Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: neobiker on July 10, 2025, 04:03:01 AM
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This one looks really aero: the headtube is massive xD
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-disc-brake
32 C clearance, T47 bottom bracket, weight 1100 for M [ouchy?]
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Massive reach and looks like the frame only works with their own handlebar as they use a specific top cap for the bearings.
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I like it - thanks for sharing. Looks fast and reminds me a bit of the Storck Aerfast
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Geometry looks super agressive, I like it a lot. I'll see how the first reviews turn out. And then maybe I'll upgrade from my VB-218 to this one, as it seems to fix one of the major flaws in my eyes (seatpost/clamp strength). Also EPS moulding and UDH is a nice touch
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I was curious when chiner frames were gonna start elongating their head tubes...
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If only those fat tubes had a storage option...
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Size 550 frame is the EXACT geometry I need in my life. 15mm of spacers and 120mm stem. 1015mm wheelbase for stability and weight distribution. 8)
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Size 550 frame is the EXACT geometry I need in my life. 15mm of spacers and 120mm stem. 1015mm wheelbase for stability and weight distribution. 8)
Looking forward to your review then :D
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Size 550 frame is the EXACT geometry I need in my life. 15mm of spacers and 120mm stem. 1015mm wheelbase for stability and weight distribution. 8)
I hope we can watch the review soon then!
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Tchonky boi, I likes!
Similarly, this one popped up on another thread yesterday: https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_aero_design_t1000_carbon_fiber_road_bike_frame_fm126.html
It looks like the numbers in terms of the frame are a little different though. The Mondince says that it clears 40mm wheels vs 32c which doesn't really make sense "T1000" layup which is probably not true since the weights look to be about the same as those specified with T800 on velobuild.
All that to say I think its the same frame and I wonder if the Mondice frame is just far off.
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This one looks really aero: the headtube is massive xD
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-disc-brake
32 C clearance, T47 bottom bracket, weight 1100 for M [ouchy?]
The 1100g for medium is sort of acceptable for an aero frame considering the Factor Monza is quoted at 1100 in a size 54
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It looks like the numbers in terms of the frame are a little different though. The Mondince says that it clears 40mm wheels vs 32c which doesn't really make sense "T1000" layup which is probably not true since the weights look to be about the same as those specified with T800 on velobuild.
All that to say I think its the same frame and I wonder if the Mondice frame is just far off.
The frames look quite a bit different, look at the top of the head tube, on the VB it seems to be a bit cut into the top tube, also the cut out for the rear wheel looks quite a bit different
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So many of the ultra budget brands are just doing copy paste Tarmac SL7/8 clones. Probably because it's more affordable to obtain manufacturing molds of these designs?
This is a good move by VeloBuild. Offer some obnoxiously looking aero frame to appeal to the boy racer in us. The design reminds me a lot of the Simplon Pride frame those German crit bros from D3stroy Cycling Club (DCC) use. That frame won 2 of the 3 days at Tulsa Tough. However, the seatpost and fork are different though.
https://www.simplon.com/en/Bikes/Roadbikes/Pride_b_292366
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKiUE1WPluE/
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So many of the ultra budget brands are just doing copy paste Tarmac SL7/8 clones. Probably because it's more affordable to obtain manufacturing molds of these designs?
This is a good move by VeloBuild. Offer some obnoxiously looking aero frame to appeal to the boy racer in us. The design reminds me a lot of the Simplon Pride frame those German crit bros from D3stroy Cycling Club (DCC) use. That frame won 2 of the 3 days at Tulsa Tough. However, the seatpost and fork are different though.
https://www.simplon.com/en/Bikes/Roadbikes/Pride_b_292366
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKiUE1WPluE/
Hahaha I've got nightmares of that Simplon frame :D they're likeing destroying every race here in Germany
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Holy shit, I'm kinda blown away by this, like this is some incredibly respectable design, I'd totally buy this, but velobuild history scares me a bit. Seatpost's a bit deep and it's t47I, but I can live with it. Geometry is aggressive enough where I can make it work without a ridiculously long or negative angle stem too.
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That seatpost makes my back hurt from only looking at it. It looks like the Tan Tan X38 but even fatter. If it rides anything like the X38, it’s a hard pass for me. It looks cool, though. So kudos for that.
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Wild. Velobuild seems to be hanging out in the places where people discuss STR and whether or not it should be the same across sizes or be fit to a curve.
What this means is that the small sizes have a relatively normal "race" geometry, while the larger ones are a bit on the long side.
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If it rides anything like the X38, it’s a hard pass for me.
Literally my only concern haha. I think we probably already know the answer to this. But I keep telling myself: "no this one will be different."
It's why I finally stopped dating bartenders, hairdressers, and club go-go dancers.
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Literally my only concern haha. I think we probably already know the answer to this. But I keep telling myself: "no this one will be different."
It's why I finally stopped dating bartenders, hairdressers, and club go-go dancers.
:D
It's unlikely that there's any special sauce in the carbon layup of this frame, I guess. So it might just ride exactly the way it looks.
Also, the ST angle is steep to begin with. Given how long the reach is on the bigger sizes, you'd probably run the saddle further forward which increases the effective ST angle even more. That's not gonna help with compliance.
Probably a cool crit frame if you ride it on smooth tarmac, though. I'm curious to see the actual frame built up and ridden. And I really like that VB are trying to do their own thing with stuff like this and their latest aero gravel frame.
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Pretty cool design ! Reminds me of Van Rysel RCR-F with those big fat aero looking tubes.
And according to the enthusiasm on this thread, looks like china needs to develop this aero trend, cause it seems a lot of people are hyped about it.
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Damn that looks awesome!
Can anyone confirm whether or not it's an original design?
Geometry for small is bang on my size 52 SL8.
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progressive geometry :o
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progressive geometry :o
In the road sense, this bike is not that. The Dare VA-AFO and the Noah Fast 3.0 are examples of that. This is just consistent Stack to Reach Ratio or small bike fit for all. It's a very ordinary race bike geo in sizes 52 and 49.
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In the road sense, this bike is not that. The Dare VA-AFO and the Noah Fast 3.0 are examples of that. This is just consistent Stack to Reach Ratio or small bike fit for all. It's a very ordinary race bike geo in sizes 52 and 49.
My understanding of progressive geometry is that the BB is effectively shifted rearward, which results in a steeper STA, longer WB/FC, and reach.
It's essentially slamming your saddle forward done the right way, without making the bike too front-heavy.
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My understanding of progressive geometry is that the BB is effectively shifted rearward, which results in a steeper STA, longer WB/FC, and reach.
It's essentially slamming your saddle forward done the right way, without making the bike too front-heavy.
Are you looking at just the larger 2 sizes? The elements you identify are not very different than a Tarmac SL8 for the smallest three sizes. The larger two sizes do break from the norm, but this is because they chose not to steepen the front, kept the same STA, and the STR ratio is roughly the same. This bike is aggressive, but not to the point of requiring a different fit vs. something more traditional.
The progressive road fit is not usually defined as you did. It’s about shifting the rider forward and down relative to the BB. The bike fitting elements of that fit also involve shorter cranks and a lower saddle mitigate the effect of a forward position forcing a rider is “reach back” during the pedal stroke and loss of glute activation. The upside of doing this is aero. A lot of aero for some riders. Like a knocking .05 or more off your CDA in your aero position.
You are right that to make this work you need a steeper effective STA. 74 degrees is good for large sizes, but pretty standard for small and medium frames on race frames. Half the sizes of the Colnago V5RS have a STA > 74 deg.The seatpost clamp design will also play a role here. Ideally you also extend out the FC, drop the BB, and/or shrink the RC to restore the weight balance usually targeting something like the 60/40 rear bias. This bike has a BB on the lower end of standard, and a very safe 410mm RC.
If you are looking at the larger two sizes, this bike does have a longer FC and reach, but it still falls short of the Noah and VA AFO. For the same reach, the Noah fast is either 2.5cm or 5cm lower. I think the Dare is something like 1cm lower and 1cm longer. That a pretty significant amount of elbow room in both cases. This bike might help you a bit, but you are probably still slamming the seat all the way forward and using a long stem to get into that progressive position.
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Correct, I'm only looking at the larger sizes (in general), and the geometry on the size 550 is exactly what I've been waiting for.
- Steep STA (74°): positions you directly over the BB
- Short RC (410mm): keeps it nimble and responsive (note: SRAM recommends 415mm+ for 13sp UDH)
- Long WB (1015mm) & FC (616mm): stable and planted (with no toe overlap)
The slacker HTA (72˚) also means that you can run a shorter stem (compared to traditional frames) while having the same handling characteristics.
I also like the fact that is less aggressive (regarding STR) than the VA-AFO or Noah Fast.
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Curious about the cockpit too. Are we expecting a stem like the Cervelo S5?
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Just pulled the trigger in size 58.
No plans for the build yet, i just love the deep tubes 😅
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Can anyone confirm whether or not it's an original design?
I'd call myself pretty knowledgeable and I've never seen anything that this could be a direct copy of more than any other bike.
Curious about the cockpit too. Are we expecting a stem like the Cervelo S5?
There's no reason for velobuild to do anything like that, they're not trying to set wind tunnel benchmarks or perform under a pro. They need to sell to people with lower budgets and a proprietary cockpit would kill interest from most of their customer base.
They've also uploades some more renders and there's one that shows a completely normal cockpit.
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It looks like (EDIT aka "resembles", not "it's", for the geometry_nazi ) a Van Rysel RCR-F 8) with a chunkier rear triangle
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Compared to rcr-f. Completely different chainstay, different seattsay angle, shaping and junction with the seattube, different fork crown and integration with the head tube, different head tube shaping, different transitions into the toptube and downtube, different bb junction.
Crucially, vb don't lock you into a ridiculously setback seatpost to go with a slack seat angle.
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The slacker HTA (72˚) also means that you can run a shorter stem (compared to traditional frames) while having the same handling characteristics.
I also like the fact that is less aggressive (regarding STR) than the VA-AFO or Noah Fast.
Ok, I get where you are coming from with the focus on the larger sizes. Compared to a 56 Tarmac, you are gaining 12mm in length and only 3mm in stack; however, the slacker HTA will increase trail, not decrease it. The 43mm offset fork is bog standard so that you will need a longer stem, not a shorter one, for the same handling feel. This isn't a bad thing. This bike should feel stable at speed, but again, the geometry doesn't support your intention.
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Ok, I get where you are coming from with the focus on the larger sizes. Compared to a 56 Tarmac, you are gaining 12mm in length and only 3mm in stack; however, the slacker HTA will increase trail, not decrease it. The 43mm offset fork is bog standard so that you will need a longer stem, not a shorter one, for the same handling feel. This isn't a bad thing. This bike should feel stable at speed, but again, the geometry doesn't support your intention.
No, you're wrong. Slacker HTA will increase trail and therefore will make steering slower. To compensate you can run a shorter stem, which reduces the steering lever length, making the front end feel quicker again.
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No, you're wrong. Slacker HTA will increase trail and therefore will make steering slower. To compensate you can run a shorter stem, which reduces the steering lever length, making the front end feel quicker again.
Way to be confidently wrong. The trail has nothing to do with the rate at which you turn your bars. The angle remains the same. The trail governs the length of the lever providing feedback to the steering opposing your effort. You get stronger feedback with a longer trail, so the steering has more resistance. A longer stem counters this; a shorter stem magnifies this.
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Hey, I got called out based on something that was not correct, so I went ahead and provided more information. When discussing a theoretical frame, I think we should try and provide at least theoretically accurate punditry. Agree on stability. I believe this is a reason why so many Chinese aero frames are going long-trail. It is interesting to me, though, that the long-trail race bike on the WT, the V4RS, is no longer that way, with the V5 adopting a more traditional trail with steeper HTAs and a higher offset fork.
This frame is fascinating for a lot of reasons. Seemingly original design, deep tubes, what looks like a narrow HT profile, and the STR theory thing while very niche, is cool to see put into practice. But I very much want to see a photo of a real frame before I get too excited over those features.
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Does anyone else wonder why this frame can be ordered but there’s not a single photo of it on the site? Are they just lazy or does it actually mean customers literally get the first units to ever come out of the mold? VB was also present at Eurobike, right? But I can’t remember having seen this frame there in the numerous videos online. IIRC they had their new gravel frame at the stand.
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Orders first, customer second.
Probably the same with their new gravel frame, lots of people have ordered, and they've been in limbo since with deadlines slipping.
So i'd say they're running pre sales more than sales, but they dont advertise it that way, probably because in their mind, it makes little difference: people will end up receiving what they order, so why worry?
Is it a shitty way to work? yeah :)
That’s not quite what I meant. I’m thinking that at least in theory they would have had to make at least some samples of the frame and fork to have someone do the required ISO testing to even be allowed to sell them. Therefore, they could have made some product photos. I remember when they started selling the 218 for instance, they had actual detailed photos for both versions of the frame. Lately they don’t. So I wonder if they start selling these without ever having made a single one of them.
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any infos about the bearing cover and headset?
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52*40*7 as described on the website but proprietary bearing cover so hard to get any other handlebar on the frame
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Looking forward to seeing pics of a full build.
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That’s not quite what I meant. I’m thinking that at least in theory they would have had to make at least some samples of the frame and fork to have someone do the required ISO testing to even be allowed to sell them. Therefore, they could have made some product photos. I remember when they started selling the 218 for instance, they had actual detailed photos for both versions of the frame. Lately they don’t. So I wonder if they start selling these without ever having made a single one of them.
Do they really „need“ the ISO?
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Yeah I know but what’s going on there doesn’t seem to be that regulated.
If they want to establish themselves with western retailers it’s something else, but straight b2c …
And if they don’t even state the ISO testing ..
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Well, I’m not an expert by any means. But AFAIK at least under European regulations any seller importing bike parts would have to deliver evidence of the required testing under the ISO 4210 protocol. Whether or not these certificates are actually worth anything in real life, I dunno. I also don’t know about the domestic market in Asia, for instance. This issue has been discussed in other threads here at length, I think.
My point was, for tests to be done, there would have to be physical samples of the frame. So why not just photograph those and market the product with actual photos? This feels a bit half baked but maybe I’m overthinking it.
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As far as I know, you are the importer when buying dtc from china so you are responsible for the safety of the product.
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As far as I know, you are the importer when buying dtc from china so you are responsible for the safety of the product.
Thanks for clarifying. I didn't know that. Looking into it further, there is the GB 3565 standard under the Chinese law, which is somewhat similar to ISO 4210. But again, it is unclear how thoroughly and widespread the authorities actually enforce that sellers adhere to this standard.
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https://www.instagram.com/p/DMvdonuvk21
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This looks like rather good news. Looking forward to the first impressions/reviews here :D
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Got a picture of actual frame (hope attachment works). They should post more on their site soon I'm told.
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But no UDH Standard on the rear axle
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Screenshot from their Insta on the fork, handlebar and frame! The spacers on the handlebar doesn't look very slick?
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I've actually found that thicker seatposts provide more comfort than skinner posts.
It sounds counterintuitive. While skinner seatposts offer more deflection, thicker post absorb way more road vibrations. Assuming all else is equal.
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Haha seems like someone is following this thread ;D
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Haha seems like someone is following this thread ;D
This looks soooo much better than the other picture ;D
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Haha seems like someone is following this thread ;D
Should the spacer not cover the hole in the handlebar?
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If you’re reading here Velobuild, please offer some more options for the handlebars :).
360 is a minimum for an aero bike and then hopefully not only 100mm, but also 110 and 120.
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+1!
If you’re reading here Velobuild, please offer some more options for the handlebars :).
360 is a minimum for an aero bike and then hopefully not only 100mm, but also 110 and 120.
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Feels like Im spamming this thread, but just saw that they updated the website with new pictures of the real frame!
The headtube from the front looks nice :D
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-disc-brake
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The spacer implementation is horrible. It might a deal breaker for me unfortunately.
(https://i.imgur.com/38k5DXN.jpeg)
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What’s your issue with the spacers?
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It's not going to be easy to use a different cockpit unless you get lucky and it happens to fit their proprietary spacers. Even with their own cockpit, it looks like you're forced to use one or two of those oddly angled spacers.
If you want to use a different setup, you'll likely need to design your own bearing cover and possibly your own angled spacers as well.
I really don't see the point of such a proprietary design, especially since the cockpit and headset aren't particularly special. I could understand it if the cockpit sat flush with the top tube for a seamless transition, but it doesn't. Instead, it looks more like a makeshift workaround.
If I had to guess, they probably originally designed the headset for a completely different cockpit (similar to the Ridley Noah Fast 3). But they must have messed it up and attempted to fix it with these awkward spacers to make it work with their standard cockpit.
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Spacers do look horrible, at least the bottom one is hideous. Also looks like they indeed settled on not using UDH which is a bummer. One will have to 3d-print their own top caps + spacers to use other cockpits which won't be too much of a hassle I think
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A new photo of the frame on their website.
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That looks like a weird small size?
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Chris from VeloBuild says the frame is indeed UDH - the first sample (in the pictures) was not and they have changed to UHD since. Hope that's correct.
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That looks like a weird small size?
As a certified short king, I would expect its a 52 or 54 frame
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The more I look at it, the more it reminds me of a beefier version of the TanTan X38 Scott Foil clone.
I'm hoping to find a way of using my own stem and handlebar.
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I like the frame. Unfortunately, I don't like this type of saddle clamp at all for visual reasons. Are there any options for a different seatpost?
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The more I look at it, the more it reminds me of a beefier version of the TanTan X38 Scott Foil clone.
I'm hoping to find a way of using my own stem and handlebar.
Chris wrote this to my friend FWIW:
"No stem which needs adapter ,can i know your stem normal one or integrated ? if so we need 3D drawing of spacers ,then we can help do 3D print top cover here for you."
If you know someone handy with CAD and a 3D printer I guess that's also a possibility.
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I was just thinking about this yesterday, though my line of thinking was: "headset cover adds about 6mm of stack, can I get a cad file of it from them and modify it to reduce that?"
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Just pulled the gun and ordered an 55 with the HB010 380/100mm handlebar. Hopefully it will be fine! Chris said that they have the more oldschool shape HB050 in production with 380/110, but not a fan of the round bends.
So now its just a good long wait until it arrives! :D
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So around this time is when they claimed deliveries would start happening. Anybody heard anything about the status of their orders yet?
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I think they are again going to be delayed. I am looking forward to see how the bike looks and rides before buying one myself. By the way does anyone know if the downtube flares enough to hide the bottles like Systemsix or is it narrower?
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Not at all. It's more like an S5
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So the Trek aero bottle cages should fit spot on.
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I doubt that, I think they'd stick out past the edge.
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Hi all, just registered to share my experiences so far - *waves in lycra*
I ordered an XL AeroTrace back in mid July, possibly one of the very first orders if the 'Sold' counter is anywhere near reliable. As of this morning I hadn't received it, or a shipping notification or even an email to confirm finishing choices (paint etc). I emailed Chris today for an update since it's no longer 'End of August' and got the following response:
"Sorry for delay as after the ISO4210 test ,we improved the carbon structure and frame weight .frame during production already ,size XS S M moulded out ;L XL will be moulded out beginning of next week
we will do best and keep you updated"
I'm in no particular hurry, but looking forward to getting it and building it up. If it's delayed due to ISO testing and improvements relating to that then I won't complain.
I, for whatever reason, like a very forward geometry and my current TCR doesn't allow for this - partly because it's a size too small, and also since it has a proprietary seatpost it's not possible to use the likes of the Profile Design FastForward. The steeper STA compared to most larger frames, plus to a greater extent the TT seatpost with adjustable saddle clamps were big motivators for ordering. Plus it looks badass, and the aero improvements are better than a kick in the teeth.
Happy to update when I hear more about delivery if anyone is interested, and once I've built it up (using the groupset from the TCR) I'll post a few pics and thoughts.
Cheers.
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Hi guys! First and probably last post on here, as I prefer to lark in the dark.
Anyways, I have been in contact with Velobuild about the frame and the (lack) of handlebar options.
Today I received confirmation of the option of 3D printing a different topcap after I created the 3D spacers for FSA ACR for them to "incorporate" to their topcap design.
So, for all of you unhappy with the handlebars/stems, at least anything ACR will be able to fit in the future!!
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I wonder if its possible to make the smallest posible top cap like 2mm so that we can fil normal stem/bar combo and so it can be use for hiding a bit the stem like Dare or Ridley do.
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Whouldn't you just take off the spacers and leave the top cap as is - and then proceed on using your own spacers and handlebar?
given a regular 28.6mm fork tube, any regular integrated handlebar should work just fine - technically speaking.
or are aesthetics everybody's main concern? am I missing something?
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There's no guarantee any random hardware will be compatible and it will have a negative effect on aerodynamics with this design, which is kinda the whole point of this bike.
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Seems like the frames are now starting the be ready for shipping!
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..if only the seat post would be a bit more visually pleasing
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..if only the seat post would be a bit more visually pleasing
Funny, I love the seatpost. Adds to the aero look and is pretty slick - apart from maybe the junction at the top with the seat clamp.
No accounting for taste...
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I personally like everything apart from the fork. To me it looks skinny compared with the depth of the tubes of the the frame.
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I wish to see a bike with a slammed stem, the picture from the website is… intriguing.
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Funny, I love the seatpost. Adds to the aero look and is pretty slick
I fully agree. TT seatpost looks right at home on a frameset with a proportional deep aero profile.
It's why I like it on my latest Polygon Helios-A7. And not so much on my Yoeleo R12.
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The frame alone made me intrigued, but then I saw the picture of the bike with wheels in blue on the site. For some reason that bottom bracket area just looks so out out of proportion.
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I personally like everything apart from the fork. To me it looks skinny compared with the depth of the tubes of the the frame.
I don't dislike it, but I think they could have gone much further with a nice deep blade. Maybe a third party of aftermarket option is available... But as I said I don't mind it enough for the extra money and hassle.
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I don't dislike it, but I think they could have gone much further with a nice deep blade. Maybe a third party of aftermarket option is available... But as I said I don't mind it enough for the extra money and hassle.
Yeah i agree and maybe follow the trend of the factor and BMC with a wide fork. Something like the Morpheus fork i think it would be spot on for this frame.
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The frame alone made me intrigued, but then I saw the picture of the bike with wheels in blue on the site. For some reason that bottom bracket area just looks so out out of proportion.
There is something funny about that 'built' image - clearly it's rendered, and also I wonder if the lack of groupset makes it look out of whack. I hope so, keen to get her built now ;D
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Does anybody know, whether the frame will come with headset bearings and a bottom bracket?
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I bought two frames from VB: both times headset was included. BB is not included (makes sense, cause VB doesn't know which crankset you are using).
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Does anybody know, whether the frame will come with headset bearings and a bottom bracket?
I asked Chris when I ordered. He said yes the headset is included, the BB is T47 and they can supply one for $40 (so not included by default).
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Apparently you can also get a custom paint, besides a matt black / gloss black finish.
Drooling over the possiblity to have this frame in raw carbon with clear coating
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I asked Chris when I ordered. He said yes the headset is included, the BB is T47 and they can supply one for $40 (so not included by default).
Thank you for asking!
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Apparently you can also get a custom paint, besides a matt black / gloss black finish.
Drooling over the possiblity to have this frame in raw carbon with clear coating
Black UD with matte protective coating for me 8) I figure it's easier to add colour via the finishing kit, so I have some matching neon yellow bar tape and bottle cages ready.
By the way in case nobody else checks the product page every few days, it's now saying 'frames available and stock after ISO4210 test ;we will start shipment 20th Sep'.
So better late than never.
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Got curious when I didnt hear anything after the 20th that was the new estimated start of shipping. Wrote to Chris and got the reply that they had to shut down for a few days due to a typhoon and shipping should start beginning of next week. To be continued!
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I've put the order in for one as well now. They need a few weeks to do the custom painting and say it should be shipped around middle of October.
They will include a headset cover for both their own stem and for ACR, so hopefully I have a bit of options in the front.
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I also ordered one. I didn't want any of their handlebars or stems and got a 60 USD discount on the frame. I'm going to build it up with SRAM Rival AXS and a set of Zen 60mm wheels.
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New images up on the website. In my view it looks even better than the ones of the renders and transition between the fork and frame looks smoother. Also i dont know if its me but headtube looks really narrow from the front view. The only thing left is to see how it looks on a full build.
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New images up on the website. In my view it looks even better than the ones of the renders and transition between the fork and frame looks smoother. Also i dont know if its me but headtube looks really narrow from the front view. The only thing left is to see how it looks on a full build.
I'm pretty sure that is my frame order in those photos. Perhaps shipping info will be provided soon :P
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I'm pretty sure that is my frame order in those photos. Perhaps shipping info will be provided soon :P
Is it size 55 and bare carbon finish?
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I'm pretty sure that is my frame order in those photos. Perhaps shipping info will be provided soon :P
Patrick. Did you ever your Tantan x68 and build it up? Maybe I missed it.
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I also ordered one. I didn't want any of their handlebars or stems and got a 60 USD discount on the frame. I'm going to build it up with SRAM Rival AXS and a set of Zen 60mm wheels.
Could you please explain how this discount was applied?
Also, could you let me know which type of handlebars you have in mind to use in this setup?
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I'm pretty sure that is my frame order in those photos. Perhaps shipping info will be provided soon :P
Why did you decide to buy it? From the features (geometry, weight, etc.) it seems very similar to the TT-x38, which you didn't like very much.
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Could you please explain how this discount was applied?
Also, could you let me know which type of handlebars you have in mind to use in this setup?
I messaged Chris @ VB beforehand and confirmed the discount without stem and bars. He said he would refund 60 USD. I ordered it normally and sent a quick reminder to Chris over email about the discount we discussed beforehand.
Re: handlebars, there is a proprietary ACR adapter top-cap that I will use along with some 3D printed adapters from A proto Bike to use either a Kalloy Uno or S-Works Tarmac stem with a regular handlebar.
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My frame has just been shipped - bought on Sep 1st with a raw carbon and clear coat finish.
All of your orders should have been shipped as well, unless you have more complicated custom paint jobs
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Mine too, ordered back in July.
Only issue, the integrated bar is not the size I had asked for (380/100 rather than 380/110) but have asked Chris to confirm/replace/send the right one and I'll return the old one.
No confirmation of my options before shipping, which I was expecting, but the finish (matte carbon) is correct so here's hoping.
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Does anyone know the fork diameter? OD1 (1 1/8" = 28.6mm) or OD2 (1 1/4" = 31.8mm)? I asked Chris, but no answer yet. I can't tell from specifications on the product page.
Would be nice to be able to source a handlebar before arrival of the frame set.
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28.6
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I messaged Chris @ VB beforehand and confirmed the discount without stem and bars. He said he would refund 60 USD. I ordered it normally and sent a quick reminder to Chris over email about the discount we discussed beforehand.
Re: handlebars, there is a proprietary ACR adapter top-cap that I will use along with some 3D printed adapters from A proto Bike to use either a Kalloy Uno or S-Works Tarmac stem with a regular handlebar.
Sorry but how did you message chris? i sent an email mid august but unfortunately i had no reply and the whatsapp number doesn't seem to work for me (whatsapp page gives an error)
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Strange as Chris has replied to my emails every time.
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Hello
since some of you guys will be receiving their frames in the near future I would appreciate it if you could post pictures specifically of the frame's front end, the headset cover and stem situation and how it looks when you slam the stem as much as possible with either of the covers they send with the frame.
I'm interested in the frame because I'm looking for a long reach frame but as it stands I would need size 58 in reach and size 55 in stack. The 58 with a stack of 591 is at least 20 mm too tall but maybe I can make it work with a -17° stem, from looking at the pictures I'm just not sure how many spacers you need to add between headset cover and stem because you surely can't slam the stem on there.
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Happy to, and why not drop Chris a line and see if he'll send some photos over too.
For what it's worth, unless you try to use a gravel frame with road forks or a tt frame this is probably the only way to try a long(ish) reach frame short of looking at Ridley or Dare.
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In a similar boat, at smaller size. I'd really like to get away without a 17° stem as I already have it now and I'm not a fan of the look. Think the standard headset cover adds about 6mm, but that's because it's made a bit thick, it should be possible to make it thinner, like scott foil does at 2mm, but it would have to be a custom 3d print job.
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I've got a printer ;)
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So do I, which is why I'm not too worried for myself.
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I've gone for it :o
Life's too short and I'm curious. It's not 'cheap' - but it's cheaper than Dare.
And she bucks tradition, although probably on the conservative side, but I'm excited to try it.
I've also sized up too. Go big or go home ;D
Shipping on the 20th ish.
Got a bunch of stems in a box ready to try.
Project Oxcart here we come. Tallyho!
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In a similar boat, at smaller size. I'd really like to get away without a 17° stem as I already have it now and I'm not a fan of the look. Think the standard headset cover adds about 6mm, but that's because it's made a bit thick, it should be possible to make it thinner, like scott foil does at 2mm, but it would have to be a custom 3d print job.
Maybe an Arne Peters fit will suit you :)
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No I'm pretty much the exact opposite of him, very low front and very forward saddle. His road tt hip angle is my climbing hip angle.
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Hello
since some of you guys will be receiving their frames in the near future I would appreciate it if you could post pictures specifically of the frame's front end, the headset cover and stem situation and how it looks when you slam the stem as much as possible with either of the covers they send with the frame.
I'm interested in the frame because I'm looking for a long reach frame but as it stands I would need size 58 in reach and size 55 in stack. The 58 with a stack of 591 is at least 20 mm too tall but maybe I can make it work with a -17° stem, from looking at the pictures I'm just not sure how many spacers you need to add between headset cover and stem because you surely can't slam the stem on there.
i´m in the same place as you. I would need 20 mm less stack than the XL size so i am still thinking what would be the smallest spacer needed and if something like the ridley noah spacer or even thinner would be possible to make 3d printed so that we have the minimum stack possible
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Cost-Reach-Stack
Pick two :)
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Cost-Reach-Stack
Pick two :)
I think i could have all of them running a -17 stem and the thinnest headset cover possible ;)
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I think i could have all of them running a -17 stem and the thinnest headset cover possible ;)
Happy days!
I guess we will find out soon....
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I think i could have all of them running a -17 stem and the thinnest headset cover possible ;)
Why not just throw on a longer stem on the smaller size? It'll be a bit extra weight, but that's more or less it. A lot of racers do that here in flat Denmark where aero is king and weight is next to meaningless. Stems of 170-190mm are not uncommon. Personally running a 170mm and no issues with handling. The bigger problem is usually getting your saddle forward enough on most bikes for a proper aggressive position.
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Why not just throw on a longer stem on the smaller size? It'll be a bit extra weight, but that's more or less it. A lot of racers do that here in flat Denmark where aero is king and weight is next to meaningless. Stems of 170-190mm are not uncommon. Personally running a 170mm and no issues with handling. The bigger problem is usually getting your saddle forward enough on most bikes for a proper aggressive position.
I have also tried longer stems on my current bike but i want to try how it feels longer reach bike and the bigger BB drop that this frame has and maybe i will try to go even longer for a tt style position. I will go with the saddle forward within the 5 cm rule, 165 mm cranks and i am also searching for a 110 to 120 mm reach handlebar to have stability and comfort when going aero.
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Why not just throw on a longer stem on the smaller size? It'll be a bit extra weight, but that's more or less it. A lot of racers do that here in flat Denmark where aero is king and weight is next to meaningless. Stems of 170-190mm are not uncommon. Personally running a 170mm and no issues with handling. The bigger problem is usually getting your saddle forward enough on most bikes for a proper aggressive position.
As you say you live in flatland. A setup like you suggest would absolutely destroy your centre of mass on steep descents, which are common enough for me that it has to be considered.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/bNF62X0p/FB-IMG-1759940583057.jpg)
Hadn't seen this one before... Although it's probably in this thread ;D
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(https://i.postimg.cc/bNF62X0p/FB-IMG-1759940583057.jpg)
Hadn't seen this one before... Although it's probably in this thread ;D
It needs a deeper fork
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You may be right, but these guys forks aren't crazy deep...
(https://www.2pedalz.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/SBINF3RID073_image_2048x.png)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_sAhYZNpspMWdQcJq4wRjYWTcecKuITXe6wCTfcWmWUtK1jkPahoEcxWXELN0SIQR5mO5KNsIIYhWZS6TS8Vy_JWax8GY9hc09wQzEX8=s1050)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/bNF62X0p/FB-IMG-1759940583057.jpg)
Hadn't seen this one before... Although it's probably in this thread ;D
Wait why this one has different seatpost?? Is the seatpost shipping with the frame this one or the TT style one?
Also in my view it looks amazing but i agree it would be even better with deeper fork.
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You may be right, but these guys forks aren't crazy deep...
That's true. But I mean purely for the looks. When your seatpost is twice as deep as your fork it just looks weird in my opinion
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Now that I see it built up in a full bike, yeah it really should have a deeper fork, aesthetically. Though I don't like that seatpost. If that's the new standard, I'm no longer interested
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Aerodynamically, a deeper fork isn't an automatic win. Being deeper means more surface friction drag and there is a point of diminishing returns in regards to performance at yaw. Obviously, that's not what VB were looking at when designing this, but I feel like it could use another cm of depth, for looks
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Where did you source the photo of the velobuild?
When I first saw the picture it said it was ChatGPT generated (ie. wheels and groupset). Not sure if that is true or not.
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Where did you source the photo of the velobuild?
When I first saw the picture it said it was ChatGPT generated (ie. wheels and groupset). Not sure if that is true or not.
It was on a Facebook group, can't say anything about the validity but suspect it's generated
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It was on a Facebook group, can't say anything about the validity but suspect it's generated
It is AI. Look at the spokes on the front wheel..
However if that was the new seat post design i am all in!
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Neither the fork design/shape nor seatpost match the photos on the actual frameset on VB's website.
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yeah, attributed some fuzziness of the photo to black parts on black frame on a white background and using a phone, but looking at it closely on a bigger screen, the details are all fucked, very clearly generated slop, just a cancer on modern society
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Apologies folks, should have looked harder :-[
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Frame arrived on Wed.
Very well packaged, and all wrapped in that stretchy foam roll. Haven't fully unpacked it yet - want to keep it protected to take to get built. But I did open up the bars enough to look them over and confirm they are the 380/110 I ordered so very happy about that. The finish that I can see so far is excellent so no reason to believe the rest of it won't be just as good.
Getting it built next week, will update with any observations on the build and some photos once complete.
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If you could take some photos just to see the finishing/frame design I’d appreciate that!
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Frame arrived on Wed.
Very well packaged, and all wrapped in that stretchy foam roll. Haven't fully unpacked it yet - want to keep it protected to take to get built. But I did open up the bars enough to look them over and confirm they are the 380/110 I ordered so very happy about that. The finish that I can see so far is excellent so no reason to believe the rest of it won't be just as good.
Getting it built next week, will update with any observations on the build and some photos once complete.
Aw you tease, don't leave us hanging.... Get some photos up ;D
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Size 55
https://imgur.com/a/igVlLb7
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Size 55
https://imgur.com/a/igVlLb7
Thanks so much, but Imgur has turned off the UK, sob!
Would anyone be kind enough to attach the photo for us backwoods Brits please ;D
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Size 55
https://imgur.com/a/igVlLb7
Is this your frame? if so, how's the finish on the headset holes and bb? looks really good although somewhat far from the 1100g quoted by VB (for size M clear coat without metal parts)
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Thanks so much, but Imgur has turned off the UK, sob!
Would anyone be kind enough to attach the photo for us backwoods Brits please ;D
https://postimg.cc/0rD3Lk89
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Ta very much, really appreciate it x
Ooo, she's a chunky girl isn't she ;D
Going to make it a challenging Weightweenie build, but will have a go!
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You are welcome! It seems quite heavier than anticipated and without paint
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You are welcome! It seems quite heavier than anticipated and without paint
Well, they say weight doesn't matter so much....I guess we're about to find out :o
It does look nice though 8)
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Weights:
Seatpost: 256g
Seatpost hardware: 81g
Handlebar 400x100: 385g
Fork uncut: 481g
Axles: 67g
Headset cover: 23g
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Oh, that looks great!
Are you pleased?
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Is this your frame? if so, how's the finish on the headset holes and bb? looks really good although somewhat far from the 1100g quoted by VB (for size M clear coat without metal parts)
Top headset bearing was a very tight fit and I had to use some sandpaper on the rear dropout to fit the wheel in there. I don’t have a bottom bracket yet but I have uploaded a picture.
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Oh, that looks great!
Are you pleased?
Yes! It‘s a lot heavier than expected but I really like how it looks.
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Is this your frame? if so, how's the finish on the headset holes and bb? looks really good although somewhat far from the 1100g quoted by VB (for size M clear coat without metal parts)
That’s heavy. Even my Tideace CR068 Aeroframe is only at 1300g at size L.
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very beautiful, the front is really spectacular!
The weight is a shame.. my ttx38 which is a frame that has been on the market for a few years weighed 1150g painted :o
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the BB doesn't look faced, that's not gonna be great, are the brake mounts faced?
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No.
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oof, that's not reassuring
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It is heavy but not so much. For example Ribble Ultra Aero is 1200g for the M size frame
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DANG! That looks so aero, I could not care less if it's heavy. Or how awful it will be in the crosswinds.
Imagine pulling up to the coffee shop on that thing. Along with your nuts dragging on the floor.
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DANG! That looks so aero, I could not care less if it's heavy. Or how awful it will be in the crosswinds.
Imagine pulling up to the coffee shop on that thing. Along with your nuts dragging on the floor.
Lolz, nearly made me spit my warm beer out ;D
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It is heavy but not so much. For example Ribble Ultra Aero is 1200g for the M size frame
Ridley Noah Fast 3.0
Frame (XS) 1132g
Fork 505g
I feel better about the weight :-)
ETA... When you look at her, there's about twice as much carbon as you'd find on an SL8, shrug.
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I really like it. Only this seat post head is a no-go.
Any chance of finding another suitable seatpost that has less gap between the saddle and the seat post?
It looks as if the saddle is just sitting on top and doesn't belong to the bike.
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One 5mm spacer is required otherwise it’s not possible to tighten one of the screws.
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Wow, that's a pretty bad oversight.
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I was wrong. An allen key with a ball end fits.
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You're not really supposed to use those for tightening anything, though
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Velobuild posted a complete bike...
There's some more images on their FB page
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CCqxJp9/FB-IMG-1760422996784.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhWsq8R5/FB-IMG-1760423184557.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPd43Yy0/FB-IMG-1760423176580.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/SQwYsCHD/FB-IMG-1760423153979.jpg[img]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/85LQb8Pr/FB-IMG-1760423189944.jpg)
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wonder how they installed the headset cover to make such a smooth transitioning with the handlebar
anyone up for recording an ASMR build up video :D?
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I'm sold on the look of the frame, although i find the all-black pretty boring. Does anyone know if they do colored clearcoat over raw carbon?
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That transition between the seat post and the sadle is something of the most ugly thing I've ever seen on a bike..
The rest of the bike looks great. Like some weird aero monster. But my eyes keep wondering to the sadle :'(
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That transition between the seat post and the sadle is something of the most ugly thing I've ever seen on a bike..
The rest of the bike looks great. Like some weird aero monster. But my eyes keep wondering to the sadle :'(
My arse won't care :-)
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My arse won't care :-)
My bike choices are 80% aesthetic and 20% common sense. I wish it was the other way around!
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Velobuild posted a complete bike...
There's some more images on their FB page
Intersting that they posted the bike with the new Lightcarbon handlebar, must be a customer bike :D
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Here‘s how it looks wit a normal stem and one round 5mm spacer beneath it.
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Thanks for the pictures, looks good!
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Thanks Lorn, that's really helpful.
Other images as requested...
(https://i.postimg.cc/85LQb8Pr/FB-IMG-1760423189944.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yW4x5N6N/FB-IMG-1760423164382.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Zn3p02Cm/FB-IMG-1760423146790.jpg)
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the frame in the facebook post seems to be a 490 from my measurements, not sure if it's mentioned but it's a small or even extra small
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I'm sold on the look of the frame, although i find the all-black pretty boring. Does anyone know if they do colored clearcoat over raw carbon?
on the velobuild website you can pay a little extra for custom paint, depending on the amount of colors and/or effect.
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the frame in the facebook post seems to be a 490 from my measurements, not sure if it's mentioned but it's a small or even extra small
Well done! They said it's a 49 on their Insta.
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Such a WIDE seatpost like that really does require an adjustable TT style fore/aft saddle clamp. Function over form.
It lets VB only have to develop a single seatpost. Although I suspect not a single customer needs a 15mm offset, including myself. In fact I've been moving my saddle forward these days. Really just depends on the seat tube angle. My Scott Foil has a deep post as well but uses a single bolt clamp. So it could be done if VB wanted.
I would love to see how this VB-R-368 performs in a 4 corner circle for 40 minutes.
The main sprinter on this team took the first two days of Tulsa Tough this past summer. Riding what appears to be the final boss of aero bikes.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DKiUE1WPluE/
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Such a WIDE seatpost like that really does require an adjustable TT style fore/aft saddle clamp. Function over form.
It lets VB only have to develop a single seatpost. Although I suspect not a single customer needs a 15mm offset, including myself. In fact I've been moving my saddle forward these days. Really just depends on the seat tube angle. My Scott Foil has a deep post as well but uses a single bolt clamp. So it could be done if VB wanted.
I would love to see this VB-R-368 performs in a 4 corner circle for 40 minutes.
The main sprinter on this team took the first two days of Tulsa Tough this past summer. Riding what appears to be the final boss of aero bikes.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/
DKiUE1WPluE/
Love that Simplon Pride 8)
Seen the new S5 on Saturday in store that bike also looks 8)
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That's unironically a faster bike than any WT rider has.
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Intersting that they posted the bike with the new Lightcarbon handlebar, must be a customer bike :D
Looks to be the T4 Ultra handlebars and not the new Lightcarbon ones. These handlebars don't have the traditional two bolt clamping mechanism
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Such a WIDE seatpost like that really does require an adjustable TT style fore/aft saddle clamp. Function over form.
It lets VB only have to develop a single seatpost. Although I suspect not a single customer needs a 15mm offset, including myself. In fact I've been moving my saddle forward these days. Really just depends on the seat tube angle. My Scott Foil has a deep post as well but uses a single bolt clamp. So it could be done if VB wanted.
I would love to see how this VB-R-368 performs in a 4 corner circle for 40 minutes.
The main sprinter on this team took the first two days of Tulsa Tough this past summer. Riding what appears to be the final boss of aero bikes.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DKiUE1WPluE/
I actually usually need some offset because i use an ISM saddle for specific events and inline seaposts don't work very well with it, but i agree i'm a very small niche.
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on the velobuild website you can pay a little extra for custom paint, depending on the amount of colors and/or effect.
i left a comment asking this in the instagram post, let's see what they reply ;D
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i left a comment asking this in the instagram post, let's see what they reply ;D
If you dont get a reply, email Chris and ask. I got the option of regular clearcoat on raw carbon. But think they can sort you out!
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slowly getting in shape! love the frame (size 49)
you can also have your seatpost painted in the same style as the frame, in case that's your thing.
but first time building a bik for me - can somebody tell me what that black ring is good for?
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tovu: looks sweet, are those 50 or 60mm deep wheels?
That is fork crown race, some forks dont have that angle molded in, it comes as standard with headset, if you fork does not need it (have that angle already molded in) I guess just can just leave it.
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It's a crown race. Should go on the fork steerer for the bottom head tube bearing to sit on
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If anyone has already received a XL frame and have images of it please post them because i would like to see how it looks. :P :P
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If anyone has already received a XL frame and have images of it please post them because i would like to see how it looks. :P :P
Don't think XLs start shipping until the 20/10
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slowly getting in shape! love the frame (size 49)
you can also have your seatpost painted in the same style as the frame, in case that's your thing.
but first time building a bik for me - can somebody tell me what that black ring is good for?
thanks for the photos, please let us know how it rides when you get it built!
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If you dont get a reply, email Chris and ask. I got the option of regular clearcoat on raw carbon. But think they can sort you out!
i got a half reply, yes on the clearcoat over raw but no comment on the tint. i'll email chris before ordering (as i don't want the integrated cockpit anyway)
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Don't think XLs start shipping until the 20/10
I got my XL last week, then I did order it very early. Dropping it in tonight to get built. Part of me would love to do it myself but I lack the time, knowledge, tools and confidence so am outsourcing.
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I got my XL last week, then I did order it very early. Dropping it in tonight to get built. Part of me would love to do it myself but I lack the time, knowledge, tools and confidence so am outsourcing.
Ooooo you lucky bugger!
Pop some photos up if and when you get a chance :)
How was the tracking btw?
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It looks very cool. But how fast is it really? And what about his stiffness?
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It looks very cool. But how fast is it really? And what about his stiffness?
It'll feel like you've got an extra 50watts in your legs ;D
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Ooooo you lucky bugger!
Pop some photos up if and when you get a chance :)
How was the tracking btw?
I'll see if I can get a few photos after we unwrap it and before I have to leave him to it!
Tracking was OK but not sure if it was accurate - absolutely nothing for about a week, then 2 days between showing dispatch and arriving at my office.
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It looks very cool. But how fast is it really? And what about his stiffness?
In theory it shouldnt be slow because of the depth of the head tube and also headtube doesnt seem to be too wide but in reality noone will know it unless they release any cfd data or someone does real world testing comparing it to other aero bikes.
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There are some not ideal design decisions. If you put it in a wind tunnel, it probably wouldn't score with the top western aero bikes, but it probably wouldn't be a parachute either.
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There are some not ideal design decisions. If you put it in a wind tunnel, it probably wouldn't score with the top western aero bikes, but it probably wouldn't be a parachute either.
i feel like this frame was a good candidate for a wide fork like the quickpro ER:ONE or the new factor prototype. I agree on the testing, what looks aero does not always test well. I would have sized the downtube up a little bit to cover round bottles better, as now you have to use aero bottles if you want a nice transition. I would wager it's similar to a systemsix
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There are some not ideal design decisions. If you put it in a wind tunnel, it probably wouldn't score with the top western aero bikes, but it probably wouldn't be a parachute either.
Didn't both the SL8 and Evolve Cima score pretty well in the wind tunnel? This highlights your point.
I just appreciate VeloBuild doing something different enough than the one-bike-to-rule-them bandwagon. Or just producing a whole bunch of clones from Western brands, and then sending negative pushback to YouTubers for speaking on said clones in their YouTube videos.
Not that this has happened to me or anything...
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A little bit of fluids 101: Two first-order things are happening on these aero bikes.
- Deeper tubes help keep flow attached, this is particularly evident at higher yaws
- Deeper tubes create more drag through both having more area and also creating a low-pressure region on the leeward side of the foil
This means that the fastest shape is an optimization problem between the shape (incl depth) and the yaw angle. You can make a foil too deep, which slows it down. Layering in optimization for weight, and it's easy to see why the rationale for all-around race bikes exists.
Similarly, wider forks are not always faster, as you are now balancing increased flow between wider blade spacing, with the depth/shape of those blades, and should also account for wheel/tire / spoke aero issues. It's an even more complicated optimization problem.
Where does this leave the 368? I would bet that real-world testing methods, either with an aerostick or using the zero-elevation/Chung method, would show that this bike is slower than an SL8. Might be closer in a tunnel, tho.
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Yesterday I carefully watched a video that showed the X-Lab. This Velobuild frame design seems very similar to the X-Lab; however, the seatpost is different, as they used the same one from the TT, and the fork is much narrower than the X-Lab’s.
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Did you know the Venge tested faster than the SL8. Quite depressing.
Maybe they'll address the pro teams demands of a new aero bike.
A little bit of fluids 101: Two first-order things are happening on these aero bikes.
- Deeper tubes help keep flow attached, this is particularly evident at higher yaws
- Deeper tubes create more drag through both having more area and also creating a low-pressure region on the leeward side of the foil
This means that the fastest shape is an optimization problem between the shape (incl depth) and the yaw angle. You can make a foil too deep, which slows it down. Layering in optimization for weight, and it's easy to see why the rationale for all-around race bikes exists.
Similarly, wider forks are not always faster, as you are now balancing increased flow between wider blade spacing, with the depth/shape of those blades, and should also account for wheel/tire / spoke aero issues. It's an even more complicated optimization problem.
Where does this leave the 368? I would bet that real-world testing methods, either with an aerostick or using the zero-elevation/Chung method, would show that this bike is slower than an SL8. Might be closer in a tunnel, tho.
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I have aero testing equipment (Gibli sensor). Would be very interesting to benchmark this frame vs my Aeroad.
If anyone is in the Netherlands and has this frame, feel free to drop me a message.
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AI suggested that this frame is most similar to the SIMPLON PRIDE frame https://www.simplon.com/en/Bikes/Roadbikes/Pride_b_292366
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AI suggested that this frame is most similar to the SIMPLON PRIDE frame https://www.simplon.com/en/Bikes/Roadbikes/Pride_b_292366
Interesting. The fork is much nicer looking on the Simplon, for sure. I think people are correct that this bike would look better with a fatter fork.
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what makes sexy aero frames to my eyes are the very thin seat tubes, when you watch them from behind.
Maybe is more critical to make a thin one (like almost top aero frames), but they really did their best to make it bad looking :) especially in the part where the saddle fits.
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Yes, a wide fork would be in the theme. It seems that this is a new direction in aero.
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Yes, a wide fork would be in the theme. It seems that this is a new direction in aero.
I agree but it doesnt bothers me because it is something they could do it in the future if they want or we could probably find an aftermarket one. From an engineering perspective i have read that there are big gains if its properly done (maybe some engineer could explain it here 8)).
By the way another thing i like about this frame it´s that at least on the bigger sizes (i still havent seen the XL) seatstays apear to be really low compared to other aero bikes (not the new Argon 18) which in theory should help with comfort and maybe aero.
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Any of you looking at it in terms of fit and geo?
I kinda love the stealth bomber silhouette 8) but the main attraction was to try something different to the established norms.
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I agree but it doesnt bothers me because it is something they could do it in the future if they want or we could probably find an aftermarket one. From an engineering perspective i have read that there are big gains if its properly done (maybe some engineer could explain it here 8)).
By the way another thing i like about this frame it´s that at least on the bigger sizes (i still havent seen the XL) seatstays apear to be really low compared to other aero bikes (not the new Argon 18) which in theory should help with comfort and maybe aero.
The legs of the wide fork cover your legs. At least a little bit. And the steps of the foot can cover the back feathers a little.
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Any of you looking at it in terms of fit and geo?
I kinda love the stealth bomber silhouette 8) but the main attraction was to try something different to the established norms.
I got mine solely for the geometry. The aero was purely a bonus, as with the looks (honest your honour). Steeper STA, much greater saddle offset from the TT seatpost, and reasonable Stack:Reach ratio. There were very few other options I could find, buy and afford.
A Noah Fast 3.0 was good but I think is only 0 offset on the saddle. Oh and it's 5k for the frame alone.
Also considered a Look 785 Huez with FastForward seatpost, and a Ribble AllRoad with the same but when I saw the AeroTrace it blew them all away on all geometry, looks and cost. Choice of colours, bar options etc were an added bonus. That said, it is replacing my only bike so I'm a little nervous that I've gone OTT ;D
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New photo of a size 46 frame (instagram)
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Chris sent me these recently of size 46 and 49 in case anyone else wants to have a look as well. Seems like one of the photos is the same as the one on Instagram.
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What bars are better HB010 or HB050?
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What bars are better HB010 or HB050?
Mostly personal preference - the geometry in terms of reach and drop is the same for both. The only difference I'm aware of is that the HB-050 (the straight bar) comes in one extra size 380/110 that the HB-010 does not.
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here we go, already the first signs of bad build quality
cross threading between rear axis and udh hanger - head of the rear axis got stripped while trying to unscrew the axis. now everything is fixed at the rear ;D
does anyone have experience with a stripped and cross-threaded rear axis?
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here we go, already the first signs of bad build quality
cross threading between rear axis and udh hanger - head of the rear axis got stripped while trying to unscrew the axis. now everything is fixed at the rear ;D
does anyone have experience with a stripped and cross-threaded rear axis?
Have you tried reaching out to velobuild? looks like a manufacturing defect in the UDH hanger (which thankfully can be replaced). Send them some photos and i'm sure they will sort it out.
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It's more severe than that.
I cannot remove the rear axis anymore, because it's already cross-threaded with the udh rear hanger.
I can't remove the udh rear hanger, because its cross-threaded to the axis.
I can't remove the axis, because the head screw is completely stripped (very soft material).
my rear wheel is completeley locked
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Okay so what you will need is a screw extractor. A proper bike shop should have them and be able to help you with that. Otherwise you should be able to get a set at any decent hardware store, but they should also be used with a power drill.
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It's more severe than that.
I cannot remove the rear axis anymore, because it's already cross-threaded with the udh rear hanger.
I can't remove the udh rear hanger, because its cross-threaded to the axis.
I can't remove the axis, because the head screw is completely stripped (very soft material).
my rear wheel is completeley locked
Not sure how much of this is down to user error and not having a professional bike mechanic background or experience and how much it is down to quality.
I've seen clients do this with much much more expensive western frames.
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I'm pretty sure that is my frame order in those photos. Perhaps shipping info will be provided soon :P
When we will see more details?
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When we will see more details?
Check my IG story 40 mins ago 8)
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Check my IG story 40 mins ago 8)
Can't see your IG story, or it hasn't appeared yet :-\ but it's that a size XL?
Cheers!
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Check my IG story 40 mins ago 8)
nice! is that a 55? hopefully it's not 1.5kg like the one posted a few pages back ;D
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Check my IG story 40 mins ago 8)
I will be waiting your video before the black friday ;D
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Okay so what you will need is a screw extractor. A proper bike shop should have them and be able to help you with that. Otherwise you should be able to get a set at any decent hardware store, but they should also be used with a power drill.
cheers! worked like a charm! Had to use a saw to fix it, but it worked out in the end.
Here she is. Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
Front fork unfortunately still ratlles back and forth, especially when braking. the fork already comes with an angled base, so I could not fit the fork crown race, maybe that's the reason?
If any of you have the same problem or maybe arleady found a solution, it'd be much appreciated if you could share :)
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cheers! worked like a charm! Had to use a saw to fix it, but it worked out in the end.
Here she is. Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
Front fork unfortunately still ratlles back and forth, especially when braking. the fork already comes with an angled base, so I could not fit the fork crown race, maybe that's the reason?
If any of you have the same problem or maybe arleady found a solution, it'd be much appreciated if you could share :)
I was wondering the same when trying to build mine, how does the crown race fit? If anyone has done this before please help us out haha
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No screw to tighten the seatpost? Or that it still slips after tightening to the right torque?
Anyways, it looks great! Just hope it rides as good when you solve the rest of the issues :)
cheers! worked like a charm! Had to use a saw to fix it, but it worked out in the end.
Here she is. Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
Front fork unfortunately still ratlles back and forth, especially when braking. the fork already comes with an angled base, so I could not fit the fork crown race, maybe that's the reason?
If any of you have the same problem or maybe arleady found a solution, it'd be much appreciated if you could share :)
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Hang on... Two things
No way to tighten seat post :o No wedge or anything? Bolt underneath top tube?
Rattling forks :o
Not sure I'd want to ride it!
Do you have any photos of the forks pre installation?
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Hang on... Two things
No way to tighten seat post :o No wedge or anything? Bolt underneath top tube?
Rattling forks :o
Not sure I'd want to ride it!
Do you have any photos of the forks pre installation?
I can talk about my experience and the seatpost hasn’t been an issue and came with all the necessary parts.
I only got this photo of the fork that shows the base of the fork where the crown race doesn’t seat properly. It might be user error so I don’t want to blame it on the frame without a proper mechanic’s opinion.
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Hang on... Two things
No way to tighten seat post :o No wedge or anything? Bolt underneath top tube?
Rattling forks :o
Not sure I'd want to ride it!
Do you have any photos of the forks pre installation?
No seat bolt anywhere. There's a wedge inside the frame, on which the seatpost rests. you have to cut the seat tube to reach your desired seat height.
Asked the guys from velobuild. let's wait for their response
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I will also add the weight if anyone is interested
Frame Size 49, w/o metal parts and glossy blue chameleon: 1388g
Handlebar 380/100: 387 g
Seatpost uncut: 215g
Fork uncut: 495
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Oh no that's SHIT, cutting the seatpost to exact length? That's even worse than an ISP
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There's a wedge inside the frame, on which the seatpost rests. you have to cut the seat tube to reach your desired seat height.
Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
PLEASE take your bike to a real bike shop, the more you post the more I worry for your safety.
Also, check in all the little boxes and little bags for the seatpost wedge clamp that would be pushed in where you for some reason have stuffed tissues down. Hopefully you didn't throw it in the trash. Photo attached as an example.
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Oh no that's SHIT, cutting the seatpost to exact length? That's even worse than an ISP
Bro, please. That's clearly not the case.
Check velobuilds own photos, you can clearly see a clamp.
OP is just having a few bad days of learning bike mechanics the hard/unsafe way.
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Ouch, the weights still doesn't seem promising...
I will also add the weight if anyone is interested
Frame Size 49, w/o metal parts and glossy blue chameleon: 1388g
Handlebar 380/100: 387 g
Seatpost uncut: 215g
Fork uncut: 495
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This is the seatpost clamp. If you can’t see the screw, maybe it’s installed upside down.
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My god ... am both embarrassed and grateful for your comments! Would have never realized that the seat clamp was missing.
Thank you guys! seriously! Double checked every corner of the box and every plastic bag. Believe mine came without a seat clamp. Just reached out to Velo to send it.
cheers!
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My god ... am both embarrassed and grateful for your comments! Would have never realized that the seat clamp was missing.
Thank you guys! seriously! Double checked every corner of the box and every plastic bag. Believe mine came without a seat clamp. Just reached out to Velo to send it.
cheers!
That's what we're here for ;)
On a more serious note, get your forks and bearings checked, you're going to get hurt if it's loose.
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cheers! worked like a charm! Had to use a saw to fix it, but it worked out in the end.
Here she is. Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
Front fork unfortunately still ratlles back and forth, especially when braking. the fork already comes with an angled base, so I could not fit the fork crown race, maybe that's the reason?
If any of you have the same problem or maybe arleady found a solution, it'd be much appreciated if you could share :)
What is the handlebar, can you share more pics?
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Looks like a winspace hyper handlebar, not sure which model though. Not the VB-supplied one for sure
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nothing as fancy. picked it up from ali
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006064584530.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.21986368iJWwVk&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
380mm x 130mm
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nothing as fancy. picked it up from ali
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006064584530.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.21986368iJWwVk&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
380mm x 130mm
just to put the frame into perspective, what is your saddle height?
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new picture on VB site, also looks like a size 49. Unfortunately non-drive side :(
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cheers! worked like a charm! Had to use a saw to fix it, but it worked out in the end.
Here she is. Seatpost needs carbon paste because there is no screw to tighten anything. Pushed some tissues into the seat hole to fill out the gap between seatpost and frame.
Front fork unfortunately still ratlles back and forth, especially when braking. the fork already comes with an angled base, so I could not fit the fork crown race, maybe that's the reason?
If any of you have the same problem or maybe arleady found a solution, it'd be much appreciated if you could share :)
Lmao what the hell is this fake ass van rysel sticker. Dude just stop, this is embarrassing
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new picture on VB site, also looks like a size 49. Unfortunately non-drive side :(
Why's it pixelated? Japanese tentacle porn on the side? :-X ;)
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just to put the frame into perspective, what is your saddle height?
Frame size 49. Saddle height 73cm
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Lmao what the hell is this fake ass van rysel sticker. Dude just stop, this is embarrassing
Hell nah, she fly as fuck with these decals
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Hell nah, she fly as fuck with these decals
*Fake as fuck
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Chris just replied that they're planning on shipping the frame set I ordered about a month ago on Monday - size 46 with custom paint. I expect 2-3 weeks delivery time, so will hopefully get it around middle of November. Ryet Aircode saddle just arrived and LightCarbon HBR17 360x130mm handlebar is on the way already as well. Group set to be sourced more locally within the next weeks :D
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Chris just replied that they're planning on shipping the frame set I ordered about a month ago on Monday - size 46 with custom paint. I expect 2-3 weeks delivery time, so will hopefully get it around middle of November. Ryet Aircode saddle just arrived and LightCarbon HBR17 360x130mm handlebar is on the way already as well. Group set to be sourced more locally within the next weeks :D
Really interested in the ride feel when you build it up. Given the frame weight i would assume that they used flexier carbon and epoxy, but the tube profiles and the seatpost suggest a harsher ride.
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new picture on VB site, also looks like a size 49. Unfortunately non-drive side :(
The guy's in good shape, he eats well at the cafeteria ;D
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Really interested in the ride feel when you build it up. Given the frame weight i would assume that they used flexier carbon and epoxy, but the tube profiles and the seatpost suggest a harsher ride.
It's actually for my GF, so it would be second-hand feedback, but I'll ask her how it compares to her current S5 rim - though usually she's not very good at feeling differences in ride characteristics (which is also why I'm not too worried about this frame for her). A friend of mine also has a larger size on order, so can hear him as well when he gets it build.
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I was wondering the same when trying to build mine, how does the crown race fit? If anyone has done this before please help us out haha
They posted a picture on how the fork and handlebar should be assembled. I sticked to the script, but still get the wobbling sensation (not up and down, but back and forth)
Anyone else with the same problem? Does direction of headset BB maybe play a role?
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Have you got the top cap torqued down enough?
Check the cap isn't touching the top of the forks.
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Regularly the C ring is out of tolerance and leads to a wobbling fork. If it is out of metal that’s the case.
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They blurred out the frame decal because it probably said Van Rysel.
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nothing as fancy. picked it up from ali
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006064584530.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.21986368iJWwVk&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
380mm x 130mm
I was thinking that I could only use Velobuild handlebars, but if I don’t use spacers, is it possible to install any handlebar?
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Chris just replied that they're planning on shipping the frame set I ordered about a month ago on Monday - size 46 with custom paint. I expect 2-3 weeks delivery time, so will hopefully get it around middle of November. Ryet Aircode saddle just arrived and LightCarbon HBR17 360x130mm handlebar is on the way already as well. Group set to be sourced more locally within the next weeks :D
Is that one in pink? It looks like it's size XS, I'll also order XS with a custom color.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-aerotrace-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-pink-glossy-paint-size-s
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No, my colour is IceBreak Pink on top front fading to black. But thanks for the picture, most complete bike I've seen of that size yet.
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No, my colour is IceBreak Pink on top front fading to black. But thanks for the picture, most complete bike I've seen of that size yet.
Thank you! When you have the product ready, please share some pictures. I’m thinking of using two colors like this, but with black flake and chameleon pink, still not completely sure yet.
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Got my frame. Here are some weights! Size 49 with glossy tinted clear coat finish.
482g fork
208g seatpost
48g di2 battery holder
35g F thru axle
41g R thru axle
58g included compression plug
12g metal c ring
34g seatpost wedge
11g seatpost grommet
30g UDH hanger
22g ACR adapter
61g headset bearings
1375g frame with grommets, FD hanger and bottle bolts
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Got my frame. Here are some weights! Size 49 with glossy tinted clear coat finish.
482g fork
208g seatpost
48g di2 battery holder
35g F thru axle
41g R thru axle
58g included compression plug
12g metal c ring
34g seatpost wedge
11g seatpost grommet
30g UDH hanger
22g ACR adapter
61g headset bearings
1375g frame with grommets, FD hanger and bottle bolts
Do you mind sending a picture of the ACR adapter. I'm interested to see how they implement my STL file.
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Got my frame. Here are some weights! Size 49 with glossy tinted clear coat finish.
482g fork
208g seatpost
48g di2 battery holder
35g F thru axle
41g R thru axle
58g included compression plug
12g metal c ring
34g seatpost wedge
11g seatpost grommet
30g UDH hanger
22g ACR adapter
61g headset bearings
1375g frame with grommets, FD hanger and bottle bolts
Please send us photos, really intrigued in the tinted clear ;D
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Got my frame. Here are some weights! Size 49 with glossy tinted clear coat finish.
482g fork
208g seatpost
48g di2 battery holder
35g F thru axle
41g R thru axle
58g included compression plug
12g metal c ring
34g seatpost wedge
11g seatpost grommet
30g UDH hanger
22g ACR adapter
61g headset bearings
1375g frame with grommets, FD hanger and bottle bolts
Certainly ain’t no Lightweight!
That one huuuge bItch 🤣
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The white frame decals probably aren't desired for most folks in here. But I understand it from VeloBuild's marketing perspective for sending me a frameset for review. Perhaps a different font in the future. I think the decals will look totally fine with some matching white decal wheels. A billboard on wheels I am.
Size 52/Medium - Basically the equivalent stack/reach of a size 56 in most Western brands, if you factor in 20mm of spacers for the recessed headtube. I've been running my bikes slammed for the time being anyway.
VeloBuild provided TWO 3D printed headset covers: One is for VB's in house stem, and the other for using an FSA/ACR standard cockpit. A really nice touch. VeloBuild also created a 3D printed Shimano Di2 battery holder since the battery itself wont fit inside the actual seatpost. Go figure. I've seen these sorts of detail and hardware only on Western bikes.
I'm pretty excited to get this thing built up. We are quickly running out of outdoor weather here in Chicago. Most likely I will pump and dump my TanTan X68 for the groupset and components. This 368 is more intriguing anyway. My affection toward budget Chinese frames is like when I used to date back in my 20s. That pretty girl with daddy issues is probably a waste of my time and effort. But...you never know until ya ride it. 8)
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Tell us about the quality of the carbon fiber and the rigidity of the frame.
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is that a VB stem? can you comment on the build quality? what about the weight?
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The white frame decals probably aren't desired for most folks in here. But I understand it from VeloBuild's marketing perspective for sending me a frameset for review. Perhaps a different font in the future. I think the decals will look totally fine with some matching white decal wheels. A billboard on wheels I am.
Size 52/Medium - Basically the equivalent stack/reach of a size 56 in most Western brands, if you factor in 20mm of spacers for the recessed headtube. I've been running my bikes slammed for the time being anyway.
VeloBuild provided TWO 3D printed headset covers: One is for VB's in house stem, and the other for using an FSA/ACR standard cockpit. A really nice touch. VeloBuild also created a 3D printed Shimano Di2 battery holder since the battery itself wont fit inside the actual seatpost. Go figure. I've seen these sorts of detail and hardware only on Western bikes.
I'm pretty excited to get this thing built up. We are quickly running out of outdoor weather here in Chicago. Most likely I will pump and dump my TanTan X68 for the groupset and components. This 368 is more intriguing anyway. My affection toward budget Chinese frames is like when I used to date back in my 20s. That pretty girl with daddy issues is probably a waste of my time and effort. But...you never know until ya ride it. 8)
The colour is black with flakes?
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is that a VB stem? can you comment on the build quality? what about the weight?
If thats the same stem they sent when I got my VB then it wasnt great.
I couldnt ever get the stem bolts to tighten down and it led to many a mid right adjustment.
Eventually VB replaced with the integrated cockpit and I never had an issue since.
I always thought the issue came from the fact that both of the stem screws entered from one side rather than being opposites.
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Tell us about the quality of the carbon fiber and the rigidity of the frame.
#
Mate the frame is nearly 1500g! They have not spared any material on it so I would assume they will be no issues with flex ;D If this is not a bone rattler I will be shocked!
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The provided stem from VeloBuild has been problematic. It's the same exact stem from 3+ years ago which came with my VB-177 frameset. And led me to making a full video on its inherent headset play issue.
The pinch bolts aren't really the issue. You would need to run at least a 10mm spacer on this frame for bolt clearance anyway. Otherwise the lower pinch bolt is blocked by the 3D printed headset cover. It's the overall design of the stem and top cap. You basically need to cut your steer tube perfectly otherwise there will be headset play. And you can't run standard spacers above the stem. Lose lose.
I wasn't planning on using VB's stem anyway, which is why I purposely pushed for them to offer at least some compatibility with FSA/ACR. Peter's integrated cockpit from XMCS slots in perfectly into the 3D printed ACR headset cover. 8)
Now to the topic of weight. Yeah it's heavy by comparison. I mean just look at it. A TT/track bike for the road. It's still lighter than my Specialized Allez Sprint albeit a different material. But more carbon doesn't automatically mean stiffer/harsh. In fact in my experience more carbon sometimes leads to the capability of soaking up road vibration better. Especially thick seat tubes. Less flex yes, but more vibration soak. Maybe it's all in my head.
I'm hoping this frame is ultra stiff in the BB and headtube area. Only time will tell whether or not the back end is sloppy. When it comes super aero frames in this price range, past trends usually predict future trends.
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To be fair to this big 'ol girl, a Dare VA AFO frame weighs in at 1073g and I think a Ridley Noah fast 3.0 is a bit more than that so this isn't outrageously heavy given all the deep sections.
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To be fair to this big 'ol girl, a Dare VA AFO frame weighs in at 1073g and I think a Ridley Noah fast 3.0 is a bit more than that so this isn't outrageously heavy given all the deep sections.
Yes. This frame is ridiculous heavy. Even my chunky Tideace aero frame "only" weighs 1300 g in a size L.
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Yeah idk, I was okay with the quoted weights, I could've swallowed a bit above that, but this is a bit too much when combined with the rest of my apprehensions.
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i would be fine with anything below the 9kg mark for a complete bike, i'm not built to go fast uphill and my current TCR is 8.4Kgs anyway. Might as well chase the aero gains if any
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Granted...the 368 seatpost and fork combined is around ~250g heavier than all of these framesets.
Size 56
Tavelo Arow - 1014g
Tavelo Attack - 1041g
Giant Propel - 1071g
VeloBuild 268 - 1080g
Yishun R086D - 1114g
Winspace T1500 - 1218g
Allez Sprint - 1521g
My Tavelo Arow as a complete bike (2x drivetrain, pedals, PM, computer mount) comes in at exactly 7kg all in. That includes 55mm deep wheels as well. I'm not defending the weight on the 368. It really is heavy. But a sub-8kg complete bike is totally reasonable. And I will be going Sram 1x. I reckon I'll be around 7.9kg all in with 60-65mm deep wheels.
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Granted...the 368 seatpost and fork combined is around ~250g heavier than all of these framesets.
Size 56
Tavelo Arow - 1014g
Tavelo Attack - 1041g
Giant Propel - 1071g
VeloBuild 268 - 1080g
Yishun R086D - 1114g
Winspace T1500 - 1218g
Allez Sprint - 1521g
My Tavelo Arow as a complete bike (2x drivetrain, pedals, PM, computer mount) comes in at exactly 7kg all in. That includes 55mm deep wheels as well. I'm not defending the weight on the 368. It really is heavy. But a sub-8kg complete bike is totally reasonable. And I will be going Sram 1x. I reckon I'll be around 7.9kg all in with 60-65mm deep wheels.
Are you experiencing any back and forth wobble on your fork?
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Build Update #1
You are gonna need a lot of spacers...
I'm using FSA/ACR with already 20mm of spacers. 10mm of those spacers is just to get the stack to the advertised geometry spec for my size (548mm). Even just to get the equivalent stack of a slammed stem on a traditional frame (565mm on the SL8) I still need 15mm of spacers. I'm okay with a slammed stem, but it's probably not optimal for most folks with shorter arms.
Basically 35mm of spacers total is required to equal that of a traditionally slammed stem. I can't imagine the potential loss of stiffness with that amount of plastic spacers.
The stem angle on that XMCS cockpit is -10°. You could buy a separate ACR stem with only a -6° angle which should mitigate a spacer or two.
EDIT: I could have gone up one frame size to add 20mm of stack and then size down from a 120mm to 110mm stem. But man, a 1014mm wheelbase would handle like a boat around corners. Basically gravel bike territory.
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I thought you'd have finished the build by now ;D
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New Patty video out! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNCME80tVw4
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Not sure spacing has been so weird on my posts and the YT link is getting stripped?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNCME80tVw4
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happens in other threads as well
hopefully we'll get patty's opinions on it soon, he already has the parts from the TT-X68 so it's just a matter of getting it built.
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Chris sent this picture of the painted size 46. It was actually supposed to be matte, so will just need to check with GF whether glossy is OK or it should be repainted in matte (Chris already asked if they should repaint).
FWIW he says weight is same for glossy and matte. Would have thought matte was a bit lighter (the heaviest one yet in this thread was matte, though - but also a big size).
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8)
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That looks freaking awesome 8)
Now C'mon, how about a few words to the faithful... First ride impressions?
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8)
Looks amazing! hopefully it rides well, don't let us hanging too long patty!
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So fast its almost rolling of the stand at a standstill! 8)
8)
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That build looks soooo good. Or in your words Patty, CLEEEEEAAAANNN
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8)
Hi, could you tell me what internal and external widths those XMCS wheels are and how much space you still have left in that frame with the 28mm tires?
I am looking for a similar setup but would size up my tires to 30 or even 32mm.
Thanks!
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First ride from Patrick Lino https://youtu.be/gCL6sGlhJas?si=Ju0Lzg0PxiEXqw_0
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Patrick how bad is the chainstay issue? which cogs are affected? can you test it with other derailleurs to see if it's a SRAM only issue?
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@patliean1 in his video talks about the seatpost slipping despite very high tightening torque. I'll try to explain what could be the cause and how to fix it. The seatpost clamp is designed such that the part that presses against the seatpost has a limited forward extension. The opposite part of the clamp rests against the frame. If the seatpost seat is too large, the clamp won't be able to securely hold the seatpost when the bolt is fully tightened. This will be indicated by a high tightening torque and a large gap between the seatpost clamp and the seatpost or frame, depending on the clamp design. The VB-TT-023 frame uses the same seatpost and clamp, and everything works perfectly with a tightening torque of just 4.8 Nm for a rider weight of 73 kg. My TWITTER bike initially had large gaps, and they've gotten even larger over the past three years, causing the seatpost to slip. I added a soft metal spacer between the clamp and the frame (three layers of 1.4 mm each), and it's helping so far. I think this is a universal solution for any frame. However, VB should adjust their manufacturing process and better control the seatpost mounting space, IMHO.
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Chris sent this picture of the painted size 46. It was actually supposed to be matte, so will just need to check with GF whether glossy is OK or it should be repainted in matte (Chris already asked if they should repaint).
FWIW he says weight is same for glossy and matte. Would have thought matte was a bit lighter (the heaviest one yet in this thread was matte, though - but also a big size).
Keep the glossy! No doubt
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@Alexlp - Thank you sir! This is super helpful and will test it out later on today's ride.
@pertual - It's only when in the final 10t cog which is exclusive to Sram. All the other cogs are totally fine. Like I said in the video you can clear chain stay simply by backing out of B-limit screw a couple of turns. Shifting is totally fine even under load. It's just not optimal to manufacturer spec.
Why hasn't anyone else in here reported this chain stay issue? I know there's at least 1-2 folks in here with complete builds. My strong suspicion is Shimano/non-Sram derailleurs don't have this issue. Their hardware isn't as beefy as Sram and the max cog is only 11t
Finally, I swapped in a set of Yoeleo C60/88 pro wheels with larger 30c tires. This is way...
EDIT: As I was typing this, someone commented on my video regarding the length of my chain:
"Regarding the chainstay, have you tried eliminating one block of chain? It will lower the RD position. (I am not sure if your chain has become too short for the lowest cassette)."
I am using the same chain and length that was originally sized for a 50t chainring. Not 52t. Would that make a difference?
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@patliean1 thanks for the video, very informative. Interesting to see your observations about with the saddle offset - this should work in my favour since I wanted mine further forward anyway. Hoping I don't get the same issues with facing on the brake mounts, may have to spend some time cleaning them up.
Mine should be ready in a few days... just in time for Winter :-\
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EDIT: As I was typing this, someone commented on my video regarding the length of my chain:
"Regarding the chainstay, have you tried eliminating one block of chain? It will lower the RD position. (I am not sure if your chain has become too short for the lowest cassette)."
I am using the same chain and length that was originally sized for a 50t chainring. Not 52t. Would that make a difference?
On a Shimano Ultegra derailleur, chain length only changes the cage angle, but it doesn't affect the position of the derailleur itself. The vertical position of the derailleur is adjusted with the Tension screw. Turning it lowers the derailleur, increasing the gap between the cassette sprockets and the cage pulley. SRAM should probably have a similar adjustment. A radical solution might be to use an extension cable, which is even used in the pro peloton, IMHO.
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@patilean1 Thanks for the reply! as someone who would like to run this with both 1x and 2x depending on the event (crits or granfondos) on a wheeltop groupset it reassures me. I guess this and the weight was the final wall between me and ordering it.
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Has anyone built a bike with an S(490) frame yet? Please share photos of the bike on the road and measurements!
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On a Shimano Ultegra derailleur, chain length only changes the cage angle, but it doesn't affect the position of the derailleur itself. The vertical position of the derailleur is adjusted with the Tension screw. Turning it lowers the derailleur, increasing the gap between the cassette sprockets and the cage pulley. SRAM should probably have a similar adjustment. A radical solution might be to use an extension cable, which is even used in the pro peloton, IMHO.
Correct on the chain length and B tension screw. However, the circled part of the picture is a direct mount hanger which only works on Shimano SHADOW style RD and will absolutely not work with SRAM. The purpose of the direct mount hanger is to eliminate the B-link therefore making the whole system stiffer. The issue that Patrick is having is due to the design of the SRAM RD. It sits much more curled upwards compared to Ultegra RD. I do not think that he would have that issue with Shimano.
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@patilean1 Please check how VB-R-368 fits on CYCPLUS T2?
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@Alexlp - Thank you sir! This is super helpful and will test it out later on today's ride.
@pertual - It's only when in the final 10t cog which is exclusive to Sram. All the other cogs are totally fine. Like I said in the video you can clear chain stay simply by backing out of B-limit screw a couple of turns. Shifting is totally fine even under load. It's just not optimal to manufacturer spec.
Why hasn't anyone else in here reported this chain stay issue? I know there's at least 1-2 folks in here with complete builds. My strong suspicion is Shimano/non-Sram derailleurs don't have this issue. Their hardware isn't as beefy as Sram and the max cog is only 11t
Finally, I swapped in a set of Yoeleo C60/88 pro wheels with larger 30c tires. This is way...
EDIT: As I was typing this, someone commented on my video regarding the length of my chain:
"Regarding the chainstay, have you tried eliminating one block of chain? It will lower the RD position. (I am not sure if your chain has become too short for the lowest cassette)."
I am using the same chain and length that was originally sized for a 50t chainring. Not 52t. Would that make a difference?
@patliean1 did you install the headset bearing with the angled surface (as shown in the picutre) facing inside the headset, or facing outside of the headset? you don't seem to have a wobbling fork (due to lack of mentioning it in your videos). whenever i press the front brake, handlebar and fork move slightly forward.
I'd like to think that I installed the headset bearings the wrong way
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@patliean1 did you install the headset bearing with the angled surface (as shown in the picutre) facing inside the headset, or facing outside of the headset? you don't seem to have a wobbling fork (due to lack of mentioning it in your videos). whenever i press the front brake, handlebar and fork move slightly forward.
I'd like to think that I installed the headset bearings the wrong way
Headset bearings are always installed with the outer 45° chamfer edge facing into the frame of each cup.
VeloBuild supplied a thin metal C-shaped headset shim. It allowed me to get proper headset compression without rubbing the frame.
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Headset bearings are always installed with the outer 45° chamfer edge facing into the frame of each cup.
VeloBuild supplied a thin metal C-shaped headset shim. It allowed me to get proper headset compression without rubbing the frame.
cheers, appreciate the quick reply. Hope this fixes the issue
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@patliean1 thanks for the video, very informative. Interesting to see your observations about with the saddle offset - this should work in my favour since I wanted mine further forward anyway. Hoping I don't get the same issues with facing on the brake mounts, may have to spend some time cleaning them up.
Mine should be ready in a few days... just in time for Winter :-\
I couldnt quite make sense of the bit of the video about seat offset and top tube. In my mind the only thing affecting seat offset is seat tube angle. Nothing with the front of the should matter.
If he is shifting the seat back because hes not getting enough reach with the seat forward, does he mean the geometry chart misrepresents the reach???
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Mario kart: Yeah, that chunky seat tube should not have any impact on your saddle setback. Seat tube angle is measured in middle of seatpost kind of no mather how thick seatpost is, but I think Patrick mentioned in video that Velobuild have 72° seat tube angle and Scot has 73°, but Velobuild according to their website geochart has 74° witch is pretty noticeable diference, maybe that geochart that Partick was looking at is not correct.
That bike looks pretty good, but men that frame hitting rear derailleur is pretty big oversight.
PS: difference between 74° and 73° at 750mm saddle height is 12.5mm and if he has higher saddle height difference will be even bigger, so Patrick needs to have saddle 13mm further back on Velobuild compare to Scott witch I think checks out.
PPS: attached geochart from official Velobuild website.
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The effective top tube length is the imaginary horizontal line from the center point of the seat post to the center point of the head tube.
Scott Foil RC L/56: Reach is 394.5 Effective Top Tube is 565 Seat Angle 73.7°
Aero Trace M/52: Reach is 396 Effective Top Tube is 553 Seat Angle 74°
I might have biffed the wording in the video. But essentially the geometry is misleading. The top tube on the Aero Trace is 12mm shorter despite the reach being 1.5mm longer. Yes and a steeper seat angle. And despite the whopping 10 centimeter range of fore/aft adjustment I still had to slam the saddle almost all the way backwards. My Scott Foil uses a 0mm offset post. And I don't have to push the saddle all the way back.
My suspicion is despite the top tube being measured from the center of the seat post, the 7cm width is effecting the overall tube length.
The main takeaway here is that I set up all my bikes the same no matter the front end. 78cm BB to saddle height. 9cm saddle setback. The reach of the front end is equal to all my other bikes. Not my first rodeo. Sram E1 levers at a bit of extra reach in my personal usage.
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I guess the takeaway here is - as you also allude to in the video - that this is basically a TT version of a road bike. It's not really meant to be used with 9cm of setback - that's more climbing or endurance position. I get you did it to get in same position as your Foil, but the geometry is meant for a forward-rotated position akin to Dare, Ridley or the new Factor. If I were setting you up I'd have probably put you on the size 55 (unless standover height would become an issue) with a setback of more like 6cm and a 140mm stem with maybe 10-20mm fork steerer spacers. Worse for climbing or noodling around at 25 km/h, but better for all-out speed on the flat - exactly like the rest of the frame's design.
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I guess the takeaway here is - as you also allude to in the video - that this is basically a TT version of a road bike. It's not really meant to be used with 9cm of setback - that's more climbing or endurance position. I get you did it to get in same position as your Foil, but the geometry is meant for a forward-rotated position akin to Dare, Ridley or the new Factor. If I were setting you up I'd have probably put you on the size 55 (unless standover height would become an issue) with a setback of more like 6cm and a 140mm stem with maybe 10-20mm fork steerer spacers. Worse for climbing or noodling around at 25 km/h, but better for all-out speed on the flat - exactly like the rest of the frame's design.
This bike is not designed around the position that the Dare, Ridley, and Factor allow. This bike is best described as lower for the same reach as most bikes at the larger sizes, while very contemporary to a typical race bike at the smaller sizes. This is not an opinion and is based on the geometry charts.
While this bike offers a lot of fore-and-aft adjustment for the saddle, it's not long or low enough to compare with the Dare, Ridley, or new Factor. The Dare is a half measure IMO because of the STA, but the Ridley and the Factor embrace the new school, forward positioning, and are 15-25mm longer reach than the 368 while being 10mm lower in comparable sizes. Crucially, those bikes also have similarly longer wheel bases.
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Headset bearings are always installed with the outer 45° chamfer edge facing into the frame of each cup.
VeloBuild supplied a thin metal C-shaped headset shim. It allowed me to get proper headset compression without rubbing the frame.
Are you planning to ride this frame in the future and record more videos?
The frame looks damn interesting, but the quality scares me. I choose heavy aero frames for myself at a price of 1000-1500 $ and I am confused by the price of this frame, whether it can be really high-quality.
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@patliean1 do you have any comments on the VB provided stem? i've seen you opted for an integrated bar in the end...does it still slip? For my build i would like to maintain a separate bar and stem and the in-house solution would be the simplest
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This bike is not designed around the position that the Dare, Ridley, and Factor allow. This bike is best described as lower for the same reach as most bikes at the larger sizes, while very contemporary to a typical race bike at the smaller sizes. This is not an opinion and is based on the geometry charts.
While this bike offers a lot of fore-and-aft adjustment for the saddle, it's not long or low enough to compare with the Dare, Ridley, or new Factor. The Dare is a half measure IMO because of the STA, but the Ridley and the Factor embrace the new school, forward positioning, and are 15-25mm longer reach than the 368 while being 10mm lower in comparable sizes. Crucially, those bikes also have similarly longer wheel bases.
For smaller sizes the VB368 is pretty classical geometry, but for larger sizes while not as aggressive as Dare and Ridley, it's definitely more aggressive than something more standard/old school like the Foil - geometry comparison attached. For similar stack figure, the VB is more or less right in between Foil and Dare/Ridley regarding reach - the Ridley is 21mm longer and Dare 12mm longer (but *not* also 10mm lower stack). For wheel base and seat tube angle (even not taking the sliding saddle clamp into account) it's actually closer to Ridley than to the Foil.
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For smaller sizes the VB368 is pretty classical geometry, but for larger sizes while not as aggressive as Dare and Ridley, it's definitely more aggressive than something more standard/old school like the Foil - geometry comparison attached. For similar stack figure, the VB is more or less right in between Foil and Dare/Ridley regarding reach - the Ridley is 21mm longer and Dare 12mm longer (but *not* also 10mm lower stack). For wheel base and seat tube angle (even not taking the sliding saddle clamp into account) it's actually closer to Ridley than to the Foil.
My comment specific to the large sizes was comparing this bike to most race type bikes, not the Ridley or Factor. I think the general description of the geometry of those bikes being lower than the 368 is also fair because it holds true "generally" for most of the geometry chart, but I guess you can take that point if keeping score is your intention. ::)
This bike is not designed around the position that the Dare, Ridley, and Factor allow. This bike is best described as lower for the same reach as most bikes at the larger sizes, while very contemporary to a typical race bike at the smaller sizes. This is not an opinion and is based on the geometry charts.
The key thing in that comparison is whether you consider the 550 of this bike as best described as less stack than something like the 58 sl8 or longer reach than the 56 sl8. Given the context of the other sizes (the 490 of this bike lining up with the 52 sl8) I feel like the description as shorter than the 58 is more apt. You can expand this to include the other typical race bikes people describe.
If you like the 368, that's cool; but it's not at all accurate to lump it with the likes of the Ridley which very much force riders into an untraditional racing position that offers significant advantages but also negative handling trade-offs unless the bike is designed for it. The much longer reach of the Ridley is part of that design focus. This doesn't mean you can't use this bike to replicate that position in the larger sizes, but the overall geo isnt going to be balanced in the same way.
Edited because the new factor geo isnt out yet.
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Anyone having issues with their post slipping? I'm a smaller rider so I had to cut my seatpost a large amount. I had to cut off the bit of the seatpost that had the anti slip coating on it.
I haven't even ridden the bike yet and the post still slips just sitting on it... When I torque down the bolt as far as I can, the bolt bottoms out/slides against the clamping bit, and even then the post still has some side-to-side wobble like it's undersized.
I put a bit of electrical tape around the post and now I can at least sit on the bike without it slipping. I assume the post is a little bit undersized after I cut the bit off with the anti slip coating? Anyone know what the factories apply to the post that I can do at home?
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Anyone having issues with their post slipping? I'm a smaller rider so I had to cut my seatpost a large amount. I had to cut off the bit of the seatpost that had the anti slip coating on it.
I haven't even ridden the bike yet and the post still slips just sitting on it... When I torque down the bolt as far as I can, the bolt bottoms out/slides against the clamping bit, and even then the post still has some side-to-side wobble like it's undersized.
I put a bit of electrical tape around the post and now I can at least sit on the bike without it slipping. I assume the post is a little bit undersized after I cut the bit off with the anti slip coating? Anyone know what the factories apply to the post that I can do at home?
Did you use carbon gripping paste?
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Anyone having issues with their post slipping? I'm a smaller rider so I had to cut my seatpost a large amount. I had to cut off the bit of the seatpost that had the anti slip coating on it.
I haven't even ridden the bike yet and the post still slips just sitting on it... When I torque down the bolt as far as I can, the bolt bottoms out/slides against the clamping bit, and even then the post still has some side-to-side wobble like it's undersized.
I put a bit of electrical tape around the post and now I can at least sit on the bike without it slipping. I assume the post is a little bit undersized after I cut the bit off with the anti slip coating? Anyone know what the factories apply to the post that I can do at home?
Try that https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6206.msg96232.html#msg96232
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For people that want to use a normal bar+stem with the frame, i asked chris and he sent me this photo of the corresponding top cover.
I also asked him if he had pictures of the green clearcoat frame on the custom color section of the website but they already shipped it...anybody here ordered that frame?
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Yes I ordered the green clear coat frame. Here it is, size 49.
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Yes I ordered the green clear coat frame. Here it is, size 49.
Look really good! will you post a picture in the sun when it's ready? ;D
enjoy!
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Yes I ordered the green clear coat frame. Here it is, size 49.
Colored clear coat is a nice move
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A couple of size 58's in the post :o
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A little update on my seatpost situation. I took rather extreme measures and epoxied some silicon carbide particles to the seatpost. I ended up applying 3 thin layers of epoxy to take up some slack in the seat tube before applying the particles. I'm confident this + some carbon paste will prevent any slippage 😂.
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A little update on my seatpost situation. I took rather extreme measures and epoxied some silicon carbide particles to the seatpost. I ended up applying 3 thin layers of epoxy to take up some slack in the seat tube before applying the particles. I'm confident this + some carbon paste will prevent any slippage 😂.
didn't know it was this bad, keep us posted
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Pair of 58's arrived this morning
Only took 4 days. Amazing 8)
Updates as we get them!
1532g frame
511g uncut forks
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Europe?
I ordered size 46 last week. How long does it take from the time you make the payment?
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UK
We had them ordered and paid for for about six weeks or so but think they've only just started making the larger sizes
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That's very fast. Wonder if they use different shipping method to the UK. Mine was apparently shipped November 5th, but no updates on the tracking yet on any of my usual tracking sites, so it's probably still on it's way to a European hub. I'm in Denmark.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/XvRMbwDc/IMG-20251117-134511627.jpg)
Size 58
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fs7xj2H8/IMG-20251117-151033203.jpg)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/XvRMbwDc/IMG-20251117-134511627.jpg)
Size 58
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fs7xj2H8/IMG-20251117-151033203.jpg)
very nice color but man those wheels look just wrong
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Lolz, they are only for building it up - waiting for some deep boys to arrive ;)
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Just checked in the status of my frame, and according to Chris @Velobuild they changed something to the frame after the clearance problems that Patrick noted with the SRAM derailleur. So that is interesting! Wonder if its the hanger or something else they updated!
So my frame will be painted this week hopefully!
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Interesting!
Not planning on SRAM so can't comment, but the di2 battery placement on ours is now on a cool little aluminium cradle in the down tube and looks like an access port under the BB although I haven't opened it up yet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0VTmcmM/IMG-20251117-140445111-HDR.jpg)
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@Pistonbroke Do you have the default handlebars from Velobuild? What size are they – width and reach? What's the stem angle?
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Yes, but won't be using them as prefer narrower, longer and probably higher :o.
I think I got 380mm wide x 100 or 125 long
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I'm going to use it with the Lexon Vero handlebar, and Chris told me to send the spacer in 3D so they can print it and send it with the frame. Has anyone done this before? The handlebar should arrive first, so I just need to design the spacer to send to them? It's not like a standard one where you just install the handlebar? @patliean1 do you make the drawing to them?
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I'm not sure about the stack measurement.
Looking at the geometry chart, it seems the stack is measured at the height of the top bearing.
So (with the cover) the actual stack should be greater than what, 1cm?
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Size 58
Who would have thought brown could look so good? ;D It's lovely, honestly.
Mine and at least one other I've seen on here have quite an obvious line between what I assume are two different orientations in the carbon layup, to the rear of the headtube. Is it the lighting, the colour, or maybe some changes to the manufacturing process? I don't mind it, but it's the kind of thing once you see you can't unsee.
BTW I also have the 'skipped leg day' look with my current wheels but unlike you I will have to stick with them until I can afford some deep sections next year...
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Interesting!
Not planning on SRAM so can't comment, but the di2 battery placement on ours is now on a cool little aluminium cradle in the down tube and looks like an access port under the BB although I haven't opened it up yet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0VTmcmM/IMG-20251117-140445111-HDR.jpg)
Interesting, Chris mentioned that they updated that as well, so that frame might also have the update to handle the SRAM-issue? If they dont have updated it twice already :)
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I'm not sure about the stack measurement.
Looking at the geometry chart, it seems the stack is measured at the height of the top bearing.
So (with the cover) the actual stack should be greater than what, 1cm?
Yup, measured to top bearing on these
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Yup, measured to top bearing on these
How thick is the cover?
I have a TanTan x38 in size 49 with a stack of 516mm, this one is already at 530mm :o
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About 15mm tapering down 7ish but the stem can sit in it by 5 mm at the front/10 ish at the back
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Got a message from Chris saying that the frames chainstays have been corrected for SRAM...
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5w9r6RD/Screenshot-20251120-071826.png)
Anyone got any photos of their chainstays to pop up in comparison?
Battery cradle and down tube mount point
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2ncwzdP/IMG_20251119_124619184.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/v85vBJYD/IMG_20251119_124625818_HDR.jpg)
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My size 460 frame arrived today, it was shipped on November 5th. The plastic stiffener piece inserted at rear axle had broken, but it doesn't appear the frame is damaged. No extra cut in the chain stay for extra clearance for SRAM rear derailleurs and the same Di2 battery mount attached to bottom of seat post as seen in Patrick's video.
A few weights:
Frame including the 4 bottle cage bolts and installed FD mount, but w/o UDH RD hanger: 1.415 kg
Uncut fork: 503 g
Uncut seat post: 388 g
Thru axles front/rear: 35/41 g
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My size 460 frame arrived today, it was shipped on November 5th. The plastic stiffener piece inserted at rear axle had broken, but it doesn't appear the frame is damaged. No extra cut in the chain stay for extra clearance for SRAM rear derailleurs and the same Di2 battery mount attached to bottom of seat post as seen in Patrick's video.
A few weights:
Frame including the 4 bottle cage bolts and installed FD mount, but w/o UDH RD hanger: 1.415 kg
Uncut fork: 503 g
Uncut seat post: 388 g
Thru axles front/rear: 35/41 g
the results are in, it's a chonker :(
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I think y'all are too focused on the weight of these things.... If you want Aethos weight buy another frame, shrug.
MTM - love the colour! Look forward to seeing the build.
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I think y'all are too focused on the weight of these things.... If you want Aethos weight buy another frame, shrug.
MTM - love the colour! Look forward to seeing the build.
The frame is beautiful, but I still don't understand where that weight comes from, even in small sizes. My x38, which is also a fairly massive aero frame, in size 49 (painted and with hardware) weighs 1150g.
Also the seatpost, which is very similar to this one, weighs about 250g. This one weighs 130g more... that's weird. ;D
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(https://i.postimg.cc/XvRMbwDc/IMG-20251117-134511627.jpg)
Size 58
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fs7xj2H8/IMG-20251117-151033203.jpg)
Cant wait to see this built up. The flip colour looks really good on the big profile frame. It looks like its got a bigger area to "flip" and these frames look better in bigger sizes.
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The frame is beautiful, but I still don't understand where that weight comes from, even in small sizes. My x38, which is also a fairly massive aero frame, in size 49 (painted and with hardware) weighs 1150g.
Also the seatpost, which is very similar to this one, weighs about 250g. This one weighs 130g more... that's weird. ;D
Yeah i don't really care about the actual weight (it's not gonna make a difference for me, i'm not looking for a 6.5kg bike), it's more a comparison with other chinese frames. It's probably a good thing for durability, since they decided to put so much carbon on it.
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Yeah i don't really care about the actual weight (it's not gonna make a difference for me, i'm not looking for a 6.5kg bike), it's more a comparison with other chinese frames. It's probably a good thing for durability, since they decided to put so much carbon on it.
No, of course it's not that important.. but it's strange, I thought that in smaller sizes it would be closer to the declared weight.. instead it remains quite high.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb14ZG8c/IMG-20251121-143127176.jpg)
She's going to be a long old girl :o
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb14ZG8c/IMG-20251121-143127176.jpg)
She's going to be a long old girl :o
Nice! Honestly, this is probably how I'd set this one up, saddle forwards to the max and long, upwards angled stem + aerobars.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb14ZG8c/IMG-20251121-143127176.jpg)
She's going to be a long old girl :o
the famous arne peters fit ;D
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Very controversial stem angle!
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I'm an old inflexible git unfazed by fashion ;D
I'd have this stem and bars if I could get them to fit.... Or afford it :o
(https://racing.tootengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/X23_SWANI_WEB_IG-1300x1300.jpg)
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Riser cockpits are a great idea and solution to many problems, so I really hope they become more developed and commonplace. I think, for certain riders, there is a lot of aero to be gained in a properly designed riser aero stem.
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I would like to share my thoughts on the frame I received assembled from my local bike shop last week.
My local bike shop reported some problems that arose during the construction of the bike:
1- The frame didn't come with the C clip mentioned in some videos/comments in this forum. This was solved with a spacer made by the shop
2- The chainstay issue is indeed annoying, but as far as I know it was corrected in newer frames.
3- They also said there was a problem with the crankset that they were able to correct with a spacer. I don't have any further details beyond that.
4- The most worrying part is that the seatpost slips when tightened to 5nm with carbon paste. I even tried 9nm as Patrick Lino mentioned in the video and even then the seatpost would lower in any pothole or bump. Even when tightened to 9nm, I could easily move the seatpost from side to side with my hands. For context, I weigh 65kg.
This is just my experience, but if you are interested in this frame, I would wait for all these defects to be corrected before ordering.
The frame is aero and stiff without being uncomfortable. For the price, it is certainly something I would recommend, but not right now.
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Following Lofetin here's our early build/ride thoughts.
Bike builds have gone together with no drama with everything fitting as it should.
Mine is a Sram force crank and needed no washers.
Brothers is Shimano/magene and likewise went on with no issue.
Running gear is Shimano so can't comment on the sram 10t, but no issues here. Gears so worked without issue first time.
Haven't aligned brothers brakes but mine set up fine with no rubbing.
Seatpost... Just a 20k shakedown ride this morning in some crappy weather but no problems with slipping. Maybe because I set up seatpost clamp differently to Lofetins mechanic, but who knows. Certainly not trying to put those guys down.
I greased the sliding faces of the clamp and bolt so they have minimum effect on torque value when nipping it up, and put a strip of self adhesive skateboard grip tape on the curved part of the clamp that interfaces with the seat post. I weigh approx 72kg and did the majority of the distance, but brother weighs 110kg.
Apart from all that we felt the bike was smooth and well damped from road noise.
Pulls up straight on the brakes and descends and corners confidently.
It's very nice to ride 8)
We also think it will be pretty fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMSSzdwj/IMG-20251124-120615751.jpg)
Do holla if you have specific questions :)
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Following Lofetin here's our early build/ride thoughts.
Bike builds have gone together with no drama with everything fitting as it should.
Mine is a Sram force crank and needed no washers.
Brothers is Shimano/magene and likewise went on with no issue.
Running gear is Shimano so can't comment on the sram 10t, but no issues here. Gears so worked without issue first time.
Haven't aligned brothers brakes but mine set up fine with no rubbing.
Seatpost... Just a 20k shakedown ride this morning in some crappy weather but no problems with slipping. Maybe because I set up seatpost clamp differently to Lofetins mechanic, but who knows. Certainly not trying to put those guys down.
I greased the sliding faces of the clamp and bolt so they have minimum effect on torque value when nipping it up, and put a strip of self adhesive skateboard grip tape on the curved part of the clamp that interfaces with the seat post. I weigh approx 72kg and did the majority of the distance, but brother weighs 110kg.
Apart from all that we felt the bike was smooth and well damped from road noise.
Pulls up straight on the brakes and descends and corners confidently.
It's very nice to ride 8)
We also think it will be pretty fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMSSzdwj/IMG-20251124-120615751.jpg)
Do holla if you have specific questions :)
Nice! do you feel like the rear triangle is floppy when standing on the pedals? would you describe the ride as muted (absorbs bumps) or harsh (rattles you)? keep us posted :)
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Muted for sure with those wheels but will try the wheels off other bike at some point to get a direct comparison.
30/30mm gp5k at back with Michelin pro5 front @ 60psi
It was certainly more compliant than his aluminium winter bike.
Didn't really push it hard today so will only say that it didn't feel floppy initially. First ride out and weather was cold and wet. Blurghh!
Will get brother to give it some beans next time we're out as that bugger can do 1400+watts seated :o If the frame is a noodle he'll probably feel it ;D
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Following Lofetin here's our early build/ride thoughts.
Bike builds have gone together with no drama with everything fitting as it should.
Mine is a Sram force crank and needed no washers.
Brothers is Shimano/magene and likewise went on with no issue.
Running gear is Shimano so can't comment on the sram 10t, but no issues here. Gears so worked without issue first time.
Haven't aligned brothers brakes but mine set up fine with no rubbing.
Seatpost... Just a 20k shakedown ride this morning in some crappy weather but no problems with slipping. Maybe because I set up seatpost clamp differently to Lofetins mechanic, but who knows. Certainly not trying to put those guys down.
I greased the sliding faces of the clamp and bolt so they have minimum effect on torque value when nipping it up, and put a strip of self adhesive skateboard grip tape on the curved part of the clamp that interfaces with the seat post. I weigh approx 72kg and did the majority of the distance, but brother weighs 110kg.
Apart from all that we felt the bike was smooth and well damped from road noise.
Pulls up straight on the brakes and descends and corners confidently.
It's very nice to ride 8)
We also think it will be pretty fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMSSzdwj/IMG-20251124-120615751.jpg)
Do holla if you have specific questions :)
Do you think it is possible to fit 32mm with wide rims so a more less measured 33mm? And how wide is the downtube like will it cover trek aero bottles?
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The tyres on my XMCS rims measure up near 35 and they fit, but wouldn't want to go any larger. Can't remember if the tyre is a 30 or 32 but will check tomorrow.
The down tube isn't flat on the bottle side, get a measurement and profile for you but the wide aero bottle cage I got from Ali was too wide.
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Here is my update on the AeroTrace. Conceptually it's good. Functionally it needs a little work going into 2026. I respect VeloBuild's efforts into trying something new versus releasing another SL7/SL8 one-bike-to-clone them all. And VB being mindful of their customers with things like a custom Di2 battery mount, custom 3D spacers for various stem and routing systems is something I wish more brands in this price range offered. On paper you really can't ask for more from VeloBuild. Kudos to them.
It's not for everyone. And that's okay...
The reality is the 368 is a TT frame disguised in road bike geometry clothing. You get the theoretical aero benefits of using a TT bike on the road (for sustain steady efforts), and you also take with you the negatives of using a TT bike for the road (weight and agility). Geometry will be the biggest hurdle for most I reckon.
Jumping back onto my lighter bikes like the Tavelo Arow, it's pretty much night and day in term of dynamics. The Arow is so nimble and dances so well out of the saddle. The AeroTrace on the other does not like to surge. Or climb. Or blast out of an apex. Because...it's a TT bike. To re-emphasis again, it's a TT bike not an aero bike.
But is it fun ride? HECK YES. Arguably the most exciting frame I've ridden in this price range. But it's A LOT to deal with if you're planning to daily this bike. The frame has so much carbon you are reminded of it constantly. Dynamically the ride takes me back to the early-2000s import tuner scene. I've used this analogy before. Ever been in the interior of a 20 year old Japanese car on the highway? Then you know the exact feel (and sounds) I'm referring to. The AeroTrace is fun because of how imperfect and unnecessary it. If the Tarmac SL8 is like a modern day sports car with modern creature comforts, the AeroTrace is like a 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims. Porky and kind of fast?
You can thank the almost 1500g of carbon for soaking up road imperfections. Because the AeroTrace is also surprisingly more comfortable than you would think. And the rear end doesn't get upset over rough pavement. Like a tank.
What I would like to see from VeloBuild in a perfect world:
-A more subdued and eloquent aero frame design that isn't overtly a TT frame. Scott Foil or Cannondale System Six vibes. This would cut down on weight, offer more crosswind stability, and make the frame more usable for a wider range of riders. This isn't the bike you take to Mallorca or the Dolomites. And, lets be honest, the bike looks proportionally wrong with any set of wheels shallower than 60mm deep.
-Happy VB fixed the Sram derailleur chainstay issue. I'd like to see more thought into preventing the seatpost from slipping. Even if VB just provided a simple metal shim to fit between the wedge and frame.
Just like that 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims, you could daily drive it all year. It's a blast. However, you WILL run into certain days where you just don't want to deal with the good/bad that comes with driving it daily. And that's okay...
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Following Lofetin here's our early build/ride thoughts.
Bike builds have gone together with no drama with everything fitting as it should.
Mine is a Sram force crank and needed no washers.
Brothers is Shimano/magene and likewise went on with no issue.
Running gear is Shimano so can't comment on the sram 10t, but no issues here. Gears so worked without issue first time.
Haven't aligned brothers brakes but mine set up fine with no rubbing.
Seatpost... Just a 20k shakedown ride this morning in some crappy weather but no problems with slipping. Maybe because I set up seatpost clamp differently to Lofetins mechanic, but who knows. Certainly not trying to put those guys down.
I greased the sliding faces of the clamp and bolt so they have minimum effect on torque value when nipping it up, and put a strip of self adhesive skateboard grip tape on the curved part of the clamp that interfaces with the seat post. I weigh approx 72kg and did the majority of the distance, but brother weighs 110kg.
Apart from all that we felt the bike was smooth and well damped from road noise.
Pulls up straight on the brakes and descends and corners confidently.
It's very nice to ride 8)
We also think it will be pretty fast.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMSSzdwj/IMG-20251124-120615751.jpg)
Do holla if you have specific questions :)
What’s the degree/angle and length you’re running on the stem?
I suppose there is no way to integrate the cables inside the stem?
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Pretty sure it's a7 degree 150mm stem. No, no integration but still trying various fit options. Absolutely loving the long stretch on this thing.
I think one of the main things with this frame is the ability to try positions you can't get on other bikes short of the likes of Ridley.
Fini... Can take 35mm measured rear tyre, but wouldn't want any more.
Down tube flat area where water bottle cage sits measures approx 32mm wide
Pertual... My 110kg little brother said he couldn't feel it noodling. That was stood up leaning on pedals and twisting and bouncing and 1450w seated push up the road. Pretty good I think.
He didn't get the seatpost to move either.
-
Here is my update on the AeroTrace. Conceptually it's good. Functionally it needs a little work going into 2026. I respect VeloBuild's efforts into trying something new versus releasing another SL7/SL8 one-bike-to-clone them all. And VB being mindful of their customers with things like a custom Di2 battery mount, custom 3D spacers for various stem and routing systems is something I wish more brands in this price range offered. On paper you really can't ask for more from VeloBuild. Kudos to them.
It's not for everyone. And that's okay...
The reality is the 368 is a TT frame disguised in road bike geometry clothing. You get the theoretical aero benefits of using a TT bike on the road (for sustain steady efforts), and you also take with you the negatives of using a TT bike for the road (weight and agility). Geometry will be the biggest hurdle for most I reckon.
Jumping back onto my lighter bikes like the Tavelo Arow, it's pretty much night and day in term of dynamics. The Arow is so nimble and dances so well out of the saddle. The AeroTrace on the other does not like to surge. Or climb. Or blast out of an apex. Because...it's a TT bike. To re-emphasis again, it's a TT bike not an aero bike.
But is it fun ride? HECK YES. Arguably the most exciting frame I've ridden in this price range. But it's A LOT to deal with if you're planning to daily this bike. The frame has so much carbon you are reminded of it constantly. Dynamically the ride takes me back to the early-2000s import tuner scene. I've used this analogy before. Ever been in the interior of a 20 year old Japanese car on the highway? Then you know the exact feel (and sounds) I'm referring to. The AeroTrace is fun because of how imperfect and unnecessary it. If the Tarmac SL8 is like a modern day sports car with modern creature comforts, the AeroTrace is like a 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims. Porky and kind of fast?
You can thank the almost 1500g of carbon for soaking up road imperfections. Because the AeroTrace is also surprisingly more comfortable than you would think. And the rear end doesn't get upset over rough pavement. Like a tank.
What I would like to see from VeloBuild in a perfect world:
-A more subdued and eloquent aero frame design that isn't overtly a TT frame. Scott Foil or Cannondale System Six vibes. This would cut down on weight, offer more crosswind stability, and make the frame more usable for a wider range of riders. This isn't the bike you take to Mallorca or the Dolomites. And, lets be honest, the bike looks proportionally wrong with any set of wheels shallower than 60mm deep.
-Happy VB fixed the Sram derailleur chainstay issue. I'd like to see more thought into preventing the seatpost from slipping. Even if VB just provided a simple metal shim to fit between the wedge and frame.
Just like that 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims, you could daily drive it all year. It's a blast. However, you WILL run into certain days where you just don't want to deal with the good/bad that comes with driving it daily. And that's okay...
Next year I’ll go with my 368 to climb Ventoux, and that will be okay… haha!
Patrick, about the custom 3D spacer: did you make the drawing for them?
I’m asking because I will use a Lexon/Kocvelo handlebar, and Chris asked me for a 3D spacer so they can manufacture it. I don’t know if it’s the same one you used, and I’d like to know if I can request the same model.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S900bd5d6d2fd4771beb12fd9c7bb38150.jpg)
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Next year I’ll go with my 368 to climb Ventoux, and that will be okay… haha!
Patrick, about the custom 3D spacer: did you make the drawing for them?
I’m asking because I will use a Lexon/Kocvelo handlebar, and Chris asked me for a 3D spacer so they can manufacture it. I don’t know if it’s the same one you used, and I’d like to know if I can request the same model.
Naw I didn't provide the drawing for VeloBuild, but I did push for them to at least provide an FSA/ACR specific spacer style for its common compatibility.
What wheels are you gonna use going up Ventoux? :-X
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Thanks for the thorough first impressions after the first impressions Patrick!
Mine came in yesterday and pretty stoked to build it up, just not sure when it's going to be nice enough to ride outside...
Here is my update on the AeroTrace. Conceptually it's good. Functionally it needs a little work going into 2026. I respect VeloBuild's efforts into trying something new versus releasing another SL7/SL8 one-bike-to-clone them all. And VB being mindful of their customers with things like a custom Di2 battery mount, custom 3D spacers for various stem and routing systems is something I wish more brands in this price range offered. On paper you really can't ask for more from VeloBuild. Kudos to them.
It's not for everyone. And that's okay...
The reality is the 368 is a TT frame disguised in road bike geometry clothing. You get the theoretical aero benefits of using a TT bike on the road (for sustain steady efforts), and you also take with you the negatives of using a TT bike for the road (weight and agility). Geometry will be the biggest hurdle for most I reckon.
Jumping back onto my lighter bikes like the Tavelo Arow, it's pretty much night and day in term of dynamics. The Arow is so nimble and dances so well out of the saddle. The AeroTrace on the other does not like to surge. Or climb. Or blast out of an apex. Because...it's a TT bike. To re-emphasis again, it's a TT bike not an aero bike.
But is it fun ride? HECK YES. Arguably the most exciting frame I've ridden in this price range. But it's A LOT to deal with if you're planning to daily this bike. The frame has so much carbon you are reminded of it constantly. Dynamically the ride takes me back to the early-2000s import tuner scene. I've used this analogy before. Ever been in the interior of a 20 year old Japanese car on the highway? Then you know the exact feel (and sounds) I'm referring to. The AeroTrace is fun because of how imperfect and unnecessary it. If the Tarmac SL8 is like a modern day sports car with modern creature comforts, the AeroTrace is like a 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims. Porky and kind of fast?
You can thank the almost 1500g of carbon for soaking up road imperfections. Because the AeroTrace is also surprisingly more comfortable than you would think. And the rear end doesn't get upset over rough pavement. Like a tank.
What I would like to see from VeloBuild in a perfect world:
-A more subdued and eloquent aero frame design that isn't overtly a TT frame. Scott Foil or Cannondale System Six vibes. This would cut down on weight, offer more crosswind stability, and make the frame more usable for a wider range of riders. This isn't the bike you take to Mallorca or the Dolomites. And, lets be honest, the bike looks proportionally wrong with any set of wheels shallower than 60mm deep.
-Happy VB fixed the Sram derailleur chainstay issue. I'd like to see more thought into preventing the seatpost from slipping. Even if VB just provided a simple metal shim to fit between the wedge and frame.
Just like that 2003 Nissan Z with 20" rims, you could daily drive it all year. It's a blast. However, you WILL run into certain days where you just don't want to deal with the good/bad that comes with driving it daily. And that's okay...
-
Great colour!
Mines two days young and covered in sh1te :'( ;D
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Naw I didn't provide the drawing for VeloBuild, but I did push for them to at least provide an FSA/ACR specific spacer style for its common compatibility.
What wheels are you gonna use going up Ventoux? :-X
Ok, I think I will request the same one that you used, because if I need to make a new spacer later, I can do it.
I will use XCMS 65 and 54-40T :'(
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Pretty sure it's a7 degree 150mm stem. No, no integration but still trying various fit options. Absolutely loving the long stretch on this thing.
I think one of the main things with this frame is the ability to try positions you can't get on other bikes short of the likes of Ridley.
Fini... Can take 35mm measured rear tyre, but wouldn't want any more.
Down tube flat area where water bottle cage sits measures approx 32mm wide
Pertual... My 110kg little brother said he couldn't feel it noodling. That was stood up leaning on pedals and twisting and bouncing and 1450w seated push up the road. Pretty good I think.
He didn't get the seatpost to move either.
Thanks Pistonbroke, really helpful on the feedback. Good that it's not a noodle and given the weight it would have been a massive oversight by VB if it was, not that i can crack out 1400W anyway ;D
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purple
What color is that exactly? Or what did you tell them? Looks awesome.
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Got it a bit more assambled as I wait for the last parts to arrive in the next few days. BB threaded in easily by hand. Lower headset bearing snug but easy to fit by hand, while top bearing required a bit more force, but still possible by hand.
The custom top cover I got VB to print fits nicely with the spacers for the LC HBR17 handlebar except it didn't have the two small holes that each spacer has. Now I checked I see that the CAD I got from LC and sent to VB doesn't include those (as they didn't send CAD for spacer but rather just the headset top cap), so not any fault of VB. I filed off the two small tabs on the lowest spacer and then all should be good (as it still locks to the top cap by being sunk into it).
Next up is needing to cut the seat post and install the saddle, then put on shifters when those arrive and check the position before cutting the fork steerer.
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Got it a bit more assambled as I wait for the last parts to arrive in the next few days. BB threaded in easily by hand. Lower headset bearing snug but easy to fit by hand, while top bearing required a bit more force, but still possible by hand.
The custom top cover I got VB to print fits nicely with the spacers for the LC HBR17 handlebar except it didn't have the two small holes that each spacer has. Now I checked I see that the CAD I got from LC and sent to VB doesn't include those (as they didn't send CAD for spacer but rather just the headset top cap), so not any fault of VB. I filed off the two small tabs on the lowest spacer and then all should be good (as it still locks to the top cap by being sunk into it).
Next up is needing to cut the seat post and install the saddle, then put on shifters when those arrive and check the position before cutting the fork steerer.
Nice color!
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Got it a bit more assambled as I wait for the last parts to arrive in the next few days. BB threaded in easily by hand. Lower headset bearing snug but easy to fit by hand, while top bearing required a bit more force, but still possible by hand.
The custom top cover I got VB to print fits nicely with the spacers for the LC HBR17 handlebar except it didn't have the two small holes that each spacer has. Now I checked I see that the CAD I got from LC and sent to VB doesn't include those (as they didn't send CAD for spacer but rather just the headset top cap), so not any fault of VB. I filed off the two small tabs on the lowest spacer and then all should be good (as it still locks to the top cap by being sunk into it).
Next up is needing to cut the seat post and install the saddle, then put on shifters when those arrive and check the position before cutting the fork steerer.
Could you share this 3D spacer? I asked Lexon, but they haven't responded. I can compare and send it to Chris to see if it's the same.
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Yes, I've attached the headset top cap file I received from LC.
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What color is that exactly? Or what did you tell them? Looks awesome.
I provided this reference photo which is actually a wrap that is kinda purple metallic and it turned out really well.
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Update about my issues. Velobuild and Chris have been amazing about my seatpost struggles and are sending me a new seatpost and seatpost clamp. They have been helpful with all possible problems and in understanding them.
Some photos of the complete build ;D
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Update about my issues. Velobuild and Chris have been amazing about my seatpost struggles and are sending me a new seatpost and seatpost clamp. They have been helpful with all possible problems and in understanding them.
Some photos of the complete build ;D
Wow I live in Porto too, the second VB-R-386 will arrive in Porto soon!
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Porto is the only city I've visited around the world that my wife and I could see ourselves living abroad. We have a soft spot for second cities. The people there have warm hearts.
I still have some pricey Vintage Port wine aging in its bottles 8)
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Wow I live in Porto too, the second VB-R-386 will arrive in Porto soon!
I guess we'll have to meet up to ride!
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Porto is the only city I've visited around the world that my wife and I could see ourselves living abroad. We have a soft spot for second cities. The people there have warm hearts.
I still have some pricey Vintage Port wine aging in its bottles 8)
Lovely city, you should come back!
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Had another spin on her today. English winter shite weather so not pushing hard, but the cheeky headwind here and there was a useful test ground.
I think the position I can adopt on this is going to be quite the game changer. Aero and sustainable, for me at least.
Steep seat angle and relatively high stack is very comfortable with hands on hoods/horizontal forearms. I think I may go full Arne/Jan-Willem and pop a higher stem on to try for a semi praying mantisy set up just to see.
5'10 and on the 58 btw
Have popped my nice XMCS wheels on it which has added to the fun and made it feel very lively. On the scales it's a good kilo and a half heavier than my FL1 but I don't notice it on the road.
I know Patrick compared it to a 2003 Nissan Zee, and totally respect that, but for me it's more like an AM Vanquish or Bentley Conti GT. She's not like a whip crack, all nervous skittering energy, but will lift her skirts and progress at a fair lick if you give her some oomph 8)
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Slowly progressing with the build here. Cut the seat post and installed the Di2 battery and ran the cable to the RD (cut off ~135mm or 66g and the 3D printed Di2 battery holder incl. bolt and nut is 48g, so the cut seat post incl. saddle clamp but without the battery holder is 274g, a bit better than the total uncut package at 388g).
The battery holder seems a bit too big for the seat post, however. On the attached picture I've shoved it up as far as I can (with the clamping bolt loose). I think it'll stay since the clamping part has some engagement, but will be interesting to hear how others have found it - I take it we'll only be a few using this solution as it seems they've now changed the Di2 battery mount to the down tube. If others have found the fitment good I'll do a double check and see if I've missed something.
FWIW the seat post seems to fit the frame hole quite well being snug so the clamp only needs a bit of tightening before it engages with the seat post.
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Had another spin on her today. English winter shite weather so not pushing hard, but the cheeky headwind here and there was a useful test ground.
I think the position I can adopt on this is going to be quite the game changer. Aero and sustainable, for me at least.
Steep seat angle and relatively high stack is very comfortable with hands on hoods/horizontal forearms. I think I may go full Arne/Jan-Willem and pop a higher stem on to try for a semi praying mantisy set up just to see.
5'10 and on the 58 btw
Have popped my nice XMCS wheels on it which has added to the fun and made it feel very lively. On the scales it's a good kilo and a half heavier than my FL1 but I don't notice it on the road.
I know Patrick compared it to a 2003 Nissan Zee, and totally respect that, but for me it's more like an AM Vanquish or Bentley Conti GT. She's not like a whip crack, all nervous skittering energy, but will lift her skirts and progress at a fair lick if you give her some oomph 8)
5'10 on a 58? is that 180cm in metric? i've just had a sizing an it turned out to be the 55, interesting as we are technically the same height
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Update about my issues. Velobuild and Chris have been amazing about my seatpost struggles and are sending me a new seatpost and seatpost clamp. They have been helpful with all possible problems and in understanding them.
Some photos of the complete build ;D
Nice build!
Your saddlebag is installed incorrectly the boa should be facing outwards.
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5'10 on a 58? is that 180cm in metric? i've just had a sizing an it turned out to be the 55, interesting as we are technically the same height
Purely subjective fitting on my part. Only about a year on road bikes, but kept feeling like I wanted more room. I guess a few years riding an XL G1 will do that to you ;D
My Ican is a 56 but have had 52/4/6 frames from Specialized and Felt
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Hi, I’m building my first road bike and I’m unsure what frame to pick 368 or 268. I weigh 74kg and am 186cm. I live in the south coust in Sweden with relatively flat roads but foten a bit windy. Im training for a 315km race. What frame size would you pick aswell? My inseam length is about 88,5cm which makes me a size 58, but I apparently got quite short arms being only 59cm. Inseam to sternum 64cm.
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Hi, I’m building my first road bike and I’m unsure what frame to pick 368 or 268. I weigh 74kg and am 186cm. I live in the south coust in Sweden with relatively flat roads but foten a bit windy. Im training for a 315km race. What frame size would you pick aswell? My inseam length is about 88,5cm which makes me a size 58, but I apparently got quite short arms being only 59cm. Inseam to sternum 64cm.
If possible borrow a bike from a friend to try and go to your local bike shop to get a feel for the bikes they have and see if they have a demonstration model you can take a spin on.
Assume you have been riding MTB TT or gravel previously? If not 315km is quite the place to start :o ;D
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Yes, been riding MTB, xc, enduro and downhill for about 8 years so pretty confident on the bike but i am so unsure about the frame, go for the more aero 368 which looks amazing or the 268. Love the blue chameleon. What frame size have you guys pick and whats your measurements?
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Hi, I’m building my first road bike and I’m unsure what frame to pick 368 or 268. I weigh 74kg and am 186cm. I live in the south coust in Sweden with relatively flat roads but foten a bit windy. Im training for a 315km race. What frame size would you pick aswell? My inseam length is about 88,5cm which makes me a size 58, but I apparently got quite short arms being only 59cm. Inseam to sternum 64cm.
for such distances i would go for the 368 (bear in mind we have no real aero testing so it could be bogus) as comfort and aurodynamics are king. On the sizing, beware that the 58 is almost 2cm longer in reach than the 55, so if you have shorter than usual arms you might need to run a very short stem.
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Yes, been riding MTB, xc, enduro and downhill for about 8 years so pretty confident on the bike but i am so unsure about the frame, go for the more aero 368 which looks amazing or the 268. Love the blue chameleon. What frame size have you guys pick and whats your measurements?
Came from a similar background.
The 368 frame is fun for sure, and gives a lot of scope for getting your saddle/cockpit position sorted.
Don't know what your budget is, but would urge you to put a good amount aside for wheels and tyres. Probably more than the cost of the frame.
I've found the XMCS carbon spoked wheels with gp5k (or similarly good) tyres to be a transformative experience, although I'm sure other wheelsets could provide a similar experience. #noshillin'
Eta look at possibly using a separate stem and bars set up so you can use something like the 300mm wide bikedoc bars to reap some great aero gains.
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The tyres on my XMCS rims measure up near 35 and they fit, but wouldn't want to go any larger. Can't remember if the tyre is a 30 or 32 but will check tomorrow.
The down tube isn't flat on the bottle side, get a measurement and profile for you but the wide aero bottle cage I got from Ali was too wide.
is the aero bottle you mention the copied trek one? would you mind sharing a picture of the frame with the bottle installed so that we can see how much it sticks out?
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is the aero bottle you mention the copied trek one? would you mind sharing a picture of the frame with the bottle installed so that we can see how much it sticks out?
Not the trek aero bottle shape, I'm to much of a luddite for anything but round.
It was this bottle cage, and admit I didn't bother looking at the dimensions
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwnTG9a
Pertual, sorry, added photo
(https://i.postimg.cc/y6cCgWp6/Screenshot-20251201-074051.png)
Sticks out about 11mm either side. Couldn't get a good photo as black on black, sorry.
If anyone finds one that fits pop it up ln :)
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Not the trek aero bottle shape, I'm to much of a luddite for anything but round.
It was this bottle cage, and admit I didn't bother looking at the dimensions
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwnTG9a
Sticks out about 11mm either side. Couldn't get a good photo as black on black, sorry.
If anyone finds one that fits pop it up ln :)
Unfortunately the page doesn't exist anymore, i meant this one
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Unfortunately the page doesn't exist anymore, i meant this one
Can you measure and tell us the width of the bottle? I can’t find the width anywhere?
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Can you measure and tell us the width of the bottle? I can’t find the width anywhere?
i don't have one on my hands unfortunately, i was waiting to see if it made sense to buy it or just stick to round bottles.
EDIT: i did find the size in one aliexpress listing, seems to be 7cm wide?
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Got the bike more or less completely assembled, just missing a few non-vital parts like bar tape and proper bottle Cages. Here's some findings.
- The headset dust cover/top cap is hitting the frame (even with the C clip included). I made a small plastic C-shaped 0.5mm thick spacer and that seems to do the trick so it clears the frame (at least so far).
- The fork just slightly scrapes the bottom of the head tube (see attached picture). I'm guessing it might be hard to space this out, so probably going to sand the bottom of the head tube a bit so it goes more clear of the fork.
- The chain stay issue that Patrick also showed seems to be also present with Ultegra R8150 rear derailleur - I have not played around with chain length yet to see if that might change things (if someone is more experienced than me with B-screw vs. pulley wheel to cog clearance vs. B-screw I'm open for input). Basically you seem forced to have the B-screw tightened more than needed for the RD cage not to hit the chain stay. I couldn't get the ZTTO SLR Gen 3 11-32 cassette to shift well (it shifts OK on two other bikes here) as the cage cannot be moved close to the cassette, which seems pretty important for that cassette to work. I've put on an Ultegra 11-30 now and that seems to be better in the stand at least. You can see on the attached pictures how close the RD cage is to the chain stay currently, yet it's still quite far from the biggest (30T) cog on the cassette. If I loosen the B-screw to bring it closer to the biggest cog it will hit the chain stay in the smallest (11T) cog.
Unless I find a good fix for that last issue it is a bit annoying as I think it's quite the oversight in the frame design - and a bit surprising considering this is not their first frame. I know they've fixed it already in at least some of the sizes, but it seems they've also shipped some frames out with this issue after they became aware of it.
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Got the bike more or less completely assembled, just missing a few non-vital parts like bar tape and proper bottle Cages. Here's some findings.
- The headset dust cover/top cap is hitting the frame (even with the C clip included). I made a small plastic C-shaped 0.5mm thick spacer and that seems to do the trick so it clears the frame (at least so far).
- The fork just slightly scrapes the bottom of the head tube (see attached picture). I'm guessing it might be hard to space this out, so probably going to sand the bottom of the head tube a bit so it goes more clear of the fork.
The long term fix for both these problems is to use slightly thicker bearings than the standard 7mm deep ones. 52mm x 40mm 45 degree bearings can easily be found in 7.5mm or 8mm depth.
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For my information, how do you explain Velobuild making such obvious errors?
I understand that their testing phases don't allow them to test every configuration and that they have a limited number of testers, but still. How is this possible?
I am, however, aware that many frames undergo some modifications after the initial sales. It's a bit like treating buyers like beta testers.
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A lot of the designers over in these newer chinese brands are younger engineers who may not be avid cyclists or bike mechanics themselves and don't have the decades of individual or collective experience that the designers at established western brands have. They can't have the foresight to predict all the problems that can arise from actually using the bike. There's only so much you can copy from someone else when you're not directly involved in the design process, even if you're the one ultimately producing it. Furthermore, a low cost outfit like Velobuild probably doesn't put that many resources into all stages of design, so issues are more likely to be overlooked. More experienced engineers and designers might also be able to get better salaries at other places that charge more for their products and therefore have more revenue to spend on employees.
Simply put, you get what you pay for.
Open flange hubs with side inserting spokes are another design disaster that I think has a similar origin. New Winspace SLC5 fork crown hitting the frame when turning too far is probably another.
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Got the bike more or less completely assembled, just missing a few non-vital parts like bar tape and proper bottle Cages. Here's some findings.
- The headset dust cover/top cap is hitting the frame (even with the C clip included). I made a small plastic C-shaped 0.5mm thick spacer and that seems to do the trick so it clears the frame (at least so far).
- The fork just slightly scrapes the bottom of the head tube (see attached picture). I'm guessing it might be hard to space this out, so probably going to sand the bottom of the head tube a bit so it goes more clear of the fork.
- The chain stay issue that Patrick also showed seems to be also present with Ultegra R8150 rear derailleur - I have not played around with chain length yet to see if that might change things (if someone is more experienced than me with B-screw vs. pulley wheel to cog clearance vs. B-screw I'm open for input). Basically you seem forced to have the B-screw tightened more than needed for the RD cage not to hit the chain stay. I couldn't get the ZTTO SLR Gen 3 11-32 cassette to shift well (it shifts OK on two other bikes here) as the cage cannot be moved close to the cassette, which seems pretty important for that cassette to work. I've put on an Ultegra 11-30 now and that seems to be better in the stand at least. You can see on the attached pictures how close the RD cage is to the chain stay currently, yet it's still quite far from the biggest (30T) cog on the cassette. If I loosen the B-screw to bring it closer to the biggest cog it will hit the chain stay in the smallest (11T) cog.
Unless I find a good fix for that last issue it is a bit annoying as I think it's quite the oversight in the frame design - and a bit surprising considering this is not their first frame. I know they've fixed it already in at least some of the sizes, but it seems they've also shipped some frames out with this issue after they became aware of it.
Can you share a photo of the complete bike? I'm curious to see the XS frame with the wheels. I also ordered an XS, and Chris informed me that this issue with the stay has been fixed, so I hope I won't have that problem.
I didn't quite understand your issue with the headset dust cover. Are you using their handlebars?
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Here's a picture - ignore the tape on the top tube, it's just to protect it from the handlebar hitting it until I get the bar tape on.
I'm using the LightCarbon HBR17 bars, but got VB to print a custom headset dust cover to fit that bar/stem - it's basically the same as the standard cover, but just with a slightly differently shaped cut-out on the top.
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Here's a picture - ignore the tape on the top tube, it's just to protect it from the handlebar hitting it until I get the bar tape on.
I'm using the LightCarbon HBR17 bars, but got VB to print a custom headset dust cover to fit that bar/stem - it's basically the same as the standard cover, but just with a slightly differently shaped cut-out on the top.
Congrats it is the best good looking 368 build i have seen.
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Fini is right, that's a nice looking rig mtm.
Latest fitting fun and games on my ugly duckling XL.
TT sofa saddle and higher stem.
The comfort is still impressing us, and I'm loving the reach.
Speed feels easy to maintain
Climbs nicely seated.
Going to take the FL1 out later for a comparison.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=126491&t=1)
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Here's a picture - ignore the tape on the top tube, it's just to protect it from the handlebar hitting it until I get the bar tape on.
I'm using the LightCarbon HBR17 bars, but got VB to print a custom headset dust cover to fit that bar/stem - it's basically the same as the standard cover, but just with a slightly differently shaped cut-out on the top.
looks really good! what's the final weight (i see some lightweight components so i'm guessing you tried to reduce as much as possible, 8.2/8.5kg?
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Fini is right, that's a nice looking rig mtm.
Latest fitting fun and games on my ugly duckling XL.
TT sofa saddle and higher stem.
The comfort is still impressing us, and I'm loving the reach.
Speed feels easy to maintain
Climbs nicely seated.
Going to take the FL1 out later for a comparison.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=126491&t=1)
are these wheels 45s? maybe with some deeper ones it would look less big ;D
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Lolz, they're 35's off my FL1.
Wheel tech seems to be changing so fast at the moment that I'm waiting for a bit before committing to a new pair.
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looks really good! what's the final weight (i see some lightweight components so i'm guessing you tried to reduce as much as possible, 8.2/8.5kg?
The pictured setup was pretty much bang on 8.0 kg. With the Ultegra cassette on now it must be at least 100 g more. It'll get some lighter pedals on in the future and I'm also thinking whether it should get some lighter wheels (should be able to shave 300-400 g and keep the depth) plus small weight tweaks here and there like lighter fork steerer expander and maybe lighter crank (though I do like the sleekness of the Xcadey crank). Hitting 7.5 kg should be possible (though really not that important in pancake flat Denmark).
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Lolz, they're 35's off my FL1.
Wheel tech seems to be changing so fast at the moment that I'm waiting for a bit before committing to a new pair.
By the way whats´s the total weight of both of your XL builds?
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By the way whats´s the total weight of both of your XL builds?
Still waiting for wheels on brother's bike, Evri is absolutely useless >:( But that won't be particularly light as he's about 110kg so Clydesdale build.
My black one is about 8.3 maybe(I did weigh it but am old and forgetful) as pictured. Apart from the wheels (1040g) I haven't got anything Weightweenie on it I don't think.
Hydraulic cable 11s 105 shifters
GRX mech with 11 42 cassette
Force crank and ring 560g.
Think I worked out that if I moved my FL1 components across it would have been 7.4ish kgs, but weight wasn't the object of the exercise.
Seem to remember some of the TdF Ridley's were just over 8kgs so that was roughly the target.
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Still waiting for wheels on brother's bike, Evri is absolutely useless >:( But that won't be particularly light as he's about 110kg so Clydesdale build.
My black one is about 8.3 maybe(I did weigh it but am old and forgetful) as pictured. Apart from the wheels (1040g) I haven't got anything Weightweenie on it I don't think.
Hydraulic cable 11s 105 shifters
GRX mech with 11 42 cassette
Force crank and ring 560g.
Think I worked out that if I moved my FL1 components across it would have been 7.4ish kgs, but weight wasn't the object of the exercise.
Seem to remember some of the TdF Ridley's were just over 8kgs so that was roughly the target.
8.3 without weight weenies parts is impressive because ridley noah from Unox was 8.2 kg for size medium (with 1600 g wheels). I thought they were going to be 8.5+kg for that size.
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Handmade in Italy ;D ;D
https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ7GwJLkfiT/?img_index=1
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Handmade in Italy ;D ;D
https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ7GwJLkfiT/?img_index=1
Seller seems to be very close to me, from what i've seen he sells chinese OEM frames with custom painting as fully built bikes, no idea on pricing. Might be worth it to go there and check out the 368 in person if he has a shop.
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Seller seems to be very close to me, from what i've seen he sells chinese OEM frames with custom painting as fully built bikes, no idea on pricing. Might be worth it to go there and check out the 368 in person if he has a shop.
recently ordered one. The final price in Italy, painted and with a 5-year warranty, is around €2,000. I bought this aerodynamic bike to use only in circuit races, in a “super-aero” setup (aero bottles, 65 mm wheels, aero helmet, aero chainring, Koegel pulley wheels for time trials). I can send photos in January when it’s ready and fully assembled. 8)
In the meantime, a whole new world opened up for me: I pushed ChatGPT and Gemini hard to figure out where the frame actually comes from. I knew it was Chinese, but I didn’t know from where. That’s how I discovered Veloplus and this forum. :)
Unfortunately, not great news for me. The seller claimed: “100% Toray 1100S” and 925 grams in size M. So I thought: hey, maybe it uses the same mold but is made in another factory with “higher-grade carbon.” But after further research, it seems that was just an illusion. Most likely he buys it from Veloplus, repaints it, and resells it.
Which is actually fine — custom paint, assembly, warranty, local support in Italy — all good. But lying so much about the carbon quality and the frame weight is not a good move. :(
When I pick up the frame, I’ll talk to him calmly about it. Then I'll forget this unpleasant story and focus on pushing this "beast" as hard as possible 8)
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More photos in this gallery: https://www.instagram.com/p/DQGkm5_jBzQ/?img_index=10
Attached panoramic video
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recently ordered one. The final price in Italy, painted and with a 5-year warranty, is around €2,000. I bought this aerodynamic bike to use only in circuit races, in a “super-aero” setup (aero bottles, 65 mm wheels, aero helmet, aero chainring, Koegel pulley wheels for time trials). I can send photos in January when it’s ready and fully assembled. 8)
In the meantime, a whole new world opened up for me: I pushed ChatGPT and Gemini hard to figure out where the frame actually comes from. I knew it was Chinese, but I didn’t know from where. That’s how I discovered Veloplus and this forum. :)
Unfortunately, not great news for me. The seller claimed: “100% Toray 1100S” and 925 grams in size M. So I thought: hey, maybe it uses the same mold but is made in another factory with “higher-grade carbon.” But after further research, it seems that was just an illusion. Most likely he buys it from Veloplus, repaints it, and resells it.
Which is actually fine — custom paint, assembly, warranty, local support in Italy — all good. But lying so much about the carbon quality and the frame weight is not a good move. :(
When I pick up the frame, I’ll talk to him calmly about it. Then I'll forget this unpleasant story and focus on pushing this "beast" as hard as possible 8)
At least, check if it the last generation with the modified rear end.
Maybe Velobuild keeps.the "Z3" frames for the italian shop (better finish like faced calipers, ...).
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Giorgio
Well, the 975g may be optimistic, but the bike rides really nicely.
Look forward to seeing your build and colour choices!
What height are you/size frame and how are you speccing it? Remember if you're putting SRAM on to check there's no derailleur interference.
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Giorgio
Well, the 975g may be optimistic, but the bike rides really nicely.
Look forward to seeing your build and colour choices!
What height are you/size frame and how are you speccing it? Remember if you're putting SRAM on to check there's no derailleur interference.
I'm 183 cm tall and chose the L (550) frame, which has a very similar geometry to the frame I've been using for the last two years*. I'll be installing the Shimano Ultegra groupset with a Dura-Ace cassette to shave a few grams. I've already noted any potential defects for the mechanic who will assemble it, such as the saddle slipping. Luckily, the mechanic is very experienced, so I'm fine. I'll send you photos as soon as the frame arrives.
*I bought this frame imported from China from the same importer (I deleted the brand to avoid advertising) after my Wilier SLR Zero was stolen. I was surprised; I love this frame (better than the Wilier in terms of feel), it's comfortable, and the geometry is perfect for me. I hope to find the same sensations with this new bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qntgzju.jpeg) (https://i.imgur.com/1ldczxJ.jpeg)
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recently ordered one. The final price in Italy, painted and with a 5-year warranty, is around €2,000. I bought this aerodynamic bike to use only in circuit races, in a “super-aero” setup (aero bottles, 65 mm wheels, aero helmet, aero chainring, Koegel pulley wheels for time trials). I can send photos in January when it’s ready and fully assembled. 8)
In the meantime, a whole new world opened up for me: I pushed ChatGPT and Gemini hard to figure out where the frame actually comes from. I knew it was Chinese, but I didn’t know from where. That’s how I discovered Veloplus and this forum. :)
Unfortunately, not great news for me. The seller claimed: “100% Toray 1100S” and 925 grams in size M. So I thought: hey, maybe it uses the same mold but is made in another factory with “higher-grade carbon.” But after further research, it seems that was just an illusion. Most likely he buys it from Veloplus, repaints it, and resells it.
Which is actually fine — custom paint, assembly, warranty, local support in Italy — all good. But lying so much about the carbon quality and the frame weight is not a good move. :(
When I pick up the frame, I’ll talk to him calmly about it. Then I'll forget this unpleasant story and focus on pushing this "beast" as hard as possible 8)
2k for the full bike or for the frameset? that price with ultegra and carbon wheels is bonkers. Out of curiosity, is the "gara" frame UCI certified? i've seen some stickers in the past on frames that weren't really UCI compliant
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2k for the full bike or for the frameset? that price with ultegra and carbon wheels is bonkers. Out of curiosity, is the "gara" frame UCI certified? i've seen some stickers in the past on frames that weren't really UCI compliant
2k isn't much for a full bike with Ultegra, quite the opposite... But is it common practice to put 'fake' UCI stickers on frames sold by dealers? I came across a Northern Italian brand with a very strange UCI sticker that wasn't on the official list, so I'm wondering if that's normal...
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2k for the full bike or for the frameset? that price with ultegra and carbon wheels is bonkers. Out of curiosity, is the "gara" frame UCI certified? i've seen some stickers in the past on frames that weren't really UCI compliant
I think it refers to the painted frameset with warranty, service, etc.
It's certainly not cheap, but obviously they're not a non-profit.
If it also has slightly better specs than Velobuild, it might even make sense.
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About €2,000 for the frame alone. About €5,000 for the finished bike with a power meter, wheels, pedals... ready to race.
Regarding the UCI sticker, this retailer doesn't apply them.
However, I’ve ridden several UCI Time Trials with a TT frame without the sticker and never had any issues.
The officials checked weight and geometry, specifically: saddle setback, distance from saddle tip to extension tips, and the distance from the pads to the end of the extensions.
A commissaire explained to me that the sticker simply certifies that the frame shape meets the regulations; without the sticker, they just have to manually verify the geometry to ensure it complies
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Funnily enough, when I messaged Chris @ VeloBuild regarding UCI legality, this was his response:
"Our customer is make UCI registeration now .should finish soon"
I don't know if this is really going to happen, but I guess one can keep their hopes up.
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If you're feeling a bit unhappy about the weight you shouldn't be....
New Factor One forks are 730g and medium frame 1180.
(https://images.ctfassets.net/uyc32o2uod42/5h9pGidJ2PfuPPhCROvbBT/9cbeba6f4b207237e80dee2070573e10/Studio-one-onyx-black-DS180.png?w=1200&h=660&fm=avif)
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If you're feeling a bit unhappy about the weight you shouldn't be....
New Factor One forks are 730g and medium frame 1180.
(https://images.ctfassets.net/uyc32o2uod42/5h9pGidJ2PfuPPhCROvbBT/9cbeba6f4b207237e80dee2070573e10/Studio-one-onyx-black-DS180.png?w=1200&h=660&fm=avif)
That's a chunky for, 8kg bike at the end
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Significantly faster bike though
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Significantly faster bike though
Wrong thread i know but Hambini is back on Factor, go check on YT
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Significantly faster bike though
In my head this makes me think of the difference between an AMG Mercedes versus a V8 pickup truck.
Both are heavy and can haul azz on an open highway. But that's pretty much where the similarities end.
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Significantly faster bike though
How do you know?
I'm joking ;D
Wrong thread i know but Hambini is back on Factor, go check on YT
I don't think he liked it :o lol
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Wrong thread i know but Hambini is back on Factor, go check on YT
Yeahhh I don't really care much for what that guy has to say on aero.
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Significantly faster bike though
I would really like to see how the Aerotrace compares to other aero bikes. I know that it is probably just a aero bike gimmick but who knows.
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I would really like to see how the Aerotrace compares to other aero bikes. I know that it is probably just a aero bike gimmick but who knows.
Agreed.
It would be nice to know how people are finding their builds compared to their previous bikes, maybe on Strava routes or segments.
So far we haven't really tried ours in anger yet. Combination of bad weather and missing components. - brother ordered some XMCS 65mm wheels but EVRI lost them, sigh. Worst delivery company ever. Probably.
I've just today got them both up and running today with our spare winter wheels so we may manage some runs next week weather permitting. At this time of year we're not terribly adventurous, the routes are fairly regular and so may get some idea of any speed/effort difference over our current fairly conservative round tubed bikes.
It's a shame Patrick doesn't do a timed test route like David Arthur does with his review bikes....
Something to think about Patty? :-)
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If anyone has any tips besides the ones given in this thread about seatpost slipping, I'd love to hear them. I've tried everything while waiting for replacement parts but the seatpost keeps slipping even with 9nm.
Thanks!
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It's a shame Patrick doesn't do a timed test route like David Arthur does with his review bikes....
Something to think about Patty? :-)
Jesse from the Nero Show said the new Factor One was only like 6 seconds faster than his Tavelo Arow over 90 minutes on the same loop and similar weather conditions. At an absurd 350 watts. That pretty much sums up why I don't do speed tests.
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Agreed.
It would be nice to know how people are finding their builds compared to their previous bikes, maybe on Strava routes or segments.
So far we haven't really tried ours in anger yet. Combination of bad weather and missing components. - brother ordered some XMCS 65mm wheels but EVRI lost them, sigh. Worst delivery company ever. Probably.
I've just today got them both up and running today with our spare winter wheels so we may manage some runs next week weather permitting. At this time of year we're not terribly adventurous, the routes are fairly regular and so may get some idea of any speed/effort difference over our current fairly conservative round tubed bikes.
It's a shame Patrick doesn't do a timed test route like David Arthur does with his review bikes....
Something to think about Patty? :-)
I think that time test routes can be used making sure that weather variables stay within a narrow window (so do it same morning) to have a general idea if a bike is relatively fast or slow compared to another one. To have more accurate results you would need an aero sensor.
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If anyone has any tips besides the ones given in this thread about seatpost slipping, I'd love to hear them. I've tried everything while waiting for replacement parts but the seatpost keeps slipping even with 9nm.
Thanks!
Skateboard grip tape on the wedge to seatpost face
Make sure you grease the bolt and sliding faces
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Jesse from the Nero Show said the new Factor One was only like 6 seconds faster than his Tavelo Arow over 90 minutes on the same loop and similar weather conditions. At an absurd 350 watts. That pretty much sums up why I don't do speed tests.
It's mostly for entertainment buddy :-)
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If you're feeling a bit unhappy about the weight you shouldn't be....
New Factor One forks are 730g and medium frame 1180.
(https://images.ctfassets.net/uyc32o2uod42/5h9pGidJ2PfuPPhCROvbBT/9cbeba6f4b207237e80dee2070573e10/Studio-one-onyx-black-DS180.png?w=1200&h=660&fm=avif)
i wish more chinese OEMs/brands would go into bayonet forks, i've seen a li-ning frame sililar to the new S5 but it's a china-only product unfortunately
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(https://i.ibb.co/vgy44vK/safd.jpg) - http://www.dragonbike.cn/product/55.html - If I'm not mistaken, these (Forever Bicycle - Zhonglu Co., Ltd.) are owners (52,87%) of the FACTOR brand
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i wish more chinese OEMs/brands would go into bayonet forks, i've seen a li-ning frame sililar to the new S5 but it's a china-only product unfortunately
I don't. A bayonet needs to be properly executed, otherwise it just makes everything worse
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I don't. A bayonet needs to be properly executed, otherwise it just makes everything worse
to be fair i'm not advocating for bayonets over all, but it's an interesting concept for CdA reduction an i wish it was executed more often
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Has anyone ordered in the last month? I paid on 12/11, but I still haven’t had any news. I checked in on 02/12 and Chris said the painting would be done the following weekend. Then I followed up again on 10/12 and was told they were hoping to finish it the next weekend as well.
Just wanted to see if this delay is only with my frame or if anyone else is in the same situation.
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Has anyone ordered in the last month? I paid on 12/11, but I still haven’t had any news. I checked in on 02/12 and Chris said the painting would be done the following weekend. Then I followed up again on 10/12 and was told they were hoping to finish it the next weekend as well.
Just wanted to see if this delay is only with my frame or if anyone else is in the same situation.
haven't placed an order yet, but i plan to in the next days, it will be a single custom color so i can update you with the timeline
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Le cadre aero dragon bike est beau mais la géométrie 😭🤣 n'est absolument pas cohérente avec le cadre.
C'est dommage de copié le argon 18 et un chrono pour faire une géométrie comme celle ci
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Le cadre aero dragon bike est beau mais la géométrie 😭🤣 n'est absolument pas cohérente avec le cadre.
C'est dommage de copié le argon 18 et un chrono pour faire une géométrie comme celle ci
First of all: Tout le monde ne parle pas français, alors évitez le stéréotype du « Français » et répondez en anglais.
Second of all: The geometry of the Dragon is very clearly a racing bike geometry following slight trends to have a higher stack to reach ratio. The wheel base is super short, as are the chain stays. You should really study up on current race bike geometries, how angles affect positions and hip angles and what constitutes a good/correct geometry. In this case the dragon is surprisingly good.
Third: If you want to try and complain about geometry, go look at the Ridley Noah Fast and see what your old-school mentality thinks of it. Even though it is extremely complex on paper to understand why the geometry is correct while looking so so so different from the "norm", once you sit on the bike and have it set up, you would understand.
Bonne chance pour tes études.
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First of all: Tout le monde ne parle pas français, alors évitez le stéréotype du « Français » et répondez en anglais.
Second of all: The geometry of the Dragon is very clearly a racing bike geometry following slight trends to have a higher stack to reach ratio. The wheel base is super short, as are the chain stays. You should really study up on current race bike geometries, how angles affect positions and hip angles and what constitutes a good/correct geometry. In this case the dragon is surprisingly good.
Third: If you want to try and complain about geometry, go look at the Ridley Noah Fast and see what your old-school mentality thinks of it. Even though it is extremely complex on paper to understand why the geometry is correct while looking so so so different from the "norm", once you sit on the bike and have it set up, you would understand.
Bonne chance pour tes études.
#micdrop
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Personally, I don't think we have enough disgruntled Frenchmen in here...
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First of all: Tout le monde ne parle pas français, alors évitez le stéréotype du « Français » et répondez en anglais.
Second of all: The geometry of the Dragon is very clearly a racing bike geometry following slight trends to have a higher stack to reach ratio. The wheel base is super short, as are the chain stays. You should really study up on current race bike geometries, how angles affect positions and hip angles and what constitutes a good/correct geometry. In this case the dragon is surprisingly good.
Third: If you want to try and complain about geometry, go look at the Ridley Noah Fast and see what your old-school mentality thinks of it. Even though it is extremely complex on paper to understand why the geometry is correct while looking so so so different from the "norm", once you sit on the bike and have it set up, you would understand.
Bonne chance pour tes études.
I would say the Dragon has pretty dated geometry though. The Ridley Noah Fast, the new Dare, and Factor One have progressive geometry, all with steep seat tubes, lower stack, long reach, and long wheelbase. The Dragon has none of these. Really short wheelbase and front center, and a fairly standard seat tube angle. Nothing about this is screaming new or progressive. It's like every other race bike out there.
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Zut alors!
We know the Dragon isn't the same bike, right? Just checking :D
Some more Factor One weights from WW...
Big fat aero tubes have a penalty regardless of cost.
Factor One, size 52, nimbus grey
Frame 1210g
Fork 714g
Seatpost 245g
Bar incl. spacer & parts 413
Steerer bolts headset bearings and thru axle 143g
Brother has had a couple of test rides on his old winter wheels as his XMCS wheels got 'lost' by Evri and Peter had sent him a replacement set. Thanks Peter!
Coming off a traditional round tube bike he got a bunch of PB's over a 30k route and we weren't going hard. Totally scientific test!
He's 110kg and we had no issue with seat post or anything.
Think we're going to need a longer stem/bars for him though.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=126736&t=1)
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Zut alors!
We know the Dragon isn't the same bike, right? Just checking :D
Some more Factor One weights from WW...
Big fat aero tubes have a penalty regardless of cost.
Factor One, size 52, nimbus grey
Frame 1210g
Fork 714g
Seatpost 245g
Bar incl. spacer & parts 413
Steerer bolts headset bearings and thru axle 143g
Brother has had a couple of test rides on his old winter wheels as his XMCS wheels got 'lost' by Evri and Peter had sent him a replacement set. Thanks Peter!
Coming off a traditional round tube bike he got a bunch of PB's over a 30k route and we weren't going hard. Totally scientific test!
He's 110kg and we had no issue with seat post or anything.
Think we're going to need a longer stem/bars for him though.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=126736&t=1)
;D
Wheels on this bike crack me up! ;D
How long for the replacement 65s? they the 26mm inners aren't they?
Great colour love green!
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(https://i.ibb.co/Z18hwb20/6d749f5b-e6cb-406e-9010-68859f83c0a5.png) Ah, ah, chat gpt has muscled your bike :)
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(https://i.ibb.co/Z18hwb20/6d749f5b-e6cb-406e-9010-68859f83c0a5.png) Ah, ah, chat gpt has muscled your bike :)
Wheels need to be deeper!
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Lolz, funny!!
Don't know what the exact wheels brother sorted out with Peter, but I know he asked for Clydesdale build in 65mm
Can't wait to see them, and see what this bike is like with some deep boys on it.
Any other owners got ride thoughts?
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recently ordered one. The final price in Italy, painted and with a 5-year warranty, is around €2,000. I bought this aerodynamic bike to use only in circuit races, in a “super-aero” setup (aero bottles, 65 mm wheels, aero helmet, aero chainring, Koegel pulley wheels for time trials). I can send photos in January when it’s ready and fully assembled. 8)
In the meantime, a whole new world opened up for me: I pushed ChatGPT and Gemini hard to figure out where the frame actually comes from. I knew it was Chinese, but I didn’t know from where. That’s how I discovered Veloplus and this forum. :)
Unfortunately, not great news for me. The seller claimed: “100% Toray 1100S” and 925 grams in size M. So I thought: hey, maybe it uses the same mold but is made in another factory with “higher-grade carbon.” But after further research, it seems that was just an illusion. Most likely he buys it from Veloplus, repaints it, and resells it.
Which is actually fine — custom paint, assembly, warranty, local support in Italy — all good. But lying so much about the carbon quality and the frame weight is not a good move. :(
When I pick up the frame, I’ll talk to him calmly about it. Then I'll forget this unpleasant story and focus on pushing this "beast" as hard as possible 8)
I'm curious to hear how it's gonna be, the actual weight of the frame and everything, maybe it is actually just the same mold and a higher carbon quality.
Plz post an update once you get the frame.
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I'm curious to hear how it's gonna be, the actual weight of the frame and everything, maybe it is actually just the same mold and a higher carbon quality.
Plz post an update once you get the frame.
Yes, of course. Unfortunately, the frame won't be ready before Christmas as I thought. I'll be able to share the weight, photos, and details around mid-January.
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Hello I've built up my bike! I'm running SRAM Rival AXS with a 52/39 and 10-36t combo. 60mm wheels from Serenade with Pillar 1420 steel spokes (1365g). For cockpit I went with 28cm Bikedoc bars and a Kalloy Uno stem for ez adjustability in the future. My frame has the chainstay clearance issue which is super annoying... The shifting is really quite bad in the higher gears since I can't adjust the B-gap close enough. The hanger also seems to be a little bent, so i will provide an update once I get the hanger aligned.
First impressions are pretty good! This is my first carbon frame coming from a round-tube Ti bike. I actually noticed that it was more comfortable over rail road tracks and potholes even though I am using narrower 29/30mm tires than the 32mm on my Ti bike. Stiffness -- I can't really judge, I am 58kg and my sprint is shite so it's definitely stiff enough for me. The front-end handles quite nicely on my 49cm size.
Aero wise, it's a bit too cold and windy currently to test it, but it's not dramatically faster than my Ti bike which is similar in position. I'll see how it feels when I race it during the season.
Building it up was not super easy. The rear caliper mount had paint sprayed over it, so I had to file it down a bit; the caliper is still visibly crooked but not rubbing -- I need to face it down in the shop. Front brake mount was fine. Upper headset cup was a bit tight for the bearing but it went in fine. There's quite a lot of plastic in my headset stack so I've had to adjust the preload a bit so far due to the parts creeping. Also, the bottle cage mounts are too close together. The bottles interfere! I need to move the downcage up a little bit. All fixable things except the DAMN CHAINSTAYS! Going to reach out to VeloBuild and see what they say about it.
Tl;dr: sexy bike, but beware if you're running SRAM...
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Hello I've built up my bike! I'm running SRAM Rival AXS with a 52/39 and 10-36t combo. 60mm wheels from Serenade with Pillar 1420 steel spokes (1365g). For cockpit I went with 28cm Bikedoc bars and a Kalloy Uno stem for ez adjustability in the future. My frame has the chainstay clearance issue which is super annoying... The shifting is really quite bad in the higher gears since I can't adjust the B-gap close enough. The hanger also seems to be a little bent, so i will provide an update once I get the hanger aligned.
First impressions are pretty good! This is my first carbon frame coming from a round-tube Ti bike. I actually noticed that it was more comfortable over rail road tracks and potholes even though I am using narrower 29/30mm tires than the 32mm on my Ti bike. Stiffness -- I can't really judge, I am 58kg and my sprint is shite so it's definitely stiff enough for me. The front-end handles quite nicely on my 49cm size.
Aero wise, it's a bit too cold and windy currently to test it, but it's not dramatically faster than my Ti bike which is similar in position. I'll see how it feels when I race it during the season.
Building it up was not super easy. The rear caliper mount had paint sprayed over it, so I had to file it down a bit; the caliper is still visibly crooked but not rubbing -- I need to face it down in the shop. Front brake mount was fine. Upper headset cup was a bit tight for the bearing but it went in fine. There's quite a lot of plastic in my headset stack so I've had to adjust the preload a bit so far due to the parts creeping. Also, the bottle cage mounts are too close together. The bottles interfere! I need to move the downcage up a little bit. All fixable things except the DAMN CHAINSTAYS! Going to reach out to VeloBuild and see what they say about it.
Tl;dr: sexy bike, but beware if you're running SRAM...
Did you buy it after they made the adjustment to the chainstay? It’s the same problem that Patrick Lino had, right?
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I am not sure which version of the frame I have. I placed my order Sep 20, I haven't seen any pic of the frame with a chainstay that looks super differen, it must be a very small revision? So three issues are likely plaguing my rear shifting: unable to set B-gap properly, bent hanger and non-OEM cassette and chain.
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Hello I've built up my bike! I'm running SRAM Rival AXS with a 52/39 and 10-36t combo. 60mm wheels from Serenade with Pillar 1420 steel spokes (1365g). For cockpit I went with 28cm Bikedoc bars and a Kalloy Uno stem for ez adjustability in the future. My frame has the chainstay clearance issue which is super annoying... The shifting is really quite bad in the higher gears since I can't adjust the B-gap close enough. The hanger also seems to be a little bent, so i will provide an update once I get the hanger aligned.
First impressions are pretty good! This is my first carbon frame coming from a round-tube Ti bike. I actually noticed that it was more comfortable over rail road tracks and potholes even though I am using narrower 29/30mm tires than the 32mm on my Ti bike. Stiffness -- I can't really judge, I am 58kg and my sprint is shite so it's definitely stiff enough for me. The front-end handles quite nicely on my 49cm size.
Aero wise, it's a bit too cold and windy currently to test it, but it's not dramatically faster than my Ti bike which is similar in position. I'll see how it feels when I race it during the season.
Building it up was not super easy. The rear caliper mount had paint sprayed over it, so I had to file it down a bit; the caliper is still visibly crooked but not rubbing -- I need to face it down in the shop. Front brake mount was fine. Upper headset cup was a bit tight for the bearing but it went in fine. There's quite a lot of plastic in my headset stack so I've had to adjust the preload a bit so far due to the parts creeping. Also, the bottle cage mounts are too close together. The bottles interfere! I need to move the downcage up a little bit. All fixable things except the DAMN CHAINSTAYS! Going to reach out to VeloBuild and see what they say about it.
Tl;dr: sexy bike, but beware if you're running SRAM...
Good looking build. Bonus points for being a Vancouverite lol
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Looking good WarmYogurt! Let's go BC!
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Hello I've built up my bike! I'm running SRAM Rival AXS with a 52/39 and 10-36t combo. 60mm wheels from Serenade with Pillar 1420 steel spokes (1365g). For cockpit I went with 28cm Bikedoc bars and a Kalloy Uno stem for ez adjustability in the future. My frame has the chainstay clearance issue which is super annoying... The shifting is really quite bad in the higher gears since I can't adjust the B-gap close enough. The hanger also seems to be a little bent, so i will provide an update once I get the hanger aligned.
First impressions are pretty good! This is my first carbon frame coming from a round-tube Ti bike. I actually noticed that it was more comfortable over rail road tracks and potholes even though I am using narrower 29/30mm tires than the 32mm on my Ti bike. Stiffness -- I can't really judge, I am 58kg and my sprint is shite so it's definitely stiff enough for me. The front-end handles quite nicely on my 49cm size.
Aero wise, it's a bit too cold and windy currently to test it, but it's not dramatically faster than my Ti bike which is similar in position. I'll see how it feels when I race it during the season.
Building it up was not super easy. The rear caliper mount had paint sprayed over it, so I had to file it down a bit; the caliper is still visibly crooked but not rubbing -- I need to face it down in the shop. Front brake mount was fine. Upper headset cup was a bit tight for the bearing but it went in fine. There's quite a lot of plastic in my headset stack so I've had to adjust the preload a bit so far due to the parts creeping. Also, the bottle cage mounts are too close together. The bottles interfere! I need to move the downcage up a little bit. All fixable things except the DAMN CHAINSTAYS! Going to reach out to VeloBuild and see what they say about it.
Tl;dr: sexy bike, but beware if you're running SRAM...
Do you happen to have a 3D model of your stern spacer? It looks very organic with a round stern.
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I ordered it from aprotobike.com along with my computer mount. It's the -17 Kalloy Uno transition spacer. I needed to run a split spacer (5mm) underneath it so the hoses could clear the VB ACR top cap.
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Has anyone tried building this up as a TT bike?
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Has anyone tried building this up as a TT bike?
There is one on the Velobuild review section.
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Got the bike finished. I'll upgrade stuff during the next months to get it down in weight and maybe add a bit of bling, so it's ready for any possible spring races. If I go for complete upgrade package I should be able to shave a bit more than 1 kg and get close to 7.0 kg.
For the RD I'm thinking of trying some asymmetric pulley wheels to get them closer to the cassette and see if I can get ZTTO (or maybe Goldix) cassette to work - maybe the people having issues running SRAM could try that as well.
Current wheel set is Nextie 45mm with 29mm internal width and 40mm max width. Continental GP TR 32mm measures 35mm and tyre and the rim clears with about 2-3mm clearance at the chain stay so probably around the widest one can fit without big risk of either rim or tyre hitting the frame at the chain stays.
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Nice builds folks!
Need some more ride reports ;D
We feel it's a fast bike, but we're only a sample size of two ;D
MTM Wove saddle too, very cool. Always been curious.
Warm Yoghurt... Love the stem adapter. Good work!
Brothers 65mm just turned up so will try and get some photos in the next day or two.
I'm still messing about with stems and bars, lol.
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Forgot to mention I installed a 52x40x8mm 45°/45° lower headset bearing (so 8mm instead of stock 7mm thick) and sanded a bit of the paint of both top of fork and bottom of head tube. That seems to have solved the problem with interference between fork and head tube (might not even have needed the sanding). For people ordering a (thicker) paint at those spots it might be worth sourcing a 8mm thick bearing from the start. The top headset bearing could probably also have used a 8mm thick bearing, but clearance there is easier to solve with thin spacers (as I did).
Along with the asymmetric pulley wheels I was also thinking of getting a UDH direct mount hanger. Those two things should in theory both help with improving shifting.
The Wove saddle was originally on my bike, but I was struggling a bit with getting it forward enough on my own bike so GF got it on the new bike - no problem getting it forward on the 368 with its seat post. Got it through a contact for very favourable price originally. It's quite good shape- and padding-wise for an aggressive forward-tilted position, just annoying with the limited ability to get it forward on frame sets with more standard seat tube angle (and no forward offset seat post).
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(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=127215&t=1)
Latest iteration.
65mm XMCS wheels
300mm wide gravel riser bars with 150mm stem.
Moved seatpost bottle down to close gaps and keep weight as low as possible.
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God, that centre of gravity seems like it would be a nightmare on steep descents.
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God, that centre of gravity seems like it would be a nightmare on steep descents.
Feels fine to me, lolz.
Probably spent too long on 80's and 90's MTBs - it immunises you to most things.
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Do you have link to those riser bars? Looks like they have a decent amount of rise?
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Do you have link to those riser bars? Looks like they have a decent amount of rise?
Here you go. 35mm rise I think
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ew2Zrsc
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Another brand selling the Aerotrace as their bike. This time it is a spanish brand https://triomfbikes.com/products/triomf-roader. Same frame same weight but much more expensive. To be honest i dont like people trying that is selling stuff way overprice like western brands have always been doing.
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I have noticed that in all finished builds, the saddle seems to float over the seat tube. I would order one right away, but I couldn't stand looking at a seatpost and saddle like that.
So I was wondering if it would be possible to come up with a mounting system where the saddle rails would sit lower and cover some of that gap between the seatpost and the saddle.
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I have noticed that in all finished builds, the saddle seems to float over the seat tube. I would order one right away, but I couldn't stand looking at a seatpost and saddle like that.
So I was wondering if it would be possible to come up with a mounting system where the saddle rails would sit lower and cover some of that gap between the seatpost and the saddle.
Asked VB if they offered this seatpost, but this design didn’t make it to production I assume.
Thinking of sawing the top of the seatpost into shape. Am going to pay for that with my health?
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Wasn't that ai generated crap?
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uffff she rips! Went out for a short shake out spin this afternoon and the AeroTrace felt reeeallly good. Some of it has to be the new shoes effect of course, but it genuinely felt fast. Stiff in all the right places, responsive, fast on the flats, climbed fine. Really pleased so far.
Seatpost: At the recommended 8Nm it was easily slipping when pushing down. At 8.5 I got it to hold and could sit on it and ride in the alley but when I went over the first bumps on the road it came down again. I tightened it on the side of the road with a multi tool to what felt tight enough, and it held fine for the rest of the time. Will try to see what torque that is as I need to bring it down a tad.
Frame and SRAM RD: The RD movement was blocked by the frame as those with the first version of the frame have reported but after adjusting the B screw enough to clear it, shifting has been totally ok. I can probably make some more effort to fine tune it as well including the FD as I just thew it on without dialing it in and it's also fine.
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Yes, of course. Unfortunately, the frame won't be ready before Christmas as I thought. I'll be able to share the weight, photos, and details around mid-January.
Any news on your frame?
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Hi together,
building up this frame for a friend in Germany, 178cm tall. We ordered size 49 in chameleon white.
Spec of the build will be:
1by Wheeltop Gravel Groupset (1300grams)
Bitranz Carbon Wheels 65mm (32mm ext, carbon spokes, 1320 grams for the pair)
Leese Crankset DUB with 54T Chainring (around 500 grams)
Goldix 12spd, 10-46 cassette at 284grams
ZTTO chain 254 grams not shortened
Handlebar we ordered the integrated version of velobuild,
Saddle is a schmolke replica at 60 gram, Onrii Pedals 200 grams, Bottlecages 17 gram per piece
GP5000s in 28mm width (230 gram per piece)
Ridenow tubes 28g per piece
Hoping overall to archive well under 8kgs.
Best greetings from Germany
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Hi, can someone tell me what all the colors look like at Velobuild? I can't find any pictures of the colors on their Velobuild website.
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Hi, can someone tell me what all the colors look like at Velobuild? I can't find any pictures of the colors on their Velobuild website.
Just go onto their Custom Paint tab and look through the frames, of cause not every frame is shown in every color, but you get a quite good impression.
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Yes, thank you, good idea. You have a white frame. Could you send a photo where the color is more visible?
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uffff she rips! Went out for a short shake out spin this afternoon and the AeroTrace felt reeeallly good. Some of it has to be the new shoes effect of course, but it genuinely felt fast. Stiff in all the right places, responsive, fast on the flats, climbed fine. Really pleased so far.
Seatpost: At the recommended 8Nm it was easily slipping when pushing down. At 8.5 I got it to hold and could sit on it and ride in the alley but when I went over the first bumps on the road it came down again. I tightened it on the side of the road with a multi tool to what felt tight enough, and it held fine for the rest of the time. Will try to see what torque that is as I need to bring it down a tad.
Frame and SRAM RD: The RD movement was blocked by the frame as those with the first version of the frame have reported but after adjusting the B screw enough to clear it, shifting has been totally ok. I can probably make some more effort to fine tune it as well including the FD as I just thew it on without dialing it in and it's also fine.
What color is this frame?
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Got the bike finished. I'll upgrade stuff during the next months to get it down in weight and maybe add a bit of bling, so it's ready for any possible spring races. If I go for complete upgrade package I should be able to shave a bit more than 1 kg and get close to 7.0 kg.
For the RD I'm thinking of trying some asymmetric pulley wheels to get them closer to the cassette and see if I can get ZTTO (or maybe Goldix) cassette to work - maybe the people having issues running SRAM could try that as well.
Current wheel set is Nextie 45mm with 29mm internal width and 40mm max width. Continental GP TR 32mm measures 35mm and tyre and the rim clears with about 2-3mm clearance at the chain stay so probably around the widest one can fit without big risk of either rim or tyre hitting the frame at the chain stays.
Nice build congrats on getting it finished !
Quick questions if you don’t mind:
1. What handlebar/cockpit are you running right now?
2. Where do you think your biggest weight savings will come from (cassette/chainch/saddle, etc.)?
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What color is this frame?
I'm not sure. I just sent a reference photo (link below) and they got it pretty bang on. Light purple metallic-ish is how I would describe it.
https://www.rvinyl.com/products/rwraps-gloss-metallic-light-purple-bicycle-wraps
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took out the new build for a proper ride for the first time, just under 130km (yes risky for a new build) and it performed flawlessly. time will tell on the differences for this frame compared to other VB frames, but so far so great.
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took out the new build for a proper ride for the first time, just under 130km (yes risky for a new build) and it performed flawlessly. time will tell on the differences for this frame compared to other VB frames, but so far so great.
Any thoughts on the ride of it?
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Any thoughts on the ride of it?
Felt stiff where it needed to be, yet comfortable. Absorbed road vibrations well. Did not feel slugish at all. Handlebars felt super solid, the stiffest VB bars I've ridden so far.
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Think I've just seen another rename on David Arthur's latest video, Top 40 bikes for 2026, 41 minute in called the Atom 6 Aeron ;)
https://www.atom6cycling.be/en/fiets/road/aeron/
(https://www.atom6cycling.be/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/ATOM6-aeron-1536x960.png.webp)
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Think I've just seen another rename on David Arthur's latest video, Top 40 bikes for 2026, 41 minute in called the Atom 6 Aeron ;)
https://www.atom6cycling.be/en/fiets/road/aeron/
(https://www.atom6cycling.be/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/ATOM6-aeron-1536x960.png.webp)
OMG 4.4k euros for the 105 di2 with aluminium wheels.
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Fantastic isn't it, mine has already tripled in value 8)
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Fantastic isn't it, mine has already tripled in value 8)
I wonder how quotations change for companies that buy white labels from Chinese OEMs in larger quantities. Anyone interested in building a bike brand ? 😂
Atom 6 sits in Belgium and sells:
Tantan ttx38
Ican A40
And now also the vbr 368
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Nice build congrats on getting it finished !
Quick questions if you don’t mind:
1. What handlebar/cockpit are you running right now?
2. Where do you think your biggest weight savings will come from (cassette/chainch/saddle, etc.)?
LightCarbon HBR17 handlebar.
Weight savings will be a mix of things. Biggest single one wheel set (~400g but keep depth/width/aero). Then there's ~200g in crank set, ~170g in the pedals, ~100-150g in cassette if I can get a ZTTO or Goldix to work. Then smaller stuff like fork steerer expander, skipping Di2 battery holder, skipping seat post grommet.
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Hello I've built up my bike! I'm running SRAM Rival AXS with a 52/39 and 10-36t combo. 60mm wheels from Serenade with Pillar 1420 steel spokes (1365g). For cockpit I went with 28cm Bikedoc bars and a Kalloy Uno stem for ez adjustability in the future. My frame has the chainstay clearance issue which is super annoying... The shifting is really quite bad in the higher gears since I can't adjust the B-gap close enough. The hanger also seems to be a little bent, so i will provide an update once I get the hanger aligned.
First impressions are pretty good! This is my first carbon frame coming from a round-tube Ti bike. I actually noticed that it was more comfortable over rail road tracks and potholes even though I am using narrower 29/30mm tires than the 32mm on my Ti bike. Stiffness -- I can't really judge, I am 58kg and my sprint is shite so it's definitely stiff enough for me. The front-end handles quite nicely on my 49cm size.
Aero wise, it's a bit too cold and windy currently to test it, but it's not dramatically faster than my Ti bike which is similar in position. I'll see how it feels when I race it during the season.
Building it up was not super easy. The rear caliper mount had paint sprayed over it, so I had to file it down a bit; the caliper is still visibly crooked but not rubbing -- I need to face it down in the shop. Front brake mount was fine. Upper headset cup was a bit tight for the bearing but it went in fine. There's quite a lot of plastic in my headset stack so I've had to adjust the preload a bit so far due to the parts creeping. Also, the bottle cage mounts are too close together. The bottles interfere! I need to move the downcage up a little bit. All fixable things except the DAMN CHAINSTAYS! Going to reach out to VeloBuild and see what they say about it.
Tl;dr: sexy bike, but beware if you're running SRAM...
I assume you're still quite happy with how it rides?
Does anyone else have feedback on size 460 or 490?
My GF says the size 460 is quite a bit different to her old size 48 Cervélo S5 rim brake, but really hard to say how much might be the geometry itself and how much is all the other stuff that's different (stem from 90mm to 130mm, handlebar width from 30cm to 36cm (thanks, UCI), tyres from 27mm to 35mm measured).
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(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=127768&t=1)
Very blustery day today.... You've really gotta keep your wits about you on these :o ;D
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Re: the Atom 6. Curious to know how much people think it should cost.
Going off either a 105di2 or rival axs build with 50mm wheels, it looks like it would be ~5100euros.
If you were to source it yourself, your parts cost would be like 3200-3500 euros + shipping? So if you got unlucky, it could be as high as 4000 euros without even getting to labor for assembly. I don't know how many of these bikes are assembled, but curious to hear how much folks think a company like Atom 6 should charge for their effort. The pricing certainly feels high to me unless that includes VAT, which I dont think it does.
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Yup! VB for sure
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Question
I'm thinking about converting my 368 into some sort of hybrid TT bike. We have local-ish TT races in the summer, and entry is free. So why not ;D
Any thoughts about the cockpits? Clip-on aero bars? Riser kit? Not sure what would be most effective and practical.
Thanks
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Question
I'm thinking about converting my 368 into some sort of hybrid TT bike. We have local-ish TT races in the summer, and entry is free. So why not ;D
Any thoughts about the cockpits? Clip-on aero bars? Riser kit? Not sure what would be most effective and practical.
Thanks
The most comfortable will be the fastest 8) Holding position for ten minutes is easy ish but a long stint will be horrible in the wrong set up.
No doubt you've got a regular stem and heavy alloy bars kicking about so pop them on and keep an eye out for some nice second hand adjustable Profile bars you can try. You'll probably be surprised how high you need the supports/cups.
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Question
I'm thinking about converting my 368 into some sort of hybrid TT bike. We have local-ish TT races in the summer, and entry is free. So why not ;D
Any thoughts about the cockpits? Clip-on aero bars? Riser kit? Not sure what would be most effective and practical.
Thanks
I would go with sp cycle bar like this:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010222381770.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.33.28c7342dwB6KWI&algo_pvid=28ba21a8-25ca-42cb-b034-a21403128aee&algo_exp_id=28ba21a8-25ca-42cb-b034-a21403128aee-32&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2212%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%21464.94%21464.94%21%21%21464.94%21464.94%21%40211b6c1917692844429683710e6823%2112000051582745480%21sea%21PL%21190358434%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A23e924f4%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=7c9m7TmV0Y8S&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005010222381770%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
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Got the bike finished. I'll upgrade stuff during the next months to get it down in weight and maybe add a bit of bling, so it's ready for any possible spring races. If I go for complete upgrade package I should be able to shave a bit more than 1 kg and get close to 7.0 kg.
For the RD I'm thinking of trying some asymmetric pulley wheels to get them closer to the cassette and see if I can get ZTTO (or maybe Goldix) cassette to work - maybe the people having issues running SRAM could try that as well.
Current wheel set is Nextie 45mm with 29mm internal width and 40mm max width. Continental GP TR 32mm measures 35mm and tyre and the rim clears with about 2-3mm clearance at the chain stay so probably around the widest one can fit without big risk of either rim or tyre hitting the frame at the chain stays.
Is that pink ice crack colour on tour bike?
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Is that pink ice crack colour on tour bike?
Yes, "ice break transparent pink" is the name I believe.
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Hi everyone,
I picked up the frame today; it was delivered already assembled.
The seller told me it uses a custom, higher-grade carbon layup compared to the standard Velobuild version, although I have to say I remain a bit skeptical about that claim.
The weight of the complete framekit, exactly as shown in the photos, is about 3100 grams (L/550 size, dog not included :)).
By mid-week I should be able to share photos of the fully built bike and the final weight, once it’s assembled with Ultegra, etc.
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Hi everyone,
I picked up the frame today; it was delivered already assembled.
The seller told me it uses a custom, higher-grade carbon layup compared to the standard Velobuild version, although I have to say I remain a bit skeptical about that claim.
The weight of the complete framekit, exactly as shown in the photos, is about 3100 grams (L/550 size, dog not included :)).
By mid-week I should be able to share photos of the fully built bike and the final weight, once it’s assembled with Ultegra, etc.
Yeah, I guess that was to be expected, having a lighter version with a higher grade carbon layup would have been almost too good to be true, sly Italian company stuff...
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This was my size 58 from VB
Frame with no hardware 1532
Uncut fork 511
Seatpost with clamp 338
Axles 78
Think the bars/stem were 370g but I didn't use them so don't really remember
Let's say 200g for udh hanger, a couple of headset bearings and spacers.
Total 3019g I think, give or take.
Didn't weight seat post clamp but the axles should make up for the discrepancy :)
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Question
I'm thinking about converting my 368 into some sort of hybrid TT bike. We have local-ish TT races in the summer, and entry is free. So why not ;D
Any thoughts about the cockpits? Clip-on aero bars? Riser kit? Not sure what would be most effective and practical.
Thanks
If you want to keep a normal stem+drop bars and use clip on aero bars you could get one that clips onto the stem although I don't know if those work with just any stem. In any case reach wise you normally want your elbows on the pads and if you clip aero bars onto the handlebars I'm fairly certain the pads will be too far forward unless you use a much shorter stem.
You could replace the current cockpit and get something like the winow base bar + aero bar combo. I think it works with any normal stem although they have some specific stems for that as well. It's fairly expensive but has good adjustability as far as I can tell.
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A small update on my quest for shaving some weight off the bike.
I got a UDH direct mount hanger and also mounted a set of Sugino Capacity Booster pulley wheels I had already. Angling the UDH hanger quite far back I could get the top pulley quite close to the cassette without the RD hitting the chain stay when in the 11T cog. This meant that the ZTTO SLR Gen 3 11-32 cassette actually seems to work fine now. I'll probably get the all steel version in 11-30 for a bit more durability, but it should still be maybe ~120g of weight saving compared to the Ultegra 11-30 cassette.
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Hi, I am building it up right now… but I have one problem or I need a solution: the leese 1by spindle seems very long, the one by chainring up front is really far away from the chainstay and when I am in the biggest cog, the chain is really bending inwards and there is not a nice chain line… sadly the powermeter spider (Xcadey) won’t fit if I use less spacers… anyone an idea? Best regards.
Bastian
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Hey guys, does anyone have a photo of the saddle clamp assembly they could share please? I was trying to loosen mine to get the saddle further forward on the rails and over did it, the whole thing came off and fell on the floor. It's now a 6 piece jigsaw puzzle and I can't work out how it should go back together. Thanks!
BTW I have the bike built and have been out for a ride - TL;DR it's great. Will write up more soon.
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By the way whats the max virtual STA that you can get with the saddle clamped on the seatpost forward and saddle on the middle of the rails?
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By the way whats the max virtual STA that you can get with the saddle clamped on the seatpost forward and saddle on the middle of the rails?
76 degrees as far as I could work out :)
Playing around with tool &tube storage options.
The TT style box from AliX for under a tenner seems best option but you have to mod/file/add new fixing strap.
It's only a V1 attempt ;)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=128122&t=1)
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Hey guys, does anyone have a photo of the saddle clamp assembly they could share please? I was trying to loosen mine to get the saddle further forward on the rails and over did it, the whole thing came off and fell on the floor. It's now a 6 piece jigsaw puzzle and I can't work out how it should go back together. Thanks!
BTW I have the bike built and have been out for a ride - TL;DR it's great. Will write up more soon.
Stand down, I worked it out. Managed to grab a still from Patrick's video which showed enough detail. I'm not sure how long the little rubber piece will stay on or what it's for, but the saddle is rammed forward as far as looks safe, and is rock solid.
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Stand down, I worked it out. Managed to grab a still from Patrick's video which showed enough detail. I'm not sure how long the little rubber piece will stay on or what it's for, but the saddle is rammed forward as far as looks safe, and is rock solid.
Speaking of the clamp. I think this may be what is at the heart of the slipping seatpost issues.
On a few instances I've observed that the clamp is compressed and almost stuck together, requiring lots of torque to loosen, yet it's completely free in the frame and not applying pressure to the seat post to the point where it can move up and down freely. So the extra torque I've been applying to hold the seatpost in place seems to mainly be absorbed by the clamp and isn't getting to the point where it's pressing against the post and frame yet. I believe there is a new seatpost and wedge design in the works as well.
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Hi, I’ve just finished assembling the bike. I still haven’t ridden it yet. It looks great, and it’s fairly heavy, even though I managed to shave off some weight, for example with lighter bar tape, a lighter saddle, and a Dura-Ace cassette.
Unfortunately it’s a little short in reach. The saddle setback is the same as on my previous bike, but I’m still about 1 cm shorter in overall length. That’s actually acceptable, since the previous bike was slightly too long anyway.
The bike is built 100% for racing. It’s equipped with an Ultegra drivetrain with 54/11 gearing, a Dura-Ace cassette, and Kogel oversized pulley wheels. Tires are Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed TLR. Wheel setup is 60 mm front and 65 mm rear, with a 26 mm front tire and a 28 mm rear tire
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For your information, Velobuild plans to mix some t1000 to make the frame lighter in the future.
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For your information, Velobuild plans to mix some t1000 to make the frame lighter in the future.
Now they tell us ::) ;D
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Hi, I’ve just finished assembling the bike. I still haven’t ridden it yet. It looks great, and it’s fairly heavy, even though I managed to shave off some weight, for example with lighter bar tape, a lighter saddle, and a Dura-Ace cassette.
Unfortunately it’s a little short in reach. The saddle setback is the same as on my previous bike, but I’m still about 1 cm shorter in overall length. That’s actually acceptable, since the previous bike was slightly too long anyway.
The bike is built 100% for racing. It’s equipped with an Ultegra drivetrain with 54/11 gearing, a Dura-Ace cassette, and Kogel oversized pulley wheels. Tires are Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed TLR. Wheel setup is 60 mm front and 65 mm rear, with a 26 mm front tire and a 28 mm rear tire
Wow the best looking build i have currently seen congrats. What was the previous bike you had and size?
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For your information, Velobuild plans to mix some t1000 to make the frame lighter in the future.
Is it official or rumors? I would´nt mind paying more for a better carbon. Also will they fix the slipping seatpost issue?
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Is it official or rumors? I would´nt mind paying more for a better carbon. Also will they fix the slipping seatpost issue?
Ours don't slip buddy, and brother is 110kgs
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Is it official or rumors? I would´nt mind paying more for a better carbon. Also will they fix the slipping seatpost issue?
Screenshot attached.
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Unfortunately it’s a little short in reach. The saddle setback is the same as on my previous bike, but I’m still about 1 cm shorter in overall length. That’s actually acceptable, since the previous bike was slightly too long anyway.
Hey another member of slamming the saddle backwards, reporting for duty!
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The saddle setback relative to the bottom bracket is now exactly the same as on my previous bike. That’s the most important reference for me, because keeping it identical helps avoid unnecessary changes in muscle tension.
Regarding reach: my previous setup had a traditional handlebar with 130 mm reach (center to center). On this bike I chose a 110 mm wing.
If I had chosen the 120 mm wing, the overall reach would have been practically identical to my previous setup.
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Wow the best looking build i have currently seen congrats. What was the previous bike you had and size?
My previous bike was built by the same Italian artisan. Later on, I found out that the frame is actually the modern version of the Speeder Cycling SCR R49D.
Regarding fit, I just realized I made a mistake: my previous setup used a traditional handlebar with a 130 mm reach (center to center). On this build I chose a 110 mm wing. If I had chosen the 120 mm wing instead, the overall reach would have been practically identical to my previous setup
.
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Hey another member of slamming the saddle backwards, reporting for duty!
Funny how we're all different. If I have the saddle set back at all I feel like I'm pushing my legs out in front of me and have no power. The further forward the saddle, the more I feel I'm pushing down i.e. the same direction as gravity and it feels so much more natural. Up until now, I would have done a full 20 minute climb (the longest I have near me) all out of the saddle to avoid the horrible power loss of being seated. As you can imagine, it wasn't sustainable. I'm looking forward to some seated climbing now ... on my heavy-ass aero bike ;D
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Saddle fully forward for me.
Probably settled on 130mm stem and 360mm bars after much experimenting.
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Now they tell us ::) ;D
Tbf, they couldn't know that the geometry would be recived so well and that so many "brands" would pick the OEM up right away. They deserve the success for doing their own, unique thing.
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Tbf, they couldn't know that the geometry would be recived so well and that so many "brands" would pick the OEM up right away. They deserve the success for doing their own, unique thing.
Agreed! Not moaning :-) Very much enjoying the experience!
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76 degrees as far as I could work out :)
Playing around with tool &tube storage options.
The TT style box from AliX for under a tenner seems best option but you have to mod/file/add new fixing strap.
It's only a V1 attempt ;)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=128122&t=1)
Love DIY elements on a bike :D
what did you do to extend the fixing strap? I have the exact same box
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Speaking of the clamp. I think this may be what is at the heart of the slipping seatpost issues.
On a few instances I've observed that the clamp is compressed and almost stuck together, requiring lots of torque to loosen, yet it's completely free in the frame and not applying pressure to the seat post to the point where it can move up and down freely. So the extra torque I've been applying to hold the seatpost in place seems to mainly be absorbed by the clamp and isn't getting to the point where it's pressing against the post and frame yet. I believe there is a new seatpost and wedge design in the works as well.
Where did you pick up on the news?
I'd love to get a new seatpost, if it doesn't look like a TT seatpost.
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Hi, I’ve just finished assembling the bike. I still haven’t ridden it yet. It looks great, and it’s fairly heavy, even though I managed to shave off some weight, for example with lighter bar tape, a lighter saddle, and a Dura-Ace cassette.
Unfortunately it’s a little short in reach. The saddle setback is the same as on my previous bike, but I’m still about 1 cm shorter in overall length. That’s actually acceptable, since the previous bike was slightly too long anyway.
The bike is built 100% for racing. It’s equipped with an Ultegra drivetrain with 54/11 gearing, a Dura-Ace cassette, and Kogel oversized pulley wheels. Tires are Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed TLR. Wheel setup is 60 mm front and 65 mm rear, with a 26 mm front tire and a 28 mm rear tire
Beautiful bike. Did you paint yellow logos or did you apply decals ?
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Better late than never, I have the bike built, dialled in and have had it out for a couple of rides - one group one solo. Looking great, apart from the wheels - I have some Light Bicycle Turbo Pro 78s on the way.
Build
According to my mechanic, the build wasn't too bad just a few niggles:
Internal cable routing was tight as a gnat's snatch. He reckons it wasn't really designed for mechanical transmission even though I specifically asked Chris prior to ordering. See the photos, he's done a great job and it looks very neat, no issues with steering but he said to be careful over rotating it e.g. when putting it in the car etc.
On the rear stay there is no hose lug (if that's the word - the bit inside the exit hole which stops the cable sheath slipping into the hole) so he had to fudge it. Works fine though.
I also had seatpost slippage issues despite the grip coating, but tightening it to 'hope I don't break this' Nm sorted it fine.
No issues with RD clearence etc, shifts smoothly through the full range of 24 gears.
Ride
Overall lovely. I'm not a peak power guy, but no obvious flex. Some of the roads near me are God-awful, and it's noticeable smoother over them than the TCR was. It had alloy bars, I don't know if that contributes.
Geometry is a big improvement - getting the seat forward, shorter cranks and higher seatpost due to that, results in improved power output for the perceived effort. It's also very comfy being more forward in position - there is more weight on the hands certainly but puppy-hoods and drops are both nice to ride.
I have a fairly flat 30km loop I do for testing. The plan was to ride it at the same power as previous efforts and see a small but significant increase in average speed. However, firstly I forgot to re-calibrate my pedals for the short cranks so reported power is about 9% too high. Second, even though I've been off the pace training wise, I couldn't keep the power down - it just loves to go fast! So I was 285W average rather than 260W on my other test rides. Third, it was cold and windy so aero wasn't optimal at all. After all that... I was about 2kph slower than my best on the TCR ;D
Overall, the test was a bust, but the bike was lovely. More power for less perceived effort, and came off it feeling fresh unlike before where I would be fighting the bike and finish with a sore lower back and burning glutes.
One note, the narrower bars take a bit of getting used to out of the saddle, had a few minor wobbles due to the reduced leverage.
Also the seat post doesn't allow me to attach my existing tool bag - will need to come up with another solution. I asked Chris if the rear bottle cage mount from the TT bike could be used (he had previously said the seatposts were the same) but he said it would need riveted - there are no holes in the road version by default. Not sure if they could be added when ordering?
Weight, I have no idea. I'm 80kg, didn't feel much different from the TCR built up.
Looks wise, I think it's great but the UD Matte finish is not perfect. There are clear joins where the carbon sheets overlap most noticeable around the head tube. It also has sections which look dusty or smudged. I'm sure a clear coat paint would solve this but it doesn't bother me.
Parts
Shimano 105 R7100 (2x12) stripped from the 'donor' 2024 Giant TCR
HB-050 380/110 integrated bar and stem
New PraxisWorks T47 BB
New Shimano R7100 160mm 50/34 crankset
Money
1750 for the TCR from which I kept the groupset and wheels only
-300 for the TCR fame (hopefully)
500 for the AeroTrace frame, stem, bars and seatpost
115 for new cranks
200 for the build including hoses and BB
2265 total
I doubt you'd find a bike this good off the shelf for that, even considering that buying a whole bike then using just the groupset and wheels (and then only temporarily) is a horribly inefficient way to build a bike!
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Love DIY elements on a bike :D
what did you do to extend the fixing strap? I have the exact same box
Ta :)
Cut the original fixing off the box
File the back of the box so it sits snugly on the seat tube
Had a thin strip of aluminium and just bent/formed it round the tool box and seat tube, then wrapped it in a bit of duct tape ghetto style. Had to put a couple of bolts through the aluminium/too box to stop it moving.
It'll do until I've got the headspace for something neater:-)
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Mchaggis
Good looking bike.... Are you going to put some deeper wheels on her :-X ;D
I think you're right though, the bike pushes along pretty well and is comfy doing it. The forward seat position is a benefit I think.
I run mine mechanical and it was a bit of an arse threading cables but did get a full length of outer from shifter to mech in the end.
If you get a good solution for tool storage do pop it up, it's something I'm fighting with too!
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Mchaggis
Good looking bike.... Are you going to put some deeper wheels on her :-X ;D
Yes mate, first line of my post ;D 78mm Carbon Rims, on their way from Light Bicycle - initially 2-3 weeks then another 2 for Chinese NY so still at least a month, just in time for the good weather...
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Yes mate, first line of my post ;D 78mm Carbon Rims, on their way from Light Bicycle - initially 2-3 weeks then another 2 for Chinese NY so still at least a month, just in time for the good weather...
Doh!
Look forward to seeing them :)
I can barely remember the good weather :'( The amount of rain is crazy at the moment.
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Doh!
Look forward to seeing them :)
I can barely remember the good weather :'( The amount of rain is crazy at the moment.
Tell me about it, it's been desperate. I was going to keep this bike for the good weather and get the old one off the turbo for the Winter, but what's the point of having a nice bike for 3 weeks of the year? Instead I invested in some good wet weather gear, and make sure to give it a good wash after every ride. When you feel prepared for the weather, it's fine once you get going.
NGL though, I'm looking forward to those warm Summer evening rides 8)
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Yup, we were out in it today. Wetter than an otters pocket!
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Has anyone the CAD Data of the spacers? Chris said their engineer is on holidays and he could provide the file only to the end of the month… maybe one having the file could slide into my dms?
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Hi together,
building up this frame for a friend in Germany, 178cm tall. We ordered size 49 in chameleon white.
Spec of the build will be:
1by Wheeltop Gravel Groupset (1300grams)
Bitranz Carbon Wheels 65mm (32mm ext, carbon spokes, 1320 grams for the pair)
Leese Crankset DUB with 54T Chainring (around 500 grams)
Goldix 12spd, 10-46 cassette at 284grams
ZTTO chain 254 grams not shortened
Handlebar we ordered the integrated version of velobuild,
Saddle is a schmolke replica at 60 gram, Onrii Pedals 200 grams, Bottlecages 17 gram per piece
GP5000s in 28mm width (230 gram per piece)
Ridenow tubes 28g per piece
Hoping overall to archive well under 8kgs.
Best greetings from Germany
Hey finally assembled everything. The brake mounts maybe need some more facing and maybe in the future a 3mm offset chainring is needed for the right crankshaft assembly (a lot of spacers now and chainring is mounted on the wrong side of the powermeter.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/CZpr8nGK/9b15dff3-76c8-499e-9048-06d5eaafff43.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZpr8nGK)
Does anyone know exactly which bearings are needed for the headset?
I was checking the measurements to cut the fork and installed the red bearing on the bottom, but Chris from Velobuild said this one goes on the top... however, when trying to remove it I had difficulty and even opened the sealed part of the bearing, and when reassembling it, I noticed what seems to be a small amount of slack, which has me a little worried.
Therefore, I would like to buy a new set of bearings as a spare, in case any problems arise during the final assembly next week. I have already requested the part from Chris, but I haven't received a response yet... and now, with the Chinese New Year holiday, I don't expect to receive a response anytime soon.
Could someone please share the exact specifications of the bearings so I can order the correct set?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/CZpr8nGK/9b15dff3-76c8-499e-9048-06d5eaafff43.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZpr8nGK)
Does anyone know exactly which bearings are needed for the headset?
I was checking the measurements to cut the fork and installed the red bearing on the bottom, but Chris from Velobuild said this one goes on the top... however, when trying to remove it I had difficulty and even opened the sealed part of the bearing, and when reassembling it, I noticed what seems to be a small amount of slack, which has me a little worried.
Therefore, I would like to buy a new set of bearings as a spare, in case any problems arise during the final assembly next week. I have already requested the part from Chris, but I haven't received a response yet... and now, with the Chinese New Year holiday, I don't expect to receive a response anytime soon.
Could someone please share the exact specifications of the bearings so I can order the correct set?
BB T47 internal like attached
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BB T47 internal like attached
Thanks, but the bearing that I want to know is for the headset.
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Thanks, but the bearing that I want to know is for the headset.
The bottom one is 52x40x7mm 45°/45°, but I would recommend getting an 8mm thick one instead to be sure the fork and frame clears each other. I believe the top one is same dimensions - top one is easier to correct with spacers if you have clearance issues, but would probably still recommend an 8mm thick one on top as well.
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Question
I'm thinking about converting my 368 into some sort of hybrid TT bike. We have local-ish TT races in the summer, and entry is free. So why not ;D
Any thoughts about the cockpits? Clip-on aero bars? Riser kit? Not sure what would be most effective and practical.
Thanks
I am planning on doing that as well.
This might fit well I think? Also it's no more than 220 USD, including computer mount.
https://www.carbonbikedoc.com/bikedoc-hb26-carbon-handlebar-road-bicycle-handlebar-triathlon-handle-rest-tt-handlebar-racing-bike-carbon-handle-400420440mm
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I am planning on doing that as well.
This might fit well I think? Also it's no more than 220 USD, including computer mount.
https://www.carbonbikedoc.com/bikedoc-hb26-carbon-handlebar-road-bicycle-handlebar-triathlon-handle-rest-tt-handlebar-racing-bike-carbon-handle-400420440mm
I'm not sure if they know what are they selling, as the rest bars are mounted backwards on most photos ;D
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I'm not sure if they know what are they selling, as the rest bars are mounted backwards on most photos ;D
Hilarious incompetence.
My mind went there:
https://youtu.be/SK362RLHXGY
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I'm not sure if they know what are they selling, as the rest bars are mounted backwards on most photos ;D
Well at least they mostly have great reviews on their handlebars. Think there's a big thread on weightweenies.com on narrow handlbars and BikeDoc generally seems fine. Don't know about those particular TT bars though.
I wrote Velobuild too and apparently they sell their TT handlebars for 140 USD. But that's the one with bullhorns for their TT frame..
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On another note, how is build quality on Velobuild frames today?
There's a review by Hambini where he roasts another Velobuild but that was 3 years ago. Can anyone say if their frames have improved since then?
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On another note, how is build quality on Velobuild frames today?
There's a review by Hambini where he roasts another Velobuild but that was 3 years ago. Can anyone say if their frames have improved since then?
Built two 368's and no complaints. Everything went together as it should, they are going strong and a pleasure to ride.
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If anyone were to make an (un)educated guess, how aero do you think the VB-R-368 is?
Is it ignorant to hope it might be almost as aero as a Cervelo S5 just because there's so much carbon on it?
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If anyone were to make an (un)educated guess, how aero do you think the VB-R-368 is?
Is it ignorant to hope it might be almost as aero as a Cervelo S5 just because there's so much carbon on it?
Maybe someone like @toxin that is really into bike design could tell. I would like to see any test even if it is cfd from Velobuild.
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Nobody can really tell you which of these bikes will be faster from pictures, but you can look at some individual features and judge those. Really the VB doesn't make any disastrous mistakes. The fork crown and lower headtube are a bit odd. The head tube trailing edge is a bit narrow, so that might be a bit unstable at high yaw, the flat transition from top of bb to seat tube isn't the best, but with the mess that the airflow is in that area, it's probably irrelevant. The seat tube and post are a bit wide. The leading edge on the lower section of the fork is flat. The head tube is very narrow, so that's its biggest positive. Can't really say how fast it is when it's all put together.
The advantage big brands have is that they already have libraries of the optimised tube shapes and lots of time and money to spend on optimising every tiny detail (a real pain in the ass). Velobuild really can't afford to do that so they just throw deep tube shapes at the problem, but that's not really as good.
I'd lean towards the S5 simply because of the gap in resources and it tests well (though my suspicion is that the wind tunnel is more flattering to it than the real world), but I wouldn't expect the VB to be a parachute either.
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Nobody can really tell you which of these bikes will be faster from pictures, but you can look at some individual features and judge those. Really the VB doesn't make any disastrous mistakes. The fork crown and lower headtube are a bit odd. The head tube trailing edge is a bit narrow, so that might be a bit unstable at high yaw, the flat transition from top of bb to seat tube isn't the best, but with the mess that the airflow is in that area, it's probably irrelevant. The seat tube and post are a bit wide. The leading edge on the lower section of the fork is flat. The head tube is very narrow, so that's its biggest positive. Can't really say how fast it is when it's all put together.
The advantage big brands have is that they already have libraries of the optimised tube shapes and lots of time and money to spend on optimising every tiny detail (a real pain in the ass). Velobuild really can't afford to do that so they just throw deep tube shapes at the problem, but that's not really as good.
I'd lean towards the S5 simply because of the gap in resources and it tests well (though my suspicion is that the wind tunnel is more flattering to it than the real world), but I wouldn't expect the VB to be a parachute either.
Whoa thorough analysis, thank you.
Wouldn’t be surprised if the S5 is faster, just hoping the Velobuild is up there somewhere.
Maybe like an older gen Madone, if that is not too much to hope for? :D
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Whoa thorough analysis, thank you.
Wouldn’t be surprised if the S5 is faster, just hoping the Velobuild is up there somewhere.
Maybe like an older gen Madone, if that is not too much to hope for? :D
I think the question we all have isnt if it is faster than s5 or newer full on aero bikes, instead what i ask myself is if it is faster than Gen6 Madone for example . Its also worth mentioning that i think the majority of gains will come from the "modern" geometry because it enables you to sustain more aero position and dont lose as much power.
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Hey everyone,
my Aerotrace is now fully built. I think the bike looks great. I built it up with 82mm Elite wheels 30mm in the back an 28 front, a 54T chainring. Shimano 105 mechanical groupset, one-by-one. I hope 366 ftp and 84 kg are enough to make it fast :) Frame size 58. I don't think the seat clamp is the best design. The bearing quality isn't the best, but that's not a big deal. You have to consider the whole package, and for the total price of €1700 for the build, you can't complain. The bike is lighter than my Specialized Allez Sprint, and hopefully faster too ;)I will be riding with Favero Assioma dou pedals. If anyone has a really good, suitable holder for a Garmin and the Velobuild handlebars, please get in touch.
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Here you go....
Tobi that looks sweet 8) The frame is made for those deep rims. How did you find the build with the mechanical 105?
1x would be fun, but I'm about 50W short of you with too many hills to risk it for my only bike.
For the Garmin mount, Velo do this: https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/cycle-computer-holder Chris included one free due to the delays, but it's not expensive and assuming being a small part shipping wouldn't be horrible.
It attaches to the rivets on the underside of the Velo integrated bar which it looks like you have - same as mine. Does the job and has a GoPro type mount on the underside, for a light etc.
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Hey,
Thank you! I think mechanical shifting is great, since I only have to shift the rear derailleur and not the front. I enjoy riding with mechanical shifting; my Allez has a Di2 105. I live in northern Germany, where there aren't any mountains ;) I already have the mount you suggested from AliExpress. However, the Garmin sticks up high and isn't a perfect fit for me. I might shorten the fork to lower the front end. Thanks for your feedback.
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Here you go....
How’s the bike / wheels feeling in crosswinds?
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Whoa thorough analysis, thank you.
Wouldn’t be surprised if the S5 is faster, just hoping the Velobuild is up there somewhere.
Maybe like an older gen Madone, if that is not too much to hope for? :D
As I said, It won't be a parachute. If you equipped them with the same parts, at worst, you'd probably be looking at the VB a few watts slower. The biggest potential gain of this bike is that you can get your saddle very far forward, which can enable big aero gains in rider position.
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As I said, It won't be a parachute. If you equipped them with the same parts, at worst, you'd probably be looking at the VB a few watts slower. The biggest potential gain of this bike is that you can get your saddle very far forward, which can enable big aero gains in rider position.
That and the moderate reach should make it particularly well suited as an hybrid TT bike with clip-ons, no?
Would also be interesting to hear if there are any other budget chinese road bike frames you’d recommend looking at if aerodynamics is a priority.
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If anyone were to make an (un)educated guess, how aero do you think the VB-R-368 is?
Is it ignorant to hope it might be almost as aero as a Cervelo S5 just because there's so much carbon on it?
I would not expect it to be comfortable, and the stack is very low. I would run the widest tyres the frame can take as a starting point, and I think the bike can be fast IF you fit on it. That's a huge if. The geometry is extremely aggressive and doesn't fit most.
The worst bike you can buy is a harsh frame that doesn't even fit you.
I say this as someone who bought harsh frames that didn't fit me ..
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I would not expect it to be comfortable, and the stack is very low. I would run the widest tyres the frame can take as a starting point, and I think the bike can be fast IF you fit on it. That's a huge if. The geometry is extremely aggressive and doesn't fit most.
The worst bike you can buy is a harsh frame that doesn't even fit you.
I say this as someone who bought harsh frames that didn't fit me ..
I’m going for the size 58, stack is 591 mm and reach is 424 mm. Reach is longer than I’m used to but I can always swap down to 90/100mm stem in case it gets too extreme.
I want the bike to be uncomfortable but not unbearable. Planning to do max 3-4h rides on it, usually shorter. So believe it will be ok!
And plan to put XMCS wheels with 30mm tyre front and 32 mm rear, hopefully I can ride packed gravel with it too that way.
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Imho it's not a harsh frame :)
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I am really curious to see how the frame ends up when they add T1000 to the mix. Maybe they will decrease the weight a bit but it will also be interesting to see if the frame feels different from the current T800
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Hi guys, I’m assembling the bike today and have a few questions.
What’s the correct way to do this? There isn't a C-ring at the bottom, right? And for the top, is it just the one large C-ring, or are there two?
Also, does the front caliper use M4 or M5 bolts? I have M5s, but I’m having trouble installing them. There might be some paint in the threads, has anyone else dealt with this?
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I would not expect it to be comfortable, and the stack is very low. I would run the widest tyres the frame can take as a starting point, and I think the bike can be fast IF you fit on it. That's a huge if. The geometry is extremely aggressive and doesn't fit most.
The worst bike you can buy is a harsh frame that doesn't even fit you.
I say this as someone who bought harsh frames that didn't fit me ..
As pistonbroke already said and perhaps counterintuitively, it's not a harsh ride at all. Subjectively, more dampening than the TCR I migrated from. If anything my concern is that it's slow because it's dampening too much, but I need a lot more miles, preferably not in Winter and also some experimentation with tyre pressures, to confirm.
It's also very comfortable *for me* but you're quite right it may not fit most or even many.
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W1. Just the one large thick c ring at the top to allow the cables past, and think there are some thin c shims included to make sure the top cap clears the frame.
Mchaggis... Feel the same way. Comfortable and well damped. Going to try putting my 1000g wheels on it to see what difference it makes. They are only 30 odd mm deep compared to the 65's so weight Vs potential aero gains.
Regards geometry/fit.... I am certainly no expert, but currently ride the 368 (set up long with steepest seat angle and 160mm cranks) and an FL1 (which I guess is pretty standard road geometry, 170mm cranks), and while they feel and ride differently the comfort, confidence and handling are all good. Just different.
Would absolutely encourage people to take the brave pill and try something new.
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Hey finally assembled everything. The brake mounts maybe need some more facing and maybe in the future a 3mm offset chainring is needed for the right crankshaft assembly (a lot of spacers now and chainring is mounted on the wrong side of the powermeter.
Sweet, how much does it weight fully built?
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That and the moderate reach should make it particularly well suited as an hybrid TT bike with clip-ons, no?
Would also be interesting to hear if there are any other budget chinese road bike frames you’d recommend looking at if aerodynamics is a priority.
Should be.
honestly, nothing standout really comes to mind
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That and the moderate reach should make it particularly well suited as an hybrid TT bike with clip-ons, no?
Would also be interesting to hear if there are any other budget chinese road bike frames you’d recommend looking at if aerodynamics is a priority.
Not toxin, but I would say the TanTan TT-X65 and TT-X67 both look decent (I would personally think slightly less aero than VB368, but most likely lighter). I also saw a new one from Mcelo on AliExpress that looks interesting:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011603478146.html
All of these have more old school/traditional geometry, though, and all seem to have seat posts with setback so you can't get the saddle as far forward.
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Not toxin, but I would say the TanTan TT-X65 and TT-X67 both look decent (I would personally think slightly less aero than VB368, but most likely lighter). I also saw a new one from Mcelo on AliExpress that looks interesting:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011603478146.html
All of these have more old school/traditional geometry, though, and all seem to have seat posts with setback so you can't get the saddle as far forward.
Yeah I was checking them out too. But so many have complained on build quality on TanTans so not sure. Also the price is so low that it makes me suspicious lol.
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Regards geometry/fit.... I am certainly no expert, but currently ride the 368 (set up long with steepest seat angle and 160mm cranks)
Bike Geometry friend!
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5e/ee/65/5eee65939f48cd34f00d3eb0b59722a8.jpg)
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I wanted to share my riding impressions.
Overall, I’m very happy with the bike — both in terms of my position on the saddle and the sensations it gives while riding.
It’s stiff but not uncomfortable.
Maybe it feels just slightly less punchy during low-speed accelerations or in the first few seconds, but once it gets up to speed you really feel how reactive and fast it is.
Last week I did a 10-minute test at 345 watts average and managed to hold a little over 43 km/h with stable wind conditions and a temperature of 10°C.
During that test I also tried to stay in the lowest position possible. I consider myself fairly aerodynamic, but at 186 cm and 85 kg I still catch some wind.
I was also running what are probably the fastest tires in the world — Vittoria Corsa Pro Speed TLR — but unfortunately two days later in a race, after hitting a fairly hard pothole, the sidewall cracked and my race was over ;D I knew they were delicate and that I’d probably puncture sooner or later, but I didn’t expect them to fail so easily.
Overall, the speed test was very good.
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Nobody can really tell you which of these bikes will be faster from pictures, but you can look at some individual features and judge those. Really the VB doesn't make any disastrous mistakes. The fork crown and lower headtube are a bit odd. The head tube trailing edge is a bit narrow, so that might be a bit unstable at high yaw, the flat transition from top of bb to seat tube isn't the best, but with the mess that the airflow is in that area, it's probably irrelevant. The seat tube and post are a bit wide. The leading edge on the lower section of the fork is flat. The head tube is very narrow, so that's its biggest positive. Can't really say how fast it is when it's all put together.
The advantage big brands have is that they already have libraries of the optimised tube shapes and lots of time and money to spend on optimising every tiny detail (a real pain in the ass). Velobuild really can't afford to do that so they just throw deep tube shapes at the problem, but that's not really as good.
I'd lean towards the S5 simply because of the gap in resources and it tests well (though my suspicion is that the wind tunnel is more flattering to it than the real world), but I wouldn't expect the VB to be a parachute either.
I asked Hambini how aero it might be as well and he replied this:
” I'd say it was not far off a carbonspeed or winspace T1600.
The key thing to do here is to make sure you get a decent set of bars and wheels, otherwise the frame aero will make little difference.”
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Hi all,
after following this thread since a few months, I guess it's time for my first post:
Having owned a Workswell WCB-062 MTB for 10 years now, and building a LC LCR-017D last year, I decided now's time for a chinese aero bike. Shopping around a bit there doesn't seem to be a lot of choice in the budget category (<700€), except for the VBR-368, or some TanTan models.
As the TanTan quality is known to be a bit hit-and-miss, I decided to go for the 368, mostly based on looks, as there really is no rational reason to buy this bike because it is just so damn heavy and not aero tested. But I want a bike I take a look at and think it's sick over the fastest possible bike that looks like any other, so I still went ahead.
Below are a few of the experiences and problems I hade while ordering and building the bike:
Order and Delivery
I Ordered the frame on 23.01.2026, with some Serenade 60mm deep wheels to go along. Communication before the order was good, although it was not as perfect as with LightCarbon last year. Ordering a custom design was no problem at all, with just two questions back about specifics and a confirmation that they can do it.
After ordering, the painting process took 14 days before shipping (with the frame currently being in stock).
The carrier they used for shipping was quick, but had some weird tracking that didn't update for some time. On 20.2.2026 (28 days later), the frame arrived in a big cardboard box with a large tear on the side [box_tear.jpg]. Luckily everything inside was very well packaged and completely fine.
Building experience
Building this bike was not an easy task, as there is definitely a lot to go/do wrong for less experienced mechanics or people with a limited toolset. Heres a list of things you have to watch out for when building up this frame (or at least my sample):
Paint quality
The paintjob on this frame only costs 70$ for 4 different colors, which is reflected in the quality: There's paint overspray on basically any surface that shouldn't have paint on it.
- The headset area on the top and bottom had some paint on it, but nothing that couldn't be fixed by careful swinging of a sharp blade [headset_overspray.jpg].
- The rim of the T47 bottom bracket has a noticable paint lip around it. This doesn't interfere with the installed BB, but if not removed you may chip your paint with the installation tool [bb_overspray.jpg].
- The rear brake mounts had extreme amounts of overspray on them and need to be faced before mounting anything to them [rear_brake_overspray.jpg]. The paint on the top also just chips off when you touch it on an edge.
- The rear dropouts are also extremely bad, most of the paint in there has already flaked off, even though I had freshly unwrapped the frame at the time of taking the image [dropout_paint.jpg].
- The paint overall seems to be extremely soft, as it already contains a lot of small scratches and swirls, even directly after unpacking the frame.
- The paint is visibly scratched next to some holes in the frame and handlebar that have been opened up by some rotary tool.
- Worst of all: My design included a little german flag, but they messed up the order of the colors and I now have a Belgian bike :'(
Small parts
The quality of accessories to the frame seems to be much worse than that of my LightCarbon, or even my old Workswell frame. With those, all the cable guides (outlets(?)) were fitting securely in the frame and didn't rattle. Unfortunately with this frame the DI2 outlet below the front detailleur mount was very loose and couldn't be tightened enough to stop rattling, as the frame just wasn't thick enought at that point to be clamped by the mechanism. I had to fix this problem by putting a few layers of ducttape on the inside part of the clamp, to slightly shim the two halves apart [cable_outlet.jpg].
The supplied spacers and headset cover are also a bit disappointing. The headset cover is not injection moulded like the rest of the parts, but 3D printed. On it's own this isn't too bad, but then having it sanded slightly gives it some grey color that doesn't fit the spacers. I will 3D print my own cover and spacers here to match their colors.
The spacers are also the most annoying ones I have ever installed, as they fall apart from what seems like air movement as long as they are not squeezed yet.
The hole in the bottom of the handlebars to register their angle to the spacers was also much too small on one side of my pair, and had to be opened up with a little knife to be able to fit the spacer in there. Unfortunately it's very hard to see this on camera [handlebar_hole.jpg].
Also definitely ask for some extra spacers with your order, as mine came with 2.5cm of spacers, which should barely be enough for many riders on such a relatively aggressive frame (1cm is the minimum you need use with the default headset cover).
Threaded stuff
BB
Overall, it seems Velobuild doesn't really know what they're doing with regards to anything threaded. The T47 BB threads are extremely rough, to the point it easily shows up on my phone camera [bb_threads.jpg], and also seem to be super dirty for some reason. Unfortunately I don't have a 47mm big thread cutter, so it will have to stay that way. Even if I had one it wouldn't be of much use, as the threads are so exceptionally loose, the BB has a lot of wiggle even when screwed all the way in, but not yet touching the shell's outer surface.
I'm also certain that either the threads on both sides are angularly misaligned, or the flanges of the shell are misaligned, as the side of the thread insert peeks out of the carbon shell at the back of one side, but not on the front [bb_threads.jpg]. On the other side, the insert doesn't show at all.
Overall the bottom bracket shell quality of the frame seems to be super bad, the worst of any chinese frame I own. The threads on the left side were so bad, I tried to find the start of the threads for 2 minutes before finally being able to thread the BB in.
Fork
Another important threaded part of the frame, and equally bad to the BB were the front brake mounts. For some reason those were so full of stuff (paint overspray? carbon dust from manufacturing? idk) I couldn't thread the screws in more that 2 or 3 mm on both mounts. Sure, recutting those M5 threads is a relatively easy task, but not something I expect to have to do to build my bike... [fork_threads.jpg] (Pictures from here in second post)
General confusion
Maybe I havent built enough modern bikes yet to know if some of those are some agreed to standards, but I was also very confused by the lack of any hints on how things go together. The frame includes two different headset bearings, one 7mm and one 8mm tall, but makes no mention which goes where [headset_bearings.jpg]. For future reference: The thicker headset bearing goes on top. Mine had a red seal Not a huge problem to have, but as it would be so easy to mitigate by including a single sheet of paper with the frame, I'm still marking it up.
There also is some small aluminium part included, the purpose of which seems unclear to me [weird_pard.jpg]. Going by the hole spacing it fits on the bottom of the downtube right before the BB area, but why should one put it there and what does it do? Pls help
Somehow, not only me but also VeloBuild themselves seem to be a bit confused on which parts are needed to build up the frame, as my fork already had the camfer to fit the bottom headset bearing molded in, but the accessories bag still included the little ring to put on the fork [fork_ring.jpg]. I'm not sure why that is included if it isn't needed, as it lead to a bit of confusion on my side when building the bike.
Seatpost
Having read the troubles on the earlier pages of getting the seatpost not to slip, I preemptively greased the bolt and sliding surfaces of the clamping mechanism, and put carbon paste on the seatpost. This seems to work very nicely, as I haven't noticed any slipping yet (although I only tried to get it to slip indoors, as I'm waiting for the nice weather next week before taking it outside). My seatpost also fits pretty snugly in the frame, without any of the problems previous posters had. The inside of the frame looks a bit rough/unfinished where the clamp goes in, but it didn't hinder anything from going together.
When cutting the seatpost to length however I had a pretty alarming issue. Finishing the bottom of the cut, a 5mm wide section of fibers just delaminated from the seatpost, and started pulling away from the rest [seatpost_delamination.jpg]. Pulling it away further was also very easy. It felt like I could unwrap the whole seatpost if I kept going, so I broke the fibers by kinking them the other way.
Having worked with carbon a for a while, this is not anything I expect from anything well adhered. Normally you should pull your muscles trying to get a millimeter of that stuff to come from the rest, so It seems to me that my post is somehow faulty. Looking at it from the bottom, I couldn't see any signs of weak compression or voids so I'm not sure what happened there.
Overall this doesn't really inspire confidence in the rest of the frame, but as I seem to be an idiot I'll still go ahead and ride it to find out.
Weights
Frame (Size 49): 1464g
Fork (uncut): 526g
Handlebars (38x100): 375g
Seatpost (uncut): 342g
Conclusion
Overall I am disappointed with the quality of this frame, especially compared to my LCR-017D which was the same price (admittedly without a complex paintjob). The strucutural quality of the frame seems fine to me for now, but there's just a hoarde of little things wrong with the frame that need to be fixed before building it.
Had I known all of these things before I maybe would not have bought the frame, although I'm still a sucker for the looks of it, so who knows.
I still built the bike up after fixing all the problems, and can confirm the new SRAM Force E1 rear derailleur does not hit the inside of the frame anymore.
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Here is the rest of the pictures
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Certainly seems like a mixed bag on the QC front :-X
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Hi all,
after following this thread since a few months, I guess it's time for my first post:
Having owned a Workswell WCB-062 MTB for 10 years now, and building a LC LCR-017D last year, I decided now's time for a chinese aero bike. Shopping around a bit there doesn't seem to be a lot of choice in the budget category (<700€), except for the VBR-368, or some TanTan models.
As the TanTan quality is known to be a bit hit-and-miss, I decided to go for the 368, mostly based on looks, as there really is no rational reason to buy this bike because it is just so damn heavy and not aero tested. But I want a bike I take a look at and think it's sick over the fastest possible bike that looks like any other, so I still went ahead.
Below are a few of the experiences and problems I hade while ordering and building the bike:
Order and Delivery
I Ordered the frame on 23.01.2026, with some Serenade 60mm deep wheels to go along. Communication before the order was good, although it was not as perfect as with LightCarbon last year. Ordering a custom design was no problem at all, with just two questions back about specifics and a confirmation that they can do it.
After ordering, the painting process took 14 days before shipping (with the frame currently being in stock).
The carrier they used for shipping was quick, but had some weird tracking that didn't update for some time. On 20.2.2026 (28 days later), the frame arrived in a big cardboard box with a large tear on the side [box_tear.jpg]. Luckily everything inside was very well packaged and completely fine.
Building experience
Building this bike was not an easy task, as there is definitely a lot to go/do wrong for less experienced mechanics or people with a limited toolset. Heres a list of things you have to watch out for when building up this frame (or at least my sample):
Paint quality
The paintjob on this frame only costs 70$ for 4 different colors, which is reflected in the quality: There's paint overspray on basically any surface that shouldn't have paint on it.
- The headset area on the top and bottom had some paint on it, but nothing that couldn't be fixed by careful swinging of a sharp blade [headset_overspray.jpg].
- The rim of the T47 bottom bracket has a noticable paint lip around it. This doesn't interfere with the installed BB, but if not removed you may chip your paint with the installation tool [bb_overspray.jpg].
- The rear brake mounts had extreme amounts of overspray on them and need to be faced before mounting anything to them [rear_brake_overspray.jpg]. The paint on the top also just chips off when you touch it on an edge.
- The rear dropouts are also extremely bad, most of the paint in there has already flaked off, even though I had freshly unwrapped the frame at the time of taking the image [dropout_paint.jpg].
- The paint overall seems to be extremely soft, as it already contains a lot of small scratches and swirls, even directly after unpacking the frame.
- The paint is visibly scratched next to some holes in the frame and handlebar that have been opened up by some rotary tool.
- Worst of all: My design included a little german flag, but they messed up the order of the colors and I now have a Belgian bike :'(
Small parts
The quality of accessories to the frame seems to be much worse than that of my LightCarbon, or even my old Workswell frame. With those, all the cable guides (outlets(?)) were fitting securely in the frame and didn't rattle. Unfortunately with this frame the DI2 outlet below the front detailleur mount was very loose and couldn't be tightened enough to stop rattling, as the frame just wasn't thick enought at that point to be clamped by the mechanism. I had to fix this problem by putting a few layers of ducttape on the inside part of the clamp, to slightly shim the two halves apart [cable_outlet.jpg].
The supplied spacers and headset cover are also a bit disappointing. The headset cover is not injection moulded like the rest of the parts, but 3D printed. On it's own this isn't too bad, but then having it sanded slightly gives it some grey color that doesn't fit the spacers. I will 3D print my own cover and spacers here to match their colors.
The spacers are also the most annoying ones I have ever installed, as they fall apart from what seems like air movement as long as they are not squeezed yet.
The hole in the bottom of the handlebars to register their angle to the spacers was also much too small on one side of my pair, and had to be opened up with a little knife to be able to fit the spacer in there. Unfortunately it's very hard to see this on camera [handlebar_hole.jpg].
Also definitely ask for some extra spacers with your order, as mine came with 2.5cm of spacers, which should barely be enough for many riders on such a relatively aggressive frame (1cm is the minimum you need use with the default headset cover).
Threaded stuff
BB
Overall, it seems Velobuild doesn't really know what they're doing with regards to anything threaded. The T47 BB threads are extremely rough, to the point it easily shows up on my phone camera [bb_threads.jpg], and also seem to be super dirty for some reason. Unfortunately I don't have a 47mm big thread cutter, so it will have to stay that way. Even if I had one it wouldn't be of much use, as the threads are so exceptionally loose, the BB has a lot of wiggle even when screwed all the way in, but not yet touching the shell's outer surface.
I'm also certain that either the threads on both sides are angularly misaligned, or the flanges of the shell are misaligned, as the side of the thread insert peeks out of the carbon shell at the back of one side, but not on the front [bb_threads.jpg]. On the other side, the insert doesn't show at all.
Overall the bottom bracket shell quality of the frame seems to be super bad, the worst of any chinese frame I own. The threads on the left side were so bad, I tried to find the start of the threads for 2 minutes before finally being able to thread the BB in.
Fork
Another important threaded part of the frame, and equally bad to the BB were the front brake mounts. For some reason those were so full of stuff (paint overspray? carbon dust from manufacturing? idk) I couldn't thread the screws in more that 2 or 3 mm on both mounts. Sure, recutting those M5 threads is a relatively easy task, but not something I expect to have to do to build my bike... [fork_threads.jpg] (Pictures from here in second post)
General confusion
Maybe I havent built enough modern bikes yet to know if some of those are some agreed to standards, but I was also very confused by the lack of any hints on how things go together. The frame includes two different headset bearings, one 7mm and one 8mm tall, but makes no mention which goes where [headset_bearings.jpg]. For future reference: The thicker headset bearing goes on top. Mine had a red seal Not a huge problem to have, but as it would be so easy to mitigate by including a single sheet of paper with the frame, I'm still marking it up.
There also is some small aluminium part included, the purpose of which seems unclear to me [weird_pard.jpg]. Going by the hole spacing it fits on the bottom of the downtube right before the BB area, but why should one put it there and what does it do? Pls help
Somehow, not only me but also VeloBuild themselves seem to be a bit confused on which parts are needed to build up the frame, as my fork already had the camfer to fit the bottom headset bearing molded in, but the accessories bag still included the little ring to put on the fork [fork_ring.jpg]. I'm not sure why that is included if it isn't needed, as it lead to a bit of confusion on my side when building the bike.
Seatpost
Having read the troubles on the earlier pages of getting the seatpost not to slip, I preemptively greased the bolt and sliding surfaces of the clamping mechanism, and put carbon paste on the seatpost. This seems to work very nicely, as I haven't noticed any slipping yet (although I only tried to get it to slip indoors, as I'm waiting for the nice weather next week before taking it outside). My seatpost also fits pretty snugly in the frame, without any of the problems previous posters had. The inside of the frame looks a bit rough/unfinished where the clamp goes in, but it didn't hinder anything from going together.
When cutting the seatpost to length however I had a pretty alarming issue. Finishing the bottom of the cut, a 5mm wide section of fibers just delaminated from the seatpost, and started pulling away from the rest [seatpost_delamination.jpg]. Pulling it away further was also very easy. It felt like I could unwrap the whole seatpost if I kept going, so I broke the fibers by kinking them the other way.
Having worked with carbon a for a while, this is not anything I expect from anything well adhered. Normally you should pull your muscles trying to get a millimeter of that stuff to come from the rest, so It seems to me that my post is somehow faulty. Looking at it from the bottom, I couldn't see any signs of weak compression or voids so I'm not sure what happened there.
Overall this doesn't really inspire confidence in the rest of the frame, but as I seem to be an idiot I'll still go ahead and ride it to find out.
Weights
Frame (Size 49): 1464g
Fork (uncut): 526g
Handlebars (38x100): 375g
Seatpost (uncut): 342g
Conclusion
Overall I am disappointed with the quality of this frame, especially compared to my LCR-017D which was the same price (admittedly without a complex paintjob). The strucutural quality of the frame seems fine to me for now, but there's just a hoarde of little things wrong with the frame that need to be fixed before building it.
Had I known all of these things before I maybe would not have bought the frame, although I'm still a sucker for the looks of it, so who knows.
I still built the bike up after fixing all the problems, and can confirm the new SRAM Force E1 rear derailleur does not hit the inside of the frame anymore.
I also finished assembling mine this week, and it wasn't an easy task, mainly because there are no instructions on where the parts go. I'm still not sure if the head tube is assembled correctly, because there is backlash, as shown in the attached video, and I don't think that's normal. Has anyone else had this problem
?
So far, what I understand about assembling the headset is that only the black bearing goes in the bottom part, without the fork ring, and the red bearing and C ring go on top, followed by the spacers. Is this really correct, guys?
(https://i.postimg.cc/s1Mkmr4L/Whats-App-Image-2026-02-22-at-15-41-46.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1Mkmr4L)
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Assembly is correct yes. Have you tightened the top cap enough to elaminate the play? Or is the fork still too long and you don’t get bearing compression at all? Or you tightened the stem onto the fork before you tightened down the top cap?
Order: assembly everything, every bolt is loose
Tighten Compression plug, then tighten the top cap. Only then the stem or handlebar.
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I had a similar problem when building the bike. Check the distance between your expander plug and the top cap. The top cap is very thick and easily collides with the expander preventing you from tightening the headset.
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Assembly is correct yes. Have you tightened the top cap enough to elaminate the play? Or is the fork still too long and you don’t get bearing compression at all? Or you tightened the stem onto the fork before you tightened down the top cap?
Order: assembly everything, every bolt is loose
Tighten Compression plug, then tighten the top cap. Only then the stem or handlebar.
I had a similar problem when building the bike. Check the distance between your expander plug and the top cap. The top cap is very thick and easily collides with the expander preventing you from tightening the headset.
Thanks, everyone. I reassembled it and kept the clearance, based on the images below. Do you think I need to cut a little more so that the expander fits further into the fork?
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Yes. It's gotta have a few mm between top cap and fork compression doohickey to tighten things down.
I know there are varying degrees of QC on these (and many other Chinertown) frames, but am I alone in thinking that's the reason we're able to buy them for a fraction of the cost of the big brands :-X
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Hello
I think you have to accept some compromises in quality. You should keep in mind that the price isn't comparable to an S-Works SL8. Furthermore, in my opinion, you should have some experience if you're going to take on a project like this—building up an inexpensive frame. Honestly, I think the weight is perfectly fine, and it's not a problem if it's a bit heavier. I think the frame is okay for the money. However, there are definitely some things that need adjusting or improving. That's something to keep in mind.
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Yes. It's gotta have a few mm between top cap and fork compression doohickey to tighten things down.
I know there are varying degrees of QC on these (and many other Chinertown) frames, but am I alone in thinking that's the reason we're able to buy them for a fraction of the cost of the big brands :-X
I installed an additional 7.5 mm spacer below (I had to cut it slightly to allow the hoses to pass), and now it feels better, with minimal slack (video attached).
Next, I will cut the fork, but to do that it will be necessary to disconnect the hose and bleed the system again.
At the moment, I feel the handlebar slightly pulling to the right side. It may be because there is a bit more hose length on that side, which could be creating some tension and influencing the steering.
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Hi everyone
Does anyone here have a mount for a rear light that attaches to the massive ::) seatpost?
Unfortunately, the rubber straps aren't long enough to mount a suitable rear light. Thanks! ;D
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Hi Tobi, I use a Cateye Orb on the rear. The rubber stretches enough to fit just fine even with the monster seatpost. Unfortunately, no such luck on the front - I need to find a suitable small day light which can clip to the GoPro style mount under the computer.
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Hi, Does anyone knows if there is any update regarding the T1000 carbon fibre mix in the new frames that was said few pages back?
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I've not heard anything but am curious. I'll drop them a mail today and report back...
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Hi, Does anyone knows if there is any update regarding the T1000 carbon fibre mix in the new frames that was said few pages back?
I emailed him a few days ago and apparently they won't start production until april and shipment first at the end of May!
Was going to wait for the updated version but went ahead and ordered one now instead, will ship in two weeks. 150 g heavier yes but then I will have two more months of riding :D
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Had decided for the Mondince FM126 earlier but the ability to ride a more forward position on this bike made me change my mind.
Happy to have found a bargain used full groupset too: Dura Ace Di2 11sp for 400 EUR.
And aero drop bars with attachable TT clip-ons from a Lapierre Aircode DRS for 200 EUR.
78/65mm wheel combo from XMCS coming up :D
Will update with photos once I've put it together. Thanks for the help deciding!
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Look forward to seeing the build!
Is 150g enough of a saving I wonder... Was hoping for more like 300g :-\
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Its not only the weight savings but also if they add them in some areas it could make the bike feel better or worse becasue t1000 is stronger than t800
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Very happy with the way it rides. No complaints about that :)
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Had decided for the Mondince FM126 earlier but the ability to ride a more forward position on this bike made me change my mind.
Happy to have found a bargain used full groupset too: Dura Ace Di2 11sp for 400 EUR.
And aero drop bars with attachable TT clip-ons from a Lapierre Aircode DRS for 200 EUR.
78/65mm wheel combo from XMCS coming up :D
Will update with photos once I've put it together. Thanks for the help deciding!
Did you order the wheels with the 16/18H or the 20/20H lightweight option?
I’m really curious to see this combination on this frame, because it’s the same setup I’m planning to install, also with 5 mm spokes.
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Did you order the wheels with the 16/18H or the 20/20H lightweight option?
I’m really curious to see this combination on this frame, because it’s the same setup I’m planning to install, also with 5 mm spokes.
No!
Should I have? Upon Peter’s recommendation I chose the following setup:
D78CU-33/D65CU-33 T800 rims 24/24H
R280 hubs 24/24H 36T rachets TPI steel bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver
Sapim CX-Ray spokes
Sapim self-securing aluminum nipples
I don’t know a thing about wheels. Extra spokes mostly unnecessary? My weight is 85+ kg.
I haven’t paid yet so I could check if it’s still possible to change.
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I'm looking to get 58/44 chainrings for the bike.
I might possibly need a wedge adapter for the front derailleur.
But does anyone know if they should fit the frame without touching the chainstay?
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No!
Should I have? Upon Peter’s recommendation I chose the following setup:
D78CU-33/D65CU-33 T800 rims 24/24H
R280 hubs 24/24H 36T rachets TPI steel bearings center lock straight pull for 100*12/142*12 with Shimano HG driver
Sapim CX-Ray spokes
Sapim self-securing aluminum nipples
I don’t know a thing about wheels. Extra spokes mostly unnecessary? My weight is 85+ kg.
I haven’t paid yet so I could check if it’s still possible to change.
So if you want to reduce a bit of weight, I’m thinking of ordering the T1100 65/78 with 16/18H hubs. But I know there are also the lightweight hubs for 20/20H, so that could be another option.
I'm looking to get 58/44 chainrings for the bike.
I might possibly need a wedge adapter for the front derailleur.
But does anyone know if they should fit the frame without touching the chainstay?
Are you Pogačar or what? :D
I’m currently running 54/40 and so far it’s working well. But I’m thinking about installing a chain guide to avoid chain drops.
Have any recommendations?
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So if you want to reduce a bit of weight, I’m thinking of ordering the T1100 65/78 with 16/18H hubs. But I know there are also the lightweight hubs for 20/20H, so that could be another option.
Are you Pogačar or what? :D
No but found a good deal. Also I will be having TT clip-ons and it looks nice 8)
I’m currently running 54/40 and so far it’s working well. But I’m thinking about installing a chain guide to avoid chain drops.
Have any recommendations?
No recommendations unfortunately.
But if you had to guess, do you think 58t should easily fit without rubbing the chainstay?
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Hi all
A quick note to share if you didn't know already that we have improved the design of the chainstay on the AeroTrace to ensure all rear derailleur types clear the frame and made some modificaitons to where a Di2 battery is secured.
All sizes are in stock and ready to ship.
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I think it just got a 'Fast Bike' on the Nero Show ;)
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Hi :)
Has anyone found a set of TT bars which will fit the Integrated Bar HB010?
Thanks in advance!
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No but found a good deal. Also I will be having TT clip-ons and it looks nice 8)
No recommendations unfortunately.
But if you had to guess, do you think 58t should easily fit without rubbing the chainstay?
Did you buy the wheels?
I cut the fork a little more to reduce the slack, and I’m going to cut it a bit further to have it SLAMMED. I hope to have the XMCS 65/78 wheels by the summer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GTKpFz2b/IMG-9370.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GTKpFz2b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sGm2YKXs/IMG-9387.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGm2YKXs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jncjHv5Y/IMG-9390.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jncjHv5Y)
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Had decided for the Mondince FM126 earlier but the ability to ride a more forward position on this bike made me change my mind.
Happy to have found a bargain used full groupset too: Dura Ace Di2 11sp for 400 EUR.
And aero drop bars with attachable TT clip-ons from a Lapierre Aircode DRS for 200 EUR.
78/65mm wheel combo from XMCS coming up :D
Will update with photos once I've put it together. Thanks for the help deciding!
Did you receive and assemble everything by now? Curious to see how the 65/78 combo looks on the vbr. cheers!
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Did you buy the wheels?
I cut the fork a little more to reduce the slack, and I’m going to cut it a bit further to have it SLAMMED. I hope to have the XMCS 65/78 wheels by the summer.
Did you receive and assemble everything by now? Curious to see how the 65/78 combo looks on the vbr. cheers!
I did buy the wheels and frame but haven’t received neither yet unfortunately! :/
Frame should be here next week and wheels should’ve been sent a couple of days ago.
Bit annoying, thought I’d be riding by now but at least I have my mtb.
Will update later on, hope it won’t be more than two more weeks.
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So, my time for a review of the 368, or the Aerotrace that I still like to call it!
Ordered in early autumn, received the fram late December. Ordered an 55 frame, so that took some time to go into production, and also took some time to solve the derailleur problem, di2 fastening and so on. No worries for my part since I live in the north of Sweden and expected snow until end of april 😅
The communication with Chris was smooth through the entire process. They offered me compensation for the long waiting time without me asking for it.
The assembly was mostly straight forward, no issues with the headset or the BB. I went for the handlebar option with aluminium spacers. Had to sand down the inside of one of them to get it to fit around the steerer tube, it had some residue on the inside. The cable routing was pretty easy as well. The seatpost slipped once during one of the first test rides but not after that. Mounted with carbon paste and greased the inside of the "expander" and it has not slipped since. The expander for the steerer tube was trickier, it slipped numerous times. Tried dry and with carbon paste. Tried different grease on the inside the let the expander run smoothly when tightening. Tried 6-8 nm and it still slipped after some riding. Buy after some fiddling and tightening to 10nm with the stem bolts tighetened on the outside of the steerer tube it seemed to get the expansion it needed.
One issue was with the delivery was however that the rear axle that came along was to short. It was not threaded in at delivery and some one must have picked the wrong one. A mail to Chris and he sent a new one, took a spare from another bike in the meantime. Also the back brake mount would probably benefit from a facing, but by some mindful assembly I get it to run without rubbing. Experienced much worse on more expensive frames.
Then the riding, by now I have put in some 900+ kilometers. Cold and windy early spring conditions. The bike feels really planted, stable like a freight train when cruising. Not uncomfortable at all, at least not compared to the Rose Xeon that I came from. Been riding it with a pair of 60 mm Serenade steel spoke wheels, and 28 mm Vittoria Corsa. Despite being "planted" when riding along at 30 km/h, it really excels when pushing and going fast. It holds speed very well, feels equally as planted and predictable going fast through corners. It does catch some crosswinds, but when im pushing hard I have a tendency to hold onto my handlebars, so its nothing major. Have not felt any kind of flex when doing sprints. Im 83 kg and push some 1200 watts for 10-15 second sprints. Also hade no issues with the derailleur (running Sram Force Axs). It sits at 8.3 kg with Assioma duo pedals, computer mount, bottle cages. The wheels are just below 1400 g and running ridenow tubes.
Overall: Super happy with what I got for that money. It works fine, performs where I expected it to and dont know where I would have liked to pay some hundreds euros more on performance. Sure, it is not light, it is not aerotested, but for a complete bike that will smoke a lot of s-works for some 2000euros, I will not complain 😅
So, for anyone that wants something that at least look and feels very fast, does not want to spend money for the sake of spending money, is not afraid of solving minor issues, and does not look for a superlight complete build, I would recommend this frame. My honest unsponsored opinion 🥳
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Looks great, the seatpost slipping in my build i could handle with some bike protective foil for the frame, which i put a layer of 4cm one time tightly around the seat post. I manually faced the rear brake caliper mounting surfaces. This were the more major issues for my frame. But i totally agree. Size 49 came in at 7.8kgs in the end and it loks great, is fast and responsive and is a steal for the money.
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Bike looks great! What size tires?
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Any news on new layup?
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Just received my XMCS 78/65mm deep wheels! They arrived sooner than expected, haven’t gotten all the other parts yet but they will arrive next week. Hope to put the bike together then.
Here’s a photo of how it looks now. Would’ve looked much better with 78 mm on the front wheel as well but didn’t want that for apparent reasons. Hopefully it will look better with tyres on.
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Hey,
Just started assembling the frame.
I’ve read earlier posts on how to mount the fork and have the black bearing on the bottom and the red on top below the spacers.
The black full metal ring on the bottom and the c-ring on the top.
However there is significant play between the top c-ring and the fork tube. Will this go away after cutting the tube and installing the expander plug? Would carbon paste help?
It’s quite a lot so I’m rather unsure.
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The c ring will slide down as you compress headset. As it has a conical shape, as it slides down into the bearing it will tighten on the steerer tube.
Now if there is a lot of play, it may not tighter enough to actually remove the play.
All the ones I installed the Cring slide relatively snuggly on the tube
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Hey,
Just started assembling the frame.
I’ve read earlier posts on how to mount the fork and have the black bearing on the bottom and the red on top below the spacers.
The black full metal ring on the bottom and the c-ring on the top.
However there is significant play between the top c-ring and the fork tube. Will this go away after cutting the tube and installing the expander plug? Would carbon paste help?
It’s quite a lot so I’m rather unsure.
You don’t have to use the black metal ring. That’s only for non tapered forks and I guess they just send it with anyways… the lower bearing will sit right onto the fork and this mount is relatively standard in the industry.
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How is the centering done then?
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The end of the fork is a conical shape. And these metal rings are used for forks without that conical shape. And are not designed for plastic deformation when you tight your fork, because it will be hard to get this ring to the bottom of the tube without much trouble.
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Thank you all for the help!
Should work now.
Will update sometime next week.
Think it’ll look amazing!
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Hm, does anyone know if there is anywhere to mount Shimano 11sp Di2 battery BT-DN110-A and junction box EW-RS910?
And which parts to use, the ones on photos?
Edit: figured it out, wasn’t any of these parts at all (plastic is for computer mount and metal is for clamping seat post). The battery is to be strapped close to bb and seems like the junction box has to be loose in the frame, if I cant just use tape to put it in place.
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So quick update: build is coming along but slowly. It’s quite the hassle to put eveything together tbh. Especially the Di2 with all the cables.
But it will look real good I think. I lost my drivers license and can’t afford a car and sometimes dream of having a fast Audi or BMW with red calipers.. but my Velobuild with Freeza discs comes close 8)
Hope to be riding next week, finally..!
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Time for an update after some upgrades and a bit more riding. I finally got the LightBicycle Turbo 78s with bladed carbon spokes, and have them installed, picture attached. I think they look fabulous :)
I've done a bunch more miles on it, including a 10m TT. Unfortunately it was very windy - 30kph headwind out (tail home weeeeeee) but managed 37.5kph at 295W average. While the bike itself is quick and nice to ride sitting up on the hoods / drops, I'm struggling to get down in a good aero position. I may have gone too narrow on the bars (380mm) and flat forearm hoods is not sustainable despite the bladed aero bar. I'm looking at testing out PRO Vibe Aero Pursuit / Prime Doyenne bars and longer stem to get more forearm support. I think it's close, but not quite long enough just now. Or maybe I just need to do some planks..
Overall though, I'm delighted with the bike. For the money and for general riding and looks I just love it.
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Time for an update after some upgrades and a bit more riding. I finally got the LightBicycle Turbo 78s with bladed carbon spokes, and have them installed, picture attached. I think they look fabulous :)
I've done a bunch more miles on it, including a 10m TT. Unfortunately it was very windy - 30kph headwind out (tail home weeeeeee) but managed 37.5kph at 295W average. While the bike itself is quick and nice to ride sitting up on the hoods / drops, I'm struggling to get down in a good aero position. I may have gone too narrow on the bars (380mm) and flat forearm hoods is not sustainable despite the bladed aero bar. I'm looking at testing out PRO Vibe Aero Pursuit / Prime Doyenne bars and longer stem to get more forearm support. I think it's close, but not quite long enough just now. Or maybe I just need to do some planks..
Overall though, I'm delighted with the bike. For the money and for general riding and looks I just love it.
we both have significant saddle to bar drops. One idea i'm considering is getting a longer cockpit with a positive stack. I've seen 13mm, 20mm, and 40mm. In theory, a higher stack should be more comfortable (triathletes have been putting their skis higher and higher for years), and if you're higher, your reach goes up a bit. The issue is that integrated bikes are hell to adjust, so i can't just swap a stem and see.
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Yeah tweaking hell is real, it's hard to work out the optimal setup without going through a whole lot of cable management nonsense - and then for it to not be what you thought or slow and uncomfortable due to something you hadn't considered.
A friend said the same about raising the stack and initially it had me thinking. Certainly it seems popular and fast for TT/Tri bikes. Then I realised the difference - the contact point on a TT bike is the elbows, whereas on the road bike it's the wrists. Angling the extensions up on a TT bike doesn't change the angle of your back because your contact point (elbows) stay where they are; on the road bike a raised stem pulls everything up including your shoulders and head. Also on a TT bike the torso position is likely pretty good already, the marginal gains from stack height are more about getting the shoulders in and forearms hidden in front of the chest. On the road bike, most of the benefits are still coming from the lower shoulder and head height / flatter back.
My plan is to take the bike / geometry to a bike fitter and get them to replicate it, and also take the 2 bars I plan to try with me. They can then tweak stem length and angle until with my hands on the hoods and wrists on the bar, my upper arms are vertical, forearms horizontal and back as flat as possible.
Hopefully (fingers crossed) what we work out during the fitting will perfectly match the position once the new cockpit is on the actual bike.
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Time for an update after some upgrades and a bit more riding. I finally got the LightBicycle Turbo 78s with bladed carbon spokes, and have them installed, picture attached. I think they look fabulous :)
I've done a bunch more miles on it, including a 10m TT. Unfortunately it was very windy - 30kph headwind out (tail home weeeeeee) but managed 37.5kph at 295W average. While the bike itself is quick and nice to ride sitting up on the hoods / drops, I'm struggling to get down in a good aero position. I may have gone too narrow on the bars (380mm) and flat forearm hoods is not sustainable despite the bladed aero bar. I'm looking at testing out PRO Vibe Aero Pursuit / Prime Doyenne bars and longer stem to get more forearm support. I think it's close, but not quite long enough just now. Or maybe I just need to do some planks..
Overall though, I'm delighted with the bike. For the money and for general riding and looks I just love it.
Cool bike!
Regarding handlebars: why not very narrow chinese carbon bars instead of those alu ones? There is BikeDoc and Balugoe and others (check thread on Weight weenies).
I regret not buying a used Toot Asha RR that I saw for 150 EUR. It’s western and also got much longer reach than its chinese counterparts so there’s more forearm support.
I went with aero bars with clip ons instead which will probably be faster but I’m not sure it will be as much fun! :-\
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So quick update: build is coming along but slowly. It’s quite the hassle to put eveything together tbh. Especially the Di2 with all the cables.
But it will look real good I think. I lost my drivers license and can’t afford a car and sometimes dream of having a fast Audi or BMW with red calipers.. but my Velobuild with Freeza discs comes close 8)
Hope to be riding next week, finally..!
Looks nice, mind telling me where you got the handlebars on the Picture?
It looks like you can screw on Aerobars, and im planning to get something similar.
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Looks nice, mind telling me where you got the handlebars on the Picture?
It looks like you can screw on Aerobars, and im planning to get something similar.
They’re from a Lapierre Xelius Aircode. Bought them for 230 eur from a guy selling his frame.
BikeDoc has similar ones for about 200 eur. They’re the only ones I found that doesn’t cost a fortune.
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Hi, I have been said that new layup is coming next week, 200g weight savings and 50 euros more.
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Hi guys, I've now ridden the bike for 1,000 km. The fork extender kept slipping on several occasions, so I simply swapped it out for a different one. The bike is fast and a real head-turner. The seatpost didn't slip on my bike, though. I am very satisfied with the bike. :) :)
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Cool bike!
Regarding handlebars: why not very narrow chinese carbon bars instead of those alu ones? There is BikeDoc and Balugoe and others (check thread on Weight weenies).
I regret not buying a used Toot Asha RR that I saw for 150 EUR. It’s western and also got much longer reach than its chinese counterparts so there’s more forearm support.
I went with aero bars with clip ons instead which will probably be faster but I’m not sure it will be as much fun! :-\
Yeah I'm starting to wonder if I messed up on the cockpit. It's very hard to hold aero hoods because the bar contacts my forearms really far forward - I have a lot of forearm behind the bar so a lot of leverage and my triceps are burning after a few minutes. I then resort to the drops and speed falls off a cliff. Toot Ashaa and Speeco ABB2-UCI both look great with the rear forearm rest pad, but not for that money and they may be too narrow for me - I have wide shoulders and I am already over the steerer so a shorter stem works better. I just need to maximise the bar > hoods distance. I've found one on AliExpress (RXL) with 104mm reach, flat/aero bar tops and every combination of 400-440 / 90-120mm stem. I plan to send the frame geometry to a local fitter and see if I can work out exactly what the bar would feel like before deciding if I'm going down the cable re-routing rabbithole.
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Yeah I'm starting to wonder if I messed up on the cockpit. It's very hard to hold aero hoods because the bar contacts my forearms really far forward - I have a lot of forearm behind the bar so a lot of leverage and my triceps are burning after a few minutes. I then resort to the drops and speed falls off a cliff. Toot Ashaa and Speeco ABB2-UCI both look great with the rear forearm rest pad, but not for that money and they may be too narrow for me - I have wide shoulders and I am already over the steerer so a shorter stem works better. I just need to maximise the bar > hoods distance. I've found one on AliExpress (RXL) with 104mm reach, flat/aero bar tops and every combination of 400-440 / 90-120mm stem. I plan to send the frame geometry to a local fitter and see if I can work out exactly what the bar would feel like before deciding if I'm going down the cable re-routing rabbithole.
Have you tried narrow handle bars? I have straight arms on 440 mm and feared 325mm bars would be too narrow but experienced no discomfort whatsoever on < 3h rides.
Not sure if narrower would work as well though.
Tbh it’s the first upgrade I’d do on a bike after wheels, wide bars is just wasted watts. I’m even annoyed by my current bars being 440 mm even though I have TT bars on them.
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If anyone wants to buy a complete bike, just let me know.
Thinking of selling since I won’t be able to train at all in the foreseeable future :(
Size 58
Black matte color
XMCS 78/65 mm wheels
Dura Ace Di2 11sp groupset
Rotor InPower V3 Power meter with 165 mm cranks and 58/44t chainrings (can be swapped to smaller chainrings)
LaPierre Aircode drop bars with attachable TT bars
Still not finished though but hopefully upcoming weeks
Place: Sweden (but could sell within EU through Buycycle)
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Have you tried narrow handle bars? I have straight arms on 440 mm and feared 325mm bars would be too narrow but experienced no discomfort whatsoever on < 3h rides.
Not sure if narrower would work as well though.
Tbh it’s the first upgrade I’d do on a bike after wheels, wide bars is just wasted watts. I’m even annoyed by my current bars being 440 mm even though I have TT bars on them.
I've been happy with the narrower handlebars, and I'm still happy with them. I changed them from a 40 to a 38 at the beginning of the year, but I don't know how I'd react to an even narrower one. If it helps, I got this one from Lexon on sale https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006430373452.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4LGMmc9)
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I've been happy with the narrower handlebars, and I'm still happy with them. I changed them from a 40 to a 38 at the beginning of the year, but I don't know how I'd react to an even narrower one. If it helps, I got this one from Lexon on sale https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006430373452.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4LGMmc9)
You've got a PM!
Also really nice to see more builds out rolling!
Just passed the 3000k mark on my, and I am still as pleased as before! Looking at all the nice wheels floating around on the bikes in this thread, I am tempted to go deeper than the current 60mm... Tried a KMC X12 chain instead of the SRAM force flattop to see if that would get the noice down with the Goldix cassette. Helped a bit I think, shifiting is slightly worse though but good enough for rocknroll
It is still turning a lot of heads and battling very well with bikes costing 2-5 times as much ;)
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It is said "French creator" 🤡🤡🤡🤡.
https://www.heliumbikes-store.com/product-page/rham25-105-di2-12v-1
(Nothing to do with the Peugeot Helium for those feeling nostalgic.).
Edit : And also CFD...
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It is said "French creator" 🤡🤡🤡🤡.
https://www.heliumbikes-store.com/product-page/rham25-105-di2-12v-1
Haha, I also like that "Helium" Aircode saddle. What could it possibly be? xD
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It is said "French creator" 🤡🤡🤡🤡.
https://www.heliumbikes-store.com/product-page/rham25-105-di2-12v-1
(Nothing to do with the Peugeot Helium for those feeling nostalgic.).
Edit : And also CFD...
What is their H-68 model : VB 268 ? Seatpost seems different
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With the new carbon layup, They also offer a wider fork.
It seems that They also solved the slipping seatpost issue with a bigger wedge.
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My bike is soon ready now. Going to put on a golden chain too 8) (thanks for the idea, Tobi!)
Just waiting for new Di2 junction box and going to have the LBS bleed brakes and install bottom bracket.
Think I’ll try it out at least before deciding on selling.
However, since I can’t train properly, the TT-bars seem kind of pointless. They are also ugly, makes it look like a real TT bike almost. :(
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My bike is soon ready now. Going to put on a golden chain too 8) (thanks for the idea, Tobi!)
Just waiting for new Di2 junction box and going to have the LBS bleed brakes and install bottom bracket.
Think I’ll try it out at least before deciding on selling.
However, since I can’t train properly, the TT-bars seem kind of pointless. They are also ugly, makes it look like a real TT bike almost. :(
Whats the tire clearance with front derailleur because it looks really tight between back wheel?
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Whats the tire clearance with front derailleur because it looks really tight between back wheel?
Think it’s just the photo, there’s plenty or room.
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Btw, if anyone has ultra narrow bars (like the Toot Ashaa RR, Balugoe, BikeDoc etc) within the EU and is willing to sell/trade for my hybrid bars, please let me know.
Kind of doubt I will be in TT very much so seems rather pointless to have them I’ve realized.
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Pro version of the Aerotrace has just been launched https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-pro-aerotrace-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-disc-brake-toray-1000-carbon-fiber 150g full T1000 and better seatpost wedge to prevent saddle slipping and deeper fork.
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Pro version of the Aerotrace has just been launched https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2026-vb-r-368-pro-aerotrace-carbon-fiber-aero-road-bike-frame-disc-brake-toray-1000-carbon-fiber 150g full T1000 and better seatpost wedge to prevent saddle slipping and deeper fork.
Cant decide if Im happy to see this update or not, now the first version feels obsolet 🥲😅
Is this how dentist feels when there is a new Sworks out?
Anyway, good to see that Velobuild is improving after feedback. I'll probably have to live with some extra weight and a less wide fork
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I don't think the new frame makes that big of a difference. In the end, it's round about 130 grams lighter. ???
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I don't think the new frame makes that big of a difference. In the end, it's round about 130 grams lighter. ???
While the deeper fork is probably heavier
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You are definitely right both of you. But my mind is telling me: Lighter frame is better 8) deeper fork is more aero 8)
All in all it is what it takes to make me be able to follow guys with 1w/kg higher ftp with ease at all times. Atleast that is what one part of my brain is telling me... ;)
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I don't think the new frame makes that big of a difference. In the end, it's round about 130 grams lighter. ???
I dont think weight is the difference. I am curious to see if frame feels different from the use of T1000 which if they have done correct layup could improve the feel.
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Anyone had problems getting the BB properly seated?
As mine are now, I can’t get the crank arm all the way through. You can tell on the outside the BB isn’t properly seated. Not sure if the LBS might not have tightened the bearings properly or if the thread on the bike isn’t 100 %.
Using this one https://www.bike24.com/p2911516.html which is 85.5 mm and not 86.5 wide but that shouldn’t matter should it?
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It seems to me that they changed the geometry slightly for the new version. Or are the reach and stack measurements just different (shorter and higher) as they now measured to to top of the stem and not to the bearing cup?
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Something going on.
New forks are shorter
Head tube length the same so probably measuring the spacer.
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I placed an order of the pro frame in size 54 ud glossy, should be shipped out tomorrow! Do we think 50 mm wheels will look good or is it 60 mm minimum? ;D
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I placed an order of the pro frame in size 54 ud glossy, should be shipped out tomorrow! Do we think 50 mm wheels will look good or is it 60 mm minimum? ;D
60, truly. the frame is extremely beefy, 50 will look tiny.
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I placed an order of the pro frame in size 54 ud glossy, should be shipped out tomorrow! Do we think 50 mm wheels will look good or is it 60 mm minimum? ;D
I have 50mm on my old 2018 focus izalco max and I sometimes think 60s would look better, so definitely 60 or 65 :D
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yeah I have a set of 50 mm on the way because I first ordered a LCR018-D but it kept getting delayed and I didn't want to wait. So thinking about ordering a 65/60 set at serenade.
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yeah I have a set of 50 mm on the way because I first ordered a LCR018-D but it kept getting delayed and I didn't want to wait. So thinking about ordering a 65/60 set at serenade.
Definitely go for the 60/65! Especially with the new fork 50 will look very shallow!
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Yes I placed an order for 65/60 wheelset at serenade can’t wait to see how everything will look! Going to build it up with sram fore e1 2x.
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No one else had problems getting the BB properly seated?
I can’t mount my crankset as it is now :( The BB doesn’t seem to be properly aligned. The FSA bearings are drawn to 50 nM as they should but it comes to a halt one side and then the crankshaft won’t go through.
Any one idea on what to do? Just try to pound on the crankshaft til it goes through?
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Did you first screw it in only with hand? Cause obviously it is not aligned at all… if you only tightened it in the end with torque it should have been aligned well too. In case you did that properly and didn’t ruined the thread, then Velobuild did the worst job possible.
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Did you first screw it in only with hand? Cause obviously it is not aligned at all… if you only tightened it in the end with torque it should have been aligned well too. In case you did that properly and didn’t ruined the thread, then Velobuild did the worst job possible.
LBS did it and they assured me they screwed in with hand and used wrench at the end. They removed it and checked again too and thread not damaged apparently.
I’ve emailed Velobuild and waiting for reply.
Sucks that I won’t be riding anytime soon and perhaps not at all this summer.. :(
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I’ve emailed Velobuild and waiting for reply.
Sucks that I won’t be riding anytime soon and perhaps not at all this summer.. :(
What did they say? Did you check the threads yourself and is it actually not screwed up by your LBS?
they should have catched the alignment issue before tightening to torque tbh.. it's so crooked on yours you'd see it when putting on the tool.
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What did they say? Did you check the threads yourself and is it actually not screwed up by your LBS?
they should have catched the alignment issue before tightening to torque tbh.. it's so crooked on yours you'd see it when putting on the tool.
Chris said he is waiting for input from ingeneers.
Going to check with other bike shop this weekend/next week to see for myself (don’t have tool at home).
Will update!
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Is there any image of the frame with the new forks apart from the ones of Velobuild?
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I am hoping I will receive my new frame next week, I will try to take some pictures and weigh it.
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Here's mine in size XL, glossy black
Frame: 1419g
Fork: 626g
Seatpost: 322g (including saddle clamp and dummy saddle rails)
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Here's mine in size XL, glossy black
Frame: 1419g
Fork: 626g
Seatpost: 322g (including saddle clamp and dummy saddle rails)
Looks fast! 😮💨🚀
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Before I am going to assemble my pro frame, are there any specific things you want to know?
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Before I am going to assemble my pro frame, are there any specific things you want to know?
How's the paint job and facing? BB threads fine?
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How's the paint job and facing? BB threads fine?
I went for the UD glossy paint job because they had it in stock and I didn’t need to pay for the paintjob, it looks fine nothing that stands out or to complain about.
The brake mounts weren’t perfect but nothing major, a good time to test my new facing tool from Ali. The bottombracket was ok everything screwed in easy by hand. The back brake routing wasn’t very straightforward it needed some tries I think maybe the bonding wasn’t very nice inside or something like that. I don’t know because I can’t look inside the frame.
The only thing they forgot was the seatpost wedge and cover so I am waiting for them to arrive the rest is finished already :D
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Also my sram rear derailleur hit the frame after adjusting the B-gap for the 10-28 cassette so I had to screw it back to a point where it wouldn’t hit. Not very happy about this because I thought this problem was solved. It seems to shift just fine in the stand so I hope it will be ok on the road.
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Also my sram rear derailleur hit the frame after adjusting the B-gap for the 10-28 cassette so I had to screw it back to a point where it wouldn’t hit. Not very happy about this because I thought this problem was solved. It seems to shift just fine in the stand so I hope it will be ok on the road.
oof, and that's the new pro frame, right? is that with one of the chunky 1x sram derailleurs?
looking forward to pics of your finished build since I'm looking at the same frame and size potentially (lmk your body measurements if you don't mind :p)
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oof, and that's the new pro frame, right? is that with one of the chunky 1x sram derailleurs?
looking forward to pics of your finished build since I'm looking at the same frame and size potentially (lmk your body measurements if you don't mind :p)
Sure I think I previously said I ordered a size 54 but it’s a 52 they don’t have a size 54 ???.
I am 177 cm tall and have an inseam of 83 ordered it with the 380 by 90 integrated bars but would have liked 360.
It is the new pro frame and it’s just the standard Force E1 road derailleur.
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I received the seatpost wedge today, so it’s ready for a test ride tomorrow!
Still needs some bartape but I will dial in my fit first and I am waiting for my 65/60 Serenade wheels. ;D
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Any updates?
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Any updates?
I don’t know if this question was for me but..
First ride done, no major issues other than the seatpost slipping but I didn’t apply carbon paste yet so I did now.
I was happy with the comfort of the bike, because after a few years only 40mm+ tyres I was a little bit scared for a harsh ride but I was surprised even with the 30mm tyres and carbon spokes.
Other than that I don’t know what to report can’t really comment on the layup it felt fine I guess ::) not too stif or flexible.
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I don’t know if this question was for me but..
First ride done, no major issues other than the seatpost slipping but I didn’t apply carbon paste yet so I did now.
I was happy with the comfort of the bike, because after a few years only 40mm+ tyres I was a little bit scared for a harsh ride but I was surprised even with the 30mm tyres and carbon spokes.
Other than that I don’t know what to report can’t really comment on the layup it felt fine I guess ::) not too stif or flexible.
Did you install the seatpost wedge with wider and roughter texture or the standard one because mine came with two different ones?
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Did you install the seatpost wedge with wider and roughter texture or the standard one because mine came with two different ones?
I only received a textured one
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That's a beautiful bike you got there @Ghandy!
I think the front of the bike looks much better with the new fork.
I assume you already have it set up to fit on these pictures. Reassures me the 55 is the size for me at 186cm with 86cm inseam.
I think there's a recommendation for the seatpost wedge in this thread to grease the sides that sit against the frame so it doesn't get stuck on the frame instead of pressing against the seatpost. Not sure it's still relevant with the apparently new wedge..?
Did you end up having to use that facing tool on the brake mounts? How did it go?
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That's a beautiful bike you got there @Ghandy!
I think the front of the bike looks much better with the new fork.
I assume you already have it set up to fit on these pictures. Reassures me the 55 is the size for me at 186cm with 86cm inseam.
I think there's a recommendation for the seatpost wedge in this thread to grease the sides that sit against the frame so it doesn't get stuck on the frame instead of pressing against the seatpost. Not sure it's still relevant with the apparently new wedge..?
Did you end up having to use that facing tool on the brake mounts? How did it go?
Yes the saddle height is correct in the pictures and I did order another handlebar in 36 cm because that fits me better. I think you made the correct choice but you could’ve make it work with the size 52 I think. I like the look of the 52 better than the 55.
I will grease the sides didn’t know that, I did grease where the two halves meet.
And I did use my facing tool and the alignment was straightforward after that. Though the tool didn’t clamp very well on the axle so I had to keep it level myself.
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Picture from this morning’s ride, hopefully I will receive my new wheels today!
After the carbon paste no more slipping seatpost ;D
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I think you made the correct choice but you could’ve make it work with the size 52 I think. I like the look of the 52 better than the 55.
I definitely see what you're saying and it's not an easy choice.
Technically I should get roughly the same amount of seatpost showing that you have assuming you also have 165 cranks. It's the 18mm taller headtube I'm not so sure about but I have some ideas for custom painting that should help with that.
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I definitely see what you're saying and it's not an easy choice.
Technically I should get roughly the same amount of seatpost showing that you have assuming you also have 165 cranks. It's the 18mm taller headtube I'm not so sure about but I have some ideas for custom painting that should help with that.
Yes I have 165 mm cranks and 83 cm inseam. I have around 17 cm seatpost sticking out and 745 mm saddle height from the bb.
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Received my new wheels yesterday and took them for a fun test ride this evening.
I love them, they feel great!
Very planted and not harsh at all, mind you I don’t have much experience with carbon road bike wheels but they feel better than the KORE wheels I used before them. They gave me a lot of confidence in the corners and felt very comfortable.
The only thing that’s left are the new bars and then it’s finished!
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And I did use my facing tool and the alignment was straightforward after that. Though the tool didn’t clamp very well on the axle so I had to keep it level myself.
So similar to what is discussed here in the latest posts, right? Just in your case it was the clamping on the axle and not the other arm. I guess they don't have great tolerances but imagine it could be fixed with some tape?
edit: was referring to this https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4812.msg117629.html#msg117629
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So similar to what is discussed here in the latest posts, right? Just in your case it was the clamping on the axle and not the other arm. I guess they don't have great tolerances but imagine it could be fixed with some tape?
I could’ve tried tightening the thru axle some more. But it wasn’t really a problem for me, because of this I could move it away easily to check my progress.
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I could’ve tried tightening the thru axle some more. But it wasn’t really a problem for me, because of this I could move it away easily to check my progress.
Just realized I forgot to post the link I war referring to lol
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4812.msg117629.html#msg117629
It's that tool, right? Good to know though.
Looking forward to your final build.
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LightCarbon HBR17 handlebar.
When I ask VB to send me that 3d printed dust cover for the LC bar, that's all I need, right? It's not an 'adapter'?
Cause LC also offers a variety of adapters which got me confused but looks like it's simply custom dust cover -> spacers -> handlebar -> top cap, correct?
Did you end up fixing the clearance issues with wider bearings like @gribs suggested?
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When I ask VB to send me that 3d printed dust cover for the LC bar, that's all I need, right? It's not an 'adapter'?
Cause LC also offers a variety of adapters which got me confused but looks like it's simply custom dust cover -> spacers -> handlebar -> top cap, correct?
Did you end up fixing the clearance issues with wider bearings like @gribs suggested?
How much do you need to pay for the cover? My new bars fit in the old cover but it isn’t perfect. It doesn’t really bother me but if it’s not expensive I might consider it.
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How much do you need to pay for the cover? My new bars fit in the old cover but it isn’t perfect. It doesn’t really bother me but if it’s not expensive I might consider it.
Nothing but that doesn't necessarily mean anything I think. I ordered the frame without handlebars/stem and asked for the custom cover from the start. They'll refund me a small amount for no handlebar but I'm also getting custom paint without extra fee. At least that's the communication so far.
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Nothing but that doesn't necessarily mean anything I think. I ordered the frame without handlebars/stem and asked for the custom cover from the start. They'll refund me a small amount for no handlebar but I'm also getting custom paint without extra fee. At least that's the communication so far.
I ordered with an integrated handlebar because they offered me a 60 dollar discount without handlebars. But I wanted to try it because you can’t really buy an integrated handlebar for that price, they told me the smallest size was 380 but they measure in the drops because at the hoods it’s 360. In the end I swapped it out because I didn’t like the look of it.
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I think it’s finished ;D
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I think it’s finished ;D
Looks great! Are you liking the bars?
Some in here have theorized a shorter chain might help with the RD clearance. Did you try that? It looks like chain got shorter between some of your pics.
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Looks great! Are you liking the bars?
Some in here have theorized a shorter chain might help with the RD clearance. Did you try that? It looks like chain got shorter between some of your pics.
Yes I like the bars, they look a lot better than the velobuild ones. They are maybe a little more compliant but I don’t mind it I am not that heavy and don’t have a big sprint, I am more a big engine kinda guy or so I am told ;D
In my experience chain length doesn’t matter only b-gap, I first had a very short chain but I made it a bit longer because I swapped chainring size and bought another 10-33 cassette for holiday.
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Has anyone else has got seatpost creaking when pushing it up and down and also seatpost slipping and if so how did you solve it ?
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Has anyone else has got seatpost creaking when pushing it up and down and also seatpost slipping and if so how did you solve it ?
My bike hasn't arrived yet, but from what I read there's a newer version of the seatpost with a rough surface on the bottom part that should prevent slipping.
Also (on the older seatpost..?) people used some kind of shim to stop it from slipping like it's shown in patrick lino's video.
Another cause could be the seatpost clamp partly wedging itself against the frame and a user suggested lubricating only the parts (sides?) sitting against the frame to make sure it applies full clamping force against the seatpost.
Can't describe that last one better since I only read about it myself.
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My bike hasn't arrived yet, but from what I read there's a newer version of the seatpost with a rough surface on the bottom part that should prevent slipping.
Also (on the older seatpost..?) people used some kind of shim to stop it from slipping like it's shown in patrick lino's video.
Another cause could be the seatpost clamp partly wedging itself against the frame and a user suggested lubricating only the parts (sides?) sitting against the frame to make sure it applies full clamping force against the seatpost.
Can't describe that last one better since I only read about it myself.
I am in the new version but i have got two seatpost clamps one with rougher surface (where the seatpost is in contact with the clamp) than the other one so i dont really know which one i should use
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Hello guys,
I want to buy this frame but I'm unsure about the size.
My height is 187cm and i have long legs and arms compared to my upper body (89cm inseam length). In the past I have ridden size 56 frames and end up with a high saddle height and long stem. I was thinking that for this frame i could maybe get away with a size 58, which would make the proportions of saddle height and bar stem better and maybe even a slammed stem would be possible.
What do you guys suggest?
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Hello guys,
I want to buy this frame but I'm unsure about the size.
My height is 187cm and i have long legs and arms compared to my upper body (89cm inseam length). In the past I have ridden size 56 frames and end up with a high saddle height and long stem. I was thinking that for this frame i could maybe get away with a size 58, which would make the proportions of saddle height and bar stem better and maybe even a slammed stem would be possible.
What do you guys suggest?
58 sounds fine for you, go for it
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58 sounds fine for you, go for it
Don't you think the 58 is a bit long for him? I'm 186.5cm with a 86.5cm inseam and 191cm wingspan. Went with the 55.
Can't say anything about the fit as the frame has not arrived yet.
What do you guys suggest?
Compare the actual geometry with your previous frames not just the declared frame size. Check stack and reach, with this frame's seatpost the rear has a wide range of adjustment so I wouldn't worry about that too much.
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What did they say? Did you check the threads yourself and is it actually not screwed up by your LBS?
they should have catched the alignment issue before tightening to torque tbh.. it's so crooked on yours you'd see it when putting on the tool.
Finally received new frame today. Velobuild was helpful and sent it once they had them in stock.
So in the end no riding this season, not sure if I’ll keep it or sell it.
If anyone is interested in a complete bike with XMCS 78/65 wheels, full Dura Ace Di2 R9100, Rotor crankset with power meter and LaPierre aero bars with TT bars please let me know.
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So in the end no riding this season
damn, season already over where you're from? Still waiting for my frame to get shipped. Hoping for a golden autumn to at least give it a few spins ;D
so the bb threads were simply misaligned by factory or was it damaged? good to know VB helped you out
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damn, season already over where you're from? Still waiting for my frame to get shipped. Hoping for a golden autumn to at least give it a few spins ;D
so the bb threads were simply misaligned by factory or was it damaged? good to know VB helped you out
No not fully over, I’m in Sweden, I could ride until October but it’s so cold so not very pleasant to ride fast, much prefer mtb riding then! Need to transfer parts from old frame as well.
But will try a spin or two for sure, curious how much faster it will be than my old Tarmac 2008 I had last summer (40km/h required around 320w on a flat).
Yeah my guess is they were not aligned side to side. Yup they were much more helpful than other Chinese brands seem to be, they sent me the new lighter frame too (but without the new fork).
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First holiday with the bike ;D I like it even more now. Despite the weight I like the way it rides and climbs.
I swapped my 10-28 cassette for a 10-33 to get a better bailout gear, but I didn’t need it yet tomorrow I will do a ride with some more climbing.
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Wheels look great in this pic. Serenade?
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Wheels look great in this pic. Serenade?
Yes 65 in the back 60 in the front. 25 internal. I love them they ride great. I was worried they would feel harsh with the carbon spokes but they are super comfy and fast!
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First holiday with the bike ;D I like it even more now. Despite the weight I like the way it rides and climbs.
I swapped my 10-28 cassette for a 10-33 to get a better bailout gear, but I didn’t need it yet tomorrow I will do a ride with some more climbing.
What does it weigh?
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What does it weigh?
I am not sure I will weigh it when I get home I think around 8,5 kg with bottle cages, pedals and computer mount.
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Finally received new frame today. Velobuild was helpful and sent it once they had them in stock.
Since you got one recently, may I ask how long it took to arrive after VB sent the package?
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Since you got one recently, may I ask how long it took to arrive after VB sent the package?
17 days!
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Since you got one recently, may I ask how long it took to arrive after VB sent the package?
13 days for me
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So I did a thousand km’s on the bike now and a few thousand meters of climbing last week and I must say I really like the bike and the speed makes me like road biking a lot more.;D
I don’t have any problems and the ride feel is great. I am comfortable on the bike but I don’t have any good roadbikes to compare it to. I only rode some aluminium bikes before switching to carbon gravel bikes.
The only thing I don’t really like if I have to think of something is the weight but that doesn’t really matter for 95% of the riding I do because where I live everything is flat.
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Now it’s definitely finish. Made p17./85 and the other guys had mostly TT bikes :D the bike is nice fast and good to ride
;D
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Congrats!
Do you mind sharing your avg speed and power?
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Congrats!
Do you mind sharing your avg speed and power?
397Watts / 44,5kmh 85kg 196cm
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What does it weigh?
Update I weighed it and it was 8,52 kg with computer mount, bottle cages and pedals.