I’m definitely intrigued by this frameset but unable to find reviews anywhere. Anyone on here purchased this yet?
Very interested in this frame as well. Please update us when you get your hands on it @jonathanf2
could you show a photos ? I also want to have some UD gloss bare carbon look :D
Only reason I opted for UD glossy is that my last SPCycle frameset had so-so paint. My other UD glossy frameset seemed to fare better from regular ride wear. I attached a photo they sent me with the frame on the scale.
Anybody has any feedbacks about this ? Seems lighter than TT-X68 ..
I wasn't planning on upgrading my road frame this year, but this frame ticked all the right boxes for me. Plus the next major AliEx sale is the Summer Sale and US prices will most likely increase, so I figure it's a good time to buy. Also from the pictures I received, I can confirm Di2/ER9/ERX battery routing goes behind the FD hanger. It's very similar to the other SL8 clones, but with a slightly different head tube.
Though I'm planning to build this out as a lightweight climber. I was debating between the SPCycle R088 and ICAN FL1, but the R088 is cheaper, confirmed EPS molded(hopefully), UDH and still fairly lightweight. Also I just can't get myself to like the Aethos style design. For those who are interested in an aero build, this won't be it. I'm aiming to get this build in the mid-6kg range with pedals, cages, computer mount and power meter. I'll be swapping over my ER9 groupset and other components from my current TFSA SL6 clone frameset.
Why wouldn't this be an aero-ish bike? Like the TT-x68 or Speci SL7/8? Doesn't look worst to me. Off course it's not an all out aerobike (like canyon CFR, Cannondale Systemsix, Giant Propel, whatever), but those are normally (especially their chiner-counterparts) a bit more heavy.
This looks like a leightweigth aero-ish frame. Do it all, but not to endurance focused :)
I'm building it out more like aero-ish climber, with wider bars (fully wrapped to piss off the aero crowd here) and shallow depth climbing wheels. I think one of the complaints about the Aethos style design is that it's somewhat flexy. I want to build out a less flexy climber, that's still fairly lightweight.
Anyways, my frameset is en-route. Honestly I don't find SPcycle customer service to be that great. I had to keep politely messaging them for updates. Also they told me they're not shipping via FedEx and yet my shipping update says it's FedEx. ::)
I had a much better buying experience through the Ceccotti/Surprised Store/Sequel Bikes vendor for my gravel frameset. That frameset looked great with excellent paint work and clean carbon lay-up. Their customer service was prompt, provided lots of photos and answered all my questions. On top of that, they forgot to ship my spare RD hanger, so they shipped me another one ASAP, though for a $1 USD fee. Unfortunately they don't sell any sub 900g road framesets, but all their latest frames appear to have 32c tire clearance, T47 bottom brackets and appear to use a common (with Chinese frames) RD hanger. Their prices are reasonable as well. In retrospect I should have just bought a road frame from them instead.
Thanks for the clarification. Not the bike is 'non-aero' but your build is more 'non-aero-focused'. If I understand you correct, you could do an aero-ish build with this (smaller bars, aero wheelset).
Can the frame entertain fully internal routing and integrated handlebars? Wonder why they didn't package it with int. handlebars...I think any frame with enough clearance around the BB can do fully internal routing. Just need the right headset
I think any frame with enough clearance around the BB can do fully internal routing. Just need the right headset
Added photos of the R088 frameset. A few quick observations. The chain stays and seat stays are really thin. The bottom bracket shell is tiny. The fork spacing is wide. The tire clearance for this frame is spec'ed for 32c, but the rear triangle area looks small, so it'll probably be a tight fit. I forgot to take photos of the head tube, but I put bearings on each end, and the fit is snug with no play. I didn't have much faith in SPCycle's paint work and went with UD glossy since it's easy to touch up, but I prefer it over painted black.
In a lot of ways it's just a more refined version of the TFSA SL6 clone I'm planning to replace. I don't have those wire cameras, but from what I could peak from the BB shell and head tube, the EPS molding does look smooth. Also it looks similar to the SL8 knock-offs minus the ass sniffer head tube. I'm curious to see how stiff this frame will be, it almost looks anorexic. If I was a big boy, I might be scared of riding this. Overall, I think this will be a quick parts swap from my older frame. I'll see if I can finish the build this this week. ;)
Added photos of the R088 frameset. A few quick observations. The chain stays and seat stays are really thin. The bottom bracket shell is tiny. The fork spacing is wide. The tire clearance for this frame is spec'ed for 32c, but the rear triangle area looks small, so it'll probably be a tight fit. I forgot to take photos of the head tube, but I put bearings on each end, and the fit is snug with no play. I didn't have much faith in SPCycle's paint work and went with UD glossy since it's easy to touch up, but I prefer it over painted black.
In a lot of ways it's just a more refined version of the TFSA SL6 clone I'm planning to replace. I don't have those wire cameras, but from what I could peak from the BB shell and head tube, the EPS molding does look smooth. Also it looks similar to the SL8 knock-offs minus the ass sniffer head tube. I'm curious to see how stiff this frame will be, it almost looks anorexic. If I was a big boy, I might be scared of riding this. Overall, I think this will be a quick parts swap from my older frame. I'll see if I can finish the build this this week. ;)
Looks great!
What about the supplied hardware, e.g. Headset, c-ring? Is it using the same plastic c-ring as the original SL8/sl8 Fakes?
And is the seatpost as thin as the sl8, so that the di2 battery cannot be mounted inside the post?
Also I'm really surprised this frame uses a P1.0 thread pitch. I happen to have the lever style thru-axles for P1.0 in 124mm and 168mm on my TFSA SL6 clone. There won't be a need for me to get new thru axles with levers. I thought for sure it'd use P1.5 thread pitch TAs which all my other frames use.
I looked through your pictures and the frame finish looks pretty good, any real complaints with the frame so far? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and just getting a UD gloss frame
It comes with very basic hardware. headset expander plug, 2 headset bearings, alloy c-ring, fork crown race, Di2 battery holder clip, seatpost clamp and headset cover with rubber cable plug. Yes the seat post is thin, I haven't seen the SL8 seat post to compare, but the battery has to be connected via the clamp. I'm a bit disappointed SPcycle didn't even bother to provide a seatpost rubber gasket cover.
I think that if you need to insert an integrated handlebar of another brand with its spacers, the ring that I see in the photo above, the one with the 4 holes for cable passage, should not be used. but use the one supplied with the handlebar. correct?
Yes, I think most integrated bars come with their own spacer hardware and c-ring, not all but most.
They also sell stems with internal cable routing that come supplied with their own bearings and c-ring, but I find the total package quite heavy.
Thanks! Now I have to decide between this and a X68.... Hmm decisions decisions
They're practically identical geometry-wise except for the head tube design. The selling point for me on the SPcycle frame is the UDH (easy to acquire & cheap), 32c tire width (yet to be seen) and confirmed to be EPS molded (looks like it from what I can see). Plus this frame is compatible with mechanical groupsets. Tan Tan doesn't seem very open at disclosing any information on the X68.
I asked them and they said it was EPS molded but who knows really.
I could be wrong but the X68 looks like it has a UDH as well
The RD hanger doesn't look to be UDH (from Tan Tan's website):
(https://usaimages.oss-us-west-1.aliyuncs.com/10515/product/detail/20241024/1729761598025_0.jpg)
The frame I have is definitely UDH, which tightens with an M6 hex wrench. It's not a deal breaker, I'd just buy from whichever vendor/frame you prefer! ;)
I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.
The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.
My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?)
If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post! ;D
You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662
I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol
After solving the ER9 battery fit issue, the overall build is going smoothly. I still need to swap over the ER9 shifters from my other frameset. I'll probably run a few stem spacers until I get used to the fit, though I'll most likely slam the stem. I put a rubber seat post gasket to show where the seat post would be without an ER9 or Di2 battery installed. On a full wireless or regular mechanical setup, it will go down all the way. If running SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, you can definitely skip the seat post cutting and positioning of the battery cables.
I included shots of the chain stay and fork tire spacing. 32c tires look like they'll fit, but will definitely be snug in the rear.
I am loving it, it looks very good, excited to hear how it rides. We are gonna need you to go try a SL8 afterwards for a comparison
Also the way the RD hole exits through the lower chain stay seems more like an afterthought. I definitely think this frame was build with full wireless in mind.
Do they provide any spacer for the integrated handlebar ? The bearing system is NO.55R 1.5 ? I'm asking as I have Avian Canary Handlebar and I wish to use it. The frame has the UCI sticker ?
Did you have any problems while setting up the electronic shifters? Some people talked about the problem of poor moisture protection in er9, maybe it has been fixed now, what do you think?
Today I ordered this frame in matte color for 520 usd. They wrote that it will be sent on January 18, probably it will come to me next month.
By the way, I never feel the difference between "stiff" and "soft" frames. I rode for a long time on a fake pinarrelo dogma and ride on the original Scott Foil and I did not notice any difference. Although everyone said that the difference is very noticeable. I don't understand how you feel it?
The bike looks very nice! Well, maybe I can live with no UCI sticker
Matt black
This is UD matt, not matt black.
The following is the weight of the Matt black frame (without rear axle and UDH hanger installed)
Size 44, weight 760G
Size 49, weight 780G
Size 52, weight 800G
Size 54, weight 830G
Size 56, weight 860G
Size 58, weight 885G
the frame is nice and seems well made, but it would be nice with a more tapered head tube restyling.
a simple cylinder clashes with the frame line
I already understood. But I think it's better to write ud matte in the product card, and not just matte like you have, and post more real photos so that the person can see what he's buying
Now that I look closely comparing my TFSA SL6 clone and my R088, even the older Tarmac clones have the slight tapered head tube. Then again there's always the TanTan X68 or other SL8 clones if that's the look you're going for. I mainly got this frame for the other features. UDH hangers are like $6 USD and UDH direct mount hangers are under $20 USD. Plus at some point I might try fitting 32c tires.
Sorry you didn't get exactly what you wanted. I made sure to verify the look beforehand with SPcycle with examples before moving forward with my UD glossy coating. The only reason I went with UD glossy is that it's easier to hide scratches and other blemishes, plus I'm not confident in SPcycle's paint work from a previous frame I purchased from them.
I like this model for sure... Specifically because of the UD but I am probably gonna go the X68 route.
How's your bike holding up?
The top tube is definitely more hollow sounding and flexes when squeezed
Do you think it's a flaw? How much does it flex actually?
Now that I look closely comparing my TFSA SL6 clone and my R088, even the older Tarmac clones have the slight tapered head tube. Then again there's always the TanTan X68 or other SL8 clones if that's the look you're going for. I mainly got this frame for the other features. UDH hangers are like $6 USD and UDH direct mount hangers are under $20 USD. Plus at some point I might try fitting 32c tires.
Sorry you didn't get exactly what you wanted. I made sure to verify the look beforehand with SPcycle with examples before moving forward with my UD glossy coating. The only reason I went with UD glossy is that it's easier to hide scratches and other blemishes, plus I'm not confident in SPcycle's paint work from a previous frame I purchased from them.
I really like this frame. I meant, if you really want to find something to improve it is the head tube.
would you be so kind if you could share photos of the front bike
thanks
good rides with your new bike
Sure, I'll take photos in the morning. Anything you want to see in particular?this shot thanks
I was finally able to stretch the legs of the R088 and did an early morning ride before the pollution levels of the Los Angeles fires became worst as the sun came out. I took it on both some long flat stretches and my local climb areas. It's relatively lightweight and I felt like there was good power transfer. On the flats, it accelerated smoothly while holding speed easily. On the climbs, I could go out of saddle and the frame responded well to rocking the bike back-n-forth. Handling is very good as well, I didn't even notice any toe overlap and steering felt precise without being overly twitchy. My only issue is that my other wheelset with 25c tires looks a bit awkward. For climbing I tend to prefer narrower tires. Aesthetically it looks best with a 28c tire or bigger. Overall it's a very well-balanced frameset. I think I could comfortably recommend it. ;)
Here ya go!
Hi, how does the Spcycle SP-R088 perform downhill?
I'm seriously considering buying it (I still ride a rim brake frame, and would like to upgrade to something more updated/modern)....although it looks quite a bit like the Tarmac SL8 (excluding head tube and fork), I think that compared to the Seraph TT- X68, this R088 has its own "personality".
Let's say it would have all the features I look for in a frame: frame type, suitable geometries, compatibility of electronic and mechanical groupsets, 32mm wheel clearance.
I took a look at their website and it seems strange to me not to find information on the resistance tests carried out and/or on the EPS technology used for molding the frame... I suspect that the frame is not produced by SpCycle. ...can you tell me something about it?
It also seems strange to me that they don't provide a rubber cover for the seat post block and the possibility of having the frame together with its own integrated handlebar....
Regarding the BSA 68mm bottom bracket, do you think I could be able to mount a Quarq DZero + crankset with 30mm axle that I currently mount on my Cervélo R3 which has a BBRight (79mm) bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information you want to give me!
Regarding the BSA 68mm bottom bracket, do you think I could be able to mount a Quarq DZero + crankset with 30mm axle that I currently mount on my Cervélo R3 which has a BBRight (79mm) bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information you want to give me!
As your current crank is most likely a BB30 you can't use that with BSA bottom bracket as the spindle is to short
Downhill it seems to pick up speed fast. Though my setup is a bit sketchy since I prefer 25c tires and 34cm bars. I might slam my stem later on for lower center of gravity + more stability, but I currently have a few spacers installed.
SPcycle seems to be the bare minimum type vendor. I've bought from them before, so I knew what to expect. I only went with the R088 because it matched my specs and price-wise during the 11.11/Black Friday sales it was cheaper than any of the SL8 clones with coupon codes combined.
I have no clue if SPcycle or anyone else is the OEM for the frame. So far though, I've done a few hard rides and it holds up fine. The assembly of this bike was a bit more finicky with all the slim internals. In comparison, my recent Ceccotti RF25 gravel build was a breeze to assemble.
I checked, buying an SL8 rubber cover doesn't seem that expensive, like $7 USD. There's nothing exotic about the R088 head tube design, you can probably use any off-the-shelf integrated bar. I'm guessing that might have been part of the decision to modify the head tube.
Aren't BBRight BBs all pressfit? Not sure I'd use a 30mm axle in a threaded BSA BB, but there's probably threaded 30mm BB options available.
Hi, thanks for the replies.
So, handlebar height aside, you still find it stable and "safe", right?
Yes, a rubber cover for the seat post block won't cost much, but for this reason I would have expected it to be included... as well as rubber plugs for the holes for mechanical groupset.
The BBRight bottom bracket is press fit...I was just wondering if the BB30 axle on the Quarq DZero+ crankset was long enough to be used with this frame...maybe I'll try to talk to my trusted mechanic.
If you're dedicated to your 30mm crankset, I would just opt for a T47 frameset. The good thing is that your bearings won't be smaller trying to fit a larger crankset axle and you'll have the serviceability of a threaded BB. Though not many sub 800g aero-ish framesets with T47!
If you're dedicated to your 30mm crankset, I would just opt for a T47 frameset. The good thing is that your bearings won't be smaller trying to fit a larger crankset axle and you'll have the serviceability of a threaded BB. Though not many sub 800g aero-ish framesets with T47!
Why would the bearing size be smaller for a BSA bottom bracket than a T47 bottom bracket - the bearing sits outside the frame?
Looking at a few listings most brands use 6806 bearings which is exactly what you'd use if you're pressing it in. It's different if you're pressing in 30mm cranks into a BB86 press fit bottom bracket (needs smaller bearings because not enough room) but BSA should be the same size. Welcome to be corrected if I'm wrong.
This frame ticks a lot of boxes and your build looks absolutely beautiful. I'm not saying i regret getting a Velobuild 268 but my brain is heavily trying to convince me to turn the VB into a dedicated zwift bike and get the R088. I really like that you can run pretty much any handlebars or stem due to the shape of the head tube.
Just for clarification: You ordered the bike in black and selected the glossy option is that correct? Because i think the raw carbon look under the clear coat looks amazing on this frame.
Feel free to correct me, maybe I’m wrong! I just presumed the bearings were smaller when using 30mm axles in threaded BSA bottom brackets. I remember watching a Hambini video where he made a big stink about 30mm axles on bsa bottom brackets.
I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
Can you post the Aliexpress link?
Thank you
More than devoted to the crankset, I would like to reuse the Quarq power meter without having to buy a new one....
I think you are mixing BB86 and BSA. In BB86 the bearings are inside the frame, so the outer diameter is limited by the frame and you would indeed have to use tiny bearings for a 29-30mm axle.
Since BSA bearings are outside the frame, you could just make the cups bigger to accommodate bigger bearings...
... Or so I think... ;D
I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
@jonathanf2 two more questions:
1. can you tell me the name of those handlebars? I'm also planning to go with a bar and stem combo and those handlebars look really good
2. in a previous post you said you applied protective decals to your frame. do you have a link for those or did you just use generic adhesive wrap?
Dear All:
Have a nice day.
In November 2024, we released SP-R088. This is a light weight disc brake road frame. This frame is made of EPS technology and we provide 6 sizes: 44/49/52/54/56/58.
Now share some picture and information to this forum members.
Any interesting of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
For SP-R088 some inforamtion listed:
Frame available sizes: 44*49/52/54/56/58
Headset Size: Upper 52mm, Lower 52mm
Bottom bracket: BSA thread, BB shell width 68mm
Rear derailleur hanger: UDH
Seatpost: Special, length 380mm
Brake: Flat Mount Disc Brake, 140/160mm Rotor
Maximum tire clearance: 700*32C
Cable: Full Hidden Internal Cable Routing
Axle Spec: Rear 142*12mm and front 100*12mm
Suitable Derailleur: Di2 And Mechanical Both
Weight: Size 52 Matt Black, Frame 780g(excluding metal accessories), Fork 390g , Seatpost 190g
Many thanks.
David
Just curious, what is the price of a UD glossy finish? Same as black?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008125947180.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.73775c5f9LKVMy&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
So find a used gxp set of crankarms and sell your bb30 after swapping over the spider.
Okay I think you're right. I believe the complaints are in regards to SRAM DUB threaded BBs according to this WW post:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166 (https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166)
It depends on the crankset - pretty sure all the SRAM 8-bolt cranks that are labelled as BB30 are actually BB386 (so will work with a BSA30 bottom bracket).
@jonathanf2 could you post a photo of your R88 from the same perspective as the attached image (refers to the Seraph X68 frame)?
It seems like the seatstays are narrower than on the X68 and the original SL8...
They look similar to me. Here's a shot from over the weekend. :)
I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
@jonathanf2 two more questions:
1. can you tell me the name of those handlebars? I'm also planning to go with a bar and stem combo and those handlebars look really good
2. in a previous post you said you applied protective decals to your frame. do you have a link for those or did you just use generic adhesive wrap?
It's probably the perspective that is deceiving, but the fixing point of the seatstays of the SL8 seems further apart.
Thank you
R088 lookS like the Tarmac SL6
Unfortunately I missed the moment....currently on Aliexpress there are no coupons and discounts on shipping costs, so it is better to buy directly from Spcycle....even if the price is not so advantageous and (so they told me) there is no possibility of paying with Paypal in 3 installments.
While waiting to get all the components and choose the paint (I am very undecided on the color), I hope that some other interesting offer pops up....otherwise I could re-evaluate the Seraph TT-X68, even if it is a 1:1 copy of the SL8 and I would prefer a frame that is more different in shape.
You should have choice day early next month. Also next month is the anniversary. Not sure it will be worth it though as prices are scalling up in china and lowering in the western brands
for discounts it is ALI, they are put periodically.
Regarding free shipping..be careful because in this mode it is very easy to run into customs and pay up to 48% more taxes, it is always advisable to agree with the seller or choose default XBD shipping with prepaid taxes, this to have a final purchase price without surprises
R088 lookS like the Tarmac SL6
Honestly, I don't seem to see a price reduction on Western frames (or at least not in my area)....except for finding some end-of-series offers, but in these cases you have to be lucky enough to find the desired frame, in the desired color and the correct size....rare and unique opportunities.
In my opinion, an Eastern frame with a (finished) cost of 600/800€ can still have its reason to be, since an equivalent Western frame can easily cost at least triple, or a little less.... just look at the prices that some OEM frames reach, rebranded and sold by Western manufacturers with their logo.
It's probably the perspective that is deceiving, but the fixing point of the seatstays of the SL8 seems further apart.
Thank you
I understand and I'm not sure where you are but one can have a Merida 5000 team replica with shimano 105 di2 for less than 2.2K. There are MMR even cheaper. And if you go to mechanical 105 you can find deals of 1.6k. Sometimes u just need to take a look around all the local shops. Yes, you have to search. But I see these deals quite often. And if you want higher end discounts from rp can go as high as 3k and more.
All in all, There is place for all. One should get what they like the most. But that doesn't mean is the most rational ejej
I'm looking at my frame right now, seat stays look identical to the SL8. That photo makes it look larger than it is. That back end is narrow and those seat stays are skinny.
Hi, I don't remember if I asked you this already: did you close the holes for the mechanical group cable passage?
If so, what did you use and where did you buy it?
Thanks
Are you talking about the mechanical FD hole? I ended up using that hole for my ER9 battery cable instead of the hole behind the FD hanger, because it required less convoluted cable routing. If water gets into that hole, there's another drain hole at the bottom of the frame so not a big deal.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
I recently received the frame. I liked the ud matte, it looks better than in the photos. Unfortunately, the axle from the kit is too long and does not fit. The design of the udh holder does not allow the use of longer axles. The axle is 167.5 mm. Spcycle agreed to compensate for the costs of a new 165 mm axle.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
Yes, I am referring to the FD hole (highlighted in red in the attached photo) and RD hole.
When you have time and desire, would you post a photo to see the final result?
Thanks
There's not much to look at. Basically the ER9 FD battery port is positioned in such a way that I found it easier to route from the mechanical FD hole so the cable goes straight up. Using this hole makes it easier for me to pull up the ER9 battery from the seat tube. Also the FD/RD cables are situated by the BB making everything more tidy.
If running Di2 the situation might be different and it wouldn't be an issue with AXS or Wheeltop.
I recently received the frame. I liked the ud matte, it looks better than in the photos. Unfortunately, the axle from the kit is too long and does not fit. The design of the udh holder does not allow the use of longer axles. The axle is 167.5 mm. Spcycle agreed to compensate for the costs of a new 165 mm axle.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by axle.
Looking at the photos, it seems like a paint defect....have you already reported the problem to Spcycle?
EDIT: Could you measure the diameter of the FD/RD holes for the mechanical group? Thanks
All clear, thank you.
So if I wanted to close the FD/RD holes, where could I find plugs of the right size?
I don't have a caliper at home. I measured with a ruler, I can't say that it is accurate , but these are both holes about 5-6 mm in diameter. I wrote to spcycle and they replied: "Hi Friend, This is not a crack. This is an oversight by the painter. You can install the BB and cranks to test."
I ordered the bottom bracket, but I don't have the cranks to test right now. I think such deep cracks in the paint are not normal.
The photo shows the length of the thru axle that delivered with the frame. It doesn't fit the frame because of the udh hanger design. I have to put two washers and everything works fine. Jonathan, what was the length of your rear thru axle?
Since I am seriously interested in the R088 frame, I'll try to ask here: could you recommend me some BCD110 and 5-hole chainrings compatible with Sram AXS 12V groupsets (flat-top chain)?
Thanks
Anything from Stone or Pass Quest is your best option. :)
Pass Quest and Stone are up there with UNO stems as reliable go-to items on AliEx. ;)
Hi, any updates on your R088?
Have you done any other road rides and/or do you have any other details to share with us?
My frame arrived today. Ordered january 27th, shipped february 15th and received february 27th. One month total with chinese new year in between. Not bad i would say.
Frame looks really good so far. Internals look clean and no clear coat overspray. I am running 105 di2 and i mounted the battery below the seatpost. I can get the seat down to a height of around 72cm. It might just fit, the first test rides will show. If i have to go lower with the seat i gotta figure something else out. Either cut the seatpost or store the battery in the downtube. We will see.
I just transfer the parts from my velobuild vb r 268, final build will be as following:
Spcycle R088 frame
105 Di2
Elite wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Magene PES P505
Uno alloy bars and stem (might upgrade in the future)
For a second there, I thought I was looking at my bike! ;D
Are you using the Di2 battery clip with the seat post or just wedging the battery into the tube? I had to cut mine a few centimeters to fit the seat post and battery with LTwoo ER9. On an AXS or Wheeltop groupset, cutting the seat post wouldn't be necessary and I would have been fine with the stock seat post height. Also did you ask for a matte seat post? I forgot to mention (to SPcycle) if I wanted matte or glossy on my seat post, so they just made it glossy with the rest of my frame. ???
No issues, rides fine! I do rotate which bikes I ride though (2 road, 1 gravel). One thing I do notice is that the front fork is somewhat beefy. It tends to absorb road chatter very well in conjunction with my tubeless setup. I'm running 25c tubeless tires, and even on bumpy roads, things feel a bit more muted compared to my other road frame with the same size tubeless tires.
My frame arrived today. Ordered january 27th, shipped february 15th and received february 27th. One month total with chinese new year in between. Not bad i would say.
Frame looks really good so far. Internals look clean and no clear coat overspray. I am running 105 di2 and i mounted the battery below the seatpost. I can get the seat down to a height of around 72cm. It might just fit, the first test rides will show. If i have to go lower with the seat i gotta figure something else out. Either cut the seatpost or store the battery in the downtube. We will see.
I just transfer the parts from my velobuild vb r 268, final build will be as following:
Spcycle R088 frame
105 Di2
Elite wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Magene PES P505
Uno alloy bars and stem (might upgrade in the future)
Looking at the photos, the fork legs seem sturdy....but if this does not translate into excessive rigidity while riding the bike on the road, well, I would say excellent result.
Don't you think?
Are you in Australia?
I have no idea why the pictures are always upside down in the preview. As soon as you click on the preview they are normal haha.Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
Update on my build: I put the battery in the seattube and cut the seatpost a few centimeters. The battery is pretty much stuck in there now wasn't really able to get it out. But that's a problem of my future self. Right now i don't really need to access it.
I bled the brakes which worked like a charm. I have some slight brake rub in the rear but it's really not substantial. Absolutely no rubbing in the front.
The bike shifts well so far but i will fine tune it over the weekend. I also added bartape and once again did a horrible job.
Bike is ready to ride but my body is not. Can't wait to put some miles on it.
Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cmI have the same height as you and I chose size 54, I wouldn't go smaller. Although Primoz Roglic rides on a frame size 52 and his height is 177 cm. I went to the specialized website and entered my anthropometric data there and according to these data, 54 suited me.
you can see carbon fibres on the paint, i noticed the same thing on my easedon wheels when i shine a light on them
So you chose Color=Black color, Finish=Matte? Anyone know if that means it still receives a clear protective coat, just no color added so that the carbon can be seen? Or is there no clear coat added if you make that selection?
I have another information regarding the seatpost situation. So i checked the product description again and size 44/49/52 get shipped with a 300mm seatpost and the larger sizes with 380mm seatpost. So theoretically you could just ask them to ship your e.g. 54 frame with a 300mm seatpost and depending on your saddle height you should be able to fit a di2 battery without cutting anything. This obviously has it's limits since running a 58 with a 300mm seatpost might not be safe to use but on a 58 frame the battery probably fits even with the 380mm seatpost.
I went for a really short first test ride yesterday. It was around 25 minutes just flat and zero intensity but the bike felt good so far. There are some really annoying bumps on the path i've ridden and the bike absorbed them pretty well even at 72 psi tire pressure. No rattling, no weird noise, no headset play, no slipping seatpost. Absolutely no issues. The only modification i did after the ride was cutting the fork steerer tube to run a more reasonable amount of spacers and get rid of that chimney. Of course that's just a first impression and doesn't guarantee that there won't be any issues down the line.
I have another information regarding the seatpost situation. So i checked the product description again and size 44/49/52 get shipped with a 300mm seatpost and the larger sizes with 380mm seatpost. So theoretically you could just ask them to ship your e.g. 54 frame with a 300mm seatpost and depending on your saddle height you should be able to fit a di2 battery without cutting anything. This obviously has it's limits since running a 58 with a 300mm seatpost might not be safe to use but on a 58 frame the battery probably fits even with the 380mm seatpost.
Just wanted to point out that there are two sizes of seatpost available and in your individual situation it might be worth it to ask them to ship a larger frame with a 300mm seatpost.
So you chose Color=Black color, Finish=Matte? Anyone know if that means it still receives a clear protective coat, just no color added so that the carbon can be seen? Or is there no clear coat added if you make that selection?If you choose matte they will send ud matte, through the coating you will see carbon and it looks very good for me personally. With glossy the same, maybe I'm wrong
For all SP-R088 owners: how does the frame/bike feel when sprinting hard? Do you think that lightness is a liability?
Hi, can I ask you saddle height and photo of the bike with current handlebar height?
Thank you
I confirm what you said about the length of the supplied seat post, and I confirm that it is possible to request a 300mm length even for large size frames, if necessary.
While waiting for further reviews/updates from users of this R088, could you help me choose the color for a possible new frame?
I had some "real" photos of the various metallic colors sent to me....at the moment I'm undecided between: color 4 (gray), color 8 (silver), and color 7 (red).
I went for another ride today (finally getting healthy again) but unfortunately missed to take a picture outside. So here's one for you from the inside. Saddle height is 71 cm. The fork is cut on that picture and i'm still running a generous amount of spacers. Just the spacers under the stem measure 2.4 cm.
(https://i.imgur.com/ICuv97P.jpeg)
It rides really well and i felt comfortable on the bike. I'm not gonna pretend that i know a ton about how a bike feels when riding i didn't ride that many different bikes before to give a detailed opinion. I'm not an expert by any means. I've had a Velobuild 268 before and geometry wise they are pretty similar. I had a rather short 90mm stem on the Velobuild and a 90mm stem on the R088 as well but the R088 still felt slightly more stable and a little less twitchy. I'm not 100% sure if this is true or just my imagination though. This ride was also just on the flat and i didn't go really fast.
Can't wait to attack my home climb (4.4 km with 300 m of elevation) to see the bikes climbing capabilities and send it down the descend afterwards to see how it handles higher speeds.
I've gone ahead and ordered an R088 54cm in matte white. I would have gone for one of the more aero frames had most of them not had crazy long wheelbases. For some reason a lot of these Aeroad, Ostro clones add >10 mm to the wheelbase (relative to the original frame) which should be very noticeable. Though I no longer race crits, I'd still like to have a bike that feels agile.
Not totally sold on matte vs glossy white just yet, anyone have strong opinions either way?
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
Personally i prefer glossy but i think that's just personal preference. I'm not 100% sure but i could imagine that dust sticks to a matte surface a little easier and a glossy frame would be easier to clean. Not sure though. My Velobuild VB 268 is pearl white glossy. You can check it out i posted it in the VB 268 thread.
Regarding my R088: I did another ride today. 30 km with around 500 m of elevation. I felt really comfortable climbing. When descending the bike was really fast. My brother rode next to me on my gravel bike almost spinning out and i was just rolling there comfortably. I think the 50 mm wheels play a part in that. The route contains a very rough segment. The strava segment is called "Höllenritt" which literally translates to hellride. It's a -7% descent over the worst road imaginable. Lots of potholes and cracks and overall damaged pavement. If your bike can handle that it can handle literally anything else. And i gotta say the bike handled it really well. The frame and especially the fork seems to absorb a good portion of the bumps. It still feels rough obviously as it's a roadbike but i never had the feeling of losing control over the bike. Really happy with the ride feel overall.
Also managed to take a picture with the bike in the sun, making the carbon layup really stand out:
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
I can confirm that metallic red looks really good.
I have a different frame (R065) but the color should be the same.
I received the frame yesterday. The paint job is O.k. but the trained I can see some inhomogenities. If this is from little uneveness in the carbon below or due to uniform paint thickness I can not tell.
Nice build!
How do you like riding this frame compared to VB-R 268? Do you feel significant difference?
Personally i prefer glossy but i think that's just personal preference. I'm not 100% sure but i could imagine that dust sticks to a matte surface a little easier and a glossy frame would be easier to clean. Not sure though. My Velobuild VB 268 is pearl white glossy. You can check it out i posted it in the VB 268 thread.
Regarding my R088: I did another ride today. 30 km with around 500 m of elevation. I felt really comfortable climbing. When descending the bike was really fast. My brother rode next to me on my gravel bike almost spinning out and i was just rolling there comfortably. I think the 50 mm wheels play a part in that. The route contains a very rough segment. The strava segment is called "Höllenritt" which literally translates to hellride. It's a -7% descent over the worst road imaginable. Lots of potholes and cracks and overall damaged pavement. If your bike can handle that it can handle literally anything else. And i gotta say the bike handled it really well. The frame and especially the fork seems to absorb a good portion of the bumps. It still feels rough obviously as it's a roadbike but i never had the feeling of losing control over the bike. Really happy with the ride feel overall.
Also managed to take a picture with the bike in the sun, making the carbon layup really stand out:
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
Are you in Europe?
Yes, germany. Why?
Before I order the wheels I was wondering if anyone has a photo of the wheel/tyre clearance both front and rear? I know it says 32c but what is the clearance like?
Thanks
I took some pictures for you. I‘m running 28 mm tires but as you can see they actually measure 30.9 mm. As you can see on the picture there’s around 3 mm clearance between tire and chainstays (non drive side). On the drive side there’s slightly more clearance. Fork and seatstays offer >1 cm of clearance.
That's amazing thanks! I was thinking of the 33mm wide xmcarbonspeed rims - do you think they would be too wide?
The more I ride the R088, the more I enjoy the nimbleness of this bike. Mine is near the 6.8kg mark (on my climbing wheels) with full pedals, bottle cages, power meter, etc. I'm quite happy with this build considering it's budget oriented and I haven't even gone hardcore weight weenie. It's closer to 7kg on my cheaper 45mm depth wheelset, though honestly I don't notice a difference when riding.
My bike isn’t as light as yours as i‘m using a deep 50 mm wheelset and the heavier Magene cranks but i still fully relate to this. The bike feels really good. Took mine for another ride today:
I also ordered Magene PM plus cracks and rings in 170. Now I'm thinking maybe I should've just gotten the PM and gone with a lighter crank in 165. Price of the full setup with 52-36 rings was too tempting at the time tho.
Our bikes look like siblings! Lol I bet both our bikes ride similar. I'm putting at least 800w during certain casual sprint segments and I've yet to experience any BB creaking or issues with stiffness. As far as I'm concerned, this bike is rock solid.
Also I do prefer deeper dish wheels, but I have so much climbing in my area, I just opted to get the lightest wheels I could get (at a reasonable price). I notice the performance of these wheels when accelerating on climbs going out of saddle, but for general riding they're not as fast on the flats. I believe I can hold speed better on my 45mm depth wheelset despite being heavier. I swap the wheels every so often just to mix it up.
Climbing in Germany?? Does that mean you're in the Bavarian region, near the Alps? I miss my more-hilly routes from when I lived in San Diego. Mostly short and punchy climbs where I live in Ohio.
Climbing in Germany?? Does that mean you're in the Bavarian region, near the Alps? I miss my more-hilly routes from when I lived in San Diego. Mostly short and punchy climbs where I live in Ohio.
No i live in the taunus area. We don't have the steep and long climbs like in the alpes but a lot of shorter climbs. It's pretty hilly overall. I will be doing the Eschborn-Frankfurt race for example this year which has a route of 103 km and 1500 m of elevation.Just wanted to say hi to a neighbour in Taunus. I am following this thread since I am thinking about ordering a 088 frame, mainly thinking about the colour (white with black custom decals probably)…maybe we meet each other in one of our rides or at Eschborn-Frankfurt :) Greetings!
+1 for Franfurt Eschborn. In which category should we start a thread to meet a the race ?Seems like the chinertown community at the race is larger than I expected :D
The more I ride the R088, the more I enjoy the nimbleness of this bike. Mine is near the 6.8kg mark (on my climbing wheels) with full pedals, bottle cages, power meter, etc. I'm quite happy with this build considering it's budget oriented and I haven't even gone hardcore weight weenie. It's closer to 7kg on my cheaper 45mm depth wheelset, though honestly I don't notice a difference when riding.
Which bottle cages did you and Tilmanstoa5ty order? Do they grip the bottles tightly?
Seems like the chinertown community at the race is larger than I expected :D
Probably somewhere in the off-topic area or shoot me a message/mail.
Do you think there would be any issue using integrated bars on the R088? Had ordered TOSEEK bars, that order was auto cancelled, so searching again for a good set.
Only reason I opted for UD glossy is that my last SPCycle frameset had so-so paint. My other UD glossy frameset seemed to fare better from regular ride wear. I attached a photo they sent me with the frame on the scale.It seems that my frame is shipping soon--did they send photos of the frame on request or automatically?
Ditto, better we meet up for the "Feldbergkönig" - Chinertown Community Ride?Did that last year so happy to do that again this year :)
Do you think there would be any issue using integrated bars on the R088? Had ordered TOSEEK bars, that order was auto cancelled, so searching again for a good set.Have you looked at their HB-05 or HB-053 integrated handlebar?
It seems that my frame is shipping soon--did they send photos of the frame on request or automatically?
I don't remember if it's already been said: what are the dimensions of the two headset bearings?
Both 52mm.52mm I guess is the external diameter.....I would also need to know the internal diameter and height, and if they are "flared" or not (internal/external corner).
52mm I guess is the external diameter.....I would also need to know the internal diameter and height, and if they are "flared" or not (internal/external corner).
Thanks
They just seem like the off-the-shelf 52mm headset bearings you can get for any AliEx frameset. ;)So these could be ok?
So these could be ok?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bike-parts-mountain-bike-bicycle-headset-bearing-only-repair-bearings-for-28-6-44mm-30mm-40mm-steel-41-41-8-47-49-52mm?_pos=3&_sid=ca7ecac03&_ss=r
Because I saw that there are some bearings 7mm high, while others 8mm, or the angles change: the ZTTO model of the link has both 45° angles, other models 36°/45°.
Since in the shop where I work we sell SKF bearings, I wanted to know if we have them too.
I was hesitating between this and the TT x68, but will most likely go with r088 because of the current sale on Ali. Any recommendations of integrated Bars from Ali as well? Other than hb-05.
Besides the slightly different head tube design, it's practically the same thing as the other SL8 clones with some added features and less weight. At the current sale price + coupons it's practically a no brainer. Unless someone really want a fake SL8 bike! ;D
Thank you for the reply.So I guess the below bar would fit?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtl3kyJ
Every time I've bought Kocevlo bars they arrive damaged, requiring me to return them. I've had much better luck buying from Balugoe. I've bought mainly their ultra narrow non-integrated bars. Though their latest integrated bar looks quite good. I'd go with these in the sub-$100 USD price point.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html)
I was hesitating between this and the TT x68, but will most likely go with r088 because of the current sale on Ali. Any recommendations of integrated Bars from Ali as well? Other than hb-05.I also looked on Aliexpress, and it actually seems to be the best offer on R088 at the moment (even better than Alibaba).
I also looked on Aliexpress, and it actually seems to be the best offer on R088 at the moment (even better than Alibaba).
However, I don't understand the adjustment of the shipping/duty costs (I selected Seller's Shipping Method):
"Price Adjustment - Orders shipped from outside of EU with a goods value above EUR150 will be subject to VAT upon importation into the EU. The price of your order has been adjusted to reflect a later collection of VAT at the customs. You are encouraged to confirm the logistics and tax payment arrangement (for VAT, duties, agent fees, etc.) with the seller."
So there will be some duty/tax to pay, or not?
So it seems that a SL8 handlebar won't do on the frame since they come with shaped headset cover. We absolutely need round headset cover with our frames (like the one that comes with kocevlo). Is that correct?
It's like this: You pay for the shipping + prepaid tax (usually about 150-200EUR). When you check-out the VAT will be deducted. You will not have to pay extra tax or VAT (if all goes well).
Can you share the link so we can check?
So it seems that a SL8 handlebar won't do on the frame since they come with shaped headset cover. We absolutely need round headset cover with our frames (like the one that comes with kocevlo). Is that correct?I don't want to be wrong, but in my opinion you can mount any handlebar on R088, even the SL8 one....but probably not the original headset cover.
I attach a screenshot.
I tried asking David (Spcycle) about it, and his response was:
"If you choose the seller shipping method, we will use DPD shipping to deliver the frame to your address. You do not need to clear customs and pay any customs fees".
Sorry to ask....do you think I can proceed without the risk of finding myself paying something?I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
I'm not very familiar with shopping on Aliexpress, and it would be the first time I've bought items over €150.
Thanks
I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
I don't want to be wrong, but in my opinion you can mount any handlebar on R088, even the SL8 one....but probably not the original headset cover.
The doubt came to me because with the Aliexpress "price adjustment" the DPD shipment would cost the same as a standard shipment (without prepaid duties)....from what they wrote (see attachment), I understand that they "adjusted" the shipping cost and the VAT will have to be collected at customs, so in the end the final cost will be higher than the price of the order.
The price adjustment is due to EU forcing Ali etc to pay VAT for products below 150€. Above 150€ VAT is displayed in the offer, but will be deducted later ("price adjustment"). For the products above 150€ customs and VAT would have to be paid by customer.
With sellers shipping method the seller takes care of customs and VAT. Hence the higher price for the shipment
I clicked the button... :D
I am pretty sure that the headset cover that comes with the handlebar needs to be round. It's also the part that attaches to the stem spacers
The elita one sl8 on Ali seems to be coming with 2 different covers. I am waiting for better pictures from the seller.
Congrats! We look forward to your build in the next 1-2 months! ;D ;)
I clicked the button... :D
What do you think of this handlebar?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006453962015.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
I am very tempted by this frame during the current Aliexpress sale. Been following this thread and the TanTan X68 with interest.
What is the primary difference between the 2 frames? Are they identical except this frame has UDH? TanTan also comes with handlebar. Are there any other differences at all? Is the build quality comparable? Thanks
This one has UDH and is supposedly EPS molded in one piece versus having the front and rear frames being bonded later
What's your source as to the nature of the x68 build?
I asked Tantan/seraph if it was one piece molded and they said no.
The two halves are EPS molded and then bonded together
Do we know for sure that the R088 is one piece EPS molded? Also, pardon my ignorance but is there a drawback to the way TanTan does it?
I rebuilt my older aero'ish SPCycle R027D framesets from storage and while it's heavier built up (7.5kg vs 6.84kg), it's definitely a much faster bike. Unless steep climbing is a factor in daily riding, I wouldn't be so caught up in bike weights and modern layup techniques. Some of these older non-EPS carbon bikes are built tough and stiff.
Have you compared with the same equipments ans watts ?
I don't know anything about these bars but i would highly recommend to only buy an integrated cockpit when you figured out your fit 100%. Alloy stem and bars (UNO for the win) on Aliexpress are very affordable and you can easily change them when you aren't happy with your fit. Once you are happy you can still upgrade.On an Italian forum I found a couple of reviews where they speak really well of it.
Thank you for the reply.So I guess the below bar would fit?This handlebar looks the same as the Kocevlo you posted.... ::)
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtl3kyJ
Congrats! We look forward to your build in the next 1-2 months! ;D ;)I received notification that the frame has already been shipped.....it should arrive April 8th! :o
This handlebar looks the same as the Kocevlo you posted.... ::)
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006840212282.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
Yes it seems to be the exact same. I ended up buying the SL8 copy from elita one. They sent pictures of the headset covers and one of them is round. It should fit the r088.Do you mean this?
Anyone have any experience with paint jobs from Spcycle other than the UD glossy/matte coatings? All the pics i have seen have been UD coatings.
Just received my R088 frame in 54cm glossy white.
Anyone tried to fit a mechanical yet? I either buy LTwoo r9 now or wait for er9 to be back in stock with 80 designer store on Ali. I live in Canada and they are the only store shipping to us with reasonable price.
Anyone have any experience with paint jobs from Spcycle other than the UD glossy/matte coatings? All the pics i have seen have been UD coatings.When in doubt, I preferred to order the raw frame and paint it locally....I will spend more than their painting but, in addition to being able to choose the color and graphics, I will have the certainty of a perfect job.
Okay I guess I was wrong. The rear thru axle supplied with my R088 does not fit properly. ::) I only noticed it when swapping wheelsets. At first I thought it was an issue with the rear wheel freehub I was using, but it's the actual thru axle. The one supplied by SPCycle is 167.5mm long, and I swapped it for a 168mm 1.0p thru axle using a thicker conical shaped washer. Once swapped the whole rear assembly was much stiffer. The rear TA supplied by SPCycle had play in the wheel.Was your rear thru axle identical to this one? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LD65PxCbt3o6ozryHz9ngNHF48U9xmGN/view?usp=drivesdk
Was your rear thru axle identical to this one? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LD65PxCbt3o6ozryHz9ngNHF48U9xmGN/view?usp=drivesdk
SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)No good! :(
SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)It's not the length of the axle that is the problem, but the length of the thread. Looks like the original has only 15mm of thread and the new one has 19mm of thread. So that would mean the original runs out of thread before the wheel is tight...
SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)Seems like tidydinosaur might be right and that spcycle should send a replacement part...
Seems like tidydinosaur might be right and that spcycle should send a replacement part...
Well, considering the price of an axle I would not bother and just get one myself. Or get a thicker washer...Ok, a thru axle won't cost a fortune, but if there's a widespread problem with a component that comes with the frame, then the manufacturer should fix it.
12x168mm 19L 1.0P thru axles seem like the best option that I've seen so far. 15mm thread length is too short. I even tried a 160mm TA with 19L and that even locked the wheel in-place. I think SPcycle didn't properly think things through when they adapted the SL8 knock-off frame swapping the RD hanger to UDH. ::)
Where we can get one? I was thinking of taking advantage of the alix discounts to buy the R088 frame, so that would be super useful :)Jonathan has an Amazon link about ten messages above. But ali has some too
Is this only a problem on older frames? Because mine is fairly new and i don't seem to have any problems. There's no play on the rear wheel. Or i might need to check again
Check your frame, it's possible you have a flat thru axle non-drive side hole. Mine and a few of us early adopters have the older TA hole which requires the conical washer/spacer.
I talked to SPcycle last night on AliEx messenging (well night for me) and they told that they are supplying multiple washers on current frames. They have already updated the frameset mold on newer frames to have a flat/flush hole instead. Anyways, I did try adding a thicker washer on the original thru axle, which did not work. It could indeed be an issue with not enough thread.Does the photo detailing the modification concern the external or internal part of the frame?
Also it is not a torque issue, the only reason I even noticed this issue was due to finding out I had play on the freehub of my second wheelset. It was driving me crazy, making me think it was the freehub and not the frameset! I also have other frames to compare with, so I was able to compare the bikes to see that it was indeed an issue with the R088 thru axle.
I've informed SPCycle that I'm relaying all the information from our chat on this thread. So hopefully they'll be a bit more attentive. I've attached the photos they've provided in regards to washers and the modified mold.
12x168mm 19L 1.0P thru axles seem like the best option that I've seen so far. 15mm thread length is too short. I even tried a 160mm TA with 19L and that even locked the wheel in-place. I think SPcycle didn't properly think things through when they adapted the SL8 knock-off frame swapping the RD hanger to UDH. ::)I tried to search, but I'm having trouble finding 168mm long thru axles with 19mm thread....found instead with 15-16mm thread.
I tried to search, but I'm having trouble finding 168mm long thru axles with 19mm thread....found instead with 15-16mm thread.
Do you think it could work just as well?
Mine also uses conical spacers but with the spacers in place there doesn’t seem to be any play. I can measure the thread length of my thru axle to compare it with yours.
Received three conical spacers with my frame, used one on the rear wheel. Rear wheel seems secure on the stand, but let's see when I eventually get on the road.Hi,
Did you guys have to file out more of the exit hole for the front brake cable on the fork? I'm using the LTWOO ER9 group; unsure if other brands use different hose diameters. *Edit*: eventually got it through with some filing and probably most importantly some lube.
Waiting on cable routing kit and brake bleed kit to really go any further. Didn't have the forethought to order those when I ordered the frame. You'll have to excuse this luddite cyclist having come from rim brakes and external cables.
What bottom brackets did you guys fit to your R088s? Been a long time since I used a BSA style, but when I thread this one on it leaves a gap between the plastic conical insert and the right side cup/bearing.Unfortunately I can't help you...it will be my first time setting up a frame by myself! ;D
Can't remember if that is normal or if that piece is meant to be flush with both cups when they're screwed in. Can anyone weigh in?
This is the BB I ordered: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807448820970.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7a2e1802U3zjJY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Color: A-BSA-24(68 73MM)
I got the Elitewheels ENT disc 2.0 in 50 mm depth. First pair of disc wheels outside of a mtb for me and the extra work over rim brakes really makes me long for rim brakes a bit.The BB ZTTO should be fine in my case....I want to reuse the Quarq crankset (30mm diameter axle and 86mm length) with PM DZero that I mount on the current bike.
I got the same cable routing kit. I'd double check your BB though, looks like those are all BB30, same type as on my Cannondale (they developed it). Press-fit types like BB30 look much cleaner on the bike, but require special tools to press in both sides simultaneously and care that you don't seat them at an angle and ruin your frame. BSA are super easy to service--make sure you get the specific wrench to install. I've had mine since my previous road bike of about 15 years ago, an old Kestrel RT800. That bike had a lot of the same aero design elements of a lot of the modern aero bikes.
R088 uses the threaded Shimano style BSA 24mm BB in 68mm width. This article should help: https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/the-complete-guide-to-bottom-bracket-standards
I got the Elitewheels ENT disc 2.0 in 50 mm depth. First pair of disc wheels outside of a mtb for me and the extra work over rim brakes really makes me long for rim brakes a bit.
How many spacers did you receive, my frame only came with 1 spacer. Just to confirm, you received the 167.5mm 15mm thread thru axle?
I have a buddy who weighs around 109kg/240lbs. There's just no way I'd fit him on a bike like R088. He'd probably be better off on a more sturdier endurance style frameset.
Yes it seems to be the exact same. I ended up buying the SL8 copy from elita one. They sent pictures of the headset covers and one of them is round. It should fit the r088.Hi, let me know when you have the handlebars in your hands, I need to ask you some questions.
Tend to agree. I am 100kg and that just seems like a risk.
Hi, let me know when you have the handlebars in your hands, I need to ask you some questions.
Thanks
Well the seller cancelled the order. I ordered the balugoe oneWas the seller Elita One? Why did they cancel the order?
Was the seller Elita One? Why did they cancel the order?
Is this the handlebar you ordered?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008269422916.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.27.23a9DkPHDkPHv0&algo_pvid=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872&algo_exp_id=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872-13&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%229%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21118.59%2193.69%21%21%21125.03%2198.78%21%40211b813f17433406006452891ed619%2112000044430962099%21sea%21IT%214842187332%21X&curPageLogUid=028AF35F8pTS&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Just an information, after how many days did they ship the frame purchased from aliexpress? :)
Anyone else find that the fork has a gap with the headtube with the lower race installed?
Having problems getting seatpost+LTWOO battery with holder inserted into seat tube. It's too tight, I think because of the extra bulk of the plastic holder.
Also using tape to keep it all together. Not sure why LTWOO doesn't use lock-by-turn plugs so that they don't fall out when pulling out. Also the SPcycle holder is too small for the LTWOO battery at least--bulges and barely stays in on its own, thus the tape.
May have to eventually just drop the battery down, maybe put a hook on it so I can fish it out later when needed.
SP's is same design as this, but perhaps smaller inner diameter: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806263308565.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=61037813780&aff_fcid=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EIdKITI&aff_platform=default&sk=_EIdKITI&aff_trace_key=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&shareId=61037813780&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=aa57a25db6e94e51a95f1e5c026e8ccb&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Anyone else find that the fork has a gap with the headtube with the lower race installed?
Without the bottom race the fork seems to rotate smoothly. Not sure if long term it would rub off the paint at the interface and becomes rougher, the paint being possibly the only thing making it a smooth turn.
Third photo is without the metal race. The steerer tube is definitely sloped at the fork--perhaps this is meant as an integrated crown race and they just included the separate metal race anyway?
Have been eying this frame and just ordered it. Pearl White in 58. Still debating about the other parts. Might opt for DI2 105. Or mechanical Ultegra.
I hope I won't regret it. My last China build was over 15 years ago and the frame gave me a lot of problems..
Did you guys use foam damper for the rear brake cable, or is it stable enough without it to not make any rattling or tapping noise over bumps?
Thanks :). Both you and Tilman were great inspirations to buy this frame. Although my Cube agree 2022 serves me well I was very much drawn to this frame. As you have said before; at this price it is probably a no brainer. Thinking of going with an integrated handlebar/stem combination. looking at the elita one Roval combination with elita branding.I just ordered it taking advantage of a flash offer....paid only 28,84 euros! :o
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008330025199.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.2.45f8kM4EkM4ENj&algo_pvid=28470eff-4c37-4f50-90ff-5dc9741cb216&algo_exp_id=28470eff-4c37-4f50-90ff-5dc9741cb216-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2217%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21137.98%2160.99%21%21%211059.75%21468.43%21%40211b61bb17434164170606365e8417%2112000044620831447%21sea%21DE%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=RN5cT1oULFhf&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
If i remember correctly i did use some. Doesn't really hurt and you don't want your bike to start rattling later and then do everything again.Do you have a model to recommend? Sorry, but I am completely inexperienced in frame assembly....this would be my first time! ;D
Do you have a model to recommend? Sorry, but I am completely inexperienced in frame assembly....this would be my first time! ;D
I just ordered it taking advantage of a flash offer....paid only 28,84 euros! :o
Used this one but any foam will work it‘s really just cheap foam, nothing magical hahaI had added it to my wish list and the price was around 80 euros...this morning when I saw that price, I rushed to order it immediately because it indicated only one item available...once I confirmed the order, the price went back to the previous one (almost 80 euros).
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuS4Dk4
How? For that price i‘m also getting one lol. For me it says around 70€
Feel free to read some of my earlier posts on this thread in regards to using the ER9 and fitting the battery holder in the R088. My solution was tying 2 long pieces of ribbon string on each end of the ER9 battery holder. Using ribbon string works the best because it stays buoyant with the string sliding straight into the seat post when set in place. I also used the mechanical hole for the FD battery cable since it was easier to position the cables towards the bottom bracket making it easier to fish out the battery from the seat tube for any maintenance issues. It was also necessary to trim the seat post a few centimeters to fit both the seat post and ER9 battery at least for my size 52cm frame. The seat tube is snug enough that the battery doesn't move, my seat post is at the right height and the battery can be pulled out easily with no problems.Here what I cooked up along those same lines. Haven't had a chance to try fitting it into the frame yet. Hopefully it fits without having to cut my 380mm seat post on my 54cm frame. I might also add some electrical tape for added security.
Private message me if you need any help! ;)
FYI - This is the message I wrote for the DEFINITIVE way to fit an ER9 battery into the R088 frameset!
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg72347.html#msg72347 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg72347.html#msg72347)
Here what I cooked up along those same lines. Haven't had a chance to try firing it into the frame yet. Hopefully it fits without having to cut my 380mm seat post on my 54cm frame. I might also add some electrical tape for added security.
Should the foam tube be applied along the entire length of the brake cable that remains inside the frame, or just in some specific points?
Thanks
Turns out it's the FD attachment plate screws that are blocking further insertion of the battery holder. If I back the top screw out, the seat post slides further down.
Can't find any matching but shorter screws in my collection. I could try shortening these particular screws as a lot of it is unused into the frame.
If only I knew what size and thread pitch these were I could look up some alternatives...
I had added it to my wish list and the price was around 80 euros...this morning when I saw that price, I rushed to order it immediately because it indicated only one item available...once I confirmed the order, the price went back to the previous one (almost 80 euros).
Should the foam tube be applied along the entire length of the brake cable that remains inside the frame, or just in some specific points?
Thanks
I ordered wheeltop groupset because I was tired of waiting for affordable er9 shipping to Canada. I also thought that I would not have to bother placing the battery in the seatpost!
You are really overthinking this ;D Just shove it in until you can’t and you are good to go.As I wrote, this is the first time I'll have to assemble a frame by myself, so I'd like to have everything I need at home before starting to build the frame....as well as knowing how to use it. ;D
These are the bottle cage screws I'm using with no issue. i can insert and remove my ER9 battery holder with no issue.I suppose the easiest thing would be to just cut the seat post as you did. Gonna make that the last resort if there's not enough space with proper saddle height.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806670442432.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806670442432.html)
On the bright side you already have another frameset owner who has pioneered this installation! When I was trying to figuring all of this out, I was about to give up and just order a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset! ;D
Photos of the build! As I mentioned previously, I can't ride the bike right now due to major fires in my area, so I can't comment on ride quality until things clear up. I've included close-ups of the UD glossy raw finish. In-person it looks like black marbling, similar to a bowling ball with similar finish! Also I pre-applied clear protection decals to certain areas of the frame. Some of the straight lines in the finish are from the protection decaling.
That stem/handlebar combo looks slick to be a non-integrated handlebar. I assume it is Uno stem, but what handlebar is that? And another thing - did the top cover for the headset come with the frame kit?
I suppose the easiest thing would be to just cut the seat post as you did. Gonna make that the last resort if there's not enough space with proper saddle height.
Just used the vernier calipers to get accurate measurements on the bolt. Haven't searched for these hex bolts in store before--anyone think Home Depot/Lowe's will carry a huge selection of these to find the right one?
Good source at this link, but would rather not wait for shipping: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804346937100.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Did you try sliding the battery holder around the cage bolts? It has to go in at a certain angle, but once you do that it goes all the way to the bottom. The ribbon string will allow you to pull it out for maintenance. If your seat post is still too long, cutting it isn't a big deal. It's just like cutting a fork steerer. Also I believe the R088 uses the same shape seat post as the SL8, there are quite a few aftermarket seat post on AliEx if you just want to get a shorter one and avoid cutting.Ya, it definitely needs that particular screw backed out to allow it down further. I even held the bike angled to let gravity pull the battery holder away from the bolt, no help. Got a tip to check Ace hardware for bolts/screws.
Ya, it definitely needs that particular screw backed out to allow it down further. I even held the bike angled to let gravity pull the battery holder away from the bolt, no help. Got a tip to check Ace hardware for bolts/screws.
I noticed you wrote bottle cage screws before... Maybe it was a mistype, but it's the FD screws further down causing the issue (the bottle cage screws are a different, bigger size). Can't take an adequate picture inside the frame with my camera for obvious reasons, but you can easily see it looking down the frame. The bottle cage screws don't protrude (at least with my frame) but the FD plate screws do; you can see them go into the frame void in the last 3 or so mm of travel. So if I can get an M2.5 screw that's about 10mm, that'd be the optimal screw for this frame.
Also I should add that I took out the top bottle cage screw and it made no difference to insertion depth. Also used a paperclip through that hole to try to guide the battery holder away and down, no help.
1st post but joined this forum looking for a more 'budget friendly' frame that I won't see on my regular club rides and will be suitable for cruising around the Chilterns in the UK.
After the feedback on here decided to get this frame.
My frame apparently departed 3 days ago, so should be in my hands soon, likely next week, with any luck.
Planned build:
R088 size large UD Glossy (liked this look a lot on others builds)
Ultegra R8020 shifters and R8070 brakes
GRX 812 derailleur
CSM8000 Cassette (11-42)
Dura Ace 9100 Crankset
Pass Quest 1x chain ring
Have all of the groupset parts together now.
for wheels I am thinking of these:
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/t1100-carbon-spokes-700c-tubeless-26mm-internal-wide-disc-brake-road-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelsets-with-20-20h-straight-through-version-hubs
Need payday to arrive before I bite the bullet on them.
Finishing kit wise need to see whether I want to run the elita one SL8 bars (which are in customs) or a separate stem/bars like I do on my other bikes.
Hoping once built that this is a fairly lightweight 'all rounder' type ride.
Not seen anyone build this frame with mechanical yet, so hoping that the one extra cable to route through the frame/bars is not too much of a ball ache.
Not seen anyone build this frame with mechanical yet, so hoping that the one extra cable to route through the frame/bars is not too much of a ball ache.
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your build! Mechanical shouldn’t be an issue. The bottom bracket area is quite tight but still enough space to run all the cables. If you are running separate bar and stem and use the headset cover that comes with the frame routing the cables through the headset shouldn’t be too difficult either.Thanks.
I didn't tie mine to the seat post, I used the ribbon only to pull it out of the seat tube. The ribbon makes it so you can pull the battery out with no hassle. Without the ribbon, I had to use a wire clothes hanger to push it out from the bottom bracket! :DHow'd you keep the ribbon near the top of the seat post? Taped to the frame at the top?
Also just to add more details about my procedure. I'd avoid any tape on the ER9/X battery holder because the seat tube is so tight. The only thing I added was rubber cement (with time to dry) after placing the battery cables into the battery holders for extra security. Once dried it adds a bit of bonding and it's easy to remove. I'm not fond of electrical tape, because after a prolonged period of time the adhesive gets gooey.
I had to cut my seat tube because it was too high with the battery installed. Without the battery I was able to adjust the height to size. If you have to cut the seat tube, I would cut conservatively until you get it down to the right height. I would also use fine grit sand paper after cutting to smooth out the edges.
How'd you keep the ribbon near the top of the seat post? Taped to the frame at the top?
Did you guys use carbon paste for your seat post to keep it in place? Some quick tests pushing on it with the little wedge thingy in there and it seems to slip with some pressure. No torque wrench yet though so uncertain how right it is, just going off feel
I am back with my headset cover questions. I received the frame today and measured the headset cover width. It's 58mm. The balugoe integrated bar seems to be 47mm wide. I though the width of headset covers was standard size. I am I wrong or will I have to ask balugoe if they have a 58mm wide headset cover?Yes, the Spcycle headset cover is 57.5mm wide...how wide is the frame's head tube?
Nice! Welcome here :) . I also chose this frame as my first build in years. I have build up around 6 Bikes myself; but that was around 20 years ago. Dealing with chinese frames was a pain in A back then.You will be the first one here to set it up mechanically. Curious to see how it works out; shouldnt be a problem though. I hope this build goes smoothly. Still contemplating Wheeltop groupset/Di2 /Sram electric or mechanical. Depends on what I can get my hands on I guess. I ordered the XL frame in Pearl White. Going for that Bora Hansgrohe lookI ordered the raw frame to have it painted locally.
I tie both ends of the battery holder. The one closest to the plug gets a longer piece of ribbon. The top ribbon is slightly shorter. After placing the battery holder all the way down the seat post, the ribbon still sticks out of the seat tube opening. I then slide the seat post directly over it and no need to tape it. The only reason I tie 2 pieces of ribbon is mainly for redundancy, just in case one comes off the battery. :)
Yes, the Spcycle headset cover is 57.5mm wide...how wide is the frame's head tube?
I ordered the Elita One SL8 handlebar, theoretically it should also come with a 52mm bearing cover...let's hope so!
Just a little update as i just took a nice photo of the bike. Going strong after now roughly 700 km. Mostly shorter rides haven’t done a really long ride yet. Absolutely love the bike and don’t have any issues at all. Can‘t wait to do the race on it on may 1st.
I haven't been on my R088 for a week, due to riding either my gravel bike or my other road frame! The way I have it setup, it climbs like a champ! Also the new thru axle feels solid, though to be honest I didn't notice any wheel issues before I discovered the issue with the original TA! I'm thinking of swapping the tires out for some 30c for better road durability, but I love climbing with 25c tires!Did you protect the battery cable frame holes at all, or just the grease and rubber cement on the cable-port at the derailleurs? And I'm guessing you put the grease on first, then seal it up with the rubber cement?
A few photos from today's ride. :)
Did you protect the battery cable frame holes at all, or just the grease and rubber cement on the cable-port at the derailleurs? And I'm guessing you put the grease on first, then seal it up with the rubber cement?Finally the torque wrench arrived. I'm torquing up the seat post clamp, and even with the wrench set to only 5 N-m (SL8 recommends 6.2 N-m), it feels high torque to me. Am I just being scared and should trust the torque wrench was QC'ed properly? Or should it feel like a weak turn of the wrench?
Last Friday, to my great surprise, the frame was delivered.
Unfortunately the packaging is very/too simple, and the box arrived quite damaged.... an aspect to be reviewed and improved in my opinion.
I noticed an imperfection on the seat tube where the seat post is inserted (see circle in photo).... right where the box is cut, but Spcycle told me that it was a mistake by the worker who did not fill it with resin.
A defect that can be solved by painting the frame and that does not involve any risk of breakage or safety.
The drainage holes and the mechanical gear cable are not finished well (I cut myself while running my finger through them).... I will have to smooth them out before painting.
The rest seems to be fine, even if I haven't had time to check everything properly this weekend.
Last Friday, to my great surprise, the frame was delivered.
bello, posta anche sul forum italiano, dai........ ;D
Sorry to hear that man, fortunately nothing structural. Keep us updated with the painting
How many days between order and delivery?
bello, posta anche sul forum italiano, dai........ ;D
Looking forward to your custom paint job @bonus79!For the painting I will have to wait until mid-May....the painter already has some jobs booked.
For the price, those little imperfection seem acceptable. That little nick on the seat post opening can be fixed with some filler and/or might not even be noticeable after it's been painted.. As long as the internals look clean, I wouldn't worry too much. Did you check if you received a flush or concave non-drive side thru axle hole? I'm curious if SPCycle fixed that issue. If not, did you receive a rear thru axle with multiple washers?
Last Friday, to my great surprise, the frame was delivered.I definitely got cut and some carbon fiber splinters while trying to fish some line through the bottom bracket area.
Unfortunately the packaging is very/too simple, and the box arrived quite damaged.... an aspect to be reviewed and improved in my opinion.
I noticed an imperfection on the seat tube where the seat post is inserted (see circle in photo).... right where the box is cut, but Spcycle told me that it was a mistake by the worker who did not fill it with resin.
A defect that can be solved by painting the frame and that does not involve any risk of breakage or safety.
The drainage holes and the mechanical gear cable are not finished well (I cut myself while running my finger through them).... I will have to smooth them out before painting.
The rest seems to be fine, even if I haven't had time to check everything properly this weekend.
Unless SPCycle gave me some freebies I don't think I'd put their logo on your bike! ;D
Maybe do a play on words like T-WERKS or something funny just to mess with the weekend S-Works coffee riders!
I definitely got cut and some carbon fiber splinters while trying to fish some line through the bottom bracket area.I asked the painter if he can file away the imperfections, otherwise I'll take care of it myself with a file and sandpaper.
I hadn't really looked at SPCycle, let alone the R088 frame. It really does look like the SL8 but without the obvious butt sniffer. Same geometry, BSA BB, seatpost, and fork design too.
This might actually be the way to go for consumers looking to avoid any stigma of riding a straight up clone. How much does the frame cost?
I hadn't really looked at SPCycle, let alone the R088 frame. It really does look like the SL8 but without the obvious butt sniffer. Same geometry, BSA BB, seatpost, and fork design too.Yeah ; I think it will. I bought it during the sale and paid 550 with the more expensive paint incl shipping to EU
This might actually be the way to go for consumers looking to avoid any stigma of riding a straight up clone. How much does the frame cost?
Yeah ; I think it will. I bought it during the sale and paid 550 with the more expensive paint incl shipping to EU
Ultegra is definitely more premium in looks and lever feel. It also has better brakes. The front derailleur is better (faster), too. It's somewhat lighter as well. I would definitely go for Ultegra if the price difference is so small and you can afford it.
edit: Bought the frame on May 26, and it shipped today April 9.
Order date? Has it been shipped?Expected shipping date is the 12th of April. (Fram color: pearl white)
I ordered the same date, but not shipped yet. Did you get the paintjob?
Expected shipping date is the 12th of April. (Fram color: pearl white)
I just bought an EDS TX groupset 2nd hand for 200 Euros. Previous owner couldnt set it up right. This groupset will go onto the R088 frame. I only need to buy a crankset. Thinking of the Riro carbon DUB version. As it saves weight over the Sensicx crank. Probably will go 50/34 (would that be more difficult for the front derailleur compared to 39/52?)
For the handlbars I am thinking of buying the Elitaone /Roval https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008330025199.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.62c3266e7l582u&algo_pvid=63fd71e9-5443-48c3-9412-0bef77ea3c76&algo_exp_id=63fd71e9-5443-48c3-9412-0bef77ea3c76-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2226%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21130.67%2159.39%21%21%211037.06%21471.35%21%40211b617b17441869763842971e152a%2112000044620831447%21sea%21DE%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=gMixue65BlJv&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
In my case 9 days....frame ordered on March 26th and delivered on April 4th.I got confused with the wheel order....I ordered the R088 frame on March 20, not March 26!
I'm also interested in the RIRO carbon cranks. Have you tried them before? Does anyone have any references? I'm worried they might turn out bad and cause problems.
Looking forward to your custom paint job @bonus79!Here I am....non-drive side thru axle hole is concave and the thru axle is the same as yours (only one washer).
For the price, those little imperfection seem acceptable. That little nick on the seat post opening can be fixed with some filler and/or might not even be noticeable after it's been painted. As long as the internals look clean, I wouldn't worry too much. Did you check if you received a flush or concave non-drive side thru axle hole? I'm curious if SPCycle fixed that issue. If not, did you receive a rear thru axle with multiple washers?
Surprisingly, I also found a cover for the seat post clamp in the frame kit...
Here I am....non-drive side thru axle hole is concave and the thru axle is the same as yours (only one washer).
But do your R088 also have the golden bushing on the non-drive thru axle hole (outer side)?
I was looking at the rear thru axle holes.....but do you think, since the frame is raw, is it normal for them to be finished in this way?
They don't seem very well-finished to me, on the contrary.....but since it's the first time I've ordered a raw frame, I don't know. ::)
Mmmh don't know if it's good or bad, some guy said that they changed the frame thread for allowing a better stay. Did you tried asking them? Could be just bad finish btw.
Yes, I wrote to get information about it and I'm waiting for their response.
Thanks
What information did u get?At the moment none
Yes, I wrote to get information about it and I'm waiting for their response.
Looking at the photo I'm attaching, I think there's some resin/material missing in the lower part of the bushing (see purple arrows), and I have doubts about the parts indicated by the fuchsia and green arrows.
Maybe it's all normal for a raw frame, and maybe then with the painting everything will be fixed, I don't know.....the inside of the fork is definitely better finished (see photo).
I'd be curious to see how the same part looks in a frame painted with transparent, could someone post me some photos?
I don't understand why a black bushing was used for the fork, while instead a gold bushing was used for the rear axle....and why the rear axle has a flat head, while the front axle has a conical/countersunk head.
Can someone explain to me?
Thanks
What information did u get?Hi,
Hello everyone, I'd like to build this frame with a mechanical 2x11 Ultegra drivetrain. I'm envisioning routing the front derailleur cable below the bottom bracket to create a smooth cable bend. Will this work reliably without a fixed cable routing if the shift cable housing is routed "loosely" around the bottom bracket?
Best regards
Could someone answer me about what I highlighted in bold?
Thanks
I'm not sure how the FD cable bend will look, but I highly recommend you do all the cable routing before installing the BB. You should be able to place the cables in the optimal position and then install the BB afterwards.
I've already installed all four cables into the frame, and the front derailleur is deliberately routed around the lower bottom bracket area. It sits neatly in there, but it's not really fixed in place. I hope that once it's finished, it won't affect the front derailleur settings while riding. This is the current status.
Looks like you got the hard part out of the way! Also I love how a bunch of owners of this frame is using the lightweight UNO stem. This frame seems popular for those who don't want loose headsets!;D
What kind of bars are you planning to use? Looking forward to your complete build!
Sorry can't help you. I didn't even notice any difference with the bushings on the frame since mine was painted. Though they should have sent you the extra washers (I've yet to receive mine), since 1 washer is not enough to lock the wheel down. As mentioned before, I found success with a 168mm * 19mm L 1lpm rear thru axle for that tight TA fit. Also like anything from AliExpress, don't expect perfect quality. Everything requires a little extra effort to get things perfect. On the plus side, at least the R088 looks cleaner than what Winspace has been churning out at more than double the price (voids in the bottom bracket)! ;)Hi,
I've already installed all four cables into the frame, and the front derailleur is deliberately routed around the lower bottom bracket area. It sits neatly in there, but it's not really fixed in place. I hope that once it's finished, it won't affect the front derailleur settings while riding. This is the current status.The assembly seems very interesting....what wheels are they? Saddle?
Hi everybody,
so far I have been a silent reader, thanks to everybody sharing their experience with the frame. Inspired by your reports an a test ride on a "real" SL8 I ordered the frame on March 24 which was shipped on April 8/9 and arrived today (April 15) in Germany. So far everything looks good, the frame was packed very well and the box was not damaged. I will post some photos later.
The assembly seems very interesting....what wheels are they? Saddle?
I had also ordered the Toseek handlebar that you intend to mount for my Cervélo R3 (rim), but I returned it because it was too wide on the top.
As for the stem, on the R3 I mount this one from Decathlon: little expense and great aesthetic result, even if it weighs a little more than the UNO stem (150gr for 110mm):
https://www.decathlon.it/p/attacco-manubrio-bici-da-corsa-nero-satinato/_/R-p-308976?mc=8551019
Hi all, wondering if anyone can tell me the correct front thru axle specification or one someone's bought with a handle? My frame arrived and looking to replace both thru axles with handle design versions. The front thru axle on mine does not come with spec written on it. Thanks a lot.There are no specs on my front thru axle either.
I'd be curious to see the outside and inside thru-axle stops...if it's not too much trouble, could you post some photos?
Thanks
Do you mean these?Yes, thanks!
There are no specs on my front thru axle either.
Does anybody know the max. torque at the seat post clamp? There is hothing written on my clamp.
For those who already received the frame, how long did it take to arrive after shipping?
My tracking currently says "Awaiting a connecting flight."
Does that mean it's almost here?
Am I the only one that has a hard time screwing the rear thru axle in and out? I did torque the udh to specs. I can the the threaded portion of the axle become shinier everytime I take it on and off.I also encountered a problem. When I unscrewed the through axle, my udh hanger started to spin in the same direction, because the through axle was jammed in the udh due to the short thread and because the through axle itself was too long. I scratched the frame a little in the process
I'm sure you guys greased your axle and threads right? Also I always gently insert it until I feel the threads bite. I never force the axle into the threads. Also I feel like new frames when they arrive sometimes need to "flex" into place. Eventually the axle spacing settles at the right width.Of course I greased the through axle threads
Just clicked purchase on this frame. Did anyone specify saddle rail clamp type, round or oval, on checkout? Or if anyone knows what type of saddle rail clamp they ship the frame with? Looking to get the Ryet 3d printed saddle for this build
I am using this exact frame with the carbon ryet 3d and it fits perfectly. I think this style clamp works for 7 and 9 mm rails.
- last point, and this is a real problem: the bolt pf the seatpost clamp kept loosening again and again and the seatpost went down. I did not have a torque wrench with me and therefore I was scared to tighten it too much. At the end of the ride I went all the way down and the seat post was stuck in the seat tube. It took some effort to get it out again. Do you have an idea whatbI could do to tighten the seatpost clampmso that it will never come loose again? Any advice is highly appreciated!
Nice build!
Just to verify, you're using carbon paste on the seat post? My R088 seat post clamp definitely says 6.2nm. Though 5nm seems adequate on my frameset. I don't have any seat post slipping issues. If it still keeps happening maybe a thin strip of tape on the rear flat section of the seat post should keep it from moving. Good luck!
Hi, since I will also be mounting Force AXS brakes (etap), can I ask you what size of screws you used?
Today I did a quick technical testride. My observations:
- while building up I had a problem to install the front calipers. The 15mm screws were to long (at least I could not get them into place). I endee up using shorter screws and I hope tha works
Yes, I used carbon paste. Since my clamp says nothing I asked David last week and he said 6-8 nm. 8 seemed a bit much t me since the Specialized clamp also says 6.2 NM. I will try the tape idea. But, the bolt of the clamp was always loose, maybe the clamp itself is the problem? Would it make sense to apply something like anti seize paste or even loctite to the bolt of the clamp?
Hi, since I will also be mounting Force AXS brakes (etap), can I ask you what size of screws you used?
Thanks
Usually the room is just for 13,5mm so you need to use 12mm bolt
Second test ride tonight. The seatpost holds now. I asked David vom Spcycle and he said „ apply more anti-grease in seatpost. In addition, use 6~8NM torque locking seatpost clamp“. I did both: apply a bit of tape, more carbon paste and 7NM torque.
Then I realized a bad cracking coming from the crankset area. Incould rule the saddle/seatpost and cockpit out, thus I will check the cranks and the bottom bracket. Fingers crossed that I will localize the cause. Where do you start looking for the source of cracking usually?
Hi there,
I have finished my build. This is my second china frame after a Carbonda CFR696 whoch I build up in 2021 (my project againt COVID depression). Since i am us9ng it mostly on paved roads I wanted something more „racy“. Intried some bikes at the local bike stores and found out that the perfect bike for me is a Tarmac SL8. But, with all the features I would like to have they charge a whopping 9k€ Germany.
Today I did a quick technical testride. My observations:
- while building up I had a problem to install the front calipers. The 15mm screws were to long (at least I could not get them into place). I endee up using shorter screws and I hope tha works
- Riding experience is very fine so far. Much better accelerating than my gravel bike, like I espected. Although a sporty geometry the bike feels very comfortable. I do not know if this is due to a lack of stiffness and the frame is just flexing. But, so farbit feels nice. Keeping the speed above 30 kph ismuch easier than on the gravel hike (with the same wheels and tires).
- last point, and this is a real problem: the bolt pf the seatpost clamp kept loosening again and again and the seatpost went down. I did not have a torque wrench with me and therefore I was scared to tighten it too much. At the end of the ride I went all the way down and the seat post was stuck in the seat tube. It took some effort to get it out again. Do you have an idea whatbI could do to tighten the seatpost clampmso that it will never come loose again? Any advice is highly appreciated!
I hope you meant to say creaking and not cracking! I'd first check if the BB is firmly secure. I'd then check chainring bolts and finally I'd check the crankset to make sure it's torqued correctly. Also make sure your pedals are firmly tightened as well.Yes, creaking, not cracking :) Thanks for the advice!
Nice build! What is your weight for the build? And what handlebar is that?
Hi there,
I have finished my build. This is my second china frame after a Carbonda CFR696 whoch I build up in 2021 (my project againt COVID depression). Since i am us9ng it mostly on paved roads I wanted something more „racy“. Intried some bikes at the local bike stores and found out that the perfect bike for me is a Tarmac SL8. But, with all the features I would like to have they charge a whopping 9k€ Germany.
Today I did a quick technical testride. My observations:
- while building up I had a problem to install the front calipers. The 15mm screws were to long (at least I could not get them into place). I endee up using shorter screws and I hope tha works
- Riding experience is very fine so far. Much better accelerating than my gravel bike, like I espected. Although a sporty geometry the bike feels very comfortable. I do not know if this is due to a lack of stiffness and the frame is just flexing. But, so farbit feels nice. Keeping the speed above 30 kph ismuch easier than on the gravel hike (with the same wheels and tires).
- last point, and this is a real problem: the bolt pf the seatpost clamp kept loosening again and again and the seatpost went down. I did not have a torque wrench with me and therefore I was scared to tighten it too much. At the end of the ride I went all the way down and the seat post was stuck in the seat tube. It took some effort to get it out again. Do you have an idea whatbI could do to tighten the seatpost clampmso that it will never come loose again? Any advice is highly appreciated!
Finally someone is posting build pictures again! Thx! Nice build! I am still waiting for my frame to arrive. Curious to see how my build will go.
Can anyone comment more on the ride quility of this frame? I cant be that stiif at this low weight right?
Can anyone comment more on the ride quility of this frame? I cant be that stiif at this low weight right?
My mechanical shifting setup is complete. The front derailleur cable was a bit problematic because it doesn't have a guide. I secured the outer cable housing to the seat tube with a cable tie to stabilize it. I'll do a test ride as soon as it's dry outside. I'll add more handlebar tape and weigh the bike.
Finally - my frame was shipped today. Order date was march 26th, with a paint job.Wow that took a long time! Min was ordered on 26th of march and arrived today. Due to miscommunication they painted it the ‘wrong’ color. But I dont care
I will build this up with ltwoo rx mechanical 2x12s group set. Anyone else done this?
So after all the help from this forum I ordered my frame on 5th march in chameleon green and it arrived on 10th AprilNice color!
I’m building it up with Ultegra Di2 - these are go zone 30mm rims for when it’s wet and windy and I’ve a set of carbon speed D60CU-31 T1100 wheels on the way
Will keep you updated on the build and a complete breakdown when I’m finished
Very impressed so far and the paint job looks amazing
Nice color!
What handlebars and saddle did you choose?
Anybody have experience ordering directly from SP Cycle either through the site or via email? My order on Aliexpress got cancelled after a week presumably because SP/Ali pulled their products from US delivery. I guess my order was in limbo with May 2 coming..
I ordered through the website and had no problems. I received some automatic emails but not a ton like on Aliexpress. The whole process went smoothly.
Just found out this minor issue on the frame what do you guy think's? it's safe to use? it's on the low rear triangle
Was it there when you unpacked the frame? I always video record my box openings for issues like this. I'd check the box if it was impacted during shipping. If it's scratched I might not worry too much, you can cover it up with some black gloss touch up paint. If it's cracked with obvious flex, I definitely would contact SPCycle.
coming back on the thru axle spacers saga. For the ones that did not receive the flat surface axle. Did SP cycle ever sent a new axle or you had to buy it and they reimbursed? I noticed the play today in the rear wheel after my first ride and it seems it even damaged the udh. I wrote to SPcycle on aliex, will see what they reply, but I wanted to check what was their solution for others with the same problem.
coming back on the thru axle spacers saga. For the ones that did not receive the flat surface axle. Did SP cycle ever sent a new axle or you had to buy it and they reimbursed? I noticed the play today in the rear wheel after my first ride and it seems it even damaged the udh. I wrote to SPcycle on aliex, will see what they reply, but I wanted to check what was their solution for others with the same problem.
Is this a problem that the manufacturer has fixed on later frames, or does it still apply?
coming back on the thru axle spacers saga. For the ones that did not receive the flat surface axle. Did SP cycle ever sent a new axle or you had to buy it and they reimbursed? I noticed the play today in the rear wheel after my first ride and it seems it even damaged the udh. I wrote to SPcycle on aliex, will see what they reply, but I wanted to check what was their solution for others with the same problem.I submitted the problem of the thru axle to them....they replied that the rear thru axle included with the frame is not dedicated (this explains the use of 3 washers) and that the problem is the (short) length of the thread.
What’s the minimum seatpost insertion?
Just notice like a stop in the frame and the di2 battery stuck on, anyone notice this issue? Can I just sand it out?
Little build update, last step will be hydraulic cable, cut the fork and the bb (waiting for the correct tools)
No issue rn, just still in doubt to how to place the battery with the batteri in the frame I can place the seat post like 600mm into the frame it’s enough?
Nice build! But I would never trust it if the seatpost was only 6cm in there! Specialized recommends 8,5cm minimum! Do you already have the longer 38cm seatpost?The problem is that in the frame, there is a small "step" that prevents the battery from going down further, I could try to file it down a bit, do you think it's okay?
Have you seen the broken fork over atbthe Tantan X86 thread? Scary. Is the R088 fork comparable to the Tantan X86 fork?
Hello everyone! I also chose this frame for a new build. It's already finished and didn't went smooth at all.
It all started with a horribly executed steerer tube cut. It is so bad that I want to order a new fork.
First problem with a frameset itself was with the threads for brake caliper on the fork. Tightening required a lot of force, I don't think it should be like this.
Second one was di2 battery not going in the seat tube. There was an obstacle 19.5 cm deep which was called "seatpost inserting the depth security line" by a contact at Spcycle. Apparently I was secured from installing di2. He eventually admitted that it is a problem and promised to improve. After weighting options I decided to remove some material with a sandpaper. It took a couple of hours to make enough clearance for the battery. It may be done faster, but I used improvised tool which was not very effective. I attached the photo of seat tube made after this process.
Also there was some paint at the edges of rear brake mounts.
During first ride the seatpost slipped. I applied threadlocker to the bolt in the wedge and seems like it helped.
Today I had an 80 km ride. The frame is stiff, maybe even rigid for my liking. Good thing there is space for larger tyres.
Sorry to hear about the troubles, this frame was definitely a test of patience for me as well! I had similar issues figuring out my battery using LTwoo eR9. What happened exactly that made the steerer cut bad? I just do my steerer cuts with the fork mounted on the bike and use stem spacers as guides. I then use wet, fine grit sandpaper to smooth it out. This method has worked for all my bike builds!I rushed and there wasn't enough light. My fault. I'll use your advise on the next try :)
I rushed and there wasn't enough light. My fault. I'll use your advise on the next try :)
Hello everyone! I also chose this frame for a new build. It's already finished and didn't went smooth at all.
It all started with a horribly executed steerer tube cut. It is so bad that I want to order a new fork.
First problem with a frameset itself was with the threads for brake caliper on the fork. Tightening required a lot of force, I don't think it should be like this.
Second one was di2 battery not going in the seat tube. There was an obstacle 19.5 cm deep which was called "seatpost inserting the depth security line" by a contact at Spcycle. Apparently I was secured from installing di2. He eventually admitted that it is a problem and promised to improve. After weighting options I decided to remove some material with a sandpaper. It took a couple of hours to make enough clearance for the battery. It may be done faster, but I used improvised tool which was not very effective. I attached the photo of seat tube made after this process.
Also there was some paint at the edges of rear brake mounts.
During first ride the seatpost slipped. I applied threadlocker to the bolt in the wedge and seems like it helped.
Today I had an 80 km ride. The frame is stiff, maybe even rigid for my liking. Good thing there is space for larger tyres.
Some positives:
Frame looks great, I like thin seatpost and seatstays (they remind of Cervelo R5 from 2010s). The head tube looks better than SL8's I think. And the top of the tube is round and not some proprietary shape. UDH hanger is a good idea. The weight is impressive: 826g for size 56.
Same problem man, the fork break bolt are so hard to close and had the same issue with the battery, i'm going with the same solution to sand some material out, even cut the seatpost but it's not enought and hope to not buy another one.
What do you use to sand the step?
I used a piece of thick plastic clothes hanger with a sandpaper taped to it. A more mature solution i guess would be using a round file of length 30 cm or more with a handle. And wrapping it with tape, leaving only around 7 cm exposed. In the process you might try to put the battery in to check if it fits, but be aware not to make it stuck.
In my case cutting the seatpost wasn't necessary.
Also an idea I came up with only after the build - to put a plastic strap on the clip just under seatpost to prevent battery from falling off (image 2).
Good luck!
What’s the minimum seatpost insertion?
Just notice like a stop in the frame and the di2 battery stuck on, anyone notice this issue? Can I just sand it out?
Hi, have you installed a headset on your builds? I still have a lot of clearance between the fork and frame, and the dealer told me it's not necessary. Without it, the clearance is fine, but it seems really strange to me.You mean the crown race? That has been discussed here multiple times. It is not needed on the R088 fork
Hi everyone,
I’ve come across a concerning issue with my carbon frame and would really appreciate your advice.
I recently noticed a visible crack on the top tube, close to the headset area. I’ve attached a photo below to show exactly where it is (if possible to include). I haven’t had any crashes or impacts that could obviously explain this.
My main concern is whether the frame is still safe to ride, especially on the road.
Would you trust it, or is it too much of a risk?
Has anyone experienced something similar, and how did you handle it?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Hi everyone,And another one bites the dust.. I would never ride that anymore. I am starting to get a little trust issues with the ultralight frames from ali…first that fork on the x68 and now this.
I’ve come across a concerning issue with my carbon frame and would really appreciate your advice.
I recently noticed a visible crack on the top tube, close to the headset area. I’ve attached a photo below to show exactly where it is (if possible to include). I haven’t had any crashes or impacts that could obviously explain this.
My main concern is whether the frame is still safe to ride, especially on the road.
Would you trust it, or is it too much of a risk?
Has anyone experienced something similar, and how did you handle it?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
Yep, I’ve install the fork and handlebar and when I apply some brake at the front I notice some movement in this spot, seems pretty unstable to me
Hi everyone,
I’ve come across a concerning issue with my carbon frame and would really appreciate your advice.
I recently noticed a visible crack on the top tube, close to the headset area. I’ve attached a photo below to show exactly where it is (if possible to include). I haven’t had any crashes or impacts that could obviously explain this.
My main concern is whether the frame is still safe to ride, especially on the road.
Would you trust it, or is it too much of a risk?
Has anyone experienced something similar, and how did you handle it?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help!
After how many kilometres of riding did this happen?
The frame has zero kilometers I had just started building it and it hasn’t done a single meter on the road that’s the crazy thing.
Better now than later btw
The frame has zero kilometers I had just started building it and it hasn’t done a single meter on the road that’s the crazy thing.
Better now than later btw
UPDATE:That sounds very fair. So far they have always been good to me in their support. Do you have an endoscope? Othewise you could send pictures form inside the frame (showing the cracks). I would sand it down and see how it looks; maybe record some videos also. It sure seems like your frame has been damaged during transport. Was the box damaged?
The seller got back to me and suggested that I sand the affected area lightly with sandpaper to check whether the carbon fiber itself is damaged or if it's just a surface-level cosmetic issue.
If the carbon is actually compromised, they said they would send me a new frame (although it’s not entirely clear whether I’ll have to return the current one).
If it turns out to be only cosmetic, they offered to cover the cost of repainting.
We’ve been talking through AliExpress chat so far.
Do you think I should ask them to confirm everything by email, just to have it in writing in a more official way?
What do you think about these options?
Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
What would you do in my place?
That sounds very fair. So far they have always been good to me in their support. Do you have an endoscope? Othewise you could send pictures form inside the frame (showing the cracks). I would sand it down and see how it looks; maybe record some videos also. It sure seems like your frame has been damaged during transport. Was the box damaged?
The chat needs to be via Aliexpress chat; that way you can have support from Aliexpress if needed. But so far they seem very cooperative
Well the box was a little bit damage but I never thought the frame could be damaged, i will sand out and record the process, thanks for the help man, will send some update asap
UPDATE:
They will send me a new frame, Kudos to the customer service, they are quick to respond and very kind.
I only have to wait another month before I can continue building but that's okay
For anyone who ordered off their site instead of Ali, was your tracking number also a WXY tracking number? Since I'm a post-tariff hike order, I'm wondering if sp shipped my frame via a different carrier and what kind of actual waiting time I can expect. David mentioned that they shipped the frame DDP with their freight forwarder so I'm not worried about paying any additional costs, just about time and the condition of the frame.
My R088 is almost ready - took it out for a short test ride and it feels amazing
Weighs 7.2kgs
Size 56 chameleon green
Ultegra 8170 11-34t with 56/32 passquest chainring (Ultegra 160/140 rotors)
Ryet 3d printed carbon saddle
Lexon thin line integrated handlebar
Carbon speed D60CU-31 T1100 rims with 5.0mm carbon spokes
Pirelli p-zero tlr rs 32c tyres
Still need to sort out some headset play, bleed the brakes, index gears properly and add handlebar tape, cages and install computer mount (and install rubber grommets in the di2 wire holes). Hopefully get this all done tonight to test ride to work tomorrow then make any final adjustments for a long first ride Saturday
Build was fairly smooth (was aware of the battery issue seat tube issue so was prepared with a long file) - routing cables was no problem. Tubeless set up was a lot easier than I was anticipating! (Buying a proper sealer injector so much easier than trying to mount the tyres after pouring in sealant)
Photo is quite dark so as it was late when i took it out so doesn’t do justice to the paint colour - my partner has taken absolutely zero interest in any of the conversations i have tried to have with her about the build, but when she saw the paintwork in the sunshine she was all “ooooh it’s an amazing colour, so sparky!”
Will get some better photos in the sunlight this weekend
Today I finally received the frame. Almost two months. The point job was really good.
The seller did not include spacers for the headset and rubber gaskets for the holes for the wire housings. Is this correct?
And does anyone know the torque spec for the udh?
I got the frameset only. Where can I get the rubber gaskets? Are they necessary?
Both rear thru axle holes are concave on the non-drive side. Thru axle in front was installed with a concave washer. Thru axle in the back was installed with a concave washer and a flat washer. There was also an extra concave washer in a plastic bag. I am not sure if I am supposed to use this or not!?
So I ran into the first issue. I am having problem with disc caliper alignment with the rear rotor. Front was no issue. It seems to unalign when I apply torque when mounting. There is some excess paint in the area. Have any of you had any luck fixing this issue?that is a very common problem. Carefully sand down the paint
So I ran into the first issue. I am having problem with disc caliper alignment with the rear rotor. Front was no issue. It seems to unalign when I apply torque when mounting. There is some excess paint in the area. Have any of you had any luck fixing this issue?
My frame arrived today! I ordered on 25th of April, shipping started on 7th of May and it arrived today on the 21st of May. My first impression is really good, the paint job is flawless. I opted for a frame in size 56 in metallic matte 3 (purple) including the handlebar.
I hope I can finish the build next week, still waiting for a Elilee X310 with XCadey and a 105 group. The current weight seems ridiculous, coming from a aluminium gravel bike ;D
Is there anything specific to keep in mind, like the Di2 battery „issue“, or anything I should check on the frame?
Guys, did you buy the frame on aliexpress or on the website? what is the best way?
And did someone buy the frame with the handlebar? is the handlebar good or should we chose a third party handlebar/cockpit?
Guys, did you buy the frame on aliexpress or on the website? what is the best way?
And did someone buy the frame with the handlebar? is the handlebar good or should we chose a third party handlebar/cockpit?
My frame arrived today! I ordered on 25th of April, shipping started on 7th of May and it arrived today on the 21st of May. My first impression is really good, the paint job is flawless. I opted for a frame in size 56 in metallic matte 3 (purple) including the handlebar.
I hope I can finish the build next week, still waiting for a Elilee X310 with XCadey and a 105 group. The current weight seems ridiculous, coming from a aluminium gravel bike ;D
Is there anything specific to keep in mind, like the Di2 battery „issue“, or anything I should check on the frame?
Nice! did you get any tariffs? considering it's such a big box, the customs might not let it slip through right?
Also I seriously need to try a real Specialized SL8 and compare it to the R088. I know a guy who's a mechanic at the LBS, so maybe I'll ask if I can take one on a spin in order to compare the two!It would be very interesting to have a comparison with SL8....keep us updated! ;)
I encountered this problem. The bolt won't tighten any further, I don't want to damage the already bad thread even more. No idea what to do now. I don't have any thread cutting tools.I took the frame to be painted and so I can't help you....what I noticed instead is that the front thru axle is a bit hard to screw in: has anyone noticed the same thing?
I encountered this problem. The bolt won't tighten any further, I don't want to damage the already bad thread even more. No idea what to do now. I don't have any thread cutting tools.
I'd also double check if the rotor isn't true. I have a truing disc rotor tool that does wonders! In fact I have 3 different wheelsets, on 2 bikes that all run true! My disc alignment game is rock solid!What tool is this? Do you have a link?
What tool is this? Do you have a link?something like that https://www.parktool.com/en-int/product/rotor-truing-fork-dt-2 there are plenty of similar version on aliexpress
Thanks
I encountered this problem. The bolt won't tighten any further, I don't want to damage the already bad thread even more. No idea what to do now. I don't have any thread cutting tools.
Looking forward to building this frame up, couldn't be happier with the condition it arrived in.
The color looks great! I'd definitely put some clear protective decal tape on the frame to preserve the paint. What groupset/parts are you planning to use?
Any advice on seatpost creaking? Torque it down to 6.2nm as seen on previous post and use carbon paste on seatpost and clap. Should i use some tape around the seatpost?
Thanks!
Hi guys! Any help pls? :)
Are you sure it's the seat post that's creaking? I'd first check the cassette, crankset, chainring bolts, BB, etc. Unless it's slipping, I don't see why the seat post would cause the creak? It's usually something that's not tightened properly transmitting that creaking sound, making it sound like it's from the seat post. I just tighten my R088 seat post clamp bolt until it's firm.
Pretty sure, 'cause when I stand on the pedal the noise goes away...
Finally found some time to build mine up.
But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?
What do you guys think?
Finally got chance to start my build today.
Although this is my first ever DIY road build, I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy it's gone so far (famous last words). Nothing overly fancy, just a 1x11 speed mechanical.
Have a fair bit to do still - install rear derailleur, chain, pedals, route cables through the bars, bleed brakes, index gears and then adjust saddle/seat post and should be g2g. Will try and get this done in the evenings over next week or 2.
Left ~2.5cm spacers under the stem so there's plenty of room for adjustment before making final cut.
Final build will be:
R088 56cm frame
Ultegra Shifters/Brakes
Ultegra Power Meter Crankset
GRX RD
48t Pass Quest Chainring (subject to adjustment)
11-42 Shimano Cassette
Shimano 160mm rotor f&r
Chaser brake mounts
Ryet 108g saddle
Ryet UNNO 40cm bar
Kalloy Uno stem
Onirii Pedals
KMC chain
Hunt 50mm wheels (spares for build, waiting on XM Carbon speed to arrive which these will be switched to)
Sworks turbo tyres.
Whilst I've not built this bike as a weight weenie build so far and it'll have some 60mm wheels from XM Carbon Speed on it in final form (albeit marginally lighter than the current Hunts) I'd like it to be around 7.5-7.8kg hopefully.
All my parts arrived and I started the assembly today.
I am facing an issue with the expander plug and ahead cap, does anybody have torque recommendations?
I used the values from the SL8 users guide, 5 Nm for the expander plug. However, when I tighten the plug to 5 Nm and try to remove the headset play with the ahead cap, I have to over-tighten the cap bolt (> 3 Nm). I do not want to use excessive torque to remove all the play…where is the issue? The shaft clearance below the cap / inside the stem is 3-4 mm, so blocking the ahead cap should not be an issue. I assembled the bottom bearing, top bearing, racer ring, top cap, spacers and stem, so no part should be missing in the assembly.
Any torque recommendations for the UDH?
Edit: this is my first carbon bike, so I am very careful here. On all my other bikes, I would simply torque the damn ahead bolt down until the play is gone ;D
Finally found some time to build mine up.Did anyone else run into this problem? It’s only the drive side for me. The non drive side goes in fine. SpCycle told me to sand down the bottom bracket. I did so but the problem remains.. any advice? Do you guys thibknI need a bottom bracket facing tool?
But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?
What do you guys think?
With the expander plug, I torque until it's firm, but not overtightened. Maybe 5-6nm. Stem cap I never go above 5nm. In fact I find a properly measured stem spacer height to require very little tightening/torquing on the stem cap. I also never go above 4-5nm on stem screws as well. UDH I think is 25nm, but I usually just tighten until firm. If it loosens up, then use a torque wrench, but I haven't had issues on mine. Though make sure your FD hanger screws are secure. I'd use very mild loctite or at least some grease. My screws got loose the first month. Good luck and post photos when you get a chance!
All my parts arrived and I started the assembly today.My bolt for the UDH says max 20nm.
I am facing an issue with the expander plug and ahead cap, does anybody have torque recommendations?
I used the values from the SL8 users guide, 5 Nm for the expander plug. However, when I tighten the plug to 5 Nm and try to remove the headset play with the ahead cap, I have to over-tighten the cap bolt (> 3 Nm). I do not want to use excessive torque to remove all the play…where is the issue? The shaft clearance below the cap / inside the stem is 3-4 mm, so blocking the ahead cap should not be an issue. I assembled the bottom bearing, top bearing, racer ring, top cap, spacers and stem, so no part should be missing in the assembly.
Any torque recommendations for the UDH?
Edit: this is my first carbon bike, so I am very careful here. On all my other bikes, I would simply torque the damn ahead bolt down until the play is gone ;D
I found the issue and, of course, it was stupid me.Thats weird, I only received 1 of those Compression rings with my frame.
The headset is delivered with two different setups, one for internal routing and one for external routing. The „racer ring“, clamping the top bearing, has a different height for those two setups. The bigger one has to be used for internal cable routing.
Thats weird, I only received 1 of those Compression rings with my frame.
Ended up using one I got with my handlebar.
I'd try an alternative BB first before trying to mess with sanding. Maybe if you can get a Shimano BBR60 Ultegra threaded BB and see if that will go all the way through? If you don't have access to one, did your Chinese BB come with spacers? I'd experiment with that to see if it'll take up the spacing gap.Ah it might be hard to tell from the picture; but the gap only exists on the right side of the drive side bottom bracket. So i can screw the BB in there fully; but there is a gap on the right side of the drive side bearing anyway.
Finally found some time to build mine up.
But I ran into a potential problem? The drive side of the bottom bracket looks like this: there is a gap. I dont think this can be resolved by sanding down the bottom bracket. Looks like the cup might be misaligned?
What do you guys think?
So; SPCycle got back to me about this matter.Looking at the photo you posted, it is clearly visible that on one side there is more space/light than on the other which seems to be in contact (or almost) with the BB box.
They replied the following:
“The engineer told me. Workers will use professional alignment tools to bond the BSA inlay threads. Usually the threads on the left and right sides will not be misaligned. The gap may be caused by over-sanding of the worker and will not affect the frame strength. “
But I am not afraid of the frame strength. If there remains a gap on the right side of the bottom bracket drive side bearing (bottom bracket doenst sit flush against the frame) it will lead to premature bearing failure and probably a creaking sound too right?
What do you guys think? What would be a good solution? Their explanation also leads me to believe that I can not change this, and might need a new frame…
Looking at the photo you posted, it is clearly visible that on one side there is more space/light than on the other which seems to be in contact (or almost) with the BB box.
There could be two possible causes:
- the BB cap is not screwed correctly;
- the BB box of the frame is not regular.
In this second case I think there is little to do....asking for the replacement of the frame and/or the arrangement to someone who works/repairs carbon (asking Spcycle to reimburse the related expenses).
Thanks. Thats exactly what I thought. The bottom Bracket is screwed in correctly.I imagine that they have already seen the photos you posted....so I would try to insist (up to now they have proven to be very serious and available), also because I don't see many alternatives to replacing/modify the frame.
There is no other solution than to have the frame replaced by them. Lets see how SPCycle will deal with this. So far they have been helpfull, and someone in this topic aready had his frame replaced. But lets see how they handle this.
Thanks. Thats exactly what I thought. The bottom Bracket is screwed in correctly.
There is no other solution than to have the frame replaced by them. Lets see how SPCycle will deal with this. So far they have been helpfull, and someone in this topic aready had his frame replaced. But lets see how they handle this.
Have you tried a different bottom bracket? The Chinese threaded BB68 BBs tend to have more screw thread compared to Shimano cups. Perhaps that might help.I have tried various bottom brackets.
You havent fully understood the problem yet. I know its difficult to explain, but I will upload a video later :).
I get it dude, but a lot of the Chinese components can have weird specs. I'd at least eliminate the BB first before having to initiate a frameset return. I've run into all sorts of issues building bikes where one part wouldn't fit, but another part does fit. Plus you're trying to fit the cheapest junk BB onto your frame. They literally give those away. No offense, but I'd at least use a proper Shimano BB if possible.Wow; sorry man :'(. I didnt want to upset you. I was just trying to explain the problem more clearly. I thought I hadnt made myself clear enough; leaving room for a different interpretation of the problem.
I wouldn't be overly troubled by that . If the threading for the cups is aligned correctly the bb will work fine regardless of that contact. I'd ask for permission to have the frame professionally faced without prejudice to any warranty claim, take it to a local shop and have them face it. I suspec that their explanation may not be far off.
Fortunately, it looks like SP has at improved the issue somehwat as the lip in my seat tube doesn't look as big as others have had. So I guess SP really is listening to feedback, if still not perfectly implemented. SP really just needs to remove/round out part of the "middle" of the lip -- where the battery should be able to slide down, but the seat post would still catch on the front and back. It's not like this lip really should be bearing weight anyway as the seat clamp should be doing that
They definitely improved in this point, but did not eliminate the problem entirely. Make sure to sand away a little bit more than you think is necessary! I ran into the problem, that I sanded away just enough to make the battery fit. Once all the cables were installed, it was quite a mess inside the seat tube and the battery didn’t slide straight into the tube, causing it to get stuck again.
I almost finished my build, hope to get the job done this weekend. I had a very big f*ck up with the front brake bolts.
They definitely improved in this point, but did not eliminate the problem entirely. Make sure to sand away a little bit more than you think is necessary! I ran into the problem, that I sanded away just enough to make the battery fit. Once all the cables were installed, it was quite a mess inside the seat tube and the battery didn’t slide straight into the tube, causing it to get stuck again.
I almost finished my build, hope to get the job done this weekend. I had a very big f*ck up with the front brake bolts.
Thanks for the tip! I'll make sure to file more than I think I need to and do a test with cables installed.
And that's a fantastic color on your bike, love the satin finish. Can I ask what the color / finish combination was in your order?
How do you contact them?Yes, it's the email reported by David in tre first post of this topic. ;)
At their email in their website? info@lc2000.com.cn
So any catastrophic failures with this one so far? I read about the TT-X68 one and thinking this might be a better choice
I read a flexy top tube which is disconcerting. Does everyone who bought this frame have the same issue?
So any catastrophic failures with this one so far? I read about the TT-X68 one and thinking this might be a better choiceI am.in a dilemma between the two as well..what's making you lean towards the Spcycle one?
I read a flexy top tube which is disconcerting. Does everyone who bought this frame have the same issue?
Top tube on mine has been sturdy. At first I thought it was flexy mainly from just squeezing it, but it's held up fine. It was probably me that mentioned the top tube flex, but I was comparing it to my 1150g gravel frame that's just built more beefier. Best way I can describe the R088 is that's it's nimble and compliant. It's the kind of bike you don't notice when riding.
When you receive the frame, check that there's no damage from shipping, make sure you have enough washers on your rear thru axle if it's a conical drive side hole (new production frames should be a flat hole) and to check if the bottom bracket has no spacing issues. Those are like the only issues that have popped up on this thread that I can think of.
On paper I think this is the better frame based on features. The only reason I would opt for the X68 is to own a fake SL8!
The flexy top tube is a concern for me. I have an 2014 older Giant TCR advanced SL, and the top tube is stiff AF. I also have a habit of sitting on it at traffic lights. Are you able to demonstrate this flexiness and where it occurs?
What's the offset in the seatpost? 10 or 20mm?
I think it's 20, but there's a 0 offset option. I wish they had that 0 offeset option when I bought the bike!For looks or because you prefer to ride a bike with zero offset seatpost?
For looks or because you prefer to ride a bike with zero offset seatpost?
Does the RP088 seatpost fit the Tantan X-68 by any chance? Tantan didn't offer a 0-offset seatpost option.
I think it's 20, but there's a 0 offset option. I wish they had that 0 offeset option when I bought the bike!
Hi received my spcycle r088 and the bb is misaligned and not straight had to ream it a lot.
Hi received my spcycle r088 and the bb is misaligned and not straight had to ream it a lot. Could not get it to be perfectly straight and they said they are all made like that.Slick di2 cable setup from the RD 😄
second problem was the di2 battery in the seat post. I had to sans down the seat tube for it to fit. Something was blocking.
otherwise awesome bike
2- 52 with longer stem and spacers or 54 with zero spacers.
Any thoughts?
I'm about 173cm on a size 52cm with 20mm of spacers, but running 34cm bars at the hoods. I was originally thinking of slamming it, but I have another bike that's slammed, so I keep my R088 a bit more relaxed.would you mind measuring the cone spacer for me? The one with the holes. Also, 20mm including that one or without?
would you mind measuring the cone spacer for me? The one with the holes. Also, 20mm including that one or without?
Hi received my spcycle r088 and the bb is misaligned and not straight had to ream it a lot. Could not get it to be perfectly straight and they said they are all made like that.
second problem was the di2 battery in the seat post. I had to sans down the seat tube for it to fit. Something was blocking.
I am between sizes (174cm but short legs, long torso) and chose 54. I can get the 52 to work, but the low stack has me maxing spacers to get me (barely) to the drop I have now. The 54 isn't much longer, but stack goes up a bit. I dropped from a 110 to 100 stem, but now have some adjustability in spacers. You seem to be at the other end where a 54 is slammed. I guess it depends on how long a stem is long whether the 52 works for you.Yeap the opposite to you. :-) 172cm, 82cm inside leg. Average arm length I think.
How did you find out your bb was misaligned? My r088 frame just arrived and i can feel that the bb threads feel a bit rough when I go through them with my finger, also there seems to be some black „powder“ or something similar in some threads, i think its most likely from paintjob and got there somehow.Any photos ? :-)
Currently i dont have the a bb here to try the threads and I will be away now for 2 weeks so i can only try after. But if my bb is also misaligned what do you do? I thought maybe just putting in the bb can clean up the threads if theyre not really misaligned, but if they are it might worsen the situation? I read that bb shouldnt really be hard to thread, at least at the beginning.
Apart from that i can say i really like the bb glossy color and the „shine through carbok look“. There are 1 to 2 little spots where the paint has a tiny imperfection (a little hole, there is still paint but a little less than around. but its really tiny, only a very small and optical thing) or where there seem to be some little scratches under the clearcoat paint.
But really overall I am very happy with the frameset and the paint. Also i got to whole frameset with the 380mm integrated handlebar. So I can also give some feedback on that after my build is completed. From looking into it I assume I will also have to sand down the seat tube a little bit.ah an yeah there is also some paint near the holes for the flat mounts, so probably will also habe to sand down a little there.
Yeap the opposite to you. :-) 172cm, 82cm inside leg. Average arm length I think.
A thing which I absolutely hate in the 52s is the length of the front base. I hate hitting the front wheel with my shoes when turning :-(
Any photos ? :-)
Will take some when I am back, already tried to take photos but it’s really difficult to capture those tiny details.Sorry I meant photos of the frame not the tiny details. :-)
Does anybody have issues with the headset play?
I have the frame with integrated SPcycle handlebars.
There is enough clearance for the top cap to not touch the expander, the bearings are mounted in the correct direction, the expander is torqued to ~ 5.5 Nm, gaps between frame and fork/cone spacer look good, spacers are „squeezed“ together nicely, …
However, there is still some play in the headset and I have already torqued down the bolt more than I would like/I am used to.
Have you tried adding the thin metal shims to lock it down tightly? I think that's why some of us R088 owners prefer the non-integrated bar route to avoid headset play.
Like a spacer between the compression ring and headset cover / cone? I think this will not solve the problem, I can still fit a piece of paper easily between frame and cover. So there are definitely a couple of microns left between both parts before touching. But the spacers can also be turned by hand, which indicates insufficient clamping I guess.
I had a free Monday to ride, so I took the R088 out for an afternoon 50km ride and 600m of climbing. I think in every aspect this bike is just dialed-in perfectly. The only issue I had today was some high winds, so I did feel it on the hills even with semi-shallow 45mm depth wheels. If there was one nitpick, I can't attack downhill switchback corners as aggressively. It could have something to do with the SL8 style geometry and not the bike. My more upright bike frames seem better suited for that style of aggressive cornering. In overall nimbleness, acceleration and stability it's pretty good. Even at 70km plus descents, the bike just wants to go faster! Adequate braking becomes the more important factor! ;DI could be wrong, but I see that the main triangle is practically "filled" with a bag and water bottles, and in my opinion this affects the sensitivity to the wind....they practically create a "sail effect".
I could be wrong, but I see that the main triangle is practically "filled" with a bag and water bottles, and in my opinion this affects the sensitivity to the wind....they practically create a "sail effect".
Does anybody have issues with the headset play?
I have the frame with integrated SPcycle handlebars.
There is enough clearance for the top cap to not touch the expander, the bearings are mounted in the correct direction, the expander is torqued to ~ 5.5 Nm, gaps between frame and fork/cone spacer look good, spacers are „squeezed“ together nicely, …
However, there is still some play in the headset and I have already torqued down the bolt more than I would like/I am used to.
What was your main reasoning behind buying the SP-R088 vs the X68? I'm curious to know opinions outside of price difference.
What was your main reasoning behind buying the SP-R088 vs the X68? I'm curious to know opinions outside of price difference.
Standard 52mm headset bearings, option to go separate bar and stem (or any integrated bar you prefer), UDH, mechanical cable routing option and slightly less weight than the X68. The X68 is for those who specifically want an SL8 clone. ;)
Though last I checked, getting the Seraph/TanTan X70 (same frame as the R088) is a bit cheaper on AliExpress compared to SPCycle's store front. I'm surprised no one is going for the X70 option. Buying on AliEx is bit more streamlined and at least you have the ability to dispute the order if anything goes wrong.
I just looked that up and the shipping is $200. Maybe that's a reason? Not sure.
Do they each make the frame in different factories? Im new here so trying to learn and lot.
Quick question, has anyone using Di2 considered just dropping the battery into the seat tube with some bubble wrap and string? That's basically the only way LTwoo ER9/X owners can use this frame.I kinda did this on my gf's Felt when we upgraded it to ER9. Cut a strip of packing foam, wrapped it around the battery enough to form a tight fit, and stuck it in the seatpost. I didn't even push it all the way in. No issues to report (yet).
It was cheaper awhile back. The rumor is that SPCycle and Seraph/TanTan are somehow connected. Someone on here did contacted SPCycle and they accused Seraph/TanTan of copying the R088, denying any connection. My buddy in China thinks neither company makes their own frames and are just vendor fronts. He thinks a bigger OEM factory handles orders for both companies. Mainly because molds (per frame size) are outrageously expensive and both these brands would have to fulfill large orders to break even. Neither brand has barely if any name recognition within China. Their main business model is for exports. So it's all speculation. ::)Sorry, but I have trouble translating the passage in bold: I didn't understand if the two brands (Seraph/TanTan and Spcycle) are or are not known in China.
Well after about a week of not doing much, waiting for a brake line order to come in, and waiting out a heatwave, I finally started sanding down the lip in the seat tube. I was anticipating doing this for hours so I decided to wait until after 100+ degree weather here to pass.Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
Much to my surprise, the lip took all of 10 minutes to sand down enough to fit the Di2 battery through. I believe SPCycle really did listen to prior feedback about internal batteries and addressed it for the most part.
My solution was taping a file I picked up in a set from Harbor Freight to a paint stirrer I got for free from Home Depot. Worked out nicely.
I just worked out the internal cabling for the Di2 wires and the rear brake. Next up is the cabling through the handlebar and then finally the front brake routing. Then it's time to grease everything up and torque everything down. I'm excited to finally finish this build!!
Sorry, but I have trouble translating the passage in bold: I didn't understand if the two brands (Seraph/TanTan and Spcycle) are or are not known in China.
Thanks
Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
While waiting to receive the painted frame, I was watching/studying some tutorials, and I see that not everyone uses the same type of grease....some use pink grease, some use green grease, some use white lithium grease.
I don't know the difference between the various types....which one do you suggest I use?
Thanks
which one do you suggest I use?Any marine grease, calcium-based. Lithium can mess with rubber (rings, gaskets) and there're some horror stories about lithium-greased aluminum + water.
Question for everyone: could you tell me the exact type/brand of grease you use and where you apply it?
While waiting to receive the painted frame, I was watching/studying some tutorials, and I see that not everyone uses the same type of grease....some use pink grease, some use green grease, some use white lithium grease.
I don't know the difference between the various types....which one do you suggest I use?
Thanks
Finally got around to finishing building my R088 yesterday pm. Took it out for a shakedown ride with a mate that's just getting back on the bike after a 6 week lay off due to a crash. Nice and steady 60km with 1 notable climb.
Initial impressions are wow, for the money I really cannot fault the frame or it's ride feel. Stiff enough for me (~83kg) to get out the saddle and put some effort in and feel no noticeable flex. I do not have any disc rub which my carbon crux is prone to doing when out the saddle on a steep climb. This is my first dedicated disc brake road bike and truth be told, if I was blindfolded I don't think I'd tell the difference between it and my rim brake TCR Adv Pro 1, but this could be cos I'm just an average club riding cyclist, and therefore not going fast enough perhaps.
So overall v pleased.
Very cool! I'm curious how tall you are and which size you bought?I'm 6ft and got a size 56cm with a 120mm stem.
I'm 6ft and got a size 56cm with a 120mm stem.
The fit works for me very well I think. Will know for sure tomorrow as I'm going on a faster 100km ride so will have more time in the saddle to gauge how it feels/rides.
Finally got around to finishing building my R088 yesterday pm. Took it out for a shakedown ride with a mate that's just getting back on the bike after a 6 week lay off due to a crash. Nice and steady 60km with 1 notable climb.
Initial impressions are wow, for the money I really cannot fault the frame or it's ride feel. Stiff enough for me (~83kg) to get out the saddle and put some effort in and feel no noticeable flex. I do not have any disc rub which my carbon crux is prone to doing when out the saddle on a steep climb. This is my first dedicated disc brake road bike and truth be told, if I was blindfolded I don't think I'd tell the difference between it and my rim brake TCR Adv Pro 1, but this could be cos I'm just an average club riding cyclist, and therefore not going fast enough perhaps.
So overall v pleased.
Love it! Seriously I've never seen so many frames with the same UV glossy raw + lightweight UNO stem combination! The bike oligarchy might try to ban this frame for being too cyclist friendly and practical! ;D
I'm 6'2" so the first thing I'll say is it felt cramped. Unfortunately spcycles only makes a 110mm bar and I'm ideally looking for 400x120 - does anyone know a bar that will work with the existing spacers (I do want integrated cockpit)
Other than that, coming from a 2008 specialized tarmac comp - huge difference. As my first modern frame was impressed with how stiff it was.
Other than that, happy with the build but because of those issues not for the beginner who wants an easy to put together bike.
Haha yeah, I liked the look of the finish on yours, so chose the same, and I actually think it's pretty cool to be able to so clearly see the carbon under the clear coat. I also massively like the fact that I will almost certainly never see the same frame being used by someone else.
Frame received. So far looks good. Bottom bracket appears to screw on properly. Wheels fit on well. I did need to slightly clean up the head tube where some glue strings must have dripped - 20 minutes with a pick and those were popped off.
Paint job looks good - they were agreeable to the two color fade I asked for. Need to get a logo on the downtube. Wheels and groupset are a bit out, but I don't see any showstoppers here in building this up.
What about those rear brake mounts? We're they painted over?I'll have a look. They did mask, but I'm not sure if the paint creeps over onto the flat mating surface.
People who got the first version of frame with the rear axle play:
Did you successfully resolve the issue with the provided axle/conical washers? How many thick washer did you have to put? Spcycle did send me a replacement axle with 3 conical washers+ a thick black flat washer, but no matter the stack I install, I still get some play.
I am trying to confirm here that no matter how many spacers they provide, the axle itself is the issue.
People who got the first version of frame with the rear axle play:everything works with three conical washers. spcycle sent me these after I contacted them
Did you successfully resolve the issue with the provided axle/conical washers? How many thick washer did you have to put? Spcycle did send me a replacement axle with 3 conical washers+ a thick black flat washer, but no matter the stack I install, I still get some play.
I am trying to confirm here that no matter how many spacers they provide, the axle itself is the issue.
I just pulled the trigger on a 56cm frame in matte metallic silver—my first 'no-name' frame. I was too curious to see how it rides. Looking forward to building it up and will share some pictures once it arrives. They mentioned it should arrive in early August, though I'm not sure if that's realistic.
Is anyone using a different integrated cockpit than the one offered by Spcycle (something more like the SL8)? Do I just need a round top cap for the headset? Thanks!
I got myself an original Rapid Cockpit and will see how to get it to fit. But might take some time until my frame arrives.
Anyone has a link for a good Roval Rapide Cockpit clone ?Some people here suggested the one from Elita one. But I have no personal experience with it. With 320g it seems also not the lightest.
Some people here suggested the one from Elita one. But I have no personal experience with it. With 320g it seems also not the lightest.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExwES0E
I'm interested to hear what alternative one piece bars folks are using on their builds. I'll be looking for 120 to 130mm options, currently favouring the bigrock skyline.
I'd like to spend less but don't want to live in fear of cheapest ones breaking (around 82kg, 193cm).
I'm interested to hear what alternative one piece bars folks are using on their builds. I'll be looking for 120 to 130mm options, currently favouring the bigrock skyline.I have a Lexon Vero to go with it. The bar itself is very nice. The split ring that came with it is too shallow, though. And the one that comes with the frame is too thick. So I am now waiting on some spacers that should take care of it. I could machine down the thick one, but I'm waiting on other parts anyway.
I'd like to spend less but don't want to live in fear of cheapest ones breaking (around 82kg, 193cm).
I used the balugoe one piece for my r088. I just bought a second one for my r065 build. I can't event see why would someone not like that handlebar. 100% impressed with quality for price. I paid around 70 usd on aliI have that handlebar but it is extremely flexy! Wouldnt buy it again
I have the lexon in my cart as an option.
What do you mean by split ring?
Thanks
I have that handlebar but it is extremely flexy! Wouldnt buy it again
I'm finding the headset coming loose after my rides. Has anyone experienced this or can give me advice on what I need to do to lock it down better.
Top cap has a spacer under it and isn't touching the plug. I've cleaned everything thoroughly with alcohol. Tried carbon paste on the plug and even on the stem to steer as a last resort but after a ride there is play in the plug looks to have lifted 0.05mm
Thanks
I'm finding the headset coming loose after my rides. Has anyone experienced this or can give me advice on what I need to do to lock it down better.My plug came loose after first ride. Tightened to 7nm (was originally 6nm) and applied medium loctite to the plug's bolt. No issues since. I am using a separate stem and handlebar and also for reference this was my first build so installing the plug to 6nm might not be enough/builder error. However can confirm 7nm plus the loctite has stopped headset play arising in the 200km I've ridden since on rough UK roads.
Top cap has a spacer under it and isn't touching the plug. I've cleaned everything thoroughly with alcohol. Tried carbon paste on the plug and even on the stem to steer as a last resort but after a ride there is play in the plug looks to have lifted 0.05mm
Thanks
Did anyone set this bike up with mechanical shifting? Would it be possible?
If anyone in Europe (ideally Germany) is interested in an R088 frame – 56 cm in matte silver, feel free to DM me - will make a fair price. Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong size and the frame is already painted 😬 It's expected to arrive in 2–3 weeks.
My frame is now on its way and I’m starting to get things ready.
Has anyone used a udh to direct mount adapter successfully with this frame?
I tried using one with my ER9 RD, but the UDH direct mount adapter is RD specific (ex: for Shimano, SRAM, etc.). I ended up returning it.
Ah ok this will be for ultegra di2
So will I also need an rd adapter? I'll be installing ult di2.
Thx
So will I also need an rd adapter? I'll be installing ult di2.
Thx
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C?
No part on the clamp was missing on my seat post. I replaced all the bolts with Titanium bolts, just for fun. Is there also a Titanium version of part C?
I just passed the 600 km mark on my R088 and I am very satisfied so far. Did a 110 km „sportive“ ride on Sunday and hit PRs all the way. This weekend I will take the R088 to the 24h Nürburgring.
Last week I did a group ride with lots of climbing and some good flat sections. The section where the R088 handled only average was on the downhill descent with lots of switchback curves. I was attacking the downhill pretty hard, but I had to ease off on the sharp turns. I have my bike setup somewhat relaxed for distance and climbing, but my older TFSA frame has similar geometry, was slammed and had similar cornering. My other carbon road bike with higher seat stays and fatter tubes (at the expense of weight) handles fast switchbacks much better.
I'm just curious if anyone else notices this when descending fast mountain passes going between the 40-60km plus range? I'm wondering if this is more an issue with Tarmac style geometry?
I don't have the exact measurements, but it's not -- the bottom of the steerer tube flares out to the internal diameter of the headset bearings so as to seat tightly against it and the bottom of the head tube.
Did you use a 1 1/4" or 1 1/8" stem?
Hi guys,
I'm currently researching for my first road bike.
I’ve now landed here thinking about buying the SP-R088:
I'm happy to take any other advice.
Greetings from Germany
P.S. I have read about the challenges with the cable routing — looking forward to this challenge!
P.P.S. My build was inspired by Trace Velo's OG evkin cf25 build
Even though the R088 has mechanical cable routing it will be challenging. I would route all mechanical cables and hydraulic brakes first, before installing the bottom bracket. You'll need that BB space opening to fish the cable through. Also if you go with a regular bar setup with no internal routing, that should make things a bit easier. Even so, you'll still need to cut cables to size and you won't have much leeway if you decide to go with integrated bars in the future. In fact if you do go integrated later on, there's a chance you might have to redo the cable lines because they could be too short.
Trace Velo loves the LTwoo R9, but I'm not the biggest fan. First he never mentions what a PITA is to access the clamping bolts on LTwoo shifters. Also if you ever need to replace the shift cable, it's a very convoluted process compared to Shimano mechanical shifters. You can find Shimano 105/Ultegra components for good prices on AliEx if you shop around. It'll cost slightly more, but the ease of installation is so much better. If you go LTwoo, I'd opt for electronic. I've worked on both LTwoo and Shimano mechanical, modern Shimano mechanical is so much better to work on especially for a first build. Though I actually like LTwoo brake calipers. Despite the use of adapter plates, I find they have more leeway for adjust compared to Shimano's standard flat mount setup.
Anyways good luck!
I probably like the building more than the actual cycling xD Did yesterday 40km on a Nextbike as part of a gag Triathlon with a buddy. I really suffered.
Can you maybe give me your opinion on my Wheelset problem.
Thank for your advice ;)
Any non just buy a SL8 seatpost solution to have actual markings on my seatpost? Still trying to get the perfect height and its not easy to do with no references.
Hey guys. Just building up my bike and not sure about the frame design. Website says "Flat Mount Disc Brake, 140 or 160mm rotor", so does it mean I would need a flatmount adapter + longer C screw to correctly get a 160mm disc to work in the back?
Thanks in advance,
Jonas
Which type of bottom brackets do you have on your SpCycle R088 frame?
I'm using the ZTTO BSA bottom bracket with no issues. Spins perfectly fine
Like this one? https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008630301279.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.196628e4RPSvGB&algo_pvid=faa0f02a-9f1f-48f4-a8b6-d38087c103c0&algo_exp_id=faa0f02a-9f1f-48f4-a8b6-d38087c103c0-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2287%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21PLN%2187.48%2141.99%21%21%21168.82%2181.04%21%402103956b17532508873468740ecd68%2112000046535805983%21sea%21PL%21705992700%21X&curPageLogUid=Stufob2jiwNC&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Why no Shimano bracket like Ultegra SM-BBR60 BSA Hollowtech II ?
Which type of bottom brackets do you have on your SpCycle R088 frame?
I am also using an Ultegra BB for peace of mind.
Did the 24h Nürburgring cycle race this weekend in a team of four.
I managed 6 laps, which is approx. 156 km and 3400 m elevation and the R088 performed outstanding during the climbs and fast descents.
My top speed was 86 km/h which felt kind of sketchy the first round, but once I got used to it it was no issue.
Overall, I am still very happy with the Bike!
That doesn’t look right how does the built in crown race look?
I’m anticipating an issue with front derailleur alignment. With it in place and tightened up to the hanger, the back of the cage is too far outboard and I’ve not touched the support set screw yet. Anyone else had this issue?
Secondly.....the bottom bearing, when installing on fork, is far from touching. This means as you preload...you are just putting pressure on this bearing. See pic.
Yup, I had the same issue with my 105 FD. Even with the support screw backed all the way out, it installed with some toe-in and I couldn't pivot it outwards on the mount. I haven't come up with a fix yet, but it does shift fine without chain rub after I gave the FD adjustment extra attention.
I'm almost certain in my case that the bottom bearing sat against the top of the fork. Everything looked flush even without preload, prior to cutting the steerer tube.
So; SPCycle got back to me about this matter.After talking to SPCycle about the above matter we have come to a mutual agreement. I can only complement their customerservice!
They replied the following:
“The engineer told me. Workers will use professional alignment tools to bond the BSA inlay threads. Usually the threads on the left and right sides will not be misaligned. The gap may be caused by over-sanding of the worker and will not affect the frame strength. “
But I am not afraid of the frame strength. If there remains a gap on the right side of the bottom bracket drive side bearing (bottom bracket doenst sit flush against the frame) it will lead to premature bearing failure and probably a creaking sound too right?
What do you guys think? What would be a good solution? Their explanation also leads me to believe that I can not change this, and might need a new frame…
I contacted sp and they said that's how it should be and the play will be eliminated when preload added.
How does it look with fork installed?
Yup, I had the same issue with my 105 FD. Even with the support screw backed all the way out, it installed with some toe-in and I couldn't pivot it outwards on the mount. I haven't come up with a fix yet, but it does shift fine without chain rub after I gave the FD adjustment extra attention.
Same here. Did you guys installed the little silver metal protector? When I tried it without it and just a slim frame protector piece, the FD aligned nicely
Had the same thoughts with the bearing. But installed and with preload it looks like it should.
I wonder if I can shim it with something, or failing that use a band adapter.
Btw where did you order your seat clamp from I can’t find it in stock.
Only thing I‘m not 100% sure about is preload. No matter how much I tighten the Ahead-Cap-Bolt, the steering won’t get rough. But I feel that everything gets nicely compressed as it should. Maybe it should be that way, just not used to it from other bikes 🤷🏼
After talking to SPCycle about the above matter we have come to a mutual agreement. I can only complement their customerservice!May I ask you what mutual agreement you reached?
The new frame has a correctly aligned bottom bracket. Both sides screw in perfectly now. I chose the glossy ud carbon this time. The new frame has better faced brake mounts, different thru axles , and only one gold non conical spacer on the rear. Very curious to see how it rides!
I think this shim was the minimum I could get away with.
I realise now that we have different saddle clamps, mines an open hole that uses wedges to tighten, no idea what this style is called so I’m struggling to find anything lighter. Will get a ti bolt for it soon.
Got my frame the other week. The BSA threads are a bit of a mess. Can only screw the BB part way in. Fingers crossed they just need a chase out.
It sounds like I'll have to combine multiple layers of film to produce a shim thick enough to make a difference then.
I think I may get a cheap roll of 1/16" rubber instead. The only thing I'm worried about is how compressible the rubber is and if/when it degrades, I'll have to remake this shim sometime again.
Did you get a zero offset seatpost somehow? Not sure how that looks like but theres some details on reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/specialized/comments/1fit7yj/tarmac_sl8_carbon_post_0_offset/
I used an old credit card and sharpied the white edges in the end. I didn’t take a photo of it, but it’s just wide enough to sit snugly to the right of the rivets, and just showing to the right of the mount, held in place by the mount itself. Shifting is great so far in the work stand.
Yes I requested a 0mm seatpost, thanks for the link! Not sure why they sent this barrel style clamp though.
Can you send photos of this BSA?
Struggling to solve my headset play issue, tried tightening the preload way too much and no luck, anyone find a solution?Someone here solved the problem by replacing the expander....I think I'll do the same before even assembling the frame....looking at it, it didn't inspire confidence/reliability in me.
After a few weeks and some vacations in between, my frame is here, and I have started to put things together.Not bad at the moment....except for the white saddle! ;D
The goal was to stay on 1k, so I went for mechanical Ltwoo R9 gouurpset (120), Magene P505 (I already had it), a set of Tagoola Wheels (350), Toseek TKR100 Handlebar (70)
So far, the biggest issue is cable routing through the handlebars and headset. It was a nightmare, but it was possible. I hope to finish today and do a small test
After a few weeks and some vacations in between, my frame is here, and I have started to put things together.
The goal was to stay on 1k, so I went for mechanical Ltwoo R9 gouurpset (120), Magene P505 (I already had it), a set of Tagoola Wheels (350), Toseek TKR100 Handlebar (70)
So far, the biggest issue is cable routing through the handlebars and headset. It was a nightmare, but it was possible. I hope to finish today and do a small test
And I feel numbness in the wrist while riding. I would be glad to hear an opinion about the size of the my bike.
There's no obvious issues with the size, but I would say the wrist numbness is because your shifter hoods are too far forwards and you're putting too much weight on them. Try moving them back and see if that makes a difference.Thanks i will try this. I tried to set the saddle height according to LeMond's method (inseam×0.883), I couldn't even ride like that, it didn't work for me at all. I lowered the saddle by about 4 cm
Also finally finished the build for my girlfriend’s sister (Size 52cm for 173cm height, 81.5 cm inseam). She’s super happy, the bike feels responsive and the build up was almost hassle free (except for getting the headset play right).
Stem: Deda Superbox 90mm
Handlebars: Deda Zero2 400mm
Wheels: XM Carbon Speed D50CU 28-21 with GP5000
Shimano 105 Di2 Groupset
Everything together roughly under 7.6kg.
Also finally finished the build for my girlfriend’s sister (Size 52cm for 173cm height, 81.5 cm inseam). She’s super happy, the bike feels responsive and the build up was almost hassle free (except for getting the headset play right).
Stem: Deda Superbox 90mm
Handlebars: Deda Zero2 400mm
Wheels: XM Carbon Speed D50CU 28-21 with GP5000
Shimano 105 Di2 Groupset
Everything together roughly under 7.6kg.
Struggling to solve my headset play issue, tried tightening the preload way too much and no luck, anyone find a solution?
Also finally finished the build for my girlfriend’s sister (Size 52cm for 173cm height, 81.5 cm inseam). She’s super happy, the bike feels responsive and the build up was almost hassle free (except for getting the headset play right).
Stem: Deda Superbox 90mm
Handlebars: Deda Zero2 400mm
Wheels: XM Carbon Speed D50CU 28-21 with GP5000
Shimano 105 Di2 Groupset
Everything together roughly under 7.6kg.
Thanks i will try this. I tried to set the saddle height according to LeMond's method (inseam×0.883), I couldn't even ride like that, it didn't work for me at all. I lowered the saddle by about 4 cmThe LeMond method may not be 100% accurate, but a 4cm difference is really too much... are you sure your inseam is 84cm?
Dada stem & handlebar aluminium or carbon? Can you send more photos how looks that set?
How did you solve headset play?
Can you link to disc breake rotors?
I attached some more photos, maybe they help :-) It's both aluminium as she wants to use the handlebars with clamp-on TT bars. The frame didn't come with painting around the headset area, so as SpCycle seems to use a 57mm top cap and Deda (and all others) 56 mm top cap, I had to put some white nail polish to get a got coverage and look.
Put some microspacers between the compression ring and top cap. Still the steering won't get rough no matter how much preload I put on, but the headset play disappeared.
These are the 160mm Shimano RT-CL900 (https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Dura-Ace-Bremsscheibe-Center-Lock-RT-CL900-160-mm-IceTech-FREEZA?iso=DE). Just like them better than the Shimano 105 level ones. If you take 160mm brake rotors, you will need to put an adapter at the back for compatibility.
This wheels are available on Aliexpress? Can you send link to them?
Shimming is the way. As a test I cut a bit of a builders spacer up to put under the right side of the mount, it’s about 1.5mm thick. Works a treat, I just need to find something more aesthetically pleasing, maybe a black credit card or something. Photos show before and after tension bolt adjustment.
I was finally able to add a shim under the FD mount, it made a huge difference in adjustability. Super easy to get the limits right after this change too. No issues on a quick 11 mile ride earlier today, hoping this solved my chain drop issue for good.
Good to hear! Did you use rubber or plastic in the end?
The LeMond method may not be 100% accurate, but a 4cm difference is really too much... are you sure your inseam is 84cm?I measured it several times yesterday in bibs (83 cm). Maybe I just prefer a lower saddle height. Unfortunately I don't have a biomechanic in town
Something's not quite right... since you're also unsure about the frame size, have you ever considered consulting a biomechanic?
I measured it several times yesterday in bibs (83 cm). Maybe I just prefer a lower saddle height. Unfortunately I don't have a biomechanic in town
I measured it several times yesterday in bibs (83 cm). Maybe I just prefer a lower saddle height. Unfortunately I don't have a biomechanic in townAlready at 83 cm, the LeMond method returns a saddle height 1 cm lower than at 84 cm...but the difference with your current saddle height is still very noticeable.
Made some progress with the build, handlebars came today and udh to direct mount hanger. I’ve test fitted the bars ready for a fit on the trainer tomorrow, then once I’m happy will chop the steerer and trim hoses. Does preload hold the spacers in place?
Got a slightly lighter sworks seatpost on the way too. Currently weighs 7kg without tape, cages or expander, which is 1.6kg less than my steel bike. Crazy how thin it is in comparison.
Any recommendations for a computer mount?
Do you have a link for the handlebar you got?
Thanks
Made some progress with the build, handlebars came today and udh to direct mount hanger. I’ve test fitted the bars ready for a fit on the trainer tomorrow, then once I’m happy will chop the steerer and trim hoses. Does preload hold the spacers in place?Nice build, look forward to seeing it finished.
Got a slightly lighter sworks seatpost on the way too. Currently weighs 7kg without tape, cages or expander, which is 1.6kg less than my steel bike. Crazy how thin it is in comparison.
Any recommendations for a computer mount?
Nice build, look forward to seeing it finished.
Which Sworks seatpost have you ordered? Just curious as I hadn't appreciated that they were the same size as the R088.
Made some progress with the build, handlebars came today and udh to direct mount hanger. I’ve test fitted the bars ready for a fit on the trainer tomorrow, then once I’m happy will chop the steerer and trim hoses. Does preload hold the spacers in place?
Got a slightly lighter sworks seatpost on the way too. Currently weighs 7kg without tape, cages or expander, which is 1.6kg less than my steel bike. Crazy how thin it is in comparison.
Any recommendations for a computer mount?
not available on Aliexpress however there is a thread on this brand on the forum XM Carbon Speed.
Is there much advantage to using the direct mount mech hanger over the provided 1? I'll be using same mech and haven't changed. I checked the alignment this morning and it was spot on. Bars are out for delivery:)
I'm seeing mostly basic paint jobs on here. Does anyone have experience with a bit more complex paint designs and adding logo's? I wonder what that process is like and if it's decent quality.
I'm tempted to go for a one part UD carbon gloss look and one part chameleon green. In my head it looks amazing, but if not done properly I rather go for the save (and cheaper) option.
Anyone tried both the R088 and the R065? Is the aero worth the weight?
I'm seeing mostly basic paint jobs on here. Does anyone have experience with a bit more complex paint designs and adding logo's? I wonder what that process is like and if it's decent quality.
I'm tempted to go for a one part UD carbon gloss look and one part chameleon green. In my head it looks amazing, but if not done properly I rather go for the save (and cheaper) option.
Possibly. I rode with cyclists on real SL8 S-Work framesets and they were flying on the flats. Though this week I rode with another cyclist on a Felt AR Advance aero frame. We took turns pulling and I was already gassing out on my R088. Other guy took the pull and did the lead out like it was nothing until we got to the destination.Id consider the rest of the builds (wheels, bars etc). That's interesting though
Someone got a real s**t custom paint job from SPCycle:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6099.0.html (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6099.0.html)
I even complained their basic paint work isn't the greatest from a few years back. Hence why I went with a UD glossy bare carbon. Though I didn't know everyone else would go basic as well! ;D
I have purple gloss colour. It looks great. I add some photos in few pages back.
Saw that one! That does look good. I didn't see that color in their options on their website & aliexpress. How did you come up with that?
The design I have in mind has two tones so it requires a bit more effort with masking and sanding to make the transition look good and parallel on both sides.
These are the 160mm Shimano RT-CL900 (https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Dura-Ace-Bremsscheibe-Center-Lock-RT-CL900-160-mm-IceTech-FREEZA?iso=DE). Just like them better than the Shimano 105 level ones. If you take 160mm brake rotors, you will need to put an adapter at the back for compatibility.I already have two 160mm SRAM rotors at home...for the rear caliper so do I need to get an adapter to use 160mm rotors?
I already have two 160mm SRAM rotors at home...for the rear caliper so do I need to get an adapter to use 160mm rotors?
If so, is it better to buy a 140mm rotor or the adapter? What do you recommend?
I've never used disc brakes on a road bike before.
Thanks
Is there a mount for a bike computer on the bike? Am I seeing it correctly? And is it attached to the stem? Could I ask what kind of mount it is?
Id consider the rest of the builds (wheels, bars etc). That's interesting though
Took it out on its maiden voyage tonight, just a quick shakedown for 30km. To be honest it didn’t feel that much different to my Condor, it wasn’t exactly mind blowing, but still nice. I wasn’t pushing it though. I’m not trying to say it’s slow or anything, nor am I disappointed, I just think it’s more about the rider than the bike. That said I’m very excited to get back out on it.Looks a nice little build you've put together there.
Weighs in at around 7.1kg, minus varia + mount, light, saddlebag, computer, bottle.
Specialized Sworks seat post fits a treat and it’s really a lovely thing, glad I got it. The balugoe handlebar is also really nice, stiff enough, but like I said this was an easy ride, I weigh 75kg and I’m not that powerful so ymmv. Got some bigrock cranks on the way hopefully get it sub 7kg.
Cheers!Thanks for confirming.
Yep it’s a SL8 380mm 15mm offset (can provide effective 0mm offset). Only 20g lighter than the inline post I got, fwiw. bought it used off eBay for £80.
Hi, I am interested on this frame for my son. I have the velobuild 268 and pretty happy with it but i think this frame will be better for road racing (14 years old) due to its lightness.
Anyway, he has doubts about color, has anybody it in metallic gray or silver one? I think any frame on this colour will be fine to have an idea... If so, could you post a photo?
Thanks in advanced!
Exactly. I just like the look of equally sized rotors better. The adapter is just so it fits, I would go two times 160mm.Hi, which adapter should I get? SRAM or something else?
I'm seeing mostly basic paint jobs on here. Does anyone have experience with a bit more complex paint designs and adding logo's? I wonder what that process is like and if it's decent quality.
I'm tempted to go for a one part UD carbon gloss look and one part chameleon green. In my head it looks amazing, but if not done properly I rather go for the save (and cheaper) option.
Works in progress....
Recently noticed the same problems as @rcwsr. I also have a bad front derailleur mount, the derailleur works poorly, the chain came off once during a sprint
I resolved my fd issues by shimming it with a bit of credit card, think I put some photos in the thread somewhereI saw these photos. Thanks, I'll try to do this.
Love the marbling on the paint. Looks clean ASF!
Sorry, but what does ASF mean?
Because the stickers are still missing... ;D
In the end I had thought about going for "tone-on-tone" stickers (see photo), but the painter opted for the satin black stickers that I had already supplied him. :'(
Sorry, but what does ASF mean?
Because the stickers are still missing... ;D
In the end I had thought about going for "tone-on-tone" stickers (see photo), but the painter opted for the satin black stickers that I had already supplied him. :'(
ASF = clean AS F**k!Too late for the stickers...they've already been applied under clear coat! :'(
You got the TanTan X68 right? I don't see R088 UDH or the non-aero sniffer head tube! ;D
Too late for the stickers...they've already been applied under clear coat! :'(
I'm seeing mostly basic paint jobs on here. Does anyone have experience with a bit more complex paint designs and adding logo's? I wonder what that process is like and if it's decent quality.
I'm tempted to go for a one part UD carbon gloss look and one part chameleon green. In my head it looks amazing, but if not done properly I rather go for the save (and cheaper) option.
Do you have a pic of that?Photos of the stickers or the finished frame?
Works in progress....
That looks insane!Hi, I ordered the raw frame without paint/clear coat and had it painted locally.....you can still ask Spcycle if they are also able to replicate something similar (obviously with an extra cost). ;)
Was this custom paintjob done by SPCycle when buying the frame? If so, would you mind letting me know how much you paid extra?
I'm really debating on getting the SP-G068 and this paintjob is on the top of my list now.
Can someone help me? I’m starting to assemble a bike, but I’m new to this and need some assistance. With the frame, I received two headset bearings and one spacer. Where should it be installed?”You don't need that part. It's redundant.
You don't need that part. It's redundant.
The carbon fork has an inbuilt crown race.
Are you sure?100% I own the bike, I didn't use it.
Can someone help me? I’m starting to assemble a bike, but I’m new to this and need some assistance. With the frame, I received two headset bearings and one spacer. Where should it be installed?”The R088 Fork has a “built in crown race”. (So you dont need that Part)
When I put this spacer with bearing below, this space is making.
The R088 Fork has a “built in crown race”. (So you dont need that Part)I've been following the discussion from the first pages...it seems to me that the problem with the front derailleur hanger is "recent."
To be honest; this has been mentioned a lot of times before in this topic. For someone new to bike building I would recommend you to read the whole topic. The front derailleur hanger will probably be the next thing that causes you problems..
Question: Is the front derailleur fixing bolt generally included with the frame or with the groupset?
I don't think I saw it with the frame, and since I bought a used groupset, the fixing bolt wasn't included (whoever sold me the groupset told me the bolt wasn't included with the new groupset he purchased, so he used the one that he already had).
I've been following the discussion from the first pages...it seems to me that the problem with the front derailleur hanger is "recent."
Is it possible that the problem only affects the "updated" frames and not the previous ones?
I don't think anyone who bought the first version of the R088 has reported any problems with the front derailleur hanger.
Am I right?
It's only supplied with the 2 screws for the FD (I highly recommend using loctite). The fixing bolt should be supplied with the FD groupset, not the frame.Then I'll have to get it....thanks!
As an early adopter my front derailleur was spot on after I installed it. I'm super meticulous about getting my FD to line-up as well. My R088 has been rock solid since I built it up early January. I'd buy one again based on price, features and performance. I don't see what would be different with newer R088 frames unless QC has gone down the toilet.I don't know...but I noticed that the problem only occurred on a couple of recent frames.
Could anyone help me figure this one out?
When selecting black colour and glossy is this the one you get?
First one is black paint with glossy clear coat. The second one (my frame) is raw with UD glossy clear coat. You have to specifically ask for the second one. You can also get black matte or raw UD matte. Raw UD matte would also be the lightest weight you could potentially achieve.Thanks for the reply. It clarifies things a bit for me.
Thanks for the reply. It clarifies things a bit for me.
What finish from raw ud matte and glossy clear coat would leave a more raw ("unpainted") looking?
I also guess with a raw ud matter, it could be a big tricky to touch-pain scratches, chips, etc, right?
@jonathanf2 how do you touch-pain your frame? With clear or black nail polish?
I think with raw ud matte, the underlying carbon texture will have some sections that look flat black and other sections with fiber mesh. Raw ud glossy looks more like marble with varying fiber textures under a glossy clear coat.I think I'll go same finish than yours. :-)
I typically use clear nail polish with the glossy clear coat. It tends to hide blemishes quite well. Though I use this clear protection decal film on my frame. It blends well with the glossy clear coat and isn't noticeable whatsoever. Best to lightly apply it with a blow dryer or heat gun and it doesn't leave any adhesive residue when removing. I've tried the helicopter clear tape and I think that stuff sucks. It looks ugly and leaves residue when you remove it.
Protection decal film in black and clear:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808712099.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808712099.html)
I think I'll go same finish than yours. :-)
What's the weight of your frame and fork as I am also getting a 52?
On a ride, I lost the bolt and semicircular adapter on the seat post. The bolt that secures the saddle. Unfortunately, I can't find a suitable replacement part. Can I ask you more specifically which manufacturer I can get the part from? Ideally, it's from Germany.
On a ride, I lost the bolt and semicircular adapter on the seat post. The bolt that secures the saddle. Unfortunately, I can't find a suitable replacement part. Can I ask you more specifically which manufacturer I can get the part from? Ideally, it's from Germany.You might want to look into the Specialized Alpinist replacement kit....if it fits the SL8, it should fit the R088 seatpost as well.
Hi everyone,Just look through this topic; most have listed it on their build.
Im thinking about getting an integrated handlebar, but I’m not sure which models fit well. Could you share what integrated handlebars you are using on your R088?
Thanks a lot!
Which expander do you use in your build? That what comes with a frame or something else?The one that comes with the frame is fine, but it's a little short. I think a lot of us changed it to a longer expander (especially when running spacers)
I have DEDA handlebar and stem and I wonder that I need to buy DEDA expander or what?
The one that comes with the frame is fine, but it's a little short. I think a lot of us changed it to a longer expander (especially when running spacers)
Yes, it’s little too short. Which expander do you use if I may ask?Ich habe das hier gerade auf AliExpress gefunden: 6,33€ | Fahrrad Headset Expander Top Cap Stern Mutter Stecker Bolzen Vorbau Expanding Mutter Schrauben Für Fahrrad 1 1/8 "Vordergabel Expansion Schraube 22-25mm
Yes, it’s little too short. Which expander do you use if I may ask?
Which expander do you use in your build? That what comes with a frame or something else?I ordered this:
I have DEDA handlebar and stem and I wonder that I need to buy DEDA expander or what?
I think with raw ud matte, the underlying carbon texture will have some sections that look flat black and other sections with fiber mesh. Raw ud glossy looks more like marble with varying fiber textures under a glossy clear coat.
I typically use clear nail polish with the glossy clear coat. It tends to hide blemishes quite well. Though I use this clear protection decal film on my frame. It blends well with the glossy clear coat and isn't noticeable whatsoever. Best to lightly apply it with a blow dryer or heat gun and it doesn't leave any adhesive residue when removing. I've tried the helicopter clear tape and I think that stuff sucks. It looks ugly and leaves residue when you remove it.
Protection decal film in black and clear:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808712099.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808712099.html)
Hey - that's my pic! ;D (I don't mind at all!)
Hi, longtime listener, first time caller here. I have read this entire thread through at least a couple times now and it's been very helpful.Love the colour. Lovely frameset.
Just to add some more data points here – I ordered my own frame about a week and a half ago and it shipped today. Spcycle was responsive and helpful over Aliexpress messaging. I picked chameleon blue (glossy, size 54cm). First three photos attached here are what they sent me before they shipped (I asked them to share pics before it got packed). The last photo is admittedly not my photo (sorry if not allowed!), but a pic someone else posted of their Spcycle gravel frame in chameleon blue. I was undecided on color until I saw this – damn. All my other bikes are pretty plain and I thought this color looked sexy AF. Admittedly now, in regular light, like in the photos they sent me, I do not like this paint color as much (it leans very purple for me), but oh well. Really, will I ever be 100% satisfied with all my bikes? Lol...not sure. about that.
Anyway, can't wait to receive it. It's my first carbon bike although I have many (too many) others. I plan on building it up with Dura-Ace r9170 and some Tagoola wheels that should also be arriving next week.
One thing I will note – I use Rakuten frequently as an online shopping portal (free to use) and have it linked to my Amex. They happened to be running a 25x points back promo the day I ordered (they do this every now and then and I was waiting for this). I ended up getting enough Amex points from this one purchase to get a domestic air ticket (or whatever). Nice bonus! If you don't use Amex you can also have it convert to cash back.
Will post more pics once I have the frame in hand.
Hi, longtime listener, first time caller here. I have read this entire thread through at least a couple times now and it's been very helpful.What I dont like that much about SPCycles chameleon paint is the thick flakes it has in the paint. I much prefer paintjobs from the surprised store. (but they dont carry this frame)
Just to add some more data points here – I ordered my own frame about a week and a half ago and it shipped today. Spcycle was responsive and helpful over Aliexpress messaging. I picked chameleon blue (glossy, size 54cm). First three photos attached here are what they sent me before they shipped (I asked them to share pics before it got packed). The last photo is admittedly not my photo (sorry if not allowed!), but a pic someone else posted of their Spcycle gravel frame in chameleon blue. I was undecided on color until I saw this – damn. All my other bikes are pretty plain and I thought this color looked sexy AF. Admittedly now, in regular light, like in the photos they sent me, I do not like this paint color as much (it leans very purple for me), but oh well. Really, will I ever be 100% satisfied with all my bikes? Lol...not sure. about that.
Anyway, can't wait to receive it. It's my first carbon bike although I have many (too many) others. I plan on building it up with Dura-Ace r9170 and some Tagoola wheels that should also be arriving next week.
One thing I will note – I use Rakuten frequently as an online shopping portal (free to use) and have it linked to my Amex. They happened to be running a 25x points back promo the day I ordered (they do this every now and then and I was waiting for this). I ended up getting enough Amex points from this one purchase to get a domestic air ticket (or whatever). Nice bonus! If you don't use Amex you can also have it convert to cash back.
Will post more pics once I have the frame in hand.
I’m just about finished with my 105 Di2 build and thought I’d share a little workaround I came up with for the battery install in case it helps anyone else.
The stock clip that’s supposed to hold the battery under the seatpost never seated properly for me—the tabs just wouldn’t click into the holes on the post. The “proper” fix would probably be trimming a couple millimeters off the seatpost, but I wasn’t too keen on that.
Instead, I went with a simpler solution: I added two small zip ties to the battery so I can pull it out easily after sliding it into the seattube. One zip tie holds the second in place, which acts as a little grab handle. The battery sits in the seatpost with the connectors facing up, and the extra cable tucks neatly inside.
With a bit of wiggling (but no force) the battery slides all the way into the narrower section of the seattube and is still very easy to remove. For reference, it sits about 20 cm down from the seattube opening to the top of the battery. The seatpost itself goes in just as far as it would without the battery/wiring (sticky layer fully inserted), and I was also able to use the hole behind the front derailleur mount without any trouble
I hope this is useful for others facing the same issue.
Here's the finished frame!What colour did you go for?
Unfortunately, the logo and lettering came out glossy instead of matte as I requested (>:(), and (at least in the photos) the contrast between the frame and the lettering is a bit too strong... I would have preferred a more subtle contrast. :(
I should have it in my hands next week...if I really don't like it, I'll opt for new stickers to apply on top, or have them completely removed from under the clear coat.
What colour did you go for?Hi, I had the frame painted locally, while I had Speedy Decal make the decals (customizing the font and Spcycle logo).
Did they charge for the decals?
Recently installed easeadon 50 mm wheels with galfer road wave cl discs, I am happy that after the Shimano discs I did not have to adjust anything. The weight of the bike with pedals and a computer mount was 7.170 kg. I rode the TT 20 km on it with an average speed of 43.2 km / h. I am happy with how light the bike is, but unfortunately I have problems with the front shifting, the chain often dropped to the outside. This happens during sprints and when riding on bad roads, it's annoying, especially during races. I am trying to figure out what the reason is, maybe the frame is too flexible and this causes the front derailleur to push the chain to the outside. I adjusted the derailleur according to the site bettershifting
Doubting whether or not to get their integrated handlebar with the frameset.
For those who got it with the bike......
1-What's it like?
2-Does it flex much?
3-What's the 130 drop like?
4- what's 9 degree angle like?
5- Also no flare at all, right?
It sucks a bit that the 38cm is only offered with 80/90 stem lengths.
Sorry a lot questions there. Hope someone can help me make up my mind.
Anyone before I make the order?It depends on your tastes....glossy black is always good, but I would dare with another metallic color: I really like purple (both light and dark), otherwise a nice golden yellow (nr.15) that I haven't seen yet! ;D
Going with a boring black glossy finish at the end.
It depends on your tastes....glossy black is always good, but I would dare with another metallic color: I really like purple (both light and dark), otherwise a nice golden yellow (nr.15) that I haven't seen yet! ;D
Recently installed easeadon 50 mm wheels with galfer road wave cl discs, I am happy that after the Shimano discs I did not have to adjust anything. The weight of the bike with pedals and a computer mount was 7.170 kg. I rode the TT 20 km on it with an average speed of 43.2 km / h. I am happy with how light the bike is, but unfortunately I have problems with the front shifting, the chain often dropped to the outside. This happens during sprints and when riding on bad roads, it's annoying, especially during races. I am trying to figure out what the reason is, maybe the frame is too flexible and this causes the front derailleur to push the chain to the outside. I adjusted the derailleur according to the site bettershiftingWow! That is fast! a 20km Time trial on this bike? 43 average without aerobars. Nice! Goes to show how fast this bike is too.
Thanks for your colour suggestions. They are good ones but I think I made up my mind now about glossy black. I have been back and forwards with different colours and finishes and I think I'll stick to what I know to avoid disappointments.
I am planning on putting some decals to make the glossy black a bit more "interesting". :-)
Thanks for your colour suggestions. They are good ones but I think I made up my mind now about glossy black. I have been back and forwards with different colours and finishes and I think I'll stick to what I know to avoid disappointments.What kind of decals were you thinking of putting on? ;)
I am planning on putting some decals to make the glossy black a bit more "interesting". :-)
Just here to give a little update on my bike. I own the frame since end of february now and rode >2200km and a ton of elevation. I'm super happy with the bike. It was giving me zero issues during the whole time. My recent highlight was a five day trip to france using the bike. I did roughly 10.000 meters of elevation during this time and climbed Alpe d'Huez, Col de la Croix de Fer, Col du Sabot and many more. The bike handled it extremely well. It is more built like an allrounder bike and not optimized for climbing but i think with shallower wheels the frame offers potential to build a pretty light climber. I don't regret going for this frame at all and would always buy it again. For me and my needs it's probably still the most interesting chinese road bike frame at the moment. Roughly 2200€ for this bike with carbon frame, carbon wheels, electronic shifting and powermeter still feels like such an amazing deal and probably beats all western pre built bikes.
I bought frame with that number 12 colour - dark purple. It looks amazing :)Have you finished assembling the frame yet?
Just here to give a little update on my bike. I own the frame since end of february now and rode >2200km and a ton of elevation. I'm super happy with the bike. It was giving me zero issues during the whole time. My recent highlight was a five day trip to france using the bike. I did roughly 10.000 meters of elevation during this time and climbed Alpe d'Huez, Col de la Croix de Fer, Col du Sabot and many more. The bike handled it extremely well. It is more built like an allrounder bike and not optimized for climbing but i think with shallower wheels the frame offers potential to build a pretty light climber. I don't regret going for this frame at all and would always buy it again. For me and my needs it's probably still the most interesting chinese road bike frame at the moment. Roughly 2200€ for this bike with carbon frame, carbon wheels, electronic shifting and powermeter still feels like such an amazing deal and probably beats all western pre built bikes.Reviews like these convince me I made the right choice! Thank you!
Have you finished assembling the frame yet?
We're curious to see the final result! ;)
Wow! That is fast! a 20km Time trial on this bike? 43 average without aerobars. Nice! Goes to show how fast this bike is too.Yes, TT on this bike, without aerobars. Too bad I don't have a power meter, I really wanted to see the numbers. I rode at almost the same average speed last year on a time trial bike. The race had 2 laps of 10 km. I hope that the chain drop is not related to the flexible frame.
I can only imagine that the derailleur isnt adjusted in the correct way, There is no way 'frame flex' on that small distance is able to throw the chain off.
I can't entirely tell from the picture, but it looks like the FD has more space to be closer to the chainring. I usually have about a 2mm gap. A larger gap between the FD and chainring could be the cause of your outer chain drop.The gap was about 3mm but I lowered it a bit more, maybe that will help. I also adjusted the B-gap and I will have to shorten the chain. I will keep you updated, thanks for the help.
Here's the finished frame!
Unfortunately, the logo and lettering came out glossy instead of matte as I requested (>:(), and (at least in the photos) the contrast between the frame and the lettering is a bit too strong... I would have preferred a more subtle contrast. :(
I should have it in my hands next week...if I really don't like it, I'll opt for new stickers to apply on top, or have them completely removed from under the clear coat.
Just curious. What colour is this? Doesnt look just plain white or is it?I would define it as an "off-white" (a mix of white and light grey), with a marbled effect.
I would define it as an "off-white" (a mix of white and light grey), with a marbled effect.
The gap was about 3mm but I lowered it a bit more, maybe that will help. I also adjusted the B-gap and I will have to shorten the chain. I will keep you updated, thanks for the help.
How did you request that? I love that effect. I have that "frosted" effect on my Yoeleo gravel frame and its amazing.The frame was not painted by Spcycle, but by a painter in my area. ;)
Anyone ordered the frame with the handlebars?
I did, the bars are nothing special but are stiff enough, ended up swapping them for the T4 Ultra https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008543319770.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008543319770.html).
Sharing some photos of my frame, which I received a few days ago. Shipping was pretty fast – under two weeks to the USA. Looking forward to building this up!
Sharing some photos of my frame, which I received a few days ago. Shipping was pretty fast – under two weeks to the USA. Looking forward to building this up!
Anyone tried installing a mechanical groupset? How bad is the routing?
Anyone tried installing a mechanical groupset? How bad is the routing?I did 1x11 mechanical, which was super straight forward. The 'issue' that some have identified, there are people that have built mechanical 2x, is the tightness/lack of space around the BB and potentially running 4 cables into the handlebar. The handlebar 'issue' can be mitigated depending on handlebar choice and whether you choose separate stem and handlebar and use the stock headset cover with holes in to avoid running cables directly up through the stem into the bar (which granted looks neater, but is an additional complexity/consideration especially with 4 cables).
Is that chameleon blue? or purple? It's beautiful !
How are you liking the color in person? I was thinking about going for the same option.
It's chameleon blue! But it definitely leans purple depending on the light.
where did people order their from? Aliexpress or direct contact ?
I just ordered mine through AliExpress in Chameleon Blue. I almost went with black to save a few dollars and grams, but my current bike has a boring paint job and I'm ready for something a little more colorful. I haven't had an interesting paint job since I owned a Klein MTB back in the day.Hi, I don't know what is your wheels budget, but if you're looking for something lightweight, a set with carbon spokes is definitely the best option for keeping weight down.
Now it's time to get started gathering parts. I'm going to do a SRAM build with a mixture of Force and Rival, plus some AliExpress stuff like handlebars, crank, and saddle. I already have a cheap 3D printed saddle that I'm happy with, so I'll just move that over and put one of my old saddles on my current bike.
The main decision I need to make is which wheels I'm going to get. I'm thinking about something in the 40-50mm depth range, as light as possible. I have barely done any research on wheels at all yet, so I have a lot of work to do. I hope to decide on the wheels, bar/stem, and crank by the end of this week so I can order everything and hope that it arrives within a reasonable timeframe.
Main goal is to keep the budget under $5,000 and get as close to 7kg as possible. We'll see how that goes. I'm probably too cheap to spend that full amount when it comes down to it, so I might end up closer to 7.5kg.
what handlebars are you considering?
I'm leaning towards the Lexon Vero right now because there is a 36cm option with a 110mm stem. I'm going to keep looking around. I'm willing to stick with 38cm if I can find something cheaper.This Kocevlo would be measuring 36x110:
Nice, I ordered the same color! I agree it looks quite purple so I wonder what Chameleo Purple actually looks like!
Hello,
I know that was the topic about LTWOO battery on swatting but I can’t find it quick and I need help.
How you resolve this? The seattube is too narrow and is no chance to put LTWOO battery in.
Can you show how you make it happen? Maybe with photos etc?
Thank you a lot!
But I don’t have any battery holder. It wasn’t in package with groupset.
How does it look like?
I ordered a frame on 24th of August in chameleon purple and I am currently waiting for the customs letter to reach me. I'll upload some pictures probably next week.
Otherwise, if you're happy with the 38x115 size, there's also this ElitaOne, which is the model I bought (but I still have to assemble/try it):
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.1.53c9X5WcX5Wc7e&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.439370.0&scm_id=1007.40196.439370.0&scm-url=1007.40196.439370.0&pvid=0ca5bf93-3e94-4e60-8088-a866899529f8&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.439370.0,pvid:0ca5bf93-3e94-4e60-8088-a866899529f8,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%223578%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22orig_sl_item_id%22%3A%221005006994695246%22%2C%22orig_item_id%22%3A%221005009454191395%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21139.98%2162.99%21%21%211147.38%21516.31%21%40211b804117581831755146375ed59c%2112000050471970648%21rec%21IT%214842187332%21XZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A705091ad%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005006994695246%7C_p_origin_prod%3A1005009454191395
Those stem lenghts for the 380 bars seem a bit odd. Is the 115 really a 120? The bars seem to curve forward a bit.I assume the stem length is as indicated: so 115 should be 115mm.
Looking forward now to having it built with Rival AXS. I will use a combo Mosso stem (integrated cable routing) + aero bards till I figure out whether I wanna go with an integrated handlebar or not. I always like rotating the bars a bit pointing up if that makes any sense.
As for me, I like messing with spacer height, stem length, bar width, etc. I know a cyclist who keeps going to the bike fitter due to hand discomfort, but there's only so much you can do with an integrated bar setup. These fitters are just fleecing him of cash when it really comes down to bar width, stem length and spacer height to get optimal fit. The best they can do with his setup is raise/lower or tilt his shifters!I am in the same boat than you. I am constantly rotating the bars looking for a more aero or comfy position so I see myself not moving to integrated bars ever even though I keep being tempted.
This has probably already been written....I'd like to know how much to tighten the expander inside the fork steerer tube.I used the cane creek Ancora expander on mine.
The Specialized SL8, if I remember correctly, should be tightened to 5Nm.
I used the cane creek Ancora expander on mine.I opted directly for a Deda 70mm expander which should be tightened to 5Nm max....so I don't think there should be any problems with the fork steerer tube, but I don't seem to have read any specific instructions from Spcycle.
9nm torque spec, so did it to that. No issues.
I used some cheapo AliExpress expanders before including the FSA clone and had constant reoccurring loose headset, as the expanders kept rattling loose. Cane creek gave me good bearing preload since and have not needed to re-tighten.
So after a few trips to the customs it's finally there. Chameleon Purple, looks bluer in the daylight photos than it actually is. In artificial light more like metallic purple in late summer daylight it changes from a rich purple to a purplish blue that is on the lighter blue side. I am quite happy with the colour, even though I assumed a more pronounced chameleon effect. If there is a next time I'd consider a plain metallic colour (or paint it myself).
Weight is (56cm):
904g frame with 5(+2 on fd mount) screws + front derailleur mount + mounted UDH; advertised 780g +/-50g
404g uncut fork; advertised: 390+/-15g
180g seatpost with screws; advertised: 175+/-10g
360g handlebar; advertised: 360+/-20g
23g thru axle front
37g thru axle back with one washer
Not too happy about the overweight frame even considering it's 56cm and painted.
Quality wise the bad stuff first:
- The drain hole is not the most precise (not round and you can feel the carbon fibres on the inside) I hope it will not negatively affect the integrity probably the the most failure prone area of a carbon frame.
- You can feel quite a few slight bumps in the paint, they are to small to see though.
- Very minor imperfections in the paint (2-3, the worst is in the last picture, however it is hard to capture and is way more noticeable and bumpy than it looks).
- Seatpost is a very tight fit, too much for my liking.
I consider most of the bad stuff quite minor and otherwise it seems to me very well build, the insides that I can touch are well build, the holes on the fork are good. Overall I am very happy considering the price I paid (with coupon codes on Aliexpress).
Is that chameleon and matte?[…]
So after a few trips to the customs it's finally there (to Germany ordered 24th, letter from customs on 23rd). Chameleon Purple matte, looks bluer in the daylight photos than it actually is. In artificial light more like metallic purple in late summer daylight it changes from a rich purple to a purplish blue that is on the lighter blue side. I am quite happy with the colour, even though I assumed a more pronounced chameleon effect. If there is a next time I'd consider a plain metallic colour (or paint it myself).The stated weight, if I remember correctly, refers to the raw, unpainted frame...my size 56 raw frame weighed 820g (with screws and FD mount), while the painted frame (white marbled effect with stickers and an additional coat of clear coat between the frame and stickers) now weighs 930g (without screws and FD mount).
Weight is (56cm):
904g frame with 5(+2 on fd mount) screws + front derailleur mount + mounted UDH; advertised 780g +/-50g
404g uncut fork; advertised: 390+/-15g
180g seatpost with screws; advertised: 175+/-10g
360g handlebar; advertised: 360+/-20g
23g thru axle front
37g thru axle back with one washer
Not too happy about the overweight frame even considering it's 56cm and painted.
Quality wise the bad stuff first:
- The drain hole is not the most precise (not round and you can feel the carbon fibres on the inside) I hope it will not negatively affect the integrity probably the the most failure prone area of a carbon frame.
- You can feel quite a few slight bumps in the paint, they are to small to see though.
- Very minor imperfections in the paint (2-3, the worst is in the last picture, however it is hard to capture and is way more noticeable and bumpy than it looks).
- Seatpost is a very tight fit, too much for my liking.
I consider most of the bad stuff quite minor and otherwise it seems to me very well built, the insides that I can touch smooth and clean, the holes on the fork are good. Overall I am very happy considering the price I paid (with coupon codes and cashback on Aliexpress). Also it is incredibly easy to see and feel very minor imperfections on the paint and I consider the paint job good to very good.
edit: I just mounted brakes and pulled the cables through. The cables went through very easily, probably this means it's very smooth inside. I think that's a good sign for the quality of the mold. One thread for the brakes on the fork was very rough. I considered cutting the thread again, but in the end decided against it.
Hi, does anybody know the length of the bolts needed to install Sram brake calipers (front and rear)?
Edit: I already figured 15mm front and 32mm rear.
Frame now painted Black Gloss and shipped. :-)
858.5g in size 52
https://ibb.co/m57g4kyB
https://ibb.co/k6JkzTZr
So after a few trips to the customs it's finally there (to Germany ordered 24th, letter from customs on 23rd). Chameleon Purple matte, looks bluer in the daylight photos than it actually is. In artificial light more like metallic purple in late summer daylight it changes from a rich purple to a purplish blue that is on the lighter blue side. I am quite happy with the colour, even though I assumed a more pronounced chameleon effect. If there is a next time I'd consider a plain metallic colour (or paint it myself).I see they changed the top cover of the headset and now the standard equipment also includes various spacers for the handlebar.
Weight is (56cm):
904g frame with 5(+2 on fd mount) screws + front derailleur mount + mounted UDH; advertised 780g +/-50g
404g uncut fork; advertised: 390+/-15g
180g seatpost with screws; advertised: 175+/-10g
360g handlebar; advertised: 360+/-20g
23g thru axle front
37g thru axle back with one washer
Not too happy about the overweight frame even considering it's 56cm and painted.
Quality wise the bad stuff first:
- The drain hole is not the most precise (not round and you can feel the carbon fibres on the inside) I hope it will not negatively affect the integrity probably the the most failure prone area of a carbon frame.
- You can feel quite a few slight bumps in the paint, they are to small to see though.
- Very minor imperfections in the paint (2-3, the worst is in the last picture, however it is hard to capture and is way more noticeable and bumpy than it looks).
- Seatpost is a very tight fit, too much for my liking.
I consider most of the bad stuff quite minor and otherwise it seems to me very well built, the insides that I can touch smooth and clean, the holes on the fork are good. Overall I am very happy considering the price I paid (with coupon codes and cashback on Aliexpress). Also it is incredibly easy to see and feel very minor imperfections on the paint and I consider the paint job good to very good.
edit: I just mounted brakes and pulled the cables through. The cables went through very easily, probably this means it's very smooth inside. I think that's a good sign for the quality of the mold. One thread for the brakes on the fork was very rough. I considered cutting the thread again, but in the end decided against it.
My size 52 UD raw glossy came in around 790g. Either black paint adds almost 70g or maybe they've switched out or added CF material to the frame?In fairness to them they said it'd come around 840g before getting painted so they weren't that far off. I've watched few videos of people painting frames and the paint weighs 100/150g so I gues maybe they actually did a good job painting :-)
Did I read anyone writing here that the SL8 seatpost clones sold in AliExpress fit the R088?
Thanks to everyone in this thread for posting your experiences, both good and bad. It's been very helpful. I don't expect a quick build, but I should have it done by the end of the month.
Is there two type of seatposts Spcycle is sending? I see this last one with a round head (circle) and others with the more "classic" head.It depends on the seatpost offset.
Also, anyone with a 380mm seatpost who doesn't mind telling me how many mm till the "rough" surface starts (from top or bottom I dont mind).
Here it is a photo of my 300mm for reference.
https://ibb.co/jkRqVx2D
Mine's about 50mm from the bottom.So in a 300mm, from the bottom, it is about 45mm "clear" UD, 125mm "rough" and 130 "clear" UD.
So in a 300mm, from the bottom, it is about 45mm "clear" UD, 125mm "rough" and 130 "clear" UD.
What's the 380mm like?
Hello,
My first post about first build. Order and delivery went smooth and took about 1 month. Weights are in par with another buyers experience. It's another one with raw carbon glossy finish. I planed to swap everything from my old bike (cracked frame). But in last minute i decided to go with KOCEVLO TB340 (360-110mm) wich is most interesting part of my build because it was a bit of gamble with no reviews or even mention. Handelbar look cool but quality is average. I only did few very short test rides. My initial feelings are that rxl sl carbon bar with light uno stem in same dimensions is stiffer. Removable cover make internal routing really easy, without it i would stay with old setup. Overall ride feels more comfortable as my previous bike (2019 Radon Spire). I need to fine tune shifting and breaks (some disc rub with power down) and ride more to have valuable opinion.
Hi, sorry to bother you, mate. I love the finish of your frame. How did you get that finish? It's exactly what I want, but I only see the matte and gloss black UD finishes on Spycycle. Best regards and thanks in advance.
Size 54
KOCEVLO TB340 handlebar
ulterga r8000 mech 50-34, pes powermeter 165 mm, shimano cs-hg700 11-34
elitewheels ent 2, conti 5000, ride now tubes
selle italia saddle
tacx bottle cages, shimano m520 pedals, rockbros computer mount
8.1 kg
Hi, sorry to bother you, mate. I love the finish of your frame. How did you get that finish? It's exactly what I want, but I only see the matte and gloss black UD finishes on Spycycle. Best regards and thanks in advance.
Hello everyone,It's not needed.
My Spcycle SP R088 frameset was delivered about a week ago.
This morning I started assembling the bike, and as you can see in the photo, the bearing cover doesn’t sit completely flush with the fork’s crown.
Am I doing something wrong or missing a part?(http://)
Hi everyone. First, I must say that this forum has been an incredibly helpful resource for figuring out what to look for in Chinese frames and components, and once again I will try to use you all to get more insight.Hi, since I haven't tested either frame, I can't give you a definitive answer.
I am in the market for a new frame, and I am torn between Spcycle R088 and LongTeng LTK266-D-SL. Both seem like good deals, are fairly lightweight, and tick all other boxes in regards to how I want my next bike to be (UDH, wide tire clearance etc.). Both being relatively good frames that match my objective criteria, I am now thinking that the ride feel should be an important deciding factor also. For example, people in the LongTeng thread mention how the ride can be relatively boring and how LTK266-D-SL is not aero at all, but I have problems with figuring out how this frame would relate to that. Overall, since the difference of 100g is not going to make much difference when climbing, I am going to list the "ride feel" criteria ordered by importance (skipping any criteria I do not really think about):
- Absorbing the road noise. For long rides, I find that my current bike is relatively unforgiving, which I would like to remedy.
- How fast the bike feels, the feeling of immediateness when accelerating and excitement when fast cornering. I imagine this makes riding fun, and I want the most of it that I can get.
- How tucked in do I have to be when riding on the flats; I feel like I am relatively flexible, and the ride position can be manipulated with headset spacers, stem lenght, and seat position. Even though I would like to go fast (=be tucked in), I can't tell which of these two frames is going to be more flexible in regards to how I set up the bike and position myself. It it matters, I am 184cm/70kg and currently ride a relatively aggressive geometry. Both of these frames should allow me to get a more relaxed position in size L/56, but I am wondering about if there are any significant differences between the two.
For example, in regards to aero, both Spcycle and LongTeng feature a D-shaped seatpost, a slight cutout for the rear wheel, and arguably a non-aero circular headtube. However, people in the other thread are explicitly saying that LTK266-D-SL is not aero, but when I compare the geometry to R088 (see here for sizes L/56: https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l,spcycle-r088-2025-56/), the headtube of the latter is higher, and the stack heights are similar. LTK266-D-SL also has 35mm tire clearance, and it is impossible for me to judge whether this meaningfully affects performance (given the same tires and wheels on both frames). What should I make of this? I am asking about aero since I relate it with the feeling of going fast -- but since I lack the experience with different frames, I am also wondering whether any of these properties are going to significantly affect my comfort?
Next thing relates to the stiffness of both frames. It has been mentioned in this thread that some flex has been noticed in the top-tube, while LTK266-D-SL uses higher-grade carbon, which is stiffer and perhaps more uncomfortable. I don't really know how to think about this, and if someone can provide some insight, it would really help my decision process.
Thank you all for any insights that you might have. General opinions about whether picking one frame over the other is going to have a noticeable impact in the first place are also welcome. I am also wondering how informed my decision can even be without trying out both frames, as it seems difficult to judge such specific criteria based on frame images, specs and reports from other riders who have only ridden one of the two frames.
Hi, since I haven't tested either frame, I can't give you a definitive answer.
However, I have a few comments on the data you posted:
1) I think the stack you reported on the LTK266-D-SL isn't correct... if you look at the geometry on the LTbike website, the stack in the L size is 559mm, not 564mm;
2) Reading the specs, the carbon used is T800 for the LTK266-D-SL and T1000 for the R088, so theoretically the T1000 of the R088 is "better," and should be stiffer;
3) Keep in mind that a stiffer frame also means more vibrations transmitted from the road (with the same wheels and tires);
4) Looking at the geometry of the two frames, although the LTK266-D-SL has a lower stack height, overall it seems to have more "relaxed" geometry (see 7mm shorter reach and 72.5° head angle versus the R088's 73.5°).
Considering the above, if you're looking for a more responsive frame, perhaps (based on paper) the R088 might be the better choice.
My criteria, however, is primarily aesthetic...so (if the geometry is good), I'd say get the one you like best. ;D
Hi, since I haven't tested either frame, I can't give you a definitive answer.
However, I have a few comments on the data you posted:
1) I think the stack you reported on the LTK266-D-SL isn't correct... if you look at the geometry on the LTbike website, the stack in the L size is 559mm, not 564mm;
2) Reading the specs, the carbon used is T800 for the LTK266-D-SL and T1000 for the R088, so theoretically the T1000 of the R088 is "better," and should be stiffer;
3) Keep in mind that a stiffer frame also means more vibrations transmitted from the road (with the same wheels and tires);
4) Looking at the geometry of the two frames, although the LTK266-D-SL has a lower stack height, overall it seems to have more "relaxed" geometry (see 7mm shorter reach and 72.5° head angle versus the R088's 73.5°).
Considering the above, if you're looking for a more responsive frame, perhaps (based on paper) the R088 might be the better choice.
My criteria, however, is primarily aesthetic...so (if the geometry is good), I'd say get the one you like best. ;D
Hi everyone. First, I must say that this forum has been an incredibly helpful resource for figuring out what to look for in Chinese frames and components, and once again I will try to use you all to get more insight.
I am in the market for a new frame, and I am torn between Spcycle R088 and LongTeng LTK266-D-SL. Both seem like good deals, are fairly lightweight, and tick all other boxes in regards to how I want my next bike to be (UDH, wide tire clearance etc.). Both being relatively good frames that match my objective criteria, I am now thinking that the ride feel should be an important deciding factor also. For example, people in the LongTeng thread mention how the ride can be relatively boring and how LTK266-D-SL is not aero at all, but I have problems with figuring out how this frame would relate to that. Overall, since the difference of 100g is not going to make much difference when climbing, I am going to list the "ride feel" criteria ordered by importance (skipping any criteria I do not really think about):
- Absorbing the road noise. For long rides, I find that my current bike is relatively unforgiving, which I would like to remedy.
- How fast the bike feels, the feeling of immediateness when accelerating and excitement when fast cornering. I imagine this makes riding fun, and I want the most of it that I can get.
- How tucked in do I have to be when riding on the flats; I feel like I am relatively flexible, and the ride position can be manipulated with headset spacers, stem lenght, and seat position. Even though I would like to go fast (=be tucked in), I can't tell which of these two frames is going to be more flexible in regards to how I set up the bike and position myself. It it matters, I am 184cm/70kg and currently ride a relatively aggressive geometry. Both of these frames should allow me to get a more relaxed position in size L/56, but I am wondering about if there are any significant differences between the two.
For example, in regards to aero, both Spcycle and LongTeng feature a D-shaped seatpost, a slight cutout for the rear wheel, and arguably a non-aero circular headtube. However, people in the other thread are explicitly saying that LTK266-D-SL is not aero, but when I compare the geometry to R088 (see here for sizes L/56: https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/longteng-ltk266-d-sl-2025-l,spcycle-r088-2025-56/), the headtube of the latter is higher, and the stack heights are similar. LTK266-D-SL also has 35mm tire clearance, and it is impossible for me to judge whether this meaningfully affects performance (given the same tires and wheels on both frames). What should I make of this? I am asking about aero since I relate it with the feeling of going fast -- but since I lack the experience with different frames, I am also wondering whether any of these properties are going to significantly affect my comfort?
Next thing relates to the stiffness of both frames. It has been mentioned in this thread that some flex has been noticed in the top-tube, while LTK266-D-SL uses higher-grade carbon, which is stiffer and perhaps more uncomfortable. I don't really know how to think about this, and if someone can provide some insight, it would really help my decision process.
Thank you all for any insights that you might have. General opinions about whether picking one frame over the other is going to have a noticeable impact in the first place are also welcome. I am also wondering how informed my decision can even be without trying out both frames, as it seems difficult to judge such specific criteria based on frame images, specs and reports from other riders who have only ridden one of the two frames.
Hi, I’m very satisfied with the frameset — the quality is excellent. However, when I install the half-cut C-shaped cap piece (which I believe is meant to lock the upper bearing), there’s a gap in my setup as shown in the photos. What am I doing wrong?
I asked the Spcycle store on AliExpress about this situation, and they replied that it’s completely normal. What do you think?
Hi, I’m very satisfied with the frameset — the quality is excellent. However, when I install the half-cut C-shaped cap piece (which I believe is meant to lock the upper bearing), there’s a gap in my setup as shown in the photos. What am I doing wrong?
I asked the Spcycle store on AliExpress about this situation, and they replied that it’s completely normal. What do you think?
You pulled the numbers from the LTK266D, not the SL model. The 266DSL in theory, is M65, T1000, and T1100. How much of those materials is used, and whether or not there is a fourth material, is an open question.You're right, sorry...I didn't realize the search engine directed me to the "normal" model (not SL).
Hi, since I haven't tested either frame, I can't give you a definitive answer.
However, I have a few comments on the data you posted:
1) I think the stack you reported on the LTK266-D-SL isn't correct... if you look at the geometry on the LTbike website, the stack in the L size is 559mm, not 564mm;
2) Reading the specs, the carbon used is T800 for the LTK266-D-SL and T1000 for the R088, so theoretically the T1000 of the R088 is "better," and should be stiffer;
3) Keep in mind that a stiffer frame also means more vibrations transmitted from the road (with the same wheels and tires);
4) Looking at the geometry of the two frames, although the LTK266-D-SL has a lower stack height, overall it seems to have more "relaxed" geometry (see 7mm shorter reach and 72.5° head angle versus the R088's 73.5°).
Considering the above, if you're looking for a more responsive frame, perhaps (based on paper) the R088 might be the better choice.
My criteria, however, is primarily aesthetic...so (if the geometry is good), I'd say get the one you like best. ;D
You pulled the numbers from the LTK266D, not the SL model. The 266DSL in theory, is M65, T1000, and T1100. How much of those materials is used, and whether or not there is a fourth material, is an open question.
Regarding comfort, the big benefit of more clearance is the option to run wider tires, should you want to. Otherwise hard to see an upside or downside. Top tubes are primarily in tension so flex by squeezing it will mean close to nothing. I don't know if there is a single person on this forum who has experience with both frames who can comment on ride feel. One thing to keep in mind is that once you include the cost of sourcing your own headset, and add in the cost of paint, thru axles, and shipping the LTK266DSL ends up being a lot more expensive than this frame.
Did it come with two of the c-rings? Mine did and they were ever so slightly different sizes - when I changed to the other one the gap disappearedhi Mine only came with one C-ring, not two. So I didn’t have another one to try, and the gap is still there,, there was a 0.9 mm gap between the headset and the spacers caused by the C-ring. I spent about 4 hours sanding it down, and now the gap is reduced to around 0.25 mm. ;D
What are you using? It took me an hour or so but I used a file, only once happy did i go to sanding to clean it up80 grit sandpaper
Has anyone thought of using a cap to close the fork hole?
In case have you any links to suggest?
Thank you
Another question: is the front derailleur support sufficient to screw it on or have you applied grease/threadlocker?
Can the central hole be left open or better put a cap?
Thank you
Work in progress..... but unfortunately I encountered a problem with the headset cover of the Elita One SL8 handlebar: the diameter is correct, but once the fork leg is inserted the cover is moved forward and protrudes from the head tube, leaving the bearing uncovered!
The headset cover that comes with the frame instead seems to be fine.... How do you think the problem could be solved?
By any chance someone mounts the same handlebar and has experienced the same thing? :(
Has anyone noticed any issues with the flex of this frame? I can bend the chainstays without much effort, causing the pads to touch the disc. Overall, the frame seems pretty flexible, probably the most flexible I've ever owned. I hope it doesn't affect the speed too much. This is probably not surprising given the weight and price of this frame. Perhaps it would have been better to order the new lightweight Long Teng frame; it has more massive chainstays and greater clearance for wider tires.
My build is complete (well, mostly – crankset is going to get swapped soon but waiting on shipping). Did a brief 25~ mile shake out ride today and my goodness this thing is fast. It accelerates very easily and feels very zippy, even though imho the geo is not that aggressive.Hello. What paint is the frame? Metallic or chameleon? I want to buy this frame on AliExpress. I'm choosing the frame color and want to see how it will look. It's a shame that people mostly buy unpainted frames.
I wasn't really trying for a particularly weight weenie build but it clocks at 15.2lbs.
Time will tell but pretty happy with this so far and excited to ride it more!
Hello. What paint is the frame? Metallic or chameleon? I want to buy this frame on AliExpress. I'm choosing the frame color and want to see how it will look. It's a shame that people mostly buy unpainted frames.
That looks great. What brand etc is your bar tape?
I'd use mild loctite. My FD screws initially loosened up and was causing poor FD shifting. I periodically check it to make sure they're on tightly. I opted to use the mechanical FD hole as opposed to the hole behind FD plate because it was easier for me to route the battery cable with my ER9 groupset. You could always place some tape or a rubber grommet for moisture protection.I'll be using a Sram Force Etap AXS groupset (wireless), so I was thinking of applying a flat rubber cap to close the hole...if anyone has already done this and has a specific model to recommend, please let me know.
Can't help you on the handle bars since I went with a separate bar and stem. Are you planning to use that many spacers though? That seems a bit excessive. Did you get a frame too small for your reach/height?No, absolutely not! I don't need all those spacers, but I still need to cut the fork! ;D
No, absolutely not! I don't need all those spacers, but I still need to cut the fork! ;DCould be worth trying the attached.
Regarding the issue I encountered with the headset cover, I tried contacting the manufacturer to see if it's a defect in mine, or if the model is incompatible with the R088 frame...in this case, to use the handlebars, I'd need to find another round cover that fits the SL8-type spacers.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
Could be worth trying the attached.I imagine this is it, and it's one of the few that I would have found too.....but the external diameter is 56mm, if I remember correctly the headset cover supplied with the frame is 57/58mm.
I imagine this is it, and it's one of the few that I would have found too.....but the external diameter is 56mm, if I remember correctly the headset cover supplied with the frame is 57/58mm.
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007351948558.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.3688nIRinIRiaZ&algo_pvid=b4bfb5e9-7dc8-4d9d-b5fb-38b789582604&algo_exp_id=b4bfb5e9-7dc8-4d9d-b5fb-38b789582604-2&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2234%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2132.16%2117.69%21%21%21257.69%21141.74%21%402103834817621809374716137e9d4d%2112000040386764664%21sea%21IT%214842187332%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A705091ad%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=mTA24UE7QSSm&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005007351948558%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
EDIT: I was confused about the diameter with another model I would find, which is this one:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007784688945.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3688nIRinIRiaZ&algo_pvid=b4bfb5e9-7dc8-4d9d-b5fb-38b789582604&algo_exp_id=b4bfb5e9-7dc8-4d9d-b5fb-38b789582604-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%227%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2144.29%2144.29%21%21%21354.89%21354.89%21%402103834817621809374716137e9d4d%2112000042192822330%21sea%21IT%214842187332%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A705091ad%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=re0hBconLbDT&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005007784688945%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
I'm willing to bet that this Ryet set would work. Would it be a clean transition to your stem, that's a different question. Looks exactly like what came with my Lexon Vero handlebar, which worked great. All the measurements are there, so try to compare yours and I would be interested to know what went wrong with yours.Hi, the 59mm top cap might be right for me...can you send me the link?
I'm willing to bet that this Ryet set would work. Would it be a clean transition to your stem, that's a different question. Looks exactly like what came with my Lexon Vero handlebar, which worked great. All the measurements are there, so try to compare yours and I would be interested to know what went wrong with yours.Sorry, I realized I didn't reply to you...the problem with the headset top cap supplied with the Elita One SL8 handlebar (but I believe it applies to all Roval Rapide replica models) is that the fork hole isn't centered on the outer diameter of the round cap. There's a misalignment (purple arrow in the photo) between the two axes (see green and yellow lines in the photo), so the headset top cap doesn't completely cover the head tube hole and protrudes from the frame at the front (hope I explained).
CSC Wheels: The weight is as advertised, they're true and spin smoothly, but I'm having an issue. With the brakes applied, the wheel still moves front to back a little bit. I mistook it for headset play at first. I went back and tightened the hell out of my rotor lock rings, but that didn't solve the issue. I think it's moving at the hub, not related to the rotors. Could there be a problem with the bearings? It's disappointing. I'm also wondering if the wheels are somehow contributing to the disc rub problem.
The lever clamp screws are a pain to reach and I ended up stripping one because I had to torque the hell out of it to keep my levers from slipping on the bars.
Are you using centerlock to 6holes adapter?
This is the problem...
I have a question for those who have already assembled the frame: if I need to use the 160mm disc adapter for the rear brake caliper, what bolt length do you recommend: 32mm or 37mm?
Once threaded through the frame's lower stay, the 32mm bolt protrudes by 5mm....according to Sram's specifications it should protrude between 5-7mm.
I could only use the 37mm bolt for the rear hole because it would be too long for the front and would interfere with the brake caliper.
SRAM doesn't make intermediate bolt sizes.
I'm using standard Campagnolo Ekar centerlock brakes with no adapter. I might try a different lockring. I do think the play has something to do with the rotors, not the bearings in the hub. My lockrings have the little metal washers installed, so there's nothing missing. The rotors have more play than I would have expected before I tighten them up, but I assume that's normal and the lockrings should take care of that.
For Shimano I'm using 38 mm bolts.Did you install the 160mm disc adapter too?
Ok, so apparently the Ekar rotors are floating and are supposed to move like that. Kind of annoying when you're adjusting the headset, but shouldn't be an issue overall. It is strange how loose they fit before tightening the lock rings. See here for an example (Edit: removed the YT link that didn't work. The video is titled "Campagnolo Ekar disc brake rotors - problems with freeplay on the hub rotor spline" if anyone really wants to see it.) I checked after tightening the lock ring to be sure and there is no play in the black section where the rotor attaches to the hub, so all is well.What part did you have to file exactly?
I did some filing on the frame and got rid of my disc rub issue. It didn't take much. Now I'm a happy camper. It feels as good as my old rim brake bike on the climbs and now I'll actually be able to slow down when it rains. It handles well on descents- responsive but not too twitchy. I only have about 5 hours on it so far, but I can't wait to do more.
Did you install the 160mm disc adapter too?
I imagine the screw is protruding from the hole like in the photo I posted, am I right?
What part did you have to file exactly?
Thanks
For those who are running the Roval Cockpit. Do you have a nice looking solution? What about those 3D Prints offered for the Spec Allez Sprint in combination with the cockpit??!Hi, have you found any interesting solutions for the Roval Rapide cockpit?
I have a question for those who have already assembled the frame: if I need to use the 160mm disc adapter for the rear brake caliper, what bolt length do you recommend: 32mm or 37mm?Can anyone advise me on the best screw length?
Once threaded through the frame's lower stay, the 32mm bolt protrudes by 5mm....according to Sram's specifications it should protrude between 5-7mm.
I could only use the 37mm bolt for the rear hole because it would be too long for the front and would interfere with the brake caliper.
SRAM doesn't make intermediate bolt sizes.
Hello. I need help choosing a frame size. I'm 180 cm tall, with an inside leg length of 86 cm, if not 87 cm. My reach is about 184 cm. I'm not very flexible; my toes don't quite reach the floor. I'm choosing between a 54 and 56 frame size. I'm leaning toward the 54, but I'm concerned about whether I'll have to extend the seatpost too high, which will result in it fitting too tightly into the frame.
I use an online translator, so there may be inaccuracies.
Hello. I need help choosing a frame size. I'm 180 cm tall, with an inside leg length of 86 cm, if not 87 cm. My reach is about 184 cm. I'm not very flexible; my toes don't quite reach the floor. I'm choosing between a 54 and 56 frame size. I'm leaning toward the 54, but I'm concerned about whether I'll have to extend the seatpost too high, which will result in it fitting too tightly into the frame.
I use an online translator, so there may be inaccuracies.
Hello. I need help choosing a frame size. I'm 180 cm tall, with an inside leg length of 86 cm, if not 87 cm. My reach is about 184 cm. I'm not very flexible; my toes don't quite reach the floor. I'm choosing between a 54 and 56 frame size. I'm leaning toward the 54, but I'm concerned about whether I'll have to extend the seatpost too high, which will result in it fitting too tightly into the frame.
I use an online translator, so there may be inaccuracies.
Sorry! I posted this without realising there was 66 pages on this topic! 🤦. I’ll read through and see what I can answer for myself 😉
I’m hoping to use the R088 frame set in my new build and I now have a few of concerns.
-I can’t find any decent images of the raw carbon matt finish. They all seem pretty glossy. I did ask Spcycles via AliExpress, perhaps they didn’t get through.
- I wanted a 380/100 bar stem, but it appears this needs to be 380/90 or 400/100, shame!
- Do the forks look a bit chunky and non aero?
Are there any pics out there of completed builds and feedback on how the frame rides? Other than the gripes mentioned above. It looks great and just what I wanted! ;D
Hey guys!
I just read all 66 pages in this thread, wow! That was not nothing! 😅
I feel even more convinced the R088 is the right choice. I’m planning:
-54 black matt or Jonathan’s gloss clear coat over raw. Unless they do matt or satin over raw? 3rd and final choice, solid Army Green!
- Wheeltop EDS TX grupo, set up 2x12, 11-36 Ztto cassette, hydraulic 160/140 Shimano rotors
- Integrated SPC 380/90 combo, not the 380/100 I wanted but I’ll try it on the turbo with no brakes to see how it feels. Hopefully meaning I’ll the have complete, compatible headset & spacers even if I do decide to swap it out before doing brakes and using it on the road 🤔
- Non offset seatpost, I tend to ride forward and may balance shorter stem
- Ryet Ultimate wheels, 40 front, 50 rear 1070g 👌
- Lexon 52/36/165 crankset with spider PM
I’ve selected high end AliExpress pedals, bb, pu tubes, aero bottles, mag cages. But I will go KMC go wax chain, Michelin 240g tyres, Shimano rotors in these crucial areas.
~£2700 GBP, ~6.4kg ex pedals, bottles & cages ~6.7kg all in. Allowing ~150g for frame hardware and paint I didn’t previously add in. If I can hit or get below the UCI 6.8kg limit, ‘on the road’ it will be epic at that budget! Pressing the button this weekend hopefully 🤞
Cheers, Russ 🤩
Good morning, I ordered the R088 frame option with the handlebars. Does it include the GPS mount or do I have to buy it separately? Thank you.
The 11.11 sale ends on the 19th and hopefully you'll get the same coupon deals during the Black Friday sale. So I'd either buy before the 19th or wait to purchase the frame during Black Friday if you want those coupon savings. After that the next big coupon sale will be during the AliEx Summer sale.
I was able to hit 6.8kg with power meter, pedals, computer mount, chain catcher and bottle cages. I'm using fairly budget components as well (LTwoo v1 ER9, RYET saddle, Onirii/Thinkr pedals, etc.). Depending on which wheelset, tires and components I use, I usually hover around 6.9-7.3kg. I also really like the non-offset seat post option. It adds way more rider flexibility to the frame.
I'm wondering how you manage to get to such weights...I weighed mine (size 56) the other day: without pedals, chain, handlebar tape, and bottle cage, I'm at 7,1kg...so I expect a final weight around 7,650-7,750kg (also considering 80-90gr of latex).
Of course, the custom white marble paint and stickers are heavier than your clear coat (compared to the raw frame + about 150gr), the wheels 50mm aren't the lightest (about 1400g), and the groupset isn't the lightest either (Sram Force Etap AXS)....but 6,8-6,9kg seems really light to me!
Not that I'm particularly concerned about weight (my current rim brake bike weighs 7.5kg, always with PM), but I was hoping for a little less.
Carbon crankset, 1090g climbing wheels (bought from Easedon before prices went up), carbon/ti pedals, separate bar/stem combo (weighs less than most integrated bars), Onirii disc rotors, etc.
All the stuff I have is just off-the-shelf AliEx parts and the lack of paint cuts another few grams. I can go even lighter (go 1x, 80g saddle, modified brake calipers, swap to lightweight stem and round carbon bars), but chasing less weight is just more $$$ and my bike will end up being uncomfortable. I'm better off not drinking beer and indulging in pastries! ;D
GCN Tech just posted a video about this frame (and they made the same mistake as me to not consider the paint in the weight):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnXQc9p7Gxs
p.s.: Today will be the day I finish building everything (with a spacer on the top, which will get removed once I am sure about the height of the headset and a temporary handlebar tape). Good pictures will follow Thursday, possibly some also today.
Link to video please. I can't find it! :-(https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=hnXQc9p7Gxs
Man, GCN has the budget to make good videos and every once in a while they put out something good, but they tend to crap out a bunch of lazy content. Looks like the R088 videos are headed down the latter path. They're looking for engagement instead of trying to provide useful information- playing dumb about the weight of a white frame, giving it a bad paint job, fear mongering, etc.
My box was similarly beat up, but I didn't get a fake battery sticker. His little bundle of parts was also a lot better packaged than mine. I was a little jealous of that. I wonder how long ago they recorded the video.
GCN Tech just posted a video about this frame (and they made the same mistake as me to not consider the paint in the weight):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnXQc9p7Gxs
edit: In case you need a link: GCN Tech: I bought a cheap Frame from Aliexpress | Was it worth it? (https://youtu.be/hnXQc9p7Gxs?si=orTpUlIOb0vMCPwS) (Hope this works)
edit: Also I finished my build, first picture in artificial light in the attachments. I hope the weather will be fine on Tuesday for the first real ride.
p.s.: Today will be the day I finish building everything (with a spacer on the top, which will get removed once I am sure about the height of the headset and a temporary handlebar tape). Good pictures will follow Thursday, possibly some also today.
The GCN video is certainly recent... as is the frame's packaging... mine wasn't as careful, and the box arrived dented; fortunately, the frame inside was fine.
I agree with your opinion of the video: it's very sketchy and doesn't provide any useful information for potential buyers (it could have provided an opinion on the quality of the frame's internal workmanship or the tolerances of the headset, bottom bracket, etc.). But I expect other videos to follow, perhaps providing this information, as well as a review of the frame after a road test.
At one point in the video, he shows the accessories that came with the frame, and referring to the internal battery housing part, he says he doesn't know what it is....well, if I know, and I don't have an internal battery, I imagine if he knows too.
Yeah, they have the resources and the connections to really test the bike if they want to. Something tells me that they won't, but I'd love to be proven wrong.
They could have properly built the bike up with with whatever Shimano Di2 groupset and compared it to an actual SL8. Of course they don't want to do that, because they want to keep up the fear mongering and uncertainty. This is why I was a bit disappointed by China Cycling's comment in the video. Despite acting as some sort of self-appointed "ambassador" for Chinese cycling components, he's feeding into the same sort of fear mongering tactics so people end up buying from his store front instead.
China Cycling YT comment:
"I always say go for something with a brand / logo on it. Even if it's not a cool name. Why? Then the 'brand' / company has some skin in the game. They don't want pictures of their cracked / broken frame with their logo on it plastered on the internet. If it's totally unbranded, they have less to lose. Of course; there's not one rule to totally guarantee quality. Good video Alex! Love a good project bike!"
Don’t expect much positive at the end, they are bankrolled by western brand, they can’t conclude “why would you pay canyon money when you can have that for a fraction of the cost”
Unfortunately I think you are right! While I enjoy watching GCN episodes while training indoors, it is pretty obvious that their content should be considered as entertainment only, because any conclusions that they ever make are in line with their sponsors.
I was really excited when I saw that video but it was pretty obvious where it was heading.
GCN Tech just posted a video about this frame (and they made the same mistake as me to not consider the paint in the weight):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnXQc9p7Gxs
edit: In case you need a link: GCN Tech: I bought a cheap Frame from Aliexpress | Was it worth it? (https://youtu.be/hnXQc9p7Gxs?si=orTpUlIOb0vMCPwS) (Hope this works)
edit: Also I finished my build, first picture in artificial light in the attachments. I hope the weather will be fine on Tuesday for the first real ride.
p.s.: Today will be the day I finish building everything (with a spacer on the top, which will get removed once I am sure about the height of the headset and a temporary handlebar tape). Good pictures will follow Thursday, possibly some also today.
If your rotor line up with brake caliper you didn’t do anything wrong.
Everything fits, no rubbing. I'm just wondering if such a small gap is normal? I've never really thought about it.
Anyone with a height around 178cm and inseam of 82 suggest what size bike?Would this be your first racing bike?
Specialized's chart puts me at about a size 56?
And maybe an idea on stem length as a starting point to work from.
Can anyone who bought the Spcycle handlebar with the frame tell me the width of the headset cap?
And how high is ring C?
Is the handlebar their Spcycle HB-05?
What saddle is it?
Oh wow, looks very close to mine but in blue, what was the total cost? shoulde around 1200??
Could someone who has already assembled a complete bike with an R088 frame send a photo of the distance between the rear brake disc and the frame? Mine is minimal. Is this how it's supposed to be, or did I install something incorrectly?
Anyone with a height around 178cm and inseam of 82 suggest what size bike?176cm/86cm and I ordered an 56cm which fits me I think probably better than 54cm and surely better than 58cm. But it's my first real road bike (the other one I ride is a rondo ruut al2 in m). Headset I did not specify, I expected to get a 40/10 handlebar (I think it was specified at that time). Seemed to fit based on my riding experience with the Ruut AL2 which is on the smaller side. However measuring is weird. Measuring from the center of the fork tube to the outer edge is more like 12-13cm, but this is what the pictures tell me. I can make a picture on the weekend. But keep in mind I am inexperienced and everybody is different. I'd trust Bonus79s judgement more than mine.
Specialized's chart puts me at about a size 56?
And maybe an idea on stem length as a starting point to work from.
That doesn’t sound right. BBs don’t spin like jockey wheels, but should still spin freely. Perhaps disassemble, check and rebuild? I went for ceramic Ztto BB for my build, the 1st part to actually arrive! :)
How long did it take for other buyers to get news of and receive their frames?
I ordered on the November 13th, and the frame was shipped on the 24th. I selected DPD method to EU, and I will be surprised if the frame arrives in the coming week. Perhaps a week after is more realistic.
I paid 443€ including shipping which I think is a really good price.
Just the support itself, even not screwed in, moves with difficulty. I mean, it doesn’t creak or anything, but it doesn’t rotate very freely. As if there were an unknown amount of grease in there.
Hi Jonathan,
Absolutely my build!
What tyres do you run?
Ordered all the components on Nov 28. Now waiting for the stuff to arrive...
Hi, thanks for the replies.
M̀easured the cap for the non integrated handlebars, as the one is assembled. ~29.8mm diameter and the diameter where the c-ring sits is ~38.2mm measured with a analogue caliper.
Hi, thanks for the replies.
Maybe I didn't explain myself well....I would like to know the external diameter of the headset cover supplied with their HB-05 handlebar (see attached image).
Thank you
I’m close to purchasing the frame.
I’m happy enough that I’ll receive a frame that won’t fall apart, I’m just a little nervous that I’m going to have issues with certain bits when I receive it, mainly with the headset bearings and fork spacing (I’ve seen some comments about this), the brake calliper mounts ideally need facing and maybe issues with routing hydraulic cabling?
Are those the only things I need to know about? I don’t want to order a frame that I then have to scour this huge thread to find workarounds for things that shouldn’t happen. I don’t have the necessary tools for facing brake calliper mounts, so ideally it should just be good out of the box, right?
The only slight pity is the total absence of logos/branding, but performance-wise, it’s been solid.
[/list]
[li]Bearings: what headset bearings would I need? Looks like 52mm?[/li]
[li]Headset: I'm guessing it includes nothing, so I would need headset, top cap, expander plug, spacers[/li]
[li]Bottom bracket[/li]
[li]Crank set and group set, brakes etc (I'm going to go hydraulic braking and electronic group set here)[/li]
[li]Wheels[/li]
[/list]
Yeah just the frame, so I'm unsure about what to get next to actually build up the bike with. I can buy the integrated handlebar I linked in my previous post as it is compatible, but wondered what others I could go with. What size is the steerer tube?
I've seen this linked in a previous post on an earlier page, seems okay? KOCEVLO X01 Road Bike Full Carbon Fiber Stem Integrated Bicycle Handlebar For 28.6mm With Spacers Cycling Parts Accessories (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.5817G83sG83s4r&mp=1&pdp_npi=5%40dis%21GBP%21GBP%20134.98%21GBP%2064.79%21%21GBP%2064.79%21%21%21%4021039a5b17649658396711159e5638%2112000038983636529%21ct%21UK%216154904812%21%211%210). It only allows free shipping, so I guess when it hits UK customs I'm liable to pay import duty?
Another question, in guessing it’s not got the rubber bungs included for the internal cable routing, for when the cable comes out of the frame?
Lastly, as I've just put the order in on AliExpress, would they contact me next week about my preferred colour?
Yeah just the frame, so I'm unsure about what to get next to actually build up the bike with. I can buy the integrated handlebar I linked in my previous post as it is compatible, but wondered what others I could go with. What size is the steerer tube?
I've seen this linked in a previous post on an earlier page, seems okay? KOCEVLO X01 Road Bike Full Carbon Fiber Stem Integrated Bicycle Handlebar For 28.6mm With Spacers Cycling Parts
I thought it wise the buy the frame with integrated bars to ensure as much compatibility as possible. If SPC haven’t shipped, you might be able to add bars to your order. Similarly, you can pay extra for ddp shipping which sorts out UK duties. Their comms are ok so drop them a message😉
Accessories (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006994695246.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.5817G83sG83s4r&mp=1&pdp_npi=5%40dis%21GBP%21GBP%20134.98%21GBP%2064.79%21%21GBP%2064.79%21%21%21%4021039a5b17649658396711159e5638%2112000038983636529%21ct%21UK%216154904812%21%211%210). It only allows free shipping, so I guess when it hits UK customs I'm liable to pay import duty?
Another question, in guessing it’s not got the rubber bungs included for the internal cable routing, for when the cable comes out of the frame?
Lastly, as I've just put the order in on AliExpress, would they contact me next week about my preferred colour?
You might be lucky re duty / UK VAT. I decided not to risk it and added ddp shipping after comms with SPC. Have you logged into AliExpress messages? This is where to discuss shipping and frame finish if you haven’t already. I think you should add bars too. Only extra £60 or so from memory and good chance it’ll have headset spacers and other things you may need 😉
My R088 arrived yesterday and it was both beautifully wrapped and finished. I love the clear gloss over raw carbon finish, and I love knowing I saved weight with this :)
I have a slight concern that my 54cm actually has a 48cm seat tube. Measured BB centre to top. I did study the frame geometry before buying, mainly to make sure the Reach was correct, and it hadn't registered that the seat tube ends up a long way short of what would be thought traditional.
Has anyone had any issues with this? Sizing or flex etc? I measured 3 of my other road bikes and in all other respects the other dimension are coming up just as I'd expect. I thought I'd be sent the wrong size originally but I'm pretty sure I can make this work! I'll just be showing even more seat post than normal, and I normally show a lot! 200mm etc ???
Guys,
What is your size suggestion for 172 cm and 81 cm inseam? Hesitate between 49 (with 10 cm stem) and 52 (shorter stem I guess).
Can anyone share pics of ready bike in size 49?
I have ordered r088 on November 29th, it is currently on its way to me. Very excited to receive it. Have ordered a 54 size for 1777 cm length. Now I am riding a 56 frame that feels a bit big for me. they have told me that it has SPcycle loge on it.
Guys,
What is your size suggestion for 172 cm and 81 cm inseam? Hesitate between 49 (with 10 cm stem) and 52 (shorter stem I guess).
Can anyone share pics of ready bike in size 49?
Planning to build my bike with a Ltwoo ER7 groupset and Elite ENT 2.0 wheels. They were all on massive discounts at Black Friday sales.
Hi everyone, today I started assembling my build, but I’m having an issue with the bottom bracket. As shown in the photos, with a SRAM Red 22 crankset (53/39 chainrings) and a BB68/73 bottom bracket, when used without spacers, the crankset sits about 1 mm away from the chainstay. When I use a 2.5 mm spacer, the distance to the chainstay increases to 3.5 mm.It was alright for me using the wavy spacer in the drive side. Not meant to be fitted that way and the chainline was possibly not straight so I ended up swapping it for a Dub crankset + dub BB.
However, in this case, when I torque the crankset to 30 Nm, it gets so tight that it almost doesn’t rotate at all. On the other hand, without the spacer, even at 35 Nm, there is no binding and it spins smoothly.
Has anyone else experienced this issue?
By the way, I measured the SRAM Red 22 crank spindle length as 107 mm.
I received my frame today. Size 56. Metallic white. The seatpost fits quite tightly into the frame; there are even marks on it. The seatpost bolts are different sizes, which is a first for me. There are also some imperfections in the paintwork, like a matte spot near the front derailleur mount and between the bottle cage bolts. Overall, the paintwork is worse than on my old Carbonda CFR707 frame.
Do you have any experience with this ospw? https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008224739749.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4tcjhKx)
@Dovh and I have this OSPW for 105 Di2 and we are happy with it. However, Sander had some issues with the bolts coming loose afaik. But that is not an issue for me, I reckon I did around 7k with it this year and it is rock solid.
Thanks man! Can you please share the link of the product?
The new headset kit arrived yesterday, but unfortunately it doesn't fit either: the end piece where the cables are supposed to pass doesn't fit the ElitaOne/Roval Rapide handlebars (see photo)! :'(
The kit appears identical to the ones supplied with the Kocevlo integrated handlebars, which, however, feature fully integrated cable routing, unlike the Roval Rapide... the headset cap diameter is 56mm, but the compression ring is slightly too high.
So, I believe there are currently no kits compatible with both the R088 frame and the Roval Rapide handlebar.... This morning I wrote to Spcycle hoping for some suggestions, but otherwise, I think the only solution is to change the handlebars. :(
I quickly reread all 65 pages of this thread, and the most commonly used integrated handlebars on the R088 are:
- Lexon Vero/Thin Line
- Balugoe
- Spcycle HB-05
It's a shame that all these models require a two-bolt for support GPS....while I'd like to find a model with a single-bolt front mount, so I can at least use the Magcad Bolt V2 mount specifically for the Roval Rapide handlebars.
Aside from the Lexon models that have a 59mm headset cap, can you tell me the outside diameter of the other caps?
Thanks
Hello,For a cable coming out behind the BB between the chainstays, it should go below the BB for a bigger curve radius and less chance of kinking. That's how the Tarmac SL7 does it.
I have mounted the frame for my son. Everything went quite smootly and had no issues... Except the front derailleur. It is a mechanical 105 12s. It never worked so smooth as the rear one. I think the internal routing must be the issue, maybe on the bottom bracket? The hose should go under or above the BB?
Quick test ride round the block now I've got it all together. Was a bit worried the colour was a bit too subdued when I first got the frame but it really pops in the sun!
Looks good! Any problems dealing with the eR9 battery in the seat post?
Yes. I ended up removing the outer sheath from the batttery enclosure to fit it inside the seat post. Probably not the most weatherproof solution but this wont be a all-weather bike. ;D
I also had to file the hole for the FD cable slightly wider as it was too small for the connector on the cable to fit through.
Other than that no issues with the build up besides those caused by my own incompetence.
Quick test ride round the block now I've got it all together. Was a bit worried the colour was a bit too subdued when I first got the frame but it really pops in the sun!
Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm in a similar boat, I bought the Kocevelo Roval Rapide clone (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808129100479.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.75f41802bLtOng&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa).
I found something that seem promising:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810073079858.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.655b38da9xNfsb&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%21USD%2082.04%21USD%2036.46%21%21USD%2032.46%21%21%21%4021030a6217676681676606626e800d%2112000051698260562%21ct%21US%21727461738%21%211%210%21&_gl=1*1qiad8h*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_au*NDA5OTQ2OTQ5LjE3NjcyMjM4NTY.*_ga*MTc5MTk1NjU5Mi4xNzY3NjU4MzMw*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*czE3Njc2NjY2MjkkbzIkZzEkdDE3Njc2NjgxNjgkajIxJGwwJGgw&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810073079858.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.655b38da9xNfsb&mp=1&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%21USD%2082.04%21USD%2036.46%21%21USD%2032.46%21%21%21%4021030a6217676681676606626e800d%2112000051698260562%21ct%21US%21727461738%21%211%210%21&_gl=1*1qiad8h*_gcl_aw*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE3Njc2NjY2MzAuQ2p3S0NBaUEzLTNLQmhCaUVpd0EyeDdGZEluS3JPTUx4YWJTcjZYbXNJQmdjWWtlVTZxSHh2c3VpdThoZHBZeFVDVWNKNlhnOVJtaW1Sb0NWbW9RQXZEX0J3RQ..*_gcl_au*NDA5OTQ2OTQ5LjE3NjcyMjM4NTY.*_ga*MTc5MTk1NjU5Mi4xNzY3NjU4MzMw*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*czE3Njc2NjY2MjkkbzIkZzEkdDE3Njc2NjgxNjgkajIxJGwwJGgw&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
This should work as far as I can tell. Just worried it'll be junk and a waste of money. My backup plan is to try drawing something up in CAD and 3D printing it. I didn't want to resort to that because it'll probably take several iterations to get the shape to match the bars.
There's also this company called MagCAD that makes adapters between the Roval Rapide and other Spec bikes. None of them would fit this frame unfortunately.
Hi, I assembled my Spycycle frame, size 58, everything seemed perfect, but when I went out to test it, there's play in the headset. I've tried everything, even removing it completely. When I hold the handlebars at the bottom, they move from side to side. No matter how much I tighten them, nothing works. I even tried using spacers at the top. I bought a Spycycle frame and integrated handlebar, so it should work perfectly. I'm desperate. I have it assembled without the metal race on the headset crown, as I understand it's not necessary. I measured the bearings, and they were exactly the same, so it doesn't matter which one I use at the top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
When I was trying to figure out the ER9 battery holder in the seat post I explored the option of not putting on the battery sheath. I discovered there was no need to remove the outer sheath since the battery holder fits snuggly in the seat post. You just need buoyant ribbon string tied to the battery if you ever need to pull it out. Without the sheath, there's a risk of damaging the circuitry.
Also I used the mechanical FD hole to route the ER9 FD cable instead. This was easier for me as opposed to trying to get the cable behind the FD hanger. :D
I am currently building my 54 cm R088 with the ER7 groupset. I did place the battery holder in the seat post and it fits nicely (with a ribbon to pull it out agian)
I probably will have to cut some cm of the seatpost in a later stage to get the perfect fit. I did use the the hole behind the the FD hanger as the mechanical hole is too small and I did not want to drill it out. It fits nicely.
Any suggestions on how to close/lock the mechanical hole for the FD?
Hi, I assembled my Spycycle frame, size 58, everything seemed perfect, but when I went out to test it, there's play in the headset. I've tried everything, even removing it completely. When I hold the handlebars at the bottom, they move from side to side. No matter how much I tighten them, nothing works. I even tried using spacers at the top. I bought a Spycycle frame and integrated handlebar, so it should work perfectly. I'm desperate. I have it assembled without the metal race on the headset crown, as I understand it's not necessary. I measured the bearings, and they were exactly the same, so it doesn't matter which one I use at the top or bottom. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.
Quote from: Bonus79So these could be ok?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bike-parts-mountain-bike-bicycle-headset-bearing-only-repair-bearings-for-28-6-44mm-30mm-40mm-steel-41-41-8-47-49-52mm?_pos=3&_sid=ca7ecac03&_ss=r
Because I saw that there are some bearings 7mm high, while others 8mm, or the angles change: the ZTTO model of the link has both 45° angles, other models 36°/45°.
Since in the shop where I work we sell SKF bearings, I wanted to know if we have them too.
I asked David (Spcycle) directly for information: R088 uses an outer diameter of 52mm, an inner diameter of 39.8mm, a height of 7mm, and an angle of 45° bearings.
At this point I would say that I am almost ready to place the order, I am just waiting for confirmation from my biomechanic for the frame size and the size for the HB-05 handlebar.
In the end I decided to opt for the raw frame to be painted locally.
David confirmed that he can draw up an Alibaba order for me, in this way I can divide the cost into 3 installments.
Hi, I was referring to the aluminum crown of the fork head. On the R088, the lower bearing is mounted directly to the fork. I checked everything again, and the bearings I received are identical: 40x52x7 mm, 36°/45°, both the upper and lower ones. Are yours the same? I'm trying to rule things out because I don't know what else to do. Thanks in advance.Ah, ok, now I understand....I confirm that the aluminum crown on the fork head should not be used.
So now there is a question. Which one is correct, does it matter? And do each customer receive same set?The angle of the bearings is important because if the measurements are different the coupling with the frame and fork would not be perfect and the bearings would work badly....however I imagine that the measurement is the same for all R088 frames.
Ah, ok, now I understand....I confirm that the aluminum crown on the fork head should not be used.If what you wrote is correct but an external degree measurement is missing, I understand that they are 36º/45 bearings and not 45º/45º
I haven't checked whether the measurement/angle is printed on the bearings (I don't think so), but Spcycle told me the following bearing sizes: 52x39.8x7 45°
Well, I'm having trouble with the frame. I've half sorted out the steering issue, but now I've noticed the rear wheel is much closer to the left chainstay than the right (the one on the drive side). It doesn't seem right to me. Does yours stay centered at the same distance? I checked with other wheels and it's the same, so it's not the wheels.
Well, I'm having trouble with the frame. I've half sorted out the steering issue, but now I've noticed the rear wheel is much closer to the left chainstay than the right (the one on the drive side). It doesn't seem right to me. Does yours stay centered at the same distance? I checked with other wheels and it's the same, so it's not the wheels.
If what you wrote is correct but an external degree measurement is missing, I understand that they are 36º/45 bearings and not 45º/45ºIn fact the information is not very clear...unfortunately I have not yet had time to check whether the size is indicated on my bearings but, having only specified 45°, I would think that they are 45°/45°.
Well, I'm having trouble with the frame. I've half sorted out the steering issue, but now I've noticed the rear wheel is much closer to the left chainstay than the right (the one on the drive side). It doesn't seem right to me. Does yours stay centered at the same distance? I checked with other wheels and it's the same, so it's not the wheels.I still have to finish assembling the bicycle and I didn't notice....today if I have a moment I'll try to check and let you know.
The next GCN Tech video on this frame is up:
https://youtu.be/lRoySD9eg9o
Issues:
- Excess resin where seat tube was bonded together blocked seat post insertion
- Brake mounts
- Flex in handlebars/forks
When I saw this vid, I came see to see how owners would defend it.
For those who say it’s staged. Are you ignoring the fact that you can see the wheelbase growing when he pushes down?
The steerer is bending, allowing the front wheel to move away from the down tube. That’s nothing to do with the stem, bar or headset.
GCN are a bit shit sometimes, but I don’t think they intentionally mislead when it comes to these things.
QC can be beyond patchy with some manufacturers, so they could have a void or crappy lay-up.
There are clearly many satisfied customers here, but that doesn’t mean he didn’t get a duff one.
Actually if you dont compress the headset it’s exactly what would happen, the wheelbase would vary. I am not saying there is no flex in the frame (every frame has flex), but it’s easy to create a dramatic effect if one wants to.
Not sure what bar they are using and that could also have impact
As I said, I don’t think it’s staged.I am not an owner, but from the start i am suspicious of the review of a direct to consumer Chinese frame on a chanel bankrolled by bike corporations… Call me cynical ;)
I don’t think they’d intentionally not assemble or tighten a headset for artificial drama.
Obviously owners will defend their bikes and blame GCN, we don’t know the cause, so anything is just blind guesswork.
When I saw this vid, I came see to see how owners would defend it.
For those who say it’s staged. Are you ignoring the fact that you can see the wheelbase growing when he pushes down?
The steerer is bending, allowing the front wheel to move away from the down tube. That’s nothing to do with the stem, bar or headset.
GCN are a bit shit sometimes, but I don’t think they intentionally mislead when it comes to these things.
QC can be beyond patchy with some manufacturers, so they could have a void or crappy lay-up.
There are clearly many satisfied customers here, but that doesn’t mean he didn’t get a duff one.
Can any owner of the SP-R088 make a video that reproduces what GCN does to show the flex of the handlebar/fork ? It will prove if it is stages or not.
Hi, unfortunately for you I really believe that the spacers of the Kocevlo handlebar you purchased are not compatible with the frame.....they have an elongated shape for the SL8 frame and do not go well with the R088 frame (a few pages back you should find some photos of my first Elita One handlebar and related spacers kit which are identical to those of the handlebar you purchased).
I have been stuck with the assembly of the frame for some time, waiting for a new ULLICYC handlebar to arrive....the spacers kit that arrives with the handlebar is identical to the one in the photo you posted and that you would like to build yourself (see attached photo), theoretically it should be fine, but I noticed that the piece through which the hydraulic cables pass has a different finish compared to the other pieces/spacers.....I therefore believe that it is not part of the original kit supplied with the handlebar, but that it was produced and added later.
As soon as I find the time I will try to finish the assembly and then I will let you know....if this kit doesn't work well, I think I will opt for a new handlebar with completely internal passage of the hydraulic cables and a front hole for fixing the cycle computer (always to use the MagCAD support for Bolt V2 that I purchased).
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006286213042.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.673c3696J5NiSK&tblci=GiCC4m7NjPqiKcqZte9zc6nQwymmLm1_jCpQPCF6yretFSCnqXUogey87_rbk6idATC062M&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
Here's a quick video. The only thing flexing is my tubeless front tire. :)Any difference putting your full weight at the shifters? I think that's how Alex from GNC does, right?
jonathanf2, DavidG there is a little bit of flex, nothing but normal in my opinion. My 54 looks same. But gcn have much bigger frame size.His flex is mental and doesn't even seem to be putting much weight on it!
Any difference putting your full weight at the shifters? I think that's how Alex from GNC does, right?
I don't see my flex coming from the stem/handlebar myself in mine.
But gcn have much bigger frame size.
Here's a quick video. The only thing flexing is my tubeless front tire. :)
Good afternoon. Today I decided to tinker with the frame a bit. I wanted to see if there would be any fork play, like some people here are experiencing. I assembled the frame with the fork and bearings, compression ring, and top cap. And indeed, there is some play back and forth. Measurements showed that the bearing seats are not perfectly aligned. In my opinion, the fork play is not due to the compression C-ring (although I consider this type of ring to be incorrect), but due to imprecise bearing seats.
Well, I'm having trouble with the frame. I've half sorted out the steering issue, but now I've noticed the rear wheel is much closer to the left chainstay than the right (the one on the drive side). It doesn't seem right to me. Does yours stay centered at the same distance? I checked with other wheels and it's the same, so it's not the wheels.Hi, I checked on my frame with Tagoola Dao 50mm wheels and GP5000S TR 28mm tires....they seem to be centered to the seat stays and the seat tube of the frame.
Hey Bonus, I wanted to follow up on this. Your posts were very helpful for me figuring this out. I got the spacer kit attached, and it fits perfectly with the Kocevelo Roval Rapide clone. Couldn't be happier honestly. See attached photos.
Nearly done with the build now, just need to wrap the bars after I take it for a spin.
Bought everything on Aliexpress:
Full Ultegra Di2 groupset
EliteWheels Edge
Kocevelo integrated handlebar
Ryet 3D saddle
Frame is color #1 glossy.
The only issue I had during the build was the battery in the seat tube fitment that everyone has talked about. I also made the mistake of pulling all the slack in the di2 wires up the seat tube and then trying to jam it all back in like I was loading a musket. That didn't work so I had to pull some of the wire slack and stuff it into the downtube.
I also did have to sand down the brake caliper mounting points a bit.
All in all, it was pretty easy considering it's my first time building a bike. It comes in right at 7kg without pedals and bottle cages.
Hi, I see the assembly is going well! I'm happy for you!
Thanks for the feedback on the spacer kit.
The kit you purchased looks the same as the one I bought a while back, but mine is more gray in color than matte black, and the finish appears smooth and not "rough" like your kit (see photo).
Since I didn't really like the color combination with the handlebar, I tried ordering a new Ullicyc handlebar with a spacer kit identical to yours and the one I'd already purchased.
However, the "converter" piece through which the cables pass has a "rough" finish, similar to that of your kit (or the MagCad mount I got for my bike computer), while the spacers have a smooth finish... so aesthetically, it's not the best either.
I found the kit you purchased on Aliexpress (see last photo)... if you could confirm that all the parts in your kit have the same finish and that the color is matte black (from your photos, it looks like it, with a very similar shade to the handlebar), I could order it too and return the rest.
I'll take this opportunity to ask you a question: did you use the C-ring or the crown to install the headset?
Thank you so much!
That orange is looking good! Are you in SoCal? Those photos have the SoCal sunshine vibe! ;D
I can confirm all the parts of that kit have the same finish you see in my photos. I attached all the close-up photos below. Keep in mind, I hadn't actually preloaded the compression plug in these close-up photos; I was just holding it together with hand pressure. I can get other photos/measurements if you have specific needs.
In the kit, you get a metal c-ring and a crown that is plastic. I used the metal c-ring because it seemed smarter to use a metal part for preloading against the bearing. The crown also seemed taller than the c-ring, so you'd likely end up with more of a gap between your frame and headset spacers. However, I never actually installed it to check so I can't be certain.
I can say that everything seems okay using the c-ring. I did a 20 mile ride with it yesterday and didn't detect any weird behavior from the headset.
Hi In this video, even though I tightened my rear wheel thru axle to 13 Nm, I can still move it with my finger. Is my thru axle too short?”
Thanks for the feedback....I'll try to order, hoping it arrives identical to yours.
The kit that came with the Ullicyc handlebar seems identical in shape, but as I said, the "converter" has a rough finish, while the spacers are smooth....it looks like the "converter" was made and added later, but using a different material and finish (see photo).
With which NM did you tighten the wedge of the seatpost?
How did you cope with putting the LTWOO battery under the seatpost? It's very tight with me, I have the impression and I'm afraid I won't pull it out when I put it down there :| did you use lubricant or something?
I've been tweaking my R088 a bit. I swapped out the stock LTwoo calipers for ZTTO (IIIPro) disc calipers mainly for the weight cut. I installed a Cyclami 18t offset lower pulley wheel on my eR9 cage. It allows expanded cassette range without modding the stock cage. I'm currently on a 50-34t/10-33t setup, but I'm entertaining the thought of going 10-36t with the new pulley wheel. Lastly, I swapped my inner small chainring for a 34t oval. I've had such good results with 1x oval on gravel, I wanted to try it on the road bike. I have titanium axles coming as well to cut additional weight. Overall, I still consider this more of a budget build with off-the-shelf AliEx parts. ;)
How much do the titanium axles weigh? Could you please share a link?
I just purchased these ti thru axles. They're not the absolute lightest, but they're not that expensive either.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805829382971.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805829382971.html)
I think these are titanium *colored* axles made from aluminium. I think they weigh approximately the same as the ones supplied with the frame.
179cm and 54 is too small? I have 179cm too and 54 size is okay.
My replacement 56cm frame has arrived ;D. So I have my (too small for me unfortunately, 179cm) 54cm (seatpost 48cm), gloss gel coat over raw carbon, 780g frame available for sale, brand new! The frame pic shows what parts you'll get; frame, forks, seatpost, headset bearings & accessories (replacement 56cm shown), the part built bike pic is the 54cm ;)I would be curious to see the headset arrived with the new 56 frame....could you take some photos?
Available in the UK for shipment to UK and Europe. Much quicker than buying direct! I got a great Black Friday deal on this frame and do not wish to mark it up, so can sell including courier for £490 (UK, Europe freight TBC)
Yup, I have long legs, the 54 only gives me ~8cm seat post insertion, I was not comfortable with that, so I thought the frame could be better used by a slightly shorter rider. I hope that's OK with you? ;)
My replacement 56cm frame has arrived ;D. So I have my (too small for me unfortunately, 179cm) 54cm (seatpost 48cm), gloss gel coat over raw carbon, 780g frame available for sale, brand new! The frame pic shows what parts you'll get; frame, forks, seatpost, headset bearings & accessories (replacement 56cm shown), the part built bike pic is the 54cm ;)
Available in the UK for shipment to UK and Europe. Much quicker than buying direct! I got a great Black Friday deal on this frame and do not wish to mark it up, so can sell including courier for £490 (UK, Europe freight TBC)
What is stand over height ? I am 174cm and wondering if 54 top big.short legs.
I would be curious to see the headset arrived with the new 56 frame....could you take some photos?
Thank you!
There you go 😉
The upper bearing that comes with the frame is too low. At least that was the case for me. At my local service shop they had to replace it with a different bearing and also use a higher C-ring, because the fork was rubbing against the frame in the area under the headset spacers. That’s how it was in my case.
Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time posting. I’ve been between this R088 frame and a Tantan x68 for awhile now for my first Chinese carbon build. I was about to pull the trigger on the R088 from ali express because there’s a good sale going on right now that brings the cost to right around $600 shipped (about $200 less than the x68). Unit I saw the latest video from GCNTech with the dude who built up the R088 and shows a crazy amount of front end flex. He’s using a toseek integrated handlebar and to me it looks like a lot of the flex is just in the handlebar, but it’s hard to tell. I’m hoping if anyone who’s built up a R088 this past year could provide some feedback if they’ve had any issues like that. I don’t expect the stiffest frame out there, but also don’t want a noodle… Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time posting. I’ve been between this R088 frame and a Tantan x68 for awhile now for my first Chinese carbon build. I was about to pull the trigger on the R088 from ali express because there’s a good sale going on right now that brings the cost to right around $600 shipped (about $200 less than the x68). Unit I saw the latest video from GCNTech with the dude who built up the R088 and shows a crazy amount of front end flex. He’s using a toseek integrated handlebar and to me it looks like a lot of the flex is just in the handlebar, but it’s hard to tell. I’m hoping if anyone who’s built up aA few pages back some people were concerned about exactly the same thing. While I can't say for sure how noodly the frame is while riding outside, I am pretty confident that the flex shown in the video looked exaggerated, probably, as you mentioned, due to a lot of flex in the handlebars. I have done a similar test on my SP-R088 with HBR17 handlebars, and it doesn't look worrying to me at all (and definitely not as pronounced). Another person made a video a while back which also showed minimal flex.
There was also some top tube flex reported at the beginning of the thread; I am experiencing none of it. When I squeeze the seat stays, however, they appear more flexible with SP-R088 than on my other carbon bike (Velobuild VB-R-177).
I will report once I ride the bike outside, but inside, on the trainer, the frame itself has appeared solid.
Just check my frame and there’s nothing like the flex he was getting. GCN is sponsored by the ‘mainstream brands’ that builds like this undercut (Orbea & Pinerello etc). It appears the whole project is a scaremongering effort! What do others think that have completed builds and are riding their R088s?
I totally see what you mean. That would also annoy me aesthetically. Hopefully the new spacers work for you!
It appears the whole project is a scaremongering effort! What do others think that have completed builds and are riding their R088s?
That' pretty much what's going on. This is why I stopped watching YT bike content on Chinese components. It's either scaremongering or product shilling. Anyways, one year in with my R088. Still riding just fine. No issues to speak of. I really like the 0° offset seat post option. It's really made the bike even more enjoyable for me to ride, especially for climbing with a more forward seat position.
I have finished my 54 cm build (177cm height)) and it fits like a glove. I have had none of the issues mentioned in this thread. Build went smooth and easy. I have chosen for a separate stem and handlebar from Kocevlo as I was not sure an integrated cockpit would suit me. Added Elite wheels ENT 2.0 en an ER7 electronic groupset. I have done a few hundred km now as I am in the winter season, but very very pleased with the bike.. None of the flex GCN showed.. Spent less than € 1.500 on the whole build...
Although interesting to watch YT content on Chinese bike stuff, you should take it with a pinch of salt
Hi, I'm considering a build based on this frame, how did you manage your complete build with just 1500 euros? I wanna make it supercheap yet reliable, so I'm keen to go for a 105 mechanic sourced on aliexpress for about 300 euros. Weels elite ent or, may be better, Aeroraptor whch are really goodlooking either.I have spent quite some time on AliE searching and waiting for good offers. I bought all my gear on the Black Friday sale. R088 frame, ER7 groupset, elite ENT 2.0 Wheels, Kocevlo stem and handlebar, Riro crank set and the other small stuff. AliE regularly has good offers but you should take your time and wait for the moment.
Any advise on sourcing and cost cutting is well accepted
I have spent quite some time on AliE searching and waiting for good offers. I bought all my gear on the Black Friday sale. R088 frame, ER7 groupset, elite ENT 2.0 Wheels, Kocevlo stem and handlebar, Riro crank set and the other small stuff. AliE regularly has good offers but you should take your time and wait for the moment.
I have spent quite some time on AliE searching and waiting for good offers. I bought all my gear on the Black Friday sale. R088 frame, ER7 groupset, elite ENT 2.0 Wheels, Kocevlo stem and handlebar, Riro crank set and the other small stuff. AliE regularly has good offers but you should take your time and wait for the moment.
May I ask which Kocevlo stem and handlebar model you purchased?
Thanks
Hi everyone — and also hi to the Spcycle team if you're reading along
Thanks for all the insights I was able to read here before ordering the Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 frame.
Shipping was quite fast:
Ordered: Jan 12, 2026 → Delivered: Feb 3, 2026
However, I’ve run into two issues and would really appreciate the community’s thoughts and experiences.
1. Damage to the frame during transport
Unfortunately — and I’ve read this happened to someone else before — the UDH appears to have contacted the frame during shipping. As a result, a small piece of carbon and paint has chipped off.
I’ve discussed this with the seller, who indicated it looks like cosmetic (paint) damage rather than structural carbon damage. A partial refund was mentioned as a possible solution, but I’m first trying to understand how serious (or common) this type of damage is on delivery.
2. Asymmetry in the rear triangle
At the risk of sounding naive: does anyone else have a rear triangle like this?
The right seatstay has a noticeable curve, while the left side looks straight (see photo). I installed the wheel this morning and, fortunately, it sits straight in the frame.
The seller explained that many frames use an asymmetric rear triangle design, which I understand in theory, but visually it still surprised me — so I’m curious if other SP-R088 owners see the same shape.
Just hoping to learn from other owners whether this all falls within normal expectations for this frame.
Does this match your experience?
Thanks in advance!
Freddy
Hi everyone — and also hi to the Spcycle team if you're reading alongI checked my frame: I don't see any differences by sight, but if I place a spirit level on the seat stays like you did, I also notice a very slight curvature/light on the right side/drive.
Thanks for all the insights I was able to read here before ordering the Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 frame.
Shipping was quite fast:
Ordered: Jan 12, 2026 → Delivered: Feb 3, 2026
However, I’ve run into two issues and would really appreciate the community’s thoughts and experiences.
1. Damage to the frame during transport
Unfortunately — and I’ve read this happened to someone else before — the UDH appears to have contacted the frame during shipping. As a result, a small piece of carbon and paint has chipped off.
I’ve discussed this with the seller, who indicated it looks like cosmetic (paint) damage rather than structural carbon damage. A partial refund was mentioned as a possible solution, but I’m first trying to understand how serious (or common) this type of damage is on delivery.
2. Asymmetry in the rear triangle
At the risk of sounding naive: does anyone else have a rear triangle like this?
The right seatstay has a noticeable curve, while the left side looks straight (see photo). I installed the wheel this morning and, fortunately, it sits straight in the frame.
The seller explained that many frames use an asymmetric rear triangle design, which I understand in theory, but visually it still surprised me — so I’m curious if other SP-R088 owners see the same shape.
Just hoping to learn from other owners whether this all falls within normal expectations for this frame.
Does this match your experience?
Thanks in advance!
Freddy
I still want to see a closer look at his headset setup and which C ring he is using. If that's not the problem, then it does look like there might be something wrong with the bike itself. If so, it will be interesting to see what will happen if he tries to get in contact with Spcycle or AliExpress.
It's a relatively long video and he still hasn't done much to actually diagnose the problem. Surely he could have taken the fork out to inspect it, he could have measured the head tube with some calipers to see if it is out of spec, he could have examined his headset bearings, etc.
After some armchair watching I would also agree that it's potentially a c-ring problem. Or at least that's what I would check next. On my velobuild 099 the first version c-rings were slightly too short, and this allowed the c-ring to ride up the steerer tube slightly and no longer fully locate the steerer in the bearing. This allowed the fork steerer to move way more than it should and flex about. I think I saw the headset cover gap changing when he was sprinting on the bike. https://imgur.com/a/ra9TKWU
(https://i.imgur.com/5TEkPBK.gif)
My eventual solution was a big (and then slightly smaller with the v2 c-ring) stack of microspacers on top of the c-ring. I used mechanical 105 so there was a big inflexible bunch of hoses/housing pushing around the c-ring. I also bought and tried a longer expander plug and it did nothing without the spacers. However, no empirical evidence, but the longer expander plug has way more surface area and must provide way more grip, which would be less chance of slipping, and better at sandwhiching everything all together.
GCN did a follow-up video to their R088 framset build. What do you guys think? Even with a new expander plug and alloy stem/handle bar, it's still flexing quite a bit. Anyone with the same size frame in the video with similar stem length having these type of flex issues?
https://youtu.be/3OIbW7lHM5M?si=uwxFNjYpjy4XZ_3m (https://youtu.be/3OIbW7lHM5M?si=uwxFNjYpjy4XZ_3m)
This guy, when unpacking the frame, didn’t realize he was holding the DI2 battery mount that comes with it. So if he assembled the bike himself, I’m not surprised it turned out like that. Plus that hideous paint job — it looks like someone just smeared snot all over the bike.
And on top of that, how did he mount that plug onto the fork? Did he hammer it in? WTF.
I checked my own frame and, just like in Jonathan’s video from a few pages back, the only thing that flexes is the tire.
Hi everyone, I'm going to order this frame in March to complete a build during spring. i want to ask for a frame size recommendation, I'm 181 tall, 83 inseam and I'm planning to order a 56 frame with a 90/100mm stem. Can any of you confirm I'm doing a good choice. I'm just scared the bike could feel too long, but when I check measurements everything sounds pretty ok. I'm considering a bike fit, but no very good fitters in my area, so your advice could really be helpful.
I am 185cm with 86cm inseam, and I went with size 56 as well. I am using 100mm LightCarbon HBR17 handlebar and the WheelTop electronic groupset, which is known to have relatively short shifter hoods. I was coming from a larger (longer) frame, and this feels refreshingly short. My setback is slightly larger on R088, which was desired as I wanted to put less strain on my hands. I was debating sizing up to size 58, but I am happy I haven't.
I would guess size 56 is the right one, although if you have any special preferences regarding you fit, you might want to take that into consideration. For a baseline fit you can also put your measurements into the Specialized's online fitting tool for SL8 -- it has the same dimensions as R088. Then, depending on how forward/backward you would like to sit, you can choose the right stem length.
I am 185cm with 86cm inseam, and I went with size 56 as well. I am using 100mm LightCarbon HBR17 handlebar and the WheelTop electronic groupset, which is known to have relatively short shifter hoods. I was coming from a larger (longer) frame, and this feels refreshingly short. My setback is slightly larger on R088, which was desired as I wanted to put less strain on my hands. I was debating sizing up to size 58, but I am happy I haven't.I'd like to ask you a question: what's the outside diameter of the headset top cover (see attached image)?
I would guess size 56 is the right one, although if you have any special preferences regarding you fit, you might want to take that into consideration. For a baseline fit you can also put your measurements into the Specialized's online fitting tool for SL8 -- it has the same dimensions as R088. Then, depending on how forward/backward you would like to sit, you can choose the right stem length.
I think GCN lost credibility with this bike build. Besides the LTwoo/Di2 battery fitment, the frame is fairly easy to build especially with electronic groupsets. I bet if they bought a western brand frame, they’d probably mess it up just the same. Also that splatter paint job looks like crap. It’s like they purposely made it crappy. ::)Maybe, in their own way, they thought they were creating art or something like that... ;D
I'd like to ask you a question: what's the outside diameter of the headset top cover (see attached image)?
It looks very similar to other models with an outside diameter of 56mm...can you confirm?
Thanks
Yes, it is 56mm.
Since I am at it, let me explain two other caveats regarding fitting the handlebars onto the frame:
- I used the C-ring that came with the handlebars, and it is about 1mm higher than the one that came with the frame. I had to sand it down to reduce the gap between the frame and the headset top cover.
- The top of the headtube on the R088 is slightly larger than the headset cover. It probably measures 57-58mm. This by itself is not a problem, but the Spcycle's paintjob stops just short of the cover's edge (see the attached image). It is not particularly beautiful, although the image with flash exaggerates the issue -- in reality I only noticed it when I was assembling the headset. If I knew this in advance I would have asked Spcycle to paint the frame right to the headset bearing hole.
Other than that I am really happy with how these feel. The fact that I am kind of between sizes and don't have to use more spacers than I already do is also a benefit.
I am 185cm with 86cm inseam, and I went with size 56 as well. I am using 100mm LightCarbon HBR17 handlebar and the WheelTop electronic groupset, which is known to have relatively short shifter hoods. I was coming from a larger (longer) frame, and this feels refreshingly short. My setback is slightly larger on R088, which was desired as I wanted to put less strain on my hands. I was debating sizing up to size 58, but I am happy I haven't.
I would guess size 56 is the right one, although if you have any special preferences regarding you fit, you might want to take that into consideration. For a baseline fit you can also put your measurements into the Specialized's online fitting tool for SL8 -- it has the same dimensions as R088. Then, depending on how forward/backward you would like to sit, you can choose the right stem length.
I have to say I like the handlebar shape (very particular) and the geometry...how do you like it?
Could you post a "wider" photo of your frame to see the effect of the handlebars?
Just to play a little I tried to make a fit on Fizmoo imputing my measurments and R088 56 size ones. Any comment in welcome
http://fizmoo.com/share/o3GscPq6XbgAgERIRlKP9YCpt213-default (http://fizmoo.com/share/o3GscPq6XbgAgERIRlKP9YCpt213-default)
Update - Frame arrived after ordering in December 13. Took long because of paint job and payment etc. Here is the initial frame (Seller - Syrak) Stay posted for a full length build video!!
My frame did not come with the rubber grommet that sits over the seat post clamp, as well as the di2 battery mount. The chain stay seems to be relatively straight in comparison to other posts, but has a slight deviation as pictured below.
Also the 52cm frame weighs in at a hefty frickin 1044gs or something, which is unfortunate :/ But at least I got the paint job!! (I reckon for the best weight just order matte on spcycle)
Update - Frame arrived after ordering in December 13. Took long because of paint job and payment etc. Here is the initial frame (Seller - Syrak) Stay posted for a full length build video!!How did you oreder this type of paint? I can't see options like yours on the page o Ali.
My frame did not come with the rubber grommet that sits over the seat post clamp, as well as the di2 battery mount. The chain stay seems to be relatively straight in comparison to other posts, but has a slight deviation as pictured below.
Also the 52cm frame weighs in at a hefty frickin 1044gs or something, which is unfortunate :/ But at least I got the paint job!! (I reckon for the best weight just order matte on spcycle)
I am attaching a few images of the complete bike. The handlebars seem really well-made, they are lightweight, and much stiffer compared to the handlebars I got with the Velobuild VB-R-177 (previous bike). Ergonomically, I went with 38cm width, which is narrower than what I had before and I like it so far, but there is no difference in feel compared to normal flat handlebars with an extra headset spacer. Aesthetically, I find them interesting as well and fast-looking, but I wouldn't buy them just for the looks... The minimalism of the regular non-raised design still has a place in my heart.
It looks like a relatively relaxed fit, but at the same time I am not an expert so I don't have much to say. I got to my current fit with similar tools that you used, but also through trial and error on the trainer and experience from my previous frame. My very general recommendation would be to i) copy and tweak the existing fit from your current road bike, if you have any, and ii) whenever you are unsure, try going with a conservative and average setup first (which I think you are already doing).
The holo paintjob on the seatpost and handebar is a genius idea ;D
How did you oreder this type of paint? I can't see options like yours on the page o Ali.
Does anyone know if the seatpost on this model is similar to the one on the Specialized SL7 or the SL8?
Does anyone know if the seatpost on this model is similar to the one on the Specialized SL7 or the SL8?
The handlebars seem really well-made, they are lightweight, and much stiffer compared to the handlebars I got with the Velobuild VB-R-177 (previous bike). Ergonomically, I went with 38cm width, which is narrower than what I had before and I like it so far, but there is no difference in feel compared to normal flat handlebars with an extra headset spacer. Aesthetically, I find them interesting as well and fast-looking, but I wouldn't buy them just for the looks... The minimalism of the regular non-raised design still has a place in my heart.
I think my bike is ready to start the season 8)
Weight: 7,6kg I think it can be lighter because the handlebar and stem are aluminium.
The color looks slick! Which wheelset did you get? Also this frame has a lot of potential to drop weight. Sub 7kg is easy to achieve with off-the-shelf components.
Was it 1044g frameset only with alloy hardware? That's more than 250g more than my glossy 52cm raw carbon frame! Your paint job looks way cool though! ;)
Hi there, where did you get your handlebars ? I can't find it :/ Thank you !
Yeah, a tragic day for me lmao. I checked the store and turn out it was rated at 825g for a 44cm frame or something. Not sure how this identical product varied so much! Avoid this seller for now...
Yeah, a tragic day for me lmao. I checked the store and turn out it was rated at 825g for a 44cm frame or something. Not sure how this identical product varied so much! Avoid this seller for now...
This is the vendor you bought from correct?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810347349950.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810347349950.html)
I'm wondering if they applied additional sheeting to achieve that CF weave pattern under the gloss coating? There's some mention of a sheet winding method in the description. That could account for additional weight over the base unpainted frameset.
How much of the hardware did you leave on? Your picture shows the FD hanger and some bottle cage bolts, which they would not have included in the claimed weight. But either way, even if you left on the seatpost clamp, UDH, and everything, that paint job does seem to have added quite a bit of extra weight.
Took everything off (including front derailleur hanger) weight came to 940gsHi,
These are exactly the CSC wheels I'm considering. The look really nice for the price. Are you sure the can be cheaper through their website. On Ali there is always the VAT cut when you purchase the order which I haven't ever seen though producers website.
About the size, how is the clearance on the r088 frame? I'm not yet sure if ordering a 28 or 30 outer width.
Looks great 👍Thanks!
Hi folksI don't have direct comparison but sl8 fork looks more refined and thinner too.
What's anyone's thoughts on the aero of this compared to an SL8?
Is it just missing a speed sniffer?
Thanks in advance!
I will probably need a 0 offset seatpost for my R088.
Can anyone who uses the 0 offset Spcycle seatpost tell me how it goes?
On another bicycle I had a seat post with a similar tightening/clamp system and every time it was a nightmare to adjust the saddle because the lower "shell" got stuck and to be able to move it I had to hit it with a hammer.
The 0 offset seat post on the R088 really makes it ride near perfect for me. Unfortunately you might need to whack it with a rubber mallet if you decide to adjust it later on. I had to do that recently to loosen it up even after fully unscrewing the bolt. Just make sure to apply ample carbon paste inside the clamping area.
Hi, I've just ridden the R088 for 70km in two rides, and I have a question for you.
This is my first time using disc brakes on a racing bike....do you think it's normal if the front wheel "jumps" slightly when I brake "hard"?
Since the mechanic replaced the 70mm Deda expander I had installed (there are currently 29mm of spacers/top spacer) with the shorter one that came standard with the frame (don't ask me why), and he used a C-ring for the headset instead of the crown ring that came with the handlebars, could this also be the cause of the "jumping"?
While riding, even on rough roads, I don't seem to notice any play in the headset.
Unfortunately you confirm my fears....at this point I think I will evaluate other models.
I'm someone who likes to experiment with saddles/positions and I sometimes have to make adjustments during rides....so a clamp that gets stuck isn't ideal for me. :'(
I had the same issue with the Canyon seatpost clamp and solved it after applying assembly paste (Dynamic Assembly Paste Pro). It's not carbon paste, but has a consistency of thick cream.This?
Unfortunately you confirm my fears....at this point I think I will evaluate other models.
I'm someone who likes to experiment with saddles/positions and I sometimes have to make adjustments during rides....so a clamp that gets stuck isn't ideal for me. :'(
Hi, I've just ridden the R088 for 70km in two rides, and I have a question for you.
This is my first time using disc brakes on a racing bike....do you think it's normal if the front wheel "jumps" slightly when I brake "hard"?
I think if you're doing micro adjustments between rides, the saddle can still be nudged without much force. In my case I hadn't adjusted the saddle in a few months and decided to change the positioning. The clamps had already settled in-place and just needed a slight whack to loosen it. Not a dealbreaker in my opinion since the clamp and seat post stay in-place once firmly tightened.
If you stand the bike on the rear wheel while holding the front brake lever and bounce the bike, you can check if there's play in the fork steerer. If there isn't any wobble in the headset, it should be properly compressed. The slight movement in the front is typically just the brake pads. While both wheels are on the ground, if you hold both brake levers down while trying to move the bike, you shouldn't feel any movement at all.
Small update
I just took my R088 to the 80km we ride Flanders and it did quite well, i am riding 32c GP5000 and i thinkk you may be able to fit 34c
Small update
I just took my R088 to the 80km we ride Flanders and it did quite well, i am riding 32c GP5000 and i thinkk you may be able to fit 34c
Looks great. What saddle is that on your bike, if you don’t mind me asking?
How are you getting on with the Tagoola wheels?
Very happy with them, my previous wheels were the cheapest ryet carbon in 2023 and this are a bout the same price but a lot nicer. The minor deatail is that they are not the wider newer trend
Hi guysBumping as Im also curious on this, and about real world tire fitment in general. Im guessing this can't handle 35s
Was planning to fit some 34mm external width wheels in, does anyone know if they'll fit?
TIA :)
Bumping as Im also curious on this, and about real world tire fitment in general. Im guessing this can't handle 35s
Is there anyone here with a size 58? How many spacers would you guys think is still safe?
My size 58 feels like it has the same problem that GCN had with the frame. There seems to be more movement in the head tube/handlebar than on my other bikes. Since I am still in the process of building things up I am running 6,5 cm of spacers right now; so that could also be the problem.
Hello, I have a strange problem. While riding, when I’m pedaling and sitting on the saddle, there’s a rhythmic knocking sound coming from somewhere—I’m not exactly sure where yet. When I stop pedaling but remain seated, it’s quiet. When I stand up off the saddle and pedal, it’s also quiet. The “knocking” only happens when I’m sitting and pedaling. Has anyone had a similar issue? What could be causing this sound?
But why when I stood up and pedalling is silent?
It could also be the seat clamp. Grease it according to these instructions if you haven't already...
The green stuff is grease and the black stuff is carbon paste.
Could it be the di2 battery knocking in the seat tube area?
My size 58 feels like it has the same problem that GCN had with the frame. There seems to be more movement in the head tube/handlebar than on my other bikes.
I am still trying to find what causes this. Did you all receive 2 different c-rings for the headset? Are you guys using the metal c ring?
Tried to record the flex i see, hopefully these files attach correctly. The bike is in a trainer for these videos.
I get similar flex on my Condor (steel frame, full carbon fork) and my Tideace gr201. Worth noting that like in the GCN video there's a lot of tyre compression which could exaggerate how it feels and looks? I also noticed that when I compress it I can see the tiniest gap forming at the back of the headset cover spacer (can't think of the name) which would suggest the steerer is flexing slightly?
Undid stem to check and I have the metal c-ring (silver in colour) it's about 1mm thick by the looks of it, hard to tel
Looking at the videos, it doesn't seem to flex to me...I don't even notice the gap at the back of the headset cover.
Is the C-ring you used for mounting the headset the one that came with the frame or the handlebar?
What model are the handlebars?
It could also be the seat clamp. Grease it according to these instructions if you haven't already...
The green stuff is grease and the black stuff is carbon paste.
Since I’m pretty satisfied with the current build and not sure what else I could improve without spending a fortune, I was thinking about upgrading to thru-axles. I came across these on Alix https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005612065745.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4sSXzhb) has anyone tried them yet?
| Part | Weight (g) |
| Frame (inc. FD hanger + 5x bolts) | 870 |
| Steerer uncut | 412 |
| Seatpost (zero offset) | 126 |
| Front axle | 30,3 |
| Rear Axle | 37,6 |
| RD Hanger | 30,3 |
| c-ring | 11,6 |
| Seatpost hw Ø7 | 69,7 |
| Seatpost clamp | 21,1 |
| Rubber seatpost clamp cover | 2,3 |
| Expander+topcap | 57,1 |
| Headset bearings (2pcs) | 61,6 |
| Total | 1 730,5 |
Tried to record the flex i see, hopefully these files attach correctly. The bike is in a trainer for these videos.Thx for the videos. My movement is mostly left/right I feel (It's way more than on my other bikes). I will swap the metal c ring for a plastic one and try again.
I get similar flex on my Condor (steel frame, full carbon fork) and my Tideace gr201. Worth noting that like in the GCN video there's a lot of tyre compression which could exaggerate how it feels and looks? I also noticed that when I compress it I can see the tiniest gap forming at the back of the headset cover spacer (can't think of the name) which would suggest the steerer is flexing slightly?
Undid stem to check and I have the metal c-ring (silver in colour) it's about 1mm thick by the looks of it, hard to tel
When I ordered my frameset, there was no integrated handle bar option. So I just used the provided headset and c-ring that came with it. I still wonder why GCN was having issues even after switching to a separate bar and stem.
Yeah I wonder too. I noticed it when riding the first r088 that I build up. It felt a little ’wobbly’ I thought it was the intergrated bar and never worried about it. Sold that bike.
Now on my new r088 build I use a seperste bar/stem and I can replicate what gcn shows. Its just a question if that is actually a problem, or potentially even unsafe to ride? I’ll try and video it.
Is the seatpost new? On my frame, which I purchased in January last year, I have a different saddle mount. I saw it on Alix: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009069060683.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c30PLFHV)
Light carbon bars and XMCS wheels popped on for the photo.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130028&mode=view)
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130029&mode=view)
65mm deep, 26iw 34mm external.
Place some tape near the chainstay :)
Popped it up in an earlier post, previous page I think
Rear tyre is 35wam with a couple of mm clearance. May not be enough but going to try it to see if I get any witness marks on the chainstays
The Spcycle 0 offset seatpost I ordered has arrived...unfortunately, unlike the pictures in the sales ad, the seatpost has a glossy anti-slip part that I really don't like.
I tried contacting Spcycle, and that's the only way they make it...so either I find someone who can repaint it all satin black, or I'll return it and buy another SL8-compatible model (probably with a side clamp).
When I placed my order, I request them not to put the anti-slip material and they accepted it.Strange...they told me they only make it with a non-slip surface because otherwise the seatpost would risk slipping.
Well, this was probably the easiest bike I've ever put together.Thx for confirming the GCN thing, I started to believe it was me. Build of two of these bikes and both have a fair bit of wiggling when leaning on the bar. Still the fastest bike I ever rode.
All the cables and hoses went through with no fuss or bother. Kudos to Lightcarbon for the bars, they really were simple.
Probably a five minute job with a file to tidy up the brake mounts.
BB was nice and clean and threaded in by hand.
30k shakedown this morning with no issues.
Comfortable and nipped along quite happily. Hit 70kph with confidence and no wobbles.
No seat slipping either at the clamp or in the frame
35.5mm wam rear tyre didn't touch the frame.
You can wiggle and shift the bars and make things look alarming like GCN, but I can do that with my FL1 or my brother's Cervelo S5 bars. I've put a 100mm fork expander in but don't think you need to. I gave it a couple of sprints with my meager wattage and it all felt solid enough.
Good bike I think.
Good bike I think.
(https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/download/file.php?id=130079&mode=view)
Could someone recommend me some good integrated handlebars for this frame? I got a Kocevlo Roval Rapide clone, but lost all confidence in them as they were very flexible and made funny carbon noises just being touched.I assembled this one.
Had my eyes on LightCarbon HBR17, but they don't have my size in stock.
I've been using this handlebar https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006309729622.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3XvLDEP) for I think 1000km, I haven't had any problems whatsoever, in fact the cable routing has been super useful, the only thing is to be careful with the spacers which require modification to make them more manageable.What exactly do you mean?
I'm digging the minimalist aesthetic! ;)
What exactly do you mean?
Thanks!In fact, I got it all wrong....I went from black to white! ;D
I find if I keep all my bikes black the wife doesn't notice when I change one :-)
As you can see in the image, the spacers supplied with the handlebars have the special feature of having space for the cables to pass through. If you go to a bike fit or if you need to remove or add a spacer, you must either remove the cables and the handlebar to completely remove the spacers, or if you make a small cut, you can remove the spacers without removing the entire handlebar. I hope I explained myself clearly.I thought the spacers were in two pieces.... ::)
I thought the spacers were in two pieces.... ::)
They are, they're just designed poorly :-\Oh, right...now I get it!
Oh, right...now I get it!
In fact, given how they are made, you can't remove the front piece!
Yesterday i had the chance to put my bike next to an original Tarmac SL8.
Here are the specs of both bikes:
R088
Elite Wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Shimano 105 Di2
Magene PES Powermeter cranks
Alloy stem and handlebar
Tarmac SL8
Roval C38
SRAM Rival AXS
SRAM Rival Powermeter cranks
Specialized alloy stem and handlebar
The frames look very similar compared to each other apart from the „speed sniffer“. The rest looks almost identical. The specialized is like 6k€+ if you buy it new. My bike was around 2200€.
To my surprise my bike with the 50mm wheels came in at ~8.1 kg while the specialized came in at ~8.25 kg (the R088 has tpu tubes, the tarmac still has normal tubes that’s a factor to consider). Today i will ride both bikes and make a comparison of the ride feel. But since my bike comes with different tires and a smaller handlebar i‘m not sure if you can do a fair comparison to compare just the frame. But even before riding the bikes i can already tell you price to performance ratio on the china bike is so much better.
I'm really curious to know...thanks!
I think if you're doing micro adjustments between rides, the saddle can still be nudged without much force. In my case I hadn't adjusted the saddle in a few months and decided to change the positioning. The clamps had already settled in-place and just needed a slight whack to loosen it. Not a dealbreaker in my opinion since the clamp and seat post stay in-place once firmly tightened.
I built my r088 in May last year with ltwoo rx mechanical. I want to upgrade to Shimano Ultegra di2 now. Will it fit? Is there any issues fitting the battery inside the seat post tube?
well, the parts order is pretty easy, upper earing then c-ring and then spacers. if you have the Spcycle handlebar mind that the top cap isn't flat (it’s conical) and you need the steering tube being at least 4 or 5mm below the handlebar level. I believe this is your issue on may be the c-ring not fitted properly. I say that just bacause I actually had to cut my fork tube twice, because I ended up a couple of millimeters too long at the first attempt.
I built my r088 in May last year with ltwoo rx mechanical. I want to upgrade to Shimano Ultegra di2 now. Will it fit? Is there any issues fitting the battery inside the seat post tube?I had no trouble on my frame. Or, I had to cut the seatpost a bit, but that was due to the fact that I got the long seatpost, but should have had the short one. I also have to drill two holes in the seatpost now that I have cut it, to fit the battery holder, but for now I just leave it in the frame, just a pain to get out.
Thanks! I cut the tube 4mm below the top. I’m hoping I can reposition the compression bung before I need to recut the steerer. Even using a small spacer will be preferable to this. I think the lower SPC cover / spacer sits directly on top of the bearing. The split ring I received as part of the kit didn’t seem to fit :thinkI don't think...the lower headset cover shouldn't sits directly on the bearing, but on the C ring/crown ring.
Thanks! I cut the tube 4mm below the top. I’m hoping I can reposition the compression bung before I need to recut the steerer. Even using a small spacer will be preferable to this. I think the lower SPC cover / spacer sits directly on top of the bearing. The split ring I received as part of the kit didn’t seem to fit :think
I have a question regarding this: at how many Nm did you tighten the upper clamp?
At approximately 4–5 Nm, the saddle's tilt changed; I have now tightened it to 6 Nm and hope that the tilt position holds.
After the initial issues with noises coming from the seatpost and the LTWOO micro-adjustment, I can finally fully enjoy the new bike. And wow, it’s fast :DI'm curious to ask you: which headset cover and spacers did you use?
I'm curious to ask you: which headset cover and spacers did you use?
Thanks
All from DEDA.So you used the 56mm headset cover that came with the Superbox stem and you didn't need any specific adapters, right?
So you used the 56mm headset cover that came with the Superbox stem and you didn't need any specific adapters, right?
Hello from my side,
After reading and benefiting from all the insights here, I can now post a short middle-term review. Overall, I am super pleased with the bike and the build.
Here are the specs:
Size: 54 metallic frame (I believe it’s colour 3)
Seatpost: Zero offset
Headset/Stem: Fully integrated FSA Headset and SMR Stem
Handlebar: Balugoe, 36.5cm wide
Shifters: 105 Di2
Derailleurs: Ultegra Di2 rear and front
Cranks: Magene PES P505 Powermeter, 165mm
Chainrings: Spécialités TA
Cassette: ZTTO 11-34
Wheelset: Tagoola Aeroraptor (60mm deep, 23mm internal, UD-Satin finish, 5mm bladed carbon spokes, 1260g)
Tires: Continental GP5000 S TR, 30mm
Saddle: Fizik
The bike just fits like a glove and rides super well. I was skeptical if the wheels would be problematic in crosswinds, but so far they perform better than expected. The communication and build process went without any problems.
I love that so many details are now standardized: UDH, BSA BB, and the headset. I first installed a Kocevlo integrated handlebar but felt it was too soft; I believe most of the movement came from the top headset cover. After switching to the FSA headset/stem combination, it felt totally different. I now have much more confidence in the bike and the build.
Super happy with the bike, the only problem is that I genuinely don't know what to upgrade now!
(http://)
Hello from my side,
After reading and benefiting from all the insights here, I can now post a short middle-term review. Overall, I am super pleased with the bike and the build.
Here are the specs:
Size: 54 metallic frame (I believe it’s colour 3)
Seatpost: Zero offset
Headset/Stem: Fully integrated FSA Headset and SMR Stem
Handlebar: Balugoe, 36.5cm wide
Shifters: 105 Di2
Derailleurs: Ultegra Di2 rear and front
Cranks: Magene PES P505 Powermeter, 165mm
Chainrings: Spécialités TA
Cassette: ZTTO 11-34
Wheelset: Tagoola Aeroraptor (60mm deep, 23mm internal, UD-Satin finish, 5mm bladed carbon spokes, 1260g)
Tires: Continental GP5000 S TR, 30mm
Saddle: Fizik
The bike just fits like a glove and rides super well. I was skeptical if the wheels would be problematic in crosswinds, but so far they perform better than expected. The communication and build process went without any problems.
I love that so many details are now standardized: UDH, BSA BB, and the headset. I first installed a Kocevlo integrated handlebar but felt it was too soft; I believe most of the movement came from the top headset cover. After switching to the FSA headset/stem combination, it felt totally different. I now have much more confidence in the bike and the build.
Super happy with the bike, the only problem is that I genuinely don't know what to upgrade now!
(http://)
Beautiful. Do you have any other photos? I want to get it too and I was undecided about the color, whether it's like yours or Chamaleong purple matte.
Link for the stem? :)
This one:
https://www.bike-components.de/de/FSA/Non-Series-SMR-31-8-Vorbau-p88038/?v=12039-black
Also you need the corresponding adapter for the acr headset cover (only if you go fully internal, you also have the option to go semi, with the hoses routed underneath the stem):
https://www.bike-components.de/de/FSA/SMR-auf-ACR-Adapter-p88118/?o=1000334301-black&delivery_country=DE&channeltype=pmax&upid=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20543344239&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwwpDQBhAuEiwAa-4Wozp94RgC8hffViLy1SuXdOOGW9dH0PSEkVFaQJDilEaTW8VH0DWrFhoC8QYQAvD_BwE
And the Acr Headset (NO. 55):
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/fsa-no.55r-1.5/acr-steuersatz?delivery=DEU¤cy=EUR&mtm_source=google_ads&mtm_medium=cpc&mtm_campaign=css_ph&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23176838830&gclid=CjwKCAjwwpDQBhAuEiwAa-4Wo3TaX9gL6Cex4M-1QewHIQuGZvJyuA7iDDs6kzFHOSTSzyra5tB31RoCunAQAvD_BwE
Does anyone use Ridenow inner tubes with metal valves
Are you sure with this bearings? They have internal angle of 36 degrees. On the top it depends but on the fork side it schould be 45 or i am missing something?
Does anyone use Ridenow inner tubes with metal valves https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007306513500.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4qXNcej)?
How do you find them, any issue?
Does anyone use Ridenow inner tubes with metal valves https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007306513500.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4qXNcej)?
How do you find them, any issue?
This is what I am planning to buy, which temporary handlebar and stem combo did you buy?
I'm trying to decide which color to order for the frame. I'm not sure whether to try a metallic paint finish or just play it safe and order it in UD raw carbon glossy. Do you have any real photo references for glossy metallic color finishes? I tried asking David, but he didn't respond and aside from this reply (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg76096.html#msg76096) in the thread, I couldn't find much.
Thank you. Yes, I had already ruled out the matte finish, since I know it’s almost impossible to keep in good condition.
Hi Lorenzo, I have color 4 (dark silver metallic) in matte.
I regret choosing the matte finish a little, as it seems to be very sensitive to scratches. As soon as it comes into contact with something — for example, when placed against another bike — it leaves marks on the paint. I think it probably needs a protective layer on top.
I haven’t seen similar comments here on the forum from people with glossy bikes. Maybe it was advertised as needing an extra protective layer, but I can’t remember.
In retrospect, I would have ordered it in raw carbon (glossy), since the matte finish seems to need an extra coating or paint job anyway.
Hi,
I have been riding my SP-R088 for a while now and I have been really happy so far. However, recently the frame has developed a creaking noise while I pedal at high (300+ W) power. Really annoying when going uphill. I have retightened the crank (actually, I got a new crank arm, but that is another story), so my next suspect is the bottom bracket. I tried to tighten it already, but it doesn't move any more.
Any ideas how I should go about this? Should I add more grease or something? Any other suggestions on what I should check? I am pretty sure the creaking is coming from the drivetrain area. I distinctly remember creaking when I push down with my right leg, and I am not entirely sure whether it is also present on the opposite side.
Hi,Check the tiny bolt on rear dropout, on my r065 it was sometimes a bit loose and creating this kind of noise.
I have been riding my SP-R088 for a while now and I have been really happy so far. However, recently the frame has developed a creaking noise while I pedal at high (300+ W) power. Really annoying when going uphill. I have retightened the crank (actually, I got a new crank arm, but that is another story), so my next suspect is the bottom bracket. I tried to tighten it already, but it doesn't move any more.
Any ideas how I should go about this? Should I add more grease or something? Any other suggestions on what I should check? I am pretty sure the creaking is coming from the drivetrain area. I distinctly remember creaking when I push down with my right leg, and I am not entirely sure whether it is also present on the opposite side.
Hi,
I have been riding my SP-R088 for a while now and I have been really happy so far. However, recently the frame has developed a creaking noise while I pedal at high (300+ W) power. Really annoying when going uphill. I have retightened the crank (actually, I got a new crank arm, but that is another story), so my next suspect is the bottom bracket. I tried to tighten it already, but it doesn't move any more.
Any ideas how I should go about this? Should I add more grease or something? Any other suggestions on what I should check? I am pretty sure the creaking is coming from the drivetrain area. I distinctly remember creaking when I push down with my right leg, and I am not entirely sure whether it is also present on the opposite side.
Happened to me just changed the bottom bracket and it solved my issue
Did you grease and check torque on chainrings bolts too ?
Check the tiny bolt on rear dropout, on my r065 it was sometimes a bit loose and creating this kind of noise.
Have you lubricated the seat post wedge?
What is the widest tires you guys have been able to fit on this frame? Could it fit some gravel tyres?no this wont fit a gravel tire. 34 is the max i would comfortably ride. I personally ride 30's
Consider that most of the aerodynamic drag comes from your body and a small percentage from the bike. Let's not get caught up in doubt. Consider that just by wearing an aero sock (at 45 kph if I'm not mistaken) you save something like 8W. I assure you that the fork profile doesn't have much of an impact :)
PS. These AliE aero socks seem excellent, super cheap too! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007072961788.html?
Does anyone else think the profile on our front forks doesn’t look very aero? The leading edge is a bit blocky and there’s no appreciable camtail on the back. I come from an aero bike and ride TT so this is noticeable to me 🤔Not to comtradict you here but imo It isn't blocky, it is deeper/chunky at the top and rounded. Funny enough this makes it more aero in theory.
The odd thing is that then you stick some electric tape on it which pretty much defeats any aero benefits of the new shape ;D ;D 8)
I would like to buy a separate cockpit such as the Quick ZEPHYR SL. What kind of headset adapter do I need? Trying to find the one that will look the nicest on this bike.
Sorry if this has already been written...how much do you tighten the Spcycle 0mm offset seatpost bolt?Says max 10 nm on the listing for the seatpost on aliexpress
Says max 10 nm on the listing for the seatpost on aliexpressI'd seen the instructions in the sales ad description...but I wanted to know from the users of this forum how much they tightened it.
I'd seen the instructions in the sales ad description...but I wanted to know from the users of this forum how much they tightened it.
For now, I've tightened it to 6Nm (7mm steel rails)...today I'm doing my first test ride, hoping nothing will move.
I'd seen the instructions in the sales ad description...but I wanted to know from the users of this forum how much they tightened it.
For now, I've tightened it to 6Nm (7mm steel rails)...today I'm doing my first test ride, hoping nothing will move.
What size is the rear thru axle? I stripped mine and would like to replace it.
What’s the widest tire that can fit in this frame? I currently have 28 mm tires, but I’d like to fit wider ones in the future. Has anyone tested this?
First time poster, long time lurker.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YjgTL4jM/IMG-1215-2.avif) (https://postimages.org/)
Very happy with the overall quality!