Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Sakizashi on June 29, 2025, 12:36:26 AM
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I don't think there is a thread for this frame yet. I spotted it earlier today, and while conservative in terms of design, it ticks a lot of boxes for someone looking for a frame that can handle a bit of cross, light gravel, and road riding.
Things I like:
- 35mm Tire clearance This is conservative. I expected 4mm of clearance with 35mm tires. I have measured ~8mm of clearance with 33WAM tires and ~6mm of clearance with 37mm WAM tires
- Pretty standard road geometry--chain stays at 410mm are a little longer than I would like, but still plenty short Yes. It handles and climbs like a very good road bike. Very TCR like.
- Designed to mimic the Giant TCR in terms of stiffness numbers and feel (per the information listed on the website for the Permeants St-09 version)
- UDH
- T47i (85.5mm)
- Weight, they are claiming 760g frame and 325g fork including metal parts for a matte painted bare frame and like 20g more for a transparent green Time style paint. The seatpost weighs 98g and appears to use Ritchey-style hardware. This is likely >250g lighter than something like the SP cycle R088. EDIT: Given the weights posted here, S and M frames should be sub 800g with accessories and lighter-weight paint jobs. These weights have been verified and are realistic. The 680g marketing weight for the bare frame is also likely a very real number. Frame seems to match up well numbers wise with the Seka Spear RDC and the Elilee Blize XXE. Absolutely bonkers at this price.
- Claimed T1100, T1000, M65 blend. If true this is a nice high-end blend of medium-mod / high-strength and high-mod fibers
- Standard 1.5in headset Based on what we have seen so far, your best option is probably to buy a FSA No55R (40x51.8x8mm 36°/45°) headset separately and look for a FSA compatible stem / one-piece barstem
Things I don't like:
- Only one fork offset across the range, they should have a 50mm offset for the smallest 2 sizes IMO
- Stacks are a little high for a true race bike in the L, XL, and XXL.
- I personally think a few more MM BB drop would be nice, assuming a 30mm or 32mm tire size rather than 28mm will be run with this frame.
- Does not come with good rubber accessories. There are no rubber plugs to block the holes for unused mechanical cables for the FD or for the RD routing if wireless. The seatpost clamp cover looks like it was inspired by a napkin. See the notes below in the "Things to consider when ordering this frame" section for alternatives.
I have no idea about the price, but overall this looks like really nice option for a build. The price for the bare frame (no headset or thru-axles) with clear coat is currently $610/unit. We should expect this to fluctuate based on demand, availability, and currency conversion as we are dealing with a factory here.
https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/421.html
EDIT: Now that these bikes are out in the wild, I have added comments in red
EDIT2: Adding content to this post to reflect some build hints and purchase configurations.
Things to consider when ordering this frame:
- Sizes S, M, L, XL, and XXL are now available to order and appear to be shipping to customers. This is an expansion of the range, as originally only S, M, and L sizes were offered. Alisa at LTK indicated that they needed to see demand before they expanded the offering, so it seems like we were successful.
- Speaking of Alisa, her contact is: longtengalisa@163.com. You can also contact her through the contact fork at LTbikes.com.
- You can also find a similar site Longtengbike.com, which leads you to Rex who is active on this forum.
- The frame is also available from Permants as the ST-09, Tideace as the CR266-D, and Haideli bikes as the CR266-D. Eddy from Haideli is also here on the forum.
- Per above, it seems like sourcing an FSA ACR No 55R LS headset is probably something you should do. FSA also sells the following headsets that are similar; FSA ACR No 55R STD (compatible but uses a different upper bearing, has slightly less internal space than the LS and cant quite do as tight of a hose bend as the LS), FSA no. 69 SRS (Compatible), FSA no 69/DUAL/56 SRS (not compatible, i think).
- LTK does sell an integrated barstem, but given current reviews, you are strongly advised to purchase a different bar. The LTK integrated barstem appears to use a proprietary spacer stack (poorly made and heavy). The barstem is also ~100g heavier than competitors in similar sizes, and there are doubts regarding the supplied bearing and C ring. Alternatives in this thread include the Tavelo Avro (@klrdd's build) and the XMCS one-piece (@BeeMC's build). The latter might be attractive because it does not require an adapter to interface with the FSA ACR headsets.
- My own build uses a two-piece bar and stem. The obvious choice here is the FSA SMR stem, but it is a bit heavy for a build like this. There are custom options available to integrate in lighter stems, incl. the Kalloy Uno, with this frame.
- Based on the contents of the thread so far, it seems prudent to order from LTK, the frameset + thru axles. This will come with one SL UDH hanger, an FD mount, both 7mm and 9mm saddle mount hardware, and an integrated seat post wedge.
- The standard clear appears to be tinted dark to hide some of the rough areas. On request it appears you can order a "clear clear" vs. the standard "black clear." Not sure what to make of this, but its likely informative to folks who want to get that "raw carbon" look.
- This frame does NOT include a Di2 battery mount. @Oker_s as a 3D printed solution and he as offered the .stl file to interested folks. I also believe the larger size Shimano one should work.
- An alternative seatpost clamp cover that fits aesthetically well is the one for the 2021 Giant Defy. Part No. 1724-SPSHIM-901. The cover looks great on the front, but it has additional overhang on the rear. Most people would consider this to be a significant upgrade over the original. Credit to @Oker_s for the find. A second alternative is to print one out of TPU. An STL file with my design is attached to this post.
- If you need to block up holes in the frame (e.g., the mechanical FD cable opening), I strongly recommend Tesa's Sugru. It's cheap, easy to mold into a plug that looks good, and removable with a pick or a set of tweezers.
- While some of the supplied accessories and rubber parts are low quality, the overall frame is high quality, and the few that are built have very impressed owners. Hopefully, more will be built and ridden, so we can see if this frame really belongs in the conversation for the best open-mold road frames available.
Build Inspo from this thread:
"Official" build from @Eddy-haideli. Size S
(https://imgur.com/AeVCXIdh.jpg)
@bedampft DuraAce Di2, "Mixtape" vinyl wrap, and Giant Contact SLR Bar + Stem. Size L
(https://imgur.com/f1HMWABh.jpg)
@sakizashi SRAM 1x Rival E1/D1 mix all-road build w/ kalloy uno stem and Hope RX2 calipers. Size M
(https://imgur.com/HAgnHich.jpg)
@klrdd Sram Force E1 AXS roadbuild w/Tavelo barstem. Size L
(https://imgur.com/hi53p0th.jpg)
@BeeMC Lightweight Sram mix w/ XMCS barstem. Size S
(https://imgur.com/LTc28u2h.jpg)
@TidyDinosaur Flyweight sub-6.2kg build with Avian barstem. Size S
(https://imgur.com/gLPVsS7h.jpg)
u/sundayvacation from r/chinesecarbon. AXS mix, LB Aria wheelset, Tavelo barstem, Pantone Warm Grey 8C paint. Size M
(https://imgur.com/57nNcIhh.jpg)
@Halfshark Di2 build w/ riser barstem. Size M
(https://imgur.com/A3I0rF7h.jpg)
@MARIOVL Permeants St-09 Di2 build. Size S
(https://imgur.com/X8dJiVvh.jpg)
@alexgaignard Di2 build with LTK barstem and AeroRaptor Wheels. Size M
(https://imgur.com/1NcD4CSh.jpg)
@OGLuka, Di2, Magene TEO carbon crankset, Light Carbon HBR17 barstem. Size XL
(https://imgur.com/KsTGG2Nh.jpg)
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I just sent Alisa a message about this frame so I'll report back if I get info.
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I need everyone to send her an email and ask them when they are gonna make them in XL sizing please!!! Lol they only have S/M/L sizes and I would LOVE an XL. This frame fits all my needs! The transparent green is super pretty also.
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I need everyone to send her an email and ask them when they are gonna make them in XL sizing please!!! Lol they only have S/M/L sizes and I would LOVE an XL. This frame fits all my needs! The transparent green is super pretty also.
That's typical unfortunately. As a tall guy myself I came across multiple vendors that despite having larger sizes on their geometry charts never actually manufactured a single frame. I don't want to be a doomer here but I'm afraid they simply don't have the mold for XL. Hope I'm wrong, though, geo looks pretty good in XL
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Hum the geometry table on their page displays size XL ?
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Hum the geometry table on their page displays size XL ?
It sure does...however it's 'not being made unless consumer demands it'. That was the response I got from them.
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I will e-mail them then I want one
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Long Teng being themselves, launching new frames in complete anonymity :D At least you know you're not paying for the marketing department...
Looks very nice, it ticks a LOT of boxes for anyone who doesn't want an aero bike.
Someone please ask Alisa for a quote, i'm very curious. My 268 was about 400$, but doesn't use fancy fibers. So, curious how much that one costs.
It's probably fair to assume this is another open mould.
Price quote from Alisa
For the model LTK266-SL , it's our new super light road frame set , it's full integrated mold without any joints , with UDH rear hanger , T47[86mm] BB and the max tire is 35C . The available size are S/M/L .
The price of the frame set is $610/set (Frame+Fork+Seat post) in UD Black matte or glossy finish . We can also provide you with the matched axle $25/Pair (Front and Rear) and rear hanger for spare $6/pcs .
Yes , we can do translucent green frame and a white fork for you . For the painting , you need to pay extra $85 for it .
Now ,we have the model in size S/M/L in raw finish in stock .
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This is an interesting frame. i think price might drop over time a little. I do still think that the R088 from SPcycle is a better deal for the money right now.
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Thank you for that. They're getting expensive. It's way, way more than their previous models. Higher quality stuff, sure, but it's still unclear to me whether one can feel the difference irl, especially once you've put tyres that measure 34+mm on it.
I got to find a friend who wants one in my size so i can try it and see what the T1100 fuss is about :)
The tube shapes are also super minimalist. The fork is super skinny, the down tube looks bland, the rear has very little character. I wish they'd make that more aero looking like Peter's GT frame.
Basically, it looks much slower than my 268. For a lot more money.
But 35C, cheaper than Peter's GT, with high end materials, which makes a LOT of other frames look overpriced AF (such as the entire inventory of panda podium). Although, to be fair, the ER:One looks a lot gangsterer (yes i made that up) than the 266. But the specs are "the same" and the price difference is staggering.
It depends on your home currency. The dollar lost 10% of its value since the start of the year, and 15%-20% since 3. Adding inflation and you see they are not unreasonable.
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I received this frame about a month ago. Alisa is great at answering detailed questions. She seems very professional and was always helpful. I placed my order on the 17th of May and received it around the 13th or 14th of June.
I ordered size S, and as far as I can tell, the frame is almost perfect. There's a small gap that looks like a void or chip, but it’s nothing to worry about. It’s so small that I didn’t even notice it at first glance. Everything else looks great. The inside of the frame is ultra smooth. I need to clean the T47 threads because they look dirty — it seems like some stuff got in there. But again, that’s nothing unusual; you kind of expect to do some minor maintenance with OEM frames. For around $700–750, it’s hard to find a better frame, and if the T1000 + T1100 carbon info is true, then that’s an amazing deal.
As for the weight — my frame in size S, including both hangers, weighs around 730–740g. I’m happy with that.
I'll try to post some photos of the frame later. Here's how it looks, very minimalistic and I like Scott Addict RC 2025 paintjob so got inspired by that as a base. I will be adding some small details myself.
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It's like a high end version of the SPcycle R088. It weighs less and has a more flexible T47 bottom bracket. It's frames like this that make going the Chinese carbon route far more interesting. I don't see the point going for a knock-off like the X68! ;)
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I received this frame about a month ago. Alisa is great at answering detailed questions. She seems very professional and was always helpful. I placed my order on the 17th of May and received it around the 13th or 14th of June.
I ordered size S, and as far as I can tell, the frame is almost perfect. There's a small gap that looks like a void or chip, but it’s nothing to worry about. It’s so small that I didn’t even notice it at first glance. Everything else looks great. The inside of the frame is ultra smooth. I need to clean the T47 threads because they look dirty — it seems like some stuff got in there. But again, that’s nothing unusual; you kind of expect to do some minor maintenance with OEM frames. For around $700–750, it’s hard to find a better frame, and if the T1000 + T1100 carbon info is true, then that’s an amazing deal.
As for the weight — my frame in size S, including both hangers, weighs around 730–740g. I’m happy with that.
I'll try to post some photos of the frame later. Here's how it looks, very minimalistic and I like Scott Addict RC 2025 paintjob so got inspired by that as a base. I will be adding some small details myself.
Thanks for the photos. I am currently working through the order process. I've been full up on bikes for a while, needing to let one go to make room for another build, but I think this is worth getting. The order process is a little too complicated in the sense that I wish Alisa would send me a form with options, allowing me to review the list, and then provide a quote. That said, she has been great so far.
Regarding pricing, it's pretty fair. There aren't many options like it on the market, and their costs have likely increased as well due to trade politics and currency fluctuations, among other factors. According to Alisa, the 35mm clearance is also 6mm, not 4mm, of clearance, so the clearance spec is more similar to what Trek does rather than some brands that use the ISO 4210 carve-out for road-only bikes. For example this frame should have more clearance than an Enve Melee and similar to a Time ADHX.
Thank you for that. They're getting expensive. It's way, way more than their previous models. Higher quality stuff, sure, but it's still unclear to me whether one can feel the difference irl, especially once you've put tyres that measure 34+mm on it.
I got to find a friend who wants one in my size so i can try it and see what the T1100 fuss is about :)
The tube shapes are also super minimalist. The fork is super skinny, the down tube looks bland, the rear has very little character. I wish they'd make that more aero looking like Peter's GT frame.
Basically, it looks much slower than my 268. For a lot more money.
But 35C, cheaper than Peter's GT, with high end materials, which makes a LOT of other frames look overpriced AF (such as the entire inventory of panda podium). Although, to be fair, the ER:One looks a lot gangsterer (yes i made that up) than the 266. But the specs are "the same" and the price difference is staggering.
We have a different wish list, lol. The aero difference between an aero stylized frame and one like this is tough to measure. If you conduct your testing on a velodrome or out-and-back loop without a sensor, you end up testing only shallow yaw angles, and there is essentially no measurable difference. Meanwhile, changing your helmet can be a measurable improvement. I'm not saying that frame aero doesn't matter at all, but it's not going to be a reason for me to buy or not buy an open mold frame, especially since I suspect nothing beyond basic CFD is being done on frames at this price point. However, I also love XMCarbonspeed's aesthetic. Clearly inspired by Pinarello, but with straighter lines.
This bike also isnt going to replace my custom road bike as my go-fast bike; this will be setup more as a cross bike / allroad commuter type. It likely won't have the gearing to try and drop anyone at 48km/h+
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I've asked about XL frame and when it will be ready. Here's the answer:
It's hard to say , because now there's no much demand in size XL in the market . If there's order 30-50 sets , we can condsider to make the XL mold .
Thanks for your understanding !
That's pitty, because it's standard 56/57 cm frame for western world.
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Hi everyone,
I am a newly registered user after I've been following several threads for quite some time. I got interested in Chinese carbon frames and components during a recent business trip to Shenzhen where I spotted some interesting builds. During my research, I also came across LTBIKE and their LTK266-D-SL frameset looks very promising. The headtube is a bit bulky for my taste but the overall design and specs look great.
Has anyone seen/assembled a complete build and if yes, could you please post some pictures? It's nice to see different images of an actual frame but only a full build makes the picture complete ;-)
Thanks in advance and happy to be part of the community and to exchange with you guys!
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There's separate discussion about the LongTeng model RD301D, head over there to see all the relevant pics of the RD301D, yes including complete RD301D bike.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4792.0.html
Hi everyone,
I am a newly registered user after I've been following several threads for quite some time. I got interested in Chinese carbon frames and components during a recent business trip to Shenzhen where I spotted some interesting builds. During my research, I also came across LTBIKE and their LTK266-D-SL frameset looks very promising. The headtube is a bit bulky for my taste but the overall design and specs look great.
Has anyone seen/assembled a complete build and if yes, could you please post some pictures? It's nice to see different images of an actual frame but only a full build makes the picture complete ;-)
Thanks in advance and happy to be part of the community and to exchange with you guys!
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From the LT literature: Geometry design is more suitable for Asian type rider.
I don't think it matters much, but something to keep in mind.
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this thing seems to be completely identical with Tideace FM-CR266 and also Permeants ST-09 (which is a new retail higher-endish brand of Tideace in mainland china so these two are the same frameset) which are built by Haideli, but i can't be sure if they are "same mold different manufacturer"(common thing for open molds) or one purchasing framesets from the other just for distribution(which means "same manufacturer different retailer").
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this thing seems to be completely identical with Tideace FM-CR266 and also Permeants ST-09 (which is a new retail higher-endish brand of Tideace in mainland china so these two are the same frameset) which are built by Haideli, but i can't be sure if they are "same mold different manufacturer"(common thing for open molds) or one purchasing framesets from the other just for distribution(which means "same manufacturer different retailer").
Looks more to me like same manufacturer, different retailer. As they both don't have XL and XXL sizes available.
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It’s a shame those sizes (xl and xxl) aren’t available! Anything similar on the market?
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Thanks a lot guys, this is very useful information regarding LTK266-D-SL, Tideace FM-CR266 and Permeants ST-09 being identical! This also becomes apparent when comparing the frame geometries. Overall, the frame is very close the Tarmac SL7 except for the seat tube (15mm shorter on SL7) and the wheelbase (10mm shorter on SL7). I wonder if this is related to what they refer to as "geometric design is more suitable for Asian body types"?
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/longteng-266-20xx-m,tideace-fm-cr266-2025-m,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54/
It also appears to me that most posted frame and full build images must be rather small-sized frames, which is why some designs and builds might look a bit awkward.
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Afaik, Asian body types usually means lower bikes with more reach (i guess on average Asians have shorter legs?). And the cycling population is young and demands aggressive bikes, whereas the west is getting old and people increasingly demand more relaxed geometries. That's my read of it anyway.
From the LT literature: Geometry design is more suitable for Asian type rider.
I don't think it matters much, but something to keep in mind.
The first time I saw the Asian geometry thing pop up was on the Seka Exceed. The founder of that brand is (allegedly since I dont know him) a prolific bike fitter and his claim was that because of shorter legs and arms that the bike geometry needed a lower standover and shorter reach. This was a huge marketing thing along with their messaging that their RDC frames were made in the same factory as Factor.
The result was the opposite of what Serge suggested since you ended up with a size range with relatively high stacks for their reach and seatpost position. Not at all unlike what Serge claims the western market needs more of.
The branded bikes from Bross, Elilee, etc, are all higher stack for their reach than most of their western counterparts, but this is more of a result of a focus on shorter reach rather than an intent; so it does seem like the smaller sizes end up better sorted than the larger ones. I think the open molds being low is a result of copying geometries of older bikes.
Regarding this frame. I feel like I have gone like 8 rounds with Alisa and still dont have an invoice to pay. This is really the factory ordering experience.
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Thanks a lot guys, this is very useful information regarding LTK266-D-SL, Tideace FM-CR266 and Permeants ST-09 being identical! This also becomes apparent when comparing the frame geometries. Overall, the frame is very close the Tarmac SL7 except for the seat tube (15mm shorter on SL7) and the wheelbase (10mm shorter on SL7). I wonder if this is related to what they refer to as "geometric design is more suitable for Asian body types"?
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/longteng-266-20xx-m,tideace-fm-cr266-2025-m,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54/
It also appears to me that most posted frame and full build images must be rather small-sized frames, which is why some designs and builds might look a bit awkward.
I took a look at Haideli last night and interestingly their factory page lists the 266 (not SL) with a bb86 and lower spec carbon. They also seem to share an address with LT and share the same photo of the factory.
My thought is that they could be part of the same cooperative factory, they are both just agents for the actual factory, or there is some Flybike > Carbonda > QuickPro like thing going on where they have setup different front ends to provide the “right” level of support to purchasers depending on their size.
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I took a look at Haideli last night and interestingly their factory page lists the 266 (not SL) with a bb86 and lower spec carbon. They also seem to share an address with LT and share the same photo of the factory.
My thought is that they could be part of the same cooperative factory, they are both just agents for the actual factory, or there is some Flybike > Carbonda > QuickPro like thing going on where they have setup different front ends to provide the “right” level of support to purchasers depending on their size.
It gets confusing very quickly with all these open/shared molds, a dense network of suppliers, agents, etc. Has anyone ever visited a factory? I guess this is the only way to find out where the frames are really made...?
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It gets confusing very quickly with all these open/shared molds, a dense network of suppliers, agents, etc. Has anyone ever visited a factory? I guess this is the only way to find out where the frames are really made...?
I just assume the supply chain looks like Charlie Kelly trying to figure out who Pepe Silvia is.
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https://youtu.be/86QUs4EdE9c?si=9G6tZdKPq3LOac-x
Interested in buying the frame and just found this video from Permeants. Thought some might be interested.
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more video from Permeants
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1mydZYWEB5/
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1K3VSzKEiK/
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LT uses open moulds, so you'll see the same frame offered elsewhere. Idk what Permeants is, but between tideace and LT, i'll take LT every day of the week. My daily driver is a LT 268.
Afaik, Asian body types usually means lower bikes with more reach (i guess on average Asians have shorter legs?). And the cycling population is young and demands aggressive bikes, whereas the west is getting old and people increasingly demand more relaxed geometries. That's my read of it anyway.
I havent looked closely at the 266 geo. I can tell you the 268 geo is better for me than an SL7/8 because it's more relaxed, while being fast, and it absolutely feels like a road bike.
Every message you post is about your LT268
I want one now ::)
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Every message you post is about your LT268
I want one now ::)
I think you mean half are about Longteng Bikes, and the other half are about XMCarbonSpeed ;D
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https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame
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Isn't it another the same as ltk266 product?
https://mondincecycle.com/product/details/id/6.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/details/id/6.html)
Someone opened a topic regarding this mondincecycle site. Seems they have also Tantan fm301/LT-Rd301 mold and minimalistic frame inspired by Aethos than can be found on Alibaba or AliExpress.
Did anyone hear something more about them? Seems that website was created this year.
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2025_aero_design_super_light_t47_bracket_road_bike_frame_fm106.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/2025_aero_design_super_light_t47_bracket_road_bike_frame_fm106.html)
https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_super_light_road_endurane_bike_frame_fm116.html (https://mondincecycle.com/product/2026_super_light_road_endurane_bike_frame_fm116.html)
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Chinese business model: everyone use the same factory for products, to save on R&D/manufacture cost, but compete with each other on brandings... do I get it right?
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Does anyone that owns this frame can share their experience in regards to ride feels and building the bike itself?
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Mine came in today. After I think it took 5 days to work out the order and 2 weeks to ship the frame, including the paint. It shipped UPS, which was fast, >1 week including customs clearance. Duties were not prepaid, but weren't too bad. Parts of the ordering process were slower or more manual than I would like, but Alisa was great, and her information so far has been accurate.
Box amusingly was one of the ones that had a rectangle on the outside to imply there was a TV inside. Packing was simple packed in foam and bubble wrap. The UDH is very skeletonized. I had asked a few others how they felt about the quality of the metal parts, and they indicated that they were typical of a Chinese factory (read: not great), but these largely seem fine.
Overall, I am pretty happy, though if I were to do it again, I might stick with a simple gloss finish rather than try a gloss and a matte, as I suspect they added the gloss on top of the matte finish, so the frame is a bit heavier than if it were gloss or matte. I will scope this later, as I have one, and I am likely to take at least a month to finish the build. Preliminary impressions are below.
(https://imgur.com/B2RnH71h.jpg)
Simple shapes with round tubes. Nothing fancy or aero here. Slight hourglass on the HT.
(https://imgur.com/T3HkEKSh.jpg)
The rear caliper mounts are finished, but not well. This is not quite flat. There is enough of what looks like a flat surface that I don't anticipate any problems, but noteworthy for the picky among us,
(https://imgur.com/tXU9uysh.jpg)
The paint is pretty even, though the carbon does show through slightly differently in different places. I think they added a tinting agent to mask some of the rough spots. Another reason why I suspect ordering a colored tint probably would have resulted in a similar weight.
(https://imgur.com/3mcQHbGh.jpg)
The bearing seats are darn near perfect. I dropped a couple of Cane Creek Hellbender headset bearings (52mm 36/45 ) into these, and they were a perfect fit with a Deda 36 degree C ring.
(https://imgur.com/OagNCF2h.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/f4Qrukhh.jpg)
Not minty fresh, but clean enough in terms of the seat tube.
(https://imgur.com/uiLwk7nh.jpg)
Fork seems standard fare. Its a carbon tube bonded to the fork structure. At that joint is a little less clean, but it's cleaner than an Open or 3T Fork, but messier than the Enve ones I've handled. Nothing to worry about and the carbon tube is even thickness, at least up top.
(https://imgur.com/wf5Kiloh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/YFzK1Ygh.jpg)
Some weights:
The frame is 789g. This includes the four bottle cage bolts + both hangers. Weighed without bolts (which I think would be the standard thing? Not sure?), it would be about 780g. This is heavier than i was hoping, but not by a lot and still within expectations. I think I goofed with the paint selection in terms of weight. I think they did the whole frame in matte and then added the gloss on top. I probably would have been just as happy selecting one or the other and saving the weight--even though this will not be a weight weenie build as it's intended to be a test mule for my 3d printed headset covers and other products.
(https://imgur.com/xD7MI8Nh.jpg)
Seatpost weights are more or less right on target too given this is a 400mm seatpost. The hardware is heavy, and the only miss I see spec-wise on this frame is here. I am not a fan of the black oxide bolt used here. That coating resists rust as long as its exposed to lubrication. Stainless is the right choice here. I will replace it with Ti anyway, given I am a light rider.
(https://imgur.com/CBGikPYh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/312rX6zh.jpg)
The seatpost clamp I don't love in terms of it being small and the fillet is a smaller radius than I would like, but it's there.
(https://imgur.com/Gnh4hODh.jpg)
Other than my own choices, I have very little to complain about with this transaction. It is pretty lightweight, and just based on this initial look it seems likely to be comparable to the Elilee Blize XXE, Seka Spear, and other premium Chinese frames. Yes, it's significantly heavier than something like the Scott Addict HMX SL or even the regular HMX, but right now don't have much to complain about.
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Again this super fiddly seatpost saddle clamp …
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Just received the same frame in a size small, very similar paint job - I basically copied INSVNX. Inside the frame is very clean no abnormality noted but I am not an expert. All the fibers are very clean and it looks like a true monocoque frame to me. Only one spot near the bottom bracket area where ?resin was applied. I didn’t weight it yet but it’s a size small as well. Will post more pictures and feedback when bike is built. Still waiting on XM integrated handlebar and wheelset. Tire clearance appears similar to my Roadmachine 01 2020 - I wouldn’t use this frame for gravel.
Ordered different 7x9 saddle clamps from NIUJI and UDH from Wolftooth as I didn’t like those that came with the bike.
Bottom bracket area
(https://i.imgur.com/sHrG3T7h.jpeg)
Put on wheels just to have an idea of what it will look like and what the slopes of the top tube is really like
(https://i.imgur.com/ilnb42Lh.jpeg)
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Just received the same frame in a size small, very similar paint job - I basically copied INSVNX. Inside the frame is very clean no abnormality noted but I am not an expert. All the fibers are very clean and it looks like a true monocoque frame to me. Only one spot near the bottom bracket area where ?resin was applied. I didn’t weight it yet but it’s a size small as well. Will post more pictures and feedback when bike is built. Still waiting on XM integrated handlebar and wheelset. Tire clearance appears similar to my Roadmachine 01 2020 - I wouldn’t use this frame for gravel.
Your paint job looks really good! I havent verified if the Ritchey hardware works perfectly on this bike per Alisa's claims. Hopefully the Niu Ju stuff works well. I love that shop and they do seem to do a great job with machined parts.
P.S., quick tip on using Imgur embeds: if you use "h.jpg" instead of ".jpeg" in your links, the images will be resized like mine, making it easier to scroll through. You can also use "m.jpg" or "s.jpg"
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Just received the same frame in a size small, very similar paint job - I basically copied INSVNX. Inside the frame is very clean no abnormality noted but I am not an expert. All the fibers are very clean and it looks like a true monocoque frame to me. Only one spot near the bottom bracket area where ?resin was applied. I didn’t weight it yet but it’s a size small as well. Will post more pictures and feedback when bike is built. Still waiting on XM integrated handlebar and wheelset. Tire clearance appears similar to my Roadmachine 01 2020 - I wouldn’t use this frame for gravel.
Ordered different 7x9 saddle clamps from NIUJI and UDH from Wolftooth as I didn’t like those that came with the bike.
Bottom bracket area
(https://i.imgur.com/sHrG3T7h.jpeg)
Put on wheels just to have an idea of what it will look like and what the slopes of the top tube is really like
(https://i.imgur.com/ilnb42Lh.jpeg)
This patch of resin reminds me the finish of a Winspace frame which people complained about it.
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Here is a picture of a Winspace frame that shows why there is a hole in the actual mold. It seems other manufacturers use a similar technique.
https://imgur.com/a/wjJDxRm
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So I broke out the inspection camera and took some shots of the inside of the frame.
Mostly they look like this:
(https://imgur.com/tGDwlIJh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/oRWe6lGh.jpg)
Super clean walls. This is the area that leads to drive side dropout. The brake mount side is cleaner. This looks pretty nice to me.
(https://imgur.com/532BkaGh.jpg)
There is a stray loose fiber by the hole for the FD cable and this one in the fork at the crown.
(https://imgur.com/E7FJHzuh.jpg)
There is a tiny bit of stray resin where the DS chainstay meets the BB, those two loose fibers, and that's about it. I generally don't take anything away from this, but FWIW, this does suggest the frame is EPS molded and that it was made with care.
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The tire clearance on this frame is good.
So far, on a spreadsheet, this frame is a winner. It's similar geo-wise to the Seka Spear RDC in their MR size.
I hope it rides well.
(https://imgur.com/tGo6Hkvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YJj2oR2h.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/PDa0bTLh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/pNZAbgfh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/JokzTKch.jpg)
With a 33mm WAM tire, I can fit an 8mm hex key in between both sides of the tire and the frame. My top of tire to inside of frame measurement isn't quite right since the tires are a bit wide for my calipers; it's closer to 15mm. Regardless, a 40mm slick tire should fit with ~4mm clearance, which is probably right for a road bike. The claim that a 35mm knobby tire can fit is spot on.
The big test will come when I ride it, but so far, it seems cleanly made, is 789g w/ all hardware (or ~740g without any / ~780g with bottle cage bolts removed) in a medium despite my paint goof, has loads of tire clearance, uses UDH, and reference internal cable routing geometries. So far its living up to my expectations as the frame I was waiting for.
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The tire clearance on this frame is good.
So far, on a spreadsheet, this frame is a winner. It's similar geo-wise to the Seka Spear RDC in their MR size.
I hope it rides well.
(https://imgur.com/tGo6Hkvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YJj2oR2h.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/PDa0bTLh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/pNZAbgfh.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/JokzTKch.jpg)
With a 33mm WAM tire, I can fit an 8mm hex key in between both sides of the tire and the frame. My top of tire to inside of frame measurement isn't quite right since the tires are a bit wide for my calipers; it's closer to 15mm. Regardless, a 40mm slick tire should fit with ~4mm clearance, which is probably right for a road bike. The claim that a 35mm knobby tire can fit is spot on.
The big test will come when I ride it, but so far, it seems cleanly made, is 795g w/ all hardware (or ~740g without any / ~780g with bottle cage bolts removed) in a medium despite my paint goof, has loads of tire clearance, uses UDH, and reference internal cable routing geometries. So far its living up to my expectations as the frame I was waiting for.
Have you got some time to make some rides ? The frame looks good even if it does not looks like very aero.
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Love this frameset, I think I might pick one up as a project bike for the winter. Is it inspired by any existing established bikes?
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Have you got some time to make some rides ? The frame looks good even if it does not looks like very aero.
No its not fully built yet. I am planning to swap some parts around including my prototype handlebar so there probably wont be pics of the build for a while or i will blur out the front end until i have the design final.
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Hello, does anyone with the frame have the possibility to install gravel tires? I would be interested to know what the maximum actually is.
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new chinertowner here --
i just ordered this frame in a large, green transparent glossy.
It checked all the boxes when it came to geo, weight, tire clearance, aesthetics for me.
With all the froth over aero bikes and the anticipation of a new model coming soon, I noticed that used Specialized Aethos with great componentry were also available where I am (USA) but I decided to do a full build from this frame, exactly to my spec. I plan to build this LT frame up with new SRAM Force, some farsports or equivalent wheels with ~25mm internal width (not sure on carbon vs steel spokes), and a pandapodium-tier integrated cockpit.
I'm coming from a BMC Teammachine SLR01 2015 -- full dura ace 11s rim brake with ENVE rims /chris king hubs, sub UCI without pedals. I love that bike so much but the 25mm tires are just untenable on the roads here in the northeast US, and I have been thinking of going disc+wider clearance for a while, for a forever bike I can travel with everywhere.
Will see how it goes and show it here in the thread (likely in a few months).
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what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless
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what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless
I got a size S and I am 170cm tall. Have not received the frame yet, but this was based on the geometry of my 54 CAAD 8 which i fitted to fit smaller.
HOWEVER, height is essentially meaningless. You can be the same heigh as me, but with longer arms and legs, and a shorter torso, and you might fit a size M instead. or vice versa. You can measure your current bike to have a starting point for geometry.
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what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless
what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless
The M is a fairly typical race bike geometry for a medium/54 bike (or an S if you are looking at a Canyon). It's close to SL8 Tarmac, but with a 1 degree slacker HTA so it will feel more stable. It is an identical fit to the Seka MR. Not that different than an M Madone.
The S is a typical race bike geometry. Matching closely to the Tarmac, Madone, V5Rs, etc.
I am ~169cm-170cm and bought a size M, but I have a specific component plan in mind for mine because I tend to fit my bikes long and with narrow bars. A size S would have been the right fit otherwise.
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what size frames did people order and how tall are they? i never purchased a bike just going by the geometry chart so its pretty meaningless
I'm 182cm and ordered a Large. Geo is very close to my BMC in size 56: same STA/HTA, same stack, just 4 mm shorter reach. I recommend using geometrygeeks or bikeinsights to compare with a bike you own or at least have ridden. Bikegeocalc can help you dial in the components aspect to see whether and how you might mirror the bike fit that works for you on this frame.
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how do you compare a gravel to a race bike though? the reach is similar but the stack is a lot lower, i have the kaze stampede 54 in this link but looking back id probably buy the 52 if i was to buy it again https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/kaze-stampede-2024-52,kaze-stampede-2024-54,longteng-266-20xx-s,longteng-266-20xx-m,light-carbon-lcr018-d-2025-540/
i have some carbon wheels on order and they are taking forever so im tempted to get a new frame as well since i never ride offroad
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You might need a better reference before deciding if this is the bike for you. I suggest demoing or riding some road bikes to get a better feel if a bike fit is out of the question.
My road "race" bike is 30mm lower stack with the same length reach as the gravel race bike I use for events like Unbound. However, my fit reflects the ability to fold myself into a relatively long and low position on both bikes, which is only sustainable as long as I remain very fit. This is typical for people who race both disciplines or at least race on gravel and train on the road. The difference lies mainly in the primary aero position being on the hoods on the road and more mixed between the hoods and the drops on gravel.
I think it's more common for enthusiasts to go 20-30mm longer (including stem length) and 10-20mm lower on their "fast" road bikes vs. their gravel bikes.
In addition to the stack and reach, the LTK266 might also be a problem for you in terms of saddle position. Both the M and the S have a much steeper seat tube angle and no option for a setback post, so it will position you further forward. Further forward and lower will likely make you much more aerodynamic but will also put more weight on your hands unless you are a fit rider who can sustain a relatively high power output for your weight.
The LCR018 is an example of the "newer" endurance bike geometries that are super short, allowing the rider to sit upright and put most of their weight through the saddle. It's recycling the geometry that was used for women's bikes in the 2010s (like Pinarello's Easy Fit line) and is still used by Liv. If you can find a Giant/Liv dealer near you, the Liv Langma in a size L is the closest bike to the 540 LCR018, followed by the Giant Defy in Size ML. This type of bike is ideal for many people who want to undertake long rides and prefer a more upright riding position.
Hope this helps!
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Hello Sakizashi,
How is your experience on riding this bike? Are you already riding it? I am interested on getting this frame since the geometry of S and M is typically a race bike but the design looks like normal compared to an all-around bike like R55D or LCR017D which are my choices. I'm looking to change my aero bike to an all-around bike because I live in a hilly area and I also want to use the bike for road racing (crits and local classics).
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I also wanted to order one, but unfornoturaly neither XL or XXL are available at the moment through lacking demand. :'(
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Hello Sakizashi,
How is your experience on riding this bike? Are you already riding it? I am interested on getting this frame since the geometry of S and M is typically a race bike but the design looks like normal compared to an all-around bike like R55D or LCR017D which are my choices. I'm looking to change my aero bike to an all-around bike because I live in a hilly area and I also want to use the bike for road racing (crits and local classics).
*sigh* no not riding it yet. I planned to get it done last weekend, but I didn't, so I'll wait until I get another costly metal print of my handlebar prototype in to finish it. Its staged to ship right now so might be this weekend.
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*sigh* no not riding it yet. I planned to get it done last weekend, but I didn't, so I'll wait until I get another costly metal print of my handlebar prototype in to finish it. Its staged to ship right now so might be this weekend.
Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!
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Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!
Will report on the Niu Ju clamp next week as I am about to receive it, but hardware looks the same and screw is the same length. You can ask Alisa for a 7x9 saddle clamp just in case.
Thru axles are:
M12xP1.0 168.5mm, measured by me: 18mm thread length
M12xP1.5 116mm, measured by me: 10mm thread length
Couldn’t find similar lightweight thru axles… let me know if you find some
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Will report on the Niu Ju clamp next week as I am about to receive it, but hardware looks the same and screw is the same length. You can ask Alisa for a 7x9 saddle clamp just in case.
Thru axles are:
M12xP1.0 168.5mm, measured by me: 18mm thread length
M12xP1.5 116mm, measured by me: 10mm thread length
Couldn’t find similar lightweight thru axles… let me know if you find some
Thanks! The closest I could find to what you measured are from carbon-ti, and are a bit outside my budget for now.
for the fork thru axle, what you measured appears to line up with the colnago model:
https://www.fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti-x-lock-evo-x-colnago-thru-axle.html
for the rear, https://www.fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti-x-lock-evo-rear-e-thru-thru-axle.html - in 168.7mm length (17mm thread length).
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Looking forward to the ride report! I have some questions about the metal parts you got to replace what came with the frame: For the seatpost hardware, you were able to use the aftermarket ritchey-style clamp from Niu Ju? I'm trying to figure out exactly what to order to replace the hardware with something lighter than can also work with 7x9 oval carbon saddle rails. Also, do you know what the thread pitch of the thru-axles is? I did order thru axles with the frame but plan to replace... Thanks for the help!
I didn't order the Niu Ju clamp. Just went to look for it and it looks like its sold out on Taobao. My frame included hardware for both round and carbon saddles.
I tested the seatpost with Ritchey hardware, and it does fit; it's also a lot less fiddly than the one that comes with the frame. Unfortunately, it is also heavier.
Regarding the thru axle, it's 116mmx1.5 on the front and 168.5mmx1.0 on the rear. The rear is not a covered dropout, so basically, any UDH-compatible 1.0 pitch road/gravel thru axle should work. The Colnago thru axle won't work since you need a flat interface, not a tapered one. A Giant TCR-compatible thru axle should fit on the front, and if it's a bit long, you can get a 1mm flat spacer/washer. I had a set of thru axles from the Robert Axle project in my parts bin, and with a spacer it's not a problem, and the threaded portion is long enough.
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I have seen these posted here before but don’t know if they’re any good…
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMu29Ov
Available in L168 M12x1.0 TL19, L117 M12x1.5 TL12…
Might be close enough?
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I havent seen this mentioned yet so I wanted to provide this info:
According to Alisa, both the front and rear flat mounts are designed to work with 160mm brake rotors.
I had thought that perhaps being lightweight the frame would be set up for 140mm, and I would need to buy adapters (the Force E1 groupset bundle comes with 160mm rotors).
If others have built up the bike to the point of mounting calipers and can confirm, that would be great, too.
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I am running a 140 rear 160 front with no issues.
However, I am not running the Hope RX4+ caliper i thought about installing and instead am running the new RX2 for a variety of reasons one of which is very tight clearance to the rear seatstay. This should not be an issue with sram calipers.
Also every retail box of SRAM levers and calipers ive ever had comes with the 160mm adapters.
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Such a pitty that it is not available in size XL and XXL, how can we convince them to produce them. Really want one so bad now
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I am running a 140 rear 160 front with no issues.
However, I am not running the Hope RX4+ caliper i thought about installing and instead am running the new RX2 for a variety of reasons one of which is very tight clearance to the rear seatstay. This should not be an issue with sram calipers.
Also every retail box of SRAM levers and calipers ive ever had comes with the 160mm adapters.
Running 140/160mm too. Build will soon be finished, just need to dial in the fit on the trainer… will report after.
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I am running a 140 rear 160 front with no issues.
However, I am not running the Hope RX4+ caliper i thought about installing and instead am running the new RX2 for a variety of reasons one of which is very tight clearance to the rear seatstay. This should not be an issue with sram calipers.
Also every retail box of SRAM levers and calipers ive ever had comes with the 160mm adapters.
Thanks, good to know. Ive never bought a full groupie before, just individual components, so I have no idea what to expect, yet I'm still trying to price things out.
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Thanks a lot guys, this is very useful information regarding LTK266-D-SL, Tideace FM-CR266 and Permeants ST-09 being identical! This also becomes apparent when comparing the frame geometries. Overall, the frame is very close the Tarmac SL7 except for the seat tube (15mm shorter on SL7) and the wheelbase (10mm shorter on SL7). I wonder if this is related to what they refer to as "geometric design is more suitable for Asian body types"?
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/longteng-266-20xx-m,tideace-fm-cr266-2025-m,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54/
It also appears to me that most posted frame and full build images must be rather small-sized frames, which is why some designs and builds might look a bit awkward.
Advice sought -
I'm looking to replace a TCR medium that I run with a 100mm stem, 80mm reach bar and 40mm spacers.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specalized-tarmc-sl8-2023-54,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54,giant-tcr-advanced-pro-disc-2022-m,longteng-266-20xx-m,longteng-266-20xx-l/
Medium would 1) require spacers possibly beyond a safe limit 2) have more toe overlap.
Downside of large has less exposed seatpost, a marginal unknown weight increase.
Bar and stem will be sized appropriately.
I should get the large, right?
Thanks!
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Any experience with their bars?
They offer two, just under 400g differing only by a conventional twin bolt or wedge based steerer clamp.
Both a scary cheap 85USD
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Any experience with their bars?
They offer two, just under 400g differing only by a conventional twin bolt or wedge based steerer clamp.
Both a scary cheap 85USD
Should be getting some in a week or two :). I think considering the price is without shipping it's comparable to AliX bars which are more expensive. Aliexpress also takes a 14% cut which raises prices
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Such a pitty that it is not available in size XL and XXL, how can we convince them to produce them. Really want one so bad now
If they start making this in xxl I will buy it. Alisa also told me they are not making it right now. But I dont know what could convince them to start making it..
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Advice sought -
I'm looking to replace a TCR medium that I run with a 100mm stem, 80mm reach bar and 40mm spacers.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specalized-tarmc-sl8-2023-54,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54,giant-tcr-advanced-pro-disc-2022-m,longteng-266-20xx-m,longteng-266-20xx-l/
Medium would 1) require spacers possibly beyond a safe limit 2) have more toe overlap.
Downside of large has less exposed seatpost, a marginal unknown weight increase.
Bar and stem will be sized appropriately.
I should get the large, right?
Thanks!
Get a large. Also just fyi the stack/reach numbers on geometry geeks for the LTK266DSL in size L is wrong -- it is 564/388 not 559/389
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Also just fyi the stack/reach numbers on geometry geeks for the LTK266DSL in size L is wrong -- it is 564/388 not 559/389
Thanks good-catch! But it turns out Geometry Geeks is correct... the LTK266-D was the heavier predecessor to the LTK266-D--SL with a press-fit BB86 which I found via archive.org and strangely has slightly different geometry.
https://ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/211.html
Per an exchange with Alisa:
"For the road model LTK266 , we have 2 versions , normal version and super light version . They're almost the same in shape , both all in one molding , there's no any joints on the frame . Normal old version has BB86 BB , new super light version has T47 BB and with UDH rear hanger , the price of super light version is $140/set higher than Old version . "
Damn-shame they adopted the t47 nonsense - adds a chunk of weight back for a worse design.
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Advice sought -
I'm looking to replace a TCR medium that I run with a 100mm stem, 80mm reach bar and 40mm spacers.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specalized-tarmc-sl8-2023-54,specialized-tarmac-sl7-2022-54,giant-tcr-advanced-pro-disc-2022-m,longteng-266-20xx-m,longteng-266-20xx-l/
Medium would 1) require spacers possibly beyond a safe limit 2) have more toe overlap.
Downside of large has less exposed seatpost, a marginal unknown weight increase.
Bar and stem will be sized appropriately.
I should get the large, right?
Thanks!
The large will be longer by about 7mm than your TCR. The reach measurement is taken at a higher stack. This probably is something you can manage either with a shorter or narrower bar, but something to keep in mind.
In terms of setting up the right saddle position the large is a better fit too for you as its more similar to the TCR and the 266 D SL comes with a zero offset post.
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Interesting... Anyone know of a good alternative direct mount UDH?
https://www.permeantsbikes.com/products/permeants-st-09-680g-super-lightweight-one-piece-road-disc-frame?variant=45491813875843
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Interesting... Anyone know of a good alternative direct mount UDH?
https://www.permeantsbikes.com/products/permeants-st-09-680g-super-lightweight-one-piece-road-disc-frame?variant=45491813875843
Alica confirmed they can't supply these.
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Interesting... Anyone know of a good alternative direct mount UDH?
https://www.permeantsbikes.com/products/permeants-st-09-680g-super-lightweight-one-piece-road-disc-frame?variant=45491813875843
Wheel MFG has one that's not crazy priced, unlike the Silca and Frames and Gears. There are also some on Aliexpress for $30.
Honestly, at S1250 incl. shipping and duties, the Permeants pricing isn't terrible given that it looks like it comes with a few extras I didnt get with my frame.
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Honestly, at S1250 incl. shipping and duties, the Permeants pricing isn't terrible given that it looks like it comes with a few extras I didnt get with my frame.
What are the extras that sweeten that deal? I haven't been hit with duties yet (Alisa has informed me the bike is all set and will ship out today or tomorrow) but mine netted out to $940 with paint job, some additions, freight to US, and paypal fees (see attachment). But I guess duties may well bring it up to that price. Can one do Permeants no logo?
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This is my frame. Check out the black Permeants frames in the background. Weird they can't/won't supply the direct mount hanger. Suggests to me they don't own/operate the Permeants brand.
Not sure what the silver/red/black bikes are.
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There are also some on Aliexpress for $30
Ordered one of https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008828610548.html. Will report back
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I haven't been hit with duties yet (Alisa has informed me the bike is all set and will ship out today or tomorrow) but mine netted out to $940 with paint job, some additions, freight to US, and paypal fees (see attachment).
Shipping is really fast to US. The frame was sent to the shipping company on Tuesday (9/2) and I received tracking information yesterday (9/4). It is scheduled to arrive to my home address in the Northeast US on Monday (9/8).
For the American lurkers: For the import, I am being charged just $55 dollars in government fees + a $14 processing fee ($69 total -- nice 8) ) from UPS. I paid through the UPS website pre-delivery with UPS MyChoice.
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This is my frame. Check out the black Permeants frames in the background. Weird they can't/won't supply the direct mount hanger. Suggests to me they don't own/operate the Permeants brand.
Not sure what the silver/red/black bikes are.
You ordered yours fully raw?
FWIW, pretty happy with mine, but I have not tried it on some light gravel / a cx-y type run to see how it feels on that stuff. Will have more complete thoughts (and pics) by this time next week, as I should have a few hundred miles on it by then.
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You ordered yours fully raw?
FWIW, pretty happy with mine, but I have not tried it on some light gravel / a cx-y type run to see how it feels on that stuff. Will have more complete thoughts (and pics) by this time next week, as I should have a few hundred miles on it by then.
Yes. Going to Cerakote it.
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Shipping is really fast to US. The frame was sent to the shipping company on Tuesday (9/2) and I received tracking information yesterday (9/4). It is scheduled to arrive to my home address in the Northeast US on Monday (9/8).
For the American lurkers: For the import, I am being charged just $55 dollars in government fees + a $14 processing fee ($69 total -- nice 8) ) from UPS. I paid through the UPS website pre-delivery with UPS MyChoice.
Arrived today as expected. In green glossy finish, the size L frame with UDH and front derailleur hanger installed comes in at 789grams. Uncut fork is 325 grams, seatpost minus clamp hardware is 96 grams. Impressive.
Wheels, cockpit, and groupset arrive later this week. Hope to have it ready to ride in a few weeks, after which I will report back.
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Question for those who have built up the LTK266: There was a split crown race included with the headset bearings, but it doesn't seem like the bike needs it. Did you use the included crown race?
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Question for those who have built up the LTK266: There was a split crown race included with the headset bearings, but it doesn't seem like the bike needs it. Did you use the included crown race?
Bije doenst need the seperate crown; fork has a build in crown race
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Hi friends, between the speeder scr55d, ltk 266dsl and spcycle r088, which one do you recommend for build quality and zero assembly problems?
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Will have more complete thoughts (and pics) by this time next week, as I should have a few hundred miles on it by then.
Any updates on the ride yet? I'm eager to hear others' thoughts -- I am starting the build today, just waiting for my crankset/cassette/bb to arrive tomorrow. I hope to be riding my frame by end of next week, with initial thoughts a week from today.
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Any updates on the ride yet? I'm eager to hear others' thoughts -- I am starting the build today, just waiting for my crankset/cassette/bb to arrive tomorrow. I hope to be riding my frame by end of next week, with initial thoughts a week from today.
Honestly, it's just a good bike to the point of being boring. Coming from my aggressive road bike, the bike feels slightly lazy, more like an SSE than a Tarmac SL8. The SL8 is a pretty calm performer IMO, so this is on trend with how most people want their bikes these days.
I've ridden it with my regular road wheels and Berd spoked wheels, and it feels very much like a higher-end carbon bike. It tracks through corners like it should, felt composed over rough pavement to the point that I didn't even think about it. I didn't notice any road buzz or anything coming in through the bars, though my bars are a 1.3kg chunk of 3d printed 17-4 steel, so YMMV with a carbon bar. On gravel, it does feel a little more nervous, but it is a road bike, so sending it down singletrack wasn't in the designer's intent. That said, gravel roads were similarly of little concern to me.
I haven't tried to measure aero, but it's similar in feel to most all-arounders, possibly a bit worse due to the concessions made for tire clearance. However, all of that is erased by an aggressive body position. I bought an M, and it's a pretty aggressive geometry compared to the rest of the range. The S compares favorably to the 52 SL8, the M is more aggressive than the 54 SL8, and the L is less aggressive than the 56 SL8. Another factor is that I am running a custom bar that is also low and long, a custom headset cover, and a -17 degree 130mm stem.
In terms of assembly, as others warned, the included saddle clamp hardware is awful. I have the Ritchey stuff and almost switched it out, but since the stock stuff was lighter, I decided to stick with it. The issue IMO is the rubber carrier and the two bottom portions of the cradle don't hold together. Fixing this would be easy TBH. All that is really needed is to make the holes in the rubber carrier smaller. Similarly, the rubber cover for the seat post clamp is an atrocity, and I would have preferred not to have had it supplied. The other "issue" is that the front wheel/hub doesn't have a strong resting place like it does on my other bikes. In other words, I can't just slot a wheel in w/o a thru axle and expect the bike to stay up if it's leaning against a wall or in a rear wheel stand. This is really not a big deal, just something I noticed.
This sounds like a downer review, but to me, it's the exact opposite. This bike is really good and really good at a lot of things, to the point where I didn't notice much about the bike because there weren't any apparent shortcomings. If you are looking for an aero-looking bike, this frame isn't it. If you are looking for a bike you can ride fast that builds up light, this is probably it.
Really looking forward to hearing what other people think of the frame, but I am impressed.
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I forgot to mention the killer feature of this frame. Tire clearance. I suspect most 38mm tires are a little bit too wide to meet the 6mm and the often cited 5.5mm is really close, but I suspect 38mm slicks or small knob tires will be what I end up running.
In terms of tires Ive tried:
- 32mm GP5k TL. Fits with 8mm of clearance on all sides. WAM is 33mm+.
- 36mm Challenge Strade Blanche Pros fit nicely with 6mm of clearance all around. I have these tires on hand as a reference, but wouldnt wish them on anyone. Hard to fit, easy to puncture.
- 40mm Hutchinson Caracal Race do not fit. There isnt enough clearance as they are 42mm WAM on the rims i tried.
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I forgot to mention the killer feature of this frame. Tire clearance. I suspect most 38mm tires are a little bit too wide to meet the 6mm and the often cited 5.5mm is really close, but I suspect 38mm slicks or small knob tires will be what I end up running.
In terms of tires Ive tried:
- 32mm GP5k TL. Fits with 8mm of clearance on all sides. WAM is 33mm+.
- 36mm Challenge Strade Blanche Pros fit nicely with 6mm of clearance all around. I have these tires on hand as a reference, but wouldnt wish them on anyone. Hard to fit, easy to puncture.
- 40mm Hutchinson Caracal Race do not fit. There isnt enough clearance as they are 42mm WAM on the rims i tried.
I'm still building up the components and cockpit, but just to see, I did put on my 9velo 50mm wheels (24mm internal width) with Michelin Pro5 35mm (WAM ~36-37) and there is a ton of clearance. Excited to see the difference in ridefeel from my current setup with 25mm GP5Ks (but otherwise near-identical frame geo). More soon.
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(https://imgur.com/uaDqFKLh.jpg)
Rival e1 levers, hope RX2 calipers. 1x using an old crank I had lying around, a ton of 3d printed parts. Stem is a 130mm Kalloy Uno -17. Also, the handlebar that I am going to keep blurred for now, since it's still being developed. It weighs 1.3kg+. The bike, including that chonker of a bar and the Look Xtrack carbon (steel axles), is just under 8kg.
With my DFS road wheels and 28mm tires, this bike weighs 7.7ish kg.
This is basically a test vehicle for parts I design, so it's built less to look good and more to be quickly taken apart and have parts swapped around.
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(https://imgur.com/uaDqFKLh.jpg)
Rival e1 levers, hope RX2 calipers. 1x using an old crank I had lying around, a ton of 3d printed parts. Stem is a 130mm Kalloy Uno -17. Also, the handlebar that I am going to keep blurred for now, since it's still being developed. It weighs 1.3kg+. The bike, including that chonker of a bar and the Look Xtrack carbon (steel axles), is just under 8kg.
With my DFS road wheels and 28mm tires, this bike weighs 7.7ish kg.
This is basically a test vehicle for parts I design, so it's built less to look good and more to be quickly taken apart and have parts swapped around.
Out of curiosity @Sakizashi
Are you using a FDM pseudo metal filament to make ridable prototype designs?
Or are we talking engineering filaments
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Out of curiosity @Sakizashi
Are you using a FDM pseudo metal filament to make ridable prototype designs?
Or are we talking engineering filaments
Everything that gets tested on a bike is production-ready, so it's all MJF printed or DMLS for metal. In my experience, you need costly FDM machines and excellent operators to create consistent enough prints for stuff like headset spacers if you want them to be safe in the long run. Adhesion, anisotropic properties, and voids are all problems that MFJ, as a process, seems to minimize vs. FDM or SLS.
Different nylons are used depending on expected loads and performance characteristics needed.
I use FDM for fit prototypes, as it minimizes the chance of a dimensional screwup on the final prints, but I still made a slight error on the aero chain keeper in the photo, as I can move the contact point back a little. It won't as neatly meet the curve of the shape, but it will use less material.
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What is that handle bar made of? lead?
Over 1.3kg?
Or is that just for prototyping?
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What is that handlebar made of? lead?
Over 1.3kg?
Or is that just for prototyping?
Lol, yeah, it's a functional prototype made of steel. I got nervous reading about void failures in 3D printed metal structures, so I over-spec'd it. The wall thickness is 2x what you use in terms of tubing.
The important part is that there is a pretty straightforward path to sub 6.5kg weight for this frameset, and with a little effort, sub 6kg is still possible, using mid-depth carbon rims.
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While on the topic of handlebars ... is there an easy way to figure out if the integrated cockpit from another manufacturer (ie: Lightcarbon's HBR17 or something similar off Aliexpress) is compatible with a frame from another brand ? (LTK266-D-SL in this case)
I don't really dig the handlebar (LT-HB09) offered by Longteng so I'm wondering what my options would be.
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My build of the LTK266-D-SL is now finished! Bedded in the brakes this afternoon, and will be going on a group ride tomorrow after which I will post photos and share more thoughts about the ride itself. But a few details about the build and process:
I built my size 56 green glossy frame up with new SRAM Force E1 groupset and drivetrain (2x 48/35 cranks, 10/33 cassette). Integrated bar stem is a Tavelo Avro 380/130, Ryet 3d printed saddle, 9velo LV WIDE Series wheels (50mm depth, 24mm internal width) with Michelin Pro5 35mm TLR tires, Assioma DUO pedals, Tacx bottle cages. Weighs in at 7.3KG with cages, pedals, outfront mount. Given that each of the tires weighs 400g, this could be sub7 just by going to 28mm GP5Ks. With carbon spokes and a shallower carbon hoop, sub UCI weight limit.
The build went well--this was my first full bike build after doing nearly all wrenching and maintenance myself the past couple years. I handled most everything despite never having dealt with hydraulic disk brakes or fully internal before (coming from 2015 rim and 11s di2 land) and frankly it wasn't bad. I went to the shop a few times for help, first for the cranks (E1 is TIGHT even with SRAM's own T47 DUB BB) and secondly for centering the rotors--the relevant part for you fellow chinertowners. Unfortunately it does seem that the facing on the flat mount caliper on the fork wasn't ideal. My trusty mechanic was able to make it work without me needing to face it, but I will be borrowing the Park Tool from a friend soon to fix it once and for all.
IN ADDITION: it seems that Alisa/LT sent me either the wrong, or just a crappy, headset. I was provided with two 40×52×7 36/45 and a useless crown race. I emailed Alisa and she claimed I was sent "40*51.8*8（36°*45°)" bearings -- but this wasnt the case. To make the tavelo barstem work, I bought an FSA ACR NO.55R 1.5in headset -- which did come with 40*51.8*8 36/45 bearings (as well as the much needed c-ring, supplied neither by LT nor by panda podium/tavelo), so I could see the difference. The FSA bearings were higher quality and had a different chamfer that interfaced better with the headtube. The ones sent by LT got stuck when I tried dropping them in and had to be pried out (52mm vs 51.8 perhaps?). Again, the frame itself was near perfect in terms of measurements (flat mount facing excepted). That I even thought I might have been able to use them with the FSA spacers from Tavelo was user error on my part, but basically I would advise against getting headsets from these OEMs and just order the spec that you know will play perfectly with your own components.
I am very happy with the bike. The challenges with the headset and fork flat mount were bumps in the road which I attribute in part to my own inexperience with doing the China bike thing. I will try to write up my initial thoughts on the ride soon and send some pictures.
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While on the topic of handlebars ... is there an easy way to figure out if the integrated cockpit from another manufacturer (ie: Lightcarbon's HBR17 or something similar off Aliexpress) is compatible with a frame from another brand ? (LTK266-D-SL in this case)
I don't really dig the handlebar (LT-HB09) offered by Longteng so I'm wondering what my options would be.
I would get an FSA NO.55 headset and then ask the handlebar maker for an FSA compatible adapter. FSA headsets are the most common so most companies make adapters, including Light Carbon.
The FSA kits are the going to be the way to go for most people. Replacement spares split spacers and C rings can be sourced in most places.
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I haven't tried to measure aero, but it's similar in feel to most all-arounders, possibly a bit worse due to the concessions made for tire clearance. However, all of that is erased by an aggressive body position. I bought an M, and it's a pretty aggressive geometry compared to the rest of the range. The S compares favorably to the 52 SL8, the M is more aggressive than the 54 SL8, and the L is less aggressive than the 56 SL8. Another factor is that I am running a custom bar that is also low and long, a custom headset cover, and a -17 degree 130mm stem.
Whats your size? I'm still unsure about the size because the difference between M and L is so huge! I think I'm a clear 54 or M (Canyon, etc.) for most frames! But I'm not sure about this! I'm about 180cm tall, but only have an inside leg length of 84.5cm. In this case im looking more to the L frame! Also Alisa recommended L!
And by the way: Are there any experiences with the 2 cockpits?
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first for the cranks (E1 is TIGHT even with SRAM's own T47 DUB BB)
Can you elaborate exactly what you mean by 'tight' here? Did you need the single supplied spacer with the SRAM BB? I've got the same combination ready to go when my frame arrives.
Thanks!
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Whats your size? I'm still unsure about the size because the difference between M and L is so huge! I think I'm a clear 54 or M (Canyon, etc.) for most frames! But I'm not sure about this! I'm about 180cm tall, but only have an inside leg length of 84.5cm. In this case im looking more to the L frame! Also Alisa recommended L!
And by the way: Are there any experiences with the 2 cockpits?
I am 170cm, but dont use my sizing on this frame as a reference. I am sizing up from what i would normally buy for length knowing I can get the stack down because I am using so many prototype/custom parts. Not only am I slamming my stem with a -17 using a custom headset cover you can also see that I am getting lower due to my lever position too.
I would guess that compared to a stock setup from Deda or FSA i am 40-45mm lower.
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I would get an FSA NO.55 headset and then ask the handlebar maker for an FSA compatible adapter. FSA headsets are the most common so most companies make adapters, including Light Carbon.
The FSA kits are the going to be the way to go for most people. Replacement spares split spacers and C rings can be sourced in most places.
This is what I did -- FSA no55 headset + Tavelo Bar-stem + Tavelo-supplied FSA adapter/spacers. Worked great.
Can you elaborate exactly what you mean by 'tight' here? Did you need the single supplied spacer with the SRAM BB? I've got the same combination ready to go when my frame arrives.
Thanks!
What I mean is that it is a b*tch to fit the nondriveside crank and spindle through the SRAM DUB T47 internal bb. This has nothing to do with the frame itself--just the way the SRAM components fit together. And yes I did need the single 3mm external driveside spacer. Given the chainstays/tire clearance it's needed for the fit on the LTK266. Now that it is set up it works perfectly. But I needed help to get it installed.
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Would be my first road bike after cycling thousands of kilometers on my trekking bike. Could L work for 187, with for my height long legs and short torso. This Chinese geometry talk terrefys me. The only bike the a shop let me try was a giant defy in M (m/l felt too large), any suggestions on how to proceed. Thanks a lot
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I think there are people on here who have literally the opposite idea of what a “chinese” or “Asian fit” bike is. Also remember that some western brands include their headset cover in the frame stack and reach numbers. None of these brands do.
The Asian fits are typically shorter reach at the same stack. Thats the theory. That said, this bike is a race bike meant to match up against bikes like the Tarmac SL8, Giant TCR and the Seka Spear.
A Defy is the wrong comp since thats an endurance bike not a race bike.
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My build of the LTK266-D-SL is now finished!
I took the bike out for a 2 hour team ride this morning here in the Northeast US. Photo attached, plus photos of the two BMC bikes that are my points of comparison. To be honest, I have to 100% echo Sakizashi:
Honestly, it's just a good bike to the point of being boring. Coming from my aggressive road bike, the bike feels slightly lazy.
This sounds like a downer review, but to me, it's the exact opposite. This bike is really good and really good at a lot of things, to the point where I didn't notice much about the bike because there weren't any apparent shortcomings. If you are looking for an aero-looking bike, this frame isn't it. If you are looking for a bike you can ride fast that builds up light, this is probably it.
He is so right, though to some degree I attribute this in part to running fat ass tires, as I am coming from putting 16K km over a yearish on a bike with exactly the same geo. The LTK266 just isn't that exciting I guess, but it is so so good at what it does. And I have to remind myself that that's why I bought it and built it up the way I did -- around running 36ish WAM slicks @ 50psi, yet still having a markedly lightweight bike just over 7kg. That it is so smooth and controlled is quite jarring coming from a decade old race/climber rim brake bike, but on my local roads it is a blessing and then some.
But the other thing is, the bike feels really stiff. I do not know how much this is due to the bars and wheels, too. Way stiffer than the 2015 BMC with 2015 35mm ENVE hoops, which is my reference point. Perhaps the LTK's stiffness would be jarring with skinny high pressure tires, but because I'm making use of the 35C clearance, it all evens out, and makes the bike very responsive, but not twitchy or chattery at all.
A month ago I rented a BMC Kaius 01 Three -- a race oriented gravel bike with very long reach and only 44 WAM clearance -- to do some gravel riding mostly on strade bianche type roads in southern Vermont (though also a little class 4 mixed in, which I wouldn't advise; I don't like being underbiked). It was fitted with SRAM Rival and 40mm Pirelli Cinturatos. The LTK feels very reminiscent of the Kaius in certain respects, but without the gravel geo and the extra weight. I'd put the similar feeling down, again, to it having SRAM componentry and similar width tubeless tires. Maybe once I put some more time in and get used to the Longteng, it will be something of the best of both worlds: The geo of the teammachine but the versatility and comfort of the Kaius. Pretty psyched tbh
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For fun here is a photo of the LTK266-D-SL size 56 alongside the 2015 BMC Teammachine SLR01 -- to see why I keep bringing it up, and also why I bought the LTK because it matches something I know works for me.
This might be helpful for those with misgivings about "asian fit geometry" on the one hand, or thinking the LTK is at all comparable to an endurance bike. It's not either of those things and can't really be considered on those terms -- at least in an L/56
The two bikes have identical stack, identical head and seat tube angles, only 5mm difference in reach and effective top tube. The LTK is a (slightly relaxed) race bike. The modern comps in terms of geo are, as Sakizashi has said, something like the Cannondale SSE or the BMC TM01 -- whereas the Scott Addict RC and Tarmac SL8 are, at least in my size, more aggressive. The added value of the LTK is the clearance (oh...and the price) if you can stomach doing without aero shaping of any kind. I've never had aero shaping, so I don't miss it.
P.S. plz forgive the spacers; the LTK steerer tube is getting chopped down to match its older brother sometime next week.
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inspired by the scott collor approach! thoughts about this? the upper half white glossy...rest carbon glossy!
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inspired by the scott collor approach! thoughts about this? the upper half white glossy...rest carbon glossy!
i love the scott addict rc colorway; I think that would look really good -- but maybe carbon matte instead of glossy
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i love the scott addict rc colorway; I think that would look really good -- but maybe carbon matte instead of glossy
Would you prefer my idea or the original Scott? I'd like the carbon like the one in the picture Alisa sent me! Is it matte or glossy? I'll ask her.
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But the other thing is, the bike feels really stiff. I do not know how much this is due to the bars and wheels, too. Way stiffer than the 2015 BMC with 2015 35mm ENVE hoops, which is my reference point. Perhaps the LTK's stiffness would be jarring with skinny high-pressure tires, but because I'm making use of the 35C clearance, it all evens out, and makes the bike very responsive, but not twitchy or chattery at all.
I had this question today too, having done a workout on my Ti Road Bike and then taken this one out. It's hard to compare them since the Ti bike is lower than my 266SL iand has a different front-to-rear weight balance, but I think the Ti bike feels slightly smoother over bricks and cobbles. It did not feel like a clear notion, just a fleeting thought. I will say that the 266SL feels fantastic when accelerating, but I don't weigh very much, while my sprint packs a punch for a little guy, it's nothing to write home about.
I did swap the wheels, so I was running the same tires and pressures.
I also did a back-to-back mostly relaxed ride on this vs. a Pinarello F12, and I don't feel like this frame misses that much in terms of how it feels. The aero stuff I can't really compare, since my riding position is so much more aero than the more traditional position used by the F12's owner, that it completely drowns out any frame differences.
The more relevant question, though, is whether this bike feels better than a contemporary bike from Velobuild or the other lower-cost frames or something a little more expsnive like the Speeder SC55. I can't assess either.
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Pretty light unpainted!
I have the same patch in the bottom bracket and you can see it's been patched from the outside.
The bars are chunky - 420g. I'm going to be running Bontrager RSR VR-C Aeolus bars but for $80 figured I may as well have a set... I'm sure they'll get used for something at some point.
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Per others' experience the supplied headset doesn't fit >:(
The conical/c-spacer centreing spacer and bearing are just about proud of the top of the frame, however the top cap has a 1mm recess.
Both bearings measure 51.78 * 8 with what appears to be a 45 external and 36 internal.
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Sheesh. Thats bad.
If you didnt have the bar, I would just recommend pitching that headset and asking for a refund rather than having them ship out a new part.
If you have this frame and need help with integration DM me. I have a very limited number (3) of Deda C rings that should fit these stock bearings as well headset cover/ adapter designs that work with the FSA No. 55 headset or a 45/45 upper bearing. If I already have the part designed I will sell it to you for a steep discount. I probably wont take on jobs like integrating a Trek bar tho.
This frame is too good to be stuck waiting for parts or for want of an integration solution.
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Sheesh. Thats bad.
If you didnt have the bar, I would just recommend pitching that headset and asking for a refund rather than having them ship out a new part.
I'm not too concerned about the 12USD as I'd intended to replace it with a better/lighter assembly in any case and just bought it so I'd know the correct size...
If you have this frame and need help with integration DM me. I have a very limited number (3) of Deda C rings that should fit these stock bearings as well designs that work with the FSA No. 55 headset or a 45/45 upper bearing.
Are you referring to one of these "HDCOMPRACR COMPRESSION RING for ACR headset, 36°×45°, PA66":?
https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_s-dcr_headsets_spare_parts.pdf (https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_s-dcr_headsets_spare_parts.pdf)
If I already have the part designed I will sell it to you for a steep discount.
What bit have you designed? Curious/confused ;-)
This frame is too good to be stuck waiting for parts or for want of an integration solution.
I need to paint (or rather Cerakote) the thing first...
Thanks!
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https://shop.windwave.co.uk/spare-parts/headset-bearings/fsa-th-073r-112-518mm-3645-sl-alloy-acb-headset-bearing-red__6230
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I'm not too concerned about the 12USD as I'd intended to replace it with a better/lighter assembly in any case and just bought it so I'd know the correct size...
Are you referring to one of these "HDCOMPRACR COMPRESSION RING for ACR headset, 36°×45°, PA66":?
https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_s-dcr_headsets_spare_parts.pdf (https://dedaelementi.com/media/catalog/product/attachment//d/c/dcr_s-dcr_headsets_spare_parts.pdf)
What bit have you designed? Curious/confused ;-)
I need to paint (or rather Cerakote) the thing first...
Thanks!
Oops. Headset covers and adapters. FSA, EXS, Enve, Kalloy Uno, the Tarmac stem are all options. Generally, these are designed to be really low stack, but spacers can be used on a lot of these.
Offer isn't just for you ;), but DM for more details, I dont want to derail this thread from its intended purpose.
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I'm not too concerned about the 12USD as I'd intended to replace it with a better/lighter assembly in any case and just bought it so I'd know the correct size...
Exactly my thinking. I thought well, $12, that's fine to see what should fit the frame. But then they sent me different bearings from you, a useless crown race, and no c-ring or dustcap at all! As someone new to bike building, confusion of ill fitting bearings, and then the stress of waiting for the FSA headset to be delivered and anxiously hoping it would work, was worse than the $12 loss. All good in the end, though!
As I mentioned in a previous post the FSA ACR no55 headset works perfect. $55 well spent, I guess. I also briefly dropped in Deda stuff for 1 1/2 - 1 1/8 fully integrated when over at a friend's place to get the steerer cut and that seemed fine too.
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Looking at this again, I reckon the bottom bearing is too tall.. check out my earlier photo. Looks like a 7mm bearing would be better.
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Looking at this again, I reckon the bottom bearing is too tall.. check out my earlier photo. Looks like a 7mm bearing would be better.
Are you sure it's too tall, or the outer chamfer is too shallow? The FSA bearings I used appeared to have significantly more depth (3mm out of total 8mm) to the outer 45 degree chamfer than those supplied by LT, which made the FSA ones fit better on the 45 degree sloping parts of the inside of the headtube, rather than sit on top of it. See the attached spec doc from FSA to see what I mean--namely the blueprint of the headtube itself.
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Update after slamming the stem to match my previous bike's position, and doing a 90 minute solo where I could really pay attention to feel. This was an object lesson in how much fit matters. I didn't realize how uncomfortable I was with the extra 30mm of spacer stack and how much that was affecting my sense of the bikes handling.
As I settle in and get used to the LTK266-D-SL, it is starting to wow me. The only thing I'm missing right now is a certain snap of acceleration, and I attribute that almost entirely to the change in tires. If it had 30mm GP5k mounted instead of these Michelin Pro5 35mm comfy boys, I doubt it would miss a beat. Having tires that are each +~180g and doing group rides with surges was not a good test. After a solo, the LTK is showing how comfortable, responsive, and confidence-inspiring it is. OK, enough from me now. Excited to see other people's builds and just chime in if people have issues. Long term review next year.
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Update after slamming the stem to match my previous bike's position, and doing a 90 minute solo where I could really pay attention to feel. This was an object lesson in how much fit matters. I didn't realize how uncomfortable I was with the extra 30mm of spacer stack and how much that was affecting my sense of the bikes handling.
As I settle in and get used to the LTK266-D-SL, it is starting to wow me. The only thing I'm missing right now is a certain snap of acceleration, and I attribute that almost entirely to the change in tires. If it had 30mm GP5k mounted instead of these Michelin Pro5 35mm comfy boys, I doubt it would miss a beat. Having tires that are each +~180g and doing group rides with surges was not a good test. After a solo, the LTK is showing how comfortable, responsive, and confidence-inspiring it is. OK, enough from me now. Excited to see other people's builds and just chime in if people have issues. Long term review next year.
Looks great except for the water bottles. They bother my inner monk.
How tall are you and what's your inseam? A 130mm stem is pretty decent!
I actually wanted to order the Longteng cockpit as well, since it's relatively cheap, but it's only available in 90*380 or 100*400.
I think at 1.80m, I'll need a 100!
Oh yeah, I was in touch with Alisa today, and apparently they have the right headset for the frame now! I asked her about the two problem cases here!
Now I just have to decide on my design! Either Scott-like or with a purple touch!
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Looks great except for the water bottles. They bother my inner monk.
How tall are you and what's your inseam? A 130mm stem is pretty decent!
I actually wanted to order the Longteng cockpit as well, since it's relatively cheap, but it's only available in 90*380 or 100*400.
I think at 1.80m, I'll need a 100!
New bottles are on the way! I promise they will match ;D
I'm just shy of 183cm/86cm. I'm a bit like @patliean1 (though I run my seat a little lower, 76cm): I have no trouble doing 4 hours rides with a long slammed stem. On my BMC (reminder: same stack as LTK 56) I was running a 120mm/-17 degree stem over a 16mm dustcap (380mm bars). For new bike, I wanted to be better able to get into the hoods aero position while still keeping my hands on the brake levers--not only resting palms on top of the hoods. Knowing the LTK frame had about 5mm less reach and had a 0mm offset seat post (and I was coming from 15mm offset seatpost) I decided to go with a 130mm/-10 stem and likely slam it. I used this tool http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php to think through the stem length decision and https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ to put the different stem lengths in context of all the other frame measurements and contact points to facilitate transferring the fit over.
But I don't know if my basic body measurements relative to my position are a great guide for anyone, including me.
100/400 may very well work great for you. It could also leave you feeling cramped. Or it could leave you stretched out! And the number of spacers under the bar will make a considerable difference in the effective reach, as will saddle setback and saddle to bar drop. EDIT: oh yeah and the bar width, throw that in, too.
If you don't have a good idea for the cockpit setup you will need, I highly recommend getting separate bar and stem and experimenting with different cheap aluminum stems of varying lengths and degrees. That's what I did over about a year period, during which I also biked a lot and slowly increased my ability to hold an aggressive position -- going from 110/-7 to 120/-7 to 120/-17 and also dropping the stem about 10 or 15mm to the lowest it could go with the included BMC proprietary dust cap. It may hurt your inner monk to not go immediately to fully internally routed cables, but if you goal is dialing in your position to minmax comfort, watts, and CDA, well....
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Are you sure it's too tall, or the outer chamfer is too shallow? The FSA bearings I used appeared to have significantly more depth (3mm out of total 8mm) to the outer 45 degree chamfer than those supplied by LT, which made the FSA ones fit better on the 45 degree sloping parts of the inside of the headtube, rather than sit on top of it. See the attached spec doc from FSA to see what I mean--namely the blueprint of the headtube itself.
I've just taken a closer look. I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.
I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45. I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid.
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I should also add - although this a red-herring at this juncture - that I couldn't measure a difference between a genuine FSA MR127 and the supplied bearing. But seeing as LT appears to be pulling bearings out of a hat we probably don't have the same bearings.
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I've just taken a closer look. I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.
I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45. I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid.
Huh. But isn't that crown race supposed to fit a 36-degree bearing?
I will disassemble mine to check and see what is going on later this week, but I used a 45/36 bearing, and it's been holding the preload and everything, with no issues. I also checked to see how the bearings seated, and I was fairly certain that the 45/45 did not seat correctly.
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The separate (unnecessary) 36 crown race fits the LT bearing (and the genuine FSA) perfectly. As the angle is steeper on the bearing than the fork's moulded race then the lower edge of the bearing will sit square but the load is only an annular point contact.
Of course you may have a 45/45 bearing... Easy to check with a credit-card
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I used my own bearings from a box I had of Cane Creek bearings. I will double-check this as well, but the upper part of the cone interface is a match for the crown race to me.
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I've just taken a closer look. I don't think a 45/36 bearing is correct for the fork-crown at all which is why it's riding high.
I put the superfluous 36 crown-race on for comparison and you can clearly see the fork crown is 45. I don't think it's safe to ride that with a 36 bearing, I'm afraid.
Sorry i think my message was more about the top bearing interface But like @sakizashi ive had no problems with a 36/45 bottom bearing in terms of preload etc. How about put the bearing on it without the crown race? I dont understand what the ill fitting crown race is supposed to show.
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Sorry i think my message was more about the top bearing interface But like @sakizashi ive had no problems with a 36/45 bottom bearing in terms of preload etc. How about put the bearing on it without the crown race? I dont understand what the ill fitting crown race is supposed to show.
I used my own bearings from a box I had of Cane Creek bearings. I will double-check this as well, but the upper part of the cone interface is a match for the crown race to me.
For the avoidance of doubt, I was only referring to the lower bearing.
The separate crown race is just in the photo to illustrate the angle difference of the two seats although the angled section on the separate race so small I could be wrong.
That said I've just checked the conical c-shaped compression ring and that too is 45. What a shambles! N.b. unlike the fork, you may have a different ring.
I've taken a better photo of the fork crown... I'm pretty convinced that's 45
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Put a very thin layer of grease on the 45/36 bearing and fit it. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and repeat with the 45/45. Should ba able to tell which one is the right fit based on the grease smudge. I am fairly certain I did that, but they are close enough that I could have made a mistake and maybe Alisa’s info is wrong.
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Put a very thin layer of grease on the 45/36 bearing and fit it. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and repeat with the 45/45. Should ba able to tell which one is the right fit based on the grease smudge. I am fairly certain I did that, but they are close enough that I could have made a mistake and maybe Alisa’s info is wrong.
Indeed, I would use that method if I had a 45 to hand...
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What's the risk here if my FSA bearing is 'wrong' for the fork taper? I am loath to drop the fork and have to redo all the cabling through bar and headset..
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I think this is more than I want to take on today. Really kicking myself for not putting on hydraulic couplers on this frame. It’s literally the only frame I have that I didnt do that for since I figured I would be bleeding this bike every time I changed things around anyway.
I will do this tomorrow unless someone else beats me to it.
Edit: I also contacted Alisa to see if she can have someone confirm with the drawings.
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Suggest you hold-off until I get a 45 bearing. Going to try and next-day order one today
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At work and just realised I didn't measure the id of the seats to determine whether 51.8/9/52 od bearing would best fit.
I put little store in assuming 51.8 solely based on what was supplied.
Anyone?
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At work and just realised I didn't measure the id of the seats to determine whether 51.8/9/52 od bearing would best fit.
I put little store in assuming 51.8 solely based on what was supplied.
Anyone?
Anything 52mm to 51.8 mm is considered compliant with the IS52 standard for headsets. I would get the 51.8mm since that is what the official spec is. Alisa confirmed that it should be 40 x 51.8 x 8mm（36°/45°). I am 90% sure that it's also the correct bearing, as I checked, and that the difference is just hard to see due to the curvature of the crown race. I still plan on doing this later today. I would only need to rebleed the front brake.
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I just tried making a 36 and a 45 gauge with some old plastic cards. I honestly can't tell which it is! It's such a small section to measure.
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OK, so tried out a few bearings. The 45° ones sit higher on the crown race. I think this indicates to me that the 36° is the correct bearing, as it's the bottom edge, not the top edge of the chamfer, that's limiting the wrong size bearing. My grease trick didn't work as well as I had hoped. That said, the bike visually looks the same from the outside with the 40x52x7mm 45°/45° vs. 40x51.8x8mm 36°/45°
The one that is obviously wrong is 40x52x8mm 45°/45°. I am going to assume that Alisa's information is correct and that the headset parts some of you received were incorrect. The correct bearing set should then be the FSA No. 55R
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Hello,
I am considering buying an LTK266-D-SL in size L. I would like to use it as a road bike for long distances but als a few faster group rides (40+ kph). I am 183 cm tall and have an inseam of 84 cm.
I currently ride a Carbonda CFR707 in M.
74 cm saddle height
94 mm saddle setback
90 mm stem
My racing bike is a Pinarello Prince 54.5 with rim brakes, and I want the LTK to replace the Prince.
I would like to ride the LTK with a 100 mm Deda Alanera RS. I think that would be about right.
How much setback do you ride? Is there a seat post with setback?
Which Ritchey part did you replace the LTK seat post with? Does anyone have a link?
How satisfied are you with the quality? In some pictures you can see a void in the carbon. Does anyone ride a Carbonda and can compare the quality?
Regarding the headset:
I would use an FSA No55 at the bottom.
At the top, however, I have to use the DEDA DCR headset, otherwise it won't fit the stem.
Thank yopu!
Kind regards from germany
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Would be interested in that as well.
Also greetings from Germany ;)
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OK, so tried out a few bearings. The 45° ones sit higher on the crown race. I think this indicates to me that the 36° is the correct bearing, as it's the bottom edge, not the top edge of the chamfer, that's limiting the wrong size bearing. My grease trick didn't work as well as I had hoped. That said, the bike visually looks the same from the outside with the 40x52x7mm 45°/45° vs. 40x51.8x8mm 36°/45°
The one that is obviously wrong is 40x52x8mm 45°/45°. I am going to assume that Alisa's information is correct and that the headset parts some of you received were incorrect. The correct bearing set should then be the FSA No. 55R
my sense of relief is immeasurable :o I was pretty confident it was the FSA bearings that were correct, but the uncertainty sewed by @contraptions was tearing said confidence asunder. Thank you so much @Sakizashi for doing this testing!
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Hello,
I am considering buying an LTK266-D-SL in size L. I would like to use it as a road bike for long distances but als a few faster group rides (40+ kph). I am 183 cm tall and have an inseam of 84 cm.
I currently ride a Carbonda CFR707 in M.
74 cm saddle height
94 mm saddle setback
90 mm stem
My racing bike is a Pinarello Prince 54.5 with rim brakes, and I want the LTK to replace the Prince.
I would like to ride the LTK with a 100 mm Deda Alanera RS. I think that would be about right.
How much setback do you ride? Is there a seat post with setback?
Which Ritchey part did you replace the LTK seat post with? Does anyone have a link?
How satisfied are you with the quality? In some pictures you can see a void in the carbon. Does anyone ride a Carbonda and can compare the quality?
Regarding the headset:
I would use an FSA No55 at the bottom.
At the top, however, I have to use the DEDA DCR headset, otherwise it won't fit the stem.
Thank yopu!
Kind regards from germany
1. I will start with the headset -- You seem to know this, but to be clear for everyone lurking: you can get the DEDA DCR package with a 36/45 bottom bearing -- https://dedaelementi.com/headset-dcr (look at the spec sheet) -- and this should work perfectly well based on my (brief) testing.
2. LTK vs Prince -- https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/pinarello-prince-fx-disk-2021-545,longteng-ltk-266-d-sl-2025-l/ measurements look pretty damn close! So you shouldn't have much of a problem transferring your fit. I have similar measures with slightly longer inseam. I run a much longer stem but that's all preference and individual fit.
3. The LTK266-D-SL only comes with a zero offset seatpost. I run a similar setback to you, and I was coming from a 15mm offset post on my BMC. On the LTK I had to move my seat back on the rails to compensate, but I was still able to keep a 90mm-100mm setback. I am currently experimenting with that, though, because on the BMC hardware, I didn't have room to experiment with a position any further forward than ~90.
4. Cannot speak to replacing the saddle clamp parts. I made sure Alisa included clamps for 7x9 carbon rails, but I'm still using the same hardware. The single bolt design is a drag and the stuff is somewhat heavy, but I couldn't find a better replacement. It's the design itself that sucks, not necessarily the parts?
5. Will let those more knowledgeable in china carbon speak to frame quality comparisons. The thing rides great.
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my sense of relief is immeasurable :o I was pretty confident it was the FSA bearings that were correct, but the uncertainty sewed by @contraptions was tearing said confidence asunder. Thank you so much @Sakizashi for doing this testing!
Yes, thanks you very much and I apologise for the concern caused.
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Thanks for the info!
Does anyone here ride a white frame?
I'm thinking of buying a white and purple one, similar to the Scott model.
Would you like to post your bikes?
Thanks and best regards!
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Yes, thanks you very much and I apologise for the concern caused.
No worries, it's a legitimate concern, and honestly, it's tough to tell the difference. I also had the same question during assembly, as a 36° molded CR isn't common, IME. However, I'm not familiar with too many factory-direct frames, so my references are mostly branded. Based on my review and confirmation from Alisa three times (she sent another note this morning), I am confident that the 40x51.8x8mm 36°/45° is the correct bearing.
Which Ritchey part did you replace the LTK seat post with? Does anyone have a link?
I am the guy who briefly fitted a Ritchey part. I ended up not using it because it was heavier. I also swapped out the stock bolt for a ti M6x55 one. I am a pretty light-weight rider, so that doesn't worry me. The Ritchey part is this one, and yes, it does work a lot better because the rubber thing stays in place and keeps the assembly together when loosening and adjusting it.
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/seatposts/wcs-carbon-1-bolt-seatpost-complete-clampset?srsltid=AfmBOopf1lEDFlrBYhQ3s_K5hoSOPoE2WTMgrDv44HcwRXlHfPWDh3SU
I would use an FSA No55 at the bottom.
At the top, however, I have to use the DEDA DCR headset, otherwise it won't fit the stem.
I'm not sure if you have any spares that came with the Alanera, but what you need is a Deda ACR C ring. This should have been in the box. Otherwise, they are like 5 euros from Deda or a Deda distributor. These are Grey in color and says 36°x45° on them. You put that on top of the FSA or other 40x51.8x8mm 36°/45° bearing and you should be good to go. I think Deda uses a universal design for their headset covers between the different fitments, but that's worth checking, as the 36° and 45° setups vary by about 0.5mm or so.
You can also use the Deda bearing for the upper part of the headset. That bearing is 40x51.8x8mm 45°/45° and should be paired with their black C ring. Either solution should work.
Hello,
How satisfied are you with the quality? In some pictures, you can see a void in the carbon. Does anyone ride a Carbonda and can compare the quality?
Ive had a couple of open molds from Flybike/Carbonda as well as a branded frame from Flybike. This bike is much nicer than those were, particularly in terms of not being too stiff in the rear while still being laterally stiff around the BB. That said, my last frame from them was a gravel bike purchased in 2018 and retired in 2024, so I don't know much about their current models.
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Hi there,
I am close to pulling the trigger here (X68 and R088 are the other options I am havin on my mind). Any recommendations here?
For the LTK266-D-SL - Is there any whatsapp contact or is the best way to jsut inquire through the long teng website?
How much was frame + handlebar for you?
Thank you very much :)
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For the LTK266-D-SL - Is there any whatsapp contact or is the best way to jsut inquire through the long teng website?
I emailed with Alisa: longtengalisa@163.com
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Hi there,
How much was frame + handlebar for you?
The base price was $610 USD + shipping + taxes, etc., for the frame—no idea on the handlebars.
While I get the bling factor of a one-piece, the LTK options are heavy and lacking. The cheap headsets LTK has supplied have also been a problem for a few folks. I personally run 2-piece front ends on all my bikes, primarily for the adjustability. I strongly suggest getting an FSA NO 55R and the SMR stem. The SMR stem is a bit on the heavy side, but it looks nice, and with most bars, it isn't much heavier than LTK's one-piece options. Alternatively, you could get the FSA NO.69 SRS headset and pair it with any stem (like the Kalloy Uno) and then have your pick of bars. The latter route would be about the same weight as most 1-piece combos.
You could also make the FSA No 55R headset work with something like the XMCS one-piece if you really wanted to go that way.
I am close to pulling the trigger here (X68 and R088 are the other options I am havin on my mind). Any recommendations here?
I have no experience with either of these frames, so the only thing I can say is that the LTK should be significantly lighter. Most of the weights slung about are marketing weights (unpainted, bare frame only), but if you look at the real weights, the LTK 266 D SL is 250g-350g lighter as a frameset (frame + fork + seatpost + metal bits) than those frames. Unlike the X68, it's also not a shady replica/fake from a shady seller.
I continue to be really impressed with mine and think that, for the price paid, this frame has no business being this good. I wish I had a Speeder SC55 to compare it to.
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I continue to be really impressed with mine and think that, for the price paid, this frame has no business being this good.
I'm also floored with how good this bike is for the price. Did another long ride this morning. Wow.
If you get just the frame with no extras (i.e. don't add in their headset or an extra derailleur hanger, etc.) it will come in around $950USD shipped to the US, including shipping, duties, and transaction fees.
The handlebars I believe are $85. But the length and width options are very limited, and it is heavy. Better to go aftermarket and pair it with a bar and stem combo that lets you dial in your fit, or if you know your exact measurements, spring for an integrated barstem combo that matches the quality of the frame.
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I'm also floored with how good this bike is for the price. Did another long ride this morning. Wow.
If you get just the frame with no extras (i.e. don't add in their headset or an extra derailleur hanger, etc.) it will come in around $950USD shipped to the US, including shipping, duties, and transaction fees.
The handlebars I believe are $85. But the length and width options are very limited, and it is heavy. Better to go aftermarket and pair it with a bar and stem combo that lets you dial in your fit, or if you know your exact measurements, spring for an integrated barstem combo that matches the quality of the frame.
In the process of calculating expected costs for the build. Would you mind sharing what bar / stem combo you used (and how satisfied you are with it). Any additional costs for frame and handlebar to be considered?
Thx :)
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Hi there,
I am close to pulling the trigger here (X68 and R088 are the other options I am havin on my mind). Any recommendations here?
For the LTK266-D-SL - Is there any whatsapp contact or is the best way to jsut inquire through the long teng website?
How much was frame + handlebar for you?
Thank you very much :)
I would rather get this frame than the rest you listed. You can also try Speeder or LC.
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In the process of calculating expected costs for the build. Would you mind sharing what bar / stem combo you used (and how satisfied you are with it). Any additional costs for frame and handlebar to be considered?
I bought a Tavelo Avro handlebar from Panda Podium for $300 flat - DDP and free shipping to US. I was looking for a bar measuring 380mm width in the hoods, 130mm stem length, and at least -10 degree angle. So my options were somewhat constrained. I also wanted a bar with a longer reach >75mm and a slight outward flare to the drops. https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/tavelo-avro-gen-1-handlebar/ In the order, I specified FSA compatible headset spacers. Additionally, I paid ~$50 shipped for an FSA ACR No55R headset https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr.
On my other bike I have used a $30 KOCEVLO 380mm bar from AliExpress paired with various stems, ending with a $50 120mm/-17degree Zip Service Course aluminum stem. That setup still works great. My budget has changed, I knew my fit, and I was ready to splurge for a really stiff, light, and sleek integrated setup. Worth it? 100%
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I bought a Tavelo Avro handlebar from Panda Podium for $300 flat - DDP and free shipping to US. I was looking for a bar measuring 380mm width in the hoods, 130mm stem length, and at least -10 degree angle. So my options were somewhat constrained. I also wanted a bar with a longer reach >75mm and a slight outward flare to the drops. https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/tavelo-avro-gen-1-handlebar/ In the order, I specified FSA compatible headset spacers. Additionally, I paid ~$50 shipped for an FSA ACR No55R headset https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr.
On my other bike I have used a $30 KOCEVLO 380mm bar from AliExpress paired with various stems, ending with a $50 120mm/-17degree Zip Service Course aluminum stem. That setup still works great. My budget has changed, I knew my fit, and I was ready to splurge for a really stiff, light, and sleek integrated setup. Worth it? 100%
Sounds similar to my new XMCS bars except the stem length. I got them for $320 when I ordered my R01 frame.
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If I had to pick a one-piece, and I didn't have access to my library of 3d printed parts, those bars from Peter or the ones from Speeder Cycling are a great choice because they use the FSA ACR spacer stack. You should be able to simply place them on top of the supplied bearing cover that comes with the FSA No55R headset.
Makes for easy compatibility and pleasing aesthetics, with the caveat that I don't own either of those specific products. I tinker too much to go one piece.
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Sounds similar to my new XMCS bars except the stem length. I got them for $320 when I ordered my R01 frame.
very similar, but the tavelo bars are on the lighter side - 363g with a 130mm stem and Wahoo computer mount installed.
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very similar, but the tavelo bars are on the lighter side - 363g with a 130mm stem and Wahoo computer mount installed.
True. I wasn’t claiming they were the lightest but I don’t consider them heavy at all.
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Just need to cut the steerer tube and it’ll be fully dialed in.
I’ve only managed one ride so far, but like others have noted, I’m very impressed for the price point. The bike feels very nice to ride, responsive, snappy. I have used the FSA ACR headset and all seems fine.
• Handlebar: Xiamen Carbon Speed
• Wheels: XCMS 60mm deep / 24IW
• Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm tubeless
• Groupset: Mix of SRAM Force and Red E1 (Force D2 levers)
• Frame size: Small
Weight (with Favero Duo pedals): 6.4kg
(https://i.imgur.com/OCW6uZQh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yUY7Sbqh.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dsp6JwSh.jpeg)
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Just need to cut the steerer tube and it’ll be fully dialed in.
I’ve only managed one ride so far, but like others have noted, I’m very impressed for the price point. The bike feels very nice to ride, responsive, snappy. I have used the FSA ACR headset and all seems fine.
• Handlebar: Xiamen Carbon Speed
• Wheels: XCMS 60mm deep / 24IW
• Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm tubeless
• Groupset: Mix of SRAM Force and Red E1 (Force D2 levers)
• Frame size: Small
Weight (with Favero Duo pedals): 6.4kg
nice bike! what handlebars are these? can you please send a link? cant find them on theire homepage? what did you pay for?
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Read this thread, 320USD: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5260.msg86361.html#msg86361
nice bike! what handlebars are these? can you please send a link? cant find them on theire homepage? what did you pay for?
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Read this thread, 320USD: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5260.msg86361.html#msg86361
thanks
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Just need to cut the steerer tube and it’ll be fully dialed in.
I’ve only managed one ride so far, but like others have noted, I’m very impressed for the price point. The bike feels very nice to ride, responsive, snappy. I have used the FSA ACR headset and all seems fine.
• Handlebar: Xiamen Carbon Speed
• Wheels: XCMS 60mm deep / 24IW
• Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm tubeless
• Groupset: Mix of SRAM Force and Red E1 (Force D2 levers)
• Frame size: Small
Weight (with Favero Duo pedals): 6.4kg
Enjoy! Black gloss looks really good. And now you're making me want to weight weenie mine... EDIT: just weighed mine (Size L, all Force E1) and its 7.1kg with the wahoo and varia taken off. I think I could get nearly to 6.8kg swapping out the tires. 6.5 with ultralight shallow rims and carbon spokes (<1100g) -- the weight of the frame gives so much room to get the bike super light.
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Hi all, I am continuing to edit the first post on this page to keep it current with information about this frame, how to order it, and ideas on how to build it.
I'm not sure if this frame is truly one of the best open molds, or if they are all this good, but I am so impressed that I want to make sure it doesn't get overlooked. Please let me know if you have thoughts to add.
While it would be cool to get them to open molds in a few more sizes, that is still really far away, and the Mondinice crowdfunding campaign probably isn't helpful to the cause.
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Today the Specialized Aethos 2 was just released, and it is a nice comparison with this bike. Non-aero, superlightweight. Specialized has increased the stack, so it is roughly 15mm higher across the board than the LTK266-D-SL (dealbreaker for me, tbh). But it now has UDH and support for 35mm tires with 6mm of clearance (CEN Standard) just like the LTK does.
But I bring it up because the Aethos 2 Pro with SRAM Force E1 comes in at $8,499 before taxes. In a size 56 with no pedals and 28mm tires, it weighs 6.71 kg.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/aethos-2-pro-sram-force-axs/p/4221564?color=5466393-4221564
My LTK266-D-SL with full SRAM Force E1 cost $4,700 including taxes, shipping, duties, and all the rest. If I was more frugal about touch-point components and wheels without compromising on group/crankset, it could have been more like $4,250 -- so fully half the price of the Aethos.
My LTK in size 56 with 250g 1stgen Assioma Duos, 50g in bottle cages, 20g in computer mount, and 35mm Michelin Pro5 TLR (400g each compared to the 275g each of the 28mm S-Works Turbo TLR Race Tire on the Aethos2) comes in at 7.1kg. So no compromise in weight.
I bet the Aethos has a comfier ride. Resell value is incomparable, as is support from Specialized dealers.
But at double the price even with a spendy retail buy of new Force, it's an object lesson in the value proposition of these open molds, at least to me.
EDIT: I wrote all this froth, but really let's just think about the frameset: $3,499 before taxes https://www.specialized.com/us/en/aethos-2-frameset-fact-10r-carbon/p/4221561?color=5446330-4221561 versus the LTK
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Hi all, I am continuing to edit the first post on this page to keep it current with information about this frame, how to order it, and ideas on how to build it.
I'm not sure if this frame is truly one of the best open molds, or if they are all this good, but I am so impressed that I want to make sure it doesn't get overlooked. Please let me know if you have thoughts to add.
While it would be cool to get them to open molds in a few more sizes, that is still really far away, and the Mondinice crowdfunding campaign probably isn't helpful to the cause.
They Sakizashi,
Why do you think the failed Mondince indiegogo campaign isn't helpful?
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Hi all, I am continuing to edit the first post on this page to keep it current with information about this frame, how to order it, and ideas on how to build it.
I'm not sure if this frame is truly one of the best open molds, or if they are all this good, but I am so impressed that I want to make sure it doesn't get overlooked. Please let me know if you have thoughts to add.
While it would be cool to get them to open molds in a few more sizes, that is still really far away, and the Mondinice crowdfunding campaign probably isn't helpful to the cause.
Thak you for yuor work!!
What are the thru axles like? Is it worth ordering them with the frame, or can you get something better for a similar price?
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I bet the Aethos has a comfier ride. Resell value is incomparable, as is support from Specialized dealers.
But at double the price even with a spendy retail buy of new Force, it's an object lesson in the value proposition of these open molds, at least to me.
EDIT: I wrote all this froth, but really let's just think about the frameset: $3,499 before taxes https://www.specialized.com/us/en/aethos-2-frameset-fact-10r-carbon/p/4221561?color=5446330-4221561 versus the LTK
I've been using this bike as my around-town bike as well as doing some longer rides on it. I still think it's worthy of the froth.
With most of the cheaper frames I've had or ridden over the years, even the small brand versions of open molds, I've always had a sense of what I was giving up compared to the top frames of their type. In many cases, it was tangible (e.g., weight, part compatibility) or revealed itself while riding (e.g., an overly stiff ride, a lack of composure over rough roads, awkward handling at the limits). With this frame, I'm unsure what I am giving up vs. other light or even all-around road bikes. I think I am giving up some aero, but I'm not sure, and evaluating it when the bikes have different geometries is tough. Yet, I am gaining the ability to run wider tires.
They Sakizashi,
Why do you think the failed Mondince indiegogo campaign isn't helpful?
The size availability is a huge downside for the 266SL. If LTK is aware of Mondinice's campaign and they need 50+ orders to open an XL, I don't see that happening unless a brand steps in and commits to volume, in which case we might lose access to the frame. Creating the XL mold for the Chinese market for Permeants and Tideace appears to be a significant risk to take, with limited upside. 5 people asking isn't going to move the needle.
Thak you for yuor work!!
What are the thru axles like? Is it worth ordering them with the frame, or can you get something better for a similar price?
I am pretty sure this bike is using a UDH thru axle on the rear, paired with a Giant TCR / Defy front. It's rather challenging to find an aftermarket front only unless you are getting into the expensive lightweight stuff or are buying spares from Giant.
You can do what I am doing, which is use a flat axle washer on a 118mm or 120mm thru axle to make it the right size.
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Thak you for yuor work!!
What are the thru axles like? Is it worth ordering them with the frame, or can you get something better for a similar price?
I swapped them for these:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Wztwp
L117 M12x1.5 TL12
L168 M12x1.0 TL19
Need to order 2mm spacers
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPxuPP7
They are obviously a bit lighter but I didn’t weight them on a scale. I know nothing about this brand so take my advice with a grain of salt.
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This is what I did -- FSA no55 headset + Tavelo Bar-stem + Tavelo-supplied FSA adapter/spacers. Worked great.
What I mean is that it is a b*tch to fit the nondriveside crank and spindle through the SRAM DUB T47 internal bb. This has nothing to do with the frame itself--just the way the SRAM components fit together. And yes I did need the single 3mm external driveside spacer. Given the chainstays/tire clearance it's needed for the fit on the LTK266. Now that it is set up it works perfectly. But I needed help to get it installed.
@klrdd:
Hi,
I read you post about the process of installing the BB and crankset....and about "chainstays/tire clearance".
Would love to run 1x SRAM Aero chainring at the front in combination with SRAM E1 XPLR at the back.
Any ideas about if it will fit - also with a 1x 48t chaingring a the front?
Many thanks, Dennis
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@klrdd:
Hi,
I read you post about the process of installing the BB and crankset....and about "chainstays/tire clearance".
Would love to run 1x SRAM Aero chainring at the front in combination with SRAM E1 XPLR at the back.
Any ideas about if it will fit - also with a 1x 48t chaingring a the front?
Many thanks, Dennis
Hi Dennis, I don't have experience with SRAM 1x, so I hesitate to comment on this with anything more than conjecture.
But to expand a bit on what I wrote in that previous post: using the 3mm driveside external spacer for the SRAM T47 internal BB is standard procedure--see the SRAM documenbtation here: https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/7unL17qdyCWxTL38aPmYJ0/UM%20-%20DUB%20Cranksets%20and%20Bottom%20Brackets?models=bb-dub-t47-a1 -- so it would have been strange for me not to include it, rather than the other way around.
I do not know exactly how having a single ring up front and the wide XPLR cassette in the back might affect chainline or whether you might need additional spacers, but (again, take this conjecture with a grain of salt) I really doubt it would be much of a problem if I had no problems with clearance in a 2x setup.
In fact, I considered doing the whole 48t x 10-46T 13 speed thing. I never thought it would be a problem that, in a pinch, some additional spacers couldn't solve. But after gazing at gear calculators for a while, I realized I would have been pretty frustrated with the inefficient chain line and huge jumps when climbing steeper stuff (and thus limited options to maintain desired cadence), even though the overall range is actually greater than what I get with my Force E1 48/35 x 10/33 setup. With the weight savings from the frame, going 1x was a bit extra for me, but I also wasnt going full weenie, which might be your thing.
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I don't think you save anyweight with a XPLR derailleur and a 46T cassette, compared to a 2x setup. I don't see much conditions outside of gravel riding where it could be of any advantage
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I don't think you save anyweight with a XPLR derailleur and a 46T cassette, compared to a 2x setup. I don't see much conditions outside of gravel riding where it could be of any advantage
I did the calculations and you save about 240 grams with the 1x XPLR setup. It's pretty much a wash (~60g) before we take into account the front derailleur and its battery, which adds nearly 200g.
But I am totally in agreement with you that I don't think it's worth it. You lose more than you gain for a road setup. And you could get the same weight savings simply by getting a SRAM RED crankset in place of Force (though of course with the price premium for the RED hollowed out and one piece design
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I think with E1 the Force crankarms lost a lot of weight and the delta between Force and Red should be ~100g now. Previous gen Force was heavy.
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I think with E1 the Force crankarms lost a lot of weight and the delta between Force and Red should be ~100g now. Previous gen Force was heavy.
you're right -- https://powermetercity.com/product/sram-red-2x-road-crankset/ they have comparisons on this page based on 172.5mm cranks and 48/35 rings and it's almost exactly 100g by their measure. Still think 2x is a smarter choice for this bike though :P
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Oh, I absolutely agree for a road bike. Love 1x for the range on gravel, but on a road bike I tend to be in the big ring almost all the time, and only use the small chainring for extended climbs or bailout (it's generally flat where I live and climbs I only climb on vacation).
Back on topic :) Are those of you who chose the green transparent happy with the finish? I am considering this frame for a new build. Would have loved an even steeper STA, but haven't really seen any chinese frames with a STA of 74 or larger in my size (I am 183 cm and would pick size L since I think M would be too low for me).
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Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here :) ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?
Thanks in advance!
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The Grizl has a stack of 579 mm in size M, which is a full four centimeters taller than this bike in size M. Size XL is pretty close to your current bike - 9 mm shorter and 1 mm taller. Don't know how tall the top cap of the Grizl is, but the LTK266-D-SL can facilitate a low top cap which in combination with dropping the 2 cm of spacers might make a size XL aggressive enough for you.
Size L is 20 mm lower than the Grizl and 13 mm shorter.
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Just wanted to share this page I use to compare bike sizes and sizing with different setups. You can switch the language.
https://www.bike-stats.de/
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Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here :) ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?
Thanks in advance!
Well, the XL isn't available, so the L is your only option. Its probably the right frame anyway. The sizing philosophy on this frame is interesting. If you use spacers to make the stacks equal between sizes, you will need a 10mm shorter stem to get the bar to the same position in terms of an X-Y fitting system on the larger size. i.e., the position of an L requires a 10mm shorter stem than an M, which requires a 10mm shorter stem than the S.
Frame stack and reach can be misleading because adding spacers reduces the reach. Assuming the numbers above are correct for the Grizl, with a 40mm spacer stack, a 120mm -10 degree stem is roughly the same position as the Size L LTK266DSL vs. the M Grizl. You probably wouldn't want to run it that way since most people want a longer and lower fit on the road. I think a two-piece bar and stem would be better for figuring this out, but if you insist on a one-piece and don't want to try out your fit / see a fitter, I would either get a 130mm bar stem with the same width at the tops or a 140mm with a 2cm reduction in width. I suggest starting with 30mm of spacers, with room to bump that up to 40mm if needed.
Regarding the paint, mine was good, but I only asked for matte and clear. The frame was well masked and, as far as I could tell, flawless paintwise. The BB threads were clear, and the BB went in square. The caliper mounts were cleared post-painting, but it looked like they were sanded. Mine built up fine. Finishing wise, like a 8 out of 10. good enough to build up clean, everything dimensionally square, but a little rough.
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Just wanted to check in with you guys for a sizing reference. Which size would you order if you were 180cm with 82,5cm legs (short legs, long torso here :) ). For reference I run a Canyon Grizl Gravel Bike in Size M (saddle heigth 74cm, stem length 10cm, -10degrees, 2cm spacers) but I want my road bike to be (way) more aggressive. Also curious on paint quality and how well faced were BB and brake caliper mountings?
Thanks in advance!
i went with L but still waiting can report in a few weeks! similar size little bit longer legs...
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Back on topic :) Are those of you who chose the green transparent happy with the finish? I am considering this frame for a new build. Would have loved an even steeper STA, but haven't really seen any chinese frames with a STA of 74 or larger in my size (I am 183 cm and would pick size L since I think M would be too low for me).
I like the green transparent glossy a lot! It's pretty dark in overcast but really pops in direct sunlight. Otherwise i probably would have gone just black. I do have some regrets not getting creative.... But the green glossy has been a safe, LIGHT, option.
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Thanks for the detailed thread about the frame.
I'm thinking about pulling the trigger next month during the AliExpress sale to build up the bike and make it my main road bike. So let's see — I still need to do some more research on other parts and decide on paint jobs, etc.
But it looks like a promising build. :)
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Hi, a newbie on the topic here :)
from what I can understand about LTK266-D-SL, the frame is very nice and also quite responsive and for me it really ticks a lot of boxes. But the thing I am slightly concerned about is the size of the frame for 183 cm because my legs are probably on the longer side, running 79cm seat height. I noticed a few of you riding the bike at approx. 180cm, do you feel the frame is on the smaller side for you?
Also where would you place the quality of the frame or its ride feel compared to other OEM frames? For instance, the Spcycle r088 seems quite nice but from what I understand, LTK266-D-SL should be better in terms of quality and ride feel. About LCR017d, I have mixed opinion. It is heavier, looks more aero, but some people say it is quite squishy in some parts, so I am not so sure about its stiffness. Maybe with slammed stem it would look nice, maybe a little bit similiar to the Cannondale supersix evo.
I am asking this because next season I am a retired U23 pro cyclist and to be honest I want the frame to be nice to ride, responsive. Not the type of frame that is fast on paper, but then it is sluggish to ride like if you got some bad replica of an SL8...yeah it looks nice, is good in the wind tunnel because it is same geometry, but isn't joy to ride.
Thanks for your thoughts!
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Hi, a newbie on the topic here :)
from what I can understand about LTK266-D-SL, the frame is very nice and also quite responsive and for me it really ticks a lot of boxes. But the thing I am slightly concerned about is the size of the frame for 183 cm because my legs are probably on the longer side, running 79cm seat height. I noticed a few of you riding the bike at approx. 180cm, do you feel the frame is on the smaller side for you?
Also where would you place the quality of the frame or its ride feel compared to other OEM frames? For instance, the Spcycle r088 seems quite nice but from what I understand, LTK266-D-SL should be better in terms of quality and ride feel. About LCR017d, I have mixed opinion. It is heavier, looks more aero, but some people say it is quite squishy in some parts, so I am not so sure about its stiffness. Maybe with slammed stem it would look nice, maybe a little bit similiar to the Cannondale supersix evo.
I am asking this because next season I am a retired U23 pro cyclist and to be honest I want the frame to be nice to ride, responsive. Not the type of frame that is fast on paper, but then it is sluggish to ride like if you got some bad replica of an SL8...yeah it looks nice, is good in the wind tunnel because it is same geometry, but isn't joy to ride.
Thanks for your thoughts!
I'm just a hair under 183 and I am fine on the L. However, I run my seat height at 76cm. Presumably my legs are slightly shorter than yours, and also I do like to run a bit lower of a seat because of mid-foot cleat position, etc. I do not think the frame is too small for someone at 6ft/183cm but it's personal preference. I prefer a 56 with a long stem. And given that I'm running the 130mm/-10degree stem nearly slammed, I don't think I'd get along with the higher stack height of a 58/XL if one existed anyways. But that's all preference. Have you ridden a 58 previously as a racer? If you were a pro u23 i'd think you would want a smaller frame, tbh, given the trend toward running frames even two sizes 'too small' in the pro peloton.
I can't compare to other OEM frames, sorry. Looks-wise (and aero-wise) you need to be OK with the lack of aero shaping. The bike feels stiff and responsive but not harsh. So yeah the BB area is stiff enough but so much depends on touch points and wheels/tires as I'm sure you know as a pro. Definitely not feeling squishy or noodley. But I don't have the experience with modern (say post 2020) Western bikes to make good comparisons here--need someone else to chime in. Hope this helps.
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I'm just a hair under 183 and I am fine on the L. However, I run my seat height at 76cm. Presumably my legs are slightly shorter than yours, and also I do like to run a bit lower of a seat because of mid-foot cleat position, etc. I do not think the frame is too small for someone at 6ft/183cm but it's personal preference. I prefer a 56 with a long stem. And given that I'm running the 130mm/-10degree stem nearly slammed, I don't think I'd get along with the higher stack height of a 58/XL if one existed anyways. But that's all preference. Have you ridden a 58 previously as a racer? If you were a pro u23 i'd think you would want a smaller frame, tbh, given the trend toward running frames even two sizes 'too small' in the pro peloton.
I can't compare to other OEM frames, sorry. Looks-wise (and aero-wise) you need to be OK with the lack of aero shaping. The bike feels stiff and responsive but not harsh. So yeah the BB area is stiff enough but so much depends on touch points and wheels/tires as I'm sure you know as a pro. Definitely not feeling squishy or noodley. But I don't have the experience with modern (say post 2020) Western bikes to make good comparisons here--need someone else to chime in. Hope this helps.
I ran a bit longer frame in terms of reach, I was on the 56, but for the reach I think I can compensate with stem length. Head tube length is similar to my old bike, so I think I could ride it slammed without issues so I really think size L should be OK.
It is interesting because as a junior I raced Giant TCR and that bike went really well uphill. But in a pro team, you don't get to chose your bike - you ride what you get and on the team bike, which had more aerodynamic frame, I missed some responsiveness of the TCR. So now that I am going to retire, I want the bike to feel responsive, but I am okay with lack of aerodynamic - when you aren't competing, the ride feel will be more important ...of course a lot of the bike's handling characteristics come from wheels and tyres, but also handlebars.
So from what I understand the frame it super nice, if you don't mind lack of aerodynamics... as a U23 racer I trained a lot and when you spend that much time on the bike, you start to look at the bike differently and the thing I notice now...you start to appreciate the bike that feels nice to ride, not just the bike that looks great or performs the best.
Thanks for reply!
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So from what I understand the frame it super nice, if you don't mind lack of aerodynamics... as a U23 racer I trained a lot and when you spend that much time on the bike, you start to look at the bike differently and the thing I notice now...you start to appreciate the bike that feels nice to ride, not just the bike that looks great or performs the best.
Thanks for reply!
Just want to temper your expectations a bit, because you are probably really discerning about ride feel as a high level racer with so much time in the saddle competing. This bike is a great deal, but I dont know if it's going to feel special in that way some of the high end frames with a lot of r&d do. Truthfully I just dont know. But practically, for the price its going to be hard to beat. 500km in and I am more than satisfied with my.investment..But dont expect fireworks.
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This bike is a great deal, but I dont know if it's going to feel special in that way some of the high end frames with a lot of r&d do. Truthfully I just dont know. But practically, for the price its going to be hard to beat. 500km in and I am more than satisfied with my.investment..But dont expect fireworks.
I agree. It is fair to say that with limited R&D it is cruel to expect it will ride like a high end frame for almost 10 times higher price. But from what I've read, I think the area where the frame really excels, is what you get for the cost (Because as a student, you don't have unlimited amount of money and also you are a bit to old to expect that your parents will buy you a bike), and compared to riders' reviews of other similiar priced OEM frames, this one should be high on the list.
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Curious to hear if there is more feedback on this frame.
I stand by my initial take that this bike is delightfully boring. It lacks the "alive" feeling that makes you want to go fast and be a little reckless, but it always feels surefooted, even when pushing it through high-speed corners. I also still have no complaints regarding how it handles broken pavement or gravel roads even running an unpadded saddle. It's a strange thing, this bike doesn't feel any less than higher-end bikes, but it also lacks a standout quality (other than its very modern tire clearance and weight as low as the best frames from 2024).
It just seems too good to be true. Part of me is hoping for a reality check. And yes, I sound like Serge and hate every second of it.
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I am thinking of getting this frame in size L. I am actually worried a little bit about the wide tire clearance, since I will be running 25 or 28mm tires. Can somebody running a narrower set of wheels provide pictures or comment on the extra space around the wheels? This part of my concern is mainly aesthetic, since I don't want my bike to look weird with slim tires.
The other thing that I am worried about and is related to this topic, however, is also in regards to any mechanical drawbacks that wider clearance has. I imagine it causes slightly more drag? Is the amount of additional drag even significant in any way? Anything else?
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It lacks the "alive" feeling that makes you want to go fast and be a little reckless, but it always feels surefooted, even when pushing it through high-speed corners.
I know what you mean. A bad puncture put me back on my old BMC for a few days and that bike has the compelling liveliness that the 266 lacks. Funny thing is the 266 is faster. I had chalked it up to running bigger tires at lower pressure (so not feeling the road as much, heavier rotational weight) but if you're feeling the same, could be more related to the frame than i thought. "delightfully boring" is great. Works for me. Hoping for more opinions from others too
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I might have missed this, but has anyone in the UK ordered one of these (on here, that they can talk about)?
I'm planning to replace my current rim brake bike (Vitus Vitesse Evo - because I hate press fit bb) and I'm looking at :
LTK 266-D-SL
LCR017-D - edit i meant 17D
Elves Vanyar disc (skinny tube one)
what else is like that?
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I know what you mean. A bad puncture put me back on my old BMC for a few days and that bike has the compelling liveliness that the 266 lacks. Funny thing is the 266 is faster. I had chalked it up to running bigger tires at lower pressure (so not feeling the road as much, heavier rotational weight) but if you're feeling the same, could be more related to the frame than i thought. "delightfully boring" is great. Works for me. Hoping for more opinions from others too
Any suggestions for OEM frames that feel more alive? Kinda a bit worried the bike might feel a little too boring for me...eventhough I have not found a OEM frame that ticks more boxes for me than the LTK266-D-SL...
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Any suggestions for OEM frames that feel more alive? Kinda a bit worried the bike might feel a little too boring for me...eventhough I have not found a OEM frame that ticks more boxes for me than the LTK266-D-SL...
Want @Sakizashi to weigh in... however: I don't have any OEM frames to compare it with, nor do I have an extra, lighter wheelset and thinner/lighter tires to A/B test whether my impressions are frame-related or not. Sorry!
@patliean1 just posted a Youtube video comparing the x68 with premium components to a genuine sl8 and said it got about 75-80% there...for 1/5th of the price of the frame. Same here, I think. "Delightfully boring" and my "dont expect fireworks" is about moderating expectations. I'm going to happily put 10k km on this bike over the next 9 months unless fate intervenes.
edit: i misspelled username
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I watched @ patliean1's video on the X68 and the Scott Foil one, and my perception of what I find boring is a bit different than the not stiff enough/too stiff issues and how that affects ride quality over less than ideal roads. The 266SL offers immediacy and feels great when climbing. This bike is way better than 75%, it is closer to 90-95% of a 2025 bike. I think it is very comparable to a second-tier branded frameset. Of course, it has some drawbacks, such as needing to source your own headset, lower finishing quality, that awful rubber seat tube bolt cover, and the lack of aero shaping. To me, this bike also feels old school, like the Pinarellos and Colnagos before they sharpened their handling for the current generation.
This might be my problem: I think the bike's geometry is too slack for my aggressive body position on the bike. I would like a shorter trail figure, either through a steeper HTA or a higher offset fork. Some of this might have to do with the front-end configuration I am using, but to me, this bike is more Pinarello F8 than Tarmac SL8 or Addict RC, if that makes sense. We have a couple of older Pinarellos in our house, but since they're my wife's bikes, they are a bit small for me. That said, the older rim brake bike honestly feels the closest of any bike I have ridden back to back with the 266SL. I just find it pretty vanilla given today's bikes.
I would love to compare the 266SL vs. the following bikes: Seka Spear RDC (MR), Enve Melee (52), Giant TCR (M).
I don't have many OEM comps for the latest generation of frames either. Bikes like the 1st Gen Ventum NS1 or the Vitus ZX1Evo, I found too stiff, while the Carbonda 696 and Guerciotti Brera (FM616 variant) were way too compliant on the road. This bike doesn't have either issue at my weight (sub 60kg) or power (sub 1000w is the best I have managed so far). I've also taken this bike to 85kph, and I had no issues with speed wobbles or strange handling, etc.
If you're in the DC / NoVa / Baltimore area and have a medium M/S Tavelo Speeder SCR-55D, or any bike on the comp list, and you're looking for a mellow ride, DM me. Would love to compare notes.
Edit: Oh, I should add that Ive ridden this frameset with 3 wheelsets. The 50/60 DFS road wheels that are very light (Aero111 29mm/ GP5K S TR), the heavy but pretty aero Polaris 69mm (28mm GP5k), and the custom LB/Berd wheels (32mm GP5kTL, Challenge 36mm Strade Bianche Pro, Conti Terra Speed 35mm). So, pretty sure I am commenting on frame differences.
Edit #2: I'm going to leave this post after this, but the comparison aspect makes me nervous and feels rather meaningless. To me, the reason to buy this bike is that it is the only OEM offering that I know of that clears 35mm tires with 6mm+ of clearance with a racing-style geometry. If you want that kind of versatility, your branded frame options are pretty limited, too. I think the Enve Melee, Incolor Intropy, and the Trek Domane RSL are the only bikes with similar clearance and geometry. The fact that this bike is lighter than all of those and has pretty good ride characteristics is a huge plus.
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Finally slammed the stem today. This bike is a weapon!
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I'm all aboard the wider tire hype train, but currently a bit frustrated with the current lack of understanding of the influence of frame aero drag to total system drag for rider + bike ... In other words, I have fomo over potential watts lost if I buy this frame. To me it seems as if e.g. Tour magazine and their test protocol magnifies the difference between frames, and eyeball aero really doesn't work. I'll gladly leave four watts on the table for a cheap, nice riding and versatile frame, but would I leave ten? Fifteen? Not sure.
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I'm all aboard the wider tire hype train, but currently a bit frustrated with the current lack of understanding of the influence of frame aero drag to total system drag for rider + bike ... In other words, I have fomo over potential watts lost if I buy this frame. To me it seems as if e.g. Tour magazine and their test protocol magnifies the difference between frames, and eyeball aero really doesn't work. I'll gladly leave four watts on the table for a cheap, nice riding and versatile frame, but would I leave ten? Fifteen? Not sure.
If you're worried about that, dont buy this frame. You wont stop worrying about it, and the data that is available now and will be generated in the future (oriented primarily around marketing aero bikes) will not assuage your concerns. Get this bike despite its chunky head tube, for all the other reasons. I can get in a flat back aero position -- but i could do the same thing on an S5 or a Y1RS that tests like -25W in the tunnel. I just dont care, though. I'm not holding 40+kph in a breakaway; and I'm ok with having to push a little harder or get a little lower when I'm rolling turns in the group ride, for those minutes when i am in the wind at 40+kph. If the marginal gains in aero are an important factor whether for racing or just as an enthusiast, i would probably look elsewhere.
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If you're worried about that, dont buy this frame. You wont stop worrying about it, and the data that is available now and will be generated in the future (oriented primarily around marketing aero bikes) will not assuage your concerns. Get this bike despite its chunky head tube, for all the other reasons. I can get in a flat back aero position -- but i could do the same thing on an S5 or a Y1RS that tests like -30W in the tunnel. I just dont care, though. I'm not holding 40+phk in a breakaway; and I'm ok with having to push a little harder or get a little lower when I'm rolling turns in the group ride, for those minutes when i am in the wind at 40+kph. If the marginal gains in aero are an important factor whether for racing or just as an enthusiast, i would probably look elsewhere.
You are probably right. I am sort of aero optimized position wise at the moment, and would probably continue to be so on a different bike. The thing is - I'm not buying an S5 or a Y1RS, not now, not in the foreseeable future. And while I very much believe both those bikes to be highly aero optimized, I remain sceptical to A LOT of other "aero looking" bikes (including probably nearly all current chinese aero bikes with a few exceptions). So for me, of the options I'm currently considering, probably none have seen a wind tunnel, and maybe a few have some basic CFD to back up aero "claims". Thus I'm left wondering what I'm really giving up on if I'm not buying one of the aero super bikes anyways ... (a very meandering and long way to get to the point, apologies).
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I wouldn't buy this bike for aero performance. I also wouldn't buy any of the currently available open molds for aero performance. I would want to see, at the very least, a measured reduction in frontal area and, at best, some data showing that, at least in simulation, the bike is aero.
The 266 has none of that. Mine is built and functions more as an allroad type bike.
I'm all aboard the wider tire hype train, but currently a bit frustrated with the current lack of understanding of the influence of frame aero drag to total system drag for rider + bike ... In other words, I have fomo over potential watts lost if I buy this frame. To me it seems as if e.g. Tour magazine and their test protocol magnifies the difference between frames, and eyeball aero really doesn't work. I'll gladly leave four watts on the table for a cheap, nice riding and versatile frame, but would I leave ten? Fifteen? Not sure.
Aero testing is still a minefield and I would not expect that to change any time soon.
- Tour's testing is highly repeatable. Still, it likely overemphasizes higher yaws. Despite their vigorous defense, the lack of a whole body does matter. Still, repeatable results would be nearly impossible with a whole body, as the bikes tested all have different geometries. This is basically as good as it gets for generalized conclusions
- Zero elevation and velodrome testing have the opposite flaw, the testing only includes relatively shallow yaws; but you can do it yourself pretty cheaply, so you can understand how aero you are, which ultimately is the thing that matters.
- Aerosticks can help you sort through data and simplify the analysis, but I don't think they get you better results. I believe the Gibli is the most advanced that you can currently buy and allows for some visibility into cross winds (not just that cross winds had an effect on airspeed vs. ground speed). However, it's still not good enough to significantly elevate the utility of this kind of testing above zero elevation or velodrome testing.
I've done the latter two kinds of testing, though my aerostick is on the basic side when it comes to usable functionality, and comparing bikes is a mess. For example, I know my custom, round tube, Ti bike is likely faster for me in most conditions than any other bike I have been lucky enough to demo or begged successfully for significant saddle time with. Those are also not fair comparisons because I got the custom bike to run a position that is not possible on those off-the-shelf bikes. The conclusion that I drew was that position optimization is far more critical than HT depth or a foil-shaped seat-post. Even if you are 10w slower because of a frame, at 48kmh 10w is something a lot of riders can find by narrowing their grip by a couple of CM and keeping elbows in. For many people, this is also less than the difference between a regular helmet and an aero road helmet. Or less than shoe covers, or in some slightly unbelievable cases, aero socks.
Regarding CDA optimization, I mentioned this on another thread that CD optimization is, at its core, a multivariate problem where it seems very possible that a shape that looks aero with deep shapes performs poorly even in comparison to a shallow one. Generally speaking, CD hard enough to optimize that its not easily predictable from person to person. You need to test to see if one helmet or brand of socks is faster than another, specifically for YOU. However, optimizing by reducing A is significantly more straightforward. If you can measure less frontal area, there is a very high chance that a small change, like keeping elbows tucked in, will be faster.
Unsurprisingly, reducing A is where newer Chinese frames like the Incolor Intropy and Evolve Cima have focused, given their relative lack of access to tunnel testing. The aero drag reduction achieved with aero frames is a real benefit for the few frames where it has been measured and proven, but in terms of cost per watt, an OSPW from Ceramicspeed seems like a bargain as these frames are around 2.5-3x the price of the 266.
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Is this frame's frontal area even that big? The head tube doesn't really look too bad in the pictures in this thread and the fork doesn't seem to be very big, either. Sure, the SC-R55 and the XMCS aero frames are probably a bit thinner, but is the 266 really that much of a brick?
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The fork does /look/ relatively unaerodynamic: it's goes from ~15x25 to ~25x47. I.e. purely on absolutel frontal area and on aspect ratio it's very stumpy.
I would imagine the fork is by far the dominant factor on a frameset's overall drag, particularly with bottles and legs. Has anyone seen anything attempting to quantify this? I was always quite tempted to swap a propel fork onto my TCR as new ones frequently come up on ebay but couldn't figure out whether it would physically fit.
That said, per others' comments I think it's highly unlikely to be a meaningful difference in the grand scheme of things.
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Thanks for the long and detailed answer @Sakizashi, very good content. I'm not really considering this frame for its aero properties - I'm looking for a fun bike which scores good enough on progressive geometry and passable on "aero". There's just no way I'm paying $4000 or more for a frameset with actual aero credentials. My upper limit is more like $1500, so not many options that are not direct-from-China out there.
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I'm attaching a photo of the bike from the front. Sorry for the wonky lighting and slightly off kilter angle.
Keep in mind these tires are 35mm, 36mm+ WAM. Bars are the Tavelo Avros in a 38cm width, not the Longtengs.
Hope this clears up impressions about what the front-end looks like head-on when built up.
Is this frame's frontal area even that big? The head tube doesn't really look too bad in the pictures in this thread and the fork doesn't seem to be very big, either. Sure, the SC-R55 and the XMCS aero frames are probably a bit thinner, but is the 266 really that much of a brick?
The fork does /look/ relatively unaerodynamic: it's goes from ~15x25 to ~25x47. I.e. purely on absolutel frontal area and on aspect ratio it's very stumpy.
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I'm attaching a photo of the bike from the front. Sorry for the wonky lighting and slightly off kilter angle.
Keep in mind these tires are 35mm, 36mm+ WAM. Bars are the Tavelo Avros in a 38cm width, not the Longtengs.
Hope this clears up impressions about what the front-end looks like head-on when built up.
Doesn't look too bad to be honest, but I'm no expert.
Now I just need to find a compelling tyre > 34 mm wide ...
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Doesn't look too bad to be honest, but I'm no expert.
Now I just need to find a compelling tyre > 34 mm wide ...
I think it looks just fine! It would be interesting to see this frame side-by-side with the VB-R-368 (front view of that frame: https://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPBA/UPBA916/2509/29/products/roadaerobikeframe2.jpg )
RE: Tires:
Michelin Pro 5 TLR 35mm -- https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/cx-gravel-reviews/michelin-pro-5-35 -- that's what I'm running.
Rolling resistance is competitive (within <2W of GP5k TR in 32mm www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/cx-gravel-reviews/continental-grand-prix-5000-s-tr-32 .
Drawback is instead in weight (400g per tire for the Michelin 35mm vs 310g for the GP5k 32mm). The Michelin Pro5 outperform the GP5K All Season in 35mm in weight and rolling resistance but are far worse in puncture protection
Down the line I plan to get another wheelset and have one ultralight set with 32mm road race tires and my current wheels with 35mm race gravel tires. Keen on trying these out: https://www.schwalbetires.com/Schwalbe-G-One-RS-PRO-11654395.01 -- BRR hasn't tested yet.
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I'm attaching a photo of the bike from the front. Sorry for the wonky lighting and slightly off kilter angle.
Keep in mind these tires are 35mm, 36mm+ WAM.
How much space is it on the sides of the tire in the fork? Looks like only 4-5mm on that photo?
In that case fork has less tire clearance than frame in the back?
Your bike looks great btw. I think I also want a green one like that 8)
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How much space is it on the sides of the tire in the fork? Looks like only 4-5mm on that photo?
In that case fork has less tire clearance than frame in the back?
Your bike looks great btw. I think I also want a green one like that 8)
The earlier photo's wonky angle may have been a little deceptive. Attached see a photo with a 6mm hex key at the spot on the sides of the tire with the least clearance. This is a 35mm specificed width tire on 24mm internal width rims. The tire likely measures above 35mm, and it never has less than 6mm of clearance at any point.
And thanks! The green is nice 8)
Edit: I'm not sure precisely what width the tire is measuring here so changing to not claim more clearance than I'm totally sure of.
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The fork has pretty much the exact clearance as the rear. This bike does not have ample fork clearance like the LCR018-D, but the overall chain stay measurements and measured clearances are about the same. You can fit a 38mm WAM slick tire on this frame and still meet the 4mm standard specified for "racing bikes" in ISO4210. If you're planning to ride this bike a bit off-road like I do, a 35mm marked tire is probably as wide as you want to go.
The photos earlier in the thread showing the 32mm GP5K w/ 8mm clearance all around is using a rim that is 25mm IW. The clearance on that tire was also the same in the fork.
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thanks both you guys...
I was thinking about using it occasionally with some 38mm WAM (measured on knobs) studded winter tires. Sounds like they should just fit :)
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Would someone who owns the frame be so kind and measure the seatpost dimensions for me? The picture of the seatpost profile from below would also be helpful. I am seriously considering buying this frame, but when I see the images of the stock seatpost clamp rubber cover I find it really low-quality looking. I am wondering if I can find something of better quality or a better fit on AliExpress instead of sourcing the rubber cover from LongTeng directly.
Thanks to anyone who will take the time.
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The Seatpost is 30.3mm at the widest and 29.8mm long. Ive also sized some of the different parts of the wedge area in the attached photo.
Overall, the wedge sits like 2.5-3mm down into the hole and not flush, This is a pretty silly oversight from LTK, though Ive been riding my frame without the rubber cover and its fine.
That said, ive been working on a replacement 3d Printed cover, but I still dont have the hang of designing for these kinds of things that are part intended to be stretched and part intended to be compressed out of TPU. I attached an STL file (not sure why the step upload is failing) with my current design that I have not yet printed. These are $3.00/print at a MOQ of 15 and dropping to $2.50 at 20. If I do a run of these, i will have plenty of extras.
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Cool, thanks.
I have not ordered the frame yet, but for anyone eager to find a better cover this might work: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005857461865.html. D-fuse seatpost shape on Giant Defy seems to have a very similar shape and diameter to the LTK's one, so the rubber cover could maybe fit. That being said, I doubt the seatpost itself would work with LTK266-D-SL, but maybe someone has one at home and can try.
Overall, I find it really interesting that someone designed a proprietary seatpost like this in the first place, that is actually wider than the standard 27mm round one, is not particularly aero, and limits the offset options to whatever a single manufacturer produces. And it is also not like LongTeng are trying to earn extra money by selling this as an extra. I am trying to get into the head of the company that designed this frame as I don't understand what could possibly be the motivation to design a new non-standard seatpost that does not make extra money, neither it solves any problem that other designs have.
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The Seatpost is 30.3mm at the widest and 29.8mm long. Ive also sized some of the different parts of the wedge area in the attached photo.
Overall, the wedge sits like 2.5-3mm down into the hole and not flush, This is a pretty silly oversight from LTK, though Ive been riding my frame without the rubber cover and its fine.
That said, ive been working on a replacement 3d Printed cover, but I still dont have the hang of designing for these kinds of things that are part intended to be stretched and part intended to be compressed out of TPU. I attached an STL file (not sure why the step upload is failing) with my current design that I have not yet printed. These are $3.00/print at a MOQ of 15 and dropping to $2.50 at 20. If I do a run of these, i will have plenty of extras.
I'll happily pay for one of your 3d printed covers once you work out the design. I've made peace with the Longteng rubber thing (mostly because I can't see it while riding) but its the most unsightly aspect of my bike as of now. And I do want something there to minimize water and sweat ingress.
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I'll happily pay for one of your 3d printed covers once you work out the design. I've made peace with the Longteng rubber thing (mostly because I can't see it while riding) but its the most unsightly aspect of my bike as of now. And I do want something there to minimize water and sweat ingress.
me too, my frame is shipped now! cant wait..
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Overall, I find it really interesting that someone designed a proprietary seatpost like this in the first place, that is actually wider than the standard 27mm round one, is not particularly aero, and limits the offset options to whatever a single manufacturer produces. And it is also not like LongTeng are trying to earn extra money by selling this as an extra. I am trying to get into the head of the company that designed this frame as I don't understand what could possibly be the motivation to design a new non-standard seatpost that does not make extra money, neither it solves any problem that other designs have.
I was also surprised at the dimensions when I first measured them, but in some ways, it makes sense. This seatpost is really light for its length. The carbon part is sub 100g for a 380mm part. The shallow D shape may also be one of the reasons why the bike doesn't feel too stiff, and it's likely more aero than a round one. I think they were optimizing for weight and stiffness in specific directions, given the materials used in this frame. However, in terms of owning a frame, I would have preferred a round one.
I assumed that the rubber cover was a generic item, but on closer inspection it looks like the design was intentional. It's one of those places where spending a little more time on it would help the overall aesthetics of this frame, but its also normal for a factory direct offering. Given the relatively low cost of these accessories, I don't know why Permeants or TideAce arent spending a bit of effort to polish up the details on this frame.
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Hi! Is Permeants ST-09 the same frame as LTK266 but with branding? Someone from China recommended Permeants ST-09 to me, but I couldn't find a separate thread about it.
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Hi! Is Permeants ST-09 the same frame as LTK266 but with branding? Someone from China recommended Permeants ST-09 to me, but I couldn't find a separate thread about it.
Yes
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How many more than me are considering a size XL ?
I can run a L, but I think a XL would be better since I could run it almost with no spacers.
And also considering I will probably use quite big tires, and have 47/48 shoes I think toe overlap would be a bit better on the XL also.
Im stuck deciding between the LTK266 and the LCR018-D. Having the XL option would make the choice easy probably.
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How many more than me are considering a size XL ?
I can run a L, but I think a XL would be better since I could run it almost with no spacers.
And also considering I will probably use quite big tires, and have 47/48 shoes I think toe overlap would be a bit better on the XL also.
Im stuck deciding between the LTK266 and the LCR018-D. Having the XL option would make the choice easy probably.
I'm stuck choosing between the LTK266 and the LCR017-D. I just like the look of the LCR017-D a bit more, but the fact that you can build a 5.95kg setup with the LTK266 / ST-09 is really impressive https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1K3VSzKEiK/ (https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1K3VSzKEiK/) As I understand it, the LCR017-D is heavier by 150-200g, but in what other ways does it better than LCR017-D? Please help me decide.
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I'm leaning towards the LTK266 because of its weight and its tire clearance, so the LCR017 is not interessting for me.
I will probably use it in the winter a bit also since it can fit my studded 38mm tires. And I'm probably gonna slap some SKS speedrockers on it also if they fit ok.
I like LTK266 "neutral"/discrete looks vs the LCR018.
The LCR018 seems a great value including bars and a headset that actually fits 8)
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I think if you want to nerd out on things that don't matter much, this frame appears to closer to a higher-end frame from the last couple of years than most other bikes on this site in terms of construction and materials. Looking at Winspace's bikes this seems closer to the SLC 3.0 or SLC 5.0 than their other bikes or closer to Seka's RDC. Per the information summarized on the first post, its not all sunshine and rainbows as some details need sorting. However, because this frame uses parts that are available at most bike shops, many of these issues are resolvable should they arise in the future.
Things that led me to pull the trigger on this specific frame were tire clearance, UDH, and compatibility with 3rd-party parts like FSA headsets. The proprietary nature of bikes these days really annoys me, but buying from a small brand or direct from China and having to pay $30 in shipping + wait a week for spares is something I didn't/don't want to deal with. I dont have to do that this bike. Most of the potential wear parts and things likely to break are things I can source from my LBS.
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I'm joining the team — I’ve placed my order for the frame as well. I asked Alisa about the headset issue, and apparently it’s been identified and resolved. The standard headset they provide should now fit properly.
I’d also be interested in one of the 3D-printed covers.
Can’t wait to start the build!
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Guys how exactly do you order the frame and how long does shipping take? If we're talking about the Permeants ST-09, it costs $1135 on Taobao and up to $1360 on AliExpress without shipping. As I understand, you buy the frame like LTK266-D-SL directly from Long Teng for much cheaper. What's the final price? And shipping?
If I got it right, you have to buy a compatible headset and better looking seatpost cover separately? And handlebar too. Are there any other differences from the Permeants?
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Guys how exactly do you order the frame and how long does shipping take? If we're talking about the Permeants ST-09, it costs $1135 on Taobao and up to $1360 on AliExpress without shipping. As I understand, you buy the frame like LTK266-D-SL directly from Long Teng for much cheaper. What's the final price? And shipping?
If I got it right, you have to buy a compatible headset and better looking seatpost cover separately? And handlebar too. Are there any other differences from the Permeants?
I'm going to make this a learning experience by asking you to read the thread ;D where we detail all of these questions. I even post pictures of my invoice. (Short answer is it was just under $1k USD shipped to the USA and you do so by emailing Alisa. But please read the thread. It doesn't take that long.)
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I'm going to
I'm going to make this a learning experience by asking you to read the thread ;D where we detail all of these questions. I even post pictures of my invoice. (Short answer is it was just under $1k USD shipped to the USA and you do so by emailing Alisa. But please read the thread. It doesn't take that long.)
Yes, my bad, I'm sorry, I found it myself right before your reply.
How do you feel about it now after some time? How would you choose in my place if I'm stuck between LTK266-D-SL and LCR017-D? I'm between 49-52 size so both frames fit me in size. Here's what I understood, correct me if I got something wrong or missed anything:
LTK266-D-SL — 100g lighter weight, geometry is more safe just like the SL8 and other popular frames, has 35c clearance instead of 32c like LCR017-D, slightly more expensive by say $100-200 (near $900-$1000), unclear situation with the headset. For some reason, there aren't many photos of cool builds yet, here, on fb ig reddit and even chinese rednote, probably because the frame is a whole year newer than LTK266-D-SL. It's just harder for me to fall in love with it when there are few examples of cool builds.
LCR017-D — looks a bit better to me, the geometry is aggressive, but it can be adjusted with spacers and a shorter stem, the frame is 100g heavier, can't really say it's "Super Light" not in one row with others ~700g, everything is good with the headset, choice of handlebars, lots of experience and others' builds, clearance is only 32c but it's not like I really need anything more than 30c, total price will be about $800-$900.
I live in the mountains and want to build a 6-7 kg bike with 50-65mm wheels (no point, I just like how it looks), give Magene QED a chance, and try lightweight Elilee cranks.
Also, in the case of LC, I want to do a complex crazy paint job in the spirit of Cannondale X Rapha, they said they can do all of this, but can LT do it?
What to do, what to do...
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No worries ;D
I am enjoying the bike! I wish I had more time to ride it lately.
It is hard for me to say too much on the choice between these two frames, but I can try. I did consider the LCR017-D before the LTK came on my radar. But I didn't want to compromise on tire clearance: I wanted something 'future proof'. Initially in fact i was looking at some of the endurance frames but I didn't want to go to a bike that was any heavier than my 2015 BMC, because I loved the feel of a 7kg bike. With the LTK I could hit ~7kg in a large without actually doing any weightweenie nonsense--in fact, with doing the opposite and adding massive heavy tires set up tubeless, instead of 25mm clinchers with TPU tubes like I had before. That is what the LTK afforded me.
I can't advise on geo for a frame so small compared to mine (L/56) where there are different compromises, but I can give some insight about my choice. For my size, the Lightcarbon is almost 10mm longer but the stack is about the same, so I would just use a 120mm stem instead of the 130mm I got for my LT. I don't think it would affect me much. The LT has a slightly slacker head angle (72.5 vs 73) and more trail, which I prefer -- but at your size both are going to be pretty slacked out by necessity, and I wouldn't know the differences in feel tbh.
If you want to get to 6kg, it's just a fact it will be easier with the LTK. If I ran 30mm gp5k tires (-200g) and some of these ultralight wheels you're seeing in the threads from Zen, Serenade, and XMCS (-300g) my build would get close to 6.5 in a size large with no additional weightweenie business. In addition to the frame, the fork and the seatpost from LTK are significantly lighter than the Lightcarbon ones.
The situation with the headset (for me at least) is quite clear: Get an FSA No55 headset separately, and then buy any aftermarket bar/stem that is FSA compatible (the vast majority are). Do that and no problems at all.
I hope you think my photos are one of the few examples of cool builds ;)
Regarding paint -- I would reach out to Alisa. Also maybe explore some of the older Longteng frame threads to see what people have done in the past. Clearly Lightcarbon can deliver on that. I'm not flashy though I have gotten a ton of compliments about the paint job from friends lately, perhaps the autumn light is doing the green gloss extra favors.
Good luck!
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@klrdd what is the standover height of your bike? I'm trying to decide between M and L. My inseam is 81cm and when I mapped it up in bikegeocalc it looked like it would be about 78cm standover for the L but it was a little hard to tell. I've had it be slightly off before, probably because I estimated the wheel diameter wrong.
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Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.
I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.
(https://imgur.com/HAgnHich.jpg)
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Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.
I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.
(https://imgur.com/HAgnHich.jpg)
I don't plan to get this bike at the moment, but if I ever decide to get one I'm going to sent a picture of yours and ask for the same!
Looks amazing.
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@klrdd what is the standover height of your bike? I'm trying to decide between M and L. My inseam is 81cm and when I mapped it up in bikegeocalc it looked like it would be about 78cm standover for the L but it was a little hard to tell. I've had it be slightly off before, probably because I estimated the wheel diameter wrong.
First time ever measuring this. I measured just in front of the BB where I would normally straddle the bike. Standover is just a shade under 80cm w/ the Michelin Pro5 35mm slicks, which might explain the ~+1cm depending on the tire input for bikegeocalc? My (shoeless) inseam is ~86cm, so with bike shoes+cleats on, it's a non-issue for me.
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Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.
I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.
(https://imgur.com/HAgnHich.jpg)
Your build looks great. I'm cool with build photos on the front page.
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Guys, could you please explain a bit about the frame finish to me? I'm confused, and Alisa isn't exactly quick to respond, plus I don't want to bother her too much.
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zvirgk8p40767wiei6xte/Screenshot-2025-10-31-at-15.58.52.png?rlkey=1alykyihpqydyfo27636j979a&dl=1)
a. This is raw carbon, sanded and ready for painting, but NOT polished, right? (@contraptions)
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/d78pn4vg0qavq3bj2f115/Screenshot-2025-10-31-at-15.57.20.png?rlkey=3ngxjpwb9j0p7iheyruxmo0xh&dl=1)
b. This is what raw carbon looks like under a tinted green clear coat, right? (@klrdd)
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/u9r8ak6lro63mamjvehnd/Screenshot-2025-10-31-at-16.16.11.png?rlkey=ec6f9aiyxv4w6b3u960btmtkc&dl=1)
c. This also looks like raw carbon but properly polished, right? (https://www.ltbikes.com/uploads/20250606/fbe7b3a519df6be74be67c58506e8833.jpg (https://www.ltbikes.com/uploads/20250606/fbe7b3a519df6be74be67c58506e8833.jpg))
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/nr5rlqu869ziby0lqjj62/Screenshot-2025-10-31-at-16.27.12.png?rlkey=jqekb80l7eorvvskcq0xje1p5&dl=1)
d. This frame is painted black, but the bottom bracket and rear triangle are without glossy varnish / with matte varnish, right? (@INSVNX)
Now please help me understand:
1. How to order the polished version? Like "raw carbon, without paint and varnish, perfectly polished, not just sanded"? I wouldn't want to get option (a.) like @contraptions, without polishing or paint/coating it looks "too raw" :)
2. Are there any downsides to leaving polished carbon without any coating? For example, it seems Winspace SLC3 is sold without coating.
3. Hey @contraptions, judging by your weighing photos, you received a completely UNPOLISHED frame and mentioned planning to apply Cerakote. If you don't mind, could you show how it turned out? Is it true that one layer of Cerakote only adds 10-15 grams, or did GPT deceive me again?
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I asked Alisa about complex paint jobs like Cannondale X Rapha, and she confidently replied No, they definitely can't do anything complex even for extra money (btw LightCarbon replied to me that they can), and even when I asked if it was possible to do a gradient of 3-4 colors, she also refused:
...for single set, the most colors we can do is 2 colors with gradient, and for the color, we only use the ones we have in stock, we don't order new paint oil, because it'll cost much, thanks for your understanding!
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3. Hey @contraptions, judging by your weighing photos, you received a completely UNPOLISHED frame and mentioned planning to apply Cerakote. If you don't mind, could you show how it turned out? Is it true that one layer of Cerakote only adds 10-15 grams, or did GPT deceive me again?
I haven't had a chance to Cerakote it yet - hopefully tomorrow. I'll post a picture/weight as soon as I do but it may slip another week as I can only do this during daylight hours on the w/e.
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I haven't had a chance to Cerakote it yet - hopefully tomorrow. I'll post a picture/weight as soon as I do but it may slip another week as I can only do this during daylight hours on the w/e.
Painter friend of mine told me you have to put the frame in a oven after applying Cerakote, have you ever done that before?
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Painter friend of mine told me you have to put the frame in a oven after applying Cerakote, have you ever done that before?
Most bike frames are painted with C-series Cerakote. There is significant variation in hardness by color. The blue titanium, for example, is tough, while the bright colors like purple are not that much harder than a gloss clearcoat. It's a bit harder to lay down than traditional paint, but it also air-dries and is applied over regular primer. I have C-series clear on a couple of bikes and a fork painted in blue titanium.
The H-series Cerakote is more consistent in many ways, but it does require an oven.
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The H-series Cerakote is more consistent in many ways, but it does require an oven.
DIY oven. Holds +/-3C
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Guys, could you please explain a bit about the frame finish to me? I'm confused, and Alisa isn't exactly quick to respond, plus I don't want to bother her too much.
Realized no one answered your question.
The finishes are mostly right except that choice C is what they call matte UD. It is a clearcoat and surprisingly robust. its on the lower section of my frame. Mine is part gloss and part matte. The way they did it was matte first and then gloss over the gloss portion. Unfortunately for me, that made it heavier, and with the way the frame actually looks in real life, I would have likely gone with either of those.
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Realized no one answered your question.
The finishes are mostly right except that choice C is what they call matte UD. It is a clearcoat and surprisingly robust. its on the lower section of my frame. Mine is part gloss and part matte. The way they did it was matte first and then gloss over the gloss portion. Unfortunately for me, that made it heavier, and with the way the frame actually looks in real life, I would have likely gone with either of those.
Hmm, in your photo, your frame looks completely solid black both at the bottom and top. Can you see the carbon there? Maybe it's the lighting, but it's very different from "UD matte" (c.) photo where the frame is more gray and you can cearly see the carbon patches (this is what I want to get, not just matte solid back).
I mean this photo of yours:
(https://imgur.com/uaDqFKLh.jpg)
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Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.
I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.
(https://imgur.com/HAgnHich.jpg)
Photos like these are the reason I'm addicted to building bikes.
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Hmm, in your photo, your frame looks completely solid black both at the bottom and top. Can you see the carbon there? Maybe it's the lighting, but it's very different from "UD matte" (c.) photo where the frame is more gray and you can cearly see the carbon patches (this is what I want to get, not just matte solid back).
I mean this photo of yours:
its subtle in photos but quite visible IRL. The clear might be tinted a little.
You can see it here in a prebuild photo which shows both the carbon and the matte.
(https://imgur.com/bLEH95vh.jpg)
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its subtle in photos but quite visible IRL. The clear might be tinted a little.
You can see it here in a prebuild photo which shows both the carbon and the matte.
Thanks! This is quite interesting! It's strange that in one case (on their website) the UD matte looks gray and the carbon surface and joints are clearly visible, while in another case (yours) the matte part is almost completely uniform and dark. Interesting. Alisa sent me another photo (attached) where, as she claims, one part is glossy and the other matte, just like yours. But it looks as if black paint/toner has been added there, and the carbon is no longer so clearly visible. Oook, I feel like I'm talking too much about this here haha, but I'm curious how I can get something that looks gray with the carbon clearly visible...
Same thing with SLC3, on a product image on their website I see carbon:
https://www.winspace.cc/cdn/shop/files/19_962838c9-4791-4cf2-8049-555a86975182.jpg?v=1735785439 (https://www.winspace.cc/cdn/shop/files/19_962838c9-4791-4cf2-8049-555a86975182.jpg?v=1735785439)
But in the photos in the reviews, it's just matte black:
https://www.hambini.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/20250106-143931-scaled.jpg (https://www.hambini.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/20250106-143931-scaled.jpg)
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First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.
I am having an issue with the top cap, it's rubbing on the frame when riding. I am using the LTK provided bearing and an LTK handlebar with their provided metal top cap and spacer. The provided bearings appear to be the correct size and Alisa has confirmed that too. I've ordered shims to hopefully remedy this issue -- any additional pointers are greatly appreciated!
LTK266-D-SL:
LTK HB09 Handlebar
Elite Wheels
LT-WOO ER9 3.0 + 105 parts
Selle Italia SLR Boost Saddle
Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1 (https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1)
Top bearing:
https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi (https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi)
Does the spacing here look correct? My 268 had much less spacing.
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First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.
Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1 (https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1)
Yeah! Congrats on the awesome build, man! Could you take a photo of the drive side, using your phone's 2x...5x lens, landscape orientation, from waist level not head height, just a basic bikeporn-photo-rules. It'll be great for the first post gallery if @Sakizashi doesn't mind adding!
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I also found a few builds photos while researching the Chinese internet:
(https://i.imgur.com/OddNpZr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i6fRmR1.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1jlI2fP.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xb3hUUX.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/boGKaGV.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VmRecl9.jpeg)
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First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.
I am having an issue with the top cap, it's rubbing on the frame when riding. I am using the LTK provided bearing and an LTK handlebar with their provided metal top cap and spacer. The provided bearings appear to be the correct size and Alisa has confirmed that too. I've ordered shims to hopefully remedy this issue -- any additional pointers are greatly appreciated!
LTK266-D-SL:
LTK HB09 Handlebar
Elite Wheels
LT-WOO ER9 3.0 + 105 parts
Selle Italia SLR Boost Saddle
Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1 (https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1)
Top bearing:
https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi (https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi)
Does the spacing here look correct? My 268 had much less spacing.
Is it OK if I add your photo to the gallery?
Regarding the headset. For reasons I won't bother getting into it's common for older IS bearing bikes to use a 7mm thick bottom bearing and an 8mm top one. When FSA and Deda released their systems that used IS52 bearings top and bottom, they switched to 8mm thick bearings for both top and bottom, while Token and Acros switched to 7mm thick bearings top and bottom. Most western brands went with the former, with a smaller number going with the latter. However, many Chinese OEMs initially missed the memo and went with 7mm bottom and 8mm top bearings. IDK exactly what the mixup is, but it's a common mistake: these factory-direct frames still come with cheaper, mixed-thickness headsets, while the frame designs have largely switched to ACR or DCR compatibility.
Shims should fix the problem. They should go on top of your C ring. If you need some in a pinch, the Delrin dub crank spacers can be cut to fit and work really well. Check to make sure your headset is tight and holding preload.
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It seems I've finally figured out why one UD matte isn't like another. They call both options UD matte, but in reality, the second option is "transparent Black matte". It seems to them that if you don't specifically ask for clear UD matte without any black paint, they might give you this transparent Black matte (2). Moreover, even on the unpainted version, they still touch up some seemingly especially messy (in their opinion) areas with paint, like the dropouts and the area to the right of the BB on image 2 (they look strange, as if they were blurry, retouched, and sloppily edited in photoshop BUT it's painted spot), and theoretically, you can ask them not to do this and leave all the beauty as is.
hmm this looks different. Maybe some black toner was added to the second photo to make the color more solid more uniform? I would like to get the first option, the one above, where the carbon is visible, along with the imperfect surface (beauty! I like it!) and the material joints.
Alisa: yes , they're different matte finsih , in the first picture , there's no any black paint except the joints , the UD weave can be seen very clearly . But in the second picture , there's black paint , we call in transparent Black matte finsih , the UD weave can be seen Vaguely , we can do the painting for you according to your demand .
(https://i.imgur.com/0byYV2w.png)
Ok, the investigation is closed, I will stop bothering you with this topic here, seems like hardly anyone cares.
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It seems I've finally figured out why one UD matte isn't like another. They call both options UD matte, but in reality, the second option is "transparent Black matte". It seems to them that if you don't specifically ask for clear UD matte without any black paint, they might give you this transparent Black matte (2). Moreover, even on the unpainted version, they still touch up some seemingly especially messy (in their opinion) areas with paint, like the dropouts and the area to the right of the BB on image 2 (they look strange, as if they were blurry, retouched, and sloppily edited in photoshop BUT it's painted spot), and theoretically, you can ask them not to do this and leave all the beauty as is.
Alisa:
(https://i.imgur.com/0byYV2w.png)
Ok, the investigation is closed, I will stop bothering you with this topic here, seems like hardly anyone cares.
My raw finish reveals the surface to be very clean indeed. If you like the look of raw carbon, I'd get it cleared (matte or otherwise) in a heartbeat.
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me too, my frame is shipped now! cant wait..
Same for me! Let us know if you ever make them.
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FMCR266-2025
Discount code for the frame.
https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame
Thanks
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FMCR266-2025
Discount code for the frame.
https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame
Thanks
Maybe also sell it without the handlebars? 38cm minimum is just too wide for a lot of people I guess.
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FMCR266-2025
Discount code for the frame.
https://tideacebike.com/collections/disc-brake-frame/products/fm-cr266-ultralight-road-bike-frame
Thanks
Are the bigger frames going to come back in stock soon?
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Are the bigger frames going to come back in stock soon?
I don't think XL and XXL are being made, unless someone makes a bulk order which would warrant producing the mold for these sizes as well. That's at least my understanding about how this works.
Just opened this topic to ask a question about sizing too: I am 184cm (185cm on a good day) with 86 cm inseam. Is anybody else of similar size and ordered the frame in size L? I currently ride the Velobuild VB-R-177 in size XL (with 100mm stem length), and to be honest, one of the reasons I am switching is also because the bike feels too long and a little bit uncomfortable. I think going to the size 56 with the Spcycle R088 (and also the SL8 according to Specialized online fitting tool) would fit me really well, but I am not sure whether the size difference compared to the LTK266-D-SL (in L) would be too large.
For anyone interested in what this means in terms of numbers, here are the geometry charts of relevant sizes:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/spcycle-r088-2025-56,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-xl,velobuild-vb-r-177-2021-xl/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/spcycle-r088-2025-56,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-xl,velobuild-vb-r-177-2021-xl/)
I know that a lot can be done with saddle height, the amount of headset spacers and the handlebar stem length, but only to a point when it looks to too ridiculous to be ridden outside. What do you all think?
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Just opened this topic to ask a question about sizing too: I am 184cm (185cm on a good day) with 86 cm inseam. Is anybody else of similar size and ordered the frame in size L?
I am 183cm with an 85cm inseam. I ride a size L with the stem slammed and a -10 degree, 130mm stem + 380mm width bars.
I came to the LTK266-D-SL from a bike with the same Stack/Reach as the Spcycle R088(56) you linked. The change I made for this new fit was going from 120mm stem to 130mm stem. However, one thing I'm still figuring out is saddle position. LTK only comes with zero offset seatpost, and I was on a -15mm offset before. I'm experimenting with more aggressive forward positions now, taking advantage of the zero offset (I had the seat slammed forward on previous bike). Haven't found the ideal yet. Don't feel cramped on the bike, and my arms are relatively long. You have to like long stems like me and patrick lino tho.
hope this helps.
edit: forgot to add, but personally I could never see myself on an XL like the velobuild you also link in geometrygeeks. Too long of a frame, too long front-center. I like the slightly smaller more compact frames and then long slammed stem. But in my friend group (many of whom are between 5'11 and 6'2", ex-rowers and other college athletes) the preferences are pretty mixed between 56 and 58 and dont seem to correlate as close with height and inseam as I would expect! It's so personal.
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I am 183cm with an 85cm inseam. I ride a size L with the stem slammed and a -10 degree, 130mm stem + 380mm width bars.
I came to the LTK266-D-SL from a bike with the same Stack/Reach as the Spcycle R088(56) you linked. The change I made for this new fit was going from 120mm stem to 130mm stem. However, one thing I'm still figuring out is saddle position. LTK only comes with zero offset seatpost, and I was on a -15mm offset before. I'm experimenting with more aggressive forward positions now, taking advantage of the zero offset (I had the seat slammed forward on previous bike). Haven't found the ideal yet. Don't feel cramped on the bike, and my arms are relatively long. You have to like long stems like me and patrick lino tho.
hope this helps.
edit: forgot to add, but personally I could never see myself on an XL like the velobuild you also link in geometrygeeks. Too long of a frame, too long front-center. I like the slightly smaller more compact frames and then long slammed stem. But in my friend group (many of whom are between 5'11 and 6'2", ex-rowers and other college athletes) the preferences are pretty mixed between 56 and 58 and dont seem to correlate as close with height and inseam as I would expect! It's so personal.
Hey, I saw your previous post on sizing in this topic, and thanks for describing your experience again. It's really difficult as I want something that handles similarly to my VB-R-177, but is shorter, which might be completely contradictory. In addition, I have limited experience with different geometries, and there are multiple factors I am considering overall. I hope you don't mind if I ask you a few more questions, as you seem to know what you want:
- How would you describe the difference in ride feel between having a long vs. a short frame? I want to imagine in what way I am going to feel different depending on whether I choose LTK266-D-SL vs. R088 compared to my VB-R-177.
- What kind of tradeoff are you, personally, trying to balance as you are moving the seat? More comfort vs. aero? Are you keeping the stem length and headset height the same as you experiment?
Upon checking the first post for your build, what worries me right now is that my seatpost would be sticking slightly more out than in your build, I would probably not ride the handlebars as slammed as you -- right now I use 15mm of spacers on my VB-R-177 -- and also not have a stem that is as long. I have to think about whether this would be weird to me, as it feels like the whole bike would look way more "upright". There are some things about bike geometries that I still don't understand, but I hope I will get to the bottom of this eventually.
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- How would you describe the difference in ride feel between having a long vs. a short frame? I want to imagine in what way I am going to feel different depending on whether I choose LTK266-D-SL vs. R088 compared to my VB-R-177.
- What kind of tradeoff are you, personally, trying to balance as you are moving the seat? More comfort vs. aero? Are you keeping the stem length and headset height the same as you experiment?
1. I've only ridden on a missized race bike frame a few times. I don't think I can advise you on how you will feel on a longer vs a shorter reach frame -- which will also mean different stacks and other geo changes. There are so many factors beyond height and inseam, like torso/arm length, flexibility, how many spacers, what your preferred arm/elbow angle is, what bar width you're going to use (relative to shoulder width)...i could go on and on. As you mentioned it's different if you are adding spacers. I recommend using a website like www.bikegeocalc.com/ and actually inputting all of your current measurements and components and then mapping them onto the (possible) new frames, factoring in the new components you would have, such as a different bar-stem setup. You could replicate your current fit, at least. In terms of how changes to that fit will make you feel -- I can't tell you anything from here on the message board, and even with more info I'm not a bike fitter in the least :-X
Why I go for smaller frame is partly wanting a lower stack and more seatpost - 58 usually have higher frame stack than I want. I like that pro look, too, with the long stem -- it's an aesthetic thing. And I don't feel cramped once I get the long stem, so why go bigger? Sorry for this rambly answer, but I'm really not a bike tester or all that experienced with different frames, I've just ridden my friends' bikes a few times and gravel race bikes with long reach and shorter stem to compensate (e.g. BMC kaius) and those experiences have generally confirmed my preferences for a road setup.
2. Just experimenting with ~5-10mm forward. It's trendy to be more forward and over top of the BB these days. I also moved from 172.5mm cranks to 170, so I wonder if that gives me some room to play with. I'm keeping the front end the same (can't change it without major expense anyways).
edit: one thing -- my LTK266-D-SL still has a lot more seatpost that could be exposed without getting close to the minimal insertion, so don't worry about that.
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You might not realize it, but just describing the reasoning behind your choices helps a lot -- even though I am slightly taller and have different preferences. When not being sure how changes are reflected in the final position on the bike just hearing experiences from other riders is helpful as it highlights the properties of the bike fit that might be worth paying attention to.
For example, what you say about your reasons for going with smaller frames makes me think that I would prefer a larger size. I think the slammed handlebars and a 110mm stem length is the maximum I want to go with, and I am also not a big fan of seat posts sticking out too much -- I guess an overall balanced look is something I like.
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You might not realize it, but just describing the reasoning behind your choices helps a lot -- even though I am slightly taller and have different preferences. When not being sure how changes are reflected in the final position on the bike just hearing experiences from other riders is helpful as it highlights the properties of the bike fit that might be worth paying attention to.
For example, what you say about your reasons for going with smaller frames makes me think that I would prefer a larger size. I think the slammed handlebars and a 110mm stem length is the maximum I want to go with, and I am also not a big fan of seat posts sticking out too much -- I guess an overall balanced look is something I like.
just a note -- you wouldn't have a slammed bar on a smaller frame, whereas I need a smaller frame to get the lower stack I want, which would not be physically possible on (most) XL frames. But I get your point on the aesthetics, and I think in the morning haze i misspoke a bit. Fit is more important than that, and I do not decide on my seat height or stem length because of how it looks (it's a kind of aesthetic payoff to "look like the pros")...I do it for optimizing comfort, efficiency, and aero position. more seatpost also means more compliance.
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just a note -- you wouldn't have a slammed bar on a smaller frame, whereas I need a smaller frame to get the lower stack I want, which would not be physically possible on (most) XL frames. But I get your point on the aesthetics, and I think in the morning haze i misspoke a bit. Fit is more important than that, and I do not decide on my seat height or stem length because of how it looks (it's a kind of aesthetic payoff to "look like the pros")...I do it for optimizing comfort, efficiency, and aero position. more seatpost also means more compliance.
Yes, of course, I understand. I probably also wouldn't think so much about the aesthetics if I had a frame already and I would have to make it work by changing the handlebars and seat height, but now that I am building a new bike, I want to check as many boxes as I can.
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@benquick vs the r088, this bike will probably need a 10mm longer stem. That's not crazy, and since it has a slacker HTA, it should actually feel a bit more stable.
Vs. your VBr177, I can see the potential issue with sizing and spacers; though the size L 266 doesn't seem to require an unreasonably long stem, and an extra headset spacer probably shouldn't be a deal breaker either.
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I am planning to use T4 ULTRA handlebars as they have a 13mm rise, so the spacers could literally stay the same. That being said I already use 25mm on my VB-R-177, and wouldn't mind using less for aesthetics.
I have a little bit of FOMO, as I am realizing more and more that LTK266-D-SL in size XL would actually be just what I need. Slightly higher stack (= equal or less spacers than on my VB-R-177 = more aesthetic), and shorter reach (= can use current length stem = ease the pressure on my hands and make the bike feel less "long"). Really too bad they are not making the frame in that size, as I don't think I will be going with the size L due to so many variables changing (also how far forward / backward I would be positioned on the bike) that can alter my ride feel compared to my current bike.
Again, I am probably overthinking this a bit, as if I had the frame already I could probably make it work, and even with all the measurements in advance I actually can't predict everything regarding the bike feel.
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The game is back on. I asked Alisa whether they are having any plans for XL sizes, and she replied that XL and XXL framesets are planned to be available sometime in January. Long time to go, but I won't be needing a new frame before spring anyway, so I think they just won me back.
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Oh this is big news! I wonder if these means that Permeants is also looking at international distribution…
I will add the info to the front page.
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my frame arrived 8) :) color is better than expected! was going a bit risky but not too dissapointed! the ud transparent is sadly just matt black!
pictures are following but short question what spacers you guys are using! the ones i received with the frame are crazy heavy and pretty bad finished!
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Some Weights:
- Frame: 745g
- Fork: 315g
- Seatpost: 93g (only carbon)
- Seatpost: 52g (Metal Parts)
- Seatpost Clamp: 22g
- front axle: 32g (M12*P1,5 116)
- rear axle: 46g (M12*P1,0 168,5)
- UDH Hanger: 19g
- Front Hanger: 16g
- Cockpit LTK : 431g (100*400)
- Headset LTK: 94g
- Expander LTK: 37g
- Ahead LTK: 17g
- Spacer 5mm LTK: 10g
- Spacer 10mm LTK: 21g
- Spacer 20mm LTK: 40g
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ughhh... I was planning to pull the trigger on the LightCarbon LCR018-D but the more I think about it, the more attractive this frame is. I know its not the same geo but why not spend a bit more for a more aggressive but significantly higher spec frame as your base for your build? The wider tire clearance was my main attraction to both.
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ughhh... I was planning to pull the trigger on the LightCarbon LCR018-D but the more I think about it, the more attractive this frame is. I know its not the same geo but why not spend a bit more for a more aggressive but significantly higher spec frame as your base for your build? The wider tire clearance was my main attraction to both.
I am a huge bike fit, geometry, and physics/ engineering nerd and--just as a word of warning 15mm reach at the same stack is a massive difference. Similarly, that difference in the front center can have a noticeable difference in handling too. It tends to get downplayed here, because its easy to fall in love with the way something looks (I am guilty of it too!), and the cost tends to be attractive.
This bike is very much in the vein of the Giant TCR and other race bikes, not an endurance bike like the Defy.
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I am a huge bike fit, geometry, and physics/ engineering nerd and--just as a word of warning 15mm reach at the same stack is a massive difference. Similarly, that difference in the front center can have a noticeable difference in handling too. It tends to get downplayed here, because its easy to fall in love with the way something looks (I am guilty of it too!), and the cost tends to be attractive.
This bike is very much in the vein of the Giant TCR and other race bikes, not an endurance bike like the Defy.
Yeah definitely. Im just all over the place right now. I originally wanted a endurance do it all bike but going all out with a surgical tool is also calling for me
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So the XXL has a reach of 401mm but an ETT of 590 !! which is super long. Is this because it uses a zero offset seatpost which would bring it back to 570/575mm ?
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DIY oven. Holds +/-3C
Tweaked the oven a bit with some 12v 120mm computer fans I had lying around and it would hold within +/-1(!) Kind of irrelevant as the cure temperatures Cerakote quote are up to 300C but I didn't trust a third party to not overcook the frame. I suspect the epoxies are low temperature curing so wanted to exercise caution.
Sprayed with a super cheap hvlp Wagner and it came out pretty decently but I definitely put it on too thick as there's some orange peel. Really needed a gun with an adjustable fan/round as most of it went in the air.
Exactly 25g for the frame only - was running out the door so photos tomorrow. 15g certainly sounds plausible if you spray stuff for a living.
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my frame arrived 8) :) color is better than expected! was going a bit risky but not too dissapointed! the ud transparent is sadly just matt black!
pictures are following but short question what spacers you guys are using! the ones i received with the frame are crazy heavy and pretty bad finished!
can someone help with alternative spacer ideas? orderd a fsa55 but dont know if the ltk cockpit work with fsa spacers... the spacer quality from the ltk cockpit is so ridiculous bad! not usable! lets see whats alisa is saying....
PS: Pictures are showing 5mm and 10mm pinned together! alignment is all over the place :-X
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can someone help with alternative spacer ideas? orderd a fsa55 but dont know if the ltk cockpit work with fsa spacers... the spacer quality from the ltk cockpit is so ridiculous bad! not usable! lets see whats alisa is saying....
PS: Pictures are showing 5mm and 10mm pinned together! alignment is all over the place :-X
Did the cockpit come with any other spacers or adapters? Would be helpful to see a photo of everything that came with that barstem.
Agree those are bad. Some of the plastic ones get better with the steerer tube inside. Are these aluminum?
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yes pretty heavy aluminum! i listed the weights above… i make a picture with all the pieces i received
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yes pretty heavy aluminum! i listed the weights above… i make a picture with all the pieces i received
Is the top headset cover round measuring 56/57mm in diameter ?
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took some more photos today halfway through a chill spin. See attached.
*
I gotta say folks, and I take no pleasure in saying it-- I don't think getting that LTK cockpit is at all worth it. Now that we see the weights (and perhaps more issues with headset?) we may want to even more forcefully advise on going aftermarket (e.g. XMCS, Tavelo, Canary, EXS, AliEx, whatever). 20g for a 10mm spacer? The LTK cockpit at 100x400 is around 100g heavier than my 130x380 Tavelo cockpit...it seems like you start to lose the benefits of the superlightweight frame.
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Is the top headset cover round measuring 56/57mm in diameter ?
yes the bottom part is round 58mm
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ordered it just because of the low price
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I gotta say folks, and I take no pleasure in saying it-- I don't think getting that LTK cockpit is at all worth it. Now that we see the weights (and perhaps more issues with headset?) we may want to even more forcefully advise on going aftermarket (e.g. XMCS, Tavelo, Canary, EXS, AliEx, whatever). 20g for a 10mm spacer? The LTK cockpit at 100x400 is around 100g heavier than my 130x380 Tavelo cockpit...it seems like you start to lose the benefits of the superlightweight frame.
This was already in the guide.
I have no experience with the current latest Avian stuff, but based on what I have seen, it's hard to recommend that one either. I think the XMCS, Tavelo, Quick Pro, EXS, and Speeder barstems are the way to go if a one-piece is a must for you. Speaking Quick Pro, their spacers seem the closest to this design, but I don't know if I would spend more money trying to make the LTK one work, as it would be a gamble. I would go with the XMCS or Speeder bar stems because they are compatible with the FSA spacer stack, which should help with compatibility and parts sourcing.
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This was already in the guide.
I have no experience with the current latest Avian stuff, but based on what I have seen, it's hard to recommend that one either. I think the XMCS, Tavelo, Quick Pro, EXS, and Speeder barstems are the way to go if a one-piece is a must for you. Speaking Quick Pro, their spacers seem the closest to this design, but I don't know if I would spend more money trying to make the LTK one work, as it would be a gamble. I would go with the XMCS or Speeder bar stems because they are compatible with the FSA spacer stack, which should help with compatibility and parts sourcing.
Yeah, I guess what I meant is that perhaps we (by which I mean you, it's your post ;) ) might amp up the language from "it seems hard to recommend" to something more forceful. I haven't kept up with Avian or that much of the barstem discourse tbh, so sorry if that mentio was off-base. As ever, thanks for leading on this and helping with the headset/spacer/cockpit mishegas.
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Yeah, I had read all the posts about the issues with this cockpit, but I still wanted to take the risk and give it a try. I was already aware that there might be some problems, but for 90 dollars I just wanted to test it myself!
I’ve already reached out to Alisa to see if she has any solution for me.
I also got three FSA stems (100–120 mm) to figure out which cockpit setup actually fits me best before spending 200–400 dollars on one.
Maybe I can even test the cockpit with the FSA headset.
But honestly, those aluminum spacers are surprisingly bad — really disappointing quality!
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Yeah, I guess what I meant is that perhaps we (by which I mean you, it's your post ;) ) might amp up the language from "it seems hard to recommend" to something more forceful. I haven't kept up with Avian or that much of the barstem discourse tbh, so sorry if that mentio was off-base. As ever, thanks for leading on this and helping with the headset/spacer/cockpit mishegas.
Ok, done. I also added the section on the spacers' quality and relative weight per the info from @oker_s.
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but if someone can help with other spacers i would give the handlebar a try! some quick pics:
Black part was promissed to be just ud raw with matt clear cote!
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Guys, what do you think about TFSA JH-35 versus LTK266-D-SL? Exactly the same geometry, price $1030 (turns out to be ~$100 more expensive?) with a good handlebar and the rest, free shipping (Ali), seems no problems with the headset. Now I'm stuck between these two.
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but if someone can help with other spacers i would give the handlebar a try! some quick pics:
Black part was promissed to be just ud raw with matt clear cote!
Besides these issues with the spacers, honestly, this also looks awful. Just why? I'm really sorry, but the more I look at it, the more I think I won't be able to sleep peacefully with something like this on my bike :-\ How could such an unsuitable, ugly part even come into existence? And it's not about the price at all, frames that are twice as cheap come with good-looking covers and spacers, and even under Permeants and Tideace brands, with a price $350 higher, a frame comes with the same unsuitable seat clamp cover.
(https://i.imgur.com/OsTXq2B.png)
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ordered it just because of the low price
I recieved the same hardware with this handlebar for my LTK268 .
But cannot asseble the spacers; I can stack them on the bottom cap but the pins dont match the holes in the handlebar!
If i try to fit the handlebar on the bottom cap (slamed stem) it fits. But the spacers seem to be off.
Is yours better?
Edit:
I did order the FSA headset because the the one that came with the frame looks bad.
Do spacers really need to hold onto the handlebar with pins? I could grind them off so they could fit under the handlebar.
I have the 268 frame so im not concerned with weight, and i would really like to make this handlebar work i dont see anything wrong with it.
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can someone help with alternative spacer ideas? orderd a fsa55 but dont know if the ltk cockpit work with fsa spacers... the spacer quality from the ltk cockpit is so ridiculous bad! not usable! lets see whats alisa is saying....
PS: Pictures are showing 5mm and 10mm pinned together! alignment is all over the place :-X
got an answer and some pics: ;D
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For the handlebar top cap , what we order from the supplier are always in glossy finish version , not in matte , thanks for your understanding !
For the handlebar spacers , it seems that there's too much space according to your pictures , generally speaking , although the aluminum ones are not like the plastic ones just have few gap , there's space more or less , but it's impossible to be misaligned so much . Please check if the 2 protrusions on each pair of the spacers are inserted to the holes of the next pair correctly , please try and adjust them . And for the headset , what we provide is the FSA specification and matched with the frame well now , the problem happened long ago , and now it's all solved . ....
told her that i alinged them correctly! lets see if there will be any solution
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Guys, what do you think about TFSA JH-35 versus LTK266-D-SL? Exactly the same geometry, price $1030 (turns out to be ~$100 more expensive?) with a good handlebar and the rest, free shipping (Ali), seems no problems with the headset. Now I'm stuck between these two.
The are a couple of differences to think about.
Front end geometry wise: the JH35 is more SL8 while the 266DSL is more TCR.
From a fit perspective the 266DSL has zero offset post while the JH35 looks like it has a setback post as the only option.
Edit: also the 266DSL has a lot more tire clearance at 35mm vs. 30mm.
I do think that a 266DSL will end up being a more expensive build since I think you would buy the frame from LTK and then get a headset from FSA and then get a handlebar from XMCS Speeder, or some other source.
Besides these issues with the spacers, honestly, this also looks awful. Just why? I'm really sorry, but the more I look at it, the more I think I won't be able to sleep peacefully with something like this on my bike :-\ How could such an unsuitable, ugly part even come into existence? And it's not about the price at all, frames that are twice as cheap come with good-looking covers and spacers, and even under Permeants and Tideace brands, with a price $350 higher, a frame comes with the same unsuitable seat clamp cover.
I was hoping to have the TPU prints in for my replacement of this part in by now, but it looks like with the holiday in the US it will be delivered on Weds. I will share photos ASAP and the CAD file is on this thread a few pages back.
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I do think that a 266DSL will end up being a more expensive build since I think you would buy the frame from LTK and then get a headset from FSA and then get a handlebar from XMCS Speeder, or some other source.
Yes, that's what I'm thinking about. The JH-35 handlebar weighs 320g (quite light, right?), no issues with the headset, no issues with the spacers, no issues with the seatpost clamp cover. It's not just about the price difference, but also, to be honest, this isn't the most interesting part of the build — searching for the better spacers and seatpost clamp covers bacause stock one is too bad. If these problems didn't exist, there would certainly be no doubt that the LTK266-D-SL looks like an excellent option then.
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JH35 is not UDH also?
I really don't want to buy anything with proprietary hanger anymore, so I find that is worth a lot for me...
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JH35 is not UDH also?
I really don't want to buy anything with proprietary hanger anymore, so I find that is worth a lot for me...
Correct, the JH-35 does not have UDH
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as a test i fitted a gravel wheelset with 38mm spezi pathfinder! fits!
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as a test i fitted a gravel wheelset with 38mm spezi pathfinder! fits!
how big does these tires measure with a caliper?
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So regarding the TPU printed covers for the seatpost clamp. I did not understand how hard the TPU would be. It sort of works. The upper profile is about right, but the part needed to try and keep the insert down were too big so I had to cut them to fit and without it, it does curl up per the second photo.
I am trying again, so we can revisit my second try in about 10 days.
(https://imgur.com/w1fJop1h.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/AiSHjTyh.jpg)
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I can already see this is going to be far superior to the original cover.
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If the TPU is too hard , maybe it is better to 3D-print an inverse mould of the part and then use some liquid silicone to make the part?
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as a test i fitted a gravel wheelset with 38mm spezi pathfinder! fits!
nice! what's the internal width on the rims, just for reference?
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as a test i fitted a gravel wheelset with 38mm spezi pathfinder! fits!
Are these the elite gravel aero+ wheels?
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nice! what's the internal width on the rims, just for reference?
how big does these tires measure with a caliper?
internal width of the rim is 25...tire is a 38 which is measuring about 39-40mm on this rim!
I'm not planing to ride these wheelset in this bike it was just a test! I'm going with 30 or 32mm gp5000
Are these the elite gravel aero+ wheels?
yes this is a elite gravel rim! dont know the exact specification! but not the cheap one.
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dumb question. Am I missing a piece or how do i fit the di2 batterie into the seatpost?
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Hi just wanted to have a quick check in on this frame.
Where are you ordering through and what's final price looking like?
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Hey everyone!
New here. Huge shoutout to sakizashi for bringing this frame to my attention.
I'm about to order the frame and sourcing the other parts.
I was planning to use the recommended FSA ACR no 55 Headset and use a standard stem/bar combo.
However, I saw that some folks on Merida Bikes (FSA) managed to fit the integrated Kocveleo Barstem. This got me curious.
Question: Any chance the Kocveleo Barstem fits the LTK266-D-SL frame using the FSA 55 headset? Sadly i am kind of a noob and could not figure it out by myself.
Appreciate any insight before I buy! Hope to drop some bike pics soon! Planning to order the frame in translucent purple.
Thanks!
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dumb question. Am I missing a piece or how do i fit the di2 batterie into the seatpost?
Pretty sure my bike came with one of those rubber-ribbed things, but someone else should confirm, since I toss all of those into a box and have no idea which one came with which bike.
Hey everyone!
New here. Huge shoutout to sakizashi for bringing this frame to my attention.
I'm about to order the frame and sourcing the other parts.
I was planning to use the recommended FSA ACR no 55 Headset and use a standard stem/bar combo.
However, I saw that some folks on Merida Bikes (FSA) managed to fit the integrated Kocveleo Barstem. This got me curious.
Question: Any chance the Kocveleo Barstem fits the LTK266-D-SL frame using the FSA 55 headset? Sadly i am kind of a noob and could not figure it out by myself.
Appreciate any insight before I buy! Hope to drop some bike pics soon! Planning to order the frame in translucent purple.
Thanks!
I still think this frame is worth the hassle of dealing with the unpolished bits, though the integrated bar from LTK really looks like something you should not be buying. I am not sure the Kocevlo one is better if it is the one in this thread:https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=5362.0
Regarding the headset, it's not a noob question; it's legit as bad as bottom-bracket standards at this point, if not worse. Some Merida bikes (e.g., the Scultura) use a shallower ream depth than the FSA and Deda standard. IMO, it's best to use a setup with an FSA ACR-specific fitment or is compatible with the spacer stack.
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Pretty sure my bike came with one of those rubber-ribbed things, but someone else should confirm, since I toss all of those into a box and have no idea which one came with which bike.
can someone confirm this? then i'm missing this piece.
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I sanded the spacers to try to make them fit better which did work to some extent!
Two larger spacers are usable now, but the smallest is way of in relation to the pins.
I have yet to try to asseble it with the handlebar,but it looks good.
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Pretty sure my bike came with one of those rubber-ribbed things, but someone else should confirm, since I toss all of those into a box and have no idea which one came with which bike.
I still think this frame is worth the hassle of dealing with the unpolished bits, though the integrated bar from LTK really looks like something you should not be buying. I am not sure the Kocevlo one is better if it is the one in this thread:https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=5362.0
Regarding the headset, it's not a noob question; it's legit as bad as bottom-bracket standards at this point, if not worse. Some Merida bikes (e.g., the Scultura) use a shallower ream depth than the FSA and Deda standard. IMO, it's best to use a setup with an FSA ACR-specific fitment or is compatible with the spacer stack.
Thanks so much for your input. Now i know that the sensible thing to do is going with the FSA stem. We'll see if I can resist the temptations of a flashy cheap integrated cockpit or if I'll just try it out. I did not consider the longteng handlebar, because i need 120mm length.
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Pretty sure my bike came with one of those rubber-ribbed things, but someone else should confirm, since I toss all of those into a box and have no idea which one came with which bike.
can someone confirm this? then i'm missing this piece.
Can no one help? In return, I believe I have solved the problem with the seatpost cover for everyone—simple, inexpensive, and feasible for anyone. ;D
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Can no one help? In return, I believe I have solved the problem with the seatpost cover for everyone—simple, inexpensive, and feasible for anyone. ;D
Sorry bro I'm running SRAM... That said, I don't remember a di2 battery holder amongst the bits and bobs. However, I did not specifically ask for one from Alisa, and I did enumerate in my email to her everything I did want to be included with the frame/seattube/fork...
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Can no one help? In return, I believe I have solved the problem with the seatpost cover for everyone—simple, inexpensive, and feasible for anyone. ;D
I would ask Alisa, she should know as there are builds with Di2 running around. The Tideace / Permeants official build also looks to be running Di2.
I am on sram and honestly wasn't paying attention to that part when unboxing.
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ll right, thank you. I was aware that both of you are using SRAM, but surely there must be some people who have built their bikes with Di2. Naturally, I asked Alisa first, but after waiting almost three days for a response, the answer I received was: “We do not provide this with this frame.”
That was quite a disappointment.
At first, I wanted to purchase a mount, but unfortunately I ordered the wrong one(27,2mm size instead 31) and therefore couldn’t determine whether a standard mount would work. I have now had one 3D-printed, which fits perfectly.
If anyone is interested, I can share the STL file.
I also believe that my rubber seatpost cover looks excellent—possibly even better than the original one, don’t you think?
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That seapost cover looks much better, what did you do / how did you get it or modify it?
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Hi, I'm thinking about getting this frame :)
I'm still unsure about the handlebars.
Do you all think that the LightCarbon HBR17 would be a good fit?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/ultra-light-and-aero-carbon-road-integrated-handlebar_p257.html
The website lists that they can supply FSA adapters.
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Hi, I'm thinking about getting this frame :)
I'm still unsure about the handlebars.
Do you all think that the LightCarbon HBR17 would be a good fit?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/ultra-light-and-aero-carbon-road-integrated-handlebar_p257.html
The website lists that they can supply FSA adapters.
Handlebar looks good if you want the 8mm Lift Design! If they provide FSA adapters, you're good to go as long as you also get the FSA No55 headset. Personally I'd prefer flat bars.
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ll right, thank you. I was aware that both of you are using SRAM, but surely there must be some people who have built their bikes with Di2. Naturally, I asked Alisa first, but after waiting almost three days for a response, the answer I received was: “We do not provide this with this frame.”
That was quite a disappointment.
At first, I wanted to purchase a mount, but unfortunately I ordered the wrong one(27,2mm size instead 31) and therefore couldn’t determine whether a standard mount would work. I have now had one 3D-printed, which fits perfectly.
If anyone is interested, I can share the STL file.
I also believe that my rubber seatpost cover looks excellent—possibly even better than the original one, don’t you think?
I've found a few wraps of bar tape offcuts hold the battery just fine. I I've got 10k incident free using this method on my previous bike. Obviously you can tailor the degree of hold very easily by varying the overlap.
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I've found a few wraps of bar tape offcuts hold the battery just fine. I I've got 10k incident free using this method on my previous bike. Obviously you can tailor the degree of hold very easily by varying the overlap.
...though your 3d printed one is obviously very nicely done. Just mentioning the tape method for anyone stuck.
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Hi, I'm thinking about getting this frame :)
I'm still unsure about the handlebars.
Do you all think that the LightCarbon HBR17 would be a good fit?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/ultra-light-and-aero-carbon-road-integrated-handlebar_p257.html
The website lists that they can supply FSA adapters.
I dont know how much stack you need, but I think this handle bar with the FSA adapter should look really nice with this frame.
I would get the "FSA No. 55R 1.5' ACR Low Stack Headset" as it has the updated 42mm upper bearing the C ring that I think works better than the older version of the headset. It should all match up really nicely.
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At first, I wanted to purchase a mount, but unfortunately I ordered the wrong one(27,2mm size instead 31) and therefore couldn’t determine whether a standard mount would work. I have now had one 3D-printed, which fits perfectly.
If anyone is interested, I can share the STL file.
I also believe that my rubber seatpost cover looks excellent—possibly even better than the original one, don’t you think?
Hi, the seatpost cover looks very neat. did you 3d print this too?
I'd be really interested in the Di2 battery holder and seatpost cover if possible? Please and thanks!
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Do you want the parts already printed or the STL files? I’ll take a look at how I can upload the files to Thingiverse.
For the seatpost cover, I ordered one from the Giant Defy (part number 1724-SPSHIM-901). It costs only €1.49 at Bike24.
https://www.bike24.de/p1563910.html
Spacer-wise, I haven't found anything so far — maybe I’ll just print something myself.
Does anyone know a cheap handlebar with integrated cable routing (with the hole at the back)? I have three FSA stems (100–120 mm) to figure out the right length, but it’s harder than I expected to find a regular handlebar with integrated routing. I know Ritchey has some models, but I don’t like their handlebar shapes. It also shouldn’t be too expensive since I only need it for testing before I buy a proper cockpit once I know the right size.
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I dont know how much stack you need, but I think this handle bar with the FSA adapter should look really nice with this frame.
I would get the "FSA No. 55R 1.5' ACR Low Stack Headset" as it has the updated 42mm upper bearing the C ring that I think works better than the older version of the headset. It should all match up really nicely.
i didnt noticed that there a different models! cant find your exact modell on fsa website! can you post a link! i'm using the fsa 55 acr which works just fine
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i didnt noticed that there a different models! cant find your exact modell on fsa website! can you post a link! i'm using the fsa 55 acr which works just fine
They are similar parts; the dealer catalog has them listed as:
- No 55R ACR - STD, often listed by dealers as No. 55R ACR Standard: Uses 2 TH MR127 bearings (Part No. 13000021000110)
- No 55R ACR - LS, often listed by dealers as No. 55R ACR Low Stack: Uses 1 TH MR127 bearing on the bottom and THMR261A bearing for the top (Part No. 130-0020000010)
Additionally, the Low Stack headset comes with a lower profile headset cover (4.4mm vs. 10.4mm) and an updated C-Ring.
In an effort to keep everyone confused, I *think* the LS headset is replacing the STD version in the lineup, hence the similar part numbers, but IDK, this is FSA we are talking about, which has had at least one other No. 55R headset variant in the past. If you have the STD headset and its working, there is not much reason IMO to get the LS version unless you want the lower stack.
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ok i have a 10mm top cap! yeah i was just curious because i couldnt find 2 different versions....
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ok i have a 10mm top cap! yeah i was just curious because i couldnt find 2 different versions....
What is the gap like between your headset cover and the frame with the normal ACR headset? Are you using 8mm bearings upper and lower? I've ordered the frame and starting to get the parts together. Getting the low stack version seems impossible in the UK (the one Sazikashi mentions). I found one from the US but they want 85 dollars shipping to UK on eBay. Thanks in advance.
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I'm very close to ordering this frameset. Does anybody have some more examples of the UD matte frame?
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So regarding the TPU printed covers for the seatpost clamp. I did not understand how hard the TPU would be. It sort of works. The upper profile is about right, but the part needed to try and keep the insert down were too big so I had to cut them to fit and without it, it does curl up per the second photo.
I am trying again, so we can revisit my second try in about 10 days.
(https://imgur.com/w1fJop1h.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/AiSHjTyh.jpg)
Did you buy this or print this at home? Do you have a link? :)
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he printed i showed a buy option...just scroll through 1 or 2 sites back
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What BB is every one using? Do you need a 85.5mm version or a 86.5mm version? It's only 1mm difference, but it seems one will not fit the other...
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What BB is every one using? Do you need a 85.5mm version or a 86.5mm version? It's only 1mm difference, but it seems one will not fit the other...
SRAM DUB T47 (85.5mm) ROAD
Someone more authoritative should chime in, but my understanding is that 86.5/85.5 isn't meaningfully different as long as they are T47 internal BB -- for instance, BBInfinite's DUB Internal T47 is 86.5 https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/t47-threaded-internal-dub-road-bottom-brackets?variant=37605952290972 vs the SRAM DUB one I have is https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/sram-dub-t47-bottom-bracket is 85.5 -- probably what changes is the spacer? When you install SRAM's own DUB t47 road internal, you use an (included in package) 3mm outer right spacer -- see https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/7unL17qdyCWxTL38aPmYJ0/UM%20-%20DUB%20Cranksets%20and%20Bottom%20Brackets?models=bb-dub-t47-a1#hashItem=dub-road-bottom-bracket-spacer-chart
I can't speak to what people are doing for different cranks/spindles/cranksets.
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SRAM DUB T47 (85.5mm) ROAD
Someone more authoritative should chime in, but my understanding is that 86.5/85.5 isn't meaningfully different as long as they are T47 internal BB -- for instance, BBInfinite's DUB Internal T47 is 86.5 https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/t47-threaded-internal-dub-road-bottom-brackets?variant=37605952290972 vs the SRAM DUB one I have is https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/sram-dub-t47-bottom-bracket is 85.5 -- probably what changes is the spacer? When you install SRAM's own DUB t47 road internal, you use an (included in package) 3mm outer right spacer -- see https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/7unL17qdyCWxTL38aPmYJ0/UM%20-%20DUB%20Cranksets%20and%20Bottom%20Brackets?models=bb-dub-t47-a1#hashItem=dub-road-bottom-bracket-spacer-chart
I can't speak to what people are doing for different cranks/spindles/cranksets.
From what I have read the flanges on the 85.5 version are a little wider than the 86.5 version to compensate for the 1mm difference. So if you have a crankset that has a spindle that is short and does not need spacers, the wider flanges in a 86.5mm BB shell can be too wide.
But I guess I am over-analysing :)
Just ordered the naked UD matte finish frame in S
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i#m using a praxis 85,5 shimano modell with ultegra groupset
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I am using a Wolftooth BB I managed to get for cheap. The primary reason is that it uses the same Enduro spline pattern as another BB I already have a nice tool for. It is a 85.5mm BB, but I think most T47i now go between 85.5mm and 92mm. I always measure the crank position relative to the seat tube centerline when preloaded and correct with 0.5mm spacers, and I rely on the suggested setup only as a starting point.
If cost were not a factor, my preferred setup for Dub is to use either a Hope BB or an Enduro ACB BB with 30mm bearings, and then use the aluminum Hope dub reducers/tophats as a softer wear surface between my cranks and the bearing races. IMO, the bike-specific 29mm and 24mm bearings are a step backwards. Very cheap plastic reducers/top hats have started to appear on AliExpress as well, and I've used them on a build and been happy with how they have held up too.
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I've got confirmation from Alisa it is 85.5mm
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Hey all, I've updated the first post to include the information on clear coat finishes, the BB standard, and the Di2 holder being missing.
Let me know if anyone has any other thoughts to add to that post. Trying to treat it like a wiki so people can find everything they need in that first post.
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perhaps the fitting giant seatpost cover?
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I'm tempted by this frameset now that larger sizes may be available.
Given that it uses a D-shaped and the GIANT seatpost cover works, anyone tried Giants di2 Seatpost battery holder?
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couldnt find one for giant defy
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perhaps the fitting giant seatpost cover?
Added. Thanks!
For folks looking in the USA or Canada, prices seem all over the place for this part, most around $10, some as high as $30+
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Added. Thanks!
For folks looking in the USA or Canada, prices seem all over the place for this part, most around $10, some as high as $30+
payed 1,49€ ::)
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payed 1,49€ ::)
Well. Giant spares are surprisingly hard to get in the US, and I don't have a dealer close to me that I could check their catalog for official pricing. I suspect it's like $5 or less. Unfortunately, shipping from bike24 isn't cheap anymore even if you buy some tires or something you might need later. *something about US politics goes here*.
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It looks like the GIA150000049 kit should fit the defy seatpost.
Found it at least one german online-shop, https://www.bike-onlineshop.de/Giant-Di2-Battery-Holder-Kit-for-Propel-TCR-Defy-ISP.htm?shop=bike_en&a=article&ProdNr=GIA150000049
I have this kit for my old TCX frame, but no LTK266 seatpost to try it out on :)
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i have a seatpost to test ;D shipping is 7@ so 20€ just for testing is to expensive for me. Im happy with my 3d printed batterieholder
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Hi all, so finally got around to putting the 2nd design of this cover on the bike. IMO, this is good to go and looks great.
The STL file is attached.
If you would rather buy it from me, you can find it here: https://aprotobike.com/products/ltk-266-d-sl-seat-post-wedge-cover
If you want to buy a headset cover specifically for this bike, DM me and I will give you a hefty extra discount.
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I went down the rabbit hole and placed an order on a XXL frame,
I really shouldn't get another bike, but tinkering with a build during the winter months is to tempting. 🙂
May be interesting to now that the larger sizes are possible to order now.
No estimated delivery date yet, but ill ask alisia.
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I went down the rabbit hole and placed an order on a XXL frame,
I thought they only had S/M/L sizes available?
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I thought they only had S/M/L sizes available?
They quietly (like everything they do) added sizes for orders a couple of months ago. They also show up on the listings for the Permeants ST09, though the larger sizes aren't available to order yet through that brand.
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I went down the rabbit hole and placed an order on a XXL frame,
I really shouldn't get another bike, but tinkering with a build during the winter months is to tempting. 🙂
May be interesting to now that the larger sizes are possible to order now.
No estimated delivery date yet, but ill ask alisia.
Alisia did get back to me on delivery date, there is no stock for XXL now.
Expected delivery is in 2.5month, since the roads around me are covered in ice and snow until mid March/early April i still have plenty of time for assembly.
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Wow. This model being released in tall boy sizes is really exciting! I am evenly torn between this and the FM126 that hasn't been released yet. I'm in the same situation where I don't actually need a road bike for a few months, so I'm looking forward to seeing the release of the smaller sizes of the FM126 come out in the next few months, as well as the XL/XXL stock coming in for the LTK266-D-SL.
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Just received some pictures of the frame I ordered. Size Small, transparent black glossy. Should be in the UK in about 3 weeks’ time!
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Hi everyone,
I also received my LTK266-D-SL and for now everything looks really nice. The frame is very well made, no wrinkles, etc.. I went with custom paintjob, which is ok, not the best but not bad. I would say paint is relatively thin, probably the purpose behind it is keeping the weight down. My frame (size L) weighted in at 780g with derailleur hangers, forks are 330g (uncut steerer), seatpost with all hardware just under 150g...so it is indeed a lightweight frameset.
I assembled bike, but haven't ridden it yet.
Regarding the sizing - at the time I ordered the frame, only S, M, L sizes were available. At 183cm and a little less than 80cm saddle height i think it is okay, but it is a good idea to match the frameset with longer stem because it is not a very long frame in terms of reach. Also, I plan to remove spacers because I think bike will fit me okay if I slam it.
Based on what I have observed till now, it is a really nice frameset ,kudos to Long Teng :)
About the weight, I did not assemble my wheelset yet, but I weighed the bike with brothers' wheelset. With pedals (no bartape), it is 7.3kgs. I find this very good for a Ltwoo erx build & Magene P515 crank and Conti Grand Prix TR tires (are quite heavy). With GP5000s S TR and lighter wheelset, the bike will be ~ 7.0kg, pedals included.
Big thanks to everyone who helped make this thread very useful!
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both are looking great! the black transparanent is the first time its really transparaent :)
Hi everyone,
I also received my LTK266-D-SL and for now everything looks really nice. The frame is very well made, no wrinkles, etc.. I went with custom paintjob, which is ok, not the best but not bad. I would say paint is relatively thin, probably the purpose behind it is keeping the weight down. My frame (size L) weighted in at 780g with derailleur hangers, forks are 330g (uncut steerer), seatpost with all hardware just under 150g...so it is indeed a lightweight frameset.
I assembled bike, but haven't ridden it yet.
Regarding the sizing - at the time I ordered the frame, only S, M, L sizes were available. At 183cm and a little less than 80cm saddle height i think it is okay, but it is a good idea to match the frameset with longer stem because it is not a very long frame in terms of reach. Also, I plan to remove spacers because I think bike will fit me okay if I slam it.
Based on what I have observed till now, it is a really nice frameset ,kudos to Long Teng :)
About the weight, I did not assemble my wheelset yet, but I weighed the bike with brothers' wheelset. With pedals (no bartape), it is 7.3kgs. I find this very good for a Ltwoo erx build & Magene P515 crank and Conti Grand Prix TR tires (are quite heavy). With GP5000s S TR and lighter wheelset, the bike will be ~ 7.0kg, pedals included.
Big thanks to everyone who helped make this thread very useful!
what kind of saddle and cockpit are you running?
I’ve finally taken my SL266 out for its first outdoor rides, and it’s honestly the best bike I own! Fast, comfortable, and a total blast to ride. :) ;D 8)
Last year, I spent most of my time on a steel frame with modern road geometry(in total 17tkm), and I’m impressed that the SL266 easily keeps up in terms of comfort! Up until now, I mostly used it on the trainer to dial in my position since it’s winter here in Germany. The only thing I’ll likely change is the cockpit length. I’m currently running the stock 100mm/80mm reach combo, but I think 120/80mm would be ideal. I’ll see how it goes after a few more miles.
I’ve also 3D-printed a few parts for the LTK cockpit if anyone is interested: adapters for FSA spacers and headsets, direct headset covers, and a 7/8/9-degree wedge for the Wahoo/Garmin mount. Without the wedge, the mount pointed upwards at an awkward angle; in my opinion, it needs to be flush with the stem to look right. Now it looks perfect! I’ll try to post some pictures later.
I’ll take some proper photos of the bike once the weather clears up. By the way, the current weight is 7.4 kg with a full Ultegra group, a standard wheelset (1450g, 45mm depth), 30/32mm GP5000 AS TR tires, and Favero power meter pedals. Next i will try my deeper wheelset with lighter tires and look whats changing
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Hi,
Yesterday I received my Permanents ST 09 in transparent red.
The color is very nice and it seems very well finished, but I need to examine it more closely. I'll post some photos as soon as I can.
I have some questions about the headset. I've seen the Token TK1556SP, which seems better designed for not mounting an integrated handlebar. I'm wondering if it will be compatible. It has a 45/45 bottom bracket instead of the 36/45. I understand that the important factor is the external angle, but I don't know if anyone can confirm this.
I'm going to set it up with Di2; does anyone know if rubber caps are needed for the front and rear derailleurs?
Does anyone know what cable length might be needed for a size S? 600 and1200?
Thanks
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Just received some pictures of the frame I ordered. Size Small, transparent black glossy. Should be in the UK in about 3 weeks’ time!
Do you know if the transparent paint is lighter or available with other colors?
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I find this very good for a Ltwoo erx
What handlebar is this? Also do you find that the LTWOO shifters clamp just wont tighten enough to not slip. Its probable just me not torquing them enough but don't want to crack anything.
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Do you know if the transparent paint is lighter or available with other colors?
I think it's just a thin layer of normal paint. I ordered a custom transparent pink and was given a couple normal paints to choose from. The result is super dark, but you can see the original color shining a bit under a strong light. Same weight as other transparent colors roughly (785 g), cost was $90. I'm sure a full normal paint job would weigh significantly more.
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Do you know if the transparent paint is lighter or available with other colors?
The transparant colored paint will be heavier. I have ordered the matte clear coat. Should be the lightest (and cheapest) option.
Looks like my frame is going to be delivered on monday. I must say shipping took a long time.
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Hi,
I'm trying to plan ahead and order miscellaneous bits and pieces for a smooth build when the frame arrives.
There's a lot of good info on the updated first post, but im missing some details, i hope you who have the frame can provide some more details :).
a) Length of rear caliper bolts or thickness of the chainstay at the caliper mounting point
b) Dimension of saddleclamp bolt (thread and length)
Merry Xmas
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Does this frame work nice with mechanical groupsets?
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Hi guys have ordered and want to thank you all for the info gathered so far.
Just so I have this right, we can only use the LT seatpost and no other? Is it worth ordering spares??
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Hi guys,
I got word from Alisa at Long Teng and also from Mondince that the size XL will be available in February / March ;D
I am about to order one, but I want to run conventional handlebar / stem combinations with my trusty 360/400mm flared bar. Alisa told me that semi integrated cable routing through the headset cover would be possible, but they do not have anything available for that. Has anyone built the frame with a conventional stem? If so, which headset upper did you use?
Thanky
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Do people have some long term review?
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Hi guys,
I got word from Alisa at Long Teng and also from Mondince that the size XL will be available in February / March ;D
I am about to order one, but I want to run conventional handlebar / stem combinations with my trusty 360/400mm flared bar. Alisa told me that semi integrated cable routing through the headset cover would be possible, but they do not have anything available for that. Has anyone built the frame with a conventional stem? If so, which headset upper did you use?
Thanky
Yes. Ive done this. The most options would be available for the FSA No 55. headset for aftermarket solutions or the FSA No 69. SRS if you want to use a stock one. The first post on this thread has more details on headset compatibility.
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Well, it looks like Hermes/Evri is being Hermes again and my frame is “delayed”. I really hope they haven’t lost it and I can get my hands on it soon.
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Well, it looks like Hermes/Evri is being Hermes again and my frame is “delayed”. I really hope they haven’t lost it and I can get my hands on it soon.
My frame also took a long time to get here (belgium) with a few delays here and there. Looks like most compagnies are a little bussy with the holidays and I guess the China frames are very low on their priority list.
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So I finally got my frame this week. It took quite a while, but communication with LT was very good while I was waiting.
I have also started to build the bike and can't say anything bad about it. Everything went fine :) The matte transparant finish also looks very good.
I am going with a Dura Ace groupset and the Bigrock crank. I am also going to build a new wheelset, but I am waiting for the spokes to arrive before I can finish them and finalize the build.
Frame weight was 750gr. Fork 316 and seatpost about 160.
The way everything is going, I should get a sub 6,3 kg bike in the end (without pedals and bottlecages that is)
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Hi All,
Looking at this frame as well.
Reading the ride reviews I read people experience it as a stiff bike. However the weight seems so low to the point it even makes me wonder if it's too good to be true.
How come LT seems to pull of these kind of weights, while the ''reputable'' brands are often quite a bit heavier, even for similar silhouette frames. Especially the LT forks seem stupid light for such a tire clearance and Axle to crown length?
I'm not the lightest at around 77KG. And to counter that weight I need to put in some power to get actually moving up hills ;). Seeing a 330g fork weight makes me wonder how they get it as light as an Open Mind fork for example, which is one of the skinniest fork I've ever seen.
Looking at the size L. Can anyone with real world riding comment on the perceived flex from the fork/frame? Also under braking/descending etc? Any concerns on longevity/safety?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi,
I'm trying to plan ahead and order miscellaneous bits and pieces for a smooth build when the frame arrives.
There's a lot of good info on the updated first post, but im missing some details, i hope you who have the frame can provide some more details :).
a) Length of rear caliper bolts or thickness of the chainstay at the caliper mounting point
b) Dimension of saddleclamp bolt (thread and length)
Merry Xmas
a.) I used 32mm bolts with my Hope calipers. Should be the same for SRAM.
b.) Saddle clamp bolt is an m6 x 55mm.
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Hi All,
Looking at this frame as well.
Reading the ride reviews I read people experience it as a stiff bike. However the weight seems so low to the point it even makes me wonder if it's too good to be true.
How come LT seems to pull of these kind of weights, while the ''reputable'' brands are often quite a bit heavier, even for similar silhouette frames. Especially the LT forks seem stupid light for such a tire clearance and Axle to crown length?
I'm not the lightest at around 77KG. And to counter that weight I need to put in some power to get actually moving up hills ;). Seeing a 330g fork weight makes me wonder how they get it as light as an Open Mind fork for example, which is one of the skinniest fork I've ever seen.
Looking at the size L. Can anyone with real world riding comment on the perceived flex from the fork/frame? Also under braking/descending etc? Any concerns on longevity/safety?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
It's really hard for someone to answer this question definitively without seeing their deflection data or the results of their testing, including a write-up on test protocol. In the small sample size here and in searches I have done, there are no reports of broken forks or frames. Further, while this fork is lighter than the OPEN R Turn fork, its not lighter than the Sworks Aethos and Aethos 2 forks and quite a bit heavier than the stated weight for the Bigrock team edition frame. Having owned and scoped the OPEN R Turn and U Turn forks vs. this one, those forks are messier on the inside. A huge part of that is that their designs are pretty old by now.
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a.) I used 32mm bolts with my Hope calipers. Should be the same for SRAM.
b.) Saddle clamp bolt is an m6 x 55mm.
I used he standard bolts that came with the DA calipers.
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Hi everyone,
With the news about possibly available XL sizes I'm now switching my focus from LCR018 to one of these instead...
Questions for those already in use;
- Obviously running wider tires gives a lot more comfort, but how is the frame geometry? I'm looking for a basic pot-hole road bike for 100km+ rides, not racing anything except my own PRs...
- I'm around 90kg, any worries for this frame?
Like many others, any input from current owners greatly appreciated!
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I'm going to order the frame now. Pearl white in glossy. Size L. Delivery time approx. 15 weeks.
Alisa also sent me an exploded view drawing.
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Yes, that's what I'm thinking about. The JH-35 handlebar weighs 320g (quite light, right?), no issues with the headset, no issues with the spacers, no issues with the seatpost clamp cover. It's not just about the price difference, but also, to be honest, this isn't the most interesting part of the build — searching for the better spacers and seatpost clamp covers bacause stock one is too bad. If these problems didn't exist, there would certainly be no doubt that the LTK266-D-SL looks like an excellent option then.
I don't understand the problem with the seat clamp cover. On mine it fits like a glove and looks nice. Maybe they changed it?
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I don't understand the problem with the seat clamp cover. On mine it fits like a glove and looks nice. Maybe they changed it?
Can you give us a picture on how it looks on your bike? I did not order the seatcover because of the things written about its bad fit/look.
My order is a atleast a month away so maybe not to late to change it if they have improved the quality.
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Received the frame today. Everything has made it over safely it seems.
Payment was made 09/12/2025, Alisa said they had a size Small frame in stock, unpainted. I chose for it to be painted transparent black glossy.
Paid USD $849 including PayPal fee, no customs to pay on delivery.
We spoke about the headset issues that other people had had, and she assured me that “that was a long time ago”, however I only received two bearings, a lower crown split ring for the fork (which I don’t think I need) and an expander plug. I’ve only ever built one other bike (Elves Falath Pro disc), and I’m assuming I’ll need to source a top C-ring to reduce the top bearings circumference, and that will make up the remaining stack height, as at the minute, both ends of the head tube have the bearings sitting below the tube, about a 3mm lip.
I bought the Tavelo Avro Gen-1 handlebars with ACR compatibility and those don’t come with the C-ring either.
The seat post clamp cover isn’t the best looking as it overhangs the seat tube and top tube junction.
All in all though everything else seems really good and clean. I’ll keep updating as I go.
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Can you give us a picture on how it looks on your bike? I did not order the seatcover because of the things written about its bad fit/look.
My order is a atleast a month away so maybe not to late to change it if they have improved the quality.
It looks the same as the pictures in the previous post. I think it looks OK like that :)
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We spoke about the headset issues that other people had had, and she assured me that “that was a long time ago”, however I only received two bearings, a lower crown split ring for the fork (which I don’t think I need) and an expander plug. I’ve only ever built one other bike (Elves Falath Pro disc), and I’m assuming I’ll need to source a top C-ring to reduce the top bearings circumference, and that will make up the remaining stack height, as at the minute, both ends of the head tube have the bearings sitting below the tube, about a 3mm lip.
I bought the Tavelo Avro Gen-1 handlebars with ACR compatibility and those don’t come with the C-ring either.
Most handlebars come with a C-ring, so you'll have to buy one off AliX.
I got it to fit like this:
- I used a 36x45° 8mm high bearing on the bottom. The gap is about a mm. So maybe 7mm high might be better, but it's OK like it is now.
- I went looking in my spare parts (I thought I ordered 2 bearings, but it turned out I only ordered one) and found a 45x45° 7mm high bearing for the top. With the C-ring that was included with my Avian handlebar it was too low. I had some more C-rings lying around from previous builds and the plastic C-ring that I got for my Hygge bike was about 1mm higher than the other, and with this C-ring it fits like a glove with a minimal gap between top cover and frame.
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Are there any seatpost alternatives that are worth looking at? Not sure if the shape is proprietary or not but think it's worth exploring other options!
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Most handlebars come with a C-ring, so you'll have to buy one off AliX.
I got it to fit like this:
- I used a 36x45° 8mm high bearing on the bottom. The gap is about a mm. So maybe 7mm high might be better, but it's OK like it is now.
- I went looking in my spare parts (I thought I ordered 2 bearings, but it turned out I only ordered one) and found a 45x45° 7mm high bearing for the top. With the C-ring that was included with my Avian handlebar it was too low. I had some more C-rings lying around from previous builds and the plastic C-ring that I got for my Hygge bike was about 1mm higher than the other, and with this C-ring it fits like a glove with a minimal gap between top cover and frame.
I bought the FSA 55R headset which I hope comes with the C ring. To be honest I could’ve just bought the C ring in itself as the Tavelo bars come with the headset cover for the integrated cables. I just bought the whole headset in case the bearings are better or have a different inner angle or height. It’s all a bit new to me dealing with different headsets and forks!
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Can someone who has installed Di2 tell me what used for the front derailleur output?
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Can someone who has installed Di2 tell me what used for the front derailleur output?
Didn't use Di2, but if you unbolt the FD mount, there is a hole, and the FD mount has a machined channel for the wiring. So it should end up really neat.
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Received the frame today. Everything has made it over safely it seems.
Payment was made 09/12/2025, Alisa said they had a size Small frame in stock, unpainted. I chose for it to be painted transparent black glossy.
Paid USD $849 including PayPal fee, no customs to pay on delivery.
We spoke about the headset issues that other people had had, and she assured me that “that was a long time ago”, however I only received two bearings, a lower crown split ring for the fork (which I don’t think I need) and an expander plug. I’ve only ever built one other bike (Elves Falath Pro disc), and I’m assuming I’ll need to source a top C-ring to reduce the top bearings circumference, and that will make up the remaining stack height, as at the minute, both ends of the head tube have the bearings sitting below the tube, about a 3mm lip.
I bought the Tavelo Avro Gen-1 handlebars with ACR compatibility and those don’t come with the C-ring either.
The seat post clamp cover isn’t the best looking as it overhangs the seat tube and top tube junction.
All in all though everything else seems really good and clean. I’ll keep updating as I go.
if you're using my setup as a guide, i advise you to bin all the bearings and rings alisha packed and get an FSA-55R head set. it will work with the ACR compatible spacers that tavelo (or panda podium or whoever) packed with the bars
EDIT: I'm an idiot, i see your later post. Yes the 55R set comes with a C ring. You're all set.
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What do you think, is the frame stable and comfortable enough to ride on lite gravel, endurance and forest paths with 35mm all-road tires?
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I received this frame about a month ago. Alisa is great at answering detailed questions. She seems very professional and was always helpful. I placed my order on the 17th of May and received it around the 13th or 14th of June.
I ordered size S, and as far as I can tell, the frame is almost perfect. There's a small gap that looks like a void or chip, but it’s nothing to worry about. It’s so small that I didn’t even notice it at first glance. Everything else looks great. The inside of the frame is ultra smooth. I need to clean the T47 threads because they look dirty — it seems like some stuff got in there. But again, that’s nothing unusual; you kind of expect to do some minor maintenance with OEM frames. For around $700–750, it’s hard to find a better frame, and if the T1000 + T1100 carbon info is true, then that’s an amazing deal.
As for the weight — my frame in size S, including both hangers, weighs around 730–740g. I’m happy with that.
I'll try to post some photos of the frame later. Here's how it looks, very minimalistic and I like Scott Addict RC 2025 paintjob so got inspired by that as a base. I will be adding some small details myself.
I read that you ordered size S and would like to know your height and inseam. Saddle height would also be nice to know 😄
Thanks and see you soon.
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w400)
You're making me regret my decision to go with the SC-R55D, that is a stunning build! Props to you
By the way, is that Glossy or Matte finish?
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
I'm considering a similar setup. What model is the Avian handlebar? Do I need to order an adapter from the manufacturer (Avian)? Do you know if it's possible to order the seatpost with setback?
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That looks incredible!
Would love to know what parts you bought and have gone with.
I have just had my Serenade 'Wavy' wheelset come in and planning to build up with standard Ultegra Di2 and Lightcarbon HBR17 bars.
The cranks and chainset look fab! Let us know how it rides
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
Incredibly stylish and so light 8)
Can't you tell us your parts list?
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Here is the parts list.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPU8kQ-jCtgXhTFt3r0UDpswlTuC5EwWl3lcIKYDp2-4vDHvT422L5zuyoDgnENp-i1clM_Pe_eaQ3DbtZphisWpNlk7i5hgCKIIwnJf8Kwxoa-HjGU=w1920-h1080)
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And some more pics:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOQd6YwEhv6nnfligpw-OLFpqXtso7MqkX0iPffVN8Ouhe9Sq38YkCCYi3WfI1Cd7DOlKRf-H3BizgjTZ9ICLMgPuhbMFH478jBjZXCUlZSMkDYZXCr=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczONr9hkBEeHwhwJv53XpXT8jW9DX2guLe45e-CVuo2hnw954Lgsp75zng0eBYvy4qhFComl2BdOk4xn4PgyQ0MaPiAWZKTjZtHoqqFe0vBkrHUx3m_y=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMRG2oYzL37kveCeyMRuFR2vl426e9BNFlHhEiYQfIBQF7oLJOARCfIfipG_cW7HcsFfsgFw1B1giv3241dMnldF1AO2SPu-LxWSlN79TwLKtnPs_UO=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNybeDnwcUSQNCukkzGu7u8HDvJNwEdwOaKlPtPPAjC-jG55DKYW6p5Mq984zyuaTTyq2_LRmRgBJNjspD3xpPJdzwZtCjOwj4GTjlamazhKwQm6zQJ=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczONwgtd4DhpXkfTXrY528Lwep7M-LsC1tTzMi4CAv7rbM3q30-2rQFcxKfUbcRZEDuzKMRnPr2a9LTJ8Uzb_ysoPz0d_1XxkL9XTPTKkvpPoTgX83Mu=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOXhbMwlM9mOHxg9H6p7VK_r5HiRC-7tKOQE5bLTBkvt7plueAkXB1gGgKEz2a_qJlpumnU6eTmvhxU6QIJDeDQe_SiEN1gh7FIrtEPBolH_jFRUnks=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPIhjKoMoI_YIVAiE3u71PhQS007fh9JQUsqP_ig32hNENIqPzysWJeCA8xFczzNK30vzNVg5Jno-hEEMkE9KZb2TiYDspXWi6nmcv749AGhfQDKUWY=w1500-h1080)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMY8K08Zg3DKyDCZHkaLbHkQ556jnUpIHQJjZfnku0RO-eZZGxmY7kG8QQxeWRzI8vZChqjgdq34Al0xTdmHwQ7NcWPM7QfjlzBr5MnQeWianuWHU1b=w1500-h1080)
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Here is the parts list.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPU8kQ-jCtgXhTFt3r0UDpswlTuC5EwWl3lcIKYDp2-4vDHvT422L5zuyoDgnENp-i1clM_Pe_eaQ3DbtZphisWpNlk7i5hgCKIIwnJf8Kwxoa-HjGU=w1920-h1080)
Question using the P505. I thought it was only compatible with Magene crankset? How did that work for you?
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Question using the P505. I thought it was only compatible with Magene crankset? How did that work for you?
The p505 is also sold as PM alone. There is a 3 bolt version.
The PM that is sold with the cranks will only fit those cranks.
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I'm considering a similar setup. What model is the Avian handlebar? Do I need to order an adapter from the manufacturer (Avian)? Do you know if it's possible to order the seatpost with setback?
It's the Avian Falcon. I got it off AliX, but it was 305gr instead of the 280gr they list...
So maybe they sell rejects or something...
You do not need an adapter, the spacers are included and fit the frame.
Ofcourse it also included a nice top cap, but I will install that after I have dialed in my fit
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
Nice looking bike. Would you mind sharing frame size and seat height ?
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Nice looking bike. Would you mind sharing frame size and seat height ?
Thank you, It's a small and the saddle is at 72-73cm
I am 172 cm with 82 inseam
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
Nice build!
If you arent a heavy rider, one really simple way to shed a few grams is going Ti for the saddle clamp bolt. Its just an M6x55.
Mind if I add this one to the first post?
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Nice build!
If you arent a heavy rider, one really simple way to shed a few grams is going Ti for the saddle clamp bolt. Its just an M6x55.
Mind if I add this one to the first post?
No, go ahead.
Thanks for the tip
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
Looks superb.
Can't wait to get my Permeants branded ST-09 built up, just waiting on Zeno's new hydraulic couplers to arrive as fancied giving them a go on this build. They should come any day now so will hopefully have it all built by early February.
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Will report on the Niu Ju clamp next week as I am about to receive it, but hardware looks the same and screw is the same length. You can ask Alisa for a 7x9 saddle clamp just in case.
Thru axles are:
M12xP1.0 168.5mm, measured by me: 18mm thread length
M12xP1.5 116mm, measured by me: 10mm thread length
Couldn’t find similar lightweight thru axles… let me know if you find some
Hello,
I am considering the following thru axles for the frame:
Front:
Extralite BlackLock 12.5 A
Length 116 mm
Thread length 12.5 mm (+2.5 mm)
Pitch M12x1.5
Rear:
Extralite BlackLock 12.4
Length 168 (-0.5 mm)
Thread length 17 mm (- 1 mm)
Pitch M12x1
The front one is the same length but has more thread.
The rear one is 0.5 mm too short and has one mm less thread. Do you think that's a problem?
Unfortunately, I can't find any others. Or do you have any other good suggestions?
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Ordered a size M, will update as I build it.
Build is planned with HBR17 lightcarbon handlebar, AERORAPTOR Tagoola 50/60mm wheelset and 105 di2.
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What are people’s opinions regarding clamping the seatpost lower than the grippy surface that it comes finished with? I haven’t properly ridden the bike yet but just deriving measurements from other bikes I’m worried I’ll have to lower it past the grip tape on the leading edge of the seat post. I’m running size small and reckon I’ve got shorter than average legs :D
Also is everyone tightening the clamp to the printed torque on the clamp?
What about the saddle clamp?
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Alisa sent me a photo of the axles and I'm wondering why they design an ultra-light frame and then sell lead axles with it 🤮
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Hi!
Inspecting the frame, I feel some sharp edges on the chainstays. Is this finish normal in that area?
And there are also some loose fibers around the head tube. Has anyone else noticed this?
Thanks!
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Sorry if a stupid question but will I need a headset press to install the fsa no55r?
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No, it is not necessary
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Inspecting the frame, I feel some sharp edges on the chainstays. Is this finish normal in that area?
And there are also some loose fibers around the head tube. Has anyone else noticed this?
Thanks!
Could you post some pictures? Is it the paint? What finish did you get?
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We are in! Started putting together but will probs take about a week to fit in time.
Overall the frame looks very well put together and super sturdy.
I got the unpainted matte. There is a bit of untidiness around BB and disc brake surfaces but should be relatively easy to tidy.
Have gone with the Serenade 4550 Wavy wheelset and Lightcarbon HBR17 bars.
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Quick question for those who have finished building this.
Did LT include a grommet for this di2 hole here?? Not quite sure what to do
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Quick question for those who have finished building this.
Did LT include a grommet for this di2 hole here?? Not quite sure what to do
I believe that's the mechanical shifting hole. If you take off the FD hanger there's another opening and the FD hanger has a little cut out for the wire to pass through. There is however no cover for the mechanical shifting hole. I was planning on just 3d printing a little plug eventually.
I just received my frame. Paid Jan 13 and it arrived in Canada Jan 30th. Incredibly fast. I guess they had a size small in stock and I just went with the transparent green paint.
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I just used a glob of black sugru to cover mine. It's a standard practice for me on bike frames. It will comes out fairly cleanly if you want to pick it out later.
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Hi all,
I've been ordering components to be prepared when my frame (XL) is delivered.
I did just recieve my wheelset and got a bit of a surprise, i orderd a wheelset 45x35 i28 thinking of going allroad tires/wheels.
There were no profile pictures of the rim and when i measure these fatboys are bulging at the waist to a 38mm witdh.
On paper its still a nice wheelset 1377gr wo rimtape for ca $400 shipped and taxed, but will it fit?
Those of you who have the frame, do you think they will fit or do i need to search for slimmer alternatives?
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Finally got it built.
Deviated from my original plan of a fully integrated cockpit to separate bar stem.
This has been built with a relaxed fit in mind for some 200-400km audax events I have signed up for this year.
Permeants ST-09 Size Large
Green tinted clear coat
SRAM Red 12 speed brifters
SRAM Red E1 cranks
SRAM Force XPLR Derailleur
SRAM Rival Cassette
Csixx 48t chainring
Galfer 160mm rotors
Chaser brake mount adapters
Onirii Pedals
FSA 69
Bigrock Blade handlebar 38cm
Zeno V2 hydraulic couplers
Serenade 60mm deep carbon spoke wheels
Specialized Mondo 35mm tyres
Weight: 7.16kg
Upcoming changes:
Adding computer mount
Swapping pedals to my faveros.
Likely chop 10-15mm off the steerer.
British weather is not doing this paint any justice it's stunning when the light hits it just right.
Test ride around the block is all I have done so far so reserving review until the weather plays ball and I can get some miles on it.
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For those who have used HBR17 handlebar, how did you mount them ? I ordered with the FSA adapter but it's missing the notch to fit into the FSA ACR 55 top cover.
Is the adaptater wrong, or am I missing something ? Or should I use the lightcarbon top cover ?
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I used the Lightcarbon top cover.
I wasn't sure what that weird Lightcarbon piece that looks a bit like a spacer was for (maybe a top cover for aero frames?)
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For those who have used HBR17 handlebar, how did you mount them ? I ordered with the FSA adapter but it's missing the notch to fit into the FSA ACR 55 top cover.
Is the adaptater wrong, or am I missing something ? Or should I use the lightcarbon top cover ?
I think you just need to use the topcover that comes with the bars.
Similarly, the FSA-supplied topcover didn't work with my tavelo bars--tavelo/panda had supplied their own top cover that worked with the other parts that make up the FSA ACR 55 headset.
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Received the frame today. It looks great.
Started building it but was wondering if I need an adapter to run 160mm rear brake rotor. I've mounted my 105 rear caliper as is and when I try to install the wheel the rotor goes too far into the caliper.
But I saw in the discussion that Alisa said it's native 160/160
I havent seen this mentioned yet so I wanted to provide this info:
According to Alisa, both the front and rear flat mounts are designed to work with 160mm brake rotors.
I had thought that perhaps being lightweight the frame would be set up for 140mm, and I would need to buy adapters (the Force E1 groupset bundle comes with 160mm rotors).
If others have built up the bike to the point of mounting calipers and can confirm, that would be great, too.
If I need an adapter, is it this one https://www.bike24.fr/produits/139811 ?
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Mine is set up with a 140mm rear. I think 160mm might have been their design target or smth, but it's a regular flatmount geometry which does require an adapter for a 160mm rotor.
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HI!
Can anyone who has bought the FSA ACR 55 headset confirm if it came with the compression ring (FSA H2474)? I bought it and it arrived without it...
Thanks
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Ive bought a few and they always come with a compression ring. Some of them have a different one, H2630A. But there should be one in there.
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Ive bought a few and they always come with a compression ring. Some of them have a different one, H2630A. But there should be one in there.
Thanks you @sakizashi.
I'll talk with Bike24 about it.
There are some loose carbon fibers visible on the head tube. It seems to be just the last layer. What do you think?
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both are looking great! the black transparanent is the first time its really transparaent :)
what kind of saddle and cockpit are you running?
I’ve finally taken my SL266 out for its first outdoor rides, and it’s honestly the best bike I own! Fast, comfortable, and a total blast to ride. :) ;D 8)
Last year, I spent most of my time on a steel frame with modern road geometry(in total 17tkm), and I’m impressed that the SL266 easily keeps up in terms of comfort! Up until now, I mostly used it on the trainer to dial in my position since it’s winter here in Germany. The only thing I’ll likely change is the cockpit length. I’m currently running the stock 100mm/80mm reach combo, but I think 120/80mm would be ideal. I’ll see how it goes after a few more miles.
I’ve also 3D-printed a few parts for the LTK cockpit if anyone is interested: adapters for FSA spacers and headsets, direct headset covers, and a 7/8/9-degree wedge for the Wahoo/Garmin mount. Without the wedge, the mount pointed upwards at an awkward angle; in my opinion, it needs to be flush with the stem to look right. Now it looks perfect! I’ll try to post some pictures later.
I’ll take some proper photos of the bike once the weather clears up. By the way, the current weight is 7.4 kg with a full Ultegra group, a standard wheelset (1450g, 45mm depth), 30/32mm GP5000 AS TR tires, and Favero power meter pedals. Next i will try my deeper wheelset with lighter tires and look whats changing
I'd be interested in the files for the LTK Bars! I sent you a PM but I think they're pretty easy to miss. Also which bearing did you end up installing low or high stack?
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First ride done. Was coming from an entry level aluminium gravel frame with the same wheelset and I didn't think there would have been such a big difference.
Road vibrations are almost gone at same tire pressure, the reactivity of the frame is amazing. As soon as I press on the pedal the bike goes whereas on my previous bike there was a slight delay.
Building was quite straightforward. Just had to redo the routing 4 time because my dumbass was routing cable the wrong way. And it took me 4 times to get right 🥲. BB went in no issue, could thread all the way by hand, brake mount seems flat (at least no rubbing).
The only negative I'd find is that there is no rubber thingy shipped with the frame for where the cable enters/exit the frame. So water could get in from the rear di2 cable and also from the front derailler mechanical port.
Bike weight 7.28kg with computer mount, pedals, bottle cages and 32mm GP 5000 AS TR. So with summer tires (Pirelli p zero race tlr rs in 28) bike should be sub 7kg.
PS: please ignore my awful bar taping job. Hardest part of the build 😭
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Thanks you @sakizashi.
I'll talk with Bike24 about it.
There are some loose carbon fibers visible on the head tube. It seems to be just the last layer. What do you think?
I am not a carbon expert, but personally that wouldn't worry me, particularly if those fibers are not loose just visible in terms of surface finish
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Received the frame today. It looks great.
Started building it but was wondering if I need an adapter to run 160mm rear brake rotor. I've mounted my 105 rear caliper as is and when I try to install the wheel the rotor goes too far into the caliper.
But I saw in the discussion that Alisa said it's native 160/160
If I need an adapter, is it this one https://www.bike24.fr/produits/139811 ?
I know you already have the bike set up (looks awesome btw...I wish the weather weren't so awful here so I could ride mine) but for everyone else:
I have mine set up with 160/160 just because that's what came in the SRAM full package, and it works great.
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I know you already have the bike set up (looks awesome btw...I wish the weather weren't so awful here so I could ride mine) but for everyone else:
I have mine set up with 160/160 just because that's what came in the SRAM full package, and it works great.
Thank you !
Weather is not that great here too, but was too impatient so went out in the rain 😆
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Finished today! Waiting for rain to clear to take it for first spin.
Went 160 160 as well but had to buy an adapter.
If anyone has any questions happy to help.
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Finished today! Waiting for rain to clear to take it for first spin.
Went 160 160 as well but had to buy an adapter.
If anyone has any questions happy to help.
What are these things you have in place of bottle cage holders?
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Finished today! Waiting for rain to clear to take it for first spin.
Went 160 160 as well but had to buy an adapter.
If anyone has any questions happy to help.
Can you tell me about the headset on your build? What c ring did you use with the bearings and headset ?
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Can you tell me about the headset on your build? What c ring did you use with the bearings and headset ?
I used the FSA no55 ACR as helpfully recommended on this thread.
For the C-Ring I had to use the one that came with the Lightcarbon HBR17 bars that I bought as the FSA one didn't have the required notches
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What are these things you have in place of bottle cage holders?
Those are fidlock magnetic bottle mounts.
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRKBDY3nCPCUNk-f-uBh21DyFrWWA8uukF2W8PE2W5yKgPOpJAJPgKboPZodq9pvmg6z792y-nZGNAdcbWLsKvUX2rLJBcwu-CIXmb8DpU7M3NxLsmdsIZThQ)
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I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.
I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.
I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.
I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.
I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
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https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/b-rad-system/products/b-rad-bottle-relocation-and-accessory-device/
I used one of these to be able to fit a larger bottle on a commencal meta sx, worked great.
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Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
Just search ali for "bottle mount adapter".
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I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.
I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.
I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.
I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.
I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
I mean that is almost certainly an issue with your BB rather than the frame itself? Hope it didn't ruin your enjoyment of the trip!
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I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.
I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.
I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.
I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.
I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
This sounds like a crank preload problem. Potentially caused by the BB not being installed tightly enough. As you ride the bike, the BB should tighten, this would cause the preload to decrease, allowing the spindle to move laterally. That squeak is potentially the sound of it moving under load.
You don't need to pull the crank to fix this, but I would to grease or preferably apply anti-seize to the BB. Installing them dry seems like a good way to encounter galling later on. Make sure to torque it down tight, too. I don't use a torque wrench on my BBs (I prefer the open-style wrenches to sockets), but the spec is usually 35-50 Nm. You should aim for the lower end if you are using grease or anti-seize.
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I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.
I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.
I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.
I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.
I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
Might be just a need of cleaning, lubing and mounting to correct torque of ThruAxles. In 80% of the time it is the problem, even if you think, it would be BB or hub,... And it is the easiest to check and fix
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I am very happy with my bike, but it has developed a creak when pedalling.
I rode it for a week with no problems in the UK where I live and then took it to Tenerife for 6 days of riding. First day it was okay but on the second when I stood on the pedals it started making a creaking/click sound with each pedal stroke. I’m running Shimano 105 Di2 with a ZTTO T47i bottom bracket which I installed with the supplied tool with no grease or retaining compound on the threads. Crank spindle is greased and preloaded, as well as the pedals. I checked the chainring bolts and left crank arm bolts and those are torqued up.
Later at the hotel I managed to recreate the noise by pushing either side of the bike near the BB area with my hands. The noise usually only occurs once the opposite side has been pushed I.e. pushing twice doesn’t make noise twice, only when the frame is pushed from the other side again.
I carefully inspected the frame for cracks around the BB, chainstays, down tube, reinstalled the handlebars and both bottle cages and the noise persists. The frame looks pristine on the outside. I am running a transparent black glossy finish.
I continued riding it through the holiday and took it up some very steep climbs (eg tierra del trigo with 25% ramps) and nothing bad happened and no noise happens when not pedalling. I am a light rider at 57kg and not much power output, but the noise sometimes also happens when pedalling at 150W.
I will try and reassemble the bottom bracket but if someone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
Also, since I’m riding a small frame, the seat tube bottle cage bolts are too high, which makes it impossible to take a 750ml bottle. Are there any solutions to lower the bottle cage mounts?
Check if the rear derailleur hanger is till tight. This has caused creaking on my bikes a couple of times...
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Hey guys,
I’m about to order the frameset as well. My plan was to order the frameset and the recommended FSA headset.
Going through this thread was really helpful. Anyway, just have a few questions left where your help would be great:
- I saw that the thru axles are pretty heavy as posted on this thread. Any good lightweight other options out there that you could recommend?
- I would like to use one of these handlebars that are all over Ali (having them on my Hygge and pretty happy with them) (eg KOCEVLO X01 https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzQYMug (https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzQYMug)) —> Does anyone know if they match the FSA Headset or if I need an adapter?
Thanks for your help!
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Are there any seatpost options with setback available?
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Are there any seatpost options with setback available?
There were not at launch, but I would just email Alisa at LTK to find out/use their contact form.
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Is anyone from Germany planning to order a frameset from LTK in the near future? I’m looking to get a second seatpost, but shipping alone is $30–40 for a $45 part. I've already been in touch with Alisa about it. The textured grip area on my current post is a bit too low for my saddle height.
I'd love to bundle a spare with someone else's order to save on shipping. Let me know if we can work something out!
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Is anyone from Germany planning to order a frameset from LTK in the near future? I’m looking to get a second seatpost, but shipping alone is $30–40 for a $45 part. I've already been in touch with Alisa about it. The textured grip area on my current post is a bit too low for my saddle height.
I'd love to bundle a spare with someone else's order to save on shipping. Let me know if we can work something out!
Have you tried some cellophane/Saran wrap at the mating surfaces? Id also ask if it's safe to sand the post on the area you need grip on.
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Yeah, there is some grip tape available, and I don't think my current setup is unsafe. According to Alisa, LTK actually paints that textured area, which explains why the height can vary a bit between batches. My saddle height is only about 5–10mm above the texture, so the clamp still has enough purchase. My main concern is that my sister also uses the bike occasionally.
She sits about 3.5cm lower than I do (I know, the frame is technically too big for her!), and I wanted a second seatpost so she doesn't damage the current one by clamping it on the smooth carbon. For now, I've used some electrical tape and plenty of carbon paste on the clamping surface.
Regardless, I’d love to have a spare seatpost. It makes it much easier to test new saddles without losing my original position, and I usually like to have backups for all my bikes anyway—I just forgot to add one to the initial order! But honestly, $40 for shipping a single seatpost is a bit steep. If anyone in Germany is ordering soon, let me know
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Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?
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Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?
The headset alisa gave me had a too short compression ring, or the wrong bearings. I ended up swapping them for a different set of bearings, with a smaller chamfer so they sit higher.
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Has anyone had trouble getting the headset tight? Should I have used the crown race?
Yes, I am having trouble as well. I am using the two bearings that were delivered with the frame etc., along with the C-ring that came with my handlebar. I still have a bit of play.
I think my compression plug might be sitting slightly too high, so I will cut the steerer tube a bit shorter and see if that fixes the issue. If not, I will get the FSA No.55R, which is recommended here in the sub by several people. It is just annoying that I have to reroute everything through the handlebars again, but yeah, what can you do.
You do not need to use the crown race that came with the headset, I think it is unnecessary.
Otherwise, have a look at this post to identify the issue
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3781.msg38021.html#msg38021
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If I remember correctly. The headset supplied by LTK is a low-cost generic headset used by a number of low-priced Chinese frames, as it offers a couple of different C-Ring fitment options.
Given that this frame has an 8.7mm bore depth, you can fit your choice of FSA, Deda, Cane Creek, etc., upper bearings, as long as you use the correct 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing; you should use those. It will minimize the need to replace the headset bearings in the future, and the track record for these generic headsets is really bad in terms of fit and preload retention. I personally recommend the FSA No55R LS, but I am happy to assist if I can. Some parts come with C Rings and covers, and it can be more cost-effective if you ask around first.
For example, if you are buying Deda Superbox V2 stem, it comes with a C Ring and headset cover, so all you need are the correct bearings: 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 45/45-degree upper bearing and a 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing.
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If I remember correctly. The headset supplied by LTK is a low-cost generic headset used by a number of low-priced Chinese frames, as it offers a couple of different C-Ring fitment options.
Given that this frame has an 8.7mm bore depth, you can fit your choice of FSA, Deda, Cane Creek, etc., upper bearings, as long as you use the correct 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing; you should use those. It will minimize the need to replace the headset bearings in the future, and the track record for these generic headsets is really bad in terms of fit and preload retention. I personally recommend the FSA No55R LS, but I am happy to assist if I can. Some parts come with C Rings and covers, and it can be more cost-effective if you ask around first.
For example, if you are buying Deda Superbox V2 stem, it comes with a C Ring and headset cover, so all you need are the correct bearings: 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 45/45-degree upper bearing and a 52mm (or 51.8mm) x 40mm x 8m 36/45-degree lower bearing.
FSA ACR No.55R
Would this one work? It says upper: 52mm x 42mm x 7mm 45/45 and lower: 52mm x 40mm x 8mm 36/45
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/fsa-acr-no.55r-1-1/8-1.5-is52/28-6-is52/40-steuersatz-fuer-integrierte-kabelfuehrung
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FSA ACR No.55R
Would this one work? It says upper: 52mm x 42mm x 7mm 45/45 and lower: 52mm x 40mm x 8mm 36/45
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/fsa-acr-no.55r-1-1/8-1.5-is52/28-6-is52/40-steuersatz-fuer-integrierte-kabelfuehrung
I am using this headset on my bike. Works perfectly.
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Yes. That one will work great.
To do the build from that you will want to use:
- Upper bearing (the one with the 42mm ID)
- Lower bearing (the 40mm ID)
- C Ring (part marked H2630a)
Additionally if your handlebars are ACR compatible or if you are going to use an adapter you want to use the headset cover. You need to use a compression plug, but with this frame you do not need to use the one supplied by FSA if you prefer a different design. The round silver split ring is a part you do not need to use.
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This sounds like a crank preload problem. Potentially caused by the BB not being installed tightly enough. As you ride the bike, the BB should tighten, this would cause the preload to decrease, allowing the spindle to move laterally. That squeak is potentially the sound of it moving under load.
You don't need to pull the crank to fix this, but I would to grease or preferably apply anti-seize to the BB. Installing them dry seems like a good way to encounter galling later on. Make sure to torque it down tight, too. I don't use a torque wrench on my BBs (I prefer the open-style wrenches to sockets), but the spec is usually 35-50 Nm. You should aim for the lower end if you are using grease or anti-seize.
I’ve only just had the chance to ride the bike again, but the issue seems to be gone now!
I followed your advice re greasing the BB threads. The ZTTO tool didn’t make it easy to remove the BB (but it came included with it - free!) and I reinstalled the crank making sure not to skimp on the preload adjuster tightness. It’s still hand tight and I’ll monitor for noise in the following rides. Thanks for the tip!
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Well, I've finally been able to take the bike for a spin.
It's the Permeants 09, painted transparent red. I found it quite fast, but I'm coming from a steel frame. The riding position is comfortable, not too racing-oriented.
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Any one been in contact with LongTeng/Alisa recently?
I placed an order for an XL frame mid December and got info to expect production in 2.5months.
It's now 3 months since i placed the order so i mailed Alicia begining of this week to check status of my order but i havent recived any reponse.
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Any one been in contact with LongTeng/Alicia recently?
I placed an order for an XL frame mid December and got info to expect production in 2.5months.
It's now 3 months since i placed the order so i mailed Alicia begining of this week to check status of my order but i havent recived any reponse.
I just received shipment notification and a tracking number from Alisa on 3/16 for my size S. Just landed in Louisville today.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to drop some thoughts now that I’ve put 1,000km on the frame.
First of all I want to say I'm really enjoying the bike. Coming from an alu gravel bike it feels super fast ! Climbing is much more easier, I feel like I can hold 35kph easy on a flat road whereas before it felt like I always had to push, now with this bike it feels like it's holding the speed much more.
Bike is also very comfortable, did a little weekend trip with it and even after 140k I felt good.
Only downside I found is that the paint is quite thin, the top tube bag rubbed a little on the top tube and there is some scratch marks.
As far as mechanicals, the frame has been super reliable, no seatpost slippage, no disc rub, no weird creaking or anything. Just had an issue with the crankset but not related to the frame.
Would 100% recommand the frame to anyone, as a first time builder, assembling process was easy, and there is no troubleshooting to do even after set up as it just works.
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@alexgaignard, @Halfshark, @MARIOVL i hope its ok that I added your frames to the 1st post Gallery. Let me know if you want me to remove them.
We are starting to get a nice mix of finishes and configurations that show what we can build with this frame. It really is an interesting platform for some great builds. Very biasedly, though it takes some work to order and get a headset separately, etc, I think this is still the best mix of features for an all-rounder at its price point, as you get a frame only marginally heavier than the lightest out there, that rides and handles well for $800-$950 (USD) delivered. Plus, it has UDH and cyclocross-level tire clearance! Hard to beat IMO.
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Hello,
I’ll be receiving my frame in the next couple of days. Could you please confirm that this bottom bracket fits:
https://c-bear.com/products/bottom-bracket/threaded-bottom-bracket/t47-internal-shimano/
I’ll be using a Shimano Ultegra crankset.
Thank you very much.
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Thank you!
What's the VB-R-168? I think it's Velobuild?
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Okay, thank. I'm new to T47 so i don't know if i should get inward or outward bearing. Kind of confusing....
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It's 47 internal.
But I agree. It makes no sense to put a 170€ BB in this frame...
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Another option is this variant from Rotor but it was quite tricky to fit as the internal tube bit is flexible and was challenging to get in place with internal cables. But that is probably down to my lack of experience!
Lightweight and not too expensive. https://rotorbike.com/en-uk/rotor-t4724-internal-bb.html (https://rotorbike.com/en-uk/rotor-t4724-internal-bb.html)
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Got the message today that my frameset is on it's way.
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The frameset arrived a few days ago.
The packaging was good, and there are no scratches or anything like that.
The bottom bracket was easy to install; the threads were fine.
The caliper mounts are smooth.
In the bottom bracket area, the frame has a few sharp carbon edges on the inside, but nothing serious.
I’m still waiting for a longer cockpit and the right/final bottom bracket.
I’ll post a few updates on the assembly. I’m satisfied. Overall, great quality.
For the headset, I’m using an FSA 36x45 on the bottom and a DEDA 45x45 on top. I’m not using the ring on the bottom one. The fork has its own, right? However, the bearing doesn’t quite fit. I’ll have to take another look and then post some photos.
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Is there alternative seatpost that can fit the frame?
Maybe I'm just unlucky but even for 27.2mm seatposts I had some creaking ones that the noise comes from the contacts between the clamps and the head.
Just want to be sure if the stock one creaks I can still get some replacements.
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Is there alternative seatpost that can fit the frame?
Maybe I'm just unlucky but even for 27.2mm seatposts I had some creaking ones that the noise comes from the contacts between the clamps and the head.
Just want to be sure if the stock one creaks I can still get some replacements.
Have you tried really lathering on a good bit of carbon paste? That solved it for me.
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Hello all,
I want to start off by saying this frame has been a blast. I've enjoyed it much more than my LTK 268.
I've recently run into an issue with the saddle clamp. I was on a ride and hit a bump, and my saddle nose shot straight up. The clamp has been tightened to the labeled 12Nm with carbon paste and I'm still able to move the saddle with my hands (With some force applied).
I'm using the clamp provided by Long Teng, but I have a Ritchey WCS-1 clamp on order. TIA.
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Have you tried really lathering on a good bit of carbon paste? That solved it for me.
Not sure if it should be carbon paste, especially I have some alloy 27.2 seatposts, aka, metal head on metal seatpost body contacts, and some of them still creak.
The silent ones (no matter metal or carbon) have nothing special, just torqued to the specified torqued, without any special grease/paste/whatever.
That's why I'm asking for alternative seatposts, some are just not well designed, and I don't want to risk a full frameset just to be annoyed by a creaking seatpost.
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Hello all,
I want to start off by saying this frame has been a blast. I've enjoyed it much more than my LTK 268.
I've recently run into an issue with the saddle clamp. I was on a ride and hit a bump, and my saddle nose shot straight up. The clamp has been tightened to the labeled 12Nm with carbon paste and I'm still able to move the saddle with my hands (With some force applied).
I'm using the clamp provided by Long Teng, but I have a Ritchey WCS-1 clamp on order. TIA.
I wouldn't put carbon paste near threads, particularly if it's the grit kind. I would disassemble, regrease the bolt, and then reassemble.
One mode of failure for these kinds of clamps is if the clamp's hardware (idk the ears?) is touching the cradle, preventing proper torque. Sometimes this is because of using the wrong size hardware (7x9mm on a 7x7mm saddle). Other times it's just an installation error. Let me know how it goes, happy to help troubleshoot.
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I wouldn't put carbon paste near threads, particularly if it's the grit kind. I would disassemble, regrease the bolt, and then reassemble.
One mode of failure for these kinds of clamps is if the clamp's hardware (idk the ears?) is touching the cradle, preventing proper torque. Sometimes this is because of using the wrong size hardware (7x9mm on a 7x7mm saddle). Other times it's just an installation error. Let me know how it goes, happy to help troubleshoot.
Hey! Thank you for the reply. I should have clarified a bit better -- the carbon paste was applied to the "ears" (the part that grips down on the seatpost). Also, I'm using a 7x7 saddle with the correct clamp hardware (not the oval set provided by Long Teng). I'll make sure the "ears" aren't touching the cradle and that everything is making proper contact.
Do you know if the Ritchey clamp's "ears" have a larger clamping radius?
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The frameset arrived a few days ago.
The packaging was good, and there are no scratches or anything like that.
The bottom bracket was easy to install; the threads were fine.
The caliper mounts are smooth.
In the bottom bracket area, the frame has a few sharp carbon edges on the inside, but nothing serious.
I’m still waiting for a longer cockpit and the right/final bottom bracket.
I’ll post a few updates on the assembly. I’m satisfied. Overall, great quality.
For the headset, I’m using an FSA 36x45 on the bottom and a DEDA 45x45 on top. I’m not using the ring on the bottom one. The fork has its own, right? However, the bearing doesn’t quite fit. I’ll have to take another look and then post some photos.
Hello! What is the frot disc brake´s size? Is it posibble to use 140 in front?
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Hi, it's a 160mm. I think a 140mm is possible by swapping the adapter upside down.
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Got my frame today everything looks good will post some photos once i get some more parts and build it up. I am going to be using a bar which uses and FSA integrated headset.
Just looking at buying the headset now and it seems there are two different looking ones where the cover seems to be different.
Should i go for the one which looks like it is two pieces or the one which is a single piece?
Thanks
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Got my frame today everything looks good will post some photos once i get some more parts and build it up. I am going to be using a bar which uses and FSA integrated headset.
Just looking at buying the headset now and it seems there are two different looking ones where the cover seems to be different.
Should i go for the one which looks like it is two pieces or the one which is a single piece?
Thanks
They are more or less functionally identical.
The second one, showing two pieces, is the newer "Low Stack" LS headset so it comes with a spacer to make up the extra stack and be the same as the original (first one). It also comes with an updated C-Ring. The bearing is a bit of a weird new size with a larger ID, so if you want to get a ceramic or solid-oil bearing, it might be harder to find. That said, the included stainless bearings are nice, and the ID means the bends are less tight. Being an FSA product, it's widely distributed, so getting spare bearings is easy.
I would get the second one.
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Hello everyone,
I finished my build. I am really happy with the bike and can’t wait to take it for a proper spin. The weight is 6.9 kg with pedals, bottle cage holders, sensors, Garmin mount, etc.
I will probably slam the stem in a few months.
I am still looking for some lightweight budget thru-axles, so if anyone has a recommendation, let me know.
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They are more or less functionally identical.
The second one, showing two pieces, is the newer "Low Stack" LS headset so it comes with a spacer to make up the extra stack and be the same as the original (first one). It also comes with an updated C-Ring. The bearing is a bit of a weird new size with a larger ID, so if you want to get a ceramic or solid-oil bearing, it might be harder to find. That said, the included stainless bearings are nice, and the ID means the bends are less tight. Being an FSA product, it's widely distributed, so getting spare bearings is easy.
I would get the second one.
Great description. Clarifying info worth adding to the first page where we recommend the ACR setup?
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Has anybody ordered this in an XXL? Is that size available now? And if yes, how‘s the stiffness particularly in the rear triangle and the headtube area?
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Headset arrived and also HBR17 handlebars this morning so had to see what they looked like together.
All i am waiting on is the groupset to arrive.
Cant wait until i get London Marathon done so i can ride it.
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Has anybody ordered this in an XXL? Is that size available now? And if yes, how‘s the stiffness particularly in the rear triangle and the headtube area?
I've orderd an XXL mid december with estimated production in 2.5months, it's delayed (Claimed to be caused by CNY, and testing took longer than expected).
After a bit of nagging i got an update from LongTeng/Alisa where they estimated that it should be ready for shipping this week.
/Håkan
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Can you use two upper and lower 40mm ID bearings as stated in your earlier post? Or do you need a 42mm upper and a 40mm lower?
Planning on the super box v2 for context. Trying to find the bearings on their own.
Cheers
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Iv'e orderd an XXL mid december with estimated production in 2.5months, it's delayed (Claimed to be caused by CNY, and testing took longer than expected).
After a bit of nagging i got an update from LongTeng/Alisa where they estimated that it should be ready for shipping this week.
/Håkan
You and me are going to be the test mules then. Alisa confirmed to me that they have a few XXLs in stock now and that they would be ready to ship. I'm ordering one to build up a lightweight climbing bike. I'm no good at climbing at over 80kg but it's still the kind of riding that I like the most. :)
I am slightly concerned whether or not this frame will be stiff enough. I guess we shall find out.
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Can you use two upper and lower 40mm ID bearings as stated in your earlier post? Or do you need a 42mm upper and a 40mm lower?
Planning on the super box v2 for context. Trying to find the bearings on their own.
Cheers
For the Superbox V2 you want a 40x52x8 45/45 for the upper bearing and 40x52x8 36/45 for the lower. OD can be 51.8 or 51.9 too.
The stem should come with a headset cover and a C ring. Use those and you should be set.
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You and me are going to be the test mules then. Alisa confirmed to me that they have a few XXLs in stock now and that they would be ready to ship. I'm ordering one to build up a lightweight climbing bike. I'm no good at climbing at over 80kg but it's still the kind of riding that I like the most. :)
I am slightly concerned whether or not this frame will be stiff enough. I guess we shall find out.
Hi, I'm Rex from Longtengbike. I'm the new Online Sales Manager, and I'm always happy to answer any questions you may have. The XXL size is now in stock.
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Hi, I'm Rex from Longtengbike. I'm the new Online Sales Manager, and I'm always happy to answer any questions you may have. The XXL size is now in stock.
Hi Rex,
Similar to the posts above I have an XXL in production. How far off shipping are these?
Appreciate the communication!
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While most people here are looking for bigger frame, I am looking for XS or even XXS frame, are there any comparable lightweight frame?
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By the way: I haven’t seen it referenced here before. The weight limit for this frameset is „about 100kg“ according to Alisa.
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Hi Rex,
Similar to the posts above I have an XXL in production. How far off shipping are these?
Appreciate the communication!
Currently, Lisa should be tracking your order; I am not familiar with the specific details, so you had best consult her to obtain an accurate timeframe. If it were my order, it would take approximately 7 to 10 days to ship from China.
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Hello everyone,
I’m considering getting a lightweight road bike for Alpine marathon events. I’m currently torn between the Winspace SLC 3.0 and the LTK266-D-SL (my current favorite).
Are there any long-term experiences with the LTK266, especially with a rider weight of around 80–85 kg?
Many thanks in advance and best regards,
Andy
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Hello everyone,
I’m considering getting a lightweight road bike for Alpine marathon events. I’m currently torn between the Winspace SLC 3.0 and the LTK266-D-SL (my current favorite).
Are there any long-term experiences with the LTK266, especially with a rider weight of around 80–85 kg?
Many thanks in advance and best regards,
Andy
70kg and 1100km. Absolutely no problems to report...
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Hello everyone,
I’m considering getting a lightweight road bike for Alpine marathon events. I’m currently torn between the Winspace SLC 3.0 and the LTK266-D-SL (my current favorite).
Are there any long-term experiences with the LTK266, especially with a rider weight of around 80–85 kg?
Many thanks in advance and best regards,
Andy
74 kg, 1700km. Right as rain.
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I know we're not weight weenies, but is this frame the lightest frame so far on this forum? (excluding all Panda Podium ones). I want to see the final weight of your builds.
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I know we're not weight weenies, but is this frame the lightest frame so far on this forum? (excluding all Panda Podium ones). I want to see the final weight of your builds.
My build (size 56, SRAM Force E1, 9velo 50mm wheels with steel spokes (1320g), tavelo bars 38/130, dont remember the weight) with assioma pedals on is 7.1kg. But i have 35mm Michelin Pro5 tires mounted that each weigh 400g, each with like 60ml of sealant (from topping up more and not cleaning them out, wouldnt normally run that much).
So if i had 30mm gp5k with 30ml sealant it would be right around UCI weight limit with pedals and mounts.
Put on some carbon spoked ultra light wheels and its easily below 6.5kg, before any further weight weenie shenanigans.
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ll right, thank you. I was aware that both of you are using SRAM, but surely there must be some people who have built their bikes with Di2. Naturally, I asked Alisa first, but after waiting almost three days for a response, the answer I received was: “We do not provide this with this frame.”
That was quite a disappointment.
At first, I wanted to purchase a mount, but unfortunately I ordered the wrong one(27,2mm size instead 31) and therefore couldn’t determine whether a standard mount would work. I have now had one 3D-printed, which fits perfectly.
If anyone is interested, I can share the STL file.
I also believe that my rubber seatpost cover looks excellent—possibly even better than the original one, don’t you think?
I'm waiting the frame. Could you share the STL file so I can print the Di2 battery holder?
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I'm waiting the frame. Could you share the STL file so I can print the Di2 battery holder?
Sign me up on the interest list also :)
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I've orderd an XXL mid december with estimated production in 2.5months, it's delayed (Claimed to be caused by CNY, and testing took longer than expected).
After a bit of nagging i got an update from LongTeng/Alisa where they estimated that it should be ready for shipping this week.
/Håkan
Alisa were in contact with me for a final check on shipping adress, my frameset were handed over to the shipping agent on April-21.
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Hello Rex, are there any options for a seatpost with setback? This is the only reason that prevents me from ordering one. Thank you!
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I asked Alisa when ordering my frame and there was no setback options for the seatpost
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I know we're not weight weenies, but is this frame the lightest frame so far on this forum? (excluding all Panda Podium ones). I want to see the final weight of your builds.
Mine is a size M with an 1140g wheelset, T4 Ultra handlebars, LEESE cranks, ZTTO lightweight cassette, Ultegra, XT pedals, Ryet saddle, and 30/32 gp5ks with TPU tubes. Comes out at 6.7 kg.
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Has anyone got a gap between the fork and the bottom of the headtube?
Mine got a 2mm gap, and I tried several different bearings (the original 8mm, 7mm, even 6.5mm), none of them can shrink the gap even for 1mm.
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Yes i have a similar size gap.
Just finished my build took it out for a 37km spin this morning feels great big upgrade from my 2016 Cervelo R2.
I fitted it with 105 di2 whole build comes up to around a tad under 6.9kg.
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Yes i have a similar size gap.
Just finished my build took it out for a 37km spin this morning feels great big upgrade from my 2016 Cervelo R2.
I fitted it with 105 di2 whole build comes up to around a tad under 6.9kg.
BTW how did you handle the FD wire exit? Some kind of rubber grommet?
I failed to find any 5mm round grommet.
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BTW how did you handle the FD wire exit? Some kind of rubber grommet?
I failed to find any 5mm round grommet.
Same i couldn't find one and its super annoying one isnt shipped. I just used some black electric tape as its what i had at hand.
I plan on buying some black tac if the electric tape fails but this bike will be mainly used in dry weather.
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I know we're not weight weenies, but is this frame the lightest frame so far on this forum? (excluding all Panda Podium ones). I want to see the final weight of your builds.
Hello
Size small. Sram Force e1 with Red crankset. Light Carbon HBR 17 80/380 with tape. XM Carbon Speed 50mm wheels. 32 GP5000 with tpu tubes. Assioma Duo gen 1 pedals. S-Works power saddle. Computer mount. Zefal bottle cages. 6.76 Kg. I ordered the frame with no paint or clearcoat and it was 680g exactly. I am really enjoying this bike. It is about the same weight as the Wilier Zero 7 it is replacing but feels so much nicer with a more modern layup and the larger tires.
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And LTK really loves to give me some surprise.
Just see the picture, there is no hole on the FD hanger, so no way to install an FD.
I'm pretty sure it's just a wrong part sent to me, and I don't even need to bother LTK for a replacement, as the FD from bigrock seems to fit perfectly.
But still, Chinese OEMs are always giving me all kinds of surprise, sometimes good, sometimes not so good.
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And LTK really loves to give me some surprise.
Just see the picture, there is no hole on the FD hanger, so no way to install an FD.
I'm pretty sure it's just a wrong part sent to me, and I don't even need to bother LTK for a replacement, as the FD from bigrock seems to fit perfectly.
But still, Chinese OEMs are always giving me all kinds of surprise, sometimes good, sometimes not so good.
Wow. This is bad. I think their supplier just didnt make the hole for the FD mount. The FD mount should also have a channel that allows you do run the Di2 wire through a hole in the frame behind the mount so its neater.
I dont know why the frame doesnt come with a plug for the mechanical routing hole near the BB, but thats not supposed to be used for a Di2 wire. I just used some black Sugru on that hole as ive found that stuff is easy to remove if needed but also functions well as a plug
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Wow. This is bad. I think their supplier just didnt make the hole for the FD mount. The FD mount should also have a channel that allows you do run the Di2 wire through a hole in the frame behind the mount so its neater.
I dont know why the frame doesnt come with a plug for the mechanical routing hole near the BB, but thats not supposed to be used for a Di2 wire. I just used some black Sugru on that hole as ive found that stuff is easy to remove if needed but also functions well as a plug
To be honest, no matter if it's ICAN/LTK/Mondince/whatever, they do not provide any customization on the frameset itself, like filling the unused mechanical cable exit with carbon cloth, or adding the missing Di2 wire exit.
They just ask the customer to workaround the problem, not even want to accept the extra fee just to modify the frame a little.
Furthermore, the weight is not that exceptional, considering there are already Chinese branded framesets that are around the same weight (<700g before paint), and still no more expensive than this unbranded frameset:
- KONTAX SUPROSS PRO
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=966701314171
Which is 5000RMB before shipping, slightly higher than my price from LTK.
But with the lowest claim about the weight before paint, 652g, and the price already includes painting.
(other colors are available with the same price)
- VOOK V8
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=911720925706
Which is 4000 RMB before shipping, much cheaper than LTK.
The problem is the headset, the upper bearing is not the common 52mm one, but 49mm one.
Finally, I do not buy the T1000/T1100/T1200 or whatever cloth they are claiming. Because it's not only BS, but also shows how unoptimized the layout is.
I also weighted several frames I owned, and all of them are weighted including the trimmed fork/seatpost, metal parts like axles/bearing/headset cover seatpost collar, and a stem (pro plt).
The full weight of LTK266-D-SL (headset cover is from TOKEN, size S) is 1600g, the same level as Bigrock (non-team version, size XS).
And my previous CRF51 frame (size XS) is 1650g, and the OEM is claiming it's just an upgrade from T700 to T800, no T1000 or higher.
Not to mention the OEM of CRG51 is doing a pretty good job customizing the frame, by removing/filling the unnecessary cable entrance/exit, providing a real Di2 only frameset, and with all the extra fee for cutomization, it's still cheaper than the VOOK V8 frameset.
Considering a lot of Chinese frame/wheel sellers are charging more and more for no obvious benefit, I'm going to be more and more cautious about their claims, and stick to frames with more interchangeable parts (e.g. 27.2 seatpost, 52mm headset bearing with 8.7mm bore depth, UDH, proper Di2 FD exit).
Unfortunately this frame is not the one I'm expecting.
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To be honest, no matter if it's ICAN/LTK/Mondince/whatever, they do not provide any customization on the frameset itself, like filling the unused mechanical cable exit with carbon cloth, or adding the missing Di2 wire exit.
They just ask the customer to workaround the problem, not even want to accept the extra fee just to modify the frame a little.
Furthermore, the weight is not that exceptional, considering there are already Chinese branded framesets that are around the same weight (<700g before paint), and still no more expensive than this unbranded frameset:
- KONTAX SUPROSS PRO
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=966701314171
Which is 5000RMB before shipping, slightly higher than my price from LTK.
But with the lowest claim about the weight before paint, 652g, and the price already includes painting.
(other colors are available with the same price)
- VOOK V8
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=911720925706
Which is 4000 RMB before shipping, much cheaper than LTK.
The problem is the headset, the upper bearing is not the common 52mm one, but 49mm one.
Finally, I do not buy the T1000/T1100/T1200 or whatever cloth they are claiming. Because it's not only BS, but also shows how unoptimized the layout is.
I also weighted several frames I owned, and all of them are weighted including the trimmed fork/seatpost, metal parts like axles/bearing/headset cover seatpost collar, and a stem (pro plt).
The full weight of LTK266-D-SL (headset cover is from TOKEN, size S) is 1600g, the same level as Bigrock (non-team version, size XS).
And my previous CRF51 frame (size XS) is 1650g, and the OEM is claiming it's just an upgrade from T700 to T800, no T1000 or higher.
Not to mention the OEM of CRG51 is doing a pretty good job customizing the frame, by removing/filling the unnecessary cable entrance/exit, providing a real Di2 only frameset, and with all the extra fee for cutomization, it's still cheaper than the VOOK V8 frameset.
Considering a lot of Chinese frame/wheel sellers are charging more and more for no obvious benefit, I'm going to be more and more cautious about their claims, and stick to frames with more interchangeable parts (e.g. 27.2 seatpost, 52mm headset bearing with 8.7mm bore depth, UDH, proper Di2 FD exit).
Unfortunately this frame is not the one I'm expecting.
Why is the tone of this so aggressive? I was just trying to help — and suggest you ask for and get the right FD mount rather than using the Bigrock one.
First, neither the Vook nor the Kontax bike was launched when this thread was created. It should be no surprise that the tech of an open mold gets lapped in terms of weight. Afterall the Elilee Blize XXE had been out for a couple of years before this frame launched as had the Aethos, etc so it wasnt like there is groundbreaking tech here. Second, the exception with this bike is still the combination of its weight and tire clearance.
That Kontax looks really nice if you don't want the tire clearance. It's worth noting that the cost of making changes to the mold is pretty high. Even if it's just a different insert or part of the mold, it's several hundred dollars and if its larger sections it could be a lot more.
Are you suggesting that I edit the contents to the first post? Is there information that you would like to see reflected that is missing?
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Why is the tone of this so aggressive? I was just trying to help — and suggest you ask for and get the right FD mount rather than using the Bigrock one.
Sorry my rant it's not against you, but against a lot of (if not all) Chinese OEM frame sellers, which are doing crazy claims on the carbon cloth, and maybe even the tire clearance.
In fact I appreciate a lot of info in your first post.
First, neither the Vook nor the Kontax bike was launched when this thread was created. It should be no surprise that the tech of an open mold gets lapped in terms of weight. Afterall the Elilee Blize XXE had been out for a couple of years before this frame launched as had the Aethos, etc so it wasnt like there is groundbreaking tech here. Second, the exception with this bike is still the combination of its weight and tire clearance.
Yes, there are similar weighted frames, although not sure if it's before this frame or not, e.g. the bigrock one.
The bigrock's price is definitely higher than this, but if one can buy directly from the OEM (e.g. the microck branded one seems to be from the OEM), it's cheaper and very similar to this price wise.
Then it comes to another possible lie, tire clearance. I'm not saying the 35mm claim is true or false, because I do not have a tire that measures 35mm. (The CX/gravel one measures only 33mm).
But my current road tires measure exactly 32mm, and there is still plenty space on my older frames that only claim 32mm clearance, including the bigrock frame and CRF51.
So I'm not sure if the 35mm claim is just another T1100 claim or what.
That Kontax looks really nice if you don't want the tire clearance. It's worth noting that the cost of making changes to the mold is pretty high. Even if it's just a different insert or part of the mold, it's several hundred dollars and if its larger sections it could be a lot more.
Only if the cable entrance/exit is molded. Some frames leaves a hole for the cable entrance/exit, and later add putty/cloth/resin to form the needed shape. Some details are not that easy to all be done by mold.
Not sure if the FD exit is really molded in just one go.
For the only frame that the OEM provides customization, it's definitely not molded.
And even for molded cable exit, it's still possible to fill it using putty before paint.
That will be less ideal, but I'd say still better than nothing.
The most ideal FD situation would be dedicated Di2 wire exit, then a minimal drilled 1.5~2mm hole just for the shift cable. If no mechanical shifting is needed, just don't drill the hole.
That's what my Y22 TCR adv frame is doing, but unfortunately that means there must be a cable guide under BB, and nowadays with fully integrated cable routing, it's less and less common, especially among Chinese OEMs.
To be honest, I do not understand why Chinese OEMs are putting so much effort on mechanical shifting support.
It's going to be a mess with fully integrated cable routing anyway, and there are already cheap electric shifting alternatives.
Are you suggesting that I edit the contents to the first post? Is there information that you would like to see reflected that is missing?
The only info I guess others may be interesting is the FD exit situation (5mm round, no grommet provided nor easy to find), and maybe the gap between the fork and headtube (2mm, definitely larger than a lot of frames).
And a final rant, again not against you, but the whole Chinese frame OEMs.
I have definitely spent too much money on Chinese frames, enough money to directly buy a good frame from big brands, e.g. Specialized Aethos or the recent Chapter2 RIRA.
But I have not yet find a Chinese OEM paying any attention to details or accessories, they all focus on weight, carbon cloth grade, exotic aero shapes.
My requirement for a good frame is not that weird (I have already dropped the external hose routine requirement):
- Traditional tube shape
Either round or rounded box, non-aero.
- Good Di2 support
Either provide Di2 grommets to reuse the mechanical FD exit, or dedicated Di2 wire exit and a way to fill the mechanical exit.
If the seatpost is not round, provide the battery mount.
- Common headset bearing for better headset cover selection
I hate fully integrated cable routing, a semi integrated headset cover is a must.
Considering most after market 52mm bearing/headset requires 8.7mm bore depth, so that should be the target.
- Clearance for 32mm measured tire width
- Weight <850g painted
The bigrock frame doesn't meet the headset (8.3mm bore depth) and Di2 support (FD exit).
The LTK one doesn't meet the Di2 requirement (FD exit again), and had a larger-than-normal gap between fork and headset.
I also have a Chapter2 TOA frame, which doesn't tick the headset (require specially shaped headset cover) nor the Di2 support (non-round seatpost without battery mount).
My Giant TCR adv pro frameset Y2022 is not meeting the weight (everything included 2kg, 400g over all the Chinese ones) nor the tire clearance (28mm), but I have to give it a mention.
Giant has the best grommet/plug situation for all possible shifting systems, Di2 wire/wireless, eTap, mechanical, with proper Di2 battery mount. That's definitely something all those Chinese OEMs should learn from.
It was my dream frame, until the BB started to creak...
So far only the cheapest Chinese frame ticks all the boxes, with an extra external cable routing box ticked:
- CRF51 with OEM modification
Unfortunately I didn't weight the frame, and didn't believe the weight claim (750g), and wrongly thought the weight is definitely over 850g.
There are minor problems like the axles/seatpost lock collar is working but not the best quality.
But that can be easily resolved as those can easily find replacements.
It got some damage caused by dropped chains before I installed a chain catcher. but overall still pretty good and strong.
If I can not find a good grommet for the FD exit (alternative plugs on the way), I may switch back to the old frame, or just buy a new CRF51.
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Got it. No problem I just misread and the frustration with cheap chinese frames is real. The attention to detail on these open molds is lacking in large part because factories like LTK expect someone else to do the finishing.
Then it comes to another possible lie, tire clearance. I'm not saying the 35mm claim is true or false, because I do not have a tire that measures 35mm. (The CX/gravel one measures only 33mm).
But my current road tires measure exactly 32mm, and there is still plenty space on my older frames that only claim 32mm clearance, including the bigrock frame and CRF51.
So I'm not sure if the 35mm claim is just another T1100 claim or what.
If you haven't been able to test or measure, please stop throwing around speculation like this. There is literal documentation in this thread of the tire clearance. I personally have fit an 8mm allen key all the way around a 33mm tire (as measured), and currently have 35mm small knob gravel tires (36mm as measured), and can easily fit a 6mm allen key all the way around.
The pics of the 33mm are in this post: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6158.msg87963.html#msg87963
The tire clearance here is easily good enough to be labeled 35mm, and I think a lot of brands, including some discussed on this forum, would say this frame clears 40mm tires, as it could fit 40mm measured tires with 4mm to spare, which meets ISO4210 labeling requirements for "race" bikes. This is a very generous 35mm clearance bike, but not quite good enough to meet the 6mm clearance standard for 38mm.
If I can not find a good grommet for the FD exit (alternative plugs on the way), I may switch back to the old frame, or just buy a new CRF51.
Use some black Sugru or another moldable silicone glue, then move on. Takes like 30 seconds to put some on and can be removed pretty easily with a pick and is much cheaper than trying to source a fitting grommet. I also added this as a con on the front post to ensure future buyers are warned of this drawback.
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If you haven't been able to test or measure, please stop throwing around misinformation. There is literal documentation in this thread of the tire clearance. I personally have fit an 8mm allen key all the way around a 33mm tire (as measured), and currently have 35mm small knob gravel tires (36mm as measured), and can easily fit a 6mm allen key all the way around.
The pics of the 33mm are in this post: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6158.msg87963.html#msg87963
The tire clearance here is easily good enough to be labeled 35mm, and I think a lot of brands, including some discussed on this forum, would say this frame clears 40mm tires, as it could fit 40mm measured tires with 4mm to spare, which meets ISO4210 labeling requirements for "race" bikes. This is a very generous 35mm clearance bike, but not quite good enough to meet the 6mm clearance standard for 38mm.
Or let me change the tune, it's not LTK claiming false 35mm clearance, but other older Chinese frames claiming lower clearance.
Just installed the same wheelset on bigrock (32mm claimed), 5mm hex key can pass the tyre and chainstay (barely), 16.4mm between the seat tube and tyre.
On CRF51 (30mm claimed), 5mm hex key can pass (barely), 16mm between seattube and tyre, almost the same as bigrock.
Furthermore, on TCR ADV pro MY22, claimed 28mm clearance, the 32mm tyre also fit, to my surprise, but indeed with almost no headroom.
Can only barely pass a 3mm hex key, with 8.1mm room between tyre and seat tube.
Yes, the LTK ones can pass a 6mm key easily (but not pass 8mm here though), 16.6mm between seat tube and tyre.
If that's 35mm clearance, then I'd call bigrock and CRF51 32mm or 33mm clearance.
With that said, the 35mm is not that a huge advantage compared to older 32mm/30mm clearance frames.
But if one really wants to fit 35mm tyre, it's definitely more spacious than those older frames, but may not be that hugely different.
Use some black Sugru or another moldable silicone glue, then move on. Takes like 30 seconds to put some on and can be removed pretty easily with a pick and is much cheaper than trying to source a fitting grommet.
Not sure if it would survive bi-week wash. But at least thanks for the advice.
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To be honest, no matter if it's ICAN/LTK/Mondince/whatever, they do not provide any customization on the frameset itself, like filling the unused mechanical cable exit with carbon cloth, or adding the missing Di2 wire exit.
They just ask the customer to workaround the problem, not even want to accept the extra fee just to modify the frame a little.
Furthermore, the weight is not that exceptional, considering there are already Chinese branded framesets that are around the same weight (<700g before paint), and still no more expensive than this unbranded frameset:
- KONTAX SUPROSS PRO
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=966701314171
Which is 5000RMB before shipping, slightly higher than my price from LTK.
But with the lowest claim about the weight before paint, 652g, and the price already includes painting.
(other colors are available with the same price)
- VOOK V8
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=911720925706
Which is 4000 RMB before shipping, much cheaper than LTK.
The problem is the headset, the upper bearing is not the common 52mm one, but 49mm one.
Finally, I do not buy the T1000/T1100/T1200 or whatever cloth they are claiming. Because it's not only BS, but also shows how unoptimized the layout is.
I also weighted several frames I owned, and all of them are weighted including the trimmed fork/seatpost, metal parts like axles/bearing/headset cover seatpost collar, and a stem (pro plt).
The full weight of LTK266-D-SL (headset cover is from TOKEN, size S) is 1600g, the same level as Bigrock (non-team version, size XS).
And my previous CRF51 frame (size XS) is 1650g, and the OEM is claiming it's just an upgrade from T700 to T800, no T1000 or higher.
Not to mention the OEM of CRG51 is doing a pretty good job customizing the frame, by removing/filling the unnecessary cable entrance/exit, providing a real Di2 only frameset, and with all the extra fee for cutomization, it's still cheaper than the VOOK V8 frameset.
Considering a lot of Chinese frame/wheel sellers are charging more and more for no obvious benefit, I'm going to be more and more cautious about their claims, and stick to frames with more interchangeable parts (e.g. 27.2 seatpost, 52mm headset bearing with 8.7mm bore depth, UDH, proper Di2 FD exit).
Unfortunately this frame is not the one I'm expecting.
Has anyone ridden the Kontax? Cause there are zero reviews/posts about the bike being built/how it rides.
Vook V8 is interesting because there you have a lightweight bike with more of an endurance geometry (new Aethos before the new Aethos) + an aero handlebar.
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Has anyone ridden a Tarmac SL8 and an LTK266-D-SL and can give some feedback on how the LTK "feels" compared to an SL8? So far the frame ticks almost all boxes (except aero) for me.
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And a final rant, again not against you, but the whole Chinese frame OEMs.
I have definitely spent too much money on Chinese frames, enough money to directly buy a good frame from big brands, e.g. Specialized Aethos or the recent Chapter2 RIRA.
exactly my sentiment, i hesitated to spend money so far and after reading all the problems people have its not worth it. Here in Europe I can get a brand new Cube Nuroad Frame for 900 Euro. On local classifieds people often sell barely ridden big manufacturer bikes/frames for not much more.
Same with wheels current trend 50 depp 24 steel spokes or even fewer carbon ones. Reported lack of lateral stiffness (check out Rides of Japans latest vid on the Zen Carbon crap) and horribly noisy hubs. They all offer the same.
I tried to order a 28 spokes asym wheelset from Deerobust and Carbonbikekits with Bitex 312 Hubs. They wont offer it or they charge a premium. LB is really overpriced and what people dont seem to understand with the Airia Wheels - achieving this light a rim using T700 and T800 the sidewalls have to be paper thin or the amount of resin has to be reduced.
So for the same price (or even cheaper compared to LB) I can get a brand new Reserve Wheelset cause there are plenty of folks who buy a Cervelo and swap the wheels.
Chinese OEM is moving in a wrong direction imho and I would rather spent a little more money for a much better product.
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A couple of quick thoughts. Yes, 35mm vs. 32mm clearance is like 1-1.5mm difference per side. It’s not that much, but it can make a huge difference if you actually intend to run a 32mm tire on a large IW rim or a 35mm knobby tire. I recognize I might be the only one who has done both, but it was a criteria for me. This was one of the only options, Chinese or not that could clear a 35mm tire with 6mm all the way around and had a race bike’s geo. The Cervelo and Factors options couldnt do that at the time.
Regarding Chinese companies OEMs pumping out replicas or products that are too flexy / not fit for actual use by people who want to go fast on bikes; the irony is that y’all are complaining on a thread about one OEM products that is an original design that was allegedly benchmarked to deflection numbers of the Giant TCR. Yes, this frame has its warts, the OEM part spec is poor, and the rubber bits are total crap or missing; but it builds into a really nice, light, versatile bike if the geo is right for you.
This is not an CFR51/ Aethos copy. It’s not a replica. Its also probably not as nice as a Quick Pro, but thats OK.
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A couple of quick thoughts. Yes, 35mm vs. 32mm clearance is like 1-1.5mm difference per side. It’s not that much, but it can make a huge difference if you actually intend to run a 32mm tire on a large IW rim or a 35mm knobby tire. I recognize I might be the only one who has done both, but it was a criteria for me. This was one of the only options, Chinese or not that could clear a 35mm tire with 6mm all the way around and had a race bike’s geo. The Cervelo and Factors options couldnt do that at the time.
Regarding Chinese companies OEMs pumping out replicas or products that are too flexy / not fit for actual use by people who want to go fast on bikes; the irony is that y’all are complaining on a thread about one OEM products that is an original design that was allegedly benchmarked to deflection numbers of the Giant TCR. Yes, this frame has its warts, the OEM part spec is poor, and the rubber bits are total crap or missing; but it builds into a really nice, light, versatile bike if the geo is right for you.
why are people coming into this thread to dump on Chinese OEMs in general?
Other than needing to buy and use an FSA headset vs. what Alisa sent, I for one had no problems building this bike up, and I had never built a bike before.
Now 2,000 km in, I've raced the bike up a hillclimb TT, descended at 70kph, done multiple fast group rides, gravel rides, group rides through downpours -- at all the paces. It is great for what it is.
It's not an SL8 or an Aethos; its not a Scott Addict RC Pro. Getting any of those bikes built up with the same componentry would have been double the price.
And I'll be putting 35mm knobbies (or maybe those new Conti Terras or G-One RS Pros...open to advice) on it this summer for dirt/fire roads out West.
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All of you ordered about the Homepage of Long teng and the inquiriy Button?
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Chinese OEM is moving in a wrong direction imho and I would rather spent a little more money for a much better product.
All good - just do what you want ;-)
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exactly my sentiment, i hesitated to spend money so far and after reading all the problems people have its not worth it. Here in Europe I can get a brand new Cube Nuroad Frame for 900 Euro.
Funny seeing this on a long teng thread, given they OEM for Cube...
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Can anyone help me out? I'm looking for a "guide for dummies"! ☺️ Who can I contact—and where—to propose my own custom paint schemes? What is the final cost of the frameset? And can anyone tell me exactly which cockpit (with a budget of up to €300) I should order as a replacement for the stock one? What do I need to keep in mind regarding this? Apologies if all this information is already covered in the previous 35 pages; if so, please feel free to just send me a link to the relevant section. Thanks a million, everyone! PS: There’s no real advantage to ordering via Permeants, is there?
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(https://i.imgur.com/zcTHKRK.jpeg)
Excuse my poor picture with ugly bottles, ugly temporary light setup, and chimney stack, but I've gotten a couple hundred KMs in on my LTK-266 now.
Build details:
Size S, transparent green paint
DFS 45mm wheels 25/32mm profile
11 speed dura ace di2
DFS carbon CT1 cranks
Stone chainrings 50/34
Chaser rotors
Boutique bike store(??) 360mm aliexpress handlebars
Uno kalloy stem
Adapter spacer from AProto bikes (ty @Sakizashi)
FSA ACR LS headset
LFZ pedals
Goldix 3d printed saddle
Vittoria Corsa pro 32 tires
Ordering from LTK with Alisa was very speedy and smooth, same with Angler for the DFS parts. Frame is almost perfect and was very easy to build up. Only issue I had was the rear mounts were not evenly faced so I had to add some tinfoil shims. But I guess it could also have been the brake adapter. Other than that the frame is perfect, paint looks great, all the weights were as advertised. Extremely light with not that expensive parts, bathroom scale has it around 6.4kg with pedals. Riding has been a big upgrade over my previous bike, a velobuild 099. Definitely stiffer, especially the fork, but with the 32c tires it is very comfortable to ride. Headset and cockpit were a breeze to setup with the di2 and adapter spacer. I was in a rush to get it built for a charity ride so I still need to trim the fork steerer and decide on a stem length. I ordered 3 different stem sizes since swapping them out is so easy with non internal routing.
Overall super happy with it. Insane value, total cost was a bit over 4k cad. Admittedly I got crazy deal on the used groupset from a dentist, but I would've spent the same for 105di2 and just been a few hundred grams heavier. The DFS wheels are very impressive too, 946g for the set.
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Funny seeing this on a long teng thread, given they OEM for Cube...
Isnt Mondince OEM for Cube?
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Isnt Mondince OEM for Cube?
I believe Mondince is a weird brand of Long Teng's.
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I believe Mondince is a weird brand of Long Teng's.
Communicating with Mondince as I've ordered a FM336 that I'll hold in my hands next Monday, I don't think it's very unlikely they've anything to do with LongTeng. Mondince isn't longtime on the B2C market.
Plus, Cube is so big they'll work with way more than just one OEM manufacturer.
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(https://i.imgur.com/zcTHKRK.jpeg)
Excuse my poor picture with ugly bottles, ugly temporary light setup, and chimney stack, but I've gotten a couple hundred KMs in on my LTK-266 now.
Build details:
Size S, transparent green paint
DFS 45mm wheels 25/32mm profile
11 speed dura ace di2
DFS carbon CT1 cranks
Stone chainrings 50/34
Chaser rotors
Boutique bike store(??) 360mm aliexpress handlebars
Uno kalloy stem
Adapter spacer from AProto bikes (ty @Sakizashi)
FSA ACR LS headset
LFZ pedals
Goldix 3d printed saddle
Vittoria Corsa pro 32 tires
Ordering from LTK with Alisa was very speedy and smooth, same with Angler for the DFS parts. Frame is almost perfect and was very easy to build up. Only issue I had was the rear mounts were not evenly faced so I had to add some tinfoil shims. But I guess it could also have been the brake adapter. Other than that the frame is perfect, paint looks great, all the weights were as advertised. Extremely light with not that expensive parts, bathroom scale has it around 6.4kg with pedals. Riding has been a big upgrade over my previous bike, a velobuild 099. Definitely stiffer, especially the fork, but with the 32c tires it is very comfortable to ride. Headset and cockpit were a breeze to setup with the di2 and adapter spacer. I was in a rush to get it built for a charity ride so I still need to trim the fork steerer and decide on a stem length. I ordered 3 different stem sizes since swapping them out is so easy with non internal routing.
Overall super happy with it. Insane value, total cost was a bit over 4k cad. Admittedly I got crazy deal on the used groupset from a dentist, but I would've spent the same for 105di2 and just been a few hundred grams heavier. The DFS wheels are very impressive too, 946g for the set.
Any chance you could link or upload the image in a different way? Cant view in the UK and would be really interested to see how the cockpit /headset all look with the kalloy stem. Thanks
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Transition from Spacer to stem looks a little bit weird? But Just my 2 Cents.
Anyway: i text via WhatsApp with Long Teng, to customize a the frame. What i have to Order due to Headset? Should i told them something specific? And Where i can buy later from Another company spacer, c-ringe, Headset, One Piece Cockpit, etc., that it fits to the frame/fork? And Where to Order Another thru axles? Budget for Headset, Handlebar and Axles Round about 400-500€.
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Transition from Spacer to stem looks a little bit weird? But Just my 2 Cents.
Anyway: i text via WhatsApp with Long Teng, to customize a the frame. What i have to Order due to Headset? Should i told them something specific? And Where i can buy later from Another company spacer, c-ringe, Headset, One Piece Cockpit, etc., that it fits to the frame/fork? And Where to Order Another thru axles? Budget for Headset, Handlebar and Axles Round about 400-500€.
FSA no55r (either standard or low stack version) headset or no69 (external cables). I used no69 as I have Zeno hydraulic couplers and this was easiest for me.
People agree not to use Long Teng headset. It's cheap and some say not good.
A good option for one piece handlebar (in my experience) but not on this bike is the Bigrock Skyline it has good size availability, cheap enough with codes on AliExpress, and is FSA ACR compatible. You might want to look at the Speeder and Light Carbon options as they are cheap enough and FSA compatible I think from what I have read.
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Hi everyone,
I recently finished my build and everything went smoothly, except for one issue I can't seem to solve.
For the bottom bracket, I used a ZTTO model T47-24l:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJVt8y2
The bike feels great during normal riding, but as soon as I put more power through the pedals (starting at around 300W, the bearing feels "rough" or "unround." It’s hard to describe, but it definitely doesn't feel smooth under load.
So far, I have tried:
Taking everything apart.
Re-cleaning, greasing and tightening.
Unfortunately, the problem persists. Now I’m wondering:
Did I pick the wrong BB model for this frame?
Is this a known quality issue with ZTTO bottom brackets?
Can anyone recommend a alternative BB that fits the frame?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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All of you ordered about the Homepage of Long teng and the inquiriy Button?
I’m going to buy this frame soon, but when I asked Rex via the whatsapp listed on longtengbike.com it was a lot more expensive than when I messaged Alisa via ltbikes.com. 900$ via Rex, 620$ via Alisa. Also you can buy the frame via Tideace & Permeants, but they are also more expensive.
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Any chance you could link or upload the image in a different way? Cant view in the UK and would be really interested to see how the cockpit /headset all look with the kalloy stem. Thanks
Attached to this post, took some more close ups as well for you. Let me know if you want any others. Tbh I was planning on replacing this setup with a fully integrated, but this has been working great, looks great, and was inexpensive so I probably won't bother.
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And here we go. Sub 6,2 kg as shown:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNigeawSUxLAjwk_Iii0OS3IRHApZTJm7nXUujtz1LRNA_xBlzfrxGxNzpzgoKo6KT1z6f-dYTu_PHYs0Q_eIBCvj5Eu_fPS0KhsC1IIxVzRt4ZU7SQ=w1920-h1080)
@TidyDinosaure
What's you experience with the Goldix R180 Ultra hubs?
I can read a lot that they're pretty problematic, weight limited to 75kg, and ratched is prone to fail.
Please post here or in the Goldix R180 Ultra thread.
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I went through this entire thread and I think I will be picking up this frame. I ride mostly gravel but would like a road bike for long long road rides, this frame ticks many boxes. I intend to use this as more of a endurance ride and not a slammed racer.
Going with size a L after comparing the numbers on with what i currently ride ( i measure 5.10 feet )
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/rodeo-labs-flaanimal-5-0-2020-56-cm,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l/ for anyone interested.
I was hoping to have anyone could chime in on M vs L sizing since i am kind of between.
Other take aways from reading:
1. Ditch the included headset and get a FSA N.55
2. Sugru for the holes
3. T47 85.5 internal
4. aprotobike for a seat post cover
5. possibly having to brake posts ?
6. as of 5/2026 I am expecting to cost 850-950 usd shipped
Anything else I should be aware of for a painless build?
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Have the Same questions. Want to have my Custom Paintjob.
But what to do with Cockpit, Spacern and Headset.
What ist this for a Cockpit? Can i Slam IT so that there is No Spacern/fork to see above the stem?
Order at LTK: should i mention something because of Headset & Co?
Can give me somebody please a link list of parts i need to buy a light and beautiful Cockpit. And a link for the dustcover of the Seattube from giant tcr?
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I mean this!
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I mean this!
That is the Avian Canary or Falcon handlebar.
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What stuff i need to order for a Clean Cockpit with the ltk 266?
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What stuff i need to order for a Clean Cockpit with the ltk 266?
One option is FSA no55r headset with Bigrock Skyline handlebar with FSA ACR adapter spacer. I do this setup on my LTK268D. It would work on the LTK266DSL.
You should be able to use any one piece handlebar with the FSA no55r headset, as long as the handlebar is compatible with FSA ACR spacers. Many companies supply adapter spacers for FSA ACR and their handlebar systems.
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Thanks a lot! You have a Picture of your Cockpit? You are Happy with the bigrock? It's stiff?
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Thanks a lot! You have a Picture of your Cockpit? You are Happy with the bigrock? It's stiff?
Yes I am happy with it. Plenty stiff for me as someone who weighs around 84kg.
There are plenty of reviews and pictures on AliExpress.
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Ah i mean a Foto by your Bike with the fork and handlebar. :)
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if you feel compelled to do a 1-peice, i think purely from an aesthetics standpoint @klddd's build with the Tavelo Avro Gen 1 bar is the cleanest looking.
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I think the avian Canary is very beautiful. What about the Rider weight Limit of 100kg? Is this only for Rider or Rider + Bike + etc.? The other Option is the avian falcon. They texted me, that i only need a FSA nr.55 Headset and nothing else. Their Spacers fits to the frameset/headtube.
Is this the right Headset:
https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO55R-1-1-8-zu-15-ACR-3-mm-mit-Expander-matt-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gbraid=0AAAAAD3I0_aU8NmQrksL3q0T546RbgVx_&gclid=CjwKCAjw8arQBhB9EiwAfIKdQliKNIj0Z3aBupaGFbY6xi-D-nHPrSNhWwlW4pWQ4s9dueYQj_v8uxoCmjYQAvD_BwE
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Here's a shot of I don't think I have shared yet, from last fall, of the LTK266-D-SL with Tavelo Avro bars (130mm stem, 380mm width bars at the hoods). This is with FSA no 55 and the comparible spacers from Tavelo (via Panda Podium). It is slammed.
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Hey guys, I've ordered this frame and am building with Ultegra 12s Di2. Haven't ordered tires yet.
I know the frame can fit rather wide tires but I heard wide tires could hit the front derailleur.
What's the max width tires that's been tried for this frame whilst using shimano 2x groupset?
I was hoping to use Pirelli p zero race rs 700x35 on a 25mm ID rim. I think that could get up to a 37mm mounted width.
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Hey guys, I've ordered this frame and am building with Ultegra 12s Di2. Haven't ordered tires yet.
I know the frame can fit rather wide tires but I heard wide tires could hit the front derailleur.
What's the max width tires that's been tried for this frame whilst using shimano 2x groupset?
I was hoping to use Pirelli p zero race rs 700x35 on a 25mm ID rim. I think that could get up to a 37mm mounted width.
You'll be fine with those pirellis. I run 35mm michelin pro 5 tires on 24mm internal width rims, which measure around 36.5, and they're nowhere near my front derailleur. I have SRAM but the clearance is the same as Shimano. Can get a 5mm allen key all around the back tire.
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I have an eye on the lightcarbon HRB17 handlebar. Does anybody know, of there is Another way to Contact them instead of using the inquiriy Button? And i Like the rise of the bar, perhaps there are similiar other Options on the Market in Same weight category?
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ULLICYC T4 ULTRA looks similar to Lightcarbon HRB17 in shape, but has differences on computer mount and how it secures to the steerer tube
Answered this already in your other post
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,7270.msg111205.html#msg111205 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,7270.msg111205.html#msg111205)
but you seem to spread your questions all over...
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I went through this entire thread and I think I will be picking up this frame. I ride mostly gravel but would like a road bike for long long road rides, this frame ticks many boxes. I intend to use this as more of a endurance ride and not a slammed racer.
Going with size a L after comparing the numbers on with what i currently ride ( i measure 5.10 feet )
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/rodeo-labs-flaanimal-5-0-2020-56-cm,longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l/ for anyone interested.
I was hoping to have anyone could chime in on M vs L sizing since i am kind of between.
Other take aways from reading:
1. Ditch the included headset and get a FSA N.55
2. Sugru for the holes
3. T47 85.5 internal
4. aprotobike for a seat post cover
5. possibly having to brake posts ?
6. as of 5/2026 I am expecting to cost 850-950 usd shipped
Anything else I should be aware of for a painless build?
Since you want gravel/endurance ride bike why wouldn't you choose Lightcarbon: LCR018-D over this frame? I am in the same situation as You and comfort/ more tire clearence/ aero/ maintaining speed in this case is more important to me than less bike weight since i will not use this bike on climb.
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Finally took delivery of my xxl frame :).
Just unpacked it and thrown the frame on the scales. 861gr with fd/rd hardware.
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Since you want gravel/endurance ride bike why wouldn't you choose Lightcarbon: LCR018-D over this frame? I am in the same situation as You and comfort/ more tire clearence/ aero/ maintaining speed in this case is more important to me than less bike weight since i will not use this bike on climb.
This bike has race-bike geometry. The handling and body position are different.
For a rider capable of using this bike's geometry, the aero difference is huge compared to something like the LCR018 and would easily overshadow any frame aero benefits (i.e., wouldn't surprise me if it were 10x). Besides, neither this bike nor the Light Carbon has been aero tested, so no one knows which is more aero anyway.
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Finally took delivery of my xxl frame :).
Just unpacked it and thrown the frame on the scales. 861gr with fd/rd hardware.
Awesome. I think this will be the first XL or XXL build on here. Can't wait to see it!
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Finally took delivery of my xxl frame :).
Just unpacked it and thrown the frame on the scales. 861gr with fd/rd hardware.
That weight is for black carbon matte finish, right?
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That weight is for black carbon matte finish, right?
I went for the carbon matte clearcoat, no black pigments in the clearcoat.
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This bike has race-bike geometry. The handling and body position are different.
For a rider capable of using this bike's geometry, the aero difference is huge compared to something like the LCR018 and would easily overshadow any frame aero benefits (i.e., wouldn't surprise me if it were 10x). Besides, neither this bike nor the Light Carbon has been aero tested, so no one knows which is more aero anyway.
shhhh right now I am a bit confused what to choose. Maily because LCR018-D with front derailleur will fit 38mm tires only. I was wondering with 40 but it just can handle 1x shifting and I would build 2x. Would i feel much difference between 35mm(this frame max tire clearence than 38mm LC)?
So i never had any better bike than my current corratec superbow world cup from 2005 which I use as a roadbike. Kinda funny but never had budget and also it was never a problem for me to just have fun with cycling. Last week I did 250km on it with 2.0 mtb tires mainly on road but mostly I did short ride 30-60km (90-95 on road,5-10% forrest,gravel). As beginner i did a lot of mistakes such as i bought bike 1 size too big so i ended up with too big bike with cutted all bridge pads so needed to buy new bridge with 45up degrees to ride comfortable.
So as you said you would be suprise if this could be 10x more aero than LCR018-D then what would you suggest to buy.
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Is this the right one?
https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO55R-1-1-8-zu-15-ACR-3-mm-mit-Expander-matt-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gbraid=0AAAAAD3I0_Zrhu1ssn2eFB7T5bVwu60i4&gclid=Cj0KCQjww8rQBhDjARIsAE43KPO7mrs8hbVS12FaUKpGECA0qupsiJtfL4dj5fv4gvTyjNQhKQNkrToaAmPREALw_wcB
And this Spacer kit?
https://www.bike-components.de/de/FSA/ACR-Spacer-Kit-p88117/
Have bought the Lightcarbon HRB17 handlebar.
Seatpost Dustcover: dont find a shop where its available - can somebody Help?
This is the right thing?
https://www.goldsprintshop.com/Giant-Staubkappe-waterproof-fuer-D-Fuse-Sattelstuetze
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At 188cm tall and 90cm inner leg I am looking into XXL frame. With Stack 601 and Reach 401 I think it would work better for me then XL with to me only 580 stack. Any thoughts please?
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shhhh right now I am a bit confused what to choose. Maily because LCR018-D with front derailleur will fit 38mm tires only. I was wondering with 40 but it just can handle 1x shifting and I would build 2x. Would i feel much difference between 35mm(this frame max tire clearence than 38mm LC)?
So i never had any better bike than my current corratec superbow world cup from 2005 which I use as a roadbike. Kinda funny but never had budget and also it was never a problem for me to just have fun with cycling. Last week I did 250km on it with 2.0 mtb tires mainly on road but mostly I did short ride 30-60km (90-95 on road,5-10% forrest,gravel). As beginner i did a lot of mistakes such as i bought bike 1 size too big so i ended up with too big bike with cutted all bridge pads so needed to buy new bridge with 45up degrees to ride comfortable.
So as you said you would be suprise if this could be 10x more aero than LCR018-D then what would you suggest to buy.
The outdoor aero testing I do is not a gold standard type of anything and it’s specific to me. However, the aero differences between bikes that you can notice IME come down to position. Being able to keep your front end narrow and stable, elbows tucked in is worth a lot of watts. Being able to get your back into the flattest position you can, likely worth a lot of watts.
That said, I cant tell you that you will be able to make use of the potential difference between the LCR018-D and the LTK266-D-SL. Nobody but a bike fitter can do that.
As someone who does take advantage of position differences (and the LTK is actually not aggressive enough for a pure road bike for me) the difference between my custom road bike and the LTK “test” bike is not that different than the difference between by custom road bike and an SL8 or a Dogma F12. Does that make the LTK fast? No, it means that the resolution of position and fit things like keeping my elbows tucked in drown out the impact of tube shapes.
If you just want a fun bike to ride, I would just buy whichever one you like the look of best. After all riding the bike is what matters.
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Is this the right one?
https://r2-bike.com/FSA-Steuersatz-NO55R-1-1-8-zu-15-ACR-3-mm-mit-Expander-matt-schwarz?iso=DE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22594505661&gbraid=0AAAAAD3I0_Zrhu1ssn2eFB7T5bVwu60i4&gclid=Cj0KCQjww8rQBhDjARIsAE43KPO7mrs8hbVS12FaUKpGECA0qupsiJtfL4dj5fv4gvTyjNQhKQNkrToaAmPREALw_wcB
And this Spacer kit?
https://www.bike-components.de/de/FSA/ACR-Spacer-Kit-p88117/
Have bought the Lightcarbon HRB17 handlebar.
Seatpost Dustcover: dont find a shop where its available - can somebody Help?
This is the right thing?
https://www.goldsprintshop.com/Giant-Staubkappe-waterproof-fuer-D-Fuse-Sattelstuetze
Yes, that’s the right headset. If your LC bar hasn’t shipped yet, just ask for their ACR adapter and you should be set. No additional spacers needed.
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Initial assembly of my xxl frame is done, done a weight weenie build on a budget. 6.9kg as pictured, no pedals or bar tape, rigged for komfort with plenty of spacers right now
For reference I'm 193cm tall with an 93cm inseam and fairly flexible.
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At 188cm tall and 90cm inner leg I am looking into XXL frame. With Stack 601 and Reach 401 I think it would work better for me then XL with to me only 580 stack. Any thoughts please?
Im 193cm with an 93cm inseam and went with the XXL, if you done a bike fit or have a bike that you are comfortable on take your (effektive) stack and reach parameters and look at the geometry charts. There's a few online comparison tools available which simplify the process, e.g. geometrygeeks.
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Initial assembly of my xxl frame is done, done a weight weenie build on a budget. 6.9kg as pictured, no pedals or bar tape, rigged for komfort with plenty of spacers right now
For reference I'm 193cm tall with an 93cm inseam and fairly flexible.
Your build looks great! I’m buying this frame whenever I am convinced about the type of paint I want to get, also in size XXL (2 meters tall, on the upper end of the maximum seatpost extension). I would love to hear your feedback on how it rides!
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The outdoor aero testing I do is not a gold standard type of anything and it’s specific to me. However, the aero differences between bikes that you can notice IME come down to position. Being able to keep your front end narrow and stable, elbows tucked in is worth a lot of watts. Being able to get your back into the flattest position you can, likely worth a lot of watts.
That said, I cant tell you that you will be able to make use of the potential difference between the LCR018-D and the LTK266-D-SL. Nobody but a bike fitter can do that.
As someone who does take advantage of position differences (and the LTK is actually not aggressive enough for a pure road bike for me) the difference between my custom road bike and the LTK “test” bike is not that different than the difference between by custom road bike and an SL8 or a Dogma F12. Does that make the LTK fast? No, it means that the resolution of position and fit things like keeping my elbows tucked in drown out the impact of tube shapes.
If you just want a fun bike to ride, I would just buy whichever one you like the look of best. After all riding the bike is what matters.
I can see that ratio(stack to reach) in smaller size - (LTK is 1.37 in S size and LCR is 1.43 in 50size) are much more than in bigger (in sizes 54 are mostly equal LRC 1.45 and LTK - 1.48) size so probably I will ended up with LCR018-D.
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Crashed my bike , so decided to try the LTK266. Alisa was very helpful and said it would be done and shipped soon. (size L, transparent glossy blue)
Still a bit sceptical about the seatpost. It seems very wide and non-aero, and that bulky ritchey clamp is kind of a pity as well. Same goes for the seatpost clamp solution - not the best design I think, but again hopefully OK.
Ordered a 55R low stack headset and hopefully will 3D-print some adapters to get a nice transition to my stem. Going with semi-integrated with the brake hoses running open under the stem, was my plan.
Was there a STL-file for di2 battery holder? Went through the posts but couldn't find it.
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Crashed my bike , so decided to try the LTK266. Alisa was very helpful and said it would be done and shipped soon. (size L, transparent glossy blue)
Still a bit sceptical about the seatpost. It seems very wide and non-aero, and that bulky ritchey clamp is kind of a pity as well. Same goes for the seatpost clamp solution - not the best design I think, but again hopefully OK.
Ordered a 55R low stack headset and hopefully will 3D-print some adapters to get a nice transition to my stem. Going with semi-integrated with the brake hoses running open under the stem, was my plan.
Was there a STL-file for di2 battery holder? Went through the posts but couldn't find it.
The seatpost clamp has been problematic for me. I ordered a raw frame and painted it myself. The fit of the raw seatpost was very sloppy. I sanded the inserted section of post with 80 grit and applied an additional 4 coats of clear to add volume. Even then the 3 piece clamp did not have enough travel to bind the post effectively. My fix was to add a piece of .004 brass shim stock between the frame and the clamp effectively making it thicker. This, along with exceeding the printed torque limit to 12Nm, seems to be holding.
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Crashed my bike , so decided to try the LTK266. Alisa was very helpful and said it would be done and shipped soon. (size L, transparent glossy blue)
Still a bit sceptical about the seatpost. It seems very wide and non-aero, and that bulky ritchey clamp is kind of a pity as well. Same goes for the seatpost clamp solution - not the best design I think, but again hopefully OK.
Ordered a 55R low stack headset and hopefully will 3D-print some adapters to get a nice transition to my stem. Going with semi-integrated with the brake hoses running open under the stem, was my plan.
Was there a STL-file for di2 battery holder? Went through the posts but couldn't find it.
There were a member that had 3d printed a di2 battery holder, can't find any info if it were made public.
I mounted mine with some of the packaging material and a pair of O-rings.
As a detail obsessed person :D i'm tempted to order the GIANT kit ( GIA150000049), looks it's around 11EUR + shipping.
Regarding the aero properties of the frame i'd say its a bit chunky overall, this is not a sleek aero model of a frame.
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XL Frame ordered. Just wanted to check a few things:
What wire lengths for those using di2?
Any bottom bracket suggestions? Ill be using a standard 24mm crank.
Ill be running 160mm rotors front and back - not sure from this thread whether ill need adaptors?
Im going to order axles as per this post or are there any others to recommend?
I swapped them for these:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Wztwp
L117 M12x1.5 TL12
L168 M12x1.0 TL19
Need to order 2mm spacers
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPxuPP7
They are obviously a bit lighter but I didn’t weight them on a scale. I know nothing about this brand so take my advice with a grain of salt.
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The seatpost clamp has been problematic for me. I ordered a raw frame and painted it myself. The fit of the raw seatpost was very sloppy. I sanded the inserted section of post with 80 grit and applied an additional 4 coats of clear to add volume. Even then the 3 piece clamp did not have enough travel to bind the post effectively. My fix was to add a piece of .004 brass shim stock between the frame and the clamp effectively making it thicker. this along with exceeding the printed torque limit to 12Nm seems to be holding.
Thanks for the report. I saw over on WW that someone also got the wrong size bolt (too long) with their seatpost. I didn't check mine for length, and I wish I had, so I can't provide a reference for what size bolt was correct. I will take that info and add to the first post when I get the chance to measure it.
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XL Frame ordered. Just wanted to check a few things:
What wire lengths for those using di2?
Any bottom bracket suggestions? Ill be using a standard 24mm crank.
Ill be running 160mm rotors front and back - not sure from this thread whether ill need adaptors?
Im going to order axles as per this post or are there any others to recommend?
Yes. You will need adapters.
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Apologies if this might be a stupid question, this is my first time building up a bike from scratch after doing all my maintenance by myself. After doing tons of research, I’m currently gathering parts after ordering my XXL frame. I am going to use a 1by Force E1 chain and DUB crankset, rest will be Rival E1 components. Everything is going quite smoothly so far (I think), but I can’t wrap my head around how I am supposed to know what chainline I should get and what chainring offset I should get. Do you guys have any knowledge on what offset I should get? I will use a 44-48t chainring (I’m not entirely sure yet) with a 10-30 rear cassette.
By the way, I paid 913€/1016$ for frame fork seatpost with blue ice crack paint(+160$), thru axles, rear hanger, seatpost cover and shipping to EU, for whoever is interested. Contact with Alisa was pretty smooth, back and forthing with the paint factory wasn’t as optimized though. LT would save a lot of time if they just upload the colours they can do to their website.
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Apologies if this might be a stupid question, this is my first time building up a bike from scratch after doing all my maintenance by myself. After doing tons of research, I’m currently gathering parts after ordering my XXL frame. I am going to use a 1by Force E1 chain and DUB crankset, rest will be Rival E1 components. Everything is going quite smoothly so far (I think), but I can’t wrap my head around how I am supposed to know what chainline I should get and what chainring offset I should get. Do you guys have any knowledge on what offset I should get? I will use a 44-48t chainring (I’m not entirely sure yet) with a 10-30 rear cassette.
By the way, I paid 913€/1016$ for frame fork seatpost with blue ice crack paint(+160$), thru axles, rear hanger, seatpost cover and shipping to EU, for whoever is interested. Contact with Alisa was pretty smooth, back and forthing with the paint factory wasn’t as optimized though. LT would save a lot of time if they just upload the colours they can do to their website.
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/road/2024-road-frame-fit-specifications.pdf
See pages 20 or 21. Basically, a 45mm chainline is ideal for both 13spd and 12spd, depending on the chainstays. For 12spd, you can use a 47.5mm chainline if you want. The specific offset will depend somewhat on your crank and spider, so that's a more complicated question. Not sure there are any / many Easton interface chainrings that work with the correct 13spd chainline for a frame with the stays this short.
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https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/road/2024-road-frame-fit-specifications.pdf
See pages 20 or 21. Basically, a 45mm chainline is ideal for both 13spd and 12spd, depending on the chainstays. For 12spd, you can use a 47.5mm chainline if you want. The specific offset will depend somewhat on your crank and spider, so that's a more complicated question. Not sure there are any / many Easton interface chainrings that work with the correct 13spd chainline for a frame with the stays this short.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-frc-1-e1
Thanks for your reply:) Sorry I forgot to mention, I wanted to use a direct mount chainring, as a spider seems unnecessary. But I found it now, Sram has very specific 6.5mm offset chainrings for 1by road setups. Hope I can get my hands on a cheaper one, I can only find red chainrings that are compatible and they cost a staggering 200 bucks.
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https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-frc-1-e1
Thanks for your reply:) Sorry I forgot to mention, I wanted to use a direct mount chainring, as a spider seems unnecessary. But I found it now, Sram has very specific 6.5mm offset chainrings for 1by road setups. Hope I can get my hands on a cheaper one, I can only find red chainrings that are compatible and they cost a staggering 200 bucks.
Its not perfect, but wolftooth has a 6mm offset ring in 48t that is 8 bolt (45.5mm chainline), which was my plan when i was considering a 13 spd 1x build
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I’m going to buy this frame soon, but when I asked Rex via the whatsapp listed on longtengbike.com it was a lot more expensive than when I messaged Alisa via ltbikes.com. 900$ via Rex, 620$ via Alisa. Also you can buy the frame via Tideace & Permeants, but they are also more expensive.
hi，max，I'm Rex.
I am sorry to hear you feel that my asking price was too high. Have you forgotten that you requested a custom paint job involving three different colors? Alisa's quote of $620 was for a standard, unpainted finish; typically, she would charge an additional $85 for each custom color.
With the three custom colors alone amounting to $255—and adding that to the $620 cost of the frame itself—the total comes to nearly $875. My quote of $900, however, also included a complimentary set of accessories for you, did it not?
Furthermore, I also went to the trouble of sourcing the specific paints you requested.
I hope you are pleased with the final custom piece. ;D ;D
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hi，max，I'm Rex.
I am sorry to hear you feel that my asking price was too high. Have you forgotten that you requested a custom paint job involving three different colors? Alisa's quote of $620 was for a standard, unpainted finish; typically, she would charge an additional $85 for each custom color.
With the three custom colors alone amounting to $255—and adding that to the $620 cost of the frame itself—the total comes to nearly $875. My quote of $900, however, also included a complimentary set of accessories for you, did it not?
Furthermore, I also went to the trouble of sourcing the specific paints you requested.
I hope you are pleased with the final custom piece. ;D ;D
Hi Rex, I think there must have been a misunderstanding. You said the price of the frame was 900 dollars, and 1 paint color would cost 30 dollars. I assumed that the 900$ didn’t include custom paint (because you said it costed 30$ per colour) or shipping ($125), yes you said it’d include headset and thru axles. You’re either covering up a mistake or there has been some kind of misunderstanding? I went through Alisa with sourcing the custom paint, so I don’t really know what you are talking about. Maybe you can clear it up.
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Hi,
I found this cover. It fits the seatpost really well. You just have to cut off about half of the small nipple. But it’s better than all the other solutions I’ve found.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005011570720633.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.7bfbqgiQqgiQjw&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21EUR+3.25%21EUR+3.25%21%21EUR+3.25%21%21%21%4021038b2f17798711765016677e164a%2112000055950847520%21ct%21DE%217401911272%21%211%210%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Another question: Does anyone know if the Giant D-Fuse seatpost fits? I’d like one with setback.
Thanks and best regards from Germany
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Hi
I bought the same cover and agree with you.
I thus thought the Defy seatpost would fit and wanted a seatpost mount for my Garmin varia. Ordered one made for the Defy seatpost and it is way too small unfortunately, suggesting the Defy seatpost would not fit at all. I guess the rubber seatpost cover stretches which explains why it fits well.
Hi,
I found this cover. It fits the seatpost really well. You just have to cut off about half of the small nipple. But it’s better than all the other solutions I’ve found.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005011570720633.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.7bfbqgiQqgiQjw&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21EUR+3.25%21EUR+3.25%21%21EUR+3.25%21%21%21%4021038b2f17798711765016677e164a%2112000055950847520%21ct%21DE%217401911272%21%211%210%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Another question: Does anyone know if the Giant D-Fuse seatpost fits? I’d like one with setback.
Thanks and best regards from Germany
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Hi,
I found this cover. It fits the seatpost really well. You just have to cut off about half of the small nipple. But it’s better than all the other solutions I’ve found.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005011570720633.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.7bfbqgiQqgiQjw&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21EUR+3.25%21EUR+3.25%21%21EUR+3.25%21%21%21%4021038b2f17798711765016677e164a%2112000055950847520%21ct%21DE%217401911272%21%211%210%21&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Another question: Does anyone know if the Giant D-Fuse seatpost fits? I’d like one with setback.
Thanks and best regards from Germany
I am repeating myself but the standard seatclamp cover fits great on mine.
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I am repeating myself but the standard seatclamp cover fits great on mine.
Your bike looks great but that cover is just horrific.
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hi，max，I'm Rex.
I am sorry to hear you feel that my asking price was too high. Have you forgotten that you requested a custom paint job involving three different colors? Alisa's quote of $620 was for a standard, unpainted finish; typically, she would charge an additional $85 for each custom color.
With the three custom colors alone amounting to $255—and adding that to the $620 cost of the frame itself—the total comes to nearly $875. My quote of $900, however, also included a complimentary set of accessories for you, did it not?
Furthermore, I also went to the trouble of sourcing the specific paints you requested.
I hope you are pleased with the final custom piece. ;D ;D
Hi Rex--I worked with Alisa on my order and she was great to work with. Since you are here, however, I have some suggestions that would hopefully help the community work with you get more frames.
- Create a survey as an order form. This will help customers know the complete list of options and select the right ones. You do not need to name a price up front, though I am sure some customers would really like that. The goal is to reduce the number of emails we need to send.
- Consider adding a Di2 holder, rubber mechanical routing plugs, and redesigned seatpost clamp cover as accessories. The missing parts and the seatpost clamp cover are distracting from an otherwise great frameset
- Also consider upgrading the through axles. I think nicer ones are offered by Mondinice, not sure if you can also supply them, but I suspect customers would pay for lighter-weight thru axles. The current ones don't look like they match the qualities of the frame, even in photos.
I understand that as a factory, you don't want to carry too many accessories or inventory, so maybe the thru-axles are too much, but just fixing the rubber parts would be really helpful.
Thanks for being on the forum and I appreciate the work all of you do to make these frames available to us.
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Your bike looks great but that cover is just horrific.
Oh my... I had no idea people could get so offended by a piece or rubber... ;D
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Hi Rex, I think there must have been a misunderstanding. You said the price of the frame was 900 dollars, and 1 paint color would cost 30 dollars. I assumed that the 900$ didn’t include custom paint (because you said it costed 30$ per colour) or shipping ($125), yes you said it’d include headset and thru axles. You’re either covering up a mistake or there has been some kind of misunderstanding? I went through Alisa with sourcing the custom paint, so I don’t really know what you are talking about. Maybe you can clear it up.
Oh, I'm sorry—I mistook you for someone else. I have a client named Max, just like you, and I got the two of you mixed up. My apologies; let's just let this go. ;D ;D ;D
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Since you want gravel/endurance ride bike why wouldn't you choose Lightcarbon: LCR018-D over this frame? I am in the same situation as You and comfort/ more tire clearence/ aero/ maintaining speed in this case is more important to me than less bike weight since i will not use this bike on climb.
I am still in the deciding phase of what bike to get, but The light carbon would be a little redundant. My gravel bike already can fit 40+ tires. Not sure if i can get used to that eagle eye design either.
The LTK is a snappier bike that can still take chubby tires, is aesthetically pleasing, and would be going on climbs in my case.
That said, I cant tell you that you will be able to make use of the potential difference between the LCR018-D and the LTK266-D-SL. Nobody but a bike fitter can do that.
If you just want a fun bike to ride, I would just buy whichever one you like the look of best. After all riding the bike is what matters.
Well said. I shelled out the cash and made an appointment with a fitter to help figure what is best for me.
Riding cool bikes is fun indeed 8)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/02ZPPMLB/20260522-192202PSX-cut-121-2560.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMQ44h98/20260522-192234PSX-cut2-1920.jpg) (https://i.postimg.cc/FHBvJtFK/20260522-192310PSX-cut-916-1440.jpg) (https://i.postimg.cc/qMQ44h93/20260522-192245PSX-1920.jpg) (https://i.postimg.cc/dV1v1QF1/20260522-192253PSX-1920.jpg)
Final weight is 6,280kg as pictured (but without the Fly bottles)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9QJthht3/Parts-20260522.jpg)
The build was straight forward. They only issue was the M5 bolt from the seatpost clamp, that I had to switch out with a 5mm shorter one. Fit is not final, need to get lower and a bit longer. There is some weight savings still to make.
I liked the "Mixtape" paintjob that Specialized put on some Tarmac SL6 frames, so I wrapped the frameset with vinyl stripes. Not sure if i'll keep it that way, but thats the beauty of vinyl wrap.
Did about 550km on it in the last 8 days. It basically rides like a TCR. It just gets the job done without any fuss. There is no buss, no noise at all from the bike, which is quite nice. For the ZEN wheels I'll write something down at the propper place. Not as good as the Newmens, a lot better than the XMCS I've had issues with.
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What Vinylstripes you bought? You have a Special technique for that or freestyle? Have a blackmatte Tantan and perhaps this is a possibility to Upgrade the optic.
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Final weight is 6,280kg as pictured (but without the Fly bottles)
The build was straight forward. They only issue was the M5 bolt from the seatpost clamp, that I had to switch out with a 5mm shorter one. Fit is not final, need to get lower and a bit longer. There is some weight savings still to make.
I liked the "Mixtape" paintjob that Specialized put on some Tarmac SL6 frames, so I wrapped the frameset with vinyl stripes. Not sure if i'll keep it that way, but thats the beauty of vinyl wrap.
Did about 550km on it in the last 8 days. It basically rides like a TCR. It just gets the job done without any fuss. There is no buss, no noise at all from the bike, which is quite nice. For the ZEN wheels I'll write something down at the propper place. Not as good as the Newmens, a lot better than the XMCS I've had issues with.
Nice build, it looks awesome.
Which rear derailleur hanger did you use for this frame?
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What Vinylstripes you bought? You have a Special technique for that or freestyle? Have a blackmatte Tantan and perhaps this is a possibility to Upgrade the optic.
These
https://www.ebay.de/itm/133203751057 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/133203751057)
https://www.ebay.de/itm/264220971593 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/264220971593)
Nice build, it looks awesome.
Which rear derailleur hanger did you use for this frame?
That one is from Nova Ride. But for no particular reason. I can just get them from one of my distributers.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/9QJthht3/Parts-20260522.jpg)
great build. Could you specify the exact model number of the Heppe thru axles you used? I'm looking to upgrade mine... No problems with the ones supplied by LT, just as others have noted they don't match the build quality of the frame.
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great build. Could you specify the exact model number of the Heppe thru axles you used? I'm looking to upgrade mine... No problems with the ones supplied by LT, just as others have noted they don't match the build quality of the frame.
Got them from here:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005612065745.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.3a655c5fiFxE3L&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005612065745.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.3a655c5fiFxE3L&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu)
12x1.0 in 167mm
12x1.5 in 118mm
You also need one 2mm washer for the front.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001259192669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.3a655c5fiFxE3L&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001259192669.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.3a655c5fiFxE3L&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu)
Diameter needs to be max. 19mm. Otherwise it won't fit into the fork.
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Frameset is shipped. Thanks to Rex for his Patience with me! ;D
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(https://i.postimg.cc/4dvZRbJ9/IMG-1762.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDv4QnSy)
With the build now complete, the bike weighs 6.68 kg, including the two bottle cages, Garmin mount, and pedals. The only remaining upgrade is a set of Heppe thru-axles; for now, it is still using the original ones.
Components Used
Ullicyc T4 Ultra integrated handlebar (380 × 110 mm)
Kore Cyclone wheelset with a 50 mm rim depth, 23/24 mm internal width, and 30 mm external width 3.2 mm carbon spokes
RideNow TPU inner tubes
Continental GP5000 28 mm tires
BigRock 165 mm crankset
PassQuest Aero chainrings
Xcadey Gen2 power meter
Lightweight Goldix 12-speed cassette (11–34T), fully steel construction
Enlee ultralight 9 g bottle cages
Vertical bottle cage adapter
Shimano 105 Di2 groupset
Riderace ceramic pulley wheels
UDH-style direct mount derailleur hanger
Walgun ceramic bottom bracket
Lightweight Riderace Center Lock lockrings
Titanium bolts throughout
Supacaz-style handlebar tape
Onirii pedals
Shimano MT800 160 mm brake rotors
Elita One saddle
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(https://i.postimg.cc/4dvZRbJ9/IMG-1762.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDv4QnSy)
With the build now complete, the bike weighs 6.68 kg, including the two bottle cages, Garmin mount, and pedals. The only remaining upgrade is a set of Heppe thru-axles; for now, it is still using the original ones.
Components Used
Ullicyc T4 Ultra integrated handlebar (380 × 110 mm)
Kore Cyclone wheelset with a 50 mm rim depth, 23/24 mm internal width, and 30 mm external width 3.2 mm carbon spokes
RideNow TPU inner tubes
Continental GP5000 28 mm tires
BigRock 165 mm crankset
PassQuest Aero chainrings
Xcadey Gen2 power meter
Lightweight Goldix 12-speed cassette (11–34T), fully steel construction
Enlee ultralight 9 g bottle cages
Vertical bottle cage adapter
Shimano 105 Di2 groupset
Riderace ceramic pulley wheels
UDH-style direct mount derailleur hanger
Walgun ceramic bottom bracket
Lightweight Riderace Center Lock lockrings
Titanium bolts throughout
Supacaz-style handlebar tape
Onirii pedals
Shimano MT800 160 mm brake rotors
Elita One saddle
That looks beautiful! Planning to get the exact same wheels, and Alisa just told me my frame will be shipped this week. So excited! What headset did you use?
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That looks beautiful! Planning to get the exact same wheels, and Alisa just told me my frame will be shipped this week. So excited! What headset did you use?
Alisa sent me three bearings. I used the two 51.8 × 40 mm bearings with 36°/45° angles. I didn't measure their height, but I assume they were 7 or 8 mm tall. There was also another bearing, but with different angles (45°/45°). I installed it without the lower crown race on the fork, and it ended up perfectly preloaded with no play at all.
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I ordered a LTK266 some days ago and wonder a bit about the headset as well. I planned to use a FSA N55 together with the very popular Kocevlo Handlebar (https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzNRJ8w). I am supposed to use the "Compression Ring" (the part that goes right on top of the upper bearing) that comes with the handlebar in order to fit the Kocevlo spacers right? I wonder if that will fit, since I expect the Kocevlo spacer to have a camber of 45° since that's the most common camber angle of headset bearings. The FSA N55 however has a camber of 36°. Does anybody knows if I misunderstand something and how I could resolve this problem?
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Hi all, been lurking a while now and thought I should share my build. Just had my frame delivered in a large and black gloss. Took only a week after it was dispatched, so very quick. Quality is amazing and finish is superb. This is the third direct from China frame I have built and it’s easily the best so far.
I am waiting on a few bits and bobs to turn up to get it built properly but here are a couple of pics from my build so far and if you have any questions would love to help.
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Ordered a Large, in "transparent blue" may 23.
Shipped about a week later, and recieved it yesterday, so just over 2 weeks.
Built up today with a mix ultegra/dura ace, ztto 11-34, x260 crank, DFS 60/60mm wheels and pirelli SL-R 30mm, (heavy) 130mm enve aero stem and enve aero 37/42 handlebar.
Weight is about 6.7kg as shown inc pedals, aero bottle cages, computer mount.
Build was quite straight forward. No issues, but I might have to flatten the brake mounts, because brakes was screaming when I tested it in the yard.
Taking it for a ride tonight.
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Just ordered my frame, very excited. Small Black UD Matte. :D
Now to decide on the rest of the build
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Has anyone got a recommendation on how to mount the Di2 Battery into the seatpost? I´ve read there is someone who has made a 3D printable file for a holder but i couldn´t find any information about it. I would appreciate any tips or diy solutions :)
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Has anyone got a recommendation on how to mount the Di2 Battery into the seatpost? I´ve read there is someone who has made a 3D printable file for a holder but i couldn´t find any information about it. I would appreciate any tips or diy solutions :)
I just wrapped some foam around it and pushed it in...
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Has anyone got a recommendation on how to mount the Di2 Battery into the seatpost? I´ve read there is someone who has made a 3D printable file for a holder but i couldn´t find any information about it. I would appreciate any tips or diy solutions :)
I‘m using the Deda seatpost mount in wide. The Pro Mount in Wide also fits.
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Has anyone got a recommendation on how to mount the Di2 Battery into the seatpost? I´ve read there is someone who has made a 3D printable file for a holder but i couldn´t find any information about it. I would appreciate any tips or diy solutions :)
I design and print a lot so once mine arrives (and I fully decide on di2) I'll give it a shot and post the STL here for free.
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I just wrapped "just enough" bar-tape around the battery and stuffed it up the seatpost...
Added like 3 grams max - and is sitting real solid
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Has anyone got a recommendation on how to mount the Di2 Battery into the seatpost? I´ve read there is someone who has made a 3D printable file for a holder but i couldn´t find any information about it. I would appreciate any tips or diy solutions :)
I ended up buying and using this one in size 21-29mm
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005012145741190.html
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Ordered a Large, in "transparent blue" may 23.
Shipped about a week later, and recieved it yesterday, so just over 2 weeks.
Built up today with a mix ultegra/dura ace, ztto 11-34, x260 crank, DFS 60/60mm wheels and pirelli SL-R 30mm, (heavy) 130mm enve aero stem and enve aero 37/42 handlebar.
Weight is about 6.7kg as shown inc pedals, aero bottle cages, computer mount.
Build was quite straight forward. No issues, but I might have to flatten the brake mounts, because brakes was screaming when I tested it in the yard.
Taking it for a ride tonight.
I generally like all bike builds, but would love to see more photos of this one.
The transparent blue looks really good.
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Ordered a Large, in "transparent blue" may 23.
Shipped about a week later, and recieved it yesterday, so just over 2 weeks.
Built up today with a mix ultegra/dura ace, ztto 11-34, x260 crank, DFS 60/60mm wheels and pirelli SL-R 30mm, (heavy) 130mm enve aero stem and enve aero 37/42 handlebar.
Weight is about 6.7kg as shown inc pedals, aero bottle cages, computer mount.
Build was quite straight forward. No issues, but I might have to flatten the brake mounts, because brakes was screaming when I tested it in the yard.
Taking it for a ride tonight.
Best color so far... Kinda jealous!
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Frame is @ my home! Looks perfectly. Waiting for front derailleur and Zen Wheelset. Should be round about UCI weight Limit @ the end. 866g for my painted frame is fantastic (Size L). Don't buy the heppe thruaxles, cause the original one are only 18g heavier. Bottom Bracket T47 is well threaded. I can't wait to ride my new mountain goat next year @ötztaler Radmarathon.
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Hi all, my XXLframe was shipped today. I have sourced almost all the parts and learned a lot about industry standards & what matches best so I can build the best bike possible for little money (I’m a student), but there is only one thing I am struggling to understand. I don’t get headset & handlebar compatibility. I am looking at a Toseek TKR02, but most stiff bars around 350g or less with a 38x120/130 size should do. Is this compatible with the headset that comes with the bike or what do I need to make this work properly? I would prefer not spending too much money on an FSA headset & fsa adapter. It’s probably a stupid question but I just can’t figure it out. So to resume my question in short: What solid barstem/headset combo sub 160€ is compatible with this frameset?
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Hi all, my XXLframe was shipped today. I have sourced almost all the parts and learned a lot about industry standards & what matches best so I can build the best bike possible for little money (I’m a student), but there is only one thing I am struggling to understand. I don’t get headset & handlebar compatibility. I am looking at a Toseek TKR02, but most stiff bars around 350g or less with a 38x120/130 size should do. Is this compatible with the headset that comes with the bike or what do I need to make this work properly? I would prefer not spending too much money on an FSA headset & fsa adapter. It’s probably a stupid question but I just can’t figure it out. So to resume my question in short: What solid barstem/headset combo sub 160€ is compatible with this frameset?
The Toseek bar appears to come with a split ring. The question is--is it the right one? There are no specs for it, so you need to ask.
If you bought bearings with the frame, see if they match. In particular, you care about the ID and the chamfer. The bearing should list its size as either something like MR127 (which you can look up) or 40x52x7 (InnerDiameterxOuterDiameterxHeight in mm) and then 36x45 (InnerAnglexOuterAngle in degrees)
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With the frame I bought yesterday, the headset parts were included in the total price, though an expander wasn't part of the package. However, I also purchased the FSA No. 55 LS headset along with a Lightcarbon HBR17 handlebar and FSA adapter (€168)—though that part hasn't been delivered yet. I can report back on it later. The headset itself didn't cost me much (€30). Another question: does anyone happen to have a link (perhaps from Amazon) to a rubber plug or cover for the hole near the front derailleur—the one intended for the Di2 cable? I have rubber plugs at home, but they’re too big. I assume the tiny hole under the bottom bracket (facing the road surface) is supposed to stay open so water can drain out? Thanks for your help!
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Ah Just found the Tesa Sugru Hint!
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With the frame I bought yesterday, the headset parts were included in the total price, though an expander wasn't part of the package. However, I also purchased the FSA No. 55 LS headset along with a Lightcarbon HBR17 handlebar and FSA adapter (€168)—though that part hasn't been delivered yet. I can report back on it later. The headset itself didn't cost me much (€30). Another question: does anyone happen to have a link (perhaps from Amazon) to a rubber plug or cover for the hole near the front derailleur—the one intended for the Di2 cable? I have rubber plugs at home, but they’re too big. I assume the tiny hole under the bottom bracket (facing the road surface) is supposed to stay open so water can drain out? Thanks for your help!
I got these in 4.5mm. Fits Perfect.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ewed0Bk
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Could someone who hasn't assembled the frame yet, or who knows, tell me the size and length of the seatpost wedge bolt? I think mine might be too long, and it's causing the wedge to lift slightly.
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Could someone who hasn't assembled the frame yet, or who knows, tell me the size and length of the seatpost wedge bolt? I think mine might be too long, and it's causing the wedge to lift slightly.
Hi I’m using a 30mm bolt on mine as the one that came with it was also too long.
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If anyone is looking for an alternative seatpost wedge cover, I have used one from a 2024 Giant defy and think it fits pretty well and has minimal overhang at the back. You can pick them up for a couple of pound on aliexpress etc and just need to trim the piece the would normally sit in the bolt.
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I generally like all bike builds, but would love to see more photos of this one.
The transparent blue looks really good.
You're doing such a good job in this thread Sakizashi, so happy to share some more photos.
I really like the color and the bike.
Its a backup for my racebike at the moment, since I crashed my other bike.
Already done two races on the LTK266, and some easy rides.
(One short 40km race with 43km/h average (photo from that), and a longer one 127km race at 39km/h average.)
Its a really nice bike. I find it to have really nice stiffness and comfort at the same time. The weight is of course really nice. It just works. It's not the most stable bike I've ridden, but a find these lightweight DFS 60mm wheels are a bit sensitive, so I'm sure it would be a bit more stable with heavier or lower profile wheels.
Also had a 5km long gravel section, quite fast (38km/h), and the bike handled it really good.
If anything, I really dont like the asthetics of the fat seatpost, and the saddle clamp is heavy and fiddly. Either a round 27.2mm post or a SL8 shaped post would be a big improvement.
On mine I also had to grind down the lower part of the seat post wedge and bolt, because the clamp would sit above the frame otherwise, and push up the cover. I used the Giant Defy one from aliexpress, and had to cut the cover a bit underneat as well to have it sit flush. This one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005011570720633.html
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Hi I’m using a 30mm bolt on mine as the one that came with it was also too long.
Same Problem Here. 30mm M5 or M6?
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Same Problem Here. 30mm M5 or M6?
I‘m using a 28mm M5 Titanium. 5nm was enough to hold the seatpost.
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The Toseek bar appears to come with a split ring. The question is--is it the right one? There are no specs for it, so you need to ask.
If you bought bearings with the frame, see if they match. In particular, you care about the ID and the chamfer. The bearing should list its size as either something like MR127 (which you can look up) or 40x52x7 (InnerDiameterxOuterDiameterxHeight in mm) and then 36x45 (InnerAnglexOuterAngle in degrees)
Just as GravelMaxxer I wonder about the Headset compatibility. I am about to order the FSA N55 Headset (36° inner Camber) and wondered if it will fit the split ring of most generic cockpits from AliX or if they usually use 45° camber instead for their split rings. Is there a defacto standard?
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How are the brake lines routed? The front brake line is self-explanatory: on the LTK fork, it exits at the front of the steerer tube and runs directly through the FSA headset and spacers into the Lightcarbon HRB17 handlebar, leading to the left brake lever. What about the rear brake line? In the attached image, the red circle represents the steerer tube viewed from above. Do you route the rear brake line like the green line (where the line runs upwards behind the steerer tube) or like the purple line (where the line loops around in front of the steerer tube)? In the latter case, the front and rear brake lines would cross each other—either at the level of the steerer tube or, at the latest, where they enter the cockpit. Hopefully, someone understands what I mean. 😄
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Some people heat shrink the hoses together onto the fork. I don't. I just ran 'em so they don't cross.
The front brake line is connected to my left lever. It runs into the headset on the left side and goes straight down. The rear brake line, connected to the right lever, enters the headset on the right side. Slack is both in the HT (in 3d space, so this includes depth) and going back into the frame. The lines never cross.
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Some people heat shrink the hoses together onto the fork. I don't. I just ran 'em so they don't cross.
The front brake line is connected to my left lever. It runs into the headset on the left side and goes straight down. The rear brake line, connected to the right lever, enters the headset on the right side. Slack is both in the HT (in 3d space, so this includes depth) and going back into the frame. The lines never cross.
So you go by the green line in the picture? Rear Brake on the right side of the handlebar and the fork? Don't the hoses cross while turning left?
I went by the purple leaving enough slack.
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So you go by the green line in the picture? Rear Brake on the right side of the handlebar and the fork? Don't the hoses cross while turning left?
I went by the purple leaving enough slack.
I guess its closer to the green line. but it goes out the front so it wraps a lot more around the steerer. Not sure if this really matters, but since the front line moves with the bars, they never cross.
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Just as GravelMaxxer I wonder about the Headset compatibility. I am about to order the FSA N55 Headset (36° inner Camber) and wondered if it will fit the split ring of most generic cockpits from AliX or if they usually use 45° camber instead for their split rings. Is there a defacto standard?
It’s quite difficult to figure out. I think I will do the easy way, I’ll just get that FSA kit, get some stem spacers from Aliexpress, and get an adapter for €40, and a Toseek handlebar. Don’t have a clue what I’m doing, but let’s go.
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It’s quite difficult to figure out. I think I will do the easy way, I’ll just get that FSA kit, get some stem spacers from Aliexpress, and get an adapter for €40, and a Toseek handlebar. Don’t have a clue what I’m doing, but let’s go.
Keep me updated please! I will just order the Kocevlo handlebar and hope the split ring that is coming with it, will fit the FSA headset.
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Still waiting for the frame to ship. :'( I'm also a little confused on the headset stuff. I've ordered the FSA 55R and will order a cockpit after my fit on Friday.
Have we found any different compatible seatposts?
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Those who own the bike in small size, would you mind confirming that the effective top top number Geometrygeek is correct?
Is it really that short?
525 vs 531 (SL8)?
What is the actual TT then? There must be so much toe overlapping in that size then?
(https://i.ibb.co/hF4FtHC6/Screenshot-2026-06-17-172910.png)
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As many have already mentioned, the M5 bolt on the seat post clamp is actually too long; it doesn't sit flush with the top tube, causing the dust cap to stick out. I’ve now bought a 30mm M5 bolt, and it fits perfectly. I’m using a Giant dust cap, and it fits perfectly now, too! I can provide feedback on the headset once my handlebar arrives. I’ve ordered the FSA No. 55 LS and a Lightest HBR17 cockpit with an FSA adapter. Still waiting for delivery!
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As many have already mentioned, the M5 bolt on the seat post clamp is actually too long; it doesn't sit flush with the top tube, causing the dust cap to stick out. I’ve now bought a 30mm M5 bolt, and it fits perfectly. I’m using a Giant dust cap, and it fits perfectly now, too! I can provide feedback on the headset once my handlebar arrives. I’ve ordered the FSA No. 55 LS and a Lightest HBR17 cockpit with an FSA adapter. Still waiting for delivery!
What a strange situation. I think originally they were too short causing people to complain the clamp wasnt flush. This right here is a perfect example of the annoying downsides of an open mold frame.
A bag of custom bolts is literally pennies in extra cost per unit.
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Keep me updated please! I will just order the Kocevlo handlebar and hope the split ring that is coming with it, will fit the FSA headset.
I’m not very knowledged on this. But I’m pretty certain most cockpits will work, as they usually supply a different 1 1/2” inch cover between the handlebar & frame, which fits most standard frames, including this one. So I don’t think you effectively need the FSA ACR headset cover, and can use the one supplied with the handlebar, if it is 56mm wide all around and suitable for integrated cabling. This should make the adapter situation unnecessary, and could save you some money. I’m not sure though, I’ve never worked on a headset before, and I think you can run in to some other issues due to the bearing cambers? Can anyone confirm whether what I’m saying is right or wrong?
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I’m not very knowledged on this. But I’m pretty certain most cockpits will work, as they usually supply a different 1 1/2” inch cover between the handlebar & frame, which fits most standard frames, including this one. So I don’t think you effectively need the FSA ACR headset cover, and can use the one supplied with the handlebar, if it is 56mm wide all around and suitable for integrated cabling. This should make the adapter situation unnecessary, and could save you some money. I’m not sure though, I’ve never worked on a headset before, and I think you can run in to some other issues due to the bearing cambers? Can anyone confirm whether what I’m saying is right or wrong?
You need to match the bearing inner-race angle to the C-ring to get and maintain proper preload. I would guess that most cheap Chinese bars are using 45/45, but it's literally just a wild ass guess. Why there are multiple ACB fitments like this, I have no idea, and I wish the bike industry would just...use one freaking size bearing at each OD. This bike uses the same bearing depth as Deda, FSA, CC, etc, which is by far the most common fitment, so there is less to worry about there.
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I am so torn on what bike to get. I keep coming back to this frame as it ticks every box besides having that aero Scott Foil look. I know it would be an upgrade from my fake Cervelo R5 but I'm still torn. Anyone running this with aero handlebars and ~60mm wheels? How does it.... *sigh*.... "hold speed"?
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You need to match the bearing inner-race angle to the C-ring to get and maintain proper preload. I would guess that most cheap Chinese bars are using 45/45, but it's literally just a wild ass guess. Why there are multiple ACB fitments like this, I have no idea, and I wish the bike industry would just...use one freaking size bearing at each OD. This bike uses the same bearing depth as Deda, FSA, CC, etc, which is by far the most common fitment, so there is less to worry about there.
The inner race & C-ring, do they need to match the headset cover? LT includes a compression ring and the right bearings for the headset, is the C-ring top universal? Or is there standards for C-rings aswell? None of the handlebars I’ve looked at include a C-ring. So I currently am thinking, head tube, proprietary upper bearing, proprietary c-ring, any top cover. Does that work? I’m sorry if my questions are stupid or make no sense,.
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I thought there was a C ring included with the Toseek bars.
Yes, bars needs to match spacers, which needs to match the bearing cover, which needs to match the c ring, which needs to match the bearing. This is literally worse than BB when it comes to standards and fitting stuff together.
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Hello
I posted build specs awhile ago but finally snapped some pics. Thank you all on this thread for your contributions to making this a seamless build. I painted the frame myself in metallic purple - looks amazing in the sun but does not really come through in photos.
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Hi everyone,
Unfortunately, I found a crack in the frame. It's right where the seatpost clamp is. Have any of you had something like this happen to you? I tightened the clamp to a maximum of 5 Nm.
Thanks for your thoughts!
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As many have already mentioned, the M5 bolt on the seat post clamp is actually too long; it doesn't sit flush with the top tube, causing the dust cap to stick out. I’ve now bought a 30mm M5 bolt, and it fits perfectly. I’m using a Giant dust cap, and it fits perfectly now, too! I can provide feedback on the headset once my handlebar arrives. I’ve ordered the FSA No. 55 LS and a Lightest HBR17 cockpit with an FSA adapter. Still waiting for delivery!
what does your clamp look like? Mine sits about 8 mm lower than the top tube.
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Hey, stumbled across this post today and thought, that looks familiar:
https://www.radsport-rennrad.de/test-technik/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-test/
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Hey, stumbled across this post today and thought, that looks familiar:
https://www.radsport-rennrad.de/test-technik/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-test/
Is it the same? :o
Here's the product page for that frame: https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-road-frameset/#frame (https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-road-frameset/#frame)
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I'll ask Stefan the owner of 8bar if the frames come from LT or Mondice when I meet him next time on a group ride ;-)
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what does your clamp look like? Mine sits about 8 mm lower than the top tube.
Mine looks like yours too, in terms of how it sits. It hasnt cracked though.
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Is it the same? :o
Here's the product page for that frame: https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-road-frameset/#frame (https://8bar-bikes.com/shop/8bar-kronprinz-carbon-v3-road-frameset/#frame)
Pretty sure 8-Bar used open molds in the past so its not surprising. I also think this frame is so good its not surprising it got picked up. If i wanted to sell bikes, there is a good chance I would pick this one too.
I do think that claiming aero considerations and kamtail shapes are a bit of a stretch here. Yes, they tried a little, but this bike isnt trying to be aero. The other thing I hate, and it might be a translation from the Radsport article, is that they made it sound like someone in Germany was doing design work and picked the profile of the frame. If its this frame, we know that's not true.
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Pretty sure 8-Bar used open molds in the past so its not surprising. I also think this frame is so good its not surprising it got picked up. If i wanted to sell bikes, there is a good chance I would pick this one too.
I do think that claiming aero considerations and kamtail shapes are a bit of a stretch here. Yes, they tried a little, but this bike isnt trying to be aero. The other thing I hate, and it might be a translation from the Radsport article, is that they made it sound like someone in Germany was doing design work and picked the profile of the frame. If its this frame, we know that's not true.
Nope. That's exactly what it says. That they (8bar) developed the frame. Quite shameless.
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I have similar cracks in the seat tube and I havent even assembled the bike yet.
Perhaps its just cosmetic issue?
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That’s pretty ugly. I would be trying to return the frame.
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I have similar cracks in the seat tube and I havent even assembled the bike yet.
Perhaps its just cosmetic issue?
Thanks for the pictures. Second one looks pretty wild
I got in touch with Alisa.
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Keep me updated please! I will just order the Kocevlo handlebar and hope the split ring that is coming with it, will fit the FSA headset.
I ended up getting the ACR headset, some spacers https://a.aliexpress.com/_EItS9gO a couple of kalloy uno stems in different lengths to try experiment with fit, some RXL SL aero 38 tops handlebars & an adapter from ACR to external routing from here https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eu39WEW.
It’s my first roadbike, so might not be too smart to already have a locked in barstem setup, rather experiment a bit. Different solution, will probably look a bit more ugly, but it makes stuff much more simple. After I’m happy with a certain setup I will get a good barstem combo, but this is easy & still very light for now.
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I have similar cracks in the seat tube and I havent even assembled the bike yet.
Perhaps its just cosmetic issue?
This isnt a crack, but that void seems like could become one. I agree with the others, it would be best to see what they have to say. If it were my product, I would want it back and not have it out in the world with the potential to break.
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Mine initially protruded a few millimeters, now it lies a little lower, but not 8mm.
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Hi all,
Got out on my new build yesterday and did a 50 mile rise and bike felt pretty good. Little stiffer than I’m used to but it’s early days and have a few setup changes to make yet.
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Hi all,
Got out on my new build yesterday and did a 50 mile rise and bike felt pretty good. Little stiffer than I’m used to but it’s early days and have a few setup changes to make yet.
Nice bike.
But a bit too many spacers maybe? I think 40mm is generally considered maximum for carbon steerer tubes?
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Nice bike.
But a bit too many spacers maybe? I think 40mm is generally considered maximum for carbon steerer tubes?
hi thanks. I do have changes still need to be made and will shorten once I have my fit.
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I have similar cracks in the seat tube and I havent even assembled the bike yet.
Perhaps its just cosmetic issue?
Usually pictures make it look worse than it is. I'd probably ride that. You could try to get a freebie out of them, but you re probably missing less than 1mm on a 1cm square patch in a non critical / heavily reinforced area, i think we'd see stuff like that in a lot of frames of people took photos of their frames. I have something similar on the stem of my latest cockpit for example.
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Usually pictures make it look worse than it is. I'd probably ride that. You could try to get a freebie out of them, but you re probably missing less than 1mm on a 1cm square patch in a non critical / heavily reinforced area, i think we'd see stuff like that in a lot of frames of people took photos of their frames. I have something similar on the stem of my latest cockpit for example.
Just received my frame today, there is also a small part of carbon missing in the seattube, it looks like it’s gonna be fine. Pretty happy with the finish overall. Will post pics when build is ready!
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So, my FSA No. 55 headset doesn't seem to fit quite right; the upper bearing is too loose and has play. The original bearings fit better. I also have to use the C-ring and spacers supplied with the Lightcarbon HRB17. Effectively, the only part of the FSA No. 55 bundle I'm actually using is the included expander. A question for everyone who has already built up their LTK: how much clearance do you have between the head tube and the fork at the bottom, and between the head tube and the handlebar dust cap at the top?
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So, my FSA No. 55 headset doesn't seem to fit quite right; the upper bearing is too loose and has play. The original bearings fit better. I also have to use the C-ring and spacers supplied with the Lightcarbon HRB17. Effectively, the only part of the FSA No. 55 bundle I'm actually using is the included expander. A question for everyone who has already built up their LTK: how much clearance do you have between the head tube and the fork at the bottom, and between the head tube and the handlebar dust cap at the top?
Quick note here--the bearings are supposed to be drop-in and not even be tight enough to require a finger press. They should have enough play to center as the steerer is preloaded.
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Okay, so the original LTK bearings are actually a tight fit; I had to press them in with my fingers. The other issue is that I have to use the Lightcarbon C-ring because the other two (FSA No. 55 and the original LTK one) don't fit the headset dust cap. That C-ring, in turn, only fits properly with the original LTK bearings; with the FSA headsets, the Lightcarbon C-ring doesn't seem to seat correctly (it doesn't quite match the bearing's angle or chamfer). I also have two different size specifications for the FSA headsets—I'll take a photo of that later. With the current setup, I'd have a gap of about 2–3 mm above and below the head tube.
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So, my FSA No. 55 headset doesn't seem to fit quite right; the upper bearing is too loose and has play. The original bearings fit better. I also have to use the C-ring and spacers supplied with the Lightcarbon HRB17. Effectively, the only part of the FSA No. 55 bundle I'm actually using is the included expander. A question for everyone who has already built up their LTK: how much clearance do you have between the head tube and the fork at the bottom, and between the head tube and the handlebar dust cap at the top?
That's funny, the expander is the only part of the FSA headset that I can't get to work properly with my setup.
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I got in touch with Alisa.
did you have any update from them?
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I had to (dry) test mounting my panaracer gravelking slick 38 mounted on iw29/ow 38 rims, the combo is 43mm WAM. The front clears with a good margin, the rear (just) touch the di2 cable on the front deraileur and gives a 2-3mm clearance to seat and chainstays.
Going back to my n.ext 34mm on i25 for now. But with a 1x setup and generous clearance conscience 😁 its possible to fit and ride 43mm wam tires on this frame.
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did you have any update from them?
Alisa got in touch with the production manager:
"I've shown the pictures to our production manager to have a check . He confirms it's just the interface connection of 2 pieces of carbon material , not the crack . It formed an imprint by high temperaturer molding . You don't need to worry about it , it won't affect the quality of the frame . You can enjoy your riding !"
That might explain why there are a few frames showing this kind of “crack.” I’m not entirely convinced, though, and I’ll continue to keep an eye on that spot. However, the other pictures in this thread looked much worse.
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Here are a few photos: is the gap too big? I’m currently using the original LTK bearings in the headset, so the fit at the bottom should be perfectly normal. Did you use an additional silver centering ring (see photo) on the steerer tube here? It came with the FSA No. 55 headset. At the top, I just installed the Lightcarbon C-ring, which causes the dust cap to stick out a bit. In the other photos, I’ve captured the specifications of the FSA bearings (bottom: TH MR127 1.5 36°x45° / 5; top: TH MR261A 1.5° ID42 45°x45°).
The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.
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Here are a few photos: is the gap too big? I’m currently using the original LTK bearings in the headset, so the fit at the bottom should be perfectly normal. Did you use an additional silver centering ring (see photo) on the steerer tube here? It came with the FSA No. 55 headset. At the top, I just installed the Lightcarbon C-ring, which causes the dust cap to stick out a bit. In the other photos, I’ve captured the specifications of the FSA bearings (bottom: TH MR127 1.5 36°x45° / 5; top: TH MR261A 1.5° ID42 45°x45°).
The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.
I'd like to help, but it's hard to tell what is going on with these various photos.
But a few things:
1) you don't need the crown race, whether LT-provided or in the FSA no55 set.
2) Did you ask Lightcarbon for FSA-matched dustcap and spacers? That's what I did with my Tavelo bars.
3) The FSA bearings just drop in on both sides. they seem loose, but as @Sakizashi said, they center and fit when preloaded.
4) Have you tried using the FSA bearings and FSA-provided C-ring with the Lightcarbon dustcap and spacers? what happens then? Specifically, when you actually preload this system. Do the gaps close up?
If you could answer some of those questions and maybe label the photos, perhaps we can help figure it out
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Here are a few photos: is the gap too big?
The expander was not yet installed in that state—there was no tension from above via the Ahead cap.
From experience, you want to compress the system before you start wondering if gaps are right / if things rub. If it's just a dry fit / finger tight, there's no way all the bits and pieces are in their final position. Especially if plastic spacers / parts are involved. In fact sometimes it's surprising how much slack you can capture tightening / putting tension on the top cap.
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Is anyone Running XMC Carbon wheels with 26mm IW and 34,8 OW with Conti 5000 STR 32mm? I am wondering if this combination fits the LTK.
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I don’t have this exact combination but currently riding 35mm GP5000 WAM 37.2mm on a set of Tagoola 26/34. No problem at all.
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Is anyone Running XMC Carbon wheels with 26mm IW and 34,8 OW with Conti 5000 STR 32mm? I am wondering if this combination fits the LTK.
I recently posted about my experiment with a i29 o38 rim and panaracer 38c (43mm WAM) this (just) touched the FD but cleared everything else with 2-3mm, so you should easily fit your combo.
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I recently posted about my experiment with a i29 o38 rim and panaracer 38c (43mm WAM) this (just) touched the FD but cleared everything else with 2-3mm, so you should easily fit your combo.
I personally wouldn't ride something that is <4mm, so I wouldn't say that this fits. Way too easy to pick up a little debris and damage the frame.
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I have finished my build on the weekend and i am absolutely happy with the bike.
The paint is white chameleon gloss and carbon raw UD matte (i guess the darker tinted one).
Build went pretty smooth (for the first time) and i would like to thank you all for all the tips and tricks :)
My only Problem war the FSA Headset being slightly to low so that i had to buy microspacers to get clearance between the head tube and FSA plastic bottom cap. So i had to use 2x0.25mm microspacers. If anyone in Germany has the same problem i have 2 more Spacers left and i can send them somewhere :)
To mount the Di2 Battery i used Armaflex 6mm insulation that i had lying around and stuffed the Battery inside the seatpost, seams like a pretty tight fit and will always be easily removable.
Now i am still waiting on some 50mm carbon wheels from serenade but for the meantime i am using some spare DT Swiss wheels (heavy af).
I can also recommend the Bikone T47 bottom bracket that seems to be high quality and is the clostest thing to a one piece BB that i could find for way less money.
The handlebar is ofc a lightcarbon HBR17 in 380x120mm which is absolutely beautiful in my opinion (especially with the 3D printed titanium alloy garmin mount) but there might be lighter options out there. My Bars came in at around 330 gram + garmin mount + Spacers. I also bought the FSA Spacer Adapter to fit the headset which needed some minor adjustments (2 little holes drilled). I don´t know if they have ever used the adapter themselves but out of the box it doesn´t work :D
The Giant Seatpost cover is also a nice upgrade, thanks for the tip :)
Here is the whole Part List:
-LTK 266 Frame in Size XL
-Shimano 105 Di2
-Magene Teo P515 Carbon Crankset
-FSA ACR 55r
-Bikone T47 internal Dub BB
-GP 5000 28mm
-old style Dura Ace Brake Rotor 140/140
-Ryet Carbon saddle
-Look Keo Blade pedals
--> i think thats all :D
Total weight inc. Pedals, bottle cages, pump came in at 7.7 kg, with the serenade wheels (1350 gram vs 1800 DT Swiss) it should be at 7.25 kg
Thanks again to everyone for all the posts on this thread :)
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My small frame arrived. Everything looks quite good, smooth seatpost area with no valleys or “cracks”
My only real complaint so far is the Ritchey saddle clamp, wow it’s terrible. I’ll probably replace it with a real ritchey one. Kind of want to see if a defy seatpost will fit the frame, if I ever see someone riding one on a group ride I’ll ask.
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Hi, I am building up my frame and everything went pretty smoothly so far. Only thing I am not completely understanding yet, did everyone in this sub need to cut their steerer tube? I’ve got a FSA acr no55 LS headset, 40mm of spacers, and a 35mm high stem, and there is still like 25mm of steerer tube coming out of my XXL frame. I was assuming upfront that I wouldn’t need to cut my steerer, because it was an XXL frame and I have pretty high stack. Did everyone in this sub cut their steerer? I am wondering if I am doing something wrong as it’s my first bike build.
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Hi, I am building up my frame and everything went pretty smoothly so far. Only thing I am not completely understanding yet, did everyone in this sub need to cut their steerer tube? I’ve got a FSA acr no55 LS headset, 40mm of spacers, and a 35mm high stem, and there is still like 25mm of steerer tube coming out of my XXL frame. I was assuming upfront that I wouldn’t need to cut my steerer, because it was an XXL frame and I have pretty high stack. Did everyone in this sub cut their steerer? I am wondering if I am doing something wrong as it’s my first bike build.
Yeah everyone cut their steerer. Personally, i did it twice -- once by a friend who has built scores of bikes, and then a second time by my local mechanic once I was sure i wanted it fully slammed.
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Forgive me, for I’m still struggling. I have successfully cut the steerer, but I am not sure whether I have cut it too deep. I have attached a picture of the current situation, wondering whether this would be safe to ride. I am also still not sure about what I need to assemble the fork. I currently have this order:
Proprietary handlebar
Acr adapter
Acr spacers
Acr top cover
Acr split ring
Bearing
Frame
Bearing
Fork
I think I might need another split ring between the bearing & fork am I correct? I have not used the thicker H2630A part, I couldn’t fit it in any of the bearings, and didn’t understand what use it had. It would be nice to be able to find how it works, but there was not a single right tutorial anywhere to explain it to me. I hope one in this chat who has already successfully assembled the bike can make me a guide as to how it works. I’m sorry for asking so many questions, I am quite scared of the dentist so I don’t want it to fail on me while riding.
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Hey all, I’ve got an update. I ended up solving my issue, I didn’t need the split ring, but needed the Fsa supplied crown race labelled h2630a. It didn’t fit any of the other bearings because it is made for the 45 degree 45 degree bearing, which is only included in the FSA ACR no55 Low stack version. The pictures on the internet of that headset have two of the same MR127 36 45 bearings, but with the LS version, there is 1 TH MR127 bearing, and 1 TH MR261A bearing. You need to use the MR127 bearing between fork & frame, and the MR261A bearing on the top, then you use the H2630A part, and then the FSA cover, spacers, (adapter), stem. Now I can finally start the rest of the assembly :))
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Hey all, I’ve got an update. I ended up solving my issue, I didn’t need the split ring, but needed the Fsa supplied crown race labelled h2630a. It didn’t fit any of the other bearings because it is made for the 45 degree 45 degree bearing, which is only included in the FSA ACR no55 Low stack version. The pictures on the internet of that headset have two of the same MR127 36 45 bearings, but with the LS version, there is 1 TH MR127 bearing, and 1 TH MR261A bearing. You need to use the MR127 bearing between fork & frame, and the MR261A bearing on the top, then you use the H2630A part, and then the FSA cover, spacers, (adapter), stem. Now I can finally start the rest of the assembly :))
I'm using an FSA headset and don't have a crown race.
But I'm sure you'll need the C-ring for the top.
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Sakizashi, can you do me a HUGE favor?
I am between sizes on this frame (M & L but leaning towards L). Could you update the build photos in the OP with sizes and links to the posts? Seems like there is only one size L build here unless Im mistaken.
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Sakizashi, can you do me a HUGE favor?
I am between sizes on this frame (M & L but leaning towards L). Could you update the build photos in the OP with sizes and links to the posts? Seems like there is only one size L build here unless Im mistaken.
Done. There are 2 larges in the gallery. @klrdd and @bedamft.
I have finished my build on the weekend and i am absolutely happy with the bike.
Is it OK that I added your bike the gallery? I think its the only complete XL we have pics of.
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Hey all, I’ve got an update. I ended up solving my issue, I didn’t need the split ring, but needed the Fsa supplied crown race labelled h2630a. It didn’t fit any of the other bearings because it is made for the 45 degree 45 degree bearing, which is only included in the FSA ACR no55 Low stack version. The pictures on the internet of that headset have two of the same MR127 36 45 bearings, but with the LS version, there is 1 TH MR127 bearing, and 1 TH MR261A bearing. You need to use the MR127 bearing between fork & frame, and the MR261A bearing on the top, then you use the H2630A part, and then the FSA cover, spacers, (adapter), stem. Now I can finally start the rest of the assembly :))
Just to avoid future confusion here. The assembly sequence is correct.
Part H2630 is called a compression ring (C-Ring) or split ring. You didn't use the crown race.
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Did anyone have trouble screwing in bottle cage screws? Mine were really tight. When I pulled the screw out, it was really hot and the black coating on the threads was rubbed off.
I checked the screws are the right thread and pitch using another bike frame. Maybe my frame's threaded inserts are wrong. Anyone else experience the same issue? My frame is L size, ordered in march.
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Did anyone have trouble screwing in bottle cage screws? Mine were really tight. When I pulled the screw out, it was really hot and the black coating on the threads was rubbed off.
I checked the screws are the right thread and pitch using another bike frame. Maybe my frame's threaded inserts are wrong. Anyone else experience the same issue? My frame is L size, ordered in march.
I had to clean the threads with a tap on one of the inserts for the bottle bolts, looked like some epoxy overrun in the threads.
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Can anyone recommend some lighter thru axles that work with the frame?
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Can anyone recommend some lighter thru axles that work with the frame?
I bought some cheap aluminum axles if you want to go that route.
Muqzi, M12x1.5*117, 12mm TL, 25.2g
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006778954376.html
Axle spacer, ID M12, OD 19mm, thickness 1.0mm, 0.1g
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001259192669.html
Heppe, M12x1.0*168, 15mm threaded length, 35.9g
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004562655677.html
Someone else posted the LTK axle weights as 32g and 46g.
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Just got a pair of new DFS wheels. (for my gravel really)
54 deep, 32.5 internal , 40mm external.
Just had to try a pair of 35mm GP5000 S TR on them. They blow out to 40.7mm on these rims.
And they fit the LongTeng just fine!
I have about 3mm clearance to the front derailleur. 3+ all other places also, so I would say they are about max I would use.
Not bad, and more than I though was possible on this bike! 8)
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Hi all, I placed an order for a LTK266 last week. The quoted delivery time is 35 days. Does anyone have current experience if that is accurate?
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Anyone knows max chainrings? For 1x or 2x shimano
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Anyone knows max chainrings? For 1x or 2x shimano
Alisa told me max chainring for 1by is 55t.
Hi all, I placed an order for a LTK266 last week. The quoted delivery time is 35 days. Does anyone have current experience if that is accurate?
Mine was delivered including custom paint in about 4 weeks to Netherlands. But there are multiple factors that can influence your delivery time.
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Hi all, I placed an order for a LTK266 last week. The quoted delivery time is 35 days. Does anyone have current experience if that is accurate?
19 Days from date I paid to delivered (I'm in West United States)
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My frameset in size XL arrived yesterday. Order placed 30.06, sent 10.07 and arrived 4 days later - speedy process :)
Frame with RD and metal for FD was 835g.
Fork uncut 315g and seatpost incl. metal 150g.
My plan is to build it up with Ultegra Di2, but change cassette and crankset for something lighter. CRW HB1 cockpit 36x140 is on the way, with FSA ACR no55 as suggested from this thread.
What are you guys opinion/experience on wheelset and tire choice for this frame? Modern rims like XMCS/Zen etc. is often 25-26 IW and 34 at its widest, which should result in a 30c tire as the most optimal solution for performance.
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Im building my next bike around XMCS D50CU-36 (50 deep, 36 external, 28 internal) with the raciest 32mms I can find
Will prob mount at 35mm or so, will be so comfy and quick.
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Im building my next bike around XMCS D50CU-36 (50 deep, 36 external, 28 internal) with the raciest 32mms I can find
Will prob mount at 35mm or so, will be so comfy and quick.
I personally like the sound of that, but worth noting it's not ETRTO compliant. This thread here is confusing AF: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,7212.0.html. And i started it...
TLDR: i do not know what rim to use with a GP5000 35C tyre, nor what frame clears it. I expect it should / will measure 38-41mm (40mm day 1 on a wide rim, 41 after it stretches), so i also do not know if 35C frames make sense, because if you can run a 40mm measured tyre, then surely your frame is 40 compliant, not 35C? As stated in the latest Nero show, there's no standard on how to report frame clearance (we should get Xmm+4mm all around, but even that raises the front derailleur clearance question, and yes, i want a front derailleur).
And we dont know how to run 35C tyres on aero optimised rims. Rule of 105 (which in absence of anything better is the standard for speed, afaik, or, put simply, you dont want a light bulb shape as a tyre over a rim) tends to go against ETRTO. Some report that going directly against ETRTO results in a safer ride.
conclusion: confusion.
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W/the front derailleur, unless I'm mistaken aren't they all basically kind of a fixed distance from the center line? That might be the limiting factor.
And yea these wide road tires and wheels are entering new territory. I think ETRTO needs an update. I imagine Chinese wheels are the wild wild East, but IIRC there are Western brands with wide gravel wheels. Like the Roval Terra Aero has 38/27 EW/IW and is recommended for 40mm minimum tire width. I feel like the lower pressures of wider tires may be less amenable to wider internal widths. In any case we are entering uncharted territory with tire sizes and wheel widths......... def need clarity
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I wouldn't worry too much about a 35mm GP5K fitting in this bike. I think the reason why the clearance seems understated to me is that I am running the bike 1x, and I think the limitation you hit first is clearance to the shift cable on a mechanical FD setup. That clearance shouldn't change much, if at all, with wider rims.
Regarding ETRTO, I wouldn't hold my breath. They seem to be a very bureaucratic industry association, focusing on reaching a compromise between rim and tire manufacturers. The reason why the guidelines don't make sense is that it's more a reflection of what the two sides agree to validate and use as references when designing tires or rims rather than a safety standard. High-end bike tires likely have a lot more engineering time put into them than the frames and wheels discussed on this forum, so expecting tire manufacturers to want to take on more cost with no benefit to sales volume seems difficult.
Edit: NVM, I didn't realize people were talking about using a 32mm IW rim with 35mm tires. Yeah that could be tight. Its also...risky. Likely riskier than 28mm tires on a 25mm IW rim, which is usually heavily discouraged to the point where manufacturers backed away from exceptions and started making 29mm and 30mm marked tires.
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I just said that im using Gp5000 35 on a 32 IW rim on my LongTeng.
It fits , but its very tight on the left chainstay. Would be better with a slightly narrower rim.
Measured 40.7 at first. Probably over 41 now.
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+/- 41 measured tire is really wide, but that looked like a tight fit as well. Coming from a rimbrake with 25c tires I wonder if there is any benefit performance-wise with 35c over a 32c or 30c tire. The latter should be much easier to comply with the 105-rule, and a 32 would in many cases stretch to a 34-35 width.
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+/- 41 measured tire is really wide, but that looked like a tight fit as well. Coming from a rimbrake with 25c tires I wonder if there is any benefit performance-wise with 35c over a 32c or 30c tire. The latter should be much easier to comply with the 105-rule, and a 32 would in many cases stretch to a 34-35 width.
2 things to consider:
1. think in terms of measured width, as stated tyre sizes vary across models and brands. The race pirelli in 30C measures as much as the GP5000 32C on the rim of the same IW, for eg. And the 35C GP5000 simply never seems to measure 35mm, unless maaaaybe if you put it on a really narrow rim, which you wouldnt want to do for aerodynamics (if you dont care, then buy a cheaper tyre that will last longer, like the GP5000 all season for eg).
2. your weight and road surface. If you're 80 odd kg and ride on questionable asphalt, go 35C (believe me). If you're 65kg and ride on great asphalt, light dudes say you dont need to.
I just said that im using Gp5000 35 on a 32 IW rim on my LongTeng.
It fits , but its very tight on the left chainstay. Would be better with a slightly narrower rim.
Measured 40.7 at first. Probably over 41 now.
Thank you v much for that datapoint. GP5000 35C measures 40-41mm on a 32mm IW rim. Starting to feel that tyre shouldnt be labelled 35C :D
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I dont think the 35 was meant to be used on a 32 IW rim. But its also 41mm ext and I think quite aero. Not much slower than my other wheels with Pirelli Sl-R 30 on. But sooo much more comfy. And probably faster on rough road and gravel. (Did 4 Hours at 34km/h average on the 35 yesterday, and 2 Hours at 37km/h average the day before. Dont feel that the tires are holding me back.)
The 35s on a wide rim is a really really good combo for bad tarmac, concrete and mixed gravel I think.
I have a bit less room on the left side of my LongTeng with these wheels. Would be perfect if the wheels were dished 1mm more to the right. As long as I dont hit thick mud like yesterday (on the photo) its actually fine and doesnt rub. But a slightly narrower rim would probably be a safer combo if your concerned with your paint.
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I dont think the 35 was meant to be used on a 32 IW rim. But its also 41mm ext and I think quite aero.
Agreed, ETRTO is against you, but also, ETRTO is shit. i'm very confused by the topic of rim selection for a GP5000 in 35C. I dont want a lightbulb, but then it's outside (or very much outside) of ETRTO specs if the profile is aero. And some people on the forum say they feel safer riding that tyre on a wide rim than on one that's ETRTO compliant. And either way, the tyre never measures 35mm, so i'm then unclear on what frame can clear that tyre.
Meanwhile, i'm riding my existing bike, i'll let others figure that out :)
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85kg rider - so I should be considering the 35 then. I wont be riding on mud, but on some occasions light gravel, typical on a gravel section in a road-race.
Performance matter more than comfort, but why not both. I am probably scared from years on racing with 22’ tubulars on 8 bar.
35 would mean going for a wider rim (gravel?). Alot to consider ;D
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The rig is finally finished! It was a really stress-free build. Routing the cables through the head tube and cockpit was easy. I’ll have to hold off on initial ride impressions for now—I want to take this beauty out in nice weather. 😀 It tipped the scales at 6.645 kg in the end (ready to ride, including pedals, bottle cage, and Garmin mount)—that’s a solid weight to work with. Now my own body needs to go on a similar diet; otherwise, the rider and the bike won't really match. 😁 A parts list with weights will follow. The total cost came to around €3,800 (though I reused the crankset, chain, and cassette from my old bike).
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Hello,
I have just ordered this frame in matte black with glossy black accents. I would love to personalize it with my own custom gold logo, similar to the example shown in the photo.
I was wondering if these kinds of logos are typically made from die-cut vinyl using a cutting plotter like a Cricut Joy or Silhouette Cameo?
Vinyl Selection: Which type of vinyl is best suited for this application? Is cast vinyl (e.g., Oracal 751 or 951) the right choice for a bicycle frame?
Design & Application: Are there specific things I should keep in mind during the designing, cutting, and application process?
Aesthetics: Does anyone have experience applying metallic gold or brushed gold vinyl onto a matte black frame?
Protection: Is it recommended to protect the decals afterward with a layer of transparent frame protection film?
Any tips, personal experiences, or photos of similar projects are more than welcome.
Once I receive the XXL frame, I will post some photos of the build process. Perhaps by then, some of you will have additional tips for designing and applying the gold logos.
Thanks in advance!
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Had my first ride on the build today, feels so good coming from a old rim brake Giant Defy. Haven't cut the steerer yet, probably will after a few hundred miles. Seatpost was cut about 4cm
LTK266-D-SL size Small
Drivetrain: Shimano 105 di2 50-34T, 165mm Cranks, 11-36T Cassette
Shimano 105 160mm Brake Rotors
ZTTO T47i Bottom Bracket
Di2 battery holder: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256811959426438.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.72e71802PLxDPY
Enlee Bottle Cages: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256812041137594.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.72e71802PLxDPY
FSA no55R Headset
Quick ZEPHYR-SSL Cockpit 360x90mm - Fizik bar tape : https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/quick-zephyrssl-integrated-handlebar/
Ryet Saddle: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256807350692873.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.47.72e71802PLxDPY
Heppe thru axles
Elite ENT 2.0 wheels 50mm
30c Pirelli tires
Final weight 17.3lbs, 7.8kg
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Hi, I'm currently strongly considering buying the LTK266-D-SL.
I still need to make sure about the quality of these frames.
It looks like it might be a good option, and it's even close in size to my ideal frame (Trek Madone Gen 8 M/L).
Can you advise whether I should order any additional components along with the frame?
A handlebar (which model do you recommend), bottle cages, etc.
I would be grateful for your help!
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Hi, I'm currently strongly considering buying the LTK266-D-SL.
I still need to make sure about the quality of these frames.
It looks like it might be a good option, and it's even close in size to my ideal frame (Trek Madone Gen 8 M/L).
Can you advise whether I should order any additional components along with the frame?
A handlebar (which model do you recommend), bottle cages, etc.
I would be grateful for your help!
Read the first page for handlebar
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Color Pearl White
Frame Size L
Deda Alanera RS 40x100
Pro Stealth Saddle
Crank 170mm
140mm Rear / 160mm Front - Chaser Brake Mount
Elite Leggero Carbon Bootle Cage
C-Bear Bottom Bracket
Faverio Assioma R8000 Pedals
Zipp 303s
Conti 5000 sTR 32mm
Weight ~6,9-7,0 kg
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So I finally got my first 300km in, and I love the bike, it’s nice and fast & light and got good tire clearance. Got it mostly for the tire clearance, then decided I wanted to make it light on a budget aswell. Building it was a little bit difficult, mostly the brake hoses & headset stuff I found really difficult. But it rides well, and I trust it now.
Here is a parts list with prices & weights (if no price it was included with the parts above):
Frame LTK266D SL Ice crack blue €930 950g
Fork LTK266D SL 344g
Seatpost LTK266D SL 158g
Red D1 cranks (2ndhand) €143 347g
Force E1 shifters (2ndhand) €590 407g
Force E1 brakes with hose 294g
Red D1 rd 302g
Force E1 flattop €35 245g
rival Xg1250 10-30 €44 283g
Kore cyclone wheelset €358 1191g
FSA no55r headset €42
gemini rigel 46t €116 99g
michelin power pro 35 €68 786g
brake disc iiipro €21 240g
kalloy uno stem 120mm €17 116g
rxl sl hb 38cm c-c 77mm reach €40 215g ztto t47 dub 14 95
saddle RYET 143 €58 165g
og evkin computer mount €12 25g
spd xt pedals €57 340g
fsa to external routing adapter €20 10g
kocevlo fsa spacers €5 18g
stans 40ml front 50ml rear 90g
cyclami valves €5 12g
Weight 6.8-6.9kg
Frame was a bit heavier than expected, but it’s still good for XXL size and custom paint. Will upgrade the pedals to faveros as soon as I get road shoes. Tested on a bit of gravel already and is faster on cat1 gravel than my gravelbike. 46-30 was a bit too difficult for my local climbs, might have to get a 10-33, was planning on upgrading to Red anyway. All in all I’m pretty happy, similar spec as 8 grand bikes in the bike shop, for about €2700.
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small update on the 35mm GP5000 on my 32mm wide internal rims. The tires expanded a bit, so clearance is not enough with this combination on the left chainstay.
Running a bit more narrow rim like a 24-26mm internal should be fine.
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small update on the 35mm GP5000 on my 32mm wide internal rims. The tires expanded a bit, so clearance is not enough with this combination on the left chainstay.
Running a bit more narrow rim like a 24-26mm internal should be fine.
What was the WAM?
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What was the WAM?
About 41 when warm probably. But tight on the left side only so might be offset dish on the wheel also?
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Damn thats wide! I will prob go w/32s then
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So I finally got my first 300km in, and I love the bike, it’s nice and fast & light and got good tire clearance. Got it mostly for the tire clearance, then decided I wanted to make it light on a budget aswell. Building it was a little bit difficult, mostly the brake hoses & headset stuff I found really difficult. But it rides well, and I trust it now.
Here is a parts list with prices & weights (if no price it was included with the parts above):
Frame LTK266D SL Ice crack blue €930 950g
Fork LTK266D SL 344g
Seatpost LTK266D SL 158g
Red D1 cranks (2ndhand) €143 347g
Force E1 shifters (2ndhand) €590 407g
Force E1 brakes with hose 294g
Red D1 rd 302g
Force E1 flattop €35 245g
rival Xg1250 10-30 €44 283g
Kore cyclone wheelset €358 1191g
FSA no55r headset €42
gemini rigel 46t €116 99g
michelin power pro 35 €68 786g
brake disc iiipro €21 240g
kalloy uno stem 120mm €17 116g
rxl sl hb 38cm c-c 77mm reach €40 215g ztto t47 dub 14 95
saddle RYET 143 €58 165g
og evkin computer mount €12 25g
spd xt pedals €57 340g
fsa to external routing adapter €20 10g
kocevlo fsa spacers €5 18g
stans 40ml front 50ml rear 90g
cyclami valves €5 12g
Weight 6.8-6.9kg
Frame was a bit heavier than expected, but it’s still good for XXL size and custom paint. Will upgrade the pedals to faveros as soon as I get road shoes. Tested on a bit of gravel already and is faster on cat1 gravel than my gravelbike. 46-30 was a bit too difficult for my local climbs, might have to get a 10-33, was planning on upgrading to Red anyway. All in all I’m pretty happy, similar spec as 8 grand bikes in the bike shop, for about €2700.
How did you get your Kore cyclone wheelset so cheap?
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How did you get your Kore cyclone wheelset so cheap?
Aliexpress sale start of june, they were €424,39 listed, got €10 store coupon, €60 aliexpress coupon, €72 vat adjustment, and shipping was €65, because they had some strange way of shipping, a symbolic package via standard aliexpress first and then the real package via DPD. But that was probably too confusing for their customers, they are now using full DDP shipping, which is more expensive. So they’ve become more expensive now, but still a good deal. No flaws with mine.
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As an addition to the previously discussed problems with the headset:
I failed to match the FSA ACR N55 with my Kocevlo bar as well. The Kocevlo spacers do have different pins than tha FSA ACR ones and the Kocevlo compression ring does not fit into the FSA bearing. Therefore I drilled holes in the FSA Compression ring. However I figured out afterwards that the FSA bearing+compression ring is not high enough which results in the spacers touching the frame.
I guess the only choice I have is using the LT top bearing.
Maybe it should be reconsidered to recommend the FSA ACR N55 for this frame in the first post of this thread, since a lot of people have trouble using it with common Chinese bars.
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As an addition to the previously discussed problems with the headset:
I failed to match the FSA ACR N55 with my Kocevlo bar as well. The Kocevlo spacers do have different pins than tha FSA ACR ones and the Kocevlo compression ring does not fit into the FSA bearing. Therefore I drilled holes in the FSA Compression ring. However I figured out afterwards that the FSA bearing+compression ring is not high enough which results in the spacers touching the frame.
I guess the only choice I have is using the LT top bearing.
Maybe it should be reconsidered to recommend the FSA ACR N55 for this frame in the first post of this thread, since a lot of people have trouble using it with common Chinese bars.
I don't think that Kocevelo parts being proprietary and rubbing are an issue with the also proprietary FSA parts. Mixing and matching parts like this is inadvisable without a clear plan and a lot of measuring. FSA is a good option for a lot of people because they make adapters in addition to their own stems and bars, and many Chinese companies will provide an FSA-compatible option, if asked, since FSA headsets are by far the most common ICR headset on the market (though ACROS appears to be gaining ground).
If we suggested common bearing sizes, we are still dealing with proprietary C-ring and headset covers that are designed to match.
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I don't think that Kocevelo parts being proprietary and rubbing are an issue with the also proprietary FSA parts. Mixing and matching parts like this is inadvisable without a clear plan and a lot of measuring. FSA is a good option for a lot of people because they make adapters in addition to their own stems and bars, and many Chinese companies will provide an FSA-compatible option, if asked, since FSA headsets are by far the most common ICR headset on the market (though ACROS appears to be gaining ground).
If we suggested common bearing sizes, we are still dealing with proprietary C-ring and headset covers that are designed to match.
Please enlighten me about the the common standards, but why do the LT bearings seem to work with the Kocevlo, Lightcarbon etc. spacers/compression rings but not the FSA ones? Is there a difference in standard concerning the inner camber of the top bearing? I tried to understand what I was doing when I was ordering Headset and Bars, but eventually gave up, since there is basically zero information about the slight differences there are.
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Please enlighten me about the the common standards, but why do the LT bearings seem to work with the Kocevlo, Lightcarbon etc. spacers/compression rings but not the FSA ones? Is there a difference in standard concerning the inner camber of the top bearing? I tried to understand what I was doing when I was ordering Headset and Bars, but eventually gave up, since there is basically zero information about the slight differences there are.
The fsa top bearing inner camber is 45. The lt bearing inner camber is 36.
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The fsa top bearing inner camber is 45. The lt bearing inner camber is 36.
depends on which FSA bearing set you get. The No 55 LS is a 42mm ID 45 degree chamfer inner bearing for the top. The regular No 55 is a 40mm ID 36 degree chamfer.
As I understood it from Alisa, the No 55 bearing (the regular one) was the one they expected brands to use for their B2B sales.
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Please enlighten me about the the common standards, but why do the LT bearings seem to work with the Kocevlo, Lightcarbon etc. spacers/compression rings but not the FSA ones? Is there a difference in standard concerning the inner camber of the top bearing? I tried to understand what I was doing when I was ordering Headset and Bars, but eventually gave up, since there is basically zero information about the slight differences there are.
Honestly, without having the Kocevelo parts in hand or their design specs, I can't tell you other than that they used the same size by coincidence. Lightcarbon doesn't publish their headset specs, but they do make adapters, including one specifically for the FSA ACR system, and they are responsive enough to help make sure you get the right parts to fit.
FSA also has multiple bearing sets you can buy. Its like BB standards but worse.
The reason why FSA (and Deda) headsets are recommended is that the LTK-266-D SL has an HT made to specs that match their dimensioned reference drawings- and again, based on them being the most common.
There is some logic here, though it's admittedly not perfect.
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Hello everyone, first post on Chinertown!
I’ve built the LTK266 D SL and I’m currently doing my first few kilometers on it. I’ll post more detailed information once I’ve had the chance to ride it a bit more, so I can give more accurate feedback and impressions.
One important thing I noticed: the seatpost clamp bolt absolutely needs to be replaced with a 28–30 mm one. The original bolt sticks out too far and, when tightened to 8 Nm, it presses hard against the internal carbon. In my case, this left a pretty noticeable mark and even caused a small chip in the carbon.
By the way, does anyone happen to know the exact Carbon-Ti thru-axle model that fits this frame? The original thru-axles are really heavy, and I’d like to replace them with something lighter.
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Just some better pictures
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That looks really great Andy, you did a lovely job! How are you finding the grip on those bottle cages?
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Just some better pictures
really nice bike! what bartape is that? looks comfy
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really nice bike! what bartape is that? looks comfy
Fizik Comfortfeel 3.5mm, feels nice!
That looks really great Andy, you did a lovely job! How are you finding the grip on those bottle cages?
They're solid and very lightweight. I did order panda's aero bottles but at this point I'm not sure if they'll show up. :-\
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Can anyone comment on sizing?
I am 175cm and ride a 52cm Tarmac with a 120mm stem
Should I go for small or medium, looking for racy geo, but with the medium I could slam it, correct?
I had a LTK118 before and it was a great bike, trashed it for 30,000KM with no issues
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just got my frame, with custom painting. I am trying to figure out what kind of design they used for the rear derailleur hanger. It seems a sort of unfitting, to me..
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Can anyone comment on sizing?
I am 175cm and ride a 52cm Tarmac with a 120mm stem
Should I go for small or medium, looking for racy geo, but with the medium I could slam it, correct?
I had a LTK118 before and it was a great bike, trashed it for 30,000KM with no issues
This bike comes with a zero-offset post, so there is likely more room to experiment going forward if you want with the Medium. Longer, not lower, is the current meta, and if you can get the stack you need slammed anyway, no reason to buy the small.
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just got my frame, with custom painting. I am trying to figure out what kind of design they used for the rear derailleur hanger. It seems a sort of unfitting, to me..
They use a UDH, so any UDH can be used as a replacement.
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They use a UDH, so any UDH can be used as a replacement.
sure, but it seems to me that the hanger is not fitting the frame. It's kind of cumbersome
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Hey everyone, just wanted to drop some thoughts now that I’ve put 1,000km on the frame.
First of all I want to say I'm really enjoying the bike. Coming from an alu gravel bike it feels super fast ! Climbing is much more easier, I feel like I can hold 35kph easy on a flat road whereas before it felt like I always had to push, now with this bike it feels like it's holding the speed much more.
Bike is also very comfortable, did a little weekend trip with it and even after 140k I felt good.
Only downside I found is that the paint is quite thin, the top tube bag rubbed a little on the top tube and there is some scratch marks.
As far as mechanicals, the frame has been super reliable, no seatpost slippage, no disc rub, no weird creaking or anything. Just had an issue with the crankset but not related to the frame.
Would 100% recommand the frame to anyone, as a first time builder, assembling process was easy, and there is no troubleshooting to do even after set up as it just works.
Little update after 6000km, not much to say as the bike is holding up really well.
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I also had the issue with the FSA Acr top cover rubbing on the frame and had to add 0.5mm spacer. I strongly advise anyone who will build this bike with fsa acr to do the same. But it’s perfectly fine otherwise.
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Hello,
I’ve been riding with the OEM-provided bearings for a while now with no apparent issues. The bike has been a joy to ride.
I recently decided to switch up my handlebar setup and figured it’d be a good time to upgrade the bearings as well. Based on the comments in this thread, I believe this is the correct FSA model to use as a replacement:
https://www.jensonusa.com/full-speed-ahead-acr-no-55r-headset (https://www.jensonusa.com/full-speed-ahead-acr-no-55r-headset)
Could anyone who has bought the FSA bearing confirm that this is the correct one?
TIA!
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Hello,
I’ve been riding with the OEM-provided bearings for a while now with no apparent issues. The bike has been a joy to ride.
I recently decided to switch up my handlebar setup and figured it’d be a good time to upgrade the bearings as well. Based on the comments in this thread, I believe this is the correct FSA model to use as a replacement:
https://www.jensonusa.com/full-speed-ahead-acr-no-55r-headset (https://www.jensonusa.com/full-speed-ahead-acr-no-55r-headset)
Could anyone who has bought the FSA bearing confirm that this is the correct one?
TIA!
Yes this is the one I used.
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I've been riding the frame with the Tavelo Avro handlebars - which I do like - however, I'd like to reduce the reach maybe 10mm. I'm considering going separate bar/stem for this.
What are people using that can do cable routing through the headset, stem/handlebar and headset cover wise?
Ideally I'd like a handlebar with channels for the hydraulic lines rather than them going in at the shifters and out through a hole where the stem clamps.
I've seen some people recommend the balugoe handlebars, which while they don't have this channel for the hoses, have a hole before they meet the stem at the middle so the cables could be run under the stem. They look nice too with the flat tops.
In terms of the stem, I like the look of the FSA SMR but if there is a nicer chinertown approved option that people like to do for, I'm all ears. Main goal here is for the cables to discretely run under the stem and into the hole of the top cover.
I did buy the 55r headset from FSA when I assembled the bike, if that helps.
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This bike comes with a zero-offset post, so there is likely more room to experiment going forward if you want with the Medium. Longer, not lower, is the current meta, and if you can get the stack you need slammed anyway, no reason to buy the small.
I am worried about stand over and not getting enough seat post out.
I owned a first gen Scott Foil in medium, that bike always felt big, I ride caads and tarmacs in 52cm, but I need some spacers on those, reach seems pretty good with a 120mm stem, I race cat 2 but don't really want an aero bike
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Can anyone comment on sizing?
I am 175cm and ride a 52cm Tarmac with a 120mm stem
Should I go for small or medium, looking for racy geo, but with the medium I could slam it, correct?
I had a LTK118 before and it was a great bike, trashed it for 30,000KM with no issues
Ha, I am your height and ordered a size L. I am currently riding a size 54 bike with a ~140mm stem and I want a less aggressive fit.
Whether or not you can slam it depends on your fit, stem angle etc. I am looking to slam mine with a 6 degree stem and riser drop bars.
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Ha, I am your height and ordered a size L. I am currently riding a size 54 bike with a ~140mm stem and I want a less aggressive fit.
Whether or not you can slam it depends on your fit, stem angle etc. I am looking to slam mine with a 6 degree stem and riser drop bars.
Is your seat slammed all the way forward? you must have long arms haha, how much seat post is showing on yours?
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Is your seat slammed all the way forward? you must have long arms haha, how much seat post is showing on yours?
It is pretty far forward but not all the way. I do have long arms. Saddle height was 70cm but I just raised it to about 72cm. I think if I can get my hand position a little higher and further forward. I just realized standover height might be an issue though.....
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I am in touch with Alisa regarding the frame purchase. She suggested their new HB266 handlebar, which is lighter than the other models. The top cover and the fork retaining ring are aluminun and other parts are plastic.
It should cost around $100. Here is the link to the geometry specs: https://www.ltbikes.com/index/products/view/id/441.html
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It is pretty far forward but not all the way. I do have long arms. Saddle height was 70cm but I just raised it to about 72cm. I think if I can get my hand position a little higher and further forward. I just realized standover height might be an issue though.....
My saddle height is 70cm, I have about a 31.5 inseam, is that close to you? Do you have issues with stand over height?
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I got the HB266 handlebar with my gravel frame from mondince. I have two points to add, the drop is actually 110, they have incorrect dimension measured on drawing - that plus for me. Second more pressing issue/niggle is that the top part of stem is not perpendicular to the fork steerer, so you cannot add any more spacers on top of it, before you commit to the cut. The preload screw, then sit not fully flush with top cap. It´s at a slight angle.
Besides these two things, the bars feel really nice and also the cable routing was possible to do without any tools.
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I got the HB266 handlebar with my gravel frame from mondince. I have two points to add, the drop is actually 110, they have incorrect dimension measured on drawing - that plus for me. Second more pressing issue/niggle is that the top part of stem is not perpendicular to the fork steerer, so you cannot add any more spacers on top of it, before you commit to the cut. The preload screw, then sit not fully flush with top cap. It´s at a slight angle.
Besides these two things, the bars feel really nice and also the cable routing was possible to do without any tools.
Thanks for the valuable insights, especially regarding the drop and the top cap angle! Do you happen to have any front-facing photos of the handlebar installed? I'd love to see how it looks mounted.
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i will send photos later,
but here are the handlebars mounted on bike from Italian brand Cicli Galetti.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1Jd1yfsgnb/
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My saddle height is 70cm, I have about a 31.5 inseam, is that close to you? Do you have issues with stand over height?
Not on my current bike, but I have a ~32 inseam and the 266 standover height in size L with 32-35c tires gets damn close. Will be really interesting getting on the bike on the trainer. I do know how to track stand so that might come back into play
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My saddle height is 70cm, I have about a 31.5 inseam, is that close to you? Do you have issues with stand over height?
just want to jump in here to say I would definitely caution against an L frame if you're 175 cm with an 80cm inseam and 70cm saddle height. It sounds like @Takiyaki has quite unique proportions, so the advice might not transfer even if you're the same height. Size L is a standard 56 climby race frame, very close in measurements to the current supersix evo or bmc teammachine slr01 (just slightly shorter reach).
If you've been on a 52 tarmac, you're going to be adding ~37mm of frame stack, ~8mm frame reach, ~18mm to the Front-Center, and if i'm reading this correctly, you'd be going from a seat tube length of 456mm to 520mm (granted, top tube slope is different, but still).
So alongside the standover issue, you're just not going to have much exposed seatpost compared to what you had before, and the bike is already pretty stiff feeling.
Size M/54 might be the safer bet if you're looking to size up. Jumping 2 sizes might be a risky prop. and this bike is great, dont want you to regret it!
(I'm on 183cm, 88cm inseam (~34.5in), on a size L with 77cm saddle height and slammed 130mm+ stem..somewhat long arms and flexible, comfortable in a long and low position)
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Long Term Long Teng update:
Currently at 4,970KM, will surpass 5000KM after a short afternoon spin tomorrow.
No problems at all with the bike since I built it up. I love it.
A few things I have changed:
Swapped to an ENVE Selle Italia Boost SLR 130, which fits me better and which, when slammed forward, is helping me rotate into and sustain the aero hoods position.
Swapped the 35mm Michelin Pro5 (37mm WAM) tires for 32mm Continental GP5000 S TR (33mm WAM). The fat tires were comfy and fast, but I am happy to drop the weight ~150g, and I think the GPs fit the bike better without much compromise. I am back on shit roads in New England, though, so I don't think I can afford to go skinnier. I think, despite the generous tire clearance, that the bike probably fits 30mm tires best--is designed around 28-30mm. I was getting toe overlap on the 35mm Michelins, and I think for big tires a slightly larger BB drop would be welcome.
I just got 165 cranks but haven't put them on yet. I'm on 170 currently but want to keep optimizing the trendy progressive fit and also open up the hip a bit as I'm dealing with some chronic hip mobility issues on one side from an old hip flexor injury on the squash court some 8 years ago :P
Attaching a picture of the current setup.
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Sakizaki- when you mention the clearance in the OP, is that on either side or total?
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Sakizaki- when you mention the clearance in the OP, is that on either side or total?
I can fit that size hex key between the frame and the tire, checked at both the seat and chainstays.
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I can fit that size hex key between the frame and the tire, checked at both the seat and chainstays.
OK wow! Thanks for confirming
Edit- what's the clearance in front?
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Long Term Long Teng update:
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Swapped the 35mm Michelin Pro5 (37mm WAM) tires for 32mm
...
Do you know the internal width of your rims? I'm tempted to try the Michelins, currently running Vittora N.EXT 34mm (25 WAM) on i23 rims but i'd prefer not to go any wider. Thinking of going for the 32mm michelins to keep the WAM down.
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Do you know the internal width of your rims? I'm tempted to try the Michelins, currently running Vittora N.EXT 34mm (25 WAM) on i23 rims but i'd prefer not to go any wider. Thinking of going for the 32mm michelins to keep the WAM down.
My 9velo rims have an IW of 24mm. Sticking w the 32s is probably a good bet. I liked the tires a lot-- affordable and resilient.
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This frame has been in the wild for a while, i got my local LLM to summarize the thread. For those interested, see attached.
Expect mistakes, it's one shot, 200k tokens. I read the whole thing, it feels correct enough.
pi --session 01a0908e-76fb-7730-abbd-b2911fbf1a52
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This frame has been in the wild for a while, i got my local LLM to summarize the thread. For those interested, see attached.
Expect mistakes, it's one shot, 200k tokens. I read the whole thing, it feels correct enough.
pi --session 01a0908e-76fb-7730-abbd-b2911fbf1a52
generally reads pretty correct!
*aero*, *high-stack*, and *40–41 mm* tire clearance - quite the ask for your client!
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generally reads pretty correct!
*aero*, *high-stack*, and *40–41 mm* tire clearance - quite the ask for your client!
I know, i'm the client :D I'm rather tall, rather heavy, and my friends tend to be similar more often than not. Now that the GP5000 in 35C is out, it's only a matter of time until tall people ride that by default. I have friends who 2y ago were making fun of my tires, now they run the same acting like it's the most natural thing in the world. On bike handling, note to myself and the world, one of the best descenders i know is on a Caledonia with a full chimney of spacers, so my concern around whether a high stack bike works downhill is probably overblown. --> 40-41mm clearance, high stack, and aero because i'm over 40kmh a lot of the time, like a lot a lot.
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Thanks
I was actually asking about deciding between the small and medium, not large! The small seemed too small at 175cm, I think the medium is good, just adding some reach compared to my past bikes
just want to jump in here to say I would definitely caution against an L frame if you're 175 cm with an 80cm inseam and 70cm saddle height. It sounds like @Takiyaki has quite unique proportions, so the advice might not transfer even if you're the same height. Size L is a standard 56 climby race frame, very close in measurements to the current supersix evo or bmc teammachine slr01 (just slightly shorter reach).
If you've been on a 52 tarmac, you're going to be adding ~37mm of frame stack, ~8mm frame reach, ~18mm to the Front-Center, and if i'm reading this correctly, you'd be going from a seat tube length of 456mm to 520mm (granted, top tube slope is different, but still).
So alongside the standover issue, you're just not going to have much exposed seatpost compared to what you had before, and the bike is already pretty stiff feeling.
Size M/54 might be the safer bet if you're looking to size up. Jumping 2 sizes might be a risky prop. and this bike is great, dont want you to regret it!
(I'm on 183cm, 88cm inseam (~34.5in), on a size L with 77cm saddle height and slammed 130mm+ stem..somewhat long arms and flexible, comfortable in a long and low position)
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OK wow! Thanks for confirming
Edit- what's the clearance in front?
Front clearance is the same. In my mind this bike is basically a giant TCR with 37mm of tire clearance.
I try really hard to avoid spamming the thread with how good this bike is, but in terms of weight and ride feel, I think it’s the rare sub $1K open mold frame as good thats as good as a branded frame. Unfortunately, it’s a bit like the TCR and Aethos: it looks dated from an aero perspective which is likely a reason this frame isnt more popular. There are also the seatpost binder and other issues documented.
I think it’s a bit telling that the Mondinice aero bike didnt seem to work out as well. Whatever they did developing this bike seemed to right thing vs. that one.
Without changing the profiles of the tubes too much in an effort to build on what they did right here, I would like to see a more hourglass + deeper HT resulting in a longer reach by 1-2cm and this thing could look the part of a Noah Fast 3.0 competitor—though it would still be lacking real aero credentials. That said, I would also love to see more BB drop, but that might be messing with the formula too much.
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and lower bottle cage mounts....more aero and way better looking... ;)
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My build is now finished, so here are the final details.
I’ve made a few changes since my original post and I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. It’s currently sitting at around 6.6kg.
Final spec:
* LTK266-D-SL – Large
* Shimano Ultegra R8100 Di2
* 165mm carbon crank
* ENST 50mm carbon wheels
* T4 Ultra integrated carbon riser bar
* Lightweight RYET carbon saddle
* 2 × 9g carbon bottle cages
* Titanium thru axles
* Aero computer mount
* Superstar Components brake pads
* Chaser 160mm rotors
Now the build is finished, I’m actually going to sell it so I can start another one. I really enjoy building these bikes, probably more than I should! If anyone is interested in a fully built bike then drop me a message.
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Front clearance is the same. In my mind this bike is basically a giant TCR with 37mm of tire clearance.
I try really hard to avoid spamming the thread with how good this bike is, but in terms of weight and ride feel, I think it’s the rare sub $1K open mold frame as good thats as good as a branded frame. Unfortunately, it’s a bit like the TCR and Aethos: it looks dated from an aero perspective which is likely a reason this frame isnt more popular. There are also the seatpost binder and other issues documented.
I think it’s a bit telling that the Mondinice aero bike didnt seem to work out as well. Whatever they did developing this bike seemed to right thing vs. that one.
Without changing the profiles of the tubes too much in an effort to build on what they did right here, I would like to see a more hourglass + deeper HT resulting in a longer reach by 1-2cm and this thing could look the part of a Noah Fast 3.0 competitor—though it would still be lacking real aero credentials. That said, I would also love to see more BB drop, but that might be messing with the formula too much.
Truthfully, for the aero stuff Im debating 3D printing elements like the deeper headtube and rear wheel wraparound deal. I might extend the fork profile as well. If it bears any fruit in testing I will share the .STL files. Truthfully I don't know if it will make a big difference but it will be a fun project. This bike ticks all the other boxes for me. I don't mind the continued insight.
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just want to jump in here to say I would definitely caution against an L frame if you're 175 cm with an 80cm inseam and 70cm saddle height. It sounds like @Takiyaki has quite unique proportions, so the advice might not transfer even if you're the same height. Size L is a standard 56 climby race frame, very close in measurements to the current supersix evo or bmc teammachine slr01 (just slightly shorter reach).
If you've been on a 52 tarmac, you're going to be adding ~37mm of frame stack, ~8mm frame reach, ~18mm to the Front-Center, and if i'm reading this correctly, you'd be going from a seat tube length of 456mm to 520mm (granted, top tube slope is different, but still).
So alongside the standover issue, you're just not going to have much exposed seatpost compared to what you had before, and the bike is already pretty stiff feeling.
Size M/54 might be the safer bet if you're looking to size up. Jumping 2 sizes might be a risky prop. and this bike is great, dont want you to regret it!
(I'm on 183cm, 88cm inseam (~34.5in), on a size L with 77cm saddle height and slammed 130mm+ stem..somewhat long arms and flexible, comfortable in a long and low position)
do you think the medium will fit me will with enough seat post and stand over at my height (175cm with 31.5 inseam)
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Do you know the internal width of your rims? I'm tempted to try the Michelins, currently running Vittora N.EXT 34mm (25 WAM) on i23 rims but i'd prefer not to go any wider. Thinking of going for the 32mm michelins to keep the WAM down.
Running 35 Michelins on 24.2 iw, fits fine, even in mud & gravel. They measure about 36-36.5.
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do you think the medium will fit me will with enough seat post and stand over at my height (175cm with 31.5 inseam)
I think you'll be alright, but maybe someone with an M can chime in and give an actual standover measurement with ~ your desired tire size?
With the M, you're getting a 30mm shorter seat tube relative to L (490mm vs 520mm), so that should help!
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do you think the medium will fit me will with enough seat post and stand over at my height (175cm with 31.5 inseam)
It should be fine. My size M w/ 35mm Conti Terra Speeds tires on 25mm IW rims is ~30in at the seatpost and ~31in HT as measured from the top of the TT to the ground.
Assuming you wear shoes, you should have no problem standing flat-footed over the bike. I am quite a bit shorter, with a ~29in inseam, and I have no issues with standover, though it's a bit snug to stand flat-footed; shoes + cleats make it OK.