Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: FabioZang on February 01, 2024, 01:34:49 AM
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There is currently no detailed information available about this frame, except for an official promotional video.
Based on the content of the video, I can provide a brief description of the frame's features:
- It features a downtube storage design with a magnetic and buckle cover plate.
- It has a T47 bottom bracket, and support for UDH.
- The frame is designed to accommodate tires of 50c+ width both in the front and rear, with the fork and rear dropout widths measuring at least 60mm+.
- It has a flat mount disc brake mount compatible with 140/160mm rotors.
- The frame weight for size M (52) is 1200g (including the storage compartment cover plate and all accessories), while the fork weight is 460g (uncut).
Images and geometry tables are provided below.
In my personal opinion, the overall design of this bike is quite good, but the geometry seems to be a major drawback. It appears that the designer simply extended the overall reach without making further adjustments to match the rider's riding position. Additionally, I believe that using 140/160mm flat mount disc brakes with such a large tire clearance design may be somewhat outdated.
Apart from these points, I think it is a decent frame. What do you all think?
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
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Yet another one where the geo doesn't match the tire clearance except in the small sizes. HTA / STA and FC / WB are garbage in the larger sizes.
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Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
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What I really want to see is one of these types of frames with bigger brake rotor options and a suspension-corrected fork/geometry that works well with 40-50mm travel. I need a very upright cockpit to prevent drop bars from destroying my already damaged spine, and would like something at the leading edge of current trail-capable gravel bikes without crossing over into an XC flat bar hardtail.
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Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
Exactly.
73.2 deg of seat tube angle in size 540 ... the trend in both road and mtb is going in the 75-78 deg range now (and something like 70.5-71-71.5 deg in the steerer), so I would not even consider buying another of these 73-73.5 deg (SA) / 72 deg (HA) frames. It is just super obsolete in my opinion. Having a more upright seat tube brings your weight to the front to gain traction, improves efficiency and, in my case, reduces lower back pain (confirmed with a bikefit). In fact, this is the direction I went with my titanium frame, and I think the geo I designed for that bike is sublime.
Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
I just don't get this, honestly, but I acknowledge it is becoming super popular. 50mm tires is sluggish as hell. For bikepacking and doing lots of off-road it is a blessing because it just eats anything, absorbs anything. But if you want something road-oriented, aero maybe? 50mm tires just brights the opposite. For racing I would honestly go in the direction of CX frames/wheels ... something around 30-40mm tires, maybe more knobby if the terrain is very muddy/broken.
What I really want to see is one of these types of frames with bigger brake rotor options and a suspension-corrected fork/geometry that works well with 40-50mm travel. I need a very upright cockpit to prevent drop bars from destroying my already damaged spine, and would like something at the leading edge of current trail-capable gravel bikes without crossing over into an XC flat bar hardtail.
Why not something like the Lexon reverse and building a monstercross with it? Cheap as hell, can take up to a 40T chainring, 70.5 deg steerer (even more vertical if you take lets say a Rockshox SID, a Fox 32 and reduce the travel to 80mm, or a lauf trail racer ... also would bring the seat tube angle up). I have that frame (and I think it is excellent) and if it was not for the 3 gravel frames I already have ( ::) ) I would go for a monstercross conversion. I think it is really asking for it
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Not that I'm in the market for a gravel frame as I just built one up, are you saying its too race oriented geometry wise? I've been on the hunt for a gravel race bike that clears 50s.
Slacker seat angle, steeper heat tube angle, and shorter WB / FC is not 'racy', it's slow, and also dangerous on anything chunky, steep or technical. Of course that doesn't stop the industry marketing machine and associated media from calling it 'racy'.
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Except the head angle i find too steep, 70° or 71 for tall sizes will be a better sweet spot between stability and agility, this bike is more or less the same what a famous US graveler will ride this year https://www.instagram.com/p/C2dIgQcOa0w/
For me the tideace is made for rolling fast, thus you don't want Downcountry'esque seat angle and 140-160 is enough for the intented use.
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Except the head angle i find too steep, 70° or 71 for tall sizes will be a better sweet spot between stability and agility, this bike is more or less the same what a famous US graveler will ride this year https://www.instagram.com/p/C2dIgQcOa0w/
For me the tideace is made for rolling fast, thus you don't want Downcountry'esque seat angle and 140-160 is enough for the intented use.
That bike was launched nearly 2 years ago and it's still not available to anyone except their increasingly large crop of sponsored riders. In fact beside Tri frames, I don't think any Felt bikes are available anywhere outside North America ...
It was claimed they were reorganizing after they were purchased from Rossignol by Pierer ... but that's, again, almost 2 years ago.
Also that Breed Carbon has the worst cable routing I've ever seen. Even worse than the Exploro.
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Apart from these points, I think it is a decent frame. What do you all think?
it seems that the gemoetry is nearly the same like the BMC Kaius
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Type：Gravel Frame
Frame Model: GV201
Fork Model: GV-FK201
Weave: UD
Thru axle Rear Spacing: 142*12mm
Material: Full Carbon
Max Tire Size: 700*50C/27.5er*2.1"
Frame Weight: 1150+/-40g(52cm)
Fork Weight: 470+/-15g
Headtube-Top: 1-1/2"
Headtube-Down: 1-1/2"
BB: T47(85.5mm)
Available sizes: 49/52/54/56/58cm
Finish: Clear coating/matte
Thanks for all interesting of our molds.
Attached more details for new mold Gravel Frame GV201.
Any other details or want to make the order.
Feel free to contact us.
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
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I think its closest to the Trek Checkpoint SL / SLR in terms of geometry comparison.
I pretty much disagree with every comment above regarding geometry. Its more progressive and forward leaning than a lot of other open molds, but the latest Checkpoint geo was pretty well received. This one will be a little sharper due to the higher offset fork and the BB drop is more consistent across sizes so it might feel a little more dart-y in the larger sizes. However a Checkpoint geometry without the isospeed + udh feels like a win too. Stack and reach should be pretty close to the same because Trek includes their headset cover in their geometry and this bike appears not to.
Since we are all critics, i think working the design a bit to squeeze out a couple mm of clearance in the rear would have been nice as it would have allowed for 650bx2.2 / larger 2.1s to fit more comfortably in the frame.
Overall, this would be a top candidate if i was in the market for a gravel bike.
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Opinions are like butts, everyone has their one ;)
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I think the geo, looks a lot like the canyon Grizl. wich should be great for me.
I did put the geo online on:
https://bikeinsights.com/bikes/660fe85e11653c00217d7337-tantan-cycling-seraph-gr201
seems a aggressive shape with a lot of clearance
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aifpSg8Nw4
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Despite a different design, the geo seems very similar to a hakka. Too bad about that significant weight penalty.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn77CwxXuxE
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I've gone for one, I'm 182cm and when comparing to my other bikes, I need to run a 90mm stem for the same reach on a size 54 (I normally run 110mm).
I've gone for a pretty out there dark grey glitter paintjob (hey, it's gravel) with some wheels from 'Peter' and an ltwoo e-gr groupset. Magene PM crankset with an alugear 1X (orange) chainring. Will post the full build when everything arrives.
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Nice, good luck with the build. Just fyi, magene are now saying that the base pm is not compatible with t47 bb's.
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Nice, good luck with the build. Just fyi, magene are now saying that the base pm is not compatible with t47 bb's.
Oh, that's quite the mic drop. Why?
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Yeah, it's weird, see here:
https://www.magene.com/en/power-meters/41-pes-p505-base-power-meter.html
In fact, I see they are now claiming both T 47 and BB386 are incompatible.
From googling a bit, it seems like an issue with certain frames perhaps?
https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16gf0d9/comment/k30acx3/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
(https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/16gf0d9/comment/k30acx3/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)
https://www.reddit.com/r/TrekBikes/comments/16geyx8/will_the_magene_power_meter_pesp505_base_fit_the/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/TrekBikes/comments/16geyx8/will_the_magene_power_meter_pesp505_base_fit_the/)
When I first saw this I also found some cases of successful installation nonetheless. I was looking into it because I have a gravel frame on the way with a T47 and was planning on using my PM with it. Hopefully it will work anyway.
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let's keep each other updated.
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Full bicycle picture attached.
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Mine has been painted and ready for shipping.
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wow that looks spot on,
Ordered 2 weeks ago size 56 white, no mounts on the fork
eta was mid July
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wow that looks spot on,
Ordered 2 weeks ago size 56 white, no mounts on the fork
eta was mid July
Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
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Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
It is okay, you can contact eddy.
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
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Interesting. I asked if I could have no fork mounts, they could only offer to use rubber plugs instead. Anyway, I've order low profile titanium bolts that should look a bit better.
Nice idea. Any delivery date yet?
Whats your plan for stem/handlebar? The provided intergrated headset cover looks hard to match stem to neatly
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It's been dispatched. I went for a Lexon flared bar. I've got so many different spacers from various builds I hoping I can make it work. The Lexon bars also came with a good assortment.
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It's been dispatched. I went for a Lexon flared bar. I've got so many different spacers from various builds I hoping I can make it work. The Lexon bars also came with a good assortment.
Very interested in this frame - good tire clearance, love the frame pocket, good geometry (for me). When you get it I'd love to see what they include with it. What bottom bracket are you putting into it? Also (if I can request), I'd love to see a measurement of the non-drive side crank clearance for a crank arm powermeter. Trying to make sure a 4iii fits:
https://www2023-assets.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/manuals-guides/precision-3/p3-clearance.pdf
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I'll do a youtube video of the build.
I've gone for a ZTTO T47 BB. No idea if it'll be any good or not.
Alugear chainring and Magene P505 (hopefully it fits). Ltwoo e-gr groupset with an out of spec 11-50 ZTTO cassette (currently installed on a Ribble CGR).
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I'll do a youtube video of the build.
I've gone for a ZTTO T47 BB. No idea if it'll be any good or not.
Alugear chainring and Magene P505 (hopefully it fits). Ltwoo e-gr groupset with an out of spec 11-50 ZTTO cassette (currently installed on a Ribble CGR).
I'll be waiting for that! interested to see the headset topcap for integrated cable routing as it looks like it will need to be changed
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@gloscherrybomb
Infact I'm sure im going to need to change headset/topcap
Can you confirm od of the topcap when you receive yours plz
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I'll be waiting for that! interested to see the headset topcap for integrated cable routing as it looks like it will need to be changed
Do you have more pics, are you pleased with it
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@jb3112
thats a picture i found online, still waiting for mine to be produced
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ykfbiyrt-qM
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Yet another one where the geo doesn't match the tire clearance except in the small sizes. HTA / STA and FC / WB are garbage in the larger sizes.
What frame would you recomend
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Build in progress. Some quick fire notes before a much more detailed review post-build:
Good:
- Paint job is immaculate. Really impressed
- Shipping was quick considering it was custom
- overall laypup quality seems very good from what you can see internally
Bad:
- They didn't include the downtube storage toolkit bag which was expected. Have contacted them, so hopefully they can send it.
- The hole for the rear thu-axle is nor circular or at all a close fit for the thru-axle. It does seem to clamp down well and not move, so maybe not an issue in-use
- The various mounting bolts are crazy heavy. I've swapped them all out for practically weightless rubber bungs or titanium bolts
- I had to space out the magene P505 by 2mm, not because it fouled the frame (I might have needed a really thin spacer) but because my 46T chainring fouled the chainstay. 46T isn't massive for a 1X, so that's worth bearing in mind.
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Build in progress. Some quick fire notes before a much more detailed review post-build:
Good:
- Paint job is immaculate. Really impressed
- Shipping was quick considering it was custom
- overall laypup quality seems very good from what you can see internally
Bad:
- They didn't include the downtube storage toolkit bag which was expected. Have contacted them, so hopefully they can send it.
- The hole for the rear thu-axle is nor circular or at all a close fit for the thru-axle. It does seem to clamp down well and not move, so maybe not an issue in-use
- The various mounting bolts are crazy heavy. I've swapped them all out for practically weightless rubber bungs or titanium bolts
- I had to space out the magene P505 by 2mm, not because it fouled the frame (I might have needed a really thin spacer) but because my 46T chainring fouled the chainstay. 46T isn't massive for a 1X, so that's worth bearing in mind.
Paint looks great. When you do your buildup I'd love to see clearance of the crank on the non drive side (mentioned it above) for a crank PM. Also, what is the steerer tube diameter? I was told 52mm, which is definitely not it.
The thru axle hole being large isn't a good thing. That should be a pretty tight tolerance hole. What diameter is the hole?
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Someone already tried to fit in 29.2.25 tires? i think that would be a really fast and robust setup for racing.
Could someone try to fit it in en show how it runs then?
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Paint looks great. When you do your buildup I'd love to see clearance of the crank on the non drive side (mentioned it above) for a crank PM. Also, what is the steerer tube diameter? I was told 52mm, which is definitely not it.
The thru axle hole being large isn't a good thing. That should be a pretty tight tolerance hole. What diameter is the hole?
I'll try to answer all of your questions later today. The steerer tube is standard 28.6.
There's a short video attached to this post of the complete build minus chain. Full weight including pedals, garmin, etc 8.6kg which I think is very reasonable. 8.4kg with chain, without pedals and garmin.
Full build list:
- Tideace Noah custom paint
- Wheels from Peter (search forum). Custom spec - 24mm internal hooked wavy rims, pillar wing spokes, ratchet style hub
- Lexon UNOX gravel handlebar
- Magene P505 power meter spider/cranks (167.5mm)
- Alugear narrow/wide chainring (46T)
- LTWOO e-gr groupset
- ZTTO 11-50T cassette
- ZTTO T47 BB
- RYET ultralight saddle
- Panaracer gravelking 43mm tyres
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Someone already tried to fit in 29.2.25 tires? i think that would be a really fast and robust setup for racing.
Could someone try to fit it in en show how it runs then?
I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
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I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
Pictures in the first post here show measurements of the clearance. Smallest is 66mm. With reasonable clearance (6mm a side?) something like 2.1" should fit comfortably. 2.2" may be stretching it a bit. It would be good to see what you get in your measurements, though.
BTW, those wheels are awesome. Oh, and where did you get those bungs?
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very nice work gloscherrybomb...
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Pictures in the first post here show measurements of the clearance. Smallest is 66mm. With reasonable clearance (6mm a side?) something like 2.1" should fit comfortably. 2.2" may be stretching it a bit. It would be good to see what you get in your measurements, though.
BTW, those wheels are awesome. Oh, and where did you get those bungs?
Thanks. A great service from Peter being able to spec everything as you wish. If there is one thing, I would have liked a wider internal rim width (maybe a 27/28) but they are still tremendous value.
Frame plugs: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/ (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/)
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Thanks. A great service from Peter being able to spec everything as you wish. If there is one thing, I would have liked a wider internal rim width (maybe a 27/28) but they are still tremendous value.
Frame plugs: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/ (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/)
Evidently Tideace really likes your bike - https://tideacebike.com/blogs/news/why-tideacebike-carbon-fiber-bicycle-frame-is-the-best-choice
BTW, if you get a chance to measure that non drive side clearance I'd appreciate it!
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All clearly written by chatgpt
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Attached
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Eddy kindly sent me this measurement from CAD for the non drive side clearance. It's tighter than my CFR696, but it at least *looks* like a crank based PM fits. Gloss or Osh, if you get a chance to confirm this with a real measurement it would be greatly appreciated.
https://imgur.com/a/Eah0vB7
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11mm clearance Magene P505
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Received frame last week. Took abit longer than expected but once sent arrived very fast to Australia No duty payable
paint is very nice, as is the overall finish
Its a heavyweight Size 56 without front derailleur mount 1375g
Hopfully get it built up shortly
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Thanks for the feedback from Jonny.
INCREDIBLE gravel frame!
If you're reading this, you're probably mid-way through the same process I went through - trying to work out whether or not buying a direct-from-China bike frame, is something you're going to regret - can it really be as good as a "big bike manufacturer?".
Well I've had my NOAH for a month now and so far, so fantastic. I am about 180cm / 74kg and I went for the 54. I am finding the fit as good as any bike I've ever owned. The aero handlebars that Tideace make are brilliant too. I love the flat section on the tops and the drops are the comfiest - and I've tried quite the selection.
Craziest bit - I entered a UK gravel event on 3rd August 2024 and out of 165 riders, the NOAH was the fastest bike by about 15 mins. THE FASTEST. Read that again.
I obviously can't recommend it enough - if you've read this far, you should buy it, it's BRILLIANT.
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Nice. I'm racing mine at the British Gravel Champs in 2 weeks time. I'll let you know if it's the bike or the rider ;D
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I'm currently seeing this frame and advice from Tideace is 49cm size (1m71). Is that correct ?
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
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Another one
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Another
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
How's clearance? Especially at the rear. Will a 2.1" fit? Will a 2.1" fit with an FD? Thundero 48 and FD? 2.2 race king fit on the front?
I'm considering this in the 54 for a rider I'm sponsoring. Other option is Liv Devote ... which has better geo and should have better build quality - but I'd have to swap out 80% of the kit to get the right setup for her.
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It will depend what they blow up to. These thundero measure 48mm exactly. There is clearance front and rear.
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It will depend what they blow up to. These thundero measure 48mm exactly. There is clearance front and rear.
What's the internal width of the rims?
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
High spec set up! Nice one. How does frame size feel? I'm the same height but went for 54 and it certainly doesn't feel compact. Although I think either 54 or 56 is likely fine.
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25mm
Thanks mate. Feels good only been for short 5 min ride. Didn't feel to stretched out. Will take it out tommrow and do my training session on it and report back.
What stem length you go with?
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90mm which gives a similar reach to my road bike that has a 110mm stem. The reach is super long on the frame
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I'll take measurements later but I think it will fit a 2.2 no problem.
do you see time to try this out?
i want to fit in the 29″ x 2.2″ (700C x 55) Antelope Hill TC Tire or even the Schwalbe – G-One Speed Addix Speedgrip 29X2.35
so need to know the clearence i have
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It will take a 55mm measured for sure. Whether you seem it acceptable would depend on conditions
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Mine just came in. Color 55 - lots of blue and purple. It was dusk during picture time, so didn't show it off very well. It took right at 3 weeks for them to produce the frame. Eddy must be married to the UPS guy's sister or something. Picked up in Hong Kong yesterday and delivered to Alabama today. A day and a half delivery - HFS.
Gave it a good lookover. Paint job is super clean. Top headset is a bit tight, but the bearing does go in. Seatpost may be too slick, though I did clamp it and it seems to be very solid. Not sure if I want a zero offset post anyway, so may put my old one in. It is indeed about 1" longer than a Carbonda 696 small - I was terribly squeezed on that frame (which is kind of a shame, it is a solid frame).
Weights:
Frame - 1265g (no bolts, with derailleur hangar)
Fork - 425g uncut, no bolts
Seatpost - 164g
For shits and giggles I weighed all the bolts - 76g. Most of those will be replaced with plastic screws. Frame spec is 1150g +-50 unpainted, so 1238 painted (no bolts, no hangar) passes the smell test. It isn't a super light frame, but that isn't its purpose. The door is 70g all by itself, so a bit heavy. But that's the bling on this frame, so totally worth it.
It does look like it has plenty of clearance on the non-drive side for a 4iii powermeter. That's what I was most worried about.
The headset provided is 4 piece - no crown race. That doesn't seem right - what did everyone else get?
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No crown race on most forks these days. Already have the mating surface from the carbon.
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Done a few rides 150km total. Half road half gravel
As we all know ride feel is very subjective... and I'm still tweaking a few bits.
So far I'm finding it good. The door doesn't rattle or move around which I was worried about. It is very secure.
Found it to be abit twitchy in corners. On a downhill with bumps I'm felling like it wants to buck me off. I thing a sloped top tube and more seatpost sticking out this thing would be a home run.
But considering the price point I'm impressed.
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A chance meeting of two Tideace Noahs at Raiders Gravel and the British Gravel Champs.
Both super happy with it!
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Finished the build. Or at least a preliminary stop gap until I decide how high I want the bars - they'll come down a bit, just not sure how much. This bike is designed as a do all long haul road/gravel bike - definitely not getting this anywhere near as low as my S5 roadie. I'm going to plan a day to move the bars down a bit to get to where I want and then do a final cut. This came in at 9.05kg, which isn't bad considering that I'm using lower end components and wheels than Osh or Gloss. Equipment:
GRX600 2x mechanical
4iii powermeter
HED Emporia GA rims
32mm GP5000s
FSA Adventure bars (heavy, but not a fan of lots of flare)
Redshift stem
Praxis T47 IB bottom bracket
With 43mm gravelkings it's more like 9.2kgs - damn tires are heavy. There is tons of room in this frame for more. 2.1" should not be a problem if one can live with .25" of clearance to the frame. Everything seems spot on except the brakes, which I'm having a bear of a time getting centered. They just seem to barely rub - still mucking with them (Edit: I think I got them worked). Everything else went together well. This is a semi internal routing setup, so I used all of the headset pieces sent with it. Loads of fun wrangling with four wires through the frame, but it did go together and the pass through cap seems to work fine. Powermeter has plenty of space - no worries there. Not sure I like the bar tape, but it'll do for now.
Also, the downtube compartment and tool bag rock. It's got a nice set of tools/supplies in it and it fits fine. It also doubles as a big hold down for the cables going through, so no rattle evident at all.
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Nice work
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Do those weights include the toolbag and tools?
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Do those weights include the toolbag and tools?
No, includes pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount. Not the tool bag or tools. Tool bag is light. Tools are pretty heavy.
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How long did it from placing the order to receiving the frame?
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How long did it from placing the order to receiving the frame?
3 weeks on the nose for me. Like I mentioned above, though, somehow the frame got from Hong Kong to me (Alabama) in like 2 days. Ridiculous and I must have had a fairy riding along for that to happen. I think the other guys in here also experienced about 3 weeks to get to shipping.
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Could anybody with this frame confirm the size/spec of the headset bearings? Mainly the angles, I'm 99% sure they are 52mm x 40mm x 8mm...
I have this frame but somehow lost the headset bearings and want to make sure I am sourcing a replacement that will fit.
Thanks!
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Try emailing them. Unfortunately not an easy thing to take out and measure!
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Try emailing them. Unfortunately not an easy thing to take out and measure!
Yeah, I sent them an e-mail as well. Wouldn't ask or expect anyone to do disassembly to check! Just hoping maybe somebody hadn't put theirs together yet or maybe had a picture.
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Both top and bottom are 52-7
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Got a chance to give her a nice ride over the weekend. Frame is solid. Very stable, but can't whip it around like my old S5 (nothing surprising here - that's what these frames should do). The 32mm tires make me feel like I'm on rails - so much traction in turns it's crazy. The zero offset seatpost will take some getting used to, but it felt good. Not sure how fast the frame is, but it sure didn't feel slow and my average speed was totally reasonable.
Saddle is replaced and bars will definitely come down a half inch or so (at least). Oh, and I totally lied when I said I thought the tools in the downtube would mute cable rattled. Cables rattled like a mofo. I have foam and will be treating cables this weekend to try and get rid of that. None of that is the fault of the frame, though. In fact, getting to the cables through the downtube is trivial - so nice. So far very happy with this frame.
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I used some pipe lagging and it stopped any rattling.
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Hi,
I am about to order this frame as well. Did you already have problems with the tool bag cover? How secure is it? Do you think this could lead to problems in the future?
Maybe there is a possibility to order a spare cover.
Thank you!
Edit: what size would you recommend for 187cm and 88cm inseam length? 56 or 58?
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I was very impressed with the quality of the bag. Its very big. You could fit 2 bags in the frame. 1 downwards 1 upwards.
I'm 182 and went 56 with 90mm stem. Happy so far. 500 kms on it now
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I was very impressed with the quality of the bag. Its very big. You could fit 2 bags in the frame. 1 downwards 1 upwards.
I'm 182 and went 56 with 90mm stem. Happy so far. 500 kms on it now
Thanks for your reply. I didn´t mean the bag itself, but the cover. Is this kind of loose? Or could this lead to problems in the future?
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I have found it to be very secure. With a 700ml bottle it's doesn't rattle... even off road.
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I have very slight movement at the bottom of the cover. I applied some liquid electrical tape just to make it a slightly softer surface and that seems to have stopped it.
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I ordered this frame aswell.
But I dont want to use the standard handlebar.
Where can i find a stem that fits the unusual 1 1/2" headset?
Or can I use a 1 1/8" stem??
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It uses 1 1/8 stem. The bigger bearing is to fit cables through
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Mine just came in. Color 55 - lots of blue and purple. It was dusk during picture time, so didn't show it off very well. It took right at 3 weeks for them to produce the frame. Eddy must be married to the UPS guy's sister or something. Picked up in Hong Kong yesterday and delivered to Alabama today. A day and a half delivery - HFS.
Gave it a good lookover. Paint job is super clean. Top headset is a bit tight, but the bearing does go in. Seatpost may be too slick, though I did clamp it and it seems to be very solid. Not sure if I want a zero offset post anyway, so may put my old one in. It is indeed about 1" longer than a Carbonda 696 small - I was terribly squeezed on that frame (which is kind of a shame, it is a solid frame).
Weights:
Frame - 1265g (no bolts, with derailleur hangar)
Fork - 425g uncut, no bolts
Seatpost - 164g
For shits and giggles I weighed all the bolts - 76g. Most of those will be replaced with plastic screws. Frame spec is 1150g +-50 unpainted, so 1238 painted (no bolts, no hangar) passes the smell test. It isn't a super light frame, but that isn't its purpose. The door is 70g all by itself, so a bit heavy. But that's the bling on this frame, so totally worth it.
It does look like it has plenty of clearance on the non-drive side for a 4iii powermeter. That's what I was most worried about.
The headset provided is 4 piece - no crown race. That doesn't seem right - what did everyone else get?
Stunning! Think I want the same color, do you have more pictures for me? :)
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Is there any information on the max. chainring size?
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Is there any information on the max. chainring size?
For the single chainring size is 44T, so for double it would be compatible with 50/34 is what I got for information.
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Do you know the chainline for 44T? Is there a chance a 46T will fit with a SRAM Wide Crankset?
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Do you know the chainline for 44T? Is there a chance a 46T will fit with a SRAM Wide Crankset?
No clue tbh, dind ask. I plan on running 2x GRX for now. Might try something 1x but for my flat dutch lands 2x will be best.
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I'm running a 46T. With my Magene P505 I run a very thin spacer which gives enough space between chainring and chainstay.
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Thank you. I will try it although I need this Special SRAM Tool for changing the chainring on the XPLR crank.
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46 is pretty good. Might be worth a shot.
How long did it take from order to delivery for you guys? Eddy said 3-10 days for painting and 5-15 for shipping. I wanna start riding ASAP! :) Hate waiting :D
Also, what kind of bottom bracket are you guys running for offroad? I got a ceramicspeed T47a on my Factor but for offroad ceramic bearings... Idk about that. Looking for options!
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I will use the BBinfinite T47i
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I went ceramicspeed.... I will just be more diligent with servicing
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Hmm yeah,
Chris King ThreadFit T47-24i Bottom Bracket
Bbinfinite T47-Internal Shimano Bottom Brackets (Just sucks wiht import costs due to American))
Wheels Manafacturing T47 ABEC-3 BB for 24mm (Shimano) Cranks (I still have a set of 2437 hambini bearings)
White Industries Internal Bottom Bracket - T47- (No sleeve tho)
But then theres also stuff like Rotor, Token, C-bear.
So many options. I've heard great things about Chris King BB's but pretty expensive...
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I went for a cheap ZTTO BB and swapped out the bearings for Enduro ones with contact seal outboard and non-contact seal inboard.
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Check! Is there any non SRAM UDH users here? As I plan to use GRX DI2 , Does the frame also come with a standard hangar or do I need something like wheels mfg dropout 562?
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Stunning! Think I want the same color, do you have more pictures for me? :)
I don't have any more, but it's the same color as this road bike on their site:
https://tideacebike.com/collections/road-bike-frame/products/fm-cr068-aerodynamic-road-racing-bike-frame
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46 is pretty good. Might be worth a shot.
How long did it take from order to delivery for you guys? Eddy said 3-10 days for painting and 5-15 for shipping. I wanna start riding ASAP! :) Hate waiting :D
Also, what kind of bottom bracket are you guys running for offroad? I got a ceramicspeed T47a on my Factor but for offroad ceramic bearings... Idk about that. Looking for options!
3 weeks to my door, but the shipping time was like 2 days. Still agog at that one.
For BB I used the Praxis IB T47 one. Reasonable cost and it works fine, though I haven't tortured the bike off-road yet.
Check! Is there any non SRAM UDH users here? As I plan to use GRX DI2 , Does the frame also come with a standard hangar or do I need something like wheels mfg dropout 562?
Maybe I'm a dumb ass, but I used what they sent, hooked it up to my GRX 600 stuff and it works. I have no idea if what they sent is UDH or a standard hangar.
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Its always UDH but Wheels Manufacturing offers a special UDH hanger for Shimano Direct Mount.
https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers/universal-derailleur-hangers/derailleur-hanger-562.html
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UDH is a standard for the dropout. It comes with a hanger and will work with *ANY* RD. I'm using LTWOO.
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
The problem is I've been trying to review this entire thread on the geometry, and am still wrecking my brain LoL
My current gravel bike is a Yoeleo G21 in a size 56. Perhaps I should just stick with that.
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Thanks! Ill use the default mount for now then!
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
The problem is I've been trying to review this entire thread on the geometry, and am still wrecking my brain LoL
My current gravel bike is a Yoeleo G21 in a size 56. Perhaps I should just stick with that.
How tall are you?
You can put the measurements in to one of the online geometry comparison tools and see how it looks versus your existing frames. FWIW I am 182cm tall and have a 54 with a 100mm stem (the reach of this frame is super long). That puts me roughly in the same position as on my Yoeleo R12 RB which has a 110mm stem. I run quite a few spacers compared to my road bike for a bit more control and actually a more comfortable aero position when needed.
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How tall are you?
You can put the measurements in to one of the online geometry comparison tools and see how it looks versus your existing frames. FWIW I am 182cm tall and have a 54 with a 100mm stem (the reach of this frame is super long). That puts me roughly in the same position as on my Yoeleo R12 RB which has a 110mm stem. I run quite a few spacers compared to my road bike for a bit more control and actually a more comfortable aero position when needed.
I'm 183cm tall. My SL8 setup is 393mm frame reach (Size 56/L) with a 140mm cockpit. Mostly slammed.
Obviously this isn't ideal for a gravel bike. My Yoeleo G21 Gravel bike is a size 56/L with a reach of 387mm, stack 586mm, and I'm running a 120mm stem integrated cockpit. It's comfortable for all-day on country gravel roads. Although the 200km ride I did on my SL8 this past weekend was also comfortable after 6 hours.
I dont suffer any toe overlap with my Yoeleo G21. But I would like a gravel frame with more frame reach, a longer wheelbase, with some extremely tall stack.
Looks like size 540 would make the most sense. With either a 110 or 120 stem cockpit. My plan so is to hop into some gravel races next year so need to run a front end to be able to attach TT bars.
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I've been eyeing this frame for months now. Hoping TanTan will sell me their OEM version for a bit cheaper and so I can paint it myself.
My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
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Is there any difference between the frames?
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My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
I don't know how TanTan can offer that frame at such cheap prices. Maybe I don't wanna know LoL.
My TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone) cost me about $600 and the design had be released for a while.
Apparently I'm part of TanTan's email newsletters for newly released products. When they emailed about the release of their new GR201 I asked the price. They replied with "Whats your MOQ? This for OEM buyers only."
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Is there any difference between the frames?
No I don´t think so. But TanTan does not offer a frame bag.
I don't know how TanTan can offer that frame at such cheap prices. Maybe I don't wanna know LoL.
My TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone) cost me about $600 and the design had be released for a while.
Apparently I'm part of TanTan's email newsletters for newly released products. When they emailed about the release of their new GR201 I asked the price. They replied with "Whats your MOQ? This for OEM buyers only."
Okay, i just ordered one frame from them and this was also my first order from TanTan, so i think you can also order one for yourself.
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For Tideace GV201 frame has five Years warranty.
And the seatpost, tool bag, headset, clamp both included.
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Loaded up.
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https://youtu.be/TQ0FKMyiUxY?si=u87-2qq2YT-YMug3
Sick color, can't wait to receive my frame and enjoy this color in person :)
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
Hi,
in my opinion you could easily go with both.
I have only heard good things about TanTan and also their service and reply time is excellent.
I think Tideace is also a good choice but I have no experience with them.
You can contact TanTan via AliExpress etc. but the best way is via e-mail.
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Hi guys
Have decided to bite the bullet and get this frame. Thank you for all the contributions to this thread, they've been very helpful.
I have two outstanding questions:
- I see that it mentioned that Tantan offers the same frame. Is there a reason other than price to prefer them?
- regardless of whether one purchases from Tantan or Tideace, what's the best channel to buy one from the UK? Should I email someone, or buy from a website specifically?
I had contact with Eddy through Whatsapp and he send me an invoice through PayPal , he's also on this forum. You can email him at eddy@haidelibicycle.com. Had no problems, quick communication and answered all the questions :)
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Yes, feel free to contact us.
Whatsapp: +86 184 7536 8733
Email:
eddy@haidelibicycle.com
official@tideacebike.com
For the GV201 frame, Tideace has five years warranty.
Thanks for the supporting of all members from forum.
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How is the headset bearing quality? Because getting them out is a terrible task with integrated cockpits. Might be worth to swap straight away for some good quality SKF bearing. Can anyone confirm the size for the bearings?
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How is the headset bearing quality? Because getting them out is a terrible task with integrated cockpits. Might be worth to swap straight away for some good quality SKF bearing. Can anyone confirm the size for the bearings?
I dont know about the quality. For the size of the bearings look at page 6 of this Thread.
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I dont know about the quality. For the size of the bearings look at page 6 of this Thread.
Ah good shout, missed them. So standard 6808 or 61808 bearing, 52x40x7 those are easily obtained. Made by SKF and every other well known maker. I hate taking apart headsets with integraded cables. Such a pain, having a good pair of headset bearings saves a bunch of trouble.
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Maybe someone else can say something about the quality?
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3d printed a holder for co2 and dynaplug to mount on the back of the glovebox cover for quick access. Came out soon good happy to send anyone the print file if intrested
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Picture
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3d printed a holder for co2 and dynaplug to mount on the back of the glovebox cover for quick access. Came out soon good happy to send anyone the print file if intrested
Oh yeah that looks interesting! Can you send me the file? Dont have a 3d printer but im sure that can be arranged!
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For the single Chainring MAX size is 55T.
Thanks
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I use 50/34 oval chainrings from ROTOR. Do you know if they fit with standard road chain line? I run 12S Ultegra di2 and if I play with the spacers and extend the chainline, then the FD will not work as setting the H/L limits is very limited. Another point is that I need to move FD relatively high (for equivalent of ra 52T chainring), it is not possible in some cases as the FD mount is not high enough.
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For the single Chainring MAX size is 55T.
Thanks
I don't think this is right. I had to use a small spacer so that it would take my 46T!
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Picture
Could I get this too please? Also don't have a printer but will send it to a 3rd party.
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Does Tideace offer this frame without logos and with custom paint?
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Does Tideace offer this frame without logos and with custom paint?
Yes, I ordered an unpainted frame by email.
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Yes, I ordered an unpainted frame by email.
I see the option for unpainted, but nothing for painted without logos.
Not a fan of the logos :)
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Just ask for no logos, not a problem.
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I see the option for unpainted, but nothing for painted without logos.
Not a fan of the logos :)
They will. I asked for the big logo to be omitted and with custom paint. No problem. I'm sure they'd do one with no logos.
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Hi:
Feel free to contact us.
It would be both okay to with the frame painted or not painted, in raw or customized color and logo.
Thanks.
Eddy
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Loaded up.
You got your rear GP5000 in the wrong rollin rotation
just you know :)
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You got your rear GP5000 in the wrong rollin rotation
just you know :)
Lol, oh no. I might average 15.97mph instead of 16.
;D
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Lol, oh no. I might average 15.97mph instead of 16.
More likely 15.94 mph, because the front wheel has also the wrong direction. ;)
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My frame was shipped today
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My frame was shipped today
Nice! That sounds good! When did you order again?
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One month ago, 14.09.2024
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One month ago, 14.09.2024
Check, a bit of a backlog I guess. I ordered 22.09.2024. What size is this? Color code 55 I think also? Same as mine.
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Its Color Code 60 and size 58
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Would you consider providing a blanking plate for the FD mount when it is run 1x?
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He told me that a cover is available and wanted to add it to my order. I will report.
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A lot customized painting GV201 being done and shipped out.
Any interested contact us.
Best regards
Eddy
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My prices at TanTan were 470$ for frame and fork, 20$ for ThruAxles and 150$ for shipping. (110$ for a two color paint job)
Just for your information. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks
With handlebar combo?
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With handlebar combo?
TanTan offers the same frame including a handlebar - I paid 744 dollars with included shipping and prepaid customs and PayPal fee
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Did somebody already put 2.25 tires in it? with pictures of it?
greetings Ossip
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Does the frame come with round or aero spacers? I much prefer the looks of the aero/square spacers. But if theyre not included, have to order them separate. Most I see with the square/integraded spacers but some also have round.
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Does the frame come with round or aero spacers? I much prefer the looks of the aero/square spacers. But if theyre not included, have to order them separate. Most I see with the square/integraded spacers but some also have round.
You can order both. Just tell them what you want.
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My frame is now painted and ready for shipping. I think it looks quite nice 8)
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Looks really good! Congrats on a stunner.
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Did somebody already put 2.25 tires in it? with pictures of it?
greetings Ossip
Tried it today in the rear. Doesn't fit, not even close.
I don't think a 2.2 would work either unless it was slick. 2.1 is probably fine.
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My frame is now painted and ready for shipping. I think it looks quite nice 8)
Looks quite nice honestly. It was a frame didn't like so much, but looks great with that paintjob. Good choice. Looking forward for the final build
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
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Got a GR201 on order in gold/champagne color. Pretty excited.
My plan is to run a separate bar/stem combo to easily add TT bars later. While the likelihood of ever using TT bars is minimal unless I do Unbound 200, it will be nice to play around with the front end for optimal fit.
Can't decide on Di2 12sp 2x, or Sram eTap 1x. Or XPLR 1x 13sp. The latter is quite expensive.
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Shorter chainstays and a slightly steeper seat tube would get me interested. This would probably reduce the top tube length by a bit as well.
Well...I take it back, I'm officially interested. I had a steel gravel frame built for me with custom geo earlier this year and I've since finished a couple of races on it. I've since been toying with the idea of building a new steel frame with some geo and tire clearance updates, but realized the GR021/NOAH in size 54 is basically the same as what I had in my head, for a lower price point and the bonus of downtube storage.
I ordered a raw frame from Longteng, which is slightly more expensive than Tan Tan but with faster shipping options. They said the frame was "in stock ready to ship". Turns out it's not in stock and production will take at least 10 days, but it's no big deal, I need time to think up a paint job anyway.
Will be transferring the TRP/Eagle AXS groupset from my other bike for now but looking at GRX mechanical, Ekar, or a Force 1 groupset I have sitting in a box for the long term. With the Force group, I'd have to get the Ratio 12 speed mod and a Garbaruk cage.
I would build it with the LTwoo EGR if it allowed for a cassette larger than 46T. :(
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Got a GR201 on order in gold/champagne color. Pretty excited.
My plan is to run a separate bar/stem combo to easily add TT bars later. While the likelihood of ever using TT bars is minimal unless I do Unbound 200, it will be nice to play around with the front end for optimal fit.
Can't decide on Di2 12sp 2x, or Sram eTap 1x. Or XPLR 1x 13sp. The latter is quite expensive.
Ltwoo e-gr or wheeltop GeX. If you're going in, go fully in.
My e-gr has been great on this frame, and I'm sure the wheeltop would be too. as a 1X setup they are particularly well suited (as FD shift quality is a differentiator with high-end groupsets)
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
But with another bar/stem combo.
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Spot the NOAH https://youtu.be/DW0eONO_blw?si=zNw6iIaAwg4-NKjG
Did you also notice that he put tape around the storage box? That is not a good sign, right? Or it is just out of precaution...
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Did you also notice that he put tape around the storage box? That is not a good sign, right? Or it is just out of precaution...
Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
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Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
What do you have inside of it? Got some pictures?
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Mine doesn't rattle. I do have it full, though.
Does the frame comes with some kind of bag for the storage? Do you yave a pic?
Thanks
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I dont suffer any toe overlap with my Yoeleo G21. But I would like a gravel frame with more frame reach, a longer wheelbase, with some extremely tall stack.
I would caution you against increasing your reach too much - yes, you can compensate with a shorter stem, but then you'll end up with too much weight on your saddle. you can compensate for that w/shorter stack to shift more weight forward, but then your back will start complaining. Increasing both will jack everything up. if you're comfortable w/your current stack/reach for 6hrs there's a good chance that's as good as it gets.
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What do you have inside of it? Got some pictures?
The frame does come with a "stuff bag", i.e. the Tideace Schlong. Two pics of the sealed bag and with stuff. It all barely fits and keeps everything snug once the cover is on. Stuff I carry in there:
Tube
CO2 and mini inflator
Multitool (say it like Leeloo)
Zip ties
plug tool
boot material (dog food packaging)
Levers
alcohol wipe
a couple compressed wipes
quicklinks
a bit of TP ('cause you never know!)
extra valve and valve tool
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FWIW I have a minimal setup in mine with the provided tool bag and no rattle. I also use a foam sleeve for the rear brake hose which has made it a lot quieter.
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I have another question regarding the internal storage, for those that already have the full bike.
Do the cable have any sort of "guidance" inside the down tube or all they just randomly going down towards the bottom bracket area?
I ask because I've seen at least one vid from Seraph/TanTan where the cables are just loosely going down the frame, while I know some western brands manage to keep the storage clean (ex. Propain Terrel)
https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk (https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk)
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I have another question regarding the internal storage, for those that already have the full bike.
Do the cable have any sort of "guidance" inside the down tube or all they just randomly going down towards the bottom bracket area?
I ask because I've seen at least one vid from Seraph/TanTan where the cables are just loosely going down the frame, while I know some western brands manage to keep the storage clean (ex. Propain Terrel)
https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk (https://youtu.be/F_YlUI-BSlk)
Just loose, no guidance. Use a foam sleeve and it won't shift about. They're like £1 on AliExpress.
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Yeah I use Jagwire Internal Housing Damper Frame Foam, never really had a problem with it. Its just the brake hoses anyway. With some foam, you shouldn't have got any rattle.
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Ordered it today through Tantan
529$ UD Glossy size 49 with HB047 120*36 and seatpost
150$ sending to Germany
10$ headset
20$ thru axle
Gonna be build with EGr and elite gravel 45mm
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Sweet!
Finally, I've pulled a triger on my own after reading all of positive things ya'll said.
Found a factory that supplies Tideace and after few e-mails got myself a sweet deal (635$= white glossy painted frame,seatpost,axels,head-tube bearings,UDH hanger and Tax free shipping to EU)
Can't wait to build it with parts that I've been collecting since 08/2024 which are:
Elite wheels ENT-disc 38mm ,,Forging pattern,,
Shimano di2 105 2x12s
ZRACE XG brake callipers
Quarq/Riro cranks with 50/34 chainring
Bucklos 3D/carbon fake S-Works saddle
Rhinowalk frame bags
Topeak Mtx Super Tourist Dx Disc Mtx 2.0
And some other that is yet to be purchased for e.g Toseek TR5500 stem+bar combo after bikefitting
Will treat it as a tourist bike since my 2023 cannondale scalpel w/ Lefty will finally be only marathon and XC bike after over 3500km mostly road riding in Japan. I had also cannondale SuperSix Evo 2022 there (sold it after frame cracked...not even a year after 2nd-hand buy) and for sure I need something road focused, that can be flawlessly used on offroad, with quite amount of bags (and skateboard LOL).
Can't wait to show full build ;D
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I bought mine from TanTan direct to the UK and waiting on delivery now. I asked for plain carbon with a gloss finish over it.
So far Ive gathered a mix of a Sram AXS XPLR groupset with quarq and 44t 1x chain ring.
Still haven't decided fully on the wheels I want (9velo or ICAN probably) or what I want to do with the front end, looking at the Deda or FSA integrated setups.
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I bought mine from TanTan direct to the UK and waiting on delivery now. I asked for plain carbon with a gloss finish over it.
So far Ive gathered a mix of a Sram AXS XPLR groupset with quarq and 44t 1x chain ring.
Still haven't decided fully on the wheels I want (9velo or ICAN probably) or what I want to do with the front end, looking at the Deda or FSA integrated setups.
LOVE IT! Such a rad idea with that finish
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Sweet!
Finally, I've pulled a triger on my own after reading all of positive things ya'll said.
Found a factory that supplies Tideace and after few e-mails got myself a sweet deal (635$= white glossy painted frame,seatpost,axels,head-tube bearings,UDH hanger and Tax free shipping to EU)
Can't wait to build it with parts that I've been collecting since 08/2024 which are:
Elite wheels ENT-disc 38mm ,,Forging pattern,,
Shimano di2 105 2x12s
ZRACE XG brake callipers
Quarq/Riro cranks with 50/34 chainring
Bucklos 3D/carbon fake S-Works saddle
Rhinowalk frame bags
Topeak Mtx Super Tourist Dx Disc Mtx 2.0
And some other that is yet to be purchased for e.g Toseek TR5500 stem+bar combo after bikefitting
Will treat it as a tourist bike since my 2023 cannondale scalpel w/ Lefty will finally be only marathon and XC bike after over 3500km mostly road riding in Japan. I had also cannondale SuperSix Evo 2022 there (sold it after frame cracked...not even a year after 2nd-hand buy) and for sure I need something road focused, that can be flawlessly used on offroad, with quite amount of bags (and skateboard LOL).
Can't wait to show full build ;D
Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
My build has finished and first ride has been done. Absolutely love it at the moment!
Build list :
- Shimano 12 speed R8150 groupset with 50/34 cranks and 11-34 cassette and M9100 chain
- Lightbicycle AR55 Pro's with ERASE hubs that I had laying around which are handbuild, paired with Pathfinder 42mm's at the moment. For winter/muddy rides, will switch to a 45mm more nobby tire.
- Bbinfinite T47I bottom bracket
- My beloved ZIPP CX bartape
- Currently using a Specialized Power Arc saddle that I had laying around. Still deciding what saddle I wanna run
- Installed a bunch of 3M tape on the downtube, around BB and on the arms to keep the paint nice! :)
- Have my Favero Assioma DUO on them from my road bike, probably will buy Favero Assioma MX with some Black Friday deal
With this massive seatpost length and size 58 in custom paint, she is looking at 9.3kg right now. Can reduce this weight with saddle and lighter rims quite easily. Kinda want the new Nextie 25mm internal wavy rims! :D
Some pictures : https://imgur.com/a/tideace-gravelbike-MI9DSCx
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Page 12 broken?
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Page definitely broken
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Let's start a new page and hope for the best
Edit: success! At least for me it works again 8)
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Hmm yeah page 12 broken, I made a beautiful post about my bike and poof, gone! :(
Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
My build has finished and first ride has been done. Absolutely love it at the moment!
Build list :
- Shimano 12 speed R8150 groupset with 50/34 cranks and 11-34 cassette and M9100 chain
- Lightbicycle AR55 Pro's with ERASE hubs that I had laying around which are handbuild, paired with Pathfinder 42mm's at the moment. For winter/muddy rides, will switch to a 45mm more nobby tire.
- Bbinfinite T47I bottom bracket
- My beloved ZIPP CX bartape
- Currently using a Specialized Power Arc saddle that I had laying around. Still deciding what saddle I wanna run
- Installed a bunch of 3M tape on the downtube, around BB and on the arms to keep the paint nice! :)
- Have my Favero Assioma DUO on them from my road bike, probably will buy Favero Assioma MX with some Black Friday deal
With this massive seatpost length and size 58 in custom paint, she is looking at 9.3kg right now. Can reduce this weight with saddle and lighter rims quite easily. Kinda want the new Nextie 25mm internal wavy rims! :D
Some pictures : https://imgur.com/a/tideace-gravelbike-MI9DSCx
Won't attach pictures this time, that's what caused the crash I think! :P
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Nice! I've looked at that Bucklos saddle. Still haven't decided, alot of reviews who are great. I have the orginal S-Works Power Mirror on my road bike and love it! It's nice that it has the SWAT mount for my radar. With this saddle you lose that but do save alot of money and some weight over my current saddle. Have you got personal experiences with that saddle?
Tbh just a video of a guy called ,,Everything's Been Done,, convinced me to give it a try
Found a post on local marketplace that someone bought two instead of one and a price was just to good to pass ;)
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Tbh just a video of a guy called ,,Everything's Been Done,, convinced me to give it a try
Found a post on local marketplace that someone bought two instead of one and a price was just to good to pass ;)
Right, they are €57 on Ali now. And with a €5 coupon it's at €52. At those prices, it's worth a shot!
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Is anyone looking at this and the Grail 2. gen (SPCycle G068) as well?
I'm trying to decide which to go with. I am currently riding a Giant Revolt (2023) M/L with a 120mm stem and it is just a bit on the small side (I'm 188cm, 90cm inside legs).
My riding is more racing than adventure. On the road I ride a 56cm Venge (2020) and a 58cm Supersix rim(2017). Both are ~400mm reach and with a 130mm stem. Venge has more spacers though ;D
I am drawn to the "progressive" geometry of the G068, but the GR201 seems like a good all around geometry that is similar to, but longer, than my Revolt (which I like a lot apart from wishing it was longer)
Opinions?
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Right, they are €57 on Ali now. And with a €5 coupon it's at €52. At those prices, it's worth a shot!
I have 3k plus miles on mine. Love it.
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Would love to have this frame like in the smaller sizes, but shorter chainstay. The 520 size looks great, but would be even better with 425mm chainstay and possibly 74deg seat tube (doesn't matter that much). Otherwise it looks great with ~71-71.5 deg steerer.
The G068 also looks great, but i would like to be able to fit 2.1" MTB tyres on, which G068 frame wont take - at least not without far too little spacing at the sides to the chainstays. Also the downtube storage is a plus on the GR201 compared to G068.
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My Frame came in on Saturday. I am currently building it up but I'm wondering how to lay the shift cables (mechanical grx) around the bottom bracket.
I layed them under the BB but I'm not sure if this is right? Under some tension it might be too tight an kind of saws through the crank??
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My Frame came in on Saturday. I am currently building it up but I'm wondering how to lay the shift cables (mechanical grx) around the bottom bracket.
I layed them under the BB but I'm not sure if this is right? Under some tension it might be too tight an kind of saws through the crank??
Yeah under the bb, under the metal sleeve. Put some foam around it, same with brake hoses. They wont rattle and not gonna tear the cable. I use Jagwire but any will do
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Well...I take it back, I'm officially interested. I had a steel gravel frame built for me with custom geo earlier this year and I've since finished a couple of races on it. I've since been toying with the idea of building a new steel frame with some geo and tire clearance updates, but realized the GR021/NOAH in size 54 is basically the same as what I had in my head, for a lower price point and the bonus of downtube storage.
I ordered a raw frame from Longteng, which is slightly more expensive than Tan Tan but with faster shipping options. They said the frame was "in stock ready to ship". Turns out it's not in stock and production will take at least 10 days, but it's no big deal, I need time to think up a paint job anyway.
Will be transferring the TRP/Eagle AXS groupset from my other bike for now but looking at GRX mechanical, Ekar, or a Force 1 groupset I have sitting in a box for the long term. With the Force group, I'd have to get the Ratio 12 speed mod and a Garbaruk cage.
I would build it with the LTwoo EGR if it allowed for a cassette larger than 46T. :(
My frame from Longteng is on the way, hoping to receive it next week. I ordered on 10/21 and received an email on 11/1 with a picture of my unpainted frame, asking me to confirm shipping information. Received tracking number on 11/5. I was kind of hoping they would take another week or two as I'm not ready to start a new build just yet, lol.
Total cost: 600USD (plus paypal fees)
Size 54 raw frame - 420
Storage bag - 8
Headset - 12
Axles - 25
Shipping - 135
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We need more pics in this thread…. Tons of pics
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Ordered a 49 from tantan in UD glossy with HB047 handlebar
They had one in stock. It's on the way.
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Has anybody found a cover that fits for the FD mount if you run 1x?
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We need more pics in this thread…. Tons of pics
As you wish : https://imgur.com/a/49rwc6w
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That's one high ass seat. You must be quite flexible to still be able to reach the drops ;D
Btw what varia mount are you using?
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Hehe yep quite flexible these days. Works like a charm and can def remove more spacers but its fine for now.
I use a 3D printed SWAT mount for specialized saddles. It integratates very nicely. https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-varia-specialized-swat-saddle-mount-20mm-offset?srsltid=AfmBOooe9SAOJdfmOVzDDxAwXo8R4UNkCjCZVji8Zdy6bw9XuJHcxVR2
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Discount code Tideacebike-2024 for Black Friday
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Am I doing something wrong? I get a puny 19,18€ discount; that's just over 2%.
Technically, it is "up to 40%" as you advertise but still feels a bit stingy.
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Received mine today :
Will weight and mount everything tonight.
The little parts (spacers, expander, headset bearings) were loose inside the package.. the bag wasn't closed correctly. But no damage.
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400mm reach with 570mm top tube in size 54, plus outdated seat tube inclination, 435mm long chai stay.
I am sorry but the design is a little Crazy. If they have put 75 deg in the back maybe they would bring the saddle closer, reduce top tube to something reasonable and paired with a short stem it could work. But this .... I don't see it
it's interesting as reach varies much less than normal between a sm and an xl size - it's almost like they tried to keep the bottom bracket and HT mostly in the same place and just let the larger seat tube dictate the top tube length. it's good for riders with long torsos across the whole range of rider heights
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Sooo,
Faced the brakes surfaces because it was bad, and routed the cable out of the bars because the holes were really sharp and destroyed the hoses.
I also had to mount a 1mm spacer because the bolts of 110 BCD Sram Force spider were touching the frame.
Rest is really impressive, I love it !
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Sooo,
Faced the brakes surfaces because it was bad, and routed the cable out of the bars because the holes were really sharp and destroyed the hoses.
I also had to mount a 1mm spacer because the bolts of 110 BCD Sram Force spider were touching the frame.
Rest is really impressive, I love it !
What size is this?
Still waiting for mine (54) and as I can see it should be quite easy to go below 8 kg
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It's 49, and yes I think it can go easily under 8kg. I could already save : cassette 200g
Seatpost 90g
Saddle 100g
Cranks 200g
Pedals 50g
Wheels 200g
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Nice! What bars did you mount?
Looking very solid and sharp. Now time to ride it!
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Nice! What bars did you mount?
Looking very solid and sharp. Now time to ride it!
HB047 36/43cm x 100mm -17°
It's the bars that tantan sell with the frame
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Am considering building up one of these but am SO in doubt about sizing as this would be my first gravel bike.
Ride MTB normally.
Height: 167cm
Inseam: 76,5cm
Any insights on whether a size 49 would fit me? As far as I have understood, the toptube would be too far?
Thanks <3
Peter
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Am considering building up one of these but am SO in doubt about sizing as this would be my first gravel bike.
Ride MTB normally.
Height: 167cm
Inseam: 76,5cm
Any insights on whether a size 49 would fit me? As far as I have understood, the toptube would be too far?
Thanks <3
Peter
I think coming from an MTB it'll actually feel more familiar than a typical compact race bike fit.
you'll need a shorter stem than what one would typically run b/c in those smaller sizes, your reach is like 30-40mm longer than a traditional road bike frame.
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I think coming from an MTB it'll actually feel more familiar than a typical compact race bike fit.
you'll need a shorter stem than what one would typically run b/c in those smaller sizes, your reach is like 30-40mm longer than a traditional road bike frame.
Okay, thanks a lot for the fast reply! So, what you are saying is basically that I could (for instance) go with a 60mm stem and then the fit would be okay'ish?
Would you be able to recommend another chinese frame with a better fit for a small guy like me? :)
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Okay, thanks a lot for the fast reply! So, what you are saying is basically that I could (for instance) go with a 60mm stem and then the fit would be okay'ish?
Would you be able to recommend another chinese frame with a better fit for a small guy like me? :)
I'm 170cm with 79cm inseam. Ride it with a 100m stem and slammed. My back is horizontal when I'm in the drops or paw position on the hoods. You might not need a so short stem (60), depending how you want to ride it.
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Does anyone recon what size seat clamp should I get for GR201? I'm doing a lil color scheme so this MUST be changed straight away ;)
inner size is 27.2 but what about outer side? Also I have found some axles (https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005603728147.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2pol) and I'm sure I'm about to buy all wrong sizes possible...
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Its 31,8 mm
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Just finished my first ever build! I had some issues with a few little things but overall I am really happy with it. The rear brake needs to be adjusted and my handlebars aren't wrapped yet
Edit: I have attached a table with prices and weight if anyone is interested
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That looks great!
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My bike is also ready to Ride
https://imgur.com/a/xtagwv2
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My bike is also ready to Ride
https://imgur.com/a/xtagwv2
Really nice look!
Is this a medium size frame or a large?
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Really nice look!
Is this a medium size frame or a large?
Large size
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Just finished my first ever build! I had some issues with a few little things but overall I am really happy with it. The rear brake needs to be adjusted and my handlebars aren't wrapped yet
Edit: I have attached a table with prices and weight if anyone is interested
The price of the frame seems MUCH lower than what I am able to find and your's even has a custom paintjob.
Could you share where/how you bought this?
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It's in the list: TanTan
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
Nice build!!!
I didn’t knew about Mondince. I had in mind to order the frame from TANTAN but it seems you got a better deal.
I've tried to find their AliExpress store but I haven't been lucky and in their webpage it shows that the minimum order is 10 (they have another light frame below 1kg that has minimum order 50)
Are they open to just 1qty order?
Thank you!
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Ok, I'm big Cannondale guy and today I saw how much my LBS want for low spec Topstone Carbon (10s grx and worst wheels I ever ridden)
3130 Euro w/ Tax!
This is my ,,Cheap GR201,, build (still waiting for most parts and frame):
Frame and UDH hanger 616,00 € 1377g mondince
Fork 0,00 € 438g mondince
Bottom bracket 32,00 € 105g Token T47
Crankset 95 € 570g RiRo Carbon 50/34
Front derailleur 81,00 € 138g Di2 105 2s
Rear derailleur 150 € 301g Di2 105 12s
Wheels 357 € 1610g Elite wheels ENT 38mm
Headset 0 € 103g mondince
Stem and Handlebar 73 € 340g Toseek 5500
Handlebar tape 2 € 10g bucklos
STIs 174 € 442g Di2 105 ST-R7170
Di2 battery 111 € 53g DN300 shimano
Brakes 49 € 2x 95g ZRace XG
Brake discs 11 € 2x140mm 68g aliexpress
Gear cables 26 € 2x10g 2xDi2-300 Shimano 950mm EW-SD300-I
Brake cables 0 € idk ZRace
Cassette 22 € 350g ZRace 11-34T 12s
Axles 0 € 72g mondince
Tires 0 € 920g maxxis 700x33 (had them from a friend)
Saddle 55 € 196g Bucklos fake S-works
Seat post 0€ 165g mondince
Chain 20 € 268g kmc x12
Expander 0 € idk Toseek
Tubes 6 € 74g TPU aliexpress
Brake fluid 0 € 50g Shimano (laying around)
Summary 1880 € around 7970g
Probably under 8KG and there is still few things to cut weight ;D
Viva La 11.11 Aliexpress sales
Does Mondice sells frames directly to customer?
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No, they are not d2c but you can try asking them for a sample. Guess that's what Kopy did.
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I do belive this was a thing with a guy from ,,gravel championships in Belgium,, . He specyficly mentioned Alibaba not Aliexpress. Did some reserch about this frame and found out about Mondince. At first I wanted to order from Tideace but over 900 Euro for a frame with just white paint was bit too much since my goal was 2000 Euro max. Few e-mails and I knew full price with custom paint job and without one. (Here I deleted most of my reply since I realised that I have no clue if they want to sell this frame this way and just did one time thing. I do really hope they ain't gonna be mad at me for posting this :-X )
In addition this is who buys/produces frames in their factory ,,We have prodived OEM service for DUCATI, KHS, RIBBLE, ARGON18, CUBE and other bike brands all over the world. ,,
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Its getting rainy, muddy and snowy. What mudguards are you guys running on your gravel bike?
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5 | RBRL Bicycle Mudguard 28 inch Bicycle Wings Gravel Road Bike Mudguard 700c Quick Release Bike Fender for Bicycle Accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwVGEP3
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Do you have the contact info? Did you order one?
I do belive this was a thing with a guy from ,,gravel championships in Belgium,, . He specyficly mentioned Alibaba not Aliexpress. Did some reserch about this frame and found out about Mondince. At first I wanted to order from Tideace but over 900 Euro for a frame with just white paint was bit too much since my goal was 2000 Euro max. Few e-mails and I knew full price with custom paint job and without one. (Here I deleted most of my reply since I realised that I have no clue if they want to sell this frame this way and just did one time thing. I do really hope they ain't gonna be mad at me for posting this :-X )
In addition this is who buys/produces frames in their factory ,,We have prodived OEM service for DUCATI, KHS, RIBBLE, ARGON18, CUBE and other bike brands all over the world. ,,
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Hello,
While I complete the order of the frameset, I am buying the rest of components.
I am planning to mount a mullet AXS groupset: Sram red e1 shifters/calipers with Sram force d2 power meter 40 or 42t and GX T-Type derailleur.
Could somebody help me to know if I need to buy wide or non wide cranks?
Thank you in advance
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Can anyone confirm whether there is an eyelet for securing a fender near the BB/chainstays?
Nevermind, it is very clearly there in Tantan's photos.
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Just recieved my frameset and weights are as follows:
Raw with gloss finish in 54
Frame (with cage bolts and seatpost collar) - 1331
Fork with cage bolts - 442
Seatpost wirh clamp - 212
Thru axles - 70
46g worth of bottle cage bolts across the bike
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Yeah, these bolts Are heavy AF
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Hi guys
Has anyone ridden this and the LightCarbon LCG071 back to back?
Thanks:-)
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Incoming...
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Nice one. Looking forward to what will be the first proper video on this frame. As a very early adopter I really think it's a steal. After a number of months with it, my only negative is the weight and it's something that you can pretty easily get down to competitive for gravel race bike standards.
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Nice one. Looking forward to what will be the first proper video on this frame. As a very early adopter I really think it's a steal. After a number of months with it, my only negative is the weight and it's something that you can pretty easily get down to competitive for gravel race bike standards.
Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
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Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
T47 inboard. I'm using Rotor T47
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Change Rotors and Pads on SRAM- you will get the Same Performance
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I'm using a cheap AliExpress t47, but have swapped the bearings for Enduro combination sealed steel bearings. They have a non-contact seal inboard, and a contact seal outboard. I ride some pretty rough and often wet and muddy gravel and these are superb.
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For PF etc. it doesn't really matter, since you press out the bb and get a new one in fairly easy. With T47 internal, you don't want to remove the bb. It's fairly annoying since the lip is so small. Just a sit and forget bottom bracket with good bearings. That's why I got the BBInfinite Abec 7 and not ceramic. It's performing great and smooth spinning!
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Yeah once it's in, leave it in. Nothing special about the BB, just swap the bearings as you need to.
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Build complete
Went with size 56 I'm 182
Sram force shifters & brakes
Sram red xplr 13 speed derailleur and cassette
Enve AR 40cm bars
Mosso 90mm stem
Enve SES 4.5 wheels
tufo gravel thundero 48mm (tubeless 60ml sealant in each)
Ceramic speed T47 BB
Garbaruk gravel crankset
Garbaruk 38t chainring
Weight was 8.14 no cages pedals etc
Overall I'm happy with it. Rear brake mounts are on a slight angle took abit of work to not get it to rub. Really needs to be faced.
ello,
I'm about to purchase this frame.
Frame must be sprayed in Pearl white with Matte black.
I plan to purchase the frame from TANTAN.
Now I'm wondering the following: There are three bolts in the front fork.
However, I also see frames passing by without these bolts.
Can someone explain to me how this works?
See bike from @Osh as an example.
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I requested not to have them. I ordered through tideace
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Ok thanks!
Last question. Anyone knows a nice gravel handlebar.
Or is the Tideace HB/008 ok? I dont like the roundings. I want it a bit more square on the headtube.
Handlebar needs to be fully integrated.
(https://i.ibb.co/p06FBpR/Afbeelding-van-Whats-App-op-2024-11-29-om-08-26-50-aaeb3ac1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vwCn68Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/pbdGwjx/Afbeelding-van-Whats-App-op-2024-11-29-om-08-26-50-7b3d2ba0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DzQsWft)
free jpg pictures (https://nl.imgbb.com/)
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Yes, we also have the forks without bolts hole in stock.
Feel free to contact us to order it.
Thanks
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Ok ordered the frame today.
Specs:
Tideace Noah custom paint (58)(pearl white 61 with black 63)
Wheels Reynolds ATR
HB 008 handlebar
Sram red XLPR groupset (from excisting
Fizik 3d saddle
SPECIALIZED pathfinder Pro 42mm tyres
Excited to build this bike. Soon another Tideace Noah in Holland.
I'm gonna sell my Grizl CF SLX 8 suspension frame. So if you are interested
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Ok thanks!
Last question. Anyone knows a nice gravel handlebar.
Or is the Tideace HB/008 ok? I dont like the roundings. I want it a bit more square on the headtube.
Handlebar needs to be fully integrated.
Lexon Unox.
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Lexon Unox.
Oof thats a nice one!
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Frame arrived yesterday, ordered it 6 november arrived yesterday with dpd to the Netherlands
Can’t wait to start with the build, but painting first
Everything was well packed, also tool bag was included
I ordered it in raw carbon to speed up the ordering process. Plan is to paint it so i can start the build.
last parts arrived today.
Overall finish of the frame looks good, time to put together :)
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First Ride: https://imgur.com/a/kWx7LtN
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SRAM Red XPLR 13sp is a such a baller groupset for this build.
I’m tempted to do the same, but I would legitimately have to sell one of my complete bikes LoL. Resell value of Chinese bikes is the lowest of lows.
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Not the best photo but my 54 purple cracked ice arrived today. Wheels are from Peter which look perfect. Looking forward to the build
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SRAM Red XPLR 13sp is a such a baller groupset for this build.
I’m tempted to do the same, but I would legitimately have to sell one of my complete bikes LoL. Resell value of Chinese bikes is the lowest of lows.
Sure but I Sell my bikes only in Parts. And in my experience you never get nearly the Money back for the Frame. The only exception might be specialized.
So my goal was a nice looking UDH Frame to put this groupset on.
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Really nice to ride, happy about it
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Not the best photo but my 54 purple cracked ice arrived today. Wheels are from Peter which look perfect. Looking forward to the build
What rims are those? Look stunning! 8)
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Santa is here! (bit early but not gonna complain)
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What rims are those? Look stunning! 8)
I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
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I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
Some would say smart, others would say reckless...
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I did the smart thing and stole the specs from glossy (see his earlier post in this thread)
How much are those wheels by Peter? Looks interesting
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
The blue accents rock.
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;D ;D ;D
few more details and we are ready for first ride
It looks spectacular.
What metrics and what amount of bolts are needed to replace the ones that come with the frame?
I have just ordered my frame :)
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They are all standard M5 bolts. If you're not going to mount things, I recommend rubber M5 bungs for the cleanest look and least weight.
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I took Nylon Screws from Ali
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hi, someone tried to fit some big 650b tyres?
the idea is to use some 2.2"/2.25" mtb tyres if possible
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totally recommend BUCKLOS 4$ Gravel bar tape and totally wouldn't recommend ZRace brake hoses
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One question to buyers who don't use the Tideace handlebar:
Do you have any issues adjusting the headset play? Me and another buyer have the issue that the Tideace handlebar sits so tight on the fork with the reduction sleeve that you cannot adjust the headset play. You only loosen the expander after some time ...
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No problems with my Lexon Unox.
On my road bike I use an EXS aerover with a sleeve. It is also very tight, and makes it difficult to adust the preload. They key is too get it as tight as possible by hand before tightening the top cap.
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I did that but I still have horizontal play in the headset. You can move the fork from front to back and I also "screw" the expander out of the fork while tightening the top cap. I send a video to Tideace and ordered a different sleeve from Ritchey. You can see it here how tight the handlebar sits on the fork: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/B0P6u2X49Pw
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Yeah that's definitely a problem! Can recommend the Unox bars.
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Yeah thats on my list if the Ritchey sleeve do not work and Tideace has no other solution.
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Yeah same, good price. Or a used black inc bar. Can someone tell me how wide the bars are on the middle where you can hold the bars?
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No issues here, but I'm using a Redshift stem and typical aluminum bar.
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Question - Is the T47 inboard or outboard?
I'm still pretty undecided on a groupset. Sram eTap is much easier and cheaper to source locally. Easy to dissemble for traveling. But man I really don't like the braking performance of Sram which is kind of important for gravel. The braking modularity on Shimano's latest stuff is superb. But Di2 seems like overkill if I go 1x
Get MANA disc rotors from AliExpress. I am using then with SRAM rival and they are great. Plus look cool https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQWbUYU
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Pulled the trigger today.
Here is my built list. Very exciting. First china frame and first bike with electric SRAM
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totally recommend BUCKLOS 4$ Gravel bar tape and totally wouldn't recommend ZRace brake hoses
Is that the Chameleon White? If yes, how is the color IRL - is it chameleon or mostly “just” white?
Br.
Andreas
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Frame is out for delivery :)
(https://i.ibb.co/1v0rWqQ/IMG-20241214-WA0000.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gjrSKT9)
Ok ordered the frame today.
Specs:
Tideace Noah custom paint (58)(pearl white 61 with black 63)
Wheels Reynolds ATR
HB 008 handlebar
Sram red XLPR groupset (from excisting
Fizik 3d saddle
SPECIALIZED pathfinder Pro 42mm tyres
Excited to build this bike. Soon another Tideace Noah in Holland.
I'm gonna sell my Grizl CF SLX 8 suspension frame. So if you are interested
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For the Tideace bar: Apart from the too narrow sleeve the compression ring is also trash. After tightening the ahead cap the fork could still move about 0,5 mm from front to back. I changed the ring against the one that is coming with the frames headset cap and also compresses the fork in the front. Everything is fine now with the side effect that the gap to the frame increases and no more shims are needed. Just for everyone who also has issues with the handlebar and headset play.
https://imgur.com/a/NrU9KcR
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
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Almost finished my GR201, just need to confirm my fit before I get everything set.
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
Which stem do you want to use?
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Frame size: 58, weight: 8.6 kg without power meter and pedals, 9 kg with power meter and pedals.
Components:
• Wheels: DT ER1400 Dicut
• Tires: Panaracer Gravelking SS R 40 mm
• Groupset: Mechanical SRAM Rival/Force with Garbaruk cassette, chainring and cage/pulleys
• Brakes: TRP Spyre
• Seatpost: Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic
• Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax
• Saddle: Lunje Carbon (looking for a replacement for my beloved but heavy Brooks)
• Stem: No-name (testing fit for now). An 80 mm was too long for me (my height is 186.5 cm); I’ll switch to a 70 mm Thomson.
By the next season, I plan to upgrade to an electric SRAM Rival and GX T-Type mullet setup and build a beefy carbon wheelset. I noticed Peter being mentioned here, so I’ll check that out.
Pros:
• The paintwork and carbon finish are excellent (except for the seatpost, which looks so-so).
• Storage box is cool.
• The headset is decent.
• Packaging was great; everything arrived perfectly.
• Eddie is loyal and responsive.
Minor cons:
• I don't like the seatpost clamp outwardly.
• Axles are heavy.
• Bolts are heavy.
• The front derailleur mount was installed before the lacquer dried, leaving unsightly marks underneath.
• Assembly recommendations would be helpful: what plugs go where, which holes are for which cables, etc.
Major cons:
• The rear axle is too long.
I still don’t understand why; there are no similar reports on the forums, but my 171 mm axle doesn’t clamp the wheel—it leaves a 2 mm play.
Thanks to Eddie for quickly sending me a shorter axle with no questions asked, but the root cause remains unclear. For now, I’ve temporarily solved the issue by using a washer from another UDH hanger on the brake side, which allows the wheel to clamp properly. However, the contact point is now against the painted part of the frame, which isn’t ideal.
I transitioned from a steel Seaboard CX07, and my first impressions are as follows:
The bike is very responsive, easy to drive, but stable at the back. It is quite hard when pedaling, while riding comfortably off-road.
P.S. Magene P505 Spider fits good, there is a lot of space up to the frame
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Which stem do you want to use?
For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.
I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.
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For the sake of putting it all out there, I’ll be running a Fox 32 TC suspension fork and I’d like to end up using my PNW Coast bar and something like a Cane Creek GXC stem but I was going to fit a few old stems of different sizes first to figure a length out first.
I wish the frame had traditional ports on the down tube but since it doesn’t I’m assuming I’ll need to go in via the headset.
If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.
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If the Tantan frame comes also with the same headset like the Tideace, you can see the cable routing on Lupus build. It goes below the stem into the frame.
Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.
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Yep that’s my ideal solution, if I had realized it ahead of time I probably would’ve just ordered from them instead but I took it for granted that the frame would have traditional ports. I’m trying to get more info on the headset mine will ship with but the pictures look different than the Tideace headset.
I've got the tan tan frame, the upper headset bearing is a 40×52x7 45/45. The cables are routed through the middle of the bearing. I'm using a deda superbox stem and topcap and the DCR compression ring ( you have to shave it down a few mm on top) to make it fully I eternal but the bike also comes with a headset cap with holes if you don't want to going through the stem.
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Other solution if you want to through the stem is FSA FSA because it matches the bearing height of 7 mm.
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Frame size: 58, weight: 8.6 kg without power meter and pedals, 9 kg with power meter and pedals.
Components:
• Wheels: DT ER1400 Dicut
• Tires: Panaracer Gravelking SS R 40 mm
• Groupset: Mechanical SRAM Rival/Force with Garbaruk cassette, chainring and cage/pulleys
• Brakes: TRP Spyre
• Seatpost: Ritchey WCS Carbon Link Flexlogic
• Handlebar: Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax
• Saddle: Lunje Carbon (looking for a replacement for my beloved but heavy Brooks)
• Stem: No-name (testing fit for now). An 80 mm was too long for me (my height is 186.5 cm); I’ll switch to a 70 mm Thomson.
By the next season, I plan to upgrade to an electric SRAM Rival and GX T-Type mullet setup and build a beefy carbon wheelset. I noticed Peter being mentioned here, so I’ll check that out.
Pros:
• The paintwork and carbon finish are excellent (except for the seatpost, which looks so-so).
• Storage box is cool.
• The headset is decent.
• Packaging was great; everything arrived perfectly.
• Eddie is loyal and responsive.
Minor cons:
• I don't like the seatpost clamp outwardly.
• Axles are heavy.
• Bolts are heavy.
• The front derailleur mount was installed before the lacquer dried, leaving unsightly marks underneath.
• Assembly recommendations would be helpful: what plugs go where, which holes are for which cables, etc.
Major cons:
• The rear axle is too long.
I still don’t understand why; there are no similar reports on the forums, but my 171 mm axle doesn’t clamp the wheel—it leaves a 2 mm play.
Thanks to Eddie for quickly sending me a shorter axle with no questions asked, but the root cause remains unclear. For now, I’ve temporarily solved the issue by using a washer from another UDH hanger on the brake side, which allows the wheel to clamp properly. However, the contact point is now against the painted part of the frame, which isn’t ideal.
I transitioned from a steel Seaboard CX07, and my first impressions are as follows:
The bike is very responsive, easy to drive, but stable at the back. It is quite hard when pedaling, while riding comfortably off-road.
P.S. Magene P505 Spider fits good, there is a lot of space up to the frame
Really nice build!
This is an example of a simple, yet beautiful frame/bike
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Build in progress
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Incoming...
Looking very much forward to the final build...
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After 16 days of floating out at sea, my frame has finally hit American shores. Hopefully it will get here by xmas.
I ordered integrated bars but will probably use a separate bar/stem combo with the FSA no.69 headset system.
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I'm working on my first bike build using this frame (ordered from Tantan) and I'm looking to avoid a fully integrated cockpit - I've already got a bar and stem I like. If there's anybody here who is familiar with the headset that arrives from Tantan/Seraph and could give me more info about my routing options I'd really appreciate it. I don't see that there's any ports on the downtube so I'm hoping I can do that through the headset without the accompanying bar and stem. Failing that I'll need to find a compatible headset that can route brake hose (I'm going AXS) so if you have suggestions there please let me know - thanks!
Update here: after emailing tantan to explain what I needed they have the appropriate headset for semi-integrated routing and are sending it to me.
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Using Tufo thunderos 48 on a 28ID rim there seems plenty of space measuring 49.6mm , I'm going to be giving it a go with at least 2.1 at some point.
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Using Tufo thunderos 48 on a 28ID rim there seems plenty of space measuring 49.6mm , I'm going to be giving it a go with at least 2.1 at some point.
Also running these tyres, sure the front is fine but I think you're close to the limit on the rear.
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question: is the frame GR201 you can find on tan tan the same as the one from tideace GV201?
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question: is the frame GR201 you can find on tan tan the same as the one from tideace GV201?
Yes
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Any folks running this frame with a 2x setup? And if so, what chainring size?
Dylan Johnson uses a Shimano 2x for his Felt gravel bike with MTB tires. Quarq/DUB spider power meter. I can't tell if the chain rings are Shimano road or GRX.
On my current Yoeleo G21 gravel build I'm running a Shimano road 2x 50/34 chainrings with shims. 42c tire clears the front derailleur.
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Built finished and ready to rumble :)
Did a small test ride and first impression is GREAT !!!, feels verry solid and stiff but too short to get a real good judgement but is promising ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yDRgTNJ/IMG-5397-1.avif)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcMG9H0b/IMG-5391-3.avif)
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Also running these tyres, sure the front is fine but I think you're close to the limit on the rear.
Yeah I did see that, will still give it a go. I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap 2.1 on ebay etc.
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Built finished and ready to rumble :)
Did a small test ride and first impression is GREAT !!!, feels verry solid and stiff but too short to get a real good judgement but is promising ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yDRgTNJ/IMG-5397-1.avif)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcMG9H0b/IMG-5391-3.avif)
Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
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Any folks running this frame with a 2x setup? And if so, what chainring size?
Dylan Johnson uses a Shimano 2x for his Felt gravel bike with MTB tires. Quarq/DUB spider power meter. I can't tell if the chain rings are Shimano road or GRX.
On my current Yoeleo G21 gravel build I'm running a Shimano road 2x 50/34 chainrings with shims. 42c tire clears the front derailleur.
I've done 105/Ultegra Di2 2x12s 50/34 front 11-34 rear
Should be fine with powermeter but I picked RiRo carbon cranks without one to make it sub 8kg
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Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
[/quote]
Thank you and hell yeah finish your bike, you won't regret it ;D
The wheels are from lightbicycle https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html (https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html)
With Hope hubs.
Very nice wheels to ride
Tires are Panaracer Gravelkings SK+R45 mm. https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre (https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre)
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First Ride today.
Today it was shitty weather, rain, stormy wind but i want to ride my new GR201 and yeah despite of the weather it was Great !!! I did 54k on it.
My impressions:
- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
- Bike feels solid and not a single rattle or creak was heard. Frame feels stiff
- I haven't weighed the frame yet, but it feels oke, I expected it to be much worse. I don't have a measuring device to weigh it so ...
- The handlebar from Tantan HB047 size 380x110 feels good, nice flat section for the hoods where you rest the palm of your hands. Also stiff no much flex.
I do not understand why they have a insert to clamp it.... It fits but was a bit of a hassle to get it right. Also sharp edges on the inside for the cable routing when you pull the cable through, but certenly for the price a good bar. I have no play in the headset but did not checked it after my ride. I did changed the top bearing for a 7mm , I found the space between the top cab and frame too large
- I ordered the frame from Tantan because it compared to the other providers but for me the best deal and they had a raw carbone in stock which was important for me to have it as quickly as possible, the order was problem free at Tantan. Lisa was easily accessible. emails were answered quickly due to the time difference.
Delivery was complete, spacers, bearings and tool bag
Overall I am very satisfied with the bike and built. It is my 3rd open mold frame and I can say that the quality of this frame is the best so far. The build was relatively problem-free, except for a few minor issues. I compared many frames with each other, but I always ended up with the GR201 because it is the most complete frame for now (In the open mold frames)The post from Gloscherrybomb was also an eye opener for me and a reason for me to order the frame and i don't regret it so far
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- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
Nice. I'm 183cm tall as well, and ordered a size 54 with 110 stem handlebars. This makes me feel good about sizing LoL
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Holy crap. You have me hyped for my build.
Details on those wheels and tires please.
Thank you and hell yeah finish your bike, you won't regret it ;D
The wheels are from lightbicycle https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html (https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-road-bicycle-rims-28mm-wide-55mm-deep-symmetric-clincher-road-disc-brake-available.html)
With Hope hubs.
Very nice wheels to ride
Tires are Panaracer Gravelkings SK+R45 mm. https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre (https://www.panaracer.eu/products/gravelking-sk-r-line-tlr-gravel-tyre)
I have the same wheels, hand built but theyre solid. Work great on my noah. Just wish they were wider.
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- Bike fits me realy well, I have size 54 and 110/38 handlebar and i'm 1.83m. I was doubting about the size 54 or 56 but i'm gladd to make the choice for the 54. It feels like my road bike S-works SL8 size 56 so thats fine.
Funny, I'm exactly thinking about the same issue, 52/54 or 56, I have compared to the SL8 geometry. And I'm still unsure about wheter the GR201 is to aggressive in 54 or smaller, 56 maybe is to slack in seat tube
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Frame is almost arriving so I can build it the next weeks.
Normally i use 160 Sram brake rotors. Do i need a adapter with this frame?
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Yes, the one that come with the brakes
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Yes, the one that come with the brakes
This one right?
https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/remdeel-sram-achter-adapter-flat-mount-160mm-20f-zwart/9200000074988493/
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You can look it up in here
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/aftermarket/disc-brake-caliper-mounting-specifications-for-road-and-mtb.pdf
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Received my frame from Longteng in early November. Size 54 completely raw frame, everything looks quite nice. Only small issue was I paid for a headset expecting to receive some kind of full headset with top cover and compression ring, but all they sent was bearings and an unneeded crown race. I purchased this very nice Neco headset from AliExpress and it's a perfect fit. It creates a very good seal and should stop dirt and water from ingress while still using a conventional stem and bar.
Still undecided on this one, I may not build it after all. I'm growing very attached to my steel gravel rig, tire clearance issues and all. <3
I'm thinking of painting this frame and then selling it on to someone else, we'll see. Playing with some paint schemes and I'm liking this grainy, granite kinda texture for a gravel bike..what do y'all think?
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Almost have the whole build under control now, am however super confused about which crankset to use.
Will run a SRAM X01 Transmission derailleur which needs a 55mm chainline.
Was initially planning to use a SRAM Apex DUB Wide crankset, but can see that that states a chainline of only 47,5mm.
Can some of you gurus explain to me which crankset I should use? <3
Here is my frame by the way (from Tideace) :)
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You should be fine with the wide crankset. There are numerous of mullet builds with road cranksets.
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You should be fine with the wide crankset. There are numerous of mullet builds with road cranksets.
Even with the 55mm chainline of SRAM Transmission? Do I need to space out the chainring or similar?
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Sure. You can try a different chainring to optimize the chainline with a different offset.
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Realized I forgot to post my build for the winter months here in denmark.
I bought the TanTan version and the quality seems very good.
Build it up from parts from a crashed bike and what good offers I could find.
And yes you can fit a 48t chainring with sram DUB Wide. At least on a size 58.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9EwZJ5n7STsFzVYeA
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Finally finished my Tantan build
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What bar and stem are you running ?
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Realized I forgot to post my build for the winter months here in denmark.
I bought the TanTan version and the quality seems very good.
Build it up from parts from a crashed bike and what good offers I could find.
And yes you can fit a 48t chainring with sram DUB Wide. At least on a size 58.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9EwZJ5n7STsFzVYeA
Nice build but I doubt the 48t will last under muddy conditions w/o rubbing the chainstay. I think 46t is maximum under all conditions.
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Nice build but I doubt the 48t will last under muddy conditions w/o rubbing the chainstay. I think 46t is maximum under all conditions.
Yeah I agree. I also bought an Xcadey power meter and a 46t chainring to mount.
I just wanna tear down the aero power meter before throwing it out and i just ride tarmac here in the winter months. Gets so muddy and dirty at this time
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What bar and stem are you running ?
Deda superbox stem then a some BALUGOE 37cm bars from aliexpress
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Finally finished my Tantan build
Nice bike, looks like mine ;)
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Finally...we are live on the channel. After a month in transit. I am freakin' PUMPED.
Size 54 came in at 1338g with both hangers and all 14 mounting bolts. 3g each
110mm cockpit. I'm 6 feet tall / 183cm and ride a 56 Tarmac SL8 with a 140mm cockpit. Yikes.
YouTube Title Search: TanTan GR201 Gravel - Big Brands Should Be VERY Afraid
https://youtu.be/HFqopxYkIPA?si=BHr-YXTRdPDReLcV
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Did anyone try this frame with Schwalbe Thunder Burts (or any other 2.1 tire)?
I'm starting to pick all the parts while I'm waiting for the frame to ship but I'm still undecided on the tires. I need two pairs:
- Fast tires in the 35-40mm range for road: guess it'll be either the Hutchinson Caracal Race 40mm or the Schwalbe Pro One in 38mm
- 50mm+ gravel tire: either the Thunder Burt if it fits, or one between the Continental Terra hard pack or the new Schwalbe G One tire
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Finally finished my Tantan build
I really like your build. What seatpost is that?
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Finally...we are live on the channel. After a month in transit. I am freakin' PUMPED.
Size 54 came in at 1338g with both hangers and all 14 mounting bolts. 3g each
110mm cockpit. I'm 6 feet tall / 183cm and ride a 56 Tarmac SL8 with a 140mm cockpit. Yikes.
YouTube Title Search: TanTan GR201 Gravel - Big Brands Should Be VERY Afraid
https://youtu.be/HFqopxYkIPA?si=BHr-YXTRdPDReLcV
Love that champagne gold color.
I am 189cm with 90,5cm inseam and decided to go with the 58. Since I see a couple of you guys with only a few centimeters less going with 54 I am starting to question my decision.
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Love that champagne gold color.
I am 189cm with 90,5cm inseam and decided to go with the 58. Since I see a couple of you guys with only a few centimeters less going with 54 I am starting to question my decision.
Your inseam is way longer than the guys who are 'sizing down'. Unless you're extremely flexible, 58 is likely right for you.
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I really like your build. What seatpost is that?
Just the standard seatpost that came with the frame
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Pardon the mess. I'm currently still building my GR201, while simultaneously stripping down old bike to be sold off. The build is almost finished. Just have bleed the brakes and mount my gravel wheels/tires.
For anyone thinking about getting this frame, please be extremely cautious with your sizing consideration. I mounted road wheels to the frame to offer a visual comparison against my road bikes.
Left: GR201 (172.5 cranks, size 54, 110mm stem)
Middle: Polygon Helios (172.5 cranks, size 56, front end set up more for endurance, 140mm stem)
Right: Tarmac SL8 (170 cranks, size 56, 140mm stem, raised saddle and handlebars to compensate shorter cranks.)
As you can see even with 15mm of spacers the GR201 is only barely even at the front end. The shallower drops will compensate. Also too the bottom bracket drop on this frame is much deeper/than a standard road bike by at least 10mm. Is in reality the saddle to bar drop isn't as extreme.
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The geometry follows the current crop of longer reach / shorter stems geometry gravel bikes. The main difference with the Tideace compared to others is that is has a very low stack.
Comparing the numbers in the 52 to the current Canyon Grail in size S (essentially the intended size for a ~175cm rider), the numbers are very similar except for a 40mm(!) smaller stack on the Tideace, coming from the short head tube. The Canyon is designed around the use of a 70mm stem (around 100mm is normal for that size) and I suspect that the Tideace is similar in that respect.
I expect the best starting point would be - exactly as you've gone for Pat - 30mm shorter than what you typically use on the road. That's worked for me too.
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
That's interesting as Eddy said, it wouldn't be an issue with Ultegra 50/34 Chainrings.. Sad to hear it won't work with Chainrings >46
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I am 178 cms you think 54 is too big? It looks like I’m on the border
Pardon the mess. I'm currently still building my GR201, while simultaneously stripping down old bike to be sold off. The build is almost finished. Just have bleed the brakes and mount my gravel wheels/tires.
For anyone thinking about getting this frame, please be extremely cautious with your sizing consideration. I mounted road wheels to the frame to offer a visual comparison against my road bikes.
Left: GR201 (172.5 cranks, size 54, 110mm stem)
Middle: Polygon Helios (172.5 cranks, size 56, front end set up more for endurance, 140mm stem)
Right: Tarmac SL8 (170 cranks, size 56, 140mm stem, raised saddle and handlebars to compensate shorter cranks.)
As you can see even with 15mm of spacers the GR201 is only barely even at the front end. The shallower drops will compensate. Also too the bottom bracket drop on this frame is much deeper/than a standard road bike by at least 10mm. Is in reality the saddle to bar drop isn't as extreme.
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Quick Question:
I was playing around with setting up a 2x drivetrain using a SRAM Force road front derailleur. 48/35 chainring.
However, the derailleur hanger on the GR201 frame is too far inboard to attach the derailleur mounting bolt.
Is this by design? I know technically 46t is the max, but a smaller chainring still wouldn't solve this. Would I need some sort of derailleur hanger outboard extender?
Sram's DUB spindle and T47i road setup requires a 3mm spacer on the drive side per their user guide. I wonder if that's where the issue lies. Of course if I removed the spacer the 48t outer chainring would probably scrape the chain stay LoL
Hey there!
There is a specific front wide derailleur. Make sure that yours is wide and not “normal”.
I assume that you are using wide cranks. Rose from TanTan told me that at least for 1x the way to go is wide.
I attach here the specs for the dub spacers in case it is useful for any of you guys.
Looking forward to see your build finished Pat!
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My build is pretty much complete for now. Sram eTap makes building up bikes quick work. Currently running a Sram Force road set until I bite the bullet and upgrade to Eagle GX T-Type, chain, and cassette. Photos to come.
A few of things to note:
1. The included headset/handlebar spacers make zero sense. Since you have to route the hydro cables through the specific front holes on spacers, you can't exactly remove them should you decide later to make changes to your handlebar height. You could of course take a Dremel to make a split cut to accommodate the cables. But these type of considerations are standard from more premium brands. Correct me if I'm doing something wrong...
2. TanTan not providing any sort of manual or torque settings is annoying. This used to not bother me since most torque specs are consistent. Seatpost 5-6Nm, Stem bolts 5-6Nm, Derailleurs bolts etc. But again, little stuff like this goes a long way. No torque instructions for the 6mm expander plug bolt. The plug slips upward at 8Nm when pre-loading the top cap bolt. Will probably switch to a Neco long expander plug. No torque settings on the seat post clamp or saddle rail clamps.
3. Both the bottom bracket and caliper mount facings are excellent on my frame. My T47 BB installed flawlessly. And I was able to align both calipers just as quickly as any western brand. 10 minutes tops. Wish I could say the same for both my previous Tan Tan road frames. There was always slight disc rubbing somewhere.
@Angelinho - I actually found a set of wide cranks in my parts bin. Once my 44t chainring arrives next week I'll make the switch. Thanks for the tip!
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Can someone explain to me what the difference is between tantan and Tideace?
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Can someone explain to me what the difference is between tantan and Tideace?
I think Tantan is the manufacturer, Tideace is a reseller but i'm not sure
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@ patliean1
The expander is trash as well as the top cap with bolt. I replaced both parts before the build. The same for the bearings.
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I think Tantan is the manufacturer, Tideace is a reseller but i'm not sure
I think you are right. Longteng (LTK) seems that is another reseller.
In the Instagram posts from TanTan they include in the description that they accept OEM and ODM.
I do have for example a Megamo Track frame that is made by TanTan and is also used if I am not wrong by Ridley.
I wouldn't be surprised if any brand that uses open mould frames includes this frame in their catalog.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
This is exactly what I asked, down to the specific Pantone colour ID (with the only difference being I requested no Seraph branding):
(http://sc04.alicdn.com/kf/H91a53acc69ed4d2ca25eddefbba0915dB/228010032/H91a53acc69ed4d2ca25eddefbba0915dB.jpg)
This is the preview pic they sent me for my frame:
(https://i.imghippo.com/files/ujgG1532qIM.jpg)
I already wrote to back to ask to get it fixed (wrong colors/too light, fading mid-frame that I didn't even ask for, and "ripple effect" not really well applied).
Let's see if they can make up for it...
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
I already wrote to back to ask to get it fixed (wrong colors/too light, fading mid-frame that I didn't even ask for, and "ripple effect" not really well applied).
Let's see if they can make up for it...
How'd they mess up their OWN paint scheme? It's not like you asked them to copy something else! ::) ;D
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Painting in the making
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One of the biggest flaws in Asian sellers comes with paint finishing.
Even that I chose a simple white chameleon matte paint, my frame comes in glossy finish. They have offered a 15$ computer mount but I don't think that's the way to solve it.
However the frame looks quite nice IMO.
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Looks like Tantan is not so reliable when it comes to paint jobs?! Hope my Tideace will look like expected. Should be finished tmrw according to Eddy.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
That looks bad... I have one at tantan with custom paint being made, hope it looks better than that. Definitely happy I didn't do any "special" effect, however the matte finish I hope they can at least sort out.
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I asked a custom paint from Tantan but they messed up so badly it's almost funny I gotta say...
As an update for this situation: first I received a proposal for a $50 discount if I accepted the frame with the terrible paint job, which is hilarious considering I paid 8x more for the specific custom paint, so I refused.
So the conclusion: since I still want the paint I requested and the Chinese holidays are coming soon, they will restart production again, but now the frame won't get shipped until half of March.
Keep in mind I paid at the end of November...
Also apparently they now do not paint the plastic lid/cover anymore, since they can't guarantee it will close correctly.
Kinda weird to be honest, but I accepted to get the lid in black now (initially I asked and got an OK for a painted lid).
I didn't want to overcomplicate things, since they're already struggling with basic requests.
I'm kinda mad cause I had all the parts coming in now and was ready to build it up for the first race at the very beginning of March, but now I'll have to wait almost 3 months just to start building it....
At this point I just hope they finally understood what I actually requested.
For the other people that have already asked Tantan for a paint: you need to talk to them like you would with toddlers or a bot like chatGPT.
Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
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Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
Which is absolutely wild considering it was their OWN paint job design.
I'll try and remind myself to mention the potential horrors of TanTan's custom paint in my upcoming video. My build is actually finished...
...BUT literally earlier today I stumbled on a deal for the latest SRAM Red 13 Speed XPLR set. So I now gotta wait for that to arrive in a couple weeks, freakin disassemble my currently Force D1 groupset, and get that Red installed.
Thankfully it's winter here so there really isn't a huge rush.
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Thanks for the supporting of Tideace Manufacturer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgEUEFSnzXM
Welcome to visit our factory.
Happy New Year Everyone in this forum.
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As an update for this situation: first I received a proposal for a $50 discount if I accepted the frame with the terrible paint job, which is hilarious considering I paid 8x more for the specific custom paint, so I refused.
So the conclusion: since I still want the paint I requested and the Chinese holidays are coming soon, they will restart production again, but now the frame won't get shipped until half of March.
Keep in mind I paid at the end of November...
Also apparently they now do not paint the plastic lid/cover anymore, since they can't guarantee it will close correctly.
Kinda weird to be honest, but I accepted to get the lid in black now (initially I asked and got an OK for a painted lid).
I didn't want to overcomplicate things, since they're already struggling with basic requests.
I'm kinda mad cause I had all the parts coming in now and was ready to build it up for the first race at the very beginning of March, but now I'll have to wait almost 3 months just to start building it....
At this point I just hope they finally understood what I actually requested.
For the other people that have already asked Tantan for a paint: you need to talk to them like you would with toddlers or a bot like chatGPT.
Basically you have to make sure they get all the instructions point by point, because if there's anything you've left for granted, there's a chance they might fuck it up unfortunately.
Ah that sucks big time.
Tbh, I would ask for a raw carbon frame and do the paint at a local paintshop.
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
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This is my temporary setup for now...
Nice. I'm kinda confused why you went for this frame though with such a roadie setup, as the tyre width, UDH and geo are the standout features. If you are only going 40mm and 2x the range of available frames to suit becomes very big indeed. Is it to future proof for more technical gravel?
Great job on the Nero show btw.
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Nice. I'm kinda confused why you went for this frame though with such a roadie setup, as the tyre width, UDH and geo are the standout features. If you are only going 40mm and 2x the range of available frames to suit becomes very big indeed. Is it to future proof for more technical gravel?
Great job on the Nero show btw.
Thanks!
What happened was when I was almost finished with the build, I just so happened to strike a deal for the new Red XPLR.
1. Waiting for the Sram Red 1x13 XPLR groupset that I ordered to arrive. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.
2. Once installed, I'll be running either a set of Pathfinder Pro 47 or Conti Terra Speed 45 paired w/ 58mm deep FarSport wheels.
3. In the meantime I still would like to be able to test ride the bike and dial in my fit. 2x and 40mm tires are just stuff I had lying around.
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
Maybe I can help, I'm having the same decision in terms of frame size.
I'm sitting at 75 cm height. I tend to take the 54 frame, because of its steeper seat angle and slacker steering angle, therefore being a bit more stable in terms of steering. But I will need around 3cm of spacers to get in my favorable position in terms of bar height. This would be way easier with the 56.
I don't think there is a right or a wrong option for you, if you want to go more in a road racing position even the 52 frame could be an option (has the same reach as the SL8 in 56)
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
That looks beautiful and clean! Congrats for the build!
Were you able to solve the issue with the stock expander plug? Or did you have to use something different? I'd like to have all the stuff prepared before the frame arrives and if it didn't work for you I'd love to know what do I need to have everything perfect.
Another doubt: can you tell us the metrics of the mounting bolts around the frame? I have already 6 M5 X 10mm but I have doubts about the length that they have in the seat stays and the fork.
Looking forward that Red XPLR build!
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Thanks!
What happened was when I was almost finished with the build, I just so happened to strike a deal for the new Red XPLR.
1. Waiting for the Sram Red 1x13 XPLR groupset that I ordered to arrive. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.
2. Once installed, I'll be running either a set of Pathfinder Pro 47 or Conti Terra Speed 45 paired w/ 58mm deep FarSport wheels.
3. In the meantime I still would like to be able to test ride the bike and dial in my fit. 2x and 40mm tires are just stuff I had lying around.
Now that sounds like a setup! I have the Evo5/6 wheels on my road bike. I've also got the Yoeleos (gifted) which I would probably put on the gravel bike over the Farsports because of the steel spokes, however I got Peter from the forum to build be some wavy gravel wheels instead.
Would love to try the Red AXS XPLR but also can't really fault either the Ltwoo or Wheeltop... wheeltop now the chosen one because of better 50T support.
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You can run eTap road 2x with 40c (41.5mm measured at the rim). For sure on dry roads. Can probably fit 42-44 on Shimano 2x. I really don't need anything wider than 38/40s within a 4 hour drive. The gravel around here is packed and tamed.
This is my temporary setup for now...
You only think You don't need wider. Once you try something like 45 you'll never got back to 40. I guarantee
I can personally recommend TuFO thundero
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Is there a dedicated fender eyelet at the seatstay junction? Apparently there are two rack eyelets, but nothing for fender mounting there. I wonder(hope) if there is one facing downward, on the underside of the seatstay junction.
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There is one insert behind the bottom bracket for fenders.
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Let me know what you think I have enjoyed my @canyon Grizl for three years and I will certainly continue to do so. But the Grizl is an all-rounder that does not excel in pure speed. That's why I decided to build a new gravel bike.
After an extensive search for a suitable gravel frame, I came across @Tideace. They have been supplying very nice gravel and road frames for years and the N.O.A.H. gravel immediately caught the eye. A modern geometry with a robust look.
Build the complete bike last week and today the first test ride. First feeling: "how fast and direct this bike is". I'm completely turned now! This is what I am currently looking for in a gravel bike.
I will share som building tips on my Instagram account. @cyclewithjouke in the weeks.
Below you will find the complete setup:
Frame: @Tideace NOAH
Handlebar: Lexon Unox 40cm gravelbar
Wheels: @zipp 303 s XPLR
Tyres: @Goodyear 45mm XPLR slicks
Groupset: @Sram XPLR
Front chainring: 40t @alugear
OSPW: @Novaride
Saddle: @prologo Scratch M5 Nack (Carbon)
Pedals: @Garmin rally
(https://i.ibb.co/VVsPLyF/20250105-105038.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9n7CpXx)
(https://i.ibb.co/SsCM32v/20250105-104751.jpg) (https://ibb.co/znvB41f)
(https://i.ibb.co/4p5b1QB/20250105-105100.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DQSBrq3)
(https://i.ibb.co/kG5bXdX/20250105-104704.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZfG4xZx)
(https://i.ibb.co/SsdmRSZ/20250105-104652.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tmx28R1)
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Hot dang! Now that is a gravel build. And extra kudos on the Nova Ride OSPW. Thanks for sharing!
I assume the cassette is a 10-44t?
Any issues with tire side wall cuts on those Goodyears paired with the XPLR Zipp Wheels? I have not heard great things about those tires from both consumers and even Sram employees.
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Hot dang! Now that is a gravel build. And extra kudos on the Nova Ride OSPW. Thanks for sharing!
I assume the cassette is a 10-44t?
Any issues with tire sidewall cuts on those Goodyears paired with the XPLR Zipp Wheels? I have not heard great things about those tires from both consumers and even SRAM employees.
Thanks!
It is indeed a 10-44t cassette. I always ride this cassette with a 40 or 42 front chainring.
For now, I am really impressed by the wheels in combination with these tires. I have not seen any issues so far.
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@patliean1
Can you elaborate further on your body measurements (inseam and height) in conjunction with and sizing of the frame, saddle height and cockpit setup.
I'm hesitant on either a 54 or 56 on this frame, and usually ride a ~56 on road/gravel with a saddle height of ~77-78cm
Care to share your thoughts?
I have roughly the same measurements as you and also spent quite some time considering if it should be a 54 or 56. At the end I chose 56.
Slamming the stem and running with a 90 or 100mm stem will give me roughly the same stack as on my road bike (Scott Foil) while having ~30mm shorter reach to add some comfort.
Br,
Andreas
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@ Jouke Bosma
Very nice. Love the colour matched storage cover.
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Anyone running a double front with P505 powermeter? Wondering if it fits and works like intended. Still haven't decided what powermeter I want for my bike.
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Is the 435 chainstay measurement on this frame accurate? Some photos I see the wheel looks very “tucked” and others the gap looks huge! Obviously tire size plays a part there.
This is my only reservation, having never ridden a bike longer than 425 I’m pretty sure I would notice the extra length.
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Yes, it’s 435. I measured it for the XPLR chainlength.
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My Tideace frame is on its way.
https://imgur.com/a/dCZON65
No bolts in fork
Lexon Unox Gravel Cockpit and Wheelset (Nextie SGX with DT240 Hubs) is ordered. Hope it does not take too long (I was told 5-7 weeks).
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
Why would you do it yourself? The paintjob of Tideace is good. And you pay around €150,-
I can't do it myself for that money
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I’m doing a custom paintjob here locally, cost 600-800euro…
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What Jouke Bosma says … I have now received the second frame (road bike) and the paint job is excellent. There are western bike brands with lower paint quality.
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Why would you do it yourself? The paintjob of Tideace is good. And you pay around €150,-
I can't do it myself for that money
Yeah I could pay the extra for it to be done professionally, but I'd like to do it myself as part of a long term project. I've done a couple of old frames and it's something I'm interested in doing.
It might not be as good a job as what they'd do, but it'll be my own work which is cool, to me anyway. Others might disagree
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Listing on Tantans website says 1-1/2" 52MM x 2 for the headset but no mention of the fork. When I asked I was told this was also 1 1/2". Can anyone confirm this? If so, can someone recommend me a nice stem (integrated or semi integrated)? Was planning on going with a Deda Vinci and my own handlebars.
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Both 52x40x7, 45x45 - no crown race needed (integrated)
I would suggest a DCR Superbox as you plan to use a Deda Bar. You just need the c ring: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/de/deda-kompressionsring-fur-dcr-system/138244301/p?srsltid=AfmBOopIZXGT-u7D2k-0OMeY5cQ_thyeEufLTwOtE90FNPyjLvG7m4O_
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I would suggest a DCR Superbox as you plan to use a Deda Bar. You just need the c ring: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/de/deda-kompressionsring-fur-dcr-system/138244301/p?srsltid=AfmBOopIZXGT-u7D2k-0OMeY5cQ_thyeEufLTwOtE90FNPyjLvG7m4O_
Thanks! Ok, so that means the steerer tube is 1 1/4"?
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No, 1,5" to 1 1/8". See the Deda Specs here: https://dedaelementi.com/media/wysiwyg/dcr-tech/DCR_D-SHAPE_Fork_Technology_v1.pdf
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No, 1,5" to 1 1/8". See the Deda Specs here: https://dedaelementi.com/media/wysiwyg/dcr-tech/DCR_D-SHAPE_Fork_Technology_v1.pdf
Sorry, 1/8th is what I meant. Ok, thanks!
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Has anyone self painted this frame? If so did you paint the storage cover as well? Assume the cover is plastic?
Thinking of doing this myself and from the frames I've seen here those with the matching cover do look good.
Working on just this right now. Frame is primed and I'll start painting sometime this week/early next week. Yes, I'm painting the plastic cover. Masking around the latch on the cover and around the opening on the frame was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed in the end. I should have some photos of the finished product in a week or two
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Working on just this right now. Frame is primed and I'll start painting sometime this week/early next week. Yes, I'm painting the plastic cover. Masking around the latch on the cover and around the opening on the frame was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed in the end. I should have some photos of the finished product in a week or two
Cool, thanks!
I'd be really interested in hearing the process so far, or if you've got any photos of the masking.
Have you painted a frame before? If so how does this compare so far?
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I've painted quite a few. Mainly for myself, but also some frames and helmets for friends and family. Check out my Instagram link down there ⌄⌄ for some photos if you're interested.
Frame is frame lol. They're all the same thing when it comes to painting, even material choice doesn't make much of a difference if you take the time to prep. It's not difficult, just very time consuming. I ordered mine raw and it really cuts down on prep time. There's tons of great stuff on YouTube detailing frame prep and paint techniques from people who are much better than me. If you've never painted before, buy some speed shapes or some kind of round tubes and practice first to get the technique down.
Here's a couple quick shots.
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Can recommend the Speeder Cycling gravel bar with FSA ACR. You just need the change the top bearing because of the different angle (36 degrees). C ring sits nice and flush with the top cap. The gap is about 0,5 mm and retaining collars from bar to the c ring so nothing can move.
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Can recommend the Speeder Cycling gravel bar with FSA ACR. You just need the change the top bearing because of the different angle (36 degrees). C ring sits nice and flush with the top cap. The gap is about 0,5 mm and retaining collars from bar to the c ring so nothing can move.
Thanks. Looking for seperate stem and bars but integrated cabling. Will probably go with the Superbox and my current bars.
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The frame has arrived.
https://imgur.com/a/J0fE2c3
I like the color. Looks live even better than on the pictures. Will protect top tube and other areas with protection film.
Now waiting for Wheelset and groupset so that I can start assembling it.
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Just about made up my mind for this frame, down to the custom paint job. Before I pull the trigger I have a few questions.
I'm a tall dude, and still a little heavy, 193 with long legs and about 100 kgs now (though aiming for 95ish before the season starts up here), and size 47 shoes. Kind of worried about toe overlap so am considering 165 or 170 mm cranks (always rode 175). This should also help with my angles, not having my knees bump my stomach while riding in the drops. Are there any negative consequenses I should keep in mind? The frame should have no prolem with 125 kgs I assume? (Bikepacking during summer).
Can anyone recommend a good BB from Ali (around $50 tops)?
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No toe overlap with size 47 shoes and 175 mm cranks. I asked for the frame weight limit, should be 150 kg according to Eddy.
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Im also tall with 196cm and about 85-90kg. Ride with 175mm cranks and size 46/47 shoes and no problems what so ever.
I did manage to seize my bb. After removing, cleaning and regreasing the bb its fine again. Doesnt like this terrible weather
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
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First bicycle that I built up myself completely:
Frame in size 52. Colour 61 (chameleon white)
SRAM rival 40t + gx eagle axs (10-52) mullet
Elite wheels + tufo thundero 45mm
The One integrated handlebar (38cm)
Assembly was rather easy. Rear axle was too long though.
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Lookin like a white GR201 is getting popular among us :P
Here are few shots from first sunny day this year here.
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Cranks??
Lookin like a white GR201 is getting popular among us :P
Here are few shots from first sunny day this year here.
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RiRo 24mm axle
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beSwiss, what is your saddle height? Could you measure the conventional seattube length (bb to toptube) please? Can't decide if I go 52 or 49, concerned about standover and minimal seatpost extension.
Kopyto, saddle height? Is that 52 too?
Thanks guys
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Size 54 im my case ;)
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Hi everyone!
Joining the club.
Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
The frame performed excellently: solid and responsive. It absorbed vibrations well, even though I used 40mm tires. The only drawback was that the glove compartment lid rattled slightly, and the storage bag wore through to holes due to the lower bottle cage mounts inside the frame.
As for the drivetrain—an absolute delight. Fast, smooth, precise, and not a single glitch the entire ride.
Yes, the weight went up a bit—now 8.8 kg without pedals.
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
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Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
Wow, you're in Kyrgyzstan! I've seen some footage of the Silk Road Mountain Race and the cycling there is breathtaking! Not to mention the Kyrgyz cuisine must taste amazing after a long bike ride! Just thinking about it, makes me hungry! The closest Kyrgyz restaurant to me is in Chicago. :-[
Nice bike as well! ;D
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
What was your experience with Tan Tan? Thinking of pulling the trigger very soon
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Wow, you're in Kyrgyzstan! I've seen some footage of the Silk Road Mountain Race and the cycling there is breathtaking! Not to mention the Kyrgyz cuisine must taste amazing after a long bike ride! Just thinking about it, makes me hungry! The closest Kyrgyz restaurant to me is in Chicago. :-[
Nice bike as well! ;D
Thank you!
By the way, I plan to ride the SRMR in 2025 (on a different bike, of course ;D)
Come to us in the summer, you will be able to eat delicious and a lot :)
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
Easier as „classic“ derailleurs. Just follow the steps from the official SRAM installation video. My only issue is that the removal of the rear axle is a l little bit fiddly. I have to push it from the drive side with e. g. a bit to get out. That was mentioned here on one of the first pages.
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I've finally built my frame. I'll post a few photos and impressions of the build shortly. Did my first ride today, I have an r8170 rear brake calliper with a 140mm disc. I've now noticed that the pad or the calliper is too far away, so the pad only grips about 75% of the brake disc. Has anyone noticed this yet?
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Did you remove the 160 mm adapter?
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Did you remove the 160 mm adapter?
Yes, new Brake calipers Always come without. No Adapter.
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How difficult or easy is it to setup Sram transmission derailleurs? Eagle or Red 13sp.
I haven't even ridden my finished build because Ive been waiting to swap the groupset. It's a shame really.
https://youtu.be/i3jtyDbXhEI?si=OCK76OtV5xGqC0q6
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I've finally built my frame. I'll post a few photos and impressions of the build shortly. Did my first ride today, I have an r8170 rear brake calliper with a 140mm disc. I've now noticed that the pad or the calliper is too far away, so the pad only grips about 75% of the brake disc. Has anyone noticed this yet?
It sounds like the 140mm rotor is it too small and you need a 160mm
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Special color painting available.
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A little sneak peek. I'm almost done with paint, the storage cover was a bit tricky. The fork isn't pictured, but it matches the headtube color/effect.
Last minute decision to add some logos and forego any kind of texture on the white portion. Working on the stencils now, should be ready to paint them on and add a couple final coats of clear in the next couple days.
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?
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What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?
That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
It’s good to know you have a good chain line with a sram wide crankset. I have a similar build in the works with a wide crankset and the red xplr direct mount RD.
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height :D
How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.
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How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.
Wouldn't recommend it, no. The compression ring is too short meaning that the headset cover couldn't clamp properly and I had headset play.
Ended up designing a C-shaped spacer which I 3d-printed and added between compression ring and headset cover and the headset play is gone.
The looong headset spacer you see on the picture is also 3d-printed by myself but is probably far too tall.
Will probably go down by 2,5cm when I dial in the rest of the bike.
That being said, I could share the 3d-files and you could have them printed locally, in which case the headset works great.
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My Noah is also finished, loving the ride!
(https://i.postimg.cc/pyw5dWxd/IMG-3275.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pyw5dWxd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dZy79XRv/IMG-3278.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dZy79XRv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LY7YLR1N/IMG-3279.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LY7YLR1N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/62T48Ty8/IMG-3283.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62T48Ty8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Rq6n93k8/IMG-3288.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rq6n93k8)
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That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.
This is great to know. I decided to order an Eagle GX T-Type derailleur/cassette and instead will be using the Sram Red 13sp on a different build.
I am completely clueless about chainline, and didn't even consider that Sram Eagle/MTB uses a different chainline than road.
Thankfully I had a Sram Force Dub-Wide road crankset lying around.
Weather here in Chicago has been colder than in years past for the winter. My GR201 has been fully built in its current state for over a month. Not a single ride yet :(
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I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire
I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of the tires.
The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.
I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.
REALLY nice build. I'm looking at the same frame, with a similar configuration, as I live near Alcoy, in Alicante, and my current XPLR 10-44 is not enought for me. Also the current 40mm limitation for tires in my frame makes me take the good option of leaving it to my wife (with 38T 10-44T) and get the GR201 mullet for me ;D
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Closed to finish
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Closed to finish
Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?
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Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?
Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy
https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d
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Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy
https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d
Thanks!!
That was my choice, 36 or 43! ;D
Now I now why they look almost the same.
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Here are some more pics. Really happy with the ride. Need to get to used to the new position (much longer than I normally ride) though.
Edit: since I am apparently not able to upload pictures here, you can find them at this link: https://imgur.com/a/gg5WnTE
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I am just in process of building my Noah, but have issues with massive headset play. I am using the Tideace c-ring and handlebars and suspect the c-ring to be out of tolerance or bad design with too little contact to the upper bearing.
I know a few others have had issues with the Tideace bars, but have anybody found a solution to using the original bars but with a better c-ring? Was looking at the Deda DCR headset, but measurements are not so easily found to verify compatibility.
Br.
Andreas
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Welcome to the club. I ended up changing the bar against one from Speeder Cycling.
You have several options:
a) I assume you are using the black c ring delivered with the handlebar. You can change it against the silver one delivered with the frame. That fixes the moving fork as it compresses also from the front. But you will end up in a large gap between headset and top cap. You can either sand down the top cap or (as I did for another frame) glue on a round piece of universal rubber seal under the top cap to close the gap.
b) The FSA ACR 55R headset sits nice in this frame. No gap between top cap and headtube. Also the top cap follows the form of the headtube. The only issue is that every Chinese handlebar uses its own style of spacer/nut combination. So you need a transition spacer from FSA ACR to the tideace ones (3d printed or you have to glue an FSA spacer and a tideace together).
c) Buy a new handlebar with better quality :-)
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I have just talked to Eddy about the handlebar issues. He was not fully aware of general problems yet, since he did not receive a lot of negative feedback from customers. I think it would be good, to report back to Tideace so that they can offer a better solution in the future.
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What's a good option for an integrated handlebar for this frame? Lenox one?
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For example although the Lexon top cap is about 1 mm larger than the headtube, so could be a nicer fit with the headtube. I can recommend the Speeder Cycling, its plug and play with no gap and nice fit to headtube:
https://www.speedercycling.com/Carbon-Integrated-Gravel-Flare-24-Handlebar-SC-GH02-_p414.html
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What's a good option for an integrated handlebar for this frame? Lenox one?
I am happy with the Lexon.
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Built one up
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Hi again,
I completed the build, with the SRAM GX and Rival shifters, and set out to test it around Issyk-Kul Lake (about 450 km), driving around it in two days. The temperature range from -27°C to 0°C. Out of the total distance, about a third was proper asphalt, and the rest was a mess of varying bad conditions (gravel, ice, snow).
The frame performed excellently: solid and responsive. It absorbed vibrations well, even though I used 40mm tires. The only drawback was that the glove compartment lid rattled slightly, and the storage bag wore through to holes due to the lower bottle cage mounts inside the frame.
As for the drivetrain—an absolute delight. Fast, smooth, precise, and not a single glitch the entire ride.
Yes, the weight went up a bit—now 8.8 kg without pedals.
Hi @Lupus can you say which handlebar/stem/aero bar you are using? I’m looking to do a setup like this. Thanks!
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Hi @Lupus can you say which handlebar/stem/aero bar you are using? I’m looking to do a setup like this. Thanks!
Hi,
I've been riding for a long time with Ritchey WCS Carbon VentureMax 440mm, it's a great gravel handlebar. And the stem is a Thomson Elite X4 70mm: heavy, but durable and cute.
Aerobar is carbon noname from tao https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?_u=l20fqh5rlla088&id=534419206970&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.3c282e8dJHrV44
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Was looking to place an order with Tantan for a size 54, but Jessi told me they're out of stock, and the wait will be two months, depending on how many orders they got. Quite funny how she asked if I could go for a size 52 or 56 instead. I could deposit 30% now and pay the rest when it ships.
Will try to contact Tideace and see if they have any stock.
Edit: miscommunication from Tantan, and the frame is in fact in stock in size 54.
When I ordered my frame from Carbonda a few years ago there were some things that would be nice to have, such as extra derailleur hangers etc. Is there anything you guys recommend adding to my order from Tantan? Will not be getting handlebars as I have bars from Kocevlo that I'll use for this build.
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When I ordered my frame from Carbonda a few years ago there were some things that would be nice to have, such as extra derailleur hangers etc. Is there anything you guys recommend adding to my order from Tantan? Will not be getting handlebars as I have bars from Kocevlo that I'll use for this build.
Since the frame does have UDH it is in fact a standard, you can find it everywhere. This is great for us consumers since you don't need a hanger specific for your frame. Then only think you need to look out for when you buy a new UDH is that it is correct thread pitch for your axle.
M12x1.5p is most common, but i have also had M12x1.0p on some frames.
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
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Shake out ride this Monday ;D
-GR201 size 540
-9Velo GV45 2.0
-SRAM Eagle GX/Force
-10/52t Cassette 44t Chainring
-Cybrei Ceramic T47 BB
-Continental Terra Speed 45c
-Onirii ONE 3D Saddle
-Fizik Temp Bartape EDIT: I absolutely hate the way these look after install.
-Cyclowax Waxed Chain
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Alright, here is my completed build. Super happy with it and have now ridden around ~100km on it.
Am very happy with the bike overall. Would have gone down a framesize if they had it available, but it works like this.
Rides like a dream!
My stats
Height: 167cm (65.7 inches)
Inseam: 76cm (29.9 inches)
Frame: Tideace GR201 Noah - Size 49cm, color 42 brown (Bought from Tideace via Whatsapp through "Eddy" - good service)
Seatpost: N/A - with frame
Stem: Kocevlo 70mm - Not a perfect fit, needed to 3D-print a C-shaped compression ring spacer (0,5mm) - all perfect now.
Wheels: XMCarbonSpeed D40CU-33 T800 rims 24/24H UD matt without access holes in rim bed, Carbon Speed in-house hubs 36T rachets enduro steel bearings center lock straight pull, Sapim CX-Ray spokes (great experience dealing with "Peter" from XMCarbonSpeed)
Tubeless Valves: XMCarbonSpeed
Tires: Continental Terra Speed Protection, 45C
Bottle cages: Random Aliexpress carbon
Handlebar: Ritchey Comp Butano 380mm (73mm reach)
Saddle: RYET Carbon 3D Printed Saddle Ultralight 175g
Bottom bracket: SRAM DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm
Crankset: SRAM Rival Wide 165mm (with Quark power meter)
Casette: SRAM GX Transmission 10-52 (dual color)
Chain: SRAM GX Transmission
Shifters: SRAM Rival AXS
Brake pads: N/A - with shifters
Brakes: SRAM Rival AXS
Rear derailleur: SRAM X01 Transmission
Pedals: Shimano SPD PD-M8100
Top tube bag: WEST BIKING Bike Top Tube Bag Narrow
Net weight: 9.0kg
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
I am 99% sure that the bike is too large for her.
The bike is almost too large for me, even though I've built it as short as possible, and I am almost 10cm taller.
See more info in my build notes.
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My YouTube video is live. Super happy with the riding dynamics. Proper gravel roads have yet to be seen.
TanTan GR201 Gravel Bike / 9VELO GV45 Gravel Wheels - Superb!
https: //youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4 <---Remove the spaces
https://youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4 (https://youtu.be/TVES8-aJ3D4)
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Shake out ride this Monday ;D
-GR201 size 540
-9Velo GV45 2.0
-SRAM Eagle GX/Force
-10/52t Cassette 44t Chainring
-Cybrei Ceramic T47 BB
-Continental Terra Speed 45c
-Onirii ONE 3D Saddle
-Fizik Temp Bartape EDIT: I absolutely hate the way these look after install.
-Cyclowax Waxed Chain
That's a beautiful build! What's the total weight with the new groupset?
Seriously, you really need to do a California trip, that bike would tear it up in the desert! ;D
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But you need this bartape first https://www.campandgoslow.com/products
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I want to build a gravel bike for my wife using this frame, but I'm a bit worried about the sizing.
She is 158 cm, do you reckon 49cm frame is ok (even with 70 mm stem), or still too big and I should look for something different?
Way too big, I'm 170 and have a 49
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I am happy with the Lexon.
I am happy with the Lexon.
I flipped the Tideace bars and just received the Lexon. The compression ring seem to fit quite nicely to the diameter of the head tube, but I have ~1mm gap between head tube and compression ring - is that the same for you?
Also, I would prefer to slam the stem, but seems like it need the spacer with two “hooks” to fit - does anybody imagine any issues in removing two of the dots from the compression ring so the handlebar can fit directly without spacer?
Br.
Andreas
(http://)
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I have the same 1mm gap
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I remove those dots with a craft knife. Have done this on the few builds with 3rd party bars, they're not really necessary just help to line everything up.
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Does anybody know the difference between PU+blow molding vs EPS molding? Is Tideace method better than other suppliers of this frame? Maybe they don't use EPS at all and standard bladder instead?
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I finally joined the club, I ordered this frame from TanTan! I got matte black, and I’ll be adding some gold anodized accents for some color
The build is going to be
- TanTan frame, size 58
- TanTan bars, fork, axles, headset,
- 50mm deep, 26mm internal width rims, tubeless, from Peter
- GRX 2x12 groupset
- front and rear derailleur, 11-34 cassette, 160mm ice-tech rotors, cranks
- (ZTTO bar tape)[https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKAZEHZ]
Things I’m still deciding on:
- wheels manufacturing T47BB (seems like a good balance of price/performance)
- (bucklos 3d printed carbon saddle)[https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL9n5p5]
- some spd pedals? Probably just shimano
This is my first full build, and first road/gravel bike. I have a few questions though if anyone can help me out
Will the TanTan seat post clamp accept 7x9 oval carbon rails?
What is the seat post clamp diameter? I want to get a new anodized seat post clamp
For the flat mount brakes, do I need a mounting bolt length specific to the frame? If so, what is the right length?
Are there any parts I’m missing that I’m going to get stuck on during the build? I think I have most of the tools I need already just from taking care of my MTB, but with this being my first full build I might be missing some small parts that some of you take for granted
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Hi guys!
What's the right size axles for this frame?
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142x12 rear and 100x12 front. If that’s what you’re asking?
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142x12 rear and 100x12 front. If that’s what you’re asking?
No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
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No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
Hi!
The 171mm rear stock axle was a bit long with the usual dh, the seller sent 168, its length was fine.
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I read about the State Bicycle All Road v2 (https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/carbon-all-road-gravel-bikes/products/carbon-all-road-v2-frame-fork-set-team-edition) last night. It's obviously the TanTan GR201 but State is marketing it with 2.2" tire clearance rather than 50mm. I've seen pictures with 2.2" tires in the front, and the clearance looks ok if conditions are dry, however, 2.2" wheel on the rear is a tighter fit.
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No. I'm asking about actual length and thread pitch. Axles usually longer than 142 and 100.
Would appreciate if someone can measure.
For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
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Hi!
The 171mm rear stock axle was a bit long with the usual dh, the seller sent 168, its length was fine.
For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
Thanks guys!
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For the rear (because I ordered a new one not long ago)
L : 168 mm
Thread Length : 15mm
M12 X 1.0
Do you have a link to the one that you bought?
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I just ordered and was told 169 was the correct lenght. Jessi sent a photo of it too, with 169 printed on the axle.
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Do you have a link to the one that you bought?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGUqbyC
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGUqbyC
Thanks
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I just ordered and was told 169 was the correct lenght. Jessi sent a photo of it too, with 169 printed on the axle.
it seems like the 168 will work also
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Picture of my Frame. I’m going with a wheeltop groupset. 44t 1x up front and 11-46t in the back.
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Bought this seatpost from AliExpress because I needed a 20mm offset. Arrived in only 6 days. And it uses the 2-bolt design rather than the single bolt. Which I despise.
ELITAONE MTB Carbon Seat Post 31.6/30.9/27.2/ Offset 20mm Road Bike Seatpost Carbon Fiber Base Cover
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806983349114.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.9.6a211802IXFbWM&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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I'm running a 46T. With my Magene P505 I run a very thin spacer which gives enough space between chainring and chainstay.
Do you have a link to the spacer that you use for the 46t chainrings?
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
That looks GREAT
Could you please share which chainstay frame protector have you used?
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Ok, putting my order in with TanTan
Will be pairing with the Lexon bars and parts off my current gravel bike, and possibly a Fox 32 TC for a long technical race later this year, similar to @auburntygur
Have gone for the same colour as @patliean1.
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That looks GREAT
Could you please share which chainstay frame protector have you used?
I got it from amazon here’s a link
https://a.co/d/3PwzeL9
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
I'm riding 2.0 furious fred but here is one guy with 2.1 thunder burt : https://www.instagram.com/p/DHDR2fvKP44/?igsh=MWR2ZGhodXJ2dDNwdQ==
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I have already a pair of 2,1“ TB for Installation but still awaiting my new wheelset from Peter that should arrive next week. Can post photos then. I will install 3M foil on the chainstays.
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
No pics, but State Bicycle Co claim clearance for 29x2.2 in their marketing spiel, so you should be safe.
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2,2“ is very tight, high risk you shred the chainstays in muddy conditions
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
There is a recent post on WeightWeenie with a pic of 2.2' Race Kings mounted. (about 1/2 way down the page)
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=176431&start=435
You'll need to make the call for yourself based on the conditions you ride in and if any mud clearance is needed.
Regardless, you'll want to shave the tires hairs on the Kings. :)
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She is 98% finish. Just bar tape after I figure out if I like my hood position. She rides pretty well and I have some 50mm tires on her.
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I've seen a few questions, but no definitive answers in this thread:
Has anyone actually run 2.1 or 2.2 tyres in this frame and, if so, what was the clearance like? (Obviously thinking Thunder Burt/Conti Race King if possible)
I just got mine and was playing around with tires. The Burt's were too big on the rear but the race king has maybe 4mm of clearance.
Idk what to do for the handlebar situation. I haven't cut the steerer yet but it does not seem like I'll be able to compress the headset. It seems loose. Will report back later.(http://)
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I just got mine and was playing around with tires. The Burt's were too big on the rear but the race king has maybe 4mm of clearance.
Idk what to do for the handlebar situation. I haven't cut the steerer yet but it does not seem like I'll be able to compress the headset. It seems loose. Will report back later.(http://)
I recommend using a longer headset compression nut. The one that comes with the bike is too short unless you’re slamming the stem
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
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Lexon Unox all good here. Supplied spacers are fine.
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Hey everyone,
Another new user asking for size recommendation lol
I'm getting a frameset next month, but i'm torn between size 49 and 52.
I'm 1,73m with a inseam of 80cm and a saddle height of 69cm. Usually riding size 51-52 bikes (or S on some brands).
Reach and stack wise, i can fit on both sizes. I would probably run a slammed 80-ish cm stem on a 52, while i could run a longer stem on the 49 with at least 15mm of spacers.
I'd rather have a nimble bike than a small boat, so i'm tempted to go with the 49 but i'm worried it will be a bit on the "too" small side.
Anyone in the same size bracket with any advice or feedback on their bike so far ?
Thanks a lot.
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Hey everyone,
Another new user asking for size recommendation lol
I'm getting a frameset next month, but i'm torn between size 49 and 52.
I'm 1,73m with a inseam of 80cm and a saddle height of 69cm. Usually riding size 51-52 bikes (or S on some brands).
Reach and stack wise, i can fit on both sizes. I would probably run a slammed 80-ish cm stem on a 52, while i could run a longer stem on the 49 with at least 15mm of spacers.
I'd rather have a nimble bike than a small boat, so i'm tempted to go with the 49 but i'm worried it will be a bit on the "too" small side.
Anyone in the same size bracket with any advice or feedback on their bike so far ?
Thanks a lot.
I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Damn, that's it. I'm getting the 49 then, thanks. Your bike looks awesome!!
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Looking at the picture, you could also swap a seatpost with a offset to accomplish more length.
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Looking at the picture, you could also swap a seatpost with a offset to accomplish more length.
Why ? I don't need more length, my stem is already small. I usually run 120/130.
Too much at the back and I won't have the same legs movements
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Why ? I don't need more length, my stem is already small. I usually run 120/130.
...
Sorry, my message was meant for @TikO.
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Sorry, my message was meant for @TikO.
Ah yes good eye! A 100mm stem seems pretty spot-on reach wise for me, but i guess you never know until you get the frame!
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
The Tideace bars and spacer set is crap - I had the same with tons of play. Got the Lexon bars instead and quality in much better and zero play.
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Yes, same here. Cannot recommend the bars.
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What's the name of the bars coming from tideace? Are they the same that tantan sells or a different style?
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Hmm headset keeps some play with the tideace bar. Also want a longer stem so I can solve both problems.
Lexon is on the shortlist, really good price and loads of sizes. Does anyone have pictures of this 1mm gap at the headtube? Any negatives on lexon bars?
Picture of the gap with Lexon bars:
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I have a Bigrock Skyline Handlebar on order. It will arrive Mid April. I can post photos then.
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I'm 170 with 79 inseam and same saddle height. Went for 49 and have a 100 mm bar. I run the only 2 spacer that are required to run the bar (15mm).
Are those also lexon bars?
The tideace bars also seems kinda weird, I have 100mm length. The total length from front to back is like 14cm. My blackinc bars are 110mm length and measure total 17.7cm. Can anyone measure the lexon bars front to back of the stem for me? Ill just get one of those
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No it's the original Tantan HB047 bars that are sold with the frame. Only lenght that was available in 360mm width when I ordered it was 100mm. I asked them to tell me when 110 and 120 would be available. Last month it was, and I ordered 120 for my road bike. The updated the bars to 1 1/8 inch (was 1 1/4 with a sleeve before for 1 1/8). Much better !
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Here are quick and dirty shots with thunder burrs on XMC 36-28 wheels:
https://imgur.com/a/S1VibDL
Tyre clearance is about 3-4 mm on non drive and 2-3 mm on drive side.
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Are you comfortable riding this? Looks like you are cutting it very close?
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There is 3M foil on both chainstays and I do not ride in wet/muddy conditions.
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Thunder Burts are on 53 mm on these rims. That’s in my opinion the absolute maximum on this frame.
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Oh okay, that explains it then. What's the inner width of your rims?
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28 mm ID, 36 mm OD
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XMC 36-28 wheels
Now I understand what you meant with that. I first thought it's 36mm deep am size 28 as in wheel diameter ;D
Also XMC was a bit misleading as DT Swiss offers wheels with that name as well :-X
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Thunder Burts are on 53 mm on these rims. That’s in my opinion the absolute maximum on this frame.
Is there space for a grx di2 front derailleur with the thunder burt in the rear? I think it needs ~40mm of clearance from the front of the derailleur to tire. Would you mind taking a measurement from the mounting point to the tire for me? Thanks.
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I will measure it for you but I don’t think it will fit.
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Anyone know how long it normally takes when going with custom paint? Put in my order around two weeks ago. Hoping I get the frame before going on a bike trip in Italy in three weeks.
Also, anyone have any experience with the HB012 bars? http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1070 (http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1070) They look a lot like the 3t Superghiaia's, which I would love but are way to expensive. The HB012 come in at 1/6th of the price.
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Cant speak for Tideace, but I'm waiting, for my frame from ICAN with custom paint, since 2.5 month's... It's not normal to wait that long, but it happens. They told me that they run in some production backlog due to chinese new year. But it´s pretty hard to believe. Now they told me it will be shipped next week. I hope yours is ready for your trip.
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It's not unlikely for a custom paintjob to take 3-4 weeks depending on complexity. Shipping will take another 1-2 weeks depending on country and import/customs speed.
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Great thread for someone like me who is not only ordering a bike frame from China for the first time, but its also my first bike build. So theres been some helpful info here.
I think the time is right for a self build as it seems the quality from China suppliers is now reliable if you do your research, and the prices are still very reasonable.
I think its in that sweet spot right now. A bit like Skoda 15 years ago. They were a well built car using VW parts, but at a fraction of the cost.
Great value up to about 5 years ago when their reputation caught up to them and now they are still building decent cars, but the value is not there anymore due to their price increase.
I suspect at some point the same will happen here and the parts etc will rise in price as their quality and reliability builds their customer base. Now seems a good time to get onboard.
I'm ordering direct with TanTan and so far communication has been good. Most toing and froing has been with regard to the color.
Color:
A surprisingly complicated exchange for so many reasons. I'm after a red that I've seen on some other builds, but getting info on the correct YS color code is difficult.
The person I was dealing with kindly took photos of the catalogue and sent me 15 pages. Gives a good idea of the colors – but its still a photograph of small sample sizes taken under indoor lighting, so hard to be 100% sure. Especially if metallic etc. And I'm not even sure if every color is an option. A decent page on the TanTan website of a seat post with each of the colors would be awesome.
1X System:
I've been on a Canyon Grail CF SL8 (with DD bars) for the last few years and I love it. BUT I have always wanted to do a self build. And as good as the Grail is, the non-standard nature of everything on it makes it an frustrating own sometimes as you can't do much adjusting and addition. Its a bike with an aggressive geometry that I have done 180km sportives comfortably, handling all climbs and keeping up with groups on the flats – but another cog on the flats to slow my cadence a little would be ideal. I'm happy with my position on it. And it would prob still be my go to bike for anything that demanded reliabity until the new build gets my confidence.
So the GR201 seems the perfect bike for me. Aggressive style, mounting points more in line with the Grizl (which is great) and standard headset and seat tube for unlimited options + the bonus of the frame storage.
BUT I'm keen to switch to 1x system for a number of reasons and so I want/need a big ring on the front. Currently on 48/31 – 11/34. A fantastic range for me. At 80KG I need that climbing gear here in Ireland, but I have the power for the flats when needed, if I have the gear.
The Grail gives me a .91 Climbing ratio and a 4.36 Flat ratio.
For the GR201
An 11/46 on the rear with a 46 front would give me 1.0 and 4.18 ratios. So shaving a bit on both ends
A 10/51 on the rear with a 44 front would give .86 and 4.4 (almost a match)
A 10/51 and 46 would give .90 and 4.6 (Improving on both ends)
I know its a bit more complicated than that with the steps/gaps inbetween the extremes, but I thought it was a minimum starting point to consider.
But I have no idea what the frame will accommodate and even if it “fits” how smooth and relatively hassle free the experience will be. Will it be noisy? Require constant adjustment? Wear parts prematurely due to chain line etc. Will be a steep (and frustrating) learning curve me thinks
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Hey everyone,
Another new user asking for size recommendation lol
I'm getting a frameset next month, but i'm torn between size 49 and 52.
I'm 1,73m with a inseam of 80cm and a saddle height of 69cm. Usually riding size 51-52 bikes (or S on some brands).
Reach and stack wise, i can fit on both sizes. I would probably run a slammed 80-ish cm stem on a 52, while i could run a longer stem on the 49 with at least 15mm of spacers.
I'd rather have a nimble bike than a small boat, so i'm tempted to go with the 49 but i'm worried it will be a bit on the "too" small side.
Anyone in the same size bracket with any advice or feedback on their bike so far ?
Thanks a lot.
Hi!
I'm exactly the same proportions as you. Went for a 52 frame with a short stem. But I'm looking for a more stable ride on steep descents, more front-center, less toe overlap with a big front tire. Will see how it goes, the bike is currently in the making
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I will measure it for you but I don’t think it will fit.
Hey man, were you able to take that measurement?
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By the way, the frame came with a 170mm rear thru axle, and it seems to fit GX t-type derailleur
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First ride with the Thunder Burt, IMO the best tyre for the frame if you do not plan intense mud battles.
https://imgur.com/a/IACrFQ7
@Inhaler
You can find your photo also there.
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What size chainring is that?
Looks about maxed out for the frame?
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46 T, tyres and chainring are maxed out on this frame.
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https://imgur.com/a/IACrFQ7
@Inhaler
You can find your photo also there.
Yeah that looks super close regarding a front derailleur. Might be able to squeeze it in but even if it would technically fit, I would not want to run it like that. A little bit of dirt or as much as a rogue pebble and you risk ripping your front mech right off ...
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First ride with the Thunder Burt, IMO the best tyre for the frame if you do not plan intense mud battles.
https://imgur.com/a/IACrFQ7
@Inhaler
You can find your photo also there.
Thanks! I think I'll give it a go. I also wonder if the smaller sizes have ever so slightly more clearance to the fd due to steeper seat tube angles. I'm going for a size 49. Probably only 1-2mm difference if anything but thats the kind of clearance id be working with. I'll post an update in a few weeks.
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Good luck! :-X
I might end up testing it on a 580 frame but not liking my chances ;D
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Hi!
I'm exactly the same proportions as you. Went for a 52 frame with a short stem. But I'm looking for a more stable ride on steep descents, more front-center, less toe overlap with a big front tire. Will see how it goes, the bike is currently in the making
Ah! Another "inbetween 2 sizes" average height human ;D. I ordered a size 49 earlier this week, will probably build it a bit more "fast gravel racing" than big-mtb-tires-shredding, seeing how i don't really have that much elevation and steep trails around me. Can't wait tho!!
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First ride with the Thunder Burt, IMO the best tyre for the frame if you do not plan intense mud battles.
https://imgur.com/a/IACrFQ7
@Inhaler
You can find your photo also there.
Thanks for the photos, i'll just order a set
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A few updates for this season:
- Switched to Wheeltop GEX which support the 50T cassette better - also 13 speed (new cassette, 11-50)
-Voicevelo VFV Deep-V seatpost
- clikvalves
- Tufo Thundero HD 48mm tyres
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmGrTLqD/PXL-20250407-114947109.jpg)
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I’ve never seen a chain with orange links like that, looks awesome. I also just ordered some thundero HD’s for my build
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I just received my frame from tantan. As expected, there aren’t any instructions. I’m noticing that there are two different thickness headset bearings, with identical ID and OD. Which one belongs on the top/bottom?
My guess would be that the thicker one belongs on the bottom because it will handle most of the axial load, but the gap between the fork and frame seems kind of large
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Tideace sends 52x40x7 for top and bottom. But I would not recommend these ones as bearings and screws likely start to rust.
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Tideace sends 52x40x7 for top and bottom. But I would not recommend these ones as bearings and screws likely start to rust.
Any recommendations for better headset?
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You can go for a CeramicSpeed SLT style one w/o buying their fancy marketing voodoo: https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig-40x52x7mm.html
Or just stick to a good standard one: https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
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Are the "premium" CS-style solid oil bearings worth the uplift of almost 90% in your opinion?
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It's on my shortlist so I will buy it when I change the handlebar as I have to remove the fork for this anyway :D
I think you will get the most out of it if you often ride in wet/muddy conditions as you have lower wear and tear in your headset bearings.
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Thanks Uberflo. I’m in the US so I think I’m going to order two of the stainless ACB 4545 150 from enduro bearings https://cycling.endurobearings.com/collections/headset-bearings/products/acb-4545-150-ss
I’m not sure how they compare to what you sent, but sealed stainless bearings seem like a worthwhile upgrade on a fully integrated handlebar
For anyone who is still looking for definitive axle lengths, I just checked mine from TanTan
Front is 12x125mm, 17mm thread length, 1.5mm thread pitch
Rear is 12x168mm, 17mm thread length, 1.0mm thread pitch. I’ve seen people buy other UDH hangers on other bikes so they can switch to 1.5mm pitch, not really sure why they decided to make them different
At one point I asked about the Seatpost clamp diameter. If anyone else needs it, it’s 31.8mm
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1.0 mm is the official SRAM UDH pitch, I just changed the hanger on another bike
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A few updates for this season:
- Switched to Wheeltop GEX which support the 50T cassette better - also 13 speed (new cassette, 11-50)
-Voicevelo VFV Deep-V seatpost
- clikvalves
- Tufo Thundero HD 48mm tyres
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmGrTLqD/PXL-20250407-114947109.jpg)
I think I ask you this before but I forgot. I’m about to but a 46T chainring up front what size spacer did you use on the drive side
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46 T, tyres and chainring are maxed out on this frame.
What size spacer did you use on the front chainring to get the 46t to fit?
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It fits without a spacer, but I used a small one (0.5mm maybe?) just to give a little extra clearance.
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Ok perfect thank you.
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It fits without a spacer, but I used a small one (0.5mm maybe?) just to give a little extra clearance.
FYI I’m using the wheeltop gravel groupset also. It’s perfect once you get the gears dial in. It never miss a shift.
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What size spacer did you use on the front chainring to get the 46t to fit?
its a DUB wide crankset with BBinfinite bottom bracket and their wide spacers
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its a DUB wide crankset with BBinfinite bottom bracket and their wide spacers
@gloscherrybomb is using the same setup as me so he already helped me out. Thanks
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With 2.1 Thunder bird, measured at 51mm on elite gravel (24mm) at 2 bars
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Hello,
Can you recommend a frame plug for a front derailleur hole? Do you even plug it somehow?
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A few days ago, I ordered my frame in the Pantone Warm Gray 5C matte finish.
Size 52 for a height of 176 cm and an inseam of 81 cm. I can’t wait for it to arrive! ;)
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Hello,
Can you recommend a frame plug for a front derailleur hole? Do you even plug it somehow?
Derailleur cable hole with a little plastic plug ( I just found it in my stuff). For the derailleur hanger, juste a black tape
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With 2.1 Thunder bird, measured at 51mm on elite gravel (24mm) at 2 bars
nice build! Do you use an adapter on that senicx crank? To use different chainrings? Which is it?
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A word of warning to anyone ordering from TanTan.
I received my frame last week and noticed they sent me a fork without mounts on it. All pictures on their site indicate the fork will have mounts, and I don’t see any indication that it was even an option to remove the mounts. They didn’t indicate during any of our correspondences that the fork would be missing mounts, or ask if that was okay
I pointed out the error to them, and asked if they can offer a solution. They said it’s not a quality or safety issue, so they won’t do anything
I asked them to ship me a new fork because sending a product that does not match the description is in fact a quality issue. They said the same thing, and offered to sell me a replacement at full price
I offered to meet in the middle and pay half price, and they said the same thing. They recommended I could sell the current fork on the secondhand market because apparently there is a large market for them (not buying it). They also sent me an invoice for the full price fork. The invoice does not specify anywhere that the new fork will have mounts on it, which seems ridiculous given the circumstances.
I reiterated that this is a quality issue because the frame did not arrive as described and they did not warn me of the deviation. We will see what they say.
I get that they probably work on tight margins, but I’m pretty disappointed that they aren’t shipping as described, and don’t feel at all accountable for this. If they are willing to send an out of spec fork, what would they have done if they sent the wrong size frame? Just told me it’s still safe to ride, so I’ll have to buy a new one?
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Quick question. After torquing down the compression nut. Do y’all apply a small amount of torque to the top cap or just tight enough for no head play. Some say 5nm some say 2-3nm
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Just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. It's also called "pre-load" and describes pretty much what it does. If you want a torque setting I'd go with 1-1.5Nm. 5Nm is definitely too much and might even overload the bearings i.e. excessive wear. The top cap does not hold the fork (except during the installation process), the handlebar bolts/clamp will do that. It really is just to pre-load the whole setup so that it is nicely tight when you torque the handlebar bolts to spec. If you want, you could even remove the top cap and screw afterwards - not recommended since it leaves a hole and looks shit but just technically speaking.
A word of warning to anyone ordering from TanTan.
I received my frame last week and noticed they sent me a fork without mounts on it.
Interesting. Most people would have actually preferred a "no hole fork" but didn't know that would have been an option, from what I saw. Sucks, that you see it the other way round. And totally agree with you, they should have made that clear during the ordering process. But not surprised either. One thing I learn from ordering Chinese direct to consumer, is that I over-confirm everything. Had a few "aha-moments" on similar details where I thought everything is clear but turned out it wasn't.
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Quick question. After torquing down the compression nut. Do y’all apply a small amount of torque to the top cap or just tight enough for no head play. Some say 5nm some say 2-3nm
Which handlebar do you use? Max. 2 nm on the cap
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nice build! Do you use an adapter on that senicx crank? To use different chainrings? Which is it?
Sorry for the late answer,
I'm using the original SRAM force 22 spider with the original chainring. 110 BCD 5 bolt
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I received my frame last week and noticed they sent me a fork without mounts on it. All pictures on their site indicate the fork will have mounts, and I don’t see any indication that it was even an option to remove the mounts. They didn’t indicate during any of our correspondences that the fork would be missing mounts, or ask if that was okay
I just ordered a frame a week ago. So not left factory yet. Did they not send you a photo of frame after painting and before dispatch? I've been emailing Jessi and she (I'm actually not sure of gender, I'm presuming she) said she would send photos after spray job, I'm hoping I can confirm mounting points at that stage before dispatch.
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Which handlebar do you use? Max. 2 nm on the cap
separate bar and stem combination
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Just tight enough so that there is no play in the headset. It's also called "pre-load" and describes pretty much what it does. If you want a torque setting I'd go with 1-1.5Nm. 5Nm is definitely too much and might even overload the bearings i.e. excessive wear. The top cap does not hold the fork (except during the installation process), the handlebar bolts/clamp will do that. It really is just to pre-load the whole setup so that it is nicely tight when you torque the handlebar bolts to spec. If you want, you could even remove the top cap and screw afterwards - not recommended since it leaves a hole and looks shit but just technically speaking.
Interesting. Most people would have actually preferred a "no hole fork" but didn't know that would have been an option, from what I saw. Sucks, that you see it the other way round. And totally agree with you, they should have made that clear during the ordering process. But not surprised either. One thing I learn from ordering Chinese direct to consumer, is that I over-confirm everything. Had a few "aha-moments" on similar details where I thought everything is clear but turned out it wasn't.
Great explanation, thank you.
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separate bar and stem combination
With full integration or you use this frame cap with holes?
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I just ordered a frame a week ago. So not left factory yet. Did they not send you a photo of frame after painting and before dispatch? I've been emailing Jessi and she (I'm actually not sure of gender, I'm presuming she) said she would send photos after spray job, I'm hoping I can confirm mounting points at that stage before dispatch.
No, one day I asked for an update on my order and she just said that it shipped and sent me tracking. I opted for the default matte black paint job so I’m guessing that played some role, maybe they had a few sitting around. I’m disappointed they won’t even offer a discount
Oh well, I guess you get what you pay for. Just wanted others to know apparently this is something that needs to be confirmed. At this point I’m not sure how to figure out what does and doesn’t need to be confirmed if even things that don’t seem like options are actually options
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With full integration or you use this frame cap with holes?
It’s semi integrated for now. I’m test out different stem length to see what I like. I ride with a 80mm stem first but it made the bike feel too small. I put a 100mm and did around 45 miles and it felt much better. I have some numbness in my left fingers, so now I have to figure out my hood position on the left side.
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I installed a new Bigrock skyline handlebar yesterday together with a seatpost without setback to reduce the frame stretch. Also used the new solid oil headset bearings.
https://imgur.com/a/2u6TYB5
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This bike is pretty fast. Took it on a 75 mile gravel ride today. It did really well in the sand pit areas with the 50mm tires on it. 5 stars for this bike
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This bike is pretty fast. Took it on a 75 mile gravel ride today. It did really well in the sand pit areas with the 50mm tires on it. 5 stars for this bike
Do you really need a chain guard with wheeltop gex? I'm also thinking about this specific model of chain guard.
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Do you really need a chain guard with wheeltop gex? I'm also thinking about this specific model of chain guard.
Not with the chain ring that I’m running. But I just like having one just Incase. The clutch keeps the chain pretty stable but I’m a creature of habit
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Does anyone have a bar/cockpit on there for aero bars? I kinda want them for longer rides. Something like this : https://blackinc.cc/en-de/products/integrated-aero-barstem-with-extensions , you can take the exentions off and ride like a normal bar. But then ofcourse for cheaper! :) Prefer with integrated cockpit!
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A few updates for this season:
- Switched to Wheeltop GEX which support the 50T cassette better - also 13 speed (new cassette, 11-50)
-Voicevelo VFV Deep-V seatpost
- clikvalves
- Tufo Thundero HD 48mm tyres
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmGrTLqD/PXL-20250407-114947109.jpg)
May I ask you what's the name of your top tube bag?
I did find something similar on AliExpress but the only mounting option was with glue, no bolt-on (which I'd prefer)
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It's actually Tideace branded, but I think there are loads out there.
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Just 13 working days after placing the order and the frame is already painted!
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Just 13 working days after placing the order and the frame is already painted!
Nice, what color is that? Matte or glossy?
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Nice, what color is that? Matte or glossy?
Matte Pantone Warm Gray 5C.
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Just 13 working days after placing the order and the frame is already painted!
From tideace or tantan? My tantan order was placed on 22 March, still waiting…
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From tideace or tantan? My tantan order was placed on 22 March, still waiting…
I ordered it from TanTan. I’ve already got the tracking number. Handled everything with Vivian over WhatsApp.
Ordered 7 april
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I ordered it from TanTan. I’ve already got the tracking number. Handled everything with Vivian over WhatsApp.
Ordered 7 april
Weird, I dealt with Vivian via email. Will mail her now.
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Just 13 working days after placing the order and the frame is already painted!
Looking good!
I have an order for a size 56 frame with TanTan (Jessi via email) from 31st March, no update so far.
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Thanks for all the members supporting.
We will have the updated GV202 mold carbon suspension gravel bike frame available sooner.
The private mold we will keep selling only for Tideacebike.
And we will make a groupbuy and choose one lucky guy for free of the new mold in the group on May.
We will show more information on next month.
Many thanks.
Eddy
Tideacebike
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Looks good! Is the geometry chart available already?
cheers
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Yes.
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Finally some decent gravel geometry!
Thanks for that.
I'm curious to see how big is the market niche for this frame! I think it's the first time I'm seeing such. So far only had 1 person questioning about gravel microsuspension. But happy to see there is some risk from ur end on trying sth new.
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Ok, mine is now ready and shipped
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I wouldn't call it microsuspension, looks significant! I think this would be an all out adventure bike rather than a racer.
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I wouldn't call it microsuspension, looks significant! I think this would be an all out adventure bike rather than a racer.
I didn't mean this was microsuspension :) I just said that I only had a client once mentioning such feature on a gravel frame. Never had even anyone asking for a proper suspension like this. People tend to go to MTB when they need such shock absorption. Hence my curiousness/applause to explore a potential new market share.
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That looks like a cool bike, but also one that has essentially zero overlap with the current model. Might be worth starting a new thread.
A full sus gravel bike with only 50mm clearance is a bit odd. It also doesn't look like you can push the clearance much further - the shock is already very close to the tire (assuming that line represents a 50mm tire).
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Gosh, just buy a short-travel XC bike/frame and put dropbars.
Once you're into real fullsus (with air shocks and forks), maintenance's not different. So why not go for a real bike specifically designed for the kind of terrain where you already need a mature suspension and big tires?
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I ordered it from TanTan. I’ve already got the tracking number. Handled everything with Vivian over WhatsApp.
Ordered 7 april
Ha - I ordered 7th April as well with TanTan. Hopefully hear something this week. I'm documenting the build for the old YT if anyone interested. I'm a complete noob to this kinda thing so its not a How To vid - more of a heres what I did - youtube.com/watch?v=3i6iXBJcv3U
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That looks like a cool bike, but also one that has essentially zero overlap with the current model. Might be worth starting a new thread.
A full sus gravel bike with only 50mm clearance is a bit odd. It also doesn't look like you can push the clearance much further - the shock is already very close to the tire (assuming that line represents a 50mm tire).
Sounds odd initially but if you have suspension do you need wider tyres? Probably not. It's a new angle for sure... but I wonder if, like in MTB XC, the long term future of gravel is full sus.
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Gosh, just buy a short-travel XC bike/frame and put dropbars.
Once you're into real fullsus (with air shocks and forks), maintenance's not different. So why not go for a real bike specifically designed for the kind of terrain where you already need a mature suspension and big tires?
The obvious answer is geometry. I have a Cannondale F-Si hardtail which is a crazy light frame... I was half tempted to turn it in to a dropbar gravel bike but the geometry just doesn't work.
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Consistently warm weather is back here in Chicago. I did an update video on my GR201
UPDATE - TanTan GR201 Gravel Bike / 9VELO GV45 Gravel Wheels
https://youtu.be/qv10Bw28R6o?si=hekmi9RHFmFw0vhL (https://youtu.be/qv10Bw28R6o?si=hekmi9RHFmFw0vhL)
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Gosh, just buy a short-travel XC bike/frame and put dropbars.
Once you're into real fullsus (with air shocks and forks), maintenance's not different. So why not go for a real bike specifically designed for the kind of terrain where you already need a mature suspension and big tires?
I disagree - this is essentially what Dylan Johnson built for some lifetime races last year using an Allied BC40 but with shorter, non-MTB reach.
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I just ordered a frame a week ago. So not left factory yet. Did they not send you a photo of frame after painting and before dispatch? I've been emailing Jessi and she (I'm actually not sure of gender, I'm presuming she) said she would send photos after spray job, I'm hoping I can confirm mounting points at that stage before dispatch.
Hey there - did you ever get you frame shipped yet? I payed on March 24th - custom color + some wheels, and I haven't got any photos or a tracking number. Ordered from Jessie via email.
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Hey Guys, i just drove my Gr201 for the first time, breaking in the brakes. and i discovered a bit of movement in the headset, eventhough everything is tightened properly. anyone else experiencing this? i used the plastic compression ring which came with the handlebars...maybe thats why?
and also i have lexon gravel integrated handlebars and discovered a crack on the side...really annoying.
any other recomendations for handle bars?
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Hey Guys, i just drove my Gr201 for the first time, breaking in the brakes. and i discovered a bit of movement in the headset, eventhough everything is tightened properly. anyone else experiencing this? i used the plastic compression ring which came with the handlebars...maybe thats why?
and also i have lexon gravel integrated handlebars and discovered a crack on the side...really annoying.
any other recomendations for handle bars?
That's disappointing about the handlebars. I just raced mine at the Traka 200, which has some brutally rough descents, and it all held up perfectly.
I find with headsets sometimes after the first couple of rides you need to loosen off the stem bolts and re-torque the compression cap to take out any 'new' play (before re-tightening the stem bolts again). Sometimes if there is a lot of friction, 2NM is not enough to remove play initially.
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Hey Guys, i just drove my Gr201 for the first time, breaking in the brakes. and i discovered a bit of movement in the headset, eventhough everything is tightened properly. anyone else experiencing this? i used the plastic compression ring which came with the handlebars...maybe thats why?
and also i have lexon gravel integrated handlebars and discovered a crack on the side...really annoying.
any other recomendations for handle bars?
So which bars are you currently using?
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So which bars are you currently using?
I'm currently using the Lexon integrated gravel bars:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004788375665.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm
any other recommendations? or should i buy them again and send back the broken ones?
does anyone have experience with the flared ones from xm carbonspeed (peter)?
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Which headset are you using? A friend of mine also uses the Lexon an no issues with the plastic c ring. Did you cut the fork properly so you can adjust the headset play?
Nevertheless I would recommend to claim the issue to Lexon.
So I had three handlebars on this bike: tideace one (= trash), speeder cycling with FSA No55 headset (nice with good fitment), now BigRock Skyline (= fits nice but still no ride with these)
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Ben Delaney featured my bike at The Traka on his latest video: https://youtu.be/G-7kWbkYPfw?t=902
Apologies for the incoherence, I was COOKED.
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Ben Delaney featured my bike at The Traka on his latest video: https://youtu.be/G-7kWbkYPfw?t=902
Apologies for the incoherence, I was COOKED.
Just saw the video in my recommended.
"Wait! A Noah with an orange chainring... I know that bike !!" ;D
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Ben Delaney featured my bike at The Traka on his latest video: https://youtu.be/G-7kWbkYPfw?t=902
Apologies for the incoherence, I was COOKED.
WICKED! Always great seeing China Forum members get recognition!
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Hey there - did you ever get you frame shipped yet? I payed on March 24th - custom color + some wheels, and I haven't got any photos or a tracking number. Ordered from Jessie via email.
Just got an email today with pic of frame and a tracking number. All Ali Express component’s arrived within 10days which was unexpected (obviously shipping from storage warehouses in Europe somewhere) - just need to order tyres, and Jagwire compressionless cables from BikeInn and I’m done.
I didn’t see any alternatives of good enough quality on AliExpress for tyres. I think tyres are too important a component to be taking a risk on some random brand when quality tyres can be bought for €30 each
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I am planning on ordering my frame soon and am trying to decide on size. I am 177.5cm and am trying to decide between the 52 and 54. My current bike is:
- Poseidon X Gen 1 Size Large
- 25 Degree setback seat post
- -6 degree 80mm Redshift Shockstop stem
- 165mm crank
When I compare the geometry between the GR201 and the Poseidon X it looks like the 52 would match up better:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7346,61bc1d8de3b7f3001e48a170, (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7346,61bc1d8de3b7f3001e48a170,)
But I also noticed that the geometry of the GR201 seems pretty similar to a Specialized Crux and when I enter my height and shin length in their size calculator it recommends a 56 in the Crux which lines up more with the 54 in the GR201:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7347,678d79ac0327fc001b45ef3c, (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7347,678d79ac0327fc001b45ef3c,)
I haven't been riding gravel/road long enough to know if my current bike fits me well so I am leaning towards going with the 54.
Any help would be much appreciated.
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Ben Delaney featured my bike at The Traka on his latest video: https://youtu.be/G-7kWbkYPfw?t=902
Apologies for the incoherence, I was COOKED.
Awesome! What top tube bag is that? Just ordered a frame myself from Tantan/Jessie :)
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I am planning on ordering my frame soon and am trying to decide on size. I am 177.5cm and am trying to decide between the 52 and 54. My current bike is:
- Poseidon X Gen 1 Size Large
- 25 Degree setback seat post
- -6 degree 80mm Redshift Shockstop stem
- 165mm crank
When I compare the geometry between the GR201 and the Poseidon X it looks like the 52 would match up better:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7346,61bc1d8de3b7f3001e48a170, (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7346,61bc1d8de3b7f3001e48a170,)
But I also noticed that the geometry of the GR201 seems pretty similar to a Specialized Crux and when I enter my height and shin length in their size calculator it recommends a 56 in the Crux which lines up more with the 54 in the GR201:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7347,678d79ac0327fc001b45ef3c, (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=660fe85e11653c00217d7347,678d79ac0327fc001b45ef3c,)
I haven't been riding gravel/road long enough to know if my current bike fits me well so I am leaning towards going with the 54.
Any help would be much appreciated.
I would go with the 54, and adjust with a shorter stem if needed. You get some more stack, and typically also have more space for frame bag and bottles with the larger frame.
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Ben Delaney featured my bike at The Traka on his latest video: https://youtu.be/G-7kWbkYPfw?t=902
Apologies for the incoherence, I was COOKED.
Carbonda 505SL spotted as well at 3:25 8)
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I would go with the 54, and adjust with a shorter stem if needed. You get some more stack, and typically also have more space for frame bag and bottles with the larger frame.
Good points, thank you.
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Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread here on WW and on CT for quite a while and I'm about to pull the trigger on this frame, but I'm unsure about sizing.
I've build myself an Elves Falath Evo Roadbike last year, which fits me quite well. It's the 2023 version in 52 with a 378mm reach and 540mm stack. I'm running a 100mm onepiece stem handlebar with 70mm reach and 34mm stack. The seatpost has also a 25mm setback.
So I'm wondering if I should also get the 52 for the tideace noah, because it's pretty similar. The Tideace has a longer reach tho. The comparison on bike-stats geometry-wise doesn't look to bad, but I'm worried about the longer reach. It's 396, so basically 18mm longer.
So my questions are as follows:
How does my 25mm setback on the setpost convert to the reach measurements? I don't think its 1:1, is it?
Does the Tideace come with a setback seatpost?
I wanna run the AeroGx handlebar from elves supbrand Orome wich is designed for a 1 1/8" steerer diameter, does it fit on this fork? Or can somebody recommend another handlebar? I've seen Lexon mentioned, but I don't like the extreme flare these ones have.
Thanks in advance!
P.S: I'm 175cm height with an 84cm inseam.
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Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread here on WW and on CT for quite a while and I'm about to pull the trigger on this frame, but I'm unsure about sizing.
I've build myself an Elves Falath Evo Roadbike last year, which fits me quite well. It's the 2023 version in 52 with a 378mm reach and 540mm stack. I'm running a 100mm onepiece stem handlebar with 70mm reach and 34mm stack. The seatpost has also a 25mm setback.
So I'm wondering if I should also get the 52 for the tideace noah, because it's pretty similar. The Tideace has a longer reach tho. The comparison on bike-stats geometry-wise doesn't look to bad, but I'm worried about the longer reach. It's 396, so basically 18mm longer.
So my questions are as follows:
How does my 25mm setback on the setpost convert to the reach measurements? I don't think its 1:1, is it?
Does the Tideace come with a setback seatpost?
I wanna run the AeroGx handlebar from elves supbrand Orome wich is designed for a 1 1/8" steerer diameter, does it fit on this fork? Or can somebody recommend another handlebar? I've seen Lexon mentioned, but I don't like the extreme flare these ones have.
Thanks in advance!
P.S: I'm 175cm height with an 84cm inseam.
I have a 54cm elves evo (2024 version though) with 100mm stem.
I’ve ordered a 54cm GR201, should arrive in the next 10 days.
Will report back on fit, but looks like it’ll be good, though obviously more relaxed than the elves (which is what I want in a gravel bike)
I’m 183cm
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Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.
Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.
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Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.
Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.
That looks mint. Well done. My frame should be here in a few weeks. Can't wait. Love that Garbaruk 10-52 but unfortunatly I'm locked into HG hub for now. Would love that 10t available given that 44T looks like the largest I can go on front. But all part of the learning process.
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I have a 54cm elves evo (2024 version though) with 100mm stem.
I’ve ordered a 54cm GR201, should arrive in the next 10 days.
Will report back on fit, but looks like it’ll be good, though obviously more relaxed than the elves (which is what I want in a gravel bike)
I’m 183cm
Interesting. I would also want to go with the 54cm, because of the higher stack, but I kinda nervous about the reach. Additionally, with the 54 I have less seatpost exposed.
I guess you have the Falath Evo+ right? With the longer reach and smaller seat tube?
Which handlebar/stem or onepiece handlebar did you choose?
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Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.
Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.
Bike looks mint! Could you tell me which handlebars you are running? And as Iam unsure about sizing, your height and inseam?
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Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.
Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.
Lovely. Any toe overlap with the 2.1's on the 52 frame?
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Bike looks mint! Could you tell me which handlebars you are running? And as Iam unsure about sizing, your height and inseam?
Im 176cm with 81cm inseam
Its HB047 400/80
Lovely. Any toe overlap with the 2.1's on the 52 frame?
I didn't pay attention, but I guess not
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Interesting. I would also want to go with the 54cm, because of the higher stack, but I kinda nervous about the reach. Additionally, with the 54 I have less seatpost exposed.
I guess you have the Falath Evo+ right? With the longer reach and smaller seat tube?
Which handlebar/stem or onepiece handlebar did you choose?
Yes, I have the Evo+
Elves has a 90-400 bar stem on it
I’m going with a Lexon gravel bar in 90-380 (flares to 480 in the drops)
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I noticed that after a fast ride on rough gravel, there’s some play in the headset. I ordered a Deda compression ring, we’ll see if that makes any difference.
Has anyone here installed FSA 55 headset bearings? Any gaps or issues?
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The FSA No55R works very nice in this frame with a tiny gap. You only have to use the standard 52x40x7 for the lower bearing because of the integrated crown race.
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Bike’s all set up! Took a bit of work, but the first test ride went great.
Frame 52
Garbaruk 10-52
Garbaruk Oval 44T
GX Eagle AXS
Elitewheels Gravel SLR
Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1
8.5kg with cages, pedals, power meter, garmin mount.
Hi, can you measure your chainline on the center of the chainring and the maximum radius that your chainring has since it's oval? How much clearance do you have? I'm trying to figure out if i can fit a 0mm offset 48T chainring on the outside of a magene P505 which in theory should be no problem since this bike should fit a standard 50/34 and in my case it would be in the same position as the 50, but I've read some people struggling to fit a 46T.
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Garbaruk 10-52
Is the transmission working correctly with this cassette? The cassette is not t-type, and it is further away from the derailleur hanger than the t-type.
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Hi, can you measure your chainline on the center of the chainring and the maximum radius that your chainring has since it's oval? How much clearance do you have? I'm trying to figure out if i can fit a 0mm offset 48T chainring on the outside of a magene P505 which in theory should be no problem since this bike should fit a standard 50/34 and in my case it would be in the same position as the 50, but I've read some people struggling to fit a 46T.
My chainring has a 6mm offset, plus I’m using two spacers — though I can’t remember the exact size. A 46T wouldn’t fit without at least one of them. I’ll take some measurements when I get a moment and send them to you
Is the transmission working correctly with this cassette? The cassette is not t-type, and it is further away from the derailleur hanger than the t-type.
The cassette works totally fine with both FlatTop and T-Type chains. I’m actually running a T-Type chain right now. Shifting is smooth, and there’s no issue with hanger clearance or anything like that (i use direct mount without hanger)
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Hey guys,
Getting ready to jump into the gravel world and the Tantan GR201 frame looks like a great option.
I'm 195cm and trying to figure out the right size. Would the 58cm be the way to go for my height? Anyone else around this height on a GR201?
Also wondering about Tantan's own wheels. Thinking of grabbing them too, but I haven't really seen any reviews anywhere. Has anyone here tried them out? Worth it?
Coming from MTB, my first thought was a 1x setup. But for how I plan to use this bike – mostly road with the occasional gravel detour – I'm leaning more towards a 2x now.
The only way I'd probably stick with 1x is if I could run a big ring like 48t for road speed. But reading around here, it sounds like putting a 48t on the front with 1x might be an issue on this frame. Is that right?
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Hard to say that it will fit, based on just your height. Have you tried comparing the frame with a bike that fits you well?
https://www.bike-stats.de/geometrie_vergleich
That would be the first thing, I would do.
Without knowing more I would say that 58 with 1,95 should be ok
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I haven't really tried a whole lot of bikes other than MTBs...
Also don't have any experience on the influence of different specs.
I tried a friends Canyon Grail 1 in size XL, but that looks odd in every geometry comparison, due to the frame-integrated bars.
Also tried a rose backroad in L, that felt a little small, but I have no idea, how much another stem/cockpit can change.
Guess I have to try that, but i think, that could work out.
I find it a bit odd, that the are almost no reviews of the tantan wheels.
Would you think they are worth a shot, or should I stick to a known brand?
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I would also like to hear the opinion the taller guys who own this frame. The geo look ok on 58 apart from the headtube that's crazy short. I don't think theres a stack number on the geo chart but when compating fork length and a headtube to my current lightcarbon frame it looks like I will end up with a 4cm shorter stack in addition to this frame being quite a bit longer
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I would also like to hear the opinion the taller guys who own this frame. The geo look ok on 58 apart from the headtube that's crazy short. I don't think theres a stack number on the geo chart but when compating fork length and a headtube to my current lightcarbon frame it looks like I will end up with a 4cm shorter stack in addition to this frame being quite a bit longer
I think the geometry states 602mm stack and 165mm headtube for the 580 version.
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I would also like to hear the opinion the taller guys who own this frame. The geo look ok on 58 apart from the headtube that's crazy short. I don't think theres a stack number on the geo chart but when compating fork length and a headtube to my current lightcarbon frame it looks like I will end up with a 4cm shorter stack in addition to this frame being quite a bit longer
I measure 191 cm and ride the size 58 frame with 100 mm stem
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189cm with 90mm stem.
I guess you can try with 110mm Stem + a few spacers and/or a very sporty position on the bike.
If you are located in Berlin/ Germany by any chance you can test ride mine.
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Anyone *know the largest 2x chainring setup that will fit? Irrespective of tire clearance for the FD. Thanks
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189cm with 90mm stem.
That seems a bit short? I'm 187cm, ordered the 58, and planning on putting a 120mm stem on it :o
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If you have very short legs and long torso/arms, that might work. But I would not want to ride such a long stem on a gravel bike. Also to consider: reach of handlebar + STIs
I have moved saddle quite a bit forward since I don’t want to sit too far behind the bottom bracket and I would say that it fits me quite well.
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Here's a shot of my finished frame. Just picked it up from the shop, I had them cut the fork and face all the mounting points. I finished painting a while ago and then put it in a box because life and stuff, but now I'm finally ready to build ;D Can't wait to ride it.
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If you have very short legs and long torso/arms, that might work. But I would not want to ride such a long stem on a gravel bike. Also to consider: reach of handlebar + STIs
I have moved saddle quite a bit forward since I don’t want to sit too far behind the bottom bracket and I would say that it fits me quite well.
Quite the opposite, as most tall men, longer legs compared to rest. But I compared it to my VBR-268 which has a 400/100mm bar on a XL frame. That setup is actually a bit too small for me. Since the GR201 in 58 stacks higher, the effective reach is even shorter. That's why I was thinking about going longer. But maybe my position is just much more aggressive than what you are riding?
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Maybe that’s the case. Did you consider the flatter seat tube angle also? If I compare those two frames I come to the conclusion that you will sit longer on the Tideace anyways.
IMHO you cannot just compare stack/reach.
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Yes, I used the "measurement" tool below to check actual distance between saddle and handlebar. I would adjust the saddle ofc to match my seated position (distance saddle to BB/pedals). Then with the same handlebar, I would have a reduced "actual reach" from saddle to hoods by about 15mm. So even with the longer stem, the bike wouldn't actually be longer at all. Or I am misinterpreting or missing something else completely ...
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My frame has arrived, and I've built it, I have an FSA No 69 headset: https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs (https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-69-srs)
I have a rockshox rudy fork, and it seems like there is no gap on the crown of the fork, on the top it seems fine. I can't tighten the headset enough to not have play, but If I tighten it a bit more the fork won't move freely. What shims do I need, and where should I put them, or what should I do?
Thanks!
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Do you use the FSA crown race? Or does have the rudy an integrated crown race?
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Do you use the FSA crown race? Or does have the rudy an integrated crown race?
I used the FSA one.
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Frame finally arrived this afternoon, evening of building commenced.
Ironically, ran into a roadblock with the only non-Chinese component on the bike, my sram brakes off my old bike. Just couldn’t get the stealthamajig to work, no matter what I tried.
Eventually admitted defeat, moved on and add the rest, will take it into the shop tomorrow for brake fixing.
Current build:
- lexon gravel bars (38-90)
- Boland gravel suspension fork (I plan on swapping between this and the stock fork)
- Roval c38 wheels off my old bike
- sram Axs (rival/gx) Groupset
- SIGEYI Axs power meter with a (surprising) 48T chainring with no clearance issues
- (after brakes are sorted) Vittoria mezcal 2.1 tyres (mainly coz I can’t get thunder burts anywhere)
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I used the FSA one.
You could try a 52x40x7 bearing with 45/45 degree and another crown race
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Frame finally arrived this afternoon, evening of building commenced.
Ironically, ran into a roadblock with the only non-Chinese component on the bike, my sram brakes off my old bike. Just couldn’t get the stealthamajig to work, no matter what I tried.
Eventually admitted defeat, moved on and add the rest, will take it into the shop tomorrow for brake fixing.
Current build:
- lexon gravel bars (38-90)
- Boland gravel suspension fork (I plan on swapping between this and the stock fork)
- Roval c38 wheels off my old bike
- sram Axs (rival/gx) Groupset
- SIGEYI Axs power meter with a (surprising) 48T chainring with no clearance issues
- (after brakes are sorted) Vittoria mezcal 2.1 tyres (mainly coz I can’t get thunder burts anywhere)
Which issues do you have with the SRAM stealth a majig?
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Which issues do you have with the SRAM stealth a majig?
Couldn’t get the valve to release. Turns out I had the olive on backwards, so that’s solved now.
Now I just need to remove the play from the headset, seems I have a similar issue to others here in that regard
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The Lecon bar comes with two c rings, one plastic one metal. Use the plastic one, metal is regularly trash as is often out of tolerance. Then you should not have any headset play.
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The Lecon bar comes with two c rings, one plastic one metal. Use the plastic one, metal is regularly trash as is often out of tolerance. Then you should not have any headset play.
Did exactly that this morning, and seems to work. Thanks!
Just tyres to go now
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Mezcals on, and plenty of room (21mm internal rim helps there)
Also chainring clearance with a 48 tooth
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You could try a 52x40x7 bearing with 45/45 degree and another crown race
Thanks, that solved it, weird that this FSA bearing is not that standard, I won't change the top one, because for that I would have to reroute the brake hose, but with the bottom one it seems fine.
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Nice. Top was also no problem when I used the FSA bearings for their ACR system.
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You could try a 52x40x7 bearing with 45/45 degree and another crown race
Are you 100% on the height of that bearing? I asked them for the specs as I wanted to source my own bearings and they sent me this picture below. It's an 52x40 with 45/45° but at 8H. Now got me wondering what the correct size is ...
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Yes, these are the sizes. I use them currently with SLT bearings. 8 mm height could also work maybe with a slightly larger gap.
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Yeah, don't like unnecessary gaps. Will get the 7H then. Cool, thanks for confirming!
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Are you 100% on the height of that bearing? I asked them for the specs as I wanted to source my own bearings and they sent me this picture below. It's an 52x40 with 45/45° but at 8H. Now got me wondering what the correct size is ...
I hade something like this, standard chinese bearing: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006126989753.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.42c118021uH6Ib (the 52 one)
It is not even specified what are the exact values of the bottom bearing.
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Did 100mile gravel race on the bike yesterday. Held up really well over some pretty rough corrugated roads. Hard to tell, but I suspect the 2.1 tyres helped more than the cheap gravel suspension fork.
I put the stock fork on this morning and the bike feels a lot better now (slightly slacker, so less twitchy with no toe overlap. And also no “squish”, which I prefer). And, obviously, much lighter.
Had to do a bit of a bodge with the brake hose, since I specifically want the ability to swap forks without rerouting cables. Seems ok, if a little fugly.
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AHHHH! That's what those screws on the fork are for! Finally solved! :D :D :D
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Hi All! Will these thru axles fit my fork and frame? Length, diameter, length and thread pitch?
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Probably not. Iirc the pitch for the fork is 1.5mm; the rear pitch depends on your UDH. Mine will come with a 1.0 pitch but other factories might send other UDH. I don't have the frame yet, so you either wanna confirm with the factory that you bought from or someone else who has the frame already.
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Hi All! Will these thru axles fit my fork and frame? Length, diameter, length and thread pitch?
Im using that rear axle, seems good, maybe could be 1-2 mm longer but didnt look too closely, seemed to be enough thread engaging
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My frame arrived yesterday and I really love it. Still waiting for my wheels.
However, when I put in one of my old wheels yesterday, it seemed to be out of center. The distance between wheel and chain stay is about 3 mm less on the drive side. Did someone have the same problem?
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Hey! I can finally post my Tideace Noah too 8)
Frame : Size 49 (I'm 173cm / Inseam 80 / Saddle height 69cm for reference)
Color : Matte metallic purple without any logos. I don't have a color code, i just pointed to one of their instagram post and said "i want that please"
Groupset : Shimano GRX 820 front and rear derailleurs (2x12s) / GRX 610 for the hoods and crankset / GRX 400 for the brake calipers (boooo) and a 105 12s road cassette 11-34
Cockpit : Lexon Unox 90/380 mm with 15mm of spacers
Pedals : Shimano XT
Seatpost : Still playing with setback/no setback, for now it's a cheap Neatt Carbon
Saddle : Prologo Dimension NDR
Tyres : The brand new Hutchinson Caracal in 45mm
Wheels : Some cheap heavy OEM Felt rims with entry level Shimano hubs
Top tube bag : Cervelo Smartpack
Weight : 9.45kg as pictured (without the bottles and gps)
I was riding a Felt Breed 30 in size 54 and it was a bit on the bigger side and too upright for my liking. Decided to jump on the Tideace wagon for something more agressive. And boy, people didn't lie : it's a loooong boy lol. Still, it's a very comfy ride yet the frame is quite stiff and very responsive. There's some slight toe overlap with my size 40 shoe and 172.5mm cranks, but only at some weird ankle angle. Nothing that will make crash while riding or stop me from turning the front wheel.
All in all it took 1 month for the frame to arrive here in France (Order placed 3rd April, delivered May 7th). Great communication with Eddy, except that i asked for the cover to be painted too and he forgot to tell me before shipping that they couldn't paint a matte finish onto the plastic. Had to pay for a new cover with a glossy finish, i'll try to make it work somehow.
Already clocked 350km on a mix of road, farmland trail and wide forest road and it's been a blast so far. Now i'm just waiting Shimano to release the wireless XTR/XT groupset (and maybe GRX?) because i'm not touching those mechanical cables internally routed anymore, that was not fun AT ALL, can't recommend lol. Will get a real wheelset too at the end of the month, i can feel that right now it's dragging the bike down.
Can't attached the picture, so here's a link :
https://imgur.com/a/jkkHeVX (https://imgur.com/a/jkkHeVX)
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I really like the features of this frame (tire clearance, mounting points, internal storage) but I'm looking for something with less aggressive geometry. Any suggestions?
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Lol before I opened the image in full size, I thought you went with some crazy 4-spoke carbon wheels :D
2nd lol on that wahoo case :D
How do you like the handlebars? Good fit?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R33dxUQh9hM
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Eddy, your images never appear for me.
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It's because it's not an image but a YT link which this forum sucks at handling. It wants to embed it but fails at rendering the object. Therefore, I always recommend to put YT links in code section like so:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R33dxUQh9hM
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Yes, it is the video on youtube, but not appeared, so strange.
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Lol before I opened the image in full size, I thought you went with some crazy 4-spoke carbon wheels :D
2nd lol on that wahoo case :D
How do you like the handlebars? Good fit?
I expected the cockpit to be something really stiff, but there's a bit of flex in the drop which makes it quite comfy overall while riding.
Still need to sort out the headset play. Both metal and plastic compression ring shipped with the cockpit aren't 100% tight on my bearing. Nothing dramatic for now tho, but i'll probably need to get another headset.
And yeah, cat ears are A E R O lmao
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What headset bearings are you using?
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Looking for crank/chainring options.
I live in quite flat lands so planning to run something from 46 to 50t chainring.
I see some people struggle to run 44t chainrings, some do it 48t somehow. Could someone tell me how can I run biggest chainring on this frame? I plan on running Sram 1x mullet setup.
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What headset bearings are you using?
The one Tideace gave with the frameset. Which, looking back at this thread, wasn't probably the best choice.
It works for now tho and i reallllyyy don't want to redo the whole integrated routing again with 4 cables.
Just saw the new wireless XTR Di2 announcement and it's backward compatible with GRX Di2 hood. So that's promising for my next upgrade.
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Looking for crank/chainring options.
I live in quite flat lands so planning to run something from 46 to 50t chainring.
I see some people struggle to run 44t chainrings, some do it 48t somehow. Could someone tell me how can I run biggest chainring on this frame? I plan on running Sram 1x mullet setup.
SRAM Wide is maxed out at 46T
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I´m really thorn between a 52 and a 54.
Givent that i currently run a 56 that is clearly a liitle large and have to use an 80stem with almost maxed out saddle forward to reduce total reach.
Stats:
1,77cm
84 inseam
Current bike geo
Reach: 384
Stack height: 606
Effective top tube lenght: 570
I'm afraid of of too small of a frame for stable descent, which i do quote a lot and like to keep doing so!
Whats your take?
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SRAM Wide is maxed out at 46T
Any way to increase clearance with spacers or chainrings? :D
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I can see quite a few photos here with the supplied integrated handlebar but - are there any issues with it?
Reading on various forums there seems to be low quality on the compression ring and parts provided in general which creates some play. Has this issue been fixed as of lately? I'm contemplating on cancelling the handlebar just for this reason. Eddie claims there are no issues at all.
Thanks
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I can see quite a few photos here with the supplied integrated handlebar but - are there any issues with it?
Reading on various forums there seems to be low quality on the compression ring and parts provided in general which creates some play. Has this issue been fixed as of lately? I'm contemplating on cancelling the handlebar just for this reason. Eddie claims there are no issues at all.
Thanks
When there is a proven Lexon bar, why take the seller's word ?
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So my GR201 Bike Build has finally begun. Cable routing was "interesting" lets say. Rear chain stay was pretty blocked and hard to get gear cable through. I have internal video of and I will post on the final youttube video of the project. And the handle bar was tight as all hell to get 3 cables into. But I am using compressionless which I believe is harder to manipulate.
Anyway, all run now and about to tidy up and tighten up things.
BUT I have a question. The bearing on the bottom of the head unit - should there be a spacer of some kind between that and the fork? I attach a pic. Does it just go on like that and with some grease? Just a one piece system?
Thanks for help - I don't want to go any further until I know this for sure. But I dont have any other bits from Tan Tan that look like they would go there.
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Any way to increase clearance with spacers or chainrings? :D
I don’t know I have about 2 mm of space to the chainstay
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So my GR201 Bike Build has finally begun. Cable routing was "interesting" lets say. Rear chain stay was pretty blocked and hard to get gear cable through. I have internal video of and I will post on the final youttube video of the project. And the handle bar was tight as all hell to get 3 cables into. But I am using compressionless which I believe is harder to manipulate.
Anyway, all run now and about to tidy up and tighten up things.
BUT I have a question. The bearing on the bottom of the head unit - should there be a spacer of some kind between that and the fork? I attach a pic. Does it just go on like that and with some grease? Just a one piece system?
Thanks for help - I don't want to go any further until I know this for sure. But I dont have any other bits from Tan Tan that look like they would go there.
Integrated crown race so just grease
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So my GR201 Bike Build has finally begun. Cable routing was "interesting" lets say. Rear chain stay was pretty blocked and hard to get gear cable through. I have internal video of and I will post on the final youttube video of the project. And the handle bar was tight as all hell to get 3 cables into. But I am using compressionless which I believe is harder to manipulate.
Anyway, all run now and about to tidy up and tighten up things.
BUT I have a question. The bearing on the bottom of the head unit - should there be a spacer of some kind between that and the fork? I attach a pic. Does it just go on like that and with some grease? Just a one piece system?
Thanks for help - I don't want to go any further until I know this for sure. But I dont have any other bits from Tan Tan that look like they would go there.
Hello,
Don't take it badly but because of your question, the difficulties you had show that you don't have a lot of experience with bike building. With the right tools and techniques, it's pretty easy to mount the cable through the frame and bars, you'll find the tricks 8)
And yes, you just need grease and the bearing just seat on the crown of the fork like that.
Have fun :)
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Hello,
Don't take it badly but because of your question, the difficulties you had show that you don't have a lot of experience with bike building. With the right tools and techniques, it's pretty easy to mount the cable through the frame and bars, you'll find the tricks 8)
And yes, you just need grease and the bearing just seat on the crown of the fork like that.
Have fun :)
No offence taken :-) I have absolutely no experience in doing this. My first build.
https://youtu.be/3i6iXBJcv3U?si=39k9VwIRiWb2lkb5
Will do a follow up vid when all done. But the vid I have with an internal scope will show the blockage that prevented the cable going through.
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I´m really thorn between a 52 and a 54.
Givent that i currently run a 56 that is clearly a liitle large and have to use an 80stem with almost maxed out saddle forward to reduce total reach.
Stats:
1,77cm
84 inseam
Current bike geo
Reach: 384
Stack height: 606
Effective top tube lenght: 570
I'm afraid of of too small of a frame for stable descent, which i do quote a lot and like to keep doing so!
Whats your take?
I was also undecided between a 52 and 54. I'm currently riding a Elves Falath Evo 2023 with 378mm reach and 540 stack, all spacers, orome handlebar with 70mm reach and 100mm stem length.
I'm almost the same height als you are with the exact same inseam and went with a 54 and a 80mm handlebar. You can check your geo and compare it at bike-stats.[de], with handlebar numbers even. [https://xybikecalc.com/] is also an interesting site, where you can compare geo's in raw numbers and see how increasing or decreasing certain values change the stack and reach of the selected bike. My Falath evo also has a 25mm setback seatpost and the 54 compared to the 52 has also the higher stack without increasing the reach too much (only 4mm iirc). The bigger frame will be more stable on the rougher terrain I guess and there's more space for bikepacking bags, which I also want to do with this frame.
I don't have the frame yet, so I can't give you feedback on the actual fit, but that's the theory I've gone with. Maybe that's helping a bit.
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I ordered from Tan Tan, did you guys get thru axles with your order? Just got my frame and bars and none were included.
Thanks.
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I did - but I specificially requested and paid extra from them.
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hey guys, i dont have access to my bike right now. i was just wondering what kind of thru axles are in the rear? what kind of thread? i need to buy a new thruaxle for my bike trailer, the kids want to take a ride with the new bike :D
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Hi! I bought this one exactly with these parameters, in my opinion it could be a few mm longer, but it still works.
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142 / 12mm
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142 / 12mm
Thats not the through axle dimension, the one from Jarq90
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I was also undecided between a 52 and 54. I'm currently riding a Elves Falath Evo 2023 with 378mm reach and 540 stack, all spacers, orome handlebar with 70mm reach and 100mm stem length.
I'm almost the same height als you are with the exact same inseam and went with a 54 and a 80mm handlebar. You can check your geo and compare it at bike-stats.[de], with handlebar numbers even. [https://xybikecalc.com/] is also an interesting site, where you can compare geo's in raw numbers and see how increasing or decreasing certain values change the stack and reach of the selected bike. My Falath evo also has a 25mm setback seatpost and the 54 compared to the 52 has also the higher stack without increasing the reach too much (only 4mm iirc). The bigger frame will be more stable on the rougher terrain I guess and there's more space for bikepacking bags, which I also want to do with this frame.
I don't have the frame yet, so I can't give you feedback on the actual fit, but that's the theory I've gone with. Maybe that's helping a bit.
Thank you, that heled a ton!
Please do report on riding quality and comfort as soon as you are able to, please. I'm really curious! ;)
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Built it up last night.
-105 DI2
-Magene PES PM
-2.2 Racekings. Will have to replace the rear, clearance is too tight
-52cm frame
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The 52 frame with those chunky tires really looks like ... something :D
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I'm trying to source what I need to fit a Redshift stem and handlebar to the GR201.
Are either of these headsets compatible?
Ricthie
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/ritchey-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6-steering-system/137710158/p?utm_source=google_buscador&utm_medium=recommended4u-cr&attributionToken=ChMyNjA3NDU2ODMzNjA5NDUzMDAwEA0aI3JlY29tbWVuZGVfcmVjb21tZW5kZV8xNzQ1MzIxMTE5NDgwIhByZWNvbW1lbmRlZDR1LWNyKAA6KPrx0RKy8dESjPLREvfx0RKP8tESqfLRErTx0RKt8tESvvLRErvy0RI&buscador_search
FSA
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-n-69-scr-headset/137860935/p?utm_source=google_buscador&utm_medium=recommended4u-cr&attributionToken=ChMyNjA3NDU2ODMzNjA5NDUzMDAwEA0aI3JlY29tbWVuZGVfcmVjb21tZW5kZV8xNzQ1MzIxMTE5NDgwIhByZWNvbW1lbmRlZDR1LWNyKAA6KPrx0RKy8dESjPLREvfx0RKP8tESqfLRErTx0RKt8tESvvLRErvy0RI&buscador_search
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The Ritchey should fit, the FSA only if you replace the lower bearing against 45/45 degree
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Just about done with my build, only needs bar tape and seatpost. I ordered a seatpost and saddle from Elita One, but still waiting for delivery. In the meantime, using the Elita One post and saddle from my road bike for photos/test fit.
- size 54, custom paint done by myself
- SRAM X01 10-50, XX1 chain, GX AXS derailleur w/ Garbaruk
- TRP Hylex brakes/levers
- Aerozine 17 crankset 160-165mm, CSixx 42t chainring
- Drive 6 gravel wheels I got from Leon last year
- Panaracer X1R 45mm
- Deda Gera alloy bars 44cm
- Enve mtb stem for now, because I had it in the stem box and it's about the correct length. Still searching for a proper stem (any suggestions?)!
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Nice one! How long did it take you to paint it?
The colors really match that rusty chain! (SCNR ;D)
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Just about done with my build, only needs bar tape and seatpost. I ordered a seatpost and saddle from Elita One, but still waiting for delivery. In the meantime, using the Elita One post and saddle from my road bike for photos/test fit.
- size 54, custom paint done by myself
- SRAM X01 10-50, XX1 chain, GX AXS derailleur w/ Garbaruk
- TRP Hylex brakes/levers
- Aerozine 17 crankset 160-165mm, CSixx 42t chainring
- Drive 6 gravel wheels I got from Leon last year
- Panaracer X1R 45mm
- Deda Gera alloy bars 44cm
- Enve mtb stem for now, because I had it in the stem box and it's about the correct length. Still searching for a proper stem (any suggestions?)!
Nice build!
How do you find the wheelset? Especially from compliance standpoint? I am interėsted in such wheelset from aesthethical perspective but it’s slightly higher weight than similar value ”regular” wheelset and if it’s also worse experience wise, then would have to move on from considering it.
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Nice build!
How do you find the wheelset? Especially from compliance standpoint? I am interėsted in such wheelset from aesthethical perspective but it’s slightly higher weight than similar value ”regular” wheelset and if it’s also worse experience wise, then would have to move on from considering it.
I honestly can't say much, other than they ride more or less the same as other carbon gravel wheels with similar dimensions that I've ridden in the past. ;D
I haven't ridden them too much, but I have pushed them pretty hard on local trails. I've also used them for two very technical "gravel" races on my steel gravel bike and they didn't hold me back at all.
I quite like them and I think they're my main gravel wheels now. They sound amazing at high speeds, lol. The freehub is also incredibly loud.
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Nice one! How long did it take you to paint it?
The colors really match that rusty chain! (SCNR ;D)
If I had worked on it consistently I could have finished in a week I think. I took my time on this one and worked in short sessions over a good amount of time. I ordered the frame unpainted, so prep work was easy. Colors were simple enough and the pattern is just smoke from a Walmart tiki torch.
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-Magene PES PM
-2.2 Racekings. Will have to replace the rear, clearance is too tight
Do you have the P505 or P515 PM? Did you need/use any spacers or did it fit "as is"?
What tire options are you looking at for that rear wheel?
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Just back from first shakedown ride. Other than a little brake rub, everything looks and feels great. Very happy for my first build. Gear Indexing was a faf - but when I was actually out riding it felt and sounded better than in the bike stand. Hopefully get the YT Vid completed in next day or two.
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Just back from first shakedown ride. Other than a little brake rub, everything looks and feels great. Very happy for my first build. Gear Indexing was a faf - but when I was actually out riding it felt and sounded better than in the bike stand. Hopefully get the YT Vid completed in next day or two.
For a bike that screams „racing“ the spacer stack is waaayyy to high imho. Other than that, nice bike
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Cool build. Looking forward to your video. Had a good laugh at the 2nd part. You definitely got me in the first, not gonna lie! ;D
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Finished my first bike build of the Tantan GR201 this week after years of riding an old Pinarello Paris. So far I have logged about 200 kilometers with no issues.
Build process was rather smooth (thanks to the many tips and shared bike builds in the forum!), some difficulties aligning the brake callipers and still some minor brake rub, but should be fine.
Also got a gap of around 3mm between the frame and the fork that seems larger than the gap of other builds. I did not pay attention which bearing to place on top and bottom as I thought they were the same, maybe one is slightly taller which causes the bigger gap? Anyway, don't want to route the cables again so I will leave as is for now.
Running a Shimano GRX 810 1x11 setup with a Magene P515 powermeter and a 46t Riro chainring. The Shimano chain did not really cope well with the narrow wide teeth of the chainring (I think), so I switched to a KMC chain (advised byChatGPT lol). It does feel better, tough not perfect. I don't have any 1x setup with narrow wide teeth as reference but I think narrow wide teeth always have slightly higher resistance, especially at the beginning of the turn (by hand), and run a bit noisier – correct me if I am wrong. So maybe it is just the way it is supposed to be.
For the Magene powermeter I used a 2mm spacer on the drive side, 1mm could also be enough but did not have one at hand. Using no spacer did not work for me because the powermeter base rubbed on the frame or bottom bracket. Unfortunately I already have the M14 screw hole of the non drive side slightly turned through as I installed and uninstalled it 3 times to test the original GRX chainring– Magene offers to send a spare one for 5USD (+ 28USD for shipping!), so maybe ask for a second one right away or be more careful/use better tools than I did.
Have a local event coming up tomorrow with 140km and 1500m in elevation and a big challenge with over 300km and 6000m in elevation next week – will see how the bike and myself perform, especially with the 46t to 40t gear ratio.
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For a bike that screams „racing“ the spacer stack is waaayyy to high imho. Other than that, nice bike
:-) Mission accomplished then :-) I wanted to scream racing - but its not for any actual racing. Its my first ever build, I only started cycling a few years ago and its transformed my life - mental and physical health. I wanted to pay a little tribute to the things that have contributed to that journey over the last few years and for me thats Wattbike, Zwift, Joining the Atom Racing Team on Zwift and racing in my fav racing series - FRR. All that has lead to some epic IRL rides in the last 2 years doing things I'd never thought possible on a bike. This bike is my tribute to all those contributing factors.
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Cool build. Looking forward to your video. Had a good laugh at the 2nd part. You definitely got me in the first, not gonna lie! ;D
Part 3 - The full build - is now up.
https://youtu.be/GHupa8G14Do
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Built it up last night.
-105 DI2
-Magene PES PM
-2.2 Racekings. Will have to replace the rear, clearance is too tight
-52cm frame
What did you swap the rear to? With a FD max maybe 48 or 50mm?
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Do you have the P505 or P515 PM? Did you need/use any spacers or did it fit "as is"?
What tire options are you looking at for that rear wheel?
P505. Used a 1mm spacer. To check for rub I marked the frame with a felt pen, tightened up the cranks and gave a few turns under load. Then I made sure none of the marker was rubbed off by the crank.
Ended up going with THUNDER BURT 2.1. Gave me a bit more clearance. This is with 25mm internal width rims.
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What did you swap the rear to? With a FD max maybe 48 or 50mm?
Thunder Burt 2.1.
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Is there any reason the Lexon Thin Line handlebar wouldn't work on this frame? I currently have PRO LT Gravel handlebars on it with a red shift stem so I am trying to match the shape of those more closely and the Thin Line has the same flare whereas the Unox has quite a bit wider flare. I don't know if the stiffness would be a problem since it seems like the Thin Line is designed for road and is probably lighter.
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P505. Used a 1mm spacer. To check for rub I marked the frame with a felt pen, tightened up the cranks and gave a few turns under load. Then I made sure none of the marker was rubbed off by the crank.
Ended up going with THUNDER BURT 2.1. Gave me a bit more clearance. This is with 25mm internal width rims.
Got pictures of the clearance with TB 2.1 on fd?
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Sooo.... 1600 km with this frame which include 2x 220 km rides
It is my main long distance bike now, but for some reason I'm thinking about going full back on XC as a ,,do it all,, since that was always my way before this project
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Also did a 1000km tour and I'm really happy with it 👌🏼
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What tri bars are you using? Do they fit well on your aero bars or are you using a round handlebar?
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What tri bars are you using? Do they fit well on your aero bars or are you using a round handlebar?
Kocevlo tri bars for aero handlebar with the original Tantan handlebar. Doesn't fit perfectly so I filed the adapter a bit and used protective tape. But it's perfect, it's been around 2000km on it
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwOa58a
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What did you swap the rear to? With a FD max maybe 48 or 50mm?
great videos
what was the total price of build including shipping?
thanks
J
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Also did a 1000km tour and I'm really happy with it 👌🏼
Is this a tailfin mounted on the rear of your bike? Or which brand is it? And if yes, do you need some kind of special adapters for using the tailfin on this frame, as I'm also planning on doing bikepacking with it.
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Is there any reason the Lexon Thin Line handlebar wouldn't work on this frame? I currently have PRO LT Gravel handlebars on it with a red shift stem so I am trying to match the shape of those more closely and the Thin Line has the same flare whereas the Unox has quite a bit wider flare. I don't know if the stiffness would be a problem since it seems like the Thin Line is designed for road and is probably lighter.
I also ordered the Lexon Thin Line handlebar, as I'm not a huge fun of flared ones. I'm a roadie by heart. So I think you're fine, as the Thin Line uses the same spacers as the Unox, other people are using here. But considering this, I have a question for everyone who mounted the Unox on this frame:
The package came with a plastic and aluminum c-ring/compression ring. I'm almost certain I have to use the plastic one, because it gives me the height needed for the first big mandatory spacer. The aluminum one is too low, the mandatory spacer just sits on top of the headtube and doesn't engage in th alignment hole. Or am I doing something wrong here?
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Both compression rings can work. The plastic one seems to fit better for most, so preferably use that one.
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Hi everyone! I have finished building my gravel bike on the GR201 frame. When I saw the finished frame I was afraid I would have to repaint the whole thing because it seemed too bright and colorful, but after adding the rest of the black accessories I now think it turned out quite interesting. The weight of the bike weighed like in the store (without accessories and pedals) pleasantly surprised me, even though I switched tires from Tufo Thundero to Specialized Pathfinder, where each tire is 100g heavier the weight was 8,29kg. After adding Zeray pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount, mirror and a fairly heavy bell, the weight increased by 500g to 8,79kg. I am 186cm tall and the frame size is 56cm - in my opinion ideal, although now I would order a 100mm cockpit instead of the current 80mm. I was afraid that the position would be too aggressive, but for now it seems very comfortable.
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I like the color scheme, looks really well planned and executed.
But DUDE, please get rid of that "rearview" mirror. This is a performance bike not your granny's commuter! :o :D
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Hi everyone! I have finished building my gravel bike on the GR201 frame.
Great! Which rim depth and tyre size is that? Looks very "harmonious" and well balanced.
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Both compression rings can work. The plastic one seems to fit better for most, so preferably use that one.
So I started assembling the bike and everything went well so far. I've used the plastic ring and it works. Shifters are attached without spilling too much oil and making a mess like last time I've done a build. Rear derailleur mounted, crankset, seatpost and saddle. Yesterday I've went ahead and tried setting up the rims, which resulted in following problem:
I'm running Elitewheels 45 Edge-Gravel wheelset which are hooked and have an internal width of 24mm. In the front I mounted a 2.2 Conti Raceking and 2.0 in the rear. After initially setting the tyres without sealant, everything went well. Then I started handling the mess and added sealant to the front wheel. This is my first time running tubeless btw. I didn't make a huge mess to my surprise and even tho I had some spillage, I was able to clean it very quickly. I pumped up the tyres to 3.5 bar / 65 PSI which isn't the max. printed on the tyre sidewall. Didn't hear a loud pop, but everything looked fine.
To give the tyre a good spin to properly distribute the sealant, I mounted it on the bike to avoid doing it by hand. I've noticed that the front wheel still had a little wobble, so I thought it isn't perfectly seated. After demounting, I gave it a few pumps with my floor pump, so not overly exaggerate the pressure and I've heard these little pop sounds I'm familiar with and was sure, that the tyre is now seated correctly. A few seconds later these horrible cracking sounds started, continously without any pauses. In panicmode I tried to deflatet the tyre, but I was so shocked what just happened. I've never heard something like that. I demounted everything, checked the tyre and the rim. The rim has no visible cracks, no damages on the inside or outside and when I give it some thumb pressure on the sidewalls, I don't hear any delayering or cracking.
I've used the tubeless tape supplied with the wheelset. The rims are carbon btw. Did I destroy my wheel, or is it something someone has also experienced? I'm still a bit shocked and worried.
EDIT: Definitely something happened to the rim, it's out of true now.
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Got pictures of the clearance with TB 2.1 on fd?
About two keys worth.
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Hard to say without seeing the wheels what exactly happened but yeah it does sound like they had a critical failure. Might have been a leak into the chamber below which is not intended to be pressurized and might have caused a crack there. But that's just a guess. Could be anything else. Best to reach out to the seller/manufacturer and check with them. Might wanna ask in another thread that is specific to (these) wheels since this issue is nothing related to this frame itself.
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Great! Which rim depth and tyre size is that? Looks very "harmonious" and well balanced.
The wheels are Elite Edge with a 45mm rim height, and the tires are Specialized Pathfinder 42mm, although 45mm would be ideal for meI like the color scheme, looks really well planned and executed.
But DUDE, please get rid of that "rearview" mirror. This is a performance bike not your granny's commuter! :o :D
I know that the mirror and bell do not fit and only add weight, but when I go on sections on the street, they significantly increase the feeling of safety
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I cannot stress enough how much a bike radar adds to that like the Garmin Varia or wahoo TRACKR. Seriously consider getting one. If you are riding road these things became essential for me.
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I cannot stress enough how much a bike radar adds to that like the Garmin Varia or wahoo TRACKR. Seriously consider getting one. If you are riding road these things became essential for me.
I don't like riding on the road and I do it as rarely as possible, but sometimes you have to ride a bit and then it is an irreplaceable help. and on gravel the mirror helps me see how much my girlfriend is behind ;) for everyday I rather choose such terrains for riding :)
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Alright ordered Race king 2.2 for front and 2.0 for rear with FD. Let's see.
I also got my Lexon unox bar in, seems nice. Just wish I could fully route the cables internal, but it is what it is. My bars came with purple stem bolts, gotta replace those.
Also you gus said something about plastic and metal compression, which one is the plastic one?
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So why you should not be able to route the cables internal?
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So why you should not be able to route the cables internal?
Well my bars dont have holes on the inside, also not on the sleeve reducer. They come out in front of it. Maybe they work, have to check
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Ok but the Unox is an integrated handlebar?!
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So after - what felt like an ETERNITY - I finally got to finish my GV201 build last weekend as well. The first iteration, I discussed with all vendors in October last year but ultimately, the design I had in mind was too complex for them to deliver. Put it on hold after 6 weeks of back and forth. Picked it up again late March this year with a new design concept. Talked to tideacebikes, tantan, and LTbikes. Good experience with all 3 of them. Eventually went with LTbikes. Frame was delivered 2 weeks ago. Already have over 300km on it just from this week - love the bike!
I must admit, given the complexity of the paint job, I wasn't too sure how good it'll be (design execution as well as quality of the paint itself). But I think they absolutely nailed it! Probably not a design "for everyone" but I totally dig the colors and patterns.
Went with 2x because I want it to be a race-gravel bike. Tire clearance on the Thunder Burts is, ehem, "existing". Been on 4 dry rides so far where it seems fine. For wet I might need to swap the rear tire for something a bit narrower.
Some pictures attached.
BTW: my first "tinybikes"-bike now has a dedicated website, just to troll the people that were asking what brand that is :D
It's in German obviously but not much text anyway, if you are curious google translate works well though: https://tinybikes.de/
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I like the build including the painjob. Where are you located in Germany?
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I'm in Munich. If you ever see me floating around on my bikes, feel free to say hello :D
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Just ordered my frame from Eddy - black finish, frame, fork, and thru axles totaled $739 USD all in all.
The price of the raw frame was quoted as the same for the black finish. I would have gone with the raw if it was significantly cheaper.
I went with the size 56 and 100mm lexon thinline bars, I'm 188cm with a slightly longer than average torso
I just realized that my old mtb wheels I was planning to reuse have hubs that are too wide. Perhaps I will order wheels from XMcarbonspeed 🤔
Seeing SillyMochi's er9 FD clear the tyres is encouraging - I wasn't sure if this fat FD would be too big.
All your build guides and notes helped me pick parts - specifically with the headset bearing spec and sizing information. Thanks y'all!
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Well my bars dont have holes on the inside, also not on the sleeve reducer. They come out in front of it. Maybe they work, have to check
This is how all integrated bars work, unless you have a D shaped steerer tube and a very specific set of bars/stem (e.g. Factor, Colnago, Winspace). The hoses will come out in front of the steerer tube, routed through the headset spacers, and will be completely hidden.
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This is how all integrated bars work, unless you have a D shaped steerer tube and a very specific set of bars/stem (e.g. Factor, Colnago, Winspace). The hoses will come out in front of the steerer tube, routed through the headset spacers, and will be completely hidden.
Yeah I have a Factor Ostro VAM this is why I was wondering. Ill make it work
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You guys used the left piece I assume? I read some posts about not using the alu piece that you also get with the TideAce bars.
https://gyazo.com/a5e4d7ecabeaf0361ec331fc851f6fe5
Bars feel pretty solid, this new Lexon bars.
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Yes. You can try the alloy insert but I predict you will be able to move the fork front to back slightly.
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Quick question on headset bearings - So I'm pretty sure they are 52x40x7. What I can't find for sure is if they are 36x45 or 45x45 degree? Anyone know.
About to "upgrade" to a Redshift Handlebar and stem using this headset .... but its 45x45 bearings and every now and then I see 36x45 on other recommended bearings for this frame.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/ritchey-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6-steering-system/137710158/p
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So after - what felt like an ETERNITY - I finally got to finish my GV201 build last weekend as well. The first iteration, I discussed with all vendors in October last year but ultimately, the design I had in mind was too complex for them to deliver. Put it on hold after 6 weeks of back and forth. Picked it up again late March this year with a new design concept. Talked to tideacebikes, tantan, and LTbikes. Good experience with all 3 of them. Eventually went with LTbikes. Frame was delivered 2 weeks ago. Already have over 300km on it just from this week - love the bike!
I must admit, given the complexity of the paint job, I wasn't too sure how good it'll be (design execution as well as quality of the paint itself). But I think they absolutely nailed it! Probably not a design "for everyone" but I totally dig the colors and patterns.
Went with 2x because I want it to be a race-gravel bike. Tire clearance on the Thunder Burts is, ehem, "existing". Been on 4 dry rides so far where it seems fine. For wet I might need to swap the rear tire for something a bit narrower.
Some pictures attached.
BTW: my first "tinybikes"-bike now has a dedicated website, just to troll the people that were asking what brand that is :D
It's in German obviously but not much text anyway, if you are curious google translate works well though: https://tinybikes.de/
Love your build. Would you mind sharing the paintjob cost and the total build cost? Thanks
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Quick question on headset bearings - So I'm pretty sure they are 52x40x7. What I can't find for sure is if they are 36x45 or 45x45 degree? Anyone know.
About to "upgrade" to a Redshift Handlebar and stem using this headset .... but its 45x45 bearings and every now and then I see 36x45 on other recommended bearings for this frame.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/ritchey-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6-steering-system/137710158/p
It’s 52x40x7 45/45. Get them here: https://www.kugellager-shop.net/
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Getting jealous seeing all these finished builds. You guys did an amazing job, especially the blue/yellow one - also nice to see a fellow german. Anyway, I spent the last week dealing with EliteWheels on Aliexpress, because I had a problem with the front wheel I previously discussed. My update was, that the rim visually didn't get damaged, but it was definitely out of true. The discussion with the team of EliteWheels was kinda tiring, because it seemed that they didn't understand what happened. They were sure, that the rim is only out of true and that this happened during shipping, which I denied, because the rims were true right out the box. Only after I initiated a refund, which was validated by aliexpress support already, they want to send me a completly new front wheel. All of this seems rather exhausting if you consider, that EliteWheels is a established brand within our circle anyway, has a good reputation and is basically recommended to anyone, who don't wanna empty their wallets. Also many people on here seem to ride the same kind of rim, which helped my decision to order a set from them. Ironically they advertise their 1000 day warranty, I hope that this isn't always the rule if you have to deal with them.
Fingers crossed I get my new front wheel in a few weeks, because I planned to take the road- and gravelbike on my upcoming vacation with me. Wish me luck!
EDIT: Got the confirmation that I really get a new front wheel now, after they initially wanted to sent me a different one...
Anyway, does anyone know which cassette spacer I need to use, if I want to mount my ZTTO 11-50 cassette on my 10/11/12 speed freehub? My recherche suggested a 1.85mm spacer, but I want to be confirmed. Tried mounting without a spacer - as I don't have one atm - and there is still a huge gap and can't tighten it properly.
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I'm in Munich. If you ever see me floating around on my bikes, feel free to say hello :D
Ha! I saw your pictures and immediately figured that you were in Germany. Very cool looking bike!
My work sends me to Frankfurt from the US often and sometimes Hamburg, but never Munich. (I was in Frankfurt all this past week riding nearly every day after work).
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Hi, I'm in the process of building my GV201 frame. Does anyone else think the 165mm rear axle is a bit short? I have that feeling. I don't know if anyone who's been using this frame for a while can give me more information? Thanks.
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Hi, I'm in the process of building my GV201 frame. Does anyone else think the 165mm rear axle is a bit short? I have that feeling. I don't know if anyone who's been using this frame for a while can give me more information? Thanks.
They sent me a 172. It was obviously too long when I went to install it for the first time. Swapped for a 168 I already had as a spare from another bike and it works perfect.
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Finally done with my build and found some time to ride it. I need some more miles on it to gather some more thoughts and come to a conclusion, but here's some initial thoughts.
It's a nice bike, lighter than my steel bike but not quite as snappy. It doesn't feel as fast, but Strava says speed is more or less the same. It feels like a monster truck in comparison. I definitely notice the long chainstays and overall wheelbase.
Will be swapping out the stem for something a bit longer for sure, as well as lowering the stack height by 10-20mm.
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Finally done with my build and found some time to ride it. I need some more miles on it to gather some more thoughts and come to a conclusion, but here's some initial thoughts.
It's a nice bike, lighter than my steel bike but not quite as snappy. It doesn't feel as fast, but Strava says speed is more or less the same. It feels like a monster truck in comparison. I definitely notice the long chainstays and overall wheelbase.
Will be swapping out the stem for something a bit longer for sure, as well as lowering the stack height by 10-20mm.
Nice looking bike - I'm interested in the groupset/drivetrain setup. Can you provide more info? And is that a Tideace paint job?
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Nice looking bike - I'm interested in the groupset/drivetrain setup. Can you provide more info? And is that a Tideace paint job?
Hey there, I made this paint job myself. Here's a quick parts rundown:
TRP Hylex brakes/levers with SRAM wireless blips tucked in the lever body for shifting
GX AXS derailleur with Garbaruk mod, X01 cassette, XX1 chain
Aerozine 17 crankset
CSixx 42t chainring
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Finally done with my build and found some time to ride it. I need some more miles on it to gather some more thoughts and come to a conclusion, but here's some initial thoughts.
It's a nice bike, lighter than my steel bike but not quite as snappy. It doesn't feel as fast, but Strava says speed is more or less the same. It feels like a monster truck in comparison. I definitely notice the long chainstays and overall wheelbase.
Will be swapping out the stem for something a bit longer for sure, as well as lowering the stack height by 10-20mm.
Good looking bike. What are those wheels?
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Hey there, I made this paint job myself. Here's a quick parts rundown:
TRP Hylex brakes/levers with SRAM wireless blips tucked in the lever body for shifting
GX AXS derailleur with Garbaruk mod, X01 cassette, XX1 chain
Aerozine 17 crankset
CSixx 42t chainring
I thought there was something funny with the groupset as I could see it was TRP levers but I couldnt see a cable to the derailleur. Sram Blips tucked in - nice. Thats actually a pretty cheap setup for wireless isn't it. What is it 350euro for the derailleur and 100 for a blip? Thats tempting I must say. Actually combine that with the Zeno Hydrolic connectors and you would have a really cheap way of swapping out drop bar for flat bar in about 5 mins. Blip fitted on each bar and just disconnect the hoses, remove bar from stem fit new bar to stem, reconnect hoses and away. This is on my project list now.
And DIY Paint job - thats lovely mate. Really like everything about this. Just different.
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Good looking bike. What are those wheels?
It's an OEM set of the Elite Drive 6 wheels that I got from Leon (Yuanan) a while ago
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I thought there was something funny with the groupset as I could see it was TRP levers but I couldnt see a cable to the derailleur. Sram Blips tucked in - nice. Thats actually a pretty cheap setup for wireless isn't it. What is it 350euro for the derailleur and 100 for a blip? Thats tempting I must say. Actually combine that with the Zeno Hydrolic connectors and you would have a really cheap way of swapping out drop bar for flat bar in about 5 mins. Blip fitted on each bar and just disconnect the hoses, remove bar from stem fit new bar to stem, reconnect hoses and away. This is on my project list now.
And DIY Paint job - thats lovely mate. Really like everything about this. Just different.
Thanks! It's a bit cheaper than a full SRAM set for sure, but not much. Those hydraulic connectors are a good idea.
If you end up getting a set of these TRP levers, you'll see that they come with their own coupler, but I don't think it's technically meant to be reconnected without replacing the olive. In practice, I've done it once with no issues. For the purposes of this frame, I removed them to simplify the hose routing process.
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Hello, I need help!
Would like to order this frame from Tan Tan, but hesitate between size 54 and 56. Am 181cm myself and my inseam is 83cm. Physically I am not the most flexible cyclist.
Teake
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So the saga continues. My frame was initially shipped in April, arrived in my country in May but due to a fuck up by the norwegian postal service it was shipped to the other side of the country, and when they finally realised what they had done they managed to return it to Seraph instead of sending it to me. Super annoying and it resulted in me having to pay twice for shipping as they (postal service) said only the sender could request a refund. Shit, ok I'll pay again as Jessi said this would be a big hassle and I just wanted the frame asap.
Cue to today, I finally got the notification that the package had arrived and was ready for pick up. Drive straight to the post office and my heart sank when I saw the package. A huge hit on a corner. I hoped for the best but when I inspected the frame there is severe damage in the head set, and the frame is likely just garbage now. Sent Jessi an e-mail right away and am hoping for a quick reply as it's been four months since ordering and I really don't want to wait until the season is over before getting a new one.
What do you think? Bearings won't even go in and regardless I wouldn't dare to ride it with this crack. I feel it inside the head set too, so it's probably worse than it looks too..
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The Frame is done. I hope you have a picture documentation for the postal service.
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So I wanted to add the Redshift Suspension Stem and Kitchen Sink bar to the bike which meant removing the integrated bar that came with the bike and obviously then the headset that matches that bar.
So I needed a headset that had an exit for the brake hoses.
Ordered the “Ritchey Upper Logic-E Comp Cartridge Drop In 1.5 IS52/28.6” - quite the mouthful 😂
Anyway it fit fantastic and did exactly what I needed it to do. Pics attached for anyone looking for similar solution.
I ordered the spacers separate, cheap add on, and I’ve left them all in for now until I dial in the fit. And the split fully in half for easy add/remove without having to disconnect hoses.
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Any one running 650b on theirs? Ordering mine soon and will build it up with parts from the bike bin. State says a 2.4 fits, but just double checking.
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Anyone riding a SRAM DUB Wide crankset with a 46T chainring? What chainline are you getting and how many spacers do you have on the drive side?
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I use the BBinfinite BB with 6.5 mm spacer on the DS. The chainline should be standard so 47.5 mm.
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So the saga continues. My frame was initially shipped in April, arrived in my country in May but due to a fuck up by the norwegian postal service it was shipped to the other side of the country, and when they finally realised what they had done they managed to return it to Seraph instead of sending it to me. Super annoying and it resulted in me having to pay twice for shipping as they (postal service) said only the sender could request a refund. Shit, ok I'll pay again as Jessi said this would be a big hassle and I just wanted the frame asap.
Cue to today, I finally got the notification that the package had arrived and was ready for pick up. Drive straight to the post office and my heart sank when I saw the package. A huge hit on a corner. I hoped for the best but when I inspected the frame there is severe damage in the head set, and the frame is likely just garbage now. Sent Jessi an e-mail right away and am hoping for a quick reply as it's been four months since ordering and I really don't want to wait until the season is over before getting a new one.
What do you think? Bearings won't even go in and regardless I wouldn't dare to ride it with this crack. I feel it inside the head set too, so it's probably worse than it looks too..
That's unfortunate! That frame is toast. You could probably get it repaired but not worth the hassle. I would ask them to send out a new one.
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I do not have Tideace, but my 3T is limited to 44t nw sram chainring on wide spindle. You should not alter chainset with spacers, but get ring with proper offset to fit and keep manufacturers recommended setup for spacers. Stock sram rings have 6.5mm offset.
There are 2 options, either 8bolt spider with 0 offset nw chainring on outer side which will give you extra 3mm for big ring, or i found Keos aero chanirings on Ali, which have 3mm offset. With Keos spider I can run single 46ring on standard spindle with room left, I believe 48t would also fit on mine. Currently use double 48/35 passquest rings on that spider and bought 46ring just because it was a bit more than just a spider.
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The 46T fits on this frameset with SRAM wide. I use it myself.
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The 46T fits on this frameset with SRAM wide. I use it myself.
What's your frame size? I saw someone else using 46t, but I couldn't figure out the size
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Size 58
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Build done!
Size 56 frame - black gloss - $730
Lexon Thinline bars 100x400mm - $160
SRAM Force shifters/calipers - $330
Eagle X01 AXS RD - (Repurposed) - $0
Aftermarket jockey wheel & pulleys - $25
Senicx PR3 cranks, 24mm spindle - $45
WUZEI NW Chainring, 46T, 4mm offset - $29
sram gx chain - $35
sram xx1 cassette, 10-50t (Repurposed) - $0
specialized roubaix seatpost ~20mm offset (Repurposed) - $0
RYET cromoly rail EVA saddle - $25
NECO headset bearings - $14
ztto t47i bottom bracket - $20
spd pedals - $25
ICAN Alpha 50 plus wheels - $600
schwalbe pro one 32mm tyres - $120
For just north of $2k I feel like I did pretty well considering this is the era of tariffs.
Some build notes: The tantan headset bearings feel really gritty. I would recommend replacing them. I had to overtorque the Lexon Thinline bars to prevent them from slipping from the fork. I had to add a 3mm on the drive side of the pr3 crankset to prevent the wuzei chainring from fouling the chainstay. There is about a 2mm gap between the chainring and the chainstay. This wuzei chainring is good but makes a slight clicking sound when pedaling on the bigger cogs. I replaced all the included steel frame bolts with cheap titanium ones. The ICAN freehub is so loud. I’m gonna buy some thicker grease to silence the incredible whine because the medium grease I used didn’t cut it.
I just finished a big ride with lots of climbing and fast descents. This bike rips, but the cornering is slightly sedate compared to my old 2005 all-road bike. That’s an acceptable concession for big tyre clearance. The fit is impeccable – I had the measurements dialed before ordering everything and the fit is exactly the same as my old bike. I am 188cm and feel very comfortable with the size. This frame rocks! I love putting all my tools and stuff in the down tube. I didn’t have to face anything. The paint seems really easy to mar though. I can’t wait to get some gravel tires and rip some fire roads.
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Nice. I'm 183cm tall as well, and ordered a size 54 with 110 stem handlebars. This makes me feel good about sizing LoL
that's interesting, I'm 177 and bring recommended the 54 also. my gut feel is the 52 though, reinforced if you're OK on the 54 at 6cm taller than me
anyone else care to reveal their height, their frame size and whether or not they would change if ordering again?
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Hi,
Cut my steerer tube yesterday and did a mock assembly. Is it normal to have this much gaps? I tried by switching positions between the bearings, but did not help. Used everything that came with the stock headset from Tantan.
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I see that not all my pictures were included.
Sorry for this!
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Headset bearings should be 7 mm height. The lower gap will close a little bit with headset compression. I assume that you are using the handlebar that comes with the frame. It’s trash …
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I planned to use it. Got an alu handlebar from another bike, I might use that one instead.
Why is it trash? Has anyone broken it? I felt that the plastic spacers felt really cheap….
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Cheap spacer and C ring out of tolerance so it moves on the fork front to back. Next best option is the Lexon Unox that works very well on this frameset.
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Ordered the Lexon Unox now. :)
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can anyone tell me the width and height of the downtube? I want to order frame protection tape for under, and have some decals made for the sides, and have them ordered so they can go on when the frame arrives
thanks
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So am also looking into this awesome looking frame, already have quote from LT.
I am curious about sizing, I also have the VB-R-168 road bike in size XL / 58 cm ish with a 42cm handlebar.
189 cm high and looking more for comfort that aero. Would 58cm also be the natural choice for the GR/GV201 frame?
Right now i have a 42 cm handlebar, but based on recommendations from this thread I think i will use the Lexon Unox handlebar that have 20 degrees flare, would it make sense to go with 40cm instead?
Now I just also need to find the right color/design that might be the most difficult thing :)
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seems like the lexon unox is the "go to" for integrated setup, but whats the equivalent when it comes to separate bar/stem/headset? I don't know what length stem I'll need, so prefer to get separate components so that I don't need to replace entire unit if I want to adjust.
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Any stem bar combo should work. Whatever you prefer. Might want to try Deda Superbox stem.
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Thanks, I spotted that one, but it's too expensive if i don't get the length right the first time - 80-90 euro or so.
My idea is to get something which I'd be happy to 'dispose of' initially, possibly 2 or 3 lenghts depending, and then when decided on length invest in an integrated cockpit.
Or not - maybe even just stick with the cheap stem.
Will pretty much any concealed stem/handlebar combo work so in that case? Maybe even should go with the FSA69 headset, non-concealed cheapo stem and internal bars?
Found this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007557399904.html - similar to the superbox but could get 3 different lengths for the same price!
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While browsing around online, I came across this bike, in one of the pics you can even see the pouch with “Tideace” written on it.
https://www.finnacycles.com/en/97-finna-odyssey
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that's some mark-up on the frame alone! :o
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i am looking into this frame and was wandering if someone could clarify tire clearance on this thing?
from what i understand the frame is same as State Cycles allroad V2 carbon. they claim tire clearance is 2.2" which roughly comes to 56mm.
when communicating with TanTan, the spec they sent me says 50mm.
any idea?
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Official tire size is 700*50. A 2.1“ Thunderburt fits but it is very tight and only recommendable for dry conditions.
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That's unfortunate! That frame is toast. You could probably get it repaired but not worth the hassle. I would ask them to send out a new one.
They gave me the run around. Claiming it happened during shipping which is obvious bs. Ended up having it repaired. Cost me about $200, was given a good price by a guy that was interested in the frame and my build, having only worked on high end stuff. Seraph (TanTan, whatever) offered me $60 as their part. I've ordered lots of stuff from China but this was a let down customer service wise.. I get that their margins are very small but still, I payed for a non damaged frame (and shipping twice) so you assume they'd deliver. You live and learn I guess.
In the final stages of building it up now. Will post photos and a review (of the process) next week.
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So am also looking into this awesome looking frame, already have quote from LT.
I am curious about sizing, I also have the VB-R-168 road bike in size XL / 58 cm ish with a 42cm handlebar.
189 cm high and looking more for comfort that aero. Would 58cm also be the natural choice for the GR/GV201 frame?
Right now i have a 42 cm handlebar, but based on recommendations from this thread I think i will use the Lexon Unox handlebar that have 20 degrees flare, would it make sense to go with 40cm instead?
Now I just also need to find the right color/design that might be the most difficult thing :)
Any suggestions?
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that's interesting, I'm 177 and bring recommended the 54 also. my gut feel is the 52 though, reinforced if you're OK on the 54 at 6cm taller than me
anyone else care to reveal their height, their frame size and whether or not they would change if ordering again?
He was 188 - 11cm taller - and on the 56
I’m 178 & went with the 54 based on the fit from my Canyon Grail. The 54 feels fine to me. But I think height is only a general indicator. Some have different proportions - longer reach, shorter legs and vice versa. I consider myself pretty average in that sense - suits off the peg often fit me well - and on the 54 frame and a 80-85mm stem fits my reach.
And my saddle height allows enough seat post showing to offer some flex but not look stupidly long.
Attached is snapshot from my latest video in the build series (The Review) I did on YouTube (@zwifting) showing the two bikes side by side and me standing next to them so you can see the size of the 54 frame.
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Any suggestions?
If you already have a bike you are happy with you can use an online comparison tool to overlap the 2 frames and get an idea of how they match up.
I have a Canyon Grail which the fit is almost perfect for me (or at least I can do 100’s of KM’s in one spin without any pain where I shouldn’t have it) and so I overlapped 3 frame sizes of the GR201 onto that to find the closest match.
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So with my build complete (at least stage one) and a few hundred KM’s ridden here’s my review video.
Keep in mind I’m new to cycling and have no experience building a bike and my experience of how a bike should feel or ride, corner, climb or descend is very limited. But these are my thoughts and feelings about the final product.
https://youtu.be/1NYOqqZ7gvY?si=9fmVqW97UwBik5cH
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I'll do a youtube video of the build.
I've gone for a ZTTO T47 BB. No idea if it'll be any good or not.
Alugear chainring and Magene P505 (hopefully it fits). Ltwoo e-gr groupset with an out of spec 11-50 ZTTO cassette (currently installed on a Ribble CGR).
I'm late to the party on these GV201's & only recently found this forum, but your build has influenced me a little in pushing the button & ordering one of these framesets.
A couple of questions if you don't mind?
Did you ever do a youtube of the build?
How has the ZTTO BB served you. Did you go std or ceramic?
I see you had a VoiceVelo seatpost in some of your more recent pics - How has that been for you?
Many thanks
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Sorry I never did a YouTube video, but I have shared more recent pics here and on weightweeenies.
The ztto BB has been great but note I swapped the bearings out almost immediately for enduro steel bearings with the contact seals on the outside and non-contact seals on the inside. This feels like a really good value option as they have held up really well in some rough conditions.
The VoiceVelo seatpost has been a nice upgrade, it smooths out trail buzz. It's not going to make a difference on really rough stuff, but it's a noticeable comfort upgrade on lighter surfaces.
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Hi guys,
I've been following you for a while, and thanks to you, I've avoided Seraph and Tantan and bought the GV201 frame from Longteng. I have all the other components on order, but yesterday I was thinking about the handlebar and stem. I didn't order their specific handlebar, but I need adapters to use a normal stem on a frame like the GV201, which has integrated cable routing.
Could you tell me what spacers I need?
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You can use any ICR system from Acros, FSA, Deda or Enve as long as it has 52 mm bearings.
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You can use any ICR system from Acros, FSA, Deda or Enve as long as it has 52 mm bearings.
`Hi Uberflow, but i have altredy bought the stem
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This should work: https://dedaelementi.com/s-dcr-headset
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This should work: https://dedaelementi.com/s-dcr-headset
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009287522502.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.18.28b9GVe4GVe4XK&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.460259.0&scm_id=1007.40196.460259.0&scm-url=1007.40196.460259.0&pvid=96a31674-7b2b-4558-8ee6-a4382b9aed91&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.460259.0,pvid:96a31674-7b2b-4558-8ee6-a4382b9aed91,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2214%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2139.56%2119.79%21%21%21323.20%21161.71%21%40210385bb17552695210463910eb897%2112000048620736937%21rec%21IT%21171198200%21XZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005009287522502%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
This is ok too?
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Yes but I doubt the bearings will last long in wet/muddy conditions.
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Hi guys,
I've been following you for a while, and thanks to you, I've avoided Seraph and Tantan and bought the GV201 frame from Longteng. I have all the other components on order, but yesterday I was thinking about the handlebar and stem. I didn't order their specific handlebar, but I need adapters to use a normal stem on a frame like the GV201, which has integrated cable routing.
Could you tell me what spacers I need?
Here’s what I used with pics
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4724.msg86534.html#msg86534
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Hi, yes, that's exactly the one I ended up buying yesterday, this one here.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/it/ritchey-sistema-di-sterzo-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6/137710158/p?tqw=One%20Size
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Hi, yes, that's exactly the one I ended up buying yesterday, this one here.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/it/ritchey-sistema-di-sterzo-upper-logic-e-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-is52-28.6/137710158/p?tqw=One%20Size
I had to order the extra spacers seperatly. They are cheap, so I'd rather have and not need than need and not have.
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TanTan GR201 (size 54) — White “stormtrooper” build
Inspired by the other GR201 builds, I also went with a white gloss paintjob for the stormtrooper look. Cost is ~€3.5k and the bike should land around 8.2 kg with pedals, cages, and sealant (haven’t weighed the complete bike yet — my scale is borrowed).
Rider / fit
178 cm / 70 kg. Size 54 fits me very well with a 100 mm stem and 80 mm handlebar reach; I might try a slightly shorter stem for snappier handling.
Spec highlights (Full build in PDF)
• Frameset: GR201 size 54 — frame 1,272 g; fork 392 g; axles 66 g; headset 128 g.
• Cockpit: Lexon UNOX 400×100 integrated bar/stem — 344 g (needed a few spare spacers to mate nicely with the headset).
• Seatpost: Elita One MT05 — 141 g.
• Crankset Leese C01 160 mm cranks (373 g) + PassQuest 44T (105 g);
• Drivetrain: AXS mix — Apex HRD levers (477 g), Rival HRD calipers (190 g), Red XPLR RD (378 g), Red chain (247 g), XG-1391 cassette (287 g).
• Wheelset: Elitewheels Edge Gravel 2.0 — 1,284 g.
• Tires (tubeless): Conti Race King 2.2 front (606 g), Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1 rear (571 g), Orange Seal.
• Pedals: Favero Assioma Pro MX-2 — 384 g.
• Hardware: Most mounting hardware has been replaced with Ti Bolts, Aluminum Adapters and Aluminum Bolts
Ordering & frame details
• Inquiry: Jul 4 → Order: Jul 7 → Photos + tracking: Jul 28 → Delivery (Germany): Aug 7
• Finish: White gloss (YS701). Fork supplied without side 3-bolt mounts (on request).
• Included: headset + both thru-axles.
• Paid via PayPal F&F. Final price from TanTan incl. shipping/taxes: USD 729.
• Notes on quality out of the box: paint is OK but not boutique; some overspray on flat-mounts; mounts a bit flaky. BB shell was clean.
Quick notes after the build
• Coming from a 2020 Diverge X1 (40 mm clearance with 40 mm Thundero tires), this is a big step up for comfort, grip, and tire volume.
• 160 mm cranks are great — I won’t go back to 170+ mm.
• The new SRAM Red 1×13 (10–46) shifts nicely, but I’ll probably revert to a 10–50 Eagle for better climbing range. (I wish there was a 1x13 10-52 option yet)
• There’s ample room for a larger ring — 48T, possibly even 50T, though 44 is good enough for most gravel descents where I live.
• Paint finish is so-so; bolt mounts a bit flaky. Flat-mount faces were oversprayed and not very flat; still working on rotor alignment and may need more careful sanding.
• The Lexon cockpit feels good; took a bit of tinkering and extra spacer/adapter to get the interface right.
Conclusion
At ~€3.5k this is incredible value: essentially best-in-class drivetrain, ultralight wheels, Favero power meter pedals, and clearance for proper wide tires — all wrapped up in a sub-8.2 kg package. The only real complaints are that the frame itself is on the heavier side compared to the rest of the build, and the integrated storage feels a bit unnecessary to me.
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interesting and informative post, thank you. I've gone for the longteng version, should be shipped soon hopefully, ordered and paid for on 7th Aug.
curious to your 3.5k pricetag though. I've ordered frame/seatpost/axles etc, sram rival/eagle mullet grouppo, saddle, tyres, bars, stem, cranks, bb etc as well, and so far sitting at 1800. really the only thing I've left to order are wheels, cassette and chain. (pedals also, though i have the same as you already), all to fit inside 1.7k.
though if I weigh it I might look at replacing some bits and spending more!
Edit:
Ah ok - I see you've got double sided power meter pedals, whereas I have single. also you went with an SRAM 220 euro cassette, i was budgeting for more like Sunrace or so - must do a comparison in weight and see. I also went with cheaper Senicx cranks
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So am also looking into this awesome looking frame, already have quote from LT.
I am curious about sizing, I also have the VB-R-168 road bike in size XL / 58 cm ish with a 42cm handlebar.
189 cm high and looking more for comfort that aero. Would 58cm also be the natural choice for the GR/GV201 frame?
Right now i have a 42 cm handlebar, but based on recommendations from this thread I think i will use the Lexon Unox handlebar that have 20 degrees flare, would it make sense to go with 40cm instead?
Now I just also need to find the right color/design that might be the most difficult thing :)
Im 189 and weight 86kg. I have 88cm innerseam. I got recomandatet 56cm from Alisa from LongTeng. Was this a bad recomadation?
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Sorry I never did a YouTube video, but I have shared more recent pics here and on weightweeenies.
The ztto BB has been great but note I swapped the bearings out almost immediately for enduro steel bearings with the contact seals on the outside and non-contact seals on the inside. This feels like a really good value option as they have held up really well in some rough conditions.
The VoiceVelo seatpost has been a nice upgrade, it smooths out trail buzz. It's not going to make a difference on really rough stuff, but it's a noticeable comfort upgrade on lighter surfaces.
Thanks for the feedback - My ZTTO BB has arrived this morning. Agree about swapping the bearings out, will do that before I fit it. I've ordered the ElitaOne Seatpost.
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Im 189 and weight 86kg. I have 88cm innerseam. I got recomandatet 56cm from Alisa from LongTeng. Was this a bad recomadation?
I'm exactly the same height, weight & inseam (freaky right?) and I have ordered a 56cm based on my existing bikes, knowledge & research. Completely happy with the choice. Granted it hasn't arrived yet, but I'm confident it is the right size for me.
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Im 189 and weight 86kg. I have 88cm innerseam. I got recomandatet 56cm from Alisa from LongTeng. Was this a bad recomadation?
i'm 188cm and 87cm inseam. i got the size 56 and lexon thinline bars with a 100mm integrated stem, and a seatpost with ~20mm setback. i used about 3cm of headset spacers. The fit is pretty good. i do a lot of climbs and i can sit up quite straight with my hands on the tops. If you prefer a really loooong reach then you might need to size up or get a longer stem.
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Im 189 and weight 86kg. I have 88cm innerseam. I got recomandatet 56cm from Alisa from LongTeng. Was this a bad recomadation?
Hi guys, Alisa recommended a 58 for me, and I'm 189-190 cm tall.
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It's been a while, but I'm finally back with my finished build. After posting my story with the problem I encountered with my front wheel from elitewheels, they shipped me a new one while I was on vacation in Austria. A bit of a bummer I wasn't able to take the gravel bike with me, but the roadbike did just fine. After coming back yesterday, I completed my build. Also going tubeless for the first time, still unsure about tire pressures, as I'm running 2.2" in the front and 2.0" in the rear. Silca tyre pressure calculator suggested 1.4 bar in the front and 1.6 bar in the rear, don't know if I should go lower, but anyway - here's my full build:
frame: ordered from Tideace, size 54, color 58, with all mounts (I'm 178cm tall with an 88cm inseam)
handlebar: Lexon thin line (because I don't like the extreme flare the unox have), 400x80
groupset: Wheeltop EDS GX, carbon version
crankset: Riro carbon with 46t
BB: Ztto
wheels: Elitewheels Edge Gravel HOOKED 45, tubeless with Silca sealant and Ridenow valves
cassette: Ztto 11-50 11 speed
chain: Shimano 11 speed, waxed
saddle: Ryet 3D printed honeycomb
bottle cages: from a brand called HUALONG (but I'm sure these are sold under any other brand)
tyres: Continental Raceking 2.2" front, 2.0" rear
disc rotors: VXM in 160
I've spent some time calculating and checking my size, before cutting down the steerer. I'm really glad with my fit, did my first 50k testride, everything seemed good. The gearing seems good for my purposes, I can handle most inclines so far and I don't think I'm missing on speed when I'm descending. I've replaced every bolt I'm currently not using with nylon bolts I've found on aliexpress. I was first hesitant which groupset I should use - either Ltwoo gravel or Wheeltop - but someone, I think either gloscherrybomb or Uberflo - recommended the Wheeltop one because of the bigger cassette. I'm glad for choosing the Wheeltop one, because I really like the ergonomics of the shifters. I also tried flaring in the shifters for the first time, to see how much the difference is. That will be decided within the next few weeks, when I'm able to get some more km's in.
In conclusion: I really enjoyed my ride today, the bike feels like a weapon. Even on flats you are able to hold some speed, even though I have these chunky tyres mounted. I loved climbing and my gear range seems enough so far. I love how much of a difference this is in comparison to my roadbike. I'm really looking forward to tommorow's ride and the next few in the upcoming weeks. Thanks for everyone who contributes on this topic!
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So today was the Maiden Sportive ride for my build. 125km with 1500m of climbing. Handled it all without any issue - and the most comfortable bike ride I’ve ever had.
After the initial “test” build I decided to invest in some upgrades which were 100% worth it imo.
The final components inc:
Wheeltop EDS Tx
GRX Cranks 48/31
4iii Single sided PM on crank arm.
SRAM Cassette and Chain 11/36 (fits HG Hub)
Redshift Suspension Saddle Post
Redshift Suspension Stem
Redshift Kitchen Sink + Grips
32mm Tyre on Front
40mm Tyre on Rear
Shifting was flawless - it handled the front from 31 to 48 with ease - easily as good as the Di2 system I borrowed the cranks from
And the rear cassette didn’t even need fine tuning after selecting 11s in the app.
The brakes are similarly fantastic. No issue.
Excellent gear range for my needs. Didn’t really feel I was spinning out on the flats, and I was holding the front group until first food stop, so not a Sunday spin. And obviously I had plenty for the climbs - the 36 is maybe unnecessary, but nice to have a bail out.
The smoothness and comfort of the ride was insane. Redshift is really good, really. Those grips also make such a difference.
So happy and proud of my build. I genuinely didn’t miss my Canyon Grail at any stage today - this build is on a par, and I dare even more comfortable.
Thanks to all that helped here with your submissions and updates and to those that helped me out directly by answering my questions. It really made a difference.
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TanTan GR201 (size 54) — White “stormtrooper” build
Inspired by the other GR201 builds, I also went with a white gloss paintjob for the stormtrooper look. Cost is ~€3.5k and the bike should land around 8.2 kg with pedals, cages, and sealant (haven’t weighed the complete bike yet — my scale is borrowed).
Rider / fit
178 cm / 70 kg. Size 54 fits me very well with a 100 mm stem and 80 mm handlebar reach; I might try a slightly shorter stem for snappier handling.
Spec highlights (Full build in PDF)
• Frameset: GR201 size 54 — frame 1,272 g; fork 392 g; axles 66 g; headset 128 g.
• Cockpit: Lexon UNOX 400×100 integrated bar/stem — 344 g (needed a few spare spacers to mate nicely with the headset).
• Seatpost: Elita One MT05 — 141 g.
• Crankset Leese C01 160 mm cranks (373 g) + PassQuest 44T (105 g);
• Drivetrain: AXS mix — Apex HRD levers (477 g), Rival HRD calipers (190 g), Red XPLR RD (378 g), Red chain (247 g), XG-1391 cassette (287 g).
• Wheelset: Elitewheels Edge Gravel 2.0 — 1,284 g.
• Tires (tubeless): Conti Race King 2.2 front (606 g), Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1 rear (571 g), Orange Seal.
• Pedals: Favero Assioma Pro MX-2 — 384 g.
• Hardware: Most mounting hardware has been replaced with Ti Bolts, Aluminum Adapters and Aluminum Bolts
Ordering & frame details
• Inquiry: Jul 4 → Order: Jul 7 → Photos + tracking: Jul 28 → Delivery (Germany): Aug 7
• Finish: White gloss (YS701). Fork supplied without side 3-bolt mounts (on request).
• Included: headset + both thru-axles.
• Paid via PayPal F&F. Final price from TanTan incl. shipping/taxes: USD 729.
• Notes on quality out of the box: paint is OK but not boutique; some overspray on flat-mounts; mounts a bit flaky. BB shell was clean.
Quick notes after the build
• Coming from a 2020 Diverge X1 (40 mm clearance with 40 mm Thundero tires), this is a big step up for comfort, grip, and tire volume.
• 160 mm cranks are great — I won’t go back to 170+ mm.
• The new SRAM Red 1×13 (10–46) shifts nicely, but I’ll probably revert to a 10–50 Eagle for better climbing range. (I wish there was a 1x13 10-52 option yet)
• There’s ample room for a larger ring — 48T, possibly even 50T, though 44 is good enough for most gravel descents where I live.
• Paint finish is so-so; bolt mounts a bit flaky. Flat-mount faces were oversprayed and not very flat; still working on rotor alignment and may need more careful sanding.
• The Lexon cockpit feels good; took a bit of tinkering and extra spacer/adapter to get the interface right.
Conclusion
At ~€3.5k this is incredible value: essentially best-in-class drivetrain, ultralight wheels, Favero power meter pedals, and clearance for proper wide tires — all wrapped up in a sub-8.2 kg package. The only real complaints are that the frame itself is on the heavier side compared to the rest of the build, and the integrated storage feels a bit unnecessary to me.
What headset did you use for Lexon handlebar?
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Just paid for my GV201 after settling on the frame colours. I went with a 56cm size and am 188cm tall, its very similar geometry to my existing gravel bike thats being retired.
A few questions I am hoping someone can assist with please....
The headset that comes with the bike, is it worth using or should I purchase a better one? I'm hoping for internal cable routing but will be using separate handlebar and stem, just routing into the frame via the headset.
Also, I'll be installing a 24mm LTwoo crank set, same size as Shimano, can anyone recommend a bottom bracket that might fit please? Prefer steel bearings and happy to purchase from Alix or Bikeinn.
Thanks, I'll post some pics once it gets here
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I've gone with this BB for when my frame arrives - I've used in in other bikes and its good! ZTTO T47-24I
What colour have you gone for?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003124765596.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2f92Pg7HPg7HdF&algo_pvid=e80228a1-cba5-4916-9559-bcb248d40764&algo_exp_id=e80228a1-cba5-4916-9559-bcb248d40764-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22384%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21GBP%2115.59%2115.59%21%21%2120.44%2120.44%21%40211b813f17563616131155891e13ea%2112000024230932720%21sea%21UK%216041099402%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A5b33ac6d%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=nau3j9QpmUSG&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005003124765596%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
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Looks like you've changed pretty much everything 😂
I imagine it was very smooth on your event.
Great videos on Youtube with the build - good to see up close a proper unboxing & building to add a bit of confidence when ordering unseen. I'm waiting for my frame now. Slowly assembling the parts in the meantime.
So today was the Maiden Sportive ride for my build. 125km with 1500m of climbing. Handled it all without any issue - and the most comfortable bike ride I’ve ever had.
After the initial “test” build I decided to invest in some upgrades which were 100% worth it imo.
The final components inc:
Wheeltop EDS Tx
GRX Cranks 48/31
4iii Single sided PM on crank arm.
SRAM Cassette and Chain 11/36 (fits HG Hub)
Redshift Suspension Saddle Post
Redshift Suspension Stem
Redshift Kitchen Sink + Grips
32mm Tyre on Front
40mm Tyre on Rear
Shifting was flawless - it handled the front from 31 to 48 with ease - easily as good as the Di2 system I borrowed the cranks from
And the rear cassette didn’t even need fine tuning after selecting 11s in the app.
The brakes are similarly fantastic. No issue.
Excellent gear range for my needs. Didn’t really feel I was spinning out on the flats, and I was holding the front group until first food stop, so not a Sunday spin. And obviously I had plenty for the climbs - the 36 is maybe unnecessary, but nice to have a bail out.
The smoothness and comfort of the ride was insane. Redshift is really good, really. Those grips also make such a difference.
So happy and proud of my build. I genuinely didn’t miss my Canyon Grail at any stage today - this build is on a par, and I dare even more comfortable.
Thanks to all that helped here with your submissions and updates and to those that helped me out directly by answering my questions. It really made a difference.
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I've gone with this BB for when my frame arrives - I've used in in other bikes and its good! ZTTO T47-24I
What colour have you gone for?
Thanks, just ordered that BB but saw some others are swapping the bearings out, anyone got specs on what to please?
If swapping means longer lasting or better seals that would be great, prefer steel bearings.
Colour wise I went with hopefully close to the Ford GT blue and orange scheme.
The rest of my build is mostly Ali Express parts, 1x12 LTwoo mechanical groupset, some old Prime carbon wheels, looking forward to building it up!
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The ztto BB has been great but note I swapped the bearings out almost immediately for enduro steel bearings with the contact seals on the outside and non-contact seals on the inside. This feels like a really good value option as they have held up really well in some rough conditions.
Do you mind sharing any info on the bearings you swapped to please? The size or model would be great if possible. Thanks!
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Do you mind sharing any info on the bearings you swapped to please? The size or model would be great if possible. Thanks!
If UK these will be a quality replacement - https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/mr2437-llb-c3-abec3-enduro-bb90-95-bb86-92/
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Do you mind sharing any info on the bearings you swapped to please? The size or model would be great if possible. Thanks!
MR2437 LLU/LLB Enduro ABEC 5.
Note the 'LLU/LLB', these are the ones that have fast seals on the inside and contact seals on the outside.
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Hey guys, sorry to bother you, but I need some advice. My frame is arriving soon, and I already have all the components at home. The only thing I'm unsure about is that I got the Ritchey Logic-E to run the cables inside the frame, using a normal stem and handlebar. The problem now is that the Ritchey comes with a grommet for two cables, but I have four cables (two for the brakes and two for the shifters). How can I get them all through there? Should I remove the grommet? Did I make a mistake getting the Ritchey? I was trying to 3D model and print it, but there are too many angles and I can't copy them all.
Do you have any ideas?
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/wcs-logic-e-1-5-integrated-is-upper-headset
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As I can see on the picture you can remove the part with just one hole on each side to get four cables through.
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As I can see on the picture you can remove the part with just one hole on each side to get four cables through.
So I just take off the grommet and go? But then won't dirt get in?
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I don’t think that there will get much dirt into the frame under the stem. You could use some tape to close the hole.
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So I just take off the grommet and go? But then won't dirt get in?
Drill 2 more holes in the grommet for the other cables. Or use some black Sugru?
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After an entire day of struggling with it, here's the TPU part I printed.
(https://i.ibb.co/DTCvvsT/IMG20250830173145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DTCvvsT) (https://i.ibb.co/pBYJ7t79/IMG20250830173157.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pBYJ7t79) (https://i.ibb.co/pB84W9Hr/IMG20250830173203.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pB84W9Hr)
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I'm bored, waiting for my frame to arrive, so I've listed out all the parts that are going to make 'the build' - Everything except frame/fork/bars and the rims is currently have sat in a box waiting to be fitted when the rest gets here.
Any comments, questions or suggestions, lets hear them.
Tideace GV201 custom build
- Frame / Fork Tideace GV201 56cm - Custom Ice Crack Paint (green I-004 to white I-001 fade) & Custom Decals - Fork Mount delete
Handlebar Integrated 420 / 100 Ice Crack green I-004
Rims Serenade 50/45mm wave rear, 40/35mm wave front - 25mm inner 34mm outer. Marble gloss finish NO DECALS
Spokes / Hubs CX Ray spokes. Custom laser etched decal Bitex HG C/L hubs
Tyres Pirelli Cinturato All Road 700 x 45mm
Tubes Ridenow TPU
Rotors 160mm IIIPro Ultra Light C/L
Seat Clamp Ryet Ultralight Bike Bicycle Seat Post Clamp CNC
Saddle RYET 3D Printed Bike Carbon Saddle 140mm 142mm Super Light Road
Seat Post elitaone Carbon Seat post Setback 25mm 27.2mm
Pedals BUCKLOS PD-M760 Mountain Bike Lock Pedals
Groupset Shimano 105 Di2 12sp R7100
Chainset RIRO Carbon Fiber Crank Road Bike 11/12 Speed 50-34
Cassette ZTTO Ultimate 12 Speed Road Bike Cassette Ultralight 11-36t
BB ZTTO T47/86 thread together - Upgrade to Enduro SS Bearings
Handlebar Tape Road Bike Bar Tape Super Sticky Kush Star Fade Bar Tape (Supacaz) Black / Silver stars
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to relieve the boredom for about 3 minutes, weigh everything and list it!
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Hi all,
Been lurking, this is my first post.
Ordered a TanTan GR201 about 6 weeks ago, been waiting for them to finish the paint work. I'm told the paint shop has been very busy but I expect them to send me the completed pictures soon so I can share.
Just a question on cranks. I was thinking of getting the P505 or P515 with a 46T chainring. Can someone with that setup please let me know what the chainline is and also if I need to fit any spacers to make that work.
The rest of the bike will have
Elite Gravel SLR 38mm Wheels
GRX Mechanical 12S with 10-51 Cassette
Thanks
:)
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to relieve the boredom for about 3 minutes, weigh everything and list it!
You are correct - it was poor effort on my part & I can only apologize.
- Tideace GV201 custom build
Frame / Fork Tideace GV201 56cm - Custom Ice Crack Paint (green I-004 to white I-001 fade) & Custom Decals - Fork Mount delete Estimated 1,770
Handlebar Integrated 420 / 100 Ice Crack green I-004 Estimated 350
Rims Serenade 50/45mm wave rear, 40/35mm wave front - 25mm inner 34mm outer. Marble gloss finish NO DECALS Estimated 900
Spokes / Hubs CX Ray spokes. Custom laser etched decal Bitex HG C/L hubs Estimated 570
Tyres Pirelli Cinturato All Road 700 x 45mm 1,160
Tubes Ridenow TPU 84
Rotors 160mm IIIPro Ultra Light C/L 256
Seat Clamp Ryet Ultralight Bike Bicycle Seat Post Clamp CNC 12
Saddle RYET 3D Printed Bike Carbon Saddle 140mm 142mm Super Light Road
Seat Post elitaone Carbon Seat post Setback 25mm 27.2mm 314
Pedals BUCKLOS PD-M760 Mountain Bike Lock Pedals 354
Groupset Shimano 105 Di2 12sp R7100
STI + calipers 690
RD 304
FD 150
Battery / cables 70
Chain 275
Chainset RIRO Carbon Fiber Crank Road Bike 11/12 Speed 50-34 595
Cassette ZTTO Ultimate 12 Speed Road Bike Cassette Ultralight 11-36t 218
BB ZTTO T47/86 thread together - Upgrade to Enduro SS Bearings 110
Handlebar Tape Road Bike Bar Tape Super Sticky Kush Star Fade Bar Tape (Supacaz) Black / Silver stars 90
8,272
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when I'm equally bored I'll take my parts out and weigh/list them too. longteng frame in the post also, as are xc carbonspeed wheels.
This is mine, attached. some stuff still in the mail so claimed or guessed weights in italics
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Just a question on cranks. I was thinking of getting the P505 or P515 with a 46T chainring. Can someone with that setup please let me know what the chainline is and also if I need to fit any spacers to make that work.
Hi! To make the chainline approximately match the Sram Wide (47.5mm), I used a chainring with a 3mm offset on the P505 spider.
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when I'm equally bored I'll take my parts out and weigh/list them too. longteng frame in the post also, as are xc carbonspeed wheels.
This is mine, attached. some stuff still in the mail so claimed or guessed weights in italics
Sweet - I acknowledge I have missed off things like thru axles, headset, expander etc so they will add a little BUT I will be cutting the fork, chain, hoses etc so all in I'm hoping for 8.5kg???
No bottle cages either - its already too heavy so I'm not gonna drink ;)
I guess the race is on for when they arrive? Mine was ordered 11/8
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Ordered aug 6th for me. Posted on aug 29th. have tracking number but no "movement" on it really yet. was half hoping to have it by the weekend but I doubt it.
Wheels posted on 1st sept, but have some which would do if i got the frame up and running before they arrive
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Ordered aug 6th for me. Posted on aug 29th. have tracking number but no "movement" on it really yet. was half hoping to have it by the weekend but I doubt it.
Wheels posted on 1st sept, but have some which would do if i got the frame up and running before they arrive
Mine isn't even close to painting yet so I guess I shall just weigh the components again & see if I can find some lighter tyres.
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my chain arrived this morning, so i can "start" my build by stripping all the gunky shitty factory grease off it and waxing it. That way I can claim I'm "making progress"
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Hi! To make the chainline approximately match the Sram Wide (47.5mm), I used a chainring with a 3mm offset on the P505 spider.
Thanks for this info, do you have a link to the chainring you used?
Also I see some people say the P505 is not compatible with the T47 BB, did you run into any problems or know why they claim this?
Thanks
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Okay, so I just received a picture of my bike completed paint job, ready to be packed for shipping.
I was concerned about the size but they have just sent me a picture of the measurements and its all good :)
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This might help a bit - mine is a 54. overlaid yours as best I can using the BB as the anchor point. Given the bb is 47mm, it does look like there's closer to a full BB (~5cm) than a half BB (~2cm) difference between the two top tubes, so you could well be right.
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Okay, so I just received a picture of my bike completed paint job, ready to be packed for shipping.
I was concerned about the size but they have just sent me a picture of the measurements and its all good :)
That looks sick - Very nice. What size is that, 52?
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They sent me this. I guess this frame just has a very short head tube which had me a worried but 105 is what the geometry file says for size 52 so looks like its all right.
^^^ Corrected typo. now correctly reads 105
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That looks sick - Very nice. What size is that, 52?
Yes size 52, just a little bigger than my road bike. super excited for it to arrive so I can start the build :)
Insta video here
https://www.instagram.com/p/DOGXW8LjYU5/?hl=en
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They sent me this. I guess this frame just has a very short head tube which had me a worried but 115 is what the geometry file says for size 52 so looks like its all right.
105, not 115?
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105, not 115?
Oops, yes sorry typo, Geometry says 105mm for the size 52 and 90mm for the size 49.
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Yes size 52, just a little bigger than my road bike. super excited for it to arrive so I can start the build :)
Insta video here
https://www.instagram.com/p/DOGXW8LjYU5/?hl=en
Looks great in that size - And lighter. Win / win
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Also I see some people say the P505 is not compatible with the T47 BB, did you run into any problems or know why they claim this?
I have a magene P505 in a T47 BB in my Elves Falath EVO+ with a couple thousand km so far, seems to work alright for me.
The only Issue I had was the bolts coming loose so have added some loctite, its a common issue from a quick google search.
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Hello, I recently received my Tidace Noah frame. I am trying to install the new sram XPLR 13 speed (same process and all sram transmission groupers I believe). When I tighten the big bolt on the derailleur to attach it to the frame it’s still loose and wobbles when fully tight (I can’t turn it any further). Is there a spacer that’s required for this frame or am I doing something wrong? Any help would be great.
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Just watch the SRAM XPLR 13-speed installation video in YouTube. If you follow all steps there should be no issue. I had no problems with the installation.
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Recommendations for better upper and lower headset bearings?
Mine seem to be pretty worn after a season of gravelling.
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I just bought the most expensive 52x40x7 stainless steel bearings on Kugellager Shop. You will do nothing wrong with it.
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Progress pic of my frame
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Hey guys, just a quick question. My frame from Longteng was supposed to be shipped on September 2nd. The first tracking code shows it's stuck, but with the Take Send tracking code, here's what I see:
2025-09-08 14:41:44 - DPD-DE, Flight has been delayed.
2025-09-06 14:27:59 - DPD-DE, Awaiting a connecting flight.
2025-09-04 06:12:00 - DPD-DE, Flight has departed.
2025-09-03 10:29:37 - DPD-DE, The flight is scheduled to depart at 2025-09-04 04:15:00
2025-09-03 10:29:30 - DPD-DE, Export declaration in progress.
2025-09-02 18:00:00 - DPD-DE, Shipment departed from warehouse.
2025-09-01 12:00:55 - DPD-DE, The order has been confirmed.
2025-09-01 09:14:19 - Take Send Logistics, Leaving the distribution center
2025-08-31 20:42:00 - Take Send Logistics, Enter the distribution center
2025-08-29 17:54:59 - DPD-DE, Item information received.
2025-08-29 17:54:59 - DPD-DE, Your shipment has been received and stored in our warehouse.
2025-08-29 17:52:49 - The Item is at the shippers warehouse
When could it arrive in Italy?
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Hey guys, just a quick question. My frame from Longteng was supposed to be shipped on September 2nd. The first tracking code shows it's stuck, but with the Take Send tracking code, here's what I see:
2025-09-08 14:41:44 - DPD-DE, Flight has been delayed.
2025-09-06 14:27:59 - DPD-DE, Awaiting a connecting flight.
2025-09-04 06:12:00 - DPD-DE, Flight has departed.
2025-09-03 10:29:37 - DPD-DE, The flight is scheduled to depart at 2025-09-04 04:15:00
2025-09-03 10:29:30 - DPD-DE, Export declaration in progress.
2025-09-02 18:00:00 - DPD-DE, Shipment departed from warehouse.
2025-09-01 12:00:55 - DPD-DE, The order has been confirmed.
2025-09-01 09:14:19 - Take Send Logistics, Leaving the distribution center
2025-08-31 20:42:00 - Take Send Logistics, Enter the distribution center
2025-08-29 17:54:59 - DPD-DE, Item information received.
2025-08-29 17:54:59 - DPD-DE, Your shipment has been received and stored in our warehouse.
2025-08-29 17:52:49 - The Item is at the shippers warehouse
When could it arrive in Italy?
Be patient; ordering from china is a waiting game. It will arrive
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ha I think i got a picture of your bike and my bike packed side by side for shipping! your phone number end in 4049?
mine has left Germany very very early this morning , coming to ireland. am hoping I get it by friday
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When could it arrive in Italy?
I normally use https://parcelsapp.com/ (https://parcelsapp.com/) to track my stuff from China, depending how it goes though it may get held up in customs or other issues.
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Hi,
I've read the first view pages of this thread and the last 5 or so, but still there are some questions open for me.
1.) What size would you recommend for 184/86cm? My opinion is L
2.) It seems, that there are some different possibilities to order, what is the recommended one (or are the frames sold under different chinese brand names), I am a bit confused here (Tideace, TanTan, LongTeng, Seraph)
3.) Are there standard colours or how did you order a specific colour?
Thanks for clarification
Wolfgang
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yes - several options - longteng/tideace/tantan ....
sizing - tbd.
colors - longteng at least use pantone colors. I mocked up what i wanted using a bare frame and gimp and sent it over, few back and forths and was ready to go
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As Ken says, although my experience was with Tideace
Re size, I am 188 and have ordered 56cm L - I would say at 185 you would probably be the same.
Suppliers seem to be Longteng, TanTan (using Seraph brand name) and Tideace - Like I say, I ordered from Tideace.
Regarding colour schemes Tideace & Seraph have a good instagram presence for inspiration - Tideace on Youtube too. Again, for me there was some back & forth & then we were ready to go
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I'm 188cm tall and I think my inseam is 88cm, I went with the L(56) also.
The same frame appears to be resold by a few companies, I'm not sure who actually manufactures it but that doesnt bother me too much, so long as its decent quality and price is right.
Tideace have standard colors to choose from on their website, they have some nice designs on their youtube channel and I chose the colors of my frame based on a classic race car
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I own two Tideace frames and the paint jobs are very good. If you look at the comments on the Tantan (Seraph) paintjobs they fucked it up several times.
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ha I think i got a picture of your bike and my bike packed side by side for shipping! your phone number end in 4049?
mine has left Germany very very early this morning , coming to ireland. am hoping I get it by friday
Hi, yes that's the number. Then we received the same photo 🤣. Are you in Ireland?
My traking number the one that starts with TS tells me the flight has arrived, but I don't know where
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yes, Ireland. thats funny, our bikes are siblings :D
I got a DHL number from Alisa; there is a number on the box also which seems to list every airport it's been through so far, hong kong, amsterdam... but doesn't mention anything about Germany which is where the DHL packet says it was on tuesday.
Hope you get it soon. What are you planning on building it up with?
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To me they send with dpd, unfortunately.
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yes, Ireland. thats funny, our bikes are siblings :D
I got a DHL number from Alisa; there is a number on the box also which seems to list every airport it's been through so far, hong kong, amsterdam... but doesn't mention anything about Germany which is where the DHL packet says it was on tuesday.
Hope you get it soon. What are you planning on building it up with?
ooooh looks like irish postal service have got it, hoping it'll be delivered tomorrow! so excited!
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Tanatan shipped last Friday and told me it would take 5-7 days for the tracking number to start showing.
As of just now I can see its scan as showing its been picked up. Its certainly a patience game :)
Looks like you guys will get yours soon.
Seems I still have about 2 weeks to go. Order placed on 11 July so looks like about 2-1/2 months from date of order from Tantan currently.
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Anyone here who has an "ice cracked paint" finish (https://tideacebike.com/pages/customization-color-choice)?
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Tanatan shipped last Friday and told me it would take 5-7 days for the tracking number to start showing.
As of just now I can see its scan as showing its been picked up. Its certainly a patience game :)
Looks like you guys will get yours soon.
Seems I still have about 2 weeks to go. Order placed on 11 July so looks like about 2-1/2 months from date of order from Tantan currently.
wow. glad i didn't go with tantan so - was in discussions with them also. my order was placed on 8th august!
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wow. glad i didn't go with tantan so - was in discussions with them also. my order was placed on 8th august!
Sounds like your frame is 'imminent' - Look forward to seeing it! - My order was 11th August with Tideace. When I chased up yesterday was told it was "in the process of being glossed now" so will hopefully ship next week?
Anyone here who has an "ice cracked paint" finish (https://tideacebike.com/pages/customization-color-choice)?
Yes - I have gone for an icecrack effect AND a fade green to white - The icecrack paint effect adds some time to the painting process which is understandable - So its about 1 month from order to being painted with the effect (in my case anyway)
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Sounds like your frame is 'imminent' - Look forward to seeing it! - My order was 11th August with Tideace. When I chased up yesterday was told it was "in the process of being glossed now" so will hopefully ship next week?
Yes - I have gone for an icecrack effect AND a fade green to white - The icecrack paint effect adds some time to the painting process which is understandable - So its about 1 month from order to being painted with the effect (in my case anyway)
Yes - I have F5 key worn out from refreshing the postage update page. Not hopeful it will get delivered today - current status from last night 10pm is "being sorted for delivery". Usually that shows as "out for delivery" the morning it will be delivered. Wonder if it's such a big box it needs to have more planning in terms of getting it loaded. Would be brilliant to have it here to build over the weekend rather than having to do it after work on mon/tues/wed
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Yes - I have gone for an icecrack effect AND a fade green to white - The icecrack paint effect adds some time to the painting process which is understandable - So its about 1 month from order to being painted with the effect (in my case anyway)
Time is not a problem, do you have your frame already and can tell something about the painting? Does it look good?
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Time is not a problem, do you have your frame already and can tell something about the painting? Does it look good?
Not yet - apparently it is being glossed at the moment. I am expecting pictures soon and hope it will ship next week?
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I've just completed the build of my Tideace Noah. I opted for a custom paint job and it took 26 days from ordering to delivery in the UK, which is pretty rapid. I'm still waiting on Lexon integrated gravel bars from AliX, so I've used a standard stem and bars for now, which look fine with the cables routed through the supplied headset cover. Complete weight with cages, computer/radar mounts, PM pedals and sealant is 8.6kg. The 54 frame with hanger and mounting bolts was 1350g and the fork was 430g.
I'm really impressed with the quality of the frame, parts, paint and finishing. Everything went together smoothly and the build was trouble free.
I've gone for a 2x build to use parts I already had and because range and spacing is still superior to 13-speed XPLR. I was worried about FD and frame clearance, so I bought a Wide AXS crank and FD, which provides 5mm clearance from FD battery with 50 mm WAM tyres. but it looks like I would have gotten away with a standard crank and FD with about 2.5 mm of clearance from the tyre. Frame clearance with standard 46/33 chainset was fine too, so the wide crank is only beneficial for tyres measuring 48 mm or more.
I may splash out on new E1 levers as I'm used to them on other bikes, but for now, I'm running with old Force D1 shifters and calipers, Rival D1 derailleurs, and a Force D2 43/30 wide chainset.
Wheels are the super-wide Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel (40e/32i/45d) shod with 48mm Tufu Thundero HD tyres.
Stem (90mm) and bars (36mm) are Prime carbon.
Saddle is cheap Elita one.
BB is ZTTO T47i.
Rotors are Zrace 160 CL.
Cassette is Goldix Ultralight 10-36 XDR.
Cages are AliX titanium.
Pedals are Garmin Vector 3.
Seat post and headset are stock.
I've only had a brief scoot around my street, so can't give ride impressions yet, but the bike doesn't feel as long as I thought it might and the 54 with 90 mm stem fits me well (178 cm tall 85 cm inseam).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54779844667_b98b51937a_b.jpg)
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Finally my order arrived in Germany, I think it will arrive in Italy by next week. 🤞
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I can almost smell mine, its in the sorting office but usually dont get post on Saturday so expect it on Monday
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Hi everyone.
I am in the process of purchasing a GR201 frame.
Could anyone advise me on what size to choose?
I am 184 cm tall.
My inside leg measurement is 90 cm.
The saddle height from the bottom bracket is 80 cm.
54 with a 110 mm stem or 56 with a 90 mm stem?
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Definitely not 54
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Hi everyone.
I am in the process of purchasing a GR201 frame.
Could anyone advise me on what size to choose?
I am 184 cm tall.
My inside leg measurement is 90 cm.
The saddle height from the bottom bracket is 84 cm.
54 with a 110 mm stem or 56 with a 90 mm stem?
Can’t believe that you need 84cm saddle height with 90cm inseam.
My inseam is about the same. I am 189cm. I ride a 58. You seem to be long legged. So I would guess 56 is your size but then (if it’s really 84cm) you have quite a saddle elevation.
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I've just completed the build of my Tideace Noah. I opted for a custom paint job and it took 26 days from ordering to delivery in the UK, which is pretty rapid. I'm still waiting on Lexon integrated gravel bars from AliX, so I've used a standard stem and bars for now, which look fine with the cables routed through the supplied headset cover. Complete weight with cages, computer/radar mounts, PM pedals and sealant is 8.6kg. The 54 frame with hanger and mounting bolts was 1350g and the fork was 430g.
I'm really impressed with the quality of the frame, parts, paint and finishing. Everything went together smoothly and the build was trouble free.
I've gone for a 2x build to use parts I already had and because range and spacing is still superior to 13-speed XPLR. I was worried about FD and frame clearance, so I bought a Wide AXS crank and FD, which provides 5mm clearance from FD battery with 50 mm WAM tyres. but it looks like I would have gotten away with a standard crank and FD with about 2.5 mm of clearance from the tyre. Frame clearance with standard 46/33 chainset was fine too, so the wide crank is only beneficial for tyres measuring 48 mm or more.
I may splash out on new E1 levers as I'm used to them on other bikes, but for now, I'm running with old Force D1 shifters and calipers, Rival D1 derailleurs, and a Force D2 43/30 wide chainset.
Wheels are the super-wide Elitewheels Aero+ Gravel (40e/32i/45d) shod with 48mm Tufu Thundero HD tyres.
Stem (90mm) and bars (36mm) are Prime carbon.
Saddle is cheap Elita one.
BB is ZTTO T47i.
Rotors are Zrace 160 CL.
Cassette is Goldix Ultralight 10-36 XDR.
Cages are AliX titanium.
Pedals are Garmin Vector 3.
Seat post and headset are stock.
I've only had a brief scoot around my street, so can't give ride impressions yet, but the bike doesn't feel as long as I thought it might and the 54 with 90 mm stem fits me well (178 cm tall 85 cm inseam).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54779844667_b98b51937a_b.jpg)
Love the color scheme. ;-)
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Love the color scheme. ;-)
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness. 👌
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Things are starting to get real for me now too - @Eddy-haideli has informed me my frame is being shipped today & has sent me these photos 😍
Can't wait to get building 👨🔧
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Can’t believe that you need 84cm saddle height with 90cm inseam.
My inseam is about the same. I am 189cm. I ride a 58. You seem to be long legged. So I would guess 56 is your size but then (if it’s really 84cm) you have quite a saddle elevation.
You're right. I was mistaken. Thank you for pointing that out :)
The saddle height is 80 cm.
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So same saddle height although you are 4-5cm shorter than me. To me the 58 feels perfect. For you the 56 might be better because you have a shorter upper body (not considering arm length though) but it means that you have a higher saddle elevation which not everybody likes or you have to use more spacers. Anyway, the 54 cannot be the right choice
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So same saddle height although you are 4-5cm shorter than me. To me the 58 feels perfect. For you the 56 might be better because you have a shorter upper body (not considering arm length though) but it means that you have a higher saddle elevation which not everybody likes or you have to use more spacers. Anyway, the 54 cannot be the right choice
Thank you. This is exactly the answer I was expecting.
Factual and concrete.
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Hi everyone,
When I received my groupset the seller shipped me the left GRX lever for a dropper post (I ordered the standard 1x levers) so now im thinking I might as well install a dropper.
1. Are there any recommendations for a dropper from Aliexpress
2. Can someone please confirm what’s the max seatpost insertion depth on the size 52 frame.
3. What are your thoughts on running a dropper?
Hoping to order soon so it arrives same time as my frame
Thanks
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I run a dropper on my current gravel bike and like the ability to drop the saddle out of the way. It comes with a weight penalty though.
That said, I made sure to choose the GV201/GR201 as it has a round seat post and not any sort of aero or D shaped one, so I can install a dropper if I need it. Would consider AXS for simplicity of routing/ability to switch between dropper and fixed. Would also consider one with the lever under the seat and manually drop it, as cheaper.
Can't answer your questions on insertion dept etc though sorry
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I run a dropper on my current gravel bike and like the ability to drop the saddle out of the way. It comes with a weight penalty though.
That said, I made sure to choose the GV201/GR201 as it has a round seat post and not any sort of aero or D shaped one, so I can install a dropper if I need it. Would consider AXS for simplicity of routing/ability to switch between dropper and fixed. Would also consider one with the lever under the seat and manually drop it, as cheaper.
Can't answer your questions on insertion dept etc though sorry
The KS E20-i 100mm dropper looks like it will be perfect for my needs, the 125 will be too long. Unfortunately I can only find the 125 on AliExpress. I can find the 100 from other places around the world but then once I add the shipping it gets very expensive so I will probably just park the idea for now and wait till I can get what I want.
there are other brands in 100mm but they way the cable attaches makes it hard with the GRX shifters.
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my frame is out for delivery ;D ;D ;D 8)
gonna be a slow day at work, waiting for the postie!
It's here! Looks lovely too, so far very happy, seems really clean internally in the layup etc. Will take pics when I get a chance and update this post.
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Looks epic mate, Looking forward to see the final build
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my frame is out for delivery ;D ;D ;D 8)
gonna be a slow day at work, waiting for the postie!
It's here! Looks lovely too, so far very happy, seems really clean internally in the layup etc. Will take pics when I get a chance and update this post.
Aaaa :'( :'( :'(
My frame got lost in Germany.. On Saturday he was in Aschaffenburg. :'(
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Although this frame has mounting points galore, for full fenders, there isn't anything to anchor the top of the rear mudguard between the seatstays. For stability, there is usually a way to fasten the guard to either a permanent or removable bridge between the stays. In an ideal world, the manufacturer would supply us with a bridge that can span the seatstays and be attached to the M5 bolts that are there. Does anyone know of anything that can be used in this case?
See here for example of bridge supplied with Vitus Venon:
(https://off.road.cc/sites/default/files/styles/640px/public/thumbnails/image/2023%20vitus%20venon%20evo%20gr%20SS%20bridge.jpg)
I suppose you could rig something up with one or two cable ties, but it would be nice to have a more refined solution that was available off the shelf or could be 3d printed.
Example of permanent bridge:
(https://www.condorcycles.com/cdn/shop/files/0000029208_1200x.jpg)
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I refuse to pollute my bikes with mudguards. A Pannier for bikepacking is as much as I permit :P
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I refuse to pollute my bikes with mudguards. A Pannier for bikepacking is as much as I permit :P
A bike with full length fitted mudguards - best thing I ever did for winter riding 8)
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I'm getting some annoying vibration on the front while braking with the front brake.
I've also checked it at home and there seems to be some small play between the fork tube and the head tube that I cannot get rid of.
When I overtighten the top cap bolt, I do feel some slight improvement, but I still feel the vibrations, plus getting the preload to 6-7nm doesn't seem like a very smart long term solution for the fork's health.
Could it have something to do with the headset bearings (all stuff from Tantan)? Did anybody have a similar issue?
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Which handlebar are u using?
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Which handlebar are u using?
The stock Tantan cockpit
Which apparently is slightly less shitty than the one supplied by Tideace?
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Good evening guys, I have a big dilemma. I’m 183 cm tall, with a saddle height of 88 cm, and I’m really undecided whether to go for a size 54 or 56. At the moment, I’m riding a Specialized Diverge E5 with a 10 cm stem and an Aethos size 56 with an 11 cm stem. Is there anyone with my same measurements who could help me choose? :-[
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The stock Tantan cockpit
Which apparently is slightly less shitty than the one supplied by Tideace?
I suppose it is the same. So, I assume that you have an alloy C ring? If it is the case, it is certainly out of tolerance leading to your issue.
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It's finally here
(https://i.ibb.co/4nRy65dp/IMG-20250917-WA0009.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4nRy65dp)
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Hello, everyone.
What is the largest single crank you have installed?
I would like to install a 48T. Is that possible?
Are spacers needed?
Can you advise me? :D
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I suppose it is the same. So, I assume that you have an alloy C ring? If it is the case, it is certainly out of tolerance leading to your issue.
Based on previous comments I thought it was different tbh, but yes I did get and use a C Ring made out of metal, which I guess it's of remarkable quality
Any suggestions for a replacement? Quality brands and what's the specific size to get
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For the c ring? As they system is proprietary you have so search on AliX to find maybe something that fits. I recommend plastic as it is flexible. Otherwise replace the handlebar. Lexon is a budget option w/o this issue.
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After seeing these solid steel, no flex compression rings I decided to make my own.
I haven't tested yet as I am waiting for my frame but its printed in MJF PA12 plastic which has verry good durability and strength and good chemical resistance too so will be good with grease and oils and bike cleaners etc.
Have made the top thin so that I can just add spacers on top to get the ideal top cap height.
This is the compression ring on an old piece of handle bar stem from a previous build. fitted inside a bearing with 40mm ID and 52mm OD. (Assuming that's the bearing that the bikes comes with as that's standard for most. If not I will just update my design and print a new one)
Can someone please confirm what size bearing is being sent out with the bike from TanTan.
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Nice. Bearing size is 52x40x7 (top and bottom).
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Nice. Bearing size is 52x40x7 (top and bottom).
Cool, thanks for confirming, looks like I'm sorted then :)
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What are folk who run 1x using to replace the front derailleur hanger? I asked for blanking plate for this, and got 4 rubber bungs, which I've put in for now but would prefer a more permanent solution.
Guess I could look to 3d print something, but was hoping for something more elequent.
Other thing I noticed, most folk seem to receive all the bolts for the mounting holes. Typically steel and heavy so was going to replace them anyway, but I never received any from LongTeng. Normal M5 threads so have ordered some nylon ones to use as blankers in pannier mounts etc and titanium for bottle cages etc
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What are folk who run 1x using to replace the front derailleur hanger? I asked for blanking plate for this, and got 4 rubber bungs, which I've put in for now but would prefer a more permanent solution.
Guess I could look to 3d print something, but was hoping for something more elequent.
Other thing I noticed, most folk seem to receive all the bolts for the mounting holes. Typically steel and heavy so was going to replace them anyway, but I never received any from LongTeng. Normal M5 threads so have ordered some nylon ones to use as blankers in pannier mounts etc and titanium for bottle cages etc
I know that state bicycle does have one for their allroad which is using the same frame: https://www.statebicycle.com/products/carbon-all-road-v2-team-edition
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Hi,
I bought the gr201 frameset and handlebars last month, in the mean time that i'm waiting I was looking at this thread.
I saw that a lot of people use a Lexon cockpit instead of the supplied cockpit. Is the supplied cockpit not good or does it have problems or something?
I'm really debating now if I too should buy an other cockpit, and if so, wich one haha.
Love to hear feedback!
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Cool, thanks for confirming, looks like I'm sorted then :)
The compression rings are usually matched to the bearing's internal chamfer angle. As I understand it, these bikes are supplied with 45 degree outer and 45 degree inner chamfers, which matches the Deda DCR system, therefore a Deda DCR compression ring should work with the supplied bearings. On the otherhand, the FSA ACR system uses 45/35 bearings so the top bearing would need to be swapped for a 52 x 40 x 7 - 45/35 to use an ACR c-ring. The other thing to note is that these c-rings often have notches to engage with the matching bearing cover.
Would a man of your skills be interested in designing a 3d printable mudguard bridge, similar to the one for the Vitus Venon I posted a page back? It only needs to fit round the back of the seat stays and be held in place by the M5 bolts on the frame there. At its centre there should be a hole to accept an M5 bolt from below to fix the mudguard, or alternatively a horizontal hole that can be used to attach a mudguard bracket with a horizontal bolt. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to persuade you in this endevour! :)
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Hi,
I bought the gr201 frameset and handlebars last month, in the mean time that i'm waiting I was looking at this thread.
I saw that a lot of people use a Lexon cockpit instead of the supplied cockpit. Is the supplied cockpit not good or does it have problems or something?
I'm really debating now if I too should buy an other cockpit, and if so, wich one haha.
Love to hear feedback!
The supplied cockpit suffers from the trash c ring. So the Lexon works fine and is overall the cheapest option.
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Hello, everyone.
What is the largest single crank you have installed?
I would like to install a 48T. Is that possible?
Are spacers needed?
Can you advise me? :D
I run a Riro carbon crank set, shimano sized spindle, 46T with a 2mm MUQZI spacer and still have enough clearance. That would be the absoulute max. I would run tbh.
Anyway, does someone managed to mount a Tailfin rack on this frame, using the quick release for the extender thru axle? I'm not familiar with this system, if the frame has a UDH.
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The compression rings are usually matched to the bearing's internal chamfer angle. As I understand it, these bikes are supplied with 45 degree outer and 45 degree inner chamfers, which matches the Deda DCR system, therefore a Deda DCR compression ring should work with the supplied bearings. On the otherhand, the FSA ACR system uses 45/35 bearings so the top bearing would need to be swapped for a 52 x 40 x 7 - 45/35 to use an ACR c-ring. The other thing to note is that these c-rings often have notches to engage with the matching bearing cover.
Would a man of your skills be interested in designing a 3d printable mudguard bridge, similar to the one for the Vitus Venon I posted a page back? It only needs to fit round the back of the seat stays and be held in place by the M5 bolts on the frame there. At its centre there should be a hole to accept an M5 bolt from below to fix the mudguard, or alternatively a horizontal hole that can be used to attach a mudguard bracket with a horizontal bolt. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to persuade you in this endevour! :)
I was planning on adding a notch to engage with the top cover but after giving it some thought I realized that once the cables go through the stem and the c-ring, everything lines up and then does not really move because the cables keep it all aligned.
I am also considering printing new top cap and spacers for the cockpit (See pics) so that I don't need to use the internal routing of the handle bars. I have bought the Zeno Q-Connectors (zenocycleparts dot com) and routing the cables this way will make removal easier, especially if I want to swap between the standard forks and a gravel shock. or for maintenance etc. It will be tucked quite nicely under the handlebars. Once the bars arrive I will also make a little cover that can attach under the handlebars to cover the cables. I can use the computer mount screw to attach the cover.
I can certainly look into creating a mudguard bracket. The main thing is to consider how to attach it. I think the best would be two individual clamps that attaches to the left and right seat stays and then the bridge can attach to the clamps. Once I have my frame I will start measuring.
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What are folk who run 1x using to replace the front derailleur hanger? I asked for blanking plate for this, and got 4 rubber bungs, which I've put in for now but would prefer a more permanent solution.
Guess I could look to 3d print something, but was hoping for something more elequent.
I was just going to use the rubber plugs but then I decided to use it for a chain guide instead
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I run a Riro carbon crank set, shimano sized spindle, 46T with a 2mm MUQZI spacer and still have enough clearance. That would be the absoulute max. I would run tbh.
Anyway, does someone managed to mount a Tailfin rack on this frame, using the quick release for the extender thru axle? I'm not familiar with this system, if the frame has a UDH.
I'm not sure if I understand correctly. My English isn't very good.
I'm ordering parts and don't want to make a mistake.
Will it fit a maximum of 48T or 46T?
https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008108016818.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4825452czQH8Wh&mp=1&pdp_npi=5%40dis%21PLN%21PLN%20268.00%21PLN%20255.59%21%21PLN%20255.59%21%21%21%40211b61a417582505566186458ec03e%2112000043803181878%21ct%21PL%212077547818%21%211%210&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol
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I was just going to use the rubber plugs but then I decided to use it for a chain guide instead
Właśnie udało mi się znaleźć to na AliExpress:
30,61zł | ZTTO MTB Road Bike Single Speed Chain Guide Gravel Bike Cross-country Direct Mount Chain Drop Catcher 1xSystem Przednia przerzutka
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQOu0AI
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Właśnie udało mi się znaleźć to na AliExpress:
30,61zł | ZTTO MTB Road Bike Single Speed Chain Guide Gravel Bike Cross-country Direct Mount Chain Drop Catcher 1xSystem Przednia przerzutka
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQOu0AI
Yes, that is the one I got
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Nice. Bearing size is 52x40x7 (top and bottom).
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html
somebody on the x68 thread posted these bearings as a replacement for the x68, but since on tantan website it says they are the same size on gr201, will they fit on the gr201 too?
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Anyone running a short stem (or short stem/bar combo) on this frame?
I looked at the geometry and feel like I could do both 560 and 580. Never had a gravel bike so my road bike is all I have to compare with.
Currently I'm on the latest Supersix Evo size 58 with 100mm stem and 90mm bar reach.
For the GR201 I'd like the 58 for the stack (so I can slam it more or less) and to avoid toe overlap (size 47/48 shoes and plan on running wide tires). Don't know if toe overlap is a huge issue with how long this bike is but anyway, a concern.
So to replicate the position I could just do 10-15mm shorter stem/bar combo on the GR201-frame, which I guess is no problem. But then again I don't know if I should even sit as long on a gravel bike generally. If I end up wanting to go shorter reach I'm concerned running a 70mm stem or something will make the bike handle weirdly.
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Anyone running a short stem (or short stem/bar combo) on this frame?
I looked at the geometry and feel like I could do both 560 and 580. Never had a gravel bike so my road bike is all I have to compare with.
Currently I'm on the latest Supersix Evo size 58 with 100mm stem and 90mm bar reach.
For the GR201 I'd like the 58 for the stack (so I can slam it more or less) and to avoid toe overlap (size 47/48 shoes and plan on running wide tires). Don't know if toe overlap is a huge issue with how long this bike is but anyway, a concern.
So to replicate the position I could just do 10-15mm shorter stem/bar combo on the GR201-frame, which I guess is no problem. But then again I don't know if I should even sit as long on a gravel bike generally. If I end up wanting to go shorter reach I'm concerned running a 70mm stem or something will make the bike handle weirdly.
I am running a size 56 with 80 mm combo and doesn‘t feel weird at all. Long reach, short stem is a quite up-to-date combination for race gravel, e.g. Canyon Grail.
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can anyone report their chainline measurement? I've installed senicx crankset https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005817385849.html
with a 42T ring
but it feels quite rough when in the largest cassette (50t), the chain looks to be quite twisted in this setup compared to when its in the 11t.
on paper the front and rear chainline numbers are off by about 3cm! but I can't change the back obviously, and all I could do on front is try mount an 3mm offset ring to bring the chainring more inboard to make the chainline straighter on the big cassette
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can anyone report their chainline measurement? I've installed senicx crankset https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005817385849.html
with a 42T ring
but it feels quite rough when in the largest cassette (50t), the chain looks to be quite twisted in this setup compared to when its in the 11t.
on paper the front and rear chainline numbers are off by about 3cm! but I can't change the back obviously, and all I could do on front is try mount an 3mm offset ring to bring the chainring more inboard to make the chainline straighter on the big cassette
What does your chainline measure currently?
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I threw out the page with my measurements on it, but from memory, the front was 48mm or so, the rear 76ish
took bike for quick 2km spin around the block, couple of things needed to be tightened out adjusted but feels lovely so far. hoping to get a couple of hours on it tomorrow see how it really feels. and see how the large cassette feels when climbing
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Hey guys, my first gravel bike is finally finished.
Frame: LongTeng GV201
Crankset: Senicx 2x 30-46
Derailleur/Shifter: Ltwoo R9 with an 11-34 cassette
Wheels: CSC UCI carbon
Tires: Continental Terra Trail 45-700 tubeless
Weight: 9.750g (The frame bag with a pump, multitool, and tire plugs is inside the frame)
(https://i.ibb.co/tMhmP8sr/IMG20250921120835.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMhmP8sr) (https://i.ibb.co/cXXK9hSW/IMG20250921120842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cXXK9hSW) (https://i.ibb.co/xSnTC4Sm/IMG20250921121247.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xSnTC4Sm)
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Build complete, about to take on shakedown ride in the Dublin mountains. crept to 9.0kg despite trying to stay as light as possible . Longteng gv201, 35mm wheels from Peter, sram axs mullet setup, panaracer gravelking x1 45mm tyres
Update after shakedown.
Hate hate hate the bartape I used, will be replacing it before next outing. Had to rotate bars away from me, so will need to reposition shifters as a result. Otherwise loving it so far, though taking a bit of time to get used to the AXS compared to mechanical - am used to one lever doing both up-and-down shifts on the cassette. Couple more tweaks to position and all should be good I think.
Is it just me, or is the downtube storage a bit tight? I was hoping/planning to 3dprint a mount for under the cover to hold a co2 cartridge/inflator/tubeless darts, and leave the bag in the storage for other stuff like multitool/TPU tube etc, but I don't think that'll be at all possible....
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Hey guys, I need some advice from you. On my GV201, I used a Senicx PR3 2x crankset with a 30-46t chainring setup, but the problem is it has a Q-factor of 151mm. I need a wider Q-factor. Do you have any ideas for something that costs about the same as the Senicx and is just as well-made?
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Hey guys, I need some advice from you. On my GV201, I used a Senicx PR3 2x crankset with a 30-46t chainring setup, but the problem is it has a Q-factor of 151mm. I need a wider Q-factor. Do you have any ideas for something that costs about the same as the Senicx and is just as well-made?
If you just need to widen your stance, get some pedal extenders - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007347533847.html
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I considered using pedal spacers, but they only partially solve the problem. The main issue is that the crank arm passes very close to the front derailleur when it's in the longest gear.
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If you just need to widen your stance, get some pedal extenders - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007347533847.html
don't get these. super soft threads. i was extremely lucky to not ruin my expensive cranks with them
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Hey folks,
Finally finished going through this thread and thought I’d sign up and share my build.
I’ve ordered GR201 from TanTan about 3 weeks ago now, still waiting for shipment. I guess they must be mega busy these days as it seems it was faster earlier in the year. I don’t mind waiting as I had previously ordered a Titanium frame from another company that took so long I gave up and demanded a refund, but that’s another story!
I’m about 187cm with 85cm inseam. Decided to go with size 540 as I noticed reach is pretty long on these frames and it’s closest to my current road bike, though stack is a lot lower so I’ll most likely need spacers.
It’s my first ever build and can’t wait to get stuck in. Wanted to build my own bike for ages and it’s been fun slowly building up the parts which are:
Full Shimano GRX 1x12 10-51
Alugear 46T chainring (last thing I need to order)
Hunt Gravel 35 wheels
Schwalbe G One RX pro 700X50
Enve cockpit (headset/stem/bar) - yea this one stung but I wanted to invest in a decent cockpit
Thank god for AliExpress as I’ve picked up pretty much all the tools from there plus all the little bits and bobs you need.
Only thing I might not do is cut the steerer as I don’t want to screw it up and have to buy a saw/blade/vice for literally a 2 minute job.
Will share pics when the frame arrives!
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you'll have to cut the steerer, otherwise a) it will look absolutely awful with that much sticking up above the stem - I've taken about 6cm off mine as a first pass, leaving about 1.5 or 2 to play with, but will ultimately end up with it level with the topcap. and b) I don't know if you will get a compression plug long enough to go deep enough to ensure the stem is clamped around it.
Only other alternative is to have it look like one of those long-necked karen-women and have the spacers under it but will still look absolutely awful.
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I’ve ordered GR201 from TanTan about 3 weeks ago now, still waiting for shipment. I guess they must be mega busy these days as it seems it was faster earlier in the year. I don’t mind waiting as I had previously ordered a Titanium frame from another company that took so long I gave up and demanded a refund, but that’s another story!
I ordered mine on the 6th of July, I'm still waiting. It was shipped 3 weeks ago but they use China Post so its a slow process. Mine left China on Friday, flew 6 hours and now been stuck at a transfer hub (Probably Singapore) for the last 4 days.
Be patient and it will come, I have faith :)
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Build complete, about to take on shakedown ride in the Dublin mountains. crept to 9.0kg despite trying to stay as light as possible . Longteng gv201, 35mm wheels from Peter, sram axs mullet setup, panaracer gravelking x1 45mm tyres
Update after shakedown.
Hate hate hate the bartape I used, will be replacing it before next outing. Had to rotate bars away from me, so will need to reposition shifters as a result. Otherwise loving it so far, though taking a bit of time to get used to the AXS compared to mechanical - am used to one lever doing both up-and-down shifts on the cassette. Couple more tweaks to position and all should be good I think.
Is it just me, or is the downtube storage a bit tight? I was hoping/planning to 3dprint a mount for under the cover to hold a co2 cartridge/inflator/tubeless darts, and leave the bag in the storage for other stuff like multitool/TPU tube etc, but I don't think that'll be at all possible....
Bike looks great, can you please link the bag you have screwed onto the top tube.
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you'll have to cut the steerer, otherwise a) it will look absolutely awful with that much sticking up above the stem - I've taken about 6cm off mine as a first pass, leaving about 1.5 or 2 to play with, but will ultimately end up with it level with the topcap. and b) I don't know if you will get a compression plug long enough to go deep enough to ensure the stem is clamped around it.
Only other alternative is to have it look like one of those long-necked karen-women and have the spacers under it but will still look absolutely awful.
Sorry mate I prob didnt explain that well. I’ll definitely get it cut but I’ll prob have my local bike shop do it as I’m too chicken to do it myself 😂
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Anyone running a short stem (or short stem/bar combo) on this frame?
I looked at the geometry and feel like I could do both 560 and 580. Never had a gravel bike so my road bike is all I have to compare with.
Currently I'm on the latest Supersix Evo size 58 with 100mm stem and 90mm bar reach.
For the GR201 I'd like the 58 for the stack (so I can slam it more or less) and to avoid toe overlap (size 47/48 shoes and plan on running wide tires). Don't know if toe overlap is a huge issue with how long this bike is but anyway, a concern.
So to replicate the position I could just do 10-15mm shorter stem/bar combo on the GR201-frame, which I guess is no problem. But then again I don't know if I should even sit as long on a gravel bike generally. If I end up wanting to go shorter reach I'm concerned running a 70mm stem or something will make the bike handle weirdly.
If you want a higer Stack and also more toe clearance at the wheels, maybe have a look at the GR208
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Bike looks great, can you please link the bag you have screwed onto the top tube.
Thanks - sure, this is it www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007511844142.html
Can screw down or has straps also
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Thanks - sure, this is it www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007511844142.html
Can screw down or has straps also
Great, thanks
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Never buy ZTTO cassettes. This is the result after only 40km.
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A bike with full length fitted mudguards - best thing I ever did for winter riding 8)
Now with full length PDW 55s. Winter is coming! :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54806506436_54091522fc_c.jpg)
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Hello, I'm new to the forum, I'm from Germany, and I'm currently building a gravel bike with the TaTan GR201 frame.
I have a few questions: I bought the Riro carbon crank. What kind of bottom bracket do you use for this? Can you recommend anything?
I've already read here that the TanTan handlebars aren't that good, so I'd like to order a different pair. What size would you choose for the Lexon Unox?
Here are the components I've chosen.
Frame Tan Tan GVR201
Elitewheels ENT Gravel
MT900 | 160 mm IceTech Center-Lock rotors
Riro MTB carbon fiber crankset
Wheeltop New GeX Gravel Bike
SPEDAO 12S road cassettes
KOCEVLO Dimension 143 carbon saddle
Sram X01 Eagle chain
Zipp Service Course handlebar tape
Schwalbe G-ONE Overland
Shimano brake discs
Internal frame protection tube
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I bought the Riro carbon crank. What kind of bottom bracket do you use for this? Can you recommend anything?
The frame has a T47 86mm but the riro cranks exist in both 24mm and 30mm versions afaik. You need to figure out which one you bought and buy a T47 86mm according to the crank spindle size
I've already read here that the TanTan handlebars aren't that good, so I'd like to order a different pair. What size would you choose for the Lexon Unox?
this is entirely personal and nobody can answer that for you. you either get a bike fit or have an existing bike that is comfortable (and comparable in use, a gravel bike isn't a beach cruiser or a TT bike) and shove it in a geometry calculator to see how much reach you need for the same fit
the components you chose are all compatible from what i see, but do bear in mind a road cassette on a 1x gravel bike is going to be quite hard, unless you are very strong or live in a boring shitho- flat place. alternatively, i'm personally not a fan of shimano rotors after using iiipro rotors
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Thanks for the information. The Riro crank is 24 mm. Then I'll probably buy the T47 I.B. Shimano Hollowtec II.
Yes, we only have flat terrain here, but I'll take another look to see if I can install a different cassette. I guess you can replace the Riro chainring? Then I could use a smaller one here, maybe.
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Bike Arrived today, Box was a bit mangled but everything looks okay at first glance.
Now the fun begins
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Bike Arrived today, Box was a bit mangled but everything looks okay at first glance.
Now the fun begins
Sweet - I saw that on the Seraph insta a couple of days ago - Looks nice!
Mine coming from Tideace, after sitting in China for 10days at the courier is now getting close (18 miles away)
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Build now complete.
Took exactly 80 days from date of order to arrive at my front door.
Build includes;
GR201 Size 52.
Shimano GRX 1X12 Mechanical.
SLX 10-51 Cassette.
Magene P515 Cranks with Wolftooth 46T chainring. Had to install a 1mm spacer on the drive side to prevent the spider from binding on the frame.
Elite SLR 38mm Gravel wheels.
Schwalbe G-One RS wheels (45mm).
YBN 12s gold chain.
From my parts bin;
Shimano SPD pedals, well used.
Specialized Avatar Saddle.
Chainring has about 2mm clearance at the chain stay.
Will be replacing the 46T with a 42T once it arrives.
Will take it for a shakedown ride in the the morning.
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Build now complete.
Took exactly 80 days from date of order to arrive at my front door.
Build includes;
GR201 Size 52.
Shimano GRX 1X12 Mechanical.
SLX 10-51 Cassette.
Magene P515 Cranks with Wolftooth 46T chainring. Had to install a 1mm spacer on the drive side to prevent the spider from binding on the frame.
Elite SLR 38mm Gravel wheels.
Schwalbe G-One RS wheels (45mm).
YBN 12s gold chain.
From my parts bin;
Shimano SPD pedals, well used.
Specialized Avatar Saddle.
Chainring has about 2mm clearance at the chain stay.
Will be replacing the 46T with a 42T once it arrives.
Will take it for a shakedown ride in the the morning.
That has to be one of the fastest "box in the door to bike out the door" ever!
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Yeah, I had everything pre prepped and ready for the build. Chain stripped and waxed, Wheels with tires, cassette and rotors fitted etc.
First ride was good. Mechanical shifting exceeded my expectations, the new 12 speed GRX is so much smoother than my 11s.
Only problem I had was the seat tilting when I hit a bump hard, tightened it down and back in business.
Overall I must say I cannot be happier with the build, the bike feels solid. The 46T chainring is definitely too big for some of the climbs but that should change in the next week or so.
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Hello,
which bottom bracket would you recommend? I actually wanted to buy Shimano Hollowtech T47, but it's sold out everywhere here. Is there a good one on AliExpress?
Oh, and it should be 24 mm for a Riro crank.
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Build now complete.
Took exactly 80 days from date of order to arrive at my front door.
Build includes;
GR201 Size 52.
Shimano GRX 1X12 Mechanical.
SLX 10-51 Cassette.
Magene P515 Cranks with Wolftooth 46T chainring. Had to install a 1mm spacer on the drive side to prevent the spider from binding on the frame.
Elite SLR 38mm Gravel wheels.
Schwalbe G-One RS wheels (45mm).
YBN 12s gold chain.
From my parts bin;
Shimano SPD pedals, well used.
Specialized Avatar Saddle.
Chainring has about 2mm clearance at the chain stay.
Will be replacing the 46T with a 42T once it arrives.
Will take it for a shakedown ride in the the morning.
Nice build! What is your height and inner leg length?
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Nice build! What is your height and inner leg length?
I'm 1.74M, Inseam is 810mm
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How would you compare this frame geometry to, let's say, the Lightcarbon LCG074?
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Sweet - I saw that on the Seraph insta a couple of days ago - Looks nice!
Mine coming from Tideace, after sitting in China for 10days at the courier is now getting close (18 miles away)
Well, my frame has obviously arrived. I am having some wheels built up with some Serenade Wavy Rims I bought. These should be ready this week. But the biggest holdup now is the handlebars - I really wasn't happy with the look of the bars that came with the bike so I have ordered some Lexon Unox. When these arrive I can get the build finished off and post some piccys.
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Woke up to an email from Jessi this morning saying my bike has been dispatched!
Exactly 4 weeks to the day since i placed the order.
Now i'll be watching the tracking page like a hawk :D
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Well, i somehow cracked my Lexon Unox this weekend while doing the most basic wheelie on the road. Heard a light "crack" after landing the front wheel, thinking it was just the seapost creaking.
Only saw it at home while cleaning with the microfiber catching on the crack. It looks superficial, probably just the top coat but safety first: tossed the bar in the part bin.
Ordered a full Deda DCR system : Superbox 100mm + Deda alloy Gravel bar in 380mm + DCR Headset.
Hydraulics rooted internally thru the stem and bar, both shifting cables underneath the stem and it looks pretty neat i must say.
I used the 35x45° compression ring (the grey one sold with the superbox stem) for a minimal gap between the top bearing cover and frame. The 45x45° compression ring made too big of a gap for my liking.
Looks less cooler than the one piece combo, but on the upside: no more headset play at all and everything is stiffer and pretty bomb proof now. Won't break that with my whole 65kg anytime soon lol
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I now have my 42T Chainring fitted to the Magene P515.
For those interested, using a 1mm spacer on the drive side with the 42T 3mm offset chainring the chainline is 46mm
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yeah i got my 3mm offset 42T yesterday and installed it, seems to be slightly less noisy and feel less resistance in biggest cassette when moving the pedals on the stand.
Off for a 100km gravel race on Saturday, my comeback goal following ruptured achilles surgery back in Feb, signed up the day after surgery. Fingers xxd me and the bike both be in one piece come sat evening!
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yeah i got my 3mm offset 42T yesterday and installed it, seems to be slightly less noisy and feel less resistance in biggest cassette when moving the pedals on the stand.
Off for a 100km gravel race on Saturday, my comeback goal following ruptured achilles surgery back in Feb, signed up the day after surgery. Fingers xxd me and the bike both be in one piece come sat evening!
Good luck 🤞
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I now have my 42T Chainring fitted to the Magene P515.
For those interested, using a 1mm spacer on the drive side with the 42T 3mm offset chainring the chainline is 46mm
Curious on doing this too, would be the most cost effective way to get a power meter on my bike (also 12 speed 1x GRX).
Can you explain in more detail what stuff I need and what I need to consider?
I don't have the GR201, but current bike has clearance for 48T chainring, so I'm hoping I can fit a 44/46T.
What 3mm offset chainring did you buy? Are there many options out there?
Also the 1mm spacer, where is it?
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Good luck 🤞
Thanks but it's fucked now. storm amy (ex hurricane humberto) has caused it to be cancelled :'( :'( :'( :'(
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How would you compare this frame geometry to, let's say, the Lightcarbon LCG074?
I think this might give you a better idea https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=6683dd20855d41001ab88973,688b75c299fc6a001bb93e17,
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Curious on doing this too, would be the most cost effective way to get a power meter on my bike (also 12 speed 1x GRX).
Can you explain in more detail what stuff I need and what I need to consider?
I don't have the GR201, but current bike has clearance for 48T chainring, so I'm hoping I can fit a 44/46T.
What 3mm offset chainring did you buy? Are there many options out there?
Also the 1mm spacer, where is it?
Chainring I got from this store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008844119020.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.4c791802uxABki
the 1mm spacer I had in my parts bin, you just need any 1mmx24mm Crank arm spacer
For the 1x12s GRX, get your GRX Shifters and Rear Derailleur. Make sure you get a Shimano original Cassette 10-51 on a Shimano Microspline freehub. The cassette is super important to get right if you want smooth shifting.
If you want a 44/46T Chainring dont get the 3mm offset unless you are willing to add more spacers on the crank arm. 0 Offset 44 or 46 works but the chainline is not ideal
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Hi!
I'm looking for the width and length of the frame storage opening, cant seem to find anywhere.
Can any happy owner measure it?
A bonus for anyone who can compare it to the Spesh Diverge's SWAT.
Cheers,
C
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Chainring I got from this store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008844119020.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.4c791802uxABki
the 1mm spacer I had in my parts bin, you just need any 1mmx24mm Crank arm spacer
For the 1x12s GRX, get your GRX Shifters and Rear Derailleur. Make sure you get a Shimano original Cassette 10-51 on a Shimano Microspline freehub. The cassette is super important to get right if you want smooth shifting.
If you want a 44/46T Chainring dont get the 3mm offset unless you are willing to add more spacers on the crank arm. 0 Offset 44 or 46 works but the chainline is not ideal
GRX crank has like a 49mm chainline afaik so spacers shouldn’t be needed right?
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Chainring I got from this store
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008844119020.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.34.4c791802uxABki
the 1mm spacer I had in my parts bin, you just need any 1mmx24mm Crank arm spacer
For the 1x12s GRX, get your GRX Shifters and Rear Derailleur. Make sure you get a Shimano original Cassette 10-51 on a Shimano Microspline freehub. The cassette is super important to get right if you want smooth shifting.
If you want a 44/46T Chainring dont get the 3mm offset unless you are willing to add more spacers on the crank arm. 0 Offset 44 or 46 works but the chainline is not ideal
I might be stupid (probably just inexperienced) but are they offset toward frame or away from it? Looking at your link they’re all 3mm offset.
Magene chainline for outer ring should be ~47, whereas GRX is 49.7.
So with 3mm offset are we’re talking 44 or 50?
First you mounted the wolf tooth chainring, was it offset too?
And also why different offset based on chainring size? Shouldn’t ideal chainline be the same (whatever that is) independent of chainring size? Or does it have more to do with clearance?
Sorry I’ve never done anything out of standard for any bike really so this is quite new to me.
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I might be stupid (probably just inexperienced) but are they offset toward frame or away from it? Looking at your link they’re all 3mm offset.
Magene chainline for outer ring should be ~47, whereas GRX is 49.7.
So with 3mm offset are we’re talking 44 or 50?
First you mounted the wolf tooth chainring, was it offset too?
And also why different offset based on chainring size? Shouldn’t ideal chainline be the same (whatever that is) independent of chainring size? Or does it have more to do with clearance?
Sorry I’ve never done anything out of standard for any bike really so this is quite new to me.
So the Magene chainline of 47 is measured to the center of the spider, that's because its a 2x crankset, all 2x cranksets chainlines are measured to the midpoint between the 2 chainrings.
1x Cranksets offset is measured to the midpoint of the chainring.
The Wolftooth Chain Ring has no offset so chainline was ~49.5 (same as GRX) and only had less than 2mm space between the frame and the chainring.
3mm Offset bring the chainring closer to the frame. so a 46 with 3mm offset would rub on the chainstay.
The 42T with the 3mm offset brings your chainline to 46.5 (mine measures 46 with the 1 mm spacer) I hardly have enough space between the chainring and the frame to clean with a thin rag.
The chainstay (the part of the frame that runs from the bottom bracket to the rear axle) gets wider as it goes toward the axle end as it has to accommodate the rear hub. Once you go bigger than 42T the chain stay gets too wide so the chainring will start rubbing on the chain stay. to overcome this you have to move the chainring further away from the frame (Bottom Bracket) hence 3mm offset no longer works unless you also add spacers on the crank spindle to move the spider further out. If you add too many spacers on the drive side spindle, your left side will no linger have enough spindle left for the left crank arm to grip safely so you have to consider that too
When you look at the picture, you will see that if I add a bigger chainring it will rub on the chainstay, unless I add a spacer on the spindle
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Hi!
I'm looking for the width and length of the frame storage opening, cant seem to find anywhere.
Can any happy owner measure it?
A bonus for anyone who can compare it to the Spesh Diverge's SWAT.
Cheers,
C
I got 50x140 mm for the opening on mine.
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Hey guys, about to build up the frame as soon as I receive Lexon Unox handlebars. Could tell me what I need to do with spacers for handlebar to sit flush?
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Finally collected my wheels from the wheel builder today so managed to get the whole thing complete. A couple of laps around the estate and everything seems fine. Will get a proper ride in on Sunday. Currently have it set up with 35mm road tyres.
Love the way it looks and feels so far 🤩
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Finally collected my wheels from the wheel builder today so managed to get the whole thing complete. A couple of laps around the estate and everything seems fine. Will get a proper ride in on Sunday. Currently have it set up with 35mm road tyres.
Love the way it looks and feels so far 🤩
This is such a nice colorway. That green is sick and it gets better with the gradient.
Really like the build too. Do you plan on running it road setup?
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Finally collected my wheels from the wheel builder today so managed to get the whole thing complete. A couple of laps around the estate and everything seems fine. Will get a proper ride in on Sunday. Currently have it set up with 35mm road tyres.
Love the way it looks and feels so far 🤩
Very nice!
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This is such a nice colorway. That green is sick and it gets better with the gradient.
Really like the build too. Do you plan on running it road setup?
Thanks - I'm really happy with it. When you are buying 'off-plan' from China its a bit daunting as to what you are going to get, but thanks to places like this forum & other similar communities you at least get some confidence.
The paint scheme 'up close' is amazing.
For the fireseeable I'm just going to run it on the road I think. i doubt I'll take it on the trails till next spring now.
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Anyone else have the semi-integrated headset from Tideace feel wierd when on bumpy terrain?
It's like it feels loose... and I've probably tightened it a bit much already.
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I installed a xcadey powermeter with this chainring: https://alugear.com/chainrings-1x/290-15629-round-1-speed-for-12sp-110-bcd-4b-shimano-asymmetric-roadgravel.html#/11-color-black/33-size-38t (size 44). I think its too close to the chainstay, i've added 3mm spacers on de driveside but still...
Any ideas?
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Anyone else have the semi-integrated headset from Tideace feel wierd when on bumpy terrain?
It's like it feels loose... and I've probably tightened it a bit much already.
Looks like enough clearance. do you have enough of the spindle for proper grip on the no drive side crank arm?
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Yeah, that wasnt a problem I think
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I installed a xcadey powermeter with this chainring: https://alugear.com/chainrings-1x/290-15629-round-1-speed-for-12sp-110-bcd-4b-shimano-asymmetric-roadgravel.html#/11-color-black/33-size-38t (size 44). I think its too close to the chainstay, i've added 3mm spacers on de driveside but still...
Any ideas?
What crank are you using?
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What crank are you using?
The 24mm version
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TanTan GR201 (size 54) — White “stormtrooper” build
Inspired by the other GR201 builds, I also went with a white gloss paintjob for the stormtrooper look. Cost is ~€3.5k and the bike should land around 8.2 kg with pedals, cages, and sealant (haven’t weighed the complete bike yet — my scale is borrowed).
Rider / fit
178 cm / 70 kg. Size 54 fits me very well with a 100 mm stem and 80 mm handlebar reach; I might try a slightly shorter stem for snappier handling.
Spec highlights (Full build in PDF)
• Frameset: GR201 size 54 — frame 1,272 g; fork 392 g; axles 66 g; headset 128 g.
• Cockpit: Lexon UNOX 400×100 integrated bar/stem — 344 g (needed a few spare spacers to mate nicely with the headset).
• Seatpost: Elita One MT05 — 141 g.
• Crankset Leese C01 160 mm cranks (373 g) + PassQuest 44T (105 g);
• Drivetrain: AXS mix — Apex HRD levers (477 g), Rival HRD calipers (190 g), Red XPLR RD (378 g), Red chain (247 g), XG-1391 cassette (287 g).
• Wheelset: Elitewheels Edge Gravel 2.0 — 1,284 g.
• Tires (tubeless): Conti Race King 2.2 front (606 g), Schwalbe Thunder Burt 2.1 rear (571 g), Orange Seal.
• Pedals: Favero Assioma Pro MX-2 — 384 g.
• Hardware: Most mounting hardware has been replaced with Ti Bolts, Aluminum Adapters and Aluminum Bolts
Ordering & frame details
• Inquiry: Jul 4 → Order: Jul 7 → Photos + tracking: Jul 28 → Delivery (Germany): Aug 7
• Finish: White gloss (YS701). Fork supplied without side 3-bolt mounts (on request).
• Included: headset + both thru-axles.
• Paid via PayPal F&F. Final price from TanTan incl. shipping/taxes: USD 729.
• Notes on quality out of the box: paint is OK but not boutique; some overspray on flat-mounts; mounts a bit flaky. BB shell was clean.
Quick notes after the build
• Coming from a 2020 Diverge X1 (40 mm clearance with 40 mm Thundero tires), this is a big step up for comfort, grip, and tire volume.
• 160 mm cranks are great — I won’t go back to 170+ mm.
• The new SRAM Red 1×13 (10–46) shifts nicely, but I’ll probably revert to a 10–50 Eagle for better climbing range. (I wish there was a 1x13 10-52 option yet)
• There’s ample room for a larger ring — 48T, possibly even 50T, though 44 is good enough for most gravel descents where I live.
• Paint finish is so-so; bolt mounts a bit flaky. Flat-mount faces were oversprayed and not very flat; still working on rotor alignment and may need more careful sanding.
• The Lexon cockpit feels good; took a bit of tinkering and extra spacer/adapter to get the interface right.
Conclusion
At ~€3.5k this is incredible value: essentially best-in-class drivetrain, ultralight wheels, Favero power meter pedals, and clearance for proper wide tires — all wrapped up in a sub-8.2 kg package. The only real complaints are that the frame itself is on the heavier side compared to the rest of the build, and the integrated storage feels a bit unnecessary to me.
I was wondering, from the website of tantan it states a max chainring for 1x of 38T, yet i see alot of people going way higher. Is the information false on the tan tan website?
Looking to get this frame for my first own build. (complet newbie here)
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It’s wrong. Max size (for SRAM Wide) is 46T.
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New chameleon green in size 52 incoming!
Whats seems to be the current consensus for an eletronic 1x grouposet?
Been eying the GeX and the Ltwoo, but more keen on the GeX for the 52t compability.
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It’s wrong. Max size (for SRAM Wide) is 46T.
Would that be the same for Shimano Grx you think?
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Here’s my new GV201 build from Tideace — put together mostly with Chinese-sourced components, and I’m seriously impressed 👌
Running 35mm road tyres at the moment since most of my riding’s on tarmac. Super comfy, still quick on club runs, and I’m not missing my pure road setup one bit 🚴♂️💨
A few hundred KM in and it hasn’t missed a beat. The only adjustment so far? Tightening the saddle clamp after the first ride. Everything else — flawless ✅
The fit & finish of the frame is brilliant — love the ice crack paint and custom decals. Frame storage is rattle-free, BB shell and brake mounts were perfect, headset went together like a dream. Took exactly one month from order to delivery to the UK 🇨🇳➡️🇬🇧
Drivetrain: 12s 105 Di2, ZTTO Ultimate 11–36 cassette, ZTTO Rainbow chain, RIRO cranks + XCadey PM, Pass Quest 50/34 rings — shifting has been spot on 🔧
Wheels: Serenade wavey rims (25int/34ext — 50mm rear, 40mm front), laced with Hyperlite spokes & Bitex ratchet hubs by my local builder. Came in at just 1270g 😍
Finishing kit:
Lexon Unox bars • Elita One Master post • Ryet 3D printed saddle • ZTTO T47 BB (with upgraded stainless bearings) • SLT headset bearings for long life 👏
Still hunting for lighter pedals, but as built it’s 8.6 kg — not bad at all! 💪
#Tideace #GV201 #CustomBuild #ZTTO #Bitex #PropelBikes #RoadBike #BikeBuild #CyclingLife #Di2 #LightweightBuild #ChineseCarbon
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Would that be the same for Shimano Grx you think?
I am running a 1x11 GRX with a 46t chainring on a Magene PES515 powermeter. It works fine, about 6k km in so far.
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Here’s my new GV201 build from Tideace — put together mostly with Chinese-sourced components, and I’m seriously impressed 👌
In love with this paint scheme. Nice work
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Heres my build, finished on the weekend and rode it today.
LTwoo 1x12 groupset with a ZRace (I think) 36t crank.
Some old Prime wheels with Tufo Thundero HD in 44c. Rides fine, a few minor adjustments needed but happy so far.
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Właśnie udało mi się znaleźć to na AliExpress:
30,61zł | ZTTO MTB Road Bike Single Speed Chain Guide Gravel Bike Cross-country Direct Mount Chain Drop Catcher 1xSystem Przednia przerzutka
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQOu0AI
Yes, that is the one I got
which model of chainguide is suitable? CG21 or CG22?
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My GR201 finished
1x 13 SRAM XPLR force
Zencarbon wheels and other carbon components
Lexon Unox handlebars
Alugear chainring
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All black - can not go wrong..
58 size frame,
elitewheels,
46T with Magene PES cranks,
LTWOO - GR12,
ZTTO cassete,
Lexon Gravel Aero 540mm wide
only thing that ordered in EU was tires, chain and spare shimano pedals that was waiting in box.
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All black - can not go wrong..
58 size frame,
elitewheels,
46T with Magene PES cranks,
LTWOO - GR12,
ZTTO cassete,
Lexon Gravel Aero 540mm wide
only thing that ordered in EU was tires, chain and spare shimano pedals that was waiting in box.
What chainring did you use?
Any special adaptations done (like spindle spacers)?
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Goldix 110BCD chainring - with some handmade spacers on spindle, as mentioned before in this topic.
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Hey folks, looking for some help as I’m about to loose my marbles.
Centering the front Shimano brake was a piece of cake.
For the rear, I have a 160mm Shimano rotor so I had to buy a Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D adapter.
For the life of me I cannot get the damn thing to center. Soon as I tighten the bolts the caliper moves just a fraction and the wheel is barely spinning.
I’ve tried everything I can think of but I just can’t get it to stay put when I tighten it. Added a pic just in case I’m doing something wrong.
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Get a clam like this
https://www.birzman.com/products_2.php?uID=2&cID=4&Key=133
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Get a clam like this
https://www.birzman.com/products_2.php?uID=2&cID=4&Key=133
Thanks mate, just ordered a couple from AliExpress, hopefully it does the trick.
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how much are people torquing the stem where it clamps onto the steerer for the integrated handlebars? I did mine at 5nm but I was getting some clicking sounds coming from there when riding out of the seat going uphill. now tightened it to 6nm and its quiet but worried that 6nm might be too much
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how much are people torquing the stem where it clamps onto the steerer for the integrated handlebars? I did mine at 5nm but I was getting some clicking sounds coming from there when riding out of the seat going uphill. now tightened it to 6nm and its quiet but worried that 6nm might be too much
For anyone interested, I mailed Tantan. These are the Torque values for the GR201
handlebar=8-10nm
saddle clamp=4-5NM
seatpost clamp=8-10NM
rear hanger=3NM
Bottle cage hole=3NM
thru axle =9-13NM
headset expander=8-10NM
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For anyone interested, I mailed Tantan. These are the Torque values for the GR201
handlebar=8-10nm
saddle clamp=4-5NM
seatpost clamp=8-10NM
rear hanger=3NM
Bottle cage hole=3NM
thru axle =9-13NM
headset expander=8-10NM
10 Nm for Handlebar and Seatpost clamp sound inconventionally high... Usually, 5-6 Nm with carbon grip paste ist enough
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10 Nm for Handlebar and Seatpost clamp sound inconventionally high... Usually, 5-6 Nm with carbon grip paste ist enough
Similarly the 10nm for headset expander also seems high. I think ill just leave my handlebars at 6nm as that seems to be enough, seat post is also currently at 6nm and not slipping so no need to increase that either
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The thread says "Tideace GR201"
I am struggling to find that.
Is it actually the "GV201"
https://tideacebike.com/collections/gravel-bike-frame/products/fm-gv201-noah-carbon-gravel-bike-frame
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The thread says "Tideace GR201"
I am struggling to find that.
Is it actually the "GV201"
https://tideacebike.com/collections/gravel-bike-frame/products/fm-gv201-noah-carbon-gravel-bike-frame
I believe the frame is open mould and made/sold under slightly different model names:
Long Teng GV201
Tideace GV201
Tan Tan GR201
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I believe the frame is open mould and made/sold under slightly different model names:
Long Teng GV201
Tideace GV201
Tan Tan GR201
Thanks
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Hello,
has anyone tried integrating a lamp with a switch and power bank? It would be nice if the power bank could be placed in the frame like on the Rose Backroad.
The lamp is a Supernova Pro Mini with high beam.
(https://i.ibb.co/sv3ZSkgL/IMG-2715.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDKZXs13)
(https://i.ibb.co/Mky0Cqvk/ObSgYhv.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KxcvrCPx)
(https://i.ibb.co/RG5202Zp/YocFwWy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DPq4C4sD)
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Should be no problem. The only thing you need is a handlebar that allows cable guiding under the bar like on the photo for the lamp cable.
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Should be no problem. The only thing you need is a handlebar that allows cable guiding under the bar like on the photo for the lamp cable.
I ordered the Lexon Unox. I'll measure it when my frame arrives. I don't see any problem with the cables, but I do with the power bank.
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Why? Just buy one that fits into downtime storage and you have to find something to fix it inside the frame.
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Since the supernova supports 12V, you could use a 3S LiPo battery pack, used for model cars. As long as it fits into downtube storage.
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Why? Just buy one that fits into downtime storage and you have to find something to fix it inside the frame.
That's right. But it also has to be a power bank (with Power Delivery and 12v output). It should also have 20,000 mAh so that it lasts at least 10 hours in normal light.
@darario, Thanks, I'll take a look.
Edit: Okay, these 3S LiPo battery packs are clearly too weak. So it should be at least a 10,000 mAh or, better yet, a 20,000 mAh battery.
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The rated capacity of a powerbank refers to the rated voltage of 3.7V of a lithium cell of a powerbank. Means that a 3S battery with 11.1V rated power can store the same energy with ⅓ of the rated capacity.
10,000 mAh * 3,7 V ~ 37 Wh
3,333 mAh * 11.1 V ~ 37 Wh
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The rated capacity of a powerbank refers to the rated voltage of 3.7V of a lithium cell of a powerbank. Means that a 3S battery with 11.1V rated power can store the same energy with ⅓ of the rated capacity.
10,000 mAh * 3,7 V ~ 37 Wh
3,333 mAh * 11.1 V ~ 37 Wh
Thanks for your explanation, I overlooked that. You're right, of course.
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How many mounting holes are there in the frame?
What should be used to cover them? What will be the lightest?
Do you have any reliable links?
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You can use M5 nylon screws from AliX
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My build is complete.
Detailed adjustments remain, but I can ride now.
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My build is complete.
Detailed adjustments remain, but I can ride now.
dh mallets on Gravel?
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dh mallets on Gravel?
It's actually mallet E and it works pretty well on the single trail.
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Hi,
I have a question to the geometry (sorry, if this has been already asked, didn't read the full 65 pages):
According to the geo table, the frame in size 560 has a 145mm steerer tube and fork length 400mm. The HP says "support suspension fork", normally the gravel suspension forks are 425mm length.
This would mean, that the front will be relatively low, if it runs with a rigid fork, needing 2,5 cm more spacers.
Can anyone enlight me on this topic, or anybody having problems with the low front?
Thanks
Wolfgang
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I have the Lexon Unox bar on my gr201, when I stand on the padels and put down power the headset/ cockpit creaks. Could it be that the metal sleeve the Lexon Unox comes with isnt the snuggest fit and that I because of that my cockpit and headset not totally play-free get? Somebody else that also has this problem? Any solutions?
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I have the Lexon Unox bar on my gr201, when I stand on the padels and put down power the headset/ cockpit creaks. Could it be that the metal sleeve the Lexon Unox comes with isnt the snuggest fit and that I because of that my cockpit and headset not totally play-free get? Somebody else that also has this problem? Any solutions?
I have the bar that ships with the frame from Tanatan. Had a similar problem.
Turned out it wasn't the bar. The rear dropout wasn't faced properly and thus not perfectly flat so under pressure when standing out of the saddle the wheel had micro movements and the sound carried through the frame so sounded like it came from the cockpit. I just faced the rear dropout carefully to removed minimal material and that solved my problem.
Might not be the same for you, bottom line is that sounds are deceiving and could carry through the frame so check everything.
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I have the bar that ships with the frame from Tanatan. Had a similar problem.
Turned out it wasn't the bar. The rear dropout wasn't faced properly and thus not perfectly flat so under pressure when standing out of the saddle the wheel had micro movements and the sound carried through the frame so sounded like it came from the cockpit. I just faced the rear dropout carefully to removed minimal material and that solved my problem.
Might not be the same for you, bottom line is that sounds are deceiving and could carry through the frame so check everything.
I faced the breakmounts, no disc rubbing when standing on the pedals. I can also get the sound when I push the bars into the ground when standing still..
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I faced the breakmounts, no disc rubbing when standing on the pedals. I can also get the sound when I push the bars into the ground when standing still..
Just to clarify. Mine was not the Break Mounts, it was the dropouts where the hub makes contact with the frame.
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Just to clarify. Mine was not the Break Mounts, it was the dropouts where the hub makes contact with the frame.
Oh okay, sorry. Going to check it!
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Oh okay, sorry. Going to check it!
It was my left rear that was uneven and then down pressure on the bike as the bike moved side to side would cause micro movement at the hub which then carried through the frame and sounded like it was the cockpit. I was quite surprised because I didn't expect the problem to be all the way at the back wheel
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Look like I got quite a big gap between frame and fork on my gr201 (using kugellager bearings and lexon unox handlebar). If i watch others with this combination they have a lot less room between fork and frame. I have some creaks when im out of the saddle, maybe this is also a reason?
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Look like I got quite a big gap between frame and fork on my gr201 (using kugellager bearings and lexon unox handlebar). If i watch others with this combination they have a lot less room between fork and frame. I have some creaks when im out of the saddle, maybe this is also a reason?
looks about the same as mine
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I know that state bicycle does have one for their allroad which is using the same frame: https://www.statebicycle.com/products/carbon-all-road-v2-team-edition
I asked Eddy from Tideace if they have one, and he kindly offered to include it to my order, for free. But it can't be painted.
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Hi.
How long did you wait for the frame to be painted and shipped from Tan Tan?
I placed my order with Jessi on September 29 and still haven't received any information that the frame has been painted.
I'm starting to get worried.
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Hi.
How long did you wait for the frame to be painted and shipped from Tan Tan?
I placed my order with Jessi on September 29 and still haven't received any information that the frame has been painted.
I'm starting to get worried.
Hello,
you have to be patient. I placed my order with Vivian on September 15 and received the pictures of the frame and the tracking number on November 3. I guess it will take another two weeks.
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Hi.
How long did you wait for the frame to be painted and shipped from Tan Tan?
I placed my order with Jessi on September 29 and still haven't received any information that the frame has been painted.
I'm starting to get worried.
Took me around 3 weeks to get it painted, because they had some holiday in the spring.
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I'm thinking about buying this frame. Is it possible to mount a 46T chainring on a size 52 frame without any issues?
I'm also wondering what would be better for an all-road setup: a 42T chainring with a ZTTO 9–46 cassette or a 46T chainring with a 10–50 cassette?
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I'm thinking about buying this frame. Is it possible to mount a 46T chainring on a size 52 frame without any issues?
I'm also wondering what would be better for an all-road setup: a 42T chainring with a ZTTO 9–46 cassette or a 46T chainring with a 10–50 cassette?
You can definitely fit a 46 Chainring, I had a 46T Wolftooth chainring on an Magene Power meter crank but the chainline was not ideal.
I would recommend the 42T with 3mm offset combined with the 9-46 Cassette as this will give you a better chainline.
All this depends on your groupset, I don't like running ZTTO with SRAM or Shimano as the indexing is just not always perfect in all gears but if using one of the Chinese groupsets that will be great.
Im running GRX with 42T and 10-50 Cassette. I Live in a hilly area and never need anything smaller than the 10 or bigger than the 50. Even considering going to a 40T with 10-46 now as I seldom use the 10.
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You can definitely fit a 46 Chainring, I had a 46T Wolftooth chainring on an Magene Power meter crank but the chainline was not ideal.
I would recommend the 42T with 3mm offset combined with the 9-46 Cassette as this will give you a better chainline.
All this depends on your groupset, I don't like running ZTTO with SRAM or Shimano as the indexing is just not always perfect in all gears but if using one of the Chinese groupsets that will be great.
Im running GRX with 42T and 10-50 Cassette. I Live in a hilly area and never need anything smaller than the 10 or bigger than the 50. Even considering going to a 40T with 10-46 now as I seldom use the 10.
Thanks for the answer. I live in a hilly area too, but I'm probably a high speed fan, since right now I'm riding on roads (on another bike) with a Shimano 105 Di2 and 50/36 chainrings, 11-34 cassette and even the 50-11 combination it's not enough for me.
I'd like to make the GV201 an all-road bike, using it on road with one set of wheels and on gravel with another set. To do that, I'm searching for a good combination that could work on both situations.
I'm powerful enough to climb the steepest hills with a 42-44 combination on my actual gravel bike, though I probably find it easier with a 42-46 combination. That's why I'm looking the 9–46 cassettes, because I need high speed on downhills and preferably wide cassette for the steep hills.
A 44T or 46T chainring with a 10-50 cassette should be a good combination too, but at the cost of some weight... Though if it has to work better with the SRAM Rival XPLR rear derailleur than the 9-46, I'm all in.
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Thanks for the answer. I live in a hilly area too, but I'm probably a high speed fan, since right now I'm riding on roads (on another bike) with a Shimano 105 Di2 and 50/36 chainrings, 11-34 cassette and even the 50-11 combination it's not enough for me.
I'd like to make the GV201 an all-road bike, using it on road with one set of wheels and on gravel with another set. To do that, I'm searching for a good combination that could work on both situations.
I'm powerful enough to climb the steepest hills with a 42-44 combination on my actual gravel bike, though I probably find it easier with a 42-46 combination. That's why I'm looking the 9–46 cassettes, because I need high speed on downhills and preferably wide cassette for the steep hills.
A 44T or 46T chainring with a 10-50 cassette should be a good combination too, but at the cost of some weight... Though if it has to work better with the SRAM Rival XPLR rear derailleur than the 9-46, I'm all in.
The main reason for the 42T instead of 44T or 46T is the chainline, once you go larger than 42T you need to use a 0 offset chainring, this moves the chainring outwards by 3mm which gives you a lot of flex on the chain when on the big sprocket at the rear, it does work though just sounds quite bad and results in quicker chain and cassette replacements due to excessive wear.
A 42T with the 9-46 will be your go to, I'm just not sure about the gear pitch and which groupset its more suitable for. When you ask ZTTO they will tell you its compatible with both Shimano and Sram but when you look at the Shimano vs Sram the spacing is different between the gears so the ZTTO must match one or the other or they have sprockets spaced in a way to try compromise on both, either way you wont know till you get it. In the end again it will work but indexing wont ever be as good as Shimano/Shimano or Sram/Sram pairing.
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A 42T with the 9-46 will be your go
Which 9-46 (or 10-46) 13 speed cassette would you recommend? Thinking of swapping from my current 46T 11-50 for the chainline issue.
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I’ve finally decided to go 2x. After talking it through with some friends, we all concluded the same: 2x is the best option if I want to use the bike in both disciplines.
I’ll go for a SRAM Rival/Force AXS. I’m thinking about 160 mm rotors. Do you know which adapter I’ll need?
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The adapters are included with the brakes, nothing special.
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Which 9-46 (or 10-46) 13 speed cassette would you recommend? Thinking of swapping from my current 46T 11-50 for the chainline issue.
What groupset are you using?
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What groupset are you using?
Wheeltop GeX
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My GR201 🧨🚀🤤
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I want to install the new SRAM Rival AXS E1 crankset, but there’s no wide version available. Do you think a 45 mm chainline could cause any issues? I’m wondering if the chain might get too close to the frame or the rear tyre.
EDIT: I'm seeing that the Magene PES515 have a 44.25 chainline and since some of you are using that, I guess I'll be fine with 45.
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My frame has arrived.
(https://i.ibb.co/7JZ6jkF1/IMG20251121164320.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fYyPqD7x)
(https://i.ibb.co/cKrm1w7R/IMG20251121164334.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JWshKqM8)
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I've been lurking in this thread for a while and finally finished my build, so I thought I'd share my experience with this frame.
First of all, I sourced my frameset from LT bikes (longteng). Chose them because they had the best price and were willing to do custom paint for cheap. The frame took about a month from payment to arrive in the US. I ordered right before a week long Chinese holiday too, so it's usually quicker. Only negative things I have to say is that they did not provide an actual headset, which I paid extra for, they only provided the headset bearings and one of the paint colors I requested also didn't turn out the way it looked in a sample picture they sent me. I had the idea to do a tan/purple color scheme, but it turned out to be off-white.
Built it up with a Sram force axs XPLR groupset and an old fulcrum wheelset with Panracer GK tires. Whole assembly process went smoothly, axs electronic groupsets are very simple. Quality of the frame is really good, I'm impressed. Riding feels great, and I'll pick up some wider 45mm tires soon which should be better. Reach feels good too, I got the 58cm frame because I'm 6'3"/190cm and I don't feel too hunched over, but still aero enough. Total weight of the build is 20lbs/9kg.
I'll be using this for bikepacking/touring and trail riding in the future, which is why I got this particular frameset. The mounting points seem great for extra bags, bottles and racks. I thought the internal storage compartment was a cool idea, but it's much more tight than I thought it'd be, I think I'll just stash away an emergency tube in there. I included a picture with some of my touring gear mounted.
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Please help me out with the sizing of this frame, it's difficult for me to decide which size would be right for me.
If I choose the size 54, then all the sizes are perfect, but the reach is too long. To compensate this, I would need an 80 mm stem which is very short.
If I choose the size 52, the reach is fine with my originally used 100 mm stem, but the stack would be very low and I would need at least 30–40 mm of spacers, which I think wouldn’t look good.
For reference, I'm 178 cm tall and my inseam is 82 cm.
Which one do you think would be more ideal?
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Please help me out with the sizing of this frame, it's difficult for me to decide which size would be right for me.
If I choose the size 54, then all the sizes are perfect, but the reach is too long. To compensate this, I would need an 80 mm stem which is very short.
If I choose the size 52, the reach is fine with my originally used 100 mm stem, but the stack would be very low and I would need at least 30–40 mm of spacers, which I think wouldn’t look good.
For reference, I'm 178 cm tall and my inseam is 82 cm.
Which one do you think would be more ideal?
Hi there, I'm 180cm, same inseam. Got a size 54 with a Lexon 420/80 mm handlebar. All spacers installed. Works good for me, handling is stable on fast descents.
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Please help me out with the sizing of this frame, it's difficult for me to decide which size would be right for me.
If I choose the size 54, then all the sizes are perfect, but the reach is too long. To compensate this, I would need an 80 mm stem which is very short.
If I choose the size 52, the reach is fine with my originally used 100 mm stem, but the stack would be very low and I would need at least 30–40 mm of spacers, which I think wouldn’t look good.
For reference, I'm 178 cm tall and my inseam is 82 cm.
Which one do you think would be more ideal?
Probably a 54 frame with a 90 mm stem. It’s just a 1 cm difference and you’ll have good control while keeping the frame size you need.
If you feel the reach is too much, go with the 80 mm stem. As @Er7ik said, you’ll probably get good handling in almost any situation. You might miss a longer stem on some difficult technical trails, but not everyone rides that kind of terrain.
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Hi there, I'm 180cm, same inseam. Got a size 54 with a Lexon 420/80 mm handlebar. All spacers installed. Works good for me, handling is stable on fast descents.
Thank you for both replies. It's a very nice build, and the picture really helps with my decision. Based on the photo, the 80 mm stem doesn’t look “weird” at all. With that in mind, choosing the size 54 frame with an 80-90 mm stem might be the better option for me as well. I think I will move on with the ordering. (:
Thanks again for your help!
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TanTan GR201 size 52 with Lexon Unox 500-80mm handlebar and all spacers. 160mm crank. I'm 177 cm tall, inseam 83 cm.
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Please help me out with the sizing of this frame, it's difficult for me to decide which size would be right for me.
If I choose the size 54, then all the sizes are perfect, but the reach is too long. To compensate this, I would need an 80 mm stem which is very short.
If I choose the size 52, the reach is fine with my originally used 100 mm stem, but the stack would be very low and I would need at least 30–40 mm of spacers, which I think wouldn’t look good.
For reference, I'm 178 cm tall and my inseam is 82 cm.
Which one do you think would be more ideal?
I'm almost like you: 177 cm tall with 82.5 cm inseam. Having read all this thread and the same one on Weightweenies and after lots of doubts, I went for 54. Didn't receive it yet, the frame should arrive in a week or two. I also ordered a really cheap aluminum handlebar to try with different stems and may be get a bikefit before buying an integrated cockpit.
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You’re all very helpful. I think the two photos (from Er7ik and vdt) perfectly illustrate the answer. Both the 52 and 54 frames can work for this height, but with size 52 the position becomes very aggressive. In vdt’s photo you can clearly see that even with quite a lot of spacers there’s still a big height difference between the saddle and the handlebars. In Er7ik’s photo this difference isn’t as noticeable. Both builds are great, but I think I’m already too old for such an aggressive setup that the 52 frame gives you. ;D
What ultimately helped me make my decision was the fact that there’s only a 4 mm difference in reach between the 52 and 54 frames, which you can easily compensate with a slightly shorter stem. However, the stack difference is 20 mm, which is a huge jump, and 20 mm of spacers is very noticeable. This means that if you choose the larger frame, the bike won’t be significantly longer, but it will be much taller.
Anyway, I’ve ordered the 54 frame today, so now I’m waiting. :)
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TanTan GR201 size 52 with Lexon Unox 500-80mm handlebar and all spacers. 160mm crank. I'm 177 cm tall, inseam 83 cm.
Could you provide a list of the parts you used?
P.S I see you're from Vilnius :D
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Could you provide a list of the parts you used?
P.S I see you're from Vilnius :D
Frame: TanTan GR201, size 52, Pantone Warm Gray 5C Gloss
Handlebar: Lexon Unox 400/500-80mm + included computer mount
Brifters: Shimano ST-R7170-R + ST-R7170-L
Derailleur: Shimano RD-M6250-SGS
Cassette: Shimano CS-M6100 12s 10-51T
Chain: Shimano CN-M8100
Bottom bracket: TOKEN BB47V29
Crank: Leese LSE-PRO, 160mm + 110BCD 4 bolt spider
Chainring: Pass Quest R110-DU 38T
Pedals: XT PD-M8100
Wheels: Easedon 33x40mm Hookless, UD Matte, TB2015(Round), Standard Weight, MS
Brake calipers: Shimano BR-R8170
Brake rotors: Galfer Wave Fixed MTB CL 160mm
Tires: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro 50mm (rear), Thunder Burts 2.1 (front)
Saddle: GOLDIX 3D
Bottle cages: HUALONG Carbon Side Load
Total weight (as pictured but without lights and Garmin): 9 kg
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Now with full length PDW 55s. Winter is coming! :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54806506436_54091522fc_c.jpg)
Do you have a link for the mud guards?
Thank you :)
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I'm getting some annoying vibration on the front while braking with the front brake.
I've also checked it at home and there seems to be some small play between the fork tube and the head tube that I cannot get rid of.
When I overtighten the top cap bolt, I do feel some slight improvement, but I still feel the vibrations, plus getting the preload to 6-7nm doesn't seem like a very smart long term solution for the fork's health.
Could it have something to do with the headset bearings (all stuff from Tantan)? Did anybody have a similar issue?
I can confirm I've solved this issue by changing the integrated cockpit with another brand.
The issue was 100% related to the stock C-ring that came with the Tantan aero cockpit.
Thanks again to you guys who gave me the correct advice about it.
For the new one, I didn't go with the Lexon gravel bars (which are popular around here) since I didn't like the huge flare.
Instead I went for the Rpantahi (still flared, but just a couple CMs) since it got a lot of positive feedback from other riders in my cycling club.
The price was quite good (around 90 euro) the quality imo was slightly better than the Tantan one, and so far it has proven to be rock solid even on light MTB routes.
The Rpantahi came with two different C-rings, one was plastic with a few holes and one was made out of metal with the classic C shape. I've risked it with the metallic one, but I guess the quality on this one is higher since this time I had no tolerance issues.
I've had it for more than a month, but I only wanted to give a feedback after I was sure about its quality.
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Instead I went for the Rpantahi (still flared, but just a couple CMs) since it got a lot of positive feedback from other riders in my cycling club.
Link for this one? Looked for one but only found ones without flare.
Thanks!
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GV201-Tideacebike Discount code for GV201 of tideacebike.
Five years warranty, Free shipping.
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Link for this one? Looked for one but only found ones without flare.
Thanks!
There are two versions as far as I know, they do have some designs differences (main one being the method used for the computer mount attachment, 2 bolts vs 1)
- https://a.aliexpress.com/_EywGdMU
- https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIL2jYM
I got the first one. They both have a 2cm flare between hoods and drops. I don't think it is always mentioned, so at the time I got the info from the guys already using it at my cycling club.
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Does anyone run a GRX 1x setup with a Magene PES P515 powermeter? I'm going for this frame and just sourcing all other components. I'm a little bit confused, as sometimes an offset is mentioned to improve the chainline. I'm not sure if I just can get this chainring https://pq-bike.com/products/pass-quest-r110bcd-round-road-bike-narrow-wide-chainring-36t-58t-bike-chainwheel-ultegra-r7000-r8000-da9100-1?variant=36519305150626 or if I will run into problems?
And related to the frame, does a 44T chainring fit?
EDIT: Seems some guys in here have a 44T chainring, however no GRX setup, hope it has a neglectable impact. I want to go for 44T and 11-51 cassette
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
@jaypayne05 Frame looks great - what colour code was that?
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I want to say Eddy is the man if you need a bike frame. I ordered my frame on the 3rd of March and it was painted and shipped on Monday and I got it on Wednesday. If that’s not fast service I don’t know what is. Total 16 days from ordering it to my door.
Looking at this frame... Where did you get the frame protectors?
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Does anyone run a GRX 1x setup with a Magene PES P515 powermeter? I'm going for this frame and just sourcing all other components. I'm a little bit confused, as sometimes an offset is mentioned to improve the chainline. I'm not sure if I just can get this chainring https://pq-bike.com/products/pass-quest-r110bcd-round-road-bike-narrow-wide-chainring-36t-58t-bike-chainwheel-ultegra-r7000-r8000-da9100-1?variant=36519305150626 or if I will run into problems?
And related to the frame, does a 44T chainring fit?
EDIT: Seems some guys in here have a 44T chainring, however no GRX setup, hope it has a neglectable impact. I want to go for 44T and 11-51 cassette
I think you will have no problem with the 44T chainring, although the chainline you get with the Magene crankset may need to be adjusted a few millimetres with spacers.
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I’ve just received my frame and started building it with Magene P515 cranks and Wuzei 44T chainring with 3 mm offset. Even having a 1 mm spacer on the drive side the gap between the chainring and the frame is extremely narrow, less than 1 mm.
What do you think, is it okay to ride like this, or should I add another spacer (is it safe?) or get another chainring?
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I’ve just received my frame and started building it with Magene P515 cranks and Wuzei 44T chainring with 3 mm offset. Even having a 1 mm spacer on the drive side the gap between the chainring and the frame is extremely narrow, less than 1 mm.
What do you think, is it okay to ride like this, or should I add another spacer (is it safe?) or get another chainring?
I actually don’t have experience with a chainring this close but it’s just a bit of gravel or mud away from starting to eat into the paint. I’d add another.
This also kind of makes me consider a zero offset chainring if I go the 1xMagene route and live with the chainline.
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I’ve just received my frame and started building it with Magene P515 cranks and Wuzei 44T chainring with 3 mm offset. Even having a 1 mm spacer on the drive side the gap between the chainring and the frame is extremely narrow, less than 1 mm.
What do you think, is it okay to ride like this, or should I add another spacer (is it safe?) or get another chainring?
What does it look like with a chain on it? My guess is that the chain will not even be able to get in there, will rub, or be very close to rubbing.
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Just got my Longteng GV201 frame. Currently in process of building it up.
I designed a cover for the front derailleur mount for those going 1x. If you have access to a 3d printer you can make one yourself.
Link to Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7220748
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We got the part available and in stock.
https://tideacebike.com/collections/bike-accessories/products/gv201-front-derailleur-cover-plate
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I actually don’t have experience with a chainring this close but it’s just a bit of gravel or mud away from starting to eat into the paint. I’d add another.
I'm not sure that 1 mm more space will be enough. How much clearance is considered to be safe?
This also kind of makes me consider a zero offset chainring if I go the 1xMagene route and live with the chainline.
Many people don't have problems here, even with 46T chainrings, but my case is different, which is strange. This is my first build, may be I did something wrong, but I don't understand what exactly. I would be very grateful if someone could tell me. I put a 1 mm spacer on the shaft between a nut that holds a power meter and a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket model is Token BB47V24, installed without any spacers.
What does it look like with a chain on it? My guess is that the chain will not even be able to get in there, will rub, or be very close to rubbing.
The chain doesn't go here. It's the left side of the chainring if you look from the drive side.
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I'm not sure that 1 mm more space will be enough. How much clearance is considered to be safe?
Many people don't have problems here, even with 46T chainrings, but my case is different, which is strange. This is my first build, may be I did something wrong, but I don't understand what exactly. I would be very grateful if someone could tell me. I put a 1 mm spacer on the shaft between a nut that holds a power meter and a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket model is Token BB47V24, installed without any spacers.
The chain doesn't go here. It's the left side of the chainring if you look from the drive side.
I also don't have a lot of space with a 42t, It mainly depends on the cranks and chainring configuration. I also had to put a spacer.
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I'm not sure that 1 mm more space will be enough. How much clearance is considered to be safe?
Many people don't have problems here, even with 46T chainrings, but my case is different, which is strange. This is my first build, may be I did something wrong, but I don't understand what exactly. I would be very grateful if someone could tell me. I put a 1 mm spacer on the shaft between a nut that holds a power meter and a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket model is Token BB47V24, installed without any spacers.
The chain doesn't go here. It's the left side of the chainring if you look from the drive side.
Now I see it. I thought I was looking at the downtube clearance when it's the chainstay instead.
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I'm not sure that 1 mm more space will be enough. How much clearance is considered to be safe?
Many people don't have problems here, even with 46T chainrings, but my case is different, which is strange. This is my first build, may be I did something wrong, but I don't understand what exactly. I would be very grateful if someone could tell me. I put a 1 mm spacer on the shaft between a nut that holds a power meter and a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket model is Token BB47V24, installed without any spacers.
The chain doesn't go here. It's the left side of the chainring if you look from the drive side.
Ive a 44t (3mm offset) on 24mm spindle with xcaday powermeter, I needed to add 3mm spacer on drive side to have a sufficient gap for clearing chainstay. Pasquest make chain ring 110 bcd 0 offset chainring, maybe thats one to consider for needing less spacers.
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Ive a 44t (3mm offset) on 24mm spindle with xcaday powermeter, I needed to add 3mm spacer on drive side to have a sufficient gap for clearing chainstay. Pasquest make chain ring 110 bcd 0 offset chainring, maybe thats one to consider for needing less spacers.
Yes, I’ve already ordered the Passquest chainring. It’s just strange that other people managed to squeeze 46T with offset using very little spacers. Maybe something changed in frame geometry.
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Yes, I’ve already ordered the Passquest chainring. It’s just strange that other people managed to squeeze 46T with offset using very little spacers. Maybe something changed in frame geometry.
I think they use a direct mount chainring with 0 offset than, that whay you gain again some mm
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Hi everyone. I received my frame from Long Teng, everything looked good, except that the seatpost was quite loose in the seattube, I can drop it in the seattube, there is no friction. And when holding it by hand without clamping it i can rock it slightly. When fastened it did feel tight though. Should i be worried about this?
I was wondering how this was with your frames. Thanks.
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Hi everyone. I received my frame from Long Teng, everything looked good, except that the seatpost was quite loose in the seattube, I can drop it in the seattube, there is no friction. And when holding it by hand without clamping it i can rock it slightly. When fastened it did feel tight though. Should i be worried about this?
I was wondering how this was with your frames. Thanks.
It's not that uncommon with carbon seatposts vs carbon frames.
Did you try already with carbon paste? I wouldn't make an assessment until you tried that (which is normal practice anyway)
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I put my order for a GV201 in on Black Friday. Now I'm thinking through my build components. I'm thinking about a wide range 2X setup using Shimano Cues, but the Cues brakes apparently are designed to only work with 160mm rotors and the frame is for 140mm rotors. Usually a brake set comes with a mount plate that can adapt to either but the Cues does not come with that adapter and I'm not sure if those are standardized or unique to the frame and/or brakes.
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It's not that uncommon with carbon seatposts vs carbon frames.
Did you try already with carbon paste? I wouldn't make an assessment until you tried that (which is normal practice anyway)
Thanks. I tried that and that indeed made the fit snug, it felt normal then, couldn't rock it anymore, even when not clamped down. So non issue then i suppose.. Do you know if the loose fitting seatpost is by design? With other carbon frames and round seatposts i worked on the seatpost fit snug without carbon paste.
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Thanks. I tried that and that indeed made the fit snug, it felt normal then, couldn't rock it anymore, even when not clamped down. So non issue then i suppose.. Do you know if the loose fitting seatpost is by design? With other carbon frames and round seatposts i worked on the seatpost fit snug without carbon paste.
No I don't think so, maybe it's just a combination between the seatpost and/or the seat tube being minimally out of tolerance.
But it's a fairly known thing with carbon bikes in general, so I wouldn't put it against this bike specifically, at least for this type of issue.
Make sure to check the situation again after the first few rides though, as it's also not that unusual to get the seatpost slipping mid ride due to the clamping bolt getting slightly looser (never happened to me to be fair).
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I put my order for a GV201 in on Black Friday. Now I'm thinking through my build components. I'm thinking about a wide range 2X setup using Shimano Cues, but the Cues brakes apparently are designed to only work with 160mm rotors and the frame is for 140mm rotors. Usually a brake set comes with a mount plate that can adapt to either but the Cues does not come with that adapter and I'm not sure if those are standardized or unique to the frame and/or brakes.
You can run 160mm rotors on the GV201.
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@jaypayne05 Frame looks great - what colour code was that?
Color was Number 47 glossy. This is the link to the frame protector https://a.co/d/8HwFwoo
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I put my order for a GV201 in on Black Friday. Now I'm thinking through my build components. I'm thinking about a wide range 2X setup using Shimano Cues, but the Cues brakes apparently are designed to only work with 160mm rotors and the frame is for 140mm rotors. Usually a brake set comes with a mount plate that can adapt to either but the Cues does not come with that adapter and I'm not sure if those are standardized or unique to the frame and/or brakes.
The flat mount 140 to 160 adapters are standard. 160mm works on this frame perfectly.
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new picture from the build
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I can confirm I've solved this issue by changing the integrated cockpit with another brand.
The issue was 100% related to the stock C-ring that came with the Tantan aero cockpit.
Thanks again to you guys who gave me the correct advice about it.
For the new one, I didn't go with the Lexon gravel bars (which are popular around here) since I didn't like the huge flare.
Instead I went for the Rpantahi (still flared, but just a couple CMs) since it got a lot of positive feedback from other riders in my cycling club.
The price was quite good (around 90 euro) the quality imo was slightly better than the Tantan one, and so far it has proven to be rock solid even on light MTB routes.
The Rpantahi came with two different C-rings, one was plastic with a few holes and one was made out of metal with the classic C shape. I've risked it with the metallic one, but I guess the quality on this one is higher since this time I had no tolerance issues.
I've had it for more than a month, but I only wanted to give a feedback after I was sure about its quality.
Could you post a link to the C rings?
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For anyone interested, I mailed Tantan. These are the Torque values for the GR201
handlebar=8-10nm
saddle clamp=4-5NM
seatpost clamp=8-10NM
rear hanger=3NM
Bottle cage hole=3NM
thru axle =9-13NM
headset expander=8-10NM
I wish I had read the replies that followed this info from Tantan. I cracked my Cane Creek eeSilk+ carbon suspension seatpost taking the clamp torque to 8nm. Bummer. I suppose it can cost a lot to learn.
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Finally collected my wheels from the wheel builder today so managed to get the whole thing complete. A couple of laps around the estate and everything seems fine. Will get a proper ride in on Sunday. Currently have it set up with 35mm road tyres.
Love the way it looks and feels so far 🤩
Are you using the stock tideace headset bearings with the original lexon unox c-ring, topcone and spacers? i am not sure if i should go for the FSA ACR headset in combo with the lexon cockpit. also not sure if the metal or plastic c-ring will work better. looking forward hearing from you :)
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Lexon uses no ACR spacer so it will not fit an FSA ACR headset
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Ice crack pink.
🚴♂️💥 Just built up my new Tideace GV201 Pink Ice Crack Gravel Frame last week, and I’m seriously impressed! 🙌
The whole process was seamless from start to finish. The team was great to work with via email, and they even sent me a sample of the custom color I described before I confirmed the order. Super helpful! 🎨✨
The frame feels solid and high-quality – I could tell right away that this is a top-tier product. It shipped with everything I needed for a frameset: headset, bearings, axles, and even cable guides. Everything was in perfect condition. 🔧🔩
And let's talk about the ride – it’s amazing! The bike handles beautifully, and the paintjob is flawless for the price. It honestly looks better than I expected, especially with this custom finish! 😍🚴♂️
Delivery time was right on point, exactly as quoted. Much faster and cheaper than buying a bare carbon frame and getting it painted locally. Can’t recommend this enough! 🚀
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It definitly does fit, i am 100% sure.
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Recently just built up my Tideace GR201 that I ordered in April.
Gotta say, never thought I'd have so much fun and ease building up a bike. Everything went smooth from ordering to delivery and build, no missing parts, no out of spec parts, etc.
BB installation was flawless, could screw it in both of the sides with my fingers and brakes required no facing at all both the front ant rear, guiding cables was a breeze too.
Frame itself feels solid and nice geometry that is on the more racy side of things, to me it's like my Tarmac SL7, but with 50mm tyres. I got it in the White chameleon color with black insides of forks/chainstays and in the sun, which unfortunately we don't have much anymore looks amazing! Everyone is complimenting this color lol.
I built it up with SRAM Rival AXS XPLR 13s, only changed cranks to Force for those sweet 300g savings. Chainring is 46T which is a placeholder for now, as I plan on switching it to aero chainring instead.
For wheels I used Elite Gravel Aero+ with 32 IW/40IW and they pair just perfectly with Schwalbe G-One RX Pro tyres in 50mm. Quick on asphalt and blazing fast on gravel & mud which we have plenty of right now, my friends with Tufo Thundero are having hard time on the mud haha.
For handlebar I used Lexon Unox in 38cm and 80mm stem, installation was easy with default hardware, no gaps or play even after 400km of hard riding, beautiful bar, for the price I'd say it's amazing.
As far the fit goes I ordered 56 frame and my height is 187cm, 895mm inseam and it fits well, will drop 2 of the spacers in the coming months as I feel quite upright on it compared to Tarmac. If you're coming from a road bike, I recommend getting shorter stem for this bike as the top tube is quite long compared to the race road bikes.
Overall I am pleased with the communication with Eddy and their paint technician's work, would order again and I recommend this frame to anybody who wants to build up their bike to have something unique.
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Beautiful build! i go for the same groupset with 46t chainring (aleary bought aero one from garbaruk) so my question if the 46t fits is answered :)
Are you using the plastic C-Ring from the Lexon Bar which came with the other spacers?
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Beautiful build! i go for the same groupset with 46t chainring (aleary bought aero one from garbaruk) so my question if the 46t fits is answered :)
Are you using the plastic C-Ring from the Lexon Bar which came with the other spacers?
Thanks! And yeah, I'm using plastic C-ring that came with the bar.
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Thank you so much :) will share a pic of my build once the frame (finally) arived :)
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Did you guys pay customs for shipping to USA from tideace? Looks like shipping is included in the price via UPS.
Free Shipping（5-15 Working Days）
Shipped the frame by UPS(USA,AU, etc), EU Country by DPD.
FREE
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Did you guys pay customs for shipping to USA from tideace? Looks like shipping is included in the price via UPS.
Free Shipping（5-15 Working Days）
Shipped the frame by UPS(USA,AU, etc), EU Country by DPD.
FREE
We shipped to USA by UPS with pre-paid custom tax shipping.
No extra cost.
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eddy - best man :D
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With all of the information here I think I settled on this frame (instead of carbonda 696). Overall, I think I would prefer something slightly lighter, but this looks great with the pocket and overall
I'm deciding on the size. I'm 182/183, with an 83 inseam. I think 540 is the right frame (wondering if 520, but curious if you folks have any opinions). I understand that 540 has stand over between 79.5-82. my bike fitter in the past recommended 78-79 of top tube clearance/stand over.
Gemini insists on 560 with 7cm stem. because of the higher stack.
I currently have Fuji Roubaix 1.1 2018 size 56 with with a 90mm stem.(+7degrees) which seems to have a stand over around 77cm.
When comparing the dimensions it seems closer to 520 than 540?
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Hello, I have a problem with the steering head bearing. It has too much play. Even though everything is secured, it can be moved back and forth with a lot of play. The Lexon Unox is installed. I hope I didn't do anything wrong during installation. Both bearings are in place and there is a metal ring on the upper bearing that looks like a “C.”
(https://i.ibb.co/qMGyP6fR/Lexon.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cc5g7qHN)
(https://i.ibb.co/rKHb9dz5/Lexon1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PsgTkDP1)
(https://i.ibb.co/Ndyy6GYy/Lexon2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mVccCPzc)
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Here is another picture from above.
(https://i.ibb.co/LhC7HWT1/Lexon3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Pz5H0n2g)
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a) Use the plastic C ring
b) It looks like the steerer is not cut low enough so you cannot compress the headset with the handlebar.
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a) Use the plastic C ring
b) It looks like the steerer is not cut low enough so you cannot compress the headset with the handlebar.
Thank you, I will try it with the Kusntoff C ring. However, I think it was too high. OK, if necessary, I will have to cut off a little more. Thank you for your help.
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You can also add a normal round 3 or 5mm spacer on top of the handlebar and use a standard top cap to achieve proper compression until you can get the fork cut.
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there has to be a gap of at least 3-4 mm between top cap and expander. you need to cut again or use another lexon spacer under the stem or a rounded spacer above the stem.
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My stupid question for the day: Is that gap between the Lexon dustcap and your bearing just there to show the bearing and plastic ring in place? Also, you need the pinchbolts loose when you tighten down the top cap to pretension the bearings. But you probably know that. I also thought carbon steerers need to be cut higher, so the pinch bolts align with the compression sleeve inside.
I just received my frame yesterday but my Lexon bar is still awaiting a flight from China so I'm thinking this through myself.
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Do you have a link for the mud guards?
Thank you :)
Apologies for not replying sooner, but I haven't been visiting the board regularly.
They're Portland Design Works 55 mm full metal fenders. Expensive, but very high quality.
https://ridepdw.com/products/full-metal-fenders-700x55
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They're Portland Design Works 55 mm full metal fenders. Expensive, but very high quality.
https://ridepdw.com/products/full-metal-fenders-700x55
I just put the same 700x55 fenders on my LT GV201 running 48c Thunderos. It's tedious, but worth it. For the seat stay bridge I used the Specialized fender bridge part #S182200001 that clamps around the seattube.
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Thanks for your help. I managed to fix it with the Lexon handlebar. It really was just the C-ring. I've now installed the plastic one and everything fits perfectly. I didn't have to recut the fork.
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I just put the same 700x55 fenders on my LT GV201 running 48c Thunderos. It's tedious, but worth it. For the seat stay bridge I used the Specialized fender bridge part #S182200001 that clamps around the seattube.
Lovely looking bike. Love that mauve colour with the golden bolts.
I hunted high and low for a suitable bridge solution, but didn’t come across that one. I’m currently using a strip of rubber off a Garmin handlebar mount taped to the top of the mudguard blade to prevent it from knocking against the seat stays, which works well, but I think your mount is a more elegant solution.
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Thanks for your help. I managed to fix it with the Lexon handlebar. It really was just the C-ring. I've now installed the plastic one and everything fits perfectly. I didn't have to recut the fork.
It’s always the same. You cannot compress the metal c ring so if it’s not 100% true the fork will wobble around. The plastic one ca be compressed. The only exception are metal c ring where you have a little cut like in crown races so they can work under compression.
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I've got the Tideace frame and the Lenox handlebar.
I've used the bearings and the metal C-ring that comes with the Lenox handlebar and got a little bit of play (1 or 2 mm). Do you know how can I fix it? Using the plastic C-ring?
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I've got the Tideace frame and the Lenox handlebar.
I've used the bearings and the metal C-ring that comes with the Lenox handlebar and got a little bit of play (1 or 2 mm). Do you know how can I fix it? Using the plastic C-ring?
yet that should do the trick.
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Finished my Tideace Noah today :)
Sram Rival xplr 13-speed with Force cassette and garbaruk 46t Aero Chainring.
Lexon Unox Cockpit (100-380/480)
Thunderburts 2.1
Just rode 2 km but it feels so fast!!
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yet that should do the trick.
This definitely fixed it. Thanks!
I'll take more and better photos later, but this will give you a glimpse of the paint quality on the Noah I received.
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Here’s a photo of my GV-201.
Built with wheels/group set from my old gravel bike.
-Lexon Thinline Bars (cracked them so any warranty/contact info anyone can share would be appreciated)
-Bontrager Wheels w/ 25mm internal width
-Victoria T30’s 55c in the front, 50c rear
-GRX 2x11 w/ 50/34 PassQuest Rings and 11-34 cassette
-Rotor crank, Power2Max PM
The bike has been awesome, other than cracking my bars…
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cracked while riding or what happened?
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cracked while riding or what happened?
Took a hit to the rear wheel on a square edge while riding some rocky ST. The hit was transmitted thru the whole bike but I was under the impression whatever damage occurred, would be localized to the rear wheel... Finished said ride and noticed the damage while standing around after. I wanna say it was a fluke, as the bars have been great in the 1k miles prior…
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Okay! I read in another user's post that his Lexon cockpit cracked in the same spot, so I wanted to ask. I was unsure whether the top cap could also be the culprit if it's overtightened. I've noticed with my Lexon cockpit that the top cap that came with it just isn't 100% designed for this cockpit. You're only supposed to tighten it to 1-2 Nm, otherwise it presses too hard on the handlebars and damages the paint.
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My Lexon unox gravelbar was also cracked (I allready deinstalled it and put on normal bar and stem cuz I couldnt get the Unox creakfree). I wanted to sell them and then noticed a crack by the pinch bolts..
I contacted them on aliexpress and they are willing to send a new one for 50 dollars. So if anyone wants one to try for cheap let me know ;)
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On the bottom just the bearing, the fork has an integrated crown race. On the top only bearing, then plastic C ring and the top cover.
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Thanks!
Another (hopefully the last) question: I plan to install on the rear and front 160mm brake discs. Do I need 140->160mm adapters?
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Yes, you need them
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My Lexon unox gravelbar was also cracked (I allready deinstalled it and put on normal bar and stem cuz I couldnt get the Unox creakfree). I wanted to sell them and then noticed a crack by the pinch bolts..
I contacted them on aliexpress and they are willing to send a new one for 50 dollars. So if anyone wants one to try for cheap let me know ;)
what size and where are you based outta. My little island paradise doesn't get many shops that will ship to here lol
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My Lexon unox gravelbar was also cracked (I allready deinstalled it and put on normal bar and stem cuz I couldnt get the Unox creakfree). I wanted to sell them and then noticed a crack by the pinch bolts..
I contacted them on aliexpress and they are willing to send a new one for 50 dollars. So if anyone wants one to try for cheap let me know ;)
how did you crack that shit? i hope mine is not cracking in the near future...
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Still have some troubles with the fork. My understanding is, that the open side of the the bearing is on the top. If I place it like that, I have a big gap between fork and frame. If I place it with the open side to the bottom, the gap is gone. Which way is right?
Edit: Ok, based on other pictures the assembly shown in my picture is wrong. I'm wondering however why in some bike build up videos on youtube it is the other way?
just a little thought-provoking impulse. Why should the angled part part of the bearing be on top, when it fits perfect when pointing down?
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Ah i see i'm not the only one with a cracked Lexon bar :/
Switched to the full Deda system: no regrets. Didn't have to retight my headset at all and no creaking noise. 10/10 would recommend lol
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what size and where are you based outta. My little island paradise doesn't get many shops that will ship to here lol
Shipping from Europe, but maybe I can get aliexpress get it to ship somewhere directly
I think I can choose the size freely, so..
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how did you crack that shit? i hope mine is not cracking in the near future...
I really dont know, when I installed the new bar and stem I saw the crack...
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Ah i see i'm not the only one with a cracked Lexon bar :/
Switched to the full Deda system: no regrets. Didn't have to retight my headset at all and no creaking noise. 10/10 would recommend lol
Same here, went to a deda stem. Much more sturdy
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Have any of you covered your bike with PPF foil? Where can I buy cut foil patterns for our GR201?
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Have any of you covered your bike with PPF foil? Where can I buy cut foil patterns for our GR201?
I've used the Zefal Skin Guard.
Just need to make sure to pick the right version based on the frame painting (matte or gloss)
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At first, I thought my Lexon cockpit only had a paint scratch and that I might have accidentally scratched it with a tool during installation. Unfortunately, the crack grew further within a week, even though I only rode 4 km on tarmac just in my village to a friends house.
Lexon is offering me a new cockpit for 50 USD but I'm absolutely not interested anymore and am currently trying to get my money back... I'll let you know if I succeed.
I've now ordered the SPAD ARX from Panda Podium and hope that this cockpit will be worth its $300.
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Ah i see i'm not the only one with a cracked Lexon bar :/
Switched to the full Deda system: no regrets. Didn't have to retight my headset at all and no creaking noise. 10/10 would recommend lol
What happened to you? Why is your cockpit broken?
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I still haven't had any issues (so far) with the Rpantahi integrated handlebar that I bought to replace the stock Tantan one, if anyone is looking around for other brands.
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Sooo.... 1600 km with this frame which include 2x 220 km rides
It is my main long distance bike now, but for some reason I'm thinking about going full back on XC as a ,,do it all,, since that was always my way before this project
what handle bar is that and do you have a link to it? How do you like it?
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What happened to you? Why is your cockpit broken?
Posted the picture some pages back, post #922
TLDR: Did a wheelie one day, heard a faint "pop/crack" sound thinking it was just a creak coming from the seatpost or saddle and discovered a light hairline scratch on the side at the stem.
Already had some issues with headset play and the bar rotating sometimes. Didn't want to risk it any longer and swapped the whole thing.
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I am totally happy with the original tantan handlebar. Used it in combination with the original Deda 45x45 compression ring (thanks to post #922). Nice fit and no more rattling. Might file it down 1mm for a perfect fit.
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Is there anyone here who has used the Lexon plastic C-ring with an FSA ACR Topcone? I've heard that with the FSA ACR metal C-ring, just like with the Lexon metal C-ring, it's possible that you can't completely eliminate bearing play. I'd like to use the Lexon plastic C-ring with the FSA ACR Topcone.
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FSA ACR c ring worked totally fine for me because its much better quality in terms of tolerance
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FSA ACR c ring worked totally fine for me because its much better quality in terms of tolerance
may i ask you what handlebar/cockpit you are using?
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may i ask you what handlebar/cockpit you are using?
I was using the Speeder Cycling cockpit for FSA ACR
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Thank you!
Did you also use the bearing race under the lower bearing? Or did you just place the bearing directly onto the fork steerer tube?
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Based on the earlier posts I ordered a Lexon handlebar (still in transit). With all the cracked Lexon bars, in this topic only, I'll return them and get the Yoeleo bar.
Great to see all real world experiences here!
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Please send it back! There seems to be a major quality control problem at Lexon. If you get a good cockpit, it's great; if you get a faulty one, you just lose money.
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Another lexon crack here.
Sent them pics and getting a replacement for $60, hopefully that one is better
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Thank you!
Did you also use the bearing race under the lower bearing? Or did you just place the bearing directly onto the fork steerer tube?
The frame has an integrated crown race for 45 degree bearing so you can only use the upper part of the FSA ACR headset.
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Thanks for the info. So, bottom bearing, top bearing, C-ring and top cone including spacers from FSA ACR?
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Another lexon crack here.
Sent them pics and getting a replacement for $60, hopefully that one is better
i would never accept their offer. they also offered me a new cockpit for USD 50,-
never ever again a chinese cockpit from aliexpress.
go to panda podium website and buy a quality one there
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Thanks for the info. So, bottom bearing, top bearing, C-ring and top cone including spacers from FSA ACR?
No, for bottom a 52x40x7 45/45 bearing. The FSA will not fit as it uses 36/45 degree.
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oh okey, so i can use the tideace stock bottom bearing and the fasa top bearing?
sounds weird cause one of my friends told me he built up the bike with both bearings from FSA which came with the ACT Nr.55r Headset... maybe that is the reason why there is play?
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Yes, the 36 degree FSA bearing does not fit well on a 45 degree crown race ;)
I would change the delivered quality unknown bearing against a higher quality one.
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okey, any recommendation? thnks for your help
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Sorry for all the messages, but I just want everything to work perfectly and be installed correctly.
So, I'm using the original FSA bearing at the top. And at the bottom, I'm using the 52x40x7 45/45.
If I use the bearing with the larger angle at the bottom, do I also use the Race bearing, or is the bearing with the larger angle also mounted directly onto the steerer tube?
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Fork: 45/45 52x40x7 bearing (see pic attached for illustration of which way up the bearing should be installed)
Headset: use FSA ACR you mentioned.
Hope this helps.
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Thank you Simo and everyone else! You helped me a lot :)
So i already ordered the FSA ACR No.55r. And will order the bigger angled 45 degree bottom bearing.
If there is any recommandation for a good 45/45 52x40x7 bearing - just let me know - thanks 8)
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Thank you Simo and everyone else! You helped me a lot :)
So i already ordered the FSA ACR No.55r. And will order the bigger angled 45 degree bottom bearing.
If there is any recommandation for a good 45/45 52x40x7 bearing - just let me know - thanks 8)
I'm in the UK and use this company.
https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/mh-p16-steel-black-oxide-stainless-steel-hybrid-ceramic-super-light-slt-40-x-52-x-7-45-45/
I'd always get stainless steel or SLT.
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For other countries you can get it at Kugellager Shop. 45/45 is the most common standard for bearings.
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Thanks a lot guys 🙌🏻
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For other countries you can get it at Kugellager Shop. 45/45 is the most common standard for bearings.
these are the ones to look out for:
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
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Given the Lexon bar issues on many guys; what is now the most recommended gravel handlebar?
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The speeder cycling is also a nice bar for this frame. The acr headset gives a nice flush finish with the top cap w/o any gap.
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Given the Lexon bar issues on many guys; what is now the most recommended gravel handlebar?
i ordered the SPAD ARX from panda podium. will let you know once it's installed and tested.
https://www.pandapodium.cc/product/spad-arx-carbon-integrated-handlebar/
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these are the ones to look out for:
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
another question....why is tideace sending both bearings with 36 degrees?
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They should be 45/45 degree
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okey but both? sorry for my misunderstanding but i don't get it. why would tideace send the "wrong" bearings? or is it just a fail to send the 36 degree. should they send one with 36 and one with 45?
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The send 45/45 degree because its the most common standard. Only FSA ACR and Deda ICR systems are using 45/36 degree bearings as far as I know. So you have to use their headsets anyway. Most 1-piece-handlebars are using C rings for 45 degree bearings so Tideace and Tantan are sending 45/45 bearings for top and bottom.
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okey, got it! but in my case using the FSA ACR No55r headset i am using the FSA 36 on top with the FSA c-ring and the 45 i ordered for the fork?
Sorry...should be my last question..
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attached the headset i ordered. so i am using it like in the image. only the lower bearing on the fork i switch to the 45/45?
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Yes, you will use only top bearing including c ring and cover.
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thanks :)
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I just want to leave a side note here to all people getting fear mongered with bad bars: do not discard bad installment. Carbon must be be attentivly installed with regards to Torque to spec, much else use appropriate carbos paste and be observed.
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My framestorage cover rattles a lot when there is a bottle on it, anybody has a solution for that?
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My framestorage cover rattles a lot when there is a bottle on it, anybody has a solution for that?
Gorilla / insulation tape.
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Just came across the pictures of my build and want to share it.
It is already 5 months ago, I finished it and love it since ever. Such a smooth ride! Thanks to the forum for the support and inspiration!
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I bought LT’s GV201. I’m impressed with the frame and the quality of the paint and the overall build. FYI, I installed Ritchey’s WCS Switch headset (internal routing) and fits perfectly on this frame.
Unfortunately, the geometry didn’t work for me, so I’m posting it for sale :(
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Is there a protector mounted underneath the bottom bracket?
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Is there a protector mounted underneath the bottom bracket?
Yes sir! I installed that one myself. It’s one from Trek. Perfect fit. If interested in specifics, it is called “Trek 2021 Procaliber 29 Downtube Armor”.
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My GR201 frame has also arrived, so the build can finally begin!
I know this topic has been covered a million times, but I’d appreciate some help regarding the headset.
I’m planning to use the stock Tantan integrated handlebar along with the provided headset.
I’ve read that I should avoid the aluminum compression ring because it can cause the fork to wobble. However, I’d rather not spend €50 on an FSA or Deda headset since I’ve already paid for the Tantan one. Is it possible to just swap the compression ring for something else (like a plastic one) to keep the fork stable? If so, could you recommend one (perhaps something available on AliExpress)?
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A new headset will not solve the issue as the Tantan uses proprietary spacers. I dont think there is any other C ring available that will fit this handlebar.
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I used the deda dcr 45x45 nylon compression ring as I metioned some posts above. Works great. No rattling. The gap is about 2 mm. For me it is fine. You could also sand it down like 1mm then it is perfect.
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I have Tan Tan C ring. Replaced it with Grentin from Ali. Hade to make som spacers made from carbon 1.4 sheets of carbon. Copied with router.
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A few days ago, I ordered a frame with fork via WhatsApp from Tideace.
Everything went quickly and smoothly. I'm currently waiting for the frame to be painted and shipped.
The color is UD matte finish - raw carbon. ;)
BTW. Anyone bought wheel rims from XYZ carbon company? I'm looking for some topic on the forum, but don't find any reviews. It's worth mentioning that they sell rims for wheel building. There's a large selection.
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Has anyone else been waiting for their GR-201 ordered from tantan for a long time now?
I ordered mine on november 19th. Still no shipping label or tracking information received.
I asked for an update from Jessi a few weeks ago, and she said I would receive the shipping label the week after. Sadly over a week has gone past that moment as well...
Just wondering if I'm the only one or they really can't keep up with demand.
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Has anyone else been waiting for their GR-201 ordered from tantan for a long time now?
I ordered mine on november 19th. Still no shipping label or tracking information received.
I asked for an update from Jessi a few weeks ago, and she said I would receive the shipping label the week after. Sadly over a week has gone past that moment as well...
Just wondering if I'm the only one or they really can't keep up with demand.
I was ordering my GR201 frame from Tantan on 24.11.2025. I was in contact with Jessi as well. The frame was shipped on 12.12.2025, so the production needed roughly 3 weeks. Shipping with DPD to Europe needed around further 3 weeks and the frame arrived finally on 05.01.2026. So, the complete process was not longer than 6 weeks from paying.
For me everything went smoothly, I can't complain. Did you have any special request for the painting or anything else?
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For anyone interested, I mailed Tantan. These are the Torque values for the GR201
handlebar=8-10nm
saddle clamp=4-5NM
seatpost clamp=8-10NM
rear hanger=3NM
Bottle cage hole=3NM
thru axle =9-13NM
headset expander=8-10NM
In that list I'm assuming the "headset expander" is the compression sleeve inside the steerer tube? I torqued mine to 8 nm with and without carbon assembly paste and it just pulls out with minimal torque on the stem cap. I'm getting a longer one from Amazon tomorrow. But if that doesn't work, any other tips?
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Hello,
I'm currently working on my gravel bike and have now installed and adjusted the Wheeltop EDS GEX. My setup
Simple combination without a front derailleur
RiRo carbon with 40-T chainring, Spedao 11–50 cassette and an SRAM X01 chain.
What's puzzling me a little now is the noise the chain makes as it runs over the derailleur pulleys, the cassette, and the sprockets. It's quite loud, and I don't know if that's normal. I can only describe it as a rattling noise.
The chain was cut to length correctly according to the instructions.
However, I think it's due to the Wheeltop derailleur pulleys. When I pull the chain through the pulleys without the derailleur mounted, it sounds almost as loud as when everything is fully assembled.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Here are two videos where you can hear the noise clearly. I aligned the derailleur hanger precisely using a tool. Everything fits perfectly.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/CGN2aBeFRQw
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/owW7mrU15Zk
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Tried catching up on this thread since my last visit, can't wait to get back on this thing when the weather hopefully improves within the next couple of weeks. Really nice seeing all the other builds and nice color choices. This frame really got pretty popular, I like it.
I'm wondering if anyone is using the tailfin rack on this one. I'm contemplating doing a bikepacking trip, but on this frame instead. Really interested in the tailfin setup, maybe someone also can provide some pictures.
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Have you checked that the chain does not go over the derailleur cage stopper? There are two stoppers , one in the middle which causes the chain to Rattle if it is installera incorrectly.
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No, everything was assembled correctly. I read that the chain and sprocket need to be broken in and that it will get better over time. I have installed and adjusted everything correctly so far.
In my YouTube video, I only pull the chain over the shift pulley, and even though I only pull over this one pulley, it is already very loud.
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I was ordering my GR201 frame from Tantan on 24.11.2025. I was in contact with Jessi as well. The frame was shipped on 12.12.2025, so the production needed roughly 3 weeks. Shipping with DPD to Europe needed around further 3 weeks and the frame arrived finally on 05.01.2026. So, the complete process was not longer than 6 weeks from paying.
For me everything went smoothly, I can't complain. Did you have any special request for the painting or anything else?
I ordered on the 19th of november, Nothing special just a normal glosse black frame. But she mailed me a few days ago, all frames were manufactured in matte black. It would probably take till after chinese new year for glosse painted frames would be delivered. They luckily had a frame sitting at customs in a different colourway they could send me, so I should be receiving that in the coming days.
Can't wait :)
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Tideace Noah at Santa Vall. 8)
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Too bad seatpost didn't hold up on stage 2.
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Just received my tideace frame on Friday - matte black, all looks nice and only took 2 or 3 weeks to arrive.
But just now I went to put the seatpost in the frame, and it's ridiculously tight. I managed to twist it in about 5cm, I've tried without carbon paste first, then with.
Anyone else had this?
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Just received my tideace frame on Friday - matte black, all looks nice and only took 2 or 3 weeks to arrive.
But just now I went to put the seatpost in the frame, and it's ridiculously tight. I managed to twist it in about 5cm, I've tried without carbon paste first, then with.
Anyone else had this?
I put a elita one in and it fit perfectly, vernier shows the tideace post is about half a mm wider. Maybe it’s the black paint? I’ll sand it carefully see if I can try it in.
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Finally finished and tested my first ever build. Rode only about 100 km yet, but like it really much.
Frame: Tideace GV201, size 54, pearl white
Handlebars: Lexon UNOX 500-80
Seatpost: Elita One 0mm offset
Groupset: Wheeltop EDS GeX, long cage
Cassette: ZTTO SLR Gen 3 12s 9-51t
Chain: YBN SLA1210
Crankset: Magene PES P515
Chainring: PASS QUEST 40T 0mm offset
Bottom bracket: Token BB47V24
Wheelset: Elitewheels ENT-DISC 40 from my previous bike
Brakes: ZRACE XG4
Rotors: Shimano RT56
Tires: Continental GP5000 32mm
Pedals: Crankbrothers Candy 1
Saddle: Ryet
Handlebar tape: BUCKLOS
Bottle cages: Kocevlo
The total weight with pedals and all the cages and mounts is about 8.5 kg. However, the wheels are quite heavy at 1700+ grams. Planning to build two other sets for road and gravel. Must be close to 8 kg with the road rubber and still about 8.5 kg with some fatties.
The total price is a little more than $1900, except wheels, tires and pedals, which I already had. Most of the components (except chain, tires and pedals) are from Aliexpress, Taobao and other Chinese marketplaces.
I'm 177 cm with 81.5 cm inseam, and size 54 frame with 8 cm stem fits perfectly.
Thanks to everyone on this topic for tons of useful info. And thank you @KopytoNieBladzi for the color scheme inspiration. The handlebar tape might seem a little bit odd on the photos, but it looks so much better in real life, in combination with blue brakes and bolts. Some other blue accessories are already in the shopping cart.
Some component notes:
The ultralight (303 g) 9-51t cassette works flawlessly so far. Had to screw in the tension bolt a little bit more to tension the chain properly on the 9t cog.
P515 crankset requires 2 mm of spacers to fit on the frame. It would work with 1 mm too, but some sand and dirt can cause rubbing. I also added 1 mm spacer on the left crank for balance. There is enough crankshaft length for that.
At first I bought a 44t chainring with 3 mm offset (Wuzei), but it didn't fit. The space between the chainring and a chainstay was a little bit more than 1 mm (with 2 mm of spacers on the crank). I ended up with 40t no-offset chainring.
ZRACE brakes work well but don't blow my mind, considering that this is 4-piston brakes on (kind of) road bike. The pads are squeaking as hell, will change them.
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I went on the maiden woyage of my TanTan gr201 today and have to confess that the handlebar combo is very soft and has quite a lto of flex. Is that normal? Should i be woried?
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Made some changes to my gr201
Lexon unox cockpit cracked --> Deda superbox stem with Balugoe handlebar, works like a charm now
My 45mm Zen carbon wheels had some issues, but they sended me new ones free of charge! Went with the 50mm now
My xcadey powermeter broke, so changed to garbaruk direct mount chainring with assioma mx1 power pedals
Really happy with the bike now!
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Did it arrive? How's it looking? Just ordered the same bar to put on the same bike with the same headset.
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I finally finished my gravel bike. Here are a few pictures and the parts I used.
- Frame Tan Tan GR201
- Elitewheels ENT Gravel
- Riro MTB Carbon Crank
- Rotor T47 Bottom Bracket 85.5 mm
- Wheeltop New GeX Gravel Bike
- SPEDAO 12S road cassettes
- KOCEVLO Dimension 143 carbon saddle
- Sram x01 Eagle
- Zipp Service Course handlebar tape
- Schwalbe G-ONE Overland
- Shimano brake discs
- 40T chainring
- Lexon Unox Gravel
(https://i.ibb.co/whdJMw5K/GR201-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jjcx5yDz)
(https://i.ibb.co/7Ny3tbNr/GR201-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n8kXMR8Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/4hbkBZz/GR201-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T9QyzB6)
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I got fm296 size 560 from mondince - but the seat tube doesn't go all the way in (there are height markings on the seat tube. It gets stuck at 230). Is this expected? I'm thinking of cutting the tube, but there is some sort of a friction layer on the seatpost, plus I don't really want to cut it if it's supposed to fit
Any ideas?
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My Tideace GV201:
(https://iili.io/fphB4oP.jpg)
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My Tideace GV201:
Beek-Ubbergen? Nijmegen hier :)
Which size is that? 54?
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Beek-Ubbergen? Nijmegen hier :)
Which size is that? 54?
Size 54 indeed (I am 1,84, but prefer a shorter toptube)
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Hi folks!
I'm going to set up my first gravel bike in near future. This frame seems interesting for me, but after tones of reading posts, making excel tables I'm still knowing nothing about which frame size should I choose.
I'm 181cm height with 88-89 inseam and 184 arm span. After some research I'm mostly decide to 56 size. Is anyone here that has similar inseam and this frame size?
Now I'm riding on MTB bike with 450 reach and 626 stack, TT=630mm and don't feel comfortable after longer rides.
Is GR201 good geometry choice - wanna something between upright position and race style :).
PS. Could anyone who has 56 frame, set the saddle on 79cm height from BB and measure the distance from ~center of saddle to handlebar? ::) I'd be really apreciate a photo showing these set ;)
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I'm also hunting for a frame and using CAD to help me; here's a diagram with your numbers. The center-of-saddle-to-handlebar number is 72.26cm (the grey figure at top near the mouse pointer).
This makes a few assumptions:
- 110mm stem, 7 degrees
- 80mm saddle-to-handlebar drop (with those numbers you'd have 75.6mm of exposed steerer tube (the grey number on the far right))
- infinitely thin saddle; since most saddles aren't that thin, your saddle will sit a little further forward, so shave off a few millimeters from the 72.26cm number
With a 90mm stem your reach would be 70.16cm (again, slightly less in actuality) but you'd have almost 80mm exposed steerer tube.
Ideally, you'll want to know your saddle-to-handlebar reach and your saddle-to-handlebar drop (in addition to your saddle height) and then begin your search for a frame from there.
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I would suggest to use a geometry tool like bike-state.de with your exact measures.
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I'm also hunting for a frame and using CAD to help me; here's a diagram with your numbers. The center-of-saddle-to-handlebar number is 72.26cm (the grey figure at top near the mouse pointer).
....
Thank you very much for your great job with CAd drawing!
I'll check my present settings on MTB but at glance it seems quite agressive position for me - esspecially saddle/handlebar high differemce.
Probably I should find another frame with some little bit higher head or stack and higher angle of saddle tube. Carbonda CFR707 looks more comfortable.
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Yeah, there are plenty options to choose from, it just takes some patience to find the frame that suits you best. From the models I looked at, the LightCarbon LCG071/LCG074 geometry seems quite relaxed.
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hey there.
just finished my tideace build. pictures coming soon.
has anybody the 3d print file for this adapter?
i tried to contact the user but he didnt answer...
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I'm also hunting for a frame and using CAD to help me......
Inspired by Chiyou i draw the comparisson Tideace GR201 vs Carbonda CFR 707 which I thought is more comfortable, but differences are not as much as I thought by just compared this frames in Bike Insight or simmilar sites...
Good that I've checked this because I was almost ordered Carbonda :) but as I see the seat post is very long - 285mm to top of saddle so I probably need longer seatpost? The bending moment in seatpost mounting point will be much bigger in Carbonda than in Tideace so it's not good in longterm use and carbon frame...
The reach from saddle to aproximate handle point is about 15mm difference in this 2 frames, I'm not sure if that really matters?
Any suggestions?
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If this is the measure of interest, you should consider, that Carbonda is using an offset seatpost whereas tideace is using zero offset. So it should come out the same.
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I see the seat post is very long - 285mm to top of saddle so I probably need longer seatpost?
Yes, minimum insertion length for seatposts is usually in the 80 to 100mm range. Please note though that the Tideace situation isn't much better as their supplied seatpost is likely too short for your needs (their web page says 300mm).
My thinking regarding the bending moment and resulting stresses is that 400mm seatposts are readily available for purchase and that at least reputable manufacturers will have done the appropriate analysis and testing. And speaking generally, carbon fiber has good fatigue performance (assuming stresses are low enough). Everyone's terrain, weight, risk tolerance, access to Uber or medical care are different, of course. And I should highlight the appropriateness of your user name here.
One additional comment: a longer seatpost may actually be more desirable from a suspension standpoint.
About the reach question, you can always compensate with a longer/shorter stem (just as long as you aren't at the extremes to begin with); it may require some experimentation.
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On the Road with the Gravel
(https://i.ibb.co/TDF02pjh/Gravel-201.png) (https://ibb.co/5Xfj4tpc)
(https://i.ibb.co/kVCKVWjn/Gemini-Generated-Image-phzd1ophzd1ophzd.png) (https://ibb.co/fVwMVPfR)
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Finally got my tideace on the road today for a quick blast to bed the brakes in. Weighs in at ~8.5kg with cages, pedals and computer mount which I was quite impressed with. Build was pretty straight forward, worst part was the supacaz tape that has no stretch or give - never again. I'll stick to my normal Prologo plaintouch next time. I also had to chuck the seatpost that came with the frame as it was a fraction too wide and wouldn't fit in the seat tube, even with some light sanding.
Frame: 56cm matte black Tideace - normally I ride 58cm but the reach of the 58cm looked too long - glad I did. 3d printed front mech cover cheers @n3wman
Handlebars: Balugoe integrated bars 400/100 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004870171538.html
Seatpost: Elita one offset 350mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005257777214.html
Saddle: Mixed 7d got these on all my bikes, but have a Ryet T40A 3D printed saddle on the way https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004594187447.html
Wheels: Easedon 38x45mm hooked symmetric rims, fly weight hub (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010707515049.html)
Rotors: Zrace 160mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006226762498.html
Groupset: Wheeltop GEX - easy to install, shifts nicely. app is crap, initial set up is a faff https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008209006706.html
Cassette: ZTTO 13 speed 11-40t. Took a risk with this as I didn't get on with my super lightweight ZTTO on my road bike it was too noisey. But this after one ride seems very quiet and 13s is nice https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009425171192.html
Chain: Ultegra 12s chain I had laying around, squirt hot wax. Seems to work fine with 13s cassette.
Chainset: Hudud carbon 24mm xcadey PM - not actually managed to pair this yet https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010510316765.html
Chainring: Deckas from ebay, bought a selection think 38t is on bike
Computer mount: RRSKit long titanium https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009028911492.html
Tyres: Panaracer Gravelking X1 R 45c - come up as 51mm on these rims, currently using ridenow gravel TPU, will be tubeless
Tape: Supercaz Super Sticky Kush Gravel - never again.
Cages: Elite custom race
Got some gravel events booked in and might have a go at some cyclocross towards end of year, which is one of the reasons I went for this frame with its relatively short wheelbase.
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Special Painting available.
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Anyone been bother to polish out light scuffs , specialli aroun drop outs from occasional heel rub? I love the color but i thinj that it scracthec way to easily
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Just use some protective foil?
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Oh, i've never tough of applying protective foil to an alreadu scuffed frame! That is neat! Thank you!
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If it is already scratched you can use some color or just black to create a contrast. But the first thing I do on every frame is foil on chainstay, downtube and seattube.
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Anyone using Tailfin Bags on their 54 frame? Currently looking for upgrading my bikepacking setup using this frame, but I'm unsure which bags - in particular frame and top tube bag - would be the best fit. Thanks in advance!
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Does anyone here use a frame bag with a size 52 frame? I’m looking for something that fits perfectly—no gaps or wasted space
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A new headset will not solve the issue as the Tantan uses proprietary spacers. I dont think there is any other C ring available that will fit this handlebar.
if you’re having headset play just use a 1mm spacer between the compression ring and the topcap. Problem solved
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Lexon unox cockpit cracked --> Deda superbox stem with Balugoe handlebar, works like a charm now
What compression ring did you use so that the Superbox headset wouldn't cause any issues?
I just got back from the bike shop; I asked them to install the stem and a new set of handlebars, and I'm livid... He didn't use the Superbox headset and spacers but the ones that came with the frame instead. When I asked him why he left it like that, he told me the compression rings weren’t compatible. I thought I read here that it wasn’t a problem, though (using the bearings that came with the frame).
I want to check myself but don't want to bleed the brakes again...
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What compression ring did you use so that the Superbox headset wouldn't cause any issues?
I just got back from the bike shop; I asked them to install the stem and a new set of handlebars, and I'm livid... He didn't use the Superbox headset and spacers but the ones that came with the frame instead. When I asked him why he left it like that, he told me the compression rings weren’t compatible. I thought I read here that it wasn’t a problem, though (using the bearings that came with the frame).
I want to check myself but don't want to bleed the brakes again...
Kind of crazy for the shop to just set it up that way without discussing with you first.
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Kind of crazy for the shop to just set it up that way without discussing with you first.
Yeah right ? Anyway, couldn't resist, tried myself, tearing every cable apart and it fits perfectly...
I don't even know what to say.
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Hi, sorry for my late reply, I used the deda one, first it worked really well without any creaks. Now I have a persistent creak when I put a lot of force on the handlebars tho..
Tried losening everything and tightening it back up but the creak stays. Idk whats causing this but quite annoying
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Has anyone ran narrower road tires on their GR201 for road rides? I have a Domane for road riding but it feels so sluggish (the engine accepts most of the blame here) and the GR201 feels way more lively even with big tires so I was thinking of picking up a narrower set of wheels and running 28c/30c tires for an occasional fast road ride. I'm currently running 9VELO GV2.0 wheels with 48c Tufo Thunderos.
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Has anyone ran narrower road tires on their GR201 for road rides? I have a Domane for road riding but it feels so sluggish (the engine accepts most of the blame here) and the GR201 feels way more lively even with big tires so I was thinking of picking up a narrower set of wheels and running 28c/30c tires for an occasional fast road ride. I'm currently running 9VELO GV2.0 wheels with 48c Tufo Thunderos.
What color is that? It looks good.
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What color is that? It looks good.
Pantone 5195C. As far as I know this is the same color as the Dusty Merlot color used by State Bicycle Co.
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Has anyone ran narrower road tires on their GR201 for road rides? I have a Domane for road riding but it feels so sluggish (the engine accepts most of the blame here) and the GR201 feels way more lively even with big tires so I was thinking of picking up a narrower set of wheels and running 28c/30c tires for an occasional fast road ride. I'm currently running 9VELO GV2.0 wheels with 48c Tufo Thunderos.
I used to have a road wheelset set up for my GR201 with 700x35s. Honestly it is not a great road bike, I had a lot of trouble holding tight lines through corners with the local fast group. I did a 200mi/12k road ride on it last summer and it was great for that though, very comfy and not much slower than my road bike.
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I used to have a road wheelset set up for my GR201 with 700x35s. Honestly it is not a great road bike, I had a lot of trouble holding tight lines through corners with the local fast group. I did a 200mi/12k road ride on it last summer and it was great for that though, very comfy and not much slower than my road bike.
Great input! I don't plan to get rid of my endurance road bike, I just feel like the GR201 will be more playful (feel faster). The bike will never be my issue if I tried to ride with a local fast group.
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Right on, I think that as a bike just to ride on the road it is great. I like how yours is built up. Same group set, tires, and seatpost as I have on mine. The AXS dropper was my all time favorite gravel bike upgrade!
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Hi all!
I'm currently planning a custom gravel build and doing a lot of research before buying the frameset.
The bike will mainly be used for:
Commuting (20 km + 20 km, mostly gravel paths) Road riding with a second wheelset or fast tyres Long all-road rides Light bikepacking / Camino de Santiago type trips
I already bought a Shimano GRX Di2 825 2x12 groupset with 48/31 crankset because I want the bike to remain quite road-oriented while still being capable on gravel.
At the moment I'm comparing several Chinese frames such as the Mondince FM326, FM336, Carbonda CFR696 and this Tideace frame.
Maybe a silly question from a newbie:
I noticed this Tideace frame is referred to both as GV201 and GR201 depending on where I look.
On the Tideace website it is called GV201.
Is there actually any difference between GV201 and GR201, or are they exactly the same frame and just different naming conventions?
EDIT: I reply myself as found GV correspondes to Tideace and GR to TanTan/Seraph. Cheers!
Thanks!
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Beek-Ubbergen? Nijmegen hier :)
Which size is that? 54?
Love it!
What colour is that?
And also what handlebar?
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Anyone using Tailfin Bags on their 54 frame? Currently looking for upgrading my bikepacking setup using this frame, but I'm unsure which bags - in particular frame and top tube bag - would be the best fit. Thanks in advance!
I have bought tailfin half frame bag 3L and top tube bag 1.1L
(https://i.ibb.co/hRGv0Bf4/4d8d7ee3-19e5-4d12-9e87-ab95c48a7b3d-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fY37Jkvy)
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Hi! I have a doubt regarding sizing.
My measurements are:
- Height: 177-178 cm (5'10")
- Inseam: 81-82 cm (31.9"-32.3")
I am currently considering both:
- Mondince FM326
- Noah platform frames (Mondince FM296 / Tideace GV201 / TanTan-Seraph GR201)
My goal is a comfortable endurance / all-road gravel bike rather than a race-oriented setup.
For those who own any of these frames, which size would you recommend for my measurements? I usually prefer a slightly more comfortable fit for long rides rather than an aggressive racing position. For reference, I currently ride an Orbea Rise size M and feel comfortable on it.
Any feedback from owners with similar measurements would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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Hi! I have a doubt regarding sizing.
My measurements are:
- Height: 177-178 cm (5'10")
- Inseam: 81-82 cm (31.9"-32.3")
I am currently considering both:
- Mondince FM326
- Noah platform frames (Mondince FM296 / Tideace GV201 / TanTan-Seraph GR201)
My goal is a comfortable endurance / all-road gravel bike rather than a race-oriented setup.
For those who own any of these frames, which size would you recommend for my measurements? I usually prefer a slightly more comfortable fit for long rides rather than an aggressive racing position. For reference, I currently ride an Orbea Rise size M and feel comfortable on it.
Any feedback from owners with similar measurements would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I’m 183cm/83cm riding the 540 FM296. Fits perfectly. 170mm cranks. 100mm stem
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I’m 183cm/83cm riding the 540 FM296. Fits perfectly. 170mm cranks. 100mm stem
Thank you for your feeback. My dout is 54 o 52. I guess I'll pick the longer frame and add a shorter stem if needed.
Is there a contact for the sales person for Tideace?
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I noticed Tideace offers "Transparent Colour". I guess it's some kind of "Raw Carbon View Colour"
As per Aliexpress site indicates: B002 / B003 / R004)
I guess it's available in 2 blue and 1 red
Anyone with a frame like that?
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Just came across the pictures of my build and want to share it.
It is already 5 months ago, I finished it and love it since ever. Such a smooth ride! Thanks to the forum for the support and inspiration!
do you know the colour of the frame?
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I noticed Tideace offers "Transparent Colour". I guess it's some kind of "Raw Carbon View Colour"
As per Aliexpress site indicates: B002 / B003 / R004)
I guess it's available in 2 blue and 1 red
Anyone with a frame like that?
I have a raw carbon frame with a clear coat if that’s what you are asking?
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I have a raw carbon frame with a clear coat if that’s what you are asking?
Exactly. By the **Raw Carbon Frame** finish, that's what I mean. The frame has an exposed carbon finish covered with a transparent clear coat, so you can still see the carbon weave and patterns underneath.
Sometimes that clear coat has a slight tint, which means that instead of seeing the carbon weave in black, it appears in a different color. In this case, I believe they offer two shades of blue and one red option.
My **Orbea Rise** has the **Blue Raw Carbon View** finish, and the color is absolutely stunning.
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I made a Mockup of the colours of my possible future bike. And I think I will go for something like this:
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Exactly. By the **Raw Carbon Frame** finish, that's what I mean. The frame has an exposed carbon finish covered with a transparent clear coat, so you can still see the carbon weave and patterns underneath.
Sometimes that clear coat has a slight tint, which means that instead of seeing the carbon weave in black, it appears in a different color. In this case, I believe they offer two shades of blue and one red option.
My **Orbea Rise** has the **Blue Raw Carbon View** finish, and the color is absolutely stunning.
Here is mine
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Quick question: on Tideace site is marked that seatpost is 27.2 x 300.
I will install Elita One but most of them are 27.2 x 350.
Is that a problem buying 350?
EDIT and Reply Myself after seeing anothe member had it installed on his frame. Yes, you can install 350
Question 2:
Could you please confirm the quantity, thread size and length of all mounting bolts supplied with the frame and fork?
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Has anyone ran narrower road tires on their GR201 for road rides? I have a Domane for road riding but it feels so sluggish (the engine accepts most of the blame here) and the GR201 feels way more lively even with big tires so I was thinking of picking up a narrower set of wheels and running 28c/30c tires for an occasional fast road ride. I'm currently running 9VELO GV2.0 wheels with 48c Tufo Thunderos.
I think it’s a great road bike. I don’t really notice a difference from my Rose X-Lite 06 - marginally slower perhaps.
Did 56km with 615m of climbing today and averaged 32.5 km/h at 63.5% FTP (35 miles at 20.2 mph w/ a little over 2k feet of climbing). Very decent numbers IMO for this bike.
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Rode mine at Dalby Grit yesterday, bike was great and I’m so glad I did a last minute switch from wheeltop gex for force xplr. One very annoying thing was the constantly rattling storage cover. Any solutions? I also for the life of me can’t get the front brake aligned (on either groupset) so the front brake just howls. I tried carefully filling excess paint off.
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Hey guys,
it's been a while since my last comment on this topic, but I've been lurking here for quite some time and I'm really glad seeing all these new owners and the people helping each other out. I'm still really happy with the bike. I get compliments regarding the look, it climbs well, it's fast and quite responsive, so overall just echoing the feedback other's have given here so far.
Anyway, today I sadly destroyed my UDH. I was going for a after work bike ride, where I heard my rear tyre and disc brake rubbing. I stopped immedeatly and noticed the problem: the UDH moved to the cassette, essentially moving the entire rim to the non drive side. Luckily, I was only 5km into the ride, so I instantly rode back home. As I was dismantling everything, it finally dawned on me: I recently bought into the Tailfin Rear Rack System, where I had to change the orignal UDH with another one for the longer thru axle. After I installed the orginal UDH insert again, I somehow managed to forget to add the washer between frame and insert. Sadly, this mishap caused a few damages on the frame: a small chip where the UDH rests against the frame, a few scrapes in the thru axle hole (drive side) and the scuffs on the non drive side (see pictures)
So my questions, regarding my stupid mistake are as follows:
1. Is the frame still safe to ride? My opinion suggests yes, because the chainstay is quite chunky. I wouldn't have a problem riding this bike, but with my bikepacking adventures in mind, I just want to be a bit safer and ask for other opinions.
2. My UDH threads are little damaged (just the first thread), so I wanna try to chase both the UDH and insert at work. Does someone know the reverse thread pitch for this?
3. If my plan above doesn't work, do I have to check for something when ordering a new UDH? I know I have to look out for a M12x1 insert and use the washer ::)
4. And last just another thing that crossed my mind, for people who also ordered from TideAce: was a second UDH included? I searched through my bike parts and could'nt find one.
Thanks for everyone who can help me out and share his view on the frame damage!
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Crushed my first seatpost in the dumb clamp design, luckily I have lots of elita ones spare.
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Hello all. Just sneaked into that topic and have a question to your experience with choosing the right size.
I am 180 with an inseam of 83cm. Anyone with the same date who can tell me which size does fit best? M or L?
Maybe you can show me your builds too.
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Hello all. Just sneaked into that topic and have a question to your experience with choosing the right size.
I am 180 with an inseam of 83cm. Anyone with the same date who can tell me which size does fit best? M or L?
Maybe you can show me your builds too.
FWIW I’m 188cm usually ride xl frames, riding the gv201 in L. Stack is a bit low for me, but reach is spot on.
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Hello all. Just sneaked into that topic and have a question to your experience with choosing the right size.
I am 180 with an inseam of 83cm. Anyone with the same date who can tell me which size does fit best? M or L?
Maybe you can show me your builds too.
100% M
I am 189cm with 91 inseam and ride an L
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Well. Bike project Tideace GV201 Gravel Project finish. Below summary:
- Frame: Tideace GV201 Carbon Gravel. Bottom bracket: T47 86 mm. Size: 54. Color: R-002 (Copper/Bronze)
- Fork: Tideace Carbon. Color: Black
- Headset: Integrated
- Groupset: Shimano GRX Di2 2×12, including:
-> Left shifter: Shimano ST-RX825 Di2
-> Right shifter: Shimano ST-RX825 Di2
-> Front brake caliper: Shimano BR-RX820
-> Rear brake caliper: Shimano BR-RX820
-> Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-RX825 Di2
-> Front derailleur: Shimano FD-RX825 Di2
-> Crankset: Shimano FC-RX820-2 48/31T, 170 mm
-> Cassette: Shimano 105 CS-HG710-12 11-36
-> Chain: Shimano CN-M8100
-> Rotors: Shimano RT-CL800 Center Lock, 160 mm front / 160 mm rear
-> Battery: Shimano BT-DN300
-> Di2 wiring: EW-SD300 800 mm / EW-SD300 1200 mm
-> Charging cable: Shimano EW-EC300 USB-C
- Bottom Bracket: Token Ninja BB47V24 Premium, T47 Inboard, Shimano Hollowtech II 24 mm
- Wheelset: Elite Wheels Edge Gravel Carbon, 38 mm depth, 25 mm internal width, Center Lock, 36T Ratchet, HG freehub, 12×100 mm front / 12×142 mm rear thru-axles, Tubeless Ready
- Tires: Front: Tufo Thundero HD 700×40C Tubeless Tan Wall / Rear: Tufo Thundero HD 700×40C Tubeless Tan Wall
- Handlebar: TOSEEK Carbon Gravel, 420 mm, approx. 12° flare
- Stem: Elita Carbon, 90 mm, -6°
- Seatpost: Elita One Carbon, 27.2 mm, 20 mm offset
- Saddle: Elita Carbon, 155 mm
- Bar tape: Black PU Sticky anti-slip bar tape, including AliExpress bar-end plugs
- Pedals: Shimano M520 SPD
The bike shop added the following during assembly:
- PRO Di2 Battery Holder for 27.2–28.6 mm seatpost
- XLC BR.X49 Flat Mount adapter for 160 mm rear brake rotor
- Jagwire 4.5 mm anti-rattle cable sleeves (1 m)
- 1 1/8" headset spacer
Other Components
- Bottle cages: 2 × ultralight carbon bottle cages (Inspired by Bontrager XXX)
- Tubeless valves: MANA (AliExpress)
- Tubeless tape: Elite Wheels (included with the wheelset)
- Tubeless sealant: X-Sauce
Weight: 8.66 kg (19.09 lb) including pedals, bottle cages and tubeless sealant.
My goal was to build a sub-9 kg gravel bike, so mission accomplished! 🚴🏻
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I like where gravel frames are heading. Tire clearance and a T47 BB are a lot more appealing to me than chasing a few extra grams.
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I am very tempted to buy a Tideace GV201 or TanTan GR201. Plan to build it with a road groupset 2x on it and use it for everything road race, grouprides, cx races and bike touring. I wanted to know peoples experience with the max 2x chainring they could fit, any official data or experience. Also what kind of spacers are needed to make this fit, do these spacers make the chain to bent in certain gears etc. Going to be my first bike build and this is one of the main concern I have. I have seen many people online complain about multiple cranksets rubbing on the frame, even when they are smaller than the prescribd max(53T in 2x). I want to fit atleast 52t, ideally 53.
Also please share any advice on TanTan vs Tideace, paintjob selection, delivery experience to Europe/France, good deepsection wheelsets
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I use my Tideace for gravel and also for road Ultra/bikepacking.
I have sram force cranks (road model,not wide) with quarq spider and rings 50/34, without problem or any special spacers needed.
With 11speed di2 GRX and 11/40 XTR casette, it is perfect gearing for road, bikepacking and gravel.
For road I use 35mm Michelin Pro5 tires.
For Gravel Tufo thundero HD 48, with enough clearance to FD so I think that 50mm would work without problem.
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I use mine on the road with gravel tires regularly. Recently put the new SILCA RCG1s on it and took it to my local Tuesday smash fest.
This bike rides like a dream. See my post history for the build, only change is that I’ve dropped the TB for RCG1s in 50mm.