Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: patliean1 on October 23, 2024, 08:29:27 AM
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https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html (https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html)
A far better alternative than buying a bottom bracket exploding fake SL8 in my opinion. Identical geometry of course. Maybe I should get one to compare to my actual Tarmac SL8
Seraph is the "brand" counterpart to Tantan if I'm not mistaken...
EDIT: Even the geometry chart is using a photo of a frame with an SL7 Tarmac stem and spacers ;D
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And who says this is not the same production? Just another distribution :s
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I've built two road frames up from TanTan/Seraph. Both were loosely inspired off western brands (Scott Foil and Trek Madone) but not identical in geometry. Very solid given the price. I also a TanTan/Tideace GR201 gravel frame on order.
This particular X-68 is conflicting. TanTan is a legitimate brand/factory/whatever and they make reputable products. This is this the first time I've seen them release a product to be straight up clone. Not similar in design or "inspired" like their X-34 and X-38. Actual one to one. From the saddle clamp to the Roval handlebars.
I just hope these frames aren't being supplied to the overwhelming number of fake sellers on AliX
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On an older counterfeit frame I received documents with a reference to TFSA JH model. Was an SL7, was a good frame but I really don't know what brand to trust anymore.
Maybe they just bought those and repainted them.
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Don’t discard the possibility that big western brand stuck with too much inventory move their overstock through back channels rather than discount heavily under their name which would not be good for their high end and exclusive image…
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28C only with that huge front fork? xD
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I've built two road frames up from TanTan/Seraph. Both were loosely inspired off western brands (Scott Foil and Trek Madone) but not identical in geometry. Very solid given the price. I also a TanTan/Tideace GR201 gravel frame on order.
This particular X-68 is conflicting. TanTan is a legitimate brand/factory/whatever and they make reputable products. This is this the first time I've seen them release a product to be straight up clone. Not similar in design or "inspired" like their X-34 and X-38. Actual one to one. From the saddle clamp to the Roval handlebars.
I just hope these frames aren't being supplied to the overwhelming number of fake sellers on AliX
Is it the same feeling as when Velobuild made their 218/Dogma F frame?
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This frame being offered by Tantan is an unfortunate consequence of the high demand and interest in counterfeits. A few sellers, like Airwolf, have moved from open molds to mostly selling copies of other frames. I have no idea if these are better quality than other copies, but I doubt it. Afterall, where does the money spent go? Probably not into doing actual engineering work.
Don’t discard the possibility that big western brand stuck with too much inventory move their overstock through back channels rather than discount heavily under their name which would not be good for their high end and exclusive image…
LOL at them being overstock from a Western brand. This doesn't happen unless that Western brand sells a catalog frame. It does happen for open molds or for molds where someone has bought exclusivity for several years but doesn't own the design. That is not the case for Cervelo, Specialized, Factor, and Pinarello, which are also not using these factories.
There are also visible differences between this frame and legit SL8 if you look close enough.
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Is it the same feeling as when Velobuild made their 218/Dogma F frame?
I've also built up a VB-168 and VB-268 from Velobuild. Both are essentially SL7 clones. Each frame was solid, with the 268 being stiffer. Neither frames ride anything like the Tarmac and this quickly becomes apparent over bad pavement.
With that said, I'd say TanTan makes more robust frames than Velobuild's offerings. So on paper this new X-68 should ride more similar to the SL8 than the VB-268 does the SL7.
However, I just don't believe TanTan/Seraph are actually manufacturing these new frames. I suspect as @Ludo said TanTan might just be playing broker/agent here. The real question is where is this overstock coming from...
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Yeah, that frame looks interesting, but only 28 mm clearance pretty much makes it a no go for me. But maybe this is a conservative estimate? If 30 mm would fit well, I guess it would be acceptable. Anyone got it and can report?
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It takes years to build a reputation and minutes to destroy it.
I guess tantan being on the market for so long wants to keep their reputation. Selling bad/other factories stuff could harm much more than any short term benefit
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The frame is also available on tantan's website: http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1160
Certainly interesting, not super sure how I feel about but I do like the look of the SL8 and wouldn't mind picking this frame up
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I just noticed that there is a matching decals kit for Redbull Bora on Speedy Decals. Hmm...
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I mean Seraph/Tantan are also selling fake Ostro Vam's pretty much. Aside from the seatpost it's literally a Factor.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007911929673.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%21C%24%20676.24%21C%24%20540.99%21%21%21478.14%21382.51%21%402101c59817297233606821177eef77%2112000042815179356%21sh%21CA%213856195575%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007599420335.1005007911929673
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Been disappointed by claimed weights too many times. I will be shocked if this comes in under 900g unpainted. Not hard to get a 9xx frame, I just got a Cervelo R5 "inspired" Tantan disc frame that came in around 950g with chameleon paint. Hey guys a 2lb plastic bike frame is still pretty impressive lol. Im a weight weenie but theres limits
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There is no way this is only 28c clearance. My last frame from TanTan said 28c and I fit 32c. They seem to be very conservative with measurements for some reason.
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literally a fake SL8 frame, no wonder my eps moulded SL8 will be ready soon.
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
Unless you want to drill holes the information displayed is quite straighforward :)
Even the pics don't show any holes. And I think that their definition of wireless doesn't encompass Shimano di2 once even these need holes.
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Guys, what do you think about only being able to mount wireless groups? Couldn't you put on a mechanical 105?
There are no cable exit holes, so only wireless I guess...
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There are no cable exit holes, so only wireless I guess...
I only see an underside battery cable hole for the RD and it looks like the battery cable for the FD is behind the front hanger. So definitely electronic only.
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I't like to see better pics of the headset-spacers. If these look clean, I'll be buying this. Too bad it looks like a copy, but an aero-ish leightweight bike that is kinda goodlooking is what I'm looking for. It's this or the Velobuild 268. The TanTan might be better.
Also interesting is the option to buy this with the gravel bike 201 from TanTan and only pay shipping once :)
Now I need to wheelsets :) Leighweight road for 28c tires and a wide gravel wheelset (both from one seller). Guess Elite is the way to go :)
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Also interesting is the option to buy this with the gravel bike 201 from TanTan and only pay shipping once :)
fingers crossed but i guess this will not happen. Orderd two wheelsets and they wanted shipping for both
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Some details, like the bottom bracket, look very much like the one i got from yohobike. Hopefully the exploding BB is a individual case. So far no problems with mine, and i can put down some serious numbers above 1000w .
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Some details, like the bottom bracket, look very much like the one i got from yohobike. Hopefully the exploding BB is a individual case. So far no problems with mine, and i can put down some serious numbers above 1000w .
Let's hope it's not the same frame. I've hammered mine multiple times 1300w + to but I'm mostly the leadout guy. 20s 1000w isn't rare but should be able to handle these kinds of stress
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Let's hope it's not the same frame. I've hammered mine multiple times 1300w + to but I'm mostly the leadout guy. 20s 1000w isn't rare but should be able to handle these kinds of stress
Even if you were cranking high watts I would still presume a threaded BB could handle the stress. It seems the BB threads weren't bonded correctly leading to eventual failure. Perhaps pressfit BBs aren't so bad, especially if using a threaded PF.
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I like the specs and such etc, but I really don't like how it's a blatant copy paste. If it were just inspired with notable differences I might be interested, but riding such a blatant counterfeit is just too wrong to me.
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Yeah, that is also my issue with the frame. I don't mind identical geometry, but they shouldn't have gone for a one-to-one copy aesthetically.
FYI, Rose sent me photos of the clearance in the back with 28 mm tires. Looks like there's loads of clearance, as expected. No photo of the fork, but I expect lots of clearance there as well. After all it looks exactly like the SL8...
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$629 frame + $150 shipping + $31 PayPal convenience fee = $810 And that doesn't include custom paint which is probably another $70. So probably $900 USD total
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't super intrigued about getting the frameset, slapping on some decals, and comparing it to my SL8. But $900 is a lot to gamble on. Especially when previous homage-type frames were decent for the price but missed the mark when comparing to their western brand counter-parts. A comparison probably unfair to make anyway.
Even if I convinced TanTan to send me a frame for review, they told me they aren't promoting this frame. For obvious reasons.
I still want one because....budget frames is life.
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I still want one because....budget frames is life.
strange, 2 days ago it cost 589$, that I had put in the cart. now 629$.
it's about 120$ more than the velobuild 268 in my pole position.
I'm undecided
anyway PAT we vote for you, do the comparison
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strange, 2 days ago it cost 589$, that I had put in the cart. now 629$.
it's about 120$ more than the velobuild 268 in my pole position.
I'm undecided
anyway PAT we vote for you, do the comparison
There are a lot of price increases before the 11-11 sale. Part of the strategy to make you believe you are getting a better sale price during the sale.
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I'm waiting for the BF ;D
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They also sent me another pic of the fork (didn't even ask for it) with 28 mm tires installed. Good clearance for wider tires as well as far as I can tell.
Still not sure if I should go for it. I really want a lightweight-ish frame though and the geometry is just spot on...
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Still not sure if I should go for it. I really want a lightweight-ish frame though and the geometry is just spot on...
It depends I guess.... If you always ride alone it could be OK, but if you do group rides, there will definitely be some real SL8's and it will be a little (or a lot) embarrassing to ride a fake...
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It depends I guess.... If you always ride alone it could be OK, but if you do group rides, there will definitely be some real SL8's and it will be a little (or a lot) embarrassing to ride a fake...
Unless of course you put no specialialized/SL8 logo's on the fake bike and beat them at every KOM on your bike that's only 1/10th of the price of theirs :)
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$629 frame + $150 shipping + $31 PayPal convenience fee = $810 And that doesn't include custom paint which is probably another $70. So probably $900 USD total
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't super intrigued about getting the frameset, slapping on some decals, and comparing it to my SL8. But $900 is a lot to gamble on. Especially when previous homage-type frames were decent for the price but missed the mark when comparing to their western brand counter-parts. A comparison probably unfair to make anyway.
Even if I convinced TanTan to send me a frame for review, they told me they aren't promoting this frame. For obvious reasons.
I still want one because....budget frames is life.
I would not get one if I already had an SL8. I am currently building an R5 clone.... I have no idea how an R5 rides so I won't know what I'm missing.
Unless of course you put no specialialized/SL8 logo's on the fake bike and beat them at every KOM on your bike that's only 1/10th of the price of theirs :)
You could do that with pretty much any China brand bike though, without the silliness of trying to pass off a counterfeit frame as real.
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Of course I wouldn't put a fake S-Works logo on it, that would be extremely silly... I think it's fine to see such a frame as heavily inspired by the original, but standing on its own. It's not an exact replica, after all (otherwise we wouldn't be talking about tire clearance etc.).
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Fuck you mean it's not an exact replica? I bet that shit was 3d scanned, imported to cad and went straight to mold design
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Fuck you mean it's not an exact replica? I bet that shit was 3d scanned, imported to cad and went straight to mold design
I guess you're right... I just want to spin it positively perhaps. ::)
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C'mon Mr.Lino, just hurry up and order one so you can tell us how it compares to a real SL8...
I bet it's just gnawing away at you. Pretty soon you won't be able to think about anything else ;D
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T-Werks labels in the Specialized font would be fun and cheeky.
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I knew someone with a yellow Specialized in the '90s that removed the i and the z from the down tube labels and added Short Bus model labels.
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C'mon Mr.Lino, just hurry up and order one so you can tell us how it compares to a real SL8...
I bet it's just gnawing away at you. Pretty soon you won't be able to think about anything else ;D
What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
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I would reach out to Tantan to see if they'll send you a frame....
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I would reach out to Tantan to see if they'll send you a frame....
It is best to order the frame as an anonymous in order to don't have a "special" QC because of the notoriety.
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What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
With 3500 curious hits on this thread I don't think it's actually a bad shout, I'd be in for fifteen:-)
You could raffle the frame off after full testing and donate to charity.... Everyone wins!
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What it be douchey of me to start a GoFundMe to raise funds? Everyone donates $15 haha
My monthly YouTube revenue and OnlyFan accounts aren't as lucrative as it seems...
You should try, I would donate for sure :)
Maybe that would be even a new business model, if people want to see a review for a potential purchase, they might consider this an insurance :)
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You could raffle the frame off after full testing and donate to charity.... Everyone wins!
I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
Just need the feats of strength to make it feel complete
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Tantan claims that it is full T1000 (not any T700 or T800). What do you think ? (Brittle, fragile,...)
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
The challenge is maybe the size of the frame? I think you ride a 56 right?
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I can fit a 56, so still in for fifteen lol ;D
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(https://i.imgur.com/9cIO8Ta_d.webp?maxwidth=760&fidelity=grand)
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email them leading the question with what's the approximate mix of fibers between T700, T800 and T1000?
If you tell them that, it's going to be harder for them to claim it's full T1000.
If you simply ask "is it full T1000?" they might not feel they're lying by saying yes.
China is culturally very different, and the language as well. What's B&W for us can be a satisfying shade of grey for them.
I asked for the mix but they said full T1000.
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A little bird tells me that's impossible, but maybe that little bird is a russian troll peddling conspiratorial non sense on truth social, and really is full of $hit.
You made my day :D.
Moreover T1000 is more expansive than T800 (but how much ?) and so is the EPS molding. But this frame is "not expansive" for those technologies...
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I’m in for $15 if this could really happen
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For the terminal use of the frame, I'd vote for a dystopian thing where some child molester has to ride the bike down a very long, very steep road, straight into a solid brick wall. I want slow mo cameras at the point of impact, I want a terminal velocity over 70kmh, I want blood, guts, pink mist really, blowing up. Obviously, the bike has no brakes. I'm not sure how practical it would be to prevent the guy from trying to save himself, so probably there are guard rails with various lovely knick knacks, like razor blades, rusty barb wire, maybe some embankments with broken glass.
And then the victims and their families get to piss on the carcass.
Then you discard the bike and chuck the remains in the compost bin.
That would sell so well as pay per view content. And bits of the impact would make great tiktok videos.
The show would need a nice title, maybe something demure like "piss on the carcass"?
I should work in media.
You should write satire. This is brilliant
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I asked for the mix but they said full T1000.
they can tell you its T6900 and you wouldn't have any means to prove it. just ask them to send some videos of a load test done on that frame and be at peace with it
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What i find the most problematic is how seraph made a 321g with uncut steerer copied fork while specialized one's are around 350-370g.
It doesn't seem safe at all for me...
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What i find the most problematic is how seraph made a 321g with uncut steerer copied fork while specialized one's are around 350-370g.
It doesn't seem safe at all for me...
Seraph knows how to use carbon as opposed to Spe ;D...
You are right, very suspicious'
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I really like this idea. Test for a couple of months, and then have the Chinertown moderators randomly select a member to receive the frame afterwards. It's a Festivus miracle!
Do it Pat, for Chinertown science!! I'll be down to donate.
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I'm veery tempted to get this frame actually... I've emailed Tantan/seraph to know if the frame takes Spe SL8 accessories like seat post and such but told me no
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I don't get it. First everyone is saying fakes are bad and now you all want one reviewed?
Sometimes I think this forum should be called toopoor4sworks.com instead! ::)
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Has it occured to you, perhaps, that people are not a monolithic entity, but rather individuals with differing opinions?
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I don't get it. First everyone is saying fakes are bad and now you all want one reviewed?
Sometimes I think this forum should be called toopoor4sworks.com instead! ::)
Apart from the ethical question, I think that people do not want fakes because they do not know the origin of the frame and the manufacturing quality contrary to Tantan who produce their own frames and who have a reputation (good to bad) in the manufacturing.
On the other hand, not sure if they produce this frame specifically...
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Has it occured to you, perhaps, that people are not a monolithic entity, but rather individuals with differing opinions?
Wow, you must be philosopher. ::)
If people want fakes, I'm all for it. Might as well go all in and get a fake SL8 from Taiwan Eisen and compare it to the real thing. None of this baby step bullshit!
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Tantan says the frame only comes in matte black. No custom paint options are available.
This tells me Tantan is probably just brokering the frames rather than manufacturing them. A little unsettling if you ask me.
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Did you ask if it was a matter of time? Maybe if you ask them for 50 USD more than normal? XD
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That's strange, when they first had the bike listed you could choose custom painting?
It really seems like all of these frames are coming from the same place, doesn't exactly fill me with confidence.
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If anyone wants this frame with s-works on for 250€ send me a message. Also full T1000, unbreakable bracket and clean headset.
In reality fucked up frame with flaws and glued in bracket. But it rides, 250€ for decoration is a fine price .. haha
I'm sorry but I don't believe this is a different frame than the counterfeits being offered.
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I might be better off buying a used SL8 frameset, lol. Any recommendations for an SL8 compatible integrated cockpit from China? Ideally I would like a bit of flare with something like 38-39 cm in the hoods and around 40 cm in the drops and compact geometry.
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If anyone wants this frame with s-works on for 250€ send me a message. Also full T1000, unbreakable bracket and clean headset.
In reality fucked up frame with flaws and glued in bracket. But it rides, 250€ for decoration is a fine price .. haha
I'm sorry but I don't believe this is a different frame than the counterfeits being offered.
Have you had some news from your seller or He is still ghosting you ?
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Have you had some news from your seller or He is still ghosting you ?
Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
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Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
Did you pay by PayPal ? Even if yes, I doubt PayPal can do anything.
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Even Winow is ghosting me. Drives me mad how unprofessional some of these people are. I spent 3k with the guy and he wont reply.
I just wanted to vent :)
Winow ? So not more professional as the others sellers.
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Got multiple phonenumbers and their address in Dongguan but I'm still being ghosted.
If anyone is in China and doing research at replica business send me a private message. Would be an awesome youtube video.. ;D (hint hint)
what do you mean by research?
well i do have news of at least 50 person getting caught at the factory which speshalice outsource their frame manufacturing and R&D to
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what do you mean by research?
well i do have news of at least 50 person getting caught at the factory which speshalice outsource their frame manufacturing and R&D to
whats!?
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I’d be very intrigued to see a blind test of Tarmac sl8 vs this X68 with the exact same components.. I doubt lot of people could feel the difference
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I wonder if this frame comes from the same factory as the others fake SL8 which are sold on Aliexpress or OBM, Taiwan Eisen...
Just curious of the quality.
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I wonder if this frame comes from the same factory as the others fake SL8 which are sold on Aliexpress or OBM, Taiwan Eisen...
Just curious of the quality.
Tantan told me that they are manufacturing it themselves but I still doubt
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Tantan told me that they are manufacturing it themselves but I still doubt
You are lucky. They told me that this information is confidential...
True or not ?
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I've been dealing with TanTan both as a paying customer and a YouTuber. My new GR201 gravel frameset is currently in paint according to TanTan.
One thing I've noticed on their Instagram is all the frames they seem to genuinely manufacture themselves have videos showing the frames being pre-production stress tested, painted in their lab, and then fully built. This is especially true for newly produced frames which they specifically want to market to OEM brands first versus direct to consumer. Basically the videos highlight their manufacturing capacity.
The X68 seemingly came out of nowhere. No pre-prod testing and no custom paint options available. Of course they don't want to fully promote this frame for obvious reasons.
TanTan lurks this forum as we know. From their perspective they probably have no incentive to disclose where the frames came from. For all we know, owners/investors of these factories probably own shares in other (read: competing) factories and therefore have the ability to trade products/blueprints etc.
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Here is a video where we can see the inside of the frame :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA
What do you think ?
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Here is a video where we can see the inside of the frame :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA
What do you think ?
Your link is invisible
I can't get it to show up either. Seems to be some kind of bug...
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Your link is invisible
I can't get it to show up either. Seems to be some kind of bug...
Yes, it is a bug. You can search it on YouTube :
TT-X68 inner wall shows precision cutting and high-strength carbon cloth stacking
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Yes, it is a bug. You can search it on YouTube :
TT-X68 inner wall shows precision cutting and high-strength carbon cloth stacking
It seems made extremely well..
I really hope it is the same producer of Taiwaneisen that I ordered.
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Tantan says the frame only comes in matte black. No custom paint options are available.
This tells me Tantan is probably just brokering the frames rather than manufacturing them. A little unsettling if you ask me.
When I originally saw the comments re: "Specialized offloading overstock" I first thought: "what a wacky conspiracy theory!". But now after digging into this thread, and playing a bit of "spot the difference" between photos of the original SL8 and the Seraph SL8...I'm becoming more convinced.
What a weird thing to do. They must be taking quite the loss on each frame sold this way if they really are overstock.
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What. If they had overstock issues like that they could just do a big sale, at 30% they could burn through all stock in like a week
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When I originally saw the comments re: "Specialized offloading overstock" I first thought: "what a wacky conspiracy theory!". But now after digging into this thread, and playing a bit of "spot the difference" between photos of the original SL8 and the Seraph SL8...I'm becoming more convinced.
What a weird thing to do. They must be taking quite the loss on each frame sold this way if they really are overstock.
Currently staring at my SL8 as I type this. The X68 is close but not identical.
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Currently staring at my SL8 as I type this. The X68 is close but not identical.
Can you tell us the difference please ?
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The overall shape of the seat post is ever so slightly different. The area where the seat tube meets the top tube is also marginally off.
While the bonding of the BSA bottom bracket to the X68 frame is rough compared to the SL8, it's on par with $500 frames. Specialized does a superb job of facing the bottom bracket (and caliper mounts), and you can clearly see how smooth the bare carbon is around the BB. I have a video on this. However, I can't tell in TanTan's photos if they either faced the BB then added matte black paint or simply not face it at all.
Personally I don't believe the X68 will catastrophically explode like one would expect if this was a purely counterfeit frame sold on AliExpress. That would be a bad look for a genuine supplier like TanTan. And other than TanTan using that seatpost gripping material, the frame would 99% pass the eye test for a genuine SL8.
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I just stumbled across this thread.
Is the TTX68 from Tantan or the SL8 version from Airwolf the "better" frame, geometry is the same, I'm just curious with which of these two frame to go, from which of those two sellers I can expect the better frame in general?
Or should I go with a LCR017 from Lightcarbon which has a very similar geometry and is not like a direct copy of a brand frame but more like heavily inspired by the SuperSix
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I just stumbled across this thread.
Is the TTX68 from Tantan or the SL8 version from Airwolf the "better" frame, geometry is the same, I'm just curious with which of these two frame to go, from which of those two sellers I can expect the better frame in general?
Or should I go with a LCR017 from Lightcarbon which has a very similar geometry and is not like a direct copy of a brand frame but more like heavily inspired by the SuperSix
I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
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I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
Thanks,
I like the not so much look a like look from the LCR017 it's more like a genuine bike standing on it's own rather than a copy that's why it is in my list
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I'd personally pick TanTan over Airwolf 9/10 times.
The LCR017 is also pretty good from what I've seen and heard, don't think you can really go wrong with it if you like the look.
I wish I know if Tantan is the manufacturer of this frame, or just a broker.
Maybe Patrick can have the information ?
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Tantan is a big animal, and their reputation is not great because of that. They sell a LOT of frames. Airwolf frames are dog $hit, for simplicity. If you have to choose between the 2, 100% of the time, go w Tantan.
Tantan isn't a broker, they make frames, afaik. It might be a carbonda situation where carbonda does make frames but it's probably the mothership behind it called - the name escapes me - that actually makes them, but it doesnt make carbonda a broker.
Velobuild is a broker.
Airwolf frames are crap, in the sense that the probability that you have significant problems with your frame is so high that you really have to want to make your life difficult AND give your money to people who give zero fucks to work with them. I do love their cockpits though, which tells me, they source stuff all over the place. Maybe they make the frames and source the cockpits.
I know that Tantan is not a broker but I doubt that They are the manufacturer of this frame.
And yes, I don't like Airwolf either (but never test their handlebar).
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These factories are owned by various stakeholders/shareholders. And some of these folks also have a vested interest in other factories.
I imagine it's probably easy to hot swap frames and manufacturing between them.
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Also funny Seraph claims 28mm tire clearance and Tantan 32mm (which I guess is right)
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I’m excited to share that I’ve officially commissioned the TT-X68 as a "Full Build"! After thorough consideration and planning, I decided to go with Tantan.
As per the timeline provided, the full build will take approximately 25-30 working days to complete. Following that, there will be an additional 10-15 days for shipping, so I anticipate its arrival in mid-end January.
I’ll keep you all updated on the progress and, of course, will share pictures and initial impressions once it arrives. If interested.
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCykaKPu7fP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCykaKPu7fP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)
Magically TanTan says they offer custom paint options now :o
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FYI, the min seatpost insertion length is 100 mm with the 380 mm. For the original SL8, it is 75 mm.
Edit : Correction of min/max
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FYI, the max seatpost length is 100 mm with the 380 mm. For the original SL8, it is 75 mm.
You mean the minimum insert into Frame?
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You mean the minimum insert into Frame?
Yes, you are right.
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I’m excited to share that I’ve officially commissioned the TT-X68 as a "Full Build"! After thorough consideration and planning, I decided to go with Tantan.
As per the timeline provided, the full build will take approximately 25-30 working days to complete. Following that, there will be an additional 10-15 days for shipping, so I anticipate its arrival in mid-end January.
I’ll keep you all updated on the progress and, of course, will share pictures and initial impressions once it arrives. If interested.
Can you share prices and specs?
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i believe, like others, it s exactly the same frame already sold by airwolf
https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/2024-new-painting-light-weight-brand-sw-carbon-road-bicycle-frame-t1100-carbon-disc-brake-sl-bike-frame-bsa-bottom-bracket-with-handlebar/ (https://airwolfcarbonbike.com/product/2024-new-painting-light-weight-brand-sw-carbon-road-bicycle-frame-t1100-carbon-disc-brake-sl-bike-frame-bsa-bottom-bracket-with-handlebar/)
exactly the same geometry (SL8 copy)-> difference of 3mm on the effective top tube for the 52 (531vs 528) , but is it true when you analyse the pictures?
same BB : BSA
same spacers
almost the same weight and we can say same weight if we take into account the error margin
not verifiable differences:
light differences about the paint or sticker
28c vs 32C
Di2 or Mechanical vs only electrical
headset diameter 49mm vs 52mm
and probably 30 min by car between the 2 headquarters
But i agree that most SL8 fakes get 49/49.5mm for the headset (same diameter for specialized), i have never seen a fake model with 52mm. if it is the case the probability that tantan build the frame increases
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Can you share prices and specs?
Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Price of oneSaddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
~~ total 2819 €
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Saddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
Will they build the bike for you ?
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To be honest i dont really know.
It is my first time that i buy something from china directly.
I think they will build this bike "half way" . thats at least what i can interpretate from our communications.
They will "send photos once its completed" 25-30 workdays.
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
Wheelset: "50×28mm tubeless Wave Wheel Ceramic Titanium hub 54T center lock Carbon spoke" on their website ; titanium hubs ; Carbon spokes ; Matt finish ; ≈≈1305G
Pricing:
TT-X68 Bike Shimano R7170 Groupset/carbon wheels
HB068:110*400mm 54cm black matte US$2,289.00
Saddle SD4000 (bought 2 saddles Sd4000 and sd 2000) US$59.00
Extra carbon spokes+nipples 10 pieces US$60.00
Total US$2,408.00
Shipping By DPD US$280.00
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders (US$132.00)
Grand Total US$2,820.00
I paid 2729 EURO
!!exchanged by my Bank (2% fee) (Paypal has rly bad exchange rate)!!
will also go for custom painting "white chameleon" + 90dollar
PayPal Fee 5% commission on total orders for (Protection) ---> !!U can dodge this by paying ( family and friends option) but u loose protection!!
Thanks. Overall I'd say the price is right for all the specs. Not easy to get it cheaper.
Did you consider wheeltop instead of 105 di2?
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Details ==> see Pictures
Frame: Size 54 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 di2
how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
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how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
Hello SRAM ;D,
You are right :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDtpOkXAVCU
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how do you connect DI2 FD to the battery without drilling an hole?
Shitttttt, no hole for FD Di2.... Send them a message about it. It's a no-go for me, since I already have the groupset (2x11sp Di2 Ultegra).
Other option is the Speeder 55D, but it's about 350/400 usd more expensive or the Velobuild 268 that is a tiny bit heavier and seems to know some problems....
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Hi there, I have one ordered as well. I think cables are routed the same way as on the SL8. Page 22 in the instruction manual of the SL8.
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Picture.
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Hi there, I have one ordered as well. I think cables are routed the same way as on the SL8. Page 22 in the instruction manual of the SL8.
well seen, it seems to be the case , but nobody knows if there is an hole behind the cover
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well seen, it seems to be the case , but nobody knows if there is an hole behind the cover
Here is a picture of a replica (not Seraph but it is maybe the same mold for all replicas).
We can see 3 holes.
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Guys there is a Hole . Like the original tarmac sl8
https://youtu.be/sDtpOkXAVCU?si=ZnvWnhkHpfKSY8sT&t=14
0:14
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=lpHXJ90pJZjDlfDN&t=24
0:24
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Thanks. Overall I'd say the price is right for all the specs. Not easy to get it cheaper.
Did you consider wheeltop instead of 105 di2?
yes i did even consider LTWOO, but after all MY research i dont think there right "there". Few more years needed in MY opinion.
In Germany u get Shimano Di2 105 for around 1k euros (full Groupset shifters , disc brakes, Cranks, Etc)
WHEEL TOP EDS-TX "almost" same price
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Guys there is a Hole . Like the original tarmac sl8
https://youtu.be/sDtpOkXAVCU?si=ZnvWnhkHpfKSY8sT&t=14
0:14
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=lpHXJ90pJZjDlfDN&t=24
0:24
Thanks for that :) Was afraid I had to go for the more expensive option of Speeder :) And sorry was to lazy/in panic to search for myself ::)
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Hi, I'm also considering their frame. Someone already got a frame from them? I saw that some people have already ordered, but if was delivered, or everyone is waiting ?
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I'm almost ready to order this frame, just need to decide on the design of my decals (not speci of course).
I'm trying to do a 'leight weight-ish' build with 1250gr wheels. I'm fitting a Di2 11sp ultegra group. Just need to buy a crank. I need a powermeter, 11sp compatible, 172,5/170mm crank lenght and 52/36 rings. I'd like aero/closed rings that look look (like absolute black/alu gear). What would you guys advice (not to expensive, not heavy - preverably leight weight)
Is this the best option:
Magene Power Meter PES P505 Basis 4 Bolt 110BCD 24mm
PASS QUEST 110bcd
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Is this the best option:
Magene Power Meter PES P505 Basis 4 Bolt 110BCD 24mm
PASS QUEST 110bcd
I'd also consider the Magene P505 S1103 spider only. You can mount that to any 3 bolt crankset such as the Riro carbon cranks and get additional weight savings. I have two of S1103 PM spiders on my road bikes using carbon cranksets. It'll also open you up to any 110bcd 4 and 5 bolt options.
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
That sounds like a valid argument that I've read before. What your option be for PM, crank and chainrings? Is the PES Magene crank option that heavy/too heavy?
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It is really not that heavy. I'm using the shimano chainrings for the best shifting performance. The crank + chainrings weigh around 820g. That is roughly 100g heavier than the ultegra chainset without a pm. That is a tradeoff I gladly chose.
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The riro crankset has a 24mm aluminium spindle, I would not trust it. The magene crankset has a 24mm steel spindle like shimano has. As someone who had a broken spindle once, I would not go for aluminium, why chance it?
3 bolt cranksets in steel and 29mm axles also exist. ;)
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That depends of whether you want to use a 29mm spindle of a frame with a 41mm bb shell or you have a larger diameter bb, so you won´t have to use tiny bearings.
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Do you guys order TT and Seraph directly from their web site or is there a cheaper alternatives ? Is TT and Seraph the same or different ?
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I'd also consider the Magene P505 S1103 spider only. You can mount that to any 3 bolt crankset such as the Riro carbon cranks and get additional weight savings. I have two of S1103 PM spiders on my road bikes using carbon cranksets. It'll also open you up to any 110bcd 4 and 5 bolt options.
Pes505 is a great crankset with power meter. Weigh is competitive.
Riro have questionable quality and s1103 is pretty heavy at almost 150g. Would not chose this combo over pes505 base
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Pes505 is a great crankset with power meter. Weigh is competitive.
Riro have questionable quality and s1103 is pretty heavy at almost 150g. Would not chose this combo over pes505 base
I prefer having options with different cranksets and bottom bracket types. Plus I can go with a lightweight carbon or a sturdy steel crankset if I choose. To each their own, but I'd rather have flexibility.
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I prefer having options with different cranksets and bottom bracket types. Plus I can go with a lightweight carbon or a sturdy steel crankset if I choose. To each their own, but I'd rather have flexibility.
Yeah, for some reason people seem to prefer 1 fixed heavy option compared to flexibility....
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We are still talking about a frame with a 41mm bottom bracket shell. 3 bolt 29mm axle is a dead end system, if you don't have a 46/47mm bb shell.
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We are still talking about a frame with a 41mm bottom bracket shell. 3 bolt 29mm axle is a dead end system, if you don't have a 46/47mm bb shell.
Bro, there are 24mm steel axle 3 bolt cranksets available on the market. As it stands, 3 bolt cranksets are perhaps the most prevalent and price competitive option in the Chinese crankset market.
This isn't a complex scenario. Either A you prefer a fixed PM+crankset option -or- B you prefer the flexibility of a versatile PM+whichever crankset. Only reason I even mentioned this option is due to people who've been bodging their PM from the PES crankset and moving it to something else. They could have just bought the stand alone unit in the first place. ;)
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Hmmm I am so tempted to buy this!
have an actual SL8 S-Works and TAN TAN are not your regular counterfeit frame operation, so with this and the Supersix they now have it does make you think.
Good to see when someone posts a frame up
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Hmmm I am so tempted to buy this!
have an actual SL8 S-Works and TAN TAN are not your regular counterfeit frame operation, so with this and the Supersix they now have it does make you think.
Good to see when someone posts a frame up
What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
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What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
There is another thread on here about it but here is the link:
https://www.seraphbikes.com/new-full-hidden-cable-disc-brake-bsa-road-bike-frame-tt-x69-with-5d-integrated-handlebar-max-tire-70032c-p6173127.html
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What is their Supersix clone? They also have a Cervelo R5 clone in road and gravel geometries.
The R5 clone in road geometry is the FM639 but what is the gravel geometry R5 clone?
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Just to verify, the SL8 clones being marketed are the Seraph/TanTan X68, Onirii One Pro and SPCycle R088? All have near identical geometry, weight and features. Any others besides the obvious fakes?
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Just to verify, the SL8 clones being marketed are the Seraph/TanTan X68, Onirii One Pro and SPCycle R088? All have near identical geometry, weight and features. Any others besides the obvious fakes?
The SPCycle R088 and Onirii One Pro are more like a SL6 (but with full integration), no aero sniffer!
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Did anyone ask wheter the frame is moulded with Latex + EPS? Or more regular PU?
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The SPCycle R088 and Onirii One Pro are more like a SL6 (but with full integration), no aero sniffer!
no, IMHO, the SP R088 is identical to the sl8 to tan tan, to airwolf, in terms of geometry and shape, but with a different head tube and fork
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The R5 clone in road geometry is the FM639 but what is the gravel geometry R5 clone?
GR029. I don't know if it's an exact geometry match but it has an identical look with much bigger tire clearance and more relaxed ergonomics.
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My frame is painted and ready for shipment. At least on the pictures on Instagram, my color combo works out pretty well imho 8)
I hope the quality meets my expectations on arrival.
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My frame is painted and ready for shipment. At least on the pictures on Instagram, my color combo works out pretty well imho 8)
I hope the quality meets my expectations on arrival.
Do you have a link to your Frame on Instagram?
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Seraph has a pretty nice portfolio of their frames on their Instagram https://www.instagram.com/tantanfactory_bike_frame/?hl=en (https://www.instagram.com/tantanfactory_bike_frame/?hl=en)
I'm impatiently waiting for a few more reviews of the X68.
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Do you have a link to your Frame on Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/DDyPjJWJElM/?hl=en (https://www.instagram.com/p/DDyPjJWJElM/?hl=en)
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Teaser :
"my" ordered bike build is finished and rdy to ship.
Public video on instagram; https://www.instagram.com/p/DD9HWU2udrT/?hl=de
i also have received privat whatsapp photos of the bikebuild from tantan . I will post them when i get permission from tantan to post it here. Feel free to post your opinions.
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Complete Weight Of the Build : 7.175 KG
Details/Price/Specs: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
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is the handelbar cable system like the one in the photo? is there a possibility that they are hidden and not visible?
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Details: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
Do you mind if I ask what the total build price was? Great looking bike!
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is the handelbar cable system like the one in the photo? is there a possibility that they are hidden and not visible?
Not with this handlebar, it's the same on the real sl8 with roval rapide cockpit.
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Not with this handlebar, it's the same on the real sl8 with roval rapide cockpit.
$2,399 usd according to the insta post.
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That’s crazy value.
Personally, Building the bike myself and sourcing components is part of the fun for me. Also, I like the piece of mind of knowing that everything is in check. But I’m pretty amazed at what you can get for your money from TanTan.
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I wonder what an Ultegra build weighs and costs. That's impressive. I wish they'd start doing some more original lightweight designs.
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That’s crazy value.
Personally, Building the bike myself and sourcing components is part of the fun for me. Also, I like the piece of mind of knowing that everything is in check. But I’m pretty amazed at what you can get for your money from TanTan.
and i can see a benefit of having tantan prebuilds.
if theres something wrong with hole, clearances or odd niggles or defective parts, at least the 1st level fa/sorted out at tantan side.
tho it takes away the fun of building your own bike from scratch
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The Ultegra DI2 Groupset was about 1240$ without BB and Disc's. The weight difference is about 375 grams, when comparing the 105 DI2 and Ultegra, but only when not upgrading any 105 part.
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Still waiting for ride reviews
Reviews from Ali Express purchases joy great.
Maybe better frames from Tan Tan.
Are Tan Tan manufacturer ing there Sl8 copies
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Well I emailed Tan Tan and asked some questions in regards to frame prices shipping times etc.
I did ask do Tan Tan manufactur the frame and I was told
‘About the manufacturer of TT-X68, confidential. Thank you.’
Hmmm so not sure about it. They sell a frame that is obviously and SL8 label it an X68 and then will not confirm if they manufacture it which is strange I think.
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Legitimate question - What purpose would leaning into such investigative questions serve as a consumer looking to purchase clearly a fake/copy/unauthorized frameset?
One could argue it's about safety, production quality, or even integrity. I'd argue to probably look elsewhere for frame if any of those metrics are critical. I'm not saying consumers should throw all caution to the wind when buying fakes/copies. But there's an unspoken understanding that even TanTan expects the customer to abide by.
I don't go asking escorts about their history and business practices if all I want is a good time. And also the ease of just leaving the money on the night stand. I kid I kid ;D
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Legitimate question - What purpose would leaning into such investigative questions serve as a consumer looking to purchase clearly a fake/copy/unauthorized frameset?
One could argue it's about safety, production quality, or even integrity. I'd argue to probably look elsewhere for frame if any of those metrics are critical. I'm not saying consumers should throw all caution to the wind when buying fakes/copies. But there's an unspoken understanding that even TanTan expects the customer to abide by.
I don't go asking escorts about their history and business practices if all I want is a good time. And also the ease of just leaving the money on the night stand. I kid I kid ;D
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Hmmmm point taken.
It would provide maybe a little more peace of
Mind perhaps to the purchase to know the origin of
the frame, as if they are a manufacturer well it silly they have made the frame.
But I have learned this is not always the case.
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As promised, I’m finally sharing the photos you’ve all been waiting for. I have permission to post them here, so no worries on that front. I did not receive the Bike yet (expected mid january)
Complete Weight Of the Build : 7.175 KG
Details/Price/Specs: See at Page 8
Credits/Source:
Photos are from Tantan private Chat "Whatsapp"
Vivian@tantancycling.com
Sales01@tantancyling.com
Whatsapp:+86 13690938214
Nice frame and colour Combination.
How much did you at all for the whole purchase?
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$2399USD
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Curious to see how it rides. I was just quoted just under 2k usd for a wheeltop build with the standard 50mm deep wheels. Crazy value if it rides even 80% of an actual sl8.
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I'm still on the fence on this one as waiting for some reviews.
But obviously it would be interesting to to compare it to my SL8.
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!!MY!! First initial quality impression
Bike Delivery Update
Hi everyone,
The bike arrived on Tuesday and was very well packaged. A lot was already prebuilt, and the handlebar tape is wrapped like a god—truly excellent craftsmanship!
The fork’s bearing cups were not greased but weren’t completely dry either; they were still somewhat lubricated. I decided to apply bearing grease myself. The bearing cups for the fork, both top and bottom, fit perfectly with no play at all.
The seatpost itself is perfect—the scale markings are precise, clear, and easy to read. The two saddles I ordered additionally also seem to be of very high quality. As for the bike assembly, it was very straightforward and easy to complete.
Regarding the drivetrain, well, it’s Shimano 105 Di2—it works flawlessly as expected (Japanese quality!). The bike came with a Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket installed, which is a great addition.
The wheels also seem to be of very high quality, with no visible damage and running smoothly. However, the rear wheel is slightly unbalanced. That said, this is a common issue even with high-end bikes, as seen in many YouTube reviews. You can hear it slightly from the freehub’s oscillating sound, but it’s not a major concern.
I’d like to note that all of this is just an initial quality impression. This is not a long-term test, nor has a test ride been done yet, as it’s currently snowing here in Germany—January is the coldest month of the year.
The handlebar does have a slight flex when applying force to both ends. However, I can’t properly judge this since I’ve never had a "true" high-end main-brand carbon cockpit before. It’s worth mentioning that this kind of force generates a very high leverage effect, so the flex might be normal.
The paintwork looks phenomenal, but here too, I can’t comment on its durability yet.
U Also get no Torque Charts.. I asked tantan via whatsapp and they replied immediatly
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!!MY!! First initial quality impression
Bike Delivery Update
Hi everyone,
The bike arrived on Tuesday and was very well packaged. A lot was already prebuilt, and the handlebar tape is wrapped like a god—truly excellent craftsmanship!
The fork’s bearing cups were not greased but weren’t completely dry either; they were still somewhat lubricated. I decided to apply bearing grease myself. The bearing cups for the fork, both top and bottom, fit perfectly with no play at all.
The seatpost itself is perfect—the scale markings are precise, clear, and easy to read. The two saddles I ordered additionally also seem to be of very high quality. As for the bike assembly, it was very straightforward and easy to complete.
Regarding the drivetrain, well, it’s Shimano 105 Di2—it works flawlessly as expected (Japanese quality!). The bike came with a Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket installed, which is a great addition.
The wheels also seem to be of very high quality, with no visible damage and running smoothly. However, the rear wheel is slightly unbalanced. That said, this is a common issue even with high-end bikes, as seen in many YouTube reviews. You can hear it slightly from the freehub’s oscillating sound, but it’s not a major concern.
I’d like to note that all of this is just an initial quality impression. This is not a long-term test, nor has a test ride been done yet, as it’s currently snowing here in Germany—January is the coldest month of the year.
The handlebar does have a slight flex when applying force to both ends. However, I can’t properly judge this since I’ve never had a "true" high-end main-brand carbon cockpit before. It’s worth mentioning that this kind of force generates a very high leverage effect, so the flex might be normal.
The paintwork looks phenomenal, but here too, I can’t comment on its durability yet.
U Also get no Torque Charts.. I asked tantan via whatsapp and they replied immediatly
Looks nice! Could you tell the weight of your build (with and whitout wheels)? I'd like to know if I can make it 6,99 kilo with 11sp ultegra Di2 and 1230gr wheels :)
Also, what saddles are that? Do you know the weight of those? They look nice!
And last question: Is that color chameleon white, or pearl white?
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Seraph offers gravel bikes prebuilt with wheeltop from $900 on aliexpress, crazy!
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You bought from tantan/seraph a frame + bars + groupset that came pre-built in a box? And wheels in a different box?
Afaik, it's unheard of, please enlighten us. Shipping cost too, as air freight of these oversized boxes is charged linearly, so every kilo easily costs another 25 eur or so in extra shipping costs.
If carbon sellers can source groups at OEM prices, it could be very nice to receive pre-built bikes.
BRUH where have you been? We missed you.
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Under a rock it seems! Lol
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Hi
I got my fake SL8 from Taiwanese:
frame size 56 828gr (835gr with 5 bottles bolts and front derailleur hanger) - naked carbon finish, no logo
Fork 321gr - - naked carbon finish
Seatpost (long version) 173gr
Handlebar 347gr
It will take me some weeks to recollect the pieces and test it.
The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
I will keep you posted.
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The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
Have you installed the front end before you came to this verdict? You have to first install everything and torque everything and all will compress and the spaces will get narrower.
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Hi
I got my fake SL8 from Taiwanese:
frame size 56 828gr (835gr with 5 bottles bolts and front derailleur hanger) - naked carbon finish, no logo
Fork 321gr - - naked carbon finish
Seatpost (long version) 173gr
Handlebar 347gr
It will take me some weeks to recollect the pieces and test it.
The only thing I do not like at this stage is the space btw fork and head tube and btw headtube and headset coverage (I will add some photos).
I will keep you posted.
This issue of gaps in this area are well document over on Weighweenies for the actual SL8
Sone thought the gaps were excessive mainly where the transition spaces under the stem met the head tube. Good thing they transferring the same niggles onto the copies lol
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Seraph offers gravel bikes prebuilt with wheeltop from $900 on aliexpress, crazy!
Priced went up, and the shipping is alot more...
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$220 tu Texas, not too bad I think. that's get the bike delivered during sales for a cool $1000, hard to beat. it wasnt thta frame though
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Here are the gaps, on the top and below of the headtube.
Any suggestion to close a bit these spaces ?
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Can’t you file down the top side of the C ring to get it to where you want? I had to do that on my gravel bike, takes an hour work over a couple of nights for a perfect fit
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Here are the gaps, on the top and below of the headtube.
Any suggestion to close a bit these spaces ?
You got this from Taiwan, so not the same frameset from TanTan? so different hardware kit?
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Here’s the gap on my SL8 for reference.
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You bought from tantan/seraph a frame + bars + groupset that came pre-built in a box? And wheels in a different box?
Afaik, it's unheard of, please enlighten us. Shipping cost too, as air freight of these oversized boxes is charged linearly, so every kilo easily costs another 25 eur or so in extra shipping costs.
If carbon sellers can source groups at OEM prices, it could be very nice to receive pre-built bikes.
Yes!. Two Boxes, Well packaged and thick cardboard
Wheelset Box ~~4,5kg : Tires ; Innertube alrdy mounted ; discs brakes; cassette alrdy installed : it was just flat , i just had to pump it up !
Frame Box ~~ 7.5kg: Brake calipers ; inner cables (brakes and electronics) ; Bottom Bracked ; crankset ;Chain; Both derailleur ; Handebar tape; brakes Bleeded; Shifters , Saddle connected with seatpost , derailleur and crankset bolts are greased : ALL alrdy installed and really good craftmanship . shifting works (indexed),
I used tarmac sl8 manual pdf and added as it recommed by specialized Carbon paste: Seatpost and handlebar area for friction
Grease: bearings fork top and bot ; seatpost Bolt
Pricing details page 8
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Looks nice! Could you tell the weight of your build (with and whitout wheels)? I'd like to know if I can make it 6,99 kilo with 11sp ultegra Di2 and 1230gr wheels :)
Also, what saddles are that? Do you know the weight of those? They look nice!
And last question: Is that color chameleon white, or pearl white?
sry mate alrdy builded the bike up :-\
full build / sd2000 saddle / without pedals / frame size 54 : 7,175 Kg
Weight of the Saddle SD4000 no bolts 140 gr
saddle link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/3d-printing-technology-honeycomb-design-breathable-full-carbon-fiber-road-bicyle-saddle-sd2000-sd8000-mtb-bicycle-gravel-saddle-p5826463.html"
u can definitly safe weight at
Tires:
my tires Conti ultra sport 3 ("budget training tires") 700 X 28C / 2x 295 g
Innertube: conti. butyl tube
Wheelset: titanium hub / Carbon spokes / 1305g
Link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/700c-carbon-wave-wheelset-50x28mm-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-spoke-1305g-ratchet-3654t-ceramic-titanium-color-hub-road-bike-wheels-p5847395.html"
colour is "Chameleon White YS9145"
Di2 105 vs ultegra vs dura ace
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sry mate alrdy builded the bike up :-\
full build / sd2000 saddle / without pedals / frame size 54 : 7,175 Kg
Weight of the Saddle SD4000 no bolts 140 gr
saddle link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/3d-printing-technology-honeycomb-design-breathable-full-carbon-fiber-road-bicyle-saddle-sd2000-sd8000-mtb-bicycle-gravel-saddle-p5826463.html"
u can definitly safe weight at
Tires:
my tires Conti ultra sport 3 ("budget training tires") 700 X 28C / 2x 295 g
Innertube: conti. butyl tube
Wheelset: titanium hub / Carbon spokes / 1305g
Link "https://www.seraphbikes.com/700c-carbon-wave-wheelset-50x28mm-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-spoke-1305g-ratchet-3654t-ceramic-titanium-color-hub-road-bike-wheels-p5847395.html"
colour is "Chameleon White YS9145"
Di2 105 vs ultegra vs dura ace
Thanks! With GP5000 + TPU inner I can save a lot. Your wheelset is pretty leight, but still will save about 80gr there. Guess ultegra Di2 saves a bit as well.
You have size 54. How tall are you? In doubt between 54 and 52 :)
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Can’t you file down the top side of the C ring to get it to where you want? I had to do that on my gravel bike, takes an hour work over a couple of nights for a perfect fit
You mean the compression ring ?
It is made of plastic and it is the original Specialized one.
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for the upper area it is sufficient to file it evenly and it is solved, the problem is the lower part
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You got this from Taiwan, so not the same frameset from TanTan? so different hardware kit?
From a seller on Aliexpress called Taiwanese, not from Taiwan (unfortunately :D)
I deeply checked the picture from TanTan in Instagram and the frame is exactly the same I got.
Or TanTan is producing and selling to others or TanTan is buying from producers/sellers bu the frame is identical
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for the upper area it is sufficient to file it evenly and it is solved, the problem is the lower part
thanks for your suggestion.
What piece would you file ?
1. the casing of the upper bearing (thinning the carbon part into the frame)
2. the compression ring
3. the first headset spacer
Lower part should be qute easy IMHO:
I am thinking to fine the lower part of the fork tube, making it a little slimmer (0,5mm or less) so the bearing goes down and the gap should be filled.
Would you agree ?
Thanks!
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You have size 54. How tall are you? In doubt between 54 and 52 :)
180 cm
stride length : 83cm
? 30cm
for more details u have to pay ;)
stem length i ordered 100mm ( i dont even know how to measure it)
did not test drive I sat on the bike and it felt sporty
!keep in mind seatpost has MIN and MAX insert i recommend u have to have a look at original sl8 manual!
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2. the compression ring
file the black plastic part, with very fine sandpaper.
be careful not to remove a millimeter at once, but I recommend trying.
lay a sheet of sandpaper on a table and file the entire surface at the same time. the support of the headset cap must remain uniform
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180 cm
stride length : 83cm
? 30cm
for more details u have to pay ;)
stem length i ordered 100mm ( i dont even know how to measure it)
did not test drive I sat on the bike and it felt sporty
!keep in mind seatpost has MIN and MAX insert i recommend u have to have a look at original sl8 manual!
Haha, that's enough details on lenght :D
I'm 178 by the way, so 52 could still be de more agressive/pro option :)
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I’ve taken a few pictures of my bike as a reference. The gaps around the headset look pretty extreme in the photos (angle).
During installation, I didn’t have any issues, especially not with the compression ring (was flat). I tightened the headset bolt very lightly, around 1-2 Nm. The result is that there’s absolutely no play between the frame and fork – I’ve tested it by pulling both brakes and moving the bike back and forth.
The steering also feels smooth and easy, exactly as it should.
Everything "feels" as it should, as if the bike is functioning exactly how it was designed to.
Other forum Photos of Gap Issue i assume this are all original SL8
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172467&start=4740
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172467&start=4770
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I’ve taken a few pictures of my bike as a reference. The gaps around the headset look pretty extreme in the photos (angle).
During installation, I didn’t have any issues, especially not with the compression ring (was flat). I tightened the headset bolt very lightly, around 1-2 Nm. The result is that there’s absolutely no play between the frame and fork – I’ve tested it by pulling both brakes and moving the bike back and forth.
The steering also feels smooth and easy, exactly as it should.
Everything "feels" as it should, as if the bike is functioning exactly how it was designed to.
Hmmm they look ok I will post a few photo of my SL8 today tomorrow in the same area see how they compare
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thanks for your suggestion.
What piece would you file ?
1. the casing of the upper bearing (thinning the carbon part into the frame)
2. the compression ring
3. the first headset spacer
Lower part should be qute easy IMHO:
I am thinking to fine the lower part of the fork tube, making it a little slimmer (0,5mm or less) so the bearing goes down and the gap should be filled.
Would you agree ?
Thanks!
You bought this from Taiwan Eisen off Alie Express? I'd recommend starting a separate post as well so you can tell everyone your experience.
Remember just cause it looks the same doesn't mean it's the same frameset. Tantan's version has larger headset bearings
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Bearings are both 49.5x40.5x6.5 - 45
What are the bearings of TanTan X68 ?
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Bearings are both 49.5x40.5x6.5 - 45
What are the bearings of TanTan X68 ?
Yeah the bearings you listed are the same for the majority of SL8 clones out there.
The Tantan/Seraph X68 and Spcycle R088 versions have 52mm bearings top and bottom.
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Looks like some of you have received your frames. Curious as to how long it took from placing your order to it arriving at your door? I’ve been eagerly waiting nearly 2 months now.
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Ordered one today, Wheeltop with the standard 50mm carbon wheels. $2500 delivered to USA. Not expecting this to be s works level, but in a 49 hope it rides roughly lie a pro/expert level sl8. We'll see.
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Ordered one today, Wheeltop with the standard 50mm carbon wheels. $2500 delivered to USA. Not expecting this to be s works level, but in a 49 hope it rides roughly lie a pro/expert level sl8. We'll see.
Interesting that the WT build is more expensive than the 105 build. Crossing my fingers for you, it looks like a great option!
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... Carbon frames aren't spaceships.
And definitely not submarines.
Sorry couldn't resist. No offense intended.
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Hello guys, i'm about to order this frame but im a bit confused by this thread with regards to other brand frames mentioned. Is this supposed to be better than those other frames mentioned or its the same? I saw some comments here that people think its the same but then there are some differences mentioned like the bearings and so on. I've seen quite a lot of good stuff about tantant but im not sure if this is really from them and im hesitant because of that a bit.
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Hello guys, i'm about to order this frame but im a bit confused by this thread with regards to other brand frames mentioned. Is this supposed to be better than those other frames mentioned or its the same? I saw some comments here that people think its the same but then there are some differences mentioned like the bearings and so on. I've seen quite a lot of good stuff about tantant but im not sure if this is really from them and im hesitant because of that a bit.
It's a different frame, there are lots of similarities though since they are copying the same original design. That other gentleman just posted thinking this was an SL8 fake thread
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Has this test been done with anonymized frames? I rode a friend's bike today that i built for him. It's basically my exact spec, but with a different frame. The fit and coordinates are a bit different, so i'm more comfortable on my bike because it fits me better, but i really dont think i can tell them apart while riding.
There's so much vested interest in maintaining the mystique around high end frames, i really feel that it's largely BS. Carbon frames aren't spaceships.
I'm unaware of anyone thats ridden a real sl8 back to back with a "clone", let alone blind. I don't doubt that there are layup differences between the two, whether they make a difference who knows. There is a fair amount of research that the big brands do on various layups etc., how much of that is an actual factor in real world ridefeel is another matter entirely.
As far as the pricing comments go, its somewhat opaque as mine increased by a couple hundred bucks between initial quote and final quote due to "an error" whatever that means, and i didn't ask for an item by item breakdown. My build was actually around the same price as the 105 build in this thread, but that build had lighter wheels, so i don't really know. I was a little disappointed that tantan couldn't source a Magene pm to swap out for their crank, even if I had to pay full price for the Magene. No powermeter options apparently...didn't ask about shimano's as theirs have such a terrible reputation.
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The assumption to justify part of Specialized's SL8 pricing is that the higher grade carbon they use is stronger, stiffer, while also being lighter than something like T800. And there's consideration to the carbon layout to provide a responsive yet agreeable riding experience.
I would be satisfied with this X68 if at the very least it wasn't a noodle overall to ride. I'm just not sure how TanTan would achieve a decent level of stiffness at the advertised weight and price point. The frame weight similar to the real SL8 Pro.
If TanTan can come even 70% close to the SL8 in terms of riding dynamics (stiff head tube, compliant seat stays and BB, fantastic crosswind stability) then it's probably a solid value. On paper.
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Yes, exactly. I’d actually be happier if it wasn’t overly stiff in a 49. I think one area where the dollars get spent is in different layups for different sizes. I m 60 kg and 5 5 so my concern is probably the opposite of yours and both are valid. But I wasn’t buying a 6k bike anytime soon anyway.
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Soo you wouldn't suggest getting this frame for a heavier rider, i asked tantan on instagram and they respondend that the weight limit is 130kg but i assume thats a default answer for everything :D I'm personally at 98-100kg range so could it be a `noodle` as patliean1 decsribes it?
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Soo you wouldn't suggest getting this frame for a heavier rider, i asked tantan on instagram and they respondend that the weight limit is 130kg but i assume thats a default answer for everything :D I'm personally at 98-100kg range so could it be a `noodle` as patliean1 decsribes it?
I don't think anyone here can answer that question for you since most are lighter and patliean1's comment is supposition.
If Tantan told you that then you should be fine, I don't think they would just make up a number. If you are concerned you should tell them your weight and ask if it will flex a lot or remain stiff.
My boss is 275lbs and rides a carbon (orbea) frame with no issues
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No, agree its not just the materials. Its also in the additional handling and complication of a more detailed layup. More pieces or different fiber and orientation. And also a premium markup. How much to attribute to each factor is highly secretive for obvious reasons.
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I definitely need to do a deep dive research on carbon fiber and educate myself better...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DBkmr8loXYn/?img_index=1
TanTan shows a size 52 matte black weighing 836g. My Tarmac L8 Pro in a size 56 weighs 827g. Now let's say a size 56 TanTan x68 comes in at 900g for comparison sake. How are they able to produce a comparable weight with less fragile (ie: stronger) carbon? And at a $600 price point? Is the difference between a $600 frame versus $3500 all in the marketing, engineering, tooling, staff, and frame size-specific layup?
ICAN's FL1 frame (Aethos lookalike) comes in at 783g unpainted in a size 54. No aero design details so less carbon needed, but obviously the Chinese brands are capable of making lightweight frames. My Winspace SLC3 weighs 829g. I'm just curious why we don't see more of these brands offering deep sub-1000g frames. Most of them seem to fall between 1050g to 1200g.
In the past I've said my theory as to why Chinese frames are heavier is because it's a built-in insurance policy by making the frames, in theory, more robust. But why would they need to do this if an 836g frame is strong enough without cutting corners?
Obviously I like what TanTan is doing by offering such a wide variety of frames across different disciplines. So I'm not trying to scare anyone away from this particular frame. I really want one myself. My curiosity lies in TanTan's ability to offer this frame at such stellar specs and price as a reputable factory. With minimal compromise.
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My SPcycle R088 in size 52cm comes in at less weight at 760g with no metal hardware and about 790g with UDH and FD hanger. Only difference between the R088 and TT-X68 is the lack of the beefier aero-sniffer head tube and they actually added an FD hole for mechanical cabling. SPcycle looks like they opted for their own off-the-shelf fork to accommodate 32c tires. With my climbing wheelset, I've gotten my R088 build down to 6.87kg (cheap 45mm depth aero wheels 7.2kg) and that's without going full weight weenie. I still have lots areas to cut weight on my build and I'm basically running cheap parts (ER9 groupset, Riro crankset, Magene PM, Xpedo pedals). Bike rides fine and I'm packing a ton of holiday winter weight. Plus my riding includes mostly urban climbing, sh**ty roads, yelling at cars, hopping on sidewalks and pot hole ridden descents.
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I
ICAN's FL1 frame (Aethos lookalike) comes in at 783g unpainted in a size 54. No aero design details so less carbon needed, but obviously the Chinese brands are capable of making lightweight frames. My Winspace SLC3 weighs 829g. I'm just curious why we don't see more of these brands offering deep sub-1000g frames. Most of them seem to fall between 1050g to 1200g.
In the past I've said my theory as to why Chinese frames are heavier is because it's a built-in insurance policy by making the frames, in theory, more robust. But why would they need to do this if an 836g frame is strong enough without cutting corners?
Manufacturing technique, largely. One of the benefits of EPS is that its precision results in both a better finish with greater compaction, but also it follows that the precision allows for the end product to have less need for a "safety factor" through overbuilding. The minor weight differences between an actual SL8 and the bikes under discussion are likely down to minor details and even the resin used, along with the fact that all weights are quoted as +/- (tantan says +/- 40g for both frame and fork, so up to 80g variance).
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Should it be a surprise that these manufacturers are able to offer these replica frames at such a low price? We do know that the industry in Xiamen is tight knit. People move from factory to factory so intellectual property can leak, people can be bribed, etc.. If they have the cad files and layup schedule of a particular frameset, I don't think it would be that difficult to offer such as you see now. All that upcharge the big brands levy is to recoup all the sunk costs into research, design and marketing. Those that offer these framesets incur hardly much of that.
I have one of these replicas (not seraph) and I couldn't believe how good they are. I'm 190lbs and have beat the sh*t out of it with zero issues. It's currently cold as heck here but as soon as it warms up, me and my buddy with a real S-works both size 52 will do a test ride. Unfortunately, parts are not identical but I wouldn't be surprised if the ride is very similar.
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I am really interested in purchasing one of these frames.
I will choose the raw finish in size 52.
Considerations:
The raw TAN TAN frame weighs 140 grams more than the original Specialized frame of the same size, and I actually like this.
What I don’t like is the fork, where the TAN TAN component is even 30 grams lighter than the Specialized one.
I would like to ask TAN TAN to confirm the weight.
As for the rest, I am not surprised at all that there is a parallel production of a frame from such a famous brand.
If they managed to acquire the molds, they probably also obtained the entire process for positioning the carbon patches—how much to use and where to place them (perhaps with lower quality materials, but still effective).
What really amazes me is the blatant way in which such an obvious copy is being advertised.
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What I don’t like is the fork, where the TAN TAN component is even 30 grams lighter than the Specialized one.
If they managed to acquire the molds, they probably also obtained the entire process for positioning the carbon patches—how much to use and where to place them (perhaps with lower quality materials, but still effective).
What really amazes me is the blatant way in which such an obvious copy is being advertised.
on the fork, the only thing that comes to mind is Spec product recalls on steerer tubes snapping. So, potentially, they now ask their factories to make walls thicker than market standard?
on layup techniques. I wouldnt buy a clone assuming the layup and / or materials are the same. However, i would assume that factories that OEM for brands (aka, ~ all of them, afaik), learn. You can call it copy, i would say learn. Philosophically, learning is a form of copying. Let's not go there. So, when i buy an open mould from a factory that makes frames for a brand (for eg, when i bought my 268 from Long Teng that makes frames for Argon 18), the LOGICAL thing for them to do is to somehow apply what they learnt in layup techniques working for brands, to the other frames they make.
I learnt math, then applied math at work. I had to do math for a client and refined my math. Then when i get home and have to do math for my own use, i dont suddenly start using beans to count, i still do math. Now replace this with layup, as i dont think you can patent layups, and even if you can, it's impossible to prove that the brand layup would have been "stolen".
And so, as times passes, good factories should be making increasingly good open mould, OEM, and clone frames.
On blatant copies, if it doesnt have a Spec logo on it, if it's not advertised as a spec, either in writing or pictures, then it's arguably not "blatant" that it's a rip off. Legally speaking, showing a logo that's not yours is a no no. But a frame shape? You'd have a lawyer up, and is the speed sniffer a patented design, or just a common sense design? What if something is different by 1mm, does it make it enough to claim it's different? And so on.
China's been playing a game of cat and mouse since the west started having stuff manufactured there. And in a way, it's "just" learning. A telling example of that is the downfall of gopro and the rise of digi drones & insta360 cameras. gopro absolutely failed at both, and both digi & insta360 are chinese brands that now lead the categories with their products, innovation and so on.
And re. bikes, it's the chinese factories that know how to do a layup. The west sends them requests for stiffness, compliance, shapes and so on, but china knows how to layup a frame, not the west, because the people doing the actual layup are chinese. With, ofc, the exception of 3 factories in Europe & the US, but there's an exception to every rule.
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That OEM factories master carbon processing—I agree.
Starting from the idea of offering a good product for $700, what should I do?
Start with elements that are already working and tested by others, minimizing the testing phase as much as possible.
Use raw materials that are not the latest generation (types of carbon and resins). And here’s my question:
Let me use random numbers to explain myself:
For example, Specialized’s SL8 project requires that the frame is composed of 280 pre-cut pieces of a specific shape, placed in a specific position, with a specific thickness, and using a specific type of carbon and resin (and all of this has to be recalculated for each frame size).
If an OEM factory uses different materials to reduce costs, the scheme (the 280 pre-cut pieces) created by the parent company would have to be revised. And this brings us back to the need for expensive tests and prototypes to achieve a good result with inferior materials.
Conclusions:
My reasoning would be:
I am an OEM manufacturer. If I want to create a GOOD product with that design aesthetic but using different materials—and I want to do as little testing and trial-and-error as possible—what do I do?
Example:
The Specialized frame in size 52 weighs 800 grams. I add 80–100 grams more material to mine and achieve the desired result.
The Specialized fork weighs 350 grams. I make mine weigh 380 grams.
Instead, seeing that the Tan Tan fork weighs 30 grams less worries me. I can’t explain it.
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Of course the OEM's learn. That doesn't mean its economically viable to follow a layup schedule. Many of those tiny pieces are there for ride quality etc and aren't necessary to basic function, and the folks building these frames know enough to simplify. Again, who knows whether you can tell in the real world. EPS molding is an example of learning.
Totally agree that a very large part of the savings on these comes from the lack of need to recover sunk development costs. It also comes for having a direct to consumer model. Imagine what Canyon could do if they didn't have to develop anything-you'd have what many of the larger asian brands are doing.
As far as shapes go, no one needs to "steal a mold" - you can scan an actual bike. Then you're not "stealing" anything but the shape, which as pointed out isn't patented, although it may be ip protected in the west in other ways.
As far as fork weights go, the 30g being fretted about is within the tolerance quoted by tantan, and likely Specialized's number is conservative. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Finally received my frame, size 54 in matte black. Can't speak for quality as this is my first brand new disc build, but everything looks the par. I did notice the common fork and headset area gap, as well as a slight gap on the top side, between the spacers and headset.
I'll be posting my build list with weights once the bike is built up, should be pretty close to 6.9kg.
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I decided to order it in the end, will try to post an update when i get the frame and when i build up the bike. Hope that the frame is gonna be fine ;D
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Totally agree that a very large part of the savings on these comes from the lack of need to recover sunk development costs.
I'd also include frames being replaced via warranty claims as part of the price point too.
In my recent video featuring a set of $3000 ENVE SES 4.5 wheels, several ENVE customers mentioned how good ENVE's warranty service is. And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
By this logic if Chinese brands selling $600 frames were to offer a similar warranty/service, frames would probably cost closer $1500-$2000. Makes sense why it's in their best interest to just produce frames as robust as possible even if with a slight weight and ride comfort penalty.
I wonder if Winspace, Tavelo, and SEKA would do the same. Considering their frames cost about the same.
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I'd also include frames being replaced via warranty claims as part of the price point too.
In my recent video featuring a set of $3000 ENVE SES 4.5 wheels, several ENVE customers mentioned how good ENVE's warranty service is. And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
By this logic if Chinese brands selling $600 frames were to offer a similar warranty/service, frames would probably cost closer $1500-$2000. Makes sense why it's in their best interest to just produce frames as robust as possible even if with a slight weight and ride comfort penalty.
I wonder if Winspace, Tavelo, and SEKA would do the same. Considering their frames cost about the same.
I spoke with a winspace authorized dealer in my area before buying my SLC3 to ask about their warranty. He said hes only ever seen a winspace frame once in his life, a t1550 and it didnt need repaired. But he did say he sells a lot of the hyper wheels in store and they are better than most brands with warrantying things when needed, but he hasn't had to warranty many of wheels at all.
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And several viewers also said this is because the company essentially builds into their pricing two "free" replacement set of wheels under warranty, no questions asked, within the first three years of ownership. Basically the customer is paying for 3 sets of ENVE wheels upfront.
I love it, this is absurd, an actuary would laugh at this :D It's a funny way to get to the ludicrous price point though!
But that excess pricing upfront is a key reason why i buy OEM. Once you know the price of things by getting closer to the source, you worry about warranty less, because you know how easy / cheap it is to replace what you break. The caveat to that being: if not planned well, you can find yourself without a bike to ride for weeks. Hence, have lots of bikes in inventory :D
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https://tool.nbchao.com/seka/list/7/
This is the color pallete available for this frameset... It also seems that SEKA is made there too.
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
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https://tool.nbchao.com/seka/list/7/
This is the color pallete available for this frameset... It also seems that SEKA is made there too.
No fancy metallic colors?
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No fancy metallic colors?
I am sure they do, you would just have to look, I am not affiliated with them. Just looking at getting a frame and they sent the link to me
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
Care to share a photo or two? ;D
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Thnx for the detailed listing. Could you share your height and maybe inner leg lenght?
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No fancy metallic colors?
Yes, they have metallics. I went with the stock pearl white but explored other options and tantan send me a number of metallics using the YS paint codes common among Chinese builders.
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I love all the waffle in this forum but has anyone got photos?
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I love all the waffle in this forum but has anyone got photos?
The couple of people that have bought it have posted photos
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Thnx for the detailed listing. Could you share your height and maybe inner leg lenght?
I'm 5'-10" to 5'-11", inner leg length i would say is normal. I've always run size 54 bikes (cervelo, giant, scott), so I'm expecting this to fit similarly. You can use BikeInsights.com to compare frame geometry's. I compared my now old Cervelo R3 to the SL8 (TTX68 is exact same geometry), and found 6mm more reach and 11mm lower stack.
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Cool build for the weight and price - just fire!
Tell about the feel, how well the bike rides, how stiff is the frame? What branded bikes can you compare it to?
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
I'm curious about the seatpost-I'd like a zero offset option, but upthread tantan told someone that an actual sl8 seatpost doesn't swap in...
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I'm 5'-10" to 5'-11", inner leg length i would say is normal. I've always run size 54 bikes (cervelo, giant, scott), so I'm expecting this to fit similarly. You can use BikeInsights.com to compare frame geometry's. I compared my now old Cervelo R3 to the SL8 (TTX68 is exact same geometry), and found 6mm more reach and 11mm lower stack.
Thanks, same length here (but in the normal metric system :P ) Also on 54 on different brands (or S in case of canyon).
I'm also eyeballing a different crank/powermeter. Not sure if everything fits on this frame. Which combi Xcadey/Lexon are you considering als an future update?
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Thanks, same length here (but in the normal metric system :P ) Also on 54 on different brands (or S in case of canyon).
I'm also eyeballing a different crank/powermeter. Not sure if everything fits on this frame. Which combi Xcadey/Lexon are you considering als an future update?
Likely 170 cranks as i have that on all my bikes. Don't see any 5 bolt 130bcd options, so probably going to go with their 4 bolt 110 bcd and their 54/40 chainrings. I'd probably go with the 24mm titanium spindle as well, for compatibility and availability of BB's across the different shell sizes.
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Cool build for the weight and price - just fire!
Tell about the feel, how well the bike rides, how stiff is the frame? What branded bikes can you compare it to?
I won't get a good feel for this frame until spring, as i'm parked on the trainer most of the time. Just spinning it around the neighborhood for 5 minutes, the ride is nice. I'll have a better feel for the ride and stiffness in a few months. I'll be comparing this frameset to a 2014 cervelo r3, winspace t1500 (in progress trainer/ crit bike build), and previous aluminum scott speedster (tractor of a bike compared to the ttx68).
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What's likely to be the better choice, this one or the one from taiwan eisen?
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What's likely to be the better choice, this one or the one from taiwan eisen?
Probably the seraph/Tantan since they are a brick and mortar company that owns their factories
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I suspect they're from the same source. I don't care for taiwaneisen's marketing-everything is a counterfeit branded and they even use a deceptive company name-so I bought from tantan.
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I suspect they're from the same source. I don't care for taiwaneisen's marketing-everything is a counterfeit branded and they even use a deceptive company name-so I bought from tantan.
Maybe, I wonder if they produce their own in house because of the bigger bearings
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Thanks folks!
I'm sold to TanTan, only have to clarify the paint options.
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Not enough photos in here >:(
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Not enough photos in here >:(
Just Google "Tarmac SL8" :D
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YES WE NEED MORE PHOTOS!!!
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Just Google "Tarmac SL8" :D
Haha! I actually laughed out ;D
Okay on that note...I will see my way out.
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Shitttttt, no hole for FD Di2.... Send them a message about it. It's a no-go for me, since I already have the groupset (2x11sp Di2 Ultegra).
Other option is the Speeder 55D, but it's about 350/400 usd more expensive or the Velobuild 268 that is a tiny bit heavier and seems to know some problems....
Hi, have you also looked at the Spcycle SP-R088 frame?
It has identical geometries to the TT-X68/SL8, but changes the shape of the head tube and fork.
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Hi, have you also looked at the Spcycle SP-R088 frame?
It has identical geometries to the TT-X68/SL8, but changes the shape of the head tube and fork.
It has the necessary holes, they sell the complete bike with DI2
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Hi, I'm sending you photos and a video of the tantan sl8
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It has the necessary holes, they sell the complete bike with DI2
Exactly as with the real SL8, the FD cable port is behind the FD hanger
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Hi, I'm sending you photos and a video of the tantan sl8
Thx for sharing your frame
Request Could you Show or Film the Inside of The Frame?
wanted to ask if your or anyone here might be able to show or film the inside of their frame and possibly share a video of it? Ideally, using a camera or phone that can capture the interior details.
Unfortunately, I missed the chance to do this with my own frame because it was already fully assembled, and I didn’t have the tools to open it up. I’m really curious to see what it looks like inside—whether it’s to check the build quality, cable routing, or just out of general interest.
If anyone could share this, I’d be really grateful! It might even be helpful for others who are wondering the same.
The only source we have is this video and but unfortunately, the details are quite minimal and don’t give a clear picture of everything I’m curious about.
-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mO_n91GjKA-
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What are the torques wrench for front and rear carbon rail saddle ?
Thanks.
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What are the torques wrench for front and rear carbon rail saddle ?
Thanks.
these infos are from vivian tantan,
all Numbers in Nm
Seatpost 8-10
Bottlecage 4
Brake calipers : tantan dont have info also spcialized doesnt have on their manuual , i recommend u to go with 4 - 6
Handlebar 6-8
Fork Expander 8-10
Through Axle 12-13
Saddle both front and rear 8-10
UDH/SchaltWer 4,5
headset bolt screw : also no official info it is about - 1- 2 Nm till u have no play betewen fork and frame
beaware torque charts are little different from original sl8 page
example fork expander sl8 original is 5 NM
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Hey guys, I'm sourcing everything I need to build the bike.
I have a question regarding the rear caliper adapter for the 160mm rotor. What length bolts are needed for it?
Also, those of you who built it up already, were you missing anything from the accessories that came with the frame? I'd like to have everything on hand when the frame comes.
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Hi,
Almost completed my SL8 from Taian Eisen.
Size 56, 6.8Kg without chain, handlebar tape and pedals.
I have not ridden it so far.
It’s not Seraph/TanTan, do you want to open a separate topic ?
Ciao
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Hi,
Almost completed my SL8 from Taian Eisen.
Size 56, 6.8Kg without chain, handlebar tape and pedals.
I have not ridden it so far.
It’s not Seraph/TanTan, do you want to open a separate topic ?
Ciao
Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
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Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
I would bet on it that it's the same frame. I'm rating seraph/tantan and airwolf in a seperate category.
I've build alot of frames and some counterfeits I can't tell the difference.
Nothing like Elves, Winspace, Yishun, etc..
Quality wise I've seen counterfeit frames on par with the above brands and I've experienced a level below to.
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Given the popularity of the SL8, feel free to start a Taiwan Eisen LS8 thread, nobody will get upset. The thread we're in does say Seraph specifically. So you decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, but asked not to get the fake branding? Will be curious to read about your thought process & your experience with the order process & ride.
At the end I decided to go with an overt seller of fakes, first time after 12y of buying chinese “no fake” frames and components (mtb and road).
I have asked carbon matte finiture because I like the “Batman” style and I am not interested in appearing as an “S-Works” owner.
Moreover in this way I avoid any issue with the Financial Guard.
Btw It’s now 10y since I am riding also branded bike like a S-Works SL3 or Scott Spark.
Experience with Taiwan Eisen: great.
Availability and comms are TOP.
I have no experience in case of issues, fingers crossed.
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For the sake of clarity and for the benefit of our discussions, let me share the reasons that lead me to buy a counterfeit - despite I was not and I am not in favor of this - are:
- weight: the frame weights only 835gr size56, seat post (long) is 173gr and fork is 312gr (uncut).
To be honest, the weight of the fork does not make me so confident (even lighter than the original) but I will try step by step, testing on gravel roads at low speed at the beginning and then on faster descends.
There are very few chinese frames with these weights at 600/700usd.
- the frame/fork shape: it is extremely similar to the original one and this grants that the great aerodynamic features - on the chart and so well advertised from Specialized - are "scientifically" proven or at least comparable to the original frame.
Chinese frames "no counterfeit" do not have this kind of studies/test behind.
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MTB…tell us about your build? Brand and parts used if you don’t mind?
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For the sake of clarity and for the benefit of our discussions, let me share the reasons that lead me to buy a counterfeit - despite I was not and I am not in favor of this - are:
- weight: the frame weights only 835gr size56, seat post (long) is 173gr and fork is 312gr (uncut).
To be honest, the weight of the fork does not make me so confident (even lighter than the original) but I will try step by step, testing on gravel roads at low speed at the beginning and then on faster descends.
There are very few chinese frames with these weights at 600/700usd.
- the frame/fork shape: it is extremely similar to the original one and this grants that the great aerodynamic features - on the chart and so well advertised from Specialized - are "scientifically" proven or at least comparable to the original frame.
Chinese frames "no counterfeit" do not have this kind of studies/test behind.
do you have photos of the inside of the frame?
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Here you go
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Up to the head tube and fork, my SPcycle R088 is exactly the same frame. Are these just coming out of the same factory or does everyone have the molds for this design?
I've been riding the crap out of my R088, with no issues. It's a good frame. I'd probably do the same and get this clone minus the fake branding.
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When I get my frame from Tantan (hopefully at the end of February), I'll post some pictures taken inside the frame with an endoscope camera.
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Seems like quite a few people have received their frames by now. Is there no one who has taken it out for a first spin to give us their impression ride quality-wise?
Im pretty keen to order one for myself – currently on the fence between a Tavelo Arow and this one. But i won't be able to decide between the two without having heard any kind of review other than for build quality.
You lovely people, dress up and take it for a spin! Pwease! :D
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Up to the head tube and fork, my SPcycle R088 is exactly the same frame. Are these just coming out of the same factory or does everyone have the molds for this design?
I've been riding the crap out of my R088, with no issues. It's a good frame. I'd probably do the same and get this clone minus the fake branding.
Are you saying that if you could go back, you would buy the clone proposed by Seraph (or another store) instead of the Spcycle R088?
If you want a clone of the SL8, wouldn't it be better to buy Seraph instead of another shop?
My opinion is that the clones don't all come from the same factory/mold....Seraph and Airwolf are the only clones to have the 52mm headset (I don't consider Spcycle since the head tube and fork have a different shape) .
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
I wouldn't care, like with clothes, I don't have to wear Gucci to feel good
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I wouldn't care, like with clothes, I don't have to wear Gucci to feel good
That's not my point... would you wear (obviously) fake Gucci to an evening with a lot of people wearing real Gucci??
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So none of you would be embarrassed riding this on a group ride when you are surrounded by real SL8's?
I have no problem riding cheap chiner frames, because for me it's the sensible thing to do with my budget... But I just would not feel good riding a fake on my weekly rides with the club...
I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
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I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
Yeah, the headtube is just so distinct... It's so obvious...
I have nothing against this frame, and if I would live alone on an island and never do events or group rides, I would have no problem riding it...
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If you want a clone of the SL8, wouldn't it be better to buy Seraph instead of another shop?
I just went with the R088 because it had the features I wanted and was cheaper to buy at the time. Though these SL8 clones don't look that bad to me, I'd consider getting one minus any fake branding. To me these SL8 clones remind me of the Aethos clones on the market. I think the vendors have the build process figured out, especially since they're not trying to build them to the low weight specs of an S-Works SL8.
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I'll tell you that I think quite like you...even without logos or with the Seraph logo, not much would change, so I would probably opt for the Spcycle R088 frame which differs in terms of head tube and fork.
Isn't that just pretty much a 1:1 copy of the SL7?
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Here is my personal longwinded take. Anecdotally speaking of course 8)
-I stand by my viewpoint we each should spend on whatever inspires us to play bikes more often. While also understanding that our purchases neither makes us more or less virtuous than the next individual.
-Personally speaking, I have yet to find the value of blatantly counterfeit/unauthorized frames if I have to invest my own funds. Of course if one of these companies wants to work with me for a review I would probably reconsider. But there are just too many great Chiner frames on the market now.
-So I live Chicago with multiple groups rides on offer every day of the week in the warmer months. Yet 95% of my rides are solo. I started in cycling riding nothing but Chinese frames in a sea of Specialized and Treks so I don't need the validation of others. I still do most rides on Chiner bikes today. But most importantly...I think the majority of group rides are a complete waste of time. Especially if you treat cycling as a means to gain fitness rather a social activity.
-I wouldn't cast judgement on anyone riding a fake frame to a group ride. In fact, arguably one of the strongest racers in Chicago who competes against national level talent rides a counterfeit frame. Authentic wheels and cockpit however. But I assure you no one takes issue with it.
-My one true critique against fake frames, and it's completely superficial, is seeing customers put budget components and wheels on a frame "intended" for mid-to-high end Sram/Shimano/Campy. I think I once seen a fake S-Work SL7 with MECHANICAL LTwoo groupset and Elite Edge wheels. It made me wanna puke. Yeah I know I'll get flamed for saying that.
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I just went with the R088 because it had the features I wanted and was cheaper to buy at the time. Though these SL8 clones don't look that bad to me, I'd consider getting one minus any fake branding.
I also like the frame and, from what I understand, Seraph is reliable as a manufacturer/seller....but from my point of view, even without the Specialized logo, the frame is still an obvious copy of something else (even applying the Seraph logo).
To me these SL8 clones remind me of the Aethos clones on the market.
Can you explain?
I think the vendors have the build process figured out, especially since they're not trying to build them to the low weight specs of an S-Works SL8.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure I understand...I seem to understand that in several cases the weights are even lower, or am I wrong?
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Isn't that just pretty much a 1:1 copy of the SL7?
No, the SL7 has a different shaped dropper, seat tube and head tube top.
The Spcycle R088 frame resembles the SL8, but with a different head tube and fork, and for this reason it cannot be considered a 1:1 copy
(http://)
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-My one true critique against fake frames, and it's completely superficial, is seeing customers put budget components and wheels on a frame "intended" for mid-to-high end Sram/Shimano/Campy. I think I once seen a fake S-Work SL7 with MECHANICAL LTwoo groupset and Elite Edge wheels. It made me wanna puke. Yeah I know I'll get flamed for saying that.
I completely agree with you on the superficial part. Most people just do this because the frame looks good. However, under the hood, they know what they have even if the others don't know it. So how do these people feel it's up to each (no judgements as long as they don't try to cheat other people).
On the other hand, I think that cheap mechanical parts and wheels are actually more suitable than higher end stuff. If you got to do it, do it right. One want to build it cheap, then build it cheap eheheh :)
I'd not buy nor build my clients fakes simply because I think there are some other great options out there. But if I would, I'd do it for the sake of money of course, and would try actually to fit it with cheaper components.
I think most of us here could actually buy a proper SL8 or similar. We just like this "puzzle" game so much, and try to optimize here and there, have more bikes etc, that we end up sometimes losing ourselves in this :) After all, this is the spirit of this community
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Hello!
I'm new to the "directly from china"-scene (also cycling in general) so please excuse me if I ask stupid questions/don't have all the information.
I've been looking at this frame because it's been scientifically aero tested (by specialized), right? This combined with the weight is why I thought this was a good frame, I don't care about the brand and I don't really care if people judge me for riding a fake. Also watched Pat's and other's videos on the sl8 and it seems pretty good. Like some others have said in this thread, if this frame rides even just 70% of the real deal then that's more than enough for me.
-Personally speaking, I have yet to find the value of blatantly counterfeit/unauthorized frames if I have to invest my own funds. Of course if one of these companies wants to work with me for a review I would probably reconsider. But there are just too many great Chiner frames on the market now.
I'd not buy nor build my clients fakes simply because I think there are some other great options out there. But if I would, I'd do it for the sake of money of course, and would try actually to fit it with cheaper components.
I think most of us here could actually buy a proper SL8 or similar. We just like this "puzzle" game so much, and try to optimize here and there, have more bikes etc, that we end up sometimes losing ourselves in this :) After all, this is the spirit of this community
Could you guys recommend some other good frames? I'm not hell bent on this one but from what I've seen it looked like it had all the things I was looking for. I can definitely not afford the real deal.
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I also like the frame and, from what I understand, Seraph is reliable as a manufacturer/seller....but from my point of view, even without the Specialized logo, the frame is still an obvious copy of something else (even applying the Seraph logo).
I think it just comes down to buying from a reliable vendor. If Tan Tan offers customer service support, then I wouldn't have an issue. It looks like even the fakes are probably EPS molded and there are lots of accessories on AliEx for the SL8. Plus not all of us ride with the bourgeoisie cycling crowd. I don't think anyone would bat an eye towards an unlabeled SL8 copy in my area.
Can you explain?
There are so many Aethos clones floating around from Bigrock, ICAN, Onirii and reliability on those frames seem to be solid. They're not as light as a genuine S-Works Aethos (maybe the Bigrock), but most these Aethos copies seem to ride just fine.
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure I understand...I seem to understand that in several cases the weights are even lower, or am I wrong?
An S-Works SL8 in size 56 is like 680g. The regular SL8 is 780g. These SL8 clones are like 800g plus at similar sizes. My R088 is 790g with RD/FD and cage bolts, but that frame doesn't have the speed sniffer head tube.
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That actually makes a lot of sense. I'm not a fan of the looks of the SL8, but if i did, if i got to trust the seller of fake, i would probably get one for the same reasons. the aero testing is a strong argument. Likewise, i wouldnt get the fake branding. I'd probably troll and put an ASS-WORKS decal or something like that, to make it very clear it's not a Spec.
I would ride an ASS-WORKS surrounded by S-WORKS, just to troll my friends. But i wouldn't buy a S-WORKS branded fake S-WORKS, because it's illegal, cringe, and i'd rather troll than be a poser. Also, i can afford an S-WORKS, and can confidently say i'll never buy one, out of principle. I know too well the factory prices to pay such a premium for a bike frame.
I agree with what you say, but I think the line between troll and poser might not be so clear....in the eyes of other people they might appear the same.
In fact, anyone who buys a copy frame (even without the S-Works or Specialized logo) could be considered a poser, especially when the shape of the frame clearly recalls the original (see Tarmac SL8, Supersix or Madone)....and probably in most cases this is the reality.
For this reason, even if I like the Seraph X68 (obviously, I like the SL8), I think I won't buy it...at least that's my opinion today.
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Here you have photos of the assembly of the Tantan SL8. I will send more photos soon.
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More
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I mean if you're buying for aero, you really shouldn't be going for a tarmac
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More
Can you give us the specs of your build? more importantly the total weight?
great looking bike dude!
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Ultegra di2 12v groupset, wheels with Yishun rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes and Goldix 180 hubs. Galfer Weave 140 rear 160 front discs. Bontrager Mostrose saddle, Rockbros handlebar tape, Continental Grandsport tires with Ridenow lightweight tubes, carbon bottle cages from AliExpress. I think that's it. I haven't weighed it yet. When I weigh it, I'll put it here.
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I mean if you're buying for aero, you really shouldn't be going for a tarmac
Well Tarmac is supposed to be a do-it-all. It has some aero optimizations, but it's also very lightweight, etc. The "speed sniffer" on its own probably is more of a marketing gimmick still.
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I finished building the TT-X68 already two weeks ago, but it was very busy, so here is my update.
Carbon quality seems really good. I had zero issues with sharp edges or anything similar. The areas for the break mounts were all sanded down really well and also with the BB and the headset I had zero play/issues. The paint quality is so far superb and I'm more than happy TanTan changed there mind on the color customization of this frame.
I use a full Ultegra DI2 Groupset incl. 160mm discs front/rear, except for the crankset. As most of you can tell, I'm using a Magene PES505 in 165mm. In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g. The bottle cages are still in transit, but they will add only about 25g. It's a Size 52.
For my first chinese frame experience, this was quite a good one ;)
The only thing I do not recommend is the computer mount. I think the angle of this is too steep, but I already found an alternative.
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Very nice green! Did you pay for the paint job / did you get a discount because you're putting their brand & model number? If not, why use their brand and model number?
Why not put it on there? Not everyone wants to invent a fake brand to put on their bike... At least they don't charge you extra for their brand name like big brands do :D
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In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g.
Looks great! With some lighter wheels you could easily get below 6.8kg ;D
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Very nice green! Did you pay for the paint job / did you get a discount because you're putting their brand & model number? If not, why use their brand and model number?
I had to pay for the paint job 150$ in total. But I had several designs in mind, but at the end wanted just something easy on the eye (at least to my eyes). The green came out exactly as I wanted it, with beautiful metallic flics in it. It's a green tone I saw on an Aston Martin DBX here at an Aston Martin Dealership in my neighborhood. For the the brand and model-number I just had no creativity at all ;D
Looks great! With some lighter wheels you could easily get below 6.8kg ;D
Thanks, that gives me the chance to upgrade in the future ;D
I'm far from being a pro, just started 2 years ago with roadbikes. I guess I will starting saving body weight first ;D
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I finished building the TT-X68 already two weeks ago, but it was very busy, so here is my update.
Carbon quality seems really good. I had zero issues with sharp edges or anything similar. The areas for the break mounts were all sanded down really well and also with the BB and the headset I had zero play/issues. The paint quality is so far superb and I'm more than happy TanTan changed there mind on the color customization of this frame.
I use a full Ultegra DI2 Groupset incl. 160mm discs front/rear, except for the crankset. As most of you can tell, I'm using a Magene PES505 in 165mm. In combination with my Novatec R4, some RideNow TPU Tubes and the Pirelli Tires the whole bike is 7152 g. The bottle cages are still in transit, but they will add only about 25g. It's a Size 52.
For my first chinese frame experience, this was quite a good one ;)
The only thing I do not recommend is the computer mount. I think the angle of this is too steep, but I already found an alternative.
Very nice shade of green!
I'm not crazy about the yellow of the brand/model and logo....I would have chosen another color to match the green.
But did you choose the color yellow? Your same color is available on the Seraph website...
Are the brand/model/logo stickers above or below the clear paint?
Could you post a front view photo from which you can see the Seraph logo?
Thank you!
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The yellow is actually a "greenish" color as well. The main color is metallic, the logos are matte. Everything is clear coated. Yeah, they just liked my design that much, they just putted it on their website (without even asking). That was not cool and it seems they often do it.
I took their logo and modified it, the way I wanted it to be :D
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Looks great.
Just got an email that mine is "arranged", assume that means parts are gathered. So now we're in a race with the tariff pause.
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The yellow is actually a "greenish" color as well. The main color is metallic, the logos are matte. Everything is clear coated. Yeah, they just liked my design that much, they just putted it on their website (without even asking). That was not cool and it seems they often do it.
I took their logo and modified it, the way I wanted it to be :D
We await your first impressions on the road ;)
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We await your first impressions on the road ;)
So far so good. I did not die due to this chinese frame nor was there any kind of technical failure (yet) :D
To be honest, I can only compare it to my Votec VRC Pro and the TanTan is sooooo much more agile, direct and fast. In direct comparison with the Votec you don't need any effort to get it going. However, this was just the first impression and the weather in Germany is not yet ideal for longer rides. But I'll keep you posted :)
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So far so good. I did not die due to this chinese frame nor was there any kind of technical failure (yet) :D
To be honest, I can only compare it to my Votec VRC Pro and the TanTan is sooooo much more agile, direct and fast. In direct comparison with the Votec you don't need any effort to get it going. However, this was just the first impression and the weather in Germany is not yet ideal for longer rides. But I'll keep you posted :)
Are you living near cologne by any chance? Would love to see the x68 in person, before pulling the trigger :)
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My bet would be Recklinghausen,
A new listing for a VOTEC VRC Pro on Buycycle from there...
I see u robin :-* :-*
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Nope, Stuttgart-Area. I took the parts of my Votec and put them on the new bike. The Votec was transfered to some kind of speed gravel bike :)
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
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I took a risk and did the f/f thing on paypal. I've used wise in the past as well.
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How much is the frame total? A 5% fee for peace of mind is worth it. There are way too many things that can go wrong to chance using F/F Paypal.
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
I'd suggest first of all to try to get 2 frames at the same time. It's usually easy to get that. Either neighbours or friends or someone from the forum which lives next to u
I pay via PayPal but I use my bank conversion fee. U can use revolut or wise.
5% depends on your risk apetite
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I'd suggest first of all to try to get 2 frames at the same time. It's usually easy to get that. Either neighbours or friends or someone from the forum which lives next to u
I pay via PayPal but I use my bank conversion fee. U can use revolut or wise.
5% depends on your risk apetite
Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
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My frame ended up being 871USD with a custom paint, shipping to the EU and customs duties already in that price. I used paypall payment with that 5% "safety" fee.
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I took a risk and did the f/f thing on paypal. I've used wise in the past as well.
I prefer to have the safe way.
Why do you prefer paypal f/f instead of wise?
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No real reason, there's no buyer protection thru wise anyway, and the times I've used it it was a bit more cumbersome than pp.
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Ultegra di2 12v groupset, wheels with Yishun rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes and Goldix 180 hubs. Galfer Weave 140 rear 160 front discs. Bontrager Mostrose saddle, Rockbros handlebar tape, Continental Grandsport tires with Ridenow lightweight tubes, carbon bottle cages from AliExpress. I think that's it. I haven't weighed it yet. When I weigh it, I'll put it here.
Silly question-when you built this, were you able to use the standard Shimano 160 adaptor or was there a unique one shipped with the frame? I ask b/c the actual sl8 has unique spacing on the fork that requires a unique adaptor. Just trying to determine whether its a difference or not.
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Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
I‘m also real interested to buy this frame from TanTan - so splitting shipping costs would be a good Option. I planned to give the order at the end of february or start of march!
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Buying 2 frames sounds very good, but I don`t know anybody who is interest to build a racebike.
But if anyone in D/AT is planning to buy this frame and would like to split shipping and payment, please let me know.
Chances are the frames are going to be shipped in 2 boxes so you will still have to pay shipping 2 times... And 5% paypall fees means those will also simply double if you order 2 frames.
So this might not be worth the trouble...
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Silly question-when you built this, were you able to use the standard Shimano 160 adaptor or was there a unique one shipped with the frame? I ask b/c the actual sl8 has unique spacing on the fork that requires a unique adaptor. Just trying to determine whether its a difference or not.
There is an adapter included and it has the same looks as the one on the Tarmac. I couldn't use the standard Shimano one, but maybe I was just to silly :D
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I‘m also real interested to buy this frame from TanTan - so splitting shipping costs would be a good Option. I planned to give the order at the end of february or start of march!
But you should keep in mind that if you buy 2 frames, once for yourself and once for a "friend", if there is a problem with the friend's frame, the complaint must go through the buyer...
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Chances are the frames are going to be shipped in 2 boxes so you will still have to pay shipping 2 times... And 5% paypall fees means those will also simply double if you order 2 frames.
So this might not be worth the trouble...
Not from my experience. Usually they bring up to 2 frames per box. Price is not broken in half but more than covers all those fees
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Not from my experience. Usually they bring up to 2 frames per box. Price is not broken in half but more than covers all those fees
in my experience, buying 2 frames, they use only one box (bigger), but the shipping price is adjusted to the volume of the bigger box and the greater weight ... there is still a saving in costs
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There is an adapter included and it has the same looks as the one on the Tarmac. I couldn't use the standard Shimano one, but maybe I was just to silly :D
Thanks, no that makes sense. Its not off by much. Its mostly relevant only if you want to go Campy calipers as their 160 front caliper doesn't use an adapter and won't fit. I've got wheeltop group coming and their calipers are "ok" but everyone raves about Campy feel. Solution is to use a rear caliper and the spec adapter...
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Hi Guys,
as I feel that all the frames I like can't be sent to Germany, I'm thinking of buying the SL8 clone. I'm still unsure about the size and don't know which one fits better. Is there perhaps someone here who has similar measurements? I am 173cm tall and have an inseam of 78cm.
I'm currently riding an old CAAD5 frame in 54 (see attachment). A really great frame. Unfortunately, it's too big. I feel a bit like I'm "sliding forward" on the saddle. The frame has a reach of 396, the top tube is 545, my stem is 90 and the handlebars have a reach of 70.
For the SL8 Clone I'm thinking of size 52 with a 90 / 100 stem or 49 with a longer stem. If anyone has roughly the same dimensions and gets on well with a particular setup (even with other frames), I would be happy to get some advices.
Alternatively, I'm also considering whether the XMC CS-R01 would be better due to its more relaxed geometry. However, I am physically fit enough to ride a sporty geometry.
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Specialized has a fit tool on their website that works pretty well. If you fall between sizes I'd likely size up if you want comfort, sizing down leads to a greater saddle to bar drop.
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Specialized has a fit tool on their website that works pretty well. If you fall between sizes I'd likely size up if you want comfort, sizing down leads to a greater saddle to bar drop.
I have done the calculation on the Specialized site in the past, and the size they advised would be way to big for me. So you better not just trust that advise.
You can compare the dimensions of your old frame to an SL8 on the different geometry site you can find online and go from there.
I am 172 / 82 cm and would definitely not go bigger than a 52.
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Nope, Stuttgart-Area. I took the parts of my Votec and put them on the new bike. The Votec was transfered to some kind of speed gravel bike :)
Hey, Can you please tell me the total cost to EU? Any taxes? Thanks!
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For the SL8 Clone I'm thinking of size 52 with a 90 / 100 stem or 49 with a longer stem. If anyone has roughly the same dimensions and gets on well with a particular setup (even with other frames), I would be happy to get some advices.
I'm the same height as you at 173cm. I would go with a 52cm frame. My TFSA SL6 clone and my R088 SL8 clone follow the same Tarmac geometry and both my frames are 52cm. You could probably go 49cm if you want a more racier/stiffer setup. My TFSA frame has a slammed stem, while my R088 setup is a bit more relaxed. I'm using both 90mm stems, but I could probably go 100-110mm if I wanted to be ultra aggressive with my fit.
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Hey, Can you please tell me the total cost to EU? Any taxes? Thanks!
Shipping to Germany: 150USD. Tax included, door to door service.
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Yeah the Specialized fitting calculator can’t be accurate. I am 183.9 with a 89,5 inseam and it wants me to go size 61. The biggest size they got lol
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Yeah the Specialized fitting calculator can’t be accurate. I am 183.9 with a 89,5 inseam and it wants me to go size 61. The biggest size they got lol
Well I’m 178cm and my SL8 is a 54cm
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in my experience, buying 2 frames, they use only one box (bigger), but the shipping price is adjusted to the volume of the bigger box and the greater weight ... there is still a saving in costs
I got an update from TanTan, they can ship 2 frames in one box. shipping costs change from 150$ to 200$. All in all a saving of 53$ per frame
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Hello, I am in NL in the Eindhoven area, I may be interested on 1 frame...
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Hello, I am in NL in the Eindhoven area, I may be interested on 1 frame...
Nijmegen here, almost ready to order :) What are you going for (which size and design)?
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Well Tan Tan have confirmed to me that they actually manufacture this frame
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Can someone please enlighten me? If I want to paint the frame myself and need the visible carbon as a basis for the paint scheme, what do I order? Is UD matte the right one? Can you see the carbon here? Or do you need "raw carbon"? Unfortunately, I don't understand the differences. Is the "UD matte" selection just a transparent primer over the carbon?
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Can't speak to tantan particularly, but generally UD matte has a matte clearcoat, raw carbon is just that.
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Hi all, wanted to share I placed an order through Tan-Tan for a size 56 frame in the raw glossy finish. Excited to see how this will look, and I will share my build as it progresses. Building it up with the new SRAM red groupset so hoping for a sub 7kg build. Cheers!
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Well Tan Tan have confirmed to me that they actually manufacture this frame
Interestingly, Seraph's page now says "made in Tantan" as well...
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
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I'm curious how these different manufacturers source the same frames if it's not coming from a single factory? Did they get the actual molds, 3D scanned a frame or built a mold from scratch using the CAD files?
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
Your saddle doesnt have a cut out? You could buy/ make a super short allen key. They make stubby allen sockets, but that also might be too big.
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Thank you!
Nothe saddle does not have a cut out.
I will check if I can find an allen key super short
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Interestingly, Seraph's page now says "made in Tantan" as well...
seraph is tantan's brand
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Of course. But they didn't acknowledge manufacturing of the frame in house until recently. A month ago they were giving people answers like "that's confidential". Not that it matters in the end, other than they do a generally decent job with their stuff.
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Hi all,
How the hell do you adjust the saddle inclination on this seat tube when the saddle does not have the hole ?
I cannot strenghthen the anterior bolt.
This kind of seatpost is the same on TanTan and Taiwaneisen and identical to SL8.
Thanks!
Here's a video on how to do it on a real SL8. Not sure if you have the same bolts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s)
Maybe my link won't show up. Here's what to add after youtube dot com: /watch?v=Gr57XWk4FBY&t=592s
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How lo
Hi all, wanted to share I placed an order through Tan-Tan for a size 56 frame in the raw glossy finish. Excited to see how this will look, and I will share my build as it progresses. Building it up with the new SRAM red groupset so hoping for a sub 7kg build. Cheers!
Do you know, when the expected shipping date of your new frame is? Or how long Seraph need, to paint your frame in raw glossy?
Can‘t wait to see the result, through I had the same idea ;-)
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How lo
Do you know, when the expected shipping date of your new frame is? Or how long Seraph need, to paint your frame in raw glossy?
Can‘t wait to see the result, through I had the same idea ;-)
Hey, they quoted me 30-45 days for delivery. I’ll see if they can send me photos before shipping.
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Tantan wrote to me "frame have stock raw finish . usually 10 days arrange shipping . shipping time about 15-25 days ."
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Nijmegen here, almost ready to order :) What are you going for (which size and design)?
I am not sure if the spcycle R088 will be a better fit, I am still using a Sensah Empire and the only electrical groupsets is a bit of a turnoff. I am looking into a Bianchi sort of blue with white accents
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
5/5 still alive
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Thank you!
Nothe saddle does not have a cut out.
I will check if I can find an allen key super short
Or replace the bolt with a hex bolt and tighten it with a spanner.
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Or replace the bolt with a hex bolt and tighten it with a spanner.
That makes the most sense. I have a topper that is set up that way from factory for that reason.
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I'm about to order to Germany (Munich).
In case someone wants to pair up to split shipping fees, feel free to contact me.
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First decent workout with the fake SL8 from Taiwaneisen.
My weight is 65kg and FTP at 220watt. Wheels Yoeleo 50mm, tubeless 28mm, 4bar.
- the riding is “smooth”: after 35km/h you can easily observe the bike “sailing”, it keeps the speed with minimum power.
This is even more visible when you ride into a group of cyclists at 35km/h or more or when you follow the draft of a car passing you
- the frame is quite stiff expecially in the seatpost area: you can clearly feel in the back while the fork and the front part of the frame is quite comfortable
- I was worried about the stiffness of the fork as it weights even less than the original. I tested in a 3km discend and it is good
So far so good
I recommend putting this somewhere else, like I said before. This is not the same bike or frame.
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I'm about to order to Germany (Munich).
In case someone wants to pair up to split shipping fees, feel free to contact me.
I am up near Frankfurt. Just getting a frame or complete?
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I recommend putting this somewhere else, like I said before. This is not the same bike or frame.
Instead of acting as a moderator, please, buy a frame, mount components, ride and test it, post some photos and share your feedback.
The frame are the same, TanTan has just changed the headset, is it so difficult to understand ?
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Instead of acting as a moderator, please, buy a frame, mount components, ride and test it, post some photos and share your feedback.
The frame are the same, TanTan has just changed the headset, is it so difficult to understand ?
So it isn't the same then. This thread is specifically for "the same frame" from tantan/seraph.
There are other generic SL8 threads and as a bonus it won't confuse people.
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The frames might use the same mold, but they are not the same. They aren't even the same if they are in fact produced in the same factory. Finish, accessories and most importantly QC can be quite a bit different. TanTan has a reputation to lose, after all.
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I am up near Frankfurt. Just getting a frame or complete?
Me too ;D how do you say Westerwald in English?
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The frames might use the same mold, but they are not the same. They aren't even the same if they are in fact produced in the same factory. Finish, accessories and most importantly QC can be quite a bit different. TanTan has a reputation to lose, after all.
Thankyou, all of this!
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I’ve been following this thread with great interest, and as an owner of a genuine S-Works SL8, I have to admit that the price of these counterfeit frames is tempting. However, at the end of the day, it's still a counterfeit. I recently watched the GCN video on YouTube about fake products, where they spoke with the person at Specialized who handles counterfeit goods. After that, it really made buying one a hard "no" for me.
I get that bike prices are now ridiculously high, and honestly, if I could ride a motorbike, I could get a Ducati for the same price! But if we keep buying into this, the prices will just keep climbing. We've already seen Chinese brands slowly following suit, and it won't be long before we're looking at £3k Chinese frames or even £1,500 open molds.
You can try to justify it, but these counterfeit manufacturers are driven by one thing only: money. They have little to no regard for warranties (which are often just a marketing tool), poor customer service, or rider safety. If you have an accident on one of these bikes and something fails, good luck getting any kind of support. At least with real brands, there’s some accountability.
Additionally, these manufacturers often support poor working conditions, and in some cases, possibly even underage labor. These companies can be unscrupulous.
If you're after quality, you're probably better off going with reputable Chinese brands or considering open molds.
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I’ve been following this thread with great interest, and as an owner of a genuine S-Works SL8, I have to admit that the price of these counterfeit frames is tempting. However, at the end of the day, it's still a counterfeit. I recently watched the GCN video on YouTube about fake products, where they spoke with the person at Specialized who handles counterfeit goods. After that, it really made buying one a hard "no" for me.
I get that bike prices are now ridiculously high, and honestly, if I could ride a motorbike, I could get a Ducati for the same price! But if we keep buying into this, the prices will just keep climbing. We've already seen Chinese brands slowly following suit, and it won't be long before we're looking at £3k Chinese frames or even £1,500 open molds.
You can try to justify it, but these counterfeit manufacturers are driven by one thing only: money. They have little to no regard for warranties (which are often just a marketing tool), poor customer service, or rider safety. If you have an accident on one of these bikes and something fails, good luck getting any kind of support. At least with real brands, there’s some accountability.
Additionally, these manufacturers often support poor working conditions, and in some cases, possibly even underage labor. These companies can be unscrupulous.
If you're after quality, you're probably better off going with reputable Chinese brands or considering open molds.
How many no brand frames have you owned and used?
Which supplier did you buy from?
How did you choose the supplier?
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized?
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Hello everyone. First of all, the X68 that I have assembled for my friend in size 52 without pedals has weighed 7.2kg with 50 profile rims and mounted on Ultegra Di2. The saddle is a Bontrager (quite heavy). After the first rides, my friend is delighted with the behaviour of the bike. It feels rigid and fast on the flat and quite comfortable and safe on the descents. I will soon send more photos and the list of costs for the assembly in general.
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
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Pretty disappointed with my order at Seraph right now.
Ordered just before Christmas and they said, the frame would be sent before CNY. Then they said it'll take til mid of february and i am still waiting for the confirmation that the frame is sent
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Pretty disappointed with my order at Seraph right now.
Ordered just before Christmas and they said, the frame would be sent before CNY. Then they said it'll take til mid of february and i am still waiting for the confirmation that the frame is sent
Yeah, my complete build was paid for on 1/29 but nothing yet. Looks like its going to be at least 60 days from order to delivery.
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Hi there,
wanted to give a short update on the bike. Riding quality is great, as I said before it is a whole different story to a Votec VRC Pro. If it is anywhere near an S-Works I can't tell. However, I'm more than happy.
Couple of things I want to mention:
1. The rear bolt on the seat post was mounted incorrectly from factory and on the pictures of TanTan. Please mount it the way Specialized is telling you in there manual for the SL8. 3nm on the Front bolt and 6nm at the rear bolt.
2. Save your money and don't buy the computer mount from TanTan. The computer mount is cheap ABS plastic and the angle is not good. It's to steep! I got this one instead:https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808076328828.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.3b825c5fNkqyhL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808076328828.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.3b825c5fNkqyhL&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt)
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
By your logic, when Zara makes a perfect imitation of a Louis Vuitton without the branding, Zara would be doing counterfeiting and would finance organized crime? In a way, without going into politics, we could argue that we are financing China by buying a frame there, but then it would apply to Specialized as well?
But more positively, what would convince you that TanTan is a genuine frame builder, that people are making genuine review based of “facts”? Are you setting the bar to seeing and testing one yourself?
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I'm new to the forum and to the whole chinese cycling world, please take this into consideration.
I was going through the messages on this thread and similar ones and noticed that the safety aspect of buying those "heavily inspired" bikes (or straight up clones) isn't discussed much. Are those Seraph/TanTan clones really safe to ride?
And maybe a bit off-topic, but are there good value for money chinese brands that don't bother about copying frames (do their own or open molds), but are solid and can be trusted regarding quality and safety? I know about the ones such as Tavelo, Seka, Yoeleo, Winspace and etc, but those seem to be a bit "pricey" already
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You should make a new thread, and we will answer you there.
But tldr; TanTan is safe.
Light Carbon and Yishun are great, Velobuild has many users and no one died, Carbonda, Hongfu, ICan are other good brands. Check Youtube for more info.
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Dangerous frames should mostly be a thing of the past. First off, modern production methods make it harder to fuck up during the layup process. And unlike in the past, when factories needed to have layup schedules provided to them to get the best results, the factories have their own engineers with just as much expertise.
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How many no brand frames have you owned and used? None
Which supplier did you buy from? None
How did you choose the supplier? None but what due diligence can you carry out really from reading online reviews None as they are merely opinion based with no real facts
What are the conditions of the workers in the factories that produce for specialized? well i would like to think and an educated guess are the conditions are what you would expect from a brand like specialized as you have to remember reputation is everything.
So answer these questions for me yourself?
Most counterfeit goods bought are generally in tandem with organised crime its generally a given in some cases but obviously not all
Specialized literally has workers striking saying they weren't paid/worked in horrible conditions.
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First Test Rides with the Tantan TT X 68 – Clipless Pedals, Comfort & Di2 Shifting
Hey everyone,
I’ve done two test rides on my new Tantan TT X 68, each around 30 kilometers. Here are my first impressions:
First Ride:
The goal was to get comfortable with the bike, especially since it’s my first time riding with Shimano SPD-SL (blue) clipless pedals.
I rode at a relaxed pace, did a few sprints, and tested the gear shifting.
Tire pressure was around 3.5 bar, and the ride was extremely comfortable.
Shifting issue (Shimano Di2 105): I had some trouble shifting to the highest cog – maybe I pressed the wrong buttons. Solution: I reprogrammed the button layout in the app → now the shifting works perfectly!
Second Ride:
I felt much more confident with the clipless pedals.
Tracked the ride with the Adidas Running App.
Tire pressure this time was 6.5 bar, still comfortable.
I’m very cautious in corners, as I want to avoid any crashes – especially with clipless pedals, it’s something new for me.
The first 15 km didn’t feel much faster than usual.
Pace: about 2:00 min/km (~30 km/h), estimated Zone 3 (FTP).
I have to push myself, but I can maintain the pace for a long time as long as I’m well-rested.
On the way back: After 15 km, a random cyclist appeared, and I was able to draft behind them.
Speed test: We held a pace of 1:45 min/km for about 2 km, and I was able to keep up very easily – even while chewing gum!
Comparison to the ROSE Backroad GRX810 EQ Carbon:
The Tantan TT X 68 feels significantly lighter and is a bit faster, especially in sprints – likely due to the clipless pedals and the overall sportier setup.
Design: The Tantan looks way better to me and has a very modern and sleek appearance. It stands out massively – and in a positive way! I’ve already gotten several looks and compliments for it.
Shifting: The electronic Di2 shifting makes the Tantan feel smoother and faster.
ROSE Backroad: My ROSE Backroad is definitely more of an all-rounder bike – with mudguards, a durable frame, and more suited for longer, more relaxed rides. I’d say the ROSE is better for versatile touring, while the Tantan focuses on a more sporty approach.
Opinion from the Bike Shop:
I also got the opinion of a guy at a bike shop. When he looked at the Tantan TT X 68, you could see that it really put a big grin on his face. I think that says it all.
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My beef with this is less about the counterfeiting and more about the laziness. Id be much more interested in this if it WASN'T an SL8 clone. Aero front/downtube, thin horizontal top tube, round seatpost, dropped seatstays, threaded BB. A real "do it all" bike with aero, comfort and low weight. I think with optimization they could get that frame unpainted down under 800g. Im tired of the proprietary seatposts and clones. I think Tan Tan, Velobuild etc need to start leaning more into originality.
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First Test Rides with the Tantan TT X 68 – Clipless Pedals, Comfort & Di2 Shifting
Hey everyone,
I’ve done two test rides on my new Tantan TT X 68, each around 30 kilometers. Here are my first impressions:
First Ride:
The goal was to get comfortable with the bike, especially since it’s my first time riding with Shimano SPD-SL (blue) clipless pedals.
I rode at a relaxed pace, did a few sprints, and tested the gear shifting.
Tire pressure was around 3.5 bar, and the ride was extremely comfortable.
Shifting issue (Shimano Di2 105): I had some trouble shifting to the highest cog – maybe I pressed the wrong buttons. Solution: I reprogrammed the button layout in the app → now the shifting works perfectly!
Second Ride:
I felt much more confident with the clipless pedals.
Tracked the ride with the Adidas Running App.
Tire pressure this time was 6.5 bar, still comfortable.
I’m very cautious in corners, as I want to avoid any crashes – especially with clipless pedals, it’s something new for me.
The first 15 km didn’t feel much faster than usual.
Pace: about 2:00 min/km (~30 km/h), estimated Zone 3 (FTP).
I have to push myself, but I can maintain the pace for a long time as long as I’m well-rested.
On the way back: After 15 km, a random cyclist appeared, and I was able to draft behind them.
Speed test: We held a pace of 1:45 min/km for about 2 km, and I was able to keep up very easily – even while chewing gum!
Comparison to the ROSE Backroad GRX810 EQ Carbon:
The Tantan TT X 68 feels significantly lighter and is a bit faster, especially in sprints – likely due to the clipless pedals and the overall sportier setup.
Design: The Tantan looks way better to me and has a very modern and sleek appearance. It stands out massively – and in a positive way! I’ve already gotten several looks and compliments for it.
Shifting: The electronic Di2 shifting makes the Tantan feel smoother and faster.
ROSE Backroad: My ROSE Backroad is definitely more of an all-rounder bike – with mudguards, a durable frame, and more suited for longer, more relaxed rides. I’d say the ROSE is better for versatile touring, while the Tantan focuses on a more sporty approach.
Opinion from the Bike Shop:
I also got the opinion of a guy at a bike shop. When he looked at the Tantan TT X 68, you could see that it really put a big grin on his face. I think that says it all.
Thanks for sharing your experience of the first rides!
Bike looks great, especially your wavy wheelset. From which brand or website do you have it?
And do you know the overall weight of your x68? Looks like size 54 isn‘t it?
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more infos are at page 8 and 11
look for my posts
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https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html (https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html)
A far better alternative than buying a bottom bracket exploding fake SL8 in my opinion. Identical geometry of course. Maybe I should get one to compare to my actual Tarmac SL8
Seraph is the "brand" counterpart to Tantan if I'm not mistaken...
EDIT: Even the geometry chart is using a photo of a frame with an SL7 Tarmac stem and spacers ;D
Yo ho ho Pat dude, really loving your SL8 Pro setup bro with the Speedy Decals looking BLANG BLANG! how are they holding on till date bro? the decals? can you tell if they are really high quality?
And did you try reaching out to Seraph to give you out a frame to review? I bet their sales would skyrocket if you'd post one huh or even direct from the guys over at TanTan cycling if they'll send you out one eh?
Would that impact your relationship will your local Specialized Dealer or they would just go like meh?
A sick video it would be if you could be able to compare it to your current SL8 Pro setup!
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40 days from payment and not shipped...
I recognize the 10 day holiday, but that was 15 days post payment.
I'd be less concerned if my request for a status update has gone 36 hrs without a response.
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40 days from payment and not shipped...
I recognize the 10 day holiday, but that was 15 days post payment.
I'd be less concerned if my request for a status update has gone 36 hrs without a response.
Same here, really disappointed at this point with the support from Seraph...
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Same here, really disappointed at this point with the support from Seraph...
Vivian is answering in real-time by whatsapp
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Yo ho ho Pat dude, really loving your SL8 Pro setup bro with the Speedy Decals looking BLANG BLANG! how are they holding on till date bro? the decals? can you tell if they are really high quality?
And did you try reaching out to Seraph to give you out a frame to review? I bet their sales would skyrocket if you'd post one huh or even direct from the guys over at TanTan cycling if they'll send you out one eh?
Would that impact your relationship will your local Specialized Dealer or they would just go like meh?
A sick video it would be if you could be able to compare it to your current SL8 Pro setup!
Yo yo! The Speedy Decals are holding up swell. Whenever I wash or wipe down my SL8 I make sure not to really scrub near the decals.
I haven't tried to contact TanTan/Seraph for an X68 since I just very recently finished building their GR201 gravel frame. Which is awesome.
My opinion on the X68 in general tends to change by the week. It would make for a popular, albeit polarizing, video. However I just know deep down that I wouldn't give it the time and effort it deserves. Maybe later in the spring.
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Yo yo! The Speedy Decals are holding up swell. Whenever I wash or wipe down my SL8 I make sure not to really scrub near the decals.
I haven't tried to contact TanTan/Seraph for an X68 since I just very recently finished building their GR201 gravel frame. Which is awesome.
My opinion on the X68 in general tends to change by the week. It would make for a popular, albeit polarizing, video. However I just know deep down that I wouldn't give it the time and effort it deserves. Maybe later in the spring.
I'm torn on this frame, especially after my rant about counterfeits earlier. As an owner of a genuine SL8, it's hard to justify buying this, even though the price and reviews have been very positive. A detailed review and comparison against the real deal by your good self! would definitely help me decide, as I'm considering a budget build to replace my Winspace SL2.0 frame and Hyper wheels, which aren't getting any love at the moment. I already have Ultegra Di2, and the new XM Carbon Speed T1100 wheels look amazing—I even emailed Peter about them. Now, I just need a frame, and I'm stuck choosing between an open-mold/copy, a branded Chinese frame, or waiting for Quick Pro Area to release the ER:ONE next month. There is just so much choice t the moment its makes my head spin!
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I will place my order this weekend.
Bike will be comopleted with Ultegra Di2, SRAM Red E1 crank, Sigeyi Axo powermeter, EXS handlerbar and a 50mm carbon spoke wheelset from Peter.
Expect the wheight around 6,8kg.
Hopefully the frame will be just as stiff as my SWORKS SL6
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I will place my order this weekend.
Bike will be comopleted with Ultegra Di2, SRAM Red E1 crank, Sigeyi Axo powermeter, EXS handlerbar and a 50mm carbon spoke wheelset from Peter.
Expect the wheight around 6,8kg.
Hopefully the frame will be just as stiff as my SWORKS SL6
Nice be interesting to see you review. I have a Cybrei crank on my SL8 but have asked Peter a bit more on there carbon crank as well
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I got the SRAM RED E1 crank für 270$ new coming 310g, no-brainer.
The complete unit with powermeter and Shimano chainrings comes at 560g.
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Any opinions from those who have integrated handlebars like those on the X68 that have a fixed angle? Is it not too limiting? Obviously it comes down to how the rest of the bike fits as well and so I'm guessing opinions are mixed.
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Any opinions from those who have integrated handlebars like those on the X68 that have a fixed angle? Is it not too limiting? Obviously it comes down to how the rest of the bike fits as well and so I'm guessing opinions are mixed.
Also curious about this or if anyone knows some integrated bar/stem setups without the huge drops like -10 degrees etc. Im running black Inc ones with -6 degree which is a big change going from a +6.
But yes thats the limiting factor of the integrated bar/stem, you're set in that ecosystem with no tweaking.
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
Same!
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What have all you guys who have a frame paid? Or what have you been quoted?
Been quoted UD matte black or gloss
$589usd
$150 postag inc taxes
5% PayPal
Same price. I think they are out of stock now. I ordered the frame a week ago
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Vivian is answering in real-time by whatsapp
I'm still waiting for any replies... At this point I'm just disapointed that not a single thing has been shipped after 2 months...
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I have been in contact with them a couple of times, paid my frame on the 16th of January and when i asked them abotu ETA they said that the frame should be finished around 25th of February.
I was chatting with them couple of times since then and i got a message yesterday that the frame should be done next week and they will ship it. I wasn't expecting much of a support or communication from them but i think being a week or two late on this is okayish in the end. I'll update the post when they ship it out.
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Same price. I think they are out of stock now. I ordered the frame a week ago
Vivian at Tan tan has quoted shipping in 15-20 days with shipping to UK 10-18 days
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Hi,
I got an invoice of TanTan for this frame. Paypal fee are 5%, with alipay there is no fee. Addidionally the exchange rate at paypal is also very bad. How did you guys paid your frame at TanTan?
Have someone experience with wise?
Thanks!
BR Markus
How did you end up paying? Do they charge you before making the frame (I'm assuming it's before) or after it's complete?
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How did you end up paying? Do they charge you before making the frame (I'm assuming it's before) or after it's complete?
You pay up front.
They may accept bank transfer which would be better.
Or maybe a credit card payment link.
But you get some sort of protection with paypal
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I have been in contact with them a couple of times, paid my frame on the 16th of January and when i asked them abotu ETA they said that the frame should be finished around 25th of February.
I was chatting with them couple of times since then and i got a message yesterday that the frame should be done next week and they will ship it. I wasn't expecting much of a support or communication from them but i think being a week or two late on this is okayish in the end. I'll update the post when they ship it out.
Paid for mine 1/13 and finally got a reply yesterday that "its still in paint". Given that its stock white, I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. Either they have had more demand than expected or supply issues.
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Paid for mine 1/13 and finally got a reply yesterday that "its still in paint". Given that its stock white, I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. Either they have had more demand than expected or supply issues.
You think they keep stock?!
They make to order and they still have a backlog still due to Chinese New Year which they are still catching up on.
I would say 8-10 weeks for a frame at the moment
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I'm torn on this frame, especially after my rant about counterfeits earlier. As an owner of a genuine SL8, it's hard to justify buying this, even though the price and reviews have been very positive. A detailed review and comparison against the real deal by your good self! would definitely help me decide, as I'm considering a budget build to replace my Winspace SL2.0 frame and Hyper wheels, which aren't getting any love at the moment. I already have Ultegra Di2, and the new XM Carbon Speed T1100 wheels look amazing—I even emailed Peter about them. Now, I just need a frame, and I'm stuck choosing between an open-mold/copy, a branded Chinese frame, or waiting for Quick Pro Area to release the ER:ONE next month. There is just so much choice t the moment its makes my head spin!
If I had to pick a "do it all" Chinese frameset right now it would be the SLC 3.0. Seems like it takes everything I like about the SL8, then drops the weight and runs a conventional round seatpost. I just finished a build but I wish I had gone with the SLC. I think it came out after I ordered my frame. Worth a look
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If I had to pick a "do it all" Chinese frameset right now it would be the SLC 3.0. Seems like it takes everything I like about the SL8, then drops the weight and runs a conventional round seatpost. I just finished a build but I wish I had gone with the SLC. I think it came out after I ordered my frame. Worth a look
Hmmm, I’ve considered the SLC3 as a potential replacement for the SLC2 frame I currently have. I can actually get Winspace products at trade price and i I’ve bought their wheels, but I tend to buy less from them now. Other companies like XM Carbon Speed offer wheels that are cheaper and better specced, and honestly, I’m not keen on the aesthetics of Winspace frames.
What frame was your build?
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You think they keep stock?!
They make to order and they still have a backlog still due to Chinese New Year which they are still catching up on.
I would say 8-10 weeks for a frame at the moment
Vivian at Tan tan has quoted shipping in 15-20 days with shipping to UK 10-18 days
Hmm. So your suggesting that they can ship a matt or gloss frame in 2-3 weeks but 8-10 for one that's painted in the stock white?
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Hmmm, I’ve considered the SLC3 as a potential replacement for the SLC2 frame I currently have. I can actually get Winspace products at trade price and i I’ve bought their wheels, but I tend to buy less from them now. Other companies like XM Carbon Speed offer wheels that are cheaper and better specced, and honestly, I’m not keen on the aesthetics of Winspace frames.
What frame was your build?
I built a TanTan FM639; basically a Cervelo R5 clone. I like it, but the SLC 3.0 is just better aero and weight wise. If it had a threaded BB it would be perfect.
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Hmm. So your suggesting that they can ship a matt or gloss frame in 2-3 weeks but 8-10 for one that's painted in the stock white?
I don’t think they keep stock at all and manufacturer on order and give out general time frames for delivery.
I think wait times are a lottery
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I don’t think they keep stock at all and manufacturer on order and give out general time frames for delivery.
I think wait times are a lottery
Hmm not sure.
I’ve been trying to order a TT-X65 in size 56, they keep saying that it’s a new frame and not in stock in that size yet. However, they are suggesting me to buy a x68 instead as these are in stock in all sizes.
Or, they are trying to get me to buy a more expensive/profitable frame?
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Hmm not sure.
I’ve been trying to order a TT-X65 in size 56, they keep saying that it’s a new frame and not in stock in that size yet. However, they are suggesting me to buy a x68 instead as these are in stock in all sizes.
Or, they are trying to get me to buy a more expensive/profitable frame?
I asked this week about size 54 and they told me they were out of stock.
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I asked this week about size 54 and they told me they were out of stock.
Interesting, I’ll ask for the availability on 54 next week, see if I get the same response.
There’s always a risk of something getting lost in translation. :)
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From what I have been able to find out, the bottleneck is in the painting area. They are very behind there.
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Yeah. Had I known I would have done something different...I went with the pearl white as a) its nice b) its neutral and c) all their promos featured it so I assumed it was a "stock" color.
My concern is that I'm on borrowed time vis a vis the tariff situation, and if it changes it'll be a $700 or so price increase.
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My bike is out of paint as of today, so figure around a little over a month allowing for the holiday break.
From the video the paint looks great and bb and disc mounts seem nicely faced.
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More fotos!!! It’s a very nice Bike
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I am extremely tempted to buy one as a winter and race bike for when its dangerous. Is the di2 junction box holder in the seatpost? I would slap a ultegra di2 11sp group on it.
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Any new reviews please ?
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
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Question, does the lowest spacer/headsetcap/whateverthename is, sit flush after finishing the build? The gap/size doesnt really seem to fit the headtube/toptube-intersection.
By the way, loving the purple matte frame! Haven't seen that one before.
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
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Question, does the lowest spacer/headsetcap/whateverthename is, sit flush after finishing the build? The gap/size doesnt really seem to fit the headtube/toptube-intersection.
By the way, loving the purple matte frame! Haven't seen that one before.
So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
Thank you, guys! I saw a similar color on one of Tantan's frames on Instagram and really liked it. It looks even better on the x68, and I'm quite looking forward to seeing it in the sun!
As for the gap, I'll see how it looks when I get it and finish the build, but it won't be that much better than what is in the picture now from all the other builds I've seen people post here. SL8 has that gap smaller, for sure.
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Looks great!
Is it purple matte? or which colour do they call it?
And yes, gap is less when compressed.
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Is that a 58cm?
First one i saw on this forum
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Yes the frame is 58, and the color is indeed purple matte finish. This is what i had in my PDF order confirmation from Tantan: YS9448 i also specified to them that i want this color in matte. I saw it on one other frame where it was named something purple chameleon on one of the instagram accounts of Tantan.
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Did the seller give you any weight for your size?
I am very interested in a x68 in size 58 myself. The proportions look good.
Curious to see your insights on stiffness: all tubes being longer it should be less stiff. yet a tantan x38 in 58 is very stiff i heard
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Did the seller give you any weight for your size?
I am very interested in a x68 in size 58 myself. The proportions look good.
Curious to see your insights on stiffness: all tubes being longer it should be less stiff. yet a tantan x38 in 58 is very stiff i heard
I didn't get any weight info from the seller, but I'll definitely weigh it and post it here when I get the frame. I also plan to take some pics/videos with the endoscope camera from inside the frame and will also put it here :)
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So far this has been the only paint job I've seen on the X68 that would make me reconsider not ordering raw paintless carbon.
I was about to order my X68 in raw carbon, but not seeing any other frames like that I opted for a boring black.
I'm looking forward to seeing some finish like this.
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Yes the frame is 58, and the color is indeed purple matte finish. This is what i had in my PDF order confirmation from Tantan: YS9448 and i saw it on one other frame where it was named something purple chameleon on one of the instagram accounts of Tantan.
Thanks for the color code, it looks amazing.
How tall are you? Did you check the size with the specialized chart?
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Thanks for the color code, it looks amazing.
How tall are you? Did you check the size with the specialized chart?
I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
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The Specialized fit tool is pretty good, but it doesn't really account for variations in drop/comfort. If you're flexible, you can go one size smaller, if not so, one size larger as the bar to saddle drop changes - more drop in the smaller size. I was between a 49 and 52, went with the 49 but it'll be on the edge of what I can ride at 65.
Don't have the bike yet; latest drama is that I ordered with a 11-34. They built with a 32. I said ok, just throw in a chain as I have a 34 but will likely need to resize. They respond, well, Wheeltop max is 32. Sent them a screenshot of the Wheeltop specs (max 36) but told them don't bother, I'll eat cassette and chain, just ship already.
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
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I am 181cm tall and I will buy size 58, as suggested by specialized calculator, because I have internal leg height of 93cm. I am disproportionate in physique.
I will order it soon
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
from what I've inspected, it does seem they are the same
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Can me also someone confirm that the computer mount is 100% the same as used by roval rapide cockpit so that it is compatible with the Magcad mount?
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Ordered my frame in 56, wonderling how this sheme will look like
(https://i.ibb.co/vx49PDCc/2025-03-13-11-31-54-x68-PT-7722-C-PT-871-C-1-pdf-Adobe-Acrobat-Pro-32-bit.png)
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Btw is the derrailer hanger the same as the SL8 has?
Yes. I swapped the stock hanger with an aliexpress direct mount hanger. The fit was perfect and I've had no issues.
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While we're on the parts swap subject, has anyone tried a seatpost swap to hylix or specialized? Thinking about zero offset, no idea if the tantan is dimensionally identical.
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Anyone got an idea how to get the expander out again ?
Mounted the expander, but I want to take it out because of adjusting the fork shaft length and yeah seems like the fucking expander won't come out.
I opened the 6mm screw and then the counter part fell into the frame... So I can't even screw the 6mm in again
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I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
thank you very much for the fedeback. I am thinking of doing a bike fit, seems to be the right time to do it before ordering the frame
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Yes. I swapped the stock hanger with an aliexpress direct mount hanger. The fit was perfect and I've had no issues.
Funny that when asking them directly they said no but apparently it is the same. Most likely they want to distance theirselfs as much as possible from the real SL8 for obvious reasons.
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Anyone got an idea how to get the expander out again ?
Mounted the expander, but I want to take it out because of adjusting the fork shaft length and yeah seems like the fucking expander won't come out.
I opened the 6mm screw and then the counter part fell into the frame... So I can't even screw the 6mm in again
Have you tried this ?
https://youtu.be/8wL_tqCrFSA
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Have you tried this ?
https://youtu.be/8wL_tqCrFSA
Don't see the video but yeah I got it out.
Will use another expander expander in the future
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What do you guys think about the full bike offer from tantan? At 2400 usd seems like an ok deal. Only downside I see is that the chainring is 50-34 only and 170mm crank.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1174
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What do you guys think about the full bike offer from tantan? At 2400 usd seems like an ok deal. Only downside I see is that the chainring is 50-34 only and 170mm crank.
http://www.tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1174
Depends how you feel about:
- the choice of parts (e.g. I'd want wider wheels, better tyres, shorter cranks that support a power meter, and bar size isn't stated - all of which make this an instant no)
- shipping costs (generally much higher for a full bike)
- additional duty costs (and the consequences are much higher if it's picked up by customs)
For those reasons I'm pretty unlikely to ever buy a full bike build direct from China - much easier for me to do it piece-by-piece, first to make sure I get all the parts I want first time around, but also to minimise shipping/duty costs (though this is very country dependent).
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I just sent them an email to see how customizable the full bike kit is. Mainly to see if they can build it with v3.0 er9 and what kind of crank that would include.
I am a bit concerned with the wheelset included. Quality I'm general and maybe too stiff with carbon spokes... Anyone here with experience with that wheelset?
I also asked if it could be a different color.
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Someone earlier in the thread ordered with those wheels.
Don't know why you'd want wider wheels, they're 21 internal, and 28, so perfect for 30-32. Reasonably light too at under 1400g.
The crank? Yeah, I don't like shimano cranks much due to the powermeter issue, but its likely the same to buy the group with or without, so sell it and do something else. I did a wheeltop build that comes with whatever cheap cranks they generally used knowing it was going to get binned.
You can choose bar width.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
That's mostly why I did it that way. Also b/c wheeltop has a rep of being difficult to set up, figured it come to me most or all of the way there.
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That's mostly why I did it that way. Also b/c wheeltop has a rep of being difficult to set up, figured it come to me most or all of the way there.
So you bought a complete bike, but with wheeltop & different wheels? If that's the case, Can you share what wheels you got from them & final price ?
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
Which bike did you order? I think you mean a x68, not sure.
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Yes, x68
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Yes, x68
I talked to them about doing like you did with what FM301 frame. Have not pulled trigger yet.
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I didn't buy "their" complete bike, I ordered one. I got crap wheels, just for the setup, and will sell locally cheap. They're the 50mm carbon but only 16 internal. I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. $650 plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
$2300 with carbon saddle. They don't offer a truly wide wheel, and while their 'wave' wheel is very nice for what it is, none of those "wave" wheels test great aerodynamically, although they do handle well in crosswinds. The latest really wide wheels seem to do ok in crosswinds as well, with the fastest and most stable seeming to settle in a range of 75% or so internal/external width.
I just didn't want to plumb the bike and set up the wheeltop, so figured I'd lose a few bucks on the wheelset and crank and have them do it.
Hoping to see the bike soon, its done but hasn't shipped, 60 days out from payment.
Peter is getting the wheels shipped in less than a week.
https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/carbon-speed-50mm-depth-26-mm-internal-width-disc-brake-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelset-700c-tubeless-compatible
Did you buy a custom painted bike or stock black?
I also ordered now btw. All stock 54 frame, lets see. Should be lighter than my current Tarmac SL7 Pro.
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Painted, the pearl white shown in the video and photos.
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then I was also wondering if the bike accomodates really 140mm front rotors as stated on their website? The real SL8 supports only front 160mm, I would like to run 140mm though.
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I'm 191cm, and I did get a bike fit before ordering it. We tried a couple of geometries on the Guru fit bike, and this geometry in size 58 was really close to my fit. Specialized chart suggests one size bigger for my height, I think.
hi, did you received your bike?fits you well? I'm struggling with size choice... 56 or 58? my current bike settings and my anthropometry below.
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I went to Peter (xmcarbonspeed) and bought a set of 50/65 26mm internal, t800. plus shipping. Just over 1300g.
Does this fit inside the X68? In Patrick Lino 's real SL8 it fitted with 32mm GP5k. When i asked this exact question tantan's responds was "32mm clearance".
IDK if this is tantan's way to deny the resamblance to the SL8, or if the clearance is really different.
I was looking at this same exact combo so any feedback is welcome!
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hi, did you received your bike?fits you well? I'm struggling with size choice... 56 or 58? my current bike settings and my anthropometry below.
Not yet. It should arrive in 12 days or so. It was just shipped out a couple of days ago. As for the size, it's hard to say. I discussed sizing when doing the bike fit and went with the fitter's recommendation. From looking at your fit and mine, it's somewhat similar, so maybe the 58 size would also fit you, but then again, im not really that knowledgeable in this to recommend you anything :D
Reach to handlebar: 576
saddle setback: 90mm
drop from saddle to bars: 88mm
Also for the sl8 size 58 geometry i got recomended 90mm stem and 420mm width for the bars
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Does this fit inside the X68? In Patrick Lino 's real SL8 it fitted with 32mm GP5k. When i asked this exact question tantan's responds was "32mm clearance".
IDK if this is tantan's way to deny the resamblance to the SL8, or if the clearance is really different.
I was looking at this same exact combo so any feedback is welcome!
IDK, as I don't have the bike yet. But Patrick's video praising the wheels he has the same profile rim on an SL8. He's running 32's. I'll start with 30's. Check out his video at the 5 minute mark and following.
Patrick could tell you how it works. The bike has identical dimensions more or less. Specialized likewise says "32".
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Meanwhile i'm looking for 180 adaptors. How much do you weigh?
Around 65 kg, threshold at 330w :D I race a lot and certainly dont get dropped due to the 140 mm rotors I already use on my SL7. I would like to keep them for easy wheel swap.
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So not to whine like a beyoch, but I'm now 65 days from payment. Was told a week ago that my bike would ship. The latest is "The goods have been shipped, but we need to wait a few days for the new tracking number." Is this accurate? Does Tantan ship in such a way that there's no tracking for a few days?
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So not to whine like a beyoch, but I'm now 65 days from payment. Was told a week ago that my bike would ship. The latest is "The goods have been shipped, but we need to wait a few days for the new tracking number." Is this accurate? Does Tantan ship in such a way that there's no tracking for a few days?
Yeah it was the same for me. No update on tracking until 2 days before arrival.
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Hello and thanks to everybody sharing their experiences so far. I have two questions regarding the seatpost: Is there an offset? And what is the minimum insertion for the longer seatpost (380mm)? I tend to order a smaller frame, but that would require the offset and a long seatpost.
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
Would be very interesting if you could say how easily the matte paint scratches
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I have observed that in size 56 the upper tube in the junction with the head tube is different from the original SL8. but it is exactly like the Eissen copy.
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photos photo photos fellas! must be some of you with some deliveries!
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attached the mia in size 56.
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attached the mia in size 56.
Thanks Davidhe23
Where did you buy from? im assuming TanTan?
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Thanks Davidhe23
Where did you buy from? I'm assuming TanTan?
Yes, it's the version of Seraph, but I'm almost certain they use the framework of other manufacturers. They all bring the defect that doesn't grow the top tube into higher sizes, and my size 56 looks very similar to the original in size 58.
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So, I finally got my frame in today.
Here are some pictures of me unpacking it and checking it out with an endoscope camera.
These are not the best quality pictures, but you can see that everything inside the frame is really neat, with no sharp edges or anything else.
I will be building the bike with my friend this Saturday, and I will post some more pictures with the weights of the stuff and so on.
My frame is size 58.
All weights of the individual parts are:
Frame - 971,8g
Fork - 360,03g
Seatpost - 163,5g
Cockpit - 357,4g
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ECYjE7t443kKLPjBBGKWUSLbhGIo3fcP?usp=sharing
All of the pictures are in this google drive folder.. I couldn’t upload any phots here and if i did it broke the whole topic page returning 500 error :/
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So, I finally got my frame in today.
Here are some pictures of me unpacking it and checking it out with an endoscope camera.
These are not the best quality pictures, but you can see that everything inside the frame is really neat, with no sharp edges or anything else.
I will be building the bike with my friend this Saturday, and I will post some more pictures with the weights of the stuff and so on.
My frame is size 58.
All weights of the individual parts are:
Frame - 971,8g
Fork - 360,03g
Seatpost - 163,5g
Cockpit - 357,4g
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ECYjE7t443kKLPjBBGKWUSLbhGIo3fcP?usp=sharing
All of the pictures are in this google drive folder.. I couldn’t upload any phots here and if i did it broke the whole topic page returning 500 error :/
Nice colour dovh.
Same they dont face the BB or the brake calliper mounts but for the price I suppose you can do that yourself!
Anyone else review or photos?
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Anyone else having problems with the battery holder?
It prevents the seat post from going in all the way and it gets stuck when taking out the seat post which says to me that the clamping from the holder to the seat post is absolutely shit.
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Anyone else having problems with the battery holder?
It prevents the seat post from going in all the way and it gets stuck when taking out the seat post which says to me that the clamping from the holder to the seat post is absolutely shit.
You can have a look at this type B battery holder :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdKITI
It is expensive for what it is but it works perfectly on a SL8 seatpost. However, I am not sure how it will fit for the x68 seatpost.
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Received a box today via dhl with the derailleurs and chain. Was told in advance this was due to the batteries. No idea if they paired and tuned them prior to shipment, we'll see.
But the bike...is stuck for 3 days in Shanghai, "export customs retention/ to be verified". I'm hoping this isn't going to turn into another week delay. Day 66 and counting.
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The main draw to buying a complete bike from TanTan is they are held accountable in making sure caliper mounts, bottom bracket, and bearing cups are properly faced within spec.
That is of course assuming they inspect and align everything prior to shipping.
You seriously need to do a review on this against your genuine SL8!
Be great to see s side by side comparison including internals etc
Please be guinea pig lol
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Here is my final take on all of this:
1. One needs to ask themself why they actually want this frame design instead of buying a genuine SL8. Like really...why do customers want an SL8 budget alternative? Pricepoint? The design itself? Inherent brand cache? Aero testing? Geometry? Only the customer can answer this. Really no wrong answers here...
2. However, if quality control is a concern, get the TanTan version and call it a day. Serge_K has already provided a comprehensive list of legitimate reasons to avoid buying fakes.
3. Or buy a Quick-Pro AR-One or Tavelo Arow if you truly have the budget for a performance bike. Or go the Speeder route.
4. My VeloBuild 168 (SL7 clone) and TanTan X38 (Scott Foil clone), respectively, were pretty uninspiring to ride. The VB-168 was a noodle when pushing the watts. The X38 on the other hand was stiff in all the wrong areas causing a constant disruptive riding experience.
5. Past trends dictate future trends so I don't expect a $600 TanTan frame to magically perform like the real deal. Especially when the other Western brands I've reviewed don't really come close to riding the characteristics of the SL8 either.
6. The Tarmac SL8 is a delicate balance of ultra comfort, super lightweight, and still being stiff enough. Personally I prefer frames with more perceived stiffness and road feedback/communication. Even if Specialized added 300g to the frame weight to achieve this. And I don't love the look of the SL8. But it is the benchmark bike I get asked about the most. It's a fantastic climber and handles crosswinds better than any bike I've tested.
Specialized made compromises by opting for a tiny bottom bracket section on the SL8 in the name of comfort. Like the Aethos. So just imagine how those same compromises might be realized on a $600 frame. TanTan or fake.
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I agree with most of what Patrick says above. I'll just toss out there that I think the margins are narrowing. EPS, the sharing of knowledge etc. have made things closer. The VAM clones by all reports are pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing. I suspect the X68 is closer to an SL bike than the x38 is to a Foil. Time will tell.
Its not impossible, even with the price difference. Again, look at the US tariffs going back to Trump 1. There's a good reason that carbon frames at $600 were exempt at the urging of Parlee and others. There have been plenty of reports to sort of place the actual cost of most outsourced framesets in that ballpark. Now, aside from marketing, sponsorship, cache, and multi level distribution, what accounts for the retail price of a real SL8? I don't doubt there are some corners cut, but several thousand dollars in corners? An SL8 frameset is over 3k. Without a handlebar/stem. So yeah, for some of us cost is a consideration.
In my case the algebra was simple. I'm 65. Its questionable whether I'll be comfortable on an aggro geometry bike (and for how much longer, lol), and rather than risk 2500 or so on a used sl8 to find out, here I'm risking 700 bucks. If the geo works and the bike is nice enough, I'll hang on to it, if it sucks in either ride or fit, its not an economic disaster. I've had non clone bikes from Hong Fu etc that were fine, and while this is a more sophisticated thing, I'm not worried.
Still, I'd be willing to pitch a hundred bucks Patrick's way to help fund an x68 back to back, out of genuine curiosity as to how close or far from an acknowledge halo bike it is.
PS-I hear you, Patrick about the "softness" of the sl8 relatively. Its why I sort of chuckle at reviews of the x68 that say its "slightly soft". Hell, the real thing is.
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You are far too kind and generous @glepore thank you!
I'm still reviewing TanTan's latest gravel frame so I don't wanna ruin my good graces with them until all the video content has been fulfilled. Also I suspect they wouldn't be keen on sending the X68 for reviews since they don't really wanna be promoting clones in public's eye. The X38 Scott Foil clone I paid for myself.
TanTan would most likely want me to commit financially to the X68. I'll see if I can negotiate haha. It's 2 month turnaround anyway.
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You are far too kind and generous @glepore thank you!
I'm still reviewing TanTan's latest gravel frame so I don't wanna ruin my good graces with them until all the video content has been fulfilled. Also I suspect they wouldn't be keen on sending the X68 for reviews since they don't really wanna be promoting clones in public's eye. The X38 Scott Foil clone I paid for myself.
TanTan would most likely want me to commit financially to the X68. I'll see if I can negotiate haha. It's 2 month turnaround anyway.
I guess you should do more penetration test to make content :)
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And keeping in mind: OEM SL8 is around 700g, the X68 araing 840g, means 20% more material to cover up non-optimal layup pattern ... saving 4k on a frame
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And keeping in mind: OEM SL8 is around 700g, the X68 araing 840g, means 20% more material to cover up non-optimal layup pattern ... saving 4k on a frame
That's the same pretty much as the Pro Model. i think your looking at 850-900g for a 54cm
My genuine SL8 54CM IS 700g
That's acceptable and well light compared wit some of the OEM open mould generally around 1000g
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On price, i heard that the factory that makes frames for Factor charges Factor less than $500 per frame...
+1 Here too
Price ≠ Quality – Hard Facts on Building Blocks, Smartphones, Carbon Bikes & Cars
Many people assume: High price = high quality, low price = cheap junk. But that’s not necessarily true. Quality means meeting requirements – and these are set individually by each customer. Additionally, there are standards like ISO norms.
A clear example: Building Blocks. LEGO, the European Danish brand, charges high prices. But if you compare their products to Chinese competitors like Pantasy or Panlos or Funwhole , you might be shocked.
Facts:
✔️ Chinese brands offer products at half the price – with better quality!
✔️ No scratches on the bricks
✔️ Less color variation
✔️ Printed parts instead of cheap stickers
✔️ Higher-quality prints (LEGO prints only once, causing colors to shine through)
LEGO cuts costs everywhere – and it shows. Price is not a guarantee for quality or "good" Product.
The same applies to smartphones.
What do you think an iPhone costs to produce? Just a few hundred euros – but it sells for five times that amount! Here, you’re not paying for quality but for branding, marketing, and profit margins.
And it’s no different with carbon bikes.
According to my research, a carbon frame costs around €300–600 to manufacture. Important: This refers to production costs, not the retail price or sales price! Yet, these bikes are sold for thousands in stores.
Even cars follow this pattern.
Take the Xiaomi SU7 Max: In China, it costs around €38,000, but in Germany, the price jumps to €70,000! This massive markup isn’t about quality – it’s about import taxes, branding, and extra costs.
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I will be keen on hearing more ride impressions from the folks in here. Seems like specifically the X68 should be very close to the actual SL8. Only time will tell...
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As far as I can tell from this thread, only you and Sander have genuine sl8's-the ride impressions from the rest of us are likely meaningless.
FWIW, I'm only 165 cm and 60 kg with an old guy's ftp to match, so my ride impressions will be skewed. Unless the bike is a complete noodle or rides like a 2x4 I'll likely think its ok. My other bikes are high end mixed materials or ti and can't really serve as data points. Closest thing to an actual sl series that I've owned was an older SS Evo.
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Well, after the first 100km on the bike I can confirm that it is very rigid. Having used a Velobuild 268 about 5000km last year. This Tantan X68 shows from the outset the differences in driving.
I won't go into details of whether it's easier to maintain high speed at less watts, but I've been able to see that in strong sprints at 900 watts 268 It was more flexible than this bike
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I can compare it at least to my SL7 on which I have 120.000 km :D
Btw so can someone confirm me that it is compatible with front 140 mm disc rotors?
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
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Sweet color, don't drop it.
I just saved a hundred bucks! Want some tequila?
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Sweet color, don't drop it.
I just saved a hundred bucks! Want some tequila?
Haha I stopped drinking 16 months ago. Ironically the last drink I had was tequila I think. It sucks tbh. No spirit-free cocktail can replace the taste of a good old fashion...
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Will be very curious to hear your thoughts on how the 2 frames compare, given you're pushing equipment in ways that 90+% of the users on this forum dont.
Yes I ride a lot with yearsly also 400.000m elevation and rac(ed) a lot with a usually around 20h of training per week. Thus I know my Tarmac SL7 very very well. I was also a bit sceptical about the chinese frames. But recently I bought a Carbonda 505 SL as gravel/road bike and i am amazed of how well it rides also compared to my SL7. Thus for only 700 dollars I will give the Seraph a try. I will even stick the same components on it, same wheels, same groupset (found a ultegra 11 speed di2 for cheap from a local Conti riders old second bike), same saddle and most importantly i have also on my SL7 the Roval Rapide cockpit, so I can compare that. I will try to report here.
Still wondering if the 140mm front brake disc will work though.
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Via e-Mail they confirmed to me, that the frame works with 140/140, and that another adapter is needed for 160. I ordered just 2 weeks ago, so it'll take some time till I can confirm first hand.
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Yes I ride a lot with yearsly also 400.000m elevation and rac(ed) a lot with a usually around 20h of training per week. Thus I know my Tarmac SL7 very very well. I was also a bit sceptical about the chinese frames. But recently I bought a Carbonda 505 SL as gravel/road bike and i am amazed of how well it rides also compared to my SL7. Thus for only 700 dollars I will give the Seraph a try. I will even stick the same components on it, same wheels, same groupset (found a ultegra 11 speed di2 for cheap from a local Conti riders old second bike), same saddle and most importantly i have also on my SL7 the Roval Rapide cockpit, so I can compare that. I will try to report here.
Still wondering if the 140mm front brake disc will work though.
AFAIK default rotor size for SL8 is 160mm for the front fork, so you may need to buy a cheap reverse disc rotor size adapter from 160mm to a 140mm reducer.
Would look forward to your build and experience bro, good luck!
PS Saw this video over at youtube, I can see the guy simply fipped the disc rotor mount;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksyDjyhMlBI)
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My good man, please make a dedicated thread here to share your thoughts when you're done. You could break the internet. Genuinely, if you transfer the components, including wheels, tyres, cockpit, given how much you ride, your FTP, the type of riding you do, you comparing a real SL7 to this frame will credibly answer questions almost every one looking at chinese frames is asking. I would even want you on the nero show podcast shooting $hit w Jesse Coyle, because again, you'd be credible.
It's exciting :D
Haha i can think of that when I have the frame. Either a thread or a good post here. I for sure will abuse the frame, while Im not pushing insane watts (threshold around 335w with 65kg) I am for sure relative competitive.
But yes I cannot wait to have the frame in my hands. Being on the nero show would be maybe a bit to much.
btw if you want to follow me im here on strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/8718766
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Have the frame built with Ultegra di2 11s and Onirii pedals, some 45mm deep heavy wheels and S-Works Power, weighs in at 7.2kg.
I'm having an issue with brake caliper mounts on the front, they aren't faced and my LBS says they can't face them because of the unusual length between the both screws.. I think with the Park Tool facing tool this should be fixable, just have to find a bike shop that will do this for me.
I'm excited about the first kilometers on the bike in the next weeks. Can only compare to my SL6 clone from Delihea/Trifox
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Haha i can think of that when I have the frame. Either a thread or a good post here. I for sure will abuse the frame, while Im not pushing insane watts (threshold around 335w with 65kg) I am for sure relative competitive.
But yes I cannot wait to have the frame in my hands. Being on the nero show would be maybe a bit to much.
btw if you want to follow me im here on strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/8718766
Yep definitely interested in reading some more reviews and maybe some photos.
Was thinking of Taiwan Eisen Frame but again maybe X68. Tan Tab said the manufacture it but who knows.
If we could get some cold hard evidence they did and were not trading frames I might pull the trigger. But will read as I am i no rush to get another frame as I would use as a winter bike in UK anyway
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
I also dropped that metal plate holding the front derailleur plate into the seat tube absolute pain to get that back
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Have the frame built with Ultegra di2 11s and Onirii pedals, some 45mm deep heavy wheels and S-Works Power, weighs in at 7.2kg.
I'm having an issue with brake caliper mounts on the front, they aren't faced and my LBS says they can't face them because of the unusual length between the both screws.. I think with the Park Tool facing tool this should be fixable, just have to find a bike shop that will do this for me.
I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
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I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
I don't know whether it's the same spacing as Specialized or different from their spacing.
They did ship with the adapter for 160mm, I will ride with 160mm disc in the front
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I also dropped that metal plate holding the front derailleur plate into the seat tube absolute pain to get that back
For future user, you can have a look at pages 20, 21 and 22 of the Tarmac SL8 manual. It explains how to install it.
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I wonder if its actually "unusual" or just a copy of Specialized unique spacing to the Aetheos and SL8. I'm curious-are you running 160 up front and did the frame ship with the appropriate adapter to make that work?
Yes, you get the proper adapter for the 160mm rotor. You can see it in the picture below. I also set it up with 160mm in the back, and I used the Shimano flat mount adapter that was provided with the 105 di2 kit I got.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZahWCEys7QcntiSH_ZXIWIQdF5lDjy_k/view?usp=drive_link
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We also had issues with the brake calipers settling in. This can be fixed with the specific tool, but we could let Tantan know about this problem so they can fix it, since quite a few of us have had it. It also happens on 12k bikes.
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Yes, you get the proper adapter for the 160mm rotor. You can see it in the picture below. I also set it up with 160mm in the back, and I used the Shimano flat mount adapter that was provided with the 105 di2 kit I got.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZahWCEys7QcntiSH_ZXIWIQdF5lDjy_k/view?usp=drive_link
Ok so and to use 140mm rotors you turn it around or you need another adapter? Or do you use the normal one of shimano?
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Ok so and to use 140mm rotors you turn it around or you need another adapter? Or do you use the normal one of shimano?
I believe you can't use the 140mm front brake rotor. I don't know how that would work with this adapter. I don't think turning it around or something would work.
I remember when I was putting on the front brake caliper, I tested the Shimano adapter that came with the calipers, and that seemed to fit, so maybe 140mm could work.
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I believe you can't use the 140mm front brake rotor. I don't know how that would work with this adapter. I don't think turning it around or something would work.
I remember when I was putting on the front brake caliper, I tested the Shimano adapter that came with the calipers, and that seemed to fit, so maybe 140mm could work.
OKay I see. I think there remains nothing left as to try for myself once I have the frame.
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Yeah, it remains a mystery. The actual sl8 is 160 only which causes problems in Campy land as they're standard front road caliper is native 160, so you end up having to use a rear caliper and Specialized plate, as Specialized chose unique spacing for the brake mounts. So it may be that Tantan ships this with a 140 mount or not. Guess we'll both find out.
My bike finally cleared outbound customs after being held for 6 days for "verification". Day 71 from payment.
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Yeah, it remains a mystery. The actual sl8 is 160 only which causes problems in Campy land as they're standard front road caliper is native 160, so you end up having to use a rear caliper and Specialized plate, as Specialized chose unique spacing for the brake mounts. So it may be that Tantan ships this with a 140 mount or not. Guess we'll both find out.
My bike finally cleared outbound customs after being held for 6 days for "verification". Day 71 from payment.
Jasus, 71 days! There must be a huge demand.
What’s size and colour have you ordered?
Woukd love to see more photos of your frames fellas and ladies!
I’ve been considering a few options, including the Taiwan Eisen and a few others, but Tan Tan seems to have more positive reviews. I’m now leaning back toward this frame for my build, which will go up against my genuine SL8. Planning to use XM wheels, Ultegra, a Ryet saddle, and an OSPW
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Nuthin special, just the pearl white shown in their promos. In fairness, paid 1/19, then the New Year came, then I hear paint was backed up due to the backlog, then they put the wrong cassette on and a couple days to email back and forth to make sure I was ok with it (32 vs 34 ordered, have a light 34 here anyway), then 5 days while customs inspected it. So likely not typical, but I ain't getting any younger.
I have a pile of stuff waiting, XM 50/65, quarq, light cassette, cages. Campy calipers and rotors to swap for the Wheeltop, yada.
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Nuthin special, just the pearl white shown in their promos. In fairness, paid 1/19, then the New Year came, then I hear paint was backed up due to the backlog, then they put the wrong cassette on and a couple days to email back and forth to make sure I was ok with it (32 vs 34 ordered, have a light 34 here anyway), then 5 days while customs inspected it. So likely not typical, but I ain't getting any younger.
I have a pile of stuff waiting, XM 50/65, quarq, light cassette, cages. Campy calipers and rotors to swap for the Wheeltop, yada.
lol ok well I will be very interested to here how you build goes.
I hope it goes well!
Still waiting for Patrick review
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
That is a sweet colour looks to nice to race!
Well I'm sure they will also do this style in other colours :D
I am getting close to pulling the trigger ot sure what my weight weenie breatharian would think thought ! ;D
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
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I am currently considering this frame (or the LCR017-D) but I am not entirely sure yet.
Would be my first self build bike anyway and I have been indecisive for over a year now ::)
I'm curious how tall the people are that buy the 58.
I'm 194cm and the Specialized Website would recommend a size 61 for me. It does have a 591mm stack though, which I would instinctively say could work out.
And does anyone know what TanTan is recommending for max rider/system weight?
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I'm curious how tall the people are that buy the 58.
I'm 194cm and the Specialized Website would recommend a size 61 for me. It does have a 591mm stack though, which I would instinctively say could work out.
And does anyone know what TanTan is recommending for max rider/system weight?
I'm 190cm and ordered 58 and 110m stem lenght. I've asked GC Performance (he is building lot of original SL8) about size and he suggested 58.
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I also got told yesterday that my frame has a delay of 5/10 day in production. Was kind of expecting it really. Im not in a hurry and for what I pay to wait a 1/2 weeks more is ok.
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I also got told yesterday that my frame has a delay of 5/10 day in production. Was kind of expecting it really. Im not in a hurry and for what I pay to wait a 1/2 weeks more is ok.
So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
Maybe ask for only a matte clearcoat and no paint and leave out the "raw" part?
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I wanted to order the frame in dark matte blue (like RedBull F1 Car/ Pantone 296C) but even Tantan said that they would not recommend the matte Finish because it scratches very easy. I am not sure right now. I have a Matte Black Rose Bike which does not have any scratches after 1 1/2 Years but I don't know if the paint quality from Tantan will be as good. My Airwolf frame seems to scratch more easily even tho it is glossy.
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
I payed March 13th. So 18 days which is ok and as I said it is really ok for me to wait a bit. Based on the times which I have read in this forum I expect it to arrive at the beginning of May. And yes the language barrier is real.
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So how long have you been waiting so far?
Well I’m almost there just trying to explain to Vivian I want a RAW/naked Matt carbon finish not an actually raw unfinished frame ;D
Appreciate English is not first language but trying to explain is hard work!
But will get there in end!
At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
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At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
Yep sorted and trigger pulled!
After payment, the shipment will be completed in 20-25 working days.
Shipping to the UK: about 10-18 days.
The factory has been very busy recently, and the orders have increased dramatically.
Thank you.
May get actual RAW frame and get it finished myself as lead in is only 7-10 days fir this but that’s also bars and seatpost
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
Hi,
by chameleon white do you mean pearl white?
I was also looking at Ryet saddles...which model did you get?
Thanks
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Hi,
by chameleon white do you mean pearl white?
I was also looking at Ryet saddles...which model did you get?
Thanks
Ryet 3D Aircode 155mm with carbon shell
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwTllLE
Pearl white is different.
Chameleon white https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC3tCBTtIZ1/?igsh=MW82bmRjazg2cmltMg==
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A week ago I also ordered a frame in size 58. Chameleon white.
In addition, wheels from Peter - 50mm/50mm (1160g), Shimano 105 di2, 3D Ryet Saddle, OSPW Ryet, Titanium SpeedPlay pedals and Magene P505 powermeter. I hope that in mid-may the frame will be delivered
Are these XM-wheels? Do you mind elaborating on the specifications and price for the wheels?
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Pearl white is different.
Chameleon white https://www.instagram.com/reel/DC3tCBTtIZ1/?igsh=MW82bmRjazg2cmltMg==
The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
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Yep sorted and trigger pulled!
After payment, the shipment will be completed in 20-25 working days.
Shipping to the UK: about 10-18 days.
The factory has been very busy recently, and the orders have increased dramatically.
Thank you.
May get actual RAW frame and get it finished myself as lead in is only 7-10 days fir this but that’s also bars and seatpost
Cool. Curious as to why you folks with actual sl8's are ordering these...
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Cool. Curious as to why you folks with actual sl8's are ordering these...
less expensive second bike for Winters in UK.
Plus i buy western brands and I also follow Chinese products closely as well, as but them.
I had a second bike Winspace SLC2.0 with hyper wheels but It was a little to small and I am bored so need a new project.
Tan Tan X68
XM Carbon speed Wheels 60f 65 & Carbon Crank
Ultegra Di2 Groupset
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less expensive second bike for Winters in UK.
Plus i buy western brands and I also follow Chinese products closely as well, as but them.
I had a second bike Winspace SLC2.0 with hyper wheels but It was a little to small and I am bored so need a new project.
Tan Tan X68
XM Carbon speed Wheels 60f 65 & Carbon Crank
Ultegra Di2 Groupset
Sorry for the off-topic but may I ask which carbon crank you plan on using? Thanks in advance.
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Sorry for the off-topic but may I ask which carbon crank you plan on using? Thanks in advance.
Well I have literally just purchase some wheels from DFS Carbon (based in Xiamen)and also there crank.
Have ordered a set of 60-65mm deep 25mm inner width Superlight T1000 UD Paintless Rims 20-20H H-Works Hubs which are generic as everyone seems to be using these and 5mm at carbon spokes.
Cranks is 170mm UD Raw Gloss with 24mm Ti axle including Alu spider, again this design is generic like they are all but they have tested against Cybrei Eliliee THM sram etc well allegedly they sent data.
doing managed to get the wheels and cranks with delivery tax free (thats i take with a pinch of salt
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The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
Don't think so. But I don't have a frame yet so can' confirm for 100%
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After bought and build several Velobuild frames I would like to go ahead with this frame as a next project.
But as always, I’m doubting about the paintjob.
Does anyone has experience with an ice crack paint job? Is this the same quality as a ‘normal’ paintjob?
It costs 3times as much as a standard paintjob (90 vs 280) so I want to be sure that at least the quality is the same.
Any other opinions why not to go ahead with this paintjob, please give your comments.
I added a picture from a different frame to give you an idea about the paintjob if you are not familiar with this.
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+1 on that. The layup know-how is with the factories, not the brands, at this point, i'm pretty sure. Westerners don't like going to and spending time in China. Some brands will do in house prototypes, you'd have to trust that the factory would replicate the layup - i'd question that. Most brands don't do any layup, they ask the factory to get the frame to be that stiff in that area, to weigh that much, and voila. I'm convinced that if you're not on the factory floor, you don't know your product. Especially in China.
People locally talk, they learn, they switch companies, they start their own thing, they moonlight. Techniques are getting better, know-how is getting better, and know-how is spreading.
On price, i heard that the factory that makes frames for Factor charges Factor less than $500 per frame...
Now, can you buy a fake SL8 and get something indistinguishable? No idea. But we're not talking rocket ships. And with tyres getting bigger, all this air will mute a lot of differences. And even if back to back, you may be able to tell the difference, ride whichever frame 5x and you'll probably forget how the other one felt. For probably 90% of riders (the last 10% would be racers, sprinters and the likes).
Speaking of know-how, these are the words of CEO Colnago in an interview: "We have the V Series which, like almost all racing bikes made in the world, comes from Asian countries (China and Taiwan). And not for price reasons but because they have developed notable skills on carbon there".
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Speaking of know-how, these are the words of CEO Colnago in an interview: "We have the V Series which, like almost all racing bikes made in the world, comes from Asian countries (China and Taiwan). And not for price reasons but because they have developed notable skills on carbon there".
Well I agree with Serge_K
Things i have noticed in the last 4 years have taken a massive leap, and yes knowhow is spread.
Joe Whittingham also say this in his YT China Cycling channel or interviews he has had with other you tubers.
People move around gain knowledge an pass knowledge on so everything keeps getting better and the Chinese have caught on and are developing there own brands as that is where the $$$ is
Xiamen obviously is where at is at for the industry
Xiamen Shenzhen/Guangdong
Specialization in Bike Frames ✅ Yes, major hub ❌ Not primary
Carbon Fiber Application Mostly bicycles & Wheels More tech & drones
Production Costs Lower than Shenzhen Higher labour & land costs
Presence of Big Brands Many OEMs/ODMs Few frame makers
I'm very very interested to see this frame when I receive and build it against the real thing, it may possibly get to a point where I stop buying the western brands
Same is for watches I have well a pricey watch and now the $1000 copies are near on indistinguishable and need experts to make assessments to there authenticity, as people are getting caught out buying as genuine which may just happen with the bikes.
I buy a real one and a copy and get it same colour decals etc and dont register real frame and sell it with warranty there you go!
And before anyone says anything no I am not planning to do this I do have a moral compass!
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Well I have literally just purchase some wheels from DFS Carbon (based in Xiamen)and also there crank.
Have ordered a set of 60-65mm deep 25mm inner width Superlight T1000 UD Paintless Rims 20-20H H-Works Hubs which are generic as everyone seems to be using these and 5mm at carbon spokes.
Cranks is 170mm UD Raw Gloss with 24mm Ti axle including Alu spider, again this design is generic like they are all but they have tested against Cybrei Eliliee THM sram etc well allegedly they sent data.
doing managed to get the wheels and cranks with delivery tax free (thats i take with a pinch of salt
Do you have a link to where you purchased the wheels and cranks? I have not had luck searching. Thanks
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Rebel
Like TAN TAN I contacted by WhatsApp
I can give you number if you want or email but have been chatting on WhatsApp
Names Angler: +8618850007287
Looking at 2-3 weeks before sent
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The color seems to have shades of pink....can you confirm or am I seeing incorrectly?
Its not pink, its a pearl white. The pearl is very reflective and color shifts based on ambient. Photo of my frame which is same paint.
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Rebel
Like TAN TAN I contacted by WhatsApp
I can give you number if you want or email but have been chatting on WhatsApp
No website
Names Angler: +8618850007287
Looking at 2-3 weeks before sent
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Thanks. I can handle it.
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attached the mia in size 56.
Is that UD Black matte or black matte?
Hows the build going?
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Just got info that my frame is finised and shipped out. I ordered/paid mine on the 16th of January. Also got some pics from the Tantan guys before they packed and shiped it out. :)
dovh did they send you paint sample via email for this colour?
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At tan tan, they call this "UD matte". That's also what I ordered :) They also sent some exemplary photos, which looked good...
Can you post the photos they sent?
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Sure. Examples are raw, "UD-matte" and "UD-glossy".
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Sure. Examples are raw, "UD-matte" and "UD-glossy".
Thanks Makl :D
I have changed my frame now to UD Glossy
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
So what are your thoughts on the Ryet OSPW? Just noticed it on the bike hows it performing as I was planning on for my build
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What was the cost + paint + shipping for a frameset?
I realized tariffs just started lol
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What was the cost + paint + shipping for a frameset?
I realized tariffs just started lol
UD Matte or Gloss Frame and Bars $589 (AS YOU KNOW CUSTOM PAINT COLOUR PRICE VARY UP TO $150USD)
Headset/Thru Axles $20
Shipping $150
paypal 5% $36
Total $795
Or Patrick price with an email to Vivian $0usd Lol
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So what are your thoughts on the Ryet OSPW? Just noticed it on the bike hows it performing as I was planning on for my build
I must say that it's my first time using any OSPW, so besides it looking cool, I'm not sure what benefits it brings. :D The shifter's performance is amazing, and it shifts almost instantly and precisely. It didn't make it any worse, for sure. I would recommend the Ryet OSWP. My friend recommended it to me, and he's also happy with it.
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The SL8 battery holder that clamps with the expanding holder via Screw works just fine on the TT X68, have mounted it just now. Sits well in the seatpost! Bike is finally ready. Bit heavier than expected/hoped for. 7.5 kg with Ultegra Di2 11s, Equator 45 with Pirelli PZero TLR 32mm, 11-32 ZTTO cassette, Onirii pedals, Sram Red cranks. Will be a fair bit lighter with the new wheelset and 28mm Conti GP5000 S TR
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I must say that it's my first time using any OSPW, so besides it looking cool, I'm not sure what benefits it brings. :D The shifter's performance is amazing, and it shifts almost instantly and precisely. It didn't make it any worse, for sure. I would recommend the Ryet OSWP. My friend recommended it to me, and he's also happy with it.
dovh thanks for getting back to me :D
I have pulled the trigger and ordered this OSPW
I am almost doing a mirror build of my Genuine SL8 as I have the Ceramicspeed OSPW and well this does look very good!
I also have have ordered a Ryet Saddle and some other bits.
Hoping to get this build down to sub 6.8kgs
How the bike riding?
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dovh thanks for getting back to me :D
I have pulled the trigger and ordered this OSPW
I am almost doing a mirror build of my Genuine SL8 as I have the Ceramicspeed OSPW and well this does look very good!
I also have have ordered a Ryet Saddle and some other bits.
Hoping to get this build down to sub 6.8kgs
How the bike riding?
Nice stuff! It's very similar to what I ended up with. I also got a direct mount but did not use it since I felt it didn't fit on there very well. Compared to the hanger Tantan sent with the bike, the edge around thru axle hole and screw hole were quite a bit higher, and when mounted to the bike, it was sticking out inwards.
As for how the bike rides, I only have about 40km on the bike so far, and it feels really good. It's stiff but not uncomfortable, but then again, I can only compare it to the entry-level aluminum bike I had before. This is miles better in terms of riding comfort and feel in comparison.
Also, I'm about to head out for a 100k ride today, so we'll see how it feels on a longer ride :)
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Nice stuff! It's very similar to what I ended up with. I also got a direct mount but did not use it since I felt it didn't fit on there very well. Compared to the hanger Tantan sent with the bike, the edge around thru axle hole and screw hole were quite a bit higher, and when mounted to the bike, it was sticking out inwards.
As for how the bike rides, I only have about 40km on the bike so far, and it feels really good. It's stiff but not uncomfortable, but then again, I can only compare it to the entry-level aluminum bike I had before. This is miles better in terms of riding comfort and feel in comparison.
Also, I'm about to head out for a 100k ride today, so we'll see how it feels on a longer ride :)
Good to know about hanger hmmm well if it does not fit well i can bin it ;D as well who know when the frame arrives hopefully earlier tan estimates!
Main thing to hear is there are no issue with the frame and yes give feedback on your 100K :D
Enjoy your ride!
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Is that you Black people or black people?
Hows the build going?
I have already finished it, after about 300km with it I can say that everything is going perfectly. I have had some problem with the tightening of the seatpost, but usually everything is correct.
I don't know if to attach photos since I have vinylized it with specialized logos and I don't know if this is the right place to do it.
I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
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I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
Eissen quotes a weight (with a photo) of almost 100g less than tantan, so I don't think the source is the same, regardless. I think the headset bearings may also be different sizes.
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Eissen quotes a weight (with a photo) of almost 100g less than tantan, so I don't think the source is the same, regardless. I think the headset bearings may also be different sizes.
From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
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I have already finished it, after about 300km with it I can say that everything is going perfectly. I have had some problem with the tightening of the seatpost, but usually everything is correct.
I don't know if to attach photos since I have vinylized it with specialized logos and I don't know if this is the right place to do it.
I must also say that looking at images of Eissen I firmly believe that it is 100% the same replica, I do not think it will be built by Tantan.
Is that problems with the seatpost rail clamps or the frame clamp?
Any issues myself I will buy a genuine one only £20
If it’s the screw and barrel I have a spare and some fine carbon paste will sort it
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Good to know about hanger hmmm well if it does not fit well i can bin it ;D as well who know when the frame arrives hopefully earlier tan estimates!
Main thing to hear is there are no issue with the frame and yes give feedback on your 100K :D
Enjoy your ride!
It was a bit shy of 100k, but it was a really nice ride. The front brake had some issues, but that is unrelated to the frame.
The ride was really nice, and the frame felt really good. I did some quick sprints on to the small hills, hitting over 900w, and all was good, no creaks or anything. On my old bike, I would sometimes hear brake rub and some strange noises from the bottom bracket area when doing similar power outputs (though not measured) on the same sections.
I'm still surprised by how hard/stiff yet comfortable the frame feels. It may be normal for carbon frame bikes, but this is my first experience with one.
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From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
Peter is replying to me..
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Peter is replying to me..
Where has he been hiding ;D
Christ imagine turning on his phone and seeing WhatsApp!
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From what I have been sent unfinished unpainted frame weights are broadly similar within 5% which is generally the accepted tolerance.
So it’s just splitting hairs personally I don’t want a copy as light as my genuine frame which painted 54cm is 700grams
I’m hoping the Tan Tan I have ordered comes in at claimed weight which is there finished at around 836grams
I’m gonna do a sheet to predict weight but I am aiming for 6.8kgs predald and bottle cages.
Anyway Tawain Eisen Peter appears to have gone AWOL so I’m glad I ordered from TanTan!
No argument here about not wanting an Sworks weight clone. As cool as some of the Specialized paint jobs are, I'm a little creepy about TE's marketing of direct counterfeits. But as to the post above that the frames are from the same source or are identical, no. The photos attached are from Tantan and TE's websites and show weights that aren't 5% different, but more like 100g. Again, I don't know that the lighter bike is a good thing...
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^^^^^^
My Tarmac SL8 Pro in a size 56 came in at 827g.
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Ahhh my bad
836g Tan Tan is 52cm
And Vivian at tan tan also sent me these photos of RAW frames
771G and 797G no idea what sizes though
And the red frame 56cm came in at 870g
So of my 54cm UD glossy comes in under that Im happy!
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Vivian said on whatsapp that this frame is “ on hold” right now. Wondering why they stopped the production. QC issues?
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Weird. The frame isn't listed on the seraph page anymore. I paid beginning of february and they havn't even finished the frameset yet.
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There are interviews of the dude from Specialized whose entire job is to hunt down fake Specialized stuff. If the guy found a way to claim that Seraph is doing more than a clone - and you can expect Specialized to be the worst patent troll imaginable, because this brand has shown to have no spine over and over again -, that could explain why seraph would go dark.
For reference, a friend of mine, IP lawyer, helped Amazon patent the most random stuff related to conveyor belts, with the explicit aim to prevent the competition from using conveyor belts efficiently. These companies have weaponized patent trolling to extents that are unimaginable to the average Joe. My friend ended up quitting law, she is an engineer & lawyer by training, she was absolutely disgusted by what she was asked to do for these companies.
It would be interesting to know whether there’s even a patent on a bike frame like the SL8. I mean, it’s obvious that certain features can be patented, but I doubt that this applies to a specific geometry or tube shape. And in contrast to a lot of other sellers, Tantan is not painting fake logos on it.
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You can patent features of a frame, but there's nothing on the sl8 that's patentable except maybe the unique front fork construction.
But the logos etc are trademarked. TE and others that are selling logo'd frames are vulnerable to enforcement, and I don't doubt that Specialized would go after them. It could be that whomever is actually producing the frame has had threats such that they've paused until its sorted, or that demand for the logo'd frames was integral to their production plans.
FWIW, my frame was held for 5 days for customs inspection last week before being released for shipment.
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Vivian said on whatsapp that this frame is “ on hold” right now. Wondering why they stopped the production. QC issues?
Could be anything, really.
If you’re American, no offense—but Donald Trump is currently shaking things up, so if you’ve ordered this frame, it might end up costing more.
I noticed the frame is now showing as unavailable on the Seraph site. I ordered mine last Monday, so maybe demand has outpaced supply and they’ve had to pause sales—who knows.
Did you ask why the frame is on hold?
Could be something to do with Specialized, but the frame doesn’t have any branding, and from what I’ve heard, it’s difficult to enforce patents and copyright laws in China anyway.
Specialized are an American company, so they might not have much legal leverage over there.
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hmm not good to hear. I hope mine will still be shipped out. Ordered it 13 of march.
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hmm not good to hear. I hope mine will still be shipped out. Ordered it 13 of march.
Are you going to message TanTan to see if you will still receive your order.
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Are you going to message TanTan to see if you will still receive your order.
Of course, I already did, no response yet but today is holiday in china afaik.
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Of course, I already did, no response yet but today is holiday in china afaik.
Well I sent an email to see if this affects current orders.
Hopefully it does not!
It still on the seraph website like I said but unavailable.
And this is on Vivian WhatsApp
It is not a public holiday in China today.
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Well I sent an email to see if this affects current orders.
Hopefully it does not!
It still on the seraph website like I said but unavailable.
And this is on Vivian WhatsApp
It is not a public holiday in China today.
Had this reply.
‘Dear Stephen.
Regarding your TT-X68 order,
We are currently waiting for further notice.
Once there is stock available for shipment,
We will arrange shipment for you as soon as possible;
If we are unable to meet your order requirements in the end,
We will also process a refund for you.
Please be patient,
We expect to give you a clear reply next week.
Thank you for your patience and understanding!
Best wishes!
Vivian’
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I got also an answer now, as I said, I ordered my frame on march 13th and they will send it out most likely next week which I am very happy about.
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I was about the finalize my order 2days ago when I got the notification that sales are on hold.
I have asked for the reason (too high demand, QA issue, IP issues, ... ), but they couldn't reply, but confirmed it wasn't a QA issue.
If it was a question about too high demand I would assume they prolongue their leadtime to get the orders in the book, or even communicate this reason. So I also don't think this is the reason of the suspension.
So I assume there are some IP topics that are being handled for the moment. but that's just my assumption based on the feedback and apparantly also Peter from Taiwaneisen has blocked all communication since a couple of days (as there are counterfeits, I can image this is being investigated). So all combined I have a feeling some investigation is ongoing on some sellers.
but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
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I was about the finalize my order 2days ago when I got the notification that sales are on hold.
I have asked for the reason (too high demand, QA issue, IP issues, ... ), but they couldn't reply, but confirmed it wasn't a QA issue.
If it was a question about too high demand I would assume they prolongue their leadtime to get the orders in the book, or even communicate this reason. So I also don't think this is the reason of the suspension.
So I assume there are some IP topics that are being handled for the moment. but that's just my assumption based on the feedback and apparantly also Peter from Taiwaneisen has blocked all communication since a couple of days (as there are counterfeits, I can image this is being investigated). So all combined I have a feeling some investigation is ongoing on some sellers.
but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
I think you can check out the the sp cycle R088. I would get something like that if they would stop my frame.
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I sent an email yesterday morning and no response from tan tan.
these Chinese are really smart, they paint the frames with original writings and even the UCI certificate, making practically identical copies. (tiwaneise) huh
if you have to copy they are very good, if you have to use your brain, they don't have it
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Hmmm. Have to say I'm over the whole experience. I'm at 80 days, no bike. Its been in transit 2 weeks and hasn't left China. And if it arrives, its now going to cost an extra grand if they declared full value, and at that price I could have bought a used genuine sl7.
Its odd that my bike was held for inspection in customs a couple of days before it disappeared from sale. I have to wonder if that's related.
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As we know, it’s all just conjecture at this point.
Tan Tan likely has a lot of sales tied up in this frame, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re misleading people to keep the money flowing.
That said, most people have eventually received their orders—albeit not as quickly as they’d hoped.
If no one ends up getting their frames, though, they might be forced to issue a ton of refunds. And while their reputation for customer service and communication isn’t exactly stellar, that kind of situation wouldn’t be good for them either.
Maybe they’ve just gone quiet for a week to see how things unfold.
When I have whatsApped Vivian I have got a reply and I did enquire about the X69 (LAB71) but they no longer do this either as would have swapped.
On a related note, another seller of counterfeits claimed that Peter from Taiwan (Eisen) has been arrested. I have no idea if that’s true. They even sent me supposed photos of their “factory,” which turned out to be nothing more than a Lumar colour clip of a bike being sprayed— ;D. I called them out on it, and surprise surprise—they didn’t like it and ended up blocking me.
If it does go south I am currently looking at alternatives
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but my actual question as I was about to order. Can anyone point me in the direction of a similar frameset from this or another respectable seller? It doesn't have to be a SL8 copy, but a similar geometry is what I'm looking for.
I've been riding my SPCycle R088 since January. Bike rides great. It's practically the same frame as the X68 with EPS molding, but UDH, mechanical cable routing and a standard looking head tube design (no air sniffer head tube). It's also weighs less (mine weighed 790g in size 52cm with hangers) and it costs a bit cheaper.
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I've been riding my SPCycle R088 since January. Bike rides great. It's practically the same frame as the X68 with EPS molding, but UDH, mechanical cable routing and a standard looking head tube design (no air sniffer head tube). It's also weighs less (mine weighed 790g in size 52cm with hangers) and it costs a bit cheaper.
You know what? I hadn't really looked at SPCycle, let alone the R088 frame. It really does look like the SL8 but without the obvious butt sniffer. Same geometry, BSA BB, seatpost, and fork design too.
This might actually be the way to go for consumers looking to avoid any stigma of riding a straight up clone. How much does the frame cost?
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And meanwhile on facebook people are saying that some of the bigger counterfeit sellers are in prison due to the SL8 copies. There is no difference between these frames and the copy from the pictures I saw.
Proof me wrong.. but could be all coincidence ...
Those counterfeit sellers just paint good no name frames if you ask me and sell those.
Would love to see proof that I'm wrong.
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And meanwhile on facebook people are saying that some of the bigger counterfeit sellers are in prison due to the SL8 copies. There is no difference between these frames and the copy from the pictures I saw.
Proof me wrong.. but could be all coincidence ...
Those counterfeit sellers just paint good no name frames if you ask me and sell those.
Would love to see proof that I'm wrong.
Prison? Nah. Patent infringement is a civil thing. Ordered to cease business? Yes thats possible.
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
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In the end too much demand seems like the most plausible cause.
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Well they have three sites
tantancycling.com not showing
seraphbikes.com showing unavailable
tantanbikes.com you can buy full bike and frames from still
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
Guilty as charged.... :) No reply on Insta yet
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Guilty as charged.... :) No reply on Insta yet
Well I have no idea what the deal is!
I have messaged from another account and they are still selling the frame
$589usd
$150usd shipping
Shipping in 20-25 days
with shipping takimg 10-18days
yada yada yada.
Then message for an update on the "on hold" situation and get told I will get an answer next week and not to worry!
Hard not to wory when your told frame is on hold and then they are still sellimg the frame, makes you think what the hell is going on!
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I was one of those people saying prison on Facebook ;D but I did say this was from another seller of frames and whether it was true or not was another thing. A few sellers may have gone to ground until thing down, or maybe the supply chain has been temporarily disrupted but again this is conjecture.
Anyway Tan Tan still posted a frame today on Instagram looks like a repost of Dovh's bike built up. Think its strange they postedit considering its on "hold" and some has already asked if its available as they heard it was on hold, was that anyone one here?
Yeah, that's my frame/bike build they posted on IG. I messaged them about what durability tests they are doing for this frame but got just a generic response that all tests were done and QC passed. I also sent them the picture since we talked about whether I could send it when the bike would be finished.
With the "on hold" situation, it might very well be that they have a high demand for the frame or are waiting for clarification on some tariff stuff. They might be scared that they will have to pay more for shipping and are now waiting before they send it out to get money from customers up front instead of getting it back from them.
I am glad that I managed to get mine before this issue.
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Well I have no idea what the deal is!
I have messaged from another account and they are still selling the frame
$589usd
$150usd shipping
Shipping in 20-25 days
with shipping takimg 10-18days
yada yada yada.
Then message for an update on the "on hold" situation and get told I will get an answer next week and not to worry!
Hard not to wory when your told frame is on hold and then they are still sellimg the frame, makes you think what the hell is going on!
Indeed, i'd be worried to. Keep us posted, since I really prefer the look of this frame over the spycycle r088 :)
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Well lots of contradictory information coming from Tan Tan at the moment!
Frames on hold but taking new orders and reposts of Dovhs frame on two of there Instagram post.
Could well be to do with Donald Trump puffing his chest out lol ;D, and costing everyone more money >:( :(
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Indeed, i'd be worried to. Keep us posted, since I really prefer the look of this frame over the spycycle r088 :)
The R088 does look a little more like the SL6 in my opinion.
And I like the integrated cockpit frame myself more than a traditional head tube,
I like the SL8 look myself but have beSen looking at some alternative like the Winow WR054 but that is a beast of frame about 1290g in medium UD forks are 570g, seatpost 270g and the bars are not too bad at 350g so, also the Hong Fu (Avenger) Shuttle SL is $900usd in the 750g or $800usd for 870g and that is a good looking bike but need to look at the OEMS because as you know they have the same moulds
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Answer from Vivian today..
"Your order is OK.
Please don't worry.
Thank you."
Ordered 19th march to europe. Will see how it develop
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Answer from Vivian today..
"Your order is OK.
Please don't worry.
Thank you."
Ordered 19th march to europe. Will see how it develop
Well:
"Suspension of Sale only temporary.
The problem being solved now.
Ready for sale."
We would all love to know the problem! ;D
Latest update:
ok I have had a response.
"The quality of the frame is no problem. So don't worry.
Its a matter of whether our molds can be sold This one has no effect on the previous purchase"
So what they're basically saying the issue was with whether they were allowed to keep selling that particular frame (probably due to licensing or copyright concerns) but it doesn't affect any frames that have already been sold.
Still pressing for more info!
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So I'm curious as to how they declare complete bikes. I have a 2k bike in route, in what appears to be one package (one t/n). They did send the bits with batteries separately. But the bike has been in transit 15 days, hasn't moved for the last 4, was customs inspected for 5, and was shipped China Post (grrr). And today the orange buffon that is our President increased tariffs for non de minimis shipments to 104%.
So my 2k bike now is likely 3.5k or 4k, if they declared full value. If they didn't, I'm very likely to get hassled by customs given the pressure.
Buyer beware. I'm thinking of just walking away if the bike ever actually gets here and I get a 1.5k bill.
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Ok another update now Ber put me onto a seller/manufacturer.
Seems quite honest and Ber did say he was straight up
Now he has told me production of the replica is 3-4 months with delivery.
read message screen shots this may explain why some sellers have gone AWOL.
He did have stock frame but a selection with pre sized bars which are no good.
May ask Tan Tan about this and request a refund if necessary
In the context of China, the Market Management Department (often referring to the Market Supervision Administration or 市场监督管理局) is a government authority responsible for:
Regulating product quality and safety
Overseeing intellectual property rights (IPR)
Investigating counterfeit or replica products
Managing business licensing and fair market practices
If you’ve been told they’re checking replica frames, it likely means there’s an investigation into whether a frame design (like the one you ordered) may be infringing on a brand’s copyright, patent, or trademark—often because it’s too similar to a well-known brand’s design.
This could explain why Tan Tan paused sales briefly—they might be under review or being cautious while waiting for the outcome of that check.
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Well I had a text this morning and it’s looks:
I have good news for you:
For the TT-X68 order that has been paid,
all supply links are running normally,
and your order is progressing steadily.
Thank you for your trust and support for our products,
I wish you a happy life.
Best wishes.
Vivian.
I did question and disruption to production as the quoted 20-25 days meant I get the frame end of April.
Reply was:
20-25 working days.
Please take note. Thank you.
I will report to you when there is an update.
No estimated date at this time. Thank you.
Anyone else with an order have any news or updates?
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I mean yes. As I said I paye on march 13th and a few days ago she told me frame will be send between 12th to 18th April. Lets hope.
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it sounds like these frames are flying off the shelves. I spoke with a chinese seller saying that chinese factories aren't focused on bikes like the pinarello X or BMC roadmachines because the chinese population is young and wants to ride the bikes from the TDF.
Point being, pretty sure that for those buying these SL8 clones, your money is competing with chinese money, so the whole planet wants that frame. Well done specialized :)
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it sounds like these frames are flying off the shelves. I spoke with a chinese seller saying that chinese factories aren't focused on bikes like the pinarello X or BMC roadmachines because the chinese population is young and wants to ride the bikes from the TDF.
Point being, pretty sure that for those buying these SL8 clones, your money is competing with chinese money, so the whole planet wants that frame. Well done specialized :)
One of the sellers I spoke to yesterday, as I mentioned, said the wait time for an SL8 is around 3–4 months—but he could get me a Dogma F in just 1–2 months.
I also asked about the Scott Addict RC Pro, and he mentioned that the wait would be even longer, since it's not a particularly popular model and isn’t held in stock. It would have to be made and added to the production queue along with the SL8s.
So yes, it seems like everyone is going crazy for the SL8s right now!
I also spoke with another seller—Cherry, I think, from Champion Bicycle or something similar—who said they aren't affected by the long wait times and claimed their frames are high quality. But let’s be honest, they all claim that!
I'm just happy to be back on track with Tan Tan, but I’m taking their timeline with a pinch of salt. Some buyers are still waiting for delivery, but these delays will be out of Tan Tan’s control. Hopefully, they can stick to the 20–25 day production time they’re quoting. It’s also great to hear about other people’s experiences with Tan Tan.
And yes, I am putting Spec decals on the frame—some may not agree, but I’ve got a real SL8, so that’s my excuse! I'm going for matte black decals over a gloss UD carbon frame. These are from Speedy Decals, although I recently found out I can get decals from a Specialized-approved painter in the UK for half the price—so I’ve ordered a set to compare quality.
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And yes, I am putting Spec decals on the frame—some may not agree, but I’ve got a real SL8, so that’s my excuse!
That reminds me of that Friends episode where Joey buys Porsche gizmos because he wishes he owned the one parked next to the coffee shop :D
You dont need a stranger on the internet to tell you it's illegal, you do you!
What's really interesting to me is the fascination with the SL8, over everything else. It's got to be the brand at least as much as the performance of the frame. In which case, it's to be expected that people would want to put fake logos on it. I have a president who married a dude, so really, who am i to lecture anyone on false advertising? :D
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That reminds me of that Friends episode where Joey buys Porsche gizmos because he wishes he owned the one parked next to the coffee shop :D
You dont need a stranger on the internet to tell you it's illegal, you do you!
What's really interesting to me is the fascination with the SL8, over everything else. It's got to be the brand at least as much as the performance of the frame. In which case, it's to be expected that people would want to put fake logos on it. I have a president who married a dude, so really, who am i to lecture anyone on false advertising? :D
;D I dont think I am at risk of the authoritied breakimg don my door at 5am!
Plus, it will be subtle
This thing is I'm a bit of an S-Works fanboy..... or sucker, if prefer ;D
Iv had the SL6, Venge, SL7 and now SL8
Some people are not fans but if you have not had or ridden or owned one how can an opinion be formed.
They have all been great bikes. Well the Venge was a git of a bone rattler...
Out of all the copies the SL8 is probably the lightest available.
And as s weight weenie i want to build one up using less expensive parts and see how light I can get it. I'm pretty confident 6.8kgs or under
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I suspect that given the outright trade war, China isn't interested at the moment in protecting any US ip. Can't blame them.
My frame was 60 days from order. However, that included New Years and paint.
I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike in terms of ride quality in relation to performance. Whether that carries over remains to be seen. The falloff in US demand should help purchasers in your situation.
After some communication back and forth I'm hoping that I don't have a tariff issue. The electronics were shipped DHL due to the batteries so the package should come in under de minimis if it arrives by 5/2.
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I suspect that given the outright trade war, China isn't interested at the moment in protecting any US ip. Can't blame them.
My frame was 60 days from order. However, that included New Years and paint.
I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike in terms of ride quality in relation to performance. Whether that carries over remains to be seen. The falloff in US demand should help purchasers in your situation.
After some communication back and forth I'm hoping that I don't have a tariff issue. The electronics were shipped DHL due to the batteries so the package should come in under de minimis if it arrives by 5/2.
Well I did see an American post of a video of Chinese government officials pretty much saying that they can make the same thing better, quicker and cheaper so I think its possible there government has now given industry free rein! Its also online they are considering giving counterfeiters free rein! So have a search.
Well I will not lie the SL8 is lovely to ride an it is more comfortable in the rear than the SL7 i was riding the SL8 last year at 95kgs and there was no issue.
Now IM 20kg down inevitably its even more comfortable. A bike can make a difference to comfort but rider weight is also an obvious factor to.
Was not aware of the battery thing as I have ordered a power meter to accompany the wheels and carbon cranks I have ordered.
The supplier was kind enough to source me the XCADEY PM for $265 and ship it, and had to be shipped separately because of the battery, dont think he knew either ;D
60 Days sound about right so hopefully my order will not be that long.
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I was speaking to a cycling apparel brand who's factory is based in China. Like the majority of brands. They told me they can't get their new summer collection here to the USA because of the tariffs.
I asked them:
1. The factory wont ship, because they are waiting on how to proceed with the tariffs?
2. Or the factory wants you the brand to simply to pay high price tariffs to release the shipment?
The brand said it's a combination of both - the current tariff is 145%. So there is no way the factory would eat that cost (nor would it be fair to make them eat it). That's basically the brand's entire profit margin. If not more.
I bring all of this up because TanTan would probably fare better in the eye of consumers if they just offered a little more transparency. I don't think the issue is rooted in SL8 IP. It's that they don't wanna eat the tariff costs on prepaid pre-tariff frames, while also not pissing off customers in queue. All they have to say is: "Hey we are waiting on the tariff situation before proceeding."
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They don't eat the cost. What's dangerous to the consumer buying with all this uncertainty is that you pay, say 2k for a complete x68. They ship. When it arrives in USA, the shipper either holds it and sends you a bill for the tariff (currently 140% or roughly 1400) plus brokerage fee and cpb fees, or delivers it then sends you a bill for that amount. YOU, the importer, pay the tariff, not the shipper.
Shippers are using low declared values to qualify for de minimis for now or low buyer expense later, but that's a risky proposition.
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I think the interest in this frame has to do with the stellar praise of the actual bike
yes, it is said that it goes better than the original.
come on let's fly a little lower ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I'll say it again: come spend cycling holidays in France, we can build your bike there, you cycle for a week or 2, and you fly back :) You'd land in Geneva and cycle in Jura.
Are you from region?
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Seems a few of the manufacturers are on hold in China at the moment while they tray to figure out what to do about the tariffs.
Its off topic but I had a message from an OEM (wont say who they are yet) today asking of I was interested in the Quick Pro frame, which I was surprised about!
Wonder now if everyone who may have excess product is now trying to maybe off load some inventory
They have not given me a price yet but will find out Monday, quite possibly they could be selling at RRP
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Seems a few of the manufacturers are on hold in China at the moment while they tray to figure out what to do about the tariffs.
Its off topic but I had a message from an OEM (wont say who they are yet) today asking of I was interested in the Quick Pro frame, which I was surprised about!
Wonder now if everyone who may have excess product is now trying to maybe off load some inventory
They have not given me a price yet but will find out Monday, quite possibly they could be selling at RRP
Interesting, keep us posted! Even for 1k, i wouldn't buy it, going fwd i'd rather buy fast frames with higher stack, i think. With the economy where it is, with the western bike industry where it is, selling a frame for 1.8-1.9k that has very little brand / residual value in the 2nd hand market is a tough sale, i think. The reality is that the markup on a frame at this price point is extremely high, yet the brand value is extremely low. On top of that, this frame looks quite bland, and their aero claims are just vibes, it seems.
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Interesting, keep us posted! Even for 1k, i wouldn't buy it, going fwd i'd rather buy fast frames with higher stack, i think. With the economy where it is, with the western bike industry where it is, selling a frame for 1.8-1.9k that has very little brand / residual value in the 2nd hand market is a tough sale, i think. The reality is that the markup on a frame at this price point is extremely high, yet the brand value is extremely low. On top of that, this frame looks quite bland, and their aero claims are just vibes, it seems.
Well something is up if the OEM is selling the frame they make for a brand!
Anyway Tan TAN are back in full swing X68 popped back up on main site and is not available back on the Seraph Site!
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Yeah so a local racer here just contacted me telling he ordered an X68 in the same size I ride, size 56.
He said once the frame is in his hands and built, he's happy to let me demo it. The lord giveth...
This is his order:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DHlFrh1PBn_/
How much closer is this to becoming a Reality Patrick!
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Awesome paint job.
I ordered two frames, one ud black and one painted, not with a bit so fancy colour.
I'm bad in Photoshop and even worse in explaining stuff to Chinese people, so....
Anyway, paid 4 weeks ago and no proper feedback from Vivian so far.
Asked for a timeline to get the frame shipped and she only sends generic answers.
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Here's a picture of the fully mounted bike. The first walks on it are being very pleasant.
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Here's a picture of the fully mounted bike. The first walks on it are being very pleasant.
Where did you order decals? or chinese done it for you?
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Where did you order decals? or chinese done it for you?
Tan Tan
Will not put specialized on the frame.
I have ordered from Speed Decals
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Hey everyone,
I'm new here – and I think this is actually the first time in my life that I've signed up for a forum. Usually, I'm more of a silent reader who enjoys going through comments on all kinds of topics.
But enough about that – let me quickly introduce you to my SL8 AliExpress Frankenstein project:
Frame: SL8 Size 58, pearl white matt – from Peter in Taiwan
Wheels: Elite Wheels ENT
Groupset: Ltwoo eRX 3.0 from Panda Podium
Brake Discs: ZTTO – 160mm front / 140mm rear
Saddle: Ryet 3D Carbon printed
Tires: Schwalbe Lugano 700x32C
Lately, I’ve been following discussions both here and on Facebook, and I have to say – it seems like @Sander2177 is always the most up-to-date with what's going on.
I’ve already tried a few tricks to get in touch with Peter (different account, calls, even asked AliExpress support for the seller’s email). What's curious is that the person managing the AliExpress account seems to be active almost daily. So far, he’s only read one of my messages – no reply yet, though.
Technically, Peter still has 7 days left to process my order before AliExpress automatically refunds me. So now I’m just waiting to see if he manages to get things moving before the deadline.
Just like many others here have mentioned – right before the holidays, I was told my order was ready for shipping and would be processed on the Monday before he "disappeared" (March 31st). It’s now been three weeks... I placed the order back on March 20th..
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Surprise, surprise, seller of counterfeits turns out to be dodgy - hopefully you end up with your money back and have learned a lesson.
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Yeah, let's see. I'm already considering TanTanCycling as Plan B....
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Yeah, let's see. I'm already considering TanTanCycling as Plan B....
I like to keep my ear to the ground, and I’ve been chatting with a few sellers lately. It seems Chinese authorities have started cracking down on sellers pushing poor-quality products—apparently in response to legal action from (I’m assuming) Chinese nationals. What’s interesting is that these shutdowns don’t seem to be about counterfeiting, which you’d normally expect, and that in itself is a bit surprising.
Obviously, you’ve got to take this kind of info with a pinch of salt, but I’ve had a few sellers say similar things. Just last week, Tan Tan pulled the X68 from sale for a few days, but it’s already back up. YOHO Bike also disappeared for a week and has now returned. I’d genuinely love to know what’s going on behind the curtain.
I’m trying to educate myself and gather as much information as I can to better understand how things work when buying from these kinds of sellers—just so I can properly assess the risk. For me, the risk feels higher when buying from places like Taiwan Eisen, YOHO, Champion Bikes, or Airwolf. They all claim to be manufacturers, but let’s be honest—that’s mostly BS. Most of them are traders. Tan Tan, on the other hand, appears to be a legitimate factory (though whether they actually manufacture this specific frame is still unclear). They do have a reasonably good reputation, even if communication isn’t their strong suit. That said, I emailed Vivian about a custom paint request—I'd selected UD Raw Carbon Glossy—but apparently my order had already progressed to the point where they couldn’t change it. If they were just out for my money, they probably would’ve said yes anyway just to take more from me. So that gives me a bit more confidence.
As for the whole "how can they even make this frame?" question—well, I’ve looked through a bunch of patent info, and I haven’t found anything from Specialized in the US Patent Office that directly covers this frame design or anything close. So if there is any issue, it’s likely to fall more under trademark infringement than an actual patent violation.
I fully accept the risk I’ve taken with my purchases. But unfortunately, a lot of buyers don’t realize what they’re getting into. And I’m not really sure how dependable AliExpress is when it comes to refund claims—it’s definitely not eBay. So yeah, I hope you get your money back.
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^ I've been digging around a bit. The sl8 isn't specifically patented that I can find, but it appears that the sl6 or 7 is-D865574(search here https://ppubs.uspto.gov/pubwebapp/static/pages/ppubsbasic.html). Since most of the design elements of the sl8 are almost identical to the sl7, I suspect its not been patented as its covered by the prior patent. Sworks Tarmac sl8 is trademarked. Whether Chinese authorities will enforce these patents remains to be seen, but I suspect that its enough to make folks nervous given Specialized pressure.
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^ I've been digging around a bit. The sl8 isn't specifically patented that I can find, but it appears that the sl6 or 7 is-D865574(search here https://ppubs.uspto.gov/pubwebapp/static/pages/ppubsbasic.html). Since most of the design elements of the sl8 are almost identical to the sl7, I suspect its not been patented as its covered by the prior patent. Sworks Tarmac sl8 is trademarked. Whether Chinese authorities will enforce these patents remains to be seen, but I suspect that its enough to make folks nervous given Specialized pressure.
And here I thought I was the sleuth!
Well if there is no patent on the frame design we’ll
Can blame Tan Tan a lot more SL8 counterfeits than the old SL7
So maybe Specialized dropped the ball a little but patents from what I known can be notoriously difficult to register.
Anyway I’m so intrigued to see how this compares to my Gen SL8 I won’t lie I’m excited.
Feedback from everyone who has the frame has been positive part from the longer than quoted manufacturing times and lengthy deliveries.
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I sent 3 emails to seraph these days to understand the shipping times of the frame. zero answers. strange, last year I contacted them for another frame and they answered me quickly
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I sent 3 emails to seraph these days to understand the shipping times of the frame. zero answers. strange, last year I contacted them for another frame and they answered me quickly
Well I was quoted 10-18 days however Tan Tan cannot be held responsible for shipping times are these are estimates set but the shippers themselves.
Have they quoted a shipping service to you at all?
If so go to the shippers website
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Well I was quoted 10-18 days however Tan Tan cannot be held responsible for shipping times are these are estimates set but the shippers themselves.
Have they quoted a shipping service to you at all?
If so go to the shippers website
more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
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more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
Just think about the volume of emails and messages Vivian and Rose must get every day I would
only assume if they cannot keep up emails will inevitably get missed so be patient.
Have you the WhatsApp numbers? If not give these a try I find these are the quickest way to get a reply myself.
Vivian Ttian +86 136 9093 8214
Rose Huang +86 188 2485 0694
They have been quoting 20-25 days for X68 frame but I’m assuming depends on frames.
To be honest I have been dealing with Vivian and the response via email and WhatsApp has been fine
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I mean yes. As I said I paye on march 13th and a few days ago she told me frame will be send between 12th to 18th April. Lets hope.
So any update on your frame have the posted it tiz92?
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So any update on your frame have the posted it tiz92?
Yes today. I will need to wait more 7-10 days. I think they send it not before beginning of may but I dont have stress. They told me they had such a high amount of orders that the painting facility is very far behind. Thats the reason why they stopped orders for some time.
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more than shipping, i wanted to know how long it takes to build the frame. i know roughly that shipping to eu with prepaid tax takes about 3 weeks. but they didn't answer me. mystery
[/quote
Thanks for the update.
I actually asked about custom paint options on Monday, but was told I they could not change my paint option so UD glossy it is!
What about you—what did you go for in terms of paint?
Is it a full build or just the frame? And if it’s frame-only, what are you planning to build it up with?
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I also asked that if the limiting part is the painting if they could send me the raw frame in the case its ok to ride. I dont care at all about the colour.
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I also asked that if the limiting part is the painting if they could send me the raw frame in the case its ok to ride. I dont care at all about the colour.
I was originally told a raw, unprinted frame would take 7–10 days when I first enquired.
But getting it painted here in the UK was estimated at around £500, since the frame would likely still need prepping—almost the cost of the frame itself—so it just didn’t make sense.
I had been looking at a finish called Chromacoat Fireball. I had a frame painted in it a few years back and it looked badass—black, red, and gold. It’s not a colour Tan Tan offers though.
The idea of custom paint only came about after visiting a new local bike shop that opened over the weekend. They had a Trek TT bike in a green-purple flip finish, and it looked stunning. So for an extra $100–150 USD, I thought—why the hell not?
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today i sent an email to tan tan, and jessi answered me immediately. great. i requested a no paint frame, i will paint it myself, the price is attractive at 589 instead of 629 dollars. but the tan tan site does not have the automatic payment procedure that the seraph site has. how can i pay on the tan tan site?
he did not specify the production times of the frame or if it was already available in stock.
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If you give her the go ahead she'll send you an invoice along with payment options-paypal, wise etc.
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If you give her the go ahead she'll send you an invoice along with payment options-paypal, wise etc.
thanks
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btw does anybody have experience in using a raw carbon frame without any colour or "protection" coat? Is that even possible. I find varying answers online.
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today i sent an email to tan tan, and jessi answered me immediately. great. i requested a no paint frame, i will paint it myself, the price is attractive at 589 instead of 629 dollars. but the tan tan site does not have the automatic payment procedure that the seraph site has. how can i pay on the tan tan site?
he did not specify the production times of the frame or if it was already available in stock.
I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
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btw does anybody have experience in using a raw carbon frame without any colour or "protection" coat? Is that even possible. I find varying answers online.
Why would you want a frame with no finish at all?
High-end frames like those from SWI or the Masterpiece series by BMC sometimes use this approach—similar to UD (unidirectional) paintless carbon rims. However, achieving a flawless raw carbon look is extremely time-consuming, as any imperfection becomes immediately visible.
Large-scale factories typically don't have the time or precision to pull this off consistently. Most frames will require sanding, the addition of filler to address imperfections, and then a proper finish to achieve a clean and consistent look.
So you can but the frame is going to look Sh1t!
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I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
These links maybe of some help
https://youtu.be/f4gSbvdK0Mw?si=DY-Ig8ECD-1py0rq
https://youtu.be/1mO_n91GjKA?si=MnrN6z2x4Jrj0HDw
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My Seraph/ TanTan TT X 68 Build - Size 54 - Matte Black
6.94kg - $2900ish all in. Weight is plus or minus 50gwith grease, and misc hardware not accounted for.
I acquired most of these parts used over the course of 4-5 months, via ebay and facebook. I learned about most of the build options, not named shimano, from this site or via youtube (GC Performance, Pat Lino, China Cycling, etc...). I also built this bike by myself, first time ever doing a frame-up build, and used GC's SL8 bike build and his other videos.
Frameset - $629 + $100 shipping. Took about 2 months to receive.
Frame w/ headset bearings, bottle cage bolts, fd mount, rd mount - 878g
Uncut Fork - 339g Cut Fork - 309g (10mm spacer)
Uncut Seatpost w/ hardware - 166g Seatpost Wedge - 20g
Thru Axles - 62g
Bar/ Stem 120/38 - 326g
Spacers and Covers - 15g
Garmin Mount - 28g (kinda sucks on first impression, will be looking for alternatives)
BSA30 BB - 88g
Aliexpress SL8 Direct Mount RD Hanger - 15g (saves 8g)
CRW 50/55 Wheelset - 1325g
MT900 160/140 Rotors - 187g (pair)
Aliexpress Tubeless Valves - 11g (pair)
Sunshine Cassette 11-32 - 230g
Vittoria Corsa Pro Control Cream 28 Tubeless - 633g (should be 520g for the pair according to BRR.com)
Amazon CL Rings - 23g (pair)
Stans Sealant 40ml per tire - 60g
Shimano ST-R8170 - 399g
Shimano BR-R8170 - 300g (bolts, pads, calipers)
Shimano FD-R8150 - 112g
Shimano RD-R8150 - 250g
Shimano BT-DN300 - 52g
Di2 Cables - 16g
Sram Force 170, Quarq PM, 53/39 Chainrings - 753g (old sram powerglide chainrings)
KMC X12 Gold - 243g (uncut was 273g)
Brake Hoses - 35g (approximate. I subtracted the excess)
Aliexpress Carbon Bottle Cages - 48g (pair)
Ryet 3d Ultralight 143mm - 165g
Deda Tretaforo Bar Tape - 35g (40g uncut)
R8000 Ultegra Pedals - 248g
Future Weight Weenie Options:
HY Seatpost - 130g - $167 (saves 36g)
Avian Canary - 266g - $300 approximately (saves 60g)
BDOP 11-30 Cassette - 126g - $160 (saves 104g)
Xcadey/ Lexon 53/39 - 600g - $615 (saves 153g)
J&L Axles - 47g - $40(saves 15g)
Tofu Comtura Prima 28 Tires - 480g - $120 (saves 153g over current tires)
Wheels - 1150-1200g - $800 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Saddle - 100-130g - $40 to infinity (plenty of options here)
Hey y'all, long term review here. I built the bike in January 2025, rode it on the trainer for about a month, and have ridden it outside 3-4 times a week since mid February. I have raced it once. I've got somewhere close to 500 miles on it at this point, maybe more.
Frame: it works, but cant speak to how it compares to other disc brake bikes. I do feel as though it is responsive to putting power down, but maybe not super snappy and that could be several other factors. My previous cervelo r3 rim brake was extremely snappy, but I was also very aggressive when riding that thing. The only "issue" I've had is with the headset cover deal rubbing on the frame itself, instead of floating a .5mm over it. Could be my fault when I built the bike, but going to chalk it up to the part being slightly off. For my first disc brake bike, I have really enjoyed riding it and I'm looking forward to going full weight weenie with it over the next year. I would highly recommend this frame for anyone going the china frame route.
Bars: I went with the 120/38 bars. The bars appear to be exact copies of the specialized bars. They are quite comfortable and have a large aero foil shape to them. I'm not entirely sure where they measure the stem, but this "120" stem has the same length as a 110 stem on another set of bars. I haven't noticed any serious deflection when sprinting, but I'm around 67kg and doing 1200 watt sprints. I don't like the computer mount that's included because it doesn't lock into the handle bar like a traditional 2 bolt under stem mount does. It gets the job done, but I'll be upgrading in the future.
Wheels: The CRW's are fantastic. Aero and lightweight. Seating tires is no issue.
Groupset: its ultegra di2, it works, nothing more to say. the aliexpress cassette works fine, and is only slightly less smooth than a shimano cassette.
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I'm curious to see the finishes of the raw frame, especially the thru-axle and dropout stops.
Maybe post some photos before painting the frame, thanks. ;)
yes, It will be in July, if the times are like this
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Very good news from my side. The frame was send out today. I excpect 3 weeks to get it.
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Very good news from my side. The frame was send out today. I excpect 3 weeks to get it.
I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
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I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
LOL. Mine landed in the USA 6 days ago, no tracking updates, called usps today and its out for delivery to me today, finally, on day 93 since payment. Will assemble and ride over the weekend.
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LOL. Mine landed in the USA 6 days ago, no tracking updates, called usps today and its out for delivery to me today, finally, on day 93 since payment. Will assemble and ride over the weekend.
Jesus 93 Days! and when did you order again and what was the original duration? did they keep you updated at all?
That's double what they claim, I might be putting Christmas decorations up when it comes! :-\ ;D
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I thought they said another 7-10 days yesterday? anyway regardless good news!
Hopefully the post will not take 3 weeks! Watching the slow ass tracking daily is killer! ;D
I think they dont know exactly how fast the painting factory is. I think they outsource that part and thus have less control over the whole process thus sometimes they can be faster or slower. Nevertheless 3 weeks is quiet normal, I reguarly buy chinese wheelsets and around 20 days is normal but Im fine with that I dont have any stress.
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I think they dont know exactly how fast the painting factory is. I think they outsource that part and thus have less control over the whole process thus sometimes they can be faster or slower. Nevertheless 3 weeks is quiet normal, I reguarly buy chinese wheelsets and around 20 days is normal but Im fine with that I dont have any stress.
I ordered the same day as you (13.03.25), and also was notified today that my frame was shipped out. Did they send you a photo of your order as well? In the photo they sent me, the seatpost looks a bit short. I hope they didn't send the short version (I ordered frame size 56). Also the frame looks rather black matte, although I ordered "UD matte", however that wouldn't be a dealbreaker...
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Mine is here. Initial impressions-well packed, wheels and frame in single box (size 49). My bike shipped 160/160 rotors (wheeltop build) . Rotors are low end shimano. Crank (going in bin) is senix, rings look same brand but ok.
As far as the fork goes, the distance between the points for the mount on the fork is 60mm. The adapter does not appear to be reversible for 140, but I'm not taking it off for now as I'm running 160 anyway. Will update when I mount campy calipers in a couple weeks.
The seatpost binder is even branded (tarmac) so suspect the Hylix post will fit for those wanting zero.
The chameleon white is stunning in the sun.
Only niggle so far is paid for the 3d saddle and didn't get one. have one here.
Build report in a day or so.
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I ordered the same day as you (13.03.25), and also was notified today that my frame was shipped out. Did they send you a photo of your order as well? In the photo they sent me, the seatpost looks a bit short. I hope they didn't send the short version (I ordered frame size 56). Also the frame looks rather black matte, although I ordered "UD matte", however that wouldn't be a dealbreaker...
No foto, they just asked me if the shipping adress was correct.
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Mine is here. Initial impressions-well packed, wheels and frame in single box (size 49). My bike shipped 160/160 rotors (wheeltop build) . Rotors are low end shimano. Crank (going in bin) is senix, rings look same brand but ok.
As far as the fork goes, the distance between the points for the mount on the fork is 60mm. The adapter does not appear to be reversible for 140, but I'm not taking it off for now as I'm running 160 anyway. Will update when I mount campy calipers in a couple weeks.
The seatpost binder is even branded (tarmac) so suspect the Hylix post will fit for those wanting zero.
The chameleon white is stunning in the sun.
Only niggle so far is paid for the 3d saddle and didn't get one. have one here.
Build report in a day or so.
Nice from memory in the WW forum wheee some gripes that only 160mm rotors could be run up front and have not seen any posts i can recall of anyone running 140mm however may be wrong
Look forward to the build report b
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The real sl8 is 160 only as Specialized used a spacing on the fork mounts that's unique to it and the Aetheos, supposedly for mass reduction. It won't take a 140 mount. Its only a problem for Campy users as the stock Campy road front caliper is native 160 (the mount is cast into the caliper) and doesn't work on an Sl8. The solution is to use a rear caliper and the stock Specialized mount w/ the 160 rotor. Ekar calipers are cheapish and identical to the road 140 other than matte finish and logo.
Normal flat mount spacing on the fork is 70mm, this fork and the actual sl8 measure 60mm
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A couple additional notes. First, everything was very well faced. Maybe due to that I ordered it as a built bike and that was an advantage, or maybe they just do a nice job. I did pull the bb to replace with a ceramic, and the finish level interior is at least as nice as the photos posted.
The crankset they sent I scoffed at, but its actually ok, 780g w rings, direct mount 3 bolt sram style, 24 mm. I'm not going to use it as I have a carbon sram here with a quarq.
I did have a very minor issue with the seatpost, I had ordered all matching gold anno bolts for everything. The kit for the seatpost came with a gold barrel, and it was set for the oem post and about a half mm larger than tantan's. Fixed it by reaming the post, but the tantan barrel was visually smaller, so not a tolerance thing but an actual difference.
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A couple additional notes. First, everything was very well faced. Maybe due to that I ordered it as a built bike and that was an advantage, or maybe they just do a nice job. I did pull the bb to replace with a ceramic, and the finish level interior is at least as nice as the photos posted.
The crankset they sent I scoffed at, but its actually ok, 780g w rings, direct mount 3 bolt sram style, 24 mm. I'm not going to use it as I have a carbon sram here with a quarq.
I did have a very minor issue with the seatpost, I had ordered all matching gold anno bolts for everything. The kit for the seatpost came with a gold barrel, and it was set for the oem post and about a half mm larger than tantan's. Fixed it by reaming the post, but the tantan barrel was visually smaller, so not a tolerance thing but an actual difference.
This is good news bro that you got yours, is the chameleon white comparable to the stock white non s works specialized version?
do you have a dealer near you that you could compare the colors with?
Lastly, post some pix and vids bro flex that beautiful frame, thanks!
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Sorry for the slight off topic, but as this is the most active "fake" thread, i might as well post it here.
There is definetly some prosecution happening behind the curtain in the fake Scene. The "Chinese Bikes" Facebook groups, where replicas where the main topic of conversation, got deleted. Maybe due to the replica-talk, maybe for other reasons...
I dont know what leverage the authorities have on chinertown, and i hope this forum will not be affected.
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Hey all, we have almost finished the build yesterday.
It's not entirely finished, but I have to wait with the handlebar tape until I get to the bike fit guy to set it up properly for me.
Here is the photo of the almost finished bike. It weighs a little over 8kg in size 58 and has quite heavy wheels and tires. With better wheels and tires that I hope to get soonish(tm), I should be able to save around 500-550g with that alone.
Some notes from building the bike. Brakes, we're not that hard to center. It took some finicking, but my friend managed to do it in about 20 minutes or so. Routing cables and hoses were also not that hard, but be careful so you don't drop the metal plate holding the front derailleur in the seat post tube. It was a pain to finagle it back in place.. Otherwise, everything was relatively straightforward. The headtube was finished nicely, and the bearing sat firmly there with no play. Also, the gap under the spacers is not bad after compressing it (see picture).
Can't attach pictures here. It crashes the page, so it's here on google drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AEk9xj3Kvf6tfcz9mtWzV21S3gj--7qY?usp=sharing
hello nice creation. can i ask you what height your saddle is? thanks
and one last thing: what handlebar measurements did you take?
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So any updates on the possibility to use 140 mm front brakes?
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So any updates on the possibility to use 140 mm front brakes?
See my posts from yesterday. I believe the answer is no.
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Photos. Chain in the wax pot, so not installed. Bike ships with computer mount, but I used a magcad and its very secure. Rear varia mount from esty.
Weight is 7.1 kg. Will get below 7 with caliper and rotor swap and some odds and ends.
Its a divisive topic, I know, but its going to get gold graphics from Speedy Decals.
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Photos. Chain in the wax pot, so not installed. Bike ships with computer mount, but I used a magcad and its very secure. Rear varia mount from esty.
Weight is 7.1 kg. Will get below 7 with caliper and rotor swap and some odds and ends.
Its a divisive topic, I know, but its going to get gold graphics from Speedy Decals.
Yep divisive with the decals so much so I have also ordered a set from Speedy Decals
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I am curious to read ride impression from people who own/rode a real SL8
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I am curious to read ride impression from people who own/rode a real SL8
I have an S-Works SL8—before that, I had the SL7 and the Venge. It’s not as stiff as the Venge that was a harsh ride, but it’s equally stiff as the SL7, just noticeably more comfortable, thanks in part to the skinny rear stays. It’s fast on the flats, but also a great bike for climbing—responsive and snappy.
Anything else you’d like to know?
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
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hello nice creation. can i ask you what height your saddle is? thanks
and one last thing: what handlebar measurements did you take?
Thanks!
it’s 774 mm, and the cockpit I got is 420mm with 90mm stem.
Also a bit of an update, i have now almost 300km on the bike and it’s been mostly without any issues.
I had garmin mount bolt come loose but now it’s fine after adding loctite to it. The other thing is the seat post clamp is making some clicking noise and the saddle slips down ever so slightly, will add more carbon paste and hopefully it will stop.
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
Bike looks great!
Any plans to go weight weenie a little and get the weight down with some other parts
Also be great to see the decals on once you get them, as I am wondering if they are going to be easy or a faf to install
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¡La bicicleta se ve muy bien!
Cualquier plan para ir peso weenie un poco y bajar el peso con algunas otras partes.
También sea genial ver las calcomanías una vez que las obtenga, ya que me pregunto si serán fáciles o una prueba de instalación para instalar
[/cita]
It depends on how meticulous you are, I spent two hours of my time installing the decals.
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¡La bicicleta se ve muy bien!
Cualquier plan para ir peso weenie un poco y bajar el peso con algunas otras partes.
También sea genial ver las calcomanías una vez que las obtenga, ya que me pregunto si serán fáciles o una prueba de instalación para instalar
[/cita]
It depends on how meticulous you are, I spent two hours of my time installing the decals.
I’m a like ocd lol
So think I can cope with a few hours lol.
Are they just difficult to apply?
Was hoping they be relatively easy
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Bike looks great!
Any plans to go weight weenie a little and get the weight down with some other parts
Also be great to see the decals on once you get them, as I am wondering if they are going to be easy or a faf to install
Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
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Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
Great thanks for the Advice
Like yourself I’m not applying the specialized decals either just to much
Having dark matt purple decals over the Gloss Black UD.
Also have a Roval decal for the bars
Just a waiting game now :-\
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I have an S-Works SL8—before that, I had the SL7 and the Venge. It’s not as stiff as the Venge that was a harsh ride, but it’s equally stiff as the SL7, just noticeably more comfortable, thanks in part to the skinny rear stays. It’s fast on the flats, but also a great bike for climbing—responsive and snappy.
Anything else you’d like to know?
Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
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Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
I think you guys crossed wires, Sander doesn't have his x68 yet, its on order.
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Wow that's crazy that such a cheap frame can offer such a good ride quality comparable to the genuine sl8. That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the reply mate
Gelpore is right! ;D
I thought you meant the real SL8!
I Will give you my thoughts will be a few weeks yet though!
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Prom dress.
Initial impressions, only 15 miles in a 20 mph wind. It's very comfortable for a performance bike, didn't notice the carbon spokes at all, but hey, I've never ridden anything with a really wide (26 int) and a 30. So I'm not qualified.
The position is aggressive, but I'm 65 and can ride it so long as the hoods are reasonably high.
It doesn't feel cheap, that's for sure. Does it feel like an sl8 pro/expert? Dunno. My guess is close.
Wheeltop? Man,it shifts fine. The app is difficult. Press the bluetooth thing or nothing happens. No one tells you that.
The fd shift is low in casual mode. Theres a guy on facebook that has a bootleg app that separates out race mode from sleep(oem app kills sleep if you select race), and I suspect that'll greatly improve fd action. Rear action is plenty quick.
Looks amazing bro congrats on the build!
Just wanted to know which size frame is this beauty? your handlebar stem and width?
and which wheelset is this?
Lastly how is the quality of the speedy decals? are they easy to put on?
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
Can we get picture of your build.
Not enough photos on this thread of X68 builds
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Here you go :)
Not the perfect picture, because mid of ride :D
Went with 45mm wheels from Easedon, SRAM Red cranks, and Ztto cassette paired with 11s Ultegra di2.
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Looks amazing bro congrats on the build!
Just wanted to know which size frame is this beauty? your handlebar stem and width?
and which wheelset is this?
Lastly how is the quality of the speedy decals? are they easy to put on?
Its a 49. Saddle height for reference is 67.5. Bars are 110/38. While on that subject, the Rapide is a gorgeous shape, but I'm not sure I like the reach (which is short when I run levers in my preferred up position with a smooth transition from top at bend to lever top-when I try to get forearms on tops not enough reach) or the drop (its a very full drop and I prefer compact). I'm hoping someone clones or comes close to the new Enve integrated bar with the slight rise, I could eliminate a spacer and still be more comfortable.
The wheels are Xiamen Carbon Speed, 50/65, 5mm carbon spokes. 1330g.
Speedy decals are nice, I've used them on a number of projects. Full review of installation a couple posts above. Easy enough if you're not trying to cover an existing logo, which is harder. They will scale the decal up slightly if you're doing that and let them know.
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First 800km in with the bike, rides really great, quite comfortable (not sure if this is my wheelset or the frame). Feels quite stiff nevertheless, but didn't do lots of sprinting with it yet. Only downside is an annoying creaking I can't locate, could be anything from bottom braket to seatpost.
Funny, I also have a slight creak under power. Suspect I might not have the lockring tight enough.
I know ztto cassettes get grief on ww and other forums, but my gen 2 12 speed has been great so far, as have several OG 11 speed ones. Yeah, the alu cogs eventually wear but at the price they're great.
Is that a D1 or E1 crank?
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Funny, I also have a slight creak under power. Suspect I might not have the lockring tight enough.
I know ztto cassettes get grief on ww and other forums, but my gen 2 12 speed has been great so far, as have several OG 11 speed ones. Yeah, the alu cogs eventually wear but at the price they're great.
Is that a D1 or E1 crank?
I can exclude the locking of the cassette as it's the same with different wheelsets. Funnily it's only when seated, might be seatpost or saddle. I like the 11s casettes from Ztto all Gen2 really well, they shift quite well and I don't worry about their wear that much. It's the "old" Red crank so should be D1.
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I can exclude the locking of the cassette as it's the same with different wheelsets. Funnily it's only when seated, might be seatpost or saddle. I like the 11s casettes from Ztto all Gen2 really well, they shift quite well and I don't worry about their wear that much. It's the "old" Red crank so should be D1.
I also get creaking/clicking while seated, and it's most likely the seat post clamp against the top tube. It happens while I pedal, so with lateral pressure on the seat post and clamp. I didn't grease the clamp as described in the SL8 manual. I only put carbon paste on the seatpost. I will do it this week and report here if that helped.
In my experience, the creaking and clicking go away after reclamping the seat, and it comes back after a while. I did a 100k ride today, and by the end of the ride, it was creaking/clicking quite a lot. I got home and re-clamped it, and the noise is gone, so the noise is most likely from there.
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Here you go :)
Not the perfect picture, because mid of ride :D
Went with 45mm wheels from Easedon, SRAM Red cranks, and Ztto cassette paired with 11s Ultegra di2.
Good man!
Looks lovely
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I also get creaking/clicking while seated, and it's most likely the seat post clamp against the top tube. It happens while I pedal, so with lateral pressure on the seat post and clamp. I didn't grease the clamp as described in the SL8 manual. I only put carbon paste on the seatpost. I will do it this week and report here if that helped.
In my experience, the creaking and clicking go away after reclamping the seat, and it comes back after a while. I did a 100k ride today, and by the end of the ride, it was creaking/clicking quite a lot. I got home and re-clamped it, and the noise is gone, so the noise is most likely from there.
Yeah, that could well be the culprit. I didn't grease the wedge parts, and only put paste on the seatpost, while the manual calls for paste between the wedge and the bare carbon, which makes sense...
RTFM
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
whoah really? maybe it could have been a mix up from when they were prepping your frameset?
dude, can you link us the 3d printed mount you used and how much was that?
and mind if I ask how tall are you and your weight? are you usually racing cause you went with a narrow handlebar but a long stem eh?
By the way the picture you have posted when you have installed the gold decals, the angle looks quite odd? or is it that you need to tell speedy decals the size of the frame so they can scale it properly or due to the gold color that the decal placement looks different?
Lastly I know I will be castigated for this haha but where could we find that carbon 12r or carbon 10r decal that needs to be near the bottom bracket and the one that goes on the fork too?
sorry for so many questions LOL
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NM-just looked it up and they do measure c/c on the actual item, so keep in mind they're narrow...
Quick question-I just measured the replica cockpit on the x68, which is nominally 38 but it measures 36 c/c and 38 outside. So in road speak its effectively a 36. Anyone have a real Rapide cockpit that they can measure?
Thought it felt narrower than the 38's I generally run.
My Rapides are 40cm outside to outside
Speed decals to the Fact12R decal but as this is so small it is a single decal
Magcad mount I also gave this on my SL8
https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-roval-rapide-mount
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My Rapides are 40cm outside to outside
Speed decals to the Fact12R decal but as this is so small it is a single decal
Magcad mount I also gave this on my SL8
https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-roval-rapide-mount
Hey man thanks so much for linking the magcad computer mount? do you happen to know if there are carbon fiber version of such 3d printed mounts?
And are both decals you have attached from SpeedyDecals or just the one below?
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Hey man thanks so much for linking the magcad computer mount? do you happen to know if there are carbon fiber version of such 3d printed mounts?
And are both decals you have attached from SpeedyDecals or just the one below?
The purple decals are mine I’m having Matt Purple logos on my Gloss UD Carbon frame. Not keen on the Specilaized on the forks and chainstay I’m a less is more guy. My SL8 was repainted this year and I did not have them put back on.
The other decals are from Speedydecals site.
https://speedydecal.com/index.php?controller=search&s=SL8
But if your in the UK I know a Specilaized approved painter you can get decals from I would have ordered from them had I known before I ordered these decals. (Ooey Custom Paint)
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
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I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
Would a barrel nut not do the same job?
Or
Maybe this
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?srsltid=AfmBOopaFTJkUffOKx_O_bIMkixFrMTQwRdr8p_WNhuHQMf665VVdQh3
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whoah really? maybe it could have been a mix up from when they were prepping your frameset?
dude, can you link us the 3d printed mount you used and how much was that?
and mind if I ask how tall are you and your weight? are you usually racing cause you went with a narrow handlebar but a long stem eh?
By the way the picture you have posted when you have installed the gold decals, the angle looks quite odd? or is it that you need to tell speedy decals the size of the frame so they can scale it properly or due to the gold color that the decal placement looks different?
Lastly I know I will be castigated for this haha but where could we find that carbon 12r or carbon 10r decal that needs to be near the bottom bracket and the one that goes on the fork too?
sorry for so many questions LOL
Not a mix up. Specialized measures oddly, its 36.5 center to center on the actual Rapide cockpit. A smidge over 38 outside to outside. 39 c/c in the drops. I'm only 5'5 (165cm). I'm between a 49 and a 52 if I use specialized calculator. I knew in advance what reach I wanted based on many existing bikes and fits, and wanted the smaller frame (partially for vanity-a fair number of my bikes end up with little exposed seatpost), and I knew what stem I'd need to get the bar center where I wanted. I ride 38 bars and have for a long time. Didn't realize the way the Roval bars are measured but in the end its not a big deal, I'm already adapted to them. I would caution that if you think that's a really agressive fit you might think about the geo of the bike generally as its a pretty racy geo overall. I'd be happier with a bar with less stem angle (I really like the new enve with rise) but the cockpit is very nice generally. One thing that made a big difference in how the bike feels is to move the levers to a position that has the hood tips pointing slightly up and the transition from the top of the drop to the lever dead flat. Tantan sets them much lower, and that effectively drops the hoods riding position much lower and isn't as comfortable on the hands.
I don't think the decals look strange IRL, I think the angle that I took the photo from (standing rather than kneeling) may make them look that way. Speedy does scale them to the frame size.
I'm also of the less is more school. No FACT decals, no size decal. I did order the UCI sticker seperately.
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I also greased it up and put the paste, and no more clicking noise.
Now the funny part.. While I was at it, I wanted to also grease up the saddle clamp parts as per the manual, and when I was putting it back together, I managed to cross-thread the saddle clamp bolt and strip the thread from that little nut that the bolt scrwes into. Until I get a replacement from tantan or manage to find the original part locally, I'm not riding the bike for a while by the looks of it.. :(
Not sure where you are, but ti parts has the barrel nut for 8 bucks, better bolts has the whole assembly for 15, and the oem wedge is available from any specialized dealer or online retailer (30 usd, or 20 for an ali clone).
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Not sure where you are, but ti parts has the barrel nut for 8 bucks, better bolts has the whole assembly for 15, and the oem wedge is available from any specialized dealer or online retailer (30 usd, or 20 for an ali clone).
I'm in the EU(Czech Republic), so the shipping here would take some time, I guess. Btw, do you mean this (https://tipartstitanium.com/products/titanium-m5-m6-seatpost-saddle-barrel-nut-for-roadbike-mtb-foldie-minivelo-fixie-gravel-bike?variant=45365316190508) part?
To clarify, I snapped this part that is circled on the manual screenshot.
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Look more closely at the photo in the prom dress post, they're on.
They're tedious but not really "hard" to do. Get a squegee thing for vinyl application-amazon and elsewhere. The 2 issues with application are alignment-you don't want it to stick until its where you want it, and then the upper film removal-you have to go slow at a sharp 180 to the decal or it wants to lift the more delicate edges. If you see it start to come up, immediately go back down and over with the squegee. Follow the included instructions.
I didn't do all of the specialized logos, think its too much, just the sworks on the downtube. I did put the "specialized" for the chainstay on the inside of the fork legs for a custom look.
I'm aiming for 6.8 or 9. Not a lot of room to go. The expander was installed and I hear they're a faff to remove, so I'll leave it, rather than go extralight. The tires are tlr, but I like corsa controls in the og flavor and non tlr are getting a bit difficult to find. Already on tpu. Light Ryet saddle. Have chaser thru axles but its only 20g lighter than the clone Spec axles that come with the bike. Crankset could save 100g or so but at several hundred dollars as I'd need a different pm. I'll chip away over time.
Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
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Reporting back. Greased the surfaces of the wedge where they interface, carbon paste on side that rests against tt, creak gone.
Also my lockring wasn't hella tight.
What kind of grease did you use and where exactly did you apply it?
Thanks
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The purple decals are mine I’m having Matt Purple logos on my Gloss UD Carbon frame. Not keen on the Specilaized on the forks and chainstay I’m a less is more guy. My SL8 was repainted this year and I did not have them put back on.
The other decals are from Speedydecals site.
https://speedydecal.com/index.php?controller=search&s=SL8
But if your in the UK I know a Specilaized approved painter you can get decals from I would have ordered from them had I known before I ordered these decals. (Ooey Custom Paint)
Matt Purple Metallic?
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
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Matt Purple Metallic?
No Just Matt Purple
Think it will contrast well over a gloss frame
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
For my build I am using a DFS Carbon Crank which looks identical to my Cybrei crank on my gen SL8 running a 24mm Titanium axle instead of DUB 29mm only because I already have a bottom bracket spare. Running with XCADEY Power Meter and passquest 53-39T chainring. Same PM as other crank
All was about $500usd.
Other consideration.
Saddle I have a Ryet saddle from Aliexpress
Brake discs I have a couple of sets but may sell
them on as I run Galfer Wave.
Wanting to see without spending a shed load what weight it comes in at.
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I'm in the EU(Czech Republic), so the shipping here would take some time, I guess. Btw, do you mean this (https://tipartstitanium.com/products/titanium-m5-m6-seatpost-saddle-barrel-nut-for-roadbike-mtb-foldie-minivelo-fixie-gravel-bike?variant=45365316190508) part?
To clarify, I snapped this part that is circled on the manual screenshot.
My bad. I was thinking wedge clamp barrel, which is where my creak was. Your part is here:https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAC1tmAvmXujKe6TsjXkigO-Qb7VOj&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JzABhC2ARIsAPe3ynrqfuNXMEo72iD9B4JR5Wa3kr5nMPI2KyfFilBaL-x0uQ8loqnQIYkaArVGEALw_wcB
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What kind of grease did you use and where exactly did you apply it?
Thanks
Generic (Finish Line) bike grease on the two faces of the aluminum wedge that face each other, Park carbon paste on the seatmast and the side of the wedge that rests against the toptube.
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Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
They're reasonably durable cut vinyl. IRRC you can order them in a thin thickness for under clear or a more robust vinyl for over clear. Mine are over clear. I've used them on other builds with success, both ways.
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My bad. I was thinking wedge clamp barrel, which is where my creak was. Your part is here:https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-alpinist-upper-lower-seat-clamps-black-w-hardware-kit-s204900004/p1269982?gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAC1tmAvmXujKe6TsjXkigO-Qb7VOj&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_JzABhC2ARIsAPe3ynrqfuNXMEo72iD9B4JR5Wa3kr5nMPI2KyfFilBaL-x0uQ8loqnQIYkaArVGEALw_wcB
Yeah, I found that. I ordered the part from the local specialized service center here, and they said it should arrive sometime next week.
It's the whole assembly like the one you sent here, and just that nut part is not sold separately.
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Hello everyone,
i'm reasonably certain that I will order the frame.
I had some questions for TanTan (via the Seraph-website) beforehand which were answered by Rose.
1) maybe also for you guys information:
I asked for the maximum weight limit. The answer is 130 kg (not specified wether its system- or riderweight, but even assuming systemweight thats more than enough for me).
2) I asked what a few extra spacers would cost. Answer for that is 50 USD for 3 spacers (5+10+10 mm).
I find that a bit ... steep tbh. Dont even know if I really need them, just want to be on the safe side here.
Aliexpress does have some SL8 spacers that are at least a bit cheaper.
Does anyone know wether or not they fit? And does anyone have a recommendation?
3) shipping to europe: 150 USD via DPD - ETA 15-30 days.
I would probably also order the Garmin Mount from Seraph, for that price a no brainer I would think.
Thats would be the frame sorted ... I will still have do decide the:
- bottom bracket (or well .. whats there to decide? ... its just a bottom bracket)
- group set (probably Ultegra DI2, but I am considering a Magene P505 as crank+powermeter ... alternatively assioma favero)
- wheels (absolutely no clue yet)
...
anything else I forgot?
Feel free to give me tips and recommendations, I honestly have little clue what I am doing here as it would be my first self-built bike
A couple things-they ship the frame with the max number of spacers Specialized "allows" on the original and cut the steerer to that length. Not sure you'd want to add more, not sure the steerer tube is designed to have the bars that far up, it puts more leverage on the steerer at the bearing. Investigate further.
Any good bsa bottom bracket will be fine.
Mine shipped with the computer mount and various adaptors stock. I don't like either it or the Specialized one, used a Magcad for wahoo bolt.
Do you run a varia? If so, there's a nice sl8 specific mount on esty that is designed with a shape that matches the post and hidden bolts, its like $30.
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Once the dacal is applied to the frame, can you feel the thickness by running your fingers over it?
I will also buy a set of stickers from SpeedyDecal, and I am undecided whether to apply them under transparent (I also have to paint the frame) or over transparent.
I was also wondering if the stickers are resistant to washing and weather conditions....do you already have experience with the durability of SpeedyDecal stickers?
Thanks
I have a full set of SpeedyDecals on my SL8. Been using them for about a year now, and I've been caught in some nasty summer rainstorms as well as a full winter of riding.
Durability is just fine. No decal peeling and scuffs so far. Obviously you can feel them since the decals are applied above the frame, so i just simply pay careful attention to those areas when wiping down my bike. Highly recommended.
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Awesome paint job.
I ordered two frames, one ud black and one painted, not with a bit so fancy colour.
I'm bad in Photoshop and even worse in explaining stuff to Chinese people, so....
Anyway, paid 4 weeks ago and no proper feedback from Vivian so far.
Asked for a timeline to get the frame shipped and she only sends generic answers.
Frames still not painted after payment made on 5th of march.
No proper feedback from Vivian....starts to angers me.
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if the fork needs a crown race to be installed? When I try and slide on the bearing, it doesn't sit flush so I am curious if a crown race is needed.
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if the fork needs a crown race to be installed? When I try and slide on the bearing, it doesn't sit flush so I am curious if a crown race is needed.
No
Will be same as genuine use SL8 manual
https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/2024_TARMAC_SL8_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH.pdf
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Any good bsa bottom bracket will be fine.
If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
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I have a full set of SpeedyDecals on my SL8. Been using them for about a year now, and I've been caught in some nasty summer rainstorms as well as a full winter of riding.
Durability is just fine. No decal peeling and scuffs so far. Obviously you can feel them since the decals are applied above the frame, so i just simply pay careful attention to those areas when wiping down my bike. Highly recommended.
Hi Patrick,
since you have to paint the frame, do you think it is better to apply them under clear for greater durability and/or less attention during washing?
Thanks
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If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
I've not had issues with Sram BB's but their reputation is less than stellar. But they're cheap.
I used a ceramic BB from Acer, more expensive though. I'm not on DUB but on gxp.
Enduro BB's, Wheels Manufacturing BB's are others I've had good luck with. Token as well...
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If I want to mount a Sram DUB crankset, which BB would you recommend among these?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bicycle-bsa-dub-bottom-bracket-sealed-bearing-english-thread-68-73mm-bsa68-shell-28-99mm-spline-axis-mtb-road-bike-crank?variant=41868350161052
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/bb-dub-bsa-a1
Any other models to suggest?
Thanks
My new favorite bottom brackets are the ones from BIKONE . Really good quality and price.
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Hi Patrick,
since you have to paint the frame, do you think it is better to apply them under clear for greater durability and/or less attention during washing?
Thanks
You'll need be very careful when applying the clearcoat over the decals so that clearcoat actually adheres. The decals have a smooth surface. Very light coats to slowly building up the coat so it doesn't run/drip.
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You'll need be very careful when applying the clearcoat over the decals so that clearcoat actually adheres. The decals have a smooth surface. Very light coats to slowly building up the coat so it doesn't run/drip.
I would have a professional painter do the job, so it wouldn't be a problem.
I'm just wondering whether to apply the stickers over or under clear coat...under clear coat I would have greater protection/durability of the stickers, over clear coat I would have the convenience of being able to change them without problems if I decided to change (writing, color or graphics).
Undecided....
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Your painter is happy producing fakes and likes the idea of prison?
If you add the stickers on top, you can sell the bike as a clone by removing them before hand. Otherwise, it's a crime in most jurisdictions, afaik. It's still cringe and illegal, but at least you can play it down because the stickers are removable.
He's not going to prison. He might get a letter from a Specialized atty and have to disgorge his profits (LOL) , but trademark violation isn't a CRIME. And doing one bike isn't like being Taiwan Eissen.
I get that you cringe. But don't overblow it. And its not really malum in se to possess an item that violates patent or trademark. It is however civilly prohibited to produce same.
And yes, the reason I went with decals over clear is that they're removable and if I ever sell the bike, it would be without stickers and as an x68.
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Your painter is happy producing fakes and likes the idea of prison?
If you add the stickers on top, you can sell the bike as a clone by removing them before hand. Otherwise, it's a crime in most jurisdictions, afaik. It's still cringe and illegal, but at least you can play it down because the stickers are removable.
come on don't drink too much wine
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My confidence in tan tan is going south, 6 weeks since payment and frame not painted yet
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My confidence in tan tan ISU going south, 6 weeks since payment and frame not painted yet
You’ll get the frame eventually.
Unfortunately, I don’t think communication is Tan Tan’s strong point, judging by this thread.
They throw out 20–25 day manufacturing times (not including delivery), but 25 days for me is this Friday—and based on what I’m seeing, I’d be surprised if it’s even ready to ship.
They really should be more upfront about lead times. I think people would still buy the frame even with a longer wait, as long as expectations were clear.
I fully expect it to take longer than quoted, so it’s no big deal—but honesty would go a long way.
I appreciate it’s not what you want to hear, but it’s the truth. I think one guy waited 90 days including delivery—though that might be an extreme case, as some people have received theirs more quickly.
From what I gather, it’s the paint that causes most of the delay. I was quoted just 7–10 days for a raw frame.
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I'm the 90 day guy. I'm giving them credit for the New Year and the backlog that may have created. But I think that there is a bottleneck somewhere, either because they're outsourcing the construction of the frame or their paint shop is forever backlogged.
Realistically, I think you're looking at 45-60 days from payment to release from paint, and then shipping time (which was over 20 days to USA, but I got held up on the Asian end for customs outbound inspection).
The communication after payment and prior to shipment remained cordial but less energetic than prior to payment.
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Feedback from Vivian just now, about my order (ordered19th march)
"The frame is finished.
Waiting for warehouse processing and packaging.
I'll take a picture for you this afternoon.
Very busy.
The warehouse has not had time to process it yet."
Light in a tunnel... :P
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Did you use the special mount provided with the frame ? It looks like this :
https://www.bikegarage.cc/components/front-brake-adapter/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001-36
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Did you use the special mount provided with the frame ? It looks like this :
https://www.bikegarage.cc/components/front-brake-adapter/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001-36
Yeah, ended up running old ultegra 11 speed calipers on ltwoo.
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Looks great
But I wish they would not paint over the edges of the BB
Just means it have to be faced
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Its not ltwoo. Its Specialized. Much discussion in this thread if you look a few pages back. Aetheos and SL8 (and this clone) have unique bolt spacing in the front that requires the use of a 160 rotor and the adapter that is unique to the frame, not another manufacturer's (whether that be ltwoo or Shimano or...). Standard spacing of the bolt mounts throughout the industry is 70mm, the SL8's is 60 mm, supposedly to allow for less material and some weight savings. So the front mount is unique, and requires an adapter. It also makes 140 front impossible.
I'm not familiar with ltwoo, but if their front caliper is designed to direct mount to the fork and run a 160 rotor, that's the same as Campagnolo's front setup, which doesn't work on an Sl8. The solution is to use a rear caliper mounted to the Specialized/tantan mount in the front. Any mineral oil caliper designed for 140 for work if you use the correct barb and olive. I'm about to swap over to Campy calipers on my build to save some weight, will run dual Ekar rear calipers front and rear.
The folks making this frame should make this clear-hell, tantan specs it as 140/140, which is impossible, and they ship built bikes 160/160.
Edit-dug around, yeah, ltwoo uses unique spacing on their caliper which won't work with sl8/x68. Need to source shimano/zrace or wheeltop caliper.
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
how tall are you? How high do you take the saddle?
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I'm not a lawyer,
and luckily
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Law is black, white, and shades of grey. This looks like very dark shades of grey to me.
This is correct. For the sake of completeness, it is worth noting that this problem extends far beyond 1:1 copies of designs. If one were, for instance, to produce "funny" designs such as "Assworks", "Tractor" or similar, resembling the original style, this would constitute different shades of grey depending on the specific style and your jurisdiction.
Especially, if the aesthetics are so close to original brand’s that someone might confuse the two, even briefly, trade dress laws/copyright/design patents/registered designs are almost certainly infringed - stay careful out there people!
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
Ok so you have to wait around 60days!
Jeez and they are quoting 20-25
So the BB is actually faced as well as the brake mounts?
Hmmmm looking at photos from user posts the BB shell does not appear to be faced
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Hi Everyone,
Received my frame from Tan-Tan last week. Placed my order February 14th. 56CM in raw glossy carbon. 834g without skewers but with hanger and bolts. Ordered a separate cockpit from Aliexpress in 38cm/135mm. XM Carbon Speed 35mm wheels. I built it up with a mix of previous and current SRAM Red. Zero issues with the build. Bottom bracket and brake mounts were faced very nicely. Seatpost clamp is a little annoying if your saddle doesn't have a middle cutout. Final weight without cages and pedals is right at 6.7kg. Took it for a very light spin around the block and it feels amazing. I am a Cat 1 crit racer here in the US and my race bike is a Winspace T1550. This feels much smoother compared to the Winspace which is a super stiff full fledged race bike. I am excited to take it out for longer rides in the coming weeks.
Dang. This is the exact type of X68 build I personally love to see in here as an SL8 owner. And would order. Top notch components, wheels, and both the frame and cockpit is my size too. Curious where on AliExpress you got the cockpit from.
So I've done 6 crit races this year thus far myself. Getting back into this area of cycling has been exhilarating, but far far away from being a Cat 1 though. Your opinion on the overall bike will be super valuable.
I'm actually on the verge of selling off both my Propel and SL8. Turns out my Tavelo Arow has been perfect for crits. But if the X68 turns out to be solid, even 8/10th of a genuine SL8, then it's something I'll stronger consider for a backup bike. Been chatting with TanTan about getting a frame anyway. Truthfully though I'm pretty sure it would be tough to tell the X68 and SL8 apart with an indentical setup.
Thanks for sharing.
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So a bit of a ride review after 4 or 5 25-35 mi rides. By way of background, I've been riding quality bikes for 35 years, and have had during that time high end steel, titanium and carbon bikes. Current stable, other than some vintage steel stuff, is a Serotta Ottrott and a custom ti bike. My most recent carbon bikes were a Cento Air Willier, Supersix Evo (pre the aero change) and a custom Berk. I'm small, lightish and have am older with an ftp thats low but appropriate to age and weight.
The x68 is smooth, responsive and agile. It tracks well. We've had some big wind here the last month, and I can attest that combined with the wide carbonspeed wheels it is crosswind stable. It does get pushed a bit, but it doesn't snap in and out of yaw like I'm used to with less modern deep carbon wheels. Like an actual sl8, it likes you to get weight a bit forward on twisty high speed descents-its not twitchy but you do feel more secure if you shift weight forward a bit.
Combo of 30-32 (nominally 30, measured 32) Vittorias and the compliance of the bike make it ride very well for a carbon racebike. Does it feel plush? Not if your viewpoint is a ti or steel bike, for an agressive carbon bike its very nice. Over single bumps and cracks its very comfy. I did notice that over "broken" areas of pavement wit high frequency hits the bike does slightly betray its responsiveness and agility with a little rear end chatter, but nothing serious. The front end of the bike is not as plush as the rear, but it does, to me anyway, seem on a par with or even a little plusher than the bikes I've had with Enve carbon forks for example.
With brand new calipers pads and rotors I could generate a tiny bit of brake noise when climbing hard standing, but that seems to be going away a bit as everything settles in.
Leaving aside for a moment how close it is to an sl8, its a helluva deal for what tantan is charging. And if the actual sl8 is all that much better, it must be on another planet.
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Dang. This is the exact type of X68 build I personally love to see in here as an SL8 owner. And would order. Top notch components, wheels, and both the frame and cockpit is my size too. Curious where on AliExpress you got the cockpit from.
So I've done 6 crit races this year thus far myself. Getting back into this area of cycling has been exhilarating, but far far away from being a Cat 1 though. Your opinion on the overall bike will be super valuable.
I'm actually on the verge of selling off both my Propel and SL8. Turns out my Tavelo Arow has been perfect for crits. But if the X68 turns out to be solid, even 8/10th of a genuine SL8, then it's something I'll stronger consider for a backup bike. Been chatting with TanTan about getting a frame anyway. Truthfully though I'm pretty sure it would be tough to tell the X68 and SL8 apart with an indentical setup.
Thanks for sharing.
Here is the cockpit I ordered. No issues with it, super stiff and decently light.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806705683523.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.69d41802ewUKHH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
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Today is day 25 so surly the frame is ready!
And alas no surprise
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my frame is sent ;D ;D so in my case lead time was 27 days
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By the time all the forum reviews start rolling in, and when you account for the 60-90 day turn around time, people will be ordering their frames in early June. And won't receive them till fall LoL
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
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FINALLY ... my frame is ready to ship.
But tantan did a mistake and painted a second frame which I ordered in UD matt also in my colorsheme.
In case someone from GERMANY is interested -> Size 52, painted as shown all incl. 685 Euros shipped incl. tax!
(https://i.ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf/IMG-2310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf) (https://i.ibb.co/RGrLLX8M/IMG-2311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RGrLLX8M) (https://i.ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf/IMG-2312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf) (https://i.ibb.co/TBVnqMj6/IMG-2313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TBVnqMj6) (https://i.ibb.co/nM508KzM/IMG-2314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nM508KzM)
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
hi, but what is your saddle height? saddle/handlebar height difference? thanks
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
Yep that's how I put mine together
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my frame is sent ;D ;D so in my case lead time was 27 days
But bad when did you order yours then and what finish have you chosen?
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Mine arrived today :)!
Is the lower headset really just the bearing straight on to the carbon fork without any metal cone or whatsoever?
Same as genuine and the SL7 and the Venge
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I must be either doing something wrong or i’m just out of luck..
My seat post cracked where you insert the rear saddle bolt. I’m not sure how this can happen but i never used anything else besides torque wrench set to 6.1nm to tighten it.
I got a replacement saddle nut that i stripped (posted about it earlier) and when installing it today i heard silent cracking while tightening the bolt, stop tightening it and saw this. I think i never got even over 4nm on there. It might have been compromised by that bolt stripping earlier but i’m not really sure about it.
Wrote to tantan about a new seat post, i don’t know if they will send it to me or i’ll have to buy it but i’m out of riding the bike and i don’t know how confident i will be riding when and if i get the replacement.
Not saying there is anything wrong with the frame and everything else just posting my experience so far.. The bike was otherwise superb while riding it.
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Happened to me on a BMC, same issue.
I have professional, calibrated and fucking expensive torque wrenches, but I'm not willing to apply the advised Nm on delicate points like same clam, seatpost clamp and steerer any longer.
Torque the same clamp by hand and don't use force, you'll here it while riding on car it's too loose
Check shortlistings for a SL8 seatpost, a lot of people are seeking them cause they install a Darimo
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Man, bad luck.
I'd try tantan. IDK whether an actual Specialized post fits, but guess is it does. They're on a number of sites like ebay and FBM as folks buy zero offset or Darimo. Or Hylix is well thought of.
As to other question about lower race, a ton of bikes these days use races molded into the fork.
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The SPcycle R088 uses the same SL8 seat post. Now I regret not buying a spare when they were $65 USD on AliExpress. Now prices have shot up for US customers. Now I have to be extra careful. :-[
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But bad when did you order yours then and what finish have you chosen?
As posted page earlier - chameleon white painting and ordered 19th march
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As posted page earlier - chameleon white painting and ordered 19th march
Thanks appreciate you maybe have only posted earlier on!
Someone cannot keep up with all the posts and threads!
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My frameset arrived last week, ordered end of february. Carbon and paint quality so far so good except the fork shaft. In the section of the hole for internal brake hose routing is a dent/bump, which I have never seen before at other forks (hopefully possible to see in the pictures). I thought I could be normal, that the brake hose don‘t kink as easy as normal without this dent.
Could someone share his experience who already received this TanTan frameset? Is it normal or do I have bad luck with my fork and it is a Carbon/molding issue?
Thanks for your help.
Stay tuned for my full Build Review.
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Here are the pictures of the dent in the fork shaft.
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And another one.
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FINALLY ... my frame is ready to ship.
But tantan did a mistake and painted a second frame which I ordered in UD matt also in my colorsheme.
In case someone from GERMANY is interested -> Size 52, painted as shown all incl. 685 Euros shipped incl. tax!
(https://i.ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf/IMG-2310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rKG9r1Hf) (https://i.ibb.co/RGrLLX8M/IMG-2311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RGrLLX8M) (https://i.ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf/IMG-2312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fYFm8Kf) (https://i.ibb.co/TBVnqMj6/IMG-2313.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TBVnqMj6) (https://i.ibb.co/nM508KzM/IMG-2314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nM508KzM)
Anyone?
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Anyone?
Surely they can keep the incorrect frame and you get what you asked for?
Although you will likely have to wait
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I had to pay for my paintjob (100 dollar)
Tantan painted both by accident, so they offered to skip the fee for it and aso a 20 dollar discount.
Given that the frame would be 569 dollar paintfed + 100 dollar shipping (i paid 200 for shipping 2 in 1 box)
I would not earn $1 on it, so if no one is interested I just tell Antonia that they have to ship a UD unpainted frame size 52 just as agreed
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I had to pay for my paintjob (100 dollar)
Tantan painted both by accident, so they offered to skip the fee for it and aso a 20 dollar discount.
Given that the frame would be 569 dollar paintfed + 100 dollar shipping (i paid 200 for shipping 2 in 1 box)
I would not earn $1 on it, so if no one is interested I just tell Antonia that they have to ship a UD unpainted frame size 52 just as agreed
You might be lucky and sell it.
But essentially, what you have is an SL8 with another company’s decals, which could make it a harder sell.
Custom paint is also a divisive topic — it won’t be to everyone’s taste.
Any time I choose a custom paint scheme, I always consider resale value as part of the decision.
It’s Tan Tan fuck up and should be there problem not yours I would personally wait and get what I ordered
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
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Yes, not my fault, order was clear and got confirmed.
Will insist on a UD frame.
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.
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Could have happened to anyone.
Same thing happens with branded stuff.
Also, does everyone wind back their torque wrench after use? And does everyone get their torque wrench calibrated? Probably not.
So when this bike arrives, I’ll likely just buy a new digital one.
I’ve literally just been reading the SL8 manual as I plan the build and consider the parts I might swap or replace. I was planning to follow their manual/instructions, but really, they should supply some instructions with the frame.
Can anyone here who has one confirm this — were you sent the SL8 manual, or a tan tan manual of sorts so they supply this with there other frames?
I was thinking about this myself earlier.
Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast :D
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.
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Well yeah, I hope I just had bad luck and it's not a quality issue indicator.. Waiting now for the invoice from Tantan and hopefully it gets here fast :D
I didn't get any manual with the bike or anything, the only thing was that the expansion plug for the steerer had a QR code going to the specialized site with sl7/8 expansion plug instructions. I went with the SL8 manual as the bikes are pretty much identical with really minor differences.
The $40 for the new seatpost seems fair so that good news.
I will press for the installation instructions myself and see what they say, once I get confirmation that the frame is finished, I’ll update everyone.
As with my Venge, SL7, and SL8 builds, I won’t be using the supplied expander plug — I’ll fit a Carbon-Ti or Extralite expander instead.
I’ve already sourced some titanium bolt upgrades and a replacement front brake mount, as I’m aiming for a budget Weight Weenie build.
For smaller titanium parts like the seatpost wedge and seat clamp bolts, I’m using TAIMELI via AliExpress — they offer the same quality as TiParts Titanium but at a much better price.
And possibly Ti Thru axles if I can get a good price on Aliexpress also or maybe use my Overfast Axles and upgrade to TiMaster of the gen SL8, decisions decisions.
I’ll check if my Darimo post from the SL8 fits out of interest
I’ll likely use the supplied post, cut it down, and swap the fitting and cradle to save weight.
Trying my best to keep this build budget!
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Below is a photo of my frame in size 58, weight 890g, chameleon white - you can see the effect in the close-up photo :)
The reference is matte right?
(The specialized model)
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So I got in touch with Tantan, and they offered me a replacement seat post for 40USD, including shipping to the EU. I didn't argue with them about it. I will just pay it and hope it arrives in a reasonable amount of time.
Now, should I be worried about following the SL8 manual/documentation for this bike? Was it my fuck up or is this something that just happens sometime i was just unlucky?
I'd personally just make that bolt firmly tight. I disassembled my post to grease those surfaces and it is annoying to put back together, and I understand how you stripped that lower fastener-neither are easy to align, particularly when everything is greased. You may have damaged the post in the initial stripping. But 6nm on that fastener seems unnecessasary.
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I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).
I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.
Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?
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I finished my built. Everything went straight-forward, almost no problems (just one with the freehub). Delivery was faster than expected, communication with Tan Tan was always fast. However, they sent me a black matte frame instead of an UD matte one, which in the end didn't really matter to me. It ended up weighing 6.9 kg including pedals and garmin mount (size 56).
I wanted to try a 1-by setup with a 13 speed cassette (in order to mitigate huge gaps between cogs) which I realized with a Wheeltop GeX Groupset, a pass quest aero chainring and an Ekar cassette. It's steep where I live, so I opted for 42T in the front and 9-42 T in the back. Shifting is absolutely smooth in all cogs without any sounds or rattles! I'm really satisfied with the set-up.
Concerning my problem: The freehub doesn't work anymore as soon as I torque the through-axel to the usual force while installing the rear wheel. If I loosen the axel, everything works like intended, as soon as I tighten it, the spinning wheel will rotate the crank (not slightly, but which huge force!). Note: I converted the serenade hub to an DT Swiss N3W freehub body... Does anybody have any hints on how to solve this?
Bike looks great!
Sounds like a smooth build overall. Interesting to hear this is the second time Tan Tan has sent the wrong paint finish—did they provide any confirmation photos before shipping, or offer any kind of compensation for the mistake?
Also, when did you place your order, and how long did delivery take?
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Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025
Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).
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Ordered: 13.03.2025
Shipped: 17.04.2025
Arrived in Germany: 25.04.2025
Yes, they sent a photo together with a tracking number. I assumed that the frame was already on its way, so I accepted the wong color. They didn't offer any reimbursement or else (which is ok for me...).
Your problem with the freehub is due to bad tolerances.
When you are torquing the axle you are making contact between the freehub body and the hub body.
I guess you have to add shims between the inner race of the freehub and the inner race of the wheel bearing.
Check ebay for shims, easiest way.
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
Does everything work ok with the original serenade freehub ? If yes I assume the DT Swiss freehub is not a 100% compatible part (even though they say it is) as it's from a third party wheel.
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Got the Text this morning from Vivian :D
Frame is ready to be shipped so a total of 21 Working days from order.
54cm Frame coming in at a respectable 792g
Just need to get some more parts on the build list.
Now lets hope the shipping is not too slow!
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Does everything work ok with the original serenade freehub ? If yes I assume the DT Swiss freehub is not a 100% compatible part (even though they say it is) as it's from a third party wheel.
https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=pa%C3%9Fscheiben&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313
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My frame arrived today. Build quality is very good. All faced nicely. Size 54 matte black 799 grams. Will mount it in the next days.
Handlebar 100x380mm weights 340 gr.
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My frame arrived today. Build quality is very good. All faced nicely. Size 54 matte black 799 grams. Will mount it in the next days.
Handlebar 100x380mm weights 340 gr.
Good to hear tix92
And the bars are pretty much the same weight as the real thing
Looking forward to you build!
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Your problem with the freehub is due to bad tolerances.
When you are torquing the axle you are making contact between the freehub body and the hub body.
I guess you have to add shims between the inner race of the freehub and the inner race of the wheel bearing.
Check ebay for shims, easiest way.
Thanks for all your help! I turned a new spacer which is 0,2 mm longer - problem solved! Everything works fine now.
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
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Took mine out for a bit of a longer ride yesterday. Still blown away with the comfort and smoothness compared to my Winspace. I'll be using this bike in longer road races so I can follow up once I do a few of those. Otherwise I am superrrr happy with my purchase. For under $700 shipped to my door, it's hard to complain for a 7kg build. Only thing I am curious about is the derailleur hanger and the seat post. Are these the same as the original specialized ones?
Quick update. I've been on some longer rides and I really enjoy the bike. It is super comfy and exactly what I was looking for to do longer endurance rides and climb heavy road races. I definitely do notice that it is not as stiff as my Winspace when sprinting. Probably losing some watts so I will definitely be sticking with my Winspace for crits ;). One additional thing to note about the rapide cockpit from aliexpress; the computer mount nut that is in the handlebar is crap. It will loosen and eventually come out of the handlebar. I almost gave up on it and ordered another solution, but I was able to use needle nose tweezers to squeeze in a much bigger wing style nut into the handlebar to properly hold my computer mount. Something to note, so I would advise against ordering those bars unless you really feel like tinkering around with nuts and bolts.
Picture of my Winspace for fun ;D
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
That's about the size of the gap I have on mine. Could probably be reduced with the genuine roval spacers
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Does anyone else have this problem with the frame?
This issue has actually been discussed at length on the Weight Weenies forum regarding the genuine SL8 as well. It looks like the bottom of the transition spacer isn’t perfectly flat — it dips at the front and ends up rubbing against the top tube.
You could try lightly sanding it down using fine sandpaper on a flat surface to level it out, or alternatively, order a set of genuine spacers and see if that resolves it.
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This issue has actually been discussed at length on the Weight Weenies forum regarding the genuine SL8 as well. It looks like the bottom of the transition spacer isn’t perfectly flat — it dips at the front and ends up rubbing against the top tube.
You could try lightly sanding it down using fine sandpaper on a flat surface to level it out, or alternatively, order a set of genuine spacers and see if that resolves it.
This is exactly what I did with my frame, size 56 (but mine is from Taiwaneisen and you might think it is different…)
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Quick update. I've been on some longer rides and I really enjoy the bike. It is super comfy and exactly what I was looking for to do longer endurance rides and climb heavy road races. I definitely do notice that it is not as stiff as my Winspace when sprinting. Probably losing some watts so I will definitely be sticking with my Winspace for crits ;). One additional thing to note about the rapide cockpit from aliexpress; the computer mount nut that is in the handlebar is crap. It will loosen and eventually come out of the handlebar. I almost gave up on it and ordered another solution, but I was able to use needle nose tweezers to squeeze in a much bigger wing style nut into the handlebar to properly hold my computer mount. Something to note, so I would advise against ordering those bars unless you really feel like tinkering around with nuts and bolts.
Picture of my Winspace for fun ;D
The computer mount nut gets a lot of mentions. The one from tantan seems secure. I'm running a magcad and wahoo bolt, so the lever arm is much shorter and the mount is lighter with greater bar contact than the roval clone.
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Most of my wish list items on Ali Express either no longer ship to the USA or the link has been removed altogether.
Can't even find the ones @greengoblinbean posted anymore ;D
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Most of my wish list items on Ali Express either no longer ship to the USA or the link has been removed altogether.
Can't even find the ones @greengoblinbean posted anymore ;D
Wow you're right! Even in my order history I click the link and it's not there. Guess I got lucky as these only set me back $80 and the handlebar itself is actually great quality. Reason I went with these is because Tan-Tan's max stem length is 120 which wasn't adequate for me.
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Can someone post the exact size of the axles, pls.
Want to order a set of titanium one.
Thx
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The bars at the Aliexpress link posted by @greengoblinbean are still available to me. I'm in the UK though so it does look like Aliexpress sellers are removing the links to products for US based customers.
Those bars are currently 92 GBP for me (roughly 120 USD) so at 80 USD, they were a great deal.
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Can someone post the exact size of the axles, pls.
Want to order a set of titanium one.
Thx
I assumed the X68 thru axles were the same as the Gen SL8 which are 47grams.
Axles are one thing I have not purchased for my build yet along with seatpost hardware swaps.
I have a genuine spare set.
I have seen Chaser Titanium ones available for UK for £77 on Ali Express and they are 36.8g without hardware so not a huge saving.
Heppe ones on Ali Express I cannot find the right length but they are heavier anyway.
Have you been eying up any thru axles?
Gen Rear
142x12mm rear hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 165mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
Gen Front
100x12mm front hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 121mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
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I bought the Chasers. They're nice, but the allen key only goes in the side with threads, annoying to install.
I believe the tan tan ones are around the weight of the originals, I'll post the weight shortly.
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I bought the Chasers. They're nice, but the allen key only goes in the side with threads, annoying to install.
I believe the tan tan ones are around the weight of the originals, I'll post the weight shortly.
Ok thanks
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Thanks!
The Chaser are too expensive to be not a great weight saving, IMHO.
Thought about this ones, but they have 1.5 pitch, so not fitting
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008654728365.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.9.5a2d215doBO4do&algo_pvid=d3bc6bd6-36cf-40ff-8e06-c3577a4f44e9&algo_exp_id=d3bc6bd6-36cf-40ff-8e06-c3577a4f44e9-8&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2210%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2129.79%2121.79%21%21%21238.32%21174.32%21%40211b619a17461884136564203ef641%2112000046112311182%21sea%21DE%216344605730%21ABX&curPageLogUid=sEC8wLiQgeHK&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Gen Rear
142x12mm rear hub spacing
6mm Allen head
Length: 165mm
Thread Pitch: 1.0mm
Thread length?
Thanks
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Tantan's weigh 59 grams, so a bit heavier than Specialized.
Chaser's are a decent savings over them.
I looked around on ali for a bit and didn't see anything lighter than the stock Specialized until you stepped up to Chaser, and beyond that to Overfast and some of the other really pricy skewers.
Thread length is 13mm both front and rear.
Report back if you find anything under 40g.
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Thread length?
Thanks
Hmmmm I cannot find online the measurements
And I’m away at the moment and cannot measure the one is have but typically from memory and look at pictures it’s 12mm.
I have just literally ordered Sixweel Thru Axles €150 26-28grams will put these on my SL8 and use the Overfast on my X68.
Evan Wang who owns Sixweel brand is also planning Thru Axles under his Ti Master brand as well these will be even lighter! But around €350!
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Hi there,
unfortunately I have to warn everyone on the quality of the fork. Two hours ago I started on my friday routine route and under some braking with the front-brake in front of a crossing the fork imploded. Apart from some minor scratches I'm okay, but the bike took some hits while going over the handlebar... I was super satisfied with the riding quality of the bike so far, but I was not braking hard and just going under 25 kph before the crossing...
Let's see how TanTan will handle this...
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Yikes,
Glad you’re okay
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Oh jeez! You have me worried now. No prior crashes or major bumps against the fork?
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It sheared at the caliper mounting location?
As an aside, I know folks hate to resize photos but large photos are hard to view on a smallish screen-think laptop...
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Oh jeez! You have me worried now. No prior crashes or major bumps against the fork?
Nope, no bump and no crash. I really took good care of it and I've ridden it just for a bit under 150 km...
It sheared at the caliper mounting location?
See below and resized ;) I remember it first cracked on the left above the caliper. The thickness of the material in this section is really thin...
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Happy to hear you are safe.
Just so I understand more clearly. You were braking and the fork snapped near the caliper under load?
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The $40 for the new seatpost seems fair so that good news.
I will press for the installation instructions myself and see what they say, once I get confirmation that the frame is finished, I’ll update everyone.
As with my Venge, SL7, and SL8 builds, I won’t be using the supplied expander plug — I’ll fit a Carbon-Ti or Extralite expander instead.
I’ll check if my Darimo post from the SL8 fits out of interest
I’ll likely use the supplied post, cut it down, and swap the fitting and cradle to save weight.
Trying my best to keep this build budget!
I've got a carbon cradle here, its a couple grams lighter, not sure if its worth the trouble. Are you going to use yokes instead of the alu top piece?
Have a couple extralight expanders here, know folks use them, but there must be a reason Specialized uses the overbuilt one, likely liability if a failure.
As to a manual, there's an early post here where someone was told to use the sl8 manual.
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Happy to hear you are safe.
Just so I understand more clearly. You were braking and the fork snapped near the caliper under load?
Yes, I was approaching a smaller crossing and used the front brake to slow down (I guess right before left rule is used on most countries :D ) and then it snapped couple of centimeters over the caliper.
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Looks like it's right where the brake hose enters the fork. I'm looking at mine and pressing it and it seems very strong/sturdy. Definitely nerve-racking though...
I guess another benefit of ordering a raw carbon frame is you can look at the weaves and maybe pick up on carbon failure earlier
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That's concerning for sure.
The fork is thin there, its part of the reason specialized uses the unique narrow flat mount spacing on the sl8, to reduce the area reinforced for the mounts.
Looks like a straight up failure, given no issues with the other fork leg.
You'd be surprised how frequently forks get damage by foreign objects without the rider being aware, but its almost 100% damage to both legs (handled a few legal cases involving forks when still working).
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Hold a sec, looking again, there IS damage to the other fork leg higher up?
Can you say with any certainty that that was the result of the impact and not occurring at the same time as the other failure?
Not to cross examine you, but...have had experience with a few of these over the years.
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Hold a sec, looking again, there IS damage to the other fork leg higher up?
Can you say with any certainty that that was the result of the impact and not occurring at the same time as the other failure?
Not to cross examine you, but...have had experience with a few of these over the years.
The fork was fine on both sides when I started. When I approached the crossing it definitely felt like the left side snapped first under breaking. I took a "dive" and fell over the handlebar. I think the right arm cracked due to my weight going over the handlebar and having no support from the other side. I just had a look at the point where the hydraulic hose comes out of the fork and the material is not "bonded" but more separate layers. Anyway, I hope TanTan will find a good solution. The ride feel on this TT-X68 was very good.
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The fork was fine on both sides when I started. When I approached the crossing it definitely felt like the left side snapped first under breaking. I took a "dive" and fell over the handlebar. I think the right arm cracked due to my weight going over the handlebar and having no support from the other side. I just had a look at the point where the hydraulic hose comes out of the fork and the material is not "bonded" but more separate layers. Anyway, I hope TanTan will find a good solution. The ride feel on this TT-X68 was very good.
Glad you're OK and props to you for keeping trust in riding this frame. I'd never be able to do so... and you can see in my other comments that I privilege assistance quality above anything else. Of course this is likely an isolated case, but on a personal ground would look elsewhere :)
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Hmm, sounds like either the prepreg was contaminated or some other process failure...
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Holy moly! Glad you are ok! That must have been very scary! Luckely you werent going 60kmh downhill!
This incident could have a big impact on the sales of this frame
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I've got a carbon cradle here, its a couple grams lighter, not sure if its worth the trouble. Are you going to use yokes instead of the alu top piece?
Have a couple extralight expanders here, know folks use them, but there must be a reason Specialized uses the overbuilt one, likely liability if a failure.
As to a manual, there's an early post here where someone was told to use the sl8 manual.
Yes plan to swap the cradle, yokes and bolts for Ti but will have a look into
It when I receive this.
Well there was one failure that done the rounds on the old SL7 so they made the change as the SL7 s compression ring was steel the SL8s is now plastic so think the likley hood is less likely
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Let us know the answer of Tantan.
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Nope, no bump and no crash. I really took good care of it and I've ridden it just for a bit under 150 km...
See below and resized ;) I remember it first cracked on the left above the caliper. The thickness of the material in this section is really thin...
Jeez!
That’s not good at all — but the main thing is you’re okay!
Like someone else said, it’ll be interesting to see how TanTan handles this and, just as importantly, what actually caused the carbon failure on the X68.
Definitely not a great situation for you, but hopefully it’s just an isolated incident
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Given the intransigent communication regarding delivery dates and issues on supply side, I'm assuming that tantan is not producing the frame in-house so they might be not fully aware of quality control situation.
Normally the snakes fork has to be analyzed by a quality technician or surveyor to estimate the risk for ruining production.
Just my 2 cents as an automotive engineer
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Given the intransigent communication regarding delivery dates and issues on supply side, I'm assuming that tantan is not producing the frame in-house so they might be not fully aware of quality control situation.
Normally the snakes fork has to be analyzed by a quality technician or surveyor to estimate the risk for ruining production.
Just my 2 cents as an automotive engineer
Appreciate your input — and that makes a lot of sense, especially given your background.
The lack of clarity around delivery delays already raised questions, so your point about TanTan possibly outsourcing production adds another layer. If they aren’t closely tied into the manufacturing side, it could explain both the communication issues and potential gaps in QC.
A carbon fork failure is serious — it’s not just a warranty issue, it’s a safety one. The real question is whether this will actually be properly assessed or if TanTan will just send out a replacement fork and consider the matter closed. Since they’re not a Western brand, the approach might be very different from what we’d expect from companies like Specialized — where something like this could trigger a full investigation, order holds, recalls, and checks across the board.
That said, I know some forum members have been receiving their TanTan frames since late last year, and aside from a few minor issues, things have generally been fine. Hopefully this really is just an unfortunate, isolated case.
Let’s see if TanTan actually honours their “warranty” — and how seriously they treat the implications.
Well, I’ll definitely be giving the fork a good inspection when mine arrives — adding pressure around that area, doing some flexing and squeezing, just to see if anything feels off. Better safe than sorry.
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My contact in China said there's no way some of these vendors are building these frames in-house. Carbon molds are expensive ASF, so there's a good chance TanTan is sourcing the X68 elsewhere.
Also it's worth noting the SPCycle R088 frameset which is also an SL8 derived clone uses and entirely different fork (and head tube design). It makes me wonder if they did so because of potential issues copying the SL8 1:1?
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Also it's worth noting the SPCycle R088 frameset which is also an SL8 derived clone uses and entirely different fork (and head tube design). It makes me wonder if they did so because of potential issues copying the SL8 1:1?
Could be, or could just be they didn't want to be limited in caliper selection given the unique nature of the sl8's flat mount spacing.
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It looks like there's no epoxy in this fork. The strands of fiber look dry, dont they? The level of incompetence needed for such a failure at such low speed is enormous. It's not like you're 90kg riding at 90kmh and hit a cat sized pothole.
When i was looking at which OEMs to have on my white list, i never put tantan because stories like this one keep popping up. On this forum, there are a LOT of horror stories about tantan. And i can't figure out if it's because they suck, or because they're so big that it's unavoidable to have issues sometimes. This incident makes me lean towards the "they suck" more. Either way, no bum bum tam tam for me.
If you plan to keep riding this frame, I tip my hat to you, you're a brave man.
Yeah; this makes me very happy that I opted for the r088. After seeing this I would never buy this the X68; I value my life too much for that.
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Yeah; this makes me very happy that I opted for the r088. After seeing this I would never buy this the X68; I value my life too much for that.
What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
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An AI report on this issue:
Fork Failure – Likely Root Cause Analysis (Assuming Third-Party Supplier Used by TanTan)
Following the failure pictured in this thread, I’ve examined both sides of the fork and would like to contribute a technical breakdown of likely causes. Based on the images and common carbon manufacturing practices, the failure appears to have originated internally and propagated rapidly under load — not due to external impact.
Key Observations:
• The failure occurred at the crown-leg junction — a known high-stress area during braking and compression.
• On the opposite leg, there’s clear evidence of buckling and laminate rupture, indicating a structural collapse rather than an isolated crack.
• The fractured edge shows signs of dry fiber and fraying, typical of resin starvation or poor resin impregnation.
• There’s no sign of crash damage, deep abrasions, or tire rub that might indicate impact-induced failure.
Most Likely Root Causes:
1. Resin Starvation or Poor Wet-Out
Some of the fractured zones appear to lack sufficient resin, which compromises fiber cohesion and structural strength. This is often due to inconsistent layup, inadequate vacuum pressure, or issues in resin application.
2. Delamination Due to Poor Layer Bonding
The visible peeling and frayed laminate suggest layers may have separated under stress. This can result from under-curing, improper consolidation, or temperature control issues during manufacture.
3. Crown-Leg Transition Weakness
This area is often difficult to mold uniformly, especially on molds reused heavily or not maintained correctly. Stress concentrations here would exploit any weakness in fiber orientation or bonding.
4. Manufacturing Quality Control Lapse
If TanTan uses a third-party frame/fork supplier (as is often the case), inconsistent quality control in the supply chain could allow defects like this to pass undetected — especially in lower-cost carbon production environments.
Additional Thoughts:
• This failure should not occur under normal riding loads, and it highlights the importance of proper QC, layup integrity, and resin content.
• If this was a one-off, it’s unfortunate. If others have similar forks, it might be worth proactively inspecting the crown-leg junction — particularly for signs of surface distortion or laminate stress.
• A post-failure ultrasonic or CT inspection would confirm voids or resin-poor zones, but visually this already looks like catastrophic laminate failure due to internal defects.
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What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
It uses a different fork
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This is really scary. I'm honestly beginning to regret my decision to purchase this frameset. Also, considering that my seat post cracked (most likely my fault, but anyway), seeing now this fork explode like this doesn't give me more confidence. Maybe Spcycle R088 would have been a better choice. Let's hope that this is a one-off..
By the way, what makes you think Tanan is completely outsourcing the production of this frame? Would it make sense to outsource something you can make in your own factory?
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What makes you think the r088 is any better? And please don't get me wrong, it's not meant as criticism. I have r088 on my way...
As mentioned, different fork, different head tube design, bigger headset bearings, etc. It's not trying to be a 1:1 SL8 copy in exchange for a more standardized and less proprietary design.
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Aren't tantan, seraph, spcycle all the same mob ?
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An AI report on this issue:
Fork Failure – Likely Root Cause Analysis (Assuming Third-Party Supplier Used by TanTan)
Following the failure pictured in this thread, I’ve examined both sides of the fork and would like to contribute a technical breakdown of likely causes. Based on the images and common carbon manufacturing practices, the failure appears to have originated internally and propagated rapidly under load — not due to external impact.
Key Observations:
• The failure occurred at the crown-leg junction — a known high-stress area during braking and compression.
• On the opposite leg, there’s clear evidence of buckling and laminate rupture, indicating a structural collapse rather than an isolated crack.
• The fractured edge shows signs of dry fiber and fraying, typical of resin starvation or poor resin impregnation.
• There’s no sign of crash damage, deep abrasions, or tire rub that might indicate impact-induced failure.
Most Likely Root Causes:
1. Resin Starvation or Poor Wet-Out
Some of the fractured zones appear to lack sufficient resin, which compromises fiber cohesion and structural strength. This is often due to inconsistent layup, inadequate vacuum pressure, or issues in resin application.
2. Delamination Due to Poor Layer Bonding
The visible peeling and frayed laminate suggest layers may have separated under stress. This can result from under-curing, improper consolidation, or temperature control issues during manufacture.
3. Crown-Leg Transition Weakness
This area is often difficult to mold uniformly, especially on molds reused heavily or not maintained correctly. Stress concentrations here would exploit any weakness in fiber orientation or bonding.
4. Manufacturing Quality Control Lapse
If TanTan uses a third-party frame/fork supplier (as is often the case), inconsistent quality control in the supply chain could allow defects like this to pass undetected — especially in lower-cost carbon production environments.
Additional Thoughts:
• This failure should not occur under normal riding loads, and it highlights the importance of proper QC, layup integrity, and resin content.
• If this was a one-off, it’s unfortunate. If others have similar forks, it might be worth proactively inspecting the crown-leg junction — particularly for signs of surface distortion or laminate stress.
• A post-failure ultrasonic or CT inspection would confirm voids or resin-poor zones, but visually this already looks like catastrophic laminate failure due to internal defects.
Serge, are you behind the AI ? Because, you talked about the lack of resin :D.
More seriously, have you got an answer from Tantan ?
It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
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Thanks! This is normally achieved by this "sleeve"/"bushing"/"spacer" sitting on the axel, right? (in the DT 240/350 ratchet hubs it's the one with 15 mm inner diameter and 15,4 mm in length).
For this, I couldn't find any fitting shims so far :( Do you have any specific recommendations for where to find them?
In the serenade hub, this "sleeve" measures at 15,5 mm. Maybe a friend could turn one with 15,7 or so...
Did you buy this freehub new and I packaging? I converted a Serenade wheelset to N3W on my gravel bike and I’m pretty sure the original DT N3W freehub came with a sleeve and an end cap. It was a straight swap and worked right away.
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Thanks guys! I reached out to Vivian via WhatsApp and TanTan via mail. They currently have week-long holidays due to Labor Day in China. However, couple days later I realize how lucky I have been. Usually I drive this route the other way round because you have a great high speed section at the beginning.
I'll keep you updated.
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Did you buy this freehub new and I packaging? I converted a Serenade wheelset to N3W on my gravel bike and I’m pretty sure the original DT N3W freehub came with a sleeve and an end cap. It was a straight swap and worked right away.
Yes, I bought it new. There was a new endcap but no sleeve included. Also DT Service wrote via E-Mail, that there's no other version of the sleeve that might fit. I think it was just poor tolerances, as mentioned before. 0.2 mm longer sleeve works fine now.
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It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
They won't do a recall since there is absolutely no risk to them for a lawsuit...
Chinese sellers are above the (western) law, so it's up to their goodwill if they will give you warranty replacements or some money back when something goes wrong... And if sh*t really hits the fan they will just ignore you and the problem is solved for them.
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Chinese seller are not above Chinese law however and this can still be pursed but the question is wether it is will work:
Just to add some context — China does have an official regulatory body that oversees product safety and quality. It’s called the State Administration for Market Regulation (SAMR) — or in Chinese, 国家市场监督管理总局.
Website: http://www.samr.gov.cn (Chinese only, but Google Translate works fine)
They’re responsible for handling issues like defective products, manufacturing violations, and recalls, including in cases where a product poses a safety risk. While they’re not specifically set up for international consumers, it is technically possible to submit a complaint — though you’d need to do it in Chinese or get it translated.
Also, every city in China has its own local market supervision bureau (like a regional SAMR branch), which may be more responsive depending on where the seller or factory is based — e.g. Shenzhen or Xiamen.
Of course, whether they act on it is another matter, especially for a one-off case, but Chinese businesses generally don’t want regulatory trouble. Just mentioning SAMR in your communications can sometimes be enough to make a seller take a claim more seriously.
If nothing else, it’s good to know there is an official channel beyond just PayPal or the seller’s goodwill.
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However many of us have used PayPal do this is the best option if they are not responding etc.
Just to clarify for anyone in the same situation — if the fork failed during normal riding and not as a result of shipping damage, it can still be pursued through PayPal under a “Significantly Not as Described” (SNAD) claim.
The key point is that the product was inherently defective and failed under typical use, which makes it unsafe and unfit for its intended purpose. PayPal does allow for disputes in cases like this, especially if there’s clear evidence the item had a manufacturing flaw.
Photos of the failure, a description of the conditions when it happened (e.g. no crash, no misuse), and even informal input from a mechanic can help support the case. Most buyers here have used PayPal, so it’s a good safety net — you’re not completely at the mercy of the seller’s goodwill.
Also, for what it’s worth, I’m the sort of person who wouldn’t just let this slide. I wouldn’t pursue legal action obviously, but I’d definitely go down the route of PayPal or other buyer protections if needed
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JUST FOR INFO
Mine ttx 68 (white waved wheels)
alrdy 1000km on it
speed: 25-33km/h
95% road / used pavement cracks / fixed cracks
5% gravel
issues is BB is creaking on higher watt output (but not always) - will check if bb is greased ......
Handlebar spacer rubbing / grinding on frame so the paint in a little area under the spacer is gone / scrachted
no fatal issues so far
!!!UPDATE!!! BB IS NOT CREAKING ITS HANDLEBAR SPACER TIP is Rubbing on Carbon frame when sprinting heavy !!!!!!!!!!!!
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
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Its not necessarily "no resin" fwiw. Its more likely insufficiently heated prepreg. Result is the same though.
Its not encouraging that it happened, but lets see what the response is.
I don't doubt that the large demand for the frame has stressed production and probably qc. I also believe that tantan and other larger companies monitor social and even this forum for feedback.
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Serge, are you behind the AI ? Because, you talked about the lack of resin :D.
More seriously, have you got an answer from Tantan ?
It is unlikely but imagine if they have to recall a whole batch of frame because of this failure...
No, it was Serge who made the comment about the resin. I use AI/ChatGPT as a resource, which has been incredibly helpful for handling similar customer service situations—though my experiences are based in the UK which is obviously an awful lot different to China!
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This is really scary. I'm honestly beginning to regret my decision to purchase this frameset. Also, considering that my seat post cracked (most likely my fault, but anyway), seeing now this fork explode like this doesn't give me more confidence. Maybe Spcycle R088 would have been a better choice. Let's hope that this is a one-off..
By the way, what makes you think Tanan is completely outsourcing the production of this frame? Would it make sense to outsource something you can make in your own factory?
I get where you’re coming from—it’s definitely unsettling to see a failure like that. But it’s worth remembering that any carbon frame, even something like the SPcycle R088, could potentially have an issue if there’s a flaw in the material or a production slip. No brand is completely immune, especially with carbon, which relies heavily on quality control.
Also, about Tanan—Serge mentioned the resin, which made me wonder if parts of the production (like the layup or bonding) might be outsourced. That’s not uncommon even for companies with their own factories, especially if they’re managing multiple product lines. But of course, that’s just speculation.
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Hehe. If you look at a steerer tube, or carbon bits like a derailleur cage, versus the photo of the shattered fork, and then look at videos from people who use non pre preg carbon (easy composites UK on yt, for eg), the fork looks like it's basically carbon strands without enough resin. If you brake a steerer in two, you don't have long loose strands like that, it's more like a crunchy chocolate bar with a matrix of chocolate and crunchy bits in it. That fork looks like it's all crunchy bits and no matrix. And the only reason why carbon fiber is strong is the resin matrix. The fibers are useless without it.
So, here, we have ultra light frames, seatposts that crack, forks that implode, BBs that creak from new, how many more elements do we need to get a mental model of how tight a ship tamtam is running?
Also, if you almost die on that bike, and it's a counterfeit, as your insurance company, I'd probably say that you're on your own.
Lol. Had there been a fatal issue, by definition, you'd be posting on the forum from heaven. Pretty sure hell doesn't have wifi.
Creaky BB so early on is likely either user error, or poor manufacturing tolerances. Or both.
All of that from a lust for specialized vibe. Marketing done well.
Serge, you raise some fair technical points—especially about the resin matrix and how crucial it is to carbon strength. And yes, the fork failure photo is shocking. But I think we need to be cautious about jumping to sweeping conclusions based on one incident. There are plenty of frames from reputable brands (and even high-end ones) that have experienced sudden failures too. Carbon is brilliant but unforgiving if something goes wrong—whether that’s manufacturing, handling, or even damage during shipping.
As for the insurance comment and counterfeit angle—fair enough, that’s a serious consideration. But just to clarify: some of these frames aren’t direct counterfeits; they’re open-mould designs or licensed variations that are legally sold, especially if there’s no branding infringement. Still, it’s always good to understand the risks and ensure you’re informed.
Personally, I’ve found AI tools like ChatGPT incredibly useful in helping navigate customer service issues—it’s helped me get clear outcomes with UK companies where things seemed stuck.
Ultimately, I hope this was a one-off defect and that the brand takes it seriously. I’d like to think we can all share experiences here constructively—because snark aside, it’s clear we all care about safety and getting value for money.
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
Thanks for the update—glad to hear Vivian and the team at TanTan are taking it seriously and looking into the issue properly. A replacement fork and an investigation are the minimum you’d hope for in a situation like this, so it’s good to see that happening.
Also appreciate you sharing the part about the frame appearing OK but still advising a thorough visual and coin test—that’s a sensible approach. Fingers crossed it turns out to be an isolated incident and they follow through properly.
It’s moments like these that show why community feedback matters so much—helps everyone make better-informed decisions.
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can somebody explain the "coin test" :) ?
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can somebody explain the "coin test" :) ?
The “coin test” is a quick way to check for potential delamination or voids in a carbon frame or fork. You basically tap a coin (or similar metal object) gently along the surface of the carbon — ideally in a consistent pattern.
What to listen for:
• Healthy carbon sounds sharp and crisp — kind of a high-pitched ting.
• Damaged or delaminated areas often sound dull, flat, or thuddy — more like a thunk.
It’s not 100% foolproof, but it can help identify areas that might need a closer inspection. Especially useful around joins, lugs, or places under high stress.
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Already got feedback from TanTan (Vivian).
1. They will conduct an in-depth investigation into the fork issue of the TT-X68.
2. After doing so and finding the root cause of this material problem (if there is any) they will sent out a new and painted fork.
3. From the pictures provided they stated the frame looks ok and should be safe to ride, but checking every mm visually plus doing the "coin" test should be the next step from my side. In any case of noticable damage I should get back.
Lets see...
How exactly are they planning to do the „in-depth“ investigation? Are you going to send the fork back to TanTan for an examination?
In my opinion, the rapid ultimate failure is a significant issue and safety concern and the root cause can not be investigated via photos. I think e.g. fibre volume fraction and resin curing state should be investigated by a laboratory via acid or burn off method and DSC analysis on your specific fork.
However, such analysis would be more expensive than the frame itself…
Concerning your frame, I am not sure I would rely on a „Coin Test“. You crashed with your bike with uncertain und maybe invisible damages to other components, such as the frame. The root cause was TanTans fork, so I think they should at least offer a discount on a new one (or pay for an CT inspection?) after they finished their investigation.
Best regards from somebody who just ordered his first frame from China ;D
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They’ll probably just check their production record (if there even is any) and come up with no root cause.
Let’s see how this turns out…
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What makes the entire experience even more off-putting is the fact TanTan hasn't provided any evidence of actually producing the X68 frames themselves in their factory. Maybe they are just trying to avoid IP or legal issues. But most likely the answer is that they don't.
I've mention this before. TanTan does a good job of showcasing their new and flagship frames on their Instagram. Videos of stress tests, paint application, frame molds, etc. A way to market their OEM abilities to private brands. Look at their GR049 and their latest and popular GR201 gravel frame. Being secretive of how/where the X68 is made has always rubbed me the wrong way.
What's funny is if we are to conclude that legitimate Western branded frames like Specialized only cost $200-$300 to produce, what are they doing differently than the likes of TanTan to prevent a fork from exploding?
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I dont disagree, i was just explaining my thought process and how i do white list, black list, and grey list. I've been on this forum for fairly long time, since back when everyone was buying velobuild frames. This was post the era when velobuild was shipping dog shit. My first 4 chinese frames were VB. before choosing VB, i looked at the market, and back then already, you could find a LOT of weird horror stories from tantan and workswell, in particular. dengfu also had a very checkered track record.
I build bikes for me & friends, and i dont want a bitter, let alone traumatic experience attached to any of it (several Winspace stories recently). So given the competition, i ultimately picked sellers for the dozen frame and dozen+ wheelsets i've ordered that didnt have that history of regularly peddling dangerous garbage. I'm quite familiar with the concept of statistical risk, and there are trades that in my mind aren't worth taking for their risk reward profile. Essentially, if you can avoid it, what do you gain from buying from a seller with a documented history of catastrophic failures? That's just a bad trade.
Specialized is no stranger to catastrophic failures, from steerer tubes to sworks frames disintegrating during a crash, but that fork failure is next level incompetence. Based on what's been explained, it implies that you should expect that your bike could simply self destruct at any time, for no reason. No thanks :) I know I worry too much, but that's a key reason why my friends are happy to ride my bikes, they know their house nerd has worried about stuff they dont even know about.
+1. The probability they come back with anything substantial is low enough that i'm happy to bet against it.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and thought process, Serge — especially with the background you’ve got from years on the forum and building up a dozen bikes and wheelsets. That kind of perspective is invaluable, particularly for those of us who might be newer to the direct-from-China frame route.
Totally get where you’re coming from regarding statistical risk and how certain suppliers build a reputation — whether good or bad — over time. The “white list / black list / grey list” approach makes a lot of sense, especially when you’re building bikes for others and want peace of mind as much as performance. It’s clear you put a lot of thought into the decisions, and your friends are definitely lucky to have someone that thorough looking after their gear!
Also agree that while big brands like Specialized have had their share of high-profile failures, there’s a very different level of accountability and follow-up. Something like this fork failure is unsettling, and hopefully TanTan respond seriously and transparently — not just for the person affected, but for everyone who’s invested in these frames.
Thanks again for weighing in — your insight is genuinely appreciated.To
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What makes the entire experience even more off-putting is the fact TanTan hasn't provided any evidence of actually producing the X68 frames themselves in their factory. Maybe they are just trying to avoid IP or legal issues. But most likely the answer is that they don't.
I've mention this before. TanTan does a good job of showcasing their new and flagship frames on their Instagram. Videos of stress tests, paint application, frame molds, etc. A way to market their OEM abilities to private brands. Look at their GR049 and their latest and popular GR201 gravel frame. Being secretive of how/where the X68 is made has always rubbed me the wrong way.
What's funny is if we are to conclude that legitimate Western branded frames like Specialized only cost $200-$300 to produce, what are they doing differently than the likes of TanTan to prevent a fork from exploding?
Appreciate you taking the time to lay all that out, Patilean — you’ve made some really thoughtful points throughout the thread and helped keep the discussion grounded.
The uncertainty around whether TanTan actually manufactures the X68 themselves has been a recurring theme, and the contrast with how openly they showcase other frames like the GR049 and GR201 is hard to ignore. Whether it’s about avoiding IP scrutiny or simply because a third party is involved, it definitely raises valid questions — especially when transparency is such a key part of trust for a direct-buy product.
Also fully agree with your take on Specialized and other big brands. Even if their unit cost is relatively low, what they invest in QC, traceability, and safety protocols is probably what helps prevent failures like this one. It’s not just about cost — it’s about oversight and accountability.
I’ve watched a number of TanTan’s Instagram posts as well, and while I’ve seen the X68 shown on racks waiting for paint or final assembly, I haven’t seen the same kind of behind-the-scenes footage — like mold work, layup, or stress testing — that they’ve shared for other models. That absence definitely adds to the impression that the X68 might not be built in-house.
On another note, one of the counterfeit sellers I’ve followed recently posted videos of a Madone SLR Gen 8 going through what appeared to be load testing — something I haven’t seen before from that side of the market. It just shows how even the gray market is trying to project legitimacy, which only adds to the complexity in trusting sources.
Appreciate the ongoing input — these kinds of conversations are a huge help for those of us trying to navigate the open-mold world with eyes wide open.
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To further @Serge_K points above now that I've gotten back into playing bikes in a circle I get a lot of questions from local teams about wheels.
Trust, dealer warranty, and brand cache are a priority here in Chicago. No matter how many times I recommend Carbon Speed OEM wheels, I can see in their faces how off-putting it is to cosign a brand they've never heard of. Winspace, FarSports, and No.6 believe it or not are the only brands that people around here....kind of trust. And that's mainly because those brands market their wheels to professional teams. Of course at the expense of paying consumers. Just like Western brands.
Clubs around here would rather ride on crappy Zipp wheels than take any gamble on Chinese brands. Confirmation bias is a real thing. This single, potentially one off, frame failure is enough to have potential buyers never shop a Chinese whatever ever again.
Last year I posted a video on my faulty Giant propel with a cracked steer tube. Giant at first didn't wanna honor their warranty. Others reported a similar experience with Giant's warranty too. But end of the day it's still Giant. Brand perception is real.
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Yeah, get that all the time. Folks want to know if I have dental insurance b/c I ride Chinese handlebars. And yet, you don't hear stories of actual failures.
Forks do break, and its very scary when they do. Steerer tubes fail, legs break (usually fod but not always) but the outcome for the rider usually isn't pretty and often involves hospitalization. But I don't think based on this single incident we can say that this frame/fork is any more "dangerous" than any other. We can speculate that Specialized has better qc measures in place ( and I would join in that speculation) but at the end of the day its just that, speculation.
But that said, I'm on a bunch of forums where people talk up failures and I can't say I remember ever seeing a report of a fork leg snapping jra. So there's that.
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Hey All,
Another complete build post with some first thoughts for anyone still waiting on their frame or thinking about buying.
About the build, went with the matte black because it was the lightest and only way I was going to beat the start of the tariffs here in the USA. Frame in a 56 was 850g with hangers and bottle cage bolts, fork was 330g uncut. Ultegra 8100 groupset, Roval CL II, Selle San Marco Shortfit CFX, Time Xpro 10, bike with pedals and cages is 16.1 lbs. From order to delivery was about 2.5 weeks.
About me, 170 lbs, former Cat 2 road/Cat 1 CX, now just ride for fun and occasionally hop into a weeknight crit. Threshhold around 300w and sprint around 1300w, so at least around here in Colorado decidedly average.
About safety, I had around 75 miles so far in my first week after building up and the vibes were good, and then the broken fork post really shook me. Had plans for a fast group ride today, but didn’t want any incident to potentially hurt other people so bailed on that plan. Decided I’d go out for my own and try to basically ride like an idiot so if it was gonna break I would at least be prepared for it. Gradually built up to higher and higher speed and hit the brakes hard, with the fastest being around 45 mph. Did some bunny hops, fast corners, potholes, downhill speed bumps, and a dirt road with some rough washboard. Held together well and shows no outward signs of deformation, coin test sounds the same as before I left, and pressing in various sections can discern no flex. I won’t pretend that this means mine or anyone else’s are perfect but it makes me feel a lot better at least. Probably will avoid any big groups until I hit at least 1000 miles in a couple months and much more confident it’s sturdy.
Finally, how does it ride? Honestly much better than expected. Last couple team bikes I had were a Sage Skyline and Donnelly C/C for cross. Comfort is on par with the Sage, but feels a lot more planted than that bike, although to be fair it had a max clearance for 25s. Stiffness wise it beats both of those, and that was a pleasant surprise because at this price and weight I was worried it would end up being a noodle.
So far fairly optimistic about how it’s performed in the first 150 or so miles, but hesitant to recommend to anyone else with the safety concerns as they are. Will be consistently checking back here for Tan Tan’s response on the fork, and will update as well when I get closer to 1000 miles. Anyone in the Denver area want to see one or ride it in person hit me up!
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I loaded paypal, Jessi sent me the invoice for a 58 frame, I was about to press the button, when I saw what happened, I am very uncertain about buying it or not
it does not leave me very calm
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I loaded paypal, Jessi sent me the invoice for a 58 frame, I was about to press the button, when I saw what happened, I am very uncertain about buying it or not
it does not leave me very calm
Would be a very good opportunity to send the photos from the forum of the forks and see what she says about them maybe.
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
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Would be a very good opportunity to send the photos from the forum of the forks and see what she says about them maybe.
most likely jessi, my intermediary, will already know this together with vivian.
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
ottimo 8)
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I just finished building up my bike, and overall, everything came together smoothly.
The build is full Ultegra Di2 11-speed, with a Dura-Ace 11-28 cassette and 53/36 chainrings. I'm running a C-Bear bottom bracket, XTR rotor up front, and a Galfer rotor in the rear. The cockpit features a 100x380mm integrated handlebar paired with a MagCAD 3D-printed Garmin mount. Out back, I’ve got some budget-friendly Chinese oversized pulley wheels, and the wheelset is a Fastop Wave 45/50mm — wrapped in 25mm Continental GP5000 tires with latex tubes. Saddle is a very light (75 gr as far as I remember) Aliexpress saddle which I used hassle free already on my other bikes for years.
Power is tracked with Favero Assioma pedals. As it stands, the total weight is 6.65 kg. Swapping to my climbing wheels and a SRAM Red cassette should bring it right down to 6.5 kg flat.
The build process was straightforward — everything lined up nicely, with properly faced surfaces and a smoothly spinning bottom bracket. The only small issue was the lowest headset spacer slightly contacting the frame, but a bit of sanding sorted that out easily.
I just got back from a 30 km shakedown ride, and honestly, it feels nearly identical to my Tarmac SL7 — which is a compliment in itself. It’s responsive, solid, and confidence-inspiring, with no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I will put S-Works stickers on it.
6.5kg that will be impressive
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
most likely jessi, my intermediary, will already know this together with vivian.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
of course. you risked your life. you don't joke with these things
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Just to add some riding experience here: After a couple of kms, I'm really happy with the bike! Frame and wheels are/feel much stiffer than my 2021er TCR. Together with the lower weight this is noticeable in accalerations and also while climbing. At the same time, the bike doesn't feel more uncomfortable than the TCR. Bike handling in decends is also very comparable and "unremarkable" in a positive way (no "wobbling" or else...). Unrelated from the frame itself, the Wheeltop group has beed hassle-free and works very well. The broken fork really is a bummer, and not very confidence-inspiring. However, mine is still in one peace, also after a couple of bunny hops, pot holes and heavy breaking on steep hills (which really, and unfortunately, doesn't mean anything :().
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Just to add some riding experience here: After a couple of kms, I'm really happy with the bike! Frame and wheels are/feel much stiffer than my 2021er TCR. Together with the lower weight this is noticeable in accalerations and also while climbing. At the same time, the bike doesn't feel more uncomfortable than the TCR. Bike handling in decends is also very comparable and "unremarkable" in a positive way (no "wobbling" or else...). Unrelated from the frame itself, the Wheeltop group has beed hassle-free and works very well. The broken fork really is a bummer, and not very confidence-inspiring. However, mine is still in one peace, also after a couple of bunny hops, pot holes and heavy breaking on steep hills (which really, and unfortunately, doesn't mean anything :().
May I ask which wheels you're using?
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This purchase is a rollercoster for me so far.
6 weeks waitibgf time, wrong color, fork failing, more waiting time.....
However, I'm happy to see folks being pleased with their builds, so I'm eager to build my one, hopefully soon.
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sure! it's the wavy ones from serenade. there's a thread about them here in the forum.
https://amp.serenadebikes.net/50mm-Wave-Whape-Carbon-Racing-Bike-Wheelset-Ratchet-hub-1200g-p6220620.html
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
Props to you for still having confidence in this frame.
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Props to you for still having confidence in this frame.
Rode mine today on a fast 45k, and hit broken pavement and a plumbers trench -paved over but poorly-at 45kph on a descent without issue. I'm pretty well ok with the fork. Not prepared to say it was a one off, but also pretty certain its not the norm.
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While it's certainly concerning, it's nothing new that carbon can crack or be poorly manufactured. Two friends of mine destroyed their S-Works Aethos bikes—one by hitting a pothole hard, which cracked the top tube, and the other during a ride when the seat tube broke in the middle. These were genuine Aethos frames.
Something similar happened with a Giant TCR owned by another friend—the chainstay cracked out of nowhere, and the frame had only a few thousand kilometers on it.
Let’s not forget the fork issue with the Tarmac SL7.
We’ve seen pros on TV break their bikes and handlebars. It's true that buying a bike from a Chinese seller might make people more apprehensive, but in the end, it's not uncommon for carbon to fail due to poor manufacturing or quality control.... and it happens everywhere..
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Having done 1000km and around 18'000 meters of elevation. I really like the frame and the way it feels.
Stupid question, but how the f to get the seatpost wedge out to grease that little mf.. I can't extract it...
Little addition, the hylix seatpost for the SL8 fits well :) but I haven't ridden with that, I just wanted to test wheter I can switch to it if I wouldn't be happy with the setback post
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Hi guys, got the frame inspected today and fortunately it seems fine. The main impact was on the derailleur, which explains the fucked up and bent direct hanger mount. As I already wrote, they will provide a new and painted fork. CT Scan will be made when the fork arrives.
Let's all hope this was a one of situation.
I think they are all very aware of the situation and they have the pics :)
Hi, what kind of inspection did you do to the frame?
Thanks
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Common denominator is often the sworks version. Within pros, it's an open secret that sworks frames break a lot, and they usually dont recommend buying a frame from a team.
Pinarello was like that 5 or so years ago, with an ultra light version of the dogma that some bike shops refused to sell to customers because the frame simply wouldn't last. Awkward client conversations.
I would not spend sworks money on an sworks because there are too many stories of frames cracking while in the trunk of the car. I need my bike to be dependable.
These TDF level frames are the spear of the tech, and are not meant for mere mortals. You can't buy a formula 1 car, but you can buy an sworks.
My point as follows: while it's logical to expect failures on ultra light frames that compete on weight with the sworks, if we start normalizing frames cracking on this forum (again, hasn't been in a thing on here for years), let's distinguish the ultra light stuff from the other stuff, as i think that most people on this forum want bikes they can ride without fear of frame failure, at a sensible price point.
I would not put my friends on frames thinking that they may "just break like sworks". It's hard enough to make good friends, especially given how often road cyclists are just dicks, i can't start killing them, it's irrational.
Thanks for this detailed input, Serge — your take adds a lot of nuance and clarity to the discussion.
You’re absolutely right to draw the line between ultra-light, high-performance, race-day-only frames and the kind of dependable bikes most of us want to ride daily without a second thought. That distinction often gets blurred, especially when people chase weight savings without fully appreciating the compromises that come with it. The comparison to F1 cars is a good one — cutting-edge, but not necessarily built for longevity or the wear and tear of everyday use.
Also appreciate you highlighting the insider view on S-Works and previous Pinarello practices. It’s easy to get dazzled by the marketing and pro endorsements, but reliability often takes a back seat in that world — literally, in some cases, judging by the stories of cracked frames in car trunks.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a weight weenie myself — however, I don’t sacrifice performance or reliability in pursuit of lower grams. There’s a line, and I do my best to stay on the right side of it.
Your point about friends and trust hit home, too. Ultimately, a frame isn’t just carbon and resin — it represents confidence, responsibility, and safety for the people we ride with.
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
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This was the first and will be the last order at tantan.
It's two full month now since payment and frames have not even been shipped.
No reply by Vivian since two days, no estimated shipping date.
Will open a claim at PayPal tomorrow, maybe they will speed up afterwards.
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This was the first and will be the last order at tantan.
It's two full month now since payment and frames have not even been shipped.
No reply by Vivian since two days, no estimated shipping date.
Will open a claim at PayPal tomorrow, maybe they will speed up afterwards.
There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
It was the rim brake era, totally different game. You know how much force a fork fast to take today with them disc brakes? It's a lot... That's why first disc road brakes where heavier and mid ride quality and riders preferred the rim brake bikes. A lot changed but it's still not that straightforward to make sub 800g disc brake frame and lightweight fork
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There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
This - its why mine stretched to 90. They get very backed up after a week holiday, and they don't work from home during the holiday.
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well, light frames have been built for a lifetime, I remember my scott cr1 in size 58 weighing 800gr or less. and it was from 2005. and if I remember correctly it cost 2200 euros. and it was safe, stiff and perfect.
anyway today I ordered it 58 raw. let's see the timing
And all the Bianchi EV1's in sizes bigger than 52 failed at the bb. Light stuff is fragile, deal.
The x68 frame itself isn't world class light. The fork is close, but this failure was a process failure not a "light bike" failure.
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There’s been a public holiday in China since last Thursday for Labour Day. They probably need some time to catch up after the break. I’d suggest waiting until Thursday morning 9am there time to message them.
How many messages etc and emails have you sent that have gone unanswered?
Got a reply this morning:
"Another set needs to be remade with UD matte.
Please give us some more time."
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Thanks for this detailed input, Serge — your take adds a lot of nuance and clarity to the discussion.
You’re absolutely right to draw the line between ultra-light, high-performance, race-day-only frames and the kind of dependable bikes most of us want to ride daily without a second thought. That distinction often gets blurred, especially when people chase weight savings without fully appreciating the compromises that come with it. The comparison to F1 cars is a good one — cutting-edge, but not necessarily built for longevity or the wear and tear of everyday use.
Also appreciate you highlighting the insider view on S-Works and previous Pinarello practices. It’s easy to get dazzled by the marketing and pro endorsements, but reliability often takes a back seat in that world — literally, in some cases, judging by the stories of cracked frames in car trunks.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a weight weenie myself — however, I don’t sacrifice performance or reliability in pursuit of lower grams. There’s a line, and I do my best to stay on the right side of it.
Your point about friends and trust hit home, too. Ultimately, a frame isn’t just carbon and resin — it represents confidence, responsibility, and safety for the people we ride with.
Do you write these replies with AI?
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Got a reply this morning:
"Another set needs to be remade with UD matte.
Please give us some more time."
They need to make a new frame because they messed up and painted both of yours. Ask them to ship one of the frames now. They’ll probably want to ship both together since the original shipping was arranged for two frames.
However, since they can’t give you a clear timeline and this was their mistake, you should insist they ship the first frame now. They’ll need to cover the cost of shipping the second one when it’s ready.
Send something like the following since they cannot give you a timeline
Hi Vivian,
Since you’re already aware of the issue with the painted frame, I’d like to ask that you send out the finished X68 frame now, rather than waiting for the new UD frame to be made.
The delay has already affected my order, and without a clear timeline for the UD frame, it makes sense to ship what’s ready. When the UD frame is finished, I’d expect it to be shipped separately at your cost.
Thanks for your help, and I look forward to your reply.
Best regards,
Tom
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Do you write these replies with AI?
AI cannot write for you.
You have to write it AI can refine it.
I use AI occasionally to check and refine especially if it’s a long reply.
Not keen on grammatical errors and spelling mistakes.
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Do you write these replies with AI?
It is very obvious and hilarious.
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It is very obvious and hilarious.
;D
I'm aware it is obvious I'm not that smart ;D ;D
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Received my frame, ordered 19th march, tantan send it 25th april so not bad at all. Unboxing shortly 8)
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Received my frame, ordered 19th march, tantan send it 25th april so not bad at all. Unboxing shortly 8)
Rapid Delivery!
Where are you located JImpotante?
Mine were sent DPD on 30th but tracking is not detailed will likely pop up soon in the UK!
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Rapid Delivery!
Where are you located JImpotante?
Mine were sent DPD on 30th but tracking is not detailed will likely pop up soon in the UK!
Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
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Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
Give the Forks a good squeeze need to keep SergeK happy ;D
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Poland. Few pic's from unboxing below.
Is that pearl white/YS775-1 color?
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Is that a 58?
Don’t know about the paint job quality….
Especially considering they quoted me 500 USD for a custom one
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Is that a 58?
Don’t know about the paint job quality….
Especially considering they quoted me 500 USD for a custom one
$500usd!!
What the hell were you having done? ;D
I was going to buy an unfinished frame until I contacted a bike painter and it was around £500gbp so that was an obvious know.
The genuine SL8 frame paint is ok but nothing out of this world.
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Is that pearl white/YS775-1 color?
Chameleon white, size 58. Just this one part around screws looks like shit, but anyway it will be behind bottle cage so I don't' bother. it's standard paint job
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Can one of you folks doing a build put a set of calipers on the headset bearings and confirm the size.
Tantan claims their a unique size different than a real sl8 but given that every other dimension is identical, inquiring minds want to know.
So far they've said the seatpost is not the same as sl8, we now know it is. They say 140/140 on the spec sheet but its 160 only front. The derailleur hanger and seatpost wedge are identical to specialized. So I'm finding it unbelievable that the bearings are 52 52 while sl8 is 49.5.
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$500usd!!
What the hell were you having done? ;D
I was going to buy an unfinished frame until I contacted a bike painter and it was around £500gbp so that was an obvious know.
The genuine SL8 frame paint is ok but nothing out of this world.
Gold of course.
Nah ;)
Asked for glacier metallic. Then they asked for a reference. Sent them the link to the frameset. Maybe they mistook the paintjob for another one, because there was a different one on the preview.
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Gold of course.
Nah ;)
Asked for glacier metallic. Then they asked for a reference. Sent them the link to the frameset. Maybe they mistook the paintjob for another one, because there was a different one on the preview.
;D
Or maybe they added a 0 and it was actually $50.
Well I will bombard this thread with photos when I’m building ;D
Just itching to get it and compare against the real deal!
Watching DPD daily is a killer shame the delivery is not efficient as AliExpress!
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17track.net sometimes has more granular info than other trackers.
Illusion of control is real.
Cheers Serge_K
All 17tracked up!
Always the same with these ‘tax free’ deliveries they drop off the radar once collected on China then pop up a week later in your home country!
Almost have everything for the build just hydraulic hose and want to see how much Peter from XMs chainrings are then that’s it!
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Aside from buying the frame, I need group set and wheels. Do I need to purchase anything else to complete the build?
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Just to add for anyone looking to place an order now.
I just paid and estimate shared by Rose are as follow:
Frame paint time: 1 month
Shipping time is about 25-35 days
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Aside from buying the frame, I need group set and wheels. Do I need to purchase anything else to complete the build?
Hydraulic Hoses
Saddle
Brake discs
Bar tape
Bottom bracket
Tyres
Tubes
Bottle Cages
Pedals/spds
Chain if not supplied with groupset
Tools for install potentially depending on what tools you have
brake bleed kit and relevant oil for brake
Brake Pads if not supplied with groupset Tools
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Just to add for anyone looking to place an order now.
I just paid and estimate shared by Rose are as follow:
Frame paint time: 1 month
Shipping time is about 25-35 days
I was quoted 20-25 working days for frame manufacture took 23 days.
10-18 days shipping to UK, that’s a long shipping time it’s been 8 days so far.
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I was quoted 20-25 working days for frame manufacture took 23 days.
10-18 days shipping to UK, that’s a long shipping time it’s been 8 days so far.
I'm not familiar with manufacturing processes, but a month for a paint job kinda solidify the rumors that this frame isn't made in-house.
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I'm not familiar with manufacturing processes, but a month for a paint job kinda solidify the rumors that this frame isn't made in-house.
Does it, though? It could just come down to capacity. How many people do they actually have working on paint, and how many frames are in the queue? TanTan produce their own frames and also handle OEM work for other brands — so it’s entirely possible that a month-long wait is just due to volume, not outsourcing.
As always we are all just guessing!
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A bit more of ride reviews. I rode about 200 km with the frame now. It feels really excellent and as I said I still have a Tarmac SL7 and they feel the same. I would even say the Seraph feels more planted on the road and is a bit stiffer but yes still comfortable.
Aerowise I cant tell the differences between the two, the speeds are the same. Until now I dont have anything negative to say.
ah maybe the only thing is that I cant see how the frame should be compatible with 140mm front discs. It is the same system as the SL8 has so without another adapter, which is not included, I cant see how 140mm discs should fit. For me that I was using 140mm rotors on my 4 (!) wheelsets it is a bit of a hassle but in the end only 2 minutes of work.
Ah and yes the bottom spacer of the steering tube needs to be sanded down or cut in order to not make it rub on the frame. Seraph could have payed a bit more attention to that but its also no big deal. Some could even buy the geniuine SL8 spacers I think.
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Can one of you folks doing a build put a set of calipers on the headset bearings and confirm the size.
Tantan claims their a unique size different than a real sl8 but given that every other dimension is identical, inquiring minds want to know.
So far they've said the seatpost is not the same as sl8, we now know it is. They say 140/140 on the spec sheet but its 160 only front. The derailleur hanger and seatpost wedge are identical to specialized. So I'm finding it unbelievable that the bearings are 52 52 while sl8 is 49.5.
It's your lucky day :D
I have measured the outer diameter of at least one bearing it's 49,5mm.
So I think it's safe to assume any headset bearing set for the SL8 will work.
Also the SL8 seatpost from Hylix works in the TT-X68, so I think in general we shouldn't worry to much about spare parts but more about having a fake SL8
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Wondering if it would make sense to opt for a high quality bearing straight away.
Fiddling around with integrated headset is shitty in case of worn bearing.
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Wondering if it would make sense to opt for a high quality bearing straight away.
Fiddling around with integrated headset is shitty in case of worn bearing.
Sounds good.
Apart from Ceramic Speed SLT
Have you any suggestions?
Apart from applying a shit ton of grease!
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It's your lucky day :D
I have measured the outer diameter of at least one bearing it's 49,5mm.
So I think it's safe to assume any headset bearing set for the SL8 will work.
Also the SL8 seatpost from Hylix works in the TT-X68, so I think in general we shouldn't worry to much about spare parts but more about having a fake SL8
Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. Lots of folks upthread were claiming the tantan frame wasn't from whatever source the others were, given that "it has a different headset size". Now we know it doesn't.
Mine came built so I didn't want to pull the hoses to change the bearing...just added external grease. I avoid the rain as much as possible, not an option for Sander I suppose.
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Hydraulic Hoses
Saddle
Brake discs
Bar tape
Bottom bracket
Tyres
Tubes
Bottle Cages
Pedals/spds
Chain if not supplied with groupset
Tools for install potentially depending on what tools you have
brake bleed kit and relevant oil for brake
Brake Pads if not supplied with groupset Tools
Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
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Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
LT-Woo dont supply an L-TWOO crank for there group set unless the seller is proving a cheap crank which some Ali Express Seller do, like a ZRACE crank.
Lots of chap carbon crank's knocking about either 24MM OR 29MM axles like RIRO or LEES
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Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. Lots of folks upthread were claiming the tantan frame wasn't from whatever source the others were, given that "it has a different headset size". Now we know it doesn't.
Mine came built so I didn't want to pull the hoses to change the bearing...just added external grease. I avoid the rain as much as possible, not an option for Sander I suppose.
As I said some months ago, I am sure that Tan Tan and Taiwan Eisen are the same frames.
You have been derailled by a wrong headset size reported from Tan Tan (52) vs Taiwan Eisen and original (49,5) and assuming that Tan Tan is a good seller while others are just "counterfeit producer".
Tan Tan and Taiwan Eisen are not producing this frame, they are simply buying from the same factory.
Whoever is the producer, the dynamic qualities of the frame are very good, the quality of the finiture is sufficient.
The only thing I am a bit worried after 1.000Km is the solidity of the fork: it is around 330gr uncut and it is lighter than the SL8 original..
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I have said many times that the union between the direction tube and the horizontal tube is different from that of the original Tarmac, and all copies use the same union.
I think all the copies come out of the same factory, which is not so much or anything like that.
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Thanks, my understanding is I will need one of the following bottom brackets based on the option I choose correct?
68-24 for shimano, 68-30 for sram. 68-29 for DUB
What sizing would I need if I decide to get eRX 2025 groupset.
Mostly correct. Older sram can either be 30mm or gxp, which is 24mm on one side and a hair under on the other. You can either buy a gxp bottom bracket or use a sleeve to convert it to 24/24.
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I have said many times that the union between the direction tube and the horizontal tube is different from that of the original Tarmac, and all copies use the same union.
I think all the copies come out of the same factory, which is not so much or anything like that.
I will get a better look when my X68 arrives but it looks identical to me!
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Check my 56 size with specialized Web.
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Check my 56 size with specialized Web.
Will get a better Idea when the frame arrives and I can compare the two frames side by side
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Yeah so I'm finally selling off my real SL8 frameset. It's been collecting dust, with the exception experimenting with super narrow handlebars and obnoxiously long stems. The Chinese brands are good enough now for my needs. Wheels and groupsets are more important anyway.
I'm looking forward to hearing more longer term feedback on the X68. That way I can get one and use it as a "tribute" bike LoL
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Quick update on my frame. I have around 500km on it at the moment and still zero issues. I do wince a bit when I ride over big potholes, almost in preparation for a a fork failure, but nothing concerning has happened. I also am now checking the fork after every ride both visually and with the coin test to make sure things look good. Happy customer so far ;D
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Just out of curiosity, why are people resistant to the idea that TanTan / Seraph are the ones making fake frames?
Objectively, this saga raises the following possibilities:
- TanTan sources some of their frames from other factories
- TanTan doesn't fully own or control their factory. Perhaps it is a shared asset and these fakes are financed by another partner in the factory
- TanTan is producing fake frames
Folks seem sold on scenario 1, but I don't get it. Most of the frames on this thread already sport S Works or Specialized decals, so it's not resistance to counterfeiting. I'm just really curious to understand why TanTan is held in enough regard to discount possibilities 2 and 3.
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Wait, really? I thought you made videos on how amazing the frame was and how clearly better it was, and faster, and all of that? What... happened?
I dont actually have a horse in this race, but i didn't expect that!
I'll be fully transparent and honest in here since Chinatown is my family now of 5 years ;D
1. The Tarmac SL8 is the lightest most comfortable and crosswind-stable frame I've reviewed. Climbing on it is fantastic. The magic sauce that Specialized uses is tangible and real. I've done 6-7 hour rides on it and never really felt frame fatigue afterwards. But it's not super exciting to ride everyday, in how I subjectively quantify excitement. It's not exhilarating. It's comfy but lacks character. That doesn't mean it isn't fast. It's speedy for sure.
2. The SL8/SL7 are NPC bikes around here. Sure they are great on paper, but everyone has one. I don't care if more road feedback means marginally less rolling resistance. I like my frames to actually feel stiff because in my head that means "stomp on the pedals harder" It's why I owned two Allez Sprints and the latest Giant Propel. Stiff bikes are fun bikes. Stiff bikes feel fast. Cornering on a stiff bike is so freakin fun.
3. I only invested in the SL8 for the sake of benchmarking against other frames. Specialized fan boys (admittedly probably one myself) tell me all the time the SL8 is the one to beat, so I figured I'd put my money where my mouth is. And after 1 year of use, the frameset has served it's purpose. Same with my Propel. My YouTube channel's marginal success is predicated on constantly testing out new products. Similar to the independent car tuner channels. Legacy products don't bring in views because the audience is always expecting new projects.
4. The primary reason over everything above however is two-fold: Money and Philosophy. I can no longer afford to have several $6000-$8000 bikes lying around if they aren't getting used enough. Which is funny considering I ride 10,000mi/16,000km a year. So having an SL8 collecting dust because I don't love it is a terrible terrible financial decision. And finally, I realize I just don't "need" an expensive bike for my usage. I will continue to review Western-brands as time/budget allows. Although I suspect nothing will come close to the SL8 anytime soon. The new Scott Addict looks tasty. That's the only bike I'd invest my money into at the moment. I considered the Factor Ostro for a while but....meh.
Getting back into competitively riding my bikes in circles this season has been an eye-opener to what's important to me in a bike. I 100% feel like an idiot making that comment because I am very much still an amateur with both a forgettable FTP and skill level. I am not qualified to speak on crit racing. That said, my Tavelo Arow has been fantastic for the 11 or 12 crits I've done so far. Yes I was sent the frame. But my Yishun/LC R086D which I paid for is just as capable. Pushing bikes closer to (my) theoretical limits has taught me that both the OEM and mid-level Chinese brands are more than capable of producing great frames for their intended purposes. The resell value however is absolutely atrocious. If that's important to you...
I still would like to test an X68 just so I finally close the chapter on my SL8. I just think wheels, groupset, fitness/coach, and optimal position on the bike have played more of a critical role than the importance of the frame itself.
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Just out of curiosity, why are people resistant to the idea that TanTan / Seraph are the ones making fake frames?
Objectively, this saga raises the following possibilities:
- TanTan sources some of their frames from other factories
- TanTan doesn't fully own or control their factory. Perhaps it is a shared asset and these fakes are financed by another partner in the factory
- TanTan is producing fake frames
Folks seem sold on scenario 1, but I don't get it. Most of the frames on this thread already sport S Works or Specialized decals, so it's not resistance to counterfeiting. I'm just really curious to understand why TanTan is held in enough regard to discount possibilities 2 and 3.
No one is resistant to the idea other than apparently tantan themselves.
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Sounds good.
Apart from Ceramic Speed SLT
Have you any suggestions?
Apart from applying a shit ton of grease!
From what I've read this is basically same as ceramic speed SLT (some say they maybe even make them for CS).
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig-40x52x7mm.html
And a cheaper option
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
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Pat- totally get that. The sl8, given what I've found with the x68, is a great all around bike. It is likely a little "soft" for folks that like something that doesn't give at all. The tradeoff is as you've found, that you can both go reasonably fast and not be broken over a few hours. Its pretty rare that way.
But if you could have a complete x68 with a futureproof group (wheeltop performs really freakin well, longevity to be determined) for 1/4 the Specialized tax, yeah, I'd sell the sl8. Its a great bike at a great markup.
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From what I've read this is basically same as ceramic speed SLT (some say they maybe even make them for CS).
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig-40x52x7mm.html
And a cheaper option
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
Those one do not fit: 52mm vs. 49,5mm
These are the right ones:
(https://r2-bike.com/media/image/product/227012/lg/ceramicspeed-kugellager-kit-ohd-slt-fuer-steuersatz-specialized-tarmac-sl7-sl8-allez-sprint.jpg)
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Those one do not fit: 52mm vs. 49,5mm
These are the right ones:
(https://r2-bike.com/media/image/product/227012/lg/ceramicspeed-kugellager-kit-ohd-slt-fuer-steuersatz-specialized-tarmac-sl7-sl8-allez-sprint.jpg)
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-45-45-steuersatz-kugellager-specialized.html
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Ok we have confirm that the X68 takes 49.5mm
So I’m assuming these ones for something premium
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Hey all
For purchaser of the Frame
How long did your shipping take?
In particular anyone in the UK?
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Hey all
For purchaser of the Frame
How long did your shipping take?
In particular anyone in the UK?
Mine took around 12 days to Czech Republic if i remember correctly.
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13 days to Poland
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What about additional fees and cost of shipping to UE?
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What about additional fees and cost of shipping to UE?
I didn't have to pay anything extra besides that 150USD DPD shipping. No custom duties not vat, it was just delivered by DPD to my place.
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Hopefully pop up next week then trying to be patient
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I have a SL6 54mm. Is this frame a bit more aggressive than the SL6? More for racing and less
Comfort?
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I didn't have to pay anything extra besides that 150USD DPD shipping. No custom duties not vat, it was just delivered by DPD to my place.
Same story with my order ;)
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
Seraph/TanTan now has the reputation of assploding forks. Maybe SPcycle is the alternative for those who want to keep all their teeth! ;D
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They now offer the X70 Frame, which looks to be the same as the Spcycle R088. It's an SL8 clone with uDH and a different headtube design. Maybe it’s an interesting alternative if you don't want to buy a Spcycle.
Would order at SPCycle in comparison to Tantan. Had their G069 delivered in January, way better comunication at SPCycle, and I would think that Tantan doesn't produce their TT-X70..
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, way better comunication at SPCycle, and I would think that Tantan doesn't produce their TT-X70..
I must be particularly unlucky, I sent an email to ask for information on one of their frames, and they never answered me. this 10 days ago
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I bought two frames from them (M06 and G056), from my discussions with them, I believe they are oem but it’s hard to prove with certainty.
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Not that i like tantan, but a few thoughts / questions on SPCycle:
they only seem to exist online as an aliexpress seller (Shenzhen dishai industrial co., ltd), which is registered in "Room 206" in a building in Shenzen. Not, let's say, a factory in Xiamen (600km away). Then, SPCycle website takes you to another store front clearly tailored to the west, with the same reference to Shenzhen dishai industrial, which is good, as it implies, that unlike LTWOO, the spcycle store on aliexpress is the same as the online store on www.sp-cycle.com. But neither proves it's an actual factory. Arguably, everything points to the fact it's probably not a factory. None of their content looks like an OEM / factory. They only mention factory space in one sentence somewhere. Maybe it's the retail arm of a manufacturer they're hiding?
Either way, i'd argue SPcycle is less likely than tantan to make their own stuff. To me, they're like velobuild?
Even the LTWoo store on AliExpress isn't from Ltwoo but a reseller. Trace Velo spoke to them on shangai bike show. Last part of his video he says they are working on a B2C portal but for now only B2B.
So that's why people have better experience there with 80 designer store. Since he's the better reseller with an eye for customer service :)
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I think they've changed details in the latest model they've posted on their Instagram.
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I think they've changed details in the latest model they've posted on their Instagram.
What details exactly have they changed?
They have the new TT-X70 with UDH is this what your referring to?
Look like the X68 at the rear and obviously different up front.
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Now the handlebars have the points just like the original rock, and the shift leg uses a different screw
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Now the handlebars have the points just like the original rock, and the shift leg uses a different screw
Different size Frames that gap in the back of the head tube where the top tube and down tube meets increases or decreases with frame size. same for SL8 genuine
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Both are size 54.
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Hum I hope they don’t get them delivered like this
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Both are size 54.
I would say they have just made an error potentially then.
I must be blind looked at the instagram posts and there is no mention of sizes for the posts on these frames
Silver
https://www.instagram.com/p/DJVchmONq-8/
Black
https://www.instagram.com/p/DJdVN6PyfBd/?img_index=1
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I feel like this isn't getting enough attention.
Do you plan to make a video about the decision? It'd also be interesting to have you chat on the Nero show about your thought process. Your choice is unique, not least in that you produce YT content and need reasons to make videos, but it still sounds like you might have sold the frame anyway because you already have other bikes that, at the end of the day, you feel like riding more. Ultimately, that's a big dent into Spec's special sauce vibe armor, and i really think a Nero show discussion would be very interesting, because on one hand, they're knee deep in chinese stuff, but on the other, Chris is still 100% invested in the idea of branded frames being a league above.
Timing would also work, given Jesse is experimenting with his own long ass stem, with your input.
I feel as if I've beaten this discussion to death in my head. To the point it comes across like some sort of moral soapbox. Basically I've summarized my thought process across a few recent videos, particularly in my latest Tavelo Arow video.
One thing I would like to mention is I've realized how important brand cache is around here where I live. And the perceived trust/quality associated with big brands. We can argue all day on the internet as to why OEM wheels/frames present a fantastic value. But you should see the look on the faces of local riders when I recommend any other Chinese brand except Winspace, FarSports, and No.6
Let's be honest too: If I'm a pro team who is approached by Tavelo / No.6 Wheels / Yoeleo / Winspace with an offer I can't refuse...it's an easy decision. Brand awareness cost money. Yet I would not be surprised if OEM brands started artificially inflating their prices if more and more consumers jumped on the bandwagon. Yishun/LC immediately did this when I uploaded my review of the R086-D frame. Double edged sword.
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Yet I would not be surprised if OEM brands started artificially inflating their prices if more and more consumers jumped on the bandwagon. Yishun/LC immediately did this when I uploaded my review of the R086-D frame. Double edged sword.
Even TanTan/Seraph has increased the prices slightly for their TT-X68 frame and full builds. Their complete build was USD 2399, now it is USD 2539. The painted frames were USD 719, now some of them are USD 775(https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html), while some others are USD 729.
I can imagine the prices spiking once someone like you, Patrick, makes a video on them.
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Maybe the USD lost 5% of its value since tariff and manufacturer are just transferring the FX rate?
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Even TanTan/Seraph has increased the prices slightly for their TT-X68 frame and full builds. Their complete build was USD 2399, now it is USD 2539. The painted frames were USD 719, now some of them are USD 775(https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html), while some others are USD 729.
I can imagine the prices spiking once someone like you, Patrick, makes a video on them.
When I ordered the black frame UD Gloss cheapest option at $589usd and the headset and thru axles were another $20usd $609usd, so its now $629 on the Seraph site only $20.
From what I gather they have increased paint prices quite a bit.
Frame is being delivered today ordered the 1st of April.
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its the way I’m holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it’s not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798g no hardware
Forks uncut 399g
But will check with better quality scales when they arrive
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
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I don't think that the current production Rapide's have the textured tops. I think you're correct though about the topcap, maybe could be fixed with a little file...
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I don't think that the current production Rapide's have the textured tops. I think you're correct though about the topcap, maybe could be fixed with a little file...
glepore your right!
Ok wonder why that is maybe if I read the WW forum maybe I could find out but can’t be arsed :D :D
Well my rapides are a more grey anyway agains the black will lost a few more photos when I get in!
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Ok Bars
I’ll double-check when I get new scales , but weight is 228g on Micky mouse scales .
Size is 380mm wide, 110mm stem.
The Rovals are grey with a light finish — you can see some carbon weave through the surface.
The X68 bars are sprayed black. I used to be in the building trade, and to me, they just don’t have the same sharpness in finish.
The top cap area has a slight dip in the middle, and the bar edges aren’t perfectly straight it’s not blatantly noticeable though — there’s a slight bump and a misaligned cable exit hole (luckily underneath), oddly placed right next to the QC sticker.
Obviously with a bit more time these could be finished better but northing to split hairs over once and the bike they will look fine.
The profiles are subtly different too. From the front edge, the Rovals have a more pronounced contour I would say a more of a point while the X68 front section is more rounded.
Also, the X68 profile feels marginally thicker — maybe by 1mm. The Roval front profile appears slimmer and a bit more refined but we are talking 1mm on the verniers.
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its way I'm holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it's not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798G, no hardware.
Forks Uncut 399G
But it will check with better quality scales when they arrive.
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
wow, it looks amazing, that raw finish is very nice. Hopefully in the performance comparison it will be a bit similar to the original, after 1500 km I feel it as the stiffest bike I have ever tested, and fast. the other day on a long descent I was able to overtake to my group of cyclists at more than 80km/h. It was amazing to see how people were overtaking without having to use the pedals
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
The fate of my X68 dealings lies solely on you now haha
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The fate of my X68 dealings lies solely on you now haha
:D great not pressure then!
Ok well let’s start with the bars
I’ll double-check when I get the new scales but weight is around 229g on the Micky Mouse scales :D
Size is 380mm wide, 110mm stem my genuine are 400x110mm
The Rovals are grey with a light finish — you can see some carbon some UD carbon through the surface.
The X68 bars are finished in black. I used to be in the building trade and have a keen eye for small details and to me, they just don’t have the same sharpness in finish but obviously they came with the frame so it’s expected as they are not £575gbp!
The top cap area has a slight dip in the middle as seen in one photo I may attempt to flatten this out if really necessary.
And the bar edges aren’t perfectly straight you can make it out if you have a good look but if you are glancing at the bars you would never notice it’s barely notable
The cable entry and exit hole is well ok the piss! With the QC sticker on it lol but good thing it’s underneath.
And the top cap areas has not been machined to allow a more seamless fit with the top cap as with the original.
My original bars I purchased on release and have the textured surface and the X68 do not but glepore pointed out that the current bars do not have this which is correct.
The profiles are subtly different too but this is only noticeable side buy side When you look down on the top of the bars.
Also, the X68 profile feels marginally thicker — there is not a lot in it on the verniers maybe 1mm but again unless you have the real McCoy next to them you would never know.
The Roval front profile appears slimmer and I would say is blade like where as the X68 appears slightly more rounded.
I flipped the bars upside down and gave them a squeeze and they feel stiff but I will obviously test this better when I get to ride them.
And the spacers are not a tight fit at the base of the stem there is the collar part from the steers tube to the underside of the stem where the stem is obviously not the same depth and there are gaps either side. I have ordered a genius kit to see if it’s a tighter fit.
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Initial Impressions – Frame Side by Side
Side-by-side, the frame looks identical to the genuine article.
Finish is generally okay, though I did notice a few minor ripples in the surface. BB and thru-axle threads had a bit of overspray — nothing major or that would cause issues.
Seatpost slid in without any problems.
One small hiccup: when I reinserted the rear thru-axle, the washer was stuck on the frame. For a moment, I thought it was bonded in. Looks like they fitted it shortly after painting, so it had stuck slightly. A quick flick with a knife sorted it.
The gloss UD finish looks great in my opinion, and I think it’ll look even better once it’s built up.
Like others, I checked inside the head tube, BB shell, and seat tube. Everything looks tidy — obviously that doesn’t guarantee anything structurally, but it’s clean and well-finished inside.
Fork came in at 399g uncut, and the frame is 788g (no hardware). I’ve got some Kern scales arriving soon, so I’ll post a more accurate weight when I get them. For reference, my genuine frame weighs 701g.
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More photos.
Let me know if you want any more
Photos.
Have everything to build it up so will start next week as I am busy.
But will post build photos.
BB has not been faced like the real SL8 it has been sprayed up to the edge of the BB shell.
The genuine one is machined and you can see the surface carbon around the BB
Brake mounts look ok so far.
I will try and fit the BB as is and hopefully it’s ok.
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Initial Impressions - Frame Side by Side
Side-by-side, the frame looks identical to the genuine article.
Finish is generally okay, though I did notice a few minor ripples in the surface. BB and thru-axle threads had a bit of overspray - nothing major or that would cause issues.
Second post life without any problems.
One small hiccup: When I reinserted the rear thru-axle, the washer was stuck on the frame. For a moment, I thought it was bonded in. Looks like they fitted it shortly after painting, so it had stuck slightly. A quick flick with a knife sorted it.
The gloss UD finish looks great in my opinion, and I think it'll look even better once it's built up.
Like others, I checked inside the head tube, BB shell, and seat tube. Everything looks tidy - obviously that doesn't guarantee anything structurally, but it's clean and well-finished inside.
Fork came in at 399g uncut, and the frame is 788g (no hardware). I've got some Kern scales arriving soon, so I'll post a more accurate weight when I get them. For reference, my genuine frame weighs 701g.
Is the frame size 54?
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[...] reply is to all you last posts
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Thanks for the photo's and the detailed information. I'll be following you build and maybe steal some ideas (as to components).
Is it size 54, and what is your length?
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I don't get the weight of the fork, 399gr. I had read elsewhere if I remember correctly 340gr, less than the weight of the original
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I don't get the weight of the fork, 399gr. I had read elsewhere if I remember correctly 340gr, less than the weight of the original
Mine was 324 g uncut.
Additional weights: My frame was 843 g (size 56, with hanger), seatpost 163 g (380 mm version), bars 337 g (shortest stem, 380 mm wide).
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Thanks for the photo's and the detailed information. I'll be following you build and maybe steal some ideas (as to components).
Is it size 54, and what is your length?
Yes, it’s a 54cm frame, and I’m 178cm tall.
i might have the frame inspected at Carbon Cycle Solutions, where they can carry out a full carbon health check:
“Thanks for getting in touch with us. We can carry out a full carbon health check of your frame and forks, which includes a comprehensive written report and associated imagery.
We use a combination of microscopic and endoscopic cameras to check the inner and outer surfaces of each tube. Should anything be picked up, we will then use ultrasound to further investigate the area.”
I’ve got quite an extensive list of upgrades lined up, so I’m hoping the frame checks out!
Planned Upgrades:
Titanium Upgrade Kit for brake callipers
Shimano K05Ti resin pads
TI Master titanium rear derailleur pivot bolt
TI Master titanium shifter clamps
Chaser direct mount hanger (aluminium)
Chaser front brake mount (aluminium)
Galfer Wave centre lock brake rotors – 140mm & 160mm with Shimano lock rings
Overfast carbon thru axles
DFS Carbon Crank with 24mm titanium axle
XM Carbonspeed carbon chainring (planned 54-39T; fallback 53-39T if 54-39T isn’t possible)
Ryet saddle
Lucendi 1g bar plugs
Lightweight expander plug (Yes, a bit controversial, but I’ve used them without issue on both my SL7 and SL8)
Hopp carbon top cap with Extralight bolt
Magcad Garmin mount
ZTTO cassette (still undecided — mixed reports on shifting performance)
Barrel & nut upgrade for seat post wedge
Upgraded seat post cradle clamps and bolts
Maxxis Hyper SL 28mm tyres
Ridenow TPU tubes
DFS 60/65 T1000 wheels with 5mm carbon spokes.
Have a spread sheet and will post and list before and after weights for those who are interested and where purchased if its equipment I dont already have
Fingers crossed the frame gets the all-clear!
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Mine was 324 g uncut.
Additional weights: My frame was 843 g (size 56, with hanger), seatpost 163 g (380 mm version), bars 337 g (shortest stem, 380 mm wide).
Jeez that quite a difference obviously 324g vs 399g.
For reference my original SL8 fork uncut was 372.1grams and the frame before I had it painted was 700.4g photos attached for reference
The scales are not the best to be honest but they cannot be that far out though.
Maybe some other recent purchaser can post some fork weights.
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Guys any idea how to instal this little plate? It's inside seatpost tube and keep the front deraillure hanger up. When I was trying to mount di2 cable this plate fall down :-\ :(
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Guys any idea how to instal this little plate? It's inside seatpost tube and keep the front deraillure hanger up. When I was trying to mount di2 cable this plate fall down :-\ :(
Have you Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0ZE6dKsiS6/
My mechanic good tip!
Also shows you in the SL8 Manual page 22
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Have you Instagram?
https://www.instagram.com/p/C0ZE6dKsiS6/
You SAVED my life ;D
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My frame is Gloss in 58 weight 875g with both hangers and bolts. Fork weight 333 uncut.
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My frame is Gloss in 58 weight 875g with both hangers and bolts. Fork weight 333 uncut.
The SL8 white paper attached fork is 358g in RTP with 240mm Steerer tube for 56cm frame
So we have quite a variation but I would double check again later pretty sure is will not suddenly jump 60grams though ;D
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The SL8 white paper attached fork is 358g in RTP with 240mm Steerer tube for 56cm frame
So we have quite a variation but I would double check again later pretty sure is will not suddenly jump 60grams though ;D
Anyway my frame is going in next week for a scan
My uncut fork was 360.3g (somewhat good coffee scale :D) but i don't remember now if it was with thru axle or not... And the photo i have is rather pointless in that regard :D
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too much discrepancy in weight between the same forks, do they flip a coin before building them? heads or tails?
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Here are my weights for a site 58 in UD Gloss:
Seatpost: 166g 380mm with hardware
Fork: 333g uncut
Frame: 875g with hangers and bolts
Handlebar: 383g 420x120 with stem bolts an top cap and bolt
Truaxles: 54g
Expander: 54g
Headset: 42g
Seatpost wedge: 20g
Flat mount: 16g
Spacers: 28g
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Re the ztto cassette, I'm running a gen 2 (the one with the biggest cog being alu) 11-34. It works fine. Initially there was a bit of hesitation on the 5-4 "upshift" (going to a harder gear) but it got better over time, and with Wheeltop I was able to dial it all out. It is sensitive to the initial setting of the 11 and b tension.
The comment I would add is that its LOUD. Not horrible, but if you've not used a SRAM one piece cassette before you might think something's up. All of these hollow cnc machined cassettes make significantly more noise than Campy or Shimano.
I didn't weigh my forks as the brake hose was in place and I didn't want to fuss with it, but man those weight differences are disturbing, on the order of 15%. Mine has been ridden enough that I think it would have failed by now if it was underbuilt but I hate being a beta tester.
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My uncut fork was 360.3g (somewhat good coffee scale :D) but i don't remember now if it was with thru axle or not... And the photo i have is rather pointless in that regard :D
Ok i think it had to be with the thru axle so it means it was around 333g or so in that case.
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Ok the frame inspection is £212gbp!
My tight Irish blood is saying no! ;D
My sensible head is saying yes!
Well if i want to part with the cash Will have to take it in tomorrow or do I take a risk and save £200
Bit of s quandy end up spending £200 to find out the frame is no good and upset the group potentially.
CoreX88 had there frame inspected after the for failure will ask what inspection was carried out and any update to see how TanTan have been dealing with it
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Ok the frame inspection is £212gbp!
My tight Irish blood is saying no! ;D
My sensible head is saying yes!
Well if i want to part with the cash Will have to take it in tomorrow or do I take a risk and save £200
Bit of s quandy end up spending £200 to find out the frame is no good and upset the group potentially.
CoreX88 had there frame inspected after the for failure will ask what inspection was carried out and any update to see how TanTan have been dealing with it
well, I'd not spend the money. Might have just the fork done given the failure, but yours is so heavy that they must have added material, lol.
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well, I'd not spend the money. Might have just the fork done given the failure, but yours is so heavy that they must have added material, lol.
I like you, Glepore
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
Yes ;D
Free as well
Can imagine some fellas job is just sticking them on ;D
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One question guys, everyone. QC Pass stickers are included in your frames?
They are probably still on the broken fork without resin
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In France some donkey in the government decided that grades were racist or transphobe, so schools now give coloured stickers to students, as if they were delayed, instead of grades.
I have the same faith in these QC stickers on frames.
My frame doesn't even bring those stickers, I feel like every time I ride it I'm risking my life, even though it's a really nice frame to drive.
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Photos
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Photo
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Photos
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Tried fitting the Darimo seatpost in the X68 frame and noticed the seat tube is just a tiny bit wider more play side to side.
I could get the X68 post—probably an inch diameter—into the SL8 frame, but that’s it. .
The Darimo post fits the SL8 nicely and snugly. But the X68 post, if you don’t hold it tightly, will just slide right into the framem. I wouldn’t buy a genuine SL8 post because the Darimo one felt a bit loose in the X68 frame.
For the X69 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
So overall, the seatpost weighs about 131.9g. I’m thinking of cutting the post down to 350mm and re-drilling the Di2 battery holes as well.
One more thing—the original rear bolt is M4 size for the seatpost clamp hole at the rear but an M5 bolt will thread through the back hole in the seatpost without issue.
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For the X68 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
Those are aftermarket parts, right?
Could you pls share links?
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Short update:
TanTan is messing around since 3 weeks and did not source and ship a UD matt frame after accidently painting it.
So I'm waiting since the 5.03. so more then 9 weeks and the frames are not ready to ship!
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buongiorno a tutti, sono nuovo in questo forum e visto che sono interessato anche io a questo telaio x68 volevo chiedere a chi ne possiede uno se lo riacquisterebbe e il se lo ritiene sicuro dopo aver letto che alcuni utenti hanno avuto problemi con reggisella, forcella e telaio. grazie a chi mi potrà consigliare.
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buongiorno a tutti, sono nuovo in questo forum e visto che sono interessato anche io a questo telaio x68 volevo chiedere a chi ne possiede uno se lo riacquisterebbe e il se lo ritiene sicuro dopo aver letto che alcuni utenti hanno avuto problemi con reggisella, forcella e telaio. grazie a chi mi potrà consigliare.
Non parliamo Italiano qui. Per favore scrivi in Ingelese, grazi!
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Short update:
TanTan is messing around since 3 weeks and did not source and ship a UD matt frame after accidently painting it.
So I'm waiting since the 5.03. so more then 9 weeks and the frames are not ready to ship!
My opinion is that they will strip the paint and paint it matt black. It will not be new frame ;)
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good morning everyone, i'm new to this forum and since i'm also interested in this x68 frame i wanted to ask those who own one if they would buy it again and if they consider it safe after reading that some users have had problems with seat post, fork and frame. thanks to anyone who can advise me.
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good morning everyone, i'm new to this forum and since i'm also interested in this x68 frame i wanted to ask those who own one if they would buy it again and if they consider it safe after reading that some users have had problems with seat post, fork and frame. thanks to anyone who can advise me.
i and welcome to the forum!
Great to see you doing your research before committing — it's smart, especially with a frame like the X68 that’s generated some debate. You mentioned concerns about safety, and I’ll try to share what I know and my own experience.
Yes, there have been a couple of reported issues — one fork failure and a minor crack in a seatpost. That said, I’ve also had failures on premium components: a €400 Gelu seatpost cracked within torque spec, and a Felt carbon frame cracked at the seatstays. These things unfortunately aren’t exclusive to lesser-known brands.
TanTan, the manufacturer, claims their products undergo ISO 4210-compliant testing (impact, fatigue, vibration), but they don’t provide detailed test results or even basic sales figures — which makes it hard to put the reported failures into perspective. I asked for sales numbers to do a rough risk estimate, but they understandably didn’t provide them. So yes, I was probably clutching at straws there.
Based on what I’ve seen and experienced, I personally still consider the frame reasonably safe — for me. But I completely accept that others may have deeper technical knowledge or different standards, and they may reasonably come to a different conclusion. Risk tolerance varies from rider to rider, and in my case, I’ve weighed the pros and cons and made a decision I’m comfortable with. Others may (and should) make their own judgment based on what level of risk they’re okay with.
Hope that gives a bit of perspective — and definitely feel free to reach out if you decide to go ahead or want
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thank you very much for your experience
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thank you very much for your experience
What frames have you been looking at? A lot of people I know have been looking at the obvious counterfeits with specialized branding.
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I'm sorry but unfortunately I don't know English, I use Google Translate and it doesn't help me understand your question!
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I'm sorry but unfortunately I don't know English, I use Google Translate and it doesn't help me understand your question!
Che telai stai valutando? Conosco molte persone che stanno guardando ai soliti falsi con il marchio Specialized
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TT-X68 Disc Superlight Road Frame
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Let’s add a bit of context to the ongoing debate around the X68 frame weights and forks. The frame and fork weights fall more in line with the Tarmac SL8 Pro frame range — with the size 56cm version claimed at 780 grams.
Looking back at the video from Patrick on YouTube when he first received the Pro Frame, his painted 56cm frame came in at 827g, the uncut fork at 397g, and the seatpost at 169g.
I would say this Pro frame likely uses a lower proportion of T1000 carbon compared to the S-Works version. That’s probably also the case with Tan Tan X68 frames, as using less T1000 helps keep production costs down and reduces the likelihood of durability issues. T1000 is known for being more fragile, despite its higher strength-to-weight potential.
This may also explain how some of the rebranded or counterfeit frames manage to achieve their impressively low weights — possibly by using more T1000 carbon, which could compromise reliability.
This may have been discussed earlier in the thread but what are peoples thoughts
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Tried fitting the Darimo seatpost in the X68 frame and noticed the seat tube is just a tiny bit wider more play side to side.
I could get the X68 post—probably an inch diameter—into the SL8 frame, but that’s it. .
The Darimo post fits the SL8 nicely and snugly. But the X68 post, if you don’t hold it tightly, will just slide right into the framem. I wouldn’t buy a genuine SL8 post because the Darimo one felt a bit loose in the X68 frame.
For the X69 seatpost hardware weight:
• Carbon cradle: 12g
• Saddle yokes/clamps x2 No: 10g
• Two M5 Ti bolts (30 and 35mm): approx 4g
• Original barrel nut: 1g
Total: 27g
So overall, the seatpost weighs about 131.9g. I’m thinking of cutting the post down to 350mm and re-drilling the Di2 battery holes as well.
One more thing—the original rear bolt is M4 size for the seatpost clamp hole at the rear but an M5 bolt will thread through the back hole in the seatpost without issue.
Excellent. Are you using m5 nut on the rear yoke or were you able to source one with threads?
J&L cradle? Mine fits "close" but not perfectly, haven't used it yet. But that's an easy 40g, and the expander another easy savings.
I think an oem specialized top cap would solve the "fits high" issue.
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Let’s add a bit of context to the ongoing debate around the X68 frame weights and forks. The frame and fork weights fall more in line with the Tarmac SL8 Pro frame range — with the size 56cm version claimed at 780 grams.
Looking back at the video from Patrick on YouTube when he first received the Pro Frame, his painted 56cm frame came in at 827g, the uncut fork at 397g, and the seatpost at 169g.
I would say this Pro frame likely uses a lower proportion of T1000 carbon compared to the S-Works version. That’s probably also the case with Tan Tan X68 frames, as using less T1000 helps keep production costs down and reduces the likelihood of durability issues. T1000 is known for being more fragile, despite its higher strength-to-weight potential.
This may also explain how some of the rebranded or counterfeit frames manage to achieve their impressively low weights — possibly by using more T1000 carbon, which could compromise reliability.
This may have been discussed earlier in the thread but what are peoples thoughts
Hard to say. T1000 is enough of a cost difference to be unlikely. Guess its possible but there's no way I'd ride an unknown copy bike lighter than an sworks given that sworks frames have a reputation for being fragile enough. Could just be less filler etc in the finish, and skimping on some reinforcement here and there.
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Excellent. Are you using m5 nut on the rear yoke or were you able to source one with threads?
J&L cradle? Mine fits "close" but not perfectly, haven't used it yet. But that's an easy 40g, and the expander another easy savings.
I think an oem specialized top cap would solve the "fits high" issue.
Hey Glepore,
Yes, I’ll be using an M5. I managed to thread the supplied bolt through the rear hole, but I’ll probably just file a little off both sides so I don’t have to basically force-screw it through.
I ordered an Elita One cradle (claimed 12g) for £9.69,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006666237770.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.428118029lhl7P
Two titanium M5 bolts — one 30mm and the other 35mm — for £3.41
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006118920483.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.428118029lhl7P
And a pair of Zrace aluminium yokes (10g) for £7.83.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007653744576.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.428118029lhl7P
I measured everything, and the cradle should fit. I’ll make sure to use anti-seize on the yokes and bolts as well.
I have the lightweight HOPP top cap — the fit looks okay. The Tan Tan top cap (as shown in the picture on the other pages) is ever so slightly larger than the OEM SL8 one. I did notice in some of the build photos from other people’s bikes that the fit wasn’t great — the top cap looked almost like an afterthought.
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Hard to say. T1000 is enough of a cost difference to be unlikely. Guess its possible but there's no way I'd ride an unknown copy bike lighter than an sworks given that sworks frames have a reputation for being fragile enough. Could just be less filler etc in the finish, and skimping on some reinforcement here and there.
I would say it was done for durability myself then. The S-Works top and down tube is paper thing even when you tap them. Seen picture online and the bikes always appears to snap in these areas in a crash which is likely for most of the superlight weight frames these day
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Photos
Is the expander identical for both models (X68 and SL8)?
Thanks
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Is the expander identical for both models (X68 and SL8)?
Thanks
Read page 67
I have posted many photos
But no it look quite similar but it’s heavier
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Read page 67
I have posted many photos
But no it look quite similar but it’s heavier
Seen thanks, but apart from the weight they seem identical in structure/construction.
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Sander, have you removed an installed sl8 expander? Have seen the "pry with a bolt" trick on youtube, wondering if that's the only way to get it out.
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Sander, have you removed an installed sl8 expander? Have seen the "pry with a bolt" trick on youtube, wondering if that's the only way to get it out.
Gelpore
No I have not as I don’t use the supplied expanders.
I use the lightweight types.
My mechanic unscrews it as far as you can and then you need to hit the bolt to dislodge the wedge but I am aware it is a
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Seen thanks, but apart from the weight they seem identical in structure/construction.
Yes that is correct pretty much the same. Obviously the black part has to be cut to size and the edges files down one the steerer tube is cut son it fits and does not touch the internal brake cable
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The build has started!
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Hello Guys
After Reading this thread I'm tempted to buy an sl8 copy.
Does anyone know if the sl8 copy sold by yohobike is the same as the tartan/seraph and if the yohobike site is legit?
Best regards
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Hello Guys
After Reading this thread I'm tempted to buy an sl8 copy.
Does anyone know if the sl8 copy sold by yohobike is the same as the tartan/seraph and if the yohobike site is legit?
Best regards
No one knows wheee these frames come from. And Tan Tan claim to manufacture theres.
Yoho bike has been around for a while.
They have a few numbers
+86 136 7012 0157
+86 185 8902 0279
For protection but through
PayPal or
Ali express if you go done the Yoho route
There are loads of seller personally I would not buy form these traders.
They are middle men I think.
Someone maybe able to chime in maybe SergK he is certainly more knowledgeable
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Has anyone some information about the actual tire clearance? Product description just says 32c. Do you reckon something wider would fit?
Thinking about getting the frame, would like to run it with ext width 34mm wheels
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Has anyone some information about the actual tire clearance? Product description just says 32c. Do you reckon something wider would fit?
Thinking about getting the frame, would like to run it with ext width 34mm wheels
It would be a tight fit. I run 32mm tires, and there is not that much clearance left, as you can see in the photo.
edit: its not on the photo but the tire clearence to the left chainstay is really really small i dont think you can fit any bigger tyre on there.
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It would be a tight fit. I run 32mm tires, and there is not that much clearance left, as you can see in the photo.
Dovh,
When you were building up your bike, did you have any issues with the internal cable routing?
I followed the routing in the SL8 manual, but I think the rear hydraulic hose might be a bit too short inside the frame. When I turn the bars to the right (from the front of the bike), they spring back to centre like the hose is too tight.
I’m guessing I need to push more hydraulic hose into the frame to give it some slack.
Hope that makes sense — or if anyone else has come across this and can help, feel free to jump in!
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Hi,
I have read back through the thread but cannot immdeiately see that any buyers have set up a 1x groupsent on the frame. Ideally, i would be using the antiipated Force 1x13 XPLR due to be announed shortly. Though that probably means UDH.
cheers
Bob
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Hi,
I have read back through the thread but cannot immdeiately see that any buyers have set up a 1x groupsent on the frame. Ideally, i would be using the antiipated Force 1x13 XPLR due to be announed shortly. Though that probably means UDH.
cheers
Bob
Tan Tan have just release a new frame looks similar to the X68
Has UDH
The X70 $469usd
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Internal-Cable-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X70-Disc-Brake-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-UDH-Hanger-p6452343.html
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Dovh,
When you were building up your bike, did you have any issues with the internal cable routing?
I followed the routing in the SL8 manual, but I think the rear hydraulic hose might be a bit too short inside the frame. When I turn the bars to the right (from the front of the bike), they spring back to centre like the hose is too tight.
I’m guessing I need to push more hydraulic hose into the frame to give it some slack.
Hope that makes sense — or if anyone else has come across this and can help, feel free to jump in!
Hey Sander, nope, I didn't have this issue.
What my friend did is with everything assembled to fully turn the bars in the opposite direction of where the back brake hose is coming out (in my case, full left from the rider's perspective), and then we cut the hose based on that. Because in this position, it should be at its longest that is needed. I did have an issue with internal cable damper that would scoot up the brake line into the headset and squeek whenever i turned left. I fixed it by pushing it further down and its been all good since.
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Hi,
I have read back through the thread but cannot immdeiately see that any buyers have set up a 1x groupsent on the frame. Ideally, i would be using the antiipated Force 1x13 XPLR due to be announed shortly. Though that probably means UDH.
cheers
Bob
Then you must have overlooked my built (page 52 and 58). I built it with Wheeltop shifting and Ekar cassette, which makes 1-by 13-speed systes possible without needing UDH and at a much lower pricepoint (which might change when 13-speed force is available).
The SP-R088 is an alternative with UDH. We have both frames "in the family". Both are nice and light.
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Tan Tan have just release a new frame looks similar to the X68
Has UDH
The X70 $469usd
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Internal-Cable-Carbon-Fiber-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X70-Disc-Brake-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-UDH-Hanger-p6452343.html
Interesting. Not quite the same frame -i will email them
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Hey Sander, nope, I didn't have this issue.
What my friend did is with everything assembled to fully turn the bars in the opposite direction of where the back brake hose is coming out (in my case, full left from the rider's perspective), and then we cut the hose based on that. Because in this position, it should be at its longest that is needed. I did have an issue with internal cable damper that would scoot up the brake line into the headset and squeek whenever i turned left. I fixed it by pushing it further down and its been all good since.
Thanks
good idea Will give that a go!
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Then you must have overlooked my built (page 52 and 58). I built it with Wheeltop shifting and Ekar cassette, which makes 1-by 13-speed systes possible without needing UDH and at a much lower pricepoint (which might change when 13-speed force is available).
The SP-R088 is an alternative with UDH. We have both frames "in the family". Both are nice and light.
Apologies-i was scanning for keywords like Sram XPLR and also your pictures didnt show which would have alerted me to a 1x set up. And my old eyes ...
Nice looking bike!
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By the way, the x70 does look identical to the SP-R088... I guess it's the same frame.
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Headtube and stem/handlebar interfae are different. I think.Dont trust my eyesight :)
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"Road the TT-X68 today for the first time. Added a ride and ended up with a Century Day. I posted a picture of the bike on my first Strava ride today. It definitely is better than my Tarmac SL7 in every way. I'll be at the Illinois State Criterium Championship June 7th if you want to hook up and check it out. 56 cm - 14.6 lbs. without pedals and cages."
Some real world feedback from a friend of mine. I'll be seeing this in person in a few weeks.
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By the way, the x70 does look identical to the SP-R088... I guess it's the same frame.
It is probably the same mold (there are mold sellers and manufacturers can buy these). We can see that with the speeder cycling/adapt aero frame, Velo build and TanTan endurance/ultimate imitation as well.
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"new bike days" often seem like a century day at first, but direct comparisons in wattage give the precise information ;)
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Would be interesting to see a comparison between X68 and X70
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A
That's crazy. Very exciting. Looking fwd to hearing more. Spesh epitomizes the concept of secret sauce layup and the whole "ride a tarmac and you'll never want to ride anything else" vibe. And then this :D
Sander2177's ride review will also be super interesting.
If i ever get the time to build the bloody thing! ;D.
I will try and get it built this week hopefully!
Like I have said before the Venge was a harsh ride probably great for a crits but not for the long rides I am used to doing and the great British roads don't help!
The SL8 only just beats the SL7, and that for me was only on comfort nothing more.
Hopefully I can do a decent review like Patrick!
But ceratinly intrested in what Patrick has to say
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Update-Post:
Payed: 25th of April vía Alibaba
QC-pictures: 19th of May
Delivery: 19th of may DPD to Germany
16 working days!!!
Let’s see how fast DPD will be!
Quite happy with the paint job, can’t wait to put my fingers on it!!!
I do not regret the decision of changing from Taiwan Peter to TanTan.
Moreover I’m considering to avoid putting decals on it if I need to be honest.
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Update-Post:
Payed: 25th of April vía Alibaba
QC-pictures: 19th of May
Delivery: 19th of may DPD to Germany
16 working days!!!
Let’s see how fast DPD will be!
Quite happy with the paint job, can’t wait to put my fingers on it!!!
I do not regret the decision of changing from Taiwan Peter to TanTan.
Moreover I’m considering to avoid putting decals on it if I need to be honest.
Is that the pearl white matte color?
That looks even better than glossy !!!
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Is that the pearl white matte color?
That looks even better than glossy !!!
It’s the color code below:
YS-775-1 MATT
Unfortunately TanTan has no experience in painting the Satin Fog Tint with red ghost pearl so I looked into their colour catalog and that was the most similar in my opinion. Moreover I even prefer that colour than the original one. This was the reference that convinced me (find attached)
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It would interesting to know the weight of the fork, if you could.
I bought mine from Taiwan Eisen and the fork weight just 321gr, uncut...
I tested frame and fork on light/medium gravel roads and it is all OK but I weight just 65kg.
I am considering to buy a new fork from Tan Tan if it is effectively a "reinforced" version.
Thank you.
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It would interesting to know the weight of the fork, if you could.
I bought mine from Taiwan Eisen and the fork weight just 321gr, uncut...
I tested frame and fork on light/medium gravel roads and it is all OK but I weight just 65kg.
I am considering to buy a new fork from Tan Tan if it is effectively a "reinforced" version.
Thank you.
Well if it helps for my frame last week 54cm
Pictured is my
Genuine SL8 fork 375grams uncut.
Tan Tan uncut was 399grams and cut was 370grams
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Well if it helps for my frame last week 54cm
Pictured is my
Genuine SL8 fork 375grams uncut.
Tan Tan uncut was 399grams and cut was 370grams
so it seems like they reinforced the front forks after the breakage? Would be interesting to know. Did you mention the breaking Fork to them?
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Do you really think they change manufacturing that quickly?
Especially since people are discussing the possibility the frames aren’t even made in house.
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so it seems like they reinforced the front forks after the breakage? Would be interesting to know. Did you mention the breaking Fork to them?
My bike was completed before the post on this forum about the fork issue, so I’m wondering — have there been any other reports? Is my fork a newer version? The truth is, we’ll probably never know, although it is significantly heavier than everyone else's so makes you wonder!
I did ask mention the fork failure and was told:
'The front fork failure is an exception. The fork is broken so badly, it must be man-made, and definitely not a product quality problem.'
So who do you believe — Core or Tan Tan?
Most people would probably side with Core, since they have nothing to gain by lying.
On the other hand, Tan Tan is unlikely to admit liability, as it could hurt their sales — and as far as we know, this is the only incident of its kind."
Always lots of speculation unless Core gets the fork inspected and publish the results.
Like some of the more knowledge forum members have said it looks like a lack of resin
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The spec is 321 plus or minus 40g. That's a pretty wide spec. So 321 is on the lower edge, and 388 above. I doubt very much there has been any running change, and I doubt that the weight of the fork has much to do with the failure shown here. The failure shown here certainly appears to be a lack of bonding in the fracture area, but that doesn't mean they skimped on something, it more likely is that the prepreg wasn't correct or was contaminated.
I doubt there's any actual dry fiber and liquid resin used in any part of these frames, its prepreg and heat. Prepreg needs to be kept clean and cold and cured at precise times and temps, but its unlikely that it was "missing" enough resin to change the weight.
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I doubt there's any actual dry fiber and liquid resin used in any part of these frames, its prepreg and heat. Prepreg needs to be kept clean and cold and cured at precise times and temps, but its unlikely that it was "missing" enough resin to change the weight.
Exactly
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I did a race this Saturday, and there were many fast descents over 70km/h, with heavy braking at the bottom to a sharp left.
There was also a gravel section with rough terrain and a descent there where I was going over 50km/h. The frame and fork survived, and everything is ok. I'm 191cm and I weigh 101-2kg with all the gels on me, it was closer to 102kg i'd say :D :D
I hope that this was a good stress test for my frame. I was like, if it goes, at least it is at the place where the ambulance is relatively close by (joke not joke :D). Also, to put the hat on my stupidity, I rode that with my cracked seat post, which held up fine too :D
This is how the bike looked after :D
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I did a race this Saturday, and there were many fast descents over 70km/h, with heavy braking at the bottom to a sharp left.
There was also a gravel section with rough terrain and a descent there where I was going over 50km/h. The frame and fork survived, and everything is ok. I'm 191cm and I weigh 101-2kg with all the gels on me, it was closer to 102kg i'd say :D :D
I hope that this was a good stress test for my frame. I was like, if it goes, at least it is at the place where the ambulance is relatively close by (joke not joke :D). Also, to put the hat on my stupidity, I rode that with my cracked seat post, which held up fine too :D
This is how the bike looked after :D
Yeah, I'm pretty confident in mine at this point with 400-500 mi on it.
As to you post, IIRC the way its cracked is sort of opposite how its loaded.
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Ok build is coming along slowly
Fee small parts seeing this week seatpost clamp
Upgrade etc.
Fitted a Gen SL8 spacer kit had to sand the back ever so slightly as touching the frame and had to sand the computer mount thread as it was protruding.
Also some titanium upgraded for the shifters and caliper
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Ti Kit was from Ali express £57gbp cheaper than TiParts and SParts
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Photo
Quite interesting, you've got a totally different top cap for the stem than I did receive, will post pictures later
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Update-Post:
Payed: 25th of April vía Alibaba
QC-pictures: 19th of May
Delivery: 19th of may DPD to Germany
16 working days!!!
Let’s see how fast DPD will be!
Quite happy with the paint job, can’t wait to put my fingers on it!!!
I do not regret the decision of changing from Taiwan Peter to TanTan.
Moreover I’m considering to avoid putting decals on it if I need to be honest.
Looking great!
How heavy is that frame?
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Quite interesting, you've got a totally different top cap for the stem than I did receive, will post pictures later
It’s an aftermarket top cap
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At least its cheaper than Alpitude. Wish there was an ali alternative...
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It is little off topic but is this carbon structure of SL8 copy normal ? What are these « patches » in the rear ?
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It is little off topic but is this carbon structure of SL8 copy normal ? What are these « patches » in the rear ?
Looks off, also different fork and seatpost as far as I can see. In doubt about chainstay lenght as well.
Seems off; maybe a one off project with 'ass sniffer'/SL8-inspiration (but not exact copy)?
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It is little off topic but is this carbon structure of SL8 copy normal ? What are these « patches » in the rear ?
Close to the BB-Junction and at the seattube/rear stay junction will be where they overwrapped the carbon over the bonding of the main triangle and rear stays. What they did just above the rear brake caliper mounts, I have no idea
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Has anyone some information about the actual tire clearance? Product description just says 32c. Do you reckon something wider would fit?
Thinking about getting the frame, would like to run it with ext width 34mm wheels
I'm running 30's on 33mm external/26 internal rims. Tires measure out to an actual 32, and there's a small amount of room. I think you could get away with a 32 on a wide rim that measured out to 34, but not much more.
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At least its cheaper than Alpitude. Wish there was an ali alternative...
Looked but no alternatives unfortunately >:(
Most of the bits like titanium screws all from Ali and bottle cage Aluminium ones as well, time consuming ordering individual bolts but got there in the end.
The seat Post clamp replacement parts should arrive this week as well and a bolt and barrel nut for the seat post wedge.
The bolt with X68 clamp the head should be a shallow one as it just pops up which looks crappy but the replacement should fix that!
People have said surfaces have been faced but they have not bee properly machine faced and well there not faced at all.
They have masked the mounts for the callipers which I have had to sand of the excess paint over spray and the same with the drop outs sanded with some 320grit and the thru axle threads also have overspray
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Yeah, I ordered the yokes and bolts. Had a pair of yokes but they were 4 mil- would have been great in the back but I got tired of searching for a long enough gold ti bolt.
If we knew someone with the skill we could 3d print some plastic caps that would be plenty light.
Mine was pretty nicely cleaned up, enough that it appeared faced, but I bought a complete bike ... I wanted wheeltop anyway and didn't want to mess with brake install, although I'll be swapping out the calipers anyway.
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Yeah, I ordered the yokes and bolts. Had a pair of yokes but they were 4 mil- would have been great in the back but I got tired of searching for a long enough gold ti bolt.
If we knew someone with the skill we could 3d print some plastic caps that would be plenty light.
Mine was pretty nicely cleaned up, enough that it appeared faced, but I bought a complete bike ... I wanted wheeltop anyway and didn't want to mess with brake install, although I'll be swapping out the calipers anyway.
It was no big deal — I just wrapped some electrical tape around it, grabbed a sanding block and some 320-grit paper, and got the job done.
Caliper are on so hopefully the mounts are actually flat ;D
The yokes, bolts, and cradle have arrived in the UK, so hopefully I’ll get them tomorrow or maybe Thursday. Then it’s just a bit more work with the 320-grit on the back hole, and the M5 should go in with minimal fuss — no need to mess around too much to get it fitted.
Once I’ve got the saddle height dialled in, I might trim a bit off the seatpost.
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It was no big deal — I just wrapped some electrical tape around it, grabbed a sanding block and some 320-grit paper, and got the job done.
Caliper are on so hopefully the mounts are actually flat ;D
The yokes, bolts, and cradle have arrived in the UK, so hopefully I’ll get them tomorrow or maybe Thursday. Then it’s just a bit more work with the 320-grit on the back hole, and the M5 should go in with minimal fuss — no need to mess around too much to get it fitted.
Once I’ve got the saddle height dialled in, I might trim a bit off the seatpost.
Hey Sander, did that direct mount hanger just fit on there, or did you have to do something? The one I got was sticking out from the frame a bit too much, and I ended up not using it in the end. If so, can you send me a link to the one you have? Also, how nice is the fit of that MagCAD Garmin mount? Will probably order it because the tantan one is not the greatest.
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I did ask mention the fork failure and was told:
'The front fork failure is an exception. The fork is broken so badly, it must be man-made, and definitely not a product quality problem.'
WTF? Pretty interesting how they try to wriggle out of a situation... The fork was already inspected by the guys where I will do the CT Scan of the frame. Their findings were more than clear on human-made mistake or production failure. They said this happens to forks of framesets in much higher price-ranges as well, so for me thats "ok". However, telling the story of me not being able to handle/ride that bike the right way sucks. I also offered them to take a look at the fork and investigate from their side, but it seems their not interested.
They can be happy to have a customer-oriented sales represantive as Vivian, but the guys behind the scene ... meh.
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WTF? Pretty interesting how they try to wriggle out of a situation... The fork was already inspected by the guys where I will do the CT Scan of the frame. Their findings were more than clear on human-made mistake or production failure. They said this happens to forks of framesets in much higher price-ranges as well, so for me thats "ok". However, telling the story of me not being able to handle/ride that bike the right way sucks. I also offered them to take a look at the fork and investigate from their side, but it seems their not interested.
They can be happy to have a customer-oriented sales represantive as Vivian, but the guys behind the scene ... meh.
TanTan is definitely dead for me.
I paid 56 working days ago (!), 21 days ago I was told that they painted it wrong and now have to produce a new frame in UD matt.
I have NO delivery date yet.
Vivian is sending BS mails and is no help at all, just offering me a refund (exchange rate €/$ has dropped 10% in the meantime; postage costs are no longer split between 2 frames).
Total joke, TanTan never makes the frames themselves, otherwise it would be much quicker to sort out.
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WTF? Pretty interesting how they try to wriggle out of a situation... The fork was already inspected by the guys where I will do the CT Scan of the frame. Their findings were more than clear on human-made mistake or production failure. They said this happens to forks of framesets in much higher price-ranges as well, so for me thats "ok". However, telling the story of me not being able to handle/ride that bike the right way sucks. I also offered them to take a look at the fork and investigate from their side, but it seems their not interested.
They can be happy to have a customer-oriented sales represantive as Vivian, but the guys behind the scene ... meh.
Well, it really was no surprise!
Let’s be honest—if they admitted fault, it could seriously hurt their sales. It’s not unusual to see this kind of response from some brands. That’s where the bigger names have an edge: you get that added safety net through proper warranties and reliable after-sales support, but we all onow this when we buy these types of frames
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TanTan is definitely dead for me.
I paid 56 working days ago (!), 21 days ago I was told that they painted it wrong and now have to produce a new frame in UD matt.
I have NO delivery date yet.
Vivian is sending BS mails and is no help at all, just offering me a refund (exchange rate €/$ has dropped 10% in the meantime; postage costs are no longer split between 2 frames).
Total joke, TanTan never makes the frames themselves, otherwise it would be much quicker to sort out.
Well, this is exactly what happens when dealing directly with these Chinese factories. Honestly, I think it’s to be expected when buying these frames — it often seems like only two or three people are handling sales, probably against a mountain of enquiries and emails every day.
That said, I think this is one of, if not the most popular frame they offer, so it's pretty clear they’re struggling to keep up with the demand.
Still, they’d be so much better off just telling the truth upfront. I’ll never understand why they don’t. Managing expectations would go a long way in keeping people on-side.
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Well, this is exactly what happens when dealing directly with these Chinese factories. Honestly, I think it’s to be expected when buying these frames — it often seems like only two or three people are handling sales, probably against a mountain of enquiries and emails every day.
That said, I think this is one of, if not the most popular frame they offer, so it's pretty clear they’re struggling to keep up with the demand.
Still, they’d be so much better off just telling the truth upfront. I’ll never understand why they don’t. Managing expectations would go a long way in keeping people on-side.
There is already an update on this case, will share soon.....not aging well
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After five days of back-and-forth emails with Ann (Vivian?), I’ve finally placed the order for a full bike build!
They mentioned 25–30 working days for production, plus 10–18 days for shipping (to a European country via DPD).
Fingers crossed everything goes smoothly—and that the frame and fork arrive flawless.
I’m excited!
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There is already an update on this case, will share soon.....not aging well
Its painful mate but you will get there in the end!
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I had a cracked steer tube on my Giant Propel two months after I bought it. About $4000 all-in from an authorized dealer.
Not only did I neither claimed fault nor assumed it was a factory defect, I even told Giant I would be okay paying for a new fork. The color was a basic matte black.
Giant kept trying to deny my claim regardless of who would responsible of paying for the replacement fork. After escalating to the regional USA manager, Giant said it would take a whopping 3-4 months. For a black fork. And then magically a week later they had a change of heart and said they'd cover the replacement/installation at no charge, and it would only take two weeks.
Pretty sure they seen my YouTube channel. Just a shame it took something like that to get service though.
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I had a cracked steer tube on my Giant Propel two months after I bought it. About $4000 all-in from an authorized dealer.
Not only did I neither claimed fault nor assumed it was a factory defect, I even told Giant I would be okay paying for a new fork. The color was a basic matte black.
Giant kept trying to deny my claim regardless of who would responsible of paying for the replacement fork. After escalating to the regional USA manager, Giant said it would take a whopping 3-4 months. For a black fork. And then magically a week later they had a change of heart and said they'd cover the replacement/installation at no charge, and it would only take two weeks.
Pretty sure they seen my YouTube channel. Just a shame it took something like that to get service though.
I remember the video but watched it again.
You always expect more from the big brands but it’s not always the case.
I’m dealing with Michelin tyres at the moment I appreciate it’s only tyres but it’s been 6 weeks and I always feeling like when I am doing this its me chasing and doing the hard work.
But as always I will persevere and get there in the end!
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I remember the video but watched it again.
You always expect more from the big brands but it’s not always the case.
I’m dealing with Michelin tyres at the moment I appreciate it’s only tyres but it’s been 6 weeks and I always feeling like when I am doing this its me chasing and doing the hard work.
But as always I will persevere and get there in the end!
Speaking of tires, I had a problem after 100 km of Continental tires. I sent them a mail and asked some photos. Nothing more required and they sent me new tires. Good after sale service for Continental.
They even asked the serial number. Maybe They wanted to check all their batch.
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Speaking of tires, I had a problem after 100 km of Continental tires. I sent them a mail and asked some photos. Nothing more required and they sent me new tires. Good after sale service for Continental.
They even asked the serial number. Maybe They wanted to check all their batch.
Never used Michelin’s bought there cups for the mallorca 312 we’re a good price from Lordgun like £30 GBP. 60miles in sidewalk tear purchased a replacement not even 100 miles and same again in Mallorca sidewall tear in front tyre ;D!
In the end I went back to trusty GP5000s and replaced front and rear which were the price in Mallorca £70gbp each.
Anyway Patrick anymore updates on your X68 experience have you pulled the trigger yet ;D ;D
Should be some lurkers here with X68s??
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yesterday i've done first ride (29km - https://www.strava.com/activities/14541162130) and today second one (76km - https://www.strava.com/activities/14549743379). it's much much smoother and comfortable than my aluminium Rose SL Pro. today I had small issue during the ride, after a very fast descend on shitty tarmac rear dereillure loose up sibI couldn't change a gear. some random guy helped me with tighting this screw (I didn't took my imbus). same story with computer holder, screw loose up as well on the same descent.
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yesterday i've done first ride (29km - https://www.strava.com/activities/14541162130) and today second one (76km - https://www.strava.com/activities/14549743379). it's much much smoother and comfortable than my aluminium Rose SL Pro. today I had small issue during the ride, after a very fast descend on shitty tarmac rear dereillure loose up sibI couldn't change a gear. some random guy helped me with tighting this screw (I didn't took my imbus). same story with computer holder, screw loose up as well on the same descent.
Few people have mentioned computer mount screw.
Maybe worth a small dab of loctite thread lock
Loctite 222 (Purple) Low
Small bolts, e.g., bottle cages, derailleur screws
Loctite 243 (Blue) Medium
Stem bolts, brake caliper bolts, rotor bolts
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Not directly x68 related, but I did swap my wheeltop calipers for Campagnolo. Also went from 160 rear to 140.
Weights-
Calipers-Campy 127, Wheeltop 150 (both with pads and hardware)
Rotors - Campy 123, 155 Shimano sm rt20s supplied by tantan - 350
Adapter (not needed now with 140) 12
So 135g saved.
Really nice difference in intial bite point and modulation as well, pretty much as documented here: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175550
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Debating between an X68 and the SPCycle R088. With AliExpress promos I can get the SPCycle for about $260 CAD cheaper, anyone have thoughts if it’s worth springing the extra for the X68.
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DFS crank installed
They have not written the instructions and said use Cybreis which did not work ;D Elilee cranks instructions worked on the end! ;D
Slowly but surely coming together!
Next to do get the calipers working and dial in the throw and reach of the levers!
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TanTan is definitely dead for me.
I paid 56 working days ago (!), 21 days ago I was told that they painted it wrong and now have to produce a new frame in UD matt.
I have NO delivery date yet.
Vivian is sending BS mails and is no help at all, just offering me a refund (exchange rate €/$ has dropped 10% in the meantime; postage costs are no longer split between 2 frames).
Total joke, TanTan never makes the frames themselves, otherwise it would be much quicker to sort out.
Did you order the frame in one of the colors that were available for selection other than a basic black? Or did you order a special colour?
I am asking because I ordered a prebuilt bike in (pearl) white which is a colour you can directly choose but got hit with nearly the exact same message as you did as well.
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good morning. How many handlebar spacers (cm) does this tt- x68 frame come with?
Thanks
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good morning. How many handlebar spacers (cm) does this tt- x68 frame come with?
Thanks
Should be
1X Transition's spacer for frame
3x10mm spacers
1X 5mm spacer
1X Handlebar transition spacer
So that’s 35mm of main same as genuine SL8.
They don’t supply one of the slammed spacers like the real thing.
Why do you ask
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because I would need at least 50mm
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DFS crank installed
They have not written the instructions and said use Cybreis which did not work ;D Elilee cranks instructions worked on the end! ;D
Slowly but surely coming together!
Next to do get the calipers working and dial in the throw and reach of the levers!
Kind of seems like the guy doesn’t know what’s up and is just reselling
Crankarm looks fine though, but the bolt is a bit frayed, or is it the lighting?
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because I would need at least 50mm
50mm I would say maybe you need a bigger frame which has a higher stack meaning less spacers.
What size frame have you ordered?
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Did you order the frame in one of the colors that were available for selection other than a basic black? Or did you order a special colour?
I am asking because I ordered a prebuilt bike in (pearl) white which is a colour you can directly choose but got hit with nearly the exact same message as you did as well.
Custom paint which was done after 35 days.
Yesterday I got told that they finished a 52 in BLACK matt (was supposed to be UD matt so another failure) which took 21 days.
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Kind of seems like the guy doesn’t know what’s up and is just reselling
Crankarm looks fine though, but the bolt is a bit frayed, or is it the lighting?
DFS claim to manufacture this crank and even supplied test data for stiffness.
When I contacted them directly, they mentioned they hadn’t yet produced installation instructions, as they were in the process of moving premises. I did point out it’s not ideal selling a crank like this without proper instructions!
They initially said to use Cybrei’s instructions, but after installing, it was clear those weren’t suitable. In the end, I followed the Elilee crank instructions, and that worked — the main issue was just getting the spacers installed correctly.
As for the bolt, it’s absolutely fine. I’ve had to take the crank on and off a few times, so what you’re seeing is just some black paint worn off the outer edge.
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DFS claim to manufacture this crank and even supplied test data for stiffness.
When I contacted them directly, they mentioned they hadn’t yet produced installation instructions, as they were in the process of moving premises. I did point out it’s not ideal selling a crank like this without proper instructions!
They initially said to use Cybrei’s instructions, but after installing, it was clear those weren’t suitable. In the end, I followed the Elilee crank instructions, and that worked — the main issue was just getting the spacers installed correctly.
As for the bolt, it’s absolutely fine. I’ve had to take the crank on and off a few times, so what you’re seeing is just some black paint worn off the outer edge.
Yeah saw that chart on their page.
Interested to see if you can confirm this when you have finished your build.
Thanks for your info.
Was curiosity about the bolt because the one lexon supplied with theirs was a bit soft.
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Yeah saw that chart on their page.
Interested to see if you can confirm this when you have finished your build.
Thanks for your info.
Was curiosity about the bolt because the one lexon supplied with theirs was a bit soft.
No problem
Probably took the bloody crank off 6-7 times yesterday ;D but all is ok.
Will get the trusty old sharpie out to touch up ;D
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I tried modifying the saddle clamp and rails with yokes, but it didn’t work out.
So, I mixed and matched parts to reduce the weight—used the carbon cradle and one of the titanium M5 bolts on the back.
The seatpost weight is now down from 168g to 153.5g.
I've ordered an M6 titanium bolt from AliExpress to replace the stock front bolt on the clamp.
I'll also trim about 30mm off the seatpost, bringing it down to 350mm—the same length as my Darimo post on the SL8.
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Also some picture of the build and yes I have decal I know this will divide opinion with your guys.
Getting some hanging scale delivered tomorrow hopefully so will do a weigh in so far.
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.
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.
what is your height and inseam?
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what is your height and inseam?
No idea of inseam
Height is 178cm
Saddle height is 74cm from centre of BB to top of saddle
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Couldn't get the yoke to align with the rear bolt?
I was looking at options on ali-there are a few for Cervelo and F12 seatposts that use a flat carbon plate on the upper surface, was going to order one and try to modify it.
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Looking great!
Damn I’m so excited about your thoughts.
How many miles did you have on your sl8?
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Looking great!
Damn I’m so excited about your thoughts.
How many miles did you have on your sl8?
Would say about 8-10,000kms
I got my SL8 on release back I think it was in August 2023 I love riding that bike :D
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Couldn't get the yoke to align with the rear bolt?
I was looking at options on ali-there are a few for Cervelo and F12 seatposts that use a flat carbon plate on the upper surface, was going to order one and try to modify it.
Hey glepore
First, you’ll need an M5 barrel nut for the front.
since the yokes have internal threads—this is fine for the rear, but the front yoke needs to be unthreaded so the bolt can pass through and tighten into the barrel nut. I’ll look into ordering a suitable M5 barrel nut, and filing out the threads on the front yoke should do the trick.
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Yeah. I have the front bolt in ti. Thinking I'll just drill out the yoke to suit, assuming its long enough...
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Yeah. I have the front bolt in ti. Thinking I'll just drill out the yoke to suit, assuming its long enough...
Well I might order another M5 bolts.
The standard one is M6 is 35mm so might get a Another M5 40mm to allow for the thickness of the yoke and will need to check the outer size of the barrel nut not sure how thick that is
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I finally got the seat post from TanTan. It took around 14 days to arrive, and the seat post is raw carbon with a glossy clear coat. They did say if I'm okay with it, they had it already produced, I'd say. Otherwise, by the looks of it, I would still be waiting because of the painting bottleneck. Doesn't look that bad, but I'll order a black matte one from them, and when it arrives, it arrives.
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I finally got the seat post from TanTan. It took around 14 days to arrive, and the seat post is raw carbon with a glossy clear coat. They did say if I'm okay with it, they had it already produced, I'd say. Otherwise, by the looks of it, I would still be waiting because of the painting bottleneck. Doesn't look that bad, but I'll order a black matte one from them, and when it arrives, it arrives.
I’m actually jealous ;D, I like!
With me chopping down my seatpost I’m planning to order a spare anyway.
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I finally got the seat post from TanTan. It took around 14 days to arrive, and the seat post is raw carbon with a glossy clear coat. They did say if I'm okay with it, they had it already produced, I'd say. Otherwise, by the looks of it, I would still be waiting because of the painting bottleneck. Doesn't look that bad, but I'll order a black matte one from them, and when it arrives, it arrives.
Scuff it with some 2000g, it matte down the finish...
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Quick update on the build
Finished and bled the brakes — first time doing it myself, and it wasn’t too bad. Just needed a bit of patience.
Cut down the seatpost took off 35 mm while keeping the minimum 100 mm insertion length.
Stock seatpost weight: 168.4 g
Modified seatpost: 146.2 g
Going to have another go at using the lightweight yokes I ordered, but I’ve had to order an M5 titanium barrel nut to make it work.
The seatpost originally uses an M6 barrel nut at the front, so adapting it required a few changes. The front yoke threads will also need to be drilled out — if you don’t, the yoke just spins when tightening into the barrel nut, so there’s no way to get proper clamping. Drilling out the threads lets the barrel nut do its job and lock everything in place securely.
Once the M5 barrel nut arrives, I’ll see if the lightweight setup finally works as planned.
Will post an update once the rest of the parts arrive — assuming it all works as planned!
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First race on the bike today.
https://www.strava.com/activities/14588664291/overview
went very well, the bike did great! Cant really say a bad word about it.
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First race on the bike today.
https://www.strava.com/activities/14588664291/overview
went very well, the bike did great! Cant really say a bad word about it.
Daaaaaaaaang! Well done kind sir!
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First race on the bike today.
https://www.strava.com/activities/14588664291/overview
went very well, the bike did great! Cant really say a bad word about it.
Well done good result
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Well if it helps for my frame last week 54cm
Pictured is my
Genuine SL8 fork 375grams uncut.
Tan Tan uncut was 399grams and cut was 370grams
I might be a noob, how do I order from Tan Tan, can you point me in the right direction please
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Well done good result
Oh my God, when I see results like this, I just want to go to the garage and cut my bike in two, I'm a lead duck... ;)
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Also some picture of the build and yes I have decal I know this will divide opinion with your guys.
Getting some hanging scale delivered tomorrow hopefully so will do a weigh in so far.
65R/55F wheels?
Nice bike, congrats!
PS: I don't like the purple stickers. ;)
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I finally got the seat post from TanTan. It took around 14 days to arrive, and the seat post is raw carbon with a glossy clear coat. They did say if I'm okay with it, they had it already produced, I'd say. Otherwise, by the looks of it, I would still be waiting because of the painting bottleneck. Doesn't look that bad, but I'll order a black matte one from them, and when it arrives, it arrives.
My opinion: matte is better ;)
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First race on the bike today.
https://www.strava.com/activities/14588664291/overview
went very well, the bike did great! Cant really say a bad word about it.
Complimenti!
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65R/55F wheels?
Nice bike, congrats!
PS: I don't like the purple stickers. ;)
Thanks
The wheels are 65Rear and 60Front.
Well purple not everyone’s cup of tea obviously but I like the fact I can change them.
What colour would you go with?
Maybe I wil order black matt
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I might be a noob, how do I order from Tan Tan, can you point me in the right direction please
Vivian Tan Tan
WhatsApp
+86 136 9093 8214
vivian@tantancycling.com
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1160
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html
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Thanks
The wheels are 65Rear and 60Front.
Well purple not everyone’s cup of tea obviously but I like the fact I can change them.
What colour would you go with?
Maybe I wil order black matt
Actually, I really like purple as a color....think that I was undecided about choosing it for the frame.
I don't like the combination of purple stickers with the frame....if I had to choose, I would probably go for an iridescent or chameleon color that fades into blue or green, but also gold or bronze/copper....certainly not matte black.
However, instead of applying only the Specialized front logo, I would evaluate the choice of a different logo of your liking, rather that of Seraph, or of your own invention (and I would not put any writing on the handlebars)....for my frame (no X68) I had a small sticker made with a custom logo and writing to apply to the upper part of the horizontal tube (in addition to those of the manufacturer, but with a custom font). ;)
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Actually, I really like purple as a color....think that I was undecided about choosing it for the frame.
I don't like the combination of purple stickers with the frame....if I had to choose, I would probably go for an iridescent or chameleon color that fades into blue or green, but also gold or bronze/copper....certainly not matte black.
However, instead of applying only the Specialized front logo, I would evaluate the choice of a different logo of your liking, rather that of Seraph, or of your own invention (and I would not put any writing on the handlebars)....for my frame (no X68) I had a small sticker made with a custom logo and writing to apply to the upper part of the horizontal tube (in addition to those of the manufacturer, but with a custom font). ;)
The photo show the purple as a lot lightener than it actually is.
And I have a just applied the manufacturer decal to the down tube.
I’m not 100% on the purple as I expected the frame to be a lot darker more black but as it’s UD Raw it can appear grey so I may even apply a matt grey decal but I will change them.
Not a fan of iridescent logos myself and I have gold chrome on my SL8.
Black was an option as I wanted a more stealthy look for the bike and as the purple is dark it does not stick out.
SpeedyDecal are also doing a graffiti style Decal this is actually similar to custom bike painters Probike Design they have been painting on customer bikes
https://speedydecal.com/index.php?id_product=3507&rewrite=s-works-scritte-in-stile-graffiti-comics-fumetto-kit-adesivi-telaio&controller=product&locale=en
https://www.instagram.com/probikedesign?igsh=MWNtOTViOGpwMzhmbw==
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I’ve been a silent observer on various forums discussing different frame options, and eventually decided on the TT-X68. Unfortunately, I now regret that choice—here’s why.
I placed my order on March 13th, selecting the matte black frame with a glossy black Seraph logo. I was quoted a lead time of 15–20 days. Communication was handled via WhatsApp with Rose.
Aware of potential production delays from others’ experiences, I reached out on April 9th and was told to wait another 7–10 days due to a backlog. I followed up again on April 23rd, only to discover—after several unread messages and eventually emailing Tantan—that Rose had changed her number. I reconnected with her on April 30th and was informed my frame would ship on May 6th, after the Labor Day holiday.
Throughout the process, I remained polite and patient, knowing delays can happen and because I wasn’t in urgent need—I have other bikes to ride. However, on May 6th I received no response. On May 8th, Rose finally replied, saying the frame was ready and she’d send pictures for my review. That’s when I was told the 100/400 handlebar size I initially ordered wasn’t reserved for me. I agreed to wait another week for it to be produced.
Upon reviewing the frame photos and video, I noticed a defect: the middle line of the letter "E" in the logo was missing. I raised this with Rose immediately. On May 10th, she responded that the package had already shipped and claimed the missing line was just hidden under a sticker film that I could peel off. The package arrived on May 23rd—71 days after my order, far from the promised 15–20 days.
Unfortunately, there was no film to remove. Instead, I scratched the paint trying to find it, leaving the logo looking like "SCRAP(H)." Rose’s solution was to send me a new logo to stick on, but that’s not viable—the original logo sticker is embedded deeper in the frame and paint and varnish layers around the logo are rising around the logo. I’m not willing to experiment with DIY fixes on a brand-new frame.
Her latest offer is a $30 refund and a replacement logo, or I can return the frame at my own cost—something I won’t accept. She also mentioned they didn’t charge me for the logo in the first place, which I find irrelevant. I’ve proposed two fair solutions: either they cover the cost of local repainting or handle return shipping.
We’ll see how the conversation continues tomorrow when she’s online again.
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Personally, I don't see any need for "correctness of letters". What's the point of your meticulousness? This is some kind of nonsense.... Personally, I would be happy with individuality!!!
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Did you also got this url for tracking the dpd shipping? http://120.24.110.114:8380/WebTrack
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It is casually hilarious they would fuck up their own logo. Which maybe makes more sense if we believe those saying that tantan outsources the production (and painting?) of this model.
I would have never ordered this frame with a seraph logo in the 1st place, so i'm not sure what i'd do. I'm pretty sure they wont care about you, because they are clearly overwhelmed by demand (money talks), and they've proven on this thread over and over that they have no issues over promising and under delivering (it's human nature to treat your customer like shit if people are fighting to be your customer). In their mind, you probably have no leverage, and they also probably feel that you are complaining about something trivial in the 1st place. The "in their mind" here is important.
TanTan is just reselling this frame, this is 100% the same frame being available in the counterfeit market with famous decals.
I've seen both frame irl and no difference.
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I’ve been a silent observer on various forums discussing different frame options, and eventually decided on the TT-X68. Unfortunately, I now regret that choice—here’s why.
I placed my order on March 13th, selecting the matte black frame with a glossy black Seraph logo. I was quoted a lead time of 15–20 days. Communication was handled via WhatsApp with Rose.
Aware of potential production delays from others’ experiences, I reached out on April 9th and was told to wait another 7–10 days due to a backlog. I followed up again on April 23rd, only to discover—after several unread messages and eventually emailing Tantan—that Rose had changed her number. I reconnected with her on April 30th and was informed my frame would ship on May 6th, after the Labor Day holiday.
Throughout the process, I remained polite and patient, knowing delays can happen and because I wasn’t in urgent need—I have other bikes to ride. However, on May 6th I received no response. On May 8th, Rose finally replied, saying the frame was ready and she’d send pictures for my review. That’s when I was told the 100/400 handlebar size I initially ordered wasn’t reserved for me. I agreed to wait another week for it to be produced.
Upon reviewing the frame photos and video, I noticed a defect: the middle line of the letter "E" in the logo was missing. I raised this with Rose immediately. On May 10th, she responded that the package had already shipped and claimed the missing line was just hidden under a sticker film that I could peel off. The package arrived on May 23rd—71 days after my order, far from the promised 15–20 days.
Unfortunately, there was no film to remove. Instead, I scratched the paint trying to find it, leaving the logo looking like "SCRAP(H)." Rose’s solution was to send me a new logo to stick on, but that’s not viable—the original logo sticker is embedded deeper in the frame and paint and varnish layers around the logo are rising around the logo. I’m not willing to experiment with DIY fixes on a brand-new frame.
Her latest offer is a $30 refund and a replacement logo, or I can return the frame at my own cost—something I won’t accept. She also mentioned they didn’t charge me for the logo in the first place, which I find irrelevant. I’ve proposed two fair solutions: either they cover the cost of local repainting or handle return shipping.
We’ll see how the conversation continues tomorrow when she’s online again.
Is there any reason you need SERAPH logo instead of SCRAPH logo on your fake Tarmac? 30 USD discount nad additional logo is the right solution in my opinion. It's counterfeit frame. Letters don't change it ;)
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Did you also got this url for tracking the dpd shipping? http://120.24.110.114:8380/WebTrack
Thats the correct Tracking link
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I’ve been a silent observer on various forums discussing different frame options, and eventually decided on the TT-X68. Unfortunately, I now regret that choice—here’s why.
I placed my order on March 13th, selecting the matte black frame with a glossy black Seraph logo. I was quoted a lead time of 15–20 days. Communication was handled via WhatsApp with Rose.
Aware of potential production delays from others’ experiences, I reached out on April 9th and was told to wait another 7–10 days due to a backlog. I followed up again on April 23rd, only to discover—after several unread messages and eventually emailing Tantan—that Rose had changed her number. I reconnected with her on April 30th and was informed my frame would ship on May 6th, after the Labor Day holiday.
Throughout the process, I remained polite and patient, knowing delays can happen and because I wasn’t in urgent need—I have other bikes to ride. However, on May 6th I received no response. On May 8th, Rose finally replied, saying the frame was ready and she’d send pictures for my review. That’s when I was told the 100/400 handlebar size I initially ordered wasn’t reserved for me. I agreed to wait another week for it to be produced.
Upon reviewing the frame photos and video, I noticed a defect: the middle line of the letter "E" in the logo was missing. I raised this with Rose immediately. On May 10th, she responded that the package had already shipped and claimed the missing line was just hidden under a sticker film that I could peel off. The package arrived on May 23rd—71 days after my order, far from the promised 15–20 days.
Unfortunately, there was no film to remove. Instead, I scratched the paint trying to find it, leaving the logo looking like "SCRAP(H)." Rose’s solution was to send me a new logo to stick on, but that’s not viable—the original logo sticker is embedded deeper in the frame and paint and varnish layers around the logo are rising around the logo. I’m not willing to experiment with DIY fixes on a brand-new frame.
Her latest offer is a $30 refund and a replacement logo, or I can return the frame at my own cost—something I won’t accept. She also mentioned they didn’t charge me for the logo in the first place, which I find irrelevant. I’ve proposed two fair solutions: either they cover the cost of local repainting or handle return shipping.
We’ll see how the conversation continues tomorrow when she’s online again.
Thanks for sharing your experience — sounds frustrating, but not entirely surprising based on the mixed bag of feedback from purchasers from TanTan
You're absolutely right to point out the inconsistency with the decal. A frame that was supposed to say Seraph but instead says Scraph is clearly not as described, and that alone is grounds for a PayPal dispute.
Honestly, since this is such a blatant SL8 counterfeit, I’ve always been a bit confused as to why anyone would want “Seraph” on it in the first place. I had mine made with no logos at all and just stuck some “S-Works” decals on it — much to the disgust of a few other forum users ;D
If Tan Tan is only offering $30 or asking the buyer to return the frame at their own expense, that’s not a reasonable resolution — especially considering the cost of removing or respraying a logo.
For anyone in this situation:
If you paid through PayPal, gather the following before opening a dispute:
Invoice or order confirmation showing "Seraph" branding
if PayPal rules in the buyer’s favor in a dispute for “item not as described,” they may require the buyer to return the item at their own cost to receive a full refund — unless:
The seller agrees to cover return shipping (unlikely in this case).
PayPal offers return shipping reimbursement (this program has been discontinued in many countries, but it’s worth checking if it's still active where the buyer is).
The return shipping cost is disproportionately high — in rare cases, PayPal may refund without requiring a return if the cost to ship back is unreasonable relative to the item price, but this is not guaranteed.
What the buyer can do:
Check PayPal’s policy for their country regarding return shipping responsibility.
If return shipping is required, get a tracked shipping quote first to decide if it's worth proceeding.
Consider asking PayPal (during the dispute process) if they can waive the return requirement due to the seller’s clear fault (wrong branding, low-value remedy offered, etc.).
So while PayPal can help, the return cost might still fall on the buyer — unless they successfully argue otherwise during the claim.
Clear photos of the incorrect "Scraph" decal
Screenshots or emails showing your communication with the seller
Then open a case in PayPal’s Resolution Center. If the seller doesn’t resolve it quickly, escalate it to a claim. PayPal usually sides with the buyer in clear cases of “item not as described,” especially when supported by good documentation.
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Just take the 30 USD and the logo's and maybe put the missing part of the E on there yourself in a contrasting colour. It's not worth losing sleep over and you are never going to win this argument with that crappy company.
It's good you have indicated this problem here. Maybe you can sleep better if you think about them missing some sales because of you.
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Yeah, I'd just redo either part of the logo or lay over the whole thing with vinyl-lots of folks do that with the Specialized logos on their sl8s to change the color.
Ride the bike, its excellent and you'll forget about the logo issue.
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I suppose only Serpah Scraph really who will know I have never seen a seraph bike myself
And to be fair, I haven’t been in your position myself, so my advice might not be as informed as that of someone more experienced with buying Chinese equipment.
That said, I’d definitely push for more than just $30 USD. Personally, I wouldn't accept such a low-ball offer—I’d go through PayPal and dispute it properly if needed.
The thing is, even if you win the case, you’ll probably still have to pay to ship the item back at you own expense. And how much is that going to cost?
It might be worth getting a shipping estimate first and then seeing if Tan Tan is willing to split the cost. OR see if Tan Tan will arrange shipping there and a you pay half as could be cheaper.
In the UK it would be maybe up to £100gbp and I would rather pay £50 and send the frame back myself than accept $30usd.
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Low key, SCRAPH sounds cooler than SERAPH.
Like some early 2000's punk band.
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I’ve been a silent observer on various forums discussing different frame options, and eventually decided on the TT-X68. Unfortunately, I now regret that choice—here’s why.
I placed my order on March 13th, selecting the matte black frame with a glossy black Seraph logo. I was quoted a lead time of 15–20 days. Communication was handled via WhatsApp with Rose.
Aware of potential production delays from others’ experiences, I reached out on April 9th and was told to wait another 7–10 days due to a backlog. I followed up again on April 23rd, only to discover—after several unread messages and eventually emailing Tantan—that Rose had changed her number. I reconnected with her on April 30th and was informed my frame would ship on May 6th, after the Labor Day holiday.
Throughout the process, I remained polite and patient, knowing delays can happen and because I wasn’t in urgent need—I have other bikes to ride. However, on May 6th I received no response. On May 8th, Rose finally replied, saying the frame was ready and she’d send pictures for my review. That’s when I was told the 100/400 handlebar size I initially ordered wasn’t reserved for me. I agreed to wait another week for it to be produced.
Upon reviewing the frame photos and video, I noticed a defect: the middle line of the letter "E" in the logo was missing. I raised this with Rose immediately. On May 10th, she responded that the package had already shipped and claimed the missing line was just hidden under a sticker film that I could peel off. The package arrived on May 23rd—71 days after my order, far from the promised 15–20 days.
Unfortunately, there was no film to remove. Instead, I scratched the paint trying to find it, leaving the logo looking like "SCRAP(H)." Rose’s solution was to send me a new logo to stick on, but that’s not viable—the original logo sticker is embedded deeper in the frame and paint and varnish layers around the logo are rising around the logo. I’m not willing to experiment with DIY fixes on a brand-new frame.
Her latest offer is a $30 refund and a replacement logo, or I can return the frame at my own cost—something I won’t accept. She also mentioned they didn’t charge me for the logo in the first place, which I find irrelevant. I’ve proposed two fair solutions: either they cover the cost of local repainting or handle return shipping.
We’ll see how the conversation continues tomorrow when she’s online again.
I'll be honest, the way you started this post, I thought you had a catastrophic frame or fork failure.
I don't want to dismiss your feelings; they are valid, you paid for the service, and it didn't deliver as per the requirements.
However, in my humble opinion, you are overreacting.
I'm just here praying that the frame and fork I'll receive won't fail on me and cause a serious injury.
Let's be realistic and adjust our expectations here. It's a Chinese OEM factory that most likely outsources the production of this frame, and they operate via WhatsApp or Email for sales. These things happen.
If you have buyer protection via PayPal you can escalate things.
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I had mine made with no logos at all and just stuck some “S-Works” decals on it — much to the disgust of a few other forum users ;D
[/i]
Might be a little bit OT and I don't want to sound confrontational, but could you explain to me the allure of putting these decals on your frame? I truly struggle to understand if it is to look cool or to pretend to have the real deal or something else entirely. I personally am more than ok with buying a frame that takes inspiration from others as long as it is generic looking enough (not Dogma or SL8 or Madone for example, but a Factor or an SL7 or other less conspicuous frames might look the same as dozens others) and personalize it with my own decals, but when the frame is one of a kind I would either get the real one or else I would feel like I'm just trying to impress, especially with such high priced originals.
Again, not to judge but I am truly curious to understand the thought process behind it!
On the topic itself, I feel like I dodged a giant bullet after considering both the X65 and X67 and pulling the plug after some dubious responses from Tantan about production, waiting time, measures and such.
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No worries at all — you don’t sound confrontational, it’s a fair question.
To be honest, yes — the frame is an SL8 copy, and it’s pretty obvious. There’s no point pretending otherwise. But I’m not trying to fake anything — in fact, I already own a genuine, custom-built SL8, so this isn’t about trying to pass something off.
I had a second bike — a Winspace SLC 2.0 — that I wasn’t riding much. It had a full 12-speed Ultegra Di2 groupset, so I sold the frame and wheels, kept the groupset, and decided to start a new project. I saw Patrick’s thread on this frame and was on and off the fence for a few weeks. In the end, I thought: why not? Build a budget weight-weenie bike and see how it rides compared to the real thing.
So far it’s cost me around £1,500, and for me, the fun is in the build and seeing what performance you can get at that price using parts I already had.
So yes — I like how the SL8 looks, and this frame copies that. But it’s just a personal project, not about showing off or pretending. Just building something fun and different to ride.
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I don't understand people who think that $30+sticker is not enough compensation?! Why?
Personally, I would just smile and find it interesting. Not only would I have no complaints, I wouldn't even demand compensation. Personally, I think that's cooler than a factory inscription. It looks nice, sounds interesting. The original inscription has no "brand" value, it's like a set of letters that don't make sense.
Personally, I (looking from the outside) consider the situation more like "consumer terrorism". I notice that in some countries people are so used to consumption and "earning money from protection" that it looks terrible from the outside.
You buy a frame for 10-20% of the brand price, but want to ask for compensation for the emptiness as from the brand!?
It's very funny to read how some people don't accept the fact that people can drive copies, can use stickers and brand inscriptions....
Where does this fetish come from?
There is no competition or loss of profit for the brand, because people are not faced with the choice of a brand or a fake and no one has sold them a fake at the price of the brand.
I have the right to use any symbols and words, colors, shapes and materials that I like.
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You do you, and i'm looking forward to your ride report comparing the real SL8 with the X68, but you are putting fake logos on a fake SL8, and you already own a SL8. So you are literally passing a fake SL8 as a SL8 because you're putting a fake logo on a clone, AND you're building the SAME bike :D
But it just made me laugh, what you write and what you're doing are diametrically opposed :D
;D
Had you put ASS-WORKS, or STUNT DOUBLE logo or something like that, then 100%, but you're not :)
Again, not hating, and while what you're doing is illegal, you do you. But it's just funny to read your inner dialogue and justification :D
Anything to keep you amused, Serge_K ;D
I’m not ashamed to say it — I want to pass it off as the real thing. But if anyone asks about the bike, I’ll be honest and tell them it’s a fake.
Anyway, I’m almost there with the build. The chain is on; just need to index the gears, fit the additional saddle parts (arriving this week), fine-tune the calipers to eliminate any rub, and wrap the bar tape.
I’m away this weekend, so no chance for a proper ride until next week now.
Weighed it as-is — with the TiMaster cassette and uncut bar tape, the bike comes in at 6.43 kg. The TiMaster cassette is for the SL8, but I’ll be fitting a Dura-Ace cassette soon, which is 66g heavier. Once the bar tape is trimmed, it should end up just under 6.5 kg.
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Anything to keep you amused, Serge_K ;D
I’m not ashamed to say it — I want to pass it off as the real thing. But if anyone asks about the bike, I’ll be honest and tell them it’s a fake.
Anyway, I’m almost there with the build. The chain is on; just need to index the gears, fit the additional saddle parts (arriving this week), fine-tune the calipers to eliminate any rub, and wrap the bar tape.
I’m away this weekend, so no chance for a proper ride until next week now.
Weighed it as-is — with the TiMaster cassette and uncut bar tape, the bike comes in at 6.43 kg. The TiMaster cassette is for the SL8, but I’ll be fitting a Dura-Ace cassette soon, which is 66g heavier. Once the bar tape is trimmed, it should end up just under 6.5 kg.
Good luck with the front bottle mount :D
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Good luck with the front bottle mount :D
Yes its the wrong way round
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That's a stellar weight. I'm at 7.1, but in white, which likely makes up for your fork weight plus...
I went to swap out my expander, and it has a cheap 30g generic plug rather than the deep sl8 clone, which was good news as it came out. I have your 14g one on the way.
Your wheels are 100g lighter than mine, so there's that. But still, its a very lg difference and I'm on a 49.
I doubt on the road it matters a ton, but still, I'm a weenie at heart and its disturbing.
Seatpost parts are here, I'll race you to that 25g savings...
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Might be a little bit OT and I don't want to sound confrontational, but could you explain to me the allure of putting these decals on your frame? I truly struggle to understand if it is to look cool or to pretend to have the real deal or something else entirely. I personally am more than ok with buying a frame that takes inspiration from others as long as it is generic looking enough (not Dogma or SL8 or Madone for example, but a Factor or an SL7 or other less conspicuous frames might look the same as dozens others) and personalize it with my own decals, but when the frame is one of a kind I would either get the real one or else I would feel like I'm just trying to impress, especially with such high priced originals.
Again, not to judge but I am truly curious to understand the thought process behind it!
On the topic itself, I feel like I dodged a giant bullet after considering both the X65 and X67 and pulling the plug after some dubious responses from Tantan about production, waiting time, measures and such.
Another question I've always asked myself is: why do 99% of those who buy a Chinese/Far East frame prefer not to apply the manufacturer/brand stickers?
Or why does this not happen with Western brands even when they do not directly produce the frame, but buy it from an OEM manufacturer?
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That's a stellar weight. I'm at 7.1, but in white, which likely makes up for your fork weight plus...
I went to swap out my expander, and it has a cheap 30g generic plug rather than the deep sl8 clone, which was good news as it came out. I have your 14g one on the way.
Your wheels are 100g lighter than mine, so there's that. But still, its a very lg difference and I'm on a 49.
I doubt on the road it matters a ton, but still, I'm a weenie at heart and its disturbing.
Seatpost parts are here, I'll race you to that 25g savings...
Thanks
Wheels are superlight for there depth at 1231grams for 60/65 depth
And the tyres at 180grams each with TPU tubes at 19grams.
I have an excel sheet if you want me to email over a copy just DM me.
:D
The extra seat post bits have now arrived in the UK so hopefully will get this done by Friday!
Also ordered a new spare seatpost thought it would e a good idea after modifying the other one!
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Thanks
Wheels are superlight for there depth at 1231grams for 60/65 depth
And the tyres at 180grams each with TPU tubes at 19grams.
I have an excel sheet if you want me to email over a copy just DM me.
:D
The extra seat post bits have now arrived in the UK so hopefully will get this done by Friday!
Also ordered a new spare seatpost thought it would e a good idea after modifying the other one!
Maybe just export it to Google Sheet and share it here!
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What size would you get for 186 cm 88 cm inserm ? 56 or 58 ?
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Not that i like tantan, but a few thoughts / questions on SPCycle:
they only seem to exist online as an aliexpress seller (Shenzhen dishai industrial co., ltd), which is registered in "Room 206" in a building in Shenzen. Not, let's say, a factory in Xiamen (600km away). Then, SPCycle website takes you to another store front clearly tailored to the west, with the same reference to Shenzhen dishai industrial, which is good, as it implies, that unlike LTWOO, the spcycle store on aliexpress is the same as the online store on www.sp-cycle.com. But neither proves it's an actual factory. Arguably, everything points to the fact it's probably not a factory. None of their content looks like an OEM / factory. They only mention factory space in one sentence somewhere. Maybe it's the retail arm of a manufacturer they're hiding?
Either way, i'd argue SPcycle is less likely than tantan to make their own stuff. To me, they're like velobuild?
I purchased a Spcycle R088 frame, I asked them directly if the R088 frame is produced by them, or if they commissioned it from another manufacturer.
They replied that the mold of the R088 is theirs, that it is made in their factory and that they have not authorized dealers to sell their frame.
Then I told them that TanTan advertises and sells a frame (TT-X70) that seems identical to theirs... they replied that TanTan took only one sample from their factory and that they would not provide any more samples in the future.
I replied them that TanTan took a sample to copy the frame exactly and sell it as TT-X70...I was taken aback by their response: "Yes, this is very likely", as if it were the most normal thing in the world.
They confirmed what I have read on this forum: in the East they have a completely different mentality compared to the Western one and copying the frames of other manufacturers is not (evidently) seen as something unseemly or forbidden/sanctioned and that (except for "premium" brands that try to establish themselves with their own name) wanting to differentiate themselves from other manufacturers is not a priority for them.
Well, I honestly have not understood whether Spcycle is really the manufacturer of the R088 and TT-X70 frames, but I would say that it changes little in practice: it would be like buying a Bottecchia (Italian brand) 8Avio Ultimate, a frame produced and sold by Workswell (WCB-R-316).
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I purchased a Spcycle R088 frame, I asked them directly if the R088 frame is produced by them, or if they commissioned it from another manufacturer.
They replied that the mold of the R088 is theirs, that it is made in their factory and that they have not authorized dealers to sell their frame.
Then I told them that TanTan advertises and sells a frame (TT-X70) that seems identical to theirs... they replied that TanTan took only one sample from their factory and that they would not provide any more samples in the future.
I replied them that TanTan took a sample to copy the frame exactly and sell it as TT-X70...I was taken aback by their response: "Yes, this is very likely", as if it were the most normal thing in the world.
They confirmed what I have read on this forum: in the East they have a completely different mentality compared to the Western one and copying the frames of other manufacturers is not (evidently) seen as something unseemly or forbidden/sanctioned and that (except for "premium" brands that try to establish themselves with their own name) wanting to differentiate themselves from other manufacturers is not a priority for them.
Well, I honestly have not understood whether Spcycle is really the manufacturer of the R088 and TT-X70 frames, but I would say that it changes little in practice: it would be like buying a Bottecchia (Italian brand) 8Avio Ultimate, a frame produced and sold by Workswell (WCB-R-316).
There's no reason for them to be transparent with you about the origins of a frameset. Just as tantan isn't transparent about the x68, or the x70. I wouldn't rely upon what they tell you unless you're approaching them to build a couple thousand framesets a year for your bike brand, and even then you better have boots on the ground.
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Thanks
Wheels are superlight for there depth at 1231grams for 60/65 depth
And the tyres at 180grams each with TPU tubes at 19grams.
I have an excel sheet if you want me to email over a copy just DM me.
:D
The extra seat post bits have now arrived in the UK so hopefully will get this done by Friday!
Also ordered a new spare seatpost thought it would e a good idea after modifying the other one!
I'll dm you...but I can account for most of the weight. At least 300g in the wheels and tires (my50/65 are t800 and 1330, corsa control 30's at 305 or so each and 36g tpu), probs 100g in the crank (sram carbon w/ quarq, carbon ti 48 t/a 33 ) wheeltop vs Ultegra, etc. I have the parts to lighten the seatpost, but cutting mine down won't save much as I can only take about 20mm off. Most bolts have gone ti, but rotors are Campy rather than galfer. Plus the white paint is probably 100-150g heavier than a rtp clear.
I have seatpost parts here and will play with that today after Giro stage is done.
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I'll dm you...but I can account for most of the weight. At least 300g in the wheels and tires (my50/65 are t800 and 1330, corsa control 30's at 305 or so each and 36g tpu), probs 100g in the crank (sram carbon w/ quarq, carbon ti 48 t/a 33 ) wheeltop vs Ultegra, etc. I have the parts to lighten the seatpost, but cutting mine down won't save much as I can only take about 20mm off. Most bolts have gone ti, but rotors are Campy rather than galfer. Plus the white paint is probably 100-150g heavier than a rtp clear.
I have seatpost parts here and will play with that today after Giro stage is done.
That's fair enough :D
I've attached the spreadsheet anyway in case it's useful for anyone — hopefully it opens fine.
I’ve also added a few more estimated weights, and once I get the last few bits I'm waiting on (like the XMS chainrings), I’ll update it again.
I could potentially save another ~100g by switching to an 11–34T ZTTO cassette.
I’ve ordered a 50/60 wheelset from XMC which should come in around 1200g — maybe a bit under — though these are intended for the SL8.
I'm also looking into a shallower set of 45/50mm wheels from Zen Carbon, built with carbon/titanium spokes and the new H-Works 20/20 spoke-hole hub that’s due for release soon. That hub is claimed at 227g, which would bring the wheelset to around 1011g.
Alternatively, I can get the same rims built with the H-Works SR270 hub, bringing the total to 1060g ±20g — for $635 USD including taxes and delivery, which is a great price. This setup has a 90kg rider weight limit.
I’ve asked H-Works if they offer the new hub in a 24/24 spoke-hole option, which would increase the rider weight limit. But I’m not sure if the added stiffness and durability would be worth the cost and (possibly negligible) weight difference, especially since the SR270 already weighs about the same.
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That's a dystopian view of the world. For clarity, i disagree.
Thx for the xls. Me likey xls.
ZTTO cassette: we (several of us) run the ZTTO full steel CNC machined ones, most recently they weigh 182g or so, I can recommend them, although we run ltwoo and not shimano. But the DA price is just silly, especially for a consumable. We stopped buying the half steel half alu ones, because the alu cogs end up slipping after 5000km or so, and it's sketchy AF (if you race you'll crash). Likewise, we run cheap chains because they wear out.
Where can you get such wheels at such price? 90kg rider weight limit, i wouldn't want to risk it, but i'm curious.
Then get an expensive Chain, wax it and enjoy slow wear rate of the chain and other components. At the end it will be cheaper.
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That's a dystopian view of the world. For clarity, i disagree.
Thx for the xls. Me likey xls.
ZTTO cassette: we (several of us) run the ZTTO full steel CNC machined ones, most recently they weigh 182g or so, I can recommend them, although we run ltwoo and not shimano. But the DA price is just silly, especially for a consumable. We stopped buying the half steel half alu ones, because the alu cogs end up slipping after 5000km or so, and it's sketchy AF (if you race you'll crash). Likewise, we run cheap chains because they wear out.
Where can you get such wheels at such price? 90kg rider weight limit, i wouldn't want to risk it, but i'm curious.
Glad you like it!
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I’ll take a look at the full steel ZTTO—sounds like a solid recommendation.
The wheels I mentioned are from Zen Carbon: https://zencarbonbike.com/road-wheels/. They're based in Xiamen. The thing is, I can get dealer pricing from Winspace, and back when I was ordering their products, I used to deal with a lady named Zara. She left Winspace and moved to Zen. She added me on Instagram, and we’ve been in contact a few times—I made some inquiries but never ended up purchasing anything.
Zen seems legit—there’s a lot of content on Instagram showing customer bikes and builds.
https://www.instagram.com/zencarbonbike?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==
I'm a bit of a weight weenie, so my thought was to get something around 1000g but not super shallow. I was racking my brain today trying to remember her name and the company, and finally did. I DMed her on Instagram yesterday to ask about T1000/T1100 rims that follow the newer trend of wider internal widths (24–26mm).
She offered me some hubs, but none of the OEMs seem to beat the weight of the H-Works SR270 hubs I mentioned earlier. I brought those up, and it seems they must use them too—she said she’d get me a price.
If you had a H-works SR261 hub 24/24 spoke this would increase the rider weight limit to 110kgs with about a 19g weight penalty
Here’s what she came back with and these rims are available in 35-60mm
Rims
*Inner 24mm，T1000;
Front 45mm -340g；Rear 50mm-360g
Spokes：Carbon,width 3.1mm,weight 2.1g/pcs
Hub:H-works Hub SR270 ,20/20H,276g
Wheelset weight:1060g+/-20g
Price:635USD/Set including shipping and custom tax
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That's a dystopian view of the world. For clarity, i disagree.
I guess I worded that poorly. What I meant to say was that there's no reason for one to expect, given the general practices of the majority of the frame vendors discussed here, that a vendor will provide a consumer with accurate information regarding the origin of a frame.
My own viewpoint is that the vendor's reputation matters, but the actual factory much less so. We trust the major brands to source their product appropriately and to stand behind product that fails in use within a reasonable or warranty period. We don't criticize Specialized because they have an unnamed factory in Asia produce their frames. Factor is slightly more transparent in that they acknowledge the rough actual cost and the region of production, but even they don't identify their factory that I'm aware of.
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Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds ;D Sorry @Sander2177
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/
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Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds ;D Sorry @Sander2177
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/
Perhaps others also email their photos to TanTan for usage and promotion?
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Thanks
Wheels are superlight for there depth at 1231grams for 60/65 depth
And the tyres at 180grams each with TPU tubes at 19grams.
I have an excel sheet if you want me to email over a copy just DM me.
:D
The extra seat post bits have now arrived in the UK so hopefully will get this done by Friday!
Also ordered a new spare seatpost thought it would e a good idea after modifying the other one!
I just swapped the yokes in by drilling out the front one to accept the stock m6 bolt, clamp, cradle and ti bolts were 46g, now with yokes and carbon cradle 23
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Another question I've always asked myself is: why do 99% of those who buy a Chinese/Far East frame prefer not to apply the manufacturer/brand stickers?
Or why does this not happen with Western brands even when they do not directly produce the frame, but buy it from an OEM manufacturer?
I'm not a fan of bike logos at all. I'd hate to have a car with a giant Toyota or Volkswagen logo scrawled across the side! ;D
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That's fair enough :D
I've attached the spreadsheet anyway in case it's useful for anyone — hopefully it opens fine.
I’ve also added a few more estimated weights, and once I get the last few bits I'm waiting on (like the XMS chainrings), I’ll update it again.
I could potentially save another ~100g by switching to an 11–34T ZTTO cassette.
I’ve ordered a 50/60 wheelset from XMC which should come in around 1200g — maybe a bit under — though these are intended for the SL8.
I'm also looking into a shallower set of 45/50mm wheels from Zen Carbon, built with carbon/titanium spokes and the new H-Works 20/20 spoke-hole hub that’s due for release soon. That hub is claimed at 227g, which would bring the wheelset to around 1011g.
Alternatively, I can get the same rims built with the H-Works SR270 hub, bringing the total to 1060g ±20g — for $635 USD including taxes and delivery, which is a great price. This setup has a 90kg rider weight limit.
I’ve asked H-Works if they offer the new hub in a 24/24 spoke-hole option, which would increase the rider weight limit. But I’m not sure if the added stiffness and durability would be worth the cost and (possibly negligible) weight difference, especially since the SR270 already weighs about the same.
Thanks for the xls - very helpful. One question though why did you choose the ryet OSPW over the stock one and taking a weight penalty?
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Thanks for the xls - very helpful. One question though why did you choose the ryet OSPW over the stock one and taking a weight penalty?
I haven’t added up the weights yet, but with the OSPW, direct mount hanger, and pivot bolt, I believe the total weight is about the same as the stock derailleur setup with the Shimano hanger and the supplied frame hanger removed.
I’ve also got a CeramicSpeed OSPW on my SL8, so I’m essentially replicating that setup here. Part of it was just wanting to compare it side by side with the CeramicSpeed, and honestly, I also just like the look of OSPWs—even if the actual performance gains are debatable
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Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds ;D Sorry @Sander2177
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/
I saw it in Vivian's Status on WhatsApp and was wondering why showing an incomplete build there for promotion? Strange they haven't used my exploded fork for promo, its almost an incomplete build ;D
Joking aside, it's three weeks since my last conversation with them. Looking forward to a new fork, but so far no sign of them. @TanTan Would be nice shipping out the replacement fork incl. the expander soon ;)
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Hi everyone,
I'm currently considering the X68 frame and I'm between sizes 52 and 54 based on my height (1.71m, inseam 82.5).
However, I'm leaning towards the 52, since I have relatively long legs and a short torso, and I prefer a more compact fit.
One issue I’ve come across: with a 300 mm seatpost, I might be cutting it close — especially if the minimum insertion depth is 100 mm. Based on my seat height, that wouldn’t leave me with enough usable length.
So my question is:
Can anyone confirm whether the X68 seatpost really requires a 100 mm minimum insertion?
The SL8 seatpost had only 75 mm, and I’d like to be sure this has changed.
If it’s really 100 mm, I’ll probably need to order a 380 mm seatpost with the size 52 frame.
Thanks in advance for any insights!
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My seating height with a RYET saddle is 69,5cm (170cm tall and 79,5cm inseam height, Frame Size 52) and I'm right on the "Minimum Insert" line. So you are right, a 38cm seat post will be the better choice. However, I can't tell if it fits the seat tube, especially with a DI2 Battery.
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I'm yet to be shown that a chain that costs twice as much would last more than twice as long, as I d rather do 2x5000 than 1x10000.
How much mileage are people getting from their chains? I'm on chain 3 on my Tractor.
They don’t. As with many things bike related, more expensive usually just means lighter. Not more durable. I agree that saving weight doesn’t really make any sense with chains. Just like with disc rotors IMO (unless you rarely ever need to brake).
But there are differences IME. I’m only talking about 11 and 12sp here. I haven’t tried YBN. But I have found Sram chains to wear the quickest. KMC are good value for money. Shimano are solid. But Campy chains outlast everything IME. I’m close to 10k on a Chorus 12sp chain and it just does not seem to wear all that much. It also works very well with hot wax. I’ve found that with the surface coating of some other chains, the wax does not seem to stick very well and they get noisy very quickly.
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Hi everyone,
I'm currently considering the X68 frame and I'm between sizes 52 and 54 based on my height (1.71m, inseam 82.5).
However, I'm leaning towards the 52, since I have relatively long legs and a short torso, and I prefer a more compact fit.
One issue I’ve come across: with a 300 mm seatpost, I might be cutting it close — especially if the minimum insertion depth is 100 mm. Based on my seat height, that wouldn’t leave me with enough usable length.
So my question is:
Can anyone confirm whether the X68 seatpost really requires a 100 mm minimum insertion?
The SL8 seatpost had only 75 mm, and I’d like to be sure this has changed.
If it’s really 100 mm, I’ll probably need to order a 380 mm seatpost with the size 52 frame.
Thanks in advance for any insights!
Not sure about whether you can go down to 75mm on the X68 dont even think I would chance it myself.
I have just cut my X68 seat post by 30mm it but decided to maintain a 100mm insert as recommended.
I have ordered an additional seat post anyway.
I am 178cm and my saddle hight on my 54cm is 74cm
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I get 5000-5500km to 0.5pc wear from ybn chains that cost 20 euro, and I've been waxing chains for close to a decade now. I'm yet to be shown that a chain that costs twice as much would last more than twice as long, as I d rather do 2x5000 than 1x10000.
How much mileage are people getting from their chains? I'm on chain 3 on my Tractor.
I gotta admit you got so much out of cheap chain, good to know. I only use dura Ace chain as I want the fastest shit. Tried ybn sla and it lasted 2000km with wax so pretty shit and didn't think a cheaper version can be so good.
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I must update the thread with news. After about 3 months and more than 2000km with my x68 I have decided to buy a fake in yohobikes.
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep.
I can't put one It sticks to Tantan's frame, but I think Yohobike's frame will be exactly the same.
I decided to opt for yohobike as Vivian gives too long deadlines, and yoho had a framework in stock. It can be interesting to compare the two frames.
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I must update the thread with news. After about 3 months and more than 2000km with my x68 I have decided to buy a fake in yohobikes.
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep.
I can't put one It sticks to Tantan's frame, but I think Yohobike's frame will be exactly the same.
I decided to opt for yohobike as Vivian gives too long deadlines, and yoho had a framework in stock. It can be interesting to compare the two frames.
Hey davidhe23
What do you mean:
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep?
You getting a larger frame or something?
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Hey Davidhe23
What do you mean:
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep?
You getting a larger frame or something?
Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.
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I gotta admit you got so much out of cheap chain, good to know. I only use dura Ace chain as I want the fastest shit. Tried ybn sla and it lasted 2000km with wax so pretty shit and didn't think a cheaper version can be so good.
YBN chains have a reputation for being very fast (see Friction Facts) and they do shift very well. I don't have enough miles on mine to judge wear but they do have a reputation of not being as durable as some others.
They make Campy chains, but to Campy's spec so I don't know that that means anything.
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Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.
Before considering sizing down the frame, it might be worth checking a few setup-related things first. One common cause of numb hands is shifter/hood positioning—if they’re angled too far upwards, it can put your wrists in an awkward position and lead to pressure/numbness. Try rotating them slightly down so your wrists stay in a more neutral position when on the hoods.
Bar width and reach/stem length can also be factors. A shorter or more upright setup can help reduce pressure on the hands. You could also look into padded bar tape or even gloves with better cushioning if you’re not already using them.
A smaller frame might help if you’re really stretched out, but I’d tweak the cockpit setup first—it’s usually a quicker and cheaper fix.
Hope that helps!
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I'm not a fan of bike logos at all. I'd hate to have a car with a giant Toyota or Volkswagen logo scrawled across the side! ;D
So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? ;D
Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).
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Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.
Size 54 without any doubt.
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So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? ;D
Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).
Love this subject makes me laugh, and as always, opinions are divided.
Whether it has SL8 decals or not doesn’t really make much difference in my view—there’s no hiding what the frame is an SL8!
Don’t want people to think your riding an SL8 buy a frame that doesn’t look like an SL8.
Or like Serge_K says you can stick Ass-Works etc on it and make a joke of it.
Yes, I have the decals, and yes, I want people to think it’s real. That’s essentially why people buy counterfeits: either they can’t afford the genuine article, or they just can’t justify the ridiculously high price tag.
I’ve been open with my cycling mates about what I’m doing, and unsurprisingly, a few of them are pretty interested. After all, £625 delivered with handlebars is hard to ignore.
And if anyone asks, I’ll be upfront with them too.
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So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? ;D
Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).
Not really. I don't care about the brands or even bother to watch the sport. I purely ride a bike for fitness. ;)
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Before considering sizing down the frame, it might be worth checking a few setup-related things first. One common cause of numb hands is shifter/hood positioning - if they're angled too far upwards, it can put your wrists in an early position and lead to pressure/numbness. Try rotating them slightly down so your wrists stay in a more neutral position when on the hoods.
Bar width and reach/stem length can also be factors. A shorter or more upright setup can help reduce pressure on the hands. You could also look into padded bar tape or even gloves with better cushioning if you're not already using them.
A smaller frame might help if you're really stretched out, but I'd tweak the cockpit setup first - it's usually a quicker and cheaper fix.
Hope that helps!
I tried my best, I have 90mm power, a difference in height between handlebars and saddles of only 6cm, I was still very stretched on the bike.
I take this opportunity to announce that I sell a Tantan X68 size 56 with only 2000 km at a good price. 8)
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I messaged TanTan again last night. They won't send me a frame because they aren't trying market the frame. Probably for obvious reasons. But more importantly because the X68 has been flying off the shelves. They don't need to market it anyway. 8)
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Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg
I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!
The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.
Anyway going out for a ride this morning!
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Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg
I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!
The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.
Anyway going out for a ride this morning!
Great job, very beautiful and "bad"! ;)
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Love this subject makes me laugh, and as always, opinions are divided.
Whether it has SL8 decals or not doesn’t really make much difference in my view—there’s no hiding what the frame is an SL8!
Don’t want people to think your riding an SL8 buy a frame that doesn’t look like an SL8.
Or like Serge_K says you can stick Ass-Works etc on it and make a joke of it.
Yes, I have the decals, and yes, I want people to think it’s real. That’s essentially why people buy counterfeits: either they can’t afford the genuine article, or they just can’t justify the ridiculously high price tag.
I’ve been open with my cycling mates about what I’m doing, and unsurprisingly, a few of them are pretty interested. After all, £625 delivered with handlebars is hard to ignore.
And if anyone asks, I’ll be upfront with them too.
Obviously I wasn't referring to you or anyone who buys a 1:1 copy of a famous frame...my question concerns all frames "made in China", even those with an original design. ;)
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Not really. I don't care about the brands or even bother to watch the sport. I purely ride a bike for fitness. ;)
I don't care about the brand either (in the sense that I don't follow trends), and even if I follow cycling and sports on TV, I choose a frame because I like the design and geometry, regardless of the brand.....and I'm so used to seeing the brand on the down tube that, if I bought an oriental frame (which I did), it would be natural for me to think of applying the manufacturer's stickers....instead I see that for almost everyone it's not like that, and they prefer to leave the frame "naked".
This thing is curious to me, and I was interested in understanding why....that's all, I would never allow myself to criticize or judge the choices of others. ;)
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Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg
I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!
The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.
Anyway going out for a ride this morning!
Anxiously awaiting your comparison report!
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Anxiously awaiting your comparison report!
Initial Ride Impressions – TanTan X68 vs SL8
Only about 50 km on it so far, but I’m surprisingly impressed — especially for the price.
In terms of ride quality, I’m genuinely surprised how close this feels to my SL8.
Make no mistake, so far it is not an SL8 — definitely in terms of quality there’s a difference.
• Stiffness: Comparable. Out-of-the-saddle efforts feel direct, no noticeable flex. I haven’t pushed beyond ~800W yet, but the front end feels solid — bars feel just as stiff as my Roval cockpit.
• Responsiveness: Snappy and lively, the bike reacts well to power input.
• Refinement: The SL8 still has the edge — it’s smoother and more polished over rough roads. But honestly, the difference is smaller than expected — not night and day.
There were a few minor build niggles: rear brake mount and BB shell needed some sanding/facing, and I had to file down a spacer near the seat tube to prevent rubbing. These are minor issues at this price point (£625 for the frame).
This experience reminds me of switching from Zipp 303 NSW wheels to the first-gen Winspace Hyper 50s — better performance at half the price. Since then, I haven’t looked back at high-end Western wheel brands. This frame is making me question buying expensive branded frames again — unless the SL9 or a new Venge changes things.
⸻
Recommendations:
• Would I recommend this frame? Yes — but with caveats.
• It’s an OEM frame, not a retail brand, so after-sales support and customer service vary widely. Some OEMs are great, others less so.
• TanTan have a mixed bag of reviews, so buyers need to make their own informed decision about risk tolerance and snappy snappy forks!
• If problems arise, you’ll likely need to pay your own return shipping and may face some delays or communication hurdles.
• For the price-to-performance ratio, I think it’s worth the risk if you’re comfortable with those conditions.
⸻
Early impressions are very promising. I’ll post more updates after some longer rides.
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I'd be curious to see how you would feel if you controlled for the wheelset by using the same wheels for a back to back.
So far you've confirmed what was for me just a guess as I don't have an actual sl8. I was impressed with the bike as a standalone thing, but didn't expect that it would be "indistinguishable." As I said early on, if I could get 70% or so of an actual sl8 for 1/5 the price I'd feel good about that. I think it might actually be better than that...
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I'd be curious to see how you would feel if you controlled for the wheelset by using the same wheels for a back to back.
So far you've confirmed what was for me just a guess as I don't have an actual sl8. I was impressed with the bike as a standalone thing, but didn't expect that it would be "indistinguishable." As I said early on, if I could get 70% or so of an actual sl8 for 1/5 the price I'd feel good about that. I think it might actually be better than that...
I rode the SL8 yesterday using the same wheels — it’s the only set I have at the moment.
As I mentioned, the SL8 feels more refined and smoother, which is clearly down to the carbon layup. It definitely has an edge, though whether that edge is worth the extra £4,000+ is debatable.
That said, it was only a single 50 km ride, so I’ll need a few more rides over the next few weeks to really see how it holds up.
This is just my personal opinion — I’m just one guy, not an expert if people want to listen and it helps great.
The X68, it’s a good frame however people have had quality problems and that fork issue was not good but I will obviously keep a close eye on
If TanTan (or whoever actually makes it) put a bit more time and care into the quality and finish, I’d happily pay an extra $150–$200 myself.
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I'm not surprised that it's a decent ride, nor am I surprised if there are issues with quality control with the BB/brake calliper facing etc.). Would I ever expect a counterfeit/replica frame to be better than an original? Not at all, and that's my problem. IE: I know I'd have a LOT of fun building up a cheap Chinese frame, but I also know it's not going to be as good as my genuine frame, so whilst I'm super tempted to buy one for the fun of it, sadly I already know that it's just not going to be as good (and definitely not better).
That said I am pretty keen on buying a Chinese frame from a Chinese brand that is innovating and doing some legit R&D. Seka, X-LAB. Sure, they're not as cheap, but there's big time potential for a Chinese manufacturer to make a bike that's better than my S-Works SL8, and I'm not only all for it. I'm downright excited about it!
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I rode the SL8 yesterday using the same wheels — it’s the only set I have at the moment.
As I mentioned, the SL8 feels more refined and smoother, which is clearly down to the carbon layup. It definitely has an edge, though whether that edge is worth the extra £4,000+ is debatable.
That said, it was only a single 50 km ride, so I’ll need a few more rides over the next few weeks to really see how it holds up.
This is just my personal opinion — I’m just one guy, not an expert if people want to listen and it helps great.
The X68, it’s a good frame however people have had quality problems and that fork issue was not good but I will obviously keep a close eye on
If TanTan (or whoever actually makes it) put a bit more time and care into the quality and finish, I’d happily pay an extra $150–$200 myself.
It's true that they have some very silly quality flaws. The transition spacer is a problem because you don't discover it until you have the handlebars tightened to the correct torque. Vivian's response was, buy another one; any original one will fit.
I feel the frame is in good shape; it's very rigid in the front, and the rear absorbs bumps well. I expect the original frame to be several times superior.
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That's interesting! Definitely not interested in light chains that cost more and last less.
When do you swap chains? Because the internet says to swap 11/12s chains at 0.5%, not 0.75%. So, your Chorus chain, at 10k km, you're still below 0.5%?
For reference, YBN chains are well regarded and test well (made in Taiwan, not China, it seems that for chains, it still matters). I've been happy w KMC too. I can't say i tracked it closely, but my sentiment is also that SRAM isn't great (their flat top chains test among the worst, too, another SRAM counterproductive piece of engineering).
I haven’t tried Sram‘s flattop chains. Only 11sp. The cheapest ones which are the Apex and Rival level chains. They’re cheap and I used them for gravel. So I didn’t really mind the wearing rate.
I’d have to check the exact wear ratio of my Chorus chain. I just have one of these very basic 0.75/1.0 gauges. I usually swap them when I see them visually approaching the 0.75 mark. So I guess somewhere before 0.75 is when I usually replace them. And it’s nowhere near that so far.
At the moment, I’d probably recommend buying KMC X12 chains. Simply because you can buy them factory waxed for somewhat reasonable money. And I’m lazy. I just love the fact that I don’t have to do the initial grease stripping. Just put it on the bike. Ride till it’s noisy. Re-wax. Done.
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I finally built up the frame I got from Nicole on Aliexpress, it's not bad, however, the carbon internals can be better (battery di2 holder sucks had to apply some masking tape, and the one-piece bar stem cap does not sit flush, the seat stays can be better as well, but everything aligns, bb was well centered on both sides and the bike rides super stiff, it's actually more stiff than the real one granted the fake one has more carbon and weighs more
So far, ridden about 30 miles, with mix of climbs and flats, this rides super well and stiff and is very engaging and grounded, I feel super safe putting out power on this, but time will tell, I have noticed a few glaring suspicious fractures/cracks , 1 small piece of carbon that chipped out in the seat post area and a tiny mark on the fork steerer tube it self
Also, the S/N that it came with on the peel me sticker, comes back as a legit sl8 but its the sl8 expert, non sworks model if that matters , the production sticker and the peel me have different s/n , there is no bb s/n sticker underneath so thats another flaw, and the S logo at the front speed sniffer is smaller than on real, but u can get a decal
For context, I have all real headset parts on and real wheel axels as well as real spacers
Thoughts ?
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I have noticed a few glaring suspicious fractures/cracks , 1 small piece of carbon that chipped out in the seat post area and a tiny mark on the fork steerer tube it self
Did you take any pictures? "Cracks" sounds really bad.
Btw you not fooling anyone with elite wheels and 105 on an S-Works ;)
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I saw it in Vivian's Status on WhatsApp and was wondering why showing an incomplete build there for promotion? Strange they haven't used my exploded fork for promo, its almost an incomplete build ;D
Joking aside, it's three weeks since my last conversation with them. Looking forward to a new fork, but so far no sign of them. @TanTan Would be nice shipping out the replacement fork incl. the expander soon ;)
Chinese do chinese things....
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They don’t. As with many things bike related, more expensive usually just means lighter. Not more durable. I agree that saving weight doesn’t really make any sense with chains. Just like with disc rotors IMO (unless you rarely ever need to brake).
But there are differences IME. I’m only talking about 11 and 12sp here. I haven’t tried YBN. But I have found Sram chains to wear the quickest. KMC are good value for money. Shimano are solid. But Campy chains outlast everything IME. I’m close to 10k on a Chorus 12sp chain and it just does not seem to wear all that much. It also works very well with hot wax. I’ve found that with the surface coating of some other chains, the wax does not seem to stick very well and they get noisy very quickly.
+1
Running Campa on my 11s and it is definetly the best one.
On my 13s EKAR I'm running SRAM Force flattop and it lasted 7k km Gravel incl. bike packing in the desert
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I tried my best, I have 90mm power, a difference in height between handlebars and saddles of only 6cm, I was still very stretched on the bike.
I take this opportunity to announce that I sell a Tantan X68 size 56 with only 2000 km at a good price. 8)
56 is just too big for your size, that's for sure.
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Did you take any pictures? "Cracks" sounds really bad.
Btw you not fooling anyone with elite wheels and 105 on an S-Works ;)
lol, people can put any group set and wheels on their frames but , the cracks aren't actually cracks, it's more of defects and small/tiny, no creaking
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What size would you get for 186 cm 88 cm inserm ? 56 or 58 ?
56
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56
How is 56 working for you? Actually I think you could also easily fit on 58
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How is 56 working for you? Actually I think you could also easily fit on 58
I'm 185cm / 89cm and running a SL6 in 56 with a 100mm stem and a handlebar with 104mm reach, spot on.
Also owning a BMW in 57, I like the 56 more.
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How is 56 working for you? Actually I think you could also easily fit on 58
I'm 189cm tall and 92.5cm inseam and I choose 58. 110 stem/380 width and it's perfect for me so far.
Today I weighted a bike and it's 7.5kg with pedals and all mounts.
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lol, people can put any group set and wheels on their frames but , the cracks aren't actually cracks, it's more of defects and small/tiny, no creaking
Sure you can do whatever you want it’s just quite obvious something’s off when you mix high end with budget options. Could’ve gone with the specialized decals …
Like putting wheels with plastic covers on a BMW M CS.
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Sure you can do whatever you want it’s just quite obvious something’s off when you mix high end with budget options. Could’ve gone with the specialized decals …
Like putting wheels with plastic covers on a BMW M CS.
u right
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X68 Update
Few rides in now and no issues to report — it’s going really well so far. Put in a few efforts and landed some PRs on old local segments, so it’s definitely holding its own.
Issue with cranks coming loose but thats on me not tightening to 35-40Nm as 8Nm does not cut it lol!
No creaks, no weird flex, just solid and confidence-inspiring. Still early days but impressed so far. Will update if anything changes, but at this stage, so far no regrets at the moment
Sent completion photos to Tan Tan
Be interesting to see if they post them!
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X68 Update
Few rides in now and no issues to report — it’s going really well so far. Put in a few efforts and landed some PRs on old local segments, so it’s definitely holding its own.
Issue with cranks coming loose but thats on me not tightening to 35-40Nm as 8Nm does not cut it lol!
No creaks, no weird flex, just solid and confidence-inspiring. Still early days but impressed so far. Will update if anything changes, but at this stage, so far no regrets at the moment
Sent completion photos to Tan Tan
Be interesting to see if they post them!
your look much better than mine, where can i get the same one
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your look much better than mine, where can i get the same one
Excuse me I don’t understand, where can you get the same what?
Frame? Crank?
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I have the frame now for at least 1500 km ridden and can also not complain. No creak, no issue, just good ride quality. In a direct comparison with may SL7 the front end feels slightly less stiff but is more comfortable which is positive in the end. Other than that really not a lot to report. It just works and is "fast" everywhere.
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Seatpost Clamp Mods & Final Build Weight – X68 Update
As I mentioned in earlier posts, I’ve been working on modding the seatpost to refine the setup and shave off some extra weight. Here’s the latest:
For the front clamp, I sourced an M5 barrel nut sized 8.5mm x 13.5mm. It’s a bit smaller in diameter than the original (which was around 10mm, but in M6 size). Couldn’t find a 10mm M5 version anywhere, but this one works fine despite the slightly looser fit. The original nut was also longer and had an angled end for aesthetics — not critical functionally, but worth noting.
Everything was cleaned and reassembled using:
• Grease on all threads and contact points.
• Carbon paste on the saddle rail clamping area.
The front yoke came threaded, but since the clamp force is between the bolt head and barrel nut, those threads aren’t ideal. You’d normally want to either drill the yoke to clear the threads or use a bolt with an unthreaded section where it passes through. That said, I made it work for now without issue.
Saddle setup:
• Saddle leveled precisely.
• Rear bolt torqued to 5–5.5 Nm with a touch of blue Loctite for added security.
• Final seatpost weight: 128.4g after all mods.
• 40g shaved off total with the seatpost + saddle changes.
Took the X68 out again for a ride this evening — everything held up perfectly. Clamp still solid post-ride. This style of yoke clamp (similar to Darimo’s design clamp which is torqued to 4nm)and like the rest of the bolts on my bike (stem, top cap, seatpost clamp), I always double-check torque and occasionally use blue Loctite where needed.
Crank bolts also holding firm, no movement or loosening.
With these mods, the bike now sits at 6.45 kg. No further changes planned — happy with the setup as it is.
I’ll be trying the 50/60 XMC wheels once they land. They were originally for the SL8 but I’ll run them on the X68 first. With them lighter cassette , the weight should drop to around 6.35 kg. Will report back after testing.
All well had a ride out again all good no issues so far to report!
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Picture of a counterfeit, heard it's stiff corners well and was an easy build. Not much difference with these tantans.
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Picture of a counterfeit, heard it's stiff corners well and was an easy build. Not much difference with these tantans.
Yohobike? It looks exactly like Seraph, I think they both use the same mold to put together their bikes.
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Yohobike? It looks exactly like Seraph, I think they both use the same mold to put together their bikes.
Yoho, the famous jailed Peter, Nicole's bike store, .. they all use the same mold if you ask me.
There is a bigger player behind the frame. Tantan is just a reseller that chooses not to put fake branding on the frame.
But where these are being made is a mystery.
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Yoho, the famous jailed Peter, Nicole's bike store, .. they all use the same mold if you ask me.
There is a bigger player behind the frame. Tantan is just a reseller that chooses not to put fake branding on the frame.
But where these are being made is a mystery.
I agree and everyone wants to know who is making it! ;D — Tan Tan can openly sell the frames, but there are subtle differences that seem designed to skirt around IP infringement.
One example: seat posts don’t interchange between the X68 and the SL8. The X68 is about 1mm wider, so while it looks nearly identical the difference are so subtle you just don't notice them and from what i can see this is the only differences this is Just enough of a difference to avoid a direct copy, I think.
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ok. my frame shipped. paid on may 6th shipped on may 5th. ordered raw frame.
do you know how long it takes to arrive in europe?
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ok. my frame shipped. paid on may 6th shipped on may 5th. ordered raw frame.
do you know how long it takes to arrive in europe?
I'm in UK and was quoted 10-18days.
You should have been given a shipping duration
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I agree and everyone wants to know who is making it! ;D — Tan Tan can openly sell the frames, but there are subtle differences that seem designed to skirt around IP infringement.
One example: seat posts don’t interchange between the X68 and the SL8. The X68 is about 1mm wider, so while it looks nearly identical the difference are so subtle you just don't notice them and from what i can see this is the only differences this is Just enough of a difference to avoid a direct copy, I think.
I agree and I would be curious to know the name of the producer because the frame is extremely well done, so similar to the original and super light; in this range of price, it is the lighest frame in the chinese carbon market, as far as I know.
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I agree and I would be curious to know the name of the producer because the frame is extremely well done, so similar to the original and super light; in this range of price, it is the lighest frame in the chinese carbon market, as far as I know.
It's not the lightest frame in the chinese carbon market. but in this price range it's prolly top 5.
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It's not the lightest frame in the chinese carbon market. but in this price range it's prolly top 5.
Not sure if I would ride anything like these frame lighter than this one 788g is pretty light.
What’s the top 5 then I’m intrested
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Not sure if I would ride anything like these frame lighter than this one 788g is pretty light.
What’s the top 5 then I’m intrested
Elilee Blize XXE
Seka Spear RDC
TFSA JH-33 or 35 not too sure but 680g like the aboves.
And surely I am missing some other options.
I miswrote my first message but in this price range it's top with the TFSA so far.
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Elilee Blize XXE
Seka Spear RDC
TFSA JH-33 or 35 not too sure but 680g like the aboves.
And surely I am missing some other options.
I miswrote my first message but in this price range it's top with the TFSA so far.
Hmm… I was actually referring more to OEM frames, open-mold options, and direct copies.
Eililee and Seka are premium Chinese brands — I wouldn’t group them with something like the TanTan X68. TFSA maybe, since you can find those on AliExpress.
That said, from what I’ve seen, Seka frames often don’t hit their claimed weights, which is something to keep in mind.
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Hmm… I was actually referring more to OEM frames, open-mold options, and direct copies.
Eililee and Seka are premium Chinese brands — I wouldn’t group them with something like the TanTan X68. TFSA maybe, since you can find those on AliExpress.
That said, from what I’ve seen, Seka frames often don’t hit their claimed weights, which is something to keep in mind.
Above message said Chinese Carbon market which is what I replied to!
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Above message said Chinese Carbon market which is what I replied to!
Hmmmm still cannot rank like that in my opinion
You have like
Winspace
Incolour
Are you ranking brands or OEM manufactures?
Technically 99% of bike are Chinese
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Hmmmm still cannot rank like that in my opinion
You have like
Winspace
Incolour
Are you ranking brands or OEM manufactures?
Technically 99% of bike are Chinese
I never mentioned OEM, the previous poster said Chinese market which should also include Chinese brand even if they market more internationally.
Anyway back to the topic I want more feedback on the ride quality compared to your SL8 and previous SL7.
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I never mentioned OEM, the previous poster said Chinese market which should also include Chinese brand even if they market more internationally.
Anyway back to the topic I want more feedback on the ride quality compared to your SL8 and previous SL7.
Fair enough. As for the SL7—well, the SL8 is noticeably more comfortable to ride, so in that respect, you could say the X68 has more in common with the SL7.
Like I said, it’s a good frame so far. I’m actually surprised—surprised enough that it made me raise an eyebrow!
But let’s be clear: it’s not an SL8. The SL8 offers a smoother, more refined ride, as I’ve mentioned. I’m no expert, but even doing something as basic as the tap test on the down tube and top tube, they sound different. Not very scientific, I know, but it says something.
In terms of stiffness, the X68 is right up there—even the bars feel solid. This bike is definitely planted, not a noodle.
Five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a copy or fake frame, but they’ve come a long way—very close now.
It’s a bit like the 1:1 Rolex clones—experts now need loupes and specialised equipment just to spot the fakes. That’s how close these frames are getting. Manufacturers will have to step up to stay ahead.
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Fair enough. As for the SL7—well, the SL8 is noticeably more comfortable to ride, so in that respect, you could say the X68 has more in common with the SL7.
Like I said, it’s a good frame so far. I’m actually surprised—surprised enough that it made me raise an eyebrow!
But let’s be clear: it’s not an SL8. The SL8 offers a smoother, more refined ride, as I’ve mentioned. I’m no expert, but even doing something as basic as the tap test on the down tube and top tube, they sound different. Not very scientific, I know, but it says something.
In terms of stiffness, the X68 is right up there—even the bars feel solid. This bike is definitely planted, not a noodle.
Five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a copy or fake frame, but they’ve come a long way—very close now.
It’s a bit like the 1:1 Rolex clones—experts now need loupes and specialised equipment just to spot the fakes. That’s how close these frames are getting. Manufacturers will have to step up to stay ahead.
I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.
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I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.
That a question for Mr Lino ;D
Frames are the same weight and i think he has had a go on an X68 if I'm not mistaken!
So have you ordered a new frame Davidhe23
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I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.
That a question for Mr Lino ;D
My Pro frame in a size 56 satin blue came in at 827g 8)
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My Pro frame in a size 56 satin blue came in at 827g 8)
You managed to have a spin on the X68 at all??
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hello 185cm, 91 inseam, which size will you recommend? 56 or 58?
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hello 185cm, 91 inseam, which size will you recommend? 56 or 58?
Given your height (185 cm) and inseam (91 cm), both sizes could work, but they offer different riding positions:
• Size 56: Offers a more aggressive, race-oriented position with a lower front end. Suitable if you prefer a stretched-out posture and are comfortable with a longer stem or more seatpost extension.
• Size 58: Provides a more upright position with a taller head tube. Better if you prioritize comfort over aerodynamics or have a longer torso.
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hello 185cm, 91 inseam, which size will you recommend? 56 or 58?
I am 181cm tall and have a 93cm inside leg, I am disproportionate :( I bought 58
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That a question for Mr Lino;D
Frames are the same weight and I think he has had a go on an X68 if I'm not mistaken!
So have you ordered a new frame Davidhe23?
Yes, I've already ordered it, I don't really like the color or the letters Sworks, but it was the only one they had in stock to ship.
I'll test the X68 SEATPOST under Yohobike, we'll see if it fits perfectly.
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You managed to have a spin on the X68 at all??
Tomorrow :)
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Tomorrow :)
I thought they wouldn’t or didn’t sell you one? How long turn around on the order?
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"Road the TT-X68 today for the first time. Added a ride and ended up with a Century Day. I posted a picture of the bike on my first Strava ride today. It definitely is better than my Tarmac SL7 in every way. I'll be at the Illinois State Criterium Championship June 7th if you want to hook up and check it out. 56 cm - 14.6 lbs. without pedals and cages."
Some real world feedback from a friend of mine. I'll be seeing this in person in a few weeks.
^^^^^^^
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I suspect this post is going to generate a lot of hate, but this whole thread from top to bottom makes TanTan out to be real sketch.
First, this frame is inspired by the SL8 but different in some key parts, then it turns out that those parts specs are different from what was stated, and this frame is just a straight-up attempt at a SL8 copy. Here, TanTan is being shady with the details. Then, when safety-critical, functional plastic parts have issues, their customer service recommends that people here go out and buy the parts from Specialized because "they will fit perfectly." So it was supposed to be a 1:1 copy after all? Sander's photos also confirmed this. ::)
Along the way, we have a fork that is broken in a way that looks bad for TanTan, and there has been continued evasion regarding the details about this frame, they spelled their own brand name wrong when painting a frame, lots of sketch customer service, the weird story about SPCycles and Tantan copying their frame...why are people still putting in orders with this company?
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What do you expect ? The only reason why people don't call this a counterfeit is because it doesn't have an sworks sticker on the downtube.
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It doesn't require a brand sticker to be considered counterfeit under IP laws in most countries. It's already a counterfeit because, as a 1:1 copy, it likely violates both copyrights for design and trade dress. There is a reason the nose of the SL8 was named the "speed sniffer": as a distinct feature, it gains protection under IP laws. I understand that people object to IP laws, are unaware of or uninterested in them, or object to the prices Specialized charges, as well as the notion that you are unlikely to face any legal consequences in most places until you try to sell your frame, regardless of whether you disclose.
^is not legal advice. After all, laws only protect those who bother to get them enforced. However, this was also a potential fight I didn't want to pick.
I am not surprised that, as a monocoque structure, having the "skin" be the same shape leads to similar characteristics. I am shocked that people tolerate being lied to and gaslit by a vendor. The appeal of a fake SL8 overcomes all of that?
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Yes, it is a counterfeit frame — I’ve never claimed otherwise. However, some of us have looked for a patent on this particular frame design, which should be publicly available if it exists, and so far we haven’t found one. That might be why they’re able to sell this frame as they do.
I have a spare seat tube arriving today, and I’ll try it in my SL8. From memory, it didn’t fit previously because it was slightly too large, so there may be subtle differences in the frame’s shape — or maybe not.
They don’t sell the frame with Specialized branding because that would clearly infringe on trademarks and IP rights. Hence why the counterfeits are not so open obviously.
Yes, there have been customer service issues with the forks quality and fitment. But for what is essentially a £500 frame, many feel it’s worth the risk.
The fit issues aren’t ideal, but they seem to be relatively rare. Plenty of people on this forum are riding these frames without issue.
Ultimately, it’s a cheap frame, and people need to manage their expectations accordingly — both with the product itself and with the customer service experience.
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^^^^^^^
Now this I cannot wait for!
Will we get a YT video for this one Patrick
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It doesn't require a brand sticker to be considered counterfeit under IP laws in most countries. It's already a counterfeit because, as a 1:1 copy, it likely violates both copyrights for design and trade dress. There is a reason the nose of the SL8 was named the "speed sniffer": as a distinct feature, it gains protection under IP laws. I understand that people object to IP laws, are unaware of or uninterested in them, or object to the prices Specialized charges, as well as the notion that you are unlikely to face any legal consequences in most places until you try to sell your frame, regardless of whether you disclose.
^is not legal advice. After all, laws only protect those who bother to get them enforced. However, this was also a potential fight I didn't want to pick.
I am not surprised that, as a monocoque structure, having the "skin" be the same shape leads to similar characteristics. I am shocked that people tolerate being lied to and gaslit by a vendor. The appeal of a fake SL8 overcomes all of that?
Just as a point of info, I spent way too much time down the rabbit hole of the USPTO website regarding the sl8 out of curiosity. The sl8 shape isn't patented, although the sl7's is. I suspect Specialized thought that the sl8 was too similar and would be considered prior art or ? In any event, "speed sniffer" is trademarked, as the logos.
I don't find Tantan's behavior regarding this frame much different that the majority of similar vendors. There are exceptions, obviously, xiamen carbon speed comes to mind, but most are not transparent. But go ask Specialized which factory makes the actual sl8, all you'll get is "Taiwan". So there's that.
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Given your height (185 cm) and inseam (91 cm), both sizes could work, but they offer different riding positions:
• Size 56: Offers a more aggressive, race-oriented position with a lower front end. Suitable if you prefer a stretched-out posture and are comfortable with a longer stem or more seatpost extension.
• Size 58: Provides a more upright position with a taller head tube. Better if you prioritize comfort over aerodynamics or have a longer torso.
thanks Sander for your feedback, I managed to find a specialized retailer next to my place today so I went to check the SL8 and discuss with the vendor, he suggested me a 58 according to my height and inseam, he also pointed out it will give me more comfort.
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Yes, it is a counterfeit frame — I’ve never claimed otherwise. However, some of us have looked for a patent on this particular frame design, which should be publicly available if it exists, and so far we haven’t found one. That might be why they’re able to sell this frame as they do.
I have a spare seat tube arriving today, and I’ll try it in my SL8. From memory, it didn’t fit previously because it was slightly too large, so there may be subtle differences in the frame’s shape — or maybe not.
They don’t sell the frame with Specialized branding because that would clearly infringe on trademarks and IP rights. Hence why the counterfeits are not so open obviously.
Yes, there have been customer service issues with the forks quality and fitment. But for what is essentially a £500 frame, many feel it’s worth the risk.
The fit issues aren’t ideal, but they seem to be relatively rare. Plenty of people on this forum are riding these frames without issue.
Ultimately, it’s a cheap frame, and people need to manage their expectations accordingly — both with the product itself and with the customer service experience.
As long as they sell it under the TanTan or Seraph name and not under the real one as a "replica" (like Taiwan Eisen and the other fake sellers) I see no problem. If they managed to actually get the carbon layup right so that weight, stiffness, comfort and ride feeling is similar enough then hats off. It's not like they are trying to actually fool anyone into thinking that they buy an actual SL8.
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I don't mind clone framesets, especially if they offer something slightly different from the frame they're based on. For example the SPCycle R088 has UDH, mechanical cable routing and uses standardized 52mm headset bearing. The ICAN FL1 (Aethos clone) has a T47 BB and internal cable routing. Both frames are fairly affordable and lightweight for price point (sub 800g). Also the X68 frameset doesn't do anything different to set it apart from the inspiration frame which makes it kind of boring. Better off buying the X70 frameset (R088 copy, rip-off, or low key collaboration, who TF knows)!
I think the biggest issue I gather from this thread is that Tan Tan isn't a great company to work with. They apparently will ignore you, hold your payment hostage, sell you a sh*t exploding fork, ship your frame at their own discretion and will steal photos without your permission. I'm surprised people are still supporting this company, just to own a fake Gucci SL8 frameset!
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I bought that frame with the thought that they enhanced several parts as for example the bearings and the distance of the frontal brake caliper screws, they didn't, am I mad? A little bit.
Do I regret buying the frame? Hell no, it rides really well for me, enough stiffness while having enough comfort.
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As long as they sell it under the TanTan or Seraph name and not under the real one as a "replica" (like Taiwan Eisen and the other fake sellers) I see no problem. If they managed to actually get the carbon layup right so that weight, stiffness, comfort and ride feeling is similar enough then hats off. It's not like they are trying to actually fool anyone into thinking that they buy an actual SL8.
Just as a point of info, I spent way too much time down the rabbit hole of the USPTO website regarding the sl8 out of curiosity. The sl8 shape isn't patented, although the sl7's is. I suspect Specialized thought that the sl8 was too similar and would be considered prior art or ? In any event, "speed sniffer" is trademarked, as the logos.
I don't find Tantan's behavior regarding this frame much different that the majority of similar vendors. There are exceptions, obviously, xiamen carbon speed comes to mind, but most are not transparent. But go ask Specialized which factory makes the actual sl8, all you'll get is "Taiwan". So there's that.
Both the notion that branding is required to make a counterfeit and the notion that a patent is needed to protect the shape are objectively incorrect. First, the USPTO doesn’t publish provisional patents, and it's likely that if there was a design patent, it wouldn't have been granted yet since the SL8 is new. However, a design patent is sort of hard since you need to separate out functional and nonfunctional elements because of the hairbrained way US patents are structured.
Second, and this is a more important point, a total design copy is likely to copy elements of a design considered ornamental or something that functions as a brand identifier. A trademarked feature is a precise example of the second. These would be protected via copyright and trade dress in most places where forum members live. These are also basically non-existent as functional IP in China, so enforcement action is likely limited to seizure and destruction of their parts by customs enforcement on entry, and I would guess that the only exposure TanTan has.
As individuals, enforcement seems rare unless you are selling a lot of parts or are a marketplace where fakes are commonly being sold or you do something that causes the original brand harm to their image.
I generally love that people are on bikes, so my initial intention was not to go on a rant about IP, but rather express shock that, as consumers, there isn't more outrage at TanTan’s behavior.
Edit: also, the title of this thread is another example of the mockery, given that the frame turned out to be another SL8 Fake.
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I don't want to be argumentative, but trade dress isn't that simple. First the design has to be so unique that it has what is known in the law as "acquired distinctiveness" ie immediate association with the brand. The shape of an sl8 is so similar to other modern bikes with aero features that, speed sniffer aside, I highly doubt it could be demonstrated to have acquired distinctiveness. Second, as to the one aspect that arguably does, the speed sniffer, it has a functional purpose. Trade dress protection does not extend to any aspect of the product that has functionality - anything that is essential to the use or purpose of the product or that affects its quality. You'd have to file for either a design patent or a full patent to protect that.
While I understand that folks are offended by copies, they don't automatically infringe IP.
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I don't want to be argumentative, but trade dress isn't that simple. First the design has to be so unique that it has what is known in the law as "acquired distinctiveness" ie immediate association with the brand. The shape of an sl8 is so similar to other modern bikes with aero features that, speed sniffer aside, I highly doubt it could be demonstrated to have acquired distinctiveness. Second, as to the one aspect that arguably does, the speed sniffer, it has a functional purpose. Trade dress protection does not extend to any aspect of the product that has functionality - anything that is essential to the use or purpose of the product or that affects its quality. You'd have to file for either a design patent or a full patent to protect that.
While I understand that folks are offended by copies, they don't automatically infringe IP.
Until the matter goes to a court, its not like these issues can be settled, you could easily argue that the speed sniffer does not serve an essential purpose to the function of the bike. A design patent would most likely cover the shape while any functional element would be in a utility patent. Furthermore, if the SL7 patent was prior art as you speculate than this copy is still an IP violation. Not sure what you are trying to really say when claim there is no specific patent that has been awareded on the SL8, But none of this is the point. The point is that the premise of this thread is based on a pile of lies from TanTan. This is what I take issue with, not the existence of counterfeits—afterall, buyers have plenty of places to find those. Again, I wasnt even trying to take a shot at anyone who bought the frame; just at TanTan.
Think of it as a business and commercial issue. Pretty sure you are based in either the US or Europe. Given what you know now—if you were to start a business selling an open mold frame:
- Would you sell the X68? Or would you feel better selling the X70 / R088? Why is that?
- Why might you face legal action if you were trying to sell X68s? Why might that be sidestepped with the X70 / R088?
- What if your commercial partner told you that their product was dimensionally unique and therefore not a copy but then it turned out they tried and copy every curve?
I ironically am in the middle of filing some IP paperwork. Have a great weekend all!
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Guys get a room.
this is a subforum about bike builds, components etc. not law, morale and all that's shit. You wanna discuss this, then go somewhere else. I'm tired of reading your essays.
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Guys get a room.
this is a subforum about bike builds, components etc. not law, morale and all that's shit. You wanna discuss this, then go somewhere else. I'm tired of reading your essays.
The little tab on the left allows you to scroll past. ;D
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Lol, I appreciate the thread topic — it’s always interesting to see discussions like this. The whole “how are they managing to sell this frame so openly” angle is intriguing, but as with most of what we talk about, it’s largely speculation.
If there were genuine trademark or patent issues, I’d imagine the sale would have been shut down by now — but it hasn’t been. That’s probably a topic for a separate thread, and I agree it’s worth exploring.
There are clearly a lot of lurkers following this thread, and I get the messages — especially the comparisons to the SL8 — and I think some people are expecting a straight-up “yes, it’s as good as the SL8.”
But let’s be real: this isn’t an SL8, and it never will be. That said, is it a very good frame? Yes. It’s light, stiff, comfortable, and does what it needs to do.
For all the issues a few people have experienced, when you consider the price, the risk/reward ratio makes this a bit of a bargain — as long as nothing goes wrong, of course. Unfortunately, for a handful of people, it has. But for many others, it’s been a solid buy.
As for the talk about TanTan and how they operate, it’s definitely interesting. But at the end of the day, people really need to manage their expectations when spending $639 USD.
Should you expect great customer service? Honestly, not really but what I have received personally is satisfactory and I have had no issues.
Should you expect good quality? Yes — to a certain degree but nothing to the level of the genuine. I have had to sand down brake mounts and the transition spacer and that is it. Paint finish is not terrible could it be better yes and if I had the opportunity to say spend and other $100 for that I would. But built up the bike looks great and looks no different obviously to the real deal and I have managed to get it to 6.45kgs which is pretty.
However only time will tell how this frame goes and with the many who bought it last year it seems to be going ok for the large majority.
Some OEM frames will be better than others, and that’s just part of the risk we take with these kinds of purchases.
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The ironic usage of the UCI logo is to protect my buddy in case he doesn't want his face plastered on the interwebs. And to test whether or not TanTan will steal my photos ;D
Anyway, I didn't get a chance to actually ride the X68. I did inspect the bike and chat with my buddy after his championship race for a good hour. Call me vein but I am a sucker for premium components on cheap frames.
What he told me was the paint (which is beautiful in person) scratches easily and you have to be extremely mindful not to strip the screws. Particularly the saddle rail clamps. In hand the bike felt similar to my SL8 including the "sound" test around the carbon. Overall he's happy with the purchase. More comfortable than his genuine SL7.
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I thought early on that if what I got was 70% of a real sl8 that'd be ok. I never expected 100%.
I bought the bike b/c I didn't know if at my advanced age I could make a sl8 comfortable. Turns out I can.
I do have a bit of a dilemma now. I really like this bike. If a real sl8 is better, I'd probably like that even more. BUT would I like it $2000 more? I can't imagine that I would. Maybe I'm wrong. But I'm sort of where Patrick says he is-the dollars are out of proportion. OTOH, I do have FOMO.
I like wine. But I don't like a $350 Burgundy enough to buy one over an excellent $35 Pinot. Is the Burgundy better? Oh yeah, without a doubt. But so long as I'm on retirement savings I simply can't justify it. But in that case, I've sampled the Burgundies and know what I'm missing. I haven't sampled an sl8.
As far as Tantan goes, in fairness they communicated promptly. They don't always have their facts straight-ie the headset size, what oem parts fit etc but I don't know that's intentional. They shipped me the wrong saddle, the paint shop was backed up and delayed my delivery, but in the end those were minor things. The white paint I have seems durable if heavy. The parts issues are minor. The fork failure documented here isn't a minor thing, but ask Patrick about his Propel fork. Stuff happens. I do business with them again despite their non transparency on the source of the bike. At least they don't name their store "Taiwan...." when its got nothing to do with Taiwan.
And as far as the shape of the bike goes, nah, I don't think I'd rather have an x70. And would I sell the x68 without guilt? Absolutely, I'd advertise it as a tantan x68, without a second thought.
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Great to hear some positive feedback from someone actually racing the frame — it’s good to know it’s being properly put through its paces. That said, Patrick, even if it’s just had one outing, everyone would still be keen to hear your impressions — but you already know that.
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Anyone installed ltwoo on this frame? The front caliper doesn't fit and the ltwoo adapters don't work. I'm clueless :o
Did you solved the problem? I‘m just started to look for the correct adapter (in case there is one)
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I don't want to be argumentative, but trade dress isn't that simple. First the design has to be so unique that it has what is known in the law as "acquired distinctiveness" ie immediate association with the brand. The shape of an sl8 is so similar to other modern bikes with aero features that, speed sniffer aside, I highly doubt it could be demonstrated to have acquired distinctiveness. Second, as to the one aspect that arguably does, the speed sniffer, it has a functional purpose. Trade dress protection does not extend to any aspect of the product that has functionality - anything that is essential to the use or purpose of the product or that affects its quality. You'd have to file for either a design patent or a full patent to protect that.
While I understand that folks are offended by copies, they don't automatically infringe IP.
I'm following the discussion with interest.
I don't presume to judge other people's choices but, correct me if I'm wrong, are you saying that the shape of the X68 doesn't recall Specialized and that the SL8 is similar to most modern bikes?
If so, I disagree: the X68 is clearly a 1:1 copy of the SL8 and that most modern bikes resemble the Tarmac SL, not the other way around. ;)
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Did you solved the problem? I‘m just started to look for the correct adapter (in case there is one)
There isn't. Ltwoo uses their own adapters and the spacing is non standard. Folks use Shimano, z race etc to make it work. If you're in the usa I have a pair of very low mile Wheeltop calipers I'd let go cheap (I put Campy Ekar on my x68 with Wheeltop).
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I'm following the discussion with interest.
I don't presume to judge other people's choices but, correct me if I'm wrong, are you saying that the shape of the X68 doesn't recall Specialized and that the SL8 is similar to most modern bikes?
If so, I disagree: the X68 is clearly a 1:1 copy of the SL8 and that most modern bikes resemble the Tarmac SL, not the other way around. ;)
I believe that if you cut off the speed sniffer and set the x68/sl8 in a "lineup" of other modern aero bikes they'd all share pretty similar feature-dropped rear stays, narrow seatubes with tucked wheel etc. The round tubes of the sl8 might be unusual but I wouldn't call them unique. As to who was first, that's not the point when discussing "trade dress". The usual example cited of classic trade dress is a Coke bottle, a unique shape of a functional object that consumers immediately associate with the brand (or at least did, maybe less so in the can era). Other than the headtube the sl8 shape isn't so unique that it shouts "Specialized!" (IMHO)
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sorry, I have to get the frame, I would like to mount it with L.Twoo erx, the LTwoo brake calipers are not suitable for this frame? did I understand correctly? Ltwoo does not provide a specific adapter for sl8 and tan tan does not have the adapter to mount any brake caliper?
let me understand
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sorry, I have to get the frame, I would like to mount it with L.Twoo erx, the LTwoo brake calipers are not suitable for this frame? did I understand correctly? Ltwoo does not provide a specific adapter for sl8 and tan tan does not have the adapter to mount any brake caliper?
let me understand
https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=4964.0
The spacing of Lwtoo's calipers is 70mm (everyone else uses 34), supposedly to avoid shimano's patent. Because the sl8/x68 requires a specific adapter to work with the fork, you can't use an Lwtoo caliper as the adapter isn't available. The frame bolt spacing flat mount standard is 70 fork/34 rear. The sl8 spacing is 68 mm on the fork, so you can't even use the Lwtoo directly mounted with their spacer - you'd have to fabricate something. The spacer that Specialized and tantan supplies is designed to mount a 34mm flat mount caliper to the fork with height for a 160 rotor.
Campagnolo users have a similar issue in that Campy's front caliper is a native 160 with a built in 70mm spacer, the workaround is to use a rear caliper with the specialized spacer.
Some ali sellers even substitute zrace calipers to get around this issue. https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256805199194907.html
The beauty of mineral oil systems though is that you can substitute in just about anyone's caliper into the system with the appropriate barb and olive installed. 2 or 4 piston zrace, shimano with lwtoo or wheeltop, or Campy with Shimano or.... I put Campy calipers on my wheeltop build-the wheeltop calipers work great, but I wanted to save some weight and I prefer Campy's engagement point and feel to Shimano's (which is what Wheeltop emulates).
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I believe that if you cut off the speed sniffer and set the x68/sl8 in a "lineup" of other modern aero bikes they'd all share pretty similar feature-dropped rear stays, narrow seatubes with tucked wheel etc. The round tubes of the sl8 might be unusual but I wouldn't call them unique. As to who was first, that's not the point when discussing "trade dress". The usual example cited of classic trade dress is a Coke bottle, a unique shape of a functional object that consumers immediately associate with the brand (or at least did, maybe less so in the can era). Other than the headtube the sl8 shape isn't so unique that it shouts "Specialized!" (IMHO)
I think instead that the first to introduce something new that is then copied by others becomes the "benchmark".
The rear seat stays were introduced by BMC and for years it has been a feature of their frames...just as the Tarmac SL7 was the first all-around aerodynamic frame that many manufacturers have then taken inspiration from.
If I see an X68 obviously I shout "Specialized"....but also R088/X70 (even if they have some differences in the front part) and many other frames strongly recall Specialized.
Obviously there are also other frames that recall other models: Pinarello, Cannondale, Cervélo....brands that have introduced or are also distinguished by certain characteristics.
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https://www.strava.com/activities/14733262692
I raced the frame yesterday for 7h across the alps and clearly it didnt hold me back.
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There isn't. Ltwoo uses their own adapters and the spacing is non standard. Folks use Shimano, z race etc to make it work. If you're in the usa I have a pair of very low mile Wheeltop calipers I'd let go cheap (I put Campy Ekar on my x68 with Wheeltop).
Highly appreciated but I currently already have the Ltwoo groupset mounted and just the adapter is missing. I already wrote ltwoo directly and panda podium. Let’s see if they can solve it with an accurate adapter and I will give you a feedback on this.
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just as the Tarmac SL7 was the first all-around aerodynamic frame that many manufacturers have then taken inspiration from.
I'm going to get a reputation as argumentative, but no. Sl7 was late to the game. 2020. Aeroroad-2014. Supersix evo -2014. Specialized Venge (dropped stay version) 2018. The Supersix at least was an all around bike.
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Highly appreciated but I currently already have the Ltwoo groupset mounted and just the adapter is missing. I already wrote ltwoo directly and panda podium. Let’s see if they can solve it with an accurate adapter and I will give you a feedback on this.
I'm guessing you'll have to switch brake calipers to Shimano style flat mount. Also have you figured out the battery in the X68? There's some details about using an ER9/X battery in the SPcycle R088 thread (which has the same seat post/back end). If the seat post is too long, you'll have to carefully cut it to size and then put the ER9/X battery inside the seat tube with ribbon string or something similar in order to pull it out for maintenance.
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Highly appreciated but I currently already have the Ltwoo groupset mounted and just the adapter is missing. I already wrote ltwoo directly and panda podium. Let’s see if they can solve it with an accurate adapter and I will give you a feedback on this.
there is no adapter for the L-Twoo front caliper that will fit the X68 or an SL8 unless someone custom makes one. The front caliper mounting bracket on both the SL8 and the Aethos is proprietary and permits only standard flat mount calipers and minimum 160mm rotor. the L-Twoo calipers are non standard so they could avoid patent infringement. Your best bet would be to buy a mineral oil based front caliper - an ultegra caliper would match best if you have the v3 eRX group.
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Bikes still going well :D.
Out last night for 55km rolling ride, there is not much more to say to be honest rides really really well, especially on the rough UK roads! :-\ so its an ideal testing ground.
After rides I check my frames over due to the rough British Roads as I have had a cracked seat stay on a Felt bike and the reported fork failure on this thread.
Anyone who wants some ride stats
- Average 33.1 km/h
Max 61.4 km/h
Avg Power 180 W
Weighted Avg Power 208 W
Max Power 827 W
Sorted the crank with the help of new torque wrench at 40nm and a belts and braces bit of Loctite 243 blue so should be fine and dialled in preload so all good.
Saddle modification holding up as well no movement, but I generally do sanity torques checks every so often on my bikes.
So the set up is running smooth no annoying noises from anywhere currently.
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I still think this needs an ASS-WORKS logo to reach its full potential.
Would not expect anything less from you Toxin ;D ;D
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there is no adapter for the L-Twoo front caliper that will fit the X68 or an SL8 unless someone custom makes one. The front caliper mounting bracket on both the SL8 and the Aethos is proprietary and permits only standard flat mount calipers and minimum 160mm rotor. the L-Twoo calipers are non standard so they could avoid patent infringement. Your best bet would be to buy a mineral oil based front caliper - an ultegra caliper would match best if you have the v3 eRX group.
Ordered now a pair of ZRACE XG lets see…
TanTan and Ltwoo confirmed all the Shared comments of you all..
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I'm guessing you'll have to switch brake calipers to Shimano style flat mount. Also have you figured out the battery in the X68? There's some details about using an ER9/X battery in the SPcycle R088 thread (which has the same seat post/back end). If the seat post is too long, you'll have to carefully cut it to size and then put the ER9/X battery inside the seat tube with ribbon string or something similar in order to pull it out for maintenance.
The battery assembly part turned out a mess… in a few words basically the battery is being on the bottom part of the tube and fortunately connected with the cables. I will think about how to take it out when the maintenance is needed…
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I'm going to get a reputation as argumentative, but no. Sl7 was late to the game. 2020. Aeroroad-2014. Supersix evo -2014. Specialized Venge (dropped stay version) 2018. The Supersix at least was an all around bike.
No controversy, you rightly have your ideas (which I don't share), but it's not a problem.
The bikes you listed in my opinion do not fall into the same "all-around aerodynamic" category as the Tarmac SL7, either because they are not aerodynamic (Supersix 2014), or because they are more aerodynamic and less agile (Aeroroad and Venge)....and then we are talking about frames that (always in my opinion) have little in common with modern frames.
Anyway I respect your idea, but I don't want/need to convince anyone. ;)
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thanks guys for the answers, so if I understood correctly sl8-x68 front has proprietary 68mm holes, proprietary adapter 68----34mm, standard is 70mm---34mm, LTWoo has 70mm adapter-----no 34mm holes.
can wheeltop calipers be mounted?
and when will the new magene group be marketed in the old continent? will it have the same problem?
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The battery assembly part turned out a mess… in a few words basically the battery is being on the bottom part of the tube and fortunately connected with the cables. I will think about how to take it out when the maintenance is needed…
This happened to me as well — the holes in the seatpost were just slightly too high, so I had to file them down a little to get the Di2 battery clip to engage properly. I had the same issue with the Darimo seatpost I bought for my SL8.
Once that was sorted and the battery clipped in securely, I also wrapped some electrical tape around the top of the clip it to hold the battery it firmly in place.
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This happened to me as well — the holes in the seatpost were just slightly too high, so I had to file them down a little to get the Di2 battery clip to engage properly. I had the same issue with the Darimo seatpost I bought for my SL8.
Once that was sorted and the battery clipped in securely, I also wrapped some electrical tape around the top of the clip it to hold the battery it firmly in place.
Used also the tap without exaggerating but I couldn’t push it down as the battery was too big for the clip, I can live with the result. Again if maintenance is needed I will find a solution. Need to admit that it’s my first time build such a bike. So far this is the current result.
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Used also the tap without exaggerating but I couldn’t push it down as the battery was too big for the clip, I can live with the result. Again if maintenance is needed I will find a solution. Need to admit that it’s my first time build such a bike. So far this is the current result.
Looks good
The clips is not great but the battery sort of clips in that why unsecured the top with tape.
to be honest the real clips for the SL8 isn’t that great either.
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thanks guys for the answers, so if I understood correctly sl8-x68 front has proprietary 68mm holes, proprietary adapter 68----34mm, standard is 70mm---34mm, LTWoo has 70mm adapter-----no 34mm holes.
can wheeltop calipers be mounted?
and when will the new magene group be marketed in the old continent? will it have the same problem?
Yes. Wheeltop calipers are standard 34mm and mount fine.
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Just read through this entire thread - I'm looking to get a new bike, and might roll the dice on this one.
Currently ride a Canyon Ultimate in size small, any recommendations on size for the X68? I'm 174cm, 78.5cm inseam, running 90mm stem on the Canyon. I did get a bike fit for the Canyon, but wanting something a bit more aggressive now - my saddle is pushed as far forward as possible on the Canyon. Size 54 still the way to go with 90mm stem? Or size down to 52 and increase stem length?
This would be my first bike build, so somewhat nervous about that too. Guess I could always take it to a local mechanic if/when I get stuck. Will be installing full Ultegra Di2 on it to start.
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Ordered now a pair of ZRACE XG lets see…
TanTan and Ltwoo confirmed all the Shared comments of you all..
Those should work in terms of fitment, but I actually found the LTwoo calipers were better performers. ;D
The battery assembly part turned out a mess… in a few words basically the battery is being on the bottom part of the tube and fortunately connected with the cables. I will think about how to take it out when the maintenance is needed…
Definitely go through the R088 thread. I think I was the first one to pioneer the LTwoo ER9/X battery solution in the SL8 knock-off frames! ;D
Use two pieces of ribbon string on both ends of the battery holder. I recommend two as contingency if the first ribbon slips off. Ribbon is important because it stays buoyant in the seat tube. A long piece of ribbon can just float inside the seat post and ties easily to the holder. Also for a stuck battery, you'll have to remove the bottom bracket and use a metal hanger wire to push it out. I spent about 3-4 days figuring this out and it's fully documented on the R088 thread!
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This happened to me as well — the holes in the seatpost were just slightly too high, so I had to file them down a little to get the Di2 battery clip to engage properly. I had the same issue with the Darimo seatpost I bought for my SL8.
Once that was sorted and the battery clipped in securely, I also wrapped some electrical tape around the top of the clip it to hold the battery it firmly in place.
Unfortunately the SL8/X68/R088 battery clip doesn't work with the LTwoo battery, since it's a bit wider. For LTwoo ER9/X users, you have to slide the battery inside the seat tube all the way down and tie string to it in order to fish it out for maintenance. Luckily it's so snug, it doesn't move while riding.
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Just read through this entire thread - I'm looking to get a new bike, and might roll the dice on this one.
Currently ride a Canyon Ultimate in size small, any recommendations on size for the X68? I'm 174cm, 78.5cm inseam, running 90mm stem on the Canyon. I did get a bike fit for the Canyon, but wanting something a bit more aggressive now - my saddle is pushed as far forward as possible on the Canyon. Size 54 still the way to go with 90mm stem? Or size down to 52 and increase stem length?
This would be my first bike build, so somewhat nervous about that too. Guess I could always take it to a local mechanic if/when I get stuck. Will be installing full Ultegra Di2 on it to start.
I think I'd go 52 with a 115 stem. I'm 10 cm shorter and very comfortable on a 49 with a 115 and a couple spacers.
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Looks good
The clips is not great but the battery sort of clips in that why unsecured the top with tape.
to be honest the real clips for the SL8 isn’t that great either.
agreed. when i built my actual SL8 it was literally a case of what is this janky clip? then i moved on to feeding the Di2 wire through the seat tube and reattaching the FD mount. that was definitely a FML moment for a few mins!
i have a Seraph X68 coming for my kid. It's going to be fun comparing it the real thing.
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Just read through this entire thread - I'm looking to get a new bike, and might roll the dice on this one.
Currently ride a Canyon Ultimate in size small, any recommendations on size for the X68? I'm 174cm, 78.5cm inseam, running 90mm stem on the Canyon. I did get a bike fit for the Canyon, but wanting something a bit more aggressive now - my saddle is pushed as far forward as possible on the Canyon. Size 54 still the way to go with 90mm stem? Or size down to 52 and increase stem length?
This would be my first bike build, so somewhat nervous about that too. Guess I could always take it to a local mechanic if/when I get stuck. Will be installing full Ultegra Di2 on it to start.
how old are you and how flexible? i'm 175 cm with an 80cm inseam. I ride a 54cm frame with a 400x110 cockpit. standard SL8 offset seat post with the saddle positioned mid rails. My SL8 fits me like a glove. my prior bike, a Gen 6 Madone SLR was also in 54 with a 100mm stem (the handlebars are a longer reach on the Madone) and the seatmast cap with a 5mm layback. saddle also positioned mid rails. The SL8 actually less stretched out than the Madone despite the bikes being very similar in size.
If you have the ability to check out an SL8 at a local bike store you should. as noted above a 52 with a 110 stem might be the ticket for you.
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Why isn't TanTan/Seraph releasing this frame with UDH?
I've been considering it as a backup, but every time I think they're surely about to add UDH support.
It's such an obvious update, especially since they're are releasing so many other frames with UDH.
I don't get it.
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Why isn't TanTan/Seraph releasing this frame with UDH?
I've been considering it as a backup, but every time I think they're surely about to add UDH support.
It's such an obvious update, especially since they're are releasing so many other frames with UDH.
I don't get it.
There's the TanTan X70 which is the exact same frame as the SPCycle R088. Both are SL8 clones with slight modifications. It has UDH, mechanical cable routing, 52mm headset bearings and doesn't require an adapter for the front fork brake calipers (compatible with LTwoo's proprietary caliper design). The only thing they omit is the aero sniffer, in exchange for a more user friendly head tube design (for both integrated bars or separate stem/bars).
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Why isn't TanTan/Seraph releasing this frame with UDH?
I've been considering it as a backup, but every time I think they're surely about to add UDH support.
It's such an obvious update, especially since they're are releasing so many other frames with UDH.
I don't get it.
If you got instagram
And your Italian is good DM this Italian bike shop.
https://www.instagram.com/cicl1talia?igsh=MXVtYmEwb2d5dTd5NA==
I commented on a post they put up where they have UDH groupset fitted to a genuine SL8
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I think I'd go 52 with a 115 stem. I'm 10 cm shorter and very comfortable on a 49 with a 115 and a couple spacers.
I would agree
I’m 178cm and ride a 54cm with a 380x110cm stem.
Saddle height is about 745cm
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how old are you and how flexible? i'm 175 cm with an 80cm inseam. I ride a 54cm frame with a 400x110 cockpit. standard SL8 offset seat post with the saddle positioned mid rails. My SL8 fits me like a glove. my prior bike, a Gen 6 Madone SLR was also in 54 with a 100mm stem (the handlebars are a longer reach on the Madone) and the seatmast cap with a 5mm layback. saddle also positioned mid rails. The SL8 actually less stretched out than the Madone despite the bikes being very similar in size.
If you have the ability to check out an SL8 at a local bike store you should. as noted above a 52 with a 110 stem might be the ticket for you.
Early 30s, fairly flexible - I can touch my toes easily if that counts for anything. The SL8 offset look to be 15mm? The Ultimate is 8mm. Unfortunately there's no shop near me that has it in stock.
At least the geo doesn't seem too different between 52 and 54, so could compensate with the stem + spacers.
Thanks!
Will need to pull together a shopping list. Were there any "must-replace" items? Saw the Garmin mount for the handlebars, was there also the seatpost wedge?
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Early 30s, fairly flexible - I can touch my toes easily if that counts for anything. The SL8 offset look to be 15mm? The Ultimate is 8mm. Unfortunately there's no shop near me that has it in stock.
At least the geo doesn't seem too different between 52 and 54, so could compensate with the stem + spacers.
Thanks!
Will need to pull together a shopping list. Were there any "must-replace" items? Saw the Garmin mount for the handlebars, was there also the seatpost wedge?
yeah you should be fine on a 52. i rode a 52 for years until age caught up!
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Will need to pull together a shopping list. Were there any "must-replace" items? Saw the Garmin mount for the handlebars, was there also the seatpost wedge?
The wedge is fine. If you're a weight weenie you could modify the saddle clamp as Sander and I have done using yokes. Actually, find them easier to get the saddle on with. Otherwise all the parts work. The stem cap is a bit oversized, I don't mind, but an actual specialized one would fit more flush and is under $10.
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Early 30s, fairly flexible - I can touch my toes easily if that counts for anything. The SL8 offset look to be 15mm? The Ultimate is 8mm. Unfortunately there's no shop near me that has it in stock.
At least the geo doesn't seem too different between 52 and 54, so could compensate with the stem + spacers.
Thanks!
Will need to pull together a shopping list. Were there any "must-replace" items? Saw the Garmin mount for the handlebars, was there also the seatpost wedge?
I'd be very interested in your experience comparing it to your current bike if you buy the frame!
I also ride the Canyon Ultimate in size S (2018) and find that the frameset somehow sucks up the "performance"... so I'm really not happy with it!
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Soo my garmin mount from Tantan disintegrated on me.. Replaced with one from MagCad design, thanks for the suggestion in your build posts Sander!
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Soo my garmin mount from Tantan disintegrated on me.. Replaced with one from MagCad design, thanks for the suggestion in your build posts Sander!
Well at least noting else disintegrated!
This one should last a while longer
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the magcad mounts for the RR cockpit are quality. I have been using their computer mounts for all of my bikes for years. had the elemnt bolt mount for the SL8 before i had the bike!
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Reporting back, might need to go for the 54 or look elsewhere...
Just got a reply re: seatpost length.
"44/49/52 use 300mm seatpost
54/56/58 use 380mm seatpost"
"52cm cannot use 380mm, the frame will be damaged"
"All seatposts must be inserted at least 100mm"
My current bike has a saddle height of 698mm from the BB, and from BB to saddle rails of approx 670mm. The Ultimate has a seat tube length of 494mm, so that's approx 176mm seat tube exposed. This is also with 172.5mm cranks, which I wanted to change to 165mm.
The X68 in 52 has a 456mm seat tube. To get the same saddle height for same leg extension, I'd need the same BB to saddle dimensions - so approx 214mm seat tube exposed (670 - 456). With the change to 165mm cranks, this would increase to 221.5mm. With minimum insertion of 100mm, I'd need the 380mm seat tube, which apparently will damage the frame (hard to see how, given the 54 seat tube length is only 17mm more - maybe the seat tubes are slightly different dimension?)
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Take 380 mm seatpost and cut it.
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Take 380 mm seatpost and cut it.
Agree!
but dont tell them your cutting it lol ;D
I would say something like this:
I ride in a super aero position on a 52cm frame, which means I need a high saddle.
A 300mm seat post is too short — it doesn’t give enough height, and it would only insert about 50mm into the frame, which is not safe.
I need a 380mm seat post to get the correct saddle height.
With the 380mm seat post, about 130mm will still be inserted into the frame — this is safe and will not cause any damage."
They may however only sell the frame with the 300mm post like specialized so you will have to buy the seat post separately
I bought a spare post after cutting 30mm off mine just in case it was $50
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I agree with all of the above. Just cut the post if needed. For reference, I run a total height to the saddle of 67.5 from center of bb on 165's. 49 cm frame with the short post. At that saddle height it sits right at the "19" mark on the post, which I assume is 19mm from the minimum insertion, or it may just be arbitrary. I'd order the frame and the longer post, and just use whatever you need to use, either the short post or cut the 380 down.
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I bought a spare post after cutting 30mm off mine just in case it was $50
Okay I'll check with them - might reach out to TanTan directly, I was chatting with the person from Seraph. See if they have a different view/can do the other seatposst.
@Sander, when you cut the seatpost, what did you do about the Di2 battery mounting clip? Did you drill new holes in, or is it sitting "loose"?
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Okay I'll check with them - might reach out to TanTan directly, I was chatting with the person from Seraph. See if they have a different view/can do the other seatposst.
@Sander, when you cut the seatpost, what did you do about the Di2 battery mounting clip? Did you drill new holes in, or is it sitting "loose"?
Take another battery holder option from AliExpress, there's one that expands with a screw and therefore sits really good in the seatpost
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Take another battery holder option from AliExpress, there's one that expands with a screw and therefore sits really good in the seatpost
I cut and redrilled the holes.
Have also DMed you
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I'm looking at getting a x68, read through all 80 pages of this thread, can anyone offer me any thing that I can stop my decision to get this frame? So far everyone seems to have a great deal of fun
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I'm looking at getting a x68, read through all 80 pages of this thread, can anyone offer me any thing that I can stop my decision to get this frame? So far everyone seems to have a great deal of fun
Look at that picture of the broken fork again :).
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Has anyone from Europe, especially Germany, already received an X68 frame and can tell me how many days it took from order to delivery?
I'm asking because I'm going on vacation soon and want to avoid the frame arriving while I'm away if I order now. But ordering after the vacation would be too late for me – I still want to get some use out of it this season.
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Has anyone from Europe, especially Germany, already received an X68 frame and can tell me how many days it took from order to delivery?
I'm asking because I'm going on vacation soon and want to avoid the frame arriving while I'm away if I order now. But ordering after the vacation would be too late for me – I still want to get some use out of it this season.
This happened to me! Lucky you, in case you are not at home, you can change the delivery via the DPD app to send it to your neighbor in the worst case.
All in all, I have to admit the whole delivery time + production time was quite fast... It’s more the impatience that made me nervous because I already had all the other parts at home, just waiting to be put in place...
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Is there anybody who might be interested in a new pair of Ltwoo brake calipers from the new eRX kit? Since they don’t fit to the X68 frame from TanTan, they are no longer needed. Sorry if this isn’t the right thread to post this in... in case of interest just write me a DM wish you all a pleasant weekend!!!
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Well at least noting else disintegrated!
This one should last a while longer.
Sander,
Is there an option so that it does not rub the headset of the address and spacers?
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Sander,
Is there an option so that it does not rub the headset of the address and spacers?
Davidhe23
I think maybe something had gotten lost in translation.
I don’t understand what you mean.
If you can send me photos that is always good
Are your spacers rubbing on the headset area of the frame? Is this what you mean?
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Davidhe23
I think maybe something had gotten lost in translation.
I don't understand what you mean.
If you can send me photos, that's always good.
Are your spacers rubbing on the headset area of the frame? Is this what you mean?
Yes, spacers brush against the frame. I already have the new yoho frame, I've tried introducing the seapost of my x68 and it fits perfectly.
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You need 240 grit sand paper (you can start with 120grit as it’s coarser and move on to 240 grit)
1. Slid sandpaper between frame and spacer hold the sandpaper in one hand and move the the bars full turn left and right.
2. When this step is finished to make sure the space is big enough between the spacer and frame
I slid a piece of paper in underneath and the slid and paper on top and repeat the step of fully turning the bars left and right.
This method although slow will ensure and nice even gap between the frame and spacer.
The sandpaper may snag to start if the gap is tight even loosen the stem a little if necessary to start with and the put the stem back correctly and keep going
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X68 Ride Review – 114km Group Ride + Ongoing Thoughts
Thought I’d finally share some proper feedback on the X68, which, as we all know, is effectively a Tarmac SL8 copy. Today was my longest ride on it so far – 114 km on a group ride – and I’ve probably done close to 400 km on it over 9 rides in total.
The Ride
Honestly? It rides pretty much like my real SL8. It sounds the same, it goes the same, it feels the same. If there are differences, they’re marginal – and maybe more in my head than anything else, because the “real one” is the one with the price tag.
The only real variance you might notice from bike to bike is going to come down to quality control and finishing – and that’s vendor-dependent, not necessarily design-dependent. Some factories apparently use slightly different carbon layups or put more effort into QC. But the ride characteristics? There’s really not a lot in it.
On Vendor Info
I’ve been speaking to someone in China who seems to know the industry quite well. We’ve been chatting for about a week. To be clear – he hasn’t tried to sell me anything. Just provided some insights into how these bikes are made and how close they really are to the originals. From what he says, most of these copies are made from direct scans or CADs of real SL8s, then molded from there. A lot of the layup is mirrored, which explains why the ride is so comparable.
If you’re interested in that side of things, I’ve also put up a separate thread in the Vendor Discussion part of the forum with more detail — feel free to have a read.
Cost vs Value
I haven’t actually ridden my real SL8 since getting this one. Part of that is probably psychological – this cost me around £600, so I’m not stressed about damaging it. My real SL8 was a custom build worth close to £20,000. The replica gives me 90–95% of the ride feel, without the anxiety. That in itself is pretty liberating.
Final Thoughts
I’m not here to recommend that people buy counterfeit frames – that’s a personal decision, and people have to weigh up the risks for themselves. But in terms of ride experience? The X68 holds up. I’ll continue to post updates as I ride it more.
As always, any thoughts or feedback are welcome.
https://strava.app.link/qW2ulEUncUb
https://chinertown.com/index.php/board,7.0.html
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Great write-up @Sander2177!
Recently I had a viewer offer some very fair critiques about my potential bias towards Chinese frames. He acknowledged the fact I've invested my own money towards reviewing western brands. A necessary evil to both grow and offer more context to my channel. However, he believes my bias is rooted in the fact I receive Chinese frames "for free" for review. Like some sort of agenda. Rather than coming to this conclusion on my own by putting all these bikes across the price spectrum through their long-term intended purposes.
I could probably easily do away with reviewing Chinese stuff altogether. And use my built-up influence to partner with local bike shops and online shops to exclusively review premium/western brands. But the reality is the difference in performance now from a $700 to $1500 to $4000 frameset is minimal. It's not a bias...it's the reality. Your feedback pretty much tracks what I expected. And other real-world (paying) customers agree with you.
My Tarmac SL8 has been sitting in a corner collecting dust for a month. I have not missed riding it thus far LoL. Currently I am in a weird spot with TanTan and the X68. TanTan doesn't wanna send me a frame for review because they don't wanna promote it. No harm no foul. I'm not complaining about this. It's a cheap frame, and in the past I've bought other frames from TanTan with my own money.
The problem is the optics. TanTan has probably figured that I'll probably cave in anyway to purchase one. I'll make click-bait content on the frame for views, offer good feedback, which ultimately funnels a host of new customers to Tantan. Something that precisely happened with my videos on Carbon Speed wheels. It would be loads of free marketing and promotion for TanTan.
I sound like a presumptionous and self obsorbed dick by saying that. But I know how the game works.
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Great write-up @Sander2177!
Recently I had a viewer offer some very fair critiques about my potential bias towards Chinese frames. He acknowledged the fact I've invested my own money towards reviewing western brands. A necessary evil to both grow and offer more context to my channel. However, he believes my bias is rooted in the fact I receive Chinese frames "for free" for review. Like some sort of agenda. Rather than coming to this conclusion on my own by putting all these bikes across the price spectrum through their long-term intended purposes.
I could probably easily do away with reviewing Chinese stuff altogether. And use my built-up influence to partner with local bike shops and online shops to exclusively review premium/western brands. But the reality is the difference in performance now from a $700 to $1500 to $4000 frameset is minimal. It's not a bias...it's the reality. Your feedback pretty much tracks what I expected. And other real-world (paying) customers agree with you.
My Tarmac SL8 has been sitting in a corner collecting dust for a month. I have not missed riding it thus far LoL. Currently I am in a weird spot with the TanTan and the X68. TanTan doesn't wanna send me a frame for review because they don't wanna promote it. No harm no foul. I'm not complaining about this. It's a cheap frame, and in the past I've bought other frames from TanTan with my own money.
The problem is the optics. TanTan has probably figured that I'll probably cave in anyway to purchase one. I'll make click-bait content on the frame for views, offer good feedback, which ultimately funnels a host of new customers to Tantan. Something that precisely happened with my videos on Carbon Speed wheels. It would be loads of free marketing and promotion for TanTan.
I sould like a presumptionous and self obsorbed dick by saying that. But I know how the game works.
Thanks, Patrick — appreciate the reply, and totally get where you’re coming from.
To be honest, I think anyone who’s followed your channel for more than five minutes would know you’re not blindly waving a flag for Chinese brands. If anything, you’ve gone out of your way to give things a proper shake-down — whether they’re $700 frames or $4000 ones — and you call it how you see it. I don’t think it’s bias, I think it’s just honest reporting based on real-world use.
The whole “you only get Chinese frames for free” argument feels like it misses the mark. People forget the amount of time and effort that goes into testing, reviewing, editing, and fielding all the questions afterward. Free or not, you’re still putting in the work — and frankly, plenty of folks benefit from the insights whether they’re buying budget or boutique.
I get what you’re saying with the TanTan situation too. It’s a bit of a weird spot — on one hand, they don’t want to promote a certain frame, but on the other, they’d probably still benefit massively if you ended up reviewing it anyway. You’re right — it’s all optics. But at the end of the day, if you’re being transparent (which you are), and the audience knows you’ve got no agenda, then that’s what matters.
As for the SL8 sitting in the corner… yeah, I get that. Once you’ve dialled in a decent setup on a solid value frame like the X68, you kind of realise how much of the high-end stuff is marginal gains (if that). Like you said: the performance gap just isn’t what it used to be.
Keep doing what you’re doing — a lot of us appreciate the content, especially those of us navigating the whole “Chinatown vs Big Brand” maze.
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Great write-up @Sander2177!
Recently I had a viewer offer some very fair critiques about my potential bias towards Chinese frames. He acknowledged the fact I've invested my own money towards reviewing western brands. A necessary evil to both grow and offer more context to my channel. However, he believes my bias is rooted in the fact I receive Chinese frames "for free" for review. Like some sort of agenda. Rather than coming to this conclusion on my own by putting all these bikes across the price spectrum through their long-term intended purposes.
I could probably easily do away with reviewing Chinese stuff altogether. And use my built-up influence to partner with local bike shops and online shops to exclusively review premium/western brands. But the reality is the difference in performance now from a $700 to $1500 to $4000 frameset is minimal. It's not a bias...it's the reality. Your feedback pretty much tracks what I expected. And other real-world (paying) customers agree with you.
My Tarmac SL8 has been sitting in a corner collecting dust for a month. I have not missed riding it thus far LoL. Currently I am in a weird spot with the TanTan and the X68. TanTan doesn't wanna send me a frame for review because they don't wanna promote it. No harm no foul. I'm not complaining about this. It's a cheap frame, and in the past I've bought other frames from TanTan with my own money.
The problem is the optics. TanTan has probably figured that I'll probably cave in anyway to purchase one. I'll make click-bait content on the frame for views, offer good feedback, which ultimately funnels a host of new customers to Tantan. Something that precisely happened with my videos on Carbon Speed wheels. It would be loads of free marketing and promotion for TanTan.
I sould like a presumptionous and self obsorbed dick by saying that. But I know how the game works.
Dude, I love watching your videos (God, that shows my age, lolz)
Keep up the good work. Plenty of people trust your opinion, and as long as you're telling us how you think it is that's enough. The truth will set you free and all that:-)
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You sir are breaking the internet! Thank you for that.
I'll repeat myself, but i'd love to watch you shoot the $hit on the Nero show, for reasons i've already spelled out on this thread when you announced you were building this frame. I do wonder whether they'd want to associate themselves with the topic because of potential legal implications (much lower risk if you were to remove these decals - or go ass-works :D); however, this kind of feedback is earth shattering in the carbon bike bubble. So much for Specialized's secret layup sauce...
One thing i hadnt anticipated is the anxiety of riding your 20k bike again. It makes a ton of sense and it's a key reason why i try to use cheap stuff, including phones: to go "meh" when they break or get stolen, as opposed to "oh *uuuuuuuuuuuck".
There was go pro, then China won with insta 360 and DJI. Go pro's CEO is one of the biggest douches of its generation, the case study is absolutely hilarious.
There was Wolkswagen in China, now China is dominating the car market.
There were Western train companies (Alstom & more) in China, now China develops, builds and even sells abroad its own trains.
There was American AI, now the likes of Deepseek caught the whole market off guard.
And so, there were Western bike brands outsourcing to China, now China makes frames that are, for all intended purposes, just as good. Taking a step back, unless we believe in the secret sauce and / or magic, i can't think of a reason why Western brands would somehow keep an edge when the rest of the industrial world hasn't.
And obviously, the devil is in the detail. When i write China, i'm not saying every factory makes good stuff, and so on. Nuance applies.
Very interesting development, thanks again for sharing.
Cheers, Serge_K.
I just wanted to dig a little deeper because 99% of what we discuss tends to be speculation. I’d love to be able to confirm what I’ve been told, but that would inevitably involve a trip to China.
The Nero boys clearly love what they do, but I’m always a bit sceptical about the aero claims brands make. Yes, there’s definitely something there, but with UCI regulations limiting what brands can do, a lot of it feels more like marketing than real innovation.
Plus, I’d probably get absolutely shredded by those two on the rollers!
These types of bike are not really the focus of their content, but I’ll send them a message on Instagram with a photo of my X68 and what I’ve learned so far and see what happens
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Great write-up @Sander2177!
Recently I had a viewer offer some very fair critiques about my potential bias towards Chinese frames. He acknowledged the fact I've invested my own money towards reviewing western brands. A necessary evil to both grow and offer more context to my channel. However, he believes my bias is rooted in the fact I receive Chinese frames "for free" for review. Like some sort of agenda. Rather than coming to this conclusion on my own by putting all these bikes across the price spectrum through their long-term intended purposes.
I could probably easily do away with reviewing Chinese stuff altogether. And use my built-up influence to partner with local bike shops and online shops to exclusively review premium/western brands. But the reality is the difference in performance now from a $700 to $1500 to $4000 frameset is minimal. It's not a bias...it's the reality. Your feedback pretty much tracks what I expected. And other real-world (paying) customers agree with you.
My Tarmac SL8 has been sitting in a corner collecting dust for a month. I have not missed riding it thus far LoL. Currently I am in a weird spot with TanTan and the X68. TanTan doesn't wanna send me a frame for review because they don't wanna promote it. No harm no foul. I'm not complaining about this. It's a cheap frame, and in the past I've bought other frames from TanTan with my own money.
The problem is the optics. TanTan has probably figured that I'll probably cave in anyway to purchase one. I'll make click-bait content on the frame for views, offer good feedback, which ultimately funnels a host of new customers to Tantan. Something that precisely happened with my videos on Carbon Speed wheels. It would be loads of free marketing and promotion for TanTan.
I sound like a presumptionous and self obsorbed dick by saying that. But I know how the game works.
Given that tantan is reading this thread, interesting messaging.
I'd be genuinely curious to see what foks that are "skeptical" of all things Chinese would say if confronted with two bikes identically painted and labeled and asked to pick which frame was which based on ride. Don't let them compare them to photos, don't let them do anything other than get on the bike and go. Identical groups etc. Its entirely possible to do, but the folks with the $$ won't. Likely because the industry would go ballistic.
While I'm sure there are tiny differences, confirmation bias is a real thing, and knowing which bike is which is bound to color things to a small extent.
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⸻
Just a bit of additional feedback on the X68 following my earlier post about the longer ride I did on Saturday.
I’ve been out again since then and I’m still really happy with it. The bike feels like a rocket — fast, responsive, and solid on the road. It continues to ride really well.
As with all my bikes, especially with how rough the British roads can be, I check the frame over before every ride — just a quick visual inspection. So far, everything looks spot on. No issues or concerns at this stage.
I’ll keep posting updates as I get more miles in.
https://strava.app.link/uLBmhXuciUb
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Does anyone knows how to buy a SL8 fork separetly ?
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Does anyone knows how to buy a SL8 fork separetly ?
[/quot
Contact the supplier of your frame or any supplier they should sell you one?
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Does anyone knows how to buy a SL8 fork separetly ?
Did you brake one? Like the one in this thread?
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I add myself to the list of frame owners, I put my feedbeck and the photos of the frame.
1 month has passed since the payment. 10 days to arrive home, everything tracked perfectly, jessi sent me a package tracking link. no hitches, normal communication, not pushy, but fast.
raw frame size 58. pleasantly surprised by the finish I would say almost perfect, a light sanding and it is ready for the painting cycle.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8vW4nxCijggKhaAY9 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/8vW4nxCijggKhaAY9)
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Have you noticed that in all of the photos from tantan and people posting pictures of the frame when they get it, the rear seat post bolt nut is installed incorrectly, and the part that is supposed to be on top from the sl8 manual is instead down? I wonder why they put it there like that.
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Have you noticed that in all of the photos from tantan and people posting pictures of the frame when they get it, the rear seat post bolt nut is installed incorrectly, and the part that is supposed to be on top from the sl8 manual is instead down? I wonder why they put it there like that.
Had to look once you highlighted that Dovh! very eagle eyed of you
Likely because they are clueless ;D probably works that way round though
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It does. Mine came that way and I rode it for a bit before pulling it apart to grease everything, and it was then I realized it was installed the wrong way according to the manual.
On another note, just ordered some molding silicone-going to try to make a topcap with some carbon and resin I have here. Really just to see what goes into it and why the carbon ones available are pricey.
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in fact I went to look at the manual to see that it is put backwards. Chinese.............
I trust in your kindness. can you give me the tightening torques of the saddle bolts, seat post, steering, handlebars, brakes etc etc...? thanks
p.s. p.s. a good support for the cmputer cycle? which is not included in the frame? thanks thanks
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in fact I went to look at the manual to see that it is put backwards. Chinese.............
I trust in your kindness. can you give me the tightening torques of the saddle bolts, seat post, steering, handlebars, brakes etc etc...? thanks
p.s. p.s. a good support for the cmputer cycle? which is not included in the frame? thanks thanks
The rear bolt is the main bolt for tightening, and I torque it to 5 Nm. The front bolt is used for adjustment because tightening the rear bolt pulls the rail down, which in turn tightens against the front bolt. Does that make sense?
It’s a bit fiddly to set up.
I grease all the bolts and apply carbon paste on the rails as well as on the front and back of the seatpost where I tighten the wedge clamp to 6.2 Nm.
some may however to this differently but thIs is the same as what i do on my SL8
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in fact I went to look at the manual to see that it is put backwards. Chinese.............
I trust in your kindness. can you give me the tightening torques of the saddle bolts, seat post, steering, handlebars, brakes etc etc...? thanks
p.s. p.s. a good support for the cmputer cycle? which is not included in the frame? thanks thanks
I love the magcad mounts.
Torque specs are here in the specialized manual, tantan just refers you there-https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/2024_TARMAC_SL8_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH.pdf
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The rear bolt is the main bolt for tightening, and I torque it to 5 Nm. The front bolt is used for adjustment because tightening the rear bolt pulls the rail down, which in turn tightens against the front bolt. Does that make sense?
It’s a bit fiddly to set up.
I grease all the bolts and apply carbon paste on the rails as well as on the front and back of the seatpost where I tighten the wedge clamp to 6.2 Nm.
some may however to this differently but thIs is the same as what i do on my SL8
I can also recommend the MagCad Design mounts. The one I posted about in the earlier post is really good. There are no wobbles. It has been rock solid on the past three rides :)
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Sander; feeling anxiety for riding a genuine SL8 vs a replica? That's wild!!!
I personally am 100% the other way and would have much more anxiety about riding a replica frame (especially considering my real frame has a lifetime warranty) and I 100% felt safer on my dead stock S-Works SL8 vs the way it is now with weight weenie parts.
For example: The SRAM Red chainrings look and feel more solid than the Gemini carbon chainring. The Power mirror saddle felt more solid than the Berk Lupina, The stock compression plug a lot more solid than the Tune plug. The Roval CLX II's more solid than the CRW's. Even the Specialized carbon bottle cages felt way stronger than the Carbonworks weenie cage I have replaced it with.
I'm a light rider at 60kg's, and never ever hesitated to let my friends ride my SL8 before, but now with the SL8 at 5.6kg's I'm very hesitant to let my heavier 80kgs+ friends ride it.
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Those are all valid comparisons, except that the frames discussed here are not sworks weight, nor are the saddles lupina weight.
The replica frame here is a pro/expert weight, and that's a different ballgame. I suspect that the qc standards that are applied are different given the inherent safety margins.
But yeah, I'm 60kg and don't worry much. Others differ and might. Part of the ww game.
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Sander; feeling anxiety for riding a genuine SL8 vs a replica? That's wild!!!
I personally am 100% the other way and would have much more anxiety about riding a replica frame (especially considering my real frame has a lifetime warranty) and I 100% felt safer on my dead stock S-Works SL8 vs the way it is now with weight weenie parts.
For example: The SRAM Red chainrings look and feel more solid than the Gemini carbon chainring. The Power mirror saddle felt more solid than the Berk Lupina, The stock compression plug a lot more solid than the Tune plug. The Roval CLX II's more solid than the CRW's. Even the Specialized carbon bottle cages felt way stronger than the Carbonworks weenie cage I have replaced it with.
I'm a light rider at 60kg's, and never ever hesitated to let my friends ride my SL8 before, but now with the SL8 at 5.6kg's I'm very hesitant to let my heavier 80kgs+ friends ride it.
the weakest part of your bike before the WW parts were added is still the weakest part of the bike after them being added. Don't let that S-Works fall top tube against a wall or crash and have your bars smack it! (actually i'm still too failure shy to stick the Tune plug in my SL8 - that's the one weenie part i just can't bring myself to use. I ride the heck out of my SL8 otherwise tho and i'm no light weight at 78kg)
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the weakest part of your bike before the WW parts were added is still the weakest part of the bike after them being added. Don't let that S-Works fall top tube against a wall or crash and have your bars smack it! (actually i'm still too failure shy to stick the Tune plug in my SL8 - that's the one weenie part i just can't bring myself to use. I ride the heck out of my SL8 otherwise tho and i'm no light weight at 78kg)
Lol well, I am a bit precious! 😅
But I’ve had that plug in both my SL7 and SL8 with no issues.
If you’re on WW forum, you might know Ryan from RhinosWorkshop — he built both bikes for me, and I really trust his judgement.
On the SL8 it’s less of a worry anyway, since the split ring is plastic now, not metal.
And hey, it’s a 30g saving — which, in WW forum terms, basically means 300g! 😂
Anyway, either bike’s gonna fail if you crash it hard enough or hit something solid — we all know that.
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I love the magcad mounts.
Torque specs are here in the specialized manual, tantan just refers you there-https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/2024_TARMAC_SL8_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH.pdf
wow, are the tightening torques identical to the original sl8? despite being a frame built elsewhere with a different carbon?
interesting
thanks anyway
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wow, are the tightening torques identical to the original sl8? despite being a frame built elsewhere with a different carbon?
interesting
thanks anyway
Computer mounts are like 2Nm don’t really need a torque wrench for
That. Tighten to feel and is a little loctite
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TT-X68 or Spcycle R088? What's the verdict about these two? Any difference between them?
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Same bike the Spcycle just no speed sniffer and a different fork
Personal preference in my opinion which one do you prefer
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54609359529_1a199ecc24.jpg)
Wanted a different cap for the x68 bars. Alpitude et al are very nice but lots of $, so made my own. This one is 4g vs the stock 7, but next attempt will be a gram lighter ;D
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Hey gents, new here but what’s the best way to get a hold of TanTan?
I emailed them at sales03@tantancycling.com like the site suggested to order the x68. But no luck with a response, and alibaba doesn’t have the frame listed. Should I just go through the seraph website?
Thanks in advance.
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Hey gents, new here but what’s the best way to get a hold of TanTan?
I emailed them at sales03@tantancycling.com like the site suggested to order the x68. But no luck with a response, and alibaba doesn’t have the frame listed. Should I just go through the seraph website?
Thanks in advance.
WhatsApp Vivian: +86 136 9093 8214
Working hours (China):
Monday to Friday, 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM
It’s best to WhatsApp around 10 AM Chinese time.
Messages sent outside these hours may get lost due to the high volume of messages and email inquiries is the same.
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WhatsApp Vivian: +86 136 9093 8214
Working hours (China):
Monday to Friday, 8:30 AM – 6:30 PM
It’s best to WhatsApp around 10 AM Chinese time.
Messages sent outside these hours may get lost due to the high volume of messages and email inquiries is the same.
Thank you Sir, noted and will do 👍
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Do you guys know where I could find Spacer & Headset kit if we want to use a separate stem and handlebar instead of the complete cockpit provided with the frame?
It seems that the original sl8 comes with both type of spacers, but in our case I don't really know.
Also is the bottom spacer the same for all the frame or it is a special design from Specialized?
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Do you guys know where I could find Spacer & Headset kit if we want to use a separate stem and handlebar instead of the complete cockpit provided with the frame?
It seems that the original sl8 comes with both type of spacers, but in our case I don't really know.
Also is the bottom spacer the same for all the frame or it is a special design from Specialized?
I know a guy well known on Instagram for making spacers for bars not for compatible frames.
Only have his instagram details.
https://www.instagram.com/thestickybottle?igsh=bTFhazZhYjQyZ2Q4
X68 only comes with spacer kit for the integrated bars where the SL8 come with a spacer kit so you can so use the SL7 stem. Specilaized part number is S222500009
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I know a guy well known on Instagram for making spacers for bats not for compatible frames.
Only have his instagram details.
https://www.instagram.com/thestickybottle?igsh=bTFhazZhYjQyZ2Q4
X68 only comes with spacer kit for the integrated bars where the SL8 come with a spacer kit so you can so use the SL7 stem. Specilaized part number is S222500009
amazing I will look after this reference, in the meantime I will download the user manual
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Welp, I have a major issue to report.
A few days ago I noticed a slight ticking/movement coming from the drivetrain. At first I thought it was the bottom bracket/crankset so I took that apart and made sure everything was greased, torqued, and installed properly. I then go to take the rear wheel out and make sure the derailleur hanger is tight when I notice that the thru axle isn't able to be tightened properly. It seems as though the receiving end for the thru-axle that sits in the rear triangle is stripped. I haven't done anything out of the ordinary when installing/removing the rear wheel so it appears overtime the threads have simply weakened and now are fully stripped. I am unable to install the thru axle with proper torque now which results in movement of the rear wheel. Major issue because this receiving "nut" is embedded in the frame so I believe the frame is toast. I will reach out to Tan Tan and see what they say.
Link to a video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19ewEcFWWuFFNCd8AgNmx1uFb7_gkYfKj/view?usp=share_link
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Welp, I have a major issue to report.
A few days ago I noticed a slight ticking/movement coming from the drivetrain. At first I thought it was the bottom bracket/crankset so I took that apart and made sure everything was greased, torqued, and installed properly. I then go to take the rear wheel out and make sure the derailleur hanger is tight when I notice that the thru axle isn't able to be tightened properly. It seems as though the receiving end for the thru-axle that sits in the rear triangle is stripped. I haven't done anything out of the ordinary when installing/removing the rear wheel so it appears overtime the threads have simply weakened and now are fully stripped. I am unable to install the thru axle with proper torque now which results in movement of the rear wheel. Major issue because this receiving "nut" is embedded in the frame so I believe the frame is toast. I will reach out to Tan Tan and see what they say.
Link to a video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19ewEcFWWuFFNCd8AgNmx1uFb7_gkYfKj/view?usp=share_link
Hey, sounds like you’re talking about the metal insert for the rear thru-axle threads. If the threads are stripped, a good bike shop should be able to re-tap it for you. If it’s only slightly damaged, they can usually clean it up with the right tap. Worst case, if the threads are really gone, they might be able to install a thread insert like a Heli-Coil. Either way, it’s fixable — just take it to someone who knows what they’re doing and make sure they confirm the correct thread pitch before starting.
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Hey, sounds like you’re talking about the metal insert for the rear thru-axle threads. If the threads are stripped, a good bike shop should be able to re-tap it for you. If it’s only slightly damaged, they can usually clean it up with the right tap. Worst case, if the threads are really gone, they might be able to install a thread insert like a Heli-Coil. Either way, it’s fixable — just take it to someone who knows what they’re doing and make sure they confirm the correct thread pitch before starting.
gotcha. i feel as though this should not have happened though, so if the metal is too weak to properly hold a thread then it would most likely happen again.
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gotcha. i feel as though this should not have happened though, so if the metal is too weak to properly hold a thread then it would most likely happen again.
I get where you’re coming from — ideally, the threads shouldn’t strip like that. If the metal is too weak to hold the thread properly, then yes, it could happen again. But honestly, this kind of thing does happen sometimes, even with good frames, whether counterfeit or not.
Often when you buy a frame, it’s not uncommon to need a bike shop to re-tap the threads on thru-axles, bottom brackets, or other parts. It’s a fairly normal repair.
My advice is to find a good mechanic who can carefully re-tap the threads and see how it goes. Sometimes that fixes the problem completely, and you won’t have any further issues.
Also, I’d recommend contacting Tantan directly and letting them know about the problem with your frame. See what they say. A lot of people have had issues with these frame suppliers, but usually, if something goes wrong, it’s up to you to ship the frame back for a replacement — if they’re even willing to replace it.
So definitely check with them first before deciding to get the threads re-tapped. Just see what their response is.
I think the best move is to contact them first and see what they say. Obviously, you’ll need to take it somewhere to get it re-tapped, and that’s going to cost some money. Maybe they’ll offer to cover some of it, maybe not — I don’t know. But it’s definitely worth a try to just see what they say.
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Welp, I have a major issue to report.
I'd thoroughly clean the threads and try another thru axle. You can get a slightly longer TA and have the thru axle go pass the drop out hole. This way it'll still lock in place, while giving the drop out a bit more stability with the longer thru axle threads.
I had this issue with a front thru axle and the method above fixed the problem. Worst case scenario is getting it re-tapped.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54609359529_1a199ecc24.jpg)
Wanted a different cap for the x68 bars. Alpitude et al are very nice but lots of $, so made my own. This one is 4g vs the stock 7, but next attempt will be a gram lighter ;D
I'm impressed wish I had those skills myself!
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Thank you for the suggestions everyone. Is the thru axle for the x68 a standard sl8 thru axle? I am going to try using a longer thru axle to start
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Thank you for the suggestions everyone. Is the thru axle for the x68 a standard sl8 thru axle? I am going to try using a longer thru axle to start
probably should get those threads in the frame cleaned up at the same time. they're a bit flattened and will probably crush softer threads on a new through axle again. the dimensions (axle length, diameter and thread pitch) are usually printed directly on the through axle. just match those if so and perhaps increase length by a millimeter or two?
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probably should get those threads in the frame cleaned up at the same time. they're a bit flattened and will probably crush softer threads on a new through axle again. the dimensions (axle length, diameter and thread pitch) are usually printed directly on the through axle. just match those if so and perhaps increase length by a millimeter or two?
appreciate it! I found this thread repair kit that I will give a try: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3X9V4SG?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_sms_apin_dp_G8WSQNNBXF4X2REPDPCJ&previewDohEventScheduleTesting=C&csmig=1&th=1
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I would agree
I’m 178cm and ride a 54cm with a 380x110cm stem.
Saddle height is about 745cm
Damn it, I’m 180cm and went with a 54cm but a 90mm stem.. might be too cramped huh? I bet I can still message them or should I just push the saddle further back and be fine.
I reached out to them on whatsapp yesterday and got my order in the same day. Thanks for the tip man.
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Damn it, I’m 180cm and went with a 54cm but a 90mm stem.. might be too cramped huh? I bet I can still message them or should I just push the saddle further back and be fine.
I reached out to them on whatsapp yesterday and got my order in the same day. Thanks for the tip man.
message them and get the longer cockpit. i'm on an actual SL8 but same difference fit wise. I'm 175cm on a 54cm bike and run a 110mm cockpit. I would not want to go shorter than that on my SL8 and i'm a crusty old dude. My inseam is 80cm for reference.
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Damn it, I’m 180cm and went with a 54cm but a 90mm stem.. might be too cramped huh? I bet I can still message them or should I just push the saddle further back and be fine.
I reached out to them on whatsapp yesterday and got my order in the same day. Thanks for the tip man.
ordered a 54cm Tarmac SL8 with a 90mm stem at 180cm tall — that’s quite a small frame and a pretty short stem for your height. For reference, I’m 178cm and ride a 54cm frame with a 110mm stem, and even that feels on the snug side.
Honestly, you’d probably be better off with a 56cm frame for a more comfortable fit and room to breathe. Also, since you’re ordering from TanTan and not your local bike shop, swapping sizes or making adjustments might not be straightforward, so definitely think about the bike size you normally ride and what feels good for you.
If you prefer a smaller frame for a more aggressive position, that’s cool, but just be aware that a 90mm stem plus a 54cm frame might leave you cramped. I’m actually planning to get a 120mm stem for my 54cm soon because it suits me better.
Just something to consider before it’s too late!
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One of the nice things about buying replicas is that you can swap the bars without the $600 cost of an actual Rapide cockpit. You still have to deal with the hydraulics.
I'd agree that the 90 is going to be short.
If you buy the longer bars, at least you'll have enough hose to go shorter if needed, if you go longer later you're replumbing the bike.
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I'm impressed wish I had those skills myself!
Thanks. It was really easy, silcone mold for the existing cap, a couple plys of carbon and pressed them with the oem topcap and a c clamp. Just finished another that is 3g now and nicely finished, but I wouldn't preload with it, I'd use the stock cap for that then replace.
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ordered a 54cm Tarmac SL8 with a 90mm stem at 180cm tall — that’s quite a small frame and a pretty short stem for your height. For reference, I’m 178cm and ride a 54cm frame with a 110mm stem, and even that feels on the snug side.
Honestly, you’d probably be better off with a 56cm frame for a more comfortable fit and room to breathe. Also, since you’re ordering from TanTan and not your local bike shop, swapping sizes or making adjustments might not be straightforward, so definitely think about the bike size you normally ride and what feels good for you.
If you prefer a smaller frame for a more aggressive position, that’s cool, but just be aware that a 90mm stem plus a 54cm frame might leave you cramped. I’m actually planning to get a 120mm stem for my 54cm soon because it suits me better.
Just something to consider before it’s too late!
100% this. currently building up an X68 in 56cm for my kid. he is 183cm and we will be using a 400/110 cockpit for him.
a 110 works for my old bones on my 54 but i originally wanted a 380/115 but that was on never ending backorder so settled on the 110.
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Thanks just messaged them for the 120mm. hopefully didn’t ship yet.
If anyone is debating about ordering a frame but impatient about wait time, They told me that
apparently they got a bunch of matte black frames sitting around in the factory waiting to be purchased and shipped. 12 hours ago
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Thanks just messaged them for the 120mm. hopefully didn’t ship yet.
If anyone is debating about ordering a frame but impatient about wait time, They told me that
apparently they got a bunch of matte black frames sitting around in the factory waiting to be purchased and shipped. 12 hours ago
what color did you end up with? we originally ordered the pearlescent white for the kid but ended up with a metallic red being shipped due to availability. i think he will prefer the red in the long run.
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100% this. currently building up an X68 in 56cm for my kid. he is 183cm and we will be using a 400/110 cockpit for him.
a 110 works for my old bones on my 54 but i originally wanted a 380/115 but that was on never ending backorder so settled on the 110.
What is his inseam?
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Be careful when buying, I ordered a 56 measuring 178cm and the only solution I could find is to buy another new frame. now I have 54 and 100mm of STEM and I'm very comfortable.
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What is his inseam?
85cm
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what color did you end up with? we originally ordered the pearlescent white for the kid but ended up with a metallic red being shipped due to availability. i think he will prefer the red in the long run.
I originally was going to go with raw but they mentioned they have matte black ready to go so I opted for the matte. I ended up sticking with 54cm since I’m closer to 179cm and my inseam is 81.3cm. Hoping this fits well 😬
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Thanks. It was really easy, silcone mold for the existing cap, a couple plys of carbon and pressed them with the oem topcap and a c clamp. Just finished another that is 3g now and nicely finished, but I wouldn't preload with it, I'd use the stock cap for that then replace.
I’m sure it’s way for you 😂
I do the same when preloading use round metal cap then tighten stem then swap cap.
Same with SL8 the carbon tops cap from HOPP is only 2nm so delicate!
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Thanks. It was really easy, silcone mold for the existing cap, a couple plys of carbon and pressed them with the oem topcap and a c clamp. Just finished another that is 3g now and nicely finished, but I wouldn't preload with it, I'd use the stock cap for that then replace.
Pictures ;)
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Pictures ;)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54614241532_2fec8afb9f.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54614229512_fbf488cd89.jpg)
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Status update:
Finally got my frames, 56 in petrol/gold and 52 in black.
I'm a bit short on time and a few spares/tools are still missing, but here are some infos:
56 came in at 890g, not really light but ok, 52 not checked yet.
Forks seem to be from different production facilities:
petrol green is appr. 60g lighter than the black one and has different inserts, steering tube, QR code sticker, etc
(https://i.ibb.co/nMSdh7bJ/PXL-20250612-150559502-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMSdh7bJ) (https://i.ibb.co/pj3khsy5/PXL-20250612-150710807-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pj3khsy5) (https://i.ibb.co/PZJVWcRF/PXL-20250612-150731218-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PZJVWcRF)
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(https://i.ibb.co/5hsKdRQK/PXL-20250612-150814060-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5hsKdRQK) (https://i.ibb.co/C3J76XLv/PXL-20250612-150834209-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C3J76XLv) (https://i.ibb.co/vCHxTF8p/PXL-20250612-150853718-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vCHxTF8p)
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(https://i.ibb.co/vCHxTF8p/PXL-20250612-150853718-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vCHxTF8p) (https://i.ibb.co/whdvrKYr/PXL-20250612-150901604-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/whdvrKYr) (https://i.ibb.co/BK7g8RhG/PXL-20250612-150939151-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BK7g8RhG)
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(https://i.ibb.co/VcVzdXfS/IMG-20250612-WA0002.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VcVzdXfS) (https://i.ibb.co/JFsNJkK4/PXL-20250612-053138261-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JFsNJkK4) (https://i.ibb.co/PZkc63D0/PXL-20250623-155353123-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PZkc63D0)
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Modified the seat post.
Front/rear bolts are 5mm with a 5mm titanium barrel nut, front yoke had to be drilled to 5mm.
(https://i.ibb.co/jPLQhLNP/PXL-20250623-153925245-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jPLQhLNP) (https://i.ibb.co/bTKm4FW/PXL-20250623-153943019-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bTKm4FW) (https://i.ibb.co/7xp83L5y/PXL-20250623-154001500-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7xp83L5y)
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(https://i.ibb.co/BK2926TL/PXL-20250623-154114314-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BK2926TL)
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(https://i.ibb.co/VcVzdXfS/IMG-20250612-WA0002.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VcVzdXfS) (https://i.ibb.co/JFsNJkK4/PXL-20250612-053138261-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JFsNJkK4) (https://i.ibb.co/PZkc63D0/PXL-20250623-155353123-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PZkc63D0)
Hawt. Love the colors and the Road Runner!
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that's a heck of a cassette! i'd get to use about 3 gears of that on all but the most windy of days here in Florida!
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order placed, now it is time to wait 20-35days to get the frame painted and then 18-25days for delivery
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that's a heck of a cassette! i'd get to use about 3 gears of that on all but the most windy of days here in Florida!
The cassette is a Campa Ekar, I'll use the wheelset in an other bike for an ultra race including mountain regions.
Will change the cassette to 11/30 afterwards.
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The cassette is a Campa Ekar, I'll use the wheelset in an other bike for an ultra race including mountain regions.
Will change the cassette to 11/30 afterwards.
An Ekar 9-42 makes for a very good 1-by setup, which in my opinion has almost no drawbacks vs. 2-by systems... so you could think about keeping it:)
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An Ekar 9-42 makes for a very good 1-by setup, which in my opinion has almost no drawbacks vs. 2-by systems... so you could think about keeping it:)
It has one huge (small) one. The 9 tooth cog
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9t cassettes are fine. It puts the 11t cog in a better chain line. The 9t cog is is best used for the downhill or for brief acceleration. If you use the 9t cog often, it probably means your front chainring is too small.
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If I wanted a id glossy black frame I was told to order the black matte one from their page and say I’d want the glossy one. Is that how yall ordered as well?
Bit sceptical if I’m the end a matte black shows up because they didn’t read the comment.
They mean the one at the end of the ordering process right
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If I wanted a id glossy black frame I was told to order the black matte one from their page and say I’d want the glossy one. Is that how yall ordered as well?
Bit sceptical if I’m the end a matte black shows up because they didn’t read the comment.
They mean the one at the end of the ordering process right
send them an email and they will revert back to you with an invoice where you can check everything.
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send them an email and they will revert back to you with an invoice where you can check everything.
Ah okay. Just using the page of the black matte is what they were saying on WhatsApp.
Thanks.
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Status update:
Finally got my frames, 56 in petrol/gold and 52 in black.
I'm a bit short on time and a few spares/tools are still missing, but here are some infos:
56 came in at 890g, not really light but ok, 52 not checked yet.
Forks seem to be from different production facilities:
petrol green is appr. 60g lighter than the black one and has different inserts, steering tube, QR code sticker, etc
(https://i.ibb.co/nMSdh7bJ/PXL-20250612-150559502-MP.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMSdh7bJ) (https://i.ibb.co/pj3khsy5/PXL-20250612-150710807-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pj3khsy5) (https://i.ibb.co/PZJVWcRF/PXL-20250612-150731218-NIGHT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PZJVWcRF)
Strange, what type of fork failed here before? :s
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9t cassettes are fine. It puts the 11t cog in a better chain line. The 9t cog is is best used for the downhill or for brief acceleration. If you use the 9t cog often, it probably means your front chainring is too small.
exactly!
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Strange, what type of fork failed here before? :s
The failed one had also a bar code on it, so I assume that it was the light one.
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9t cassettes are fine. It puts the 11t cog in a better chain line. The 9t cog is is best used for the downhill or for brief acceleration. If you use the 9t cog often, it probably means your front chainring is too small.
No it's not imo, because for this cassette you gotta use a small chainring in the front which sucks. Really don't see any point in using a cassette 9-42 vs something like 10/11-46 or bigger
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This cassette belongs to a gravel groupset. And for that it's very well suited IMO. I got it on my gravel bike. And I only really need the 9t cog on road descents with a 40t front chainring. Sometimes also on very fast gravel descents. Would I want to use it on a road bike? Not really. For me drivetrain efficiency matters on the road. You'd be riding a smallish front chainring and with road speeds, you'd probably be riding predominantly on rather small cogs in the back. I love this cassette on gravel, though.
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About to order a frame. I am torn between size 54 and 56. Coming from gravel bike to first road bike. 181cm, and 74cm from bottom bracket to top of saddle. Test drove SL8 at LBS, but it was rather short session swapping bikes and driving few hundred meters only.
54 felt nimble and agile, 56 felt bit long. However, both were equipped with non integrated stem 90mm and handlebar +6 degrees. Going integrated with -6 degrees would put me even more racy position. As setup is quite static with only 25mm spacers to play, and I feel being between sizes I would appreciate comments on how to choose correct sizing.
Secondly, I see nice colors being picked. Which colors are those with some metallic glare?
Asking Vivian, I received massive catalog of Pantone colors. But aren’t those pastel colors..? There is also 8 different chameleon colors which are more what I am looking for but a bit too bright. Ideally would like to have dark color with some sparkle but not too much.
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About to order a frame. I am torn between size 54 and 56. Coming from gravel bike to first road bike. 181cm, and 74cm from bottom bracket to top of saddle. Test drove SL8 at LBS, but it was rather short session swapping bikes and driving few hundred meters only.
54 felt nimble and agile, 56 felt bit long. However, both were equipped with non integrated stem 90mm and handlebar +6 degrees. Going integrated with -6 degrees would put me even more racy position. As setup is quite static with only 25mm spacers to play, and I feel being between sizes I would appreciate comments on how to choose correct sizing.
Secondly, I see nice colours being picked. Which colours are those with some metallic glare?
Asking Vivian, I received massive catalogue of Pantone colours. But aren’t those pastel colours..? There is also 8 different chameleon colours which are more what I am looking for but a bit too bright. Ideally would like to have dark colour with some sparkle but not too much.
Thanks for sharing your situation! Choosing between a 54 and 56 when you’re 181 cm tall and transitioning from a gravel bike can definitely be tricky.
From what you describe, the 54 felt nimble and agile, while the 56 felt a bit long. Given both had a 90mm non-integrated stem and a +6° handlebar, switching to an integrated stem with -6° could indeed make your position more aggressive and stretched out. Since your setup has limited adjustment (only 25mm spacers), and you’re feeling in-between sizes, here are a few thoughts:
If you prefer a more responsive, agile ride and are comfortable with a slightly tighter fit, the 54 might suit you better.
If you want a bit more stability and stretch, and don’t mind a larger frame, the 56 could be the way to go.
Stem length adjustments or different handlebar angles can help fine-tune fit, but since your options are limited, try to decide based on your comfort and riding style.
Since you only had a short test ride, consider a longer demo if possible or seek advice from others with similar stats who have ridden both sizes.
Regarding colours — metallic glare usually comes from finishes that have fine metallic flakes in the paint. The Pantone catalogue can be overwhelming, and yes, many are pastel or flat colors. The chameleon colours you mentioned are vibrant but might be too bright for your taste.
For a dark color with subtle sparkle, you might want to look for finishes described as "metallic," "pearlescent," or “sparkle black” — these usually have a low-key shimmer without being too flashy. A few guys have bought the white frame in pearlescent and one with gold i believe which is subtle. I still like the transparent red colour as they call it where it is red over bare carbon.
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Special-Red-Paint-Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70032C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p6397145.html
I did want this in blue but my frame was to far gone in production so had to stick with the gloss over bare/raw carbon
Also, this is me: I often see the question in posts: “What frame size should I buy?” For reference, I’m 178 cm tall and ride a 54 cm frame. My saddle height—from the middle of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle—is 74 cm. I usually run a 110 mm stem, but I’ve just ordered another set of bars for my X68 with a 120 mm stem.
The 54 cm frame feels quite compact to me. I think I could probably get away with a 56 cm frame too, maybe paired with a 100 or 110 mm stem. But at 48 years old (lol), I’m still flexible enough to comfortably ride the 54. It’s always a tricky choice though!
Regarding the Tarmac SL8 for 181 cm, I’d say a 56 cm is generally the right size. It tends to offer a good balance of comfort and performance. Of course, your exact sizing might depend on your body proportions like inseam and torso length, and your preferred riding style. If you want a more aggressive and stretched-out position, 56 is solid; if you prefer something more compact, a 54 could work with some stem and handlebar adjustments.
What frame size do you normally ride? And do you know your inseam or saddle height? That info can help fine-tune the recommendation even more.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you want to discuss more.
Want me to tweak the tone or shorten it?
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About to order a frame. I am torn between size 54 and 56. Coming from gravel bike to first road bike. 181cm, and 74cm from bottom bracket to top of saddle. Test drove SL8 at LBS, but it was rather short session swapping bikes and driving few hundred meters only.
54 felt nimble and agile, 56 felt bit long. However, both were equipped with non integrated stem 90mm and handlebar +6 degrees. Going integrated with -6 degrees would put me even more racy position. As setup is quite static with only 25mm spacers to play, and I feel being between sizes I would appreciate comments on how to choose correct sizing.
Secondly, I see nice colors being picked. Which colors are those with some metallic glare?
Asking Vivian, I received massive catalog of Pantone colors. But aren’t those pastel colors..? There is also 8 different chameleon colors which are more what I am looking for but a bit too bright. Ideally would like to have dark color with some sparkle but not too much.
If you have not done so already why not get a bike fit and show your fitter the dimensions for each frame etc? See what they suggest based on your fit? Especially when buying blind. Many fitters will do this. It won’t be a lot of money when risk is you get the wrong sise frame.
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I'm 1,85cm tall with 83cm inseam length and riding a 56 with 204mm reach (stem+handlebar).
Definetly by a 54!
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Looking at maybe purchasing a X68 frame also but I'm afraid the frame is simply too small for me.
Stack: 608 mm
Reach: 400 mm
Cranklenght current: 175 mm
saddle heidght: 883 middle bracket to top saddle
What do you guess think? Normally I would go for a 61 but as the X68 is only available in 58 and a 380mm seatpost I'm afraid it will be too small.
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I was between a 49 and 52. My saddle height is 67.5 and the reach on the 49 was great with the 110 bar, the 52 would have worked with the 90 but had more stack. I went with the 49 as all of my life I've been on bikes that had little seatpost showing and often looked awkward and felt as if I wasn't getting full potential. My concern was that the 49 would be too low, as I'm 65 and had a previous cervical spine injury. But I'm completely happy with the 49. Yes, I'm running all of the spacers. But the drop is acceptable, and I feel "in" the bike rather than on it, and the handling is razor sharp with the weight distribution as it is.
I'd say with most bikes, but especially the sl8, I'd size down if between sizes, just use the geo chart to make sure your saddle/bar difference is within a range that seems workable.
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my feeling on SL8 sizing is that it should in almost all cases be sized with the use of at least a 100mm cockpit in mind and preferably a 110mm cockpit. the bike is just butter when the fit is right.
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Looking at maybe purchasing a X68 frame also but I'm afraid the frame is simply too small for me.
Stack: 608 mm
Reach: 400 mm
Cranklenght current: 175 mm
saddle heidght: 883 middle bracket to top saddle
What do you guess think? Normally I would go for a 61 but as the X68 is only available in 58 and a 380mm seatpost I'm afraid it will be too small.
That will not work. You would have too much seatpost exposed (way beyond the minimum insert level).
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I am 181cm tall, internal leg height 93cm, I pedal with a saddle height of 82cm, I bought the 58, with 38 x 75mm handlebars (a gamble)
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No it's not imo, because for this cassette you gotta use a small chainring in the front which sucks. Really don't see any point in using a cassette 9-42 vs something like 10/11-46 or bigger
This is why I use a 9-50t cassette. Problem solved.
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yesterday i tried to insert the expander plug supplied with the frame and it got stuck inside the fork stem. i lost more than 1 hour to extract it, i had to cut it and from the inside and with pliers i barely managed to remove it. i ordered the expander plug from DEDA Elementi. has it happened to you too?
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yesterday i tried to insert the expander plug supplied with the frame and it got stuck inside the fork stem. i lost more than 1 hour to extract it, i had to cut it and from the inside and with pliers i barely managed to remove it. i ordered the expander plug from DEDA Elementi. has it happened to you too?
Which Deda model did you order?
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yesterday i tried to insert the expander plug supplied with the frame and it got stuck inside the fork stem. i lost more than 1 hour to extract it, i had to cut it and from the inside and with pliers i barely managed to remove it. i ordered the expander plug from DEDA Elementi. has it happened to you too?
There's a specific technique to remove the sl8/clone expander after its been tightened. https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=150915&start=15
You can also use a slide hammer type bearing puller etc.
Mine came from tantan without the specialized style expander, rather a plug similar to the deda but generic. I'm running a carbon ti style plug currently.
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There's a specific technique to remove the sl8/clone expander after its been tightened. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNizysonc74
You can also use a slide hammer type bearing puller etc.
Mine came from tantan without the specialized style expander, rather a plug similar to the deda but generic. I'm running a carbon ti style plug currently.
Link to TiCarbon plug youre using?
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I’m 175cm with an inseam of 77cm what size do people recommend? I ride a 54 trek domane so far but the bike feels a tad bit big at times (although long rides I get very used to it after 200km)
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Link to TiCarbon plug youre using?
I'm using this "clone"-https://www.ebay.com/itm/387460067357 or https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805414830943.html?
The real thing is here: https://www.lordgun.com/carbon-ti-x-plug-headset-expander-1?option=54885&destination=USA¤cy=USD&srsltid=AfmBOopASlCoSK6IUpH6x0vroctEx_VWKy31LVxauIsjsEYK75GgUZhJMLQ&gQT=1
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Regarding the Tarmac SL8 for 181 cm, I’d say a 56 cm is generally the right size. It tends to offer a good balance of comfort and performance. Of course, your exact sizing might depend on your body proportions like inseam and torso length, and your preferred riding style. If you want a more aggressive and stretched-out position, 56 is solid; if you prefer something more compact, a 54 could work with some stem and handlebar adjustments.
What frame size do you normally ride? And do you know your inseam or saddle height? That info can help fine-tune the recommendation even more.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you want to discuss more.
Want me to tweak the tone or shorten it?
Thank you for comprehensive comment! My inseam is 86cm, and saddle height 74cm measured along seat tube. I have done bit of DIY bike fit based on Neil Stanbury videos. I feel I get the cleats and saddle height / position quite good, but cockpit area still needs some work.
Played also with Specialized sizing tool which is based on height and chin length, with their guide I measured approx 40cm chin length. Interestingly, I got 56 when entered 181cm and 40cm, but 54 when entering 181cm and 39,95cm... Seems I am just between sizes according to Spez as well.
Currently riding Kona gravel bike with size 54. Comparing with geometrygeeks I see there is not much difference in reach - 54 is 4mm shorter, and 56 is 7mm longer. Stack on the other hand is 25mm lower on 56 and 46mm lower on 54. But as I don't have earlier experience on real road bike, I am not sure how to read this. I have swapped to longer stem and removing spacers, and feel I can definitely go lower. But how much, that I don't know.
Interesting comments from others as well. I keep seeing "size down" for this bike. Could you guys share reasoning why this recommendation?
Regarding colors, I got YS color options which is listing many metallic and pearl color options. I am sure I can pick nice color form here!
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The "size down" comes from a couple of points-first, some folks find the sl8 to be quick steering, particularly descending. Weight on the front end helps with this, and sizing down accommodates that. I've not had any issues descending, in part because I'm on the smaller of the sizes I was "between". It also enhances the feeling of being within the cg of the bike rather than on top of it. Its a snappy bike, and I think having it slightly small rather than slightly big enhances that.
I've not ridden a "larger" x68 or sl8, but its slightly smaller with a lower headtube than most of my bikes, and all I can say is it feels more of a piece of me than many other great bikes I have/have ridden.
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Started the build here. Dura ace groupset front brake caliper came with a mount attached, replacing the mounting adapter for the one which came with the frame. The bottom bolt fits fine, the top bolt seems too long, anyone experienced something similiar, bolts are reused from the original shimano mount adapter. As if the x68 has a deeper hole for the top bolt and therefore doesn’t tight well.
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Unless your adapter is sl8 specific, its wrong for the frame. Use the one that came with the frame. The fork mount spacing is unique to sl8/x68 and Aetheos.
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Which Deda model did you order?
I bought this one, it arrived, it seems better designed, at least it doesn't get stuck inside me
https://dedaelementi.com/it/expander-70 (https://dedaelementi.com/it/expander-70)
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There's a specific technique to remove the sl8/clone expander after its been tightened. https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=150915&start=15
You can also use a slide hammer type bearing puller etc.
Mine came from tantan without the specialized style expander, rather a plug similar to the deda but generic. I'm running a carbon ti style plug currently.
thanks, I didn't know about this peculiarity. of course the extractor costs 5 expanders. I solved it by sawing it ;D
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thanks, I didn't know about this peculiarity. of course the extractor costs 5 expanders. I solved it by sawing it ;D
Occasionally it has been noted that people have cut down the steer tube on the SL8 but have failed to cut down the corresponding black part on the provided expander thus it gets stuck.
And also the expander has a particular technique to remove it as noted above!
Good thing I don’t use these plugs seem like a faff!
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I did a race this Saturday, and there were many fast descents over 70km/h, with heavy braking at the bottom to a sharp left.
There was also a gravel section with rough terrain and a descent there where I was going over 50km/h. The frame and fork survived, and everything is ok. I'm 191cm and I weigh 101-2kg with all the gels on me, it was closer to 102kg i'd say :D :D
I hope that this was a good stress test for my frame. I was like, if it goes, at least it is at the place where the ambulance is relatively close by (joke not joke :D). Also, to put the hat on my stupidity, I rode that with my cracked seat post, which held up fine too :D
This is how the bike looked after :D
This purple looks amazing! Do you know the color code for this? What size frame is it?
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This purple looks amazing! Do you know the color code for this? What size frame is it?
Hey, thanks! :) Also really love the color, it's holding up fine for a matte color so far.
I posted it here https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5353.msg76591.html#msg76591 in an earlier post.
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Quick question so I don't have to leaf through all 95 pages... are the chameleon colors sealed with 2k clearcoat or just 1k?
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Quick question so I don't have to leaf through all 95 pages... are the chameleon colors sealed with 2k clearcoat or just 1k?
all colors are coated with 2K clear coat or glossy or matt, they are transparent paints that resist UV. colored paints including chameleon are not resistant to anything and must be protected. even the very cheap Chinese paints are. it is similar to the process of cars if not the same
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I'm asking because I want a durable, high-quality finish, and from what I've read, 2K clear coat seems to be the better option.
It offers much better protection, shine, and longevity compared to 1K.
I also understand that a clear coat is always needed over any base color – whether it's solid, metallic, or pearl – to seal and protect the paint.
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I'm asking because I want a durable, high-quality finish, and from what I've read, 2K clear coat seems to be the better option.
It offers much better protection, shine, and longevity compared to 1K.
I also understand that a clear coat is always needed over any base color – whether it's solid, metallic, or pearl – to seal and protect the paint.
At the end of the day, it’s going to get scratched—unless you’re planning to apply PPF (paint protection film). No offence, but it’s a budget frame, not a museum piece 😄
If you’re really particular about the finish, you can always order the frame in bare carbon and do the paint and clear coat yourself. But honestly—how shiny do you want the bike to be?
My gloss UD frame is already shiny enough for me!
Also, just to add: for a $600 USD frame, it’s very unlikely the manufacturer is using a proper 2K automotive-grade clear coat. Even big brands like Specialized don’t always use 2K unless it’s on a high-end custom or pro-level finish. Most production frames use UV-cured or 1K-style finishes—they’re quicker and cheaper to apply at scale.
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At the end of the day, it’s going to get scratched—unless you’re planning to apply PPF (paint protection film). No offence, but it’s a budget frame, not a museum piece 😄
If you’re really particular about the finish, you can always order the frame in bare carbon and do the paint and clear coat yourself. But honestly—how shiny do you want the bike to be?
My gloss UD frame is already shiny enough for me!
Also, just to add: for a $600 USD frame, it’s very unlikely the manufacturer is using a proper 2K automotive-grade clear coat. Even big brands like Specialized don’t always use 2K unless it’s on a high-end custom or pro-level finish. Most production frames use UV-cured or 1K-style finishes—they’re quicker and cheaper to apply at scale.
Especially when it comes to decals, a 2K clear coat is the better choice. If you’re not careful when peeling them off, the entire layer of paint can come off with the decals. Plus, the colors come through better, and the „wet-effect“ becomes more pronounced. After all, why shouldn’t a $600 frame also look high-quality?
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Especially when it comes to decals, a 2K clear coat is the better choice. If you’re not careful when peeling them off, the entire layer of paint can come off with the decals. Plus, the colors come through better, and the „wet-effect“ becomes more pronounced. After all, why shouldn’t a $600 frame also look high-quality?
I don’t disagree but this is Tan Tan 😂
Will see when I peel my decals off!
Will use heat though
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Me again, here I share you some impressions from my finished bike…
Very happy with the result despite the fact that I’m not quite happy about the finish of the paint job (insufficient clear coat on some spots). I may repaint it in some years.
Cheers and nice weekend!!!
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Congrats. Looks great! need some drive side pics too
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Wow that white paint really shows how different the layup is. The tubes going into the headtube, the downtube shape and also the junction between top tube and seatpost (that bump) look very different (less smooth) to my SL8. Also, the shape around the front thru axle is completely different (SL8 fork hugs the thru axle a LOT more).
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Wow that white paint really shows how different the layup is. The tubes going into the headtube, the downtube shape and also the junction between top tube and seatpost (that bump) look very different (less smooth) to my SL8. Also, the shape around the front thru axle is completely different (SL8 fork hugs the thru axle a LOT more).
It actually looks just like the bigger sizes. The proportions are way different and I agree it's nicer on a small size.
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I actually think a lot of that is reflections in the photos. Although mine is a a much smaller size (49) the downtube isn't flattened (round like an actual) and there's no "bumps" at the tube junctions.
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We all know by now that this frame has nothing to do with the original, and that's how it should stay. As you can see, there are no stickers visible. All in all it doesn't cost 15k, but under 2k and for that price i‘m more than happy to have at least a frame that from the shape impressed me since day one. Who cares about the decals and minor differences to the original…
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question, and apologies if has been answered before. Has anyone tried an OEM or Darimo seat post in the X68 frame?
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question, and apologies if has been answered before. Has anyone tried an OEM or Darimo seat post in the X68 frame?
Can only speak for the Hylix SL8 seat post, that fits. So I'd assume the OEM and the Darimo would fit as well
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Hey!
I’ve started building my bike now, only potential problem I’ve found so far is that the headset bottom bearing is sitting high on the crown race. I’ve seen some mentions of this, but did anyone solve this?
Maybe this is acceptable?
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Hey!
I’ve started building my bike now, only potential problem I’ve found so far is that the headset bottom bearing is sitting high on the crown race. I’ve seen some mentions of this, but did anyone solve this?
Maybe this is acceptable?
That's how its sits you need to install fully and finish everything off. There is a gap on my genuine and X68 are the same
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I went to a few local stores to me yesterday and test rode actual SL8 to figure out size. I'm 188cm and 91.4cm inseam. My torso is a bit short compared to my legs and so are my arms. Wingspan is 190cm.
I rode a 58 Pro. 44cm bars with 100mm stem. SRAM Force D1 gen. It felt ok off the bat but over a 5min test ride my neck started to get strained. I felt a little too stretched out. Seat height felt ok but not 100% but thats expected with such a small test ride.
Went to another shop that had a size 56 Sworks with SRAM Red. My god this bike felt like such a better fit. I didnt feel like the stack was too low, yes it had all the spacers installed, but Id rather stack spacers than use a 90mm stem. I will be ordering a 56 X68.
Currently in chats with Vivian to do a custom paint job of purple and white. I work at a store that has a bike shop(large retailer in the USA) so I'll be trying to document everything I can while building it up.
I talked with Vivian about refacing the bottom bracket and brake mounts after paint and she basically said I'm on my own if there is overspray.
"Please note that we have processed the brake and bottom bracket positions, but if you find any mismatch or inappropriateness during assembly, you will need to adjust them manually. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!"
To anyone that has had their frame built up, how bad were the faces of the brakes and BB?
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To anyone that has had their frame built up, how bad were the faces of the brakes and BB?
[/quote]
Compared to a genuine SL8, the brake mounts on this one aren’t faced — there’s a bit of paint overspray on them. But honestly, I just fitted everything straight on and haven’t had any issues. No brake rub, and alignment seems good so far.
I don’t have a facing tool — if I did, I’d probably clean it up properly. But I just used a bit of 320 grit sandpaper to knock back the paint on the mounting surfaces. Everything seated fine, and the calipers bolted up without fuss.
Overall, for the money, I think it’s totally reasonable.
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That's how its sits you need to install fully and finish everything off. There is a gap on my genuine and X68 are the same
Perfect, thank you for the clarification!
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I went to a few local stores to me yesterday and test rode actual SL8 to figure out size. I'm 188cm and 91.4cm inseam. My torso is a bit short compared to my legs and so are my arms. Wingspan is 190cm.
I rode a 58 Pro. 44cm bars with 100mm stem. SRAM Force D1 gen. It felt ok off the bat but over a 5min test ride my neck started to get strained. I felt a little too stretched out. Seat height felt ok but not 100% but thats expected with such a small test ride.
Went to another shop that had a size 56 Sworks with SRAM Red. My god this bike felt like such a better fit. I didnt feel like the stack was too low, yes it had all the spacers installed, but Id rather stack spacers than use a 90mm stem. I will be ordering a 56 X68.
Currently in chats with Vivian to do a custom paint job of purple and white. I work at a store that has a bike shop(large retailer in the USA) so I'll be trying to document everything I can while building it up.
I talked with Vivian about refacing the bottom bracket and brake mounts after paint and she basically said I'm on my own if there is overspray.
"Please note that we have processed the brake and bottom bracket positions, but if you find any mismatch or inappropriateness during assembly, you will need to adjust them manually. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation!"
To anyone that has had their frame built up, how bad were the faces of the brakes and BB?
mine were faced perfectly. Both BB and brake mounts. But I just have a standart black frame. Btw I should have made around 4000 km on the frame up to now. All good still. No issues to report at all.
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mine were faced perfectly. Both BB and brake mounts. But I just have a standart black frame. Btw I should have made around 4000 km on the frame up to now. All good still. No issues to report at all.
I hope mine ends up super clean too! Glad to hear that you havent had issues! I love that it is a super aero frame, sure its probably not as aero as a genuine SL8 but I'm sure its pretty badass. I loved the geometry when I rode the 56.
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Ok the bloody thing has finally arrived!
A few photos sorry there not more organised but did not have much time this evening.
Comments it looks exactly the same.
Head tube is not taller before anyone asks its the way I’m holding the phone.
Roval bar I need to look at it’s not 100% no groove for head cap to sit onto for a nice flat transition and no textured surface on top.
The tops look wider where the stem meets but have to get the calipers on it.
Waiting for some new scales
But frame was 798g no hardware
Forks uncut 399g
But will check with better quality scales when they arrive
First impression well I could have saved £5000k!!
Hi, I'm about to pull the trigger on a x68, but still unsure about taking ud glossy. Does anyone have experience with it, how raw is the look? Coz I dont really like the look of raw carbon, so maybe asking for ud matte with a glossy coat might be an option? The pictures on the thread have been really helpful! Are those edges something u actually see in the ud glossy frame, or is it just here on the picture due to lighting?
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Hi, I'm about to pull the trigger on a x68, but still unsure about taking ud glossy. Does anyone have experience with it, how raw is the look? Coz I dont really like the look of raw carbon, so maybe asking for ud matte with a glossy coat might be an option? The pictures on the thread have been really helpful! Are those edges something u actually see in the ud glossy frame, or is it just here on the picture due to lighting?
Thats my frame so if you don't like RAW carbon my advice don't get it. Get gloss black.
this is the same as my real SL8 which is green over raw carbon so you do see the edges of the layup etc beneath the gloss
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Alright, thanks a lot :), I think it looks super great just not an everyday look for me, I like it a little more “tidy” but thats probably quite personal preference ;). Did people here get the CS-RDW-50-33 wheelset (26internal 33/34ext.) of peter or the one CS-RDW-50-31 with 24internal and 31ext. for the x68? Probably the first is too wide, or has someone been able to fit the with 32 mm tires?
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Raw dogging was the past, and is 100% the future too.
Always the Joker
#standard ;D
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Alright, thanks a lot :), I think it looks super great just not an everyday look for me, I like it a little more “tidy” but thats probably quite personal preference ;). Did people here get the CS-RDW-50-33 wheelset (26internal 33/34ext.) of peter or the one CS-RDW-50-31 with 24internal and 31ext. for the x68? Probably the first is too wide, or has someone been able to fit the with 32 mm tires?
I have both the 50-31 and the 60-31 wheels.
With 28mm tyres (as shown in the photos below), they measure around 30.7mm once mounted.
I also have another wheelset with a 25mm internal width. With the same 28mm tyres on that setup, they measure 31.7mm – leaving about 5–6mm clearance on both the front and rear.
So, based on that, I’d expect a 26mm tyre to come out to around 32.7mm.
I’d be comfortable running 26mm ID wheels on the X68s, but I’m unsure about fitting 30mm tyres – 28mm would definitely fit, but in my opinion, that’s a bit narrow for a 26mm internal width rim.
Unless anyone else here is running that combo?
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I have both the 50-31 and the 60-31 wheels.
With 28mm tyres (as shown in the photos below), they measure around 30.7mm once mounted.
I also have another wheelset with a 25mm internal width. With the same 28mm tyres on that setup, they measure 31.7mm – leaving about 5–6mm clearance on both the front and rear.
So, based on that, I’d expect a 26mm tyre to come out to around 32.7mm.
I’d be comfortable running 26mm ID wheels on the X68s, but I’m unsure about fitting 30mm tyres – 28mm would definitely fit, but in my opinion, that’s a bit narrow for a 26mm internal width rim.
Unless anyone else here is running that combo?
Would the 24mm internal 31external stretch a 30mm tire beyond an X68 tire capacity?
What width spokes did you opt for, 3.8 or 5mm?
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Would the 24mm internal 31external stretch a 30mm tire beyond an X68 tire capacity?
What width spokes did you opt for, 3.8 or 5mm?
I would say that would work.
If the 28mm tyre measures 30.7mm when mounted, I’d expect the 30mm tyre to stretch to around 32.7mm, which would work fine.
I’m using 5mm spokes on the 18/18-hole hub
Additionally photo below there are in the XM thread wheels
Landed last week
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I have both the 50-31 and the 60-31 wheels.
With 28mm tyres (as shown in the photos below), they measure around 30.7mm once mounted.
I also have another wheelset with a 25mm internal width. With the same 28mm tyres on that setup, they measure 31.7mm – leaving about 5–6mm clearance on both the front and rear.
So, based on that, I’d expect a 26mm tyre to come out to around 32.7mm.
I’d be comfortable running 26mm ID wheels on the X68s, but I’m unsure about fitting 30mm tyres – 28mm would definitely fit, but in my opinion, that’s a bit narrow for a 26mm internal width rim.
Unless anyone else here is running that combo?
Really nice, how do you reckon compare the 50mm and 60mm? I am still unsure which of them to buy, I wished there would be be a 55mm haha
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Really nice, how do you reckon compare the 50mm and 60mm? I am still unsure which of them to buy, I wished there would be be a 55mm haha
you can build up a 50/55, 55/55, or a 55/60 through Zen who Sander has also purchased from and posted about.
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Really nice, how do you reckon compare the 50mm and 60mm? I am still unsure which of them to buy, I wished there would be be a 55mm haha
[/quote
PMed you as not to clog up the forum :)
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30 Corsa Controls are no issue at all on a 26 int. Lots of room. Probably room for 32's. I believe Patrick ran 32's on the 26 int wheels in his Youtube review...(gp5000s?)
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Hey all, I have some unfortunate news. After one of the last rides, the bike developed a rather audible click when pedaling out of the saddle.
I inspected almost everything on the bike and decided to try the fork. Well... when I press on the left fork (where the brake hose is), I can hear a loudish click.
There are no visible cracks or anything, not even a scratch on it, so it must be something internal.
I decided to contact Tantan before posting about it here. They responded to me the next day. They did not ask any other questions and asked me to send the video to their email.
Video of the clicking sound when pressing on the fork: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J765PYjNBo1g4itk9wbHsPzLy0kQR7P4/view?usp=drive_link
After one day, I got a response that they would arrange for the fork to be painted (10-15 days) and send it to me via DPD (another 10-15 days). I assume it will be free of charge, there was no mention of payment whatsoever. I also asked if the fork will be the same or stronger. I only got a one-word answer, "stronger" fwiw.
I wanted to share it here after I got a response from TanTan. Considering the way they responded, it's quite reasonable customer service in the end. I don't want to raise any alarms or anything else, just posting my experience.
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when my kid's frame arrives (supposedly on Monday) the first thing i will be doing is weighing the fork. hoping it will be the ~370g variety rather than the ~330g forks that a lot of the frames seem to get shipped with.
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Good they’re willing to deal with the issue but it’s not that confidence inspiring. Granted, you’re a slightly heavier but that shouldn’t happen repeatedly.
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After one day, I got a response that they would arrange for the fork to be painted (10-15 days) and send it to me via DPD (another 10-15 days). I assume it will be free of charge, there was no mention of payment whatsoever. I also asked if the fork will be the same or stronger. I only got a one-word answer, "stronger" fwiw.
I wanted to share it here after I got a response from TanTan. Considering the way they responded, it's quite reasonable customer service in the end. I don't want to raise any alarms or anything else, just posting my experience.
Happy to hear they are sending a new 'stronger' one. Im hoping the frame I just purchased is sent with the 'stronger' fork.
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Lol. This isn't how China works. Think about what each answer costs them, think about the probability that they get called out, and the probability that they get bitten in the ass if they get called out.
Now, you might as well as them to get the box blessed by the ghost of lady Diana, they could just reply "done" just as well.
You're buying clones from currently maybe the shadiest/ least reputable seller on this forum. Don't take anything at face value.
Hence the quotation marks.
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Due to limited time my built got delayed, but yesterday I got the bottom area faced.
Was definitely a must.
Got the bb cups (CEMA,for dub) installed today, spinning fine now.
However, I will push tantan to send a new fork,
My one is 332g uncut, so even lighter than advertised (390g +/- 40g) and lighter than an OEM one from Specialized (350g-390g).
The fork which snapped (see page 54) was at the same weight and also showed a QR-code and serial number, which is not present on the heavier forks which are around 395g.
TanTan stated "The heavier version is the updated and enhanced version." so they are aware of an issue or just lying about the fact that they are sourcing the fork from different suppliers.
The report on this page shows that it is a systematic failure, let's see what tantan responds.
Given all this, I would not order again.
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Last touch with decals on frame and wheels 🫡
730km so far and no issues 8)
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Any recommendations for computer mount and direct mount hanger? Mine was shipped last week so probably another week or two before I get my hands on it.
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https://www.magcad-designs.com/products/magcad-garmin-roval-rapide-moun
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJztJ7c
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I also bought a "Ali Roval" Computer mount as a precautionary measure, however, the mout which came with the frame was just fine... In my opinion no need for another one.
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Last touch with decals on frame and wheels 🫡
730km so far and no issues 8)
Oh wow 😲 Enve unreleased wheels with carbon spokes 😅
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Last touch with decals on frame and wheels 🫡
730km so far and no issues 8)
Very nice looking build. I'm going for the same look but probably with Roval wheels... just need this frame to arrive already.
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Hi guys ! Any fix for creaking noise in BB when loading
I removed the crankset, pedals, greased everything.
It worked for about 200 km. Now the creaking is coming back when pushing hard.
Do you recommend removing the BB or replacing it all ?
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Hi guys ! Any fix for creaking noise in BB when loading
I removed the crankset, pedals, greased everything.
It worked for about 200 km. Now the creaking is coming back when pushing hard.
Do you recommend removing the BB or replacing it all ?
I saw people using pipe tape, could be a solution
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I saw people using pipe tape, could be a solution
Will try that and report thanks
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Hi guys ! Any fix for creaking noise in BB when loading
I removed the crankset, pedals, greased everything.
It worked for about 200 km. Now the creaking is coming back when pushing hard.
Do you recommend removing the BB or replacing it all ?
are you certain it's coming from the BB? sometimes creaking sounds under load can actually be occurring at the saddle clamp and/or seat post clamp. what brand BB are you using - it's unusual for a decent BSA BB to be creaking.
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Hi guys ! Any fix for creaking noise in BB when loading
I removed the crankset, pedals, greased everything.
It worked for about 200 km. Now the creaking is coming back when pushing hard.
Do you recommend removing the BB or replacing it all ?
What SPDs do you use? Shimano can be noisy from the pedal body if you have had them for some time. I have serviced SPDs because of this only to find that the noise persists and end up getting new SPDs
As gbrnole mentioned, have all these areas been greased properly? If you follow the SL8 manual, there are lots of areas that need greasing that people might not necessarily do.
I would be surprised if it a BSA BB myself, but the BB should be torqued to 40Nm I don't think a lot of people will tighten to spec.
As someone else has said I have see people using plumbers PTFE tape used over the BB threads then this is greased and then installed could be good shout
Seatpost bolts: Make sure these are greased
Saddle rails: I use paste on the saddle rails - although I think they may have to be greased
Seatpost wedge: This has to be greased, and you should add carbon paste on the front and rear of the seat post before tightening the edge to 6.2nm.
Thru axles: Grease the threads and where the head goes into the frame.
What Crank are you using? If its Shimano it is generally ok but if its aftermarket say a carbon crank make sure the chain ring bolts are also greased and tighten to the righty Nm.
These noises are a pain in the ass!!
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One of the hardest to find creaks I've had was from rear quick release that was not tight enough. I was certain that it was coming from the BB
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the kid's frame arrived. uncut, painted fork weighed in at 380g so hoping that is a good sign. he's building it up with the L-Twoo eRX v3 group set so might have to trim back the seat post length a couple of inches to clear the battery. he can safely cut back about 65mm to 70mm and still be in the minimum insertion range.
first (and only real problem i've run in to looking it over) is that the cable connection plugs on the L-Twoo group set are huge compared to to Di2. any tips on finagling the cable into to chain stay?
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the kid's frame arrived. uncut, painted fork weighed in at 380g so hoping that is a good sign. he's building it up with the L-Twoo eRX v3 group set so might have to trim back the seat post length a couple of inches to clear the battery. he can safely cut back about 65mm to 70mm and still be in the minimum insertion range.
first (and only real problem i've run in to looking it over) is that the cable connection plugs on the L-Twoo group set are huge compared to to Di2. any tips on finagling the cable into to chain stay?
380g should be fine.
Is there a QR-code on the steering tube?
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380g should be fine.
Is there a QR-code on the steering tube?
no QR code on the steerer tube.
the bike is mostly built except for one MAJOR annoyance. they didn't pack the damn flat mount adapter for the fork. it's such a pain in the butt finding those in stock most anywhere. they did remember to provide the two screws though that attach it to the fork. ::)
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no QR code on the steerer tube.
the bike is mostly built except for one MAJOR annoyance. they didn't pack the damn flat mount adapter for the fork. it's such a pain in the butt finding those in stock most anywhere. they did remember to provide the two screws though that attach it to the fork. ::)
Yeah, not hard to find online though. Or just get a high zoot Chaser lightweight one ;D
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Yeah, not hard to find online though. Or just get a high zoot Chaser lightweight one ;D
immediately jumped online and my usual go to places for small specialized parts had no stock. ended up grabbing one from UC Cyclery who had limited stock (and an extortionate shipping cost). I was getting to the point where i thought we were going to have to get the titanium one.
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immediately jumped online and my usual go to places for small specialized parts had no stock. ended up grabbing one from UC Cyclery who had limited stock (and an extortionate shipping cost). I was getting to the point where i thought we were going to have to get the titanium one.
would have given mine for free, I bought the lightweight from CHASER at aliexpress which was appr. $20 incl. shipping and titanium bolts
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Messaged Vivian on Whatsapp about the fork issues - said that the fork design has been replaced with the "enhanced" version, whatever that means.
Not oblivious to the fact that I'm probably just getting fobbed off and will get what I get, but fingers crossed.
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Messaged Vivian on Whatsapp about the fork issues - said that the fork design has been replaced with the "enhanced" version, whatever that means.
Not oblivious to the fact that I'm probably just getting fobbed off and will get what I get, but fingers crossed.
I am dealing with Jessi, and she/he said forks depends on the inventory they have....
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Seems more like chinese we always tell you what you want to hear... I am dealing with vivian as well
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I was also told the current "new" versions are all heavier. Lets see...
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Fork supplier was changed in March/April, so all recent forks should be around 400g.
This is a major risk and could end in a fatality, even CN companies should act more responsible.
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Vivian has told several people this and it looks like the fork supplier was changed in March/April, so all recent forks should be around 400g.
It's extremely annoying that my fork won't be replaced without complaint, even though it's clearly too light, lighter than the minimum mentioned by tantan, has a hairline crack on the left leg and can be pushed in with the thumb.
I will take new pictures at the weekend and see what happens then.
This is a major risk and could end in a fatality, even CN companies should act more responsible.
As things stand today, I would definitely not order from tantan again, but rather from lightcarbon.
That's not good to hear!
I would see if i can break the fork myslef in that location and stick it on the bike and send a photo and get a replacment.
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I'll be narcissistic here and say I was one of the first customers to call out and address the VeloBuild c-ring issue. And VeloBuild eventually did right by customers. A big part of it was because they had/have western personnel going back to "Chris" to really highlight the importance of a new C-ring.
TanTan makes solid stuff and I hope to continue working with them on future frames. Their GR201 gravel frame is fantastic! But I think the X68 is dead.
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That was my first thought when someone on the forum shared fork weights that were lower than the original ones — which I find hard to believe, considering that 100% copy manufacturers usually don’t use the best resins or the highest-grade carbon.
And if TanTan is talking about new forks and a new supplier, it’s likely because they’ve received a significant number of complaints and reports from buyers all over the world.
I don’t think all first-generation forks are doomed to break — the components are generally overbuilt in terms of load capacity — but everything has to go right: correct carbon placement, the exact resin ratio, proper curing in the oven, a rider under 70 kg, and good-quality roads.
That said, I’ll be buying this frame next winter — but only if it comes with the heavier fork.
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Just got my photos.
Colour came out a little bit more vibrant, but still happy with it. Hopefully BB and brake areas don't have any overspray and easy to build.
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Just got my photos.
Colour came out a little bit more vibrant, but still happy with it. Hopefully BB and brake areas don't have any overspray and easy to build.
nice colors!!!
When did you order the frame?
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nice colors!!!
When did you order the frame?
Ordered on 17th of June, after a bit of back and forth on colours/sizing.
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Just got photos of my frame from Vivian! Am I worried about the forks, no not really. Im gonna put my trust in her that Im receiving the 'upgraded' forks. I will be weighing everything before building and posting weights, obviously with paint.
Also got the wheel photo from 9Velo! 50/58 with Ti freehub. I did the triple decals a la Enve bc I love the way they look when rolling.
Anyway, I went with a size 56 frame. Im 188cm tall with 91.4cm inseam. My torso is short for my height, arms are average. Im either gonna order a 120 or 130mm stem with a 36cm wide bar. My chest is a 40cm. This will be a race/group ride bike. I've got a chonky steel boi for long zone 2 rides.
I ordered the frame on 7/9/25 and got these pictures this morning.
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.
I was going 70+kmh yesterday on the bike, the last thing i want at the back of my mind then is "oh btw, is my fork going to disintegrate because it's a piece of $hit?".
<- this. Descending fast is one of my favourite things on the road bike. I’d take +100 to 200g of extra weight on a frameset any day if it means peace of mind. Plenty other ways to save weight.
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the kid's X68 mostly built. have a few bolts to swap out and new bottle cages to add. rides very nicely based solely on a quick spin to work out the kinks. the L-Twoo eRX v3 works quite nicely though not as straight forward to setup as Shimano or SRAM.
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what color is that?
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What saddle is that?
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What saddle is that?
It’s a RYET saddle.
Haven’t had the best experience with their 3d model (cadex amp ) tho.
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What saddle is that?
it's the Ryet copy of the Specialized S-Works Romin Evo Mirror. in this particular instance the 3D print is actually very good. I have an actual S-Works Romin Evo Mirror on my SL8, this Ryet copy on my gravel bike and now this one on my kid's bike too. The copy is probably 95% as good as the real thing. The only thing it really lacks are the SWAT mounting holes for accessories.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806722844182.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.33c81802Djj58c&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806722844182.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.33c81802Djj58c&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
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Read a few posts in the whole thread. Those running Ltwoo erx or er9
I wanted to go with the er9 groupset. So it's mainly the front brake calliper that won't mount? And then there is a work around to fish out the battery from the seat tube.
Looks like the rest mounts up ok. Front and rear derailleur, shifters.
Its probably then better for me to buy it all separately rather than a full kit and go with some different callipers. And if this is the case, it's getting a little closer to a shimano 105 di2 cost, seems a better option.
Many thanks for your help.
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Read a few posts in the whole thread. Those running Ltwoo erx or er9
I wanted to go with the er9 groupset. So it's mainly the front brake calliper that won't mount? And then there is a work around to fish out the battery from the seat tube.
Looks like the rest mounts up ok. Front and rear derailleur, shifters.
Its probably then better for me to buy it all separately rather than a full kit and go with some different callipers. And if this is the case, it's getting a little closer to a shimano 105 di2 cost, seems a better option.
Many thanks for your help.
If you get the 105di2 on alie with the 90usd coupon, it is basically the same price once you add chain crankset and casette
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Read a few posts in the whole thread. Those running Ltwoo erx or er9
I wanted to go with the er9 groupset. So it's mainly the front brake calliper that won't mount? And then there is a work around to fish out the battery from the seat tube.
Looks like the rest mounts up ok. Front and rear derailleur, shifters.
Its probably then better for me to buy it all separately rather than a full kit and go with some different callipers. And if this is the case, it's getting a little closer to a shimano 105 di2 cost, seems a better option.
Many thanks for your help.
if you go with L-Twoo here are the main points of contention:
1) best to source alternate calipers that are actually flat mount. the ZRace one's work fine - the brakes have to be bled anyway so you can just unscrew the hoses from the L-Twoo calipers and screw the used olive directly into the ZRace. It holds fine no leaks.
2) routing the power cables for the L-Twoo front and rear derailleurs to the battery is a MASSIVE pain in the azz. the stupid L-Twoo connectors are huge and it's a struggle getting them through the mounting holes on the frame. Be prepared to think you are going to rip the head off the cable getting it to the rear derailleur and having to fish out the internal mounting bracket for the front derailleur.
3) The group set works well when it is setup, honestly there's a few things about it that i wish Shimano would add like the ability to micro adjust each gear and the ability to do that from the levers while riding SRAM style (pushing the inner button and trimming with the outer paddles) but getting to that point of shifting and braking nirvana is not quite as straightforward as it is on Shimano and SRAM.
4) for the battery i actually used braided fishing line. put several loops around the upper neck of the battery, knotted it in place and then tied the other end on the fishing line to one of the holes in the bottom of the seat post. jammed the excess length of the fishing line up inside the seat post. that worked well.
If budget is in mind and you're not overly concerned with lightest weight or a power meter then it's hard to beat the deals available on 105 Di2. It will be a bit heavier than L-Twoo, probably net about the same cost once crankset, chain and cassette are factored but will be easier to install courtesy of the much thinner Di2 power wires. The brakes are also a bit easier to bleed than L-Twoo.
If most simple install on a budget is what you want then go hunting for SRAM. personally i would go with SRAM Rival AXS shifters and calipers, SRAM Rival AXS front derailleur, SRAM Force AXS D2 rear derailleur, SRAM Force flat top chain, SRAM Force cassette. Crankset of your choice. Alternatively get a SRAM Force AXS XPLR D2 rear derailleur if you prefer a 1x setup and grab a pair of cassettes (10/33 and 10/44) if you need to swap between flat and hilly climbing. a 46t narrow-wide chainring is a nice compromise for most on 1x but could leave you under geared if absolutely hammering or on downhill.
Also, with regard to the brakes, be aware that Tan Tan may or may not provide the flat mount bracket needed for the forks. They didn't provide it for my kid's bike and had to order one separately. They're like $8 so you might just want to grab one just in case because it's a nuisance when you want to get the build done but are stuck without that critical component. it's this adapter.
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001/p1269971 (https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-aethos-tarmac-sl8-disc-brake-adaptor-black-flat-mount-s200700001/p1269971)
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what color is that?
i think Tan Tan give it the complex name of "Red". i'll check with my kid to confirm. it was what they had readily in stock when he ordered his frame and he wasn't overly concerned about color.
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it's the Ryet copy of the Specialized S-Works Romin Evo Mirror. in this particular instance the 3D print is actually very good. I have an actual S-Works Romin Evo Mirror on my SL8, this Ryet copy on my gravel bike and now this one on my kid's bike too. The copy is probably 95% as good as the real thing. The only thing it really lacks are the SWAT mounting holes for accessories.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806722844182.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.33c81802Djj58c&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806722844182.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.33c81802Djj58c&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
95% of the same comfort? I rode my buddies Romin Evo Mirror and it was the most comfortable thing my butt has ever ridden on. If the Ryet is 95% as comfy its a great option!
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95% of the same comfort? I rode my buddies Romin Evo Mirror and it was the most comfortable thing my butt has ever ridden on. If the Ryet is 95% as comfy its a great option!
it's a good saddle. as i said, i'm using the Ryet version on my gravel bike with no qualms whatsoever. had it on that bike for a bit over a year now and it's holding up well.
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@gbrnole can you confirm which model is the Romin Evo clone in the link please? I'd like to give one a try as well.
Thanks!
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@gbrnole can you confirm which model is the Romin Evo clone in the link please? I'd like to give one a try as well.
Thanks!
it's the RT03 model
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Thanks! I picked up the Ryet Aircode, tried to find something similar to my Bontrager Aeolus.
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I don't want to read 100 pages here, but as far as I can tell, there is definitely cause for concern with this frame.
I've built several frames myself, but now I'm looking for a new road bike frame. As of now, would you recommend this one?
Are the fork issues still happening? Is it possible to purchase the frame directly from Aliexpress?
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You’re right to be cautious — and you’re not the only one asking. Here’s a full summary based on everything so far, so you don’t need to dig through 100+ pages:
⸻
🚨 Fork Issues – Yes, There’s Cause for Concern
• There has been one confirmed fork failure, with photographic evidence Page 54.
• Another user (Dovh, I believe page 97 there is a video link) reported a potential issue, though his fork didn’t fail.
• I personally bought the frame after the first report — so I was fully aware of the risk when I made my decision.
⸻
🔧 Inconsistent Forks Being Supplied
• Buyers are receiving forks with different weights — at least two versions seem to be circulating.
• Some forks are coming in around 330–350g uncut.
• My genuine SL8 fork weighed 375g uncut, and my X68 fork was 399g — possibly a reinforced version.
This variation strongly suggests different molds, construction methods, or layups are being used across batches.
⸻
🛠️ TanTan’s Acknowledgment
• TanTan has acknowledged to some buyers that they are now supplying a reinforced fork.
• That said, they haven’t officially admitted there’s any issue with the earlier forks — which isn’t surprising.
⸻
🛒 Buying Advice
• You can’t buy the frame from Aliexpress
• You can still order via TanTan’s website or by contacting them through WhatsApp.
• If you do:
• Mention that you’ve read about the fork issues
• Request the reinforced version
• And pay via PayPal Goods & Services or credit card for buyer protection
⸻
Should You Buy It?
Ultimately, that’s a decision you have to make for yourself.
The level of risk someone is willing to accept varies. A fork failure is serious, no question. But considering how popular this frame has been since October 2024, and how many are likely out there, the number of publicly reported failures seems very low.
That said, no frame is truly risk-free — branded or not. Yes, we expect major brands to have tighter QC and more consistent testing — and often they do — but failures still happen. You just don’t hear about them as often because they’re handled quietly. I suspect they happen more than we realise.
Personally, I inspect all my bikes and components regularly, whether they’re branded or open-mold. Carbon is carbon — and everything from forks to bars to wheels is safety-critical.
⸻
Bigger Picture: The Industry
It’s worth noting that there have been calls for more regulation and transparency across the bike industry. Every carbon part on a bike — not just forks — is safety-critical. Testing like ISO 4210 exists, but there’s no universal enforcement or third-party certification standard that’s consistently applied across all manufacturers, especially in the open-mold space.
Until that changes, it’s up to us as riders to stay informed, ask the right questions, and inspect our gear regularly — no matter what logo is on it.
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Good summary. However, my fork has no issues, and was "early" production (March). I've even pushed it hard on mixed surfaces without issue. But I'm only 60kg.
There has been one know failure, and one fork by another user that has a compressible area near the brake hose exit (tantan is replacing that fork).
I would agree that the risk is probably slightly greater than with a name brand bike, but not an order of magnitude greater.
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Good summary. However, my fork has no issues, and was "early" production (March). I've even pushed it hard on mixed surfaces without issue. But I'm only 60kg.
There has been one know failure, and one fork by another user that has a compressible area near the brake hose exit (tantan is replacing that fork).
I would agree that the risk is probably slightly greater than with a name brand bike, but not an order of magnitude greater.
Updated 😂 and corrected
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Great summary Sander!
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A really great summary, thank you. In the last 10 years, apart from one original SL7, I've only had Chinese frames, whether MTB, two gravel frames, and two road bike frames, one of which was also from TanTan. I'm fully aware of the general risks and the special cases that can arise during assembly. I was just specifically interested in this model; I'll ask how they solved the fork issue... Thanks a million.
One more question, since you ride both frames, the original and the TanTan. How does the frame perform at very high speeds? My old TanTan frame became very unstable at 65+ compared to the Specialized. I didn't really feel comfortable on descents.
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the kid's X68 mostly built. have a few bolts to swap out and new bottle cages to add. rides very nicely based solely on a quick spin to work out the kinks. the L-Twoo eRX v3 works quite nicely though not as straight forward to setup as Shimano or SRAM.
Are the decals under the clearcoat?
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A really great summary, thank you. In the last 10 years, apart from one original SL7, I've only had Chinese frames, whether MTB, two gravel frames, and two road bike frames, one of which was also from TanTan. I'm fully aware of the general risks and the special cases that can arise during assembly. I was just specifically interested in this model; I'll ask how they solved the fork issue... Thanks a million.
One more question, since you ride both frames, the original and the TanTan. How does the frame perform at very high speeds? My old TanTan frame became very unstable at 65+ compared to the Specialized. I didn't really feel comfortable on descents.
Thanks guys!
It’ll be interesting to see what they come back with regarding the fork change.
As for high-speed performance — the frame feels the same to me. No difference at all, and honestly I wouldn’t expect one, since the X68 is 99% identical to the original. The only real difference I’ve noted is that the genuine frame has a slightly more refined, smoother ride feel — which is probably down to the layup. The shape might be nearly identical, but the carbon layup process is where things start to diverge.
That skinny seatpost definitely helps with comfort, too. It’s not a heavy or ultra-stiff aero frame, so it’s inherently pretty compliant.
Anyway, Patrick says the X68 is dead 😂
The X68 is dead! Long live the X68! 😂
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All forks with QR code on the steerer tube running around 340g are at risk.
3 forks are reported so far, tantan changed the supplier for the fork for a reason!
The new forks are not only heavier at 400g but also have different thread inserts etc.
Right now I'm still discussing to get a fork replaced, disgusting
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The X68 is dead! Long live the X68! 😂
Sorry, there's one more question I have in mind before really getting into it. What about the front end (headset, spacer, etc.) - is there everything similiar to the genuine one? Maybe I would go with an original bar/stem and a better headset. Do you know if everything fits?
Have a nice weekend,
thx
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If someone has crackles in the Botom Bracket, I have used Tefon on my thread and the cracks have disappeared.
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200k in, loving it
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kid took his bike out for 80k yesterday. it rode wonderfully.
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Sorry, there's one more question I have in mind before really getting into it. What about the front end (headset, spacer, etc.) - is there everything similiar to the genuine one? Maybe I would go with an original bar/stem and a better headset. Do you know if everything fits?
Have a nice weekend,
thx
Yes, everything fits.
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is it necessary to change the Steering Header Caps and Cockpit Spacers with original one (S222500010) or the one provided are good enough?
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is it necessary to change the Steering Header Caps and Cockpit Spacers with original one (S222500010) or the one provided are good enough?
I changed for the genuine ones for aesthetic and fitment with the bars nothing more as I though they would work better as there was a gap compared to my genuine bars.
Hopefully fitting a new set of bars to the X68 this week
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I changed for the genuine ones for aesthetic and fitment with the bars nothing more as I though they would work better as there was a gap compared to my genuine bars.
Hopefully fitting a new set of bars to the X68 this week
thanks for the feedback, looks good with the original one.
Which handlebar will you install on it? the one provided is not good?
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is it necessary to change the Steering Header Caps and Cockpit Spacers with original one (S222500010) or the one provided are good enough?
The ones provided are fine, the cap might require some sanding on the bottom side where it contacts the headtube as it may rub a bit and wear the paint. Just put some 180 sandpaper under it and move it around to clean it up.
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thanks for the feedback, looks good with the original one.
Which handlebar will you install on it? the one provided is not good?
Like Glepore said the one provided are fine.
I have decided to size up from 110cm back to 120cm and will be trying out another bar instead
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My bike is mostly built and ready to hit the road. Probably will try a short ride this week.
I believe I'm one of the few with a 58 frame and also a heavier rider 90-100kg (depending if im in/off season). Roads here are also shit for a G7 country.
Frame/fork will be tested... will report back...
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Like Glepore said the one provided are fine.
I have decided to size up from 110cm back to 120cm and will be trying out another bar instead
the bars provided are actually the one thing that, in the case of my kid's bike at least, had a couple of slight differences from the actual Rapide cockpit. the first and obvious difference being the lack of dimples on the bar top but the more noticeable difference (to me) was the drops of the bars have a slightly altered bend.
there's a slight gradual slope to the end caps on the Tan Tan bar vs what feels to be a more flat section on the Rapide. visually it's very minimal from a distance and you can only really notice it when the bikes are side by side, or in my case, muscle memory from chewing the stem on the real thing.
p.s. i had no problem with the transition cap rubbing on my kid's frame. it definitely a snug fit between the back of it and the top of the top tube but had no rub. not sure if we got lucky of if they had made some manufacturing adjustments? it's an easy fix regardless.
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The latest releases of the Rapide Cockpit lack the dimples. Sander and I went around on this many many pages back.
Just checked my fork, it is indeed the early version with the inserts that lack the inner flange etc. Its been robust so far, but will keep an eye on it.
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https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html
I feel stupid for asking but is this a single bearing or the upper and bottom both? Went through the page with translator and came out none the wiser.
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Do you guys have any idea how to get the heavier fork from the start?
Jessi tells me that they sell the frame with whichever fork they have in inventory, so there is no way to tell which one you are getting…
Which I find a little bewildering - I should know what am buying, no?
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Do you guys have any idea how to get the heavier fork from the start?
Jessi tells me that they sell the frame with whichever fork they have in inventory, so there is no way to tell which one you are getting…
Which I find a little bewildering - I should know what am buying, no?
Vivian has responded to someone I know who’s buying a frame today. I had mentioned the fork issue to him, and he sent me a screenshot of her reply, which simply said:
“Our fork is an enhanced version. Thank you.”
I would push for more clarity. You could say that you're active on Chinertown—one of the largest cycling forums—and that there have been reported failures and other issues with forks purchased from TanTan, particularly the lighter models. You’re aware that an enhanced version is now being sold, so it’s important to confirm that this is the version being supplied, and ideally get that confirmation in writing.
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I feel stupid for asking but is this a single bearing or the upper and bottom both? Went through the page with translator and came out none the wiser.
Single
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Tantan doesn't make the frame, it's a money grab. they lean on their name recognition to sell someone else's work. They sell so many frames that it seems evident they give 0 F about selling garbage / the occasional piece of garbage.
So it's not so much that you should know what you're buying, it's that they dont care to know what they're selling.
The real question being: should you buy from them in the 1st place?
I agree but there’s enough information in this 102-page thread for people to make their own decisions—everyone’s risk perception is different. For me, this frame has definitely been a punt, but so far it’s been fine. Only time will tell!
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the bars provided are actually the one thing that, in the case of my kid's bike at least, had a couple of slight differences from the actual Rapide cockpit. the first and obvious difference being the lack of dimples on the bar top but the more noticeable difference (to me) was the drops of the bars have a slightly altered bend.
there's a slight gradual slope to the end caps on the Tan Tan bar vs what feels to be a more flat section on the Rapide. visually it's very minimal from a distance and you can only really notice it when the bikes are side by side, or in my case, muscle memory from chewing the stem on the real thing.
p.s. i had no problem with the transition cap rubbing on my kid's frame. it definitely a snug fit between the back of it and the top of the top tube but had no rub. not sure if we got lucky of if they had made some manufacturing adjustments? it's an easy fix regardless.
I had the issue with the back of the spacers to had to get some 320grit and sand them down. However now I have changed the bars I now have the issue on the front so some more sanding again ;D
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My frame was shipped today. I ask again to confirm for the "new & heavier" fork, which was confirmed.
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Hi everyone! 😊
Does anyone happen to know which Pantone color code comes closest to the S-Works white paint?
I'd also really appreciate any photos or feedback on a painted Seraph frame in a similar shade.
Thanks a lot in advance for your help! 🙌
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I had the issue with the back of the spacers to had to get some 320grit and sand them down. However now I have changed the bars I now have the issue on the front so some more sanding again ;D
Moved the bars over from the real sl8?
Those THM's look great.
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Moved the bars over from the real sl8?
Those THM's look great.
Hey Glepore.
Thanks the THMs are a great set of bars light and stiff.
Sold the Rapides and have fitted a pair of ahem 😂 Darimos 😉.
Gone back to 120mm stem these are 380mm
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LOL. Worth more than the frame.
Kidding aside, I hope they work out for you. I suspect they've sorted their issues, sort of like tantan and the forks... ;)
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received the message that frames are painted but they are missing 1 bar, so I have to wait the next batch to get it.
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are you certain it's coming from the BB? sometimes creaking sounds under load can actually be occurring at the saddle clamp and/or seat post clamp. what brand BB are you using - it's unusual for a decent BSA BB to be creaking.
Found the problem : small play in the left arm of the crankset
Had to torque the 2 bolts and this is way better
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Hi guys!
I am going to buy this frame. Can you please tell me from which site you order the frame to be painted in the original sl8 colors?
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1160
Or
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html
Thanks!
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Hi guys!
I am going to buy this frame. Can you please tell me from which site you order the frame to be painted in the original sl8 colors?
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1160
Or
https://www.seraphbikes.com/Superlight-Disc-Road-Bike-Frame-TT-X68-BSA-Bottom-Bracket-Max-Tire-70028C-With-Integrated-Handlebar-p5836624.html
Thanks!
From none of this two.
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From none of this two.
What site do you order the X68 frame from? Please share the link.
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What site do you order the X68 frame from? Please share the link.
This site
https://www.tantanbicycles.com/
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Received my new fork today. Significant difference in weights uncut (416g to 343g before), but it also just feels significantly more solid.
I'll keep you posted.
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Received my new fork today. Significant difference in weights uncut (416g to 343g before), but it also just feels significantly more solid.
I'll keep you posted.
Ok significantly reinforced!
That’s 40g heavier than the real thing so not silly buy any means.
How long did it take to receive the forks?
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Received my new fork today. Significant difference in weights uncut (416g to 343g before), but it also just feels significantly more solid.
I'll keep you posted.
that's about the weight my kid's fork was. i forgot to weigh it uncut but final weight was 382g cut for a size 56 frame with 20mm spacers.
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Strange turn of events for myself...
TanTan contacted me last night about working together to do another frame review after the success of the GR201. For a multitude of reasons TanTan and I decided to go with the X70 over the X68.
It's basically the same frame as the X68/SL8. Except no butt sniffer, different (hopefully heavier) fork, and UDH. Same seatpost, BSA BB, overall design and geometry. To me this makes A LOT more sense to promote without the inherent stigma. I actually sold my Tarmac SL8 frameset last week so I literally can just use the same components.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1195
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Strange turn of events for myself...
TanTan contacted me last night about working together to do another frame review after the success of the GR201. For a multitude of reasons TanTan and I decided to go with the X70 over the X68.
It's basically the same frame as the X68/SL8. Except no butt sniffer, different (hopefully heavier) fork, and UDH. Same seatpost, BSA BB, overall design and geometry. To me this makes A LOT more sense to promote without the inherent stigma. I actually sold my Tarmac SL8 frameset last week so I literally can just use the same components.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1195
Good to hear, Patrick.
Maybe they’re looking to strengthen their brand image and promote it more positively, which wouldn’t be a bad move considering the mixed reviews TanTan tends to get here.
Personally, my experience so far has been positive.
I’ve been told the fork issue has now been resolved, with the new fork structure having been optimized.
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My bike is mostly built and ready to hit the road. Probably will try a short ride this week.
I believe I'm one of the few with a 58 frame and also a heavier rider 90-100kg (depending if im in/off season). Roads here are also shit for a G7 country.
Frame/fork will be tested... will report back...
So I'm about 200 miles in. Mostly flats with the occasional 7-10% climbs/descents. Frame appears to be holding well. Quite nimble and responsive. Bike gets shaky on descents around 50km/h (31mi/h) - Could also be due to the fact that I dont have much experience at that speed. The bottle cages that came with the bike are quite flimsy and I have to screw them again every 2 rides or so. It appears the vibration during rides are unscrewing them.
As a weekend warrior, I have yet to be passed by other solo riders... take that as you want regarding the frame or the rider...
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A bike getting shaky at 50kmh is a major red flag.
Are your wheels balanced, are you tyres mounted on properly?
If it's not that, but because of the frame, then I'd be crying.
For screws that loosen like bottle cage ones, use loctite. Loctite goes there, as well as on chaining bolts, and depending on your crankset, on crank arm bolts. And on derailleur bolts. And on garmin mount bolts.
Without belittling the boy, the problem must be that he gets nervous at high speed. I have made descents to 80km/h and only once he trembled, in a high-speed stretch covered by a rock wall, on that descent the wall disappeared and a cannon was formed, with lateral air.
By the way, I don't know if it has happened to more people, but it is the fastest bike I have ever used, I have managed to overcome my friend for the first time on descents, he weighs 20kg more than me
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Size 58 matte black weights: frame 869g with hanger and front derailleur plate, fork 392g has no QR stickers or stickers of any kind, 110/380 cockpit 338g, seatpost with mounting hardware 186g.
Looks and feels fine apart from rear brake mounts that do not appear to be faced at all and BB threads that look rather rough but to finger feel ok. Computer mount is outright ugly.
Going to take a while until I get all the parts for the build.
Planning on running 32mm S TR on 26i rims, anyone tried 32mm? Most posts I have read have been with 30mm.
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waiting for my frame as well, planing on using the gp5000 s tr in 32, on the spe website it is written that you can fit up to 32c so should be ok
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A bike getting shaky at 50kmh is a major red flag.
Are your wheels balanced, are you tyres mounted on properly?
If it's not that, but because of the frame, then i'd be crying.
A fair number of folks have commented on other forums that actual sl8's are prone to high speed instability descending. Others say its very stable. My x68 has been rock solid 60kph. Suspect that the instability is due to either the factors you mention or something to do with fit and weight distribution being too rearward. Some folks running stems too short to compensate for the low stack.
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I've been waiting for my frame for 6 weeks now, and it hasn't even shipped yet.
I'm not sure if the delay is due to the custom paint job (it's the transparent red one).
Has anyone else experienced such a long wait?
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Strange turn of events for myself...
TanTan contacted me last night about working together to do another frame review after the success of the GR201. For a multitude of reasons TanTan and I decided to go with the X70 over the X68.
It's basically the same frame as the X68/SL8. Except no butt sniffer, different (hopefully heavier) fork, and UDH. Same seatpost, BSA BB, overall design and geometry. To me this makes A LOT more sense to promote without the inherent stigma. I actually sold my Tarmac SL8 frameset last week so I literally can just use the same components.
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1195
I'd add: identical to the Spcycle R088 frame.
It would be interesting to hear their version of this "similarity".... ;)
https://www.sp-cycle.com/Spcycle-2025-New-R088-Carbon-Road-Bike-Frame-Disc-Brake-Full-Hidden-Cable-UDH-Hanger-Lightweight-Road-Bicycle-Frameset-p6081415.html?srsltid=AfmBOorXYp_c_-LTYgqwpKhJLjC0LiRen3gnyenH-nuOAZPjsrPpsdMd
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I changed for the genuine ones for aesthetic and fitment with the bars nothing more as I though they would work better as there was a gap compared to my genuine bars.
Hopefully fitting a new set of bars to the X68 this week
Are the original spacers "closed" or can they be "opened"?
I ordered an Elita One SL8 handlebar for my Spcycle R088, but the spacers are closed... :(
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008651097337.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.63.61343696RqF24T&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
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I've been waiting for my frame for 6 weeks now, and it hasn't even shipped yet.
I'm not sure if the delay is due to the custom paint job (it's the transparent red one).
Has anyone else experienced such a long wait?
Yeah, I was almost 90 days earlier in the year with pretty normal paint. They can get pretty behind depending on volume, and paint seems to be the bottleneck.
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My 2 frames were painted in 30days, but one of the handlebar size is missing, I need 400mm but for the moment they don't have it in stock, so I need to wait for the next batch in couple of days.
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Are the original spacers "closed" or can they be "opened"?
I ordered an Elita One SL8 handlebar for my Spcycle R088, but the spacers are closed... :(
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008651097337.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.63.61343696RqF24T&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
They open.
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Patrick, congrats on the sale. You wrote a while back why you were planning to sell your SL8. I also remember shortly after you got it reading that you thought it was almost a magical frame with crazy free speed gains. Point being: your ownership of this frame has followed a very interesting arc.
For posterity, do you want to recap why you ended up selling it?
I just finished up a weekend of crit racing. Did two of the 10 days/stages of Chicago Grit. Last night's finale was the "Cat 5 Championship" race which is a rather hilarious title. Tough race (95°F/35°C) but I finished with the lead pack after they pulled the other 45 riders with 7 laps to go.
Buy whatever inspires you to play bikes more often. Spend as much or as little. One man's purchasing decision isn't more virtuous than the next. I say all of this because the Tarmac SL8 is a fantastic bike and I understand why it's so popular. There are marginal gains to be had when it comes to speed, climbing ability, and crosswind stability. Key word being marginal.
For myself however, the SL8 doesn't fit my needs beyond being a benchmark to review other bikes. It was the most requested frame by the viewers in late 2023, early 2024.
Getting back to racing this year has reshaped my opinion of what's important in a bike as an entire system. Bike frames do not live in a vacuum. Wheels, tires, optimal bike fit/position, fitness, and overall bike skills in general play a HUGE role. Mainstream bikes are pretty much dead in my opinion. That is if you are a consumer paying full retail price. The Chinese have finally caught up to make using them for racing 100% viable. Brands like Tavelo, Yoeleo, Yishun, (old) Winspace, and any of the legit OEM brands like Longteng will get the job done for 99% of consumers/racers. I even question how brands like Evolve with their CIMA frame can justify $2800. That's Giant Propel money without any dealer or distribution support. Of course I REALLY wanna review CIMA if the opportunity arises. I'm currently working on getting Quick Pro's latest aero frame.
I absolutely LOVE my Tavelo Arow. It's really just a $700-$800 as we all know by now. I've met racers using TanTan X68s. And now that I have the opportunity to test an X68 myself, I'm sure it will ride 85% that of a SL8. Assuming no factory defects.
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Buy whatever inspires you to play bikes more often. Spend as much or as little. One man's purchasing decision isn't more virtuous than the next. I say all of this because the Tarmac SL8 is a fantastic bike and I understand why it's so popular. There are marginal gains to be had when it comes to speed, climbing ability, and crosswind stability. Key word being marginal.
Generally, I'm a fan of your work, and I understand that working with them is a business decision. However, I think there is enough evidence in this thread to support the idea that working as an influencer to legitimize Tan Tan is anything but virtuous. In addition to the SL8, they seem to be moving towards selling more fakes (like the SSE copy). I understand why people want to buy them and ride them, unless it's badged as a Specialized, I won't make a fuss over them. But I don't know how you can say that it's "just as virtuous."
This is a company that lies to its customers, can't keep a timeline, ships forks that snap (2 in the small sample size on this forum is alarming!), and then gaslights customers. Perhaps it's my bias showing, but SP Cycles' story of Tan Tan buying frames from them to clone them seems wild, until you read this thread. You threw Yoeleo under the nearest passing bus for less.
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So I'm about 200 miles in. Mostly flats with the occasional 7-10% climbs/descents. Frame appears to be holding well. Quite nimble and responsive. Bike gets shaky on descents around 50km/h (31mi/h) - Could also be due to the fact that I dont have much experience at that speed. The bottle cages that came with the bike are quite flimsy and I have to screw them again every 2 rides or so. It appears the vibration during rides are unscrewing them.
As a weekend warrior, I have yet to be passed by other solo riders... take that as you want regarding the frame or the rider...
I would check your headset preload. Anecdotally 90% of the time this is it. Turn handlebar 90 degrees and rock the bike gently forward (perpendicular to the wheel) while holding the front brake. If there is any play, you need to increase the preload until you can't feel or see movement.
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So I'm about 200 miles in. Mostly flats with the occasional 7-10% climbs/descents. Frame appears to be holding well. Quite nimble and responsive. Bike gets shaky on descents around 50km/h (31mi/h) - Could also be due to the fact that I dont have much experience at that speed. The bottle cages that came with the bike are quite flimsy and I have to screw them again every 2 rides or so. It appears the vibration during rides are unscrewing them.
As a weekend warrior, I have yet to be passed by other solo riders... take that as you want regarding the frame or the rider...
Does the shaking on descents lessen or go away if you grip the top tube with your knees?
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However, I think there is enough evidence in this thread to support the idea that working as an influencer to legitimize Tan Tan is anything but virtuous.
You are probably right. I had not thought of it that way to be honest. Now you make me wonder they have a change of heart, because months ago they said they didn't wanna promote the X68.
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Generally, I'm a fan of your work, and I understand that working with them is a business decision. However, I think there is enough evidence in this thread to support the idea that working as an influencer to legitimize Tan Tan is anything but virtuous. In addition to the SL8, they seem to be moving towards selling more fakes (like the SSE copy). I understand why people want to buy them and ride them, unless it's badged as a Specialized, I won't make a fuss over them. But I don't know how you can say that it's "just as virtuous."
This is a company that lies to its customers, can't keep a timeline, ships forks that snap (2 in the small sample size on this forum is alarming!), and then gaslights customers. Perhaps it's my bias showing, but SP Cycles' story of Tan Tan buying frames from them to clone them seems wild, until you read this thread. You threw Yoeleo under the nearest passing bus for less.
Plus I’d imagine them only sending out proper QCd framesets for reviewing purposes.
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You are probably right. I had not thought of it that way to be honest. Now you make me wonder they have a change of heart, because months ago they said they didn't wanna promote the X68.
I am confused; they want you to promote the x70 or the x68?
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Received my frame today. Paint job looks good, a bit of misalignment near the brake screw holes, but bottom bracket looks good.
Frame weight 880g
Fork weight 420g
Not the lightest, but in their weight tolerances (or just over). Good that the fork is the "heavier" option - no QR code, no flex in it.
Ran the endoscope through the frame, was really hard to see but looks okay I think bar two things:
In the top-tube, where the head tube meets the top tube, there's bit of the latex mould. ChatGPT says that this isn't an issue.
Also near the rear brake mount, seems like epoxy or loose fibres :| If epoxy then should be okay?
The rest seems okay, fairly smooth inside.
Tried cutting the steerer tube today, can't really get the cuts super level - how important is this? Might just take it to a shop to get it done. About a <1mm difference across the circumference. Good thing I practised twice with the upper parts of the steerer.
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Made a few changes:
• Removed the purple decals — I was never 100% on them, so I’ve gone for a more stealthy look.
• Swapped in a new handlebar: 380x120mm, instead of the originally ordered 380x110mm.
• The bars were ordered from RK, but unfortunately one of the stem bolt heads snapped (and I haven’t even ridden them yet — just been faffing about).
They’re aluminium, which I usually avoid for bolts on my bikes for exactly this reason. I’ve let RK know, and he’s kindly offered to send replacements, which is great.
That said, I’ve gone ahead and ordered two titanium bolts and will just apply anti-seize when fitting them.
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it's turned into a lovely build. can't complain with 6.3kg when you're running proper deep wheels!
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Made a few changes:
• Removed the purple decals — I was never 100% on them, so I’ve gone for a more stealthy look.
• Swapped in a new handlebar: 380x120mm, instead of the originally ordered 380x110mm.
• The bars were ordered from RK, but unfortunately one of the stem bolt heads snapped (and I haven’t even ridden them yet — just been faffing about).
They’re aluminium, which I usually avoid for bolts on my bikes for exactly this reason. I’ve let RK know, and he’s kindly offered to send replacements, which is great.
That said, I’ve gone ahead and ordered two titanium bolts and will just apply anti-seize when fitting them.
Cracking bike/build. Each to their own but I do prefer the stealthier look you've got now!
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The stem bolts snapped at 5nm when you were just installing them? That's absolutely wild to me. I'd count yourself very lucky they didn't snap whilst you were riding dude.
If you know the seller (and I know you're a caring kinda guy but whether the seller cares or not... actually, they probaly don't give a $hit), I'd strongly get them to consider shipping the cockpit with steel screws as someone could really get hurt.
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The stem bolts snapped at 5nm when you were just installing them? That's absolutely wild to me. I'd count yourself very lucky they didn't snap whilst you were riding dude.
If you know the seller (and I know you're a caring kinda guy but whether the seller cares or not... actually, they probaly don't give a $hit), I'd strongly get them to consider shipping the cockpit with steel screws as someone could really get hurt.
Yeah, I’ve taken the bolts on and off a few times while messing around with the install. Like I said, they’re aluminium — and in my opinion, aluminium bolts are pretty rubbish. It’s not really an excuse, but also not a surprise. I’m just glad it failed during installation and not out on the road.
The seller was RK Ultra Extreme on AliExpress (also goes by Mirror Carbonfibre Store). I messaged him on WhatsApp and he said he’d send replacements, which is fair enough. But I told him I’ve already ordered some titanium bolts and strongly suggested he switch to either steel or Ti going forward.
It’s been a rough week actually :( plus I’m Ill 🤧 — the thread on my Ultegra rear brake caliper also stripped while I was adjusting the brakes this happened the same day so was pissed >:(
I was torquing it to 7Nm (spec is 6–8Nm) and suddenly there was a pop. The thread from inside the frame came out wrapped around the bolt. No idea how that happened — maybe it was cross-threaded from the start.
Ordered a replacement but will try and warranty itv with Shimano next week.
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Guys, I'm interested on this x68 frame. Where can I buy it? Because I saw people buying it from www.tantanbicycles.com, others from http://tantancycling.com and even from http://seraphbikes.com
What is the "oficial store"? Also where can I talk with them to ask for a frame with the upgraded fork?
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All those URL's are the same business. Seraph sells frames/bikes with that logo, tantan doesn't logo.
You can contact via email or wechat and ask about the fork. Suspect they're all "upgraded" now.
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Thanks :D Will contact them via WhatsApp and buy one frame. I have a size 56 SL8 copy frame that I bought on Aliexpress but it's small for me. I really liked the geometry of the frame and that's why I have interest on this x68 because for me, the logos really doesn't matter.
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Does this frame flex as much (and as easily!) as the one in this video: https://youtu.be/CRI0uWVYNcA?si=SumWtRQYGRhXQxY8
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my completely 100% reliably scientific foot on the pedal flex test of my kid's X68 vs my SL8 results in his X68 having a hair more deflection but his is a 56 vs mine being a 54. it's definitely nothing like that janky fake Madone he had in a prior vid.
i'll say this much about the X68, i'd rather ride it over my Gen 6 Madone SLR. the kid's X68 does have the heavier fork.
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I am 192cm tall. It looks like (based on tarmac sl8 size chart) that 58 frame size is small for me. Does it mean that x68 is not for me due to not available 61 frame size?
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I am 192cm tall. It looks like (based on tarmac sl8 size chart) that 58 frame size is small for me. Does it mean that x68 is not for me due to not available 61 frame size?
You need to look for something different and probably something outside Chinese OEMs.
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You need to look for something different and probably something outside Chinese OEMs.
Thanks, I thought so. My thinking at the moment is to spend a little bit more and go with Elves Vanyar Pro frame.
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Does this frame flex as much (and as easily!) as the one in this video: https://youtu.be/CRI0uWVYNcA?si=SumWtRQYGRhXQxY8
[/
It’s a YouTube video—they’re chasing views.
The frame isn’t actually that flexible.
When you push the crank by hand or press the pedal with your foot, it’s the wheel and seat stays that flex—not the bottom bracket.
Proper BB stiffness really needs to be measured on a jig
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Yeah it's a crap vid/channel in any case. Super cringe stuff. I assume he's on a YoHo bike in that video too.
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Yeah it's a crap vid/channel in any case. Super cringe stuff. I assume he's on a YoHo bike in that video too.
You're right...one of the worst comparisons I've ever seen.
It's hard to believe anyone would take these "reviews" as reliable...or at least I hope so.
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Yeah it's a crap vid/channel in any case. Super cringe stuff. I assume he's on a YoHo bike in that video too.
Hey Justin I'm not saying anything about the channel 😄😄
Who knows where he got it from—maybe AliExpress? The thing is, no one really knows who's making these frames, but it seems like more than one factory is copying the design, which is very likely.
So, each one is probably assembling the bike a bit differently.
But for £600 GBP, you can’t expect it to be on par with the original. That said, the differences aren’t as massive as they used to be—counterfeits are getting a lot more sophisticated.
If anyone here is into watches, it’s the same story with the super clone Rolexes coming out of China. From the outside, they’re almost identical—same materials, same finishing. People now need loupes and even have to open the casebacks to tell the difference. They even come with boxes, warranty cards, the whole lot.
Bikes are clearly heading in the same direction. So frame manufacturers are going to have to step up their game to stay ahead.
There’s even that YouTube video about the counterfeit Trek frame—Trek themselves said it was real!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6_rWCr7lnU
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You need to look for something different and probably something outside Chinese OEMs.
You might want to have a look at Tavelo or Speeder SC-R55D.
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Bike built! Haven't ridden it yet though - weather has been a bit crap. Given it was my first bike build, went okay - took a few nights in total. Managed to cut the steerer properly, pretty flat in the end - not sure if I'll cut it myself after the fit.
Brake hoses were surprisingly straight-forward to get through the frame + handlebars with the internal routing tool. Di2 was actually harder given how floppy the cables are (my routing tool didn't come with the Di2 attachment, doh). The brake calipers also came pre-bled, and it doesn't seem like they need a bleed/any adjustment - also happily surprised.
Got a bit of brake rub on the rear wheel - might be the rotor that's a bit warped though.
7.44kg inc. cages, Garmin mount + Varia mount, Garmin Rally RS200 pedals
Ultegra Di2 12s, 52-36t chainrings, 11-34t cassette - all standard Shimano stuff, nothing fancy. Did swap out for a direct mount for the RD though.
Using Elite Drive 50D wheels, 32mm GP5000 clincher, RideNow TPU tubes
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Does this frame flex as much (and as easily!) as the one in this video: https://youtu.be/CRI0uWVYNcA?si=SumWtRQYGRhXQxY8
Very superficial video.
If they wanted to do a proper test, they should have at least set up the frames with the same wheels and drivetrain.
I asked TanTan if there have been any updates regarding the forks, considering that some forums have reported documented failures…
This was their response:
Total weight: 438 g, including uncut steerer tube (-30 g?) and paint (-20 g?).
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Axle ist appr. 30g, so fork appr. 400g, should be fine
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Many are now aware of the TT-X68 fork issues. The original forks from the early batches weighed around 330g uncut, and there’s been one confirmed failure, plus two other cases with reported issues. TanTan has since responded by replacing the forks, and the updated version now weighs around 400g.
This might set the cat amongst the pigeons, but just to be clear—heavier carbon doesn’t automatically mean stronger or better, as many here will already know.
What really matters is how the fork is engineered, especially the layup and construction quality. A well-designed fork can be light and strong; a poorly made one can be heavy and still fail. Not trying to upset anyone—just stating facts.
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Many are now aware of the TT-X68 fork issues. The original forks from the early batches weighed around 330g uncut, and there’s been one confirmed failure, plus two other cases with reported issues. TanTan has since responded by replacing the forks, and the updated version now weighs around 400g.
This might set the cat amongst the pigeons, but just to be clear—heavier carbon doesn’t automatically mean stronger or better, as many here will already know.
What really matters is how the fork is engineered, especially the layup and construction quality. A well-designed fork can be light and strong; a poorly made one can be heavy and still fail. Not trying to upset anyone—just stating facts.
Yeah, was about to mention that additional carbon doesn't mean much if its not properly compacted and cured. But is suspect this is a belt/suspenders approach, both more carbon and hopefully better q/c.
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Quick q for those who have the frame -
The front wheel thru-axle - is the gold conical washer supposed to be in the fork, or on the thru-axle? For my rear wheel, the washer is stuck on the frame (or at least I can't seem to get it out - haven't tried really hard though). Pics attached.
Bit annoying, I've dropped the washer a couple of times when I've pulled the thru-axle out, I know there's a spare one in the little pack of accessories but still.
Also, are the thru-axles the same as the normal Specialized ones/any ones compatible with the SL8? My rear thru axle I've already started to round it :facepalm: - should never use the ball hex wrenches.
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They should stay on the t/a but I have one (non tantan) stuck in fork and its fine. They are identical to Specialized's thru axle for the sl8.
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That gold washer is impossible to separate from the original Specialized thru-axles. Don't ask me why, but I've tried!
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So had the same issue when I had the frame delivered had to get the rear washer out of the back as it got stuck.
Anyway got the new bars with 120cm fitted to the – been so busy lately!
So swapped the SPDs and fitted the new XM Carbon chainrings (same as the Pass Quest 53-39T)… mostly for the bling factor 😎
Things always seem to take longer than you expect when you’re an amateur mechanic at best. I was never keen on the purple, so I’ve gone full stealth black. Meant to add a sprinkle of gold in the speed decals, but they didn’t quite match what I had in mind – it’s always hit or miss with that sort of thing unless you can send a physical sample.
Had a spin this evening – front caliper still needs a bit of fine-tuning, but otherwise, everything’s appears to be running sweet!
Just need to shake this cold off 🤧 now so I can get out for a shake down next week hopefully!
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I'm a huge fan of clear over carbon. 8) Chainrings and crank look great too!
I've been so tempted to buy some Darimo bars for the weight savings, but looks are pretty damn important to me and I absolutely hate that they're angled up SO much!
Look at the bar ends, they're nowhere near perpendicular to the ground which would mean I'd have to run my hoods extra forward on the bars to get them right, in essence extending my reach.
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I'm a huge fan of clear over carbon. 8) Chainrings and crank look great too!
I've been so tempted to buy some Darimo bars for the weight savings, but looks are pretty damn important to me and I absolutely hate that they're angled up SO much!
Look at the bar ends, they're nowhere near perpendicular to the ground which would mean I'd have to run my hoods extra forward on the bars to get them right, in essence extending my reach.
I know what you meann
Obviously you could have taken a better photo 😂.
I will photos the bars from another angle straight on and see how they look might no look so pronounced upwards
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Here's an update on the fork: I received a new fork from TanTan in the mail today. All seems good, and the new fork is definitely heavier than the previous one. It is 401g uncut.
This new fork was not painted that well compared to the original one. There is quite a lot of overspray on the brake mounts, and they painted the inside of the thru axle, which was not painted on the original fork. But it's not a big deal i guess I can just sand it down.
also the old one had like a metal insert on the end where you screw in the thru axle and this one does not have it. (there is one gold washer on the thru axle and one in the fork on the old one)
Edit: there was no metal insert in the old one i must've remembered it wrong.
I will update the post after I replace it on the bike.
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Finally I'm back on the road. Fork took long to arrive, but the paint color matches perfectly and I survived my first two short rides 8)
Put some titanium parts, new solid oil bearings (way cheaper than CS https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html (https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html)) and a lighter wheelset plus cassette on the bike which is now about 6,85 kg with everything on. I'm still loving that color, it really shines and pops in the sun!
Wish me luck, that everything works out in the future. It really rides lovely!
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Got this on order, coming sometime this fall...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLRwWUuOIwc/
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Got this on order, coming sometime this fall...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLRwWUuOIwc/
Hmmm thought the X68 was dead!
Just an itch that had to be scratched? ;D
You super super intrigued aint ya Patrick!? ;D
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Wish me luck, that everything works out in the future. It really rides lovely!
[/quote]
Finally!!
Looks good Seranade Wheels look nice!
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Hmmm thought the X68 was dead!
Just an itch that had to be scratched? ;D
You super super intrigued aint ya Patrick!? ;D
LoL they approached me. And we are almost nearing the end of summer. Most of my bike review obligations have been fulfilled. I already sold my SL8 frameset too so the components and groupsets are just sitting in a box anyway. It will be an easy swap. My first question was about the new fork.
This however doesn't make me any less of a hypocrite or a shill. But hey a man can change his mind right? RIGHT?
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LoL they approached me. And we are almost nearing the end of summer. Most of my bike review obligations have been fulfilled. I already sold my SL8 frameset too so the components and groupsets are just sitting in a box anyway. It will be an easy swap. My first question was about the new fork.
This however doesn't make me any less of a hypocrite or a shill. But hey, a man can change his mind, right? RIGHT?
Honestly, this thread and the Cannondale fake thread feel like astroturfing at this point. The clickbait titles, which seem wildly misleading at this point, and the feeling that your influencing is the thing that elevated TanTan from a suspect low-quality supplier to being the topic of the most popular thread on this forum add up to that.
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LoL they approached me. And we are almost nearing the end of summer. Most of my bike review obligations have been fulfilled. I already sold my SL8 frameset too so the components and groupsets are just sitting in a box anyway. It will be an easy swap. My first question was about the new fork.
This however doesn't make me any less of a hypocrite or a shill. But hey a man can change his mind right? RIGHT?
Of course you can! 🤣
Happy to hear your thoughts whether you get paid or not I could not give a f$ck myself good luck. to you!
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I take all "influencer" content with a great grain of salt. But in some respects its no different than what the old mainstream press did for years-they got sent stuff by advertisers to review, so same risk of bias. Only difference is generally they had to send the product back after review.
That said, I'm curious to hear what Patrick has to say.
The fork in the photo is pretty clearly the revised fork-it has full depth inserts, the early forks lacked the hub side integral reinforcement.
I'm not all worked up over the fork issues, Specialized went through it with the sl7 and the compression ring, Cannondale with the frame stops etc. Its not uncommon in the industry. Its been addressed, lets not blow it out of proportion.
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Most influencers do demand payment or referral codes with a kickback to generate content and then fail to disclose it. They are fundamentally different than cycling journalists in that regard, and most people have fallen for it.
While Patrick should disclose his business relationships if they go beyond providing a frame to review as a matter of serving the viewers on his channel, the way I see it, he can do what he wants, and I can call it out as shilling or astroturfing or marketing or whatever.
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I'm not all worked up over the fork issues, Specialized went through it with the sl7 and the compression ring, Cannondale with the frame stops etc. Its not uncommon in the industry. Its been addressed, lets not blow it out of proportion.
This is a false equivalence. Specialized went and fixed every bike they sold with the correct parts. I have no idea about the Cannondale controversy, but we can look at the DT Swiss recall, the SRAM loctite "recall" and heck even the Shimano crank issue as being more proactive than what TanTan is doing. And Shimano is still getting sued over their problems.
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did you guys got the Di2 Rear derailleur ICR grommet with the frame?
https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-di2-internal-wire-grommet-4-6mm-ismgm01/p374449?v=308992 (https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-di2-internal-wire-grommet-4-6mm-ismgm01/p374449?v=308992)
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Patrick, do you get paid to make content on Tantan? Because i have to agree with Sakizashi here, you're going to be advertising for the "only" brand in recent memory that was shit enough to ship product that straight up disintegrated. That's reviving fears of shoddy chinese carbon for 5+ years ago. And beyond that, Tantan seems ultimately to be a low quality / high variability clone peddler, it's not a great company to associate with.
Nope I don't get paid. And I don't offer nor accept any sort of upfront "flat fee" from brands either. Never have thus far. TanTan like most frame brands I've dealt with doesn't offer affiliate links either. So really the only gross income I make is maybe the $15-$20 USD from YouTube ad revenue, and whatever the frameset is worth down the line when reselling - which is practically worthless on the second hand market. So I have a closet filled with old cheap framesets that nobody wants.
For myself I just love building new bikes. It's a fantastic therapeutic hobby. Doesn't matter whether if it's a $4000 frame or $400. Bikes are just fascinating to me. I have zero attachment or feelings to any particular brand. My passion is the main reason brands even deal with me. That and my engagement with viewers. Because statistically my YouTube/IG is very low level compared to the Hambinis/GC Performances/Peak Torques of the industry. However, the $300 I make monthly from YouTube isn't exactly enough to reinvest into constantly buying new frames/wheels from a completely unbiased perspective. Even if I raised capital via GoFundMe or Patreon to fund new projects, someone will always make a stink about. Not to mention the hours upon hours of my time each week.
Sure other YouTubers are probably making loads of money. I am not one of them. This whole thing is truly a labor of love. So until someone provides a financial solution that doesn't put me in the red according to my accountant for the past 5 fiscal years, influencing helps subsidized an already expensive hobby. I earn no net income. Watch my videos or don't. Either way it costs me money in the end.
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I actually feel for Patrick here.
I'm a retired graphic designer and photographer and I too am obsessed with bikes and cycling culture (building them as much as riding them).
I was just called out on the Weight Weenies forums for being in the industry and getting paid to do full blown marketing campaigns for brands and thus I am breaking the forum rules and should be registered as a trader.
In truth that upset me as to this date I have not received a single dollar from any brands. I have received small discounts from some brands in exchange for photos of their goods on my bike. I have received a couple of water bottles from a friend who asked me to take photos of her in her new MAAP gear (she's a MAAP Ambassador and the photos were used on her Instagram but MAAP never used the photos).
It's a double edged sword. On the one hand it must feel absolutely unreal for Patrick to get free frames and goods to review (personally I'd frikkin' love that and if you're being honest with yourself you probably would too). You can't underestimate what makes you happy, and I have no doubt at all that Patrick loves building up bikes. As a self confessed narcissist I also bet he loves the positive attention, but that said I bet he loathes the negative attention (which in reality will grow as his success grows), especially from fellow cyclists (we all love bikes, why can't we all just get along?!).
Can't say I like Patricks content (and that's OK), would never subscribe and do not place much value on his opinions, but I respect the obvious (to me) passion and obsession. He's very obviously into bikes and as someone who's also crazy about bikes and also spamming every forum/reddit/social media platform about bikes I have to say that IMHO most of the negativity is uncalled for and most likely comes from misunderstanding.
Patrick if you're reading this; From experience (I'm old AF) transparency is key (it'll help you sleep better at night!). With power comes responsibility so definitely take your power to influence a little more seriously as your channel and reach grows (if you inspired a kid to buy a replica frame and that kid dies because the frame blew up how would you feel?). As a fellow content creator, the more people pile on you the more I have your back. Keep doing what you love, more power to you!
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I am not to sure what is going on here. I watch most of Patrick vidéo, I am not a big roadie but I like the Guy and that’s my way to contribute/support. I don’t think he fails to say that he was sent a frame, or anything he tests, it seems to be in the open to me. He says here he doesn’t get paid either, his word are good enough for me, I don’t think we should expect anything more from him as far as transparency!
Patrick, you do you, you don’t owe jack to those who follow you and no more to those who don’t care for your content.
Peace!
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Every single cycling content creator that I consider either my counterpart or aspirational benchmark thinks I'm foolish for engaging with the internet community/forums. I speak to all these dudes on a regular basis offline. And you guys know all of these individuals I'm referring to.
Their argument is that internet folks don't represent the vast majority of paying customers for any given brand. I like coming here because affordable bikes keep my sanity. I've been here well before my YouTube channel was anything notable.
And speaking of notoriety...if you compare the (lack of) growth of my channel versus everyone else who started around the same time I did 4-5 years ago, I should have given up YouTube long time ago. 15k subs when everyone else now is at least at 30k-150k subs. Incredible. Clearly I'm doing something wrong. And clearly I don't make videos for money. Historically if you look at the very-well defined demographic of cycling in general why I would expect to be popular? There are hundreds of other channels people can identify with.
Whether ya call me a shill or just a chill guy, take solace in the fact I even make myself available to be called that. Quite literally I am at the bottom of the chain in terms of influence.
EDIT: I'll land my plane with this post LoL. This convo highlights why I like coming here. I'm a human being one-man show. Who just loves building bikes 8) Carry on...
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I kicked the hornet's nest, so I should clarify some stuff.
I chose my words carefully to reflect my thought that it "feels like astroturfing." I tried hard not to imply that was his intent when he started this thread 108 pages ago. That seems rather impractical. I do think @patliean1 is being annoyingly humble, or even unaware of his influence and clout and how it has affected this forum and the perception of TanTan.
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I get why folks would think its foolish. But obviously, its not your means of support. Its likely different for folks who need peeps to tune in. I honestly enjoy what you you have to say here, and while I look at your YT and Insta stuff, its more or less because of what you contribute here, otherwise it'd get lost in the YT jungle. And aside from one or maybe two channels, most of the YT stuff is garbage or mere self promotion. I don't think that's what you're up to.
But hey, I'm in my mid 60's and most of social media/influence/marketing is lost on me. Particularly the Hambini types who just shout about how smart they are.
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Patrick, do you get paid to make content on Tantan? Because i have to agree with Sakizashi here, you're going to be advertising for the "only" brand in recent memory that was shit enough to ship product that straight up disintegrated. That's reviving fears of shoddy chinese carbon for 5+ years ago. And beyond that, Tantan seems ultimately to be a low quality / high variability clone peddler, it's not a great company to associate with.
What better quality and lightweight frame would you advise to buy as an alternative? Which brand are more trustable?
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What a read since my last visit! Looking forward to Patric's review. It would be interesting if he could get more background info from TanTan about this frame but i doubt they will share anything more.
Quick update from me. I replaced the fork and everything is working properly. It actually fits better than the old one, with a smaller gap between the top of the fork and bottom of the headset. Since I had to disconnect the hose anyway, I also swapped the headset spacers and top cap for original SL8 ones, which fit much better than TanTan's. See attached pictures.
quick response to the question in between that mayhem :D
did you guys got the Di2 Rear derailleur ICR grommet with the frame?
https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-di2-internal-wire-grommet-4-6mm-ismgm01/p374449?v=308992 (https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-di2-internal-wire-grommet-4-6mm-ismgm01/p374449?v=308992)
Yes, it was in the packet with other accessories.
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So, I've been lurking here for some time and sometime in early May I placed an order for a X68 with complete Ultegra di2 groupset and a set of 50/65 Falcon pro turbo from Light bicycle. The wheels are 34mm wide and I run Conti GP5k 30C that expand to 33mm. It is absolutely not a weight weenie build, focus has been on a mix of aero and comfort for endurance riding without explicitly trying to weigh the bike down. Don't have a good scale to weigh the bike but the bathroom scale says it's around 7,7kg. This is without wrapping the handlebars though.
The pros with Tantan is the comparatively low costs for both frame and groupset 2100$ inc. shipping to .se. Also the possibility for custom paint. I think the cons would be pretty much everything else though.
I ordered the frame painted matte red and matte black with a long gradient along the top tube and down tube. Gradient is good and is actually better in reality than what it looks like on the pictures. However it was not matte but painted in gloss. ::) Paint was ok on the frame, the fork has a few marks, some small like specks of dust in the color and one larger where it looks like something has touched the fork before the paint dried. Thankfully it's at least on the back of the fork. Brake mounts have some over spray and front brake was hard to install. Had to do a lot of filing to be able to install it in the first place and in the end I got help to do a professional facing for the front brakes.
Tantan also sent the wrong handlebars. I'm a small guy, frameset is size 49 and Tantan sent me 400x90 handlebars instead of the 380 I've specified. On my old bike I run 360 so this was already a compromise. And they're absolute a$$holes to deal with when it comes to something like this. If it is mentioned that they've made an error - the emails won't be answered. If I ask for at least some kind of discount for ordering a new handlebar - the emails won't be answered. I've been reluctant to install the wrong size handlebars for a while but now I've just installed them so I can at least ride the bike.
Also I didn't calculate seat post length and min insertion so now I've got about 85mm insertion. X68 should have 100mm insertion but SL is at 75mm. Since I'm a small light guy I'm not stressing over it and anyway Tantan doesn't want to talk to me about selling me a longer seat post or narrower bars.
Has anyone tried to fit Yoho seat post to the X68? Or can someone recommend any other SL8 style seat post that will fit?
It is unlikely that Tantan will receive more money from me so I've ordered the new HBR17 in 360x100 from LightCarbon. More expensive but it looks promising IMHO. I like that it is available in narrower size and I also like that it has some flare - if nothing else it will at least contribute to a sporty look. It is also available with spacers/adapter for SL8 if you ask nicely.
So far I have only made 4 rides and less than 200km on the bike and it sure is different from my old bike. The old is a repaired Focus Cayo (2013-2014 or something) with 35mm alu rims and mechanical 10s. Even if the new bike only is "current" the leap from the old bike is large enough to make it feel like I'm in the future now. The bike wants more speed and tighter corners so I think we'll have some good times together.
Paint job didn't turn out exactly like I wanted it but I think the way it actually turned out isn't bad either. Together with the wheelset I like the visual appearance and I think the new handlebars will also contribute to a sporty/racy look. Overall I'm happy with the bike and don't regret buying it although some of the experience with Tantan has been frustrating. Only drawback is now I can't blame the bike - now it is clear that the motor is the limiting factor. I think that if LightCarbon LCR018-D had been released before I bought the X68 I might have bought that one instead and made a build leaning more on comfort (and "aero looks") than actual aero. Would be interesting to build an endurance bike with deep section rims for 38-40c slicks but that's an entirely different project.
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It sucks that tantan screwed up on the paint you wanted and the handlebar, but that red to black fade with black sparkle looks gorgeous in gloss
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So, I've been lurking here for some time and sometime in early May I placed an order for a X68 with complete Ultegra di2 groupset and a set of 50/65 Falcon pro turbo from Light bicycle. The wheels are 34mm wide and I run Conti GP5k 30C that expand to 33mm.
Beautiful bike. How much were the Wheels if you don’t mind sharing?
Thanks!
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Yeah well, the experience with Tantan hasn't been the best and the outcome of the paint was not as intended but it still was suprisingly good so I'm still happy about it.
The wheels were ~1050$ + 150$ shipping to .se so far from being cheap for being a chinese wheelset.
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Something different. Ali Trek style aero bottles on an x68. Stock they're grey and black. Might need an accent or graphic on the bottle but they look good. They function well, just wish they had a normal pull open spout.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54724909496_75e227eeb0_w.jpg)
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Nope I don't get paid. And I don't offer nor accept any sort of upfront "flat fee" from brands either. Never have thus far. TanTan like most frame brands I've dealt with doesn't offer affiliate links either. So really the only gross income I make is maybe the $15-$20 USD from YouTube ad revenue, and whatever the frameset is worth down the line when reselling - which is practically worthless on the second hand market. So I have a closet filled with old cheap framesets that nobody wants.
For myself I just love building new bikes. It's a fantastic therapeutic hobby. Doesn't matter whether if it's a $4000 frame or $400. Bikes are just fascinating to me. I have zero attachment or feelings to any particular brand. My passion is the main reason brands even deal with me. That and my engagement with viewers. Because statistically my YouTube/IG is very low level compared to the Hambinis/GC Performances/Peak Torques of the industry. However, the $300 I make monthly from YouTube isn't exactly enough to reinvest into constantly buying new frames/wheels from a completely unbiased perspective. Even if I raised capital via GoFundMe or Patreon to fund new projects, someone will always make a stink about. Not to mention the hours upon hours of my time each week.
Sure other YouTubers are probably making loads of money. I am not one of them. This whole thing is truly a labor of love. So until someone provides a financial solution that doesn't put me in the red according to my accountant for the past 5 fiscal years, influencing helps subsidized an already expensive hobby. I earn no net income. Watch my videos or don't. Either way it costs me money in the end.
patrick you probably already knew this but you are my favorite BBC (Bike Builder & Commentator) on the internet. I will not describe in full details what i do to myself while watching your videos.
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patrick you probably already knew this but you are my favorite BBC (Bike Builder & Commentator) on the internet. I will not describe in full details what i do to myself while watching your videos.
Considering your nickname, I think ppl are getting quite curious. You must do yoga ;D
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Something different. Ali Trek style aero bottles on an x68. Stock they're grey and black. Might need an accent or graphic on the bottle but they look good. They function well, just wish they had a normal pull open spout.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54724909496_75e227eeb0_w.jpg)
looks good :)
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Got this on order, coming sometime this fall...
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLRwWUuOIwc/
I allready liked your posts (and IG account). I'm not much of a youtube-watcher. But considering I'm ordering exactly that frame (same colour, but with custom decals) I will watch your vid this time :) I hope you build your frame before me, so I can just copy what you did :)
I'm getting a 54 frame, 178cm tall, normal proportions. Not sure about the handlebar. Think I'll need 110x38. Does that sound 'normal' or would that be too long?
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I'm getting a 54 frame, 178cm tall, normal proportions. Not sure about the handlebar. Think I'll need 110x38. Does that sound 'normal' or would that be too long?
Tough to say without knowing your fitness, bike fit needs, or your current bike setup. But 110 is probably a good place to start I reckon.
My bike fit is all messed up these days from constantly testing different bikes. I've ran on my SL8 140, 150, and even 160mm length stems LoL. Because I'm an idiot.
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Tough to say without knowing your fitness, bike fit needs, or your current bike setup. But 110 is probably a good place to start I reckon.
My bike fit is all messed up these days from constantly testing different bikes. I've ran on my SL8 140, 150, and even 160mm length stems LoL. Because I'm an idiot.
I'd say my fitness is good. I do timetrials/triathlon (competitive for the podium in the region/locally), but riding my roadbike more than my TT bike (due to traffic, the occasional climb/holliday-mountains abroad, and grouprides).
For a above average fitness, would a 120 stem make more sense? I know it's a guess, but not paying for a bikefit (and my last one was 7 years ago).
I really like the integrated bars over a seperate stem.Is there a specific length that I can measure from my current bike set-up (like reach?) to get a better guess/estimate? If so, what exactly do a measure (mid-seatpost to mid-handlebars? Of mid-sadle to mid-handlebars)?
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I really like the integrated bars over a seperate stem.Is there a specific length that I can measure from my current bike set-up (like reach?) to get a better guess/estimate? If so, what exactly do a measure (mid-seatpost to mid-handlebars? Of mid-sadle to mid-handlebars)?
If you're not interested in a complete bike fit you can measure your current bike and copy/paste over to your new bike. Reach and stack are good measurements but they don't say that much by themselves. I would say you'll really want the position of the saddle (reach/stack to saddle from BB) to get the fit for your lower body. You'll also want measurements from the saddle to the hoods. Last one is not all that easy to measure but it's needed for upper body fit.
If you play around with this in excel (with geometry for your current frame, spacers, stem, bars etc) and add a new row with geometry for new bike/prospect you can calculate reasonable size of bike and components. If you're confident you don't need to change your fit on the bike this is the cost-effective way to do it.
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I allready liked your posts (and IG account). I'm not much of a youtube-watcher. But considering I'm ordering exactly that frame (same colour, but with custom decals) I will watch your vid this time :) I hope you build your frame before me, so I can just copy what you did :)
I'm getting a 54 frame, 178cm tall, normal proportions. Not sure about the handlebar. Think I'll need 110x38. Does that sound 'normal' or would that be too long?
Cnasta
I always have a set of 380x110cm you can buy for peanuts if you want to try another bar size.
I cannot remember but a set of bar from Tan Tan is like $60usd I think.
I ride 54cm an I am 178cm but I have gone back to 120cm.
I was running 120cm on my SL7 then sized down to 110cm on my SL8 but it felT cramped so went back to 120cm again
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If you're not interested in a complete bike fit you can measure your current bike and copy/paste over to your new bike. Reach and stack are good measurements but they don't say that much by themselves. I would say you'll really want the position of the saddle (reach/stack to saddle from BB) to get the fit for your lower body. You'll also want measurements from the saddle to the hoods. Last one is not all that easy to measure but it's needed for upper body fit.
If you play around with this in excel (with geometry for your current frame, spacers, stem, bars etc) and add a new row with geometry for new bike/prospect you can calculate reasonable size of bike and components. If you're confident you don't need to change your fit on the bike this is the cost-effective way to do it.
Measuring the Stack is clear to me. But how to measure reach in a way I can compare it to the X68. I other words, form where tot where do I measure? Look at these charts, wouldn't it be easier/better to measure effective toptube?
https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/tantan-tt-x68-2024/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/tantan-tt-x68-2024/)
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Cnasta
I always have a set of 380x110cm you can buy for peanuts if you want to try another bar size.
I cannot remember but a set of bar from Tan Tan is like $60usd I think.
I ride 54cm an I am 178cm but I have gone back to 120cm.
I was running 120cm on my SL7 then sized down to 110cm on my SL8 but it felT cramped so went back to 120cm again
Thanks for the reply! Been admiring your IG account and especially the goodies on your x68. Might take some inspiration (for the 'cheaper' upgrades). If I need a 110 I'll contact you. Got some friends living in the .UK, so that could work out :)
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Measuring the Stack is clear to me. But how to measure reach in a way I can compare it to the X68. I other words, form where tot where do I measure? Look at these charts, wouldn't it be easier/better to measure effective toptube?
https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/tantan-tt-x68-2024/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/tantan-tt-x68-2024/)
You have 3 contact points on the bike, the pedals (centered around BB), the saddle and the bar (or hoods where most people have their hands). The top tube doesn't really say anything about any of the contact points. BB is the only contact point you can't adjust, so measure the other contact points relative to the BB. Make sure saddle is reasonably close to where you want it, adjusting the saddle is easy. Put more effort into the bars, they are more complicated (and expensive) to adjust if you need to change integrated bars because the stem is the wrong length.
The problem with the geometry chart is that it only tells part of the story. It only tells you about the frame and not about the complete bike and the extra parts needed to make the frame fit your body. If you have the geometry chart for your current bike you can compare stack/reach between the frames and then you can compare how many spacers and what stem length you need to get the bars in the same position as on your current bike.
If you don't have the geometry chart for your current bike you can measure from the BB to the bars/hoods and calculate spacers and stem from the X68 geometry.
If you measure to the hoods you'll have to compare the handlebars too (reach). Could be worth looking into it though, would be annoying if the bar is in the correct place but the hoods are 1-2cm off. I think the Roval Rapide clone bars are quite compact.
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When I was sorting out my x68 sizing, I took an existing well fitting bike and measured reach, stack, and drop (by measuring bar height from floor and saddle height from floor ). I was then able to approximate whether I could get the drop to work with acceptable spacer stack, and what stem was needed.
I was between sizes as well, using my measurments I was leaning to a 42 with max spacers and a 110, using Specialized's chart I'd end up on a 52 with much less seatpost and a shorter stem. Experience then took over-generally, I prefer bikes that I feel like I'm "in" rather than "on" and immediately gravitated to the smaller size frame, 110 stem, and live with full spacer stack. I love the bike and the fit, and I'm 65 with an injury history so if it works for me, yada.
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I'll go for the 120x38 option bar-stem and the 54 frame. The frame I'm sure about. If the stem is too long, I'll find another option.
Just fighting with ChatGPT to finish my logo's. New version got much better, but aligning text is not its forte yet :)
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I'll go for the 120x38 option bar-stem and the 54 frame. The frame I'm sure about. If the stem is too long, I'll find another option.
Just fighting with ChatGPT to finish my logo's. New version got much better, but aligning text is not its forte yet :)
Is it possible to see your logo or does it have to be a surprise? ;D
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Is it possible to see your logo or does it have to be a surprise? ;D
It will be a surprise :D But it's based on my year of living in Bologna, Italy. Both the logo, (made up) brand and 2 decals will be hints to that City :)
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It will be a surprise :D But it's based on my year of living in Bologna, Italy. Both the logo, (made up) brand and 2 decals will be hints to that City :)
Wow!
I'm from Ravenna, not far from Bologna...I'm really curious to see the final result! ;)
I couldn't think of any better ideas, so in the end I opted for the manufacturer's (?) brand and logo, but customized the font and logo because I didn't like the original ones.
I only had a sticker made for the top of the top tube.
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Took my bike to the mechanic today to get the brake mounts properly faced.
Honestly, I should have done this before I built it. The brakes were never 100% perfect – no rubbing when the wheel spun, but they weren’t sitting dead-centre on the rotor. Under braking the pad engagement wasn’t even on both sides, unlike a properly finished frame.
On the road it felt fine most of the time, but out of the saddle there was a small “dink” noise that became annoying.
Worth noting: these frames don’t come faced. To the eye they might look okay, but the bottom bracket shell and brake mounts aren’t machined flat and level like the genuine SL8.
The BB itself has been fine, but the shell is painted right up to the edge of the threads. On the real SL8 this area is faced clean to bare carbon for a perfectly flat surface. Mine looks neat, but it isn’t truly faced, so I’m having that done as well to make sure everything is aligned.
After swapping bars, I had a headache with the front caliper – every time I tightened it, it would shift slightly. In the end I took it to the pros.
Could not find a facing tool on Aliexpress at all and for the cost and how often it would get used not worth buying one.
Will be interesting to hear what the LBS mechanic thinks
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Wow!
I'm from Ravenna, not far from Bologna...I'm really curious to see the final result! ;)
I couldn't think of any better ideas, so in the end I opted for the manufacturer's (?) brand and logo, but customized the font and logo because I didn't like the original ones.
I only had a sticker made for the top of the top tube.
Haha, cool. I'v just came back from my summerholliday. I send 1,5 week at Lago Maggiore and 1,5 at Pennebilli, which is pretty close to Ravenna. Still living there?
I've been to Ravenna a few years back to visit the (real) grave of Dante. When I had my last bike repainted I had them add the next line on the inside of the chainstays: "nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita mi ritrovai per una selva oscura" :)
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Thanks for the reply! Been admiring your IG account and especially the goodies on your x68. Might take some inspiration (for the 'cheaper' upgrades). If I need a 110 I'll contact you. Got some friends living in the .UK, so that could work out :)
Thanks
Always picking up bits 😂
Been so busy have not properly ridden my new 40/45s zen wheels still! need to review and give my thoughts on them but so far they have been great.
But I have bought a new cassette for them last week 11-34T 156g and have a set of Tune Centre lock rings as well.
I have a unused titanium direct mount hanger for Specilaized and derailleur pivot bolt for 9250 and 9100 if your interested ;D
As well
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Thanks
Always picking up bits 😂
Been so busy have not properly ridden my new 40/45s zen wheels still! need to review and give my thoughts on them but so far they have been great.
But I have bought a new cassette for them last week 11-34T 156g and have a set of Tune Centre lock rings as well.
I have a unused titanium direct mount hanger for Specilaized and derailleur pivot bolt for 9250 and 9100 if your interested ;D
As well
I'll be mounting a 11sp Ultegra groupset (guess it's the 8050). Does that work with the direct mount hanger? What is the benefit of the titanium hanger (just weight I guess, and extra bling of course)?
Also I'm looking for a list of possible upgrades/goodies, incl. the prices. I mean, I understand Darimo stuff would make it lighter en more bling, but given those prices I'll skipp. The occasional bold/hanger/Ali-seat/etc. would cost the world and could potentially still save a few grams.
The only expensive stuff I need to buy is BB + crankset + PM. I'd like machined black aero chainrings (absolute black / stone / Riro / Pass Quest) with A powermeter (chargeable, not battery-powered) and carbon crankarms that fit this frame. Will be riding 52/36 on this frame (12-30 in the rear I think), since I'll take it to the Alps as well.
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Haha, cool. I'v just came back from my summerholliday. I send 1,5 week at Lago Maggiore and 1,5 at Pennebilli, which is pretty close to Ravenna. Still living there?
I've been to Ravenna a few years back to visit the (real) grave of Dante. When I had my last bike repainted I had them add the next line on the inside of the chainstays: "nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita mi ritrovai per una selva oscura" :)
Yes, I still live in Ravenna...but my "ideal place" would be the mountains (which I love)!
For the name of my custom brand, I tried to draw inspiration from the mountains...but "mountains" or "Dolomites" seemed too banal, so in the end I limited myself to a small sticker with stylized mountain peaks and the initials VDB (Van Der Benny...Benny is the nickname many people call me). ;D
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I'll be mounting a 11sp Ultegra groupset (guess it's the 8050). Does that work with the direct mount hanger? What is the benefit of the titanium hanger (just weight I guess, and extra bling of course)?
Also I'm looking for a list of possible upgrades/goodies, incl. the prices. I mean, I understand Darimo stuff would make it lighter en more bling, but given those prices I'll skipp. The occasional bold/hanger/Ali-seat/etc. would cost the world and could potentially still save a few grams.
The only expensive stuff I need to buy is BB + crankset + PM. I'd like machined black aero chainrings (absolute black / stone / Riro / Pass Quest) with A powermeter (chargeable, not battery-powered) and carbon crankarms that fit this frame. Will be riding 52/36 on this frame (12-30 in the rear I think), since I'll take it to the Alps as well.
Its is bling and a marginal weight loss, but all these parts add up and you can get a direct mount on Aliexpress anyway cheap
My Chinese Carbon Crank is about 660g with XCADAY PM and Pass Quest rings I did change the Rings to XM Carbon minimal weight saving but again this is more aesthetics. Plenty of crank option online this carbon crank is now very generic
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So had the same issue when I had the frame delivered had to get the rear washer out of the back as it got stuck.
Hey Sander, any tips on how to get the rear washer out? Got some new thru-axles but they have the washer stuck on them.
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Hey Sander, any tips on how to get the rear washer out? Got some new thru-axles but they have the washer stuck on them.
I had the same thing I used a sharp edge of a knife around the edge of the washer and basically had to dig it out. The push it out from the back on the inside of the washer.
Just take time will come out eventually
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What would be the reason to get it out if you're always gonna mount the TA with the washer? Serious question bc mine is also stuck in there but I figured its a non-issue. Im sure Im wrong.
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Its is bling and a marginal weight loss, but all these parts add up and you can get a direct mount on Aliexpress anyway cheap
My Chinese Carbon Crank is about 660g with XCADAY PM and Pass Quest rings I did change the Rings to XM Carbon minimal weight saving but again this is more aesthetics. Plenty of crank option online this carbon crank is now very generic
Did you like the pass quest chainrings? I don't like the movement from small to big with those, it works but needs alot more throw than with shimano :s
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What would be the reason to get it out if you're always gonna mount the TA with the washer? Serious question bc mine is also stuck in there but I figured its a non-issue. Im sure Im wrong.
I already started to round the head of the thru-axle, so was thinking about getting a replacement so I don't get it forever stuck by not being able to insert a hex wrench in. SO looked at new thru-axles, but the ones I got from Ali have the washer stuck on them as well. So two washers... either take the washer out of the frame, or the washer off the thru-axle.
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What would be the reason to get it out if you're always gonna mount the TA with the washer? Serious question bc mine is also stuck in there but I figured its a non-issue. Im sure Im wrong.
If using other Thru axles the washer may not be compatible, most likely it will not if using overfast axles
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I already started to round the head of the thru-axle, so was thinking about getting a replacement so I don't get it forever stuck by not being able to insert a hex wrench in. SO looked at new thru-axles, but the ones I got from Ali have the washer stuck on them as well. So two washers... either take the washer out of the frame, or the washer off the thru-axle.
How have you managed to round the head? max sure you get a good quality hex to fit too loose and it will round and it does not need to be done up to 13Nm, 9Nm will be fine
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Did you like the pass quest chainrings? I don't like the movement from small to big with those, it works but needs alot more throw than with shimano :s
They were fine nothing wrong with them.
Like everyone says want perfect shifting stick with Shimano. The shifting on these rings works its just not as crisp that all but they work
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Has anyone managed to fit a non tantan seatpost into their X68? Hoping to find something in 0 offset rather than the -15 that it ships with.
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Hello everyone,
First of all, please accept my apologies for being a completely newbie in this field. I’m interested in buying the X68 from Tantan. I’m based in the EU and would like your opinion on which site I should use to purchase this bike. https://www.tantanbicycles.com/ or https://tantanbikes.com/ which one is reliable? Another concern: I noticed an issue with a cracked fork (page 54). When I showed it to Tantan sales representative, he explained that the fork has been upgraded from 320g to 380g. Is that true? One site show full build 7,4kg, other 7,2kg. And lastly, the shipping cost is 300 euros, and they don’t want to reduce the price, stating it's door to door service.
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Hello everyone,
First of all, please accept my apologies for being a completely newbie in this field. I’m interested in buying the X68 from Tantan. I’m based in the EU and would like your opinion on which site I should use to purchase this bike. https://www.tantanbicycles.com/ or https://tantanbikes.com/ which one is reliable? Another concern: I noticed an issue with a cracked fork (page 54). When I showed it to Tantan sales representative, he explained that the fork has been upgraded from 320g to 380g. Is that true? One site show full build 7,4kg, other 7,2kg. And lastly, the shipping cost is 300 euros, and they don’t want to reduce the price, stating it's door to door service.
Hi! I ordered my frame from TANTAN on the 18.7.2025 incl. handlebar, fork and shipping to Austria for 925 USD. Till today it is not shipped.
Best regards, Alex
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Hello everyone,
First of all, please accept my apologies for being a completely newbie in this field. I’m interested in buying the X68 from Tantan. I’m based in the EU and would like your opinion on which site I should use to purchase this bike. https://www.tantanbicycles.com/ or https://tantanbikes.com/ which one is reliable? Another concern: I noticed an issue with a cracked fork (page 54). When I showed it to Tantan sales representative, he explained that the fork has been upgraded from 320g to 380g. Is that true? One site show full build 7,4kg, other 7,2kg. And lastly, the shipping cost is 300 euros, and they don’t want to reduce the price, stating it's door to door service.
The website is the same company but go
With
https://www.tantanbicycles.com/Super-light-Disc-road-bicycle-carbon-frame-Bike-70032C-Full-Toray-T1000-836G-Flat-mount-brake-frameset-TT-X68-p6417454.html
WhatsApp Vivian
+86 136 9093 8214
As to confirm the bike weight but there are always mistake in adverts it’s only 200g not worth worrying about.
Fork issue has been sorted yes.
Shipping is $300usd including taxes due to the fact you are ordering a full bike and the price sound about right frame is $150usd
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Hi! I ordered my frame from TANTAN on the 18.7.2025 incl. handlebar, fork and shipping to Austria for 925 USD. Till today it is not shipped.
Best regards, Alex
How many days were you quoted?
Manufacturing times are working days not including weekends or any public. Holidays.
Form 18th till today is 24 working days. last time I heard it was 30 working days for a frame
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Hi! I ordered my frame from TANTAN on the 18.7.2025 incl. handlebar, fork and shipping to Austria for 925 USD. Till today it is not shipped.
Best regards, Alex
I ordered on 14 July. It shipped on 20 Aug. Because I'm in the US, to reduce the tariffs it's getting put on a ship to California, then UPS Ground to me. I expect to receive it by late Sept.
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Someone deeper in this thread customized the saddle camp rails on their seatpost. Does anyone remember what page that was on, or who did it? I've tried searching but probably screwed that up.
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Someone deeper in this thread customized the saddle camp rails on their seatpost. Does anyone remember what page that was on, or who did it? I've tried searching but probably screwed that up.
Me I done some modifications.
Cut the post down the post bought a carbon cradle, replaced with titanium bolts and aluminium yokes/clamps
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Someone deeper in this thread customized the saddle camp rails on their seatpost. Does anyone remember what page that was on, or who did it? I've tried searching but probably screwed that up.
I did the same. I will caution that the zrace yoke that I used (and drilled slightly oversized) snapped in half recently when tightening the front bolt. I wasn't using a torque wrench but doubt I was over 6nm.
There are numerous sources on ali now for carbon top plates and I might be tempted to try one of those.
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I did the same. I will caution that the zrace yoke that I used (and drilled slightly oversized) snapped in half recently when tightening the front bolt. I wasn't using a torque wrench but doubt I was over 6nm.
There are numerous sources on ali now for carbon top plates and I might be tempted to try one of those.
Good old Aluminium will keep an eye on mine! where did it snap right through the middle?
Also if you can send me links to alternatives I have see Ti option which will obviously be better
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Hello all! New user here, and after reading through this whole thread (took a few days!) I pulled the trigger and ordered a full build with the ultegra gruppo. Basically wanted a newish carbon road bike (have a 2021 aeroad with 650b wheels --yep small guy here lol) and also from my quick and non-exhaustive research I couldn't find another complete build with ultegra for the price that Tantan has (on a very popular frame design to boot!).
Also the plan further down the line if anything were to happen to this x68 bike frame is to move the groupset over to my ti road bike which came with 105 di2 (so it will be an upgrade if/when that happens). In any case, it's now time to play the waiting game I suppose cos I placed the order just a few days ago. Will report back when I do, and how my rides are with it. Cheers!
Tidbits: ordered a size 49, chameleon white, 165mm cranks and 380x90 bars.
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Good old Aluminium will keep an eye on mine! where did it snap right through the middle?
Also if you can send me links to alternatives I have see Ti option which will obviously be better
Here's an assortment-https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-carbon-seatpost-cap.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0 Haven't weighed or tried one yet. And yeah, I saw ti parts or someone had ti yokes...
Keep in mind that I drilled mine to clear the 6mm bolt-yours with the 5 is likely stronger, but there are reports out there of them breaking with 5mm bolts. Mine snapped on one side of the hole, but might as well been dead center.
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Here's an assortment-https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-carbon-seatpost-cap.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0 Haven't weighed or tried one yet. And yeah, I saw ti parts or someone had ti yokes...
Keep in mind that I drilled mine to clear the 6mm bolt-yours with the 5 is likely stronger, but there are reports out there of them breaking with 5mm bolts. Mine snapped on one side of the hole, but might as well been dead center.
Ok thanks
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So, I've been lurking here for some time and sometime in early May I placed an order for a X68 with complete Ultegra di2 groupset and a set of 50/65 Falcon pro turbo from Light bicycle. The wheels are 34mm wide and I run Conti GP5k 30C that expand to 33mm. It is absolutely not a weight weenie build, focus has been on a mix of aero and comfort for endurance riding without explicitly trying to weigh the bike down.
Heu, can you share a link to taillight mount you have mounted on you seatpost? I'm looking for something like that, couse my rubber mount pissing me off. Thanks
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Heu, can you share a link to taillight mount you have mounted on you seatpost? I'm looking for something like that, couse my rubber mount pissing me off. Thanks
I have this one, very happy, no exposed hardware-https://www.etsy.com/listing/1748586743/garmin-varia-specialized-sl8-mount?
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After 1300km tantan computer mount is dead ::)
Broke today on very fast descent, but spotted on right time and my Karoo is ok 8)
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Heu, can you share a link to taillight mount you have mounted on you seatpost? I'm looking for something like that, couse my rubber mount pissing me off. Thanks
i have this one https://makerworld.com/models/599359, if you have 3d printer you can make it pretty cheaply. I printed it in ASA and it works amazingly.
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i have this one https://makerworld.com/models/599359, if you have 3d printer you can make it pretty cheaply. I printed it in ASA and it works amazingly.
Thanks, job done for free 8) maybe you have a link for a front computer mount file to print in 3D? ;D
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Thanks, job done for free 8) maybe you have a link for a front computer mount file to print in 3D? ;D
Np, looks good! :)
Unfortunately, there are no good free Garmin mount models for the roval rapide cockpit. You could try this one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/575072-garmin-mount-for-integrated-handlebar, but in my opinion, it's not the best. I just ended up getting the mount from the guys over at https://www.magcad-designs.com/. They have really nice designs, and the quality is fantastic.
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Thanks to Sander2177 for the information I needed regarding the legitimacy of websites and contacts. Unfortunately, my local bank declines purchase made via PayPal. However I was offered an alternative to complete the transaction directly to: tantan168vip@yeah.net is that a safe way? Sorry for my exaggeration, it's a significant amount to pay, I want to be sure.
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Hello Guys,
Here a picture of the 2 bikes I built for my wife and I. Fork was the heavy one.
For her:
- size 49 + 90x380mm
- color YS3481 - blue
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s
- cassette Dura ace 12s (got it from a friend) - 11-34
- chain Dura ace
- Riro carbon crankset - 165mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wave 2 wheels + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc rotor 160mm front - 140mm rear
- Ryet 3d saddle
- IGPsport BSC200s gps
For me:
- size 58 + 100x400mm
- colo YS2086-1 - green
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s
- cassette dura ace 12s (got it from a friend) - 11-34
- chain Dura ace
- Riro carbon crankset - 172,5mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wheels 40mm + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc rotor 160mm front - 140mm rear
- LFZ pedals
- Ryet 3d saddle
- Garmin 1040
it was fairly straight forward to build as it is my first build I had to discover how to use the different tools but overall pretty easy to do.
I used the SL8 user manuel to install everything.
Only down part tantan forgot to send the Seatpost wedge cover for both bike, so I need to check with them to send them.
last point I need to put carbon paste on the seatpost has it is slidding down a little even at 6,2Nm.
I did 70km with the bike and I am very impressed, coming from an aluminum decathlon triban 3 from 2013, it is a completely new feeling and sensation.
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Hello Guys,
Here a picture of the 2 bikes I built for my wife and I. Fork was the heavy one.
For her:
- size 49 + 90x380mm
- color YS3481 - blue
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s - 11-34
- cassette dura ace 12s (got it from a friend)
- Riro carbon crankset - 166mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wave 2 wheels + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc brake 160mm front - 140mm rear
- Ryet 3d saddle
- IGPsport BSC200s gps
For me:
- size 58 + 100x400mm
- colo YS2086-1 - green
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s - 11-34
- cassette dura ace 12s (got it from a friend)
- Riro carbon crankset - 172,5mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wheels 40mm + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc brake 160mm front - 140mm rear
- LFZ pedals
- Ryet 3d saddle
- Garmin 1040
it was fairly straight forward to build as it is my first build I had to discover how to use the different tools but overall pretty easy to do.
I used the SL8 user manuel to install everything.
Only down part tantan forgot to send the Seatpost wedge cover for both bike, so I need to check with them to send them.
last point I need to put carbon paste on the seatpost has it is slidding down a little even at 6,2Nm.
I did 70km with the bike and I am very impressed, coming from an aluminum decathlon triban 3 from 2013, it is a completely new feeling and sensation.
Do you want your wife to be in pain? Set up those levers propperly :P
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Do you want your wife to be in pain? Set up those levers propperly :P
Ahah yes it was the last point, but she was out of the house when I finished her bike, she now tried it, and we adjusted the lever properly ;D
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I already follow this thread for a long time and I am aware of the issues in the past. However it seems to be hard to find another frame which is light and still is quite aero like this one.
Will the XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external paired with a GP5000 32mm fit in this frame?
Did anyone ride light gravel with this frame?
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Hello Guys,
Here a picture of the 2 bikes I built for my wife and I. Fork was the heavy one.
For her:
- size 49 + 90x380mm
- color YS3481 - blue
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s - 11-34
- cassette dura ace 12s (got it from a friend)
- Riro carbon crankset - 166mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wave 2 wheels + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc brake 160mm front - 140mm rear
- Ryet 3d saddle
- IGPsport BSC200s gps
For me:
- size 58 + 100x400mm
- colo YS2086-1 - green
- ZTTO BSA Dub bottom bracket
- shimano 105 di2 12s - 11-34
- cassette dura ace 12s (got it from a friend)
- Riro carbon crankset - 172,5mm - 50-34T
- Tagoola wheels 40mm + 32c GP5000 s tr + orange seal
- III3 pro disc brake 160mm front - 140mm rear
- LFZ pedals
- Ryet 3d saddle
- Garmin 1040
it was fairly straight forward to build as it is my first build I had to discover how to use the different tools but overall pretty easy to do.
I used the SL8 user manuel to install everything.
Only down part tantan forgot to send the Seatpost wedge cover for both bike, so I need to check with them to send them.
last point I need to put carbon paste on the seatpost has it is slidding down a little even at 6,2Nm.
I did 70km with the bike and I am very impressed, coming from an aluminum decathlon triban 3 from 2013, it is a completely new feeling and sensation.
HI,
Did you weigh both bikes?
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I already follow this thread for a long time and I am aware of the issues in the past. However it seems to be hard to find another frame which is light and still is quite aero like this one.
Will the XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external paired with a GP5000 32mm fit in this frame?
Did anyone ride light gravel with this frame?
My 25mm inner width wheels with 28mm tyres measure 31.7mm.
On my XMC wheels with 24mm IW, the same 28mm tyre measures 30.7mm.
Personally, I wouldn’t run a 28mm tyre on 26mm IW either. Even the 28mm on 25mm IW feels borderline to me—unless someone can prove me wrong.
A 30mm on 26mm IW might work if some has tried it, I think a 32mm would probably be too tight for my liking.
28mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~30.7mm
28mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~31.7mm
28mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~32.5mm
30mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~31–31.5mm
30mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~31.5–32mm
30mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~32.5–33mm
32mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~33–33.5mm
32mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~33.5–34mm
32mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~34.5–35mm
Depending on tyre model I run maxxis High Road SLs
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I already follow this thread for a long time and I am aware of the issues in the past. However it seems to be hard to find another frame which is light and still is quite aero like this one.
Will the XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external paired with a GP5000 32mm fit in this frame?
Did anyone ride light gravel with this frame?
Its highly tire dependent. I have the same wheels and run Vittoria Corsa Controls in 30 and they measure out to a little over 31 with room to spare. Patrick did a youtube video with XMCS wheels and gp5000 32's on an actual sl8 so suppose it works.
As to gravel, the frame is durable enough for me at 60kg to run a couple miles of light gravel on some of my road rides. I wouldn't use it as a "gravel bike" but I've had no issues with those wheels (with carbon spokes) and the x68 (with the early, lighter fork) on mixed surface routes.
As to Sander's comments, I'd not run 28's tubeless on a 25-26 rim, but a) I don't like road tubeless and b) the xmcs wheels are hooked and likely ok with that width but handling might not be optimal
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My 25mm inner width wheels with 28mm tyres measure 31.7mm.
On my XMC wheels with 24mm IW, the same 28mm tyre measures 30.7mm.
Personally, I wouldn’t run a 28mm tyre on 26mm IW either. Even the 28mm on 25mm IW feels borderline to me—unless someone can prove me wrong.
A 30mm on 26mm IW might work if some has tried it, I think a 32mm would probably be too tight for my liking.
28mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~30.7mm
28mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~31.7mm
28mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~32.5mm
30mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~31–31.5mm
30mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~31.5–32mm
30mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~32.5–33mm
32mm tyre on 24mm IW → ~33–33.5mm
32mm tyre on 25mm IW → ~33.5–34mm
32mm tyre on 26mm IW → ~34.5–35mm
Depending on tyre model I run maxxis High Road SLs
How do you feel about the 2024 ETRTO standards recommending not to use 28mm tyres with 24mm IW and higher? I'm not planning to run such skinny tyres with my incoming 24m IW hoops (thinking 32 if not 35mm -- shitty roads around here), but just wondering...
EDIT: For reference, from continental: https://www.continental-tires.com/products/b2c/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/
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HI,
Did you weigh both bikes?
not yet will do it in 2 weeks when i am back.
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How do you feel about the 2024 ETRTO standards recommending not to use 28mm tyres with 24mm IW and higher? I'm not planning to run such skinny tyres with my incoming 24m IW hoops (thinking 32 if not 35mm -- shitty roads around here), but just wondering...
EDIT: For reference, from continental: https://www.continental-tires.com/products/b2c/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/
I’ve honestly never even looked at the ETRTO standards—and as you said, it’s a recommendation so not a hard-and-fast rule.
I was running 28mm tyres on 25mm IW with no issues at all, so I feel confident in judging what works based on experience.
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I already follow this thread for a long time and I am aware of the issues in the past. However it seems to be hard to find another frame which is light and still is quite aero like this one.
Will the XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external paired with a GP5000 32mm fit in this frame?
Did anyone ride light gravel with this frame?
From a member on Weight Weenies
I have 30mm GP 5K S TR installed on my XMCS 26mm IW rims they measure 33mm @ 50 psi
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I’ve honestly never even looked at the ETRTO standards—and as you said, it’s a recommendation so not a hard-and-fast rule.
I was running 28mm tyres on 25mm IW with no issues at all, so I feel confident in judging what works based on experience.
Thanks. I had never looked at it either until I was listening to the Nero Show's interview with a Continental product manager over the weekend. Not very information dense, but her perspective was interesting despite some insipid lines of questioning from the boys:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYAE76VOKbc
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I already follow this thread for a long time and I am aware of the issues in the past. However it seems to be hard to find another frame which is light and still is quite aero like this one.
Will the XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external paired with a GP5000 32mm fit in this frame?
Did anyone ride light gravel with this frame?
I've fit 32c GP5000 on my genuine Tarmac SL8 with the same XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external no problem. The tires stretch to around 34mm at the rim.
https://youtu.be/BtuLvRT1u-c?si=XtC1aiMUr91yt2AA
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She has been built.
Ive taken her for a few rides now and have some perspective. The build was a breeze. Everything routed internally crazy smooth, the BSA threads were a dream and the thru axles are the same. I took a file to the brake mounts and tried to remove the overspray as neatly as possible. The brakes mounted very flat. I had to source the front mount brake adapter from a local shop(they actually removed it from an Aethos they had so I could get my build done quickly). Ill go through a parts list and then give impressions.
My specs: 188cm tall, 91.4cm inseam,and I weigh 74-76kg
Frame: X68(duh) in a size 56
Handlebars: Ullicyc T4 Ultimate 36/120
Wheel: 9Velo CD Wide 50/58(ceramic bearings and Ti freehub)
Groupset: SRAM Force E1 w/PM. 10/36 cass and 48/35 chainrings. 160mm Paceline rotor front. 140 CLX-R rotor rear
Chain: SRAM 12spd Flat top. Purple. Waxed.
Saddle: Ryet 3D Romin copy...picture has Selle Italia SLR
Pedals: Onirii Ti extended SPD-SL(maybe switching to Ultegra 4mm extended)
Der Hander: Silca 3d Ti
Tires: Pirelli Pzero Race TLR RS 30mm setup tubeless with Silca 2.0 and RideNow valves(just slashed my tire open on my last ride...8mm cut in my brand new tire. Sealant everywhere....yay)
First impressions: the bike feels super compliant. It sprints quickly and gets up to speed faster than I can. Turning is a dream and sharp as a tack. I am in love with the internal cable routing and it looks so stupid clean.
Going downhill is another story. Its sloppy at high speeds. I recently went on a fast group ride and above 38mph it was a bit sketchy. Going dead straight downhill wasnt bad but cornering as speeds felt unstable. I am not the best descender or corner taker. I'd love some insight if anyone else feels this way or if I set it up poorly for descending, obviously a longer wheelbase would be more stable. I did put my saddle back a few mm today to test the weight balance, Ill report back.
I did go 52mph down a rippin hill and passed some real fast bois tho, so that was fun.
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I've read complaints from some on ww and other forums about the real sl8's stability in high speed corners. Others swear its rock solid. My (highly personal) suspicion is that the bike/geo is sensitive to weight distribution, and the aggressive position some folks have leads to a rearward weight bias.
Looking at your photo, it appears you're on the smallest frame that would fit, which is great for liveliness and acceleration, but the amount of drop you have is likely compensated for by a slightly shortish stem, biasing weight rearward. Again, not a fitter and just a WAG.
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I've read complaints from some on ww and other forums about the real sl8's stability in high speed corners. Others swear its rock solid. My (highly personal) suspicion is that the bike/geo is sensitive to weight distribution, and the aggressive position some folks have leads to a rearward weight bias.
Looking at your photo, it appears you're on the smallest frame that would fit, which is great for liveliness and acceleration, but the amount of drop you have is likely compensated for by a slightly shortish stem, biasing weight rearward. Again, not a fitter and just a WAG.
I have a 120mm stem. My saddle at the time was slightly forward of center.
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She has been built.
Ive taken her for a few rides now and have some perspective. The build was a breeze. Everything routed internally crazy smooth, the BSA threads were a dream and the thru axles are the same. I took a file to the brake mounts and tried to remove the overspray as neatly as possible. The brakes mounted very flat. I had to source the front mount brake adapter from a local shop(they actually removed it from an Aethos they had so I could get my build done quickly). Ill go through a parts list and then give impressions.
My specs: 188cm tall, 91.4cm inseam,and I weigh 74-76kg
Frame: X68(duh) in a size 56
Handlebars: Ullicyc T4 Ultimate 36/120
Wheel: 9Velo CD Wide 50/58(ceramic bearings and Ti freehub)
Groupset: SRAM Force E1 w/PM. 10/36 cass and 48/35 chainrings. 160mm Paceline rotor front. 140 CLX-R rotor rear
Chain: SRAM 12spd Flat top. Purple. Waxed.
Saddle: Ryet 3D Romin copy...picture has Selle Italia SLR
Pedals: Onirii Ti extended SPD-SL(maybe switching to Ultegra 4mm extended)
Der Hander: Silca 3d Ti
Tires: Pirelli Pzero Race TLR RS 30mm setup tubeless with Silca 2.0 and RideNow valves(just slashed my tire open on my last ride...8mm cut in my brand new tire. Sealant everywhere....yay)
First impressions: the bike feels super compliant. It sprints quickly and gets up to speed faster than I can. Turning is a dream and sharp as a tack. I am in love with the internal cable routing and it looks so stupid clean.
Going downhill is another story. Its sloppy at high speeds. I recently went on a fast group ride and above 38mph it was a bit sketchy. Going dead straight downhill wasnt bad but cornering as speeds felt unstable. I am not the best descender or corner taker. I'd love some insight if anyone else feels this way or if I set it up poorly for descending, obviously a longer wheelbase would be more stable. I did put my saddle back a few mm today to test the weight balance, Ill report back.
I did go 52mph down a rippin hill and passed some real fast bois tho, so that was fun.
She is good looking 😉
How much does she weight?
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I've fit 32c GP5000 on my genuine Tarmac SL8 with the same XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external no problem. The tires stretch to around 34mm at the rim.
https://youtu.be/BtuLvRT1u-c?si=XtC1aiMUr91yt2AA
Same for me
At what PSI do you inflate them ?
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She is good looking 😉
How much does she weight?
Thank You! She weighs 7.4kg. Bars are heavy for the spec, they have a wedge style attachment that could be lighter and a few other things too. Im guessing I could get this below 7kg for sure.
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I have to change my handlebar..
Any recommendations? ;D nothing super expensive ofc
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I have to change my handlebar..
Any recommendations? ;D nothing super expensive ofc
Fake Darimo looks good with fake SL8
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Hi All,
I have a fake SL8 from Taiwan Eisen. It was one of the first released in November 2024 and the fork is the light one (321gr, uncut, naked carbon finish).
No issue so far but, considering some of the incidents, I would like to replace the fork with the new reinforced one.
I have asked to Vivian from TanTan but she does not want to sell me only the fork! (I do not know why...).
Any idea on how to get the reinforced fork ?
I also need to buy a new handlebar, 38X110mm, "Roval-like" style. Where can I found a good one ?
Thank you in advance!
p.s.: if someone is ordering a frame from TanTan and the delivery Country is italy, I could add my fork and contribute to the delivery costs.
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Hi All,
I have a fake SL8 from Taiwan Eisen. It was one of the first released in November 2024 and the fork is the light one (321gr, uncut, naked carbon finish).
No issue so far but, considering some of the incidents, I would like to replace the fork with the new reinforced one.
I have asked to Vivian from TanTan but she does not want to sell me only the fork! (I do not know why...).
Any idea on how to get the reinforced fork ?
I also need to buy a new handlebar, 38X110mm, "Roval-like" style. Where can I found a good one ?
Thank you in advance!
p.s.: if someone is ordering a frame from TanTan and the delivery Country is italy, I could add my fork and contribute to the delivery costs.
I have a 380x110cmbar from Tan Tan Available as I have swapped to Darimo style 380x120cm. I'm surprised they will not sell you one its Tan Tan. She give you a reason?
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Vivian asked for the invoice and, when I explained I did not have it, she told "Sorry, we can't sell it to you, please understand".
I pushed a bit but she said they do not want to sell... :-\
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Vivian asked for the invoice and, when I explained I did not have it, she told "Sorry, we can't sell it to you, please understand".
I pushed a bit but she said they do not want to sell... :-\
Did you communicate via email on the initial purchase?
I get that they may not want to sell a fork to someone that didn't buy a frame. Not sure why, but I'm guessing they've got a decent reason.
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On the topic of handlebars.
Since Tantan wasn't really forthcoming after having messed up and shipped the wrong handlebar I treated myself (and the bike) to Light Carbon's HBR17 in size 360x100. Looks very much like Ullicyc T4 Ultra but with a 3-bolt solution for the computer mount. Weighed in at 309g naked and 351g with top cap, bolt and computer mount - including gopro mount underneath for light. I asked nicely and the supplied an adapter for SL8->their spacer.
Still waiting for the bar wrap but I have done about 190km on 2 rides and so far I like it. Much prefer the 360mm instead of the 400 that Tantan shipped. But most of all I really like the looks and how that curvy little thing is just waiting for a pair of steady hands... 8)
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Nice bars! I was debating those also but went with the T4 bc I really like the no external clamp bolts around the steerer. BTW the T4 does have 3 bolts for computer mount but its two below and one out front.
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Did you communicate via email on the initial purchase?
I get that they may not want to sell a fork to someone that didn't buy a frame. Not sure why, but I'm guessing they've got a decent reason.
We communicated via Whatsapp and she immediately asked for the prove I bought the frame from them..
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I've fit 32c GP5000 on my genuine Tarmac SL8 with the same XM Carbon Speed wheels with 26mm internal 34 external no problem. The tires stretch to around 34mm at the rim.
https://youtu.be/BtuLvRT1u-c?si=XtC1aiMUr91yt2AA
Hey Patrick did you say you were getting a frame?
If so when is it due?
Someone has beaten you to the YT post. Lol
https://youtu.be/NH_cto3UxyA?si=Gz4YONdntJo6Jjmw
Don’t think you should be worried really 😂
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For those looking to order an X68, here is my journey so far.
As I posted in another thread, I ordered the X68 from TanTan on June 26th and the frame was delivered on August 19th. Roughly 7 weeks from order to delivery. It was delivered via UPS, as of yet, no additional cost for customs or tariffs. $719 for the frame kit and $160 for shipping.
The quality control (or lack thereof) for my frame/fork is questionable at best. There is a scratch on the right fork leg and small area on the seat tube just under the seatpost hole that didn’t get thorough paint coverage.
In the grand scheme of things, these are minor. The major annoyance is that the handlebar/stem does not fit around the steerer tube. From what I can tell, the diameter of the stem opening is undersized. I have an EXS Aerover handlebar/stem that does fit the steerer tube. The fork is the heavier fork, I think it weighed in at 406 grams.
Also, the clearance in the drive side chainstay for the Di2 cable (installing 12 speed Ultegra groupset) to the rear derailleur is very tight and took some effort to get the cable through. I haven’t tried running the brake hose through the non-drive side chainstay yet, so fingers crossed.
None of these are dealbreakers, but buyer beware.
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Question to my American Brethren who has recently ordered from TAN TAN, how much was shipping which I assumed included taxed and how did it go? any issue delays etc?
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From TanTan last night
"The painting specialist's wife was ill, so he took some time off to care for her. All painting work was delayed. We are currently expediting the painting process."
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From TanTan last night
"The painting specialist's wife was ill, so he took some time off to care for her. All painting work was delayed. We are currently expediting the painting process."
Looks like only one guy painting the frames no wonder its 20-30 days!
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Question to my American Brethren who has recently ordered from TAN TAN, how much was shipping which I assumed included taxed and how did it go? any issue delays etc?
Shipping was $160 I think, which included taxes and tariffs at the time. But I ordered before the major tariffs kicked in. I had zero issues with shipping. My box looked pretty good when it arrived and everything was wrapped well in foam sheets.
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Shipping was $160 I think, which included taxes and tariffs at the time. But I ordered before the major tariffs kicked in. I had zero issues with shipping. My box looked pretty good when it arrived and everything was wrapped well in foam sheets.
So if there us still shipping offer with taxes are customs now in the US being more thorough checking shipments?
US guys always asking about shipping and taxes obviously
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So here's a short update on my bike:
Ordered in march
Wrong painting by tantan
Month long delays until new paint job
Broken fork (light version)
Another 5 weeks since exciting time for the new fork which is not even painted
Despite that, the seat post does not fit into the frame, it's too loose sideways, but i can buy an OEM one
To sum it up: Would never buy again the frame and never again at tantan
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Took my bike to the mechanic today to get the brake mounts properly faced.
Honestly, I should have done this before I built it. The brakes were never 100% perfect – no rubbing when the wheel spun, but they weren’t sitting dead-centre on the rotor. Under braking the pad engagement wasn’t even on both sides, unlike a properly finished frame.
On the road it felt fine most of the time, but out of the saddle there was a small “dink” noise that became annoying.
Worth noting: these frames don’t come faced. To the eye they might look okay, but the bottom bracket shell and brake mounts aren’t machined flat and level like the genuine SL8.
The BB itself has been fine, but the shell is painted right up to the edge of the threads. On the real SL8 this area is faced clean to bare carbon for a perfectly flat surface. Mine looks neat, but it isn’t truly faced, so I’m having that done as well to make sure everything is aligned.
After swapping bars, I had a headache with the front caliper – every time I tightened it, it would shift slightly. In the end I took it to the pros.
Could not find a facing tool on Aliexpress at all and for the cost and how often it would get used not worth buying one.
Will be interesting to hear what the LBS mechanic thinks
Second this
BB was faced by myself, but it's hard to find a bike shop which has a tool for the brakes and which is willing to do the job.
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So if there us still shipping offer with taxes are customs now in the US being more thorough checking shipments?
US guys always asking about shipping and taxes obviously
I don't know about current taxes and shipping. Vivian told me at the time that they have a way of shipping that 'includes' tariffs....I would reach out to her and see what she says about it in this new environment.
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For Sander and others looking at saving some seatpost weight-rec'd my "f12" style carbon parts today-the top plate is 17g vs 10 for the zrace yokes, but it supports the rails the entire length of the plate. It'll also need a m5 barrel nut, so another couple of grams. Going to go that way anyhow as I don't really trust the yokes after having one snap.
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I don't know about current taxes and shipping. Vivian told me at the time that they have a way of shipping that 'includes' tariffs....I would reach out to her and see what she says about it in this new environment.
Try use the same method as everyone shilling from China
Consolidated Shipping.
Shipping agents in China bundles a large shipment together and pre pays taxes basically
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For those looking to order an X68, here is my journey so far.
As I posted in another thread, I ordered the X68 from TanTan on June 26th and the frame was delivered on August 19th. Roughly 7 weeks from order to delivery. It was delivered via UPS, as of yet, no additional cost for customs or tariffs. $719 for the frame kit and $160 for shipping.
The quality control (or lack thereof) for my frame/fork is questionable at best. There is a scratch on the right fork leg and small area on the seat tube just under the seatpost hole that didn’t get thorough paint coverage.
In the grand scheme of things, these are minor. The major annoyance is that the handlebar/stem does not fit around the steerer tube. From what I can tell, the diameter of the stem opening is undersized. I have an EXS Aerover handlebar/stem that does fit the steerer tube. The fork is the heavier fork, I think it weighed in at 406 grams.
Also, the clearance in the drive side chainstay for the Di2 cable (installing 12 speed Ultegra groupset) to the rear derailleur is very tight and took some effort to get the cable through. I haven’t tried running the brake hose through the non-drive side chainstay yet, so fingers crossed.
None of these are dealbreakers, but buyer beware.
Damn that sucks. But you wille be able to install the Bars. Just use sandpaper on the inside of the bar to grind a little bit off. You will get it to fit.
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Damn that sucks. But you wille be able to install the Bars. Just use sandpaper on the inside of the bar to grind a little bit off. You will get it to fit.
I contacted EXS and was able to order the SL8 spacer kit for the Aerover bars. I originally had those bars on a Trek Emonda that I got rid of, but I kept the bars.
The bars that came with the X68 are just gonna be a wall hanger until I figure out what I wanna do with them.
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Hi All,
I have a fake SL8 from Taiwan Eisen. It was one of the first released in November 2024 and the fork is the light one (321gr, uncut, naked carbon finish).
No issue so far but, considering some of the incidents, I would like to replace the fork with the new reinforced one.
I have asked to Vivian from TanTan but she does not want to sell me only the fork! (I do not know why...).
Any idea on how to get the reinforced fork ?
I also need to buy a new handlebar, 38X110mm, "Roval-like" style. Where can I found a good one ?
Thank you in advance!
p.s.: if someone is ordering a frame from TanTan and the delivery Country is italy, I could add my fork and contribute to the delivery costs.
Received my Elita One Sl8 rep bars, there's an ugly round spot and the branding and finish is awful.
380x90mm 327 grams.
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Anyone running 32c tires on xmcarbonspeed 26iw? Does it have any room to spare especially in the fromt?
Im actually running 32c on 28iw in the front and 32c on 26iw on the rear. Usually the fork had more clearance than the rear so this combo fits most 32c frames
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Anyone running 32c tires on xmcarbonspeed 26iw? Does it have any room to spare especially in the fromt?
Im actually running 32c on 28iw in the front and 32c on 26iw on the rear. Usually the fork had more clearance than the rear so this combo fits most 32c frames
Yes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtuLvRT1u-c
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Currently en route. Based on my previous TanTan order, I reckon it should arrive middle of October LoL
So within the past 3 weeks I've had a significant breakthrough regarding my overall bike fit. I've spent basically four years chasing that final 95th to 99th percentile in terms of comfort, sit bone symmetry on the saddle, and pedaling efficiency. Lots of experimenting with cleat shims and saddle tinkering. You don't realize how much the human body can adapt to be sightly uncomfortable...until you both feel and understand what actual saddle/bike comfort feels like. I should make a bro science video on this...
Anyway, I have an even better grasp now on how my bikes should truly "feel." Looking forward to translating that on the X68 so I can put the frame through my normal testing.
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@patliean1 what colour is that? It looks great!
I was just about to pull the trigger on an SL8 clone last week, but got sidetracked after my brand new car got wrecked by some idiot on a cell phone.
Now that my blood pressure is nearly back to "normal" I'll get back to bike shopping.
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@patliean1 what colour is that? It looks great!
I was just about to pull the trigger on an SL8 clone last week, but got sidetracked after my brand new car got wrecked by some idiot on a cell phone.
Now that my blood pressure is nearly back to "normal" I'll get back to bike shopping.
I think the color code is YS3233 if you looking at Vivian current post on instagram
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Currently en route. Based on my previous TanTan order, I reckon it should arrive middle of October LoL
So within the past 3 weeks I've had a significant breakthrough regarding my overall bike fit. I've spent basically four years chasing that final 95th to 99th percentile in terms of comfort, sit bone symmetry on the saddle, and pedaling efficiency. Lots of experimenting with cleat shims and saddle tinkering. You don't realize how much the human body can adapt to be sightly uncomfortable...until you both feel and understand what actual saddle/bike comfort feels like. I should make a bro science video on this...
Anyway, I have an even better grasp now on how my bikes should truly "feel." Looking forward to translating that on the X68 so I can put the frame through my normal testing.
The frame color and branding are fantastic! ;)
Is the brand brushed aluminum?
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Currently en route. Based on my previous TanTan order, I reckon it should arrive middle of October LoL
So within the past 3 weeks I've had a significant breakthrough regarding my overall bike fit. I've spent basically four years chasing that final 95th to 99th percentile in terms of comfort, sit bone symmetry on the saddle, and pedaling efficiency. Lots of experimenting with cleat shims and saddle tinkering. You don't realize how much the human body can adapt to be sightly uncomfortable...until you both feel and understand what actual saddle/bike comfort feels like. I should make a bro science video on this...
Anyway, I have an even better grasp now on how my bikes should truly "feel." Looking forward to translating that on the X68 so I can put the frame through my normal testing.
Nice Choice of Colours Patrick.
Looking forwards to hearing you thought and comparisons on this.
Given the controversial nature of this frame will there be a YT video, if there is I'm sure you will have to be careful with your words!
Such as inspired by ;D ;D
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Currently en route. Based on my previous TanTan order, I reckon it should arrive middle of October LoL
So within the past 3 weeks I've had a significant breakthrough regarding my overall bike fit. I've spent basically four years chasing that final 95th to 99th percentile in terms of comfort, sit bone symmetry on the saddle, and pedaling efficiency. Lots of experimenting with cleat shims and saddle tinkering. You don't realize how much the human body can adapt to be sightly uncomfortable...until you both feel and understand what actual saddle/bike comfort feels like. I should make a bro science video on this...
Anyway, I have an even better grasp now on how my bikes should truly "feel." Looking forward to translating that on the X68 so I can put the frame through my normal testing.
That will do nicely…as we say in the UK
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Here's an update on the fork: I received a new fork from TanTan in the mail today. All seems good, and the new fork is definitely heavier than the previous one. It is 401g uncut.
This new fork was not painted that well compared to the original one. There is quite a lot of overspray on the brake mounts, and they painted the inside of the thru axle, which was not painted on the original fork. But it's not a big deal i guess I can just sand it down.
also the old one had like a metal insert on the end where you screw in the thru axle and this one does not have it. (there is one gold washer on the thru axle and one in the fork on the old one)
Edit: there was no metal insert in the old one i must've remembered it wrong.
I will update the post after I replace it on the bike.
At leats you got the new fork, I got promised a new one and nothing happened since 6 weeks, not even painting.
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Finally I'm back on the road. Fork took long to arrive, but the paint color matches perfectly and I survived my first two short rides 8)
Put some titanium parts, new solid oil bearings (way cheaper than CS https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html (https://www.kugellager-shop.net/acb495h6-5-bo-max-sl-steuersatz-kugellager-vollkugelig.html)) and a lighter wheelset plus cassette on the bike which is now about 6,85 kg with everything on. I'm still loving that color, it really shines and pops in the sun!
Wish me luck, that everything works out in the future. It really rides lovely!
At least you are back on the road 8)
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Hello everyone!
I'll tell you about my story of ordering a TT-X 68 frame.
I wrote to Vivian on August 14, confirmed the order on the same day and paid via Ali Pay.
I ordered a frame in size 56, matte black with the Seraph logo.
Today Vivian wrote that my frame is ready for shipment. He sent a photo and the tracking number of the parcel.
I'll write later when the parcel arrives to me and I can examine the frame in detail.
(https://ibb.co/NgymqGmL)
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Received my frame today. Ordered from tantanbicycles.com for $719 -$10 coupon 'ROADBIKE' + $180 shipping to Florida. Ordered July 14, it shipped on August 20, then handed over to UPS in California on Sept 9, ground shipping to Florida and received Sept 15. I was not billed for any tariffs.
I got the chameleon white and it has a nice pearlescent shine to it. Brake mounts, BB face, headset bearing cups all look fine.
Weights:
878g 52cm frame, derailleur hangers, no axles
422g fork, uncut
340g 400 x 90 mm handlebars
154g seat post and saddle clamp
I'm going to build it up with:
$1,087 Ultegra Di2 R8150 groupset
$338 XCADEY Ventus carbon crankset power meter
$608 EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep
$300 other parts
$889 frameset
===
$3,222
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Received my frame today. Ordered from tantanbicycles.com for $719 -$10 coupon 'ROADBIKE' + $180 shipping to Florida. Ordered July 14, it shipped on August 20, then handed over to UPS in California on Sept 9, ground shipping to Florida and received Sept 15. I was not billed for any tariffs.
I got the chameleon white and it has a nice pearlescent shine to it. Brake mounts, BB face, headset bearing cups all look fine.
Weights:
878g 52cm frame, derailleur hangers, no axles
422g fork, uncut
340g 400 x 90 mm handlebars
154g seat post and saddle clamp
I'm going to build it up with:
$1,087 Ultegra Di2 R8150 groupset
$338 XCADEY Ventus carbon crankset power meter
$608 EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep
$300 other parts
$889 frameset
===
$3,222
The BB and mounts look fine, but they haven’t been faced at the factory. You can see this on the BB where the paint goes right up to the edge of the shell. On the original SL8, that surface is properly faced, leaving a ring of exposed carbon.
I eventually had my mounts faced because I just couldn’t get the front brake caliper set up perfectly—it always rubbed once torqued down. After facing, everything aligned properly.
It really comes down to luck—you might have issues, or you might not. Even some big brands don’t factory-face their frames. It wouldn’t be such a problem if disc brakes didn’t need to be set up so precisely—dead center, level, and perfectly upright!
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Not looking as bad as other ones I seen where the paint covers the whole of the BB sleeve. Looking at a genuine SL8, the Specialized bonded BB threads don't have an outside lip on the sleeve, so when the BB gets perfectly machined you can see the bare carbon. On the X68, to get to the carbon you'll have to go beyond the alu sleeve lip. I may be wrong, would love to see a frame after being faced
I'm waiting for my X8 details to be finalized. Still not sure to get it on that lovely British racing green or bare carbon and get creative. Either way I'll be gently facing the BB and go at it on the brake mounts with diamond cutting bits for the facing tool
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Not looking as bad as other ones I seen where the paint covers the whole of the BB sleeve. Looking at a genuine SL8, the Specialized bonded BB threads don't have an outside lip on the sleeve, so when the BB gets perfectly machined you can see the bare carbon. On the X68, to get to the carbon you'll have to go beyond the alu sleeve lip. I may be wrong, would love to see a frame after being faced
I'm waiting for my X8 details to be finalized. Still not sure to get it on that lovely British racing green or bare carbon and get creative. Either way I'll be gently facing the BB and go at it on the brake mounts with diamond cutting bits for the facing tool
What do you think of this one ?
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Received my frame today. Ordered from tantanbicycles.com for $719 -$10 coupon 'ROADBIKE' + $180 shipping to Florida. Ordered July 14, it shipped on August 20, then handed over to UPS in California on Sept 9, ground shipping to Florida and received Sept 15. I was not billed for any tariffs.
I got the chameleon white and it has a nice pearlescent shine to it. Brake mounts, BB face, headset bearing cups all look fine.
Weights:
878g 52cm frame, derailleur hangers, no axles
422g fork, uncut
340g 400 x 90 mm handlebars
154g seat post and saddle clamp
I'm going to build it up with:
$1,087 Ultegra Di2 R8150 groupset
$338 XCADEY Ventus carbon crankset power meter
$608 EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep
$300 other parts
$889 frameset
===
$3,222
Looks nice! Would you mind taking a short video with the frame in the light to show how the frame colour changes?
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What do you think of this one ?
Is that an x68 faced? Thanks for the pic. So if that far is required to achieve 68mm spacing it means Specialized also got rid of the sleeve lip. I'll be getting the Vernier callipers on it then. Cheers
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Is that an x68 faced? Thanks for the pic. So if that far is required to achieve 68mm spacing it means Specialized also got rid of the sleeve lip. I'll be getting the Vernier callipers on it then. Cheers
Not a x68 but a SL8 like. It was only to show what it looks like.
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Looks nice! Would you mind taking a short video with the frame in the light to show how the frame colour changes?
Sure but it's not a complete color change like other chameleon paint jobs. It's more like an oyster pearl glitter in the reflection.
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What do you think of this one ?
Just showing off ;D.
But yes that like the real SL8 surface is a bare carbon surfaced pre faced, not like my X68 where they spray it :-\.
Thing is if your fitting a carbon crank the paint thickness might affect the Q factor of the crank when installing so need to be faced back really.
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@Sander2177
My frame will probably will arrive early to mid October. I only requested a frameset, no handlebars. Awaiting for the UPS tracking to update which means it's still on the ocean shipping container LoL
Anything I should look out for in terms of potentially breaking or stripping bolts? Seatpost clamp? Saddle clamp bolts? Any other tidbits?
Since Im going with my own cockpit I'll have to decide what's compatible with the supplied headset bearings. Shame the frame doesn't work with an original SL8 seatpost because I actually purchased a spare last year.
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Just showing off ;D.
But yes that like the real SL8 surface is a bare carbon surfaced pre faced, not like my X68 where they spray it :-\.
Thing is if your fitting a carbon crank the paint thickness might affect the Q factor of the crank when installing so need to be faced back really.
Showing off the (not perfect) job of Tantan 😁.
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@Sander2177
My frame will probably will arrive early to mid October. I only requested a frameset, no handlebars. Awaiting for the UPS tracking to update which means it's still on the ocean shipping container LoL
Anything I should look out for in terms of potentially breaking or stripping bolts? Seatpost clamp? Saddle clamp bolts? Any other tidbits?
Since Im going with my own cockpit I'll have to decide what's compatible with the supplied headset bearings. Shame the frame doesn't work with an original SL8 seatpost because I actually purchased a spare last year.
The main issues people have flagged so far are pretty minor:
• Paint overspray – sometimes on thru-axle threads or bottom bracket threads, worth checking and cleaning up.
• Bottom bracket & brake mounts – not always faced from the factory, so it’s hit or miss. Sometimes everything lines up fine, sometimes it needs a bit of work.
• Seatpost/saddle clamp – no torque specs supplied, so I just use the SL8 manual as a reference (grease and paste applied as per that). A few people have had cracks when tightening the back bolt on the saddle, but that seems more like over-torquing.
• Head tube transition spacer – on some bikes the back end rubs slightly on the top of the head tube. I had the same issue; fixed it by trapping a bit of sandpaper upside down and moving the bars side to side until it cleared.
Overall, nothing major — just small things that either come down to luck with the frame you get or a bit of extra prep when building.
Seatpost fitment
Quick update on this: a guy I know fitted a 15° original post (not zero). His feedback was:
“Hi mate, no issues for me. I used plenty of carbon paste and tightened it to where I was happy 😁. No photos to hand but honestly, it’s just a seatpost in a frame 🤷🏻♂️ — fitted as it should. Been running it for the last 2 weeks, no problems. Did a fast 60km on Saturday and 2–3 interval sessions. The old post/seat clamp used to creak, but this one’s been mustard.”
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Seatpost fitment
Quick update on this: a guy I know fitted a 15° original post (not zero). His feedback was:
“Hi mate, no issues for me. I used plenty of carbon paste and tightened it to where I was happy 😁. No photos to hand but honestly, it’s just a seatpost in a frame 🤷🏻♂️ — fitted as it should. Been running it for the last 2 weeks, no problems. Did a fast 60km on Saturday and 2–3 interval sessions. The old post/seat clamp used to creak, but this one’s been mustard.”
Most excellent. Thank you!
The reason I have a spare SL8 15mm setback seatpost is because the original one would creak terribly only over very rough pavement. I thought somehow I must have cracked it. But when I installed the replacement post I had the same creaking problem.
Turns out I didn't read the installation instructions from Specialized. As soon as I applied grease to all surfaces on the seatpost wedge (minus the surface that interacts with the actual seatpost) the creaking immediately went away. 6Nm is all I needed too. Had the same problem with my Ventum NS1 which grease resolved it. So I basically apply grease to the wedges across all my bikes now.
I'll confirm if the genuine SL8 post works. Shame that mid-October is almost the end of daily outdoor riding weather here in Chicago. Funny enough, I was speaking to some of my local Specialized reps earlier today. I might be able to borrow an S-Works level SL8 for content. Would be funny including the X68 in the same video ;D
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Sure but it's not a complete color change like other chameleon paint jobs. It's more like an oyster pearl glitter in the reflection.
Thanks-i like it. Reminds me of the finsih on my first road bike.
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Funny, yeah. And probably inviting some nasty letters from Specialized's legal department (not that they'd have grounds but its never stopped them).
I'd echo the build comments above. My spacer rubbed in the front and removed some paint, no real worry.
And yeah, the seatpost can creak in a number of areas. You found one. The rear barrel nut can also creak where it rubs against the cradle.
Other than that, and the usual brake niggles with unfaced mounts, it's all pretty normal.
FWIW, I think the spec of 15nm on the thru axles is a bit much.
The other complaint, which you're avoiding by not using the clone bars, is that the computer mounts are made of cheese and it seems that a bunch have broken. I use a magcad and a Bolt, so wouldn't know.
I'm curious about the post as well as I'd like to use a hy zero.
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Funny, yeah. And probably inviting some nasty letters from Specialized's legal department (not that they'd have grounds but its never stopped them).
I'd echo the build comments above. My spacer rubbed in the front and removed some paint, no real worry.
And yeah, the seatpost can creak in a number of areas. You found one. The rear barrel nut can also creak where it rubs against the cradle.
Other than that, and the usual brake niggles with unfaced mounts, it's all pretty normal.
FWIW, I think the spec of 15nm on the thru axles is a bit much.
The other complaint, which you're avoiding by not using the clone bars, is that the computer mounts are made of cheese and it seems that a bunch have broken. I use a magcad and a Bolt, so wouldn't know.
I'm curious about the post as well as I'd like to use a hy zero.
15nm same as real deal? I’m sure it was 13nm
Either way I grease both ends and tighten to 9Nm more than enough!
I have had no issue with the post carbon paste for and back inside seat tube and on the front of the wedge and on the post its self.
Grease the bolts and barrels thoroughly and on the hole the bolts penetrate through the post.
I use like a small artists brush and I apply carbon paste to the saddle rails and cradle and voilà!
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I'll confirm if the genuine SL8 post works. Shame that mid-October is almost the end of daily outdoor riding weather here in Chicago. Funny enough, I was speaking to some of my local Specialized reps earlier today. I might be able to borrow an S-Works level SL8 for content. Would be funny including the X68 in the same video ;D
Heh you should come to Florida in the winter. The weather is perfect for riding along the ocean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyLYEjDKHmw
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15nm same as real deal? I’m sure it was 13nm
Either way I grease both ends and tighten to 9Nm more than enough!
LOL. The manual says 15. I have zero idea why, other than maybe the stock Roval wheels like crazy preload. Yeah, I've never used more than 9 or less on my ti t/a's.
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After 1300km tantan computer mount is dead ::)
Broke today on very fast descent, but spotted on right time and my Karoo is ok 8)
I got this mount for SL8 handlebars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809494370689.html
Used to be $20 but now it's $30. Made of metal. Weighs 36g with the Garmin mount. Fits the contour of the handlebars well.
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I got this mount for SL8 handlebars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809494370689.html
Used to be $20 but now it's $30. Made of metal. Weighs 36g with the Garmin mount. Fits the contour of the handlebars well.
It's the same model I also purchased for the Elita One handlebar (a replica or very similar to the Roval Rapide). The one that came with the handlebar was identical, but made of plastic: the threaded seat of the GPS base fixing screw stripped immediately.
I was undecided whether to get this model or the MagCAD for the Wahoo Bolt....I decided for this model because I might need to mount a front light.
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Got an update on my replacement fork, it got painted and will be sent within the next days.
Hopefully my built will be complete soon.
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I’m looking at this bike and I’m really one step away from buying it. It just seems too good of a deal. 705 di2, only 7.2KG for this price is a steal. Is there something I’m not seeing? What do you guys think?
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It feels like scam but I can't say it definitely is.
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I dont know, the site seem legit. Im also tolking whit someone on whatapp.
https://tantanbikes.com/72KG-full-bike-R7170-chameleon-white-color-Full-Internal-Cable-Disc-Road-bike-TT-X68-Ultegra-Di2-Groupset-Complete-Bicycle-p6306924.html
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IMHO its legit and the cost checks out for sure.
- frame + bar ~$700
- groupset ~$1000
- wheelset ~ $600
Great value and saves you building your own, unless you want to.
Couple years ago I thought the gravel bike from Sava I got was too good too be true vs what I could get local for the same price. Two years later and over 10K km of hard gravel riding, its all good. The only things I replaced was the aluminum wheels that bike came with. Frame good, groupset shimano grx etc.
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I’m looking at this bike and I’m really one step away from buying it. It just seems too good of a deal. 705 di2, only 7.2KG for this price is a steal. Is there something I’m not seeing? What do you guys think?
Seen posts where other have bought it price is about right
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This listing just feels dodgy.
https://tantanbikes.com/Ink-Green-Paint-24-Speed-Disc-Brake-Road-Bike-TT-X42-Carbon-Normal-Wheels-Wheeltop-Hydraulic-Electronic-Shifting-p6565762.html
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This listing just feels dodgy.
https://tantanbikes.com/Ink-Green-Paint-24-Speed-Disc-Brake-Road-Bike-TT-X42-Carbon-Normal-Wheels-Wheeltop-Hydraulic-Electronic-Shifting-p6565762.html
NOTE: The bike stand pictured is not included.
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Interested in buying a complete bike. Is their real domain tantanbikes.com or tantanbicycles.com?
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Price is good for their blend of components, but to me, the bike is heavy. My old Scott addict clocks in at about 15.5 lbs. This TanTan seems heavy to me.
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This bike sucks down hill. I have no idea why Im getting such a wobbly, uncontrolled feeling. I just threw on a buddies carbon wheelset and went up and down a local hill where I can get up to 40mph. Around 30 it feels like a wiggly noodle while cornering. It starts to shake at 32mph and I have to gently pull the rear brakes. Wheels are balanced well, headset is snug with zero play. Ive tried the knees on the top tube, shifting my weight fore and aft, pedaling constantly, and keeping my weight off the saddle and only on the outside pedal...nothing helps.
Ive reached out to Vivian to see if she may have an answer bc it feels very unstable and unsafe.
Anyone else figure this issue out?
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This bike sucks down hill. I have no idea why Im getting such a wobbly, uncontrolled feeling. I just threw on a buddies carbon wheelset and went up and down a local hill where I can get up to 40mph. Around 30 it feels like a wiggly noodle while cornering. It starts to shake at 32mph and I have to gently pull the rear brakes. Wheels are balanced well, headset is snug with zero play. Ive tried the knees on the top tube, shifting my weight fore and aft, pedaling constantly, and keeping my weight off the saddle and only on the outside pedal...nothing helps.
Ive reached out to Vivian to see if she may have an answer bc it feels very unstable and unsafe.
Anyone else figure this issue out?
Do the handlebars turn freely? I once had an issue where headset and frame rubbed, this was enough to throw the stability off. Crazy such a small amount of rubbing resists the self centering of the front wheel
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Do the handlebars turn freely? I once had an issue where headset and frame rubbed, this was enough to throw the stability off. Crazy such a small amount of rubbing resists the self centering of the front wheel
May be something to that, all of the stock covers seem to have some friction with the headtube.
I've not had the issue at all so can't help. Mine's been rock solid at up to 45mph. Somethings up if you're getting a speed wobble.
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Price is good for their blend of components, but to me, the bike is heavy. My old Scott addict clocks in at about 15.5 lbs. This TanTan seems heavy to me.
The addict was always one of the lightest bikes around, the x68 is on par with a pro/expert level sl8 with a similar build. It ain't an Aethos.
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A bit late to the party, but still, here I am now :)
I've ordered x68 frame and started building it last week. x68 frame with wheeltop groupset but without chainset since I wanted to go with 52-36 chainrings. Been struggling a bit last days with BB and crankset and with breaks since this is my first build ever so yea, not stressful at all.
I will post the whole story and bike parts after I'm done, but I have a few questions:
* The bolt that is used to bleed the break caliper looks weak and I want to replace it, anyone know what type that bolt is or should I just take it out and take it with me to the shop?
* I want to buy additional derailleur hangers, does anyone know the part number or something that I can search by?
Thank you in advance!
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I will post the whole story and bike parts after I'm done, but I have a few questions:
* The bolt that is used to bleed the break caliper looks weak and I want to replace it, anyone know what type that bolt is or should I just take it out and take it with me to the shop?
* I want to buy additional derailleur hangers, does anyone know the part number or something that I can search by?
Thank you in advance!
I can’t insert the link, but if you type this on AliExpress you will find what you’re looking for.
There is a long cage version for mounting cassettes over 34 teeth, and the standard version.
The product code is this: Tarmac SL8 Bicycle Rear Gear Derailleur Hanger S206000001 Thru Axle Dorpout.
As for the caliper bolt, I’ve never seen it before. I don’t know if it’s a common spare part or if you need to ask Wheeltop.
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Do the handlebars turn freely? I once had an issue where headset and frame rubbed, this was enough to throw the stability off. Crazy such a small amount of rubbing resists the self centering of the front wheel
Yea they turn freely. Im gonna try adjusting it again tho to see. Ill try to sand down the top cap if it rubs.
The wiggling feels like it starts around the seatpost tho and eventually starts causing the whole bike to feel very 'unplanted' is the best way to describe it.
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What wheels are you running? The only bike I've ever experienced speed wobbles was on my genuine SL8. Any sort of crosswind while descending above 30mph/50kph is when it happened. Later on, I determined most of the issue was I was running the 1st-gen CRW 50/60 wheels.
The SL8 is finicky. When setup properly it's more crosswind stable than other aero-ish bikes. But improper setup (wheel choice, tire size, rider weight distribution) I've found it to be worst. This is where I prefer heavier frames.
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What wheels are you running? The only bike I've ever experienced speed wobbles was on my genuine SL8. Any sort of crosswind while descending above 30mph/50kph is when it happened. Later on, I determined most of the issue was I was running the 1st-gen CRW 50/60 wheels.
The SL8 is finicky. When setup properly it's more crosswind stable than other aero-ish bikes. But improper setup (wheel choice, tire size, rider weight distribution) I've found it to be worst. This is where I prefer heavier frames.
I was running the 9Velo CD Wide 50/58 setup tubeless with Pirelli Pzero Race TLR RS tires, 30mm wide.
I then borrowed my buddy's Lun Hyper D45s with GP5K and and latex tubes. Both setups have been unstable. Yes there's been wind both times.
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I had/have the same issue with the bike. I doesn't feel to stable in fast and windy descents. Had a absolute nightmare descent in April where bike began wobbling at 80kph and later in June I had a not so nice descent which was due to a lot of wind. I have redone the headset since as I always had a little play in the headset. I haven't done really fast descents since, but also balancing your wheels can make a change, I think.
the bike didn't feel unstable in windy conditions when riding in the flat, there it and the wheels felt really predictable
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Is there anyone here who has an x68 in size 44 and could tell me what size bolts (M5-??) I need to mount brake calipers for 160mm front and 140 or 160mm rear disc rotor?
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I had/have the same issue with the bike. I doesn't feel to stable in fast and windy descents. Had a absolute nightmare descent in April where bike began wobbling at 80kph and later in June I had a not so nice descent which was due to a lot of wind. I have redone the headset since as I always had a little play in the headset. I haven't done really fast descents since, but also balancing your wheels can make a change, I think.
the bike didn't feel unstable in windy conditions when riding in the flat, there it and the wheels felt really predictable
I have zero play in the headset and I'm still getting that feeling. I finished up balancing the wheels(the rear was really bad and would shake the bike in the stand; doesnt do that anymore) yesterday and rode it today...its raining here so I didnt dare descend on it as its first test back. Will wait for dry weather to descend and see.
I sanded the underside of the top cap so its no longer contacting the frame. I also re-tightened the headset to be a bit looser than it previously was but still feel no play.
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Anyone confirmed the tarmac seatpost from Hylix or HY or whatever fits in the X68? If not, Ill probably order one and check for myself when my frame arrives
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Anyone confirmed the tarmac seatpost from Hylix or HY or whatever fits in the X68? If not, Ill probably order one and check for myself when my frame arrives
I have tested the Hylix seatpost, fits, haven't tested it on the road if it holds, but I think so
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Anyone confirmed the tarmac seatpost from Hylix or HY or whatever fits in the X68? If not, Ill probably order one and check for myself when my frame arrives
Read page 116
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https://youtu.be/_KpjHvCl9sI?si=WvtSijNWkBuDg4tG
This kind of crap is why I really am skeptical of youtube reviews. Oh yeah, none of this stuff has any issues...
Patrick does a more balanced job without alienating his partners.
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Is this small depression in the carbon normal?
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Is this small depression in the carbon normal?
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Obvious impression from the hanger. Could be in the paint, hard to tell from the photo. Most of the load there is in compression anyway, so its unlikely to be an issue.
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Finished my build.
52cm chameleon white with 400 x 90 mm handlebars
$889 frameset
$1,087 Ultegra Di2 R8150 groupset
$338 XCADEY Ventus carbon crankset power meter
$608 EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep
$300 other parts
===
$3,222
Weight 7.16kg/15.8 lb
with Shimano PD-ES600 pedals (279g), computer mount, no bottle cages.
Notes:
- I didn't get the plug that holds the front derailleur backing plate so when I undid the bolts, the backing plate fell into the frame. You need to leave one of the bolts attached, but loose enough so you can rotate the hanger out of the way. I also didn't get the seatpost cover. But I did get the 160mm only front brake adapter.
- I stripped the rear saddle clamp nut trying to torque it to 6 Nm. I replaced it with an M5 barrel nut.
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Anyone here tested the X68 against an actual SL8? Wonder how big the difference is to an SL8 or any other high end race bike.
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Finished my build.
52cm chameleon white with 400 x 90 mm handlebars
$889 frameset
$1,087 Ultegra Di2 R8150 groupset
$338 XCADEY Ventus carbon crankset power meter
$608 EliteWheels Edge 50mm deep
$300 other parts
===
$3,222
Weight 7.16kg/15.8 lb
with Shimano PD-ES600 pedals (279g), computer mount, no bottle cages.
Notes:
- I didn't get the plug that holds the front derailleur backing plate so when I undid the bolts, the backing plate fell into the frame. You need to leave one of the bolts attached, but loose enough so you can rotate the hanger out of the way. I also didn't get the seatpost cover. But I did get the 160mm only front brake adapter.
- I stripped the rear saddle clamp nut trying to torque it to 6 Nm. I replaced it with an M5 barrel nut.
Nice build! Looks slick.
Curious how much those elite wheels weigh?
How does the bike ride?
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Nice build! Looks slick.
Curious how much those elite wheels weigh?
How does the bike ride?
Thanks! The wheels weigh: front 632g, rear 730g, 1,362g pair, no rim tape.
I've only ridden around my neighborhood for now, but first impressions are that it feels very light and easy to accelerate. I got 165mm cranks and I find them easier to spin at higher cadences. And the Ultegra Di2 shifts so quick and smooth on the front and rear.
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Anyone here tested the X68 against an actual SL8? Wonder how big the difference is to an SL8 or any other high end race bike.
I believe Sander has. Patty is gonna be doing a review here soon too.
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Anyone here tested the X68 against an actual SL8? Wonder how big the difference is to an SL8 or any other high end race bike.
Any comparison is going to be subjective so not sure if there is much point imo.
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Hi I have a question and not sure if it’s already been asked. I was in an accident in Spain which broke my sl8 in half, wheels have been replaced under crash warranty, di2 somehow survived.my bike is at a friends house in Spain due to me braking my arm and a few ribs. The other half doesn’t know how bad the bike is 🤣 but I come across this and was wondering as it’s almost identical do they do the decals on when ordering or is that something I have to do once I’ve received it so she never finds out. Thank you
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Hi I have a question and not sure if it’s already been asked. I was in an accident in Spain which broke my sl8 in half, wheels have been replaced under crash warranty, di2 somehow survived.my bike is at a friends house in Spain due to me braking my arm and a few ribs. The other half doesn’t know how bad the bike is 🤣 but I come across this and was wondering as it’s almost identical do they do the decals on when ordering or is that something I have to do once I’ve received it so she never finds out. Thank you
Please, read some topics before asking this kind of question.
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Hi I have a question and not sure if it’s already been asked. I was in an accident in Spain which broke my sl8 in half, wheels have been replaced under crash warranty, di2 somehow survived.my bike is at a friends house in Spain due to me braking my arm and a few ribs. The other half doesn’t know how bad the bike is 🤣 but I come across this and was wondering as it’s almost identical do they do the decals on when ordering or is that something I have to do once I’ve received it so she never finds out. Thank you
I don't think TanTan will do decals for another brand but you can ask them. If not, you can get decals on Etsy or eBay.
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I just had my first little 44k testride on my build.
I ordered it on 23rd of April and I received it ... not exactly sure anymore ... end of May, so slightly over a month.
Its black matte, so basically no extra paintwork.
I payed 710,80 € including shipping to Germany (779 USD).
Size 58
Frame: 835g
Fork (uncut): 389g (I think I took about 10g off when I cut it)
Handlebar (120x400mm): 357g
Seatpost (380mm): 193g
Overall the packaging and the parts looked good when they arrived.
The brakemounts werent really well faced. I used a file to file it roughly flat. Worked well enough I think.
I have the same "problem" I have seen in this thread before that the little copper-colored insert for the through axle was stuck to the frame in the rear, while for the fork it can be easily removed.
I took my sweet time with the build. Part of it was that I wasnt sure what other parts I wanted.
I finally ordered the Elite Wheels Drive II on June 11th and they took their sweet time to arrive (middle of August I think).
Even then I was partly lazy and partly hesitant. As I said it was my first build and especially cutting the fork and the brake lines were a bit scary to me.
In the end I learned a lot and it wasnt really as bad as I thought it would be. I usually service my old bike myself, so I am somewhat confident in my abilities and my ability to learn.
So then to the testride. It was mostly about gaining confidence in the bike and in my work I guess :P
Up until know I have been riding a 2012 Rose Xeon RS. Aluminium, Rim Brakes, Mechanical Ultegra Groupset. Nothing fancy, but enough to ride 40 km/h average in relatively flat sportives.
The new bike feels nice, responsive, fast ... though I have to say I expected .... more? in comparison to my Alu-Bike.
Dunno how to say it, to be honest. It does feel faster though. That being said .. who knows what makes it faster ... is it the frame, is it the wheels .. or is is the more aggressive position I have to ride with this bike...
I am 194cm tall ... the 58 frame is .. probably just about okay. The saddle height is roughly the same. I have the seatpost as far out as the indicator allows. I am tempted to pull it out just a little bit more. The handlebar is quite a bit lower than on my old bike, though.
Two seemingly more common problems in this thread were a slipping seatpost and rubbing spacers.
I installed the seatpost with some carbon paste and torqued it to 6nm. So far it didnt slip even a bit.
I also have no problems with the spacers, they have enough room to move without rubbing on the frame.
So overall I am quite satisfied with the build.
MY position on the bike is on the extrem end for me. For tomorrow I have a 100k ride planned.
If I am satisfied with that ride I will use the bike for the "Münsterland Giro" on October 3rd.
After all that I will have to decide wether I want to keep the frame or get something with a more relaxed geomety for me ... maybe the LCR018-D.
Edit:// Obviously I still have to add the handlebar tape. Wanted to make sure I'm satisfied with the position of the shifters.
They are relatively, traditionally "straight". I tried to have them angled inwards at first. Many say thats more comfortable.
Maybe I didnt try it long enough to get used to it, but I didnt really like it, so I put them on straight.
Edit_2:// As seen on the picture - but without the saddlebag, the bottle and the Garmin - it weighs 7.5 kg.
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Nice! Sounds like it went together smoothly.
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That’s for sure is a big drop to the handle bars!
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Sooo. I did a 100 km ride today (solo as usual) and I have gathered some more experience, thoughts and impressions.
Keep in mind that I will be comparing it to the bike I rode until recently. Obviously there will be many factors ... frame, wheels, more aggressive positon etc...
Dont know if anyone is even interested, but it helps me to put it into writing and maybe it'll help someone here...
Old: 2012 Rose Xeon RS - Aluminium - Rim Brakes - Mechanical Ultegra 10 speed with 50-34t and Vision Team 35 wheels ~8.5kg
New: X 68 - Carbon - Disc Brakes - 105 di2 12 speed with 52-36t and Elite Wheels Drive II ~7.5kg
So first things first. It was the fastest solo 100 km ride I did this year. 31 km/h average with 410 meters elevation. Slightly less windy that usually here, but from a constant direction.
Got several PRs without even really trying, not by much though.
So, is it faster?
In general I would say so, yes. It accelerates better. Its easier to get to a slightly higher speed. It holds the speed easier.
Though I do find it hard to just attribute it to "its just faster".
I dont have a powermeter on this or my old bike, so I dont have any hard numbers, but I did notice a slighty elevated heartrate compared to my usual rides. Obviously there can be many reasons for that.
That might be in part to my body adapting to a new position, but to me it also felt like ... the bike just wants to go faster and makes it easier for me to put more power down to do just that.
Fit
As I already said its just about workable for my height I think. The saddleheight is just about the same, the drop is quite a bit bigger, though.
That’s for sure is a big drop to the handle bars!
I was worried about that, but its honestly not even that bad. Dont get me wrong ... my lower back is certainly noticing it for now, but I think its something I can adapt to.
Then again ... Im 35 now .. not getting any younger :-X
Ride Comfort
Thats one of the bigger things I noticed. Again, this is probably because of serveral factors. Additionally to frame and wheels, which could be a factor, I now have 28c tires, my old bike has 25c.
The increase in ride comfort is really noticable. It takes bumps and rougher surfaces really well.
mechanical vs electronic groupset
Also impressive .. I mean a well tuned mechanical groupset, which mine is ... is already reeaally nice.
But the electionic shifting ... even faster, even smoother ... impressive.
rim-brakes vs disc-brakes
This I am more undecided about ... I quite like my rim-brakes and even in wet conditions I never had any problems with them.
The disc brakes ... yeah, they brake ... dunno ... I dont think I would need them, but now I have them I guess.
Yeah, thats about it...
I had fun with the new bike. Its a really nice ride. At the end both my hands where going numb though ..
Usually I only have that with my left hand.
My conclusion is that the bike, especially compared to an older bike, does make a difference.
But it also isn't a magic bullet.
Addendum
I have these bottle cages on the bike. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007958377200.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.67dd5c5fiqHOfU&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
On the down tube those are okay, but on the seat tube it requires a really weird angle to get the bottle back in there ... I think I will just buy the carbon bottle cages from Elite...
Edit:// Another thing I noticed ... maybe its just because of the gearing ... I had a higher rpm than usual.
Yesterday 77 and today 79.
Usually I would range from 73 to at most 77 ... average 74 to 75 I guess
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Sooo. I did a 100 km ride today (solo as usual) and I have gathered some more experience, thoughts and impressions.
Keep in mind that I will be comparing it to the bike I rode until recently. Obviously there will be many factors ... frame, wheels, more aggressive positon etc...
Dont know if anyone is even interested, but it helps me to put it into writing and maybe it'll help someone here...
Old: 2012 Rose Xeon RS - Aluminium - Rim Brakes - Mechanical Ultegra 10 speed with 50-34t and Vision Team 35 wheels ~8.5kg
New: X 68 - Carbon - Disc Brakes - 105 di2 12 speed with 52-36t and Elite Wheels Drive II ~7.5kg
So first things first. It was the fastest solo 100 km ride I did this year. 31 km/h average with 410 meters elevation. Slightly less windy that usually here, but from a constant direction.
Got several PRs without even really trying, not by much though.
So, is it faster?
In general I would say so, yes. It accelerates better. Its easier to get to a slightly higher speed. It holds the speed easier.
Though I do find it hard to just attribute it to "its just faster".
I dont have a powermeter on this or my old bike, so I dont have any hard numbers, but I did notice a slighty elevated heartrate compared to my usual rides. Obviously there can be many reasons for that.
That might be in part to my body adapting to a new position, but to me it also felt like ... the bike just wants to go faster and makes it easier for me to put more power down to do just that.
Fit
As I already said its just about workable for my height I think. The saddleheight is just about the same, the drop is quite a bit bigger, though.
I was worried about that, but its honestly not even that bad. Dont get me wrong ... my lower back is certainly noticing it for now, but I think its something I can adapt to.
Then again ... Im 35 now .. not getting any younger :-X
Ride Comfort
Thats one of the bigger things I noticed. Again, this is probably because of serveral factors. Additionally to frame and wheels, which could be a factor, I now have 28c tires, my old bike has 25c.
The increase in ride comfort is really noticable. It takes bumps and rougher surfaces really well.
mechanical vs electronic groupset
Also impressive .. I mean a well tuned mechanical groupset, which mine is ... is already reeaally nice.
But the electionic shifting ... even faster, even smoother ... impressive.
rim-brakes vs disc-brakes
This I am more undecided about ... I quite like my rim-brakes and even in wet conditions I never had any problems with them.
The disc brakes ... yeah, they brake ... dunno ... I dont think I would need them, but now I have them I guess.
Yeah, thats about it...
I had fun with the new bike. Its a really nice ride. At the end both my hands where going numb though ..
Usually I only have that with my left hand.
My conclusion is that the bike, especially compared to an older bike, does make a difference.
But it also isn't a magic bullet.
Addendum
I have these bottle cages on the bike. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007958377200.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.67dd5c5fiqHOfU&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
On the down tube those are okay, but on the seat tube it requires a really weird angle to get the bottle back in there ... I think I will just buy the carbon bottle cages from Elite...
Edit:// Another thing I noticed ... maybe its just because of the gearing ... I had a higher rpm than usual.
Yesterday 77 and today 79.
Usually I would range from 73 to at most 77 ... average 74 to 75 I guess
My opinion is you increase in your RPM is causing your increase HR. I definitely notice that when I am riding.
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Hello!
I have a question about choosing the size of the brake rotors. Which size would you recommend 140mm or 160mm?
Do I understand correctly that if I choose 160 mm, then an adapter is needed for the rear rotor? Could you send me a link to aliexpress, where can I buy an adapter for a 160 mm rotor?
Will this adapter fit the frame? https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=GgkIVMn
Thanks!
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Hello!
I have a question about choosing the size of the brake rotors. Which size would you recommend 140mm or 160mm?
Do I understand correctly that if I choose 160 mm, then an adapter is needed for the rear rotor? Could you send me a link to aliexpress, where can I buy an adapter for a 160 mm rotor?
Will this adapter fit the frame? https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=GgkIVMn
Thanks!
On this fork, you can only use a 160 mm rotor on the front because it uses a non-standard 70 mm adapter plate. Normally with a standard 74 mm flat mount adapter plate, you can flip it either way to take 160 or 140 mm.
On the rear, yes you will need an adapter like the one you linked to use 160 mm rotors. A 140 mm brake won't need an adapter. You can do whichever you prefer. I did a 140 mm rear because that's how Shimano usually does it, it saves a tiny bit of weight, and I have no problems locking the rear brake anyway. But SRAM usually does 160 mm on the rear.
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Depends. Heavier rider in mtns might prefer 160, but I'm fine with 160f 140 rear, as is pretty much everyone in the World Tour.
That adaptor will work in the rear if you want 160. Keep in mind that the x68/sl8 can only use 160f with the supplied (from tantntan or specialized) adaptor, as the front fork mount spacing is unique.
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Thanks a lot for the tips. I think I'll leave 160mm-140mm in this form.
I have another question. I want to assemble a bike right away with a pes P515 power meter - https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=jfTbV1S . I will only take connecting rods 172,5. Ultegra 52/36 front. Which carriage do I need to purchase in order for a power meter with connecting rods to fit my bike?
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Thanks a lot for the tips. I think I'll leave 160mm-140mm in this form.
I have another question. I want to assemble a bike right away with a pes P515 power meter - https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=jfTbV1S . I will only take connecting rods 172,5. Ultegra 52/36 front. Which carriage do I need to purchase in order for a power meter with connecting rods to fit my bike?
Do you mean the bottom bracket? It uses the most common BSA threaded, 68mm wide, 24mm spindle bottom bracket such as the Shimano SM-BBR60.
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Size 56. Color is Ys3481
Shipping took about 4 weeks.
EDIT: I forgot to remove both thru-axles when I initially weighed the frame and fork
Frame: 895g Fork: 399g Seatpost: 187
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Glad to see they didn't give you special treatment, like prepping the brake mounts etc. ;D
Looking forward to your build and ride impressions.
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Glad to see they didn't give you special treatment, like prepping the brake mounts etc. ;D
Looking forward to your build and ride impressions.
Thank you gents. I'm trying to really temper my expectations now that I've ridden a few TanTans and a few high-end Western brands. The GR201 gravel bike from TanTan is great. But their X38 Scott Foil RC clone was hilariously sloppy.
I did a dry fit of the BSA bottom bracket for each cup. Despite the minor debris in the frame threads, I was actually able to fully thread both cups just by hand with no hinderance. BB Infinite would approve! That's a good sign. I also have a genuine SL8 15mm setback seatpost that I'm tempted to try and install LoL
My Genuine SL8 (Pro) size 56
Frame: 827g
Fork: 397g
Seatpoast: 169g
Total: 1393g
My X68 came in at a total of 1538g. A +145g difference in weight. I'm hoping that difference is more carbon rather than more paint :-X
EDIT: I forgot to remove both thru-axles when I weighed the frame and fork.
Frame: 895g Fork: 399g Seatpost: 187
Total frameset: 1481g....actually only 88g heavier than a genuine SL8
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Looks like there's easily 40+g of extra gloss on that frame... .
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i everyone,
could someone please help me with the correct screw length for mounting the front and rear brake calipers? I have Shimano type A bolts with a total length of 18.5 mm, but they seem too long. I assume the supplied adapter for the front brake is for a 160 mm rotor — can someone confirm that?
Thanks a lot!
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Ridden 100km so far with some efforts and sprints thrown in. I have some thoughts regarding overall riding dynamics, but I'll save them for another time. The braking performance and ergonomics of the new Sram E1 levers is outstanding. If I didn't hate the shifting dynamics of Sram AXS I could be convinced to fully convert over from Shimano Di2.
-Brake caliper mounts/facing: CRAPPY. Probably the worst of any frame I've built. I did some sanding but it appears more is needed. Which is odd because the facing on TanTan GR201 was dang near perfect out of the box. Basically impossible to align the rear caliper without sanding. Also, I am literally using the same caliper bolts from Tarmac SL8. The rear caliper bolts are fine. But the front caliper bolts either are too long (which are a very standard length for all road frame forks) or TanTan simply didn't chase/tap the threads deep enough into the fork. I had to use two additional spacers to each bolt out of fear of cross threading. This isn't ideal. And now there some sound resonance and vibration under heavy braking.
-Seatpost interface to the frame is slopppppy. Even with carbon paste I had to bump the torque from 6.2Nm to 8Nm. So far it's holding.
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Ridden 100km so far with some efforts and sprints thrown in. I have some thoughts regarding overall riding dynamics, but I'll save them for another time.
Good stuff! Enjoyed the yt on this too, nice job dude.
Question... Have you still got the sl8 and will you be doing a side by side ride comparison?
Is this frame covered in secret sauce or sloppy seconds?
Enquiring minds want to know:-)
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Ridden 100km so far with some efforts and sprints thrown in. I have some thoughts regarding overall riding dynamics, but I'll save them for another time. The braking performance and ergonomics of the new Sram E1 levers is outstanding. If I didn't hate the shifting dynamics of Sram AXS I could be convinced to fully convert over from Shimano Di2.
-Brake caliper mounts/facing: CRAPPY. Probably the worst of any frame I've built. I did some sanding but it appears more is needed. Which is odd because the facing on TanTan GR201 was dang near perfect out of the box. Basically impossible to align the rear caliper without sanding. Also, I am literally using the same caliper bolts from Tarmac SL8. The rear caliper bolts are fine. But the front caliper bolts either are too long (which are a very standard length for all road frame forks) or TanTan simply didn't chase/tap the threads deep enough into the fork. I had to use two additional spacers to each bolt out of fear of cross threading. This isn't ideal. And now there some sound resonance and vibration under heavy braking.
-Seatpost interface to the frame is slopppppy. Even with carbon paste I had to bump the torque from 6.2Nm to 8Nm. So far it's holding.
Same shoddy issues I had with mine.
Brake mounts and BB are p1ss poor basically luck if you have no issues
I managed to screw the bolts in on the front fork mount.
6.2nm for the seatpost and holding for me so far however someone told me they were told 9Nm I think by Tan Tan
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There may be something to buying a complete bike. I did change both the bb and brake calipers on mine (Wheeltop to Campy calipers). Everything was smooth. Maybe they do an in house clean up of the surfaces on complete bikes?
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In my case, the seatpost was slipping at 6.2 Nm, even with some generic carbon paste. I was hesitant to increase the torque any further—but based on the comments above, maybe I should have. Eventually, I tried the method shown in this TraceVelo video/short: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/TKxoJrTYCZ4, and it worked for me.
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Ridden 100km so far with some efforts and sprints thrown in. I have some thoughts regarding overall riding dynamics, but I'll save them for another time. The braking performance and ergonomics of the new Sram E1 levers is outstanding. If I didn't hate the shifting dynamics of Sram AXS I could be convinced to fully convert over from Shimano Di2.
-Brake caliper mounts/facing: CRAPPY. Probably the worst of any frame I've built. I did some sanding but it appears more is needed. Which is odd because the facing on TanTan GR201 was dang near perfect out of the box. Basically impossible to align the rear caliper without sanding. Also, I am literally using the same caliper bolts from Tarmac SL8. The rear caliper bolts are fine. But the front caliper bolts either are too long (which are a very standard length for all road frame forks) or TanTan simply didn't chase/tap the threads deep enough into the fork. I had to use two additional spacers to each bolt out of fear of cross threading. This isn't ideal. And now there some sound resonance and vibration under heavy braking.
-Seatpost interface to the frame is slopppppy. Even with carbon paste I had to bump the torque from 6.2Nm to 8Nm. So far it's holding.
It looks beautifull :)
How does the sanding of the mounts work? Just some 240 sandpaper and patience? Of is a file needed? How do you make sure just the surface of the mounts a faced and no paint of the side chip off?
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It looks beautifull :)
How does the sanding of the mounts work? Just some 240 sandpaper and patience? Of is a file needed? How do you make sure just the surface of the mounts a faced and no paint of the side chip off?
You need to file and remove material, referencing the plane of the screw and the disc. It may happen that it's not perfectly level due to excess paint or poorly sanded carbon. Proceed by trial, removing very little material at a time.
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Finally I received my replacement fork.
Haven't checked the colormatch yet, cause I'm on a business trip this week.
My seatpost fit is also sloppy, it is too wide so the post is not fixed and can slightly turn to left/right.
Will check an OEM post, maybe that one will fit better.
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Have to wonder if they either changed suppliers or whether there are different tolerances for the different size molds. My seatpost in a 49cm frame fits like a glove. Odd...
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Drum roll ladies and gents...The eagerly awaited video of the X68 build is up
https://youtu.be/WhVb730XtTk?si=oNdQMXci5oKyQyYV
Thanks Patrick for such a good and conservative initial review. Since my frame will be slowly making its way across the sea soon, I was waiting for this vid to come up
Two points to consider regarding the finishing details:
First, I'm not waiting to see if I'll be lucky or not with the brake mounts or BB overspray. I'll be getting my sand block, diamond files, reamers and facing tool straight at it. This is done to 90% of any new build coming into the workshop, and I know in advance that this one won't be the worst case. I have many horror stories of reputable brands and their expensive frames being well off, even the ones who say do not face, its been done before and bla bla...However, facing is not the final solution of calliper mounting/ rubbing problems. Too many forces at play when brakes are applied, from bolt thread squareness , pistons and pads play, correct bleeding etc. Finally a good eye when mounting is essential
Regarding the seatpost, if it works with a bit of carbon paste great, if not, I wont be confident tighten it to 10Nm. In that case I would be looking at some 3M tape or alike reinforcement, or even a thin layer of carbon to wrap up the sloppiness
Once again, thanks Patrick!
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Thank you Patrick for the 1st impression on the bike, very well equiped.
At the end you are saying the bike feels 70-75% similar to the SL8, I wanted to know, compare to which version (pro/expert or the S-works)?
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Anyone in Europe has a 380mm seatpost who wouldn't mind swapping with me for a 300mm? I think it is a tad short for me.
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Thank you Patrick for the 1st impression on the bike, very well equiped.
At the end you are saying the bike feels 70-75% similar to the SL8, I wanted to know, compare to which version (pro/expert or the S-works)?
Patrick had the pro/expert.
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It looks beautifull :)
How does the sanding of the mounts work? Just some 240 sandpaper and patience? Of is a file needed? How do you make sure just the surface of the mounts a faced and no paint of the side chip off?
To prevent paint chipping, you can use a razor blade to cut a line in the paint at the edge of what you're facing.
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To prevent paint chipping, you can use a razor blade to cut a line in the paint at the edge of what you're facing.
Thanks for the tip, sounds like a smart plan :)
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Hi everybody,
I‘m about to order the Tantan x68 frame too. I want to build the bike with seperate handlebar/stem configuration, since I love the looks of not integrated aero handlebars. Probably even going for a gravel bar with flare.
Tantan does not offer a stem though. Anybody got a tip for a stem with spacers fitting this frame?
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Hi everybody,
I‘m about to order the Tantan x68 frame too. I want to build the bike with seperate handlebar/stem configuration, since I love the looks of not integrated aero handlebars. Probably even going for a gravel bar with flare.
Tantan does not offer a stem though. Anybody got a tip for a stem with spacers fitting this frame?
You can get an SL7 stem because that's what Specialized equips on the lower end SL8s.
e.g. alloy: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808188709728.html
carbon: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809535610708.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808759291001.html
You also need to get different spacers and the transitions from an SL8 frame to SL7 stem, but actually Specialized sells them for not too much money.
Part # S222500009 has the old SL7 spacers that are squared off at the rear, and you get both open and closed top covers.
Part # S242500003 has SL8 aero spacers that are more tapered at the rear, and the way they connect to each other is different. It only comes with an open top cover.
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For those that had a stuck TA Washer, how did you remove it safely? There is zero gap between my washer and frame. Ive tried using a razor blade tip before to try and pry it out. It broke the razor blade....any other tips or keep trying with razor blades?
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I just left it in there for the time being...
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If the washer is ferrous metal, a magnet from an old platter hard drive might be able to grip it.
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For those that had a stuck TA Washer, how did you remove it safely? There is zero gap between my washer and frame. Ive tried using a razor blade tip before to try and pry it out. It broke the razor blade....any other tips or keep trying with razor blades?
By looking at your pictures, I am 99% sure that TanTan gets their X68 at the same place where YohoBikes get their SL8.
My washer for the thru axle is stuck like that.
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Wouldn't surprise me if they were getting it from somewhere else. I want to replace my TA with genuine SL8 SL road axles and want this damn washer out. Lol
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After much fiddling with a razor blade, then files, and finally drill bits, I got the washer out. That was incredibly stressful. I was so nervous I was gonna drill through my frame. I had to use a nail and hammer to pop it out once I'd almost drilled a slot in the brass. It was stuck in there really tight.
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Mine sticks in there too, but I can get it out from the inside (wheel hub side) as the hole for the thru axle in the frame is slightly larger than the washer internal diameter.
A small flat screw driver or nail punch resting on the tiny exposed lip of the washer and then a gentle hit with a hammer pushes it out.
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Finally completed my bike.
- Xiamen Carbon Speed D50CU-33 T1100 wheels
Michelin Power Cup 30mm (will get replaced by Veloflex Corsa 32mm)
Ultegra Di2 w. DuraAce clamps & cage
SRAM Red E1 crank w. Sigeyi Axo powermeter w. Shimano rings (34/50)
Ztto cassette (11-30)
Campa discs 160mm f/r
CEMA bottom bracket(ceramic)
Chaser direct hanger
Chaser brake adapters
Elita carbon saddle clamp
Titanium bolts all around
Shimano brake pads with titanum back plates
7g bottle cages
Shimano DuraAce pedals
MagCAD Garmin mount
Carbon saddle (china stuff), will be replaced by BERK Dila
ZIPP Service Course CX bar tape
Total weight is 6,65kg complete
Haven't done a proper ride yet, but the front section is significant softer than the one on my SWORKS SL6 w. a ZIPP carbon stem and 3t carbon handlebar.
The bottom bracket section is also not as stiff as the SL6, but not that drastic.
The fork is the heavier one (406g), the color matching is not perfect, but decent.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251023/temp/8p4ngb4r.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9081/8p4ngb4r_jpg.htm)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251023/temp/lei8jqu5.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9081/lei8jqu5_jpg.htm)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251023/temp/ku7swrvd.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9081/ku7swrvd_jpg.htm)
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(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251023/temp/nc7xfvrb.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9081/nc7xfvrb_jpg.htm)
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251023/temp/yww2uyqc.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9081/yww2uyqc_jpg.htm)
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Mine sticks in there too, but I can get it out from the inside (wheel hub side) as the hole for the thru axle in the frame is slightly larger than the washer internal diameter.
A small flat screw driver or nail punch resting on the tiny exposed lip of the washer and then a gentle hit with a hammer pushes it out.
My washer was perfectly flush with the internal diameter of the dropout, almost as if they molded the little bastard in there lol
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New tires
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251024/temp/y5ep3dtz.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9082/y5ep3dtz_jpg.htm)
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New tires
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/251024/temp/y5ep3dtz.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9082/y5ep3dtz_jpg.htm)
What a lovely build! very nice :-)
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This frame being offered by Tantan is an unfortunate consequence of the high demand and interest in counterfeits. A few sellers, like Airwolf, have moved from open molds to mostly selling copies of other frames. I have no idea if these are better quality than other copies, but I doubt it. Afterall, where does the money spent go? Probably not into doing actual engineering work.
LOL at them being overstock from a Western brand. This doesn't happen unless that Western brand sells a catalog frame. It does happen for open molds or for molds where someone has bought exclusivity for several years but doesn't own the design. That is not the case for Cervelo, Specialized, Factor, and Pinarello, which are also not using these factories.
There are also visible differences between this frame and legit SL8 if you look close enough.
There is in my opinion are no obvious visible differences between the two bikes having both.
my 54cm frame was 788g but this is a plain UD gloss frame
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Has anyone come across a 0 offset seatpost 380mm on the AliExpress.... Any links?
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Has anyone come across a 0 offset seatpost 380mm on the AliExpress.... Any links?
I have the Spcycle R088 but use an SL8 seat post. On that basis, the SPCycle R088 0 offset seat post should fit the SL8. Image attached (not sure how to post links from mobile app).
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Has anyone come across a 0 offset seatpost 380mm on the AliExpress.... Any links?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809924607376.html?
The issue with this and the Specialized post is that they are significantly heavier than the 15 due to the clamp.
Hylix made a 365mm of theirs, which is much lighter, but I can't find one currently.
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I got a Hy seatpost for the SL8 off Ali. 310mm 15 or 0 offset Superlight but don't know if it will fit yet since my X68 frame is on the way!
So...useless comment at the moment
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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809924607376.html?
The issue with this and the Specialized post is that they are significantly heavier than the 15 due to the clamp.
Hylix made a 365mm of theirs, which is much lighter, but I can't find one currently.
This says Roubaix SL8, but no mention of Tarmac. Do they use the same seatpost?
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This says Roubaix SL8, but no mention of Tarmac. Do they use the same seatpost?
I think you're right-that's a very confusing ad. The zero offset they're showing is compatible with the Roubaix sl8, why they combined the ad with the 15 degree Tarmac sl8 leads to confusion. The Tarmac zero offset uses the Roubaix style clamp, so without looking carefully at the ad I was confused.
The Roubaix post is shaped like an sl6 and doesn't fit an sl8.
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Finally finished the X68 build.
Here's a rundown of the parts:
My specs: 5'-7" tall, 29.5" inseam (170.2 cm tall, 74.9 cm inseam)
Frame: X68 size 52
Handlebars: EXS Aerover 40x90
Wheelset: Shimano Ultegra WH-R8170 C50
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra 12 speed
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 52/36, 170mm
Chain: Shimano Ultegra 12 speed
Saddle: Specialized Romin
Pedals: Look Keo 2 Carbon
Handlebar tape: PRO Race Comfort
Tires: Continental Gatorskin 28mm
Tubes: Tubolito TPU
Overall weight is 7.8 kg or 17lb 5oz - a little heavier than I expected.
Had a couple issues with the build. As stated in an earlier post, the opening in the supplied handlebar did not fit the fork steerer tube. I opted to use the EXS Aerover that I had ordered a while ago and never used. Installing the Di2 wire to the rear derailleur took a little effort, there was/is some sort of obstruction in the chainstay and it took a little time with the Park Tool internal routing kit to squirrel the wire around the obstruction. The other real pain in the A$$ was the front derailleur mount. It must have not been manufactured correctly or the mounting location on the seat tube was not aligned properly. When I mounted the front derailleur and tightened it to the correct torque, the cage was angled outward or away from the chainring/frame. Once I bent the derailleur hanger back (toward the rear wheel), the front derailleur installed perfectly and the small set screw was able to be used to align with the chainring. Shifts great now. I did have to bend it three times total to get it correct, I didn't want to bend it too much, so small bends until correct.
Other than that, the bult was fairly straight forward. Bottom bracket threaded all the way in by hand, then torqued to specs. Brake mounts were not faced, but not a big deal to me. A little brake rub, but not a deal breaker.
This is the 7th bike build for me, and was a little more challenging than the others (2013 Cervelo R3, 2015 Specialized Tarmac SL5, 2017 Giant TCR Advanced Pro, 2020 Scott Addict RC, 2021 BMC Teammachine, 2022 Trek Emonda SLR).
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I'm interested in x68. What's the best way to purchase one within europe?
I saw on their page that they don't offer tax handling or similar and that it needs to be done by buyer.
Would be great if someone could share their experiences.
It would be my first bigger purchase from china so be kind to me 😁
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I'm interested in x68. What's the best way to purchase one within europe?
I saw on their page that they don't offer tax handling or similar and that it needs to be done by buyer.
Would be great if someone could share their experiences.
It would be my first bigger purchase from china so be kind to me 😁
Hi,
I ordered mine in August directly from Seraph via WhatsApp.
It cost me €796 all inclusive for shipping to France.
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The paint is colourful enough next time I'm going no decals.
Is this a custom color? Whats the price for a custom color paint at seraph? I´m thinking of ordering a matt one and custom paint it myself (depends on the price)
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You need to contact them via WhatsApp. I paid 200USD for my paint, but there are cheaper colours
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How many cm spacers come with x68 by default?
Edit: found it. Sorry!
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Hello to all
Here is my contribution to all X68 fans.
Currently I have 2 X68's at home. Specifications below:
Frame: X68 size 44
Handlebars: Seraph Carbon handlebar 36cm
Wheelset: Farsports 40mm with Carbon spokes
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 12 speed
Crankset: Shimano 105 50/34, 170mm
Chain: Shimano 105 12 speed
Casette: 16-30 Shimano / Miche (for my son's race limitation)
Saddle: Ryet
Pedals: Shimano Ultegra
Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm
Tubes: Tubolito TPU
Bike weight: 7.0 KG !
Frame: X68 size 56
Handlebars: Seraph Carbon handlebar 36cm
Wheelset: Zen Wheels 50mm with Carbon spokes (1.145g)
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2 12 speed
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 52/36, 170mm
Chain: KMC black 12 speed
Casette: Goldfix 11-34 black
Saddle: Berk Lipa
Pedals: Assioma UNO
Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm
Tubes: Tubolito TPU
Bike weight: 6,95kg
Regarding assembly: none of above 2 bikes have/had any issue at all. Neither with cable routing, neither with facing of brake calippers. The guy that assemblied bikes was actually impressed about the quality of the frame. He stated, that many original brands are much worse in terms of assembly.
On 1st bike stem bolts were oxidised after 2-3 rides and they have sent me replacement.
On 2nd bike, they have sent me silver stem screw which really does not fit to black handlebar. But also that was replaced by them as well.
One more thing that is noticable is that both bikes were ordered same color (white pearl) but mine is far more »snow« white than my son's. Paint guy must have had bad day=) But still, they both look great.
Regarding ride & handling:
The 44 size bike was used by my son. He did aprox 4.000km in 2025, mostly racing. He even crashed 3 times this season, but there is no damage to the frame at all (not counting small scratch at rear axle:/)
I owned S-works Tarmac SL5 disc before. Meaning I am not switching from some bad bike to X68, but still the difference is noticable.
X68 is more stiff (probably also due to thruaxle system instead of QR and SL5 being used for 9 seasons) especially in front end, but at the same time also more comfortable (also switch from 25mm to 30mm tyres does the job).
Haven't done many rides yet, so that's what I can tell so far.
Feel free to ask if you have any more specific questions
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Nice write up. Could you post some pictures of both to show the frame colour difference?
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Here it is:
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Hello to all
Here is my contribution to all X68 fans.
Currently I have 2 X68's at home. Specifications below:
Frame: X68 size 44
Handlebars: Seraph Carbon handlebar 36cm
Wheelset: Farsports 40mm with Carbon spokes
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 12 speed
Crankset: Shimano 105 50/34, 170mm
Chain: Shimano 105 12 speed
Casette: 16-30 Shimano / Miche (for my son's race limitation)
Saddle: Ryet
Pedals: Shimano Ultegra
Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm
Tubes: Tubolito TPU
Bike weight: 7.0 KG !
Frame: X68 size 56
Handlebars: Seraph Carbon handlebar 36cm
Wheelset: Zen Wheels 50mm with Carbon spokes (1.145g)
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2 12 speed
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 52/36, 170mm
Chain: KMC black 12 speed
Casette: Goldfix 11-34 black
Saddle: Berk Lipa
Pedals: Assioma UNO
Tires: Continental GP5000 30mm
Tubes: Tubolito TPU
Bike weight: 6,95kg
Regarding assembly: none of above 2 bikes have/had any issue at all. Neither with cable routing, neither with facing of brake calippers. The guy that assemblied bikes was actually impressed about the quality of the frame. He stated, that many original brands are much worse in terms of assembly.
On 1st bike stem bolts were oxidised after 2-3 rides and they have sent me replacement.
On 2nd bike, they have sent me silver stem screw which really does not fit to black handlebar. But also that was replaced by them as well.
One more thing that is noticable is that both bikes were ordered same color (white pearl) but mine is far more »snow« white than my son's. Paint guy must have had bad day=) But still, they both look great.
Regarding ride & handling:
The 44 size bike was used by my son. He did aprox 4.000km in 2025, mostly racing. He even crashed 3 times this season, but there is no damage to the frame at all (not counting small scratch at rear axle:/)
I owned S-works Tarmac SL5 disc before. Meaning I am not switching from some bad bike to X68, but still the difference is noticable.
X68 is more stiff (probably also due to thruaxle system instead of QR and SL5 being used for 9 seasons) especially in front end, but at the same time also more comfortable (also switch from 25mm to 30mm tyres does the job).
Haven't done many rides yet, so that's what I can tell so far.
Feel free to ask if you have any more specific questions
Hi, congratulations on the bikes, very nice!
Can I ask you the saddle height and saddle-to-handlebar drop on your 56?
I've started building my Spcycle R088...it has a very similar color scheme to yours, but I opted for an off-white with a marbled effect. ;)
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Hi
Not Sure what this measurments will benefit you, but here are details of my position on bike:
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I've started building my Spcycle R088...
Those spacers look borderline criminal
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Those spacers look borderline criminal
It’s all about the high stack for aero didn’t you know
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Hi
Not Sure what this measurments will benefit you, but here are details of my position on bike:
We have very similar measurements, so the aesthetic result will be very similar, thank you. ;)
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Those spacers look borderline criminal
Right....but I still have to cut the fork! ;D
When finished, I should have 20-25mm of spacers under the handlebars.
Unfortunately, the top headset cap doesn't fit the frame well and is left protruding from the frame, exposing the top bearing. The diameter is fine (57mm), but the fork hole isn't centered on the head tube hole, so I need to find another cap compatible with the frame and the Elita One handlebars, such as the Roval Rapide.
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Those spacers look borderline criminal
These could be the final settings....but before cutting the fork above the handlebars I want to finish assembling the frame and do some tests first. ;)
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I'm struggling with the sizing of the x68 / SL8 and seeking advice. I´m 178cm and inseam of 82cm. Saddle height from center bb to top of the saddle is atm 76cm and stem 110.
I currently ride a Scott Addict 20 2015 and a Scott Speedster Gravel 2023, both in 54. Both fit nicely and to be fair i've mainly ridden the gravel lately and love it. https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/tantan-tt-x68-2024-54,tantan-tt-x68-2024-56,scott-addict-10-2015-54,scott-speedster-gravel-20-2023-m54/
According to SL8 sizing i fall exactly between 54 and 56. I tend to go to a 54 atm but i fear that it is too agressive and need a spacer stack of ~2cm to fit me well.
Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
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I'm struggling with the sizing of the x68 / SL8 and seeking advice. I´m 178cm and inseam of 82cm. Saddle height from center bb to top of the saddle is atm 76cm and stem 110.
I currently ride a Scott Addict 20 2015 and a Scott Speedster Gravel 2023, both in 54. Both fit nicely and to be fair i've mainly ridden the gravel lately and love it. https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/tantan-tt-x68-2024-54,tantan-tt-x68-2024-56,scott-addict-10-2015-54,scott-speedster-gravel-20-2023-m54/
According to SL8 sizing i fall exactly between 54 and 56. I tend to go to a 54 atm but i fear that it is too agressive and need a spacer stack of ~2cm to fit me well.
Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
Are you sure the measurements you provided are correct?
I'm 180cm tall, with an inseam of 87cm, and a saddle height of 76.5cm...
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Naiboo, keep in mind that you can always extend position (seat back, longer stem) on 54, whereas on 56 (if it's too big) you are in difficult position.
The seatpost on X68 has 2cm offset. First check this on your existing bike. Then try to catch same reach with stem length.
example: I had size 56 SL5 with 0 offset + 10cm stem. The saddle was in the middle of rails.
I took size 56 X68 with 9cm stem and seat is moved maximum to the front. And this positions is exactly the same as on SL5. So I have no margin anymore, but it fits me perfect.
I suggest you to take 54 and adjust stem length and move the saddle accordingly.
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Are you sure the measurements you provided are correct?
I'm 180cm tall, with an inseam of 87cm, and a saddle height of 76.5cm...
I fell exactly between a 49 and 52. I went with the 49 for a couple reasons, mainly that I think slightly smaller frames feel more nimble and lively under me, and because it allowed for a 110 stem to get the reach I wanted (my experience with short stems has been that they effect steering feel and to some extent stability). My fear was that the greater drop would be an issue. Its not. I do have to run all the spacers, but it doesn't look bad and the bike feels great, is nimble, and I don't have any stability issues downhill at speed despite deep wheels.
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General rule if in between sizes, always go smaller. Always.
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I fell exactly between a 49 and 52. I went with the 49 for a couple reasons, mainly that I think slightly smaller frames feel more nimble and lively under me, and because it allowed for a 110 stem to get the reach I wanted (my experience with short stems has been that they effect steering feel and to some extent stability). My fear was that the greater drop would be an issue. Its not. I do have to run all the spacers, but it doesn't look bad and the bike feels great, is nimble, and I don't have any stability issues downhill at speed despite deep wheels.
Hi, I was referring to the fact that with an 82cm inseam, a 76cm saddle height seems a lot to me...since I pedal more or less at the same height, but with an extra 5cm inseam.
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I'm struggling with the sizing of the x68 / SL8 and seeking advice. I´m 178cm and inseam of 82cm. Saddle height from center bb to top of the saddle is atm 76cm and stem 110.
I currently ride a Scott Addict 20 2015 and a Scott Speedster Gravel 2023, both in 54. Both fit nicely and to be fair i've mainly ridden the gravel lately and love it. https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/tantan-tt-x68-2024-54,tantan-tt-x68-2024-56,scott-addict-10-2015-54,scott-speedster-gravel-20-2023-m54/
According to SL8 sizing i fall exactly between 54 and 56. I tend to go to a 54 atm but i fear that it is too agressive and need a spacer stack of ~2cm to fit me well.
Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
We're the same height, I've only ever ridden size 54 frames. I ride a 120 stem and use 20mm of spacers. Absolutely no issue with my fit on this bike. 56 would probably feel like a tractor if you've only ever ridden 54's. Just my two cents
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Assembly completed and first 30km ride.
Size 52
Ultegra di2
RD Hanger + Upgraded bolts from tiparts
2 sets of wheels: Serenade wheels 55 wave and Alpha wheels tubular with tune hub (on the picture)
BB ceramic from nova ride
Crankset and chainring 52-36, 165mm with power meter from magene.
Old saddle and bottle cages.
Next upgrades:
Lighter saddle and bottle cages.
Change the garmin support which feels really cheap.
Around 3200euros for the complete build. I include the cost of the tools for disc brakes.
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Spent some time test riding a newly built size 52 X68 today. I brought my genuine S-Works SL8 (also size 52) along and did a fair few bike swaps to see if I could feel the difference.
Sadly I couldn't make an accurate comparison as the spec of both bikes are way different. I'm running SRAM Red E1 and he's running Wheeltop so the difference in hood/lever feel alone threw me off quite a lot (SRAM E1 levers just feel too good and being able to comfortably get all 4 fingers under the hoods makes a world of difference when sprinting out of the saddle IMHO).
We also had issues with the front derailleur cage hitting the crank arm due to flex when sprinting out of the saddle (sadly I scratched up his front mech!), but he managed to sort that out by tuning the Wheeltop during our ride.
Got to say, it's a fast bike. He did say multiple times that my bike felt like it rolled faster, but again, that could just be down to spec, specifically tyres as I'm running GP5000 TT TR's and he was running S TR's. That said he was running lighter ZEN Carbon Bike 50/50 deep wheels and I'm running CRW's 40/45's. Again, so much difference in spec, but no doubt about it, the X68 is a fast bike and it rides insanely good for the price, especially when you compare it to how much a genuine S-Works SL8 frameset costs.
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Has anyone ordered the frame with groupset (105 di2 or ultegra di2) directltly from tantan? I am thinking of doing this as I already have a set of wheels I can use.
Any experience or concerns for buying the groupset installed direct from tanran?
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Has anyone ordered the frame with groupset (105 di2 or ultegra di2) directltly from tantan? I am thinking of doing this as I already have a set of wheels I can use.
Any experience or concerns for buying the groupset installed direct from tanran?
Mine came built (with wheeltop) from Tantan. I did it that way to avoid potential build hassles with hoses and caliper alignment. Glad that I did. Subsequent shift to Campy calipers went easy as I suspect tantan cleaned up the mounts for their build.
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Mine came built (with wheeltop) from Tantan. I did it that way to avoid potential build hassles with hoses and caliper alignment. Glad that I did. Subsequent shift to Campy calipers went easy as I suspect tantan cleaned up the mounts for their build.
Thanks—yes, I was hoping to avoid any mounting issues. The cost of buying it directly with Ultegra Di2 installed also seems cheaper than buying and installing the components myself (in the US), and it saves on labor time. As long as the groupset is genuine, it seems like this is the best choice.
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Finally got mine delivered 11/3 (ordered 8/21). Complete build with Ultegra, size 49 (my height is 165cm) with 380x90 bars, white, with the wavy wheels. Had to cut the seatpost and drill the two holes for the battery holder. Changed the saddle to Ryet ultimate, and the bottle cages that came with it couldn't fit a regular bottle so I replaced them with cages from another bike. Installed a k-edge computer mount and will be using assioma duos for power. Replaced the wavy wheels with yoeleos from another bike, and put the wavy wheels on that bike. So far so good! Tested a quick sprint and it felt fast. Gonna go for a proper ride in the weekend coming. Hopefully all goes well.
Edit: I'm in NYC.
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Has anyone ordered the frame with groupset (105 di2 or ultegra di2) directltly from tantan? I am thinking of doing this as I already have a set of wheels I can use.
Any experience or concerns for buying the groupset installed direct from tanran?
I did. 2 bikes. One with 105 Di2 and the other with Ultegra Di2.
Absolutelly no issues.
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So it’s possible to order a frame + groupset? Or are you referring to complete bikes?
I hope it’s genuine Shimano components, right?
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So it’s possible to order a frame + groupset? Or are you referring to complete bikes?
I hope it’s genuine Shimano components, right?
i think he refers to this:
https://www.tantanbikes.com/full-bike-shimano-R8170-ultegra-DI2-groupset-ull-Internal-Cable-Disc-Road-bike-TT-X68-Novatec-D411D412-hubT-X68-bike-p6790494.html
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So it’s possible to order a frame + groupset? Or are you referring to complete bikes?
I hope it’s genuine Shimano components, right?
Hi. I ordered both bikes with seperate groupset. And I assemblied bike on my own.
Also price is much cheaper than in EU =) Any yes, genuine Shimano equipment.
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Hi. I ordered both bikes with seperate groupset. And I assemblied bike on my own.
Also price is much cheaper than in EU =) Any yes, genuine Shimano equipment.
Just to get this straight, you ordered the group set directly at tantan too or from third party at ali?
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Just to get this straight, you ordered the group set directly at tantan too or from third party at ali?
I bought a frame at Seraph (Tan Tan).
They have also arranged groupset for me, but it was not assemblied on a bike.
I got everything in one box and assemblied by myself.
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I'm struggling with the sizing of the x68 / SL8 and seeking advice. I´m 178cm and inseam of 82cm. Saddle height from center bb to top of the saddle is atm 76cm and stem 110.
I currently ride a Scott Addict 20 2015 and a Scott Speedster Gravel 2023, both in 54. Both fit nicely and to be fair i've mainly ridden the gravel lately and love it. https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/tantan-tt-x68-2024-54,tantan-tt-x68-2024-56,scott-addict-10-2015-54,scott-speedster-gravel-20-2023-m54/
According to SL8 sizing i fall exactly between 54 and 56. I tend to go to a 54 atm but i fear that it is too agressive and need a spacer stack of ~2cm to fit me well.
Any suggestions are highly appreciated.
54 for sure
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Hello All,
I have been lurking and "researching" for a frame as I updated a bike with 105 mechanical that only had about 350-500 miles on it and the wheels. The group set and wheels have been in boxes for 2 years and decided to buy a used frame, but came across this site and decided to buy a clone for the hell of it! I appreciate all the information from everyone to help each other out. I decide on a Seraph and purchased via PayPal on Sat Nov. 8th. For anyone interested, I will return the favors you have given me in the timeline, pictures of the frame, interior of the frame, etc...
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I bought a frame at Seraph (Tan Tan).
They have also arranged groupset for me, but it was not assemblied on a bike.
I got everything in one box and assemblied by myself.
thanks Bugo. I'm in contact with Rose right now and will ask her what price they can offer for a groupset too 8)
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Here it is:
What model of water bottle cage did you install? Do you have a link?
Thanks
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I reached out to Rose last night and received a quick response, see below;
"Hi again,
thank you for your email
The chameleon white frame you ordered is in stock. We need to wait for the handlebar to be completed and we expect it to be shipped to you this week.
Once I ship I will update you with the tracking number and tracking link
best regards
Rose"
I ordered a 56 cm, after reading all the info on here (all threads), I might build this to be a lot of a Chinertown build, haven't decided yet...Hmmmm
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What model of water bottle cage did you install? Do you have a link?
Thanks
Also bottle cage is bought at Seraph, they also offer it. It costs 8-9 USD.
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Hi Guys. Anyone ride a 0mm seatpost on this frame?
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Received my frame. Six weeks since ordering to UK
Size 52. 865G frame, 425G uncut fork in translucent blue. Dark until the light hits it. This is a mist of blue on a raw frame with glossy finish
Paint looks well done, no missing spots or anything. There are a couple of tiny dimples on the carbon here and there, as if no fillers have been applied. It seems only cosmetic and I’m not too worried. You’ll get what you pay for, some are lucky some are not. Apart from that, fork and all races look clean and smooth
BB with no overspray and threads all clean and good. Anyway,I did chased and slightly faced
Brake mounts as expected needed facing. All done, with before and after pics
Now waiting for a set of Zen wheels, carbon cranks from DFS and Ultegra groupset at some point. No hurry during winter
I can provisionally say the Hylix 15 to 0 offset fits. Only 0.20mm narrower that the Tan Tan post. I tested it with a set of wheels, no cranks and bouncing up and down full force without carbon paste
Fingers crossed it works since the inline post will help achieving the perfect fit
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I'm interested in the color YS2431
Does anyone have it and can share pictures?
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPBe9FnFK4S/?igsh=eHl3am5jeHB5bTlh
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Received my frame. Six weeks since ordering to UK
Size 52. 865G frame, 425G uncut fork in translucent blue. Dark until the light hits it. This is a mist of blue on a raw frame with glossy finish
Paint looks well done, no missing spots or anything. There are a couple of tiny dimples on the carbon here and there, as if no fillers have been applied. It seems only cosmetic and I’m not too worried. You’ll get what you pay for, some are lucky some are not. Apart from that, fork and all races look clean and smooth
BB with no overspray and threads all clean and good. Anyway,I did chased and slightly faced
Brake mounts as expected needed facing. All done, with before and after pics
Now waiting for a set of Zen wheels, carbon cranks from DFS and Ultegra groupset at some point. No hurry during winter
I can provisionally say the Hylix 15 to 0 offset fits. Only 0.20mm narrower that the Tan Tan post. I tested it with a set of wheels, no cranks and bouncing up and down full force without carbon paste
Fingers crossed it works since the inline post will help achieving the perfect fit
Thanks for the pictures and update!
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Received my frame. Six weeks since ordering to UK
Size 52. 865G frame, 425G uncut fork in translucent blue. Dark until the light hits it. This is a mist of blue on a raw frame with glossy finish
Can you please share your YS color code for this one. Looks very nice!
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No YS code for this one. There was a back and forth WhatsApp conversation with Vivian with a couple of examples. My frame is now on their social media, so just need to ask for this one.
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1A3wtBDwFA/?mibextid=wwXIfr
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Received my frame. Six weeks since ordering to UK
Size 52. 865G frame, 425G uncut fork in translucent blue. Dark until the light hits it. This is a mist of blue on a raw frame with glossy finish
Paint looks well done, no missing spots or anything. There are a couple of tiny dimples on the carbon here and there, as if no fillers have been applied. It seems only cosmetic and I’m not too worried. You’ll get what you pay for, some are lucky some are not. Apart from that, fork and all races look clean and smooth
BB with no overspray and threads all clean and good. Anyway,I did chased and slightly faced
Brake mounts as expected needed facing. All done, with before and after pics
Now waiting for a set of Zen wheels, carbon cranks from DFS and Ultegra groupset at some point. No hurry during winter
I can provisionally say the Hylix 15 to 0 offset fits. Only 0.20mm narrower that the Tan Tan post. I tested it with a set of wheels, no cranks and bouncing up and down full force without carbon paste
Fingers crossed it works since the inline post will help achieving the perfect fit
Do you have a special facing tool or did you use a file and/or sandpaper? Frame looks indeed very nice :)
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Do you have a special facing tool or did you use a file and/or sandpaper? Frame looks indeed very nice :)
Thanks. As I mentioned there are a few imperfections on the frame that a more expensive western brand wouldn’t have got away with it, but only cosmetic
You could carefully file away the paint, but to achieve perfect parallelism a facing tool is best
For the brake mounts I use the Park Tool DT-5.2 plus some carbide files and the tip for carbon not included in the set. Expensive bit of kit, but I use it a lot at the workshop
Bottom bracket reamer and facer also from Park Tools
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wow the tool costs more than 500€. A bit too much to spend for building a bike every few years :)
Are there any cheaper options that do the trick?
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Today I found this...could probably work 🤷♂️
ICETOOLZ Bike Disc Mount Sanding Tool for Erasing the Paint on the Mounting Surface Disc Brake Base Milling Tool E272
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExNczFA
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A sanding block from your local hardware shop has never failed me in the few Chinese bike that I have built up.
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Quick update. See email from Rose at Seraph/TanTan, Shipped in 4 days...
"Hi again,
Thanks for your quick reply
I have shipped it to the logistics company
The tracking number is not expected to be updated until next Monday
I will update you once the tracking number is available
best regards
Rose
whatsapp: +86 133 7843 1621 | U:https://www.seraphbikes.com/
Instagram: seraph__bicycle
-----------------------------------------------------------------
ShenZhen Tantan Sports Equipment Co.,LTD
6 building, Ziming Road, Kengzi Street, Pingshan new district, Shenzhen City, Guangdong Province, China"
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Hi all. I've ordered the frame in July and received in september. I started building it this weekend and noticed I am missing the di2 grommets. I contacted Rose from Serpah/tantan and she told me this parts are no longer included in the packages. However, checking Patrick's video, you can see that at least the rear grommet is among the parts sent to him. Has anyone else had this issue?
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I didn't receive any grommets either, I had spare grommets so I used those instead.
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Hi all. I've ordered the frame in July and received in september. I started building it this weekend and noticed I am missing the di2 grommets. I contacted Rose from Serpah/tantan and she told me this parts are no longer included in the packages. However, checking Patrick's video, you can see that at least the rear grommet is among the parts sent to him. Has anyone else had this issue?
I received the rear grommet for Di2 with my frame recently. I wouldn’t worry if that was missing. Easy to get one online for a quid or two
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Seraph 56 cm Frame Order Update
Rose stated the frame has been shipped yesterday as promised with tracking details. Delivery ETA about 2-3 weeks to USA. (Ordered and shipped in 1 week)
Thanks
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I didn't receive any grommets either, I had spare grommets so I used those instead.
I recieved all grommets on both of my X68's. It's weird they don't give them anymore?
But in any case, as others replied, just buy them seperatelly at local bikeshop.
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But in any case, as others replied, just buy them seperatelly at local bikeshop.
I will, thank you.
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How happy are you all with the provided integrated handlebar by tantan? Is it any good or would you advise to buy another one?
Thx!
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I have no issues. But I'm only 60kg. Suspect its like all the other Roval Rapide clones out there.
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So far no issues either. With >90kg
... well I guess I had issues with the horrendous cable routing :D
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Now that we're pretty much at the end of the season in a lot of north america, how has this frameset held up so far? Any longer term reviews?
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Now that we're pretty much at the end of the season in a lot of north america, how has this frameset held up so far? Any longer term reviews?
Going strong and primed for the UK winter now
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Have you got any close up photos of the ud gloss finish? Looks really nice and am rigth on the edge of ordering one of these or a ostro vam.
Did you get it like that from Tan Tan?
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Have you got any close up photos of the ud gloss finish? Looks really nice and am rigth on the edge of ordering one of these or a ostro vam.
Did you get it like that from Tan Tan?
Message me I can send you a load more photos
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Now that we're pretty much at the end of the season in a lot of north america, how has this frameset held up so far? Any longer term reviews?
Full season on mine. No issues other than paint scuffing under the topcap. Its been my daily ride despite having a couple other bikes available. I have the "early" fork and no issues there either, despite some light gravel use.
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Going strong and primed for the UK winter now
Hi Sander,
One season in, how does it compare to the real one?
if you did a ride review / comparison, i missed it.
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I'm thinking of using SRAM force 2x12 egal with x68. Can someone recommend a good compatible cassette?
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A good friend of mine just finished his build: https://youtu.be/j2Le5kGi6-U?si=lIwtqN89H4q77138
https://youtu.be/j2Le5kGi6-U?si=lIwtqN89H4q77138 (https://youtu.be/j2Le5kGi6-U?si=lIwtqN89H4q77138)
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Has anyone here bought a full bike from tantan? How did the process go? I am thinking about buying it built.
I got quoted from Jessi 2546 USD for:
- ultegra r8170 di2
- 25 internal width rims 50 deep carbon (LC50C-31 Wheels with D238-spuer light-Ratchet centre lock 12s and Pillar 1423+SAPIM Nipples)
- custom 165mm cranks
- S775-1 pearl white paint finish
Plus 300 USD for shipping to europe.
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Has anyone here bought a full bike from tantan? How did the process go? I am thinking about buying it built.
I got quoted from Jessi 2546 USD for:
- ultegra r8170 di2
- 25 internal width rims 50 deep carbon (LC50C-31 Wheels with D238-spuer light-Ratchet centre lock 12s and Pillar 1423+SAPIM Nipples)
- custom 165mm cranks
- S775-1 pearl white paint finish
Plus 300 USD for shipping to europe.
That sounds crazy cheap. Is that with DPD shipping?
That is almost what the groupset cost itself here in Denmark..
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That sounds crazy cheap. Is that with DPD shipping?
That is almost what the groupset cost itself here in Denmark..
Yes it looks very cheap. Yes the shipping is with DPD to Europe.
But everything sounds real, just add 5% paypal fee to this cost. This is from Jessi at sales03@tantancycling.com
Attaching the invoice for the bike, probably going to ask without the tires and seat and re-calculate cost.
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That sounds about right. My wheeltop build was 2250...
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That sounds about right. My wheeltop build was 2250...
Did you buy the bike assembled? If so, how was it? anything to point out? Would you do it again?
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Did you buy the bike assembled? If so, how was it? anything to point out? Would you do it again?
Yes, assembled. It was well done, other than needing some external grease around the headset. I swapped a couple things out, they use a generic bb which is probably ok but I used a premium ceramic one. Their wheels are nothing special, although they're now wider internal than they were then. I sold them and went with xmcs. Having the hoses run and everything bled was nice, and I suspect they cleaned up the brake mounts to do so. Mine came with an allow senix crank which ended up on my trainer bike as I had a carbon crank w/ pm here already.
At the price they're quoting for an Ultegra bike that's fully built its a no brainer really. The frame and group would likely run you most of that. I do suspect that If the current wheelset is a reasonable weight (mine was close to 1600g which is why it went) its a steal. If its not, you can still get a couple hundred USD for it. So you're getting a build for almost nothing.
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Hi Sander,
One season in, how does it compare to the real one?
if you did a ride review / comparison, i missed it.
Hey Serge
To be honest I have seen all the YT reviews etc but honestly if you could do a blind test I don’t think many people would tell the difference myself.
The bike is stiff enough and it may divide opinion but it’s silly money for the frame and and bars.
Tan Tan have a questionable reputation customer service for many with issues is not great but I’m pleased with it myself. Will it replace my real SL8 no chance 😂.
I’m waiting for the X72 Y1RS 😂
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Yes, assembled. It was well done, other than needing some external grease around the headset. I swapped a couple things out, they use a generic bb which is probably ok but I used a premium ceramic one. Their wheels are nothing special, although they're now wider internal than they were then. I sold them and went with xmcs. Having the hoses run and everything bled was nice, and I suspect they cleaned up the brake mounts to do so. Mine came with an allow senix crank which ended up on my trainer bike as I had a carbon crank w/ pm here already.
At the price they're quoting for an Ultegra bike that's fully built its a no brainer really. The frame and group would likely run you most of that. I do suspect that If the current wheelset is a reasonable weight (mine was close to 1600g which is why it went) its a steal. If its not, you can still get a couple hundred USD for it. So you're getting a build for almost nothing.
Thanks for the feedback. How was the shipping? Everything went well? Any tip on things to ask the seller or something you would have done differently? The wheels are expected to have around 1600g yes
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Has anyone here bought a full bike from tantan? How did the process go? I am thinking about buying it built.
I got quoted from Jessi 2546 USD for:
- ultegra r8170 di2
- 25 internal width rims 50 deep carbon (LC50C-31 Wheels with D238-spuer light-Ratchet centre lock 12s and Pillar 1423+SAPIM Nipples)
- custom 165mm cranks
- S775-1 pearl white paint finish
Plus 300 USD for shipping to europe.
That's a decent price for the full build. Yes, the wheels maybe a bit heavy for today's weight obsessed standards but no a big deal. Only thing to be aware of is that the chainset is a 105 instead of Ultegra, but again, better than getting stupid long cranks
My self built with custom paint, full Ultegra and Zen 40/45 wheels came at 400 usd higher than yours
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Thanks for the feedback. How was the shipping? Everything went well? Any tip on things to ask the seller or something you would have done differently? The wheels are expected to have around 1600g yes
Well packed and shipped. The only thing they screwed up on mine was that I ordered the 3d saddle and it came with a regular. Luckily I had one here. There was a long delay but I ordered at the beginning and they were having some paint delays.
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Wonder if this touches Seraphs production lines also... - with all the mystery surrounding whether they actually manufacture this one or buy it in from somewhere
https://www.bicycleretailer.com/international/2025/12/05/specialized-credits-aliexpress-and-chinese-law-enforcement-largest (https://www.bicycleretailer.com/international/2025/12/05/specialized-credits-aliexpress-and-chinese-law-enforcement-largest)
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Today I am assembling your tt-x68 frameset into a complete bike and I am wondering what torque values I should use on the bike?
Can I use the torque values from the original SL8?
If not, does someone have torque values that were given to them by TanTan?
Tnx
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Today I am assembling your tt-x68 frameset into a complete bike and I am wondering what torque values I should use on the bike?
Can I use the torque values from the original SL8?
If not, does someone have torque values that were given to them by TanTan?
Tnx
This is what idid, I downloaded the sl8 user book and followed everything step by step.
For the brakes I downloaded the Shimano user guide and did the same.
Never built bike before and managed to assemble 2 of them without any issues following the different user guide
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This is what idid, I downloaded the sl8 user book and followed everything step by step.
For the brakes I downloaded the Shimano user guide and did the same.
Never built bike before and managed to assemble 2 of them without any issues following the different user guide
I will echo this. When I built my x68, I also downloaded the SL8 assembly information and the Shimano torque specs. No issues to speak of.
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The bike is assembled😉.
As shown in the picture, it ended up weighing 6.7 kg and there is still quite a bit of room for weight reduction.
The bike is the way it is because the user wanted it that way (10y daughter)... Until she changes her mind🤣
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How tall is your daughter and what frame size did you get?
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How tall is your daughter and what frame size did you get?
She is 140-145cm...bike size is 44 with 380x80 handlebar
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As my frame is currently on route to me: any recommendations regarding a good Wahoo Mount?
Anything else worth upgrading?
Thx :)
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As my frame is currently on route to me: any recommendations regarding a good Wahoo Mount?
Anything else worth upgrading?
Thx :)
Look at MagCad mounts
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Another question sorry - as some people seem to have stripped some of the screws provided with the frame, I am planning on upgrading. Is there any list on the screws dimensions etc. so I could purchase them in advance?
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I want to replace some screws with Ti-Screws. My frame didn‘t arrive yet, I can send you dimensions when I get the frame. So excited, since it’s the first bike I‘ll build.
Anybody know if the frame comes with Di2 battery holder?
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I want to replace some screws with Ti-Screws. My frame didn‘t arrive yet, I can send you dimensions when I get the frame. So excited, since it’s the first bike I‘ll build.
Anybody know if the frame comes with Di2 battery holder?
it comes with the seatpost di2 holder. It dangles from the bottom of the seatpost, so depending on your saddle height, you may have to cut your seatpost to make it work.
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I want to replace some screws with Ti-Screws. My frame didn‘t arrive yet, I can send you dimensions when I get the frame. So excited, since it’s the first bike I‘ll build.
Anybody know if the frame comes with Di2 battery holder?
Pretty much in the same situation. Frame is on its way to me and I am trying to get everything ready in advance for a smooth build :)
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I've just seen in a video of a Specialized SL8 build you need a special brake adapter for the front brake with the specialized fork. Is it the same with the X68?
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I've just seen in a video of a Specialized SL8 build you need a special brake adapter for the front brake with the specialized fork. Is it the same with the X68?
Yes, its shipped with the bike. Like the sl8, the spacing is non standard and you can only run a 160 rotor.
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Hello everyone,
I’ve been reading your posts since August, and today I finally decided to write for the first time. I went ahead and bought the bike frame from Tan Tan because I was really curious to see how good such an affordable frame could be and whether it was actually worth it or not. Now i can share my feedback with you guys.
As of today, I’ve already done about 1,200 km with the bike, and I can say that I’m very happy with it. My previous bike was a Specialized SL7 Pro, and honestly, I like the TT-X68 much more — it feels faster and lighter than my old SL7.
The only thing that has me a little concerned is cornering. I’ve seen some users complain about how it handles in curves, and I’ve noticed the same. I’m not a great descender, but it’s true that I find it a bit unstable — as if the steering were softer?? I don’t know if it’s because I was used to the stiffness of the Roval Rapide handlebar on the SL7 or if it’s due to the fork, but that’s the only thing that doesn’t fully convince me! ( i have the newer version of the fork, the heavy one).
Maybe it’s not just the handlebar but the whole change of bike setup, since now I’m also riding with a wider rim at lower pressure (4,6 bar front ), and maybe everything adds up. Anyway, I’m thinking about changing the handlebar for a stiffer one without spending too much money. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!
Here’s my current setup:
Frame : TT-X68 camaleon white 56
Wheels: Ryet 50 F/R (1430gr not the lightest ones) with TPU RideNow tubes 24gr each
Groupset : Sram Force ( SRAM Force AXS powermeter + cassete force 10-33)
Handlebar: Tantan
Seat : Ryet 3d carbon from Aliexpress
Pedals: Bucklos carbon- titanium (220gr) from Aliexpress
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Hello everyone,
I’ve been reading your posts since August, and today I finally decided to write for the first time. I went ahead and bought the bike frame from Tan Tan because I was really curious to see how good such an affordable frame could be and whether it was actually worth it or not. Now i can share my feedback with you guys.
As of today, I’ve already done about 1,200 km with the bike, and I can say that I’m very happy with it. My previous bike was a Specialized SL7 Pro, and honestly, I like the TT-X68 much more — it feels faster and lighter than my old SL7.
The only thing that has me a little concerned is cornering. I’ve seen some users complain about how it handles in curves, and I’ve noticed the same. I’m not a great descender, but it’s true that I find it a bit unstable — as if the steering were softer?? I don’t know if it’s because I was used to the stiffness of the Roval Rapide handlebar on the SL7 or if it’s due to the fork, but that’s the only thing that doesn’t fully convince me! ( i have the newer version of the fork, the heavy one).
Maybe it’s not just the handlebar but the whole change of bike setup, since now I’m also riding with a wider rim at lower pressure (4,6 bar front ), and maybe everything adds up. Anyway, I’m thinking about changing the handlebar for a stiffer one without spending too much money. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!
Here’s my current setup:
Frame : TT-X68 camaleon white 56
Wheels: Ryet 50 F/R (1430gr not the lightest ones) with TPU RideNow tubes 24gr each
Groupset : Sram Force ( SRAM Force AXS powermeter + cassete force 10-33)
Handlebar: Tantan
Seat : Ryet 3d carbon from Aliexpress
Pedals: Bucklos carbon- titanium (220gr) from Aliexpress
FWIW, some folks have issues with how the actual sl8 descends at speed.
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**“I’ve noticed it as well. I’m riding a size 52 frame with 50 mm deep wheels with carbon spokes, and I also feel some flex when entering corners above 35 km/h, especially if I keep pedaling.
Before, with 45 mm deep wheels, I felt it more. Now, with 50 mm wheels and very stiff carbon spokes, I feel it much less.
I find the handlebar very stiff — I’ve tested it during sprints both on the road and on the trainer. My feeling is that this excessive compliance is coming from the fork and the rear triangle.
Hello everyone,
I’ve been reading your posts since August, and today I finally decided to write for the first time. I went ahead and bought the bike frame from Tan Tan because I was really curious to see how good such an affordable frame could be and whether it was actually worth it or not. Now i can share my feedback with you guys.
As of today, I’ve already done about 1,200 km with the bike, and I can say that I’m very happy with it. My previous bike was a Specialized SL7 Pro, and honestly, I like the TT-X68 much more — it feels faster and lighter than my old SL7.
The only thing that has me a little concerned is cornering. I’ve seen some users complain about how it handles in curves, and I’ve noticed the same. I’m not a great descender, but it’s true that I find it a bit unstable — as if the steering were softer?? I don’t know if it’s because I was used to the stiffness of the Roval Rapide handlebar on the SL7 or if it’s due to the fork, but that’s the only thing that doesn’t fully convince me! ( i have the newer version of the fork, the heavy one).
Maybe it’s not just the handlebar but the whole change of bike setup, since now I’m also riding with a wider rim at lower pressure (4,6 bar front ), and maybe everything adds up. Anyway, I’m thinking about changing the handlebar for a stiffer one without spending too much money. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!
Here’s my current setup:
Frame : TT-X68 camaleon white 56
Wheels: Ryet 50 F/R (1430gr not the lightest ones) with TPU RideNow tubes 24gr each
Groupset : Sram Force ( SRAM Force AXS powermeter + cassete force 10-33)
Handlebar: Tantan
Seat : Ryet 3d carbon from Aliexpress
Pedals: Bucklos carbon- titanium (220gr) from Aliexpress
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**“I’ve noticed it as well. I’m riding a size 52 frame with 50 mm deep wheels with carbon spokes, and I also feel some flex when entering corners above 35 km/h, especially if I keep pedaling.
Before, with 45 mm deep wheels, I felt it more. Now, with 50 mm wheels and very stiff carbon spokes, I feel it much less.
I find the handlebar very stiff — I’ve tested it during sprints both on the road and on the trainer. My feeling is that this excessive compliance is coming from the fork and the rear triangle.
It could be that the fork isn’t stiff enough—I don’t know—but I do notice a difference between handlebars! It’s also likely that the Roval is narrower and the one on the X68 is wider, so I can apply more leverage? I’m not sure… I think I’m going to remove the handlebar from the SL7 (the Roval Rapide) and fit it on the X68 so I can test and see what happens!
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8 Months in still going strong
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Hi Sander2177, maybe you’ve already mentioned it in another post, but I haven’t read all the pages, I might have missed it sorr! which wheels are you running? Are you happy with them? How much do they weigh?
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Hi Sander2177, maybe you’ve already mentioned it in another post, but I haven’t read all the pages, I might have missed it sorr! which wheels are you running? Are you happy with them? How much do they weigh?
You should specify which day of the week 😜. He tests a lots of wheels and brings us a lots of useful infirmation.
Thanks for that.
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Hi Sander2177, maybe you’ve already mentioned it in another post, but I haven’t read all the pages, I might have missed it sorr! which wheels are you running? Are you happy with them? How much do they weigh?
Mate I will private message you ok. I have a couple of bikes and few set of wheels at different depths
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You should specify which day of the week 😜. He tests a lots of wheels and brings us a lots of useful infirmation.
Thanks for that.
;D well I'm looking at bike No3 IN 2026 full aero so they are justified although the Mrs is never impressed ;D
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Hi! Has anyone tried to mount gravel tyres on this frame ?
I would make a 650b wheelset with a 32/33mm gravel/cyclocross tyres. Single-chainring, 44t. I am not sure there is enough cleareance on the fork and on the rear.
Any suggestions ? Thx!
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Hi! Has anyone tried to mount gravel tyres on this frame ?
I would make a 650b wheelset with a 32/33mm gravel/cyclocross tyres. Single-chainring, 44t. I am not sure there is enough cleareance on the fork and on the rear.
Any suggestions ? Thx!
:)
Max width 32c per spec
Will fit 34mm no more think it was Patrick maybe who confirmed this he was running 32mm tyres on XM CarbonSpeed 26mm inner rims that measured 34mm.
Maybe he can confirm this
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:)
Max width 32c per spec
Will fit 34mm no more think it was Patrick maybe who confirmed this he was running 32mm tyres on XM CarbonSpeed 26mm inner rims that measured 34mm.
Maybe he can confirm this
Yup! I can fit 34mm measured at the rim on my genuine SL8. Haven't tried it on my X68
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Yup! I can fit 34mm measured at the rim on my genuine SL8. Haven't tried it on my X68
Thanks for confirming this Mr Lino!
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I got myself a legit S-Works Tarmac SL8 after riding the X68. I will not disassemble the real one, but if you need specific side by side comparison, shots, etc. please let me know. I know Patrick also had a real one too, but if I recall correctly, he got rid of it before getting his hands on the X68.
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I am 194cm tall.
I currently ride a Steel Bike, 56CM BB to Seat Post with a 130mm Stem. It’s a great fit for me.
I am concerned about the sizes for X68. I notice the BB to Seat Post is significantly smaller even in the large frames. Their largest is only 51cm which would mean I’d need to run massive seat post.
Any other tall riders here with a x68 or x70?
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I got myself a legit S-Works Tarmac SL8 after riding the X68. I will not disassemble the real one, but if you need specific side by side comparison, shots, etc. please let me know. I know Patrick also had a real one too, but if I recall correctly, he got rid of it before getting his hands on the X68.
Nice, could you also compare the feeling, stifness (even if Patrick did it), riding quality, different speed at the same wattage... Thanks a lot.
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Hello everyone!
On the forum pages, I saw that some users have a problem with through axes (the washer remains inside the frame). I want to warn myself against this problem and buy other axes. Can you please advise me which axles are better to buy?Share the link to aliexpress.
Thanks!
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Hello everyone,
Here is my update on the X68 build.
The frame arrived pretty fast and seems to be of good quality.
Unfortunately, the screw for the headset top cap was missing, and my request to TT for a replacement was not answered positively.
The build itself was not difficult.
The only issue was the alignment of the rear brake. I wasn’t able to adjust the rear brake so that the pads were not touching the disc. Finally, after using a 0.25 mm washer, I could adjust the brake caliper in an acceptable way. However, this should not be the standard, especially because you can’t insert the safety pin for the brake assembly screw.
The first rollout was fine so far.
Only the seat post slipped a bit, which I need to monitor during the next rides. Also, the headset play needed to be adjusted twice.
Overall, the first impression and experience aren’t that bad.
But hopefully, I’ll never have a serious issue, because I don’t think TT would take care of it.
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Has anyone bought a complete x68 bike from seraph? How was it? I'm looking for something similar to my s-works tarmac that I can use for international travel. I would prefer to travel with a cheaper bike that i'm less concerned about theft/damage. I could also potentially have a seraph shipped directly to one of my destinations.
I would have a hard time building a bike for under 3k. I can't even find a used sl7 for that price. So a complete bike for 2900 is an interesting idea.
I have concerns about assembly quality and safety. Thoughts? I assume they are using the cheapest possible components wherever they can.
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If you buy a complete bike you can spec the groupset, Shimano 105, Ultegra, or Wheeltop. The wheeltop bike comes with a cheap but servicable Senix crank, easy swap. The BB is cheap generic but also easily swapped if you care. Wheels are fine but heavy by today's standards. Chain is SUMC, again not a big brand but a decent Chinese chain. Tires are low end Conti.
Build quality is fine. After you get it, you might want to add grease externally to headset, carbon paste on seatpost, grease on seatpost clamp bolts. Brakes were well aligned and bled.
I had zero issues given the value proposition. I changed out the bb, installed powermeter crankset (Quarq on hand), did the grease service above, installed YBN chain and Supercaz tape. Sold their wheels and went with xmcs. Full season on the bike, very pleased.
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Hello everyone,
Here is my update on the X68 build.
The frame arrived pretty fast and seems to be of good quality.
Unfortunately, the screw for the headset top cap was missing, and my request to TT for a replacement was not answered positively.
The build itself was not difficult.
The only issue was the alignment of the rear brake. I wasn’t able to adjust the rear brake so that the pads were not touching the disc. Finally, after using a 0.25 mm washer, I could adjust the brake caliper in an acceptable way. However, this should not be the standard, especially because you can’t insert the safety pin for the brake assembly screw.
The first rollout was fine so far.
Only the seat post slipped a bit, which I need to monitor during the next rides. Also, the headset play needed to be adjusted twice.
Overall, the first impression and experience aren’t that bad.
But hopefully, I’ll never have a serious issue, because I don’t think TT would take care of it.
I had the same problem with the seatpost on mine. Even tightening the bolt to 6 Nm, the seatpost would still slip. In the end I fixed it by cutting a small shim out of a Coca-Cola can and putting it between the seatpost and the frame. And of course, carbon assembly paste — I’m guessing you’re already using that, right?
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Has anyone bought a complete x68 bike from seraph? How was it? I'm looking for something similar to my s-works tarmac that I can use for international travel. I would prefer to travel with a cheaper bike that i'm less concerned about theft/damage. I could also potentially have a seraph shipped directly to one of my destinations.
I would have a hard time building a bike for under 3k. I can't even find a used sl7 for that price. So a complete bike for 2900 is an interesting idea.
I have concerns about assembly quality and safety. Thoughts? I assume they are using the cheapest possible components wherever they can.
A friend of mine bought a fully built gravel one about 3 months ago, and so far no problems! Like they’ve said here, some components are low quality, but they’re easy to swap out.
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Pretty much in the same situation. Frame is on its way to me and I am trying to get everything ready in advance for a smooth build :)
So I just got my frame delivered, took quite a while during the holidays in germany. Do you need some Screw measurements or did you receive yours now?
Quite happy with mine, the paintjob looks really good, just the brake mounts are sprayed over quite a bit.
The adapter for front brake is not good, one counterbore is way too deep so I can't use it. You guys reckon Tantan will send me a replacement or just don't bother and get it somewhere else?
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So I just got my frame delivered, took quite a while during the holidays in germany. Do you need some Screw measurements or did you receive yours now?
Quite happy with mine, the paintjob looks really good, just the brake mounts are sprayed over quite a bit.
The adapter for front brake is not good, one counterbore is way too deep so I can't use it. You guys reckon Tantan will send me a replacement or just don't bother and get it somewhere else?
I propably wouldnt bother with it, its the perfect time to order an adapter from Chaser :D :D
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The compression plug in the fork is a really tight fit with the fork shaft. I would have to hammer it in and I'm not really keen on doing that. Anybody got the same problem or an idea what I could do?
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The compression plug in the fork is a really tight fit with the fork shaft. I would have to hammer it in and I'm not really keen on doing that. Anybody got the same problem or an idea what I could do?
For anyone interested: I just ordered the original Specialized expander plug which ist a way better quality than the one that came with the frame.
Together with a brake adapter that was defective I had to spent about 45€ extra.
Guess that happens when you order these cheap framesets.
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The compression plug in the fork is a really tight fit with the fork shaft. I would have to hammer it in and I'm not really keen on doing that. Anybody got the same problem or an idea what I could do?
Used this compression plug instead of the shitty one provided
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExUH3hm
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Has anybody mounted aerobars on their Tantan cockpit?
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So I just got my frame delivered, took quite a while during the holidays in germany. Do you need some Screw measurements or did you receive yours now?
Quite happy with mine, the paintjob looks really good, just the brake mounts are sprayed over quite a bit.
The adapter for front brake is not good, one counterbore is way too deep so I can't use it. You guys reckon Tantan will send me a replacement or just don't bother and get it somewhere else?
Mine is there as well, thank you!
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Has anybody mounted aerobars on their Tantan cockpit?
I dont think its possible unless you can conjour up a custom clamping system.Theres no mounting system like factor, and the bars are not round. The bars are ripoffs of the roval rapides bars on sl8's
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I have a problem with the cockpit installation. I got the brake hoses through the cockpit, but when I want to install the cockpit on the fork it gets pushed to the right as if there is some cable tension. I don't know wehre it comes from, since I disassembled it and reassembled it without seeing an issue. How did you all install the cockpit?
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I have a problem with the cockpit installation. I got the brake hoses through the cockpit, but when I want to install the cockpit on the fork it gets pushed to the right as if there is some cable tension. I don't know wehre it comes from, since I disassembled it and reassembled it without seeing an issue. How did you all install the cockpit?
When everything is assembled, try to unscrew the caliper (front or right or both) and turn it of 360°. I hope you will understand 😅.
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When everything is assembled, try to unscrew the caliper (front or right or both) and turn it of 360°. I hope you will understand 😅.
Oh so you mean the brake hose is twisted?
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Oh so you mean the brake hose is twisted?
Almost, not really twist but the natural curve of the hose is not on the right side.
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So I just got my frame delivered, took quite a while during the holidays in germany. Do you need some Screw measurements or did you receive yours now?
Quite happy with mine, the paintjob looks really good, just the brake mounts are sprayed over quite a bit.
The adapter for front brake is not good, one counterbore is way too deep so I can't use it. You guys reckon Tantan will send me a replacement or just don't bother and get it somewhere else?
How long was your delivery time and what was the final price you payed?
@all is there any kind of promo code available right now? Couldn't find anything on the web.
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Does anyone here use the Magene L508 radar mount? I have one, but only for the Varia, and there the central insert has a horizontal oriented slot for the mount (for Magene should be vertical). Can't finde anything on aliexpress
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Does anyone here use the Magene L508 radar mount? I have one, but only for the Varia, and there the central insert has a horizontal oriented slot for the mount (for Magene should be vertical). Can't finde anything on aliexpress
Search for KOM cycling garmin to wahoo adaptor. Not on ali, but maybe you can find similar. (https://content.backcountry.com/images/items/1200/KOC/KOC000L/BLA.jpg)
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Does anyone here use the Magene L508 radar mount? I have one, but only for the Varia, and there the central insert has a horizontal oriented slot for the mount (for Magene should be vertical). Can't finde anything on aliexpress
If you already have the mount, try searching for a magene compatible insert on Ali that has the 2bolt fixing,
Costs next to nothing and is rock solid, did this on my mount for a dogma f seat post.
Something like this.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJaS2ni
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Does anyone here use the Magene L508 radar mount? I have one, but only for the Varia, and there the central insert has a horizontal oriented slot for the mount (for Magene should be vertical). Can't finde anything on aliexpress
@dovh here 3D printed an adapter mount for his Magene radar, works pretty well.
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Hi,
just small reminder: keep in mind that many Varia holder (3D prints) will crack or brake after some time, unless they include some glass fibers.
3D itself does not stand so well all the vibrations. And saving 20€ against loosing Varia radar is not something to miss=)
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I printed this holder in polycarbonate filament and it has held up amazing, done around 4k km with it and no issues what so ever. - https://makerworld.com/en/models/599359-tarmac-sl8-garmin-varia-mount?from=search#profileId-526361
and for my magene light i use a simple garmin extender since the magene light is rotaded 90 degree when you put normal adapter on it it will create a correct mounting for garmin varia. I use adapter that i designed, see screenshot of it. (if someone wants it i can share the print files)
edit: here is the 3mf file for the adapter - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jiz3ll-n4ATH84sOZFS_2NL1Htc-f3Xg/view?usp=sharing
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My x68 is finally finished :)
Zen carbon wheels 60mm 24 internal
Zen carbon cranks Zen Carbon bottle cages
Chaser discs, hanger, lockrings, adapters, pulley wheels, derailleur bolt...
Ultegra 12 speed
Dura ace 11-34 cassette
Ultegra chain and chainrings
75% titanium bolts xD
Assioma duo powermeter pedals
Ryet saddle
Build weight 6,7 kg as pictured in a size 58
i've only ridden indoors, still need to finetune some things but looks and feels promissing
I wanted to see how it would look with the sworks logos in the same colors as the Chaser parts, so thats the chat gtp picture. Probably going to order a set on Speedydecals :p
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Seems like I'm on a lucky streak with Tantan frames... bottom bracket sleeves got loose in the frame...
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My x68 is finally finished :)
Zen carbon wheels 60mm 24 internal
Zen carbon cranks Zen Carbon bottle cages
Chaser discs, hanger, lockrings, adapters, pulley wheels, derailleur bolt...
Ultegra 12 speed
Dura ace 11-34 cassette
Ultegra chain and chainrings
75% titanium bolts xD
Assioma duo powermeter pedals
Ryet saddle
Build weight 6,7 kg as pictured in a size 58
i've only ridden indoors, still need to finetune some things but looks and feels promissing
I wanted to see how it would look with the sworks logos in the same colors as the Chaser parts, so thats the chat gtp picture. Probably going to order a set on Speedydecals :p
Looks good to me!
Anyway you could share links of products you've used and bought which are not from well known brands?
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Looks good to me!
Anyway you could share links of products you've used and bought which are not from well known brands?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/store/1100227309?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.b185iwoEiwoEdO here you can find most Chaser parts
https://www.instagram.com/zencarbonbike/ you can send for the wheels and cranks
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I just received by x68 and there appears to be a carbon fiber lip in the seat tube that is preventing me from installing my DI2 battery far enough down in the tube to adjust my seat height. I suspect this is where 2 different carbon parts were joined together.
Is this fixable? I think cutting my seatpost shorter and drilling new di2 holder holes will not get me the minimum depth required.
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I just received by x68 and there appears to be a carbon fiber lip in the seat tube that is preventing me from installing my DI2 battery far enough down in the tube to adjust my seat height. I suspect this is where 2 different carbon parts were joined together.
Is this fixable? I think cutting my seatpost shorter and drilling new di2 holder holes will not get me the minimum depth required.
Try searching for the gcn video of the R088, there they show you a possible solution
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Seems like I'm on a lucky streak with Tantan frames... bottom bracket sleeves got loose in the frame...
......wat lol?
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......wat lol?
Yeah, the threading for the bottom bracket on the right side became loose, got a lot of radial play..
Seems like universe wants to punish me for buying chinese fakes :D
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How long was your delivery time and what was the final price you payed?
@all is there any kind of promo code available right now? Couldn't find anything on the web.
Tantan received the money via bank transfer on 30.10.25, I received pictures of the painted frame 09.12.25 and received everything 30.12.25
Frame 589USD
Paint 140USD
Shipping with groupset 180USD incl. tax and tarrifs
Bank transfer fee 50 USD
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Yeah, the threading for the bottom bracket on the right side became loose, got a lot of radial play..
Seems like universe wants to punish me for buying chinese fakes :D
I had the same happen to my Hygge frame. It's actually fairly easy to fix yourself if you're not afraid to tackle that kind of job.
I took out the sleeve, cleaned everything very good and used 2K glue (of a very good brand) to glue it back in.
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I had the same happen to my Hygge frame. It's actually fairly easy to fix yourself if you're not afraid to tackle that kind of job.
I took out the sleeve, cleaned everything very good and used 2K glue (of a very good brand) to glue it back in.
Think I'll give it a try, but TanTan agreed to send me a new frame for shipping costs, frame only, no fork, no other stuff
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Think I'll give it a try, but TanTan agreed to send me a new frame for shipping costs, frame only, no fork, no other stuff
Tbh quite aight customer support, even tho they could have covered those shipping fees themselves.
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Tbh quite aight customer support, even tho they could have covered those shipping fees themselves.
Well, the reply from Hygge was : "Fix it yourself", so Tantan's offers seems better :)
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Frame arrived here...
874g matte black size 56 without any metal parts
Which is exactly annoying as fuck. Got to mount that f..king front derailleur mount myself..
Also ordered a new fork with, weighs in at 410g uncut, will try to build up the frame in the next two weeks, hopefully the brake hoses from the former are still long enough...
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I just received by x68 and there appears to be a carbon fiber lip in the seat tube that is preventing me from installing my DI2 battery far enough down in the tube to adjust my seat height. I suspect this is where 2 different carbon parts were joined together.
Is this fixable? I think cutting my seatpost shorter and drilling new di2 holder holes will not get me the minimum depth required.
Update: GCN's sandpaper on a stick approach didnt work. I ended ramming the carbon fiber lip with a metal pole until it shattered to pieces. Not exactly an elegant solution.
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I've had my friend's X68 in size 49 sitting in the hallway while I find some time to paint it. Figured I should take some weights.
Fork: 406g
Bars: 345g
Seatpost: 166g
Frame: 841g with hardware, 804g without
Some rough spots in the bearing seats and rear dropouts but otherwise looks good on visual inspection.
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Update: GCN's sandpaper on a stick approach didnt work. I ended ramming the carbon fiber lip with a metal pole until it shattered to pieces. Not exactly an elegant solution.
Love it! That's one way of giving the frame an initial stress test ;D
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Ive gotta admit I have moved on from this bike. It just never felt confidence inspiring while descending. I tried everything to fix the softness I would get when descending at speed. Different wheels/tires helped but there was always a slight wobble, especially if a light crosswind. I'm no slouch on descending, nor am I a noob at riding bikes.
I got a really good deal on a Van Rysel RCR Pro with SRAM Force group. Its been flawless. Zipp 303SW wheels feel great but I'm thinking of selling them to get something with a hooked design(Probably Caden CDAs).
Anyway, I still have to X68 and it is a Certified Fast Bike on the flats. Mine just left me feeling sketchy down the hills.
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I have around 13.000 km on my X68 now. Got it in may 2025. Still no issues. It just does what it needs to do.
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X68 Still Going Strong
Ordered May 2025
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Yea I'm glad all of yours are working flawlessly, but something is off about mine.
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Yea I'm glad all of yours are working flawlessly, but something is off about mine.
Ok you post this say there is something off then dont say what is off!
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He's got a handling issue, descending at speed.
There are similar complaints from folks on ww about the actual sl8. Not a majority of people, but some folks seem to have an issue while the majority don't. No one has ever identified the source. Lots of speculation about weight, location of cog and aero issues but nothing definitive. There are enough reports though that I don't write it off.
I suspect its more of a position/rider weight/ geo interaction than the frame itself given the reports, but who knows?
Mine's been fine.
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Yea I'm glad all of yours are working flawlessly, but something is off about mine.
Fixed it for you " something is off about mine.skilset "
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Honestly I am really annoyed by seraph...
Guess one can see that the inner hole is not centered in the outer hole thus the bolt can't be torqued properly...
The frame more or less is worthless... Honestly I don't know anymore
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Honestly I am really annoyed by seraph...
Guess one can see that the inner hole is not centered in the outer hole thus the bolt can't be torqued properly...
The frame more or less is worthless... Honestly I don't know anymore
I that the derailleur hanger hole?
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Honestly I am really annoyed by seraph...
Guess one can see that the inner hole is not centered in the outer hole thus the bolt can't be torqued properly...
The frame more or less is worthless... Honestly I don't know anymore
I'm assuming you mean the derailleur hanger hole?
I agree the hole should be right but I would file it out it to get it centre, the bolt for that area is only 2Nm and a bit of Loctite blue
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I'm assuming you mean the derailleur hanger hole?
I agree the hole should be right but I would file it out it to get it centre, the bolt for that area is only 2Nm and a bit of Loctite blue
Yeah sorry its the rear derailleur hole. I don't see that as critical either. But honestly it's simply annoying that my first frame got a loose sleeves on the bottom bracket and now the rear derailleur bolt makes issues. It's crazy how much my two frames differ in that area...
In the picture you can see that the inner hole is way to big and off center. The outer hole now is okay ;)
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I don’t know if this is the right place to ask…
But i’ve got one frame on option, which the seller is willing to ship out tomorrow.
Otherwise i’d have to wait until after CNY, which means it will be at least a month later.
I’ve got this shot of the inside, how does this look?
I don’t know what this almost chinese text looking like material is on the right side?
Thanks anways😊
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I don’t know if this is the right place to ask…
But i’ve got one frame on option, which the seller is willing to ship out tomorrow.
Otherwise i’d have to wait until after CNY, which means it will be at least a month later.
I’ve got this shot of the inside, how does this look?
I don’t know what this almost chinese text looking like material is on the right side?
Thanks anways😊
Not clean when I compare to this RK's frame.
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Not clean when I compare to this RK's frame.
When comparing i can see the difference indeed.
Does this mean it’s bad quality?
I’ve added a couple more videos.
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When comparing i can see the difference indeed.
Does this mean it’s bad quality?
I’ve added a couple more videos.
What is it I meant to ne commenting on exactly? I see the inside of a bottom bracket shell on a cheap $600 carbon frame
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I don’t know if this is the right place to ask…
But i’ve got one frame on option, which the seller is willing to ship out tomorrow.
Otherwise i’d have to wait until after CNY, which means it will be at least a month later.
I’ve got this shot of the inside, how does this look?
I don’t know what this almost chinese text looking like material is on the right side?
Thanks anways😊
can't reacall my tantan to look like that, they were looking way better. According to your video I can see the UCI sticker and the S-Works logo, is this frame from Tantan?
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Its a sloppy layup. Is it bound to fail? I doubt it, but it doesn't speak well to the general care used in production. The tantan frames, whatever their source, are very clean inside and appear eps moulded. Is that tantan? Doubt it.
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Does anybody know if there are 0 offset seatposts available for the X68?
As fas as i’ve read the original SL8 seatposts don’t fit in the TanTan.
This means that all aftermarket SL8 seatposts wouldn’t fit the X68, did anybody find one that does fit?
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Does anybody know if there are 0 offset seatposts available for the X68?
As fas as i’ve read the original SL8 seatposts don’t fit in the TanTan.
This means that all aftermarket SL8 seatposts wouldn’t fit the X68, did anybody find one that does fit?
Nope, not a TanTan.
It was indeed a SL8 replica, which i only considered because it was ready to ship.
Decided i’ll just wait for CNY to pass, will not have my frameset before April🥲.
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I installed my tantan on the tacx neo 2T flucx and the thrue axle only comes to this point, is this a problem? Everything feels secure, but I dont know if it's save to ride it like that
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I'd suggest you've got the trainer spacers fitted for 148mm rather than the needed 142mm.
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Not sure this the right place where to ask:
I cannot fix the computer mount (Deemount) on a fake Roval Rapide handlerbar mounted on a fake SL8: when I ride, vibrations male the scew loosen and the computer moves.
I tried to fix with a threadlocker but it does not work.
Anyone with the same issue ? Any solution ?
Thank you!
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Not sure this the right place where to ask:
I cannot fix the computer mount (Deemount) on a fake Roval Rapide handlerbar mounted on a fake SL8: when I ride, vibrations male the scew loosen and the computer moves.
I tried to fix with a threadlocker but it does not work.
Anyone with the same issue ? Any solution ?
Thank you!
Is the mount fully sitting on the handlebar? My tip would be to try a small washer under the screw if the mount already sits fully on the handlebar, or if not, then to try putting something between mount and handlebar, so that the mounts sits fully on it
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Not sure this the right place where to ask:
I cannot fix the computer mount (Deemount) on a fake Roval Rapide handlerbar mounted on a fake SL8: when I ride, vibrations male the scew loosen and the computer moves.
I tried to fix with a threadlocker but it does not work.
Anyone with the same issue ? Any solution ?
Thank you!
The supplied mount is dog sh1t, and is a common issue on this thread. Get another mount or use stronger red thread locker maybe
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Hello everyone!
I finally received my assembled bike from the mechanic today. Below I'll describe the entire story, from purchasing the frame to receiving the finished bike.
I started following this forum thread in March 2025. After reading your reviews (thank you so much for that), I decided to place an order and build my first carbon fiber bike.
I placed the order in August 2025. I communicated with Vivian via WhatsApp, where he also generated an invoice, and I paid via AliPay. A month later, the frame was delivered to my home. The frame wasn't damaged in transit, except for a small scratch on the fork. I wrote to Vivian about this, and he assured me it wasn't a problem and I shouldn't worry.
In February 2026, when I had all the components in hand, I sent the bike in for assembly. I asked the mechanic to tell me what he thought of the frame. He said the frame was generally well-made, but there was one annoying issue. The battery wouldn't fit into the seat tube, as if something inside the frame was preventing it from being pushed in. Because of this, the seat post couldn't be adjusted to its proper height. The mechanic decided to leave the battery without the special clamp; he simply left it inside the frame. I don't know how I'll be able to get the battery out later. Do you think this is a bad idea? Will this cause any problems in the future? I'm very worried about this issue, and it's somehow marred my impression of the new bike...
Now I can't wait for the season to try the frame out.
The final setup is as follows:
Frame: TT X-68. Size 56.
Wheels: Elitewheels Aero+ 53mm
Tires: Continental Grand Prix 5000 str (28mm)
Groupset: Ultegra Di2 R8100
Saddle: Ryet
Pedals: Zeeray
Weight: 7.5 kg
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Nice build, can you take a picture of the seat tube interior ? I think there is someone who encountered the same issue as yours. My best guess will be that there is an excess of carbon layup that you will have to sand if you want to sit the battery properly in the seat tube as the original SL8.
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Anyone in the USA interested in buying my frameset? Send me a DM.
Size 56, baby blue color. I'm running out of room over here LoL
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Hello everyone!
The battery wouldn't fit into the seat tube, as if something inside the frame was preventing it from being pushed in. Because of this, the seat post couldn't be adjusted to its proper height. The mechanic decided to leave the battery without the special clamp; he simply left it inside the frame. I don't know how I'll be able to get the battery out later. Do you think this is a bad idea? Will this cause any problems in the future? I'm very worried about this issue, and it's somehow marred my impression of the new bike...
Shouldn't be a problem. I've had a bunch of bikes with both campy and shimano batteries in the seatube without holders. They are usually very easy to get out.
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Maybe a little bit of a dumb question, but which BS68 bottom bracket do you need?
I'm going to be using the Magene TEO 29mm DUB crankset, so i'm ordering a SRAM DUB BB.
I see there's different options like 44m or 47mm?
Second question:
Which exact size headset bearings do you need?
I probably want to install a decent brand headset bearings upon first installation, hoping those might have a longer lifespan.
Cheers.
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Shouldn't be a problem. I've had a bunch of bikes with both campy and shimano batteries in the seatube without holders. They are usually very easy to get out.
My battery actually got stuck pretty bad in the seat tube as the tube is a weird shape that easily wedges the battery in place. If you can, I would tape a string or something on the bottom of the battery so you can easily pull it out when you need to.
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Hi
Is 90 mm seatpost insertion risky ?
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Hi everyone, does anyone have original spacers for the Roval Rapide cockpit/headset? I’m looking to buy a set and would really appreciate it if someone could ship them to Poland. I need them ASAP! – the official Specialized dealer has been processing my order for 4 weeks already 😑
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Will the light weight thru axles for the SL8 fit the X68 frame? Trying to find out what size the thru axles are. I have the frame on order.
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Will the light weight thru axles for the SL8 fit the X68 frame? Trying to find out what size the thru axles are. I have the frame on order.
yes, same size as gen sl8
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yes, same size as gen sl8
I concur. SL8 thru axles will for this bike I have overfast thru axles installed
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Thank you.
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Wondering if there is any need for spacer with this frame in combination with the ULTEGRA BBR60 68mm BSA BB and the ULTEGRA FC-R8100. So far I did not use any...and it seems to be working fine.
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Does anyone try to fit 700x35cc tires ? I wonder if I can make a light gravel bike with the X68. Thanks !
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Does anyone try to fit 700x35cc tires ? I wonder if I can make a light gravel bike with the X68. Thanks !
Won't work. I have tried to fit a 33mm CX tire in the front, wouldn't want to ride it with that. almost rubbing on the paint
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Won't work. I have tried to fit a 33mm CX tire in the front, wouldn't want to ride it with that. almost rubbing on the paint
What's the tyre measure?
I ahve seen 34mm fitted on to a gen SL8 its tight but they fit
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What's the tyre measure?
I ahve seen 34mm fitted on to a gen SL8 its tight but they fit
They're UCI compliant (33mm); I guess one could ride them on the X68, but it needs to be really dry
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Hey yall,
i did it and bought a x68 in green.
i finally went trough all 132 pages to this frame and there are some questions occuring:
1. I want to ride 160f and 160rear rotors with a shimano Di2 brake. Is there a need for extra adapters for fork and/or frame?
2. How long did it take to order, paint and ship to Germany? Rose told me, the longest would be end of April. I this reliable?
3. Is it worth it to buy those Di2 latex covers for the cables in advance?
4. How is the fork quality now in 2026? Any issues here?
5. Got a new 116 link shimano chain sitting here, should there be more links for a 52/36 and 11-34 casette with a size 58 frame?
Thank you guys, appreciate any reply!
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1. Yep ypu need a 140 to 160mm adapter
2. Idk
3. yep
4. no issue
5. Should be enough
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1. Yep ypu need a 140 to 160mm adapter
2. Idk
3. yep
4. no issue
5. Should be enough
Thanks!
So for the first question: The adapter for the fork comes in the box, the adapter for the frame should be a standard shimano adapter, correct? Hopefully no need for expensive genuine special things.
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dont know if it comes in the box, you can always get on amazon or alix https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005002055594636.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3Bdmbjb)
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Hey yall,
i did it and bought a x68 in green.
i finally went trough all 132 pages to this frame and there are some questions occuring:
1. I want to ride 160f and 160rear rotors with a shimano Di2 brake. Is there a need for extra adapters for fork and/or frame?
2. How long did it take to order, paint and ship to Germany? Rose told me, the longest would be end of April. I this reliable?
3. Is it worth it to buy those Di2 latex covers for the cables in advance?
4. How is the fork quality now in 2026? Any issues here?
5. Got a new 116 link shimano chain sitting here, should there be more links for a 52/36 and 11-34 casette with a size 58 frame?
Thank you guys, appreciate any reply!
Quick question, what are Di2 latex covers?
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Quick question, what are Di2 latex covers?
They are just for guiding those Di2 cables through the frame and reduce friction and play between cables and frame on the inserts. They used to be included by TT as i read, some users said they arent anymore.
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Thanks!
So for the first question: The adapter for the fork comes in the box, the adapter for the frame should be a standard shimano adapter, correct? Hopefully no need for expensive genuine special things.
correct, the fork is 160 only. The adaptor they ship works. The rear is standard.
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Finally got around building mine. Routing left side on the cockpit was absolute nightmare, broke my routing tool too. Ended up filing the hole a bit. Lots of snagging on to something and the shifter end hole is just wrong, it looks like it is drilled directly to behind instead of an angle.
Routing mechanical rim brakes on my Lexon cockpit was a breeze compared to this.
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Just shy of 100km first ride. Very comfy ride even with tires pressures being too high. I have 30mm Conti GP 5k S TR on 26 or 27 internal wheels, tires measure pretty much at bang on 33mm.
Drive side has about 3mm space and NDS has a bit less than 3mm. I was thinking of running 32mm on rear but that does not seems necessary considering how soft the ride was.
Cockpit feels like it is too soft, noodly even. Anyone tried stock one and then went for 3rd party option?
On the stand brakes are fine but out of saddle front brake rubs. I checked Specialized manual and they recommend 15nm on thru-axles, highly likely I am not quite that high. Still need to check and probably file the mount a bit.
Using a Ali zero offset post, fit to frame is a bit loose, no slippage though. Dont like the 1 bolt saddle clamp though. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010110922128.html
Maybe I have not quite read every single post carefully enough but SL 8 seat posts *DO NOT* fit this frame? At least how they should?
Overall quite pleased from one ride.
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Just shy of 100km first ride. Very comfy ride even with tires pressures being too high. I have 30mm Conti GP 5k S TR on 26 or 27 internal wheels, tires measure pretty much at bang on 33mm.
Drive side has about 3mm space and NDS has a bit less than 3mm. I was thinking of running 32mm on rear but that does not seems necessary considering how soft the ride was.
Cockpit feels like it is too soft, noodly even. Anyone tried stock one and then went for 3rd party option?
On the stand brakes are fine but out of saddle front brake rubs. I checked Specialized manual and they recommend 15nm on thru-axles, highly likely I am not quite that high. Still need to check and probably file the mount a bit.
Using a Ali zero offset post, fit to frame is a bit loose, no slippage though. Dont like the 1 bolt saddle clamp though. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010110922128.html
Maybe I have not quite read every single post carefully enough but SL 8 seat posts *DO NOT* fit this frame? At least how they should?
Overall quite pleased from one ride.
Well recorded issue with these frames is the poor finish of the brake mounts basically they are not machined flat at factory like the real deal. Same as the BB shell.
I had the same issue with my front brake great in the stand but rub when riding.
To it to a LBS to have the brake mounts and BB shell faced now all good!
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I’m also interested in aftermarket integrated bar options in order to reduce flex. Or do we feel it’s more related to steerer/headset/compression plug area?
If memory serves me correctly I think Pat Lino did this with his and mentioned it in a past video?
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Well recorded issue with these frames is the poor finish of the brake mounts basically they are not machined flat at factory like the real deal. Same as the BB shell.
I had the same issue with my front brake great in the stand but rub when riding.
To it to a LBS to have the brake mounts and BB shell faced now all good!
Dude you are the guy from Italy right who has both gen and replica sl8? Been following you on Strava, my burning question is it possible to use a genuine seatpost on this replica homage frame?been wanting to run that zero offset seatpost. I bought a 3d lightmount for a magene Radar Tail light and the replica seatpost tend to be bigger since the 3d printed light mount wouldnt totally close off and has like 3-4mm of gap? I reckon the homage seatpost IS bigger in diamater compared to the genuine one?
And how do I mod the spacers not to touch the top tube? I have used genuine spacers but too late the paint already rubbed on that part. Appreciate your expert advise!
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Just shy of 100km first ride. Very comfy ride even with tires pressures being too high. I have 30mm Conti GP 5k S TR on 26 or 27 internal wheels, tires measure pretty much at bang on 33mm.
Drive side has about 3mm space and NDS has a bit less than 3mm. I was thinking of running 32mm on rear but that does not seems necessary considering how soft the ride was.
Cockpit feels like it is too soft, noodly even. Anyone tried stock one and then went for 3rd party option?
On the stand brakes are fine but out of saddle front brake rubs. I checked Specialized manual and they recommend 15nm on thru-axles, highly likely I am not quite that high. Still need to check and probably file the mount a bit.
Using a Ali zero offset post, fit to frame is a bit loose, no slippage though. Dont like the 1 bolt saddle clamp though. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010110922128.html
Maybe I have not quite read every single post carefully enough but SL 8 seat posts *DO NOT* fit this frame? At least how they should?
Overall quite pleased from one ride.
Dude thanks for this feedback, is it possible for you to post some images of your setup and a comparison of the seatposts? I have bought my SL8 from yohobikes(the seller is a douchebag) and I have been baited and switched apparently and was told to just ignore some minor flaws (fact carbon 12r in the wrong place in the downtube deliberately ommitted on the QC pics I asked, probably a rejected frame from a previous buyer, totally my fault as I was rushing to build one due to an upcoming local race last year sheesh!)
Now I am debating myself if I will be getting a genuine roval rapide handlebar vs an EXS Aerover and a zero offset seatpost. Did saw some
Offering in aliexpress. I noticed the genuine handlebar and seatpost definitely has a lighter gray tone compared to the ones that come with the yohobike special plus there was no computer mount included in the package for mine hence I went with a tasty looking magcad wahoo bolt v2 that some of the other guys got. Will post my setup soon.
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Front brake rub was easily fixed by minor filing, fast job compared to the horror of my Velobuild Aero Gravel.
Another problem is plasticy squeking from the headset area. At first I was 100% certain that it was from cleats. Noticed that the bottom most spacer is slightly touching the frame at both front and back. Will try if minor sanding will fix it. On my fact finding mission this same problem seems to affect genuine frames too.
Dude thanks for this feedback, is it possible for you to post some images of your setup and a comparison of the seatposts? I have bought my SL8 from yohobikes(the seller is a douchebag) and I have been baited and switched apparently and was told to just ignore some minor flaws (fact carbon 12r in the wrong place in the downtube deliberately ommitted on the QC pics I asked, probably a rejected frame from a previous buyer, totally my fault as I was rushing to build one due to an upcoming local race last year sheesh!)
Now I am debating myself if I will be getting a genuine roval rapide handlebar vs an EXS Aerover and a zero offset seatpost. Did saw some
Offering in aliexpress. I noticed the genuine handlebar and seatpost definitely has a lighter gray tone compared to the ones that come with the yohobike special plus there was no computer mount included in the package for mine hence I went with a tasty looking magcad wahoo bolt v2 that some of the other guys got. Will post my setup soon.
I have not used the setback seatpost that came with it. I slightly modified the Ali post by wrapping two layers of car rock strike protective film on the sides and backside of the post but kept the front part where the clamp touches clean. Titment is better, though it did not slip even without wrapping but I quess it wont do any harm. Still dont like the 1 bolt saddle securing solution, it slipped a bit today when hitting a big pothole.
Frame is 58, group is full ultegra di2, Assioma duo, Elite Rocko cages, Framesandgear wahoo mount. According to my luggage scale it is 7,25kg ready to ride.
(https://i.vgy.me/9vKl7V.jpg)
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Filed the underside of the transition spacer at marked spots just a tiny bit and put some silicone between the spacers. Had silent 6 hours, wonderful. Love the way the bike feels. Starting to think that maybe I like the slightly noodly cockpit for all the comfort it gives. Literally no feelings at all on me hands.
I believe that the compression ring and/or transition spacers are just not really good quality and do not fit together perfectly, probably going to need another treatment sometime down the road.
(https://i.vgy.me/H8wK0i.jpg)
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The headset cap that came with the frame is poorly made and deformed. I bought the original one for 12 euros and it solved the problem.
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The headset cap that came with the frame is poorly made and deformed. I bought the original one for 12 euros and it solved the problem.
Mine is the same deformed, where did you buy the original one?
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It's a original specialized spare part. The product code is in the screenshot.
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Received my frameset yesterday.
Started today with my custom “wink” decals, will coat the bike for a satin shine and protection.
Hopefully i’ll have it assembled by the end of next week.
https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y (https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y)
https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG (https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG)
(https://i.imgur.com/qXjDGbr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KM3a6M9.jpeg)
Btw: anyone used the Chaser hanger? Seems like the size of it is completely different to the hanger that comes with the frame?
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It's a original specialized spare part. The product code is in the screenshot.
Thanks, on which website did you order the parts?
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Received my frameset yesterday.
Started today with my custom “wink” decals, will coat the bike for a satin shine and protection.
Hopefully i’ll have it assembled by the end of next week.
https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y (https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y)
https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG (https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG)
(https://i.imgur.com/qXjDGbr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KM3a6M9.jpeg)
Btw: anyone used the Chaser hanger? Seems like the size of it is completely different to the hanger that comes with the frame?
I used a Chaser rear derailleur hanger on my daughter's x68... And it fits 100%
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Maybe i should try again, it seemed a bit off for some reason.
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Decided to surprise my wife with this frame at 44cm with semi-complete build from Seraph (no wheelset but with 105Di2 pre installed). Now a month or so wait begins for chameleon white.
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Decided to surprise my wife with this frame at 44cm with semi-complete build from Seraph (no wheelset but with 105Di2 pre installed). Now a month or so wait begins for chameleon white.
How much did you pay + shipping ?
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Build is complete and has the first 500km on it. So far really happy with it and how the build (my first) went. No major challenges besides rear caliper facing.
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How much did you pay + shipping ?
US$2,069.00 including $200 shipping and holographic SERAPH
80x360mm bar with 160mm cranks
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Has anyone tried the 0 offset seatpost from AliExpress?
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Has anyone tried the 0 offset seatpost from AliExpress?
I have one
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I have one
Which one? Quality?
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Which one? Quality?
PMed you
Had to torque the single bolt to 9 Nm to prevent it from tilting with my big a**
Off subject : but this 1:1 replicas have an advantage over genuine Chinese designs : you will find spare parts from official SL8 for many years
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PMed you
Had to torque the single bolt to 9 Nm to prevent it from tilting with my big a**
Off subject : but this 1:1 replicas have an advantage over genuine Chinese designs : you will find spare parts from official SL8 for many years
Wish you did ;) try again?
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Wish you did ;) try again?
Your cheapest option is this one fitted perfectly but sent it back cause I chosed wrong length
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGJmkLM
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Has anyone tried the 0 offset seatpost from AliExpress?
I have https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010110922128.html
It is slightly undersized but so far so good, done about 1k km on it. I'd prefer a two bolt option though.
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If it was already sent I apologize, you can look at this https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009069060683.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3HYEpdN)
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Received my frameset yesterday.
Started today with my custom “wink” decals, will coat the bike for a satin shine and protection.
Hopefully i’ll have it assembled by the end of next week.
https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y (https://imgur.com/a/W9QhX4y)
https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG (https://imgur.com/a/3aYYuYG)
(https://i.imgur.com/qXjDGbr.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KM3a6M9.jpeg)
Btw: anyone used the Chaser hanger? Seems like the size of it is completely different to the hanger that comes with the frame?
Did you build it? Really curious to the end result.
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Good morning, after months, I’ve finally managed to finish assembling the bike. I went for a short ride to check everything was in order, and I must say the assembly was relatively straightforward – it’s the first bike I’ve ever put together. The weight, including the temporary pedals (some old Timerxe ones), is 6.920 kg.
I’d like to ask you a favour: could you recommend a Garmin mount for the SL8? Thanks.
I bought one on AliExpress but I don’t like it very much; it hangs too low over the ground.
Thanks
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPf_TrIO5piGfgLo8Q9EdPrCayIbCGOsK6pOPBISnu_XBQH4dmZhFVKc4YCCfAk3A?key=UGtMSk9PSEk5Mm5YN2F1cTAtUC15eWljWE5PSjBR (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPf_TrIO5piGfgLo8Q9EdPrCayIbCGOsK6pOPBISnu_XBQH4dmZhFVKc4YCCfAk3A?key=UGtMSk9PSEk5Mm5YN2F1cTAtUC15eWljWE5PSjBR)
p.s. Can anyone explain how to upload photos directly to the forum? Thanks
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Good morning, after months, I’ve finally managed to finish assembling the bike. I went for a short ride to check everything was in order, and I must say the assembly was relatively straightforward – it’s the first bike I’ve ever put together. The weight, including the temporary pedals (some old Timerxe ones), is 6.920 kg.
I’d like to ask you a favour: could you recommend a Garmin mount for the SL8? Thanks.
I bought one on AliExpress but I don’t like it very much; it hangs too low over the ground.
Thanks
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPf_TrIO5piGfgLo8Q9EdPrCayIbCGOsK6pOPBISnu_XBQH4dmZhFVKc4YCCfAk3A?key=UGtMSk9PSEk5Mm5YN2F1cTAtUC15eWljWE5PSjBR (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPf_TrIO5piGfgLo8Q9EdPrCayIbCGOsK6pOPBISnu_XBQH4dmZhFVKc4YCCfAk3A?key=UGtMSk9PSEk5Mm5YN2F1cTAtUC15eWljWE5PSjBR)
Which wheels are those in the photos?
p.s. Can anyone explain how to upload photos directly to the forum? Thanks
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I have the possibility to build a X68 with carbon wheels and SRAM Rival D1 full groupset / for an exact total of 1990€
Is it a bargain ? Should I sell the groupset (new) for a better one ?
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I have the possibility to build a X68 with carbon wheels and SRAM Rival D1 full groupset / for an exact total of 1990€
Is it a bargain ? Should I sell the groupset (new) for a better one ?
I'm not much of a fan of the D1 Groupsets in comparison with shimano or the SRAM E1s other than that, doesn't sound too bad
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Bye Bye X68...??
This is NOT a hundred percent confirmed. Someone on facebook group said it got told that on a reply via WhatsApp and the model disappeared from their website. So...I don't know?
So, definitely pulled off their sites, but Vivian says to get in touch via WhatsApp to order it offline.
I can smell Specialized lawyers around...
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What has TanTan been up to lately? My last dealings with them was last fall 2025 with the X68.
There was a time when they were pumping out new designs/homage frames almost monthly.
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i am still waiting for my frame to ship shortly.
Maybe they are re-thinking their processes?
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Just had a look and the frameset is no longer available on both Seraph and the tantan sites. Anyone knows what's up?
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Just had a look and the frameset is no longer available on both Seraph and the tantan sites. Anyone knows what's up?
The Frame is still available you need to contact them directly
Vivian
WhatsApp +86 136 9093 8214
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Bye Bye X68...??
This is NOT a hundred percent confirmed. Someone on facebook group said it got told that on a reply via WhatsApp and the model disappeared from their website. So...I don't know?
So, definitely pulled off their sites, but Vivian says to get in touch via WhatsApp to order it offline.
I can smell Specialized lawyers around...
My guess is that ther supplier got in troubles.
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they likely got a cease and desist from Specialized's legal team, and have pulled the "public" availability but apparently you can still buy one.
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Cool, thanks!
The Frame is still available you need to contact them directly
Vivian
WhatsApp +86 136 9093 8214
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There is a big difference between copy or something, especially here "open mould design" AND counterfit, copy using the parent company labels without concesus.
Its like saying all 50mm carbon wheels are counterfits.
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There is a big difference between copy or something, especially here "open mould design" AND counterfit, copy using the parent company labels without concesus.
Its like saying all 50mm carbon wheels are counterfits.
This is wrong. Products do not need to have identical branding to be deemed counterfeit. There are also other types of IP infringement that could cause a product to be considered illegal for sale or manufacture, both under US/EU IP laws and in China.
Distinct designs can be patented too, but they take like 18-24 months to be enforceable, so it's possible that the design patent was granted to Specialized now and these products are now illegal, whereas before the patent was filed but couldn't be enforced.
A copy of many distinct features like this, including the same measurements, is leagues away from a generic 50mm wheel profile.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to share an issue I ran into. I started having a clunking noise while pedaling. While diagnosing the problem and disassembling the bike, I removed the pedals and noticed that the entire right side of the bottom bracket is moving and it turns out the threaded insert in the frame came loose.
I contacted Tantan yesterday, but I’m not very optimistic about the outcome. A local repair would cost around $350–400, and I’m not sure it’s worth investing that much into the frame. At this point, I’m pretty much defeated by this frame and will probably cut my losses and get something else.
video of the issue on gdrive - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EVI789RYTyDpZcbeLtj80V_CRw4xjFPW/view?usp=sharing
Unfortunately, I’ll be off the bike for a few months either way because of this, which really sucks right before the season.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to share an issue I ran into. I started having a clunking noise while pedaling. While diagnosing the problem and disassembling the bike, I removed the pedals and noticed that the entire right side of the bottom bracket is moving and it turns out the threaded insert in the frame came loose.
I contacted Tantan yesterday, but I’m not very optimistic about the outcome. A local repair would cost around $350–400, and I’m not sure it’s worth investing that much into the frame. At this point, I’m pretty much defeated by this frame and will probably cut my losses and get something else.
Unfortunately, I’ll be off the bike for a few months either way because of this, which really sucks right before the season.
Frame seems also to be cracked around the BB. Warranty claim. Let us know the answer of Tantan.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to share an issue I ran into. I started having a clunking noise while pedaling. While diagnosing the problem and disassembling the bike, I removed the pedals and noticed that the entire right side of the bottom bracket is moving and it turns out the threaded insert in the frame came loose.
I contacted Tantan yesterday, but I’m not very optimistic about the outcome. A local repair would cost around $350–400, and I’m not sure it’s worth investing that much into the frame. At this point, I’m pretty much defeated by this frame and will probably cut my losses and get something else.
video of the issue on gdrive - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EVI789RYTyDpZcbeLtj80V_CRw4xjFPW/view?usp=sharing
Unfortunately, I’ll be off the bike for a few months either way because of this, which really sucks right before the season.
Defo warranty.
Why are you not optimistic? what did they say to you?
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I meant that im not very optimistic about the frame now, i've had quite a few issues with it and it's just really annoying at this point.
As for the Tantan i hope they will honor the warranty in some way, they did do it with the fork last summer so lets see, i will definetely post update here once i get a response.
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Hey everyone, just wanted to share an issue I ran into. I started having a clunking noise while pedaling. While diagnosing the problem and disassembling the bike, I removed the pedals and noticed that the entire right side of the bottom bracket is moving and it turns out the threaded insert in the frame came loose.
I contacted Tantan yesterday, but I’m not very optimistic about the outcome. A local repair would cost around $350–400, and I’m not sure it’s worth investing that much into the frame. At this point, I’m pretty much defeated by this frame and will probably cut my losses and get something else.
video of the issue on gdrive - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EVI789RYTyDpZcbeLtj80V_CRw4xjFPW/view?usp=sharing
Unfortunately, I’ll be off the bike for a few months either way because of this, which really sucks right before the season.
I have had the same case in January. It were 150$ for the shipping of a new frame.
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I meant that im not very optimistic about the frame now, i've had quite a few issues with it and it's just really annoying at this point.
As for the Tantan i hope they will honor the warranty in some way, they did do it with the fork last summer so lets see, i will definetely post update here once i get a response.
Do let us know how it goes, this is why this forum exists. Also, if they try to avoid honoring their warranty, point them to the forum and tell them you will light them up on fire, it should help. But i'm hoping they will simply do the right thing. As to paying for shipping, that's normal. I had warranty claims with Farsports years ago, and they made me pay for shipping.
I have had the same case in January. It were 150$ for the shipping of a new frame.
Did you post about it on the forum? This is important info because bottom brackets arent supposed to just desintegrate, it may indicate (along with exploding forks and what not) that Tantan, and that's the precise engineering term, sucks the sweat off a dead man's balls.
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Do let us know how it goes, this is why this forum exists. Also, if they try to avoid honoring their warranty, point them to the forum and tell them you will light them up on fire, it should help. But i'm hoping they will simply do the right thing. As to paying for shipping, that's normal. I had warranty claims with Farsports years ago, and they made me pay for shipping.
Did you post about it on the forum? This is important info because bottom brackets arent supposed to just desintegrate, it may indicate (along with exploding forks and what not) that Tantan, and that's the precise engineering term, sucks the sweat off a dead man's balls.
I think I posted about it some pages ago. Drivetrain side, same issue
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What has TanTan been up to lately? My last dealings with them was last fall 2025 with the X68.
There was a time when they were pumping out new designs/homage frames almost monthly.
New 32er MTB
Nothing road wise.
But sellers are already doing SL9 pre-order so maybe there will be a X72 shortly 😂
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Quick update on my situation:
Tantan offered to send the frame if I cover shipping and painting, "frame free, you pay for paint and shipping." I pushed back but they wouldn't budge, citing that the frame is more than a year old.
Got a feeling that this is the best offer they are willing to do so im not sure now if i should go trough with it or no..
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Quick update on my situation:
Tantan offered to send the frame if I cover shipping and painting, "frame free, you pay for paint and shipping." I pushed back but they wouldn't budge, citing that the frame is more than a year old.
Got a feeling that this is the best offer they are willing to do so im not sure now if i should go trough with it or no..
Honestly mate, based on the policy you’ve shared, their offer doesn’t fully line up with what they’ve written.
The frame is still within the 2 year warranty, and a BB insert coming loose is obviously a manufacturing defect.
Their own wording says defects are covered and they’ll repair or replace at their cost. There’s nothing in there about you having to pay for repainting.
That said… in reality with these OEM brands, what they’ve offered is pretty typical from what you here.
give you a replacement frame
make you cover shipping
sometimes push paint cost onto you
So while it’s not strictly correct by their policy, it’s kind of standard practice I believe.
Can they do shipping and paint at cost? or at least paint at cost? Will they refund any cash?
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I am now on week 6 of waiting for the frame to be shipped. Now promissed this Friday..... very annoing and not the 4 weeks max I was told at the start.
Im at the point that if now shipped next week, I will file a chargeback with PP and CC on file.
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I am now on week 6 of waiting for the frame to be shipped. Now promissed this Friday..... very annoing and not the 4 weeks max I was told at the start.
Im at the point that if now shipped next week, I will file a chargeback with PP and CC on file.
Yohobike sent me one within 1 month (order to delivery in EU) 🤣
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Are they going to produce a bike that hasn't officially been released yet? Lol
Anyway, does anyone know this thru-axle brand called L-works? (Very original name) https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005012209496911.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4cma9Db)
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Keeping this alive in case anyone wants to get something from these guys with what to expect.
Today finally got a reply back saying that the paint on the fork is NOT up to standard and that it will be anoter 10-14 days before thats done and the frame ships. As a good gesture, they offered me a free hanger.... WTF?!?!?!
So now its its going to likely bne 3 months before I get the frame... yeap finling dispute with PP and the CC. Lets see how that goes.
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Yohobike sent me one within 1 month (order to delivery in EU) 🤣
This seller is illegal but got 2 frames from them ultra fast
Building the last one at the moment (UD glossy)
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Took about 24h to get a full refund through PP.
Not sure whats happening with Seraph now because ppl had good experiences in the past. DO NOT RECOMMEND.
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Guys, let me share my oppinion.
I own 2 X68's.
3 of my friends also have it. I can say that all of us do not have issues with it.
Previously I owned S-Works SL5. Had a lot of issues with BB. Do you think that "known brands" solve issues fast ? be my guest and try... just because you paid low money to Chinese brand, does not mean your issue should /will be solved emediatelly and all under your conditions. It's matter of discussion /negotiations and acceptable solutions.
So, not recomending Seraph, is in my oppinion, just not fair statement.
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Guys, let me share my oppinion.
I own 2 X68's.
3 of my friends also have it. I can say that all of us do not have issues with it.
Previously I owned S-Works SL5. Had a lot of issues with BB. Do you think that "known brands" solve issues fast ? be my guest and try... just because you paid low money to Chinese brand, does not mean your issue should /will be solved emediatelly and all under your conditions. It's matter of discussion /negotiations and acceptable solutions.
So, not recomending Seraph, is in my oppinion, just not fair statement.
I kind of agree — you pretty much get what you pay for with a frame like this as it cheap
Personally, if I had a BB issue with this frame, it wouldn’t bother me too much.
With this frame I’ve already managed my expectations.
It landed at around £630 including taxes and a bar, so realistically it’s almost a throwaway item at that price point.
If I was offered a replacement frame but had to pay $150 shipping, would I take it? Probably not without thinking about it. At the end of the day, the BB has failed and it’s likely a manufacturing issue — but unless you can clearly prove that, it usually ends up being your word vs theirs, and even if you did prove it it likely they would still not accept it!
That’s always the situation with these brands:
Customer says it’s a defect
Brand says it’s caused by use or installation
So you end up having to meet somewhere in the middle. Not ideal, but it’s the reality unfortunately but I know people who have had similar issue with the real thing! and still had to jump through hoops to resolve it!
Personally I would maybe wait it out for something like the TT-XSL9 instead 😅
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If you guys are referring to my post "DO NOT RECOMMEND" its nothing about the quality. Its about the straight up lies about delivery and timelines to get the customer in the door.
No way anyone should wait for a bike frame for 3 months, especially thats its nothing special and the "counterfit factories" can make one and delivery under a month.
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Just had a look and the frameset is no longer available on both Seraph and the tantan sites. Anyone knows what's up?
Actually, the TT-X68 frames and complete bikes are back for sale on both websites (TanTan & Seraph).
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Well they now have UDH option for the X68 now.
Thought they might do the X72 for new bike due 😂
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Just a couple of things in case any of you want to build a light X68.
The Hy carbon seatpost from Ali works on my frame. Just a small piece of 3m frame protector where the clamp grabs and carbon paste, seatpost hasn't moved. Around 60g savings from original post and can be setup for 0 offset
And a revelation was the Ryet ultralight full carbon saddle advertised at 58g that came at 60. It is a copy of the Gelu for £60. 240x122mm and super comfy. I'm coming from a Selle Italia SLR Boost Kit Carbonio superflow at 130 width and no problems at all even in long hours on the saddle.
Also Ryet 5.8g carbon bottle cage. Yes, the bottle slides in easily, but never rattles or dropped a bottle
Bike can be built lighter if replacing all bolts to Ti. I only done the most functional ones. Final weight all in 6.2Kg
Regarding the frame in general all is working well and no problems to report
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Well they now have UDH option for the X68 now.
Thought they might do the X72 for new bike due 😂
I'm looking on both the TanTan and the Seraph websites, and I'm not seeing a UDH version of the TT-X68 frameset - where are you seeing this ? Thanks
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I'm looking on both the TanTan and the Seraph websites, and I'm not seeing a UDH version of the TT-X68 frameset - where are you seeing this ? Thanks
https://www.tantanbicycles.com/Super-light-Disc-road-bicycle-carbon-frame-Bike-70032C-Full-Toray-T1000-836G-Flat-mount-brake-frameset-TT-X68-p6417454.html
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https://www.tantanbicycles.com/Super-light-Disc-road-bicycle-carbon-frame-Bike-70032C-Full-Toray-T1000-836G-Flat-mount-brake-frameset-TT-X68-p6417454.html
Thanks !!!
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Hey everyone,
after a crash I need a new derailleur hanger.
Anyone got a recommendation?
Does the normal SL8 hanger (S206000001) work?
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Hey everyone,
after a crash I need a new derailleur hanger.
Anyone got a recommendation?
Does the normal SL8 hanger (S206000001) work?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004508981373.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.677bR1MKR1MKLy&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=693a02ae-1e3b-4e30-b39b-9bdbb1e2e646&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.40050.354490.0%2Cpvid%3A693a02ae-1e3b-4e30-b39b-9bdbb1e2e646%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238111%231996&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2230%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2130.51%2111.29%21%21%2134.39%2112.73%21%400b88ab7917810283336216395e0de5%2112000029411782347%21rec%21IT%21%21ABXZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3Ab99f7bf6%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005004508981373%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
I have been using it for a long time, compatible and rigid
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I used this one from Performance Bike:
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-road-disc-thru-axle-derailleur-hanger-2018-tarmac-venge-s182600003/p749961
I haven’t had any issues. It looks like the same one shown in the AliExpress link
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Chaser also has some nice option https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008148433311.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4nsy7Az)
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If you guys are referring to my post "DO NOT RECOMMEND" its nothing about the quality. Its about the straight up lies about delivery and timelines to get the customer in the door.
No way anyone should wait for a bike frame for 3 months, especially thats its nothing special and the "counterfit factories" can make one and delivery under a month.
I’ve bought two x68s, first one showed up in what I would say was fairly acceptable amount of time. That was just for the standard white no decals version. I ordered a second one that was the Patrick Lino special. It was the sky blue color with the silver Seraph graphics. That one took about a month longer (just over three months) and they forgot to put the graphics on but packed the graphics/decals in the box and I had to put them on doing water transfer and then clearcoat afterward. It’s definitely hit and miss or maybe easier to say buyer beware as the issues have been documented in multiple locations on this forum. But overall, I would rate my experience through two purchases as overall positive.
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I’ve bought two x68s, first one showed up in what I would say was fairly acceptable amount of time. That was just for the standard white no decals version. I ordered a second one that was the Patrick Lino special. It was the sky blue color with the silver Seraph graphics. That one took about a month longer (just over three months) and they forgot to put the graphics on but packed the graphics/decals in the box and I had to put them on doing water transfer and then clearcoat afterward. It’s definitely hit and miss or maybe easier to say buyer beware as the issues have been documented in multiple locations on this forum. But overall, I would rate my experience through two purchases as overall positive.
Good to hear that you have had an overall positive experience with your purchases, I just placed an order for a complete TT-X68 a little over three weeks ago and was quoted 3 - 4 weeks to complete before shipping.
Also, I don't think that most folks will be too concerned about crazyravr's "Do Not Recommend", the majority of the comments on this forum have been very positive about TanTan/Seraph and their products. There will always be one off issues, and it looks like it was just his lucky (or unluckly) turn at bat...
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Took about 24h to get a full refund through PP.
Not sure whats happening with Seraph now because ppl had good experiences in the past. DO NOT RECOMMEND.
I ordered a complete TT-X68 a little over three weeks ago and was quoted three - four weeks to complete the frame painting/wheel build, I'll post how long the whole process (frame painting/wheel build/bike build) actually takes before I receive the shipping notification.
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I ordered a complete TT-X68 a little over three weeks ago and was quoted three - four weeks to complete the frame painting/wheel build, I'll post how long the whole process (frame painting/wheel build/bike build) actually takes before I receive the shipping notification.
Yes and so was I. Please do update like I did. Also, dont be surprised when you stop getting emails from and replies to your emails from them, but that I did expect and its a norm with all these manufacturers.
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Yes and so was I. Please do update like I did. Also, dont be surprised when you stop getting emails from and replies to your emails from them, but that I did expect and its a norm with all these manufacturers.
Well like I said, I'm hoping that your case was the exception and not the new normal for TanTan/Seraph. But I guess that your Siver Lining was that you able to do chargeback and get your money back quickly.
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About to pull the trigger one of these X68 frames and had some questions..
-Is it worth shopping around on AliExpress for an upgraded handle bar, such as ones that are compatible with SL8's? Just how flexy are these stock bars? Has anyone tried a different integrated cockpit with success? Worth it to shop outside of AliExpress?
-Recommend upgrading steerer plug or are folks having good luck with the one supplied?
-Out of precaution, any tools or methods to help clear excess carbon out of the seat tube for Di2 battery?
-Should I just book a time at my LBS to have the brake mounts faced or can it reasonably be done yourself with a file and some elbow grease?
Feel free to recommend any other parts or supplies for the build.
How optimistic is it to expect it's arrival to the states by end of July if ordered tomorrow? (6/12)
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About to pull the trigger one of these X68 frames and had some questions..
-Is it worth shopping around on AliExpress for an upgraded handle bar, such as ones that are compatible with SL8's? Just how flexy are these stock bars? Has anyone tried a different integrated cockpit with success? Worth it to shop outside of AliExpress?
-Recommend upgrading steerer plug or are folks having good luck with the one supplied?
-Out of precaution, any tools or methods to help clear excess carbon out of the seat tube for Di2 battery?
-Should I just book a time at my LBS to have the brake mounts faced or can it reasonably be done yourself with a file and some elbow grease?
Feel free to recommend any other parts or supplies for the build.
How optimistic is it to expect it's arrival to the states by end of July if ordered tomorrow? (6/12)
I use an EXS Aerover bar and have not used the stock bar that came with the frame. Although not having used it, it does not seem very flexy.
I purchased an oem specialized steerer plug. It was fairly inexpensive and also very similar to the one that came with the frame.
I did not have my LBS face the brake mounts, I did it my self. If you choose to do it yourself, just go slow and not take off too much material too quickly.
I would say it likely wouldn’t arrive by the end of July. The first one I ordered took about seven weeks from the date of order, the second one took almost 11 weeks.
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So what's the latest with these frames - any improvements made quality wise?
I am currently riding a nice steel allroad bike (for comfort) and an older aeroframe (for speed) but I am looking to replace the aero bike with something a bit more allround.
The aero bike is amazing when going really fast, but most of my riding is done solo on rolling terrain with no long steep climbs (except the occasional trip somewhere with real mountains).
For comfort, I will keep my steel bike, but I would like something:
- lighter than the aero frame (which probably sits around 1300 g for the fram painted size 56
- doesn't need to have monster clearance, I don't see myself going above 32C width since I have the other bike for that
- still should have some aero credentials
- slightly more forgiving than the aero bike but again for max comfort I ride my steel bike
- still racey geometry
Basically a Cannondale SuperSix Evo but without the price tag :)
Considering the X68, but somehwat put off reading about fork breaking, BB delaminating .etc.....
Also eyeing the new LightCarbon LCR020 / TanTan TTX-67 but I guess those would be really similar to my current aero bike....Looked att the LCR017 but put off by the boxy downtube / not very aero looking tubes.
Yishun R033D looks pretty sweet too, but not sure if they do 1 pc sale to retail customers.
Any other frams to consider?
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So what's the latest with these frames - any improvements made quality wise?
I am currently riding a nice steel allroad bike (for comfort) and an older aeroframe (for speed) but I am looking to replace the aero bike with something a bit more allround.
The aero bike is amazing when going really fast, but most of my riding is done solo on rolling terrain with no long steep climbs (except the occasional trip somewhere with real mountains).
For comfort, I will keep my steel bike, but I would like something:
- lighter than the aero frame (which probably sits around 1300 g for the fram painted size 56
- doesn't need to have monster clearance, I don't see myself going above 32C width since I have the other bike for that
- still should have some aero credentials
- slightly more forgiving than the aero bike but again for max comfort I ride my steel bike
- still racey geometry
Basically a Cannondale SuperSix Evo but without the price tag :)
Considering the X68, but somehwat put off reading about fork breaking, BB delaminating .etc.....
Also eyeing the new LightCarbon LCR020 / TanTan TTX-67 but I guess those would be really similar to my current aero bike....Looked att the LCR017 but put off by the boxy downtube / not very aero looking tubes.
Yishun R033D looks pretty sweet too, but not sure if they do 1 pc sale to retail customers.
Any other frams to consider?
You may want to read deeper into this forum as TanTan fixed the X-68 fork issues a while ago, and I have only seen one case of BB issues (but I may have missed something)...
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About to pull the trigger one of these X68 frames and had some questions..
-Is it worth shopping around on AliExpress for an upgraded handle bar, such as ones that are compatible with SL8's? Just how flexy are these stock bars? Has anyone tried a different integrated cockpit with success? Worth it to shop outside of AliExpress?
-Recommend upgrading steerer plug or are folks having good luck with the one supplied?
-Out of precaution, any tools or methods to help clear excess carbon out of the seat tube for Di2 battery?
-Should I just book a time at my LBS to have the brake mounts faced or can it reasonably be done yourself with a file and some elbow grease?
Feel free to recommend any other parts or supplies for the build.
How optimistic is it to expect it's arrival to the states by end of July if ordered tomorrow? (6/12)
I don't have any issue with the stock bars...but I'm light, and have a puny sprint. There is a little flex in the drops but not horrible and none at tops/hoods.
Mine came with a crap expander. I used an extralite anyway. The one that is a Specialized clone is ok but it can be a giant pain to remove the lower wedge, same with oem.
You'll have a better chance of getting one within your timeline if you order a color that they happen to have in stock...
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So what's the latest with these frames - any improvements made quality wise?
I am currently riding a nice steel allroad bike (for comfort) and an older aeroframe (for speed) but I am looking to replace the aero bike with something a bit more allround.
The aero bike is amazing when going really fast, but most of my riding is done solo on rolling terrain with no long steep climbs (except the occasional trip somewhere with real mountains).
For comfort, I will keep my steel bike, but I would like something:
- lighter than the aero frame (which probably sits around 1300 g for the fram painted size 56
- doesn't need to have monster clearance, I don't see myself going above 32C width since I have the other bike for that
- still should have some aero credentials
- slightly more forgiving than the aero bike but again for max comfort I ride my steel bike
- still racey geometry
Basically a Cannondale SuperSix Evo but without the price tag :)
Considering the X68, but somehwat put off reading about fork breaking, BB delaminating .etc.....
Also eyeing the new LightCarbon LCR020 / TanTan TTX-67 but I guess those would be really similar to my current aero bike....Looked att the LCR017 but put off by the boxy downtube / not very aero looking tubes.
Yishun R033D looks pretty sweet too, but not sure if they do 1 pc sale to retail customers.
Any other frams to consider?
I can offer the other frames I was eyeing as they were somewhat similar in geometry to the SL8/X68:
-SPcycle R088
-Velobuild 268
-Ican A9
-Lightcarbon LCR018 (one size down)
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Can anyone here confirm that the chainstay thickness is the same as the SL8 (I believe 25mm?) at the rear caliper mount? Trying to make sure I have the right length Shimano bolt before the frame arrives.
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Like it ?
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Like it ?
I can understand the funny custom decals, but the stickers on the wheels, come on.
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I can understand the funny custom decals, but the stickers on the wheels, come on.
Will remove them don’t worry
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About to pull the trigger one of these X68 frames and had some questions..
-Is it worth shopping around on AliExpress for an upgraded handle bar, such as ones that are compatible with SL8's? Just how flexy are these stock bars? Has anyone tried a different integrated cockpit with success? Worth it to shop outside of AliExpress?
-Recommend upgrading steerer plug or are folks having good luck with the one supplied?
-Out of precaution, any tools or methods to help clear excess carbon out of the seat tube for Di2 battery?
-Should I just book a time at my LBS to have the brake mounts faced or can it reasonably be done yourself with a file and some elbow grease?
Feel free to recommend any other parts or supplies for the build.
How optimistic is it to expect it's arrival to the states by end of July if ordered tomorrow? (6/12)
At first I thought that the handlebar was a real noodly one, perhaps because just before I built and rode a Velobuild Aero Gravel that literally has no flex anywhere. Now after close to 5k km I find that it just perfection.
I had something on the seat tube but after some juggling Di2 battery went in. Did not come out though when I switched to a 0 offset post. So far no noise from it so I quess for now it can just chill there.
Brake mount filing was a bit of a pain in the ass for the front mount, can still hear a rub on hardset sprints. Rear only required minor filing.
Parts that I replaced: headset bearings, seatpost, derailleur hanger
Parts that I would also have replaced with what I know now: headset spacers
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Will remove them don’t worry
Nahhhhhhhhhh you wont ;) You put them there for a reason.
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Parts that I would also have replaced with what I know now: headset spacers
What was wrong with the headset spacers?
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I message about this bike this morning it is no longer avaiblae. All they have is remaining stock or full bikes apparently someone has bought the mould a customer. Seems strange as it basically and SL8 copy what business would buy this :-\
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What was wrong with the headset spacers?
I dont know if it is because of the material or poor manufacturing but I've had to silicone mine twice because those creaked. I use only the mandatory 2 pieces that guide brake hoses from cockpit to headtube.
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I message about this bike this morning it is no longer avaiblae. All they have is remaining stock or full bikes apparently someone has bought the mould a customer. Seems strange as it basically and SL8 copy what business would buy this :-\
LOL. With the sl9 coming out in a week or two the market for sl8 copies likely is going to be near zero.
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LOL. With the sl9 coming out in a week or two the market for sl8 copies likely is going to be near zero.
I have already ask that question the X72 ;D ;D
Maybe my X68 goes up in value as well ;D
Be interesting to see if it doe pop up for sale rebranded, but cannot see it myself I think with the SL9 due for release next week people will stop buying it but they did have a new UDH version couple of weeks ago as well.
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I have already ask that question the X72 ;D ;D
Maybe my X68 goes up in value as well ;D
Be interesting to see if it doe pop up for sale rebranded, but cannot see it myself I think with the SL9 due for release next week people will stop buying it but they did have a new UDH version couple of weeks ago as well.
The question that I would be interested in seeing answered is with the Tarmac SL9 releasing soon, will Specialized start coming after clones that are basically one for one copies - if they do it might be a good idea to hold on to your TT-X68.
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My x68 isn't going anywhere. If I had a gen sl8 there'd be no reason to upspend for the 9. The only real improvement is the seatpost.
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Anyone else having the problem that the spacers are rubbing the frame?
I'm having two X68 with one having that problem whilst the other doesn't.
Only difference I know is the c ring being different, with the one being supplied by TanTan being installed on the frame with the rubbing.
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Anyone else having the problem that the spacers are rubbing the frame?
I'm having two X68 with one having that problem whilst the other doesn't.
Only difference I know is the c ring being different, with the one being supplied by TanTan being installed on the frame with the rubbing.
Yes had to sand it down. Trap some sand paper between frame and underside of spacers and turn bars left and right!
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The question that I would be interested in seeing answered is with the Tarmac SL9 releasing soon, will Specialized start coming after clones that are basically one for one copies - if they do it might be a good idea to hold on to your TT-X68.
SL9 Release is 30.6.
Sellers are already offering counterfeit SL9s for sale.
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SL9 Release is 30.6.
Sellers are already offering counterfeit SL9s for sale.
Yep, I have been seeing that also. I wonder how close they will be to the real thing, IMHO that is what made the TT-X68 such a pretty good buy (how close it was to a real Tarmac SL8).
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Can someone tell me correct length for rear SRAM caliper through the frame bolts please ?
For 160mm adapter
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Yep, I have been seeing that also. I wonder how close they will be to the real thing, IMHO that is what made the TT-X68 such a pretty good buy (how close it was to a real Tarmac SL8).
The quality and functionality of a frame is not so much its shape as the materials used and the workmanship, and there's a difference of day and night between the SL8 and the X68. If many consider (as I've read in this forum) these two frames remotely comparable, it's only because they use the bike for amateur purposes (like me).
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The quality and functionality of a frame is not so much its shape as the materials used and the workmanship, and there's a difference of day and night between the SL8 and the X68. If many consider (as I've read in this forum) these two frames remotely comparable, it's only because they use the bike for amateur purposes (like me).
So it sounds like you are confirming what many in this forum have already determined, that for their use cases the X68 and SL8 are similar enough in ride feel and handling characteristics to negate the actual material and workmanship differences between the two frames (and at a fraction of the cost). Bravo to you my friend... ;D
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The quality and functionality of a frame is not so much its shape as the materials used and the workmanship, and there's a difference of day and night between the SL8 and the X68. If many consider (as I've read in this forum) these two frames remotely comparable, it's only because they use the bike for amateur purposes (like me).
Sorry, but I also need to comment this post...
We will all NEVER know what exact performance you can get out of SL8 and X68. It can simply be due to personal oppinion / feeling (which is not relevant) OR because we do not know X68 numbers OR we are simply shit riders that can't even use full potential of bikes.
I would also like to hear your arguments comparing X68 to SL8 as day and night. In what ? how do you back this comparisson up with some non-personal facts?
If we blindfold you, and put you on X68 with S-works stickers...are you sure you would reckognize which bike is it? =)
So, there are many of us that can absolutelly agree that X68 frame (700 USD) and SL8 (4-5K€) is more than comparable with ride feel.
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Unfortunately, after a year, I can no longer recommend this frame and must warn against buying it. It started with a scratched top tube due to poor workmanship (a now well-known problem). Today, I couldn't tighten my rear wheel with a torque wrench because the threads are so worn (very poor material quality). I always screwed the thru-axle in by hand and then tightened it completely with a torque wrench. So it wasn't an assembly error. The frame is now scrap and I have to throw it away. It was a very expensive mistake for just one year of use. I contacted Vivian at TanTan and am still waiting for a reply. However, I'm not very optimistic.
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Damn, I’m really sorry to hear that. I hope TanTan can fix the issue, otherwise, you could try re-tapping the thread with a tool like this https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005009892085522.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3zDqCxF)
Good luck
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Unfortunately, after a year, I can no longer recommend this frame and must warn against buying it. It started with a scratched top tube due to poor workmanship (a now well-known problem). Today, I couldn't tighten my rear wheel with a torque wrench because the threads are so worn (very poor material quality). I always screwed the thru-axle in by hand and then tightened it completely with a torque wrench. So it wasn't an assembly error. The frame is now scrap and I have to throw it away. It was a very expensive mistake for just one year of use. I contacted Vivian at TanTan and am still waiting for a reply. However, I'm not very optimistic.
Question, have you been using the supplied thru axle or an after market one? Also, I don't think that you have to worry about "No longer recommending the Seraph/TT-X68" as from what I understand they are no longer selling that frameset. Folks inquiring about buying one have been told that they (TanTan) have sold the molds, have no more framesets in stock, and are only selling the remaining stock of complete X68 bikes.
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Question, have you been using the supplied thru axle or an after market one? Also, I don't think that you have to worry about "No longer recommending the Seraph/TT-X68" as from what I understand they are no longer selling that frameset. Folks inquiring about buying one have been told that they (TanTan) have sold the molds, have no more framesets in stock, and are only selling the remaining stock of complete X68 bikes.
I was told yesterday that they have 44, 52, 56 and 58cm frames left in stock and are selling them offline.
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I was told yesterday that they have 44, 52, 56 and 58cm frames left in stock and are selling them offline.
Sounds like different people get different responses from them, but great if they still have some in stock for those still looking to snag one. Wonder how their limited inventory will affect future warranty claims.
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Vivian replied: Of course, that's not covered under warranty, since I would have damaged the threads... The fork threads don't look very good anymore either. I always tightened the axles by hand and then with a torque wrench. It's simply cheap material quality. That's definitely it for me, and I can only warn everyone against buying from them. Regarding the scratched top tube, she already said I was just unlucky, even though it was clearly a defect in the top cap.
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Sorry, but I also need to comment this post...
We will all NEVER know what exact performance you can get out of SL8 and X68. It can simply be due to personal oppinion / feeling (which is not relevant) OR because we do not know X68 numbers OR we are simply shit riders that can't even use full potential of bikes.
I would also like to hear your arguments comparing X68 to SL8 as day and night. In what ? how do you back this comparisson up with some non-personal facts?
If we blindfold you, and put you on X68 with S-works stickers...are you sure you would reckognize which bike is it? =)
So, there are many of us that can absolutelly agree that X68 frame (700 USD) and SL8 (4-5K€) is more than comparable with ride feel.
I've used the original SL6, SL7, and SL8 for 5 years, and since November I've been riding the X68 on the road, but mainly on rollers.
The difference is night and day.
Even just hitting the two frames with a coin.
You'll notice it on the road at the first bump.
On high-speed descents.
If you try to brake the front wheel from a standstill and push back and forth, you'll see a pronounced flex in the X68.
On rollers, if you sprint, you'll see a pronounced flex in the bottom bracket area.
So the frame LOOKS LIKE a TARMAC SL8... it's not.
Some people say: my friend races with it and it goes fast... OK, I believe it, with a Tarmac it would go even better.
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So I finally received the replacement frame. For context, a couple of pages back I posted about an issue where my bottom bracket thread became loose, and I was offered a replacement frame if I paid for paint and shipping.
The frame looks to be ok. I think they cheaped out on the paint job, and it is honestly quite shitty compared to the original frame I had, but it's close enough, I guess. It seems that at least they faced the brake mounts and BB. I put the bike together and rode 100km on it today already.
It felt maybe a bit stiffer than my previous frame, so they might have made some modifications since I got mine (February 2025).
Nonetheless, I will not be buying anything else from Tantan. Even though I had quite good customer support and they were always helpful with everything, I just had too many problems with it. The frame itself is really a great ride for the money — it feels good to ride, it's comfy and really fast for my recreational riding.
Wish all the rest of you guys more luck with yours down the line! :)
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Yes had to sand it down. Trap some sand paper between frame and underside of spacers and turn bars left and right!
Have tried that, was a bit too much to sand it down, so decided to go with another c-ring from AliX, works without rubbing now, slightly different design on the angle and therefore more room between top cap and frame
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Yes and so was I. Please do update like I did. Also, dont be surprised when you stop getting emails from and replies to your emails from them, but that I did expect and its a norm with all these manufacturers.
As promised Update Time:
- I ordered my complete TT-X68 from Seraph/Rose on the 15th of May and was quoted approx. 4 weeks to paint/build the bike
- Notification that the bike was ready was received on the 21st of June
- Emails reconfirming my telephone number between 22/23 June (wrong telephone Country Code on invoice caused issues)
- The completed bike was shipped on the 25th of June in two boxes (frame in one/wheels in the other)
- 4 July the shipment arrived in Europe and is in the Customs Clearence process
BTW - Rose@Seraph went above and beyond to help me with my order; first I her asked to change the frame color after having already placed the order, her response a day later was "No problem, done". A couple of days later I asked to have the crankarms changed to 165mm, Rose's response was the same. Finally, a week later I asked to have the seat post length changed to a 380mm one, again "No problem". I'm not sure who you had helping you, but my Sales Rep. was Great !!!
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Nahhhhhhhhhh you wont ;) You put them there for a reason.
Full OVERSLOW conversion is done my dear
I told you :-*
Now everyone is staring at this mysterious *FAST* bike 🤣
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Looked better with the stickers lol :) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Good job. Now get proper gumwall tires from Pirelli. Those actually stay that colour.
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Looked better with the stickers lol :) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Good job. Now get proper gumwall tires from Pirelli. Those actually stay that colour.
I know this theory.
That’s the same as those who think that putting on 3 condoms at the same time is the best solution so that the one in the middle always stay clean ???
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Does anyone try the SL8/X68 with the Tavelo Rise bar ?
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Full OVERSLOW conversion is done my dear
I told you :-*
Now everyone is staring at this mysterious *FAST* bike 🤣
I'm not too keen on the blocky "OVERSLOW" font, but the bike looks 100 percent better with those flashy wheel decals removed. Stealth all the way !!!
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I have a 380x110cmbar from Tan Tan Available as I have swapped to Darimo style 380x120cm. I'm surprised they will not sell you one its Tan Tan. She give you a reason?
Hey Sander. Would you be able to link a similar "Darimo style" bar from Ali? I searched for the 2 sellers you mentioned from a past post to no avail...
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Hey Sander. Would you be able to link a similar "Darimo style" bar from Ali? I searched for the 2 sellers you mentioned from a past post to no avail...
Is this the one that you are looking for - https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005010495827785.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.45d159f78KB0d7&algo_pvid=a6927432-f9b5-4c0e-bd77-0ba4e496b4d3&algo_exp_id=a6927432-f9b5-4c0e-bd77-0ba4e496b4d3-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2215%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21176.78%2188.39%21%21%211340.26%21670.13%21%402103864c17837804468836534e7f3d%2112000052607030477%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A491b4bb9%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=e53JkSMrymOG&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005010495827785%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
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Is this the one that you are looking for - https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005010495827785.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.45d159f78KB0d7&algo_pvid=a6927432-f9b5-4c0e-bd77-0ba4e496b4d3&algo_exp_id=a6927432-f9b5-4c0e-bd77-0ba4e496b4d3-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2215%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%21176.78%2188.39%21%21%211340.26%21670.13%21%402103864c17837804468836534e7f3d%2112000052607030477%21sea%21FR%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A491b4bb9%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=e53JkSMrymOG&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005010495827785%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
Thanks but it's a 1 pc integrated bar
...found the post on pg 101
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Thanks but it's a 1 pc integrated bar
...found the post on pg 101
The sellers (RK, Polar and First class) who sell this handlebar are not in the game anymore for now.
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Anyone looking at 0 offset seatposts for SL8, I can confirm that the one I bought from AE fits X68, slightly looser than the seraph post but torqued up and it does not slip. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010144462211.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.73631802VYJCfD&tblci=GiCC4m7NjPqiKcqZte9zc6nQwymmLm1_jCpQPCF6yretFSCnqXUogey87_rbk6idATC062M
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Did you build it? Really curious to the end result.
I'm sorry haven't been on the forum for a long time, but yes i've build it.
Total build weight, including pedals, Wahoo mount and bottle cage came to 6.8KG!
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Forgot to add the photo, not the best one but i really love the look of the bike.
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Forgot to add the photo, not the best one but i really love the look of the bike.
Hello!
The front system is 1X or 2X (Pass Quest). Please share the link to this product.
Thanks!
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Hi!
I loved the look of a 1x but a 2x is just more versatile.
It is a 2x chainring setup.
| Magene kettingblad 110 BCD 4 bouten Pes P505 P515 vermogensmeter 50 34T 52 36T 53 39 54 40 dubbel wielrenfiets kettingblad
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvnwlpG
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Hi,
i`m about to build up a Tarmac SL8 but the frame didn`t come with the Roval Cockpit.
Are there any recommendations here about good quality clones?
Saw some branded as Elita One (which i have had good experience with, especially seatposts) or Ullicyc T-3.
Any other recommendations here? What are you using and how have your`s been holding up?
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Hey everyone,
Has anyone here ever ordered just a standalone fork from Seraph, or tried pairing a Seraph X68 fork with a Yohobike (or other supplier’s) SL8 frame? Did the internal routing ports and headset crown race drop in nicely without fitment issues?
I’m currently about to start building up my SL8 which I brought from Yohobike.
When I took it in to the mechanic, he noticed a gouge on the steerer which extends from the hose port slot. Being concerned, he asked me to send it to a carbon expert for their opinion. As it was going to be a hassle anyways, I ended up sending the frame along for inspection.
The carbon specialist is certified and uses aerospace/military-grade NDT methods based here in Australia.
Upon receiving the report, it says that the frame laminate came back in acceptable condition, bar some minor porosity in the down tube. However the fork came back with large areas of manufacturing voids in the steerer, 17 in total throughout the length. And there are two smaller voids in the legs too.
This confirms that that the fork should not be used.
Since Yohobike seems hard to reach now, I’m looking to source a replacement fork from Seraph instead. Especially as there were improvements made after the earlier incident.
Appreciate any insights!
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the fork came back with large areas of manufacturing voids in the steerer, 17 in total throughout the length. And there are two smaller voids in the legs too.
This confirms that that the fork should not be used.
The thread is 140 pages long, but let's not forget this clone / fake has a documented case here of fork basically collapsing on itself for no reason. Afaik, it's the only case of catastrophic failure from shoddy manufacturing we've seen for years (not that i'm known for my memory).
There's no operational reason why the fork and frame should be made by the same people in the same factory. In fact, would make a lot of sense for a factory to just make forks, given that the composites industry in China is clustered in a few cities where moving products between locations is very easy.
From there, given the stuff is largely illegal, it's not hard to believe that some actors wouldn't exactly do the best QC / layup.
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Right! So you’re saying there’s an every bit of a chance that the fork and frame would come from different factories? How interesting.
So there should be cross compatibility?
I definitely signed up for the risk that this might happen by going down this path. Just glad it was flagged earlier rather down a decent.
The main reason I’m asking about the Seraph fork specifically is because of that exact incident you mentioned. From reading through the thread, it looks like TanTan/Seraph actually addressed that failure by an updated and reinforced version. Since the X68 seems to have a much wider user base with generally positive feedback, I was hoping their updated fork might be a far safer drop-in alternative than whatever Yoho supplied.
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You can contact them, but they're not actively selling the frame any longer, so I'd doubt they'd want to sell you a fork.
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You can contact them, but they're not actively selling the frame any longer, so I'd doubt they'd want to sell you a fork.
Correction - They are back to selling both the frameset and complete bikes on the TanTan/Seraph websites, but some of the sizes are no longer available. From what I heard they had sold the X68 molds, so they may be closing out left-over stock. I wonder how they plan of fulfilling warranty claims that may come in?
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Hey everyone,
Has anyone here ever ordered just a standalone fork from Seraph, or tried pairing a Seraph X68 fork with a Yohobike (or other supplier’s) SL8 frame? Did the internal routing ports and headset crown race drop in nicely without fitment issues?
I’m currently about to start building up my SL8 which I brought from Yohobike.
When I took it in to the mechanic, he noticed a gouge on the steerer which extends from the hose port slot. Being concerned, he asked me to send it to a carbon expert for their opinion. As it was going to be a hassle anyways, I ended up sending the frame along for inspection.
The carbon specialist is certified and uses aerospace/military-grade NDT methods based here in Australia.
Upon receiving the report, it says that the frame laminate came back in acceptable condition, bar some minor porosity in the down tube. However the fork came back with large areas of manufacturing voids in the steerer, 17 in total throughout the length. And there are two smaller voids in the legs too.
This confirms that that the fork should not be used.
Since Yohobike seems hard to reach now, I’m looking to source a replacement fork from Seraph instead. Especially as there were improvements made after the earlier incident.
Appreciate any insights!
Canu please Mark the spots iwith Paint in the Screenshots where U think IT IS critical
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TanTan now starts selling the bike under new name (?) with 14 speed Sensah groupset.
https://www.seraphbikes.com/new-superlight-road-bike-tt-x7-carbon-wheelset-shimano-105-mechanical-or-di2-groupset-4649515356cm-complete-bike-p7143503.html
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TanTan now starts selling the bike under new name (?) with 14 speed Sensah groupset.
https://www.seraphbikes.com/new-superlight-road-bike-tt-x7-carbon-wheelset-shimano-105-mechanical-or-di2-groupset-4649515356cm-complete-bike-p7143503.html
Not the same (same as Twitter X7).
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Here is a picture of the bottom bracket on my X68.
This is the replacement frame as the first frame also had this kind of issues.
TanTan is claiming that only the BB is moving and that their aluminium BB housing is fine...
Honestly, just don't buy any of their stuff
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Here is a picture of the bottom bracket on my X68.
This is the replacement frame as the first frame also had this kind of issues.
TanTan is claiming that only the BB is moving and that their aluminium BB housing is fine...
Honestly, just don't buy any of their stuff
I replayed your video four times and it does look like only the BB is moving. If you are seeing movement in the BB housing area you might want to send them another video showing it.
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I have a creaking sound when pushing > 250W in the bottom bracket area
More a squeezing noise
Already changed BB with brand new Ultegra one : still there
Greased everything on my Magene P515 crankset
Still there
Happens up or down on the saddle
Pedals greased
I am getting mad
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I replayed your video four times and it does look like only the BB is moving. If you are seeing movement in the BB housing area you might want to send them another video showing it.
The only way a bb would rock like that is if the sleeve was moving and/or the threads were shot...
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I replayed your video four times and it does look like only the BB is moving. If you are seeing movement in the BB housing area you might want to send them another video showing it.
I've done that. Ofc it seems like only the BB moves as you can't see the aluminium insert. I'll post that video later
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It seems that they will release the SL8 2.0 aka SL9. They published pictures on their IG page.
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I've done that. Ofc it seems like only the BB moves as you can't see the aluminium insert. I'll post that video later
Not saying that you are not having the issue as you described, just that if all anyone sees is the BB moving how do you expect TanTan/Seraph to evaluate and respond accordingly to your issue? Anyway, good luck...
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I have a creaking sound when pushing > 250W in the bottom bracket area
More a squeezing noise
Already changed BB with brand new Ultegra one : still there
Greased everything on my Magene P515 crankset
Still there
Happens up or down on the saddle
Pedals greased
I am getting mad
Have a check on the bottom bracket housing...
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I have a creaking sound when pushing > 250W in the bottom bracket area
More a squeezing noise
Already changed BB with brand new Ultegra one : still there
Greased everything on my Magene P515 crankset
Still there
Happens up or down on the saddle
Pedals greased
I am getting mad
FAST and easy
DO THIS:
Grease through axles AND FRONT FORK
FRONT AND REAR (WHEEL - FRAME- through axles - threads) CONTACT POINTS .
!!!! DONT USE CARBON PASTE IT DOESNT WORK!!
u need "real Grease " something like Botttom Bracket GREASE
MORE WORK:
Grease and clean PEDALS and tigghten them on correct Torque
creaking comes when u push wats while sitting on your Saddle?:
Yes ->>>> issure comes fro msaddle clean and Grease
NO ->>> saddle is fine
did it help?
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Here you can see the aluminium housing moving...
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Here you can see the aluminium housing moving...
i would put the frame at 90 degrees, and pour super glue between the frame and the sleeve. flood the zone. Super glue is very thin. if you flood the whole area, it should hold. obviously, dont put glue on the threads...
afaik, you cant use epoxy, unless you find a super liquid epoxy. but honestly super glue is super strong.
given the tiny amount of play, i wouldnt worry too much about alignment.
Shimano makes plastic BBs because tolerances on bikes have been atrocious forever. a fraction of a millimeter shouldnt matter too much. You did buy a clone from a seller with bad reputation, so using super glue feels legit.
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i would put the frame at 90 degrees, and pour super glue between the frame and the sleeve. flood the zone. Super glue is very thin. if you flood the whole area, it should hold. obviously, dont put glue on the threads...
afaik, you cant use epoxy, unless you find a super liquid epoxy. but honestly super glue is super strong.
given the tiny amount of play, i wouldnt worry too much about alignment.
Shimano makes plastic BBs because tolerances on bikes have been atrocious forever. a fraction of a millimeter shouldnt matter too much. You did buy a clone from a seller with bad reputation, so using super glue feels legit.
Sounds like the best idea I heard until now.. I was thinking about letting it repair professionally... But will cost half the price of the frame at least.
And yeah I learned my lesson about TanTan and their reputation 😅
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The X68 is back - now resembling the SL9.
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Here you can see the aluminium housing moving...
I have a bad feeling that the same fate awaits my replacement frame, so I'll start looking for another one while this bike is still rideable. 😞
I really love the feel and geometry of the SL8, so if any of you have suggestions for a good replacement, I'd really appreciate any advice. But yeah, im done with TanTan too, never again.
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Haha, I'd still want to see a few long-term ride reports before calling it a better alternative. Geometry is only part of the story.
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I have a bad feeling that the same fate awaits my replacement frame, so I'll start looking for another one while this bike is still rideable. 😞
I really love the feel and geometry of the SL8, so if any of you have suggestions for a good replacement, I'd really appreciate any advice. But yeah, im done with TanTan too, never again.
For me, it happened on both frames... The one I bought in 2025 and the replacement I got in early 2026
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Haha, I'd still want to see a few long-term ride reports before calling it a better alternative. Geometry is only part of the story.
people are reporting BB sleeves moving around in the frame. Call me old fashioned, but if you have to glue stuff yourself to be able to ride the frame, alternatives are badly needed. It's nothing new, but the number of lemons that tantan has been shipping over the years is impressive, it's almost as bad as airwolf. I like value driven purchases, but would i buy a tantan to bomb down alpine mountain passes? Just no. Crashing hurts.
That said, people will keep buying SL7-8-9 clones / fakes no matter what, and i suspect tantan is making a ton of money catering to that market.
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Haha, I'd still want to see a few long-term ride reports before calling it a better alternative. Geometry is only part of the story.
Regarding long term report, for the SL8 Fake X68. Until the BB housing was moving, I liked the frame. Felt stiff enough for me. Was doing some nice rides, feels pretty stable in handling. Maybe only downside. It doesn't feel as planted on the road as some other frames I have. I did a total of 7'500km on the two frames.
Would I buy it again? Hell no. One moving bottom bracket housing may happen, shouldn't but may happen. The second time simply must not happen. Add to that, that I had to pay $150 for the replacement frame's shipping... So I'd say after sales support is there, but not really great.
I guess you get what you pay for.
I'd propably get the R088 from SP-Cycle, or the Mondince FM126, if I'd want another bike with the same geometry
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Regarding long term report, for the SL8 Fake X68. Until the BB housing was moving, I liked the frame. Felt stiff enough for me. Was doing some nice rides, feels pretty stable in handling. Maybe only downside. It doesn't feel as planted on the road as some other frames I have. I did a total of 7'500km on the two frames.
Would I buy it again? Hell no. One moving bottom bracket housing may happen, shouldn't but may happen. The second time simply must not happen. Add to that, that I had to pay $150 for the replacement frame's shipping... So I'd say after sales support is there, but not really great.
I guess you get what you pay for.
I'd propably get the R088 from SP-Cycle, or the Mondince FM126, if I'd want another bike with the same geometry
So what happened to the first frame, did you get to keep it?
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people are reporting BB sleeves moving around in the frame. Call me old fashioned, but if you have to glue stuff yourself to be able to ride the frame, alternatives are badly needed. It's nothing new, but the number of lemons that tantan has been shipping over the years is impressive, it's almost as bad as airwolf. I like value driven purchases, but would i buy a tantan to bomb down alpine mountain passes? Just no. Crashing hurts.
That said, people will keep buying SL7-8-9 clones / fakes no matter what, and i suspect tantan is making a ton of money catering to that market.
I just went back through the forum threads a little over 50 pages and I can only find two instances of folks mentioning BB issues not related to facing (one noise related, and the other possible BB sleeve related).
I have no idea how many X68 frames TanTan/Seraph sold, but two reported instances does not equate to a systemic problem (unless they only sold two X68 frames - lol). Reading the posts, it looks like the vast majority of people are very happy with their X68 builds.
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So what happened to the first frame, did you get to keep it?
Yeah I could keep it and had the BB housing repaired by LBS.
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The X68 is back - now resembling the SL9.
T47? Odd choice...
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Yeah I could keep it and had the BB housing repaired by LBS.
Okay, that was what I was hoping you would say. So, the LBS confirmed that the frame BB sleeve was lose and completed a repair - do you mine sharing what the repair cost you.
Again, I'm not attempting to diminish your BB issue, but I don't think a product company exist that has not had lemon or a recall. Just in the last 7 months (through the end of July 2026) Ford has issued a total of 61 recalls covering approximately 13,297,648 vehicles, maintaining a wide margin as the most-recalled automaker this year. Even big-name bike companies like Specialized, Shimano, Sram, etc. have all had serious safety related recalls.
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Okay, that was what I was hoping you would say. So, the LBS confirmed that the frame BB sleeve was lose and completed a repair - do you mine sharing what the repair cost you.
Again, I'm not attempting to diminish your BB issue, but I don't think a product company exist that has not had lemon or a recall. Just in the last 7 months (through the end of July 2026) Ford has issued a total of 61 recalls covering approximately 13,297,648 vehicles, maintaining a wide margin as the most-recalled automaker this year. Even big-name bike companies like Specialized, Shimano, Sram, etc. have all had serious safety related recalls.
Repair cost were 260€.
The issue is not that things aren't perfect, the issue is the way they handle it. And also you only hear some issues, there's for sure more. And yeah loose BB sleeves aren't the worst, but it's not something you hear of other frames anymore, especially not after a year or even less of usage. Those aluminium/carbon issues were something I was aware of in the 2010s, but not nowadays. And as said other than that I can't complain about the two frames. Yeah they for sure aren't from the same factory. If you look close you can spot differences between the two. The replacement frame also not being as nice as the other. For example the hole for the rear derailleur hanger screw was not drilled properly. Such minor things.
I just think you can get a better frame quality for the same money from other companies
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Totally unrelated to my bottom bracket issues.
Did anyone measure the angle of the cockpit unit?
As I'm having two frames, and only one cockpit unit, I'd built the other frame with 120mm stem with -6° and it seems that the -6° stem is still 1cm higher in the front than the cockpit unit with supposedly -6° and 120mm...
It seems that the unit in fact has -10°. Yeah you can think I am totally crazy but could anyone else measure the angle of their cockpit
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Totally unrelated to my bottom bracket issues.
Did anyone measure the angle of the cockpit unit?
As I'm having two frames, and only one cockpit unit, I'd built the other frame with 120mm stem with -6° and it seems that the -6° stem is still 1cm higher in the front than the cockpit unit with supposedly -6° and 120mm...
It seems that the unit in fact has -10°. Yeah you can think I am totally crazy but could anyone else measure the angle of their cockpit
I just measured mine using two different protractors and it's -6 degrees.
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Okay if I measure on the top cap, I get -17° against flat, whilst I get -1,5° if I measure against flat on top of the uni
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Picture of a -6° tarmac stem compared to the cockpit I am using (which I got with the frame)
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Jeesh.. All of this bottom bracket talk has me feeling like I made the wrong decision. My 54cm will be here sometime next week.
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Jeesh.. All of this bottom bracket talk has me feeling like I made the wrong decision. My 54cm will be here sometime next week.
All this talk about BB issues is one person with two confirmed BB sleeve issues, and one person with what seems like a bad BB. So out of all of the X68's sold and the lack of other reported BB issues, I'm betting that you will probably be okay unless you install yours incorrectly. YMTCs
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All this talk about BB issues is one person with two confirmed BB sleeve issues, and one person with what seems like a bad BB. So out of all of the X68's sold and the lack of other reported BB issues, I'm betting that you will probably be okay unless you install yours incorrectly. YMTCs
I also would tend to agree, although im'm sure I haven't installed it incorrectly ;)
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I also would tend to agree, although im'm sure I haven't installed it incorrectly ;)
Lol - I certainly did not mean to imply that you installed "your" BB incorrectly. Just that IMHO when you have one or two isolated issues with a whole product line it normally points towards a lemon (worker had a bad day, bad part, bad QC, etc.), poor maintenance, or improper usage/incorrect installation. In your case I would lean towards you got the lemons.
BTW - I just got my TT-X68 (complete bike with Ultegra build) a little over two weeks ago, now watch karma turn around bite me in the butt and a couple months from now you see me posting about my loose BB sleeve and how TanTan/Seraph is jerking me around - lol...
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Lol - I certainly did not mean to imply that you installed "your" BB incorrectly. Just that IMHO when you have one or two isolated issues with a whole product line it normally points towards a lemon (worker had a bad day, bad part, bad QC, etc.), poor maintenance, or improper usage/incorrect installation. In your case I would lean towards you got the lemons.
BTW - I just got my TT-X68 (complete bike with Ultegra build) a little over two weeks ago, now watch karma turn around bite me in the butt and a couple months from now you see me posting about my loose BB sleeve and how TanTan/Seraph is jerking me around - lol...
Fingers crossed your BB sleeve won't move.
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i repeat what i've already wrote in another post, just to be sure that newcomers will save their money: do not buy tantan or seraph, unless the frame costs less than 200$ (in that case, it could be worth to flip the coin and try one of their frames)
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i repeat what i've already wrote in another post, just to be sure that newcomers will save their money: do not buy tantan or seraph, unless the frame costs less than 200$ (in that case, it could be worth to flip the coin and try one of their frames)
Also for any Newcomers, it is important to remember that this is "His Opinion" and that there mostly positive opinons of TanTan/Seraph frames on this forum. It should go without saying that you (the perspective buyer) should do your own research before buying any product.
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Also for any Newcomers, it is important to remember that this is "His Opinion" and that there mostly positive opinons of TanTan/Seraph frames on this forum. It should go without saying that you (the perspective buyer) should do your own research before buying any product.
I am riding a tantan frame since 2019. It's still there, I've done races and granfondo with it. Nevertheless, I had to fix plenty of minor issues, with no customer care because, if something goes wrong, tantan simply block you like a disappointed teenager. The forum is full of this kind of experiences.
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I am riding a tantan frame since 2019. It's still there, I've done races and granfondo with it. Nevertheless, I had to fix plenty of minor issues, with no customer care because, if something goes wrong, tantan simply block you like a disappointed teenager. The forum is full of this kind of experiences.
"The forum is full of this kind of experiences." Most folks don't post on forums (reddit, chinertown, etc.) unless they feel the need to complain about an issue, I'm not saying that those issues are not actual problems just they are normally coming from a minority of users.
But no matter what, all of our experiences together with TanTan/Seraph is exactly why I highly recommend that potential buyers do their own research and use some common sense. If I go on reddit and look on the forums for Garmin or Apple watches, I'm going to maybe hundreds of varies types of complaints. To put those hundreds of complaints into perspective, care to guess how watches Garmin/Apple sold just in 2025 - Apple sold an estimated 33 million and Garmin over 20 million watches in 2025.
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But no matter what, all of our experiences together with TanTan/Seraph is exactly why I highly recommend that potential buyers do their own research and use some common sense. If I go on reddit and look on the forums for Garmin or Apple watches, I'm going to maybe hundreds of varies types of complaints. To put those hundreds of complaints into perspective, care to guess how watches Garmin/Apple sold just in 2025 - Apple sold an estimated 33 million and Garmin over 20 million watches in 2025.
That's borderline gaslighting to compare Apple and tantan. The issue rate on tantan frames is legendary, and so is their propensity to ghost people. Apple is the opposite.
While Tantan does volume that is probably higher than most other providers talked about on this forum, although I wouldn't be able to quantify that, I'm pretty sure they sell more lemons out of 100 frames than anybody except airwolf.
Realistically, people will buy from tantan no matter what because a lot of people just love sworks and factor, but they simply are not a trustworthy or reliable supplier.
Edit: I've been on this forum since 2023. rosteven's 1st message is from this summer. Experience is a thing. Also, assuming that spending 700$ on a frame should only get you hot garbage implies a lacking understanding of this industry.
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Oh guys, come on...
at the end, we are talking about frame that costs 700usd.
If anybody is so sceptical at any stage buying Tan Tan bike (or any brand in this price range), and can't deal with risk of having some minor issues, than just go buy original SL8 for 5000usd and you will sleep easily. Maybe your wife won't =)
I have 2 X68's at home. Both with truly excellent performance. I know 3 friends also having same bike, no issues
But even if I would, in worst case scenario, replace frame and/or deal with 700 USD loss. Whatever... It's definitely worth trying.
p.s. Owning original S-works SL5 and having huge issues with BB in the past, also is not something you solve easily with well known brand...FYI
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That's borderline gaslighting to compare Apple and tantan. The issue rate on tantan frames is legendary, and so is their propensity to ghost people. Apple is the opposite.
While Tantan does volume that is probably higher than most other providers talked about on this forum, although I wouldn't be able to quantify that, I'm pretty sure they sell more lemons out of 100 frames than anybody except airwolf.
Realistically, people will buy from tantan no matter what because a lot of people just love sworks and factor, but they simply are not a trustworthy or reliable supplier.
Actually you are not "pretty sure they sell more lemons out of 100 frames than anybody except airwolf", you are making an opinionated guess. My point of using Garmin/Apple is to illustrate that we have numbers that we can point to (items sold vs complaints on social media). Since you seem to be pretty sure of the TanTan/Seraph items sold vs lemons, would you be so kind as to share those numbers with the viewing public? Just joking because I know that neither you, I, or anyone else on this forum has those numbers, we are all just voicing our opinions - and you know what they about opinions - right.
Bugo (below) said it best, it's a "$700 frameset" so if you can't stand the heat get out of the fire - lol. I purchased my X68 as an experiment and if it blows up after a year (or less) of use, I will feel that I got my monies worth...
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Actually you are not "pretty sure they sell more lemons out of 100 frames than anybody except airwolf", you are making an opinionated guess. My point of using Garmin/Apple is to illustrate that we have numbers that we can point to (items sold vs complaints on social media). Since you seem to be pretty sure of the TanTan/Seraph items sold vs lemons, would you be so kind as to share those numbers with the viewing public? Just joking because I know that neither you, I, or anyone else on this forum has those numbers, we are all just voicing our opinions - and you know what they about opinions - right.
Bugo (below) said it best, it's a "$700 frameset" so if you can't stand the heat get out of the fire - lol. I purchased my X68 as an experiment and if it blows up after a year (or less) of use, I will feel that I got my monies worth...
I appreciate everyone has their own opinion, and I'll be the first to admit TanTan have earned themselves a bit of a sketchy reputation . However, I do think once you get to a certain price point, you have to accept that risk increases while expectations around quality and support need to remain realistic.
We all know the big brands are building a lot more into the price of a frameset. You're not just paying for carbon and manufacturing. You're paying for warranty support, dealer networks, marketing, sponsorships, after-sales service and all the overheads that come with a major brand. Expecting exactly the same level of support from a direct-to-consumer OEM factory selling frames at a fraction of the cost In my opinion is unrealistic.
Personally, with my X68 i was prepared to lose out on that frame, it was $795usd with a handlebar and shipping which for me is about £590 which is just crazy cheap!. If something went wrong and it could be resolved, great. If not, I'd chalk it up to experience, maybe not buy from them again, and move on. That's the risk I accepted when I bought it.
Yes, there have been reports of issues with the X68 and TanTan in general. But let's be realistic here, every brand has failures. The difference is often whether you hear about them or not. The only difference is that those cases don't always end up discussed on forums.
At the end of the day, everyone has to decide what level of risk they're comfortable with. For some people a $5-600usd frameset is worth the gamble, for others it isn't. Neither side is wrong.
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I appreciate everyone has their own opinion, and I'll be the first to admit TanTan have earned themselves a bit of a sketchy reputation . However, I do think once you get to a certain price point, you have to accept that risk increases while expectations around quality and support need to remain realistic.
We all know the big brands are building a lot more into the price of a frameset. You're not just paying for carbon and manufacturing. You're paying for warranty support, dealer networks, marketing, sponsorships, after-sales service and all the overheads that come with a major brand. Expecting exactly the same level of support from a direct-to-consumer OEM factory selling frames at a fraction of the cost In my opinion is unrealistic.
Personally, with my X68 i was prepared to lose out on that frame, it was $795usd with a handlebar and shipping which for me is about £590 which is just crazy cheap!. If something went wrong and it could be resolved, great. If not, I'd chalk it up to experience, maybe not buy from them again, and move on. That's the risk I accepted when I bought it.
Yes, there have been reports of issues with the X68 and TanTan in general. But let's be realistic here, every brand has failures. The difference is often whether you hear about them or not. The only difference is that those cases don't always end up discussed on forums.
At the end of the day, everyone has to decide what level of risk they're comfortable with. For some people a $5-600usd frameset is worth the gamble, for others it isn't. Neither side is wrong.
Well said Sander2177, I think that we have all beat this dead horse enough.
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I have a creaking sound when pushing > 250W in the bottom bracket area
More a squeezing noise
Already changed BB with brand new Ultegra one : still there
Greased everything on my Magene P515 crankset
Still there
Happens up or down on the saddle
Pedals greased
I am getting mad
Just to check: What pedals and cleats are you using? I know it sounds stupid, but Look Keo are famous for that squeezing noise if not waxed. Also, not a slight rubbing from the FD cage due to flex?
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Just to check: What pedals and cleats are you using? I know it sounds stupid, but Look Keo are famous for that squeezing noise if not waxed. Also, not a slight rubbing from the FD cage due to flex?
Well you might be right I will try with other pedals - I will keep you updated since I already greased and torqued everything I could on the crankset + the BB replacement changed nothing
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Hey everyone, first time post here.
I have built a X68 frame in August 2025, and I have been riding it since then. To help on anyone looking to buy the current version and next version of the X68. I thought it would be good to share my experience with it. It also help me document my own work for the next build. (Excuse my english, it is not my first language).
To give you a bit of context: this is my 5th frame build. I previously built four other bikes (Elves twice, and an older/shady Eisenbike twice where I had to deal with aero stay / bb issues).
I’ve been riding the X68 mostly in good weather for about 5,000 km, mainly doing heavy climbing/descending in the mountains, I live in the French Alps, a classic weekend ride average 1800-2000m of elevation. (Important note for you to understand my POV)
Here is the full breakdown from ordering to riding.
1. Pre-Purchase, Communication & Custom Paint
Buying process: Contacted Seraph directly via email with Rose. Super responsive.
Custom Painting: Worked with Summer Support on a custom design and logo. Feedback was swift (1-day turnaround for mockups).
Payment: Paid directly via standard PayPal, smooth transaction.
Lead time: Around 3 months total (standard timeframe when requesting custom paint).
Shipping & Unpacking: 10 to 15 days for delivery once shipped. Well packed, no damage on the frame or fork.
2. Build & Mechanical Assembly
Overall, the build process was very clean and straightforward.
Internal Routing & Finishing: I was pleasantly surprised. The inside of the tubes was remarkably clean, almost looked like it had been sanded down internally—very rare at this price point. Routing through the frame, fork, and handlebar went without a hitch.
Hardware & Tolerances:
All missing/damaged parts? None. Everything was supplied.
Classic issue: Brake caliper mounting bolts were a bit too small for the back caliper. And bolts are not rust proof, I suggested to change them from day 0 when mounting the bike. I like to keep my bike clean and even with the blower, some rust started to appear on some few bolts. I replaced them with some titanium bolts.
🔧 Two Critical Tweaks to Watch Out For:
Front Brake Mount Alignment: Due to the custom paint layer, the front brake caliper mount on the fork wasn’t completely flat. I had to use a facing tool (80e from aliexpress) to sand/level the two holes properly. Front alignment was off because of it. (Rear mount was perfectly fine).
Top Cap / Compression Plug: The stock cockpit compression plug cap is a replica of the Specialized Tarmac SL8 cap, but made of cheap/soft material. It bends easily even when torqued well below 10 Nm. Fix: Replaced it with a genuine Specialized top cap (got it for 5e from my local bike shop). Much stiffer, provides proper compression, and keeps the headset play-free.
3. Ride Quality & Performance
The Good:
Paintjob: Insane paintjob, I was surprise by the colors. For the extra US$150, completely worth it. (My motto: If I can't be fast on the bike, I can be at least beautiful 🤣)
Value for money: Exact paid price on August 2025 US$589.00 for the frame kit, it rides surprisingly well. (PS: Got some Tagoola AR Super light wheels, it does add comfort in the ride)
Reliability: No issues with the BB, seatpost slipping, rear brake, or handlebars after 5,000 km.
Flat / Moderate Terrain: On flats and gradients under 8–9%, the bike feels great, responsive enough, and very comfortable.
The Compromises (Rigidity & Mountain Descents):
As expected for a lightweight frame at this price tier, lateral and longitudinal stiffness are limited—particularly in the fork.
Sprinting / Out-of-the-saddle climbing: Under heavy power (putting watts down standing up already around mini 700-800w), there is noticeable flex in the front fork, causing slight disc rotor rub.
High-Speed Mountain Descents: This is the main drawback if you ride in the mountains:
Speeds up to 60–70 km/h on moderate slopes are completely fine.
However, on steep descents with hard braking at high cruising speeds, the front fork lacks longitudinal stiffness and exhibits fore-aft micro-chatter / vibration.
Note: This is a recurring trait, I encountered on light/budget frames (had the exact same issue on my former Eisenbike builds). If you mostly ride flat/rolling terrain, you will likely never experience this.
Summary Verdict
Pros: Great customer service (with Rose), clean internal finishing, custom paint process is top-notch for a cheap frame, of course pretty cheap.
Cons: Soft stock top cap (swap it immediately), replace all bolts provided, front brake facing required if custom paint, front fork lacks stiffness for aggressive mountain descending.
Hope it helps ! Don't forget to Do Your Own Research
Here are some shots of the bike.
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Well you might be right I will try with other pedals - I will keep you updated since I already greased and torqued everything I could on the crankset + the BB replacement changed nothing
No need to try new pedals for checking this. Just rubbing some candle wax on pedal mechanism at the back, plate and cleats contact points should confirm if the noise comes from the keo cleats
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Tried my friend pedals still the same
Every part of the BB/crankset have been checked and regreased
Must be the rear derailleur hanger or something with the back wheel
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Story of my X68 with a 105 Di2 groupset and Elite 55 mm wheels.
When the bike arrived, the only issue was a sliding seatpost, but a rubber glove piece fixed it perfectly.
There were no other problems until I fell while trying to turn around (narrow spot, walking speed). Since then, a small noise has appeared in the bottom bracket area when pedaling. The faster I ride, the quieter it gets, but the noise is loudest when climbing or start ride. It seems to come from both sides of the cranks, and it’s still present when riding out of the saddle, so it’s probably not related to the seatpost. The noise has gradually increased over time and is now really annoying.
What we’ve already done: replaced the bottom bracket, changed the pedals, and greased all relevant parts (BB, pedals, chainrings). The noise remains exactly the same and still seems to come from the BB area. I don’t see any cracks in the frame.
What else could be causing this noise? Could it be a crack inside the frame? It’s my first carbon bike, very beautiful, but the noise is driving me crazy...:(
Mileage: 3000 km only.
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What else could be causing this noise? ...
Check if the BB sleeve isn’t loose.
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no, it's not moving at all, stable.
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no, it's not moving at all, stable.
Check rear wheel, derailleur hanger and bolt etc
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Story of my X68 with a 105 Di2 groupset and Elite 55 mm wheels.
When the bike arrived, the only issue was a sliding seatpost, but a rubber glove piece fixed it perfectly.
There were no other problems until I fell while trying to turn around (narrow spot, walking speed). Since then, a small noise has appeared in the bottom bracket area when pedaling. The faster I ride, the quieter it gets, but the noise is loudest when climbing or start ride. It seems to come from both sides of the cranks, and it’s still present when riding out of the saddle, so it’s probably not related to the seatpost. The noise has gradually increased over time and is now really annoying.
What we’ve already done: replaced the bottom bracket, changed the pedals, and greased all relevant parts (BB, pedals, chainrings). The noise remains exactly the same and still seems to come from the BB area. I don’t see any cracks in the frame.
What else could be causing this noise? Could it be a crack inside the frame? It’s my first carbon bike, very beautiful, but the noise is driving me crazy...:(
Mileage: 3000 km only.
What type of BB and crankset are you running, usually BB noise come from loose BB or crankset. Make sure they are both tight. Check with the specification but they need should tight between 35-50 nm.
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Can’t believe it, it was actually the rear thru‑axle and hanger bolt. There was a bit of dirt inside, cleaned it, tightened bolts, and the creaky noise disappeared. Thanks, guys!
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Hey All,
Update on my super old reply number 824 in this thread (May 4, 2025 on page 55). Bike has been great up until last week. Nearly 6000 miles over 14 months or so. Bottom bracket sleeve on drive side has come loose and is rocking in the frame. Still waiting on reply from TanTan customer service to see what they'll do, but if they offer a $150 replacement as they have for others I will probably decline. Bike has been fine and not sure for the price this isn't to be expected, but personally hate the feeling of waiting for something to go wrong and will probably go with a brand with better reputation in the future unless they go above previous support they have offered others. Thought those still considering a purchase would like the information!
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A carbon frame should last well north of 50,000km. If it fails after what many ride in less than one season, it's not fit for purpose.
Someone else had that problem recently, I suggested super glue. They probably use the worst imaginable epoxy to bond the sleeve in an effort to save 3 cents per frame. I would feel great thinking that the people who built my frame tried to shave every cent they could, off a design they stole.
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A carbon frame should last well north of 50,000km. If it fails after what many ride in less than one season, it's not fit for purpose.
Someone else had that problem recently, I suggested super glue. They probably use the worst imaginable epoxy to bond the sleeve in an effort to save 3 cents per frame. I would feel great thinking that the people who built my frame tried to shave every cent they could, off a design they stole.
Yeah I also think that don't use an epoxy that fits this purpose.
I'll try it with HP-E60K epoxy to fix the loose sleeve..
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Yeah I also think that don't use an epoxy that fits this purpose.
I'll try it with HP-E60K epoxy to fix the loose sleeve..
Might not be worth the cost since it's hard to get in small quantities and ends up being expensive, but I think the right stuff is Hysol 9359. You also might find it labeled as the Loctite brand. This is designed for aluminum + carbon. I *think* E60K should be better than any hardware store epoxy, but without knowing the gaps between the bonding surfaces my big reservation is the lack of glass beads and it being too thin to fill said gaps. But it's like 1/6th the cost of the Hysol product, so i get it for a frame like this one.
Edit: Not endorsing this repair in terms of long-term efficacy or safety, just stating how I would personally do it if it were my bike and I wanted to fix it.
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Might not be worth the cost since it's hard to get in small quantities and ends up being expensive, but I think the right stuff is Hysol 9359. You also might find it labeled as the Loctite brand. This is designed for aluminum + carbon. I *think* E60K should be better than any hardware store epoxy, but without knowing the gaps between the bonding surfaces my big reservation is the lack of glass beads and it being too thin to fill said gaps. But it's like 1/6th the cost of the Hysol product, so i get it for a frame like this one.
Edit: Not endorsing this repair in terms of long-term efficacy or safety, just stating how I would personally do it if it were my bike and I wanted to fix it.
I know this might not be the solution that holds forever, but I think giving it a shot for 20€ instead of professional repair for 280€ might be worth the try. I also fear E60K might be to thin, but on the other hand, I need something that creeps into the gap, where I think UHU 2K Epoxy, which you get in the hardware store might be to thick. And for superglue (cynacrylate) I'm not sure about its longevity.
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A carbon frame should last well north of 50,000km. If it fails after what many ride in less than one season, it's not fit for purpose.
Someone else had that problem recently, I suggested super glue. They probably use the worst imaginable epoxy to bond the sleeve in an effort to save 3 cents per frame. I would feel great thinking that the people who built my frame tried to shave every cent they could, off a design they stole.
Oh I agree with you a 100%. By "should be expected" I meant more I probably should have spent a bit more on a brand with a better reputation and actually designing their own frames.
As far as epoxy or self repair I definitely wouldn't trust myself to get the sleeves aligned properly so the bearings would seat parallel, much less do it in a way that would hold up long term. And I would always worry about something else breaking anyway. Would hate to think what would happen if it was the threads for one of the thru axles that came loose instead.
No reply from Tan Tan as of yet so think I'll be a one and done customer of theirs at this point.
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Did anyone replace the bolts and axles on their X68?
as some of my bolt start to rust (especially fork clamp) I was thinking about replacing at least some. Can I use the genuine bolts?
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Hi,
have anyone also some issue with squeaking noise when braking at the front wheel? I’ve already swapped different rotors and pads. I’m worried the caliper mount isn’t 100% aligned or that something is being transmitted through the fork.
Best regards
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Yes, I have same issue all the time.
No cleaning / replacing pads helps.
I think (my amateur oppinion is) that there is a vibration going on.
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Did anyone replace the bolts and axles on their X68?
as some of my bolt start to rust (especially fork clamp) I was thinking about replacing at least some. Can I use the genuine bolts?
Just checked mine, cockpit clamp bolts have quite a bit of surface rust. Quite worrying as this is from about 6 months and a bit over 7k km in 95% good conditions and bike is stored in the dry and dried after washing and I dont even wash it all that often. Dont live near the sea either.
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Did anyone replace the bolts and axles on their X68?
as some of my bolt start to rust (especially fork clamp) I was thinking about replacing at least some. Can I use the genuine bolts?
Yup, I have replaced all of them on stem. They were heaviliy rusty after very short time. I bought new set of screws on TI-Parts.
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Had go replace brakepads, and couldnt get rid of disc noise. Tried to face it with a file.. took away too much now the fork is dead 😅 RIP
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Had go replace brakepads, and couldnt get rid of disc noise. Tried to face it with a file.. took away too much now the fork is dead 😅 RIP
Update: inserts weren't straight, fork is beyond repair now.
Anyone tried to install a real SL8 fork by accident? Wishful thinking someone did this I guess. :)
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Hey
Why don't you just simply buy new X68 fork?
I guess costs are ridicilously low + tell them to focus on facing off surface..just an idea...