brake callipers? I cant get my LTWOO ER9 calliper to fit the fork on my LightCarbon frameset. Could go for the 140mm rotor, but want to see if I can get 160mm front and back. Se pictures. Other solutions are welcome
I think Shimano is compatible since they use mineral oil. SRAM however is not since they use DOT 5
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I’ve paired my LTWOO brifters with Campagnolo calipers. Works great. I used the Campy pin and olive on the caliper end of the brake line. Those are virtually identical with Magura so I’m sure that Magura calipers would work as well. In fact I’ve paired Magura MT8 calipers with Campy Ekar levers on my gravel bike. And the LTWOO hydraulic units in the brifters are basically Campy copies. And I’m quite sure you could pair the levers with Shimano calipers as well.
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I’ve paired my LTWOO brifters with Campagnolo calipers...
Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
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I think Shimano is compatible since they use mineral oil. SRAM however is not since they use DOT 5
It is really important to not mix components for mineral oil and DOT. The reason is : the sealing material is designed to work with the corresponding fluid. Using the "wrong" fluid leads to damage in the sealing and then leakage of the hydraulic system.
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Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
LTwoo calipers are bricks. I'd rather source some Shimano calipers if possible or use lightweight ZRace/IIIPro calipers.
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Just for fun? Or are LTWOO callipers that bad?
I source most of my parts used. So I collected a few parts over the years.
I had a used set of Campy calipers lying around because I ended up not using them on my gravel build. They are much lighter and look a lot sleeker than the LTWOO calipers. The front one does not need any adapter for a 160mm disc for instance. And yes, I really don’t like the look of LTWOO‘s weird „postmount to flatmount“ arrangement.
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LTwoo calipers are bricks. I'd rather source some Shimano calipers if possible or use lightweight ZRace/IIIPro calipers.
I've tried this, just wanted to warn that they aren't super great IME. I'd source shimano calipers instead.
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Heard someone pairing Ltwoo shifters with mt200 calipers. Might look into that myself. Have to be just as good if not better than the ltwoo calipers and no doubt lighter since they use those hefty adapters.
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I just finished my first ride where I did not have issues with the groupset. For anyone with an ERX / ER9 groupset, I suggest you add some ductape between the connectors for both derailleurs. After I did this, the groupset has been incredible, and is a dream to work with. Especially for that price (~500 eur).
The groupset is not able to withstand any type of moisture, but thankfully ductape does work.
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I am not convinced by all these reports on the moisture problem, honestly. Shimano / SRAM are more expensive but not that many bad reports vs total sales in my opinion and probably worth to give them a shoot instead.
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@Hubertus if you google you will see persons also complaining about issues with Shimano products eg their 105 di2, Thing is it would not be posted in these forums. Ltwoo is newer to the space and will have more bugs. Thing is I see them working on solutions. Their disadvantage is unlike Shimano, you need to wait longer for the fixes since there is no nearby outlet/dealer. Pretty much knew from day one, before jumping in, I was going to give them time to fix the major bugs
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I am not trying to add negative publicity, rather add a simple piece of truth, and a way to deal with it. Again, now that I used the tape, the groupset is working like magic.
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I am not trying to add negative publicity, rather add a simple piece of truth, and a way to deal with it. Again, now that I used the tape, the groupset is working like magic.
Did yours stop working because of moisture? Mine got plenty of rain and various bike washes. No issues. I keep my fingers crossed.
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Did yours stop working because of moisture? Mine got plenty of rain and various bike washes. No issues. I keep my fingers crossed.
Yes, 1 minute into my first ride it stopped working because of the wet environment (rainy Netherlands). Repeated this a couple of times before I realized it was due to moisture getting into the system, more specifically the connections to the cables on both derailleurs.
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When I saw that tracevelo was having was having water ingress issues with the gravel groupset I lost all faith in them fixing this. If wheeltop group is good I'll buy that, they say it's rated for ip67.
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When I saw that tracevelo was having was having water ingress issues with the gravel groupset I lost all faith in them fixing this. If wheeltop group is good I'll buy that, they say it's rated for ip67.
Or just buy something from Shimano or SRAM. My Shimano 105 Di2 groupset is on the way and I only paid for $711 for the upgrade kit. While er9 is good, I still have some doubts about it's longetivity. On my yesterday's ride, I thought my FD was failing because it won't function after a couple of presses. But it got fixed without needing any fixes and I don't know why it was acting like that.
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Yeah shimano is my current plan, but wheeltop is very competitive on weight and fully wireless. Not buying sram
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@Hubertus if you google you will see persons also complaining about issues with Shimano products eg their 105 di2, Thing is it would not be posted in these forums. Ltwoo is newer to the space and will have more bugs. Thing is I see them working on solutions. Their disadvantage is unlike Shimano, you need to wait longer for the fixes since there is no nearby outlet/dealer. Pretty much knew from day one, before jumping in, I was going to give them time to fix the major bugs
My di2 never showed any sign of water issues since 5 years. Some heavy rain rides included..The plugs are the same as for the 12x di2. For the ltwoo this seems to be more critical. Not a lot riders out there but quite a few reports about water problems.
So far: this looks very appealing, but they must improve the water protection.
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I am having issues with my Erx- randomly working/not working and being slow to respond (it's been very wet here) while working fine with the app but not the brifters (which have new batteries in them and the system is fully charged). Would you be able to describe in more detail what you did with the duct tape? Did you wrap a small piece around where it plugs into the mech or ?? I'm not quite sure how to follow your suggestion and I would LOVE to have a working set!
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I am having issues with my Erx- randomly working/not working and being slow to respond (it's been very wet here) while working fine with the app but not the brifters (which have new batteries in them and the system is fully charged). Would you be able to describe in more detail what you did with the duct tape? Did you wrap a small piece around where it plugs into the mech or ?? I'm not quite sure how to follow your suggestion and I would LOVE to have a working set!
Step 1:
Disconnect the cables from both derailleurs
Step 2:
Be absolutely sure there is no moisture in the cable or port on the derailleurs. Thoroughly inspect with a flashlight, and let it dry overnight if you want to be absolutely sure.
Step 3:
Rear derailleur: create a strip of ductape (2cm x 5cm), connect the cable and wrap it around the derailleur + cable to make a tight fit. Press down on the ductape to ensure no moisture will get in. Make sure the tape surpasses the "cup" (poor design) which fits the cable.
Front derailleur: unmount the whole unit so you have better access to the port. And repeat the process for the FD. This one of more finicky, but just try to make sure you have a reasonable connection. The FD is less likely to ingress water as the port is downward facing, whereas the RD is essentially a convex shape, waiting to pick up rain.
Step 4:
Ride!
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Step 1:
Disconnect the cables from both derailleurs
Step 2:
Be absolutely sure there is no moisture in the cable or port on the derailleurs. Thoroughly inspect with a flashlight, and let it dry overnight if you want to be absolutely sure.
Step 3:
Rear derailleur: create a strip of ductape (2cm x 5cm), connect the cable and wrap it around the derailleur + cable to make a tight fit. Press down on the ductape to ensure no moisture will get in. Make sure the tape surpasses the "cup" (poor design) which fits the cable.
Front derailleur: unmount the whole unit so you have better access to the port. And repeat the process for the FD. This one of more finicky, but just try to make sure you have a reasonable connection. The FD is less likely to ingress water as the port is downward facing, whereas the RD is essentially a convex shape, waiting to pick up rain.
Step 4:
Ride!
Can't you use some dielectric grease?
It amazes me how people keep defending Ltwoo and these groupsets with all these problems... It's not like we're talking about a 125USD Sensah mechanical groupset...
It's like buying a frame, seeing it has a crack when it arrives and saying: "I'll just put some epoxy on there and ride it, it's the cost of being an early-adopter"
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
Never knew of its existence, but yes, you can definitely use that. I went with what I had.
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Never knew of its existence, but yes, you can definitely use that. I went with what I had.
Yeah, I discovered it because I had to use it when replacing an SD-card in my front door camera. So it is definitely fit for this purpose.
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So doe the ER9/X issues only happen to those who ride in the rain?
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So doe the ER9/X issues only happen to those who ride in the rain?
I got caught in rain once. No issues after the ride..
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Anecdotal evidence, really. But I rode my er9 again today in rain on wet roads. The bike got covered in grime. I hosed it down after the ride. Groupset keeps working. This time of the year, pretty much all my rides are wet and dirty. No issues. All these reports do make me wonder if I should take precautionary measures.
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
It amazes me how people keep defending Ltwoo and these groupsets with all these problems... It's not like we're talking about a 125USD Sensah mechanical groupset...
It's like buying a frame, seeing it has a crack when it arrives and saying: "I'll just put some epoxy on there and ride it, it's the cost of being an early-adopter"
It’s just show the desire from many to see a viable third option behind the big two.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
Must....resist....the...urge...to...stock up on more spare groupsets for future builds.
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Theyre NA only
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
I inputted one of the big TPC promo codes that brought the total 105 Di2 savings below $400 USD, but after I entered my address it said I wasn't eligible! I was just about to pull the trigger. :-\
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Must....resist....the...urge...to...stock up on more spare groupsets for future builds.
I pulled the trigger
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
These deals are just getting crazier and better. My 105 Di2 upgrade kit just came in and it's $711. Then here's a deal with much cheaper than the one I bought.
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With all the issues the eRX groupset is having, if you’re in the market for a cheap electronic group, The Pro’s Closet is selling Shimano Di2 at ridiculous prices. You can use their $40 off coupon for every $200 and build a full 105 Di2 for like $500 right now. Shifters are $100 each, brakes for $28, RD is $100, FD is $55, battery for $66.
Thanks Eddy! I also pulled the trigger no batteries left but will source that locally.
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Anyone was sucsesfull connecting the shifters to Garmin computer or watch to see the used gear?
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Can't you use some dielectric grease?
My RD started to respond slowly as well. Very likely due to moisture in the plug. I disconnected it, cleaned it, let it dry and applied some silicone grease to seal the plug from the elements. Did a 90 minute long ride today. Everything is back to normal. The RD shifts fine. I think the RD plug is most likely the scapegoat since the plug at the FD socket is facing downward and is probably a lot less likely to collect moisture. I think the plug design could easily be improved to seal better against water.
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My RD started to respond slowly as well. Very likely due to moisture in the plug. I disconnected it, cleaned it, let it dry and applied some silicone grease to seal the plug from the elements. Did a 90 minute long ride today. Everything is back to normal. The RD shifts fine. I think the RD plug is most likely the scapegoat since the plug at the FD socket is facing downward and is probably a lot less likely to collect moisture. I think the plug design could easily be improved to seal better against water.
Can you make a video showing what you did? :)
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Anyone was sucsesfull connecting the shifters to Garmin computer or watch to see the used gear?
Got mine to connect to my igs630. It takes a while for the computer to register shifts but it does it. It also shows the battery in the seatpost.
https://youtu.be/-UaqkXsHpyk?si=kU6klY6GOLyTtyO3&t=870 (https://youtu.be/-UaqkXsHpyk?si=kU6klY6GOLyTtyO3&t=870)
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I upgraded my er9 equipped bike from 11 to 12sp. I switched the groupset to 12sp in the firmware, calibrated the RD and adjusted the individual gears. But there's an issue now: Every time I shift the RD to the biggest cog on the cassette, it stays there only for a second or so and then shifts back down to the second biggest cog. I dunno why. Has anyone else had that issue?
It does that regardless of whether i control the RD with the app or with the shift buttons and regardless of whether I'm in the small or big ring up front. It almost looks like some sort of safety feature. I'm using an 11-34 cassette now. But the gears are running smooth, the RD cage is not overstretched. The upper pulley isn't touching the cassette. Obviously the big/big combination is noisier, but there's no inherent problem. No idea what's going on. I might try to restore the factory settings and see if that helps.
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Have you indexed it far enough inboard? The rear derraileur overshifts slightly then adjusts back in-line with the cog. Likely their way of improving compatibility with random third-party.
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Have you indexed it far enough inboard? The rear derraileur overshifts slightly then adjusts back in-line with the cog. Likely their way of improving compatibility with random third-party.
Interesting. It seems that the b screw adjustment was the issue. I did a factory reset. The problem persisted. I adjusted the upper pulley slightly further away from the cassette. Then the gear stayed in place when on the small ring up front. But the rd shifted back automatically when on the big ring. Likely because in the big big combo the rd pulley sits closer to the cassette and there’s more vibration. So I adjusted the b screw again setting the pulley even further from the cassette. Now it’s fine. It seems there is some sort of protective feature or a variation of crash mode? The excessive vibrations seem to cause it to avoid that gear.
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Can you make a video showing what you did? :)
Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little pieces of wax from the chain.
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Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little piecesof wax from the chain.
Good idea! With silicone sealant this would be a stable sealing I guess. If you can manage to have a proper adhesion on the plastic. That's maybe tricky.
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Has anyone using eRX/er9 paired the system with a Hammerhead Karoo 2? Can't sort out the how of it all, hehe.
Have you paired it successfully? I have my ER9 on order and plan to use it with my karoo2
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Hi all,
I’m getting sent rear derailleur number 3 now. First one stopped working all together. Second one started to fail communicating with the shifters having to oish sometimes ten times to get a reaction. Very frustrating because when the Erx group shifts, it shifts nice! Luckily they are truing their utmost to be helpful. I have ordered the mechanical R9 as a backup now.
Fingers crossed.
Martijn
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Have you paired it successfully? I have my ER9 on order and plan to use it with my karoo2
I paired it successfully with my Wahoo Roam v.1
Sometimes it's a bit slow to display the gear changes but other than that it's fine. Pairing worked instantly.
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I'm guessing they'll announce a 'final' (not final but works properly) product at SBS next year. Same I think with WheelTop and Sensah, though Sensah may miss it.
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Thanks to this thread I just ordered myself a sub 400€ er9 groupset! Thank you!
This will replace a mech 105 on my "adventure / endurance bike" which is a Canyon Endurace 7 alloy.
Anybody know what other disc brake pads can be used? I considered keeping my 105 calipers on, but thought why the hell not make it all ltwoo.
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Hi, is anyone else having issues with trimming? I adjusted the front derailleur (low and high limits), so it doesn't rub against the chain when it is shifted in one of the extreme positions (1st or 12th cog) in the rear. I am noticing, however, that the position of the front derailleur doesn't change for all intermediate gears even when pressing the shifter button for the second time. It seems to me that there are only three or four intermediate positions at the front that change depending on what gear I am in at the back. This leads to slight rubbing of the chain against the derailleur in some gears (in my case, 5th and 6th cogs are problematic when I am in the large chainring at the front).
Is this a problem with adjusting the derailleur? Maybe there is a magic button in the app that solves this problem? Any other ideas how to fix this? This seems like a purely software problem to me.
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
Yes, I have the 11-34 12-speed cassette with a compact chainring in the front and it works great. I think it should be possible to go even bigger.
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Yes, I have the 11-34 12-speed cassette with a compact chainring in the front and it works great. I think it should be possible to go even bigger.
what cassette are you using? 105?
Thanks
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Hi, is anyone else having issues with trimming?
Yes, I seem to be in a similar situation as you are with slight rubbing in the middle sprockets when on the big front ring. When using the trim function (i.e. pressing the front shift button a second time), the front derailleur doesn't center on the chain and instead is positioned too far to one side.
And agreed, it should be possible for L-Twoo to improve this through software. There was a recent FD firmware update (v1.12 I believe) but that didn't fix anything for me. The app has a 'Single gear fine tuning' section for both the FD and the RD; while the RD tuning works great, I haven't been able to figure out how the equivalent FD option is meant to work. There is this weird cross-hair symbol in the bottom right corner of the app screen - no idea what that does.
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Did anyone manage to fit an 11-34 and test it out?
Also looking to know pulley wheel dimensions and how many teeth... would change those to a purple if mine would fit
Same here. Recently upgraded to an 11-34 12speed cassette. I had to adjust the RD b-screw so the upper pulley sits far away enough from the cassette to not have excessive vibrations. Because otherwise the RD would not stay in gear and shift back down the cassette. I've been in touch with LTWOO and found out that this is a sort of protective feature of the groupset. Adjusting the b screw accordingly solved my issue.
Also, I complained here earlier that I found the RD slow to shift. Upgrading from 11sp to 12sp I've found that it shifts quicker now. That makes sense, because the RD moves just as quickly as before but has to travel less distance from gear to gear on a 12sp cassette compared to an 11sp one. I think despite being compatible with 11sp and 10sp, this groupset seems to work best with 12sp components.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
What about writing that to ltwoo? I agree that's super bad. This is not only valid for the power trainer, it's also interesting when you use two wheelsets. With my mechanical Ultegra I only have to adjust with some clicks and I am done. Basically, that's an important point for me. I switch my wheels very often on my commuter. For the disc rotors I worked with shims, but for the rear derailleur I use the tension adjustment screw every time.
I was thinking about using er9 for my commuter, but somehow that's a no go then. :o
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what cassette are you using? 105?
Thanks
Yes, 105 and it works fine.
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I wish there was a general gear shift trim feature in the app on top of the individual gear tuning, sort of like the barrel adjuster on a mechanical RD. I got it perfectly set up on the road but when I put the bike on my direct drive turbo, the indexing on that cassette is just slightly off enough in a few gears to be really annoying. But adjusting the individual gears every time I put the bike on and off the trainer is super tedious.
A better alternative would be to have individual profiles within the app that you can save to. So you can just load the profile when needed.
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I was thinking about using er9 for my commuter, but somehow that's a no go then. :o
I mean you could even save various presets in the app. One for every wheelset or the trainer and just switch between indexing settings via app. Shouldn’t be too hard to implement. I’d love that. I’ll send them an email.
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I mean you could even save various presets in the app. One for every wheelset or the trainer and just switch between indexing settings via app. Shouldn’t be too hard to implement. I’d love that. I’ll send them an email.
Since yesterday when I wrote that i had the same idea. So there could be a set of different rear wheels. That would be the perfect solution. I am very curious what they reply to you.
Besides that, I hope they improve the sealing quickly on the rear derailleur plug.
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My rear derailleur stopped working as of a couple of days ago. I was starting a casual ride, and out of nowhere it stopped shifting. The motor makes a sound but no shifting happens. FD works totally fine.
The template below was shared when talking to customer service.
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I was really interested in the ER9/X, but with all these failures, I honestly can't see myself ever buying anything from LTwoo.
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
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Anyone else experienced this issue? Seems to happen at temperatures around 40 degrees F mid ride after sitting outside while i'm at a cafe for like an hour. The big paddle kinda stops the small paddle from releasing itself and thus the continuous shifts. Seems to fix itself though after i get home and put the bike in the house. Has so far happened twice. Emailed L-Twoo last week and have yet to hear back
https://youtube.com/shorts/1CciDVTh-U0?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/1CciDVTh-U0?feature=share)
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
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Maybe my unit is lucky because I get caught in the rain a couple of times and it's still flawlessly working. Tho I'll be changing the groupset to 105 Di2 because I wanted a more reliable brand and I'll be using the LTwoo as a placeholder for my next project which is a Gravel bike until I score myself some SRAM Force or Rival
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The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
I don't really mind it, but have a slight preference toward the shimano styled shifters. Sensah style is not perfect either with that super long not-so-precise push for going up 1 or 2 times ;) .
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Maybe my unit is lucky because I get caught in the rain a couple of times and it's still flawlessly working. Tho I'll be changing the groupset to 105 Di2 because I wanted a more reliable brand and I'll be using the LTwoo as a placeholder for my next project which is a Gravel bike until I score myself some SRAM Force or Rival
Sounds reasonable. The more I read about these problems with Ltwoo, the more I am happy with my purchase of the Rival (aliexpress) + GX (bike-discount) AXS combo for the Ti gravel project. Almost at the same price than the Ltwoo offering.
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The mechanical ones work fine, at least the RX12. But yeah, really disappointing how much the electronic ones fail
I'm really hoping Wheeltop or a future Sensah electronic groupset offer reliable competition. As far as I'm concerned LTwoo has dropped the ball for being an alternative electronic groupset.
I don't really mind it, but have a slight preference toward the shimano styled shifters. Sensah style is not perfect either with that super long not-so-precise push for going up 1 or 2 times ;) .
Same here I also prefer Shimano style shifting, but I've grown rather fond of Sensah shifting. The brake levers can be adjusted to be placed closer to the bars, allowing for an easier shifting throw. Also I feel Sensah shifts a bit smoother in the lower gears compared to Shimano. I would get the Sensah HRD shfiters, but I have a couple of hydro Ultegra shifters laying around I've been too lazy to install! ;D
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The thumb shifter is something ... well, you like it or hate it, I guess. ::).
With all the rear derailleur failures, my brain clearly says "no way". It's pretty bad, they must have underestimated the power of splashing water.
Yeah, who would have thought that there are people that use their bike when it rains... They could have never predicted that kind of abuse... ::)
If you design a derailleur it should even work submerged...
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Yeah, who would have thought that there are people that use their bike when it rains... They could have never predicted that kind of abuse... ::)
If you design a derailleur it should even work submerged...
Rain and washing the bike are absolutely crazy things :D.
Well, a short submersion should have no impact, but I wouldn't demand it to be fine with hours of diving.
It's a challenge to run electronic stuff in the environment. But it's not impossible. I never had issues with my di2 due to water.
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I've done around 1000k on er9 now. About 250k since I sealed the cable plug on the RD with silicon grease. It's been working flawlessly ever since. I did another wet ride and washed the bike after. No problems. I haven't done anything to the plug on the FD because I don't think that there's an issue with that connection. Ever since the latest FD firmware update the trimming function works a bit better, too. I'm quite happy with it, for the money anyway. So far, that is. :)
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Rain and washing the bike are absolutely crazy things :D.
Well, a short submersion should have no impact, but I wouldn't demand it to be fine with hours of diving.
It's a challenge to run electronic stuff in the environment. But it's not impossible. I never had issues with my di2 due to water.
Well, there is always the chance you end up in a stream or puddle up to the shins. I would expect a derailleur to keep working in those conditions...
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I've done around 1000k on er9 now. About 250k since I sealed the cable plug on the RD with silicon grease. It's been working flawlessly ever since. I did another wet ride and washed the bike after. No problems. I haven't done anything to the plug on the FD because I don't think that there's an issue with that connection. Ever since the latest FD firmware update the trimming function works a bit better, too. I'm quite happy with it, for the money anyway. So far, that is. :)
I've read your post on here the silicone grease might be the solution to protecting the RD. Still sucks though that LTwoo hasn't designed a better solution. Now someone else is having cold issues with the shifters. Maybe 2024 will be the year that all the kinks get ironed out?
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My new er9 on my alloy bike.
Was about to sell that bike and buy a "fancier" one instead. But all i needed was elecronic shifting.
The RD cable solution is ugly for now since i cant internally route it. Thought about drilling a hole into the chainstay but i'd rather not.
I love and hate it. Hate because now i have to turn my TT bike into electronic shifting with a frankenstein sram force / shimano setup. After my first ride on the blue bike I'm totally sold on electronic.
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Well, there is always the chance you end up in a stream or puddle up to the shins. I would expect a derailleur to keep working in those conditions...
And tell me ..... what is the difference from your writing to what i wrote?? Short immersion. Or do you plan to rest in a puddle?
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And tell me ..... what is the difference from your writing to what i wrote?? Short immersion. Or do you plan to rest in a puddle?
No difference ;) Just to clarify that I did not mean that you should be able to use it in a swimming pool
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It should survive a dunk in the pool! Pretty sure both AXS and Di2 are IPX7 rated (1m depth for 30 minutes) and Ive never had or heard of a water ingress issue on either. Have like 30,000+ miles on the AXS group on my gravel bike with zero failures. It gets pressure washed too. That is a really big difference vs. adding in some grease. Seems like Ltwoo needs some serious design to work to get there.
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
Not sure. But I think it's the crash mode. And the option in the app is probably really only there to disengage crash mode after it has automatically been engaged due to, well, a crash for instance.
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Hello I have contacted LTWOO without response, There was a question: if anyone figured out yet what the “Gear protection” options in the LTWOO application actually is?
Purpose is to prevent your drivetrain from crosschaining. If you are on the big gear at the front, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 lowest gear. Same if you are on the small ring, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 highest gear
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Purpose is to prevent your drivetrain from crosschaining. If you are on the big gear at the front, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 lowest gear. Same if you are on the small ring, you won't be able to shift your rear to the last 2 highest gear
Perfect for people who've accidentally cut their chain one link too short!
Side note, there's a ridiculous sale for the ER9 groupset on AliExpress, 600 AUD!
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Perfect for people who've accidentally cut their chain one link too short!
Side note, there's a ridiculous sale for the ER9 groupset on AliExpress, 600 AUD!
Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
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Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
That's exactly what I thought.
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Probably because they're about to start selling stock of a significantly revised version ...
There will be a new iteration of ERX coming in Q1 2024:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSE-cr2lAd0
See from around 7:00 in this video. LTWOO will be holding a launch event.
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Hiall. With regard to the RD connector, I have sealed this with heat shrink tubing. Let’s see how this works. This is my 3rd RD. Works as a charm again. Hopefully three is the lucky number.
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There will be a new iteration of ERX coming in Q1 2024:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSE-cr2lAd0
See from around 7:00 in this video. LTWOO will be holding a launch event.
Presumably the revised electronic gravel hoods we saw pics of a while ago, and derailleurs with seals, for both road and gravel.
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I hope the stuff stays backwards compatible + I hope it is possible to buy individual parts somewhere.
So if something breaks a few years down the line you don't need to get a whole groupset. When I bought er9 I tried to buy the groupset without the calipers since I knew I wasn't gonna use them. But no seller was willing to sell anything but a full groupset.
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Pulled the trigger on er9 today, found on ali from the ltwoo official store , winter sale ends 1/12 for $406.18 US + tax, total $439.69 shipped sans box and battery. Purchased zitto 11-34 colorful 12 speed cassette and kmc 12 speed chain as well. Will run 1X with 48T Crank (but have 48/35 2X if I choose later) .
Was really hoping GRX would be out by now but seems still having issues with that.
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I, now have a point of comparison as I already installed my Shimano 105 Di2. Pressing the shifters with Shimano is much better since there is a feedback and has more tactility compared to LTwoo which feels like linear when you are pressing those shifters. In terms of shifting performance of RD and FD, I feel Shimano is much better because it's like you are shifting with mechanical (almost no delays) and more quieter than LTwoo. Now I see why LTwoo is much cheaper because Shimano has a much better hardware and software. Also has a much better integration with my head unit (Garmin) because my unit always detects low battery on my LTwoo. Braking feels much better with Shimano. LTwoo's brake caliper is shit
Now, I am trying to sell my LTwoo Er9 if anyone's interested because I need funds. (I plan on not selling for my Gravel bike project but I really need funds right now)
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Where I live in Europe, an er9 upgrade kit is still only two thirds of the price of the cheapest offerings for 105 Di2. For that money I think it’s a good offering (if you’re ready for some tinkering, that is - as with most cheap D2C stuff from China). But if that gap narrows considerably, I think I’d definitely go with Shimano.
As for battery life: I got around 750k out of the first charge. Some of it was in ERG mode on the trainer, though. So no shifting.
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I got my 105 Di2 upgrade kit in AliExpress for a price of LTwoo ErX. I think that is a pretty good deal already.
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I got my 105 Di2 upgrade kit in AliExpress for a price of LTwoo ErX. I think that is a pretty good deal already.
Sure. But for me at least part of going the Shimano or Sram route would be a more reliable warranty process, should any issue arise. Not sure I'd get that from Aliexpress.
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Finally installed my ER9 after sitting on it for a month. Smooth installation with no issues, the calipers actually seem pretty good quality with the ceramic pistons.
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Pulled the trigger on er9 today, found on ali from the ltwoo official store , winter sale ends 1/12 for $406.18 US + tax, total $439.69 shipped sans box and battery. Purchased zitto 11-34 colorful 12 speed cassette and kmc 12 speed chain as well. Will run 1X with 48T Crank (but have 48/35 2X if I choose later) .
Let us know how you go with er9 and the Zitto, I used the Zitto for a Ltwoo mechanical build and it wasn’t great, always had issues with the middle gear……I changed the cassette to a sram which worked amazing, shifting now is crisppppp
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I've just spent 6 days riding out to watch each stage of the Tour Down Under with my full AliExpress build, including er9 12 speed set up. 600km and 7000m of climbing and it didn't miss a beat. Still no rides in the wet but given other reported issues I added silicone around where the cables plug in to enhance the waterproofing.
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
I don't think that's possible. The (very brief) manual also doesn't mention anything AFAIK. Maybe this could be implemented in a future update of the companion app?
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I might have missed it somewhere but how do we check the battery level of the shifters? (Cr2032)
I don't seem to see it displayed anywhere?
The app only reports the derailleur battery level.
if i recall correctly, the light on the shifters turn red when battery is at like 20%?
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What bleeding kits does everyone use with their LTWoo groupsets? My kit doesn't fit the callipers and no store in town has a fitting kit.
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I bought the full ezmtb bleed kits from AliExpress and they had the adapters.
IIRC some YouTubers mentioned that ltwoo requires sram style adapters.
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Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
SG$13.86 30%OFF | LTWOO L-TWOO Hydraulic Brake Bleed Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oEoeLSc
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
Seems to work on my end at least from the USA:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101522220 (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101522220)
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Just in case it helps, there is also 80 Designer Store, which generally has better prices than LTWOO Official Store. For example, I'm seeing eR9 No Box No Battery for US$ 464 for at the former while US$514 at the latter. (I have no idea about their shipping policies though.)
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Yes, 80 store usually has better price, but with the current sale, er9 is down to 414USD from LTWOO via choice. That would have been a sweet deal with the 50USD coupon.
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Hi guys, am I the only one that can't access the LTWOO official store on Ali? It seems that we can see items from them but only through Choice Store (concept from Ali). The reason I am asking is that the er9 is on sale through Choice, but it won't ship to Canada.
Yeah I have this problem too in Canada. I noticed the price from the LTWOO official store is substantially lower than any other, so that's too bad.
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So I finally got the matching bleeding kit and got around to bleeding the brakes. Rear brake went completely smooth - was done in 5 minutes or so.
Front brake however - it seems like the brifter is leaking air somewhere, when I pull on a brake lever, there's a sloshing noise, similar to sound you get when you are pushing in a water bottle. The sound is coming from the top of brifter, both the oil and air screws are fully tightened. Any ideas what could be the issue? Don't have a video at the moment, apologies.
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I’ve pulled the trigger on the eR9 groupset, do you guys know if we can swap the pulley on the rear derailleur for an oversized one? And if yes wich one to your knowledge.
Looking foward to try the eR9. I have the RX mechanical and no issue with it.
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I’ve pulled the trigger on the eR9 groupset, do you guys know if we can swap the pulley on the rear derailleur for an oversized one? And if yes wich one to your knowledge.
Looking foward to try the eR9. Imalsi have the RX mecanical and no issue with it.
I believe LTwoo and Sensah rivet on their pulley cages so they're non-removable. At best you might be able to get away with 12t and 14t jockey wheels with the stock cage. I use these POM jockey wheels from Fovno with steel bearings on my gravel bike. They spin smooth with no issues even with mud and dirt:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html)
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So I finally got the matching bleeding kit and got around to bleeding the brakes. Rear brake went completely smooth - was done in 5 minutes or so.
Front brake however - it seems like the brifter is leaking air somewhere, when I pull on a brake lever, there's a sloshing noise, similar to sound you get when you are pushing in a water bottle. The sound is coming from the top of brifter, both the oil and air screws are fully tightened. Any ideas what could be the issue? Don't have a video at the moment, apologies.
Oh, I mine had this issue too. I needed to replace the olive (where you connect the hydraulic hose to the shifter) and that fixed the problem. Hopefully you can figure it out soon.
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I'll post more eventually, but i bought 5 er9, i've installed 4 so far, ridden 1 over 5 rides (300+km) and i LOVE it. The app is great, calibration is easy, and you can fit 11-34T. Being able to switch between 11 and 12s in app is amazing.
Battery & cables (w/o the 2x14500 batteries). 50g
Shifters (pair) 453g. There's oil inside, as well as batteries.
RD 297g
FD 143g
Brakes w housing 351g. You end up cutting 20-40cm of housing, can't weigh much. There's oil inside.
Hardware 72g (using 160mm mounts). Subject to which bolts you use though.
Together: 1386g assuming 2 batteries weigh 20g.
I didn't buy the right bleed tool originally (ZMTB), and given there's oil in both the shifters and the housing, so far i've gotten away without bleeding the brakes, they work fine out of the box.
I used the video from Klein Concept on Youtube as a guide. Great dude.
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I have now done around 1.500 km with my er9 groupset. I had one single incident during a ride where I experienced lagging shifting with my RD where I had to push the button twice or three times to shift. I sealed the cable plug at the RD with silicone grease. I did nothing to the FD. It has been working fine ever since. After some minor tweaking here and there it does now shift very nicely. I’m very pleased with it. IMO for the money it’s a no brainer. At least in Germany I got it for around 2/3 of the price of the cheapest offering for 105Di2.
So my verdict is: I’d probably buy it again for that kind of money. BUT I dunno how it compares to 12sp Di2 or Sram Etap AXS. Never ridden any of them.
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I believe LTwoo and Sensah rivet on their pulley cages so they're non-removable. At best you might be able to get away with 12t and 14t jockey wheels with the stock cage. I use these POM jockey wheels from Fovno with steel bearings on my gravel bike. They spin smooth with no issues even with mud and dirt:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850728680.html)
After I’ve checked on my rx mechanical derailleur its defenetly a set screw.
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I can unscrew the jockey wheels on my ER9. The jockey wheel is narrow wide so you need to feed the chain right otherwise it doesn't work. I'm not sure it helps with shifting to have that profile. It took me a while to realize that, hence i almost changed the pulley wheel itself before realizing i was just being thick.
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I can unscrew the jockey wheels on my ER9. The jockey wheel is narrow wide so you need to feed the chain right otherwise it doesn't work. I'm not sure it helps with shifting to have that profile. It took me a while to realize that, hence i almost changed the pulley wheel itself before realizing i was just being thick.
I guess the question was about exchanging the complete cage and not the jockey wheels. They should be replacable as they are aging and at some point must be replaced.
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Has anyone found any replacement parts yet, things like hoods for example.
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
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Is crash protection on the app on or off?
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
Do you have the version of the battery that holds batteries with tabs or springs? It's been established that the tabs version led to problems, vs i'm unaware of problems with the springs version. I would start there, because if you have the tabs version, contact LTWOO and get a springs version. The battery housing weighs nothing so shipping it to you should be super cheap for them. And in the meantime, you can add shims to increase the pressure / tension on the system.
It is unlikely that any of your group is broken, stuff typically doesnt randomly breaks just like that, especially when it's new and you weren't doing anything weird with it.
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Is crash protection on the app on or off?
Thanks for your feedback. I checked settings in the App and "Gear Protection" was "OFF." I switched it "ON" and nothing changed. The RD still makes a movement sound, but no movement. The App thinks it is in gear 10. when I try to switch up or down, the App jumps to the gear, but then switches back to gear 10 when the RD motor stops.
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Do you have the version of the battery that holds batteries with tabs or springs? It's been established that the tabs version led to problems, vs i'm unaware of problems with the springs version. I would start there, because if you have the tabs version, contact LTWOO and get a springs version. The battery housing weighs nothing so shipping it to you should be super cheap for them. And in the meantime, you can add shims to increase the pressure / tension on the system.
It is unlikely that any of your group is broken, stuff typically doesnt randomly breaks just like that, especially when it's new and you weren't doing anything weird with it.
Thanks Serge_K. I have the battery with the springs version insert. I hope you are right, and nothing is broken. I am trying to exercise warranty through "LTWOO Official Store" on Aliexpress, but so far no luck.
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I've installed 5 ER9 groups in the last 2 weeks. 1 gave me issues for some reason, but it was my fault. Make sure the limit screws are set properly, as well as the 3rd screw that sets the tension on the cage. The RD protects itself very quickly, so if any of the 3 screws are off, the cage wont shift. It's given me a new appreciation for my own incompetence and the fact that stuff usually works as long as it's installed and setup properly. During the builds i'm often thinking "this is such POS" but then an hour later, or a week later, i realize it's just me being incompetent / thick / tired.
Did you unplug and reset? battery's charged?
If you remove the wheel, does the RD shift? Are both FD & RD running the latest firmwares?
EDIT: setting the 3 screws and calibrating the gears (as well as the FD) is somewhat of an iterative process. If you change a limit screw, your calibration of the RD is likely to need updating. I wont pretend that I understand how everything affects everything, but the point is the moment you change the tension on 1 screw, there's a decent chance the rest of the system is affected. And if ONE thing is off, everything can be off, and the RD tends to protect itself and refuse shifting until it's happy with alignments and what not.
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I've installed 5 ER9 groups in the last 2 weeks. 1 gave me issues for some reason, but it was my fault. Make sure the limit screws are set properly, as well as the 3rd screw that sets the tension on the cage. The RD protects itself very quickly, so if any of the 3 screws are off, the cage wont shift. It's given me a new appreciation for my own incompetence and the fact that stuff usually works as long as it's installed and setup properly. During the builds i'm often thinking "this is such POS" but then an hour later, or a week later, i realize it's just me being incompetent / thick / tired.
Did you unplug and reset? battery's charged?
If you remove the wheel, does the RD shift? Are both FD & RD running the latest firmwares?
I second that. I've found that as soon as the RD's motor will experience excessive vibration or resistance it will stop shifting and/or shift back to it's original position. For instance, it avoided the big big chainring/casette sprocket combo when I had the RD's upper pulley set up too close to the cassette. It didn't touch. But the vibrations alone caused it to immediately shift back as soon as it went into that gear. A short tweak of the b-screw and the issue stopped.
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Has anyone found any replacement parts yet, things like hoods for example.
80 Designer Store has now put an eR9 RD listing. I am guessing we will start to see more replacement parts listed up on AliExpress.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806373886040.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806373886040.html)
edit: They also already had cables, battery holder/box and charger listed for quite a while.
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If using the silicone grease method to protect the RD cable, has the ER9/ERX groupset gone through enough manufacturing revisions to be recommended (by users on here)? It looks like most of the kinks have been ironed out and if the silicone grease does indeed enhance weather protection, one could just buy a backup battery/cable set off 80 Design Store for $20 USD and the rest of the components should be solid.
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What about the heat shrink tubes? They are waterproof and they sure protect from water entering the RD?
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The cable plugs into a slight indent. I don't think there's enough space for shrink wrap to work properly.
I coat liquid electrical tape around the indent to form a waterproof seal and it's been solid.
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My eRX Rear Derailleur stops working during ride. Anybody have a fix?
One hour into ride, rear derailleur “crashed” in gear 12. Derailleur would not come out of 12th gear. There was noise coming from the derailleur, but no movement. Front derailleur kept working.
When I plugged the charger onto the derailleur, nothing changed. It will not come out of 12th gear so I can't recalibrate via the App. Front derailleur still working.
Is there something I can do? Do I need a new rear derailleur?
Thank you for your help!
Did you work this out?
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
Try https://www.nkon.nl/ for batteries
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Because i'm intellectually challenged, i went for a ride and the battery of the er9 died on me. Folks, don't forget to charge your group regularly, please be smarter than me :)
I am not using the original l-twoo batteries because of problems with shipping lithium internationally, so i bought what i found, and the capacity of the cells i found is SHIT. Therefore, i think i can get 500km autonomy or so. This is, afaik, the lithium's fault, not l-twoo's fault. Charge your group very regularly, it's quick to do, but no juicy, no sexy. Was a flat ride, was ok. In the mountains, it would have sucked hard.
Does anyone know if there's a garmin data field with the battery indicator of the er9/erx group?
It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
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It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
This is genius. I went out without charging the groupset after a few months off the bike, and it was fine for the first 40km until the cafe, close to the cafe the FD and RD were getting slow on shifting (FD wouldnt shift the whole way, RD would take 2-3 presses to react), I set the gears to a manageable gear and then everything died on the way back. Would've saved me if I did this.
I did see that I had 4% battery life left before I left so it was my fault.
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This is genius. I went out without charging the groupset after a few months off the bike, and it was fine for the first 40km until the cafe, close to the cafe the FD and RD were getting slow on shifting (FD wouldnt shift the whole way, RD would take 2-3 presses to react), I set the gears to a manageable gear and then everything died on the way back. Would've saved me if I did this.
I did see that I had 4% battery life left before I left so it was my fault.
Honestly, this is some of the few small things that keeps me from going away from eR9/eRX. For comparison, Shimano's charging cable is bulkier and probably takes much more space in my saddle bag if I want to do the same strategy.
All the flexibility that comes with LTWOO are so user friendly, from the variable 10-12 speed, user replaceable battery, individual gear indexing, air vent for bleeding, great app for on-the-fly adjustments. I know Shimano/SRAM may already have most, if not all of these, but considering I can get eR9 for a fraction of the price (they are now even much cheaper compared to launch price and I got my second eR9 for $380 after tax), I am now a happy user. I am hoping the second and third generation of eR9/eRX would solve all the issues users are currently having. By then, I would not hesitate to recommend the groupset to others.
It's actually somewhat impressive that they managed to do all these in their first generation product, while avoiding all the patent minefield left by Shimano/SRAM.
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It happens to the best of us! I now carry the USB charger cable with a USB C to A converter, so I can quickly top up just enough to get me home/anywhere to stop and charge using only my phone. Both the cable and USB converter are so compact I can easily shove them in my saddle bag.
Wait, whaaaat? I got to try this. I was thinking of maybe carrying a small battery pack, but if the phone can charge it, then F*** yeah Matt Damon!
Thank you!
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Wait, whaaaat? I got to try this. I was thinking of maybe carrying a small battery pack, but if the phone can charge it, then F*** yeah Matt Damon!
Thank you!
Yep! Worked for me the other day. You probably want to make sure you enable USB OTG setting in whatever phone you are using. Though I bet most phones these days come with OTG enabled by default.
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I too bought aftermarket batteries because I purchased the groupset without them. I am now at roughly 9000 shifts according to the app (although I'm not sure if this has been reset somewhere along the way when doing firmware updates). I've clocked around 1700km on this groupset and I've just charged it for the second time like 100km ago. So I think it's roughly on par with Sram AXS groups when it comes to batter life.
What is slightly annoying is that while the battery level is correctly displayed in the app, I still get a low battery level warning every time the groupset connects to my Wahoo when starting a ride. It's a bug that apparently still hasn't been fixed. Unless one of you guys knows something I don't?
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I too bought aftermarket batteries because I purchased the groupset without them. I am now at roughly 9000 shifts according to the app (although I'm not sure if this has been reset somewhere along the way when doing firmware updates). I've clocked around 1700km on this groupset and I've just charged it for the second time like 100km ago. So I think it's roughly on par with Sram AXS groups when it comes to batter life.
What is slightly annoying is that while the battery level is correctly displayed in the app, I still get a low battery level warning every time the groupset connects to my Wahoo when starting a ride. It's a bug that apparently still hasn't been fixed. Unless one of you guys knows something I don't?
I've got the same issue on my Garmin. Shows up as low battery but the battery indicator is correct when I put it on my screen. What size battery did you get? I find I can only get about 300-400km before needing to recharge, I have 2x1000mah 14500 batteries in mine.
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Vapcell f12 works well for me. You would want something that is high capacity and low self discharge.
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I got 2x800mAh units for around 13EUR which according to the shop are slightly more premium quality. They’re from a company called PATONA. Not on e of those generic blue ones. But what do I know? All I can say is they’re working well for me. Also, whenever I did charge my groupset, it still had 16-20% of battery capacity left. So I probably could have gone further.
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Honestly, this is some of the few small things that keeps me from going away from eR9/eRX. For comparison, Shimano's charging cable is bulkier and probably takes much more space in my saddle bag if I want to do the same strategy.
All the flexibility that comes with LTWOO are so user friendly, from the variable 10-12 speed, user replaceable battery, individual gear indexing, air vent for bleeding, great app for on-the-fly adjustments. I know Shimano/SRAM may already have most, if not all of these, but considering I can get eR9 for a fraction of the price (they are now even much cheaper compared to launch price and I got my second eR9 for $380 after tax), I am now a happy user. I am hoping the second and third generation of eR9/eRX would solve all the issues users are currently having. By then, I would not hesitate to recommend the groupset to others.
It's actually somewhat impressive that they managed to do all these in their first generation product, while avoiding all the patent minefield left by Shimano/SRAM.
where are you getting the er9 for $380?
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where are you getting the er9 for $380?
It was a few months ago when AliExpress and 80 Designer Store both had coupon discounts. It was too tempting to miss, so I decided to buy the set for another bike I plan to build for my wife. Nowadays, you can find eR9 for ~ $400 during discount days, which happens quite frequently it seems. Early this month, it was selling for $400.
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It was a few months ago when AliExpress and 80 Designer Store both had coupon discounts. It was too tempting to miss, so I decided to buy the set for another bike I plan to build for my wife. Nowadays, you can find eR9 for ~ $400 during discount days, which happens quite frequently it seems. Early this month, it was selling for $400.
Best I've seen is $400 during one of those discount days, and then using an AliExpress $50 off $350 code (which happens once every few months), so $350 pre-tax.
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Not really worth a vid, IMO. I pulled the plug, applied silicone grease in the slot where the plug sits and put it back in. It takes literally less than a minute. I washed the bike thoroughly yesterday and did spray water onto the RD and the plug deliberately. No issues. You could probably even use silicone sealant for a more permanent solution. The flakes everywhere on the pic are just little pieces of wax from the chain.
Still debating about getting this groupset but concern about the water proofing. So the silicone grease goes inside the connectors?
I was thinking of applying silcone gasket maker on the outside of the connector instead in inside https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-35-oz/
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Still debating about getting this groupset but concern about the water proofing. So the silicone grease goes inside the connectors?
I was thinking of applying silcone gasket maker on the outside of the connector instead in inside https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-35-oz/
You don't want to put it inside the plug or get it on the connector pins. It's really only there to fill the space between the plug and the socket to keep water from getting in there. So you put it round the outside of the plug and then you plug it in and wipe of the excess and you're done.
Like I said, I believe you only need to do it on the RD. Since the socket is upside down on the FD the chance of water ingress is practically zero.
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so it sounds more like a tolerance issue with the connectors. It doesn't look like the Shimano e-tubes have a seal on them at least not easily seen in pictures.
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etube take quite a bit of force to connect, especially the new SD300 on 12S stuff.
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I've got the same issue on my Garmin. Shows up as low battery but the battery indicator is correct when I put it on my screen. What size battery did you get? I find I can only get about 300-400km before needing to recharge, I have 2x1000mah 14500 batteries in mine.
Can I ask how did you paired your erx with your garmin computer?
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Can I ask how did you paired your erx with your garmin computer?
I just added it as Di2/Electronic Shifting and it showed up.
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I have received my er9 groupset, unfortunately my front derailleur doesnt work. I want to update the firmware but it doesnt go past 1 percent. Anybody who has a clue?
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Do you have batteries in the battery? I found that it needed more power than just plug in the cable.
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Do you have batteries in the battery? I found that it needed more power than just plug in the cable.
I have batteries in the battery
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I have batteries in the battery
Make sure the batteries are fully charged, disconnect reconnect everything, make sure stuff is paired properly. If you left shifter is paired with the FD, you can make it shift without using the app. Whatever firmware version you have, you should be able to shift up / down before / without updating it. If the firmware update doesnt go through, try on another phone? Basically, methodically try to eliminate all possible user errors. Pretty much every time i have a problem with anything, ultimately i realize it was my fault / mistake.
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I can confirm with the latest firmware update, the trim options are now more refined. The front derailleur will decide the best trim position. I also noticed that they have fixed the incorrect gear selection showing up on Wahoo. It was showing 12 speed when in fact I was on 11 speed cassette. I cannot confirm if this is also fixed on any other head unit. It is still showing that the battery is low even when fully charged. Hopefully they will fix this on the next update. Well, it looks like LTWOO is certainly working on making the groupset better and better. Kudos to them!
I think what LTWOO should do is to allow users to manually set a two steps shift, by allowing users to manually configure the sequence of shifts, it would avoid shimano copyrights issues.
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I just added it as Di2/Electronic Shifting and it showed up.
I can confirm that it also works with Wahoo although the display is somewhat lagging...
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Just did my first semi-wet ride after installing my 2nd rear derailleur (after 2 months of not being able to use it). This time with dielectric grease on both derailleurs.
First ride, and the shifting was incredible. So far no issues with the grease. Hopefully this derailleur will survive the weather in the Netherlands.
Ltwoo was helpful with their customer support, however the process of confirming the issue, and shipping the new derailleur took a sizable amount of time.
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...This time with dielectric grease on both derailleurs...
I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
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I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
The number one issue (and admittedly my only one) is water ingress. On my first set, after the first ride, I already started having issues. Note that I live in the enticingly moist Netherlands. After ride nr 5, I decided to add duct tape to the connections, which temporarily seemed to resolve all issues, until the 31st of Dec, when the rear derailleur died on me mid-ride.
The duct tape is not a full fix, and I personally only have one ride with the dielectric grease setup, but the latter solution seems to work for many people having this set.
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I'm planning to build my e-gravel with this group.
Would you mind to explain the known issue(s) of the group, as there are already 30+ pages.
The "dielectric grease" intrigued me ???
You need to somehow seal the plug at the RD to make it 100% waterproof. Otherwise you’re definitely gonna have issues. Silicone grease worked for me. Silicone sealant or Teflon tape could work as well, I guess. Other than that I had zero issues so far. This seems to be the most common problem.
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I use this around the RD connector.
125/50/30ML Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape Waterproof UV Protection Tube Paste Fast Rubber Fixed Dry Insulating Sealing Glue
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oBAVJdM
Have hosed down my bike several times with no issues.
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Is it possible to disconnect the connector if necessary wenn you use this glue?
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Just use a light coating. It tears off when you pull.
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Hello everyone, since yesterday I am the owner of the Ltwoo ER9 group and I have a question for the distinguished group about trimming - how does it work in your sets? It works fine on a small countertop, but on a large countertop it's like magic for me
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Hello everyone, since yesterday I am the owner of the Ltwoo ER9 group and I have a question for the distinguished group about trimming - how does it work in your sets? It works fine on a small countertop, but on a large countertop it's like magic for me
The app is great for calibration. you start by upgrading the FD & RD firmware, choose the number of gears you're running, and then you play with the app to fine tune everything. It's much more pleasant that using cables, especially the FD.
There's a useful function that prevents cross chaining (the last 2 cogs on each end of the cassette). With that, either i dont need to trim, or it's trimming on its own.
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Ok, thank you for the advice, and is it also the case that if the chain is on a small tabletop, you can use one half-speed, and if on a large tabletop, you have as many as four of these half-speeds at your disposal?
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Ok, thank you for the advice, and is it also the case that if the chain is on a small tabletop, you can use one half-speed, and if on a large tabletop, you have as many as four of these half-speeds at your disposal?
I don't really need the trim feature as I never really get chain rub. I use the "gear protection" feature to avoid cross chaining so the RD will avoid the two most extreme opposite gears of the respective chainring. The way I understand the trim feature is that whenever you press the button of the chainring that you're already in, the FD will reposition itself depending on the gear you're in at the back. So the more extreme you're cross chaining, the bigger the adjustment that the FD will make if you use the trim feature. But that's just my observation.
But like I said: Since I never get chain rub, I don't really bother to use the trim feature. I just shift the front when I have to.
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everything works :) precise adjustment of the front derailleur again eliminated the problem (very precise setting was the key to success). The half-speed gears work properly, but it's a pity that they are not automatic like in Shimano, they have to be corrected manually by pressing a button. Maybe the next update will introduce such an option. Thank you very much for help
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You need to somehow seal the plug at the RD to make it 100% waterproof. Otherwise you’re definitely gonna have issues. Silicone grease worked for me. Silicone sealant or Teflon tape could work as well, I guess. Other than that I had zero issues so far. This seems to be the most common problem.
Oh okay that means there is no updated Version of from LTWOO to solve this problem.
Can not understand why they didn´t update the sealing to stop this problems.
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everything works :) precise adjustment of the front derailleur again eliminated the problem (very precise setting was the key to success). The half-speed gears work properly, but it's a pity that they are not automatic like in Shimano, they have to be corrected manually by pressing a button. Maybe the next update will introduce such an option. Thank you very much for help
It used to be automatic. LTWOO had to remove that feature due to an infringement of Shimano's patent, it appears. So I doubt it'll happen anytime soon.
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Oh okay that means there is no updated Version of from LTWOO to solve this problem.
Can not understand why they didn´t update the sealing to stop this problems.
It seems that there's an update to this groupset underway. So maybe they will address the issue.
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4MstiMqJiU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4MstiMqJiU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Thanks for the info.
So now will battle of price between ERx and EDS.
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It will be interesting to see how LTwoo manages the release of the new version
I also hope it's available on Ali before the next big sale this month
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New version looks a lot better. Particularly the calipers. Hopefully all of this will be simultaneously added to the gravel version.
I think this revision will probably pressure Wheeltop to lower prices a touch.
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EGR now available on the L-Twoo AliEx Choice store:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006636427506.html
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
Wish I could get those updated calipers for my GR9 groupset.
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
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Paid 406 for er9 couple of months ago and paid 432 for GRX yesterday + 101 for Zitto 11-46 12 speed cassette and chain, for gravel bike...will update when received and installed.
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Short review of the updated ERX version from ChinaCycling.
youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-Jat7ZmGQ
So seemingly there’s absolutely no update on the cable port design on the derailleurs? That surprises me. I’m curious whether the waterproofing issues have been fixed.
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They mention the eGR having no issue with waterproofing, I believe that the learnings would be transferred to the road groupset?
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
Why? Cheapest 105 di that i can find costs around 750USD, it's 35% more than ER9, and with shimano you don't have shifting customization, like adjustment to each cassette cog and various cassette speed. You literally get 105 di2 equivalent with a price 35% cheaper, and some risk of sudden death.
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how much have you guys actually paid for ER9? I'm seeing 475 which imo is still not that good of a deal
Around 450€ with tax (thanks to the declared value of 70€ ;D ), also paid roughly 160€ for crankset, 70-ish for Ultegra 11 speed cassette and also bought Sram rotors.
It might look expensive compared to 105 Di2, but 105 groupset costs 1000€ + I'd have to sell stock crank and buy new one (because Shimano doesn't pair 165mm crank arms with their groupsets), replace rotors with Sram or Hope (don't trust Shimano Shite tech rotors), running costs of 12 speed group are higher too
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They mention the eGR having no issue with waterproofing, I believe that the learnings would be transferred to the road groupset?
True. eGR seems to be sufficiently waterproof. I wonder what they did to fix it, though. Tighter tolerances? Is the difference in the cables and plugs. If yes, could 1st gen users just buy new cables? I mean, I really don't have any issues with er9. But it would be good to know.
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I've ordered the e-gr groupset but now I'm a bit confused. The graphic on the AliExpress listing (official ltwoo) says max 50t. Trace velo seems to be running a 50t. All the official website comms and the user manual says max 46t.
Which is true? I need the 50t capacity.
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I've ordered the e-gr groupset but now I'm a bit confused. The graphic on the AliExpress listing (official ltwoo) says max 50t. Trace velo seems to be running a 50t. All the official website comms and the user manual says max 46t.
Which is true? I need the 50t capacity.
They most likely say 46t to play it safe with tolerances. Even the big brands are known to be conservative on their max capacity numbers. It may not work in all situations with a 50t, so they say 46 max.
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True. eGR seems to be sufficiently waterproof. I wonder what they did to fix it, though. Tighter tolerances? Is the difference in the cables and plugs. If yes, could 1st gen users just buy new cables? I mean, I really don't have any issues with er9. But it would be good to know.
I wonder if everything is backwards compatible between the 1st gen ER9/X and blue edition? Also did the latest batch of ER9/ERX get the blue edition weatherproof fixes? I wish LTwoo was more transparent about the changes. I think Wheeltop and Sensah should still try to win marketshare in the Chinese electronic groupset market. Internal competition should keep LTwoo in-check especially if the competition offers a more solid product with better customer service.
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Around 450€ with tax (thanks to the declared value of 70€ ;D ), also paid roughly 160€ for crankset, 70-ish for Ultegra 11 speed cassette and also bought Sram rotors.
It might look expensive compared to 105 Di2, but 105 groupset costs 1000€ + I'd have to sell stock crank and buy new one (because Shimano doesn't pair 165mm crank arms with their groupsets), replace rotors with Sram or Hope (don't trust Shimano Shite tech rotors), running costs of 12 speed group are higher too
That was a huge miscalculation on my part, I assumed drivetrain was more expensive. I thought the bare minimum with YBN chain, senicx crankset and ZTTO cassette would end up being ~850 for the groupset which is straight up uninteresting when you can have resale value, service and reliability of 105 for not much more. But individual trim, replacable battery and sleeping at night knowing you didn't give shitmano a cent make ltwoo an interesting option, too bad I built my bike just before it was anounced.
But how much can the ER9/ERX mech clear? It's rated for 32T and I know joe said 34T was fine but can it clear 36T? Also when you buy the "no battery" option, does this mean you still get the battery holder and have to buy the batteries yourself, or do you have to buy a battery case? And does anyone know if ER9 will be updated to "blue edition" at the same time as ERX?
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But how much can the ER9/ERX mech clear? It's rated for 32T and I know joe said 34T was fine but can it clear 36T?
I think officially it can only clear 32t. I'm using it with an 11-34 cassette and that's fine. Not sure if it can handle more. I think you could try and set it up with 11-36 but if the RD parallelogram curve then ends up with the upper pulley too far away from the cogs in the rest of the gears the shifting will suffer.
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I have 34t with no problem, think 36 t would work, or maybe with a roadlink.
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I don't have the groupset, I want to make sure it can take 36T before I buy. Do you still have room on the b screw?
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On the Er9 you can run 34T native, for 36T you need a small cage extender that costs 2 bucks on AliX. Dont buy the long ass one, that's for MTB cassettes.
You've guessed it, i've tried all these things 1st hand.
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They most likely say 46t to play it safe with tolerances. Even the big brands are known to be conservative on their max capacity numbers. It may not work in all situations with a 50t, so they say 46 max.
Confirmed 46t max. Am I right in thinking a hanger extender will allow me to use my 50t without issue?
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Where to buy Ltwoo eR9 for aroudn 400€?
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Where to buy Ltwoo eR9 for aroudn 400€?
AliX (80 designer store) is the answer. Right now at 532$ and at the checkout incl. VAT-discount, 18$ cupon and exchange rate to € i end up at that 400€ mark.
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Do not forget sales will start next week.
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Does anyone know if we can pair eGR with the front derailleur from eR9/eRX? I'd like to have 2x chainring at the front with eGR rear derailleur. The eGR shifter almost looks exactly the same as the new eRX shifter, with larger buttons.
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The template below was shared when talking to customer service.
That saved my bacon, thank you. Basically my group wasn't charged, I thought it was, it wasn't, the battery pack I've been using goes to sleep after a while and stops charging it seems. Anyway. Ofc my phone itself was nearly dead so I didn't manage to get much of a charge from it while on the road. Back home, the RD was stuck. Following that decision tree, all I had to do was reset the RD by pressing the RD button for 5-10 seconds (I had removed the chain), and then recalibrated the gears which took five minutes (chain back on obviously).
Be smarter than me people, make sure your group is charged...
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Do your front derailleur guides wear off the chain so quickly? I've traveled maybe 500 km and the derailleur slide looks bad. What will it be like when I've traveled 5,000 km? It's probably a hole right through. I'm very concerned about this
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I had a deal worked out with ltwoo regarding
Bring in to USA the electronic group set but they did not
Respond to providing me with a couple units for warranty exchange
For my USA based customers. The group set is great
And have it installed on 2 of my personal bikes
No problem with the set up and all went well..it now
Going on 1 and 1/2 years of full experience..
I'm glad you have yours working if I can help any one else
Be happy to.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
I've been thinking about this myself. With the "blue edition" around the corner, I have a feeling LTwoo is trying to off-load the remaining product before release of the updated model. Maybe if I was building up a new frame right now and wanted to save some money on the groupset, I might pull the trigger. If I was upgrading a current frame to electronic, I might wait for the new version to be released.
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What's the general feeling towards ltwoo erx in spring 2024? I've been tempted to pull the trigger on a number of occasions but too many of the YT influencers saying it's not a finished product, has inherent problems etc ( maybe ltwoo aren't paying them enough to endorse). Aliexpress have a sale this week, never been a better time to buy however I value reliability over anything.
If you value reliability over ANYTHING, then buy Shimano.
YouTubers often receive early units and they serve as beta testers. Bad strategy? These YouTubers had the battery with tabs and not springs, which caused most of the concerns.
Your concern over shilling is also warranted. Anybody who has a discount code on anything has an interest in you spending more, mathematically. And so if you don't see a discount code on l-twoo, they don't stand to benefit, which is worse. If they don't make money from it but then users report problems, then they just shit themselves in the foot twice.
I'm very happy with my 5 er9, but I kind of want them to fail to see what happens. I enjoy the tinkering and the grind of making my own bike infinitely more than buying off the shelf pre packaged branded stuff. Shimano for me is a patent troll and SRAM is the worst assemble of engineers in recent bike history, so I will get out of my way to try alternatives.
I still use a Shimano group on an old bike. That stuff will never die. You probably should buy Shimano if your key concern is reliability. L-twoo electric groups didn't exist a year ago. Nobody can tell you how they age long term. They may age like fine wine, they may age like Lindsay Lohan. Do you want modern day Lindsay Lohan on your bike?
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If you value reliability over ANYTHING, then buy Shimano.
YouTubers often receive early units and they serve as beta testers. Bad strategy? These YouTubers had the battery with tabs and not springs, which caused most of the concerns.
Your concern over shilling is also warranted. Anybody who has a discount code on anything has an interest in you spending more, mathematically. And so if you don't see a discount code on l-twoo, they don't stand to benefit, which is worse. If they don't make money from it but then users report problems, then they just shit themselves in the foot twice.
I'm very happy with my 5 er9, but I kind of want them to fail to see what happens. I enjoy the tinkering and the grind of making my own bike infinitely more than buying off the shelf pre packaged branded stuff. Shimano for me is a patent troll and SRAM is the worst assemble of engineers in recent bike history, so I will get out of my way to try alternatives.
I still use a Shimano group on an old bike. That stuff will never die. You probably should buy Shimano if your key concern is reliability. L-twoo electric groups didn't exist a year ago. Nobody can tell you how they age long term. They may age like fine wine, they may age like Lindsay Lohan. Do you want modern day Lindsay Lohan on your bike?
I have to agree with many of these. I am now already >5000km on my first eR9. I have to admit, almost half of which are indoor Zwift rides (don't blame me, I am a fair-weather rider and don't like to be miserable on the bike during winter). I got another set for my wife's bike. These days, with discount codes, you can almost buy two eR9s for a price of Shimano 105 Di2. That is just a no brainer for me when I want to maintain more than two bikes. It's also convenient to have "spare" parts on one bike if/when anything goes wrong on the other. Some stores on AE are now listing individual parts already.
I am actually thinking of getting another set for my commuter bike. Still trying to figure out if I should get eGR or eR9. I want to run 2x on eGR, but not sure if that works. I'd imagine if the firmware allows, it should be straightforward since everything else is identical. I do have an extra front derailleur to use, so that would be great.
I am hoping my eR9s would age like Lindsay Lohan on fine wine diet.
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Am I blind or there really is no rim brake version of ER?
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Am I blind or there really is no rim brake version of ER?
No rim brake version. Seems like Wheeltop is basically the only Chinese option for electronic and rim brake.
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AliX (80 designer store) is the answer. Right now at 532$ and at the checkout incl. VAT-discount, 18$ cupon and exchange rate to € i end up at that 400€ mark.
Today they have sales. at checkout the price was 372€.
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Do your front derailleur guides wear off the chain so quickly? I've traveled maybe 500 km and the derailleur slide looks bad. What will it be like when I've traveled 5,000 km? It's probably a hole right through. I'm very concerned about this
This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
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This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
I've got about 2000km on my ER9, only some scrapes on the FD guide.
Maybe the limit position is incorrectly set on OP's setup? Or he isn't hitting the trim button every couple of shifts?
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Looks like the chainline or the limits are not properly set. There shouldn't be rubbing during normal riding.
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end positions set correctly, there is no friction during normal driving, what you see in the photo was only caused by changing from a small top to a large top
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Also when you buy the "no battery" option, does this mean you still get the battery holder and have to buy the batteries yourself, or do you have to buy a battery case?
You buy the batteries yourself, everything else comes with the kit (battery holder, charger, wires). Also, my shifters came with the coin cell batteries installed, no need to purchase these.
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Given the choice with the current sale, would you go with ER9 or ERX? With the ER9 I could offset the weight adding a lightweight 12 speed cassette and 2x chainring. I've been thinking of going 12 speed 52-36/11-34t. If I opt for the ERX, I'd stay 50-34/11-32t. Either option would be priced the same with the discount codes.
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Er9, the weight difference is tiny
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I placed the order on Ali for the er9, with the 80$ discount code ( I needed a few other things so I did reach the 500$ order), the er9 came to 350 USD with 80 designer store. Shipped to Canada.
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This seems a bit concerning. Is anyone else seeing something similar?
This is my FD after roughly 2.500km of use. The finish wears away and there is this copper coloured layer below. Where the chain hits the cage, it’s basically polished down to the bare steel. But there’s no scrapes or ridges. So I think it’ll last. The black stuff is just wax. I’m not really concerned by these wear marks.
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I see that your FD base is also worn out after driving 2,500 km, and I cover about 10,000 km per season, so it's scary to think what it will look like after a year of use. I think that after 2 years the FD will need to be replaced and this will add up to additional costs
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I don't think I'd call that worn out. Maybe the pic makes it look worse than it looks in the flesh. It's really only the surface finish that's worn off. What looks like scrape marks is really only residue of wax and dirt. The metal itself is fine. But we'll see.
I got a Campy FD on my other bike that looks very similar. They put a sort of low friction coating on their FD cages to ease up front shifting. It wears off where the chain touches the cage which makes it look pretty horrible. But the thing is still fine after tens of thousands of km. I have no reason to believe that the chain is going to eat away the steel cage. But I guess we'll see.
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finally pulled the trigger yesterday. 330€ without maybe customs was too temting. Has anyone replaced the breakpads by now and can say, if there is a shimano alternertive? and if yes which model does fit?
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finally pulled the trigger yesterday. 330€ without maybe customs was too temting. Has anyone replaced the breakpads by now and can say, if there is a shimano alternertive? and if yes which model does fit?
I paired my eR9 with ZRace XG caliper and Cooma Elite pads (the pink ones). I am just impressed with the Cooma pads. For the price, it has no business being so good and I have used all different kinds of Shimano pads before. I can comfortably say they are almost as good as Shimano's. Please note that I weight somewhere between 68-70kg, depending on the days, so that may change the results. Also impressed with the very minimal disc squealing noise.
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Man, I am >< this close to pulling trigger on that $380 ER9 but the imminent launch of upgraded version is stopping me. It's supposed to go on an existing bike (replacing mechanical Ultegra). But then in the comparison video on China cycling it appears that RD, cable port, charging port basically parts that have been reportedly suseptible to water damage are not updated and are same as current ER9/X. They updated FD but from what I read on these pages, the FD isn't really prone to getting the water in.
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Was doubting but with the sale i've got a full ER9 group with Zrace rotors and Senicx crank for 500usd. I'm racing these bikes, curious how ER9 will react to the Belgian kermesse races ;-)
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I also picked up the ER9 during the sale. Price came out to $350 USD with tax once I stacked it with $80 off coupon + coins. I decided to upgrade the rest of the drivetrain in the process so I picked up a 12 speed Goldix 251g 11-34t cassette and Senicx 52-36t chainring. I also picked up a pair of Fovno 12t POM jockey wheels for good measure. I noticed the cadence jumps on the 12 speed 11-34t matched the 11 speed 11-32t in the high gears and with a 36:34t low gear ratio, it'll match my current 34:32t 11 speed. I figure it's one of those scenarios where I can have my cake and eat it too! I've already ordered a set of high quality 14500 batteries and I'll probably pick up some dielectric grease from the auto store later on for insurance. Fortunately I have two road bikes, so I'll convert one to the ER9 and keep the other one mechanical Ultegra just in case.
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Was doubting but with the sale i've got a full ER9 group with Zrace rotors and Senicx crank for 500usd. I'm racing these bikes, curious how ER9 will react to the Belgian kermesse races ;-)
let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
if your parcel gets stopped, they ask you for an invoice and charge you VAT on what you paid, plus potentially 10-20 eur for custom processing fee. They can't really fine you, if that's your concern. And worst case, you refuse the package, it goes back to china, and you eventually get a refund. There's a tracking number so the parcel can't just get lost on its way back to china, so you would get a refund.
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if your parcel gets stopped, they ask you for an invoice and charge you VAT on what you paid, plus potentially 10-20 eur for custom processing fee. They can't really fine you, if that's your concern. And worst case, you refuse the package, it goes back to china, and you eventually get a refund. There's a tracking number so the parcel can't just get lost on its way back to china, so you would get a refund.
Well first of all I'd like to avoid any custom :) there are some shops which do the XDB or so to dispatch things without paying it. Second, if it's like in PT, it's not just 10/20€. It's actually quite a bunch more. Here you can find a complete 105di2 for around 1000€. Taking the VAT off is sth like 830€ which puts it dangerously close to a complete ER9 build, with the advantage of being Shimano and warranty
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
Not BE but GER, but will let you know if it may help you. They package will arrive with transit throug NL. Last time (magene 505 base) the postman at my door charged me around 13€ on an 250€ order. But i can't rember what value they wrote on the package. This time it is 83€ :D
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
This kit will not work, I have the same kit and I ran into issue with fittings - they were too thick (lol) to thread into calipers. I ended up buying Jagwire Elite bleeding syringes for Sram.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
What store did you get it from? What was the final price?
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
I tried it with 2 orders in the previous sale. Both were about 200 EUR and I did not choose the prepaid shipping option. Both orders were stopped by customs and I had to pay extra both times. I had to pay 10-15% of the value, so still lower than what you would have to pay on Ali. The biggest part of those costs were handling cost for the shipping company. VAT was very little...
Customs do take their sweet time in handling the shipment. So you can expect that will add 1-2 weeks to the delivery times. I suspect this is maybe to discourage you from ordering this way... But they probably also just have a lot of work with all these packages.
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I went through this thread and could not find the answer. Apologies if I missed it, but regarding the kit we need to bleed the brakes, do you guys know if we need a particular Ltwoo kit? I have the below kit that says is good for Shimano and SRAM. I was assuming that ltwoo would use the same fittings, but I am unable to confirm.
As per Balticsea, this will probably not work. i ended up buying the decathlon bleed kit (c.35 eur) (way more than i would have liked) JUST for the little adaptors to screw into the bleed ports.
I had bought the "EZMTB Bicycle Brake Oil Bleed Kit Tools For SHIMANO SRAM Avid MAGURA Series Hydraulic Disc MTB Road Bike Brake Repair Tool... 2022 STD BAG" and the adaptor was too thick. i tried to file down the fitting, i broke it.
The Decathlon kit: https://www.decathlon.fr/p/kit-de-purge-pour-frein-a-disque-minerale/_/R-p-301337
Btw, out of 5 er9 i installed, i think i bled only 1 or 2. There's oil in the housing, so given that these groups were my first forays into hydraulic brakes, i didn't want to fix something that wasnt broken. Braking's been fine without bleeding on most of them.
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I used the full ezmtb kit listed here and it works:
60Ml Bicycle Brake Fluid Mineral Oil System Fluid Cycling Mountain Bikes for Shimano Bike Accessorie Oil Injector
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oCbPLJI
I believe any kit that includes sram adapters should work?
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These are plastic fittings. Mine are metal. Maybe that paradoxically, the plastic ones work better? The version i bought was meant to be universal, ie include sram (kit came with a LOT of different fittings).
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
Seller declared the value lower i always ask around 170 dollar so it's the absolute minimum import duty and it's a realistic value since the belgian limit is at 150 dollar.
Did this a few times before it works. Don't put 25 dollars on it or they will look it up :)
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Seller declared the value lower i always ask around 170 dollar so it's the absolute minimum import duty and it's a realistic value since the belgian limit is at 150 dollar.
Did this a few times before it works. Don't put 25 dollars on it or they will look it up :)
Interesting. So if you spend more than 170 eur on an AliX order, you send a message to the seller, ask they declare a value of 170 eur, that way customs catch the bag, they charge you on that 170 eur, and everybody is happy? What do you then pay, is it 20% on 170 + customs fees?
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i am from BE and rideing the er9 groupset, I payed an extra 30€ on tax. They put the price lower without asking them .
But what I read about racing it in kermesse ... I don't know but if you pay 400€ you really can't compare it to shimano or sram. the groupset is okay but not more than that. I wouldn't recommend it to people who really want quality. I was riding this weekend in bad weather and the shifting reactions where just bad. Sometimes you just have to shift like 10 times before the RD reacts to it.
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Sounds like you didn't set it up properly
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No such problem on mine. Do you mean the gear won’t shift on the cassette? Or does the RD not react to when you push the button? The former would be a setup issue. The latter might be water ingress and contact issues at the cable plug and socket interface.
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Check if the plugs are firmly plugged in and maybe change the shifter batteries. My set came with one side shifter battery(cr2032) totally flat because the wrap packaging it came in was pressing on the paddles.
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
will have a look at it when my set arrives and is installed. I opted for 1100mAh batteries with usb charging. So 1500km is my goal for the first charge?!
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How's everyone's experience with battery life so far? I bought 2x 800mAh batteries. I didn't really pay attention how far I got with the first charge. When I charged the groupset for the second time, I reset the shift counter in the companion app to zero. I have done roughly 4.800 shifts now and the batteries are at 35%. So I should get around 7000-7500 shifts out of a single charge. The bike has done 2.300km with this groupset now. I guess I could do at least another 200km. Some of this was on the indoor trainer, however. Though I do not use ERG mode there, so I shift quite a bit on the indoor trainer as well. All in all, I guess I can expect 1000km per charge without pushing the batteries too much into the red. But if there are batteries with more capacity, this could be increased maybe?
I am at 4800 shifts and at 55%. Using vapcell f12.
However, you should simply charge when at 30%. Don't stretch the batteries too much if you can help it.
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I bought batteries locally, and they are crap. I have a lithium capacity tester and they tested at 300-400mah. With these in, the group dies at c.35%. I found out because at first i was using an external battery pack to charge the group, but it turns out it wasn't charging properly for several reasons. So now for simplicity, i charge using a wall charger. I am making a habit of charging very often to avoid being stuck in one gear, which really, really sucks.
Note 1: you can / may to some extent charge the group on the go with a battery pack or your phone, but that assumes you're staying on top of the battery in these things.
Note 2: the 2nd time my group died in a ride, when back home, and after charging, i had to press the RD button for several seconds to reset the cage (it was stuck). Then took me 5min to re-calibrate the gears.
Note 3: the group talks to my garmin edge: battery indicator as well as which gear i'm in. I bothered setting that up only 3 days ago. It's quite neat.
Bottom line: charge your group...
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@Serge_K
It's 26€ handling + vat on 170 +-. Mostly between 45 and 50€.
i am from BE and rideing the er9 groupset, I payed an extra 30€ on tax. They put the price lower without asking them .
But what I read about racing it in kermesse ... I don't know but if you pay 400€ you really can't compare it to shimano or sram. the groupset is okay but not more than that. I wouldn't recommend it to people who really want quality. I was riding this weekend in bad weather and the shifting reactions where just bad. Sometimes you just have to shift like 10 times before the RD reacts to it.
Worth taking the risk, sram front shifting was horrible never going back to that. I'll try to put something over the connections to protect it from water ingress.
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Note 3: the group talks to my garmin edge: battery indicator as well as which gear i'm in. I bothered setting that up only 3 days ago. It's quite neat.
Bottom line: charge your group...
Yeah, that still doesn't work for Wahoo users though. The head unit randomly gives a low battery warning even when the groupset is fully charged. They still haven't fixed that bug.
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Ordered eGR on 3/11 and the came on 3/19, didn't pay for air shipping but they got here to Texas in a week. Pretty nice set up again. I am disappointed that they don't ship it with mineral oil bottle, olives and barbs, or seatpost battery plug, but overall happy to this point. Waiting on cassette and chain to install.
Mine came with olives and barbs in the bag with the caliper mounts.
I am using a hanger extender to run 11-50t. Will report back on shifting.
As I am running 1x, it seems like the buttons on the left lever are completely redundant. Any way they can be used for something else? Like changing Garmin screen? Or can I set them up like SRAM left/right shifting?
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Mine came with olives and barbs in the bag with the caliper mounts.
I am using a hanger extender to run 11-50t. Will report back on shifting.
As I am running 1x, it seems like the buttons on the left lever are completely redundant. Any way they can be used for something else? Like changing Garmin screen? Or can I set them up like SRAM left/right shifting?
Where did you buy hangar extender?
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They're generic, give it a Google. Ebay for cheap.
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Where did you buy hangar extender?
They come "free" when you order 11-50 cassettes on ali more often than not
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I just pulled trigger on the ER9 over EGR even though its going on a gravel bike. This will replace Ultegra/GRX setup. My plan is to run it in 11 speed mode and keep current crank, chain, cassette (11-34) as it is. Will see how it goes. Once the time comes to replace wearables, I will make the jump to 12s.
Also ordered a couple of Vapcell F12 batteries since I saw reference to those earlier in this thread. Not sure if that is a good price but it says "genuine" over there and Reddit confirmed its a reputable website.
https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/vapcell-f12-14500-3a-button-top-1250mah-battery-genuine?variant=40539607302213
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Hi All
I'm a bike mechanic in Ireland, and in the last year I've built 5 customer bikes and 1 for me using eRX. And it's all been grand, couple wee hickups here are there, but overall very good, customers happy
For shipping reasons I buy without batteries which I source locally. The batteries I've been using are 14500 800mah un-protected, as the protected cells are too long to fit. Also capacites over 800mah are also too long to fit in the tube without forcing and bending it. I know to my cost, as the wee copper strip up the back of the pack is extremely fragile at the solder between the 2 batteries
Today a customer flatten his battery on a ride, when after re-charging its become apparent that the cells have been allowed to discharge below 30% and ruined them.
I'd presumed that the actually battery tube had a BMS at the top, now I'm not so sure.
Anyone else had issues with the batteries?
Also the manual states that a solid green LED on RD means the battery is fully charged. This isnt the case, if you open up the app you'll see it's charging and not 100%. This was the cause to the confusion for my customer, and the reason he didn't leave home with a full battery
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Hi All
I'm a bike mechanic in Ireland, and in the last year I've built 5 customer bikes and 1 for me using eRX. And it's all been grand, couple wee hickups here are there, but overall very good, customers happy
Nice to hear since Ireland has the same wet climate like Belgium. No water ingress issues with the rear derailleur?
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been very wet even for Ireland this winter. But no issues with water getting where it shouldn't
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
I wouldn’t lose sleep over this. Maybe the parcel got damaged or wasn’t properly packed. Good thing it happened in China still. Shouldn’t be too hard for the seller to sort it out. Did you order it with batteries? Customs issue maybe?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
Did you buy the eR9 from LTWOO Official Store and you're in the US? I had this issue twice and ended up not getting the eR9 (my third). I was told it was because restricted item (battery), even though I ordered one without battery, so customs don't allow for shipment. It's a bummer. I was recommended to buy from other sellers to avoid this issue. It's kind of odd, since my first eR9 was from this store, though it was before they became AE Choice seller. Being shipped by Choice may have something to do with it.
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I received my AliEx sale ER9 groupset while I was out of town last week. It took exactly 7 days to arrive from China to Southern California. Anyways, I examined all the hardware and everything looks good. Now I have to decide which road bike I'm going to install it on? It might have been easier if I just bought a new frame with the groupset! I'll report back later this week once I get it installed.
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I wouldn’t lose sleep over this. Maybe the parcel got damaged or wasn’t properly packed. Good thing it happened in China still. Shouldn’t be too hard for the seller to sort it out. Did you order it with batteries? Customs issue maybe?
Yes, without box and without battery version from their own official store. After reading boxof13's reply I got curious and started a chat with customer care. Their response - unfortunately it has been returned back to sender and on further inspection it seems the reason is "non-permitted items - batteries".
So I asked if sender can resend the package, reply - "No. Again, unfortunately Aliexpress has no system for reshipment of a package. I am buyer of Aliexpress too and this has happened with me before. The only option is to request for refund. Since you cannot request a refund I will start a refund dispute on your behalf"
. Not wanting to let go I asked if I should ask the seller directly, reply "You can try but best option would be refund as any reshipment process will be outside of Aliexpress if the seller agrees".
So yeah that's it. They have started refund. To be frank I am pleasantly surprised at this particular service rep's responses.
Did you buy the eR9 from LTWOO Official Store and you're in the US? I had this issue twice and ended up not getting the eR9 (my third). I was told it was because restricted item (battery), even though I ordered one without battery, so customs don't allow for shipment. It's a bummer. I was recommended to buy from other sellers to avoid this issue. It's kind of odd, since my first eR9 was from this store, though it was before they became AE Choice seller. Being shipped by Choice may have something to do with it.
You are right. This is exactly what happened and I am in US, ordered it from LTW official store the no battery or box version. My guess at this point is that they forgot to remove those CR2032 batteries from the shifters? Sent multiple messages to LTW but they don't reply. I should have known because they have never replied to any of my messages earlier too.
Man this is surely is a bummer. I didn't even need the group and now I am unreasonably mad.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
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Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
That's how I am looking at it. I kept going back and forth because the new edition is coming. But then Joe's video where the new version doesn't seem to have any additional waterproofing pushed me over the edge. Not sure what went wrong, per the customer care its batteries. May be its for the better. With that said, today is Choice Day and with 50 off coupon the ER9 is again back to same price as anniversary sale.
Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
yeah I remember reading that! In this case it was not only official store (apparently) but also the best offer by quite some margin. Almost a no brainer when coupons were stacked. Oh well.
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That's how I am looking at it. I kept going back and forth because the new edition is coming. But then Joe's video where the new version doesn't seem to have any additional waterproofing pushed me over the edge. Not sure what went wrong, per the customer care its batteries. May be its for the better. With that said, today is Choice Day and with 50 off coupon the ER9 is again back to same price as anniversary sale.
yeah I remember reading that! In this case it was not only official store (apparently) but also the best offer by quite some margin. Almost a no brainer when coupons were stacked. Oh well.
I have to say the groupset does look quite nice, externally the ER9 finish looks similar to Shimano 105. I'd also be tempted to try the EGR, but where I live 1x gravel doesn't make sense. I wish there wasn't such an industry to push gravel as 1x.
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I receive lots of items with C2032 batteries. Maybe they accidentally packed a mineral oil container into your package? Anyways, I'd be annoyed that my package was returned. On the bright side, the blue edition ER9/X should be available on the next AliEx sale, so you can order the new & improved version instead! ;)
It was indeed odd. My second eR9 came with CR2032 already installed too, but it was from 80 Designer Store.
Getting the new blue edition was also my thought process. I was planning to put the additional eR9 on my old road/commuter bike anyway. I somehow developed a new habit of pressing the shift button with my pinky finger after riding so much on the eR9, so the new button layout on the blue addition will be awesome!
Anyone got news when they will start selling the new edition?
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Keep in mind that the so called official LTWOO store is not actually owned or run by LTWOO. At least according to Joe from China Cycling/Panda Podium. That’s why I just chose the best offer regardless of who the seller is and went with the 80s Designer Store.
In addition to informing about who is the real owner of the LTWOO account in AliExpress, I understand that it is a way to attract customers. After all he is offering the same product at a higher price, but it is understood that with better warranty and better service.
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I just noticed that Pandapodium put up this comment on their eRX listing
The “Blue Edition” won’t be available til the second half of 2024. The eRX we selling currently are still the all black version but with the previous issues solved.
It looks like plenty of people are asking this question already to them.
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I was getting my ER9 groupset setup last night and I verified mine did not come with CR2032 batteries (bought from the LTwoo "Official" Choice Store). Though I had to do a quick Google search to find where the battery slot was on my shifters. I'm really impressed by the customizable options via the app. I got everything sync'ed up, so now I have to figure out which one of my road bikes will receive the conversion. Also I can see now see how water ingress can be an issue, I'm debating which sealing method would work best for me. I was thinking of just using rubber cement around the plug, because I don't see myself detaching the RD once installed.
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I just noticed that Pandapodium put up this comment on their eRX listing
It looks like plenty of people are asking this question already to them.
Good that l ordered di2 last week ;D
..I was willingly to wait if the evolution of ERX would be better regarding the water ingress.. but my new frame arrived last week, no way that I would wait that long. The summer is coming 8)
But: next bike build will come for sure and then ERX is probably a solution.
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
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On the Chris Miller channel a first indication of the update ER9 group-set have been shared: September 204
quite looooong waiting time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH9BZS1fHus&list=PLEpbDnti9Ma3sS3_n0VhLvurDB1ZgY3DY&index=1&t=2478s
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
Just coat it outside the lip should be fine. What's important is that you ensure the cable is firmly plugged in. Personally I would prefer hot glue or liquid tape since that ensures a waterproof seal and yet is easily torn off when needed.
Chain catcher shouldn't be needed. Do note the FD limits are all adjusted in app.
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Just coat it outside the lip should be fine. What's important is that you ensure the cable is firmly plugged in. Personally I would prefer hot glue or liquid tape since that ensures a waterproof seal and yet is easily torn off when needed.
Chain catcher shouldn't be needed. Do note the FD limits are all adjusted in app.
I finished my bike rebuild last night and I opted to use rubber cement around the cable ports and then applied dielectric grease once it dried. I figure a glob of rubber cement should provide adequate adhesion that's easy to remove and the dielectric grease over that for moisture protection. So after installing the chain catcher, I was able to adequately tune the FD. I was too lazy to remove it though.
First impressions. Everything shifts excellent once setup. Though it was an all-day affair tuning the bike. I'm not sure it was any easier over setting up a cable mechanical bike. The software tuning app is amazing. I've never owned SRAM AXS or DI2, but gear protection and one touch shifting are awesome. I used a quality pair of batteries and battery life seems to be good so far.
On the not so bright side. I'm not fond of the puny RD springs LTwoo and Sensah tend to use. They work, but it's more confidence inspiring how Shimano uses an over engineered spring coil. Also my RD cage looks like it can only accommodate the same size jockey wheels provided. There's no wiggle room to tweak the size. Weight-wise, the ER9 isn't exactly less weight compared to mechanical Ultegra. I either broke even or maybe added a few grams to my bike.
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let me know how it goes with the customs. I was thinking about buying that set but am afraid of customs here in BE
the mailman rang a few minutes ago. Had to weigh everthing before i rememered to tell about the tax and so.
Price as declared was 83€ and i payed 19% VAT (15,77€) and a 6€ handling fee from DHL. So in total 21,72€ on top of the original price.
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the mailman rang a few minutes ago. Had to weigh everthing before i rememered to tell about the tax and so.
Price as declared was 83€ and i payed 19% VAT (15,77€) and a 6€ handling fee from DHL. So in total 21,72€ on top of the original price.
Thanks!
Yes in Portugal would be much different as they'd want the real invoice.. In Belgium I dunno... still waiting. Anyway I got a full groupset 105 hydraulic for 190euro delivered which I think wasn't bad. Going mechanical for now eheh
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I got a full groupset 105 hydraulic for 190euro delivered which I think wasn't bad. Going mechanical for now eheh
Second hand I guess?
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Yesterday I took the ER9 groupset on it's first ride doing a quick 40km and 600m of climbing. I took it up and down one of the worst road climbs in our city with lots of pot holes, dirt and loose rocks. My aim was to see if I could drop the chain while constantly shifting the ER9 using the whole gear range. The ride included flats, climbing and fast downhill descents. The ER9 worked amazingly well! Shifting was smooth, my cables stayed in-place, I never dropped the chain especially on the fast bumpy downhill and I was totally satisfied with the performance.
There were only a few issues I had when riding. I seemed to accidentally hit the left shift button inadvertently switching to the small chainring while descending in the drops. Also I didn't like that both left FD buttons functioned the same. I'd prefer to have one button dedicated to the small chainring and the other to the big chainring. Without auto trim, it's hard to hear if the chain is rubbing on the FD or not especially when listening to music. The LTwoo grips are a bit too narrow for my taste, I tend to prefer beefier grips. The LTwoo hydro brake calipers work fine, but they're definitely heavy, I might swap them out later on for some lightweight calipers.
Also I think 12 speed is worth switching over to if you plan on buying this groupset. I'm not sure if the smoothness of my ride was attributed to electronic shifting, the wider range cassette, a freshly waxed chain or all of the above? Either way I liked I was able to keep a similar cog range as my 11 speed 11-32t and get the added benefit of the 34t in the low gear.
In regards to gearing I think 50-34t is as big as you can go with an 11-34t cassette with the ER9 without compromising shift performance. It can shift 52-36t + 11-34t, but without a clutch or some sort of cage stiffness adjustment, it feels a bit sloppy. Regarding battery life with lots of shifting due to up and down terrain, I was at 84% from full charge after the ride. I think it'll be a good idea to buy an additional charging cable as backup and maybe bring a power bank if planning a century or more. Also I'm not sure how long the CR2032 batteries will last in the shifters? I think I'll have to pack a few batteries in my saddle bag and dedicated screwdriver moving forward.
Overall my first impressions of the ER9 is very positive. With tax and shipping the whole thing cost me $350 USD for the groupset and it seems the early production kinks have been ironed out (crossing fingers). Also the money saved going with the ER9 can be applied cutting weight elsewhere like a lightweight cassette (which I opted for) or lightweight brake calipers. I still think it's a good idea to have a firm grasp of tuning a mechanical groupset. I don't think I'd jump straight into electronic without knowing how to tune a mechanical bike.
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Second hand I guess?
Yes yes forgot to mention that ahha. Still I think it was a nice deal as it includes all (ex disc rotors and crank)
Now just seeking wheels and frame to match it... So far divided between lcr017, ltk 268 or vb066.
Currently have a speedster 30 and I think it would be nice maybe to have sth racket though I'm not going young
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There were only a few issues I had when riding. I seemed to accidentally hit the left shift button inadvertently switching to the small chainring while descending in the drops. Also I didn't like that both left FD buttons functioned the same. I'd prefer to have one button dedicated to the small chainring and the other to the big chainring. Without auto trim, it's hard to hear if the chain is rubbing on the FD or not especially when listening to music. The LTwoo grips are a bit too narrow for my taste, I tend to prefer beefier grips. The LTwoo hydro brake calipers work fine, but they're definitely heavy, I might swap them out later on for some lightweight calipers.
I think you have "one touch shift" enabled, that's why both shifter paddles work the same for the FD. The default config is one paddle for big, one for small.
Also agree that the hoods feel a little too small/thin for my hands. Prefer sensah ones which feel meatier.
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I think you have "one touch shift" enabled, that's why both shifter paddles work the same for the FD. The default config is one paddle for big, one for small.
Also agree that the hoods feel a little too small/thin for my hands. Prefer sensah ones which feel meatier.
I indeed had one touch shift activated! I turned that feature off. Also today I did some more fine tuning to the FD. Since I activated gear protection, I'm able to optimize my FD high and low gearing a bit more without worrying too much about big/big and small/small since those gears will be closed off. Also one little issue. I found when removing the wheel, the lower jockey wheel with chain rubs up the lower portion of the rear derailleur. Something to keep in mind.
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Keep in mind that the gear protection feature will not entirely block the big/big or small/small combo. If you are on either end of the cassette and click the FD shifter buttons it will still make the shift despite gear protection. So you should at least have it set up so your chain won’t get too slack or is not too short, otherwise you might damage your RD.
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Keep in mind that the gear protection feature will not entirely block the big/big or small/small combo. If you are on either end of the cassette and click the FD shifter buttons it will still make the shift despite gear protection. So you should at least have it set up so your chain won’t get too slack or is not too short, otherwise you might damage your RD.
I found on the ER9 fine tuning the FD high/low limits somewhere between the "ideal" setting and how I would adjust it with gear protection OFF to be a good compromise. My low and high gear will run smoother using gear protection, but I'm still within tolerances if I accidentally go big/big or small/small. Also I found chain length remained the same with either a 50-34/11-34t or a 52-36/11-32t setup. Since this bike is mainly used as a climber, I opted for the lower gear 1st option.
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Review of the new ERX from Local Alien / CLIFF on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PE58mKlZd6Q
The new FD cage is a different shape from before. He's reporting less chain drops from front shifting compared to previous ERX.
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I've installed my 5th er9 on a pinarello grevil clone I'm testing. Did a 4h gravel ride today, very varied terrain including technical stuff where you lose traction, have to choose your line, silly steep bits, all imaginable surfaces, blablabla. I put a 50/34 11/36 (all Chinese) with a 2 euro cage extender. I was shifting constantly and used all the gears. Didn't miss a shift. 34/36 really lets you climb up a tree, the limiting factor is my absence of skill and tendency to lift the front end. I ended up folded in two on top of the bars to keep traction.
Really pleased with the stuff.
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I can't seem to find the er9 when I search it on the app. Any buttons I need to click to make it enter search mode? I tried searching that info many places.
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The new FD cage is a different shape from before. He's reporting less chain drops from front shifting compared to previous ERX.
I've had my fair share of chain drops on one of the bikes i installed. It comes down to calibration / setting it up properly, after which, it doesnt drop. But all the better if they somehow improved that (I suspect he just installed / setup the new one better though).
I can't seem to find the er9 when I search it on the app. Any buttons I need to click to make it enter search mode? I tried searching that info many places.
Do you mean you're trying to pair the group with your phone using the app? as long as the group is on (which means as long as you can shift up / down with the shifters), your app on the phone should find it. If the group is sleeping, you wont find it. Make sure it's fully charged, make sure your bluetooth is on, your phone is charged, both FD & RD are connected to the battery, all the usual / obvious :) Sometimes my phone is in a bad mood and it takes 2-3 tries before connecting to a group, but i have 5 active groups on my app. It always ends up working.
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I can't tell from the aliexpress pictures, are the derailleur cages swappable or glued like sensah? I would be curious if an OSPW could potentially increase the clearance a little bit for a gravel bike. Mine has 31-40 lowest and I'm still grinding up some climbs
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Fixed now. It was the location permission from the phone that was preventing it to see the er9. Weird, but fixed. Thanks!
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Perhaps the wrong thread but I see there are people with tons of experience with the L-twoo unit and looks like an updated version is much improved. Any sense of how it compares so far to the new Wheetop EDX TX electronic groupset?
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So far I'm quite pleased with my ER9 groupset. I've been riding it back-to-back with my mechanical Ultegra bike and they're both good in their own ways. In my opinion, it's similar to driving an auto assist car versus a manual transmission. I find installing the ER9 easier than mechanical, but it's faster to tune mechanical once installed. Though I wish there were RD cage options with the ER9/X. The one thing I like with the OSPW Ceramic Speed knock-off I'm using on the Ultegra bike is the 4 levels of spring tension. For someone like me who climbs and descend rough California fire roads the added tension keeps the chain from bouncing without having to use a clutch RD. LTwoo's looser cage tension and smaller spring are a bit bouncy on rougher roads.
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So far I'm quite pleased with my ER9 groupset. I've been riding it back-to-back with my mechanical Ultegra bike and they're both good in their own ways. In my opinion, it's similar to driving an auto assist car versus a manual transmission. I find installing the ER9 easier than mechanical, but it's faster to tune mechanical once installed. Though I wish there were RD cage options with the ER9/X. The one thing I like with the OSPW Ceramic Speed knock-off I'm using on the Ultegra bike is the 4 levels of spring tension. For someone like me who climbs and descend rough California fire roads the added tension keeps the chain from bouncing without having to use a clutch RD. LTwoo's looser cage tension and smaller spring are a bit bouncy on rougher roads.
Really? My er9 RD has the highest spring tension I ever had on a 2x derailleur without a clutch mechanism. I get virtually no chain slap from it but the FD has to work quite a bit to make the front shift smoothly as a result. I wonder if it's different to yours. My Campy Record 12sp RD is a lot looser in comparison and I do get more chain slap on it.
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Today I sorted out my ER9 shifting. Unfortunately I picked the wrong bike frame to convert. I opted to use my TFSA (SL7 clone) frameset and despite having ports for Di2, the ER9 cable won't fit in the chainstay RD hole. So I had to route the cable externally. Also I tried running 52-36/11-34t and it's not that great. It shifts fine, but there's too much chain slack. I did try a shorter length chain while enabling gear protection, but you can still shift into big/big from small/big. I could potentially destroy the derailleur. I ended up sizing back down to 50-34 and kept the 11-34t. Chain length remained the same from my previous 50-34/11-32t combo.
So far I was able to properly fine tune shifting on my Goldix 12 speed 11-34t lightweight cassette. In fact the cassette shifts greats. I had some minor shift issues with the FD, though I was able to get it sorted. I installed an FD chain catcher for good measure (not needed on my Ultegra R8000 FD). Hopefully I'll be able to to get the bike up and running this weekend, and I'll report back.
Also I picked up a small packet of dielectric grease at the auto store. Just to verify, do I put it inside the connector port cable or just around the connector?
So the ER9 can be set up with 12 speed? I always see it advertised as an 11 speed groupset.
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So the ER9 can be set up with 12 speed? I always see it advertised as an 11 speed groupset.
Yes - you select the number of speeds in the app when setting up - it supports at least 10/11/12 (maybe more?).
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Yes - you select the number of speeds in the app when setting up - it supports at least 10/11/12 (maybe more?).
Luke TraceVelo in last video mention that after software update - it supports from 7 to 13 speed.
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Really? My er9 RD has the highest spring tension I ever had on a 2x derailleur without a clutch mechanism. I get virtually no chain slap from it but the FD has to work quite a bit to make the front shift smoothly as a result. I wonder if it's different to yours. My Campy Record 12sp RD is a lot looser in comparison and I do get more chain slap on it.
The main reason I run this Ceramic Speed knock-off OSPW (I'm not paying $500 USD for the real one) on my mechanical Shimano RD is for the 4 spring tension levels. It has 2 more spring coil holes more than the stock RD cage. I also have an Ultegra RX800 clutch RD on my gravel bike and I'd be fine with no clutch if Shimano had just pre-drilled additional holes into the cage, that way I could run the highest tension with no chain bounce. Plus I'm not too concerned about making a Shimano FD work, bar none Shimano makes the best FDs on the market. They just work!
If anything the ER9 is probably closer to stock Shimano cage tension. I already stress tested the ER9 on a really rough downhill descent and the chain was fine. It's just more personal preference for the way I ride.
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The main reason I run this Ceramic Speed knock-off OSPW (I'm not paying $500 USD for the real one) on my mechanical Shimano RD is for the 4 spring tension levels. It has 2 more spring coil holes more than the stock RD cage.
If anything the ER9 is probably closer to stock Shimano cage tension. I already stress tested the ER9 on a really rough downhill descent and the chain was fine. It's just more personal preference for the way I ride.
That's interesting. can you please link to your OSPW? On the er9, if you run 11-34 (native) or 11-36 (with a small cage extender), in small small, there's a lot of chain slack. Mind you, the app has "gear protection" that prevents that, plus you shouldn't cross chain, but if the OSPW acts as some de facto clutch, it becomes a lot less useless as an upgrade, at which point i'm curious to try. And I agree w you, i'm not paying 500$ for that farce.
It then becomes a question of whether there's an OSPW option for the er9/x.
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If anyone knows of an OSPW option that fits er9/erx, then I'd be interested as well. I'm happy to admit that for me it's mainly for the sake of vanity. :P More adjustability in spring tension is a welcomed side effect, however.
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That's interesting. can you please link to your OSPW? On the er9, if you run 11-34 (native) or 11-36 (with a small cage extender), in small small, there's a lot of chain slack. Mind you, the app has "gear protection" that prevents that, plus you shouldn't cross chain, but if the OSPW acts as some de facto clutch, it becomes a lot less useless as an upgrade, at which point i'm curious to try. And I agree w you, i'm not paying 500$ for that farce.
It then becomes a question of whether there's an OSPW option for the er9/x.
I found with the ER9 50-34/11-34t is the biggest cassette I could run with minimal chain slack. Chain length remained the same from my previous 11-32t when I was running mechanical and I can still safely clear big/big if I go there by accident. Though I'm wondering if there's some sort of Shimano patent for removable derailleur cages? I wonder why LTwoo and Sensah insist on non-removable cages?
Here's the link to that OSPW:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html)
If you look closely at the photos you can see the 4 tension hole adjustments.
One more thought: I find gear protection an acceptable trade-off on the ER9/X because I feel small/small is where you'll most likely drop a chain. I also plan on keeping my chain catcher as an added bit of insurance.
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Here's the link to that OSPW:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806117049941.html)
If you look closely at the photos you can see the 4 tension hole adjustments.
One more thought: I find gear protection an acceptable trade-off on the ER9/X because I feel small/small is where you'll most likely drop a chain. I also plan on keeping my chain catcher as an added bit of insurance.
Avoid these cages at all costs. Broke two of these, last one on a cobble section in a race. Pure garbage! Consider yourself warned :)
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Avoid these cages at all costs. Broke two of these, last one on a cobble section in a race. Pure garbage! Consider yourself warned :)
I've been riding these on some of the roughest urban Los Angeles roads with no issues. I don't ride my road bikes in the rain, only use immersive waxed chains and they work fine. If you crashed, it probably would have happened to the real Ceramic Speed OSPW. It's getting to the point people keep saying everything is junk on AliExpress, but for some weird reason all the junk seems to work for me with proper care and maintenance.
I'm starting to think on the same lines as @Serge_K that most problems people have on here are due to user error/negligence.
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I've been riding these on some of the roughest urban Los Angeles roads with no issues. I don't ride my road bikes in the rain, only use immersive waxed chains and they work fine. If you crashed, it probably would have happened to the real Ceramic Speed OSPW. It's getting to the point people keep saying everything is junk on AliExpress, but for some weird reason all the junk seems to work for me with proper care and maitenance.
I'm starting to think on the same lines as @Serge_K that most problems people have on here are due to user error/negligence.
I don't know, I have also seen some bad reviews of those cages you link to. I must admit I had been thinking about ordering one, but the chances of damage if it snaps is just too high for me... You could end up with a damaged frame and a ruined wheel if it snaps and you chain rips off the derailleur...
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I don't know, I have also seen some bad reviews of those cages you link to. I must admit I had been thinking about ordering one, but the chances of damage if it snaps is just too high for me... You could end up with a damaged frame and a ruined wheel if it snaps and you chain rips off the derailleur...
My bikes should have exploded 10 times over with all the questionable parts I'm using from AliExpress. With weather heating up in my area, I'm more worried about running over a rattlesnake and having that rip off my derailleur. I've already accidentally run over 3 snakes alone this year on my bikes! ;D
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
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My ER9 shipped immediately but hit a snag. The package has been returned back to sender. I have never seen this happening before and I order a LOT. Bad news?
Update on this. Aliexpress finally refunded the money today even though package went back on March 29th. Has anyone had any luck with customer service to re-apply coupon?
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
I don't think it matters all that much. Though my came with the bigger 12t lower pulley wheel and the small 11t upper pulley wheel. I did notice the pulley wheels swapped in various photos, but in operation my arrangement shifts fine.
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FYI. I have put 100 miles on my new Wheeltop EDS TX Disc kit. I am very impressed with the quality and how good the EDS TX is working. The only thing I dislike is the ergonomics of the shift paddles on the right shift/brake lever. My fingers are having a hard time hitting the right button now and again, and more often on single track trails when the bike is bouncing around. I presume that as I get used to the paddle operation, it will become more second nature and I will mess up fewer shifts.
I was a lot more impressed with the disc caliper's stopping power than I thought I would be.
I was thinking about the ER9 or ERX, but I am sold on the EDS TX kit now. I hope the WheelTop products become more readily available in the USA, I have another bike I want to upgrade.
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I've also been riding my ER9 groupset without a hitch and I ride on some rough road terrain and it just works. I have my ER9 gear tuned perfectly, quality replaceable batteries are cheap/plentiful, the high speed shifts are faster than any of my mechanical bikes and gear protection does a great job minimizing chain drops + keeping chain line optimized. On price alone I would probably get another ER9 groupset. No complaints on brakes either, they work fine.
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Weird thing I have noticed. When I tried to fit the chain to the bike after installing the er9, I noticed that the chain was not sitting right on the lower pulley. I suspected that the person who assembled the RD mixed up lower & upper pulley. I switched them and it it's all good now.
But, when searching pictures of the groupset after just by curiosity, I found pictures of both configurations.
Does anyone have an explanation to that?
the lower pulley has a narrow / wide teeth config, so you have to feed the chain correctly. i guess it helps with shifting quality?
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Well, I had to swap the pulleys. 11 speed chain was blocking in the cage plate with the big pulley installed in the lower position. I am surprised if some of you were able to run the chain through with that config.
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Latest coupon is out AED369 $50 off
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Unlike Anniversary sale, the EGR this time is ~$1 cheaper than ER9. Both down to $370 - $50 coupon. The deal is back. On the other hand all EDS TX groups from 2-3 different vendors that I had added to cart before sale have expired just today. So no dice on them at least in the USA.
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At this sale price point, I'd consider getting a spare ER9 groupset. I really need to stop looking at AliExpress! lol
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the lower pulley has a narrow / wide teeth config, so you have to feed the chain correctly. i guess it helps with shifting quality?
+1 on that
Mine has the pulley with the narrow/wide teeth in the lower position.
I swapped my cheap aluminium/steel hybrid cassette for a ZTTO lightweight one piece steel cassette. It has absolutely transformed the shifting and it‘s now WAAAY better, quicker, quieter and smoother. Only confirms my assumption that these cheap cassettes are not worth it. (Mine was the Goldix one but they’re all the same I think). But even more so, I’m only realising now how much this has hampered my er9 groupset. It’s soo much better now. Amazing.
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They are all same. I bought different brands and noticed that the lockring on which brand name is printed comes in its own little pouch sticky-taped to main cassette body. One manufacturer is producing those cassettes and ZTTO, Wuzei, Goldix, Sunshine just add brand lockrings on top and make it theirs. Those mid range lightweight cassettes are really good. I am yet to try scary light cassettes like Riro branded.
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They are all same. I bought different brands and noticed that the lockring on which brand name is printed comes in its own little pouch sticky-taped to main cassette body. One manufacturer is producing those cassettes and ZTTO, Wuzei, Goldix, Sunshine just add brand lockrings on top and make it theirs. Those mid range lightweight cassettes are really good. I am yet to try scary light cassettes like Riro branded.
Naah, Thanks. 250g for a 11-34 12sp cassette is light enough for me. I’ll steer clear of steel/aluminium cassettes from Ali for the time being.
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At this sale price point, I'd consider getting a spare ER9 groupset. I really need to stop looking at AliExpress! lol
I ordered for the second time this afternoon after first purchase debacle. The groupset literally shipped in 1 hour after placing the order. I *really* hope they have removed the batteries this time.
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Group installed here, raced with it. Trained with it and I have to say wow very impressed with what I got for the money. Shifts better than my old dura ace 11v di2.
Running 12s with a cheaper 11-28 cassette (219gr).
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Did anyone have to contact 80's Designer store for a warranty issue? I messaged the store but didn't get any reply regarding a batt problem.
My ER9 (bought Nov 2023) seems to have a battery drain issue which depletes the batts about 10% everyday without any riding. Batts are new Vapcell F12 and all firmware updated. Compared to another ER9 set that I got in Feb 2024 which drains maybe 1% per day which probably seems to be the norm.
Anybody have a similar experience?
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Is something waking your er9 from time to time?
Also check if the battery was fully charged in the first place. On some power banks the charging may stop but the batteries may not be at 100%. Always visually confirm the battery percentage in the app before unplugging the charger.
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And have you tried switching batteries between the 2 groupsets to make sure it really isn't a bad battery?
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Is something waking your er9 from time to time?
Also check if the battery was fully charged in the first place. On some power banks the charging may stop but the batteries may not be at 100%. Always visually confirm the battery percentage in the app before unplugging the charger.
Its actually on my trainer bike so its rock steady and not moving at all. Initially I used a power bank, but switched to a wall socket to ensure. Yep, I confirmed the batt was full via the app. But it just steadily depletes even when not in use. During a 1hour zwift ride, it drops maybe 2 to 3% so its definitely not a huge drain when the derailleurs are shifted. Another strange thing is I always have to press the RD button in order to connect to the app, even though I had just shaken the RD to wake it up 3 secs ago and the green light blinks to indicate it is awake. My other ER9 set doesn't need the button press, just the shake to wake. So I thought something is wonky...
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And have you tried switching batteries between the 2 groupsets to make sure it really isn't a bad battery?
Yep, I initially used sofirn 900mah batts, then when I discovered the batt drain issue, switched to vapcell F12's with a higher mah, thinking my sofirn's had a problem. Same batt drain issue with the vapcells. I put the sofirn's in the other ER9 set and no batt drain issue.
Possibly users that report short batt lifespans may have this phantom batt drain issue like I'm having.
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Would be worth testing the voltage of the cells, but lithium really doesnt like staying fully charged (which is also why it's bad practice to charge phones to 100%), so assuming the group charges the cells to full voltage, that voltage is going to drop a bit to a level the cell is happier with. So for simplicity i wouldn't read much into what happens between 100 and 95, if not 100 and 90. Now if the group drains itself from 90 down to 50 for no apparent reason, then either there's a strange ghost load, or the batteries are trash. Or both.
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Would be worth testing the voltage of the cells, but lithium really doesnt like staying fully charged (which is also why it's bad practice to charge phones to 100%),
Propagated myth from 10 to 15 years ago that it is bad to charge cell phone batteries to 100%. Guess what! Cell phone manufacturers know that it is not good to charge a Lithium battery to a real 100%. What you see displayed at 100% isn't really a fully charged battery. the charging circuits compensate and stop charging before the battery is fully/overcharged, leading to a shorter battery life.
This being stated, does anyone know if LTWOO is using a charging circuit that wont allow the batteries to be charge limited? One would think that they would, but the only way to know would be to ask them.
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It's not a myth, there's ample data from the likes of accubattery that shows the battery degrades less if you dont charge to 100%, AND a lithium cell that gets charged to 4.2V will be much happier at 4.1 or 4V; it doesn't stay at full charge, and it shouldn't be stored at full charge.
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Did anyone have to contact 80's Designer store for a warranty issue? I messaged the store but didn't get any reply regarding a batt problem.
My ER9 (bought Nov 2023) seems to have a battery drain issue which depletes the batts about 10% everyday without any riding. Batts are new Vapcell F12 and all firmware updated. Compared to another ER9 set that I got in Feb 2024 which drains maybe 1% per day which probably seems to be the norm.
Anybody have a similar experience?
I had a to get my shifter on my GR9 group replaced. 80 Designer store sent me another and I paid shipping. They had the typical timezone delay on responses.
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
Yes and yes. But buying the shifters and derailleurs without the caliper makes little sense/might be more expensive than buying the whole thing. Also if you have R7000 the brake calipers are pure trash in my experience. R7100 was a giant upgrade
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Yes and yes. But buying the shifters and derailleurs without the caliper makes little sense/might be more expensive than buying the whole thing. Also if you have R7000 the brake calipers are pure trash in my experience. R7100 was a giant upgrade
Yeah I’d buy the whole kit and keep the unused bits as spare - although I do have the R7000 so I might check out the new calipers.
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It's not a myth, there's ample data from the likes of accubattery that shows the battery degrades less if you dont charge to 100%, AND a lithium cell that gets charged to 4.2V will be much happier at 4.1 or 4V; it doesn't stay at full charge, and it shouldn't be stored at full charge.
Remember, I am talking about modern cell phones being manufactured by the major manufacturers. Apple, Samsung,... What you are saying is true for most other appliances that use Lithium batteries, unless they are installing good charging control circuitry.
(Look up Samsung Battery Protect. Samsung charges all of its cell batteries to 85% of full charge, but the phone tells you it is charged to 100%)
https://www.wired.com/story/how-to-improve-battery-life-tips-myths-smartphones/
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Actually that is am option in samsung settings and it just stops charging at 85%, still shows 85%.
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I have a canyon endurace cf7 with 105.. Reckon the battery will fit in the seatpost? Also - can I do away with the calipers and retain the 105 brake setup?
It should work fine. My mechanical Ultegra bike is setup with LTwoo R9 calipers. Though there was some pad spacing issues which required me to pump the calipers without the brake pads to get them closer to the rotor. Though I prefer this method of adjusting brakes compared to the tight tolerances of my GRX calipers which required me to sand the brake pads slightly.
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I'm starting to find that I really don't like the LTwoo shaped hood. Today I went riding and was getting slight hand numbing. They're too slim compared to the beefier grips on my GRX and Ultegra R8020 equipped bikes which don't give me any issues. Even the Sensah Team Pro shifters I was previously using had thicker hoods. My Ultegra bike has the same drop bars and shifter positioning as well. I'm thinking of trying a -17° degree stem to slightly change the angle of my grip positioning. Any suggestions?
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I am finding it abit thin too. Just do an extra wrap around the hoods with bar tape and it helps. Or put some Eva foam on the hoods before u wrap.
-17 stem would likely make it worse?
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I am finding it abit thin too. Just do an extra wrap around the hoods with bar tape and it helps. Or put some Eva foam on the hoods before u wrap.
-17 stem would likely make it worse?
i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
On my other bike with Ultegra shifters, I did switch to a -17° stem and while that extended my reach slightly, it put less pressure on my grip position. Though I'm not sure if it would help since my main issue is slim grip design that's causing discomfort.
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i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
By the time you need to change cr2032, likely you need to change bar tape too.
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I had a to get my shifter on my GR9 group replaced. 80 Designer store sent me another and I paid shipping. They had the typical timezone delay on responses.
Just received a reply from 80's designer on sending me a new RD and wanted US$15 for shipping.
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i was thinking about the additional bar tape, but then I would end up covering the CR2032 battery port of the shifters.
On my other bike with Ultegra shifters, I did switch to a -17° stem and while that extended my reach slightly, it put less pressure on my grip position. Though I'm not sure if it would help since my main issue is slim grip design that's causing discomfort.
I slipped two pieces of thin bar tape, each 1 to 1.5 inches long under the rubber hoods mainly to provide more cushion and beef up the height to transition the hoods to bar better. Might help in your case too. Used double-sided tape to secure.
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Finkster. Did you have the same nick in clubsnap years ago?
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Finkster. Did you have the same nick in clubsnap years ago?
Yep! ;)
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Just received a reply from 80's designer on sending me a new RD and wanted US$15 for shipping.
Sounds about right. Glad you got it sorted.
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Sounds about right. Glad you got it sorted.
Yep, at least I'll have an extra RD for spare parts.
Anyway, I swopped out the faulty RD with my other newer ER9 RD just to confirm definitively that it is the RD drawing down the batt and not any other component or the batts themselves. The new RD with original FD, batts and shifters remained at 88% for 24hrs. But the faulty RD with brand new and uninstalled FD, batts and shifters (all paired and connected together) dropped from 94% to 84% in 24hrs just sitting on my desk.
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Does the shimano funnel fit the hood bleed port? If not, what is the best bleed kit made for this er9/x groups?
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There are ltwoo bleed kits out now.
SG$8.20 62%OFF | LTWOO L-TWOO Hydraulic Brake Bleed Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_on2Kqcq
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Does the shimano funnel fit the hood bleed port? If not, what is the best bleed kit made for this er9/x groups?
I had to buy the decathlon bleed kit for like 30-40 eur because the one i got from aliexpress (a ztto supposed to be universal) didnnt work: the fitting was too wide to screw into the bleed port on the calipers.
I suggest you get the kit zerstorer just posted from AliX, they must be including the right fitting.
The decathlon kit has metal bits, but i dont think it matters for the occasional mechanic. i'd rather spend 7 eur than 35 on that stuff.
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Yep, at least I'll have an extra RD for spare parts.
Anyway, I swopped out the faulty RD with my other newer ER9 RD just to confirm definitively that it is the RD drawing down the batt and not any other component or the batts themselves. The new RD with original FD, batts and shifters remained at 88% for 24hrs. But the faulty RD with brand new and uninstalled FD, batts and shifters (all paired and connected together) dropped from 94% to 84% in 24hrs just sitting on my desk.
80 designer store really has good service, great solution from them
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To help make my LTwoo shifters more comfortable, I added extra bar tap strips under the rubber hoods. I'm also going to switch back to gel padded gloves. I tend to prefer minimalists gloves with less padding on my Shimano equipped bikes.
Battery life on my ER9 has been very good. For about every 20 miles I only get about 5% battery drain with constant shifting. I can probably do an imperial/metric century with power to spare. Recharging is also quick. My only issue is that buying a spare charging cable is like $20-27 USD on AliEx (depending on sale pricing). I don't need an extra cable immediately, but I wouldn't mind getting one if I plan on traveling with my bike.
If anyone in the US is interested, I bought my batteries from this Ebay seller:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
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My only issue is that buying a spare charging cable is like $20-27 USD on AliEx (depending on sale pricing). I don't need an extra cable immediately, but I wouldn't mind getting one if I plan on traveling with my bike.
Maybe you can build one yourself? I found these, maybe they fit?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002198730186.html
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Maybe you can build one yourself? I found these, maybe they fit?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002198730186.html
The # C cable in that link looks like it could be the same one supplied with the ER9/X? Can anyone confirm? That would be a much cheaper alternative and great to have for travel or just to carry in the saddle for emergencies.
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It won't work with a normal usb charger. The batteries are 7.2V. That's why the usb plug of the charging cable is so big. It will probably increase the 5v output of a normal charger
But if this connector fits, you could theoretically solder it to a charger with the correct output.
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Yesterday I took the ER9 bike out with extra padded shifters and using gel padded gloves. Adding bar tape strips on the inner top part of the shifters helped on comfort and probably using the gel padded gloves as well. Though it's still not as comfortable as bigger Shimano hoods, but at least I didn't get any hand numbing. Also I needed to do some more gear fine tuning specifically in the small/big and big/small combination. I was having slight shift issues shifting up and down the three biggest cogs while on the small chainring. Its most noticeable on climbs constantly shifting while adjusting for elevation and cadence. I'm hoping I have it dialed in now, if not I'll have to do the gear fine tune while riding.
Other than that, the ER9 has been running great. If I was building a new bike now, I wouldn't hesitate using Chinese electronic groupsets. My old semi-internal TFSA frame definitely feels like a new bike with all the component upgrades!
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Any link to order 14500 batteries for ER9 from EU?
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Any link to order 14500 batteries for ER9 from EU?
nkon.nl
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nkon.nl
Ordered already 2 different types of batteries and nobody fit. :(
This are to big: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/keeppower-14500-800mah.html
This don't touch the contact (they don't have button top): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/sanyo-ur14500ac.html
Now I ordered this (hope will be ok): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html
What are the right one?
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Ordered already 2 different types of batteries and nobody fit. :(
This are to big: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/keeppower-14500-800mah.html
This don't touch the contact (they don't have button top): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/sanyo-ur14500ac.html
Now I ordered this (hope will be ok): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/14500-16340/xtar-14500-800mah-protected-1a.html
What are the right one?
the last one should fit well. The first one are protected ones that are way too high.
i got myself a set of this one, which fit perfect and can be recharged in case i left my ltwoo charger at home.
https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/size-14500/keeppower/keeppower-14500-1100mah-li-ion-3-7v-3-6v-with-usb-charging-facility-and-pcb-p1411u_12087_2926
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So rear derailer stopped working, it’s my girlfriends and I’m not sure if she did something or not but it doesn’t work anymore.
It makes a sound when I shift but won’t shift, right before it was shifting from1-5th gear, (1st being biggest sprocket) and then I was messing with it it got stuck in 1 and won’t shift anymore, just a bit of clicking sound.
Does anybody had this happen before.
https://m.youtube.com/shorts/Ufatm9ERIA0
Sounds like I am getting my money back, but I want a rear derailleur
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In the last few days, the er9 RD of a friend died for no reason. Got stuck in the hardest cog and nothing will make it shift, including reset, unplugging, replugging and everything i could think of. The FD works fine.
Then today, went for a ride with my gravel bike, and my own RD died exactly the same way! I went down a descent with bad asphalt and vibrations, at the end of the descent, dead RD.
I'm trying to get a response from l-twoo via the intermediary that sold me the groups, I'll keep you posted.
But as of right now, I'm extremely unhappy and would not recommend er9/erx because a bike has to work, if you can't trust your derailleur to shift, then buy something else.
I'll post updates.
TWO DEAD er9 RDs in one week under normal use.
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https://m.youtube.com/shorts/Ufatm9ERIA0
Try resetting it. Long press the button on the RD, like 10 seconds.
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In the last few days, the er9 RD of a friend died for no reason. Got stuck in the hardest cog and nothing will make it shift, including reset, unplugging, replugging and everything i could think of. The FD works fine.
Then today, went for a ride with my gravel bike, and my own RD died exactly the same way! I went down a descent with bad asphalt and vibrations, at the end of the descent, dead RD.
I'm trying to get a response from l-twoo via the intermediary that sold me the groups, I'll keep you posted.
But as of right now, I'm extremely unhappy and would not recommend er9/erx because a bike has to work, if you can't trust your derailleur to shift, then buy something else.
I'll post updates.
TWO DEAD er9 RDs in one week under normal use.
Keep us posted if you're able to get a replacement RD. I wonder what other issues might be affecting the ER9/X besides water ingress. Does extreme vibration mess with the RD motion sensor, causing it not to wake from sleep mode?
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PEOPLE I HAVE FOUND THE FIX AND MIGHT HELP YOU.
Look at the photo hopefully this will explain and otherwise get in contact with me.
Hopefully this works for you!
(I posted that I had a problem yesterday)
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Looks like buying this groupset is clearly a gamble. Seems to me it just isn't tested good enough and buyers are (once again) beta testers...
Let's hope the next version is better...
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Warranty issues aside how are the details on the groupset? did they copy old shimano mistakes like plastic threads on bleed port, flathead brake pad pin, random useless sharp bit in the caliper etc
and is it possible to buy electronic ltwoo with the zrace/iiipro calipers like it is for the mechanical version?
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PEOPLE I HAVE FOUND THE FIX AND MIGHT HELP YOU.
Look at the photo hopefully this will explain and otherwise get in contact with me.
Hopefully this works for you!
(I posted that I had a problem yesterday)
I can't read your scribbles, but I'm very interested. Would you mind using Paint and the text function, or PowerPoint with text boxes over the photo instead?
Thanks!
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Lol I’m sorry I do scribble but In essence the final drive gear that drives the arm that shifts had a tooth broken off, I’m not sure if this was my girlfriend frantically shifting without pedaling or something like that. She honestly doesn’t know yet how to shift because she is new to cycling.
For this problem you need to have a derailleur that is stuck in a biggest or smallest gear and still makes noise when you shift, or a rear derailleur that stops in a certain gear, for example 1-5 works but then 5-6 is a green flash and some noise but does not actually make the shift. If you diagnose any of those this might help.
But since that shifter arm only moves about 60° or so, I was able to take the derailleur cage off, then move the arm 120° around and then go in the app. Now here is where it gets sort of tricky. If it’s stuck in the smallest sprocket follow 1 if in largest follow 2.
1. Go to the rear derailleur in the app, then click calibrate, it will ask if you are in the 6th sprocket which you need to answer with “yes” ( even though you are not). This will offset the zero and will allow you to shift down 5-6 times (11-12 speed). Repeat this step until the arm has come around anbout 120° and you can mount the cage back on.
2. Go to the rear derailleur in the app, then click calibrate, it will ask if you are in the 6th sprocket which you need to answer “yes” ( even though you are not). This will offset the zero and will allow you to shift up 5-6 times (11-12 speed). Repeat this step until the arm has come around about 120 ° and you can mount the cage back on.
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Warranty issues aside how are the details on the groupset? did they copy old shimano mistakes like plastic threads on bleed port, flathead brake pad pin, random useless sharp bit in the caliper etc
and is it possible to buy electronic ltwoo with the zrace/iiipro calipers like it is for the mechanical version?
LTwoo brake calipers are actually pretty decent. I use them on my Ultegra build bike. Only issue is that I had to manually adjust brake pad spacing (removed the pads) by squeezing the levers several times to get the pistons closer. I think this was an issue with earlier calipers, because my newer ER9 calipers don't need much lever pull.
The Zrace calipers, while being less weight are more cheaply made. On the pair I was using, the pistons can actually fall out if too much pressure is applied without a brake block. Let's just say I had to clean up a big mess.
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The Zrace calipers, while being less weight are more cheaply made. On the pair I was using, the pistons can actually fall out if too much pressure is applied without a brake block. Let's just say I had to clean up a big mess.
Had this happen with shimano... Costly mistake lol. Brought it to a shop and they said shimano specifically asks to not service them in those cases so I had to buy a new one, thankfully of newer generation which is infinitely better made than the old gen sack of shit caliper
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
had quite the same problem yesterday. Try holding the RD button when attached to the charging calbe. The RD jumped into the smallest cog and worked fine since. This should be some kind of factory reset, if i understood right.
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I've been abusing my ER9 all week with fast flats, long climbs and sketchy road descents. I'm definitely using the full range of my shifting. I hop curbs and take my bike on dirt roads, something my mechanical setup could easily handle. I also fixed my mis-shift issues on the 3 big cogs, now it's shifting perfectly.
On occasion I have to press the RD button to link up to the app as opposed to just shaking the bike to have it connect. Besides that everything is working fine. I'll definitely chime in if I have any issues. Not doing any rain rides though!
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
Check the batteries/connection?
Can you see the battery status when power cable is connected?
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had quite the same problem yesterday. Try holding the RD button when attached to the charging calbe. The RD jumped into the smallest cog and worked fine since. This should be some kind of factory reset, if i understood right.
That is a reset indeed. When it's not broken, you can then shift again normally, but you probably have to recalibrate the gears with the app (which, the more you do it, the quicker you get).
But if your RD is F'ed like 2 of mine, then it makes weird noises, and refuses to shift.
Trying to hear back from Ltwoo via the chinese intermediary that sold me the groups, and so far i m getting nowhere.
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That is a reset indeed. When it's not broken, you can then shift again normally, but you probably have to recalibrate the gears with the app (which, the more you do it, the quicker you get).
But if your RD is F'ed like 2 of mine, then it makes weird noises, and refuses to shift.
Trying to hear back from Ltwoo via the chinese intermediary that sold me the groups, and so far i m getting nowhere.
Have you tried contacting LTwoo directly?
https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us (https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us)
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Quick Q, Does eRX have a button that can control the head unit screen like Di2 (Ultegra+) has?
To clarify, with Ultegra and DA Di2, there are buttons on top of the hoods that can be programmed to page up/down on your head-unit.
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No
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Have you tried contacting LTwoo directly?
https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us (https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/Contact_us/Contact_us)
The support / ticket page i saw said to go via your reseller first, so i did. if i understand him correctly (his English is conveniently dubious at critical times), ltwoo is sending him 2 replacements and then he'll have to ship them to me. I'm not sure i understood correctly, it's happening in real time and he's bad at answering emails and gets upset when i chase him. There hasn't been any feedback on what the problem may be / is. If they are sending replacements i guess they're just broken? I would have wished there would be a software / reset solution to it, because it means 2 RDs just randomly died under normal use.
I have extremely mixed feelings about RD randomly dying for no reason, imagine a cycling holiday, a bike tour, or a long day out, how F'ed you are if that happens...
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I have extremely mixed feelings about RD randomly dying for no reason, imagine a cycling holiday, a bike tour, or a long day out, how F'ed you are if that happens...
It's definitely concerning to hear about the ER9/X RDs just dying. By any chance do you have a bar code on your RD? Joe from China Cycling said it should say the manufacturing date. Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm not sure I would take the ER9 groupset as my travel bike either. Luckily I have other mechanical bikes for travel. I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
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Don't know if I should feel happy or sad. My second purchase of the ER9 has been sent back to seller because of the batteries. This is after I sent message to seller (for once they replied) and confirmed if its without batteries. Then I placed the order and sent them order number. No dice. They included battery and pretty much immediately was back in their hands. Now reading these reports, may be it was for the better.
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Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
I have access to 4 of the 5 now (2 broken, 1 on my road bike that's working and 1 that's not broken but on a bike with a broken wheel & a trashed RD hanger, so not seeing any use for several weeks already):
Broken: 250123
Broken: 250123
Working: 250123
Working: 250123
...
Maybe more interestingly full numbers 250123XXXX0119 / 123 / 122 / 133. I blanked out the middle, idk if it's sensitive or not to share the serial #.
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It's definitely concerning to hear about the ER9/X RDs just dying. By any chance do you have a bar code on your RD? Joe from China Cycling said it should say the manufacturing date. Reading the first 6 digits, mine says 250123. If that's dd/mm/yy, that means I have an RD from early last year. :(
I'm not sure I would take the ER9 groupset as my travel bike either. Luckily I have other mechanical bikes for travel. I'm just wondering if there's a way we can narrow down the problematic groupsets or if they're all ticking time bombs! :-\
I have two ER9 sets, one with the RD phantom batt drain fault that I described a few pages back. Both have serial numbers starting with 250123. First set was bought in Nov 2023, second in Feb 2024. More likely that these numbers are just product codes identifying it is an ER9 RD with the following numbers the actual serial number. Unless someone actually owns an ER9 RD that has different first six numbers.
I'm hesitating installing the 2nd ER9 set on my gravel tourer due to reliability concerns. When riding on the road near home in relatively good conditions, its not a big deal, but in a foreign country with limited access to LTWOO ERX/ER9 parts, its a big risk unless you carry a spare ER9 RD around on your travels. With SRAM and Shimano, almost every decent bike shop will be able to provide the needed parts in a jiffy.
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Hello folks,
I do have a doubt about my er9 groupset...
It works perfectly when connected to the charging cable (via the app and sync with the levers), but as soon as I plug it out, nothing happens... No green light on the rear derailleur...
I guess it's not normal but hum...?!
I might have solved my problems... But... Don't ask me how, I don't really know... Plug out/plug in batteries, long press on RD, reset, fine tuning and that's it!
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I have access to 4 of the 5 now (2 broken, 1 on my road bike that's working and 1 that's not broken but on a bike with a broken wheel & a trashed RD hanger, so not seeing any use for several weeks already):
Broken: 250123
Broken: 250123
Working: 250123
Working: 250123
...
Maybe more interestingly full numbers 250123XXXX0119 / 123 / 122 / 133. I blanked out the middle, idk if it's sensitive or not to share the serial #.
You are in the EU? I am familiar with the physical analysis of broken electronic units.
I can't of curse guarantee anything, but if this failure is due to a water ingress or internal dewing event there should be visible traces on the printed board. Sometimes it's also possible to see bad solder joints.
Internal damages of components unfortunately very often do not show any signs of something which can be seen visually. Sometimes they show discoloration on pins or melted housing but that's not always the case.
This analysis is very often destructive,. But .. its already dead, right? ;D
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I have two ER9 sets, one with the RD phantom batt drain fault that I described a few pages back. Both have serial numbers starting with 250123. First set was bought in Nov 2023, second in Feb 2024. More likely that these numbers are just product codes identifying it is an ER9 RD with the following numbers the actual serial number. Unless someone actually owns an ER9 RD that has different first six numbers.
I'm hesitating installing the 2nd ER9 set on my gravel tourer due to reliability concerns. When riding on the road near home in relatively good conditions, its not a big deal, but in a foreign country with limited access to LTWOO ERX/ER9 parts, its a big risk unless you carry a spare ER9 RD around on your travels. With SRAM and Shimano, almost every decent bike shop will be able to provide the needed parts in a jiffy.
I have a ER9 and RD code starts with 250124
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You are in the EU? I am familiar with the physical analysis of broken electronic units.
I can't of curse guarantee anything, but if this failure is due to a water ingress or internal dewing event there should be visible traces on the printed board. Sometimes it's also possible to see bad solder joints.
Internal damages of components unfortunately very often do not show any signs of something which can be seen visually. Sometimes they show discoloration on pins or melted housing but that's not always the case.
This analysis is very often destructive,. But .. its already dead, right? ;D
Yes i'm either in France or Romania. after i get the replacements, let's chat. I may open one myself to see if there's something obvious, i could maybe send you one if you're curious to play around. It would be interesting to figure out what happened.
Either way, neither died because of water or humidity. One died after a descent on bad asphalt with teeth rattling vibration, the other one just died at the very start of the ride, but we're not in humid climate or season so can't be condensation.
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My RD's serial number starts with 250123 as well. Bought in Sept 23.
No issues yet apart from one ride with intermittent shifting due to humidity in the plug. Without issues since I weatherproofed the connection.
I've done roughly 3000km and 16.000 shifts with it. Fingers crossed.
I did shy away from using the bike in a race recently due to the number of reports here. I didn't want to be stranded on the side of the road with non working derailleurs, so I used my mechanical bike. But I've done 6+ hour long gran fondos with this and used the battery with as little as around 25% of its capacity. It kept working. I also regularly ride cobbled and dirt roads on my rides and the vibrations have not been a problem so far.
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Mine is working fine so far, damn I really hope that it just doesn't die in the middle of a race here. But if it happens oh well bad luck than lol
I'm selling an eGR group in Belgium. Don't wonna take the risk on the gravel since I'm mostly far from home when riding gravel.
Asking the price i've paid for it, if it doesn't sell I'll try it anyway.
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I have a ER9 and RD code starts with 250124
Curious which seller you bought your ER9 groupset from? Also report back if you have any issues. If the 250124 is a newer batch with silent revisions, perhaps those are the groupsets to buy?
I somewhat have this love/distrust with the ER9. Now that my ER9 is setup properly, functionality-wise it's been running great. The way I can hammer the shifts on the fly is awesome in conjunction with a close ratio 12 speed cassette, finely tuned cog spacing and gear protection helps so I can just focus on my cadence. I rode my mechanical Ultegra the other day and totally forgot I had no gear protection (shifted into big/big) and I was wondering why my computer wasn't seeing the shifters? Lol
Only if LTwoo weren't such dumba**es and put a bit more effort in refining their product. They could literally sweep the market if the ER9/X was far more reliable. All these user reports of failing RDs and lack of support just undermines a potentially good product. Hell, I'd pay $100 USD extra if they could improve their quality assurance and customer support. The fact I can use 7-13 speed cassettes and use run-of-the-mill rechargeable batteries is enough for me to pay extra.
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So it seems more likely that 250123 and 250124 are batch numbers. I'll have a replacement RD coming in a week or so. We'll see what numbers this one has.
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Yes i'm either in France or Romania. after i get the replacements, let's chat. I may open one myself to see if there's something obvious, i could maybe send you one if you're curious to play around. It would be interesting to figure out what happened.
Either way, neither died because of water or humidity. One died after a descent on bad asphalt with teeth rattling vibration, the other one just died at the very start of the ride, but we're not in humid climate or season so can't be condensation.
;D sometimes the damages are a weirdo combination of several things. Yes, I agree , your description doesn't sound like water at the first space. I am super curious, last year i opened a failed Shimano front derailleur and I could figure out the damage.. purely mechanic damage, the electronic part was super fine. ;D I didn't expect that frankly... I am open for that experiment, let's just chat then :)
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My set that I received a month ago is 250140. Didn't receive my electrical tape yet and did a few pouring rain rides already.
Fingers crossed.
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My set that I received a month ago is 250140. Didn't receive my electrical tape yet and did a few pouring rain rides already.
Fingers crossed.
Okay, so 250123 batches seem to be problematic. 250124 and 250140 could be newer batch runs. Maybe all the deep sales are for the older 250123 batches? What seller did you buy yours from?
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Looks like my first ER9 set is a lemon. After the RD gave me batt drain issues, the right brake lever also has a fault. When pulling the brake lever, at first it travels normally, hits the wall of resistance when the caliper pistons move and brake pads press against the rotor (normal so far). But when more force is applied, a loud clunk comes from the hinge area of the brake lever/shifter, and there is no further force generated by the hydraulics to squeeze harder on the rotor. So essentially, the rear brake doesn't work no matter how hard I pull on the lever. There is felt resistance at the lever, but it feels like something gave way internally of the lever and no fluid is moved from that point. There are no fluid leaks to be seen anywhere.
So to troubleshoot, yet again I had to rob parts from my 2nd ER9 set, installed the right shifter and it totally works fine. No more brake issues.
Contacted 80's designer again to request for a replacement and awaiting their response. Meanwhile I'll try to dissect the lever and see what's wrong if possible.
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Okay, so 250123 batches seem to be problematic. 250124 and 250140 could be newer batch runs. Maybe all the deep sales are for the older 250123 batches? What seller did you buy yours from?
80 Designer store here on Ali.
Contacted 80's designer again to request for a replacement and awaiting their response. Meanwhile I'll try to dissect the lever and see what's wrong if possible.
Atleast this looks like a seller that's handling issues. :s
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I just received an eGR 1x setup. I have a 220124 date code, so let's hope it's in better shape.
Does anyone have both an eRX/eR9 as well as an eGR? Can anyone comment if any of the parts are interchangeable? (i.e using an eGR RD with an eR9 FD,or using eR9 shifters with eGR derailleur, etc.)
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Has anyone tried this set for bleeding.
It's SRAM specific but should work for the calipers?
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001317203067.html
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Just came back from my first ride.
Was super happy with the ER9. Nice shifting (some small adjustments have to be done to be spot on) until i tried to shift both derailleurs at the same time.
Front from big to small and back vice versa. Ended up in a half shifted gear and a complete dead groupset.
Has anyone had this problem before? And is there a hack to bring it back to life without attaching the charging cable?
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Have you tried doing a long hard press on the RD button? Also have you double checked all your battery cables to make sure they aren't loose? Mine are all rubber cemented on the derailleurs and then coated with dielectric grease. Were your batteries charged? I would definitely check all connectors to make sure they are firmly attached.
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Have you tried doing a long hard press on the RD button? Also have you double checked all your battery cables to make sure they aren't loose? Mine are all rubber cemented on the derailleurs and then coated with dielectric grease. Were your batteries charged? I would definitely check all connectors to make sure they are firmly attached.
yes.
yes even unplugged every cable even removed the cables from the battery pack.
and yes everything is charged.
just a small connecting to an external power source and tada everything was back to normal
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Mine is 250132 and it's working fine.
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250123 here as well - eR9 purchased from 80 Designer November 2023. No problems so far but only ~8k shifts as of yet (don't know the mileage), roughly 80/20% paved/unpaved roads; it survived a few minor downpours and subsequent washes.
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Did anybody have to deal with a groupset that was only charging a couple of seconds after connecting it?
If so, was there a fix to deal with it? I have had numerous rides now where midride, the batteries are empty, even though I charged them the night before (or so I thought).
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Try another power bank or DC source.
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Or different batteries.
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i used to use a battery pack thinking it was charging, it wasn't really. I've been using a wall socket, works much better. I wouldn't charge less than once a week though, the battery doesn't last that long (I did use $hit batteries, to be fair, i tested their capacity at 320-380mah each).
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I can already see that the non-proprietary battery pack is going to be both a blessing and a curse for this system. Occasionally, there will be some electronics issues with either the battery pack, wiring, or derailleurs that users (and Ltwoo) are going to have to deal with, but I imagine that much more commonly there will be issues with cheap, garbage cells that fail or are DOA. Savvy troubleshooters may zero in on the root cause quickly enough, but some are going to struggle. I'm no expert on lithium cells, but when I bought mine on Amazon for this setup I was really put off by the number of terrible reviews almost all of the make/model cells had on Amazon in the US. There wasn't a single product that had over 3/5 reviews that had sold more than a dozen units. I opted to go through a site dedicated to selling flashlight batteries, as they at least had some more quality offerings.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
WheelTop! WheelTop, WheelTop EDS...
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.
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Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.
4,2V = fully charged. 3V is definately empty and very low
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These look OK at first sight: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html
Reviews are good and people seem to have measured them. Capacity even looks higher than stated.
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The repeated issues with this groupset are almost pushing me towards disregarding the groupset entirely and move to shimano. As a final and desperate move, I will try it with higher quality batteries. Thanks for the input all.
If you want to nerd out, you can buy a lithium battery tester. I have an EUC i use to ride around town, and i've had extensive problems with its battery, so i've become pretty knowledgeable about lithium. Testing cells is often step 1.
In Europe there's a reputable shop that sells 14500 batteries that's been recommended here several times. I bought mine locally and they're shit, in the sense they have low capacity, but they do work.
To be fair to LTWOO, lithium on planes is such a ridiculous ordeal that it makes sense that as a direct to consumer brand, they have the option to sell groups w/o batteries. It's also in line in spirit with right to repair and all that. Regulations around carrying even the smallest of batteries is stupidly strict, not unlike limiting ebikes at 25kmh. Laws that defy all common sense.
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Contrary to other bad experiences, my ER9 groupset has been working really well. It took a few rides to iron out the kinks, but right now it's running near perfect. I'd almost be tempted to buy another ER9 set! Though I bought it with really low expectations, with the belief it will fail on me at any given moment. If you want race ready equipment with money spent on R&D, extensive customer support and quality assurance, no one should be buying any components from AliExpress!
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I didn't mean to give the wrong impression, because I'm very much a fan of their over-the-counter solution to the battery pack. The $150+ battery pack for the Di2 system is no doubt using exactly the same cells in the same setup as the Ltwoo pack. The only difference is that when the Di2 pack dies, you throw it away and buy a new one from Shimano for another $150+. If you are able to source quality cells, then this pack by Ltwoo is amazing. I chose to buy from a flashlight website because the flashlight consumers have been buying and reviewing and having high expectations of their lithium cells for many years now. They seem to give in-depth accounts of various cells' capacity, quality, current handling, etc.
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Which 14500 type is actually the right one for the battery pack? With or without IC Protection/PCB? And do they require a raised pole or the flat type (height differs between 49 - 51mm)?
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I'm using Skywolfeye 14500 Battery 1200mAh Li-ion 3.7V Rechargeable batteries and they've been working great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
I do wonder if batteries make a difference with some of these bad ER9 groupsets? It's the only major variable besides environmental conditions and riding style (race, commuter, etc.). Perhaps bad batteries could cause RDs to fail?
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I'm using Skywolfeye 14500 Battery 1200mAh Li-ion 3.7V Rechargeable batteries and they've been working great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/155465836365)
I do wonder if batteries make a difference with some of these bad ER9 groupsets? It's the only major variable besides environmental conditions and riding style (race, commuter, etc.). Perhaps bad batteries could cause RDs to fail?
Yes, I can confirm the batteries are an important part. The issue of not being able to charge for more than 10 seconds immediately changed after replacing them. During the fixing process, it was also quite obvious that the charger is quite important. I had multiple rides in a row where the derailleur died mid-ride (even though charging them during the night). I will circle back after the next couple of rides to see whether the issues continue.
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I'm based in Germany. I used cells from German company (reseller?) PATONA. They do all kinds of batteries including big ones for e-scooters and e-bikes. They were slightly more expensive - something like double the price of the cheap stuff on Amazon. But they're working reliably. I guess you really shouldn't save money on the battery.
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On a different topic, does anybody know which OSPW is compatible with this groupset? Not too long ago, I placed LTWOO's OSPW on an indoor bike, and the difference in sound is dramatic. Can we use the same one, and if so, which version specifically?
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i used to use a battery pack thinking it was charging, it wasn't really. I've been using a wall socket, works much better. I wouldn't charge less than once a week though, the battery doesn't last that long (I did use $hit batteries, to be fair, i tested their capacity at 320-380mah each).
Thanks for this. I ended up getting these: EBL14500 3.7V 800mAh Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries from walmart.com. So far so good!
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
Which front chainring are you in while you're attempting this? Is it, perhaps, trying to prevent cross-chaining and shifting to the same ratio but with a different front chainring?
I believe I read a post where someone was pulling their hair out over their Wheeltop electronic derailleur doing something like this before realizing it was a feature not a bug.
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Issues with 12 speed cassettes. I am having a problem getting it to shift into the last 11 tooth cog on two different wheelsets. I have backed off the limit screw so much that it has over-shifted on the outboard side so I don't think the limit screw is the problem. It will actually shift to the 11 and then about 2 seconds later it shifts back up to the 12. if i hold the button down, it will stay in the 11 but as soon as I release the shift button, it shifts back to the 12. I did replace the wonky looking narrow/wide type pulley with one from a 6800 ultegra derailleur I had laying around. That helped shifting all over but the 11 cog is a mystery. When I use an 11 speed wheel and change it to 11 speed in the settings, it has no issue shifting the entire range.
I'm running a 12 speed cassette with no issues. Check your lower limit screw and also try fine tuning in the app. I have my ER9 tuned using gear protection and optimal shifting for climbing in my small chainring. Though I can shift big/big and small/small no issue.
Also check that your derailleur hanger is aligned properly and that your cassette is seated properly in the freehub. I've noticed 12 speed is a bit more finicky so any little thing out of adjustment can affect shifting.
Worst case scenario is reset all settings using the app and start fresh. Make sure to double check if your RD is properly screwed into the derailleur hanger. Good luck!
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Just to verify, you're on a 12 speed chain right? ;D
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I'm running a 12 speed cassette with no issues. Check your lower limit screw and also try fine tuning in the app. I have my ER9 tuned using gear protection and optimal shifting for climbing in my small chainring. Though I can shift big/big and small/small no issue.
Also check that your derailleur hanger is aligned properly and that your cassette is seated properly in the freehub. I've noticed 12 speed is a bit more finicky so any little thing out of adjustment can affect shifting.
Worst case scenario is reset all settings using the app and start fresh. Make sure to double check if your RD is properly screwed into the derailleur hanger. Good luck!
It's not a limit issue that I can tell but I will double check. When I back out the screw it will over shift outboard. I can adjust the trim on the 12 cog to go over to the 11 and it will stay there, but it will not shift to the 11 and stay, I do not have gear protection turned on and it is doing the same in both chainrings up front. Next stop is the factory reset and redoing the 6th gear calibration. Or swap back to the 11 speed cassette. Yes, I use 12 speed chains on all my bikes.
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Try the seventh gear recalibration.
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You could have a bad 12 speed cassette. I would try another 12 speed cassette if possible, do a hard reset on the groupset and see if that will help. If it shifts an 11 speed cassette fine, it should work fine for 12 speed. Something tells me the issue must be hardware related. So you'll have to do your best to narrow down the possibilities.
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You could have a bad 12 speed cassette. I would try another 12 speed cassette if possible, do a hard reset on the groupset and see if that will help. If it shifts an 11 speed cassette fine, it should work fine for 12 speed. Something tells me the issue must be hardware related. So you'll have to do your best to narrow down the possibilities.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions, it is working!! A combination of doing the factory reset via the app and performing the calibration again was the trick. Speaking of hinky cassettes, I think both of my Ultegra cassettes are weird in different places. I get some chattering in a couple of places on one and the other has a bad tooth on the 16 cog that needs some shaving, but other than that, I can shift equally well on ER9 and Ultegra.
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Bit of a shower thought, what is stopping LTWOO (and shimano for that matter because they are 100% in the same boat) from pooping out a MTB shifter? 95% of the research and development is done already with the road groupset, wouldn't they just have to rewire the electronics into a dropbar shifter and merge their MTB derailleur with the clutch and the eGR derailleur? No complicated STI, no front mech etc. What is stopping them, patents?
Also, why not supply titanium bolts for ERX? Would cost them at most another $10 to produce for an easy 50 gram save which would make it competitive with stock duraace in terms of weight
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Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
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Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
Yes, and they already are selling a MTB style e-shifter with their universal electronic shifting system (that retrofits to mechanical derailleurs).
I'm kind of interested in how cross-comptaible all their wireless electronic gear is. For instance, is it possible to integrate their current mtb style shifter with the eGR or eR9/eRX system? For that matter, does an eGR shifter work with the eR9/eRX?
I know some people have bought eR9 and eGR at or around the same time. I'm really hoping someone tries swapping some of these parts and can report back.
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Yes, and they already are selling a MTB style e-shifter with their universal electronic shifting system (that retrofits to mechanical derailleurs).
I'm kind of interested in how cross-comptaible all their wireless electronic gear is. For instance, is it possible to integrate their current mtb style shifter with the eGR or eR9/eRX system? For that matter, does an eGR shifter work with the eR9/eRX?
I know some people have bought eR9 and eGR at or around the same time. I'm really hoping someone tries swapping some of these parts and can report back.
I'm sure the electronic hardware behind the ER9/X and EGR are similar if not the same. The question is if the software will allow the ER9/X and EGR components to "talk" to each other? Also I'm curious if LTwoo's AE MTB electronic shift mechanism can talk to ER9/X and EGR shifters? If so you could create a mullet electronic setup using something like the GRX 820 RD and LTwoo wireless shifters or create a 2x mullet shifting something like 105 12 speed RD, while using an ER9/X FD + shifters.
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Likely the egr mech doesnt support 2x as the rd is the only reciever in the drivetrain and needs to send a signal to shift to the fd. The egr and new erx levers are identical
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Likely the egr mech doesnt support 2x as the rd is the only reciever in the drivetrain and needs to send a signal to shift to the fd. The egr and new erx levers are identical
I remember Trace Velo had problems with his FD not working since it couldn't communicate with the RD which was most likely the main receiver for the shifters. The FD itself doesn't communicate directly. Though it'd be interesting to know if you could mix shifters across various electronic groupset. Like using the LTwoo AE MTB e-shifter mechanism (not sure what to call it) with ER9/X shifters. That would open up the possibilities for other 1x drivetrains at least.
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I remember Trace Velo had problems with his FD not working since it couldn't communicate with the RD which was most likely the main receiver for the shifters. The FD itself doesn't communicate directly. Though it'd be interesting to know if you could mix shifters across various electronic groupset. Like using the LTwoo AE MTB e-shifter mechanism (not sure what to call it) with ER9/X shifters. That would open up the possibilities for other 1x drivetrains at least.
Ltwoo already have flatbar electronic shifters in their cazalogue, just dont seem to be selling them yet
these literally exist for this exact purpose
http://oss.ltwoo.com/pdf/V1.3_2024-L-TWOO%20-PRODUCT_CATALOG.pdf page 27
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Another interesting tidbit from that catalogue, looks like (probably as expected) we should see new ER9 soon to match new ERX.
(https://i.imgur.com/Im3RmvR.png)
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
Hopefully they improved the mechanic design as well as the water protection ..... 8)
I was just thinking about your rear derailleur failure description (the one failing after some tough decent) if it's a smart idea to ride something similar on a MTB with all that mechanic shocks.
I don't think so frankly. If there's a general design flaw this kind of sickness usually gets the whole " product family".
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Do we know what's different? From the panda podium video I didn't understand what changed with the new erx (with the exception of the brakes but i don't think anyone had any issue with the brakes, I certainly didn't).
The FD cage shape was the other external change with the newer blue edition. Not sure what internal changes if any were done though.
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https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?si=vFeF6ydXi8e9R4er&t=671
New ERX will have USB C charging on the FD.
They didn't have to do it, but how nice of them. As a right to repair enthusiast L-Twoo is scoring very high for me between the full gear trim and speed selection, user replaceable battery and now this
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Joe from China Cycling at Shanghai bike show just showed the newly updated (again) Blue edition of eRX will come with USB-C charging port on the front derailleur. That is just awesome! L-Twoo clearly thinks of the ease of use for end users. Pretty exciting, to be honest.
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https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?si=vFeF6ydXi8e9R4er&t=671
New ERX will have USB C charging on the FD.
They didn't have to do it, but how nice of them. As a right to repair enthusiast L-Twoo is scoring very high for me between the full gear trim and speed selection, user replaceable battery and now this
Ah! I posted my comment only a few moment after you did. Yeah! It's very nice of them. I am now eagerly waiting for the much improved eRX.
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
Yes, the brake calipers use BH59 and mineral oil same as shimano, you can use them with shimano shifters
The battery, derailleurs and shifters however you can't reuse, they are a package deal
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
Oh man! At this point, you should get honorary membership for their QA team.
On my last ride, I also seemed to have sudden shift when hitting small potholes. I thought it was one time thing, but then it happened quite a few more times. This was on my second eR9 set. I will keep monitoring this and raise concerns it keeps happening.
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Another interesting tidbit from that catalogue, looks like (probably as expected) we should see new ER9 soon to match new ERX.
(https://i.imgur.com/Im3RmvR.png)
I don't understand why the range on the RD is so small. The latest Shimano 12 speed rear mechs all go to 36.
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Yet another problem with my er9. So, 2 RD died for no reason, that's being sorted.
But last night I put the er9 on my road bike to charge ahead of a mountain ride today. Battery was over 70pc when I put it to charge, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't run out. In the morning, I start the ride, two bars as per be Garmin unit. And it wasn't a fluke. I did the whole ride trying not to shift and the battery died at the very end of the ride.
I plugged it in the wall. It was blinking green. It's not exactly the first time I handle the stuff.
So wtf happened this time? How is charging overnight actually draining the battery? Like wtf?
I am losing patience here. I really want that stuff to work, but man... This is really testing my patience, I feel like I should be getting paid to ride that stuff and debug it.
I had exactly the same thing a couple of hours ago. Previous derailleur died of water ingress. It seems like one bump on the road fried the 2nd one.
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I'm on the opposite spectrum of ER9/X users on here, because my ER9 has been working great. Shifts are spot on and no issues with battery drain. My groupset has been used almost exclusively for climbing on rough mountain roads, so it's not like it's being babied either with the full range of shifting being used. It's been so good I want to buy another ER9. I'm not the most OCD bike mechanic, but I try to make sure everything runs smoothly.
Maybe I'm using some sort of goldilocks combination where everything is working just right or maybe my groupset was built on a Wednesday so QC was a bit better that day! ;D
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After ride number 5 where the shifters stopped working, I have finally reached the point of permanently moving forward. Is there a way to use parts (such as the breaking calipers) in a shimano groupset?
I'm using LTwoo calipers on my other Ultegra mechanical road bike. They work pretty good and I was able to standardize my 3 bikes with the same brake pads (GRX, Ultegra and LTwoo).
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Joe from China Cycling is in the shanghai bike shoe, in his video of day 2, he is talking of the ERx blue edition V2, seems they made some upgrade especially on the charging port which is now usb C and on the FD.
https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485 (https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485)
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I'm on the opposite spectrum of ER9/X users on here, because my ER9 has been working great.
Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
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Wonder how eGR will be charged if it gets redesigned since there's no FD. Not very streamlinely of them
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Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
Exactly... Until everything went to shit i was saying the stuff's amazing.
I charged / tried to charge my group last night after it died yesterday. Charged all night. This morning it was at 77%. Plugged into the wall, no funny business. So... idk. I doubt it's supposed to take more than 12h to fully charge. Which then means there's something that's not working properly. But i'm not in the mood to try to figure it out now.
i have put 3500km on the er9 on my road bike since Feb24.
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Check the charger or the batteries.
Mine does about 7000-8000 shifts before it drops to 30%
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Joe from China Cycling is in the shanghai bike shoe, in his video of day 2, he is talking of the ERx blue edition V2, seems they made some upgrade especially on the charging port which is now usb C and on the FD.
https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485 (https://youtu.be/HUxLUQI2-Us?t=485)
Hello,
I realized yesterday, watching TraceVelo video about bike rack, he is testing the eRx blue edition. Were checking videos and shorts (to know from when) but he did not mention anything about it. He will want to make a good evaluation before giving an opinion.
Greetings!!
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Hello,
I realized yesterday, watching TraceVelo video about bike rack, he is testing the eRx blue edition. Were checking videos and shorts (to know from when) but he did not mention anything about it. He will want to make a good evaluation before giving an opinion.
Greetings!!
His is eRX "blue" "v1". A revision but not the latest Joe showed with usb c
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Well, you haven't had it for that long so too early to tell, I'd say.
Mine's also working fine still all the way through a very wet winter here. I'm past 3000k/1800miles now. I too am cautiously optimistic that I might have a well working unit. But so thought SergeK, until they all broke down on him.
I live in one the best climates for cycling so wet and/or cold weather isn't an issue for me. Though I did take all the preventative precautions for the battery cables. If the weather is wet, either I ride an indoor trainer or I take my gravel bike instead. I used the ER9 as an excuse to move to both 12 speed and electronic.
I'll be the first to report back if I have any issues, but I chanced getting the groupset knowing I wouldn't be riding in extreme weather.