Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: neobiker on May 08, 2025, 01:07:23 AM
-
It looks a lot like their LCG072-D with the X seat stays.
You can check the catalogue for more details.
I think I will pull the trigger on this one (again).
The only issue is the lead time for this one in 540 is December
-
Inspired by SEKA Spear?
@Serge: you have to download the catalogue... "2025-2026 LightCarbon Frame+Component Catalog -V1"
-
What catalogue? Where? The frame isn't listed on the website but I also don't see a catalogue link.
I assume it's very new?
Potentially super interesting. Even though the number of duds in the 17D posted on this forum alone is Fing scary.
https://fr.lightcarbon.com/category/downloads/1
Take the 2025-2026.
-
Wow ! The perfect combo with non-agressive endurance position, light and aero. Hope it will come soon, december is so far !
-
Has anyone already asked what the frameset is expected to cost?
-
that's a nice looking frame. Luckily for my wallet there's no size for a taller rider
-
Yes, I ask for a pricing and they said 625 USD/set, which is around 75 USD more than what is used to be, but I guess inflation (or USD depreciation is a real thing).
-
Inspired by SEKA Spear?
@Serge: you have to download the catalogue... "2025-2026 LightCarbon Frame+Component Catalog -V1"
They had the first version last year with the cross before the Seka Spear, I would say Pinarello X5/Dogma X were the first with such design.
-
What catalogue? Where? The frame isn't listed on the website but I also don't see a catalogue link.
I assume it's very new?
Potentially super interesting. Even though the number of duds in the 17D posted on this forum alone is Fing scary.
Edit: catalogue attached, thanks for the link.
And the insta link w some of the pictures: https://www.instagram.com/p/DJYaOvZMnZP/
Edit: an interesting competitor to the upcoming Gran Turismo frame by Peter at Xiamen Carbon Speed.
Geometry differences are confusing me. The 18D is longer at any given stack, to the point where you find yourself wondering if a 56 in one is a 54 in the other.
GT to take 35C, which means much more than 35mm (36mm wide rims fit the GT for eg). I have very mixed feelings about 38C myself, because it's not 38mm, it means much more, and i dont think i want a road bike that can clear 45mm or whatever the max tyre measured width a 38C allows (it's the main thing that has been bothering me about the 301 open mould by Long Teng, i feel 40+mm tyres is too much. Peter's frame should be c.100g lighter, monocoque, so manufacturing / materials wise, should be quite a bit fancier, not that this matters for the vast, vast majority of us. Implies the 18D should be cheaper than the GT, though, and that matters very much.
Peter started selling the GT, afaik, there are real frames in existence, vs this is Dec25 for the 1st mould?
I'm excited because i think a vast chunk of westerners need higher stack, lower reach bikes, with 35C clearing, aero frames that are light enough. That way, you can tackle anything on the road, fast, including the occasional tame gravel section / road works, or gravel on dirty road when cornering in the mountains, road debris on forest roads and the likes, cracked pavement, without having to slow down. But what i dont want is a gravel bike with road tyres, i tired, it sucks.
Good to see LC doing that. A lot of manufacturers are focusing on long and low because the chinese population is younger, built different, and very happy with (super) low stack bikes.
Is the Gran Turismo the new endurance frame discussed in the other Endurance Aero Thread?
As for the availability, I think the frame has already been produced many times because it looks identical to the LCG-072 (look at Gravel threads), and my wild guess is the exclusive right for the design are ending in December maybe?
-
It's not clearly visible, but I hope there is internal storage.
-
If by the same frame you mean different frame, different geometry table and different specs, then yes, the 072 is the same as the 018. At this rate, so is my grand mother, if she worked at light carbon.
Idk which "Endurance Aero Thread" you're talking about.
Fair point about the geometry.
This thread: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4173.0.html
I think the different in price point will make the comparison less relevant anyways (carbon speed is speced at 1500 USD, at LC at 625).
-
Love the concept of the bike. geometry is ok (some jumps in between sizes), but design wise seems a mix-match. I prefer more standard looking ones.
But i’m sure i’ll have clients for this. Good quality and service. Looking forward to have one in my hands
-
If the tire clearance wont be too extreme and 38mm would be quite tight, and really about max - then this will for certain be my next build.
Built SPCycle g069 recently, and looking to build a more road oriented build.
Will need size 54, and this frame geometry look almost optimal for me. Only things i would like to change a little in that size would be:
*Little less tire clearance, maybe down to real max clearance of 700x35c. (4mm clearance to chainstay-sides).
*Seat tube angle 74deg
*Head tube angle 72.5deg
That would be my optimal frame for road i think. The angles are quite close, if only wheel clearance is not that extreme i will certainly buy it!
-
from quick glance it looks like the geometry is very close to the ENVE Fray, looking forward to this bike. I just wish it was coming out this summer.
-
Looks good! Endurance and an aero frame :D I'll probably run a 120mm stem
-
I like the geo of this one, seems fitting for unfit people like myself. Not sold on the design yet, but maybe I will be convinced when I see it in other colors, I guess I'll have to wait a year and see when they start popping up. :D
-
The LCR018-D frame will be available in September, the 52cm size has been tested, and the 55cm size is currently being tested. This frame will be matched with the latest HBR18 ultra-light handlebar.
-
The LCR018-D frame will be available in September, the 52cm size has been tested, and the 55cm size is currently being tested. This frame will be matched with the latest HBR18 ultra-light handlebar.
Jimlee. What price are we looking at on this with and without the handlebars? Thanks
-
Wow, that frame looks absolutely beautiful! It perfectly meets all the requirements I have. Since I’m not very familiar with Lightcarbon, I was wondering if there’s a custom paint option available when ordering. Once it becomes available in size 56, I might consider ordering one.
-
Altough this seems to be nearly the perfect bike for me, I am scared this endurance-light gravel geometry will feel dull and boring. Cycling is my hobby, and i like to be comfortable, but i dont want to loose the feeling of pure adrenaline and speed on decents or fast corners. I dont really care about the couple of watts (Enve Melee vs Fray with rider is a 4.4W difference with rider @40kph), but it do care about the joy my hobby brings me.
Am i exaggerating or is my concern valid?
Btw Enve Melee vs Fray with rider is a 4.4W difference with rider @40kph, 3.3w without rider. Fray seems pretty similar to the LCR018-D while the Melee is being raced at the top of the sport.
-
Am i exaggerating or is my concern valid?
It depends on your prior experience with the bikes.
Extreme example as if you had trail bike your entire cycling story and then jump on some relaxed gravel bike such as Giant Revolt. For sure it would feel like a rocket ship on less technical terrain.
-
My only non-commutingbike is a Flanders squadra.
A dated extrenally routed rim brake road bike with 25mm tyres with a (too) small stack
Thrilling to ride? Yes
Fast? No
Comfortable? No
-
My only non-commutingbike is a Flanders squadra.
A dated extrenally routed rim brake road bike with 25mm tyres with a (too) small stack
Thrilling to ride? Yes
Fast? No
Comfortable? No
All else being equal, your position is the main drag on your system, and after a few hours on the saddle, you can only keep an fast position if you are comfortable. Comfort is speed.
-
We lost some posts to the software migration though I read them and remember that somebody had a date for the bigger frame sizes? Would be nice to refill your knowledge into the thread - I am very intrigued by the frame and would plan a build if I had some rough time frame.
-
The LCR018-D frame will be available in September, the 52cm size has been tested, and the 55cm size is currently being tested. This frame will be matched with the latest HBR18 ultra-light handlebar.
When I look in the catalog, the HBR18 looks like a gravel bar with a lot of flare (16 deg). Seems like a mismatch for this bike which seems more suited for all road.
-
Any updates to the lead time? I like the look of this but I'd be a 58 which isn't yet listed with a release date.
-
Any updates to the lead time? I like the look of this but I'd be a 58 which isn't yet listed with a release date.
"LCR018-D 58 real frame is expected to be available around October -December 2025.
LCR018-D costs US$625/set (Black matte finish without logos by default.)
Unit price includes Frame +fork +seat post+clamp +headset bearings+headset spacers +thru-axles+ integrated handlebar HBR17
Optional handlebar HBR17 wide 36/38/40/42cm wide, stem length 80/90/100/110/120/130mm
The size 52cm will be the fist production, and then 50, 54, 56, 47 and 58cm
Shipping cost to Belgium for one frame is US$161 by DFS express
(Duty free shipping, you don't need pay taxes & vat when package arrive"
-LC via WhatsApp
I think i posted this earlier aswell but it seems te removed. Or I am going insane during my finals.
-
DEC 2025? I think I’ll be ordering one as a Christmas gift to myself…
-
DEC 2025? I think I’ll be ordering one as a Christmas gift to myself…
Probably will do the same for me as well haha
-
They will be on Eurobike from tomorrow on:
https://eurobike.com/frankfurt/en/exhibitor-search/exhibitor-directory.detail.html/xiamen-lightcarbon-composite-technology-co-ltd.html#exhibitorheadline
Will visit on Thursday, probably Friday, too, and ask them more about that model, as it is not in the line up of their Eurobike profile - only LCR017-D and the gravels
Definitely, will check the Gravel frames, with Storage + Suspension.
-
from quick glance it looks like the geometry is very close to the ENVE Fray, looking forward to this bike. I just wish it was coming out this summer.
Fits perfectly in the category of (and how it compares in a size 58):
-Envee Fray (is slightly higher, rest close to identical)
-Canyon Endurace (is slighty shorter and higher, slightly sharper headtube=>snappier steering yet less stable)
-Cervelo Caledonia (Reach and stack identical, slightly blunter headtube=>stable steering yet less snappy)
-BMC Roadmachine (slightly higher,slightly blunter headtube=>stable steering yet less snappy)
BB drop also all in the range of 3mm on all these bikes.
Wheelbase also all in a 2.5% range with the LC in the middle of the range.
Front center ratio is between 40.2% to 41.3% with the LC in the middle of the range with 40.7%
Seems like a road bike for the people.
Not a thoroughbred race bike
Not a thoroughbred endurance bike
-
I have this feeling a lot of taller riders riders have struggles with road bikes fitting. Hence i have the feeling endurance-style bikes are more popular in larger sizes. Is this bias true?
LightCarbon seems to listen to customers a lot, so if you can affirm this bias, we might be able to shuffle the order of production of frame sizes and get the larger sizes earlier.
If I am just living in a bubble, please tell me.
-
New paintjob aswell
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1 (https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1)
Damn i almost feel like a salesman
-
New paintjob aswell
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1 (https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1)
Damn i almost feel like a salesman
That new colourway is slick.
-
New paintjob aswell
https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1 (https://www.instagram.com/p/DLU4MrQxrBf/?img_index=1)
Damn i almost feel like a salesman
But there's no storage in the downtube, is there?
-
That new colourway is slick.
I think they call it marble silver (see marble red). I want deep ocean red
-
But there's no storage in the downtube, is there?
According to their sales representatives at Eurobike you can choose with/without compartment. I asked twice, because the first model there (which Hambini and Trace filmed) has none, but the said, this afternoon the other LCR18 bike should arrive with the compartment.
-
This photo is from their 2025-26 catalog. it looks like there can be a storage compartment, visible in the upper photo and the scheme direkt under the front bottle mount.
-
According to their sales representatives at Eurobike you can choose with/without compartment. I asked twice, because the first model there (which Hambini and Trace filmed) has none, but the said, this afternoon the other LCR18 bike should arrive with the compartment.
When I placed my order, it was not mentioned that you could choose between a model with or without a storage compartment. I think this might be a prototype without the compartment. According to the catalog, it does have one, but I’ll ask again to be sure.
-
I was at Eurobike today and had a great chat with Wendy. I can confirm that the frame is available in two versions – with and without storage in the downtube. Both versions are on display at Eurobike. Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos – sorry about that!
-
Send the order email yesterday to them for the '18, Size 50 - availability from October! Decals/paint is extra. -> The mail was also from Wendy in the evening, seem's they are quite busy!
I might go there again on Sunday to confirm paint-job, ask about price levels for paint-jobs and check out the version with compartment. Also will ask about the compartment door - the Carbonda had one with integrated pump + minitools.
Here the price info from her mail:
but the estimated lead time will aroung October 2025 [...]
LCR018-D 50cm newest price is US$650/set
Unit price includes Frame +fork +seat post+clamp +headset bearings+headset spacers +thru-axles+ integrated handlebar HBR17+one storage bag
Color: LCB-902GD (Crystal Red). costs US$160/set
Shipping cost for one frame to your address is US$164 by DFS express
(Duty free shipping, you don't need pay taxes & vat when package arrive)
One standard balck matte frame LCR018-D total amount as below:
1) Paypal (4.5%handling charge )--Total amount is US$1018 (650+160+164+44)
2) International Bank transfer(US$30 charge single time)--Total amount is US$1004 (650+160+164+30)
3) PayPal Friend & Family,WeChat pay, Alipay, Chinese bank (No payment fee)--Total amount is US$974 (650+160+164)
-
Send the order email yesterday to them for the '18, Size 50 - availability from October! Decals/paint is extra. -> The mail was also from Wendy in the evening, seem's they are quite busy!
I might go there again on Sunday to confirm paint-job, ask about price levels for paint-jobs and check out the version with compartment. Also will ask about the compartment door - the Carbonda had one with integrated pump + minitools.
Here the price info from her mail:
Please note, the frame is not aero gravel, it's aero all-road bike frame LCR018-D, max tire 38C,
if you want bigger tire, change the frame to LCG074-D which max tire 50C,
Geo data of LCR018 and handlebar HBR17 as below link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/35w6cWmEnxtNHBUp8
size 52/54cm will be in Auguest, other size in September, now can book it
EXW price is USD$650, Frame set including frame+ seat post + fork +handlebar + seat clamp+ head set+ front & rear thru-axle,
Color: UD matt, (painting customized is acceptable with extra cost.)
Shipping cost according your address with postcode, we can ship to EU and USA mainland including all duties,
-
Quick update on the LCR018 frame version (with/without downtube storage):
There was some confusion about this, so I reached out to Jim directly for clarification.
He confirmed that the LCR018 frame is available in two versions – with and without storage in the downtube.
At the time I placed my order, only the version without storage was available.
The good news: if you prefer the version with downtube storage, you can request it at no extra cost and without any delay in delivery.
I've opted for the version with storage and will also receive a matching storage bag for free.
Hope this info helps others here as well!
-
Please note, the frame is not aero gravel, it's aero all-road bike frame LCR018-D, max tire 38C,
if you want bigger tire, change the frame to LCG074-D which max tire 50C,
Geo data of LCR018 and handlebar HBR17 as below link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/35w6cWmEnxtNHBUp8
size 52/54cm will be in Auguest, other size in September, now can book it
EXW price is USD$650, Frame set including frame+ seat post + fork +handlebar + seat clamp+ head set+ front & rear thru-axle,
Color: UD matt, (painting customized is acceptable with extra cost.)
Shipping cost according your address with postcode, we can ship to EU and USA mainland including all duties,
Hi Jim, I know this is a bit out of turn since I'm not planning on buying a frameset right now, but I wanted to see if you've considered making a racier geometry. Something along the lines of using the size 47 stack for the 52 frame, with the 72.6-degree HT of the 56, but still using the 51mm offset fork. The reach may need to extend slightly to maintain the ~590mm FC. Similar to what Trek did to make the RSL version of their Domane.
For larger riders, a size 56 frame, paired with the stack from the 52, and utilizing the 51mm offset fork, would likely complete the range. I'm not sure if a 54 or 58 would make sense, given the overlap with the rest of the size range. Going smaller is also difficult because you don't want the head tube to get too small.
That said, I suspect that size 52 would be more popular. Riders are lowering their saddles, but they can't size down without being too far forward relative to the wheelbase. This is less of an issue for riders who would use the 56.
Even if these had no frame storage and only came with a higher-end layup, I suspect there would be a market for something like this.
-
Quick update on the LCR018 frame version (with/without downtube storage):
There was some confusion about this, so I reached out to Jim directly for clarification.
He confirmed that the LCR018 frame is available in two versions – with and without storage in the downtube.
At the time I placed my order, only the version without storage was available.
The good news: if you prefer the version with downtube storage, you can request it at no extra cost and without any delay in delivery.
I've opted for the version with storage and will also receive a matching storage bag for free.
Hope this info helps others here as well!
The free down tube storage bag is for customers who have ordered before.
if later cost USD$10/pc,
-
Hi Jim, I know this is a bit out of turn since I'm not planning on buying a frameset right now, but I wanted to see if you've considered making a racier geometry. Something along the lines of using the size 47 stack for the 52 frame, with the 72.6-degree HT of the 56, but still using the 51mm offset fork. The reach may need to extend slightly to maintain the ~590mm FC. Similar to what Trek did to make the RSL version of their Domane.
For larger riders, a size 56 frame, paired with the stack from the 52, and utilizing the 51mm offset fork, would likely complete the range. I'm not sure if a 54 or 58 would make sense, given the overlap with the rest of the size range. Going smaller is also difficult because you don't want the head tube to get too small.
That said, I suspect that size 52 would be more popular. Riders are lowering their saddles, but they can't size down without being too far forward relative to the wheelbase. This is less of an issue for riders who would use the 56.
Even if these had no frame storage and only came with a higher-end layup, I suspect there would be a market for something like this.
We will consider it, thanks for your suggestion. But it won't be this year. We have designed too many new frames this year, and the mold cost is beyond the plan.
-
Would be interesting to poll this, but I'm pretty sure westerners, far and wide, need less aggressive geometries, not more.
Just watched TraceVelo mention this frame, instantly went here to look up some geometry to see if it could be suitable for me. Super happy to see it's a bike that doesn't seem to be made for asian ratios. Might consider building this at one point (Although the Carbon Speed endurance framea also looks good), but to me this has a lot of what I would like in a bike. The internal storage is also pretty nice.
-
We will consider it, thanks for your suggestion. But it won't be this year. We have designed too many new frames this year, and the mold cost is beyond the plan.
Thanks. Completely understand and thanks for the reply.
Would be interesting to poll this, but I'm pretty sure westerners, far and wide, need less aggressive geometries, not more. There are plenty of Chinese frames with super low stacks, and very few attractive frames with less reach and more stack. Looking online and in real life, it seems that the trend for the West going forward is less reach, more stack.
Maybe... Users please like that post if you agree / you're after such a "western market 2.0" frame, or like sakizashi s previous message if you want more aggressive geometries in general?
I know this is a popular talking point among youtubers and podcasters right now, but IMO its sort of a pointless discussion. There is a reason endurance geometries exist and if you need one you should buy one. I dont think its based on ethinicity though, at least not to the point where it cant be compensated for adjustments to components / seatposts. That is a sort of a weird take, when we have moved away from men / women specific bikes.
For race bikes in particular the topic is a lot more interesting, because of fit trends evolving towards being longer instead of being lower, thus stacks have slowly crept up a couple of CM. This, though shouldnt be universal across the rize range because 700c wheels already force smaller riders into a different position and IMO the narrative around race bikes getting taller has ignored smaller men and women, just like the UCI. Chinese brands largely dont solve the problem either as the reach tends to be too short. It’s worth noting that aero race bikes are not getting shorter. They are getting longer.
That said, I wasn’t asking for a typical aero race bike. I was suggesting building a race bike that fits 38mm tires (optimized for 32-35mm), similar to the bike that won two back to back editions of the Paris Roubaix Femmes. This is still a rare bike and of the Chinese brands, this one really close to making that happen with right fork offset and rear triangle design already existing. I also dont think you need a full size range to make this work just a couple in the middle to cater to riders who are fit constrained by the current geos. I think the market would be niche, but its a pretty empty one.
-
What's the moulding process for these frames? EPS or bladder + PU inserts?
How does the inside of the frames produced by this manufacturer look like?
-
Would be interesting to poll this, but I'm pretty sure westerners, far and wide, need less aggressive geometries, not more. There are plenty of Chinese frames with super low stacks, and very few attractive frames with less reach and more stack. Looking online and in real life, it seems that the trend for the West going forward is less reach, more stack.
Maybe... Users please like that post if you agree / you're after such a "western market 2.0" frame, or like sakizashi s previous message if you want more aggressive geometries in general?
If you are going high and short, it is more in line with endurance mindset and this is fine. Modern race bikes move towards higher stack and same reach (and sometimes steeper ST angle), which enables aero position without compromising on back and hip angle. Think of latest Supersix Evo, Merida Reacto, SC-R55 etc. So I think what you suggest is endurance frame with racy appearance
Classic race geometry would work for someone with short legs and long torso (see Remco Evenpoel, Caleb Ewan).
-
Does the frame have UDH hanger?
-
Does the frame have UDH hanger?
Yes
-
@JimLee
Is there a bigger weight difference between the model with and model without down tube storage?
-
Does the frame have UDH hanger?
Long time lurker but 1st post.
I’ve been talking with light carbon and apparently it isn’t UDH.
I’d assume they would know, but I’d like clarification on this as it’s a dealbreaker for me.
Weirdly my next frame is either this if it’s UDH, or a new Aspero 5. Hopefully the market will catch up to big tire road frames and not gravel so you can fit decent size tires and a 48t+ single chainring.
-
According to the photos on the first page it’s an UDH hanger.
-
Hey all,
i'm feeling a strong nostalgia for this forum, like my earlier days of the internet with forums were you could get so much information without any shitty ads and videos, just reading and not viewing a 5min yt tutorial, for something that would 5 Step text-instruction. But hey, that's the time we live right now.
But back to the topic, i just ordered the frame.
Felt a bit in love with the design and the endurance geometry. This will be my second "china" and third overall frame build.
Checked the forum, checked other sources for any kind of information about LightCarbon.
Went to the EuroBike few weeks ago and checked there booth, got in touch with Wendy from LC.
And than, ordered the frame.
My expectations are all over from: yeah, best 900€ spend of my life and i will probably crash on the first ride due to the frame brake in half.
Let's see how it goes ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
-
According to the photos on the first page it’s an UDH hanger.
I spoke with another contact at LC and they’ve said it’s actually a mini UDH.
I’ve no idea what that is so awaiting more info.
-
I spoke with another contact at LC and they’ve said it’s actually a mini UDH.
I’ve no idea what that is so awaiting more info.
I'm interested in this frame, but if it does not support "Full Mount" for the new Sram Rival/Force XPLR derailleur, it's a deal breaker.
-
My expectations are all over from: yeah, best 900€ spend of my life and i will probably crash on the first ride due to the frame brake in half.
Let's see how it goes ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Welcome and thanks for sharing! Could you perhaps elaborate about what's included in the 900EU price? Compared to the 650USD (558EU direct conversion) quoted for the whole set earlier on this thread. Custom paint and shipping make up the 300+EU difference?
And did they indicate when they would ship your frame, and what size did you get?
-
I also ordered the frame, around 900€. Custom paint is 200 USD, delivery is 130 USD, and PayPal fee adds 5%.
-
Welcome and thanks for sharing! Could you perhaps elaborate about what's included in the 900EU price? Compared to the 650USD (558EU direct conversion) quoted for the whole set earlier on this thread. Custom paint and shipping make up the 300+EU difference?
And did they indicate when they would ship your frame, and what size did you get?
Depends on the paint job, which was 180$ + DFS 164$ to Germany and 45$ PayPal = 1039$ -> 899€ (when you have a CC which will not charge extra fees for paying in a different currency)
-
I'm interested in this frame, but if it does not support "Full Mount" for the new Sram Rival/Force XPLR derailleur, it's a deal breaker.
The latest update is that “theoretically” it will work with XPLR. They’ve modified UDH (so have Factor) so the new standard is already being changed to suit individual company needs. We might as well stick with regular hangars if that’s the case.
From the recent conversation there were two deal breakers. 1. max single ring size of 42 which is way too small for a road bike.
2. They say it “should” and “theoretically” work with XPLR. It’s all a bit too fluffy to commit to buying a Frameset and groupset to try for myself.
Ah well, gorgeous looking frame.
-
Hi, I'm new around here, but I've been stalking this topic for some time now. So, I decided to register and post, since I'm 90% set on buying one of these frames... :D
My plan is to swap the frame from my actual gravel bike (2023 Orbea Terra) for this one, but there are some questions I'm looking into, which I kindly ask if some of you can help me with...
So, my actual gravel bike, as stated, is an Orbea Terra from 2023 with carbon frame (M size), with 2x Shimano GRX mechanical transmission and 40mm Caracal Race tires. From the pictures of this LCR018-D frame, I see mounting hardware and holes on the frame that allow the use of my actual 2x mechanical transmission, right?
Another big question is about the tire clearance, as for my gravel riding, the Caracal Race tires in 40mm are a must. I know this frame is rated for 38c tires, but the pictures of the Eurobike'25 build show it has Wolfpack Gravel Superspeed TLR 40-622 tires mounted. There seems to be some clearance left on the frame and fork, and according to BRR, although they have the same rated size as the Caracal Race TLR 40, these tires are actually 2mm thinner after install (using the same control rim and tire pressure, BRR states de Superspeed is 38,3mm wide and the Cararal 40,3mm wide). Is it safe to assume the 38c tire clearance is conservative, as with other frame manifacturers, and this frame will take the Caracal Race TLR 40 which has a real 40mm semi-slick profile?
Regarding that Eurobike'25 build, the frames on the Google Photos link and catalog, they all seem to be from the same frame size. Do you now which size it is?
Thanks.
-
The latest update is that “theoretically” it will work with XPLR. They’ve modified UDH (so have Factor) so the new standard is already being changed to suit individual company needs. We might as well stick with regular hangars if that’s the case.
From the recent conversation there were two deal breakers. 1. max single ring size of 42 which is way too small for a road bike.
2. They say it “should” and “theoretically” work with XPLR. It’s all a bit too fluffy to commit to buying a Frameset and groupset to try for myself.
Ah well, gorgeous looking frame.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLPQgMUjPu4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLPQgMUjPu4)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLPQgMUjPu4Mean it looks in the video like for the old style hanger (bolt with left thread from outside) you use the UDH interface on the frame.
And for a derailleur with a fullmount you also use the UDH interface on the frame?
Hi, I'm new around here, but I've been stalking this topic for some time now. So, I decided to register and post, since I'm 90% set on buying one of these frames... :D
My plan is to swap the frame from my actual gravel bike (2023 Orbea Terra) for this one, but there are some questions I'm looking into, which I kindly ask if some of you can help me with...
So, my actual gravel bike, as stated, is an Orbea Terra from 2023 with carbon frame (M size), with 2x Shimano GRX mechanical transmission and 40mm Caracal Race tires. From the pictures of this LCR018-D frame, I see mounting hardware and holes on the frame that allow the use of my actual 2x mechanical transmission, right?
Another big question is about the tire clearance, as for my gravel riding, the Caracal Race tires in 40mm are a must. I know this frame is rated for 38c tires, but the pictures of the Eurobike'25 build show it has Wolfpack Gravel Superspeed TLR 40-622 tires mounted. There seems to be some clearance left on the frame and fork, and according to BRR, although they have the same rated size as the Caracal Race TLR 40, these tires are actually 2mm thinner after install (using the same control rim and tire pressure, BRR states de Superspeed is 38,3mm wide and the Cararal 40,3mm wide). Is it safe to assume the 38c tire clearance is conservative, as with other frame manifacturers, and this frame will take the Caracal Race TLR 40 which has a real 40mm semi-slick profile?
Regarding that Eurobike'25 build, the frames on the Google Photos link and catalog, they all seem to be from the same frame size. Do you now which size it is?
Thanks.
Yes you can mount a front derailleur on the frame. And the max. chainring clearance is 55-42T, quote Wendy.
You can check the first few posts here, the 52cm frame is ready for production after testing (something like that) and the other sizes will come later this year.
And i think the Eurobike one was also a 52cm size.
As long as nobody really have the frame you have to wait to check if there is room for some 40mm tires or you can ask for pictures directly from LC.
-
Hi all, new poster here. Not a new rider, but I never feel as if the geometry specs tell me enough. Perhaps you guys can help me out with geometry and sizing for the LCR018-D endurance geometry frame?
I'm 5'10" (177cm) and have about a 31-inch (probably 78.5 to 79.5cm) inseam. I feel like I may be looking at the size 54 for the LCR018, but am not sure. If it helps, I just stood over, and rode, a 2025 Trek Domane in size 56 and that fit me well. The size 54 Domane was too cramped to ride. I own a size 56 Diverge that is both comfortable and, at the same time, a bit of a stretch where it would have been nice to have a 1cm or 2cm shorter reach. Still, I can go all day on that Diverge, so I can make it work.
Any ideas or suggestions? I realize that I should get a bike fit, but I'm nowhere near a good bike fitter.
Thank you!
-
Hi all, new poster here. Not a new rider, but I never feel as if the geometry specs tell me enough. Perhaps you guys can help me out with geometry and sizing for the LCR018-D endurance geometry frame?
I'm 5'10" (177cm) and have about a 31-inch (probably 78.5 to 79.5cm) inseam. I feel like I may be looking at the size 54 for the LCR018, but am not sure. If it helps, I just stood over, and rode, a 2025 Trek Domane in size 56 and that fit me well. The size 54 Domane was too cramped to ride. I own a size 56 Diverge that is both comfortable and, at the same time, a bit of a stretch where it would have been nice to have a 1cm or 2cm shorter reach. Still, I can go all day on that Diverge, so I can make it work.
Any ideas or suggestions? I realize that I should get a bike fit, but I'm nowhere near a good bike fitter.
Thank you!
If you want to play it safe, I would take the 54cm and have buy multiple stems [their handlebar is super compact (with really short reach)]. The best would be to match the diverge reach, minus 1/2cm either on the stem or on the frame.
-
... [their handlebar is super compact (with really short reach)]...
That's a great point. I wonder if the entire design of the frame and fork are made with that integrated handlebar in mind, and if I should take that into account and perhaps step it up to the size 56 since the integrated stem/handlebar will make it seem shorter.
-
I ordered mine yesterday in carbon raw matte.
I'm 177cm (82cm inseam) and went for size 52, as recommended by Jim Lee/Lightcarbon. Compared the geometry with many other (endurance) bikes and this size should be in line with most of the brands size recommendations. Went for 380/110 handlebars, due to the short reach and the 0 offset seatpost. Currently I ride a Giant TCR (size M; definately less relaxed geometry) and a Yishun R1018 in size 53.
Jim responded to questions without significant delay and was very helpful. If delivery and build process will be as smoth, as the the ordeing process, I would be very satisfied.
I will share some updates, once I received the frameset.
-
Is it just me, or are the paint options somewhat expensive? How much heavier is a nice paint compared to the UD matt finish?
Also would you go for M(540) or L(560)? I'm 182 cm and 87.5 cm inseam. Atm I'm riding my first road bike with the T-T of 555 and stack of 836 mm -> and I feel somewhat stretched out, not being able to ride in aero position for too long.
-
I ordered mine yesterday in carbon raw matte.
I'm 177cm (82cm inseam) and went for size 52, as recommended by Jim Lee/Lightcarbon. Compared the geometry with many other (endurance) bikes and this size should be in line with most of the brands size recommendations. Went for 380/110 handlebars, due to the short reach and the 0 offset seatpost. Currently I ride a Giant TCR (size M; definately less relaxed geometry) and a Yishun R1018 in size 53.
Jim responded to questions without significant delay and was very helpful. If delivery and build process will be as smoth, as the the ordeing process, I would be very satisfied.
I will share some updates, once I received the frameset.
Please do share as I am surprised that the 52 would work for a 177cm tall rider - but I have never been one to fully understand the geometry measurement tables for any bikes and how they would apply to me.
-
I am also surprised: I am 178cm and 83 inseam, and went for 54. The 54 match the stack/reach/top tube of the 54cm from BMC and the S from Endurace from Canyon.
Afterwards I went with a 380/100 stem and will slam my stem
-
Agreed everything is different. But im also 177cm with 82cm inseam. I'm not most flexible, but would choose 54cm with 90/380 or 80/380 handlebars.
-
Is it just me, or are the paint options somewhat expensive? How much heavier is a nice paint compared to the UD matt finish?
Also would you go for M(540) or L(560)? I'm 182 cm and 87.5 cm inseam. Atm I'm riding my first road bike with the T-T of 555 and stack of 836 mm -> and I feel somewhat stretched out, not being able to ride in aero position for too long.
II’m 184cm tall and have an 87.5cm inseam. I wanted to go for the 560 version because I compared the geometry with my current Airwolf YFR 066, which has almost the same geometry in the 540 version. It has a slightly lower stack, but my bike fitter said it’s the perfect size and wouldn’t go any smaller. That makes sense to me.
-
As we’re talking fit, this goes to show how stupid the industry using your hight to judge frame size is.
I’m 178 with 86inside leg and would absolutely go for 52 as a 54 has a higher stack plus the bars are 8mm rise.
Leg- arm- torso measurements are critical, not overall hight.
After multiple fits over 15 years, I’ve never been told a Cervelo 51 - small is too small. I even have the same frame in a 51 and 54 just to compare.
If you’re unsure, get a bike fit. Everyone is different.
-
Please do share as I am surprised that the 52 would work for a 177cm tall rider - but I have never been one to fully understand the geometry measurement tables for any bikes and how they would apply to me.
Indeed I always tend to run the slightly smaller frame, but finding the right geometry is a very personal thing. And yes, I'm quite flexible...
Some background why I have chosen this size, maybe this helps others with the decision.
Actually the LCR-018 size 52 is closer to many other brands 54 size.
For 1,77cm; 83 inseam Giant recommends size M and Canyon recommends size S. I'm on the upper limit of Canyon's specification (1,71-1,78cm) and in the middle of Giants specification (1,71-1,81cm)
Including the geometry of the handlebars, the LCR018 size 52 is close to Giants Defy size M.
LCR018: Reach 75mm; 8mm rise; stem -7°
Giant: Reach 72mm; stem 100mm,-10°
Canyon Endurace: Reach 74 ; Stem 90mm -xx°
The only unknown for me is the influence of the LCR's 0 setback seatpost.
-
Just be cautious of toe overlap if you intend to use all of the tyre clearance.
Obv, crank length and cleat position will effect this, but bigger people on smaller frames can overlook this.
-
I am also surprised: I am 178cm and 83 inseam, and went for 54. The 54 match the stack/reach/top tube of the 54cm from BMC and the S from Endurace from Canyon.
Afterwards I went with a 380/100 stem and will slam my stem
Thank you. Question for you then: If you were to have used the shorter-reach handlebars that come with the frame, would you have fit a 56 well? Or would there have been a problem somewhere else?
-
The latest update is that “theoretically” it will work with XPLR. They’ve modified UDH (so have Factor) so the new standard is already being changed to suit individual company needs. We might as well stick with regular hangars if that’s the case.
From the recent conversation there were two deal breakers. 1. max single ring size of 42 which is way too small for a road bike.
2. They say it “should” and “theoretically” work with XPLR. It’s all a bit too fluffy to commit to buying a Frameset and groupset to try for myself.
Ah well, gorgeous looking frame.
If the max is 55-42 for a 2x setup, shouldnt the max for a 1x be closer to 50-54? Unless you want a super narrow chainline.
-
If the max is 55-42 for a 2x setup, shouldnt the max for a 1x be closer to 50-54? Unless you want a super narrow chainline.
I’d have thought so, but there are only so many times you can go back and ask the same question in different ways.
I’ve just given up trying the find out information.
I was keen to order a frame, but I’ll wait until they release proper information or someone has one in hand and can try it for themselves.
-
The free down tube storage bag is for customers who have ordered before.
if later cost USD$10/pc,
Can you describe how the in-frame storage is secured to the frame? I have a Longteng 301D which I absolutely love but the storage clasp on that frame is terribly designed and has fallen off several times at high speed. It’s enough for me to want to get a new frame. If the storage is well designed and secure, count me in!
-
Just ordered mine yesterday, was quoted end of September. Will probably post a build thread as well!
-
I'm looking to purchase one of these frame however I'm a little unsure on the frame size. I currently have a 56cm frame from around 2017, did have a professional bike fit done and will do the same with this frame.. Looking at a similar bike like the Giant Defy, they recommend a large for theirs which is 54cm but... I am sure it comes out larger than that.. Currently with my bike I don't feel cramped as such but do feel I get some back and shoulder pain but I don't ride a lot so could be my general fitness. Super hard to decide what to do and get it right!
-
If the max is 55-42 for a 2x setup, shouldnt the max for a 1x be closer to 50-54? Unless you want a super narrow chainline.
I am now also a bit concerned that XPLR 10-46 and 1x 48t aero chainring won't work?
I simply like the very simple setup as showed in this video: https://youtu.be/GLp07aFTnWY?si=_uhQCuyl_-Wn9Rcc
-
Did anyone get their frame yet? I was wondering if it can fit 40mm almost-slick tires. It seems like the build on Eurobike had Wolfpack Gravel SuperSpeed TLR 40 tires which seem to be available only in 40mm size. Exactly what I need.
Jim? Also is this frame as strong as gravel ones?
-
Frame looks great - and the pricing is the icing on the cake.
I have a Cervélo Caledonia 5 frameset which I was going to build up - after seeing this frame, I have sold the Caledonia and ordered one of these with custom chameleon paint and still have enough left over to arrange a cycling trip to Majorca next year!
Crazy value for money, and what looks to be a superb all round frameset. Can't wait to get it built up - I'll only ever use it on the road, 30c tyres will be perfect. Roads around me are so rough and bad that it feels like this sort of bike should be the new normal.
-
If bad roads, with that frame, I suggest Peter's 36 wide rims with 32C. This setup with conti gp5000 will NOT slow you down Vs narrower tyres. The moment you go wider, with existing tyres, afaik, there's a penalty.
I’m going to use a set of Go-Zone 30mm (24 inner) wheels, 45mm deep.
I had them built for the Caledonia and have them fitted with 30mm GP5000 and RideNow TPU tubes.
These should be more than capable wheels for rough roads - I’m used to 25s and 28s on a TCR SL and Cervelo S3, so this should be a big upgrade in comfort.
-
The latest update is that “theoretically” it will work with XPLR. They’ve modified UDH (so have Factor) so the new standard is already being changed to suit individual company needs. We might as well stick with regular hangars if that’s the case.
From the recent conversation there were two deal breakers. 1. max single ring size of 42 which is way too small for a road bike.
2. They say it “should” and “theoretically” work with XPLR. It’s all a bit too fluffy to commit to buying a Frameset and groupset to try for myself.
Ah well, gorgeous looking frame.
@POTOOOOOOOO: Got n update from Wendy. To whome have you been talking to?
"Our engineers simulated a single chainring on the LCR018 frame and found that it can be loaded with a maximum of 54T.
Chainline is 45mm
Sram 13 speed cassette on the back require UDH rear hanger , LCR018-D can meet that requirement."
-
@POTOOOOOOOO: Got n update from Wendy. To whome have you been talking to?
"Our engineers simulated a single chainring on the LCR018 frame and found that it can be loaded with a maximum of 54T.
Chainline is 45mm
Sram 13 speed cassette on the back require UDH rear hanger , LCR018-D can meet that requirement."
Carol was my contact.
There is absolutely no consistency in the responses, which is my concern.
I was told a 42t would be the largest, which I know is incorrect. I also know a 54t with a 45mm chain line is unlikely to be possible.
Regarding UDH. They’ve modified the hanger which is ok, but it sounds like they’ve also slimmed down the frame which would necessitate a spacer for the rear mech to attach.
If that’s the case, it would need to be precise as there are no adjustments on the UDH rear mechs. They don’t have High/Low or B.
I’m just not convinced by any of the technical information they’re currently providing.
-
Do you really think that the design of the frame is enough aero for only using it on road ?
-
There are plenty of road bikes with round tubes, the most un-aerodynamic shape. So no reason to not use one as a road bike.
It wont be the most aero thing on wheels, but if it fits the rider well and they can bend their arms, it’ll be more aero that someone sitting upright on a Cervelo S5.
-
Carol was my contact.
There is absolutely no consistency in the responses, which is my concern.
I was told a 42t would be the largest, which I know is incorrect. I also know a 54t with a 45mm chain line is unlikely to be possible.
Regarding UDH. They’ve modified the hanger which is ok, but it sounds like they’ve also slimmed down the frame which would necessitate a spacer for the rear mech to attach.
If that’s the case, it would need to be precise as there are no adjustments on the UDH rear mechs. They don’t have High/Low or B.
I’m just not convinced by any of the technical information they’re currently providing.
If the CL value is greater than 45mm, the chainring can be more than 42T, like CL 47mm, the max chainring can be 54T
-
Great information. Thank you.
I’ve been told 42t is the max, which I know is less than it’s capable of achieving with a good CL.
But I also thought 54t is too big to achieve a good CL. ( depending on the offset of the chainring )
Thanks for clearing that up.
Ultimately it’s an AllRoad frame so some users will want to use X1 drivetrains. The service team should already know and publish this information without multiple emails and guesstimations, I’m sure they’re busy enough already without the same questions being asked.
-
It's our responsibility and honor to answer your questions!
If you have any questions, please contact our sales staff or leave a message on the forum. I'll respond promptly.
-
JimLee,
Can I ask about the seatpost and saddle clamp?
it’s a very distinctive design - I just wonder how sturdy it is.
I ride over rough roads and have had terrible problems from seatposts slipping and saddles that point upwards after hitting a bump due to bad saddle clamp designs.
Looking at your carbon saddle in the seatpost, there also seems to be very little room for adjustment forwards or backwards - can you confirm?
I think the bike looks amazing but these areas are of particular importance and is hard to gauge when the frame is not yet released.
Any information much appreciated.
-
JimLee-can you p[lease show us a bike with 1x13 Sram XPLR on, and the attachment area of the rear derailluer and UDH. That would help those of us looking to buy this frame to run 1x13. Thanks
-
Please note, the frame is not aero gravel, it's aero all-road bike frame LCR018-D, max tire 38C,
if you want bigger tire, change the frame to LCG074-D which max tire 50C,
Geo data of LCR018 and handlebar HBR17 as below link
https://photos.app.goo.gl/35w6cWmEnxtNHBUp8
size 52/54cm will be in Auguest, other size in September, now can book it
EXW price is USD$650, Frame set including frame+ seat post + fork +handlebar + seat clamp+ head set+ front & rear thru-axle,
Color: UD matt, (painting customized is acceptable with extra cost.)
Shipping cost according your address with postcode, we can ship to EU and USA mainland including all duties,
Would you expect a significant difference in comfort with the pivot in the LCG074 with primarily road use?
-
Just placed my order for a size 52 and integrated cockpit.
Excited to have a frame with better fitting geometry compared to the Velobuild 268 I built up last year.
-
Just placed my order for a 54cm frameset with Carol from LightCarbon.
Ordered both seatposts to make sure I get the optimum fit, went for raw carbon finish, lacquered, with silver holographic decals.
Went for the model with in-frame storage, which is a really nice addition.
Really interested in the bar/stem - looks really lovely from the photos - hoping to be able to get a really nice computer mount, but the 3 hole design dissent seem to be that popular so choices look limited. I'll see what the stock mount looks like and go from there.
Cant wait to see how it turns out, I have a set of 45mm Go-Zone carbon wheels, rainbow brass nipples, spam cx-ray spokes, 23 internal, which ill fit 30mm GP5000s to which should give some comfort on the crappy roads.
Groupset is an Ultegra 8170 di2, plus I just managed to get a ceramicspeed t47 bottom bracket off eBay at a good price, so that should really finish the job nicely.
I'll take photos once the frame arrives and maybe to a build thread with photos and comments as I get the build done.
Not sure when the frame will be ready to ship, hoping not too long a wait.
-
Just placed my order for a 54cm frameset with Carol from LightCarbon.
Ordered both seatposts to make sure I get the optimum fit, went for raw carbon finish, lacquered, with silver holographic decals.
Went for the model with in-frame storage, which is a really nice addition.
Really interested in the bar/stem - looks really lovely from the photos - hoping to be able to get a really nice computer mount, but the 3 hole design dissent seem to be that popular so choices look limited. I'll see what the stock mount looks like and go from there.
Cant wait to see how it turns out, I have a set of 45mm Go-Zone carbon wheels, rainbow brass nipples, spam cx-ray spokes, 23 internal, which ill fit 30mm GP5000s to which should give some comfort on the crappy roads.
Groupset is an Ultegra 8170 di2, plus I just managed to get a ceramicspeed t47 bottom bracket off eBay at a good price, so that should really finish the job nicely.
I'll take photos once the frame arrives and maybe to a build thread with photos and comments as I get the build done.
Not sure when the frame will be ready to ship, hoping not too long a wait.
I'm very interested in this, as I'm considering similar options as you did (also 54 frame, same frame finish but with other decal color)!
Can you tell me more about the different seatpost options?
Thanks!
-
I'm very interested in this, as I'm considering similar options as you did (also 54 frame, same frame finish but with other decal color)!
Can you tell me more about the different seatpost options?
Thanks!
The seatpost that comes as standard is a 15mm offset. They also produce an inline, or zero offset seatpost for the bike, which is what I have normally used on my other bikes (Cervelo S3, Giant TCR).
As im not 100% certain on the best fit for me on this endurance frame, I thought it better to order both seatposts now to save on any extra postage costs in the future - plus as the seatpost is proprietary, its always nice to have an extra just in case.
-
The seatpost that comes as standard is a 15mm offset. They also produce an inline, or zero offset seatpost for the bike, which is what I have normally used on my other bikes (Cervelo S3, Giant TCR).
As im not 100% certain on the best fit for me on this endurance frame, I thought it better to order both seatposts now to save on any extra postage costs in the future - plus as the seatpost is proprietary, its always nice to have an extra just in case.
Thanks! In my case I'll go for the inline seatpost option for sure. I use that setup on all my other bikes (road, gravel and MTB), as I prefer to set my ideal position over the bike through stem length and handlebar reach...
BTW, are you in Europe? :)
-
I placed an order for two frames. 56cm (+ 380mm / 90mm cockpit) for me (182,87.5 inseam) and 54 (+ 380mm / 110mm cockpit) for my friend (180, 85 inseam). Raw carbon both, with decals.
How big are you, guys?
-
I placed an order for two frames. 56cm (+ 380mm / 90mm cockpit) for me (182,87.5 inseam) and 54 (+ 380mm / 110mm cockpit) for my friend (180, 85 inseam). Raw carbon both, with decals.
How big are you, guys?
Im 180cm, with bad flexibility and reach, TCR medium with a lot of spacers fits me well, so hoping a 54 frameset will work for me here too - and mean a few less spacers!
-
The seatpost that comes as standard is a 15mm offset. They also produce an inline, or zero offset seatpost for the bike, which is what I have normally used on my other bikes (Cervelo S3, Giant TCR).
As im not 100% certain on the best fit for me on this endurance frame, I thought it better to order both seatposts now to save on any extra postage costs in the future - plus as the seatpost is proprietary, its always nice to have an extra just in case.
I think that it is a 20 mm offset.
Edit : No it is 15 mm offset.
-
Im 180cm, with bad flexibility and reach, TCR medium with a lot of spacers fits me well, so hoping a 54 frameset will work for me here too - and mean a few less spacers!
I also ordered the frame : I am 178 cm - 85 inseam : Size 54 and 360x100 mm.
-
I also ordered the frame : I am 178 cm - 85 inseam : Size 54 and 360x100 mm.
Almost the same as me, just in my case 86 inseam, but my choice for frame and handlebar sizes will be the same, with inline seatpost...
-
I think that it is a 20 mm offset.
Just double checked my invoice and its definitely listed as a 15mm offset
-
Interesting to see your guys inseam and height and that you went for a 54.
I went for a 56 (180/85) based on the geometry of my gravel bike and what I feel comfortable with.
The 54 I rode previously was just too uncomfortable after only short rides
-
Everybody is different. I used as a reference a Giant Propel in size M.
-
Interesting to see your guys inseam and height and that you went for a 54.
I went for a 56 (180/85) based on the geometry of my gravel bike and what I feel comfortable with.
The 54 I rode previously was just too uncomfortable after only short rides
Interesting indeed. It’s why hight is a totally irrelevant measurement for determining frame size.
I’m 178-87 and will be buying a 52 with a 38-110 bar. ( I’m also shit at converting Inches to cm 😂 )
My last three bike fits also confirm this is the best fit for my needs. I could also get a 54 but then the the stack is too high, plus the bars have 8mm of rise.
-
Interesting indeed. It’s why hight is a totally irrelevant measurement for determining frame size.
I’m 185/87 and will be buying a 52 with a 38-110 bar.
My last three bike fits also confirm this is the best fit for my needs. I could also get a 54 but then the the stack is too high, plus the bars have 8mm of rise.
Please show us a picture of you tall guy on a 52 frame
-
178 cm height here. I'm no pro at delving into the geometry charts, but the best I could do to somewhat mimic the proper fit I have on a Specialized Diverge 56 and a Trek Domane 56 did seem to be the LCR018-D size 56. The LCR018 (again, I'm no pro at this, and like many of you I've never seen one in person other than videos) would seem to have just a little lower stack, so I'm guessing a little more aero than the Diverge and Domane. So I'm ordering a 56.
-
Please show us a picture of you tall guy on a 52 frame
As I’ve said, The past three very highly regarded fitters agree with that fit.
I don’t need validation from sone forum guy. But thanks for the offer.
5,10 isn’t tall, it’s very average. I just have long legs ( comparatively), shorter torso and shorter arms 🦖
That’s why using hight is a BS measurement. None of those factors are considered.
-
As I’ve said, The past three very highly regarded fitters agree with that fit.
I don’t need validation from sone forum guy. But thanks for the offer.
5,10 isn’t tall, it’s very average. I just have long legs ( comparatively), shorter torso and shorter arms 🦖
That’s why using hight is a BS measurement. None of those factors are considered.
Agreed. In contrast I’m 170 cm with shorter legs, longer arms, and I ordered a 52 with a 100 reach cockpit. Geometry is very similar to the Carbonda CFR707 I have in a small.
-
178 cm height here. I'm no pro at delving into the geometry charts, but the best I could do to somewhat mimic the proper fit I have on a Specialized Diverge 56 and a Trek Domane 56 did seem to be the LCR018-D size 56. The LCR018 (again, I'm no pro at this, and like many of you I've never seen one in person other than videos) would seem to have just a little lower stack, so I'm guessing a little more aero than the Diverge and Domane. So I'm ordering a 56.
Would you say your fits on the Diverge and Domane are more aero or comfort focused?
-
Would you say your fits on the Diverge and Domane are more aero or comfort focused?
Oh, I'd lean toward comfort focused on both. But then both are basically what I would consider endurance geometries, so isn't that a given?
I have aero bars on the Diverge since I do so many solo rides and gravel rides, and that's my low aero function. But it's also set up to be comfortable. I was in the aero bars for a large majority of the 60 mile ride I did this morning.
-
Agreed. In contrast I’m 170 cm with shorter legs, longer arms, and I ordered a 52 with a 100 reach cockpit. Geometry is very similar to the Carbonda CFR707 I have in a small.
He wrote 185 cm then 178 cm 🤡
-
Has anybody tested it with SRAM XPLR 13-speed 10-46 yet? The last thing I read was that it uses something called 'UDH Mini,' which I had never heard of before.
-
Oh, I'd lean toward comfort focused on both. But then both are basically what I would consider endurance geometries, so isn't that a given?
I have aero bars on the Diverge since I do so many solo rides and gravel rides, and that's my low aero function. But it's also set up to be comfortable. I was in the aero bars for a large majority of the 60 mile ride I did this morning.
Awesome thanks. I go back and forth over going full gravel vs. a road bike with more comfortable geometry and some increased tire size capability, and the LCR018-D really seems to fit the bill.
-
Clarification of some issues regarding the LCR018-D frame set,
1, the seat post have two options: 0mm offset and 15mm offset,
The second option was originally designed with a 20mm offset, but after testing, we found a 15mm offset to be more stable, so that's the final version.
The default offset for the seatpost is 0mm, as the 15mm seatpost is still in production.
2. about the max chainring
a. If use Shimano crankset, max 2x chainring 54-40T, max 1x chainring 42T (smaller ones are all fine).
b. If use Sram crankset, max 2x chainring 56-43T, max 1x chainring 54T (smaller ones are all fine).
if install the chainring Sram 56-43T with CL 45mm, there is a space width 5.8mm to the frame, it's enough,
if 1X 54T, the space is 7.8mm,
check the attached photos.
If you have more questions, please leave a message or contact your sales representative, or contact jim@Lightcarbon.com
-
Has anybody tested it with SRAM XPLR 13-speed 10-46 yet? The last thing I read was that it uses something called 'UDH Mini,' which I had never heard of before.
the mini UDH hanger, It's actually a lightweight version of the UDH hanger. It's smaller and lighter than a regular UDH hanger, but it performs the same function as a regular UDH hanger.
You can install a regular UDH hanger, or remove the UDH hanger and install the T-type.
-
Just a quick update for anyone interested in purchasing - Carol has go back to me to say that I can expect my frameset (54) to be ready around the end of October.
Later than I hoped, but hopefully good things come to those who wait!
-
Do you guys have some email how to contact someone at LightCarbon? This frame looks pretty awesome to me and I send them email to info@lightcarbon.com and it has been nearly two weeks with no response.
-
sorry, I just now seen a few post up, I will try contact Jim at jim@Lightcarbon.com
-
Just a quick update for anyone interested in purchasing - Carol has go back to me to say that I can expect my frameset (54) to be ready around the end of October.
Later than I hoped, but hopefully good things come to those who wait!
Hello, do you have email address to LightCrabon Carol?
-
Hello, do you have email address to LightCrabon Carol?
No problem - you can contact Carol at:
carol@lightcarbon.com
-
No problem - you can contact Carol at:
carol@lightcarbon.com
Thanks, appreciate it
-
just sent a message to the email above, already ordered a new groupset and wheels so might as well go all out and get a new frame as well. i had a couple of questions though what sort of seatpost retention is used i cant see it in any of the photos, also with an electronic groupset how is the battery stored? do you just stuff it in the seatpost?
i have never bought a frame direct what sort of options are available paintwise? somebody mentioned choosing lacquere finish, i really like that white black and gold from when it was on show
-
do you just stuff it in the seatpost?
Leftover bar tape is a good way to fit a battery in a seatpost as the tapered profile allows you easily adjust the diameter by overlapping more or less.
-
just sent a message to the email above, already ordered a new groupset and wheels so might as well go all out and get a new frame as well. i had a couple of questions though what sort of seatpost retention is used i cant see it in any of the photos, also with an electronic groupset how is the battery stored? do you just stuff it in the seatpost?
i have never bought a frame direct what sort of options are available paintwise? somebody mentioned choosing lacquere finish, i really like that white black and gold from when it was on show
They provide the Di2 battery holder for the seatpost.
-
All frame design options and colours available here:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n28
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
The exact colour scheme from Eurobike is available if you ask for it. It does cost extra though.
-
All frame design options and colours available here:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n28
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
The exact colour scheme from Eurobike is available if you ask for it. It does cost extra though.
How much does that deep ocean blue / white option add to the cost of a frame? I like that.
-
I was given a quote of $200 for that specific Eurobike paint job.
A simple chameleon paint job was quoted at only $120.
I ended up choosing raw carbon finish, lacquered with decals.
-
I was given a quote of $200 for that specific Eurobike paint job.
A simple chameleon paint job was quoted at only $120.
I ended up choosing raw carbon finish, lacquered with decals.
Thank you.
-
I had this one on my shortlist, until I saw the triangle thingies on the back, not my cup of tea unfortunately :(
-
I had this one on my shortlist, until I saw the triangle thingies on the back, not my cup of tea unfortunately :(
Doubt it does much of anything, but I guess the aesthetic is a personal preference.
It doesn’t bother me much either way and certainly wasn’t a deciding factor, but everyone is different and there’s nothing wrong with that!
Interested to know what else is on your shortlist, as an aero bike with a real world decent stack is hard to find. I think it is the next big category as it makes so much sense for “normal” riders who don’t have the flexibility of pros.
The only other bikes that come to mind are Peters new XM Carbon frameset (Gran Tourismo) or the Dogma X….which is just ever so slightly out of budget!
-
Does anyone have pics of tire clearance (front & back) with 32c and 35c tire?
-
Does anyone have pics of tire clearance (front & back) with 32c and 35c tire?
Not a photo (I guess we all only have the couple of photos from LC so far), but here is my frame size 52
On this blueprint you can see the fork and seatstay triangles with a 38C tube mounted
-
As someone quite tall (200cm) I felt left out with these frame sizes, but still love this endurance all-road style, especially the combination of aero and 38-40mm tire clearence.
I send an email to LightCarbon asking about bigger frame sizes and got a reply of no plans of bigger frame sizes.
However they also told me: "for size 58cm, the C-T is 560mm."
Am I checking the wrong frame geometry or is it not 560mm but 530mm?
-
Not a photo (I guess we all only have the couple of photos from LC so far), but here is my frame size 52
On this blueprint you can see the fork and seatstay triangles with a 38C tube mounted
I'm about to order one of these framesets, hoping it will let me use a set of Caracal Race 40mm semi-slick tires... :-\
-
As someone quite tall (200cm) I felt left out with these frame sizes, but still love this endurance all-road style, especially the combination of aero and 38-40mm tire clearence.
I send an email to LightCarbon asking about bigger frame sizes and got a reply of no plans of bigger frame sizes.
However they also told me: "for size 58cm, the C-T is 560mm."
Am I checking the wrong frame geometry or is it not 560mm but 530mm?
You are right there is seat tube length 530mm in geo chart for size 58cm.
It would be nice if anyone can confirm this. Iam also nearly 2m tall, but Iam using pretty low seat height so 58cm for me would fit like a glove. It would be nice to have confirmation about if that geometry chart is correct.
-
You are right there is seat tube length 530mm in geo chart for size 58cm.
It would be nice if anyone can confirm this. Iam also nearly 2m tall, but Iam using pretty low seat height so 58cm for me would fit like a glove. It would be nice to have confirmation about if that geometry chart is correct.
This is the correct geometry chart. The low C-T is to be expected for a bike with a sloping top tube. The canyon aeroad in large, with a horizontal TT, has a C-T of 561 while an sl8 in a size 58 only has 515.
-
This is the correct geometry chart. The low C-T is to be expected for a bike with a sloping top tube. The canyon aeroad in large, with a horizontal TT, has a C-T of 561 while an sl8 in a size 58 only has 515.
Thank you. Yes, for me geometry of this frame is pretty much perfect and that 530 seat tube is fine. I just wanted to be sure if it is actually correct chart.
-
I'm about to order one of these framesets, hoping it will let me use a set of Caracal Race 40mm semi-slick tires... :-\
in the eurobike pictures it has 40mm tires doesnt it? i completed my order yesterday and was told itd be ready in october, when it arrives ill try my current wheels that have 42 sworks pathfinders fitted but i dont expect they will fit. ill probably get some gp5000 all seasons or Schwalbe Pro One addix 38, there a limited choice of slicks in 35 or 38 sizing
-
in the eurobike pictures it has 40mm tires doesnt it? i completed my order yesterday and was told itd be ready in october, when it arrives ill try my current wheels that have 42 sworks pathfinders fitted but i dont expect they will fit. ill probably get some gp5000 all seasons or Schwalbe Pro One addix 38, there a limited choice of slicks in 35 or 38 sizing
Yes, the Eurobike showbike had Wolfpack Gravel Superspeed tires, which are labeled as 40c/40mm tires. According to BRR testing, those Wolfpack tires measured 38mm on their 18mm ID control rim, while the ones I want to use (Caracal Race 40C) measured 40mm, on the same rim. On my wheels, the Caracal Race measure a bit above 41mm, maybe 41,5mm (21mm ID rim). Not knowing the ID from the wheels used on the Eurobike showbike, my hope is that the rated 38C tire clearance is a bit conservative... :fingerscrossed:
-
You can see the diagram on the of the previous posts. They show a 38mm width in the plan, and if you blow that up actual size you’ll see there isn’t much clearance.
I want to use 40mm wide rims and I’m questioning if they’ll fit
-
Yes, I already "studied" those diagrams of the rear triangle and I think there's a fair bit of chance I'll be able to fit the Caracal Race 40C, coming from the fact the Eurobike showbike had those Wolfpack tires and there seems to be a bit of clearance left. Keep in mind that I'll be using regular carbon road wheels with 21mm ID...
-
I forgot to state that I'll be using a 1x groupset. I don't know if using a front mech will affect rear tire clearance...
-
Hi everyone,
I’m considering the LightCarbon LCR018-D frameset and I’d like to know if anyone has experience building it with a mechanical drivetrain (e.g. LTWOO R9 or similar).
Is the frame fully compatible with mechanical cable routing?
How difficult is the installation compared to electronic setups (internal routing, bottom bracket area etc.)?
Would you recommend going mechanical on this frame, or is electronic shifting the safer/better option here?
I’d really appreciate any feedback or build experiences – especially from those who’ve actually used LTWOO or other budget-friendly mechanical groupsets on the LCR018-D.
Thanks in advance!
-
Hi everyone,
I’m considering the LightCarbon LCR018-D frameset and I’d like to know if anyone has experience building it with a mechanical drivetrain (e.g. LTWOO R9 or similar).
Is the frame fully compatible with mechanical cable routing?
How difficult is the installation compared to electronic setups (internal routing, bottom bracket area etc.)?
Would you recommend going mechanical on this frame, or is electronic shifting the safer/better option here?
I’d really appreciate any feedback or build experiences – especially from those who’ve actually used LTWOO or other budget-friendly mechanical groupsets on the LCR018-D.
Thanks in advance!
I dont think anyone has actually received a frame yet as it's just going into production.
I ordered mine a few weeks ago and have been told it should be ready sometime in October.
As soon as I have any info or photos of the finished frameset ill let everyone know.
-
I was told that my size 52 frame should be painted by the end of August.
And that it should be shipped in September.
Yesterday, I sent an email to ask if there would be any delays, but I haven't received a reply yet.
-
This frame is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I know its not "aero" but omitting additional mounts for a bento box or racks/fenders on an endurance bike seems like a miss.
-
This frame is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I know its not "aero" but omitting additional mounts for a bento box or racks/fenders on an endurance bike seems like a miss.
You can have a downtube storage.
-
This frame is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I know its not "aero" but omitting additional mounts for a bento box or racks/fenders on an endurance bike seems like a miss.
I agree that fender mounts would be a fabulous addition to this frame.
No bento box, but the inframe storage is certainly a great feature.
-
You can have a downtube storage.
Yeah the downtube storage is great to replace a saddle bag for inner tubs, levers, and tools but i need space for snacks on an endurance bike lol.
-
I saw LightCarbon’s reply on Instagram regarding their new frame:
“Two versions, with or without downtube storage. We showed the ‘eye of the wind’ design at the European Bike Show last year, and another brand bought out the ownership of that frame.”
I’m a bit curious about this.
What exactly do they mean with the “eye of the wind” design? Just a project name for the aero frame they showed?
And if another brand bought the ownership of that frame – does that mean it’s now exclusively sold under a different brand name?
Anyone know which brand might have bought it?
Would be interesting to hear your thoughts.
-
I saw LightCarbon’s reply on Instagram regarding their new frame:
“Two versions, with or without downtube storage. We showed the ‘eye of the wind’ design at the European Bike Show last year, and another brand bought out the ownership of that frame.”
I’m a bit curious about this.
What exactly do they mean with the “eye of the wind” design? Just a project name for the aero frame they showed?
And if another brand bought the ownership of that frame – does that mean it’s now exclusively sold under a different brand name?
Anyone know which brand might have bought it?
Would be interesting to hear your thoughts.
I think that it is the two holes under the seatpost. Seka spear has the same wind eye.
-
I saw LightCarbon’s reply on Instagram regarding their new frame:
“Two versions, with or without downtube storage. We showed the ‘eye of the wind’ design at the European Bike Show last year, and another brand bought out the ownership of that frame.”
I’m a bit curious about this.
What exactly do they mean with the “eye of the wind” design? Just a project name for the aero frame they showed?
And if another brand bought the ownership of that frame – does that mean it’s now exclusively sold under a different brand name?
Anyone know which brand might have bought it?
Would be interesting to hear your thoughts.
Lightcarbon showed a different (but similar) frame last year - this was bought outright (can't remember who, its been mentioned a few times on the forum if you have a search).
The LCR018-D is Light Carbon's newest frame, being sold directly by them.
Eye of the wind refers to the "hole" design at the top of the seat stays. There is also a hole at the top of the seatpost.
-
Lightcarbon showed a different (but similar) frame last year - this was bought outright (can't remember who, its been mentioned a few times on the forum if you have a search).
The LCR018-D is Light Carbon's newest frame, being sold directly by them.
Eye of the wind refers to the "hole" design at the top of the seat stays. There is also a hole at the top of the seatpost.
It was the Mondraker Arid :
https://mondraker.com/fr/fr/gravel-bikes
-
You can have a downtube storage.
the option for no storage wasnt mentioned when i ordered so maybe you have to explictly ask for a frame without it or possibly they got rid of the option to simplify production
-
It was the Mondraker Arid :
https://mondraker.com/fr/fr/gravel-bikes
It is not. The specs of those two bikes are completely different. Unless Mondraker said gives us the wind eye but change everything else.
-
It is not. The specs of those two bikes are completely different. Unless Mondraker said gives us the wind eye but change everything else.
This is the bike shew last year. Because the mold was sold, they have to make a new frame. This is why it is different.
-
got asked about the paint scheme today, do you think they are at the painting stage or do they ask this way in advance?
-
got asked about the paint scheme today, do you think they are at the painting stage or do they ask this way in advance?
It depends of the size. If it is size 54, it is in advance.
I think (but not sure) that size 52 is raw finish ready.
-
It depends of the size. If it is size 54, it is in advance.
I think (but not sure) that size 52 is raw finish ready.
I ordered my 54 a few weeks ago and got that artwork confirmation before I paid.
Haven’t heard anything since, but was told it will be October before it’s ready.
-
I ordered my 54 a few weeks ago and got that artwork confirmation before I paid.
Haven’t heard anything since, but was told it will be October before it’s ready.
I ordered a few weeks ago as well, but recently they changed it to a November delivery.
I was given a quote of $200 for that specific Eurobike paint job.
A simple chameleon paint job was quoted at only $120.
I ended up choosing raw carbon finish, lacquered with decals.
Again, thank you. My Light Carbon rep (they really might all be the same person with different emails, lol) wants to charge me $220 for that paint job.
-
LightCarbon quoted me 235$ for the 3 colour paint job. The design of paint job that I asked for is the same as what they used before on some of the expos (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOVGqTl6hRsC5w9PimpcjQM0-VYk8SR1DWETAdmyyK_qfqBujxb95rRS5tZvHhW5Q/photo/AF1QipMFmtglyVMmhhno7jUJ5X8WvSvlLUoPyN6FvoE?key=eWZ6TzNETlZPZGZQaHVEeEo1a21reEtFRnhBMmFn).
So the total is $1125.47 that inlcude frame with down tube pocket including handlebar $659, T47 BB $15, paint job $235, delivery to UK $168 and paypal fee $48.47.
My frame size (58) will be available in November, plus 2 - 4 weeks for paint job so delivery is probably late december or early January.
Cost is now just 100 £ less than latest elves falath exp (https://uk.elvesbike.com/products/elves-falath-exp-carbon-road-disc-framesets-uci-approved?VariantsId=16687) frame with handlebar. Hm, is this frame worth the wait ?
[edited] forgot to mention that maybe tax man will hit me with 20% VAT bill which will make this frame actually more expensive than elves falath exp that is delivered from UK
-
LightCarbon quoted me 235$ for the 3 colour paint job. The design of paint job that I asked for is the same as what they used before on some of the expos (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOVGqTl6hRsC5w9PimpcjQM0-VYk8SR1DWETAdmyyK_qfqBujxb95rRS5tZvHhW5Q/photo/AF1QipMFmtglyVMmhhno7jUJ5X8WvSvlLUoPyN6FvoE?key=eWZ6TzNETlZPZGZQaHVEeEo1a21reEtFRnhBMmFn).
So the total is $1125.47 that inlcude frame with down tube pocket including handlebar $659, T47 BB $15, paint job $235, delivery to UK $168 and paypal fee $48.47.
My frame size (58) will be available in November, plus 2 - 4 weeks for paint job so delivery is probably late december or early January.
Cost is now just 100 £ less than latest elves falath exp (https://uk.elvesbike.com/products/elves-falath-exp-carbon-road-disc-framesets-uci-approved?VariantsId=16687) frame with handlebar. Hm, is this frame worth the wait ?
[edited] forgot to mention that maybe tax man will hit me with 20% VAT bill which will make this frame actually more expensive than elves falath exp that is delivered from UK
I think big difference is the tire size, 38C vs 32C. I think the Falath is stuck at 32. The fact that you could use this frame for both road rides and some descent gravel makes it worth it.
-
LightCarbon quoted me 235$ for the 3 colour paint job. The design of paint job that I asked for is the same as what they used before on some of the expos (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOVGqTl6hRsC5w9PimpcjQM0-VYk8SR1DWETAdmyyK_qfqBujxb95rRS5tZvHhW5Q/photo/AF1QipMFmtglyVMmhhno7jUJ5X8WvSvlLUoPyN6FvoE?key=eWZ6TzNETlZPZGZQaHVEeEo1a21reEtFRnhBMmFn).
So the total is $1125.47 that inlcude frame with down tube pocket including handlebar $659, T47 BB $15, paint job $235, delivery to UK $168 and paypal fee $48.47.
My frame size (58) will be available in November, plus 2 - 4 weeks for paint job so delivery is probably late december or early January.
Cost is now just 100 £ less than latest elves falath exp (https://uk.elvesbike.com/products/elves-falath-exp-carbon-road-disc-framesets-uci-approved?VariantsId=16687) frame with handlebar. Hm, is this frame worth the wait ?
[edited] forgot to mention that maybe tax man will hit me with 20% VAT bill which will make this frame actually more expensive than elves falath exp that is delivered from UK
The Falath isn’t a like for like comparison - its geometry is more aggressive with a much shorter head tube.
Just to note that I paid $131 for DPD customs paid UK delivery.
-
The Falath isn’t a like for like comparison - its geometry is more aggressive with a much shorter head tube.
Just to note that I paid $131 for DPD customs paid UK delivery.
I think big difference is the tire size, 38C vs 32C. I think the Falath is stuck at 32. The fact that you could use this frame for both road rides and some descent gravel makes it worth it.
Agreed with both statements. I would also add that elves falath exp's awkward seat tube position is forcing shimano di2 batter to be placed inside the down tube through the BB hole instead of the standard position inside a seat post. So any battery maintenance requires BB removal. Not a big concern for sram or wheeltop electric group sets but I have a spare shimano 105 di2 to fit.
-
I placed an order today for a 52 frame in raw carbon finish, got a shipping time estimate in about 45 days. Now the wait begins...
-
Do you know of a similar "allroad" bikes for 50% road and 50% light gravel, UDH hanger and at least 38mm tyres, preferably as horizontal top tube as passible ;D
-
Do you know of a similar "allroad" bikes for 50% road and 50% light gravel, UDH hanger and at least 38mm tyres, preferably as horizontal top tube as passible ;D
Minus a very horizontal top tube, the latest Scott Addict 2026 seems to have entered the chat (notable cause besides direct-China frames, the market was quite empty for such relaxed allroads)
I don't know if there's an error in their geo table but the stack has been raised quite a bit. 38mm tyre clearance and UDH. The MSRP of the entry level model is not "that bad".
-
Do you know of a similar "allroad" bikes for 50% road and 50% light gravel, UDH hanger and at least 38mm tyres, preferably as horizontal top tube as passible ;D
Maybe the carbonda CFR505-SL?
-
I placed an order today for a 52 frame in raw carbon finish, got a shipping time estimate in about 45 days. Now the wait begins...
Did you get a discount for a raw carbon finish?
-
What do you guys think about that downtube storage "hole"? I absolutely love this LightCarbon frame, geometry is perfect for me, tyre clearance is amazing and Iam in process of ordering one.
The only thing that Iam not sure about is that hole in downtube (I love the idea, and dont mind the look), but I think it is pretty big structural peace of frame missing and can be affected in pretty big way. Has it ever been done in some chinese frames, do you have some experience with it, or do you think it will be fine and belive they test it and beaf up carbon around? It is not that I dont belive they test it and adjusted layup arround that, but Iam cautiously careful :).
-
its quite common now the yoeleo G21 has storage on both the top tube and downtube look at reviews of that or the tantan gr201 for how its implented. modern features like that and great tire clearance is why i went with this frame, IMO rather than just a tool bag to go in there they should include some removable clips to hold a di2/erx battery as well
-
Yes, it's becoming very common, especially in the gravel category. I think the new Specialized Diverge even has it in the aluminum version.
-
I am too in the process of thinking about buying one, but one part of me think I should wait for Hambini/Tracevelo quality check (they have not announced it, I just reckon they will based on their enthusiasm). But on the other hand, it seems to me that Lightcarbon in general is known for good quality - eg the other Lightcarbon frame that Mondraker bought rights to. So maybe there really is no gamble associated with buying this frame right away.
Why did those of you, who already bought it, choose to not wait for proper reviews?
-
I am too in the process of thinking about buying one, but one part of me think I should wait for Hambini/Tracevelo quality check (they have not announced it, I just reckon they will based on their enthusiasm). But on the other hand, it seems to me that Lightcarbon in general is known for good quality - eg the other Lightcarbon frame that Mondraker bought rights to. So maybe there really is no gamble associated with buying this frame right away.
Why did those of you, who already bought it, choose to not wait for proper reviews?
1) Because I don't trust all (most of) reviews at all ^^
2) When brands send some frames to some youtubers, they always double check the frame but may not do this for casual customers
3) The frame thick a lot of box
4) I am a scientist so I like to take some risk
5) I have a good dentist ;)
6) LC is well known even if they have some troubles with some frames
7) I plan to make a long review of the frame from the unboxing to the ride.
-
This frame ticks quite a lot of boxes, even for a taller rider imo.
Anyone with around 195cm (6.4) ordering this frame? Did anyone recieved their frame already?
-
Did you get a discount for a raw carbon finish?
No, just base price. With paintjob and/or logos, you'll pay extra according to your choice...
-
1) Because I don't trust all (most of) reviews at all ^^
2) When brands send some frames to some youtubers, they always double check the frame but may not do this for casual customers
3) The frame thick a lot of box
4) I am a scientist so I like to take some risk
5) I have a good dentist ;)
6) LC is well known even if they have some troubles with some frames
7) I plan to make a long review of the frame from the unboxing to the ride.
Same here for 1, 2, 3 and 6... ;D
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
Wow, keep us posted! :o 8)
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
Its very good to hear that they are going into shipping! what color did you have the frame painted?
-
Its very good to hear that they are going into shipping! what color did you have the frame painted?
My order was:
Size: 52 (changed from 50)
Handlebar: 380 width
Stem length: 80
Color choice :
- LCB-01HS Chameleon
- With LIGHTCARBON decal ok for me on Lower Tube, and another Decal from my Website (attachment) on any other place that's visible (like On the top tube, head tube/ if side, then on both sides.)
Color choices from this site: https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
- total US$969
- $650 base price for frameset + $120 color + $35 decals + $164 Chipping to Germany
- Paid via Chinese bank transfer in RMB, so I also could skip the Paypal fee.
- after 2 currency conversions - Bill is $, paid in RMB, RMB is ca. ~830 EUR cost.
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
Congratulations! Frame looks really fantastic - making me even more excited to see how my raw carbon/varnished/holographic decal finish turns out.
They look to have done a great job with the painting, and the overall, the frameset is looking even better than the pics I seen from Eurobike.
Keep us posted!
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
Damn looks great in traditional glossy finish! How tall are you by the way?
-
Damn looks great in traditional glossy finish! How tall are you by the way?
Small 172cm, in the past I had 54 (too large/ free gift bike) 52 (good, rode 15kkm), 50 (10kkm), and Canyon Grail XS / 47/48 or so -very aggressive, and not comfortable for more than 1h
I guess the seatpost will be very low again, but that's a gamble I wanted to take.
I used MyVeloFit and it spit out mostly 51,52 frames from other brands as recommendations.
-
My order was:
Size: 52 (changed from 50)
Handlebar: 380 width
Stem length: 80
Color choice :
- LCB-01HS Chameleon
- With LIGHTCARBON decal ok for me on Lower Tube, and another Decal from my Website (attachment) on any other place that's visible (like On the top tube, head tube/ if side, then on both sides.)
Color choices from this site: https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43
- total US$969
- $650 base price for frameset + $120 color + $35 decals + $164 Chipping to Germany
- Paid via Chinese bank transfer in RMB, so I also could skip the Paypal fee.
- after 2 currency conversions - Bill is $, paid in RMB, RMB is ca. ~830 EUR cost.
Looks great! Has me excited for delivery of my frame sometime in October for glossy finish on raw carbon.
-
Hi everyone,
I’ve been following this thread because this frame really interests me. This year I did the Granfondo Strade Bianche with my Velobuild 268, which worked really well with 30mm GP5000 STR tires.
For next year I want to do the race again, and this bike seems perfect for that kind of competition with mixed and fast terrain. I was thinking of going with gravel tires, since on several dirt climbs the road bike was slipping, and I had to stay seated in order to keep pedaling uphill.
I’ll keep following this thread.
-
Small 172cm, in the past I had 54 (too large/ free gift bike) 52 (good, rode 15kkm), 50 (10kkm), and Canyon Grail XS / 47/48 or so -very aggressive, and not comfortable for more than 1h
I guess the seatpost will be very low again, but that's a gamble I wanted to take.
I used MyVeloFit and it spit out mostly 51,52 frames from other brands as recommendations.
I am the same height as you but I am torn between an 50cm or a 52cm for me. the size "50cm" stack is 538mm which is a tad too low. but I never really have any bikes that have that low of a stack so I don't know how it rides. otherwise, the other geo numbers are perfect for 50cm for me.
-
I am the same height as you but I am torn between an 50cm or a 52cm for me. the size "50cm" stack is 538mm which is a tad too low. but I never really have any bikes that have that low of a stack so I don't know how it rides. otherwise, the other geo numbers are perfect for 50cm for me.
My previous bike, even though a 50 in nominal size, is 17mm lower for the stack., So I expect an improvement for my poor old back and a more relaxed position.
The carbon fork in LC's photo looks extremely long, so using spacers there is still a lot of options for raising the stack.
-
My previous bike, even though a 50 in nominal size, is 17mm lower for the stack., So I expect an improvement for my poor old back and a more relaxed position.
The carbon fork in LC's photo looks extremely long, so using spacers there is still a lot of options for raising the stack.
I might be wrong, but it seems to me that the stack of this bike is higher than usual due to the gravel geometry of the bottom bracket, which is lower than that of a road bike. Notice its BB drop – it’s much larger than normal, making the bottom bracket sit lower (which improves climbing while standing, but feels a bit sluggish for fast sprints).
-
I might be wrong, but it seems to me that the stack of this bike is higher than usual due to the gravel geometry of the bottom bracket, which is lower than that of a road bike. Notice its BB drop – it’s much larger than normal, making the bottom bracket sit lower (which improves climbing while standing, but feels a bit sluggish for fast sprints).
Correct. That is why it is tempting me to go one size smaller. I am typically going for the 52cm but for this one I am tempted to go 50cm. (in general, a 50cm will have too low a stack like 510mm that I wouldn't even think of. But this frame 50cm got 538mm which might be workable if I stack a couple of more spacers at the steerer tube.)
-
Correct. That is why it is tempting me to go one size smaller. I am typically going for the 52cm but for this one I am tempted to go 50cm. (in general, a 50cm will have too low a stack like 510mm that I wouldn't even think of. But this frame 50cm got 538mm which might be workable if I stack a couple of more spacers at the steerer tube.)
If I decide to buy this frame, I should follow what you suggested. I’m 1.74m tall and currently ride a Velobuild 268 in size 52. For this one, I’m thinking of going with a smaller size for two reasons:
because of the frame geometry itself, following the reach
because I’ll have to use as an excuse for this project the fact of replacing my wife’s bike, which is currently a BMC Granfondo GF2 rim brake aluminum in size 51, which is a bit too big for her. She mostly complains about how much the bike vibrates (aluminum combined with narrow tires and imperfect roads).
So my idea would be to build this project and use the bike for some gravel rides and also for the Strade Bianche race here in Italy.
-
I was also on the fence between the 52 or 50 but I'm a bit shorter at 169cm (longer legs and shorter torso). Maybe I should be leaning towards a 50.
-
I was also on the fence between the 52 or 50 but I'm a bit shorter at 169cm (longer legs and shorter torso). Maybe I should be leaning towards a 50.
Anecdotally you're the opposite of me (long arms, short legs), and I went with 52. Lots of geometry comparisons on bike-stats.de between this frame and my Carbonda CFR707 gravel bike.
-
Looking forward to seeing the first few builds as I wait for my frameset.
Any guestimations on what weight you think would be achievable?
I’m not expecting weight weenie figures, but if it could build up around 7.5kg that would be great.
I’m building with a full Ultegra 8170 groupset and a set of 45mm, 1300g wheels.
-
I am 178cm, 83cm inseam and still going with the 52. I might just be able to slam that stem for once xD.
Oh, and I went with a custom color deep ocean red.
-
I am 178cm, 83cm inseam and still going with the 52. I might just be able to slam that stem for once xD.
Oh, and I went with a custom color deep ocean red.
Also 178 cm and 85 inseam but went for the size 54. It is easier to slam the stem.
-
Looking forward to seeing the first few builds as I wait for my frameset.
Any guestimations on what weight you think would be achievable?
I’m not expecting weight weenie figures, but if it could build up around 7.5kg that would be great.
I’m building with a full Ultegra 8170 groupset and a set of 45mm, 1300g wheels.
I expect 7,3kg + 300g pedals - that's with reusing full 2-by Di2 105er and a bulky 33mmX 50mm XMCS wheelset + heavy Schwalbe G-Speed / Tubeless. Not totally sure about each component's weight, and details like oil-in-hoses, frame paint's weight - but should be ballpark.
https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig
-
I expect 7,3kg + 300g pedals - that's with reusing full 2-by Di2 105er and a bulky 33mmX 50mm XMCS wheelset + heavy Schwalbe G-Speed / Tubeless. Not totally sure about each component's weight, and details like oil-in-hoses, frame paint's weight - but should be ballpark.
https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig
If it came in anywhere near 7.3kg I’d be over the moon.
I have some lightweight bits like galfer discs and titanium bolt upgrades for the groupset, so fingers crossed.
-
I'm not going for lightweight on my build, as this bike will be mainly used for flat(ish) gravel/allroad. That said, my target is 8,5kg ready to ride (with pedals, Garmin 1040 mounted, bottle cages, ride essentials in the downtube storage), so anything bellow that figure will be a bonus.
For this build I'll be using some parts I already have laying around (sub 200g saddle, 1500g 50mm carbon wheels, 160/140mm XTR rotors and 40mm Caracal Race tires, if they fit :P), with 1x13 speed transmission (EDS GeX groupset, Rival 13x 10-46 cassete and chain, 42T chainring). Let's see...
-
Looking forward to seeing the first few builds as I wait for my frameset.
Any guestimations on what weight you think would be achievable?
I’m not expecting weight weenie figures, but if it could build up around 7.5kg that would be great.
I’m building with a full Ultegra 8170 groupset and a set of 45mm, 1300g wheels.
has the weight of the fork be published anywhere? i made a spreadsheet to track the cost and weight i got 7.5kg without pedals but that is guessing the frame/fork/bar and seatpost would be 2kg, if thats accurate 7.5 with pedals would be achievable with lighter wheels and tires
-
has the weight of the fork be published anywhere? i made a spreadsheet to track the cost and weight i got 7.5kg without pedals but that is guessing the frame/fork/bar and seatpost would be 2kg, if thats accurate 7.5 with pedals would be achievable with lighter wheels and tires
No figures on the fork Nick, but absolutely loving the spreadsheet! :D
-
has the weight of the fork be published anywhere? i made a spreadsheet to track the cost and weight i got 7.5kg without pedals but that is guessing the frame/fork/bar and seatpost would be 2kg, if thats accurate 7.5 with pedals would be achievable with lighter wheels and tires
No info on the fork model AFAIR
this website says 510g for the gravel one (with the fairings) https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-700c-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-fork-racing-gravel-fork_p244.html and 490g for this "aero" https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-700c-disc-brake-gravel-carbon-fork-aero-gravel-bike-fork_p250.html
So, it should be close to 500g or little less.
-
My frame is ready to be sent!
-
Exciting to see pictures of painted frames ready to be shipped. Keep'em coming!
Haven't officially placed my order yet as I'm still thinking about the paint job. I really love the chronos paint job on the Seka spear and I do see that LC has a pretty similar paint job (more silver forward I guess?). I want to have an outlined "Light Carbon" decal on the down tube but i'm trying to decide between dark grey, gold, or a reflective laser mirror outline.
I think the paint scheme will look better on this frame with the deeper tubes as well.
-
are the painted ones people have been posting all 52 frames?
-
are the painted ones people have been posting all 52 frames?
This is why i changed from 50 -> 52, because I read this post on page 2 or so:
"LCR018-D 58 real frame is expected to be available around October -December 2025.
LCR018-D costs US$625/set (Black matte finish without logos by default.)
Unit price includes Frame +fork +seat post+clamp +headset bearings+headset spacers +thru-axles+ integrated handlebar HBR17
Optional handlebar HBR17 wide 36/38/40/42cm wide, stem length 80/90/100/110/120/130mm
The size 52cm will be the fist production, and then 50, 54, 56, 47 and 58cm
Shipping cost to Belgium for one frame is US$161 by DFS express
(Duty free shipping, you don't need pay taxes & vat when package arrive"
-LC via WhatsApp
I think i posted this earlier aswell but it seems te removed. Or I am going insane during my finals.
-
Just ordered mine, it will be interesting to see how long it takes. 54CM, custom paint, comes with storage, extra hanger, BB, 2-bottle cages. $1073 US to Vancouver Canada.
-
Might be a controversial post, but anyone have experience getting a groupset off Aliexpress, ie Shimano 105 or Ultegra? This is a second bike, not sure what components I am going to go with.
-
I put a 12 spd 105 groupset on my LCR017 from aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006151876993.html
-
I put a 12 spd 105 groupset on my LCR017 from aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006151876993.html
That is exactly the one I was looking at. Operates well?
-
Exciting to see pictures of painted frames ready to be shipped. Keep'em coming!
Haven't officially placed my order yet as I'm still thinking about the paint job. I really love the chronos paint job on the Seka spear and I do see that LC has a pretty similar paint job (more silver forward I guess?). I want to have an outlined "Light Carbon" decal on the down tube but i'm trying to decide between dark grey, gold, or a reflective laser mirror outline.
I think the paint scheme will look better on this frame with the deeper tubes as well.
Thanks for pointing out these photos - I wonder is that logo a customer made special - I think it might look really good full size on the LCR018-D rather than the standard Lightcarbon logo.
I’ll get in touch with Carol and see what the options are, I might try and mock a sample image up tomorrow myself to see how it looks. I was never 100% happy with the standard logo so this may be a slight improvement.
-
That is exactly the one I was looking at. Operates well?
Yeah it works perfectly and as far as I can tell all the parts are genuine. It took about 3 weeks to arrive in the UK.
-
Thanks for pointing out these photos - I wonder is that logo a customer made special - I think it might look really good full size on the LCR018-D rather than the standard Lightcarbon logo.
I’ll get in touch with Carol and see what the options are, I might try and mock a sample image up tomorrow myself to see how it looks. I was never 100% happy with the standard logo so this may be a slight improvement.
I am leaning towards this logo in grey, gold, or lasered mirror finish. I think it looks great and "premium" on this guy's LCR017-D build https://youtu.be/sLVea8yoAxA?si=L5xdTh6FIS0L_pNP
-
Hello,
I am also interested in this frame.
When can we expect the first deliveries? Did anybody recieved the frame already?
Any info if it will be UCI certified?
Which size should I take - I am 1,7 m tall and currently have Giant Defy size S ?
Kind regards
-
Hello,
I am also interested in this frame.
When can we expect the first deliveries? Did anybody recieved the frame already?
Any info if it will be UCI certified?
Which size should I take - I am 1,7 m tall and currently have Giant Defy size S ?
Kind regards
2 feeks (first shipping were made few days ago)
No.
No idea.
Not enough information (inseam,...). Use the Geometry Geek website.
PS : Have you read all the topic ?
-
Just received photos/videos of my 520 size finished painted frame, ready for delivery in about 1-3 days.
They said, it's about 15 days delivery time by airplane to Germany.
Looking forward for the October built! :)
Tell us what max tires actually fit if possible! 38mm stated, would love to be able to put some 40mm in there!!
-
Tell us what max tires actually fit if possible! 38mm stated, would love to be able to put some 40mm in there!!
I believe the eurobike show bike had 40mm gravel tires so depending on the internal width of the wheelset 40mms will definitely fit.
Probably not possible but i would love to have a second gravel set up with the new elite gravel aero+ wheelset and 38-40mm gravel tires. I think it would definitely balloon-up too much though
-
2 feeks (first shipping were made few days ago)
No.
No idea.
Not enough information (inseam,...). Use the Geometry Geek website.
PS : Have you read all the topic ?
I got different information regarding UCI approvement from Carol:
"Yes, for the LCR018-D, we have already prepared the document for UCI approved. I suppose you can see this frame on the UCI approved list around end of this year."
-
Hey fellow 018-D Lurkers!
First of all: big thank you to all of you for sharing all these valuable infos - also great to see LC active on this forum.
I’ve recently ordered a 58cm (lead time end of October) with an own, custom design.
Was in contact with Wendy and overall I’m very pleased with the ordering experience. Due to the kind of complicated design it took a while to dial everything in (and at some point Wendy should have told us earlier that some parts of the planned design is not possible to paint, would have saved a couple of hours of work with the designer) but in the end we‘ve found a good solution.
I am 193cm with a 93cm inseam. I’ve used Bike-stats to match the position of my Dropbar MTB and went for a 110mm Stem.
The bike is going to be a long distance/all road project.
Will use my 45mm Light Bicycle WR45 wheelset (with a SON Delux & Carbon Ti X Hub).
Biggest challenge will be the routing of the dynamo cable to my front light.
Groupset is likely a mix of Force E1, and Garbaruk Stuff. 44T to 52-10
-
Hey together,
I ordered my 52cm Frame end of July and just asked Wendy about the timeframe. The frame is now in line for painting and will ready to send out end of October, unfortunately. :-\
Have also a half custom paint job in pearl white with the blue crystal on parts of the frame.
-
Hey fellow 018-D Lurkers!
First of all: big thank you to all of you for sharing all these valuable infos - also great to see LC active on this forum.
I’ve recently ordered a 58cm (lead time end of October) with an own, custom design.
Was in contact with Wendy and overall I’m very pleased with the ordering experience. Due to the kind of complicated design it took a while to dial everything in (and at some point Wendy should have told us earlier that some parts of the planned design is not possible to paint, would have saved a couple of hours of work with the designer) but in the end we‘ve found a good solution.
I am 193cm with a 93cm inseam. I’ve used Bike-stats to match the position of my Dropbar MTB and went for a 110mm Stem.
The bike is going to be a long distance/all road project.
Will use my 45mm Light Bicycle WR45 wheelset (with a SON Delux & Carbon Ti X Hub).
Biggest challenge will be the routing of the dynamo cable to my front light.
Groupset is likely a mix of Force E1, and Garbaruk Stuff. 44T to 52-10
Hi Paul, I was a lurker up until now as I felt the urge to thank you for this post. I’m also 193 cm and very interested in getting this frame this winter.
Your experience with the frame and its geometry will be extremely useful for me. No pressure ;D
Looking forward to your updates!
-
Thank you for your comment.
I’ll be very happy to share my experience with the frame and of course how it rides for someone with our height.
For comparison, I will get the same position on the Bike as I have on this:
Saddle height something at 820mm
-
Hey fellow 018-D Lurkers!
First of all: big thank you to all of you for sharing all these valuable infos - also great to see LC active on this forum.
I’ve recently ordered a 58cm (lead time end of October) with an own, custom design.
Was in contact with Wendy and overall I’m very pleased with the ordering experience. Due to the kind of complicated design it took a while to dial everything in (and at some point Wendy should have told us earlier that some parts of the planned design is not possible to paint, would have saved a couple of hours of work with the designer) but in the end we‘ve found a good solution.
I am 193cm with a 93cm inseam. I’ve used Bike-stats to match the position of my Dropbar MTB and went for a 110mm Stem.
The bike is going to be a long distance/all road project.
Will use my 45mm Light Bicycle WR45 wheelset (with a SON Delux & Carbon Ti X Hub).
Biggest challenge will be the routing of the dynamo cable to my front light.
Groupset is likely a mix of Force E1, and Garbaruk Stuff. 44T to 52-10
I am 192cm tall and 89cm inseam. I have just ordered the 58cm frame with 15mm offset seatpost and 380/100 integrated handlebar. Estimates that they have just gave me is November plus 2-4 weeks for paint job.
-
Hey together,
I ordered my 52cm Frame end of July and just asked Wendy about the timeframe. The frame is now in line for painting and will ready to send out end of October, unfortunately. :-\
Have also a half custom paint job in pearl white with the blue crystal on parts of the frame.
Your design looks awesome! If you don't mind, please share a picture of your frame after the paint job and your build-up :)"
-
Hey together,
I ordered my 52cm Frame end of July and just asked Wendy about the timeframe. The frame is now in line for painting and will ready to send out end of October, unfortunately. :-\
Have also a half custom paint job in pearl white with the blue crystal on parts of the frame.
Did you choose Pearl White, or did they steer you to it? I ask because I want white-white, and they told me that they couldn't do white-white well and tried to sell me on pearl white (which I dislike a lot).
I also went through a number of blues, and they kept saying they couldn't do them, but instead had choices of the ugliest colors and metallic finishes I've ever seen.
-
I have a cube MTB in pearl white with blue parts. I like this and wanted something similar. But your right, the colour options are not so good, the blue crystal was a the best option to have some blue metallic parts. I search the LCR 017 thread for some pictures of the blue and it doesn't look soooo bad on a frame.
But it was not like Wendy pushed me to take this colour. More like: "this is what we can do, take it or not, sry for the colour options".
-
can you get knockoffs of the seka spear bottlecages on aliexpress?
-
I have a cube MTB in pearl white with blue parts. I like this and wanted something similar. But your right, the colour options are not so good, the blue crystal was a the best option to have some blue metallic parts. I search the LCR 017 thread for some pictures of the blue and it doesn't look soooo bad on a frame.
But it was not like Wendy pushed me to take this colour. More like: "this is what we can do, take it or not, sry for the colour options".
I'm just having a tough time coming to terms with plain white being that tough of a color to get right. It's a standard on so many vehicles and things.
-
Hey fellow 018-D Lurkers!
First of all: big thank you to all of you for sharing all these valuable infos - also great to see LC active on this forum.
I’ve recently ordered a 58cm (lead time end of October) with an own, custom design.
Was in contact with Wendy and overall I’m very pleased with the ordering experience. Due to the kind of complicated design it took a while to dial everything in (and at some point Wendy should have told us earlier that some parts of the planned design is not possible to paint, would have saved a couple of hours of work with the designer) but in the end we‘ve found a good solution.
I am 193cm with a 93cm inseam. I’ve used Bike-stats to match the position of my Dropbar MTB and went for a 110mm Stem.
The bike is going to be a long distance/all road project.
Will use my 45mm Light Bicycle WR45 wheelset (with a SON Delux & Carbon Ti X Hub).
Biggest challenge will be the routing of the dynamo cable to my front light.
Groupset is likely a mix of Force E1, and Garbaruk Stuff. 44T to 52-10
I am 192cm tall and 89cm inseam. I have just ordered the 58cm frame with 15mm offset seatpost and 380/100 integrated handlebar. Estimates that they have just gave me is November plus 2-4 weeks for paint job.
Nice to see more tall people ordering this frame. I am about to order the size 58, I am 194 cm tall with a 925 mm inseam.
According to my measurements I will be able to replicate the same position as my current size 60 frame, moving from a 110 mm stem to the 120 mm handlebars. I currently use 400 mm width handlebars, with short reach, but find them a bit wide (actual 390 mm), so the 380 mm bars should be perfect. Will be ordering the zero offset seat post.
I will pair the frame with a Ultegra Di2 group and XMCarbonSpeed CS-D50CU-36 wheels, with Tufo Thundero 36 mm, hopefully measuring 38 mm actual, for gravel. For road, I will use my current Wheelsfar FS50/30G-700C-Hooked with 28 mm (30 mm WAM) GP5000.
-
Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks to all of you — I’ve learned a lot from the information shared in this thread, and it really helped me make my decision. That’s also why I finally decided to create an account here.
At first, I was aiming for the LCG071-D frame, but since I won’t be running 50-622 tires, I later noticed that the LCR018 can take up to 38 mm, which is more than enough for me. If I ever want to go with 50-622, I’ll just take my MTB instead.
So yesterday I ordered an LCR018-D in size 56. I’m 182 cm tall with a 91 cm inseam — yes, long legs and a short torso, part of the freakshow cabinet. A bike fit suggested a size 56, same as my current Kona Roadhouse.
And a zero offset post and 100 /380 bar
I went for matte black without logos, mainly because I couldn’t find a color I really liked in the LC charts. Not sure yet if I’ll keep it matte black or paint it myself, but I’ve got plenty of time to decide while the frame is being built. Wendy mentioned production will take about 30–45 days. I requested DPD shipping so that all taxes and fees are prepaid.
I also asked for a 51 mm offset fork instead of the 47 mm, hoping it will make the ride feel a bit more stable, since I’m more used to the slacker head angles of MTBs. If it turns out not to be ideal, I can always order a 47 mm fork later on.
As for components: I already have a set of SRAM Force D1 AXS shifters, so those will go on the bars. For wheels I’ll be using a NOVATEC R4 DISC CL-PRO-XDR-Gen5 set. Still undecided between a 1x or 2x drivetrain — top speed isn’t really a priority, and there’s not much climbing here in the Netherlands. I guess it depends on what good deals come along.
To be continued!
-
I touched base with Wendy and received the quotation for the LCR018-D frame. She replied very quickly and in a very professional way, so I was really pleased with this first exchange.
She also proposed a carbon saddle for US$49 (151 g) and bottle cages BC205 for US$15 each (21 g). Does anybody know these products? For the weight and the price they don’t look bad to me.
-
Does someone know if the mini UDH will be compatible with generic UDH to Shimano direct mount hangers? The pictures of the black bike built up with Shimano from LC show it with the b link.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOVGqTl6hRsC5w9PimpcjQM0-VYk8SR1DWETAdmyyK_qfqBujxb95rRS5tZvHhW5Q?key=eWZ6TzNETlZPZGZQaHVEeEo1a21reEtFRnhBMmFn (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOVGqTl6hRsC5w9PimpcjQM0-VYk8SR1DWETAdmyyK_qfqBujxb95rRS5tZvHhW5Q?key=eWZ6TzNETlZPZGZQaHVEeEo1a21reEtFRnhBMmFn)BIKE
-
I touched base with Wendy and received the quotation for the LCR018-D frame. She replied very quickly and in a very professional way, so I was really pleased with this first exchange.
She also proposed a carbon saddle for US$49 (151 g) and bottle cages BC205 for US$15 each (21 g). Does anybody know these products? For the weight and the price they don’t look bad to me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ThLsxjH2/Whats-App-Image-2025-09-19-10-11-10-14e88945.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ThLsxjH2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCpFSWGH/Whats-App-Image-2025-09-19-10-11-26-1188759b.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCpFSWGH)
I can't give you any feedback because I haven't tested it yet, sorry...
You can go for the bottle holders without any worries!
-
Hi friends, I registered here specifically for this frame. I love the design and hope the first frames delivered will clear up any questions.
I saw that 38c is the French size, which according to etro corresponds to 40x622, so normal 40mm tires should fit.
I'm still worried about the SRAM Udh and the maximum chainring at the front, because I'd like to use at least a 46. 50 would be even better.
And what size would you recommend if I'm 1.68m tall with a 78cm inside leg and ride a Canyon Aeroad in size XS, which fits perfectly.
thanks and best regards ☺️
-
Quote from Wendy "The biggest chainring for a 1x group set: if the CL value is greater than 45mm, the chainring can be more than 42T, like CL 47mm, the max chainring can be 54T"
-
Looking at the size chart you will need a size 50 frame. A 40 mm tire on a 20-25 mm width rim should fit, but without frames delivered for people to test i would not bank on anything wider than that.
-
And what size would you recommend if I'm 1.68m tall with a 78cm inside leg and ride a Canyon Aeroad in size XS, which fits perfectly.
I am 169cm and leaning towards the 50cm frame for the LCR018.
What I did was take the current stack of my bike + the spacers. Then took the reach + length of the stem + bar reach to get a rough idea of what I currently. Current reach of 536mm and stack of 553mm. Compared to the LCR018 with what I wanted for my next bike, slightly longer and higher. That means the 50 frame, 100mm stem, 20mm spacer and the HBR17 bars will get me there. May not be perfect, but I think it is a good way to get an idea of what size you will want. Keep in mind the HBR17 have an 8mm rise, so I think that would act like an 8mm spacer (someone correct me, if i am wrong).
That being said, I have a pre-purchase bike fit coming up next month to help me confirm everything before I order. To be on the safe side.
-
I am 169cm and leaning towards the 50cm frame for the LCR018.
What I did was take the current stack of my bike + the spacers. Then took the reach + length of the stem + bar reach to get a rough idea of what I currently. Current reach of 536mm and stack of 553mm. Compared to the LCR018 with what I wanted for my next bike, slightly longer and higher. That means the 50 frame, 100mm stem, 20mm spacer and the HBR17 bars will get me there. May not be perfect, but I think it is a good way to get an idea of what size you will want. Keep in mind the HBR17 have an 8mm rise, so I think that would act like an 8mm spacer (someone correct me, if i am wrong).
That being said, I have a pre-purchase bike fit coming up next month to help me confirm everything before I order. To be on the safe side.
Not exactly because the lift of the handlebar is verticale (90°) whereas the spacer is the head tube angle (72°).
-
Just received mine today! AMA ! xD
Super excited for the first build.
(https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J (https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
-
Just received mine today! AMA ! xD
Super excited for the first build.
(https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J (https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
Excellent! Congratulations and thanks for the photo.
Look forward to more updates.
Is that raw carbon finish or is it painted black?
-
Just received mine today! AMA ! xD
Super excited for the first build.
(https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J (https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
Please :D : Weight each part and more pictures of outside / inside. Could you take a picture from the front to have an idea of the surface in contact with the front wind ?
Thanks a lot :).
-
Excellent! Congratulations and thanks for the photo.
Look forward to more updates.
Is that raw carbon finish or is it painted black?
It's the base UD matte finish (no additional cost).
-
Just received mine today! AMA ! xD
Super excited for the first build.
(https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J (https://postimg.cc/sQYphv7J)
Congrats! First impressions and more pics pls!
-
990g is the weight of the frame w/o the metal storage cover.
frame seems very sturdy on the frontal area, more than the BB area (but i'm by no means a carbon expert)
fork seems also robust.
love the handlebars design, construction seems ok.
saddle looks comfy, very well finished. can't wait to take it for a ride.
-
some more pics
-
another round
-
last
-
Thanks Jantunes for photos :), looks pretty awesome, everything looks pretty clean and finished, that is what I like to see :).
Good luck with new bike, I have one in simple UDmatt coming too, looking forward to it.
-
thank you. regarding the finishes, seems pretty flush. it appears they faced the contact areas. the photo where we see internally the "eagle eye", it's the one area that seems not so clean. any reason to worry about it?
-
personally I think it looks good, so no worry. Maybe it does not look pretty, but it looks properly compacted with no wrinkles and that is the important bit :).
-
good to hear. i am planning on building it sramano style. shifters/derailleurs from sram and cassette/chain/cranks from shimano. Someone is raising concerns here of using a big chainring. is it a problem with the position of the front derailleur hanger ? is a 52/36 at the front unrealistic?
-
thanks @Jantunes for the photos! Keep us updated on the build!
How is the storage compartment lid? Is it secure and easy to latch and unlatch?
-
Any idea what kind of 16 tooth bb tool is needed for the bb they supply ? I guess is a 49-16 or 52-16.
-
Any idea what kind of 16 tooth bb tool is needed for the bb they supply ? I guess is a 49-16 or 52-16.
They told me 49-16. Could you measure the width of the BB please to confirm that ?
-
Which tightening torque will you apply for the rail saddle with this type of'clamp ? For a carbon rail saddle.
-
From the picture, I can’t quite understand where the hose hole is located on the steerer.
It looks like it’s on the side which could be awkward (depending what side you have your shifters)
-
From the picture, I can’t quite understand where the hose hole is located on the steerer.
It looks like it’s on the side which could be awkward (depending what side you have your shifters)
It seems on the left side (thanks to picture with the fork on the balance. The serial number is in front of the fork). Perfect for left front brake.
-
It seems on the left side (thanks to picture with the fork on the balance. The serial number is in front of the fork). Perfect for left front brake.
That’s what I thought. A pain for right / front users.
Centre routing would have been the most useful solution
-
That’s what I thought. A pain for right / front users.
Centre routing would have been the most useful solution
You can put a tape 5 cm on top of the hole in order to set the hose on the right.
But yes, it is easier for the left (90% of bike ?).
-
You can put a tape 5 cm on top of the hole in order to set the hose on the right.
But yes, it is easier for the left (90% of bike ?).
I’d usually tape a fork anyway, just a bit strange In my opinion to not go for more central hole.
Not a deal breaker.
I think I probably build 50%-50% right/ front vs right rear for my clients. Personal choice, but Europe and the US tend to bias right rear.
Uk is usually right front and Ireland is about 50/50.
-
You can put a tape 5 cm on top of the hole in order to set the hose on the right.
But yes, it is easier for the left (90% of bike ?).
you mean tape the hose to the steerer once its where you want it? is that necessary?
its definately a bit annoying when some of their other forks have it in the centre, i understand most bikes are set up that way though.
-
I’d usually tape a fork anyway, just a bit strange In my opinion to not go for more central hole.
Not a deal breaker.
I think I probably build 50%-50% right/ front vs right rear for my clients. Personal choice, but Europe and the US tend to bias right rear.
Uk is usually right front and Ireland is about 50/50.
in the UK its a legal requirement to be right/front https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/198/regulation/4
-
you mean tape the hose to the steerer once its where you want it? is that necessary?
its definately a bit annoying when some of their other forks have it in the centre, i understand most bikes are set up that way though.
Yes. Not necessary but it will helps the rooting through the handlebar and IIRC, the SL8 and Propel manual tell to do this.
-
in the UK its a legal requirement to be right/front https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/198/regulation/4
Now I understand why UK left Europe 😜.
-
That’s what I thought. A pain for right / front users.
Centre routing would have been the most useful solution
It's the same way round on the LCR017 and I'd seen it mentioned as a problem, but I just crossed the brake lines over in the stem without any bother.
-
thanks @Jantunes for the photos! Keep us updated on the build!
How is the storage compartment lid? Is it secure and easy to latch and unlatch?
heavy! ahah. yes it's easy and it fits in pretty snug.
-
Anyone know when they are going to add the frame details officially up on the website? Surprised with frames starting to land that it hasn't been listed with a similar write-up as the LCR-017D showing the frame details, cable routing schematics, BB details, etc.
-
Anyone know when they are going to add the frame details officially up on the website? Surprised with frames starting to land that it hasn't been listed with a similar write-up as the LCR-017D showing the frame details, cable routing schematics, BB details, etc.
Yup! I'm also surprised that they haven't put the 018D on their website along with the other bike frames. Right now it seems more like a pre-order in secrecy kinda phase.
-
It's the base UD matte finish (no additional cost).
It is very nice!! I am figuring out which color I will go for, UD matte finish is one option, I was wondering if you are planning to put some decals or your frame or you keep it plain as it is. I am looking for some idea (like decals) to make it less plain.
-
It is very nice!! I am figuring out which color I will go for, UD matte finish is one option, I was wondering if you are planning to put some decals or your frame or you keep it plain as it is. I am looking for some idea (like decals) to make it less plain.
I think black and bit of white decals on bike goes a long way, maybe boring, but in my eyes you cant go wrong with black and white.
This is my current Hong-fu UDmatt bike and Iam planing to build Light carbon basically the same way and color scheme :)
-
heavy! ahah. yes it's easy and it fits in pretty snug.
If you have any existing wheels and tyres, would you be able to see what the absolute maximum is please.
In interested in seeing if 42mm wide wheels will fit.
Many thanks
-
It is very nice!! I am figuring out which color I will go for, UD matte finish is one option, I was wondering if you are planning to put some decals or your frame or you keep it plain as it is. I am looking for some idea (like decals) to make it less plain.
I have ordered UD mate too and with decal colour "PANTONE 332C"/"Celeste Blue" so that it matches the same decal colour on ryet 3d printed saddle. Decal design on frame is very minimalistic with only lightcarbon logo on the front and rear. Lightcarbon wording is only presented on handlebar and on fork but not on down tube.
(http://decal.png)
-
How much more do the decals cost?
-
If you want only a small decal i think they include it in the price of the paintjob
-
How much more do the decals cost?
Wendy quoted me 35 per Color. I’ve added 2 big decals on the downtube, smaller on the top, head and forks in 2 colors for a total of 70
-
How much more do the decals cost?
I have paid 135$ for UD black made and a small single colour decal .
Strange that different sales reps are giving us a different quotes for paint jobs.
-
I paid $856 for UD matte (standard color) and no decals, in size 58cm. Including one extra hanger, Shimano BB, and shipping to northern Europe.
-
Lightcarbon sells Shimano parts as well? 😮
Seeing as you (too) live in Northern Europe, I look forward to hearing about how high the tax/customs fee will be. Also interested in which value of the goods LC indicate on the package.
-
Lightcarbon sells Shimano parts as well? 😮
Seeing as you (too) live in Northern Europe, I look forward to hearing about how high the tax/customs fee will be. Also interested in which value of the goods LC indicate on the package.
No, to be clear, they sell a bottom bracket that is compatible with Shimano. Not Shimano branded.
I assume there will be no taxes, as the shipping is duty free. I have previously bought wheels from China with such shipping and there was no added taxes or custom fees (to Sweden).
-
Hi there, I'm from Germany and I ordered a 018 frame, size 56cm, with a 380x100 handlebar set. I'm 1.84m, and according to bike stats, it should be a good fit for me. The color of the Seka Spear inspired me, so I opted for the Chronos paint job without any decals. I also got a 68 wheelset with 50mm rims. I'm very happy and excited!
-
Hi there, I'm from Germany and I ordered a 018 frame, size 56cm, with a 380x100 handlebar set. I'm 1.84m, and according to bike stats, it should be a good fit for me. The color of the Seka Spear inspired me, so I opted for the Chronos paint job without any decals. I also got a 68 wheelset with 50mm rims. I'm very happy and excited!
Oh I love that Seka paintjob, youll have to post your pictures from your frame! I would love to see how close LC gets to seka
-
Hi there, I'm from Germany and I ordered a 018 frame, size 56cm, with a 380x100 handlebar set. I'm 1.84m, and according to bike stats, it should be a good fit for me. The color of the Seka Spear inspired me, so I opted for the Chronos paint job without any decals. I also got a 68 wheelset with 50mm rims. I'm very happy and excited!
Is that using their silver chrome finish on their webpage or did they confirm they're able to do the more grey-ish (darker) chrome similar to Seka? This is what I am planning on as well but they said only their silver chrome is available.
-
Is that using their silver chrome finish on their webpage or did they confirm they're able to do the more grey-ish (darker) chrome similar to Seka? This is what I am planning on as well but they said only their silver chrome is available.
Wendy wrote that it's the chrome silver. I personally would like it. It's very difficult to judge because the pictures from LightCarbon are unfortunately quite poor. Seka can do this much better, and it makes it easier to decide on the paint color. If you compare this picture, the silver of the Spear is significantly brighter than the LC.
-
Wendy wrote that it's the chrome silver. I personally would like it. It's very difficult to judge because the pictures from LightCarbon are unfortunately quite poor. Seka can do this much better, and it makes it easier to decide on the paint color. If you compare this picture, the silver of the Spear is significantly brighter than the LC.
Yeah I'm ok with the chrome silver as well, just wanted to confirm if you had the same feedback from LC. I still haven't officially ordered yet, still deciding what i want to do with the decals. I'm also playing with the idea of moving the silver chrome finish on the seat stays up to highlight the "eagle eye". Super excited to see how yours turns out! Whats the lead time?
-
The big question I have before buying is compatibility of front derailleur and 38-40mm WAM tyres. I know for example that BMC Roadmachine has 40mm tyre clearance, 415mm chainstays but there is no room for 40mm tyres if you run the front derailleur, it rubs. I hope that is not the case here.
-
The big question I have before buying is compatibility of front derailleur and 38-40mm WAM tyres. I know for example that BMC Roadmachine has 40mm tyre clearance, 415mm chainstays but there is no room for 40mm tyres if you run the front derailleur, it rubs. I hope that is not the case here.
I think it's not possible. If you're looking for a gravel frame...there are other options.
-
Yeah I'm ok with the chrome silver as well, just wanted to confirm if you had the same feedback from LC. I still haven't officially ordered yet, still deciding what i want to do with the decals. I'm also playing with the idea of moving the silver chrome finish on the seat stays up to highlight the "eagle eye". Super excited to see how yours turns out! Whats the lead time?
Decals are not easy...my plan is a nordic symbol called VEGVISIR. I love it...
Nice idea with the silver wind eye, but I think it's not so easy to get a cut to black on the seat tube.
Wendy said it's 30 working days for the frame and paintjob + 20 working days for shipping. So it's november.
-
I paid $856 for UD matte (standard color) and no decals, in size 58cm. Including one extra hanger, Shimano BB, and shipping to northern Europe.
I paid $815 for the UD matte, no decals, Storage bag, DPD shipping and all duties prepaid and including paypal fee.. Got my hands on a Force AXS APLR 44T D1 rear derailleur and 170mm 40T Force AXS D1 crank set. So I now have most of the drivetrain from the same group set. I will probably change the chainring for a Garbaruk chainring. with a variable 5/7 offset so that I can, hopefully, go 44-tooth with a dub road crankset.
I like the SEKA paint jobs as well. there are some nice designs on the Spear. But I also like some custom paint jobs using sponges and 3 or 4 colors. Well, time enough to decide before my frame arrives.
-
Also planning the Garbaruk Aero 1x 44T with a Force E1 Crankset.
BTW: im using the Garbaruk cage on my Rival XPLR and it works flawlessly with the 10-52 eagle :)
-
Has anyone tried it out yet to see if the SRAM UDH rear derailleur actually fits, how big the chainring can be on a 1x front derailleur, and how much tire clearance there actually is?
-
i ordered a frame in 54 with the Eurobike paint job. will set it up as a 1by. fitting an XPLR and testing UDH compatibility will be one of the tasks.
but not before November I guess, since production time is at 45 days
i let you know if and how the UDH fit is
-
Hey all,
first time buying a frame and keen for some input on sizing. I like the look and flexibility of this bike.
I'm 193cm with 89cm in-seam - I currently ride an XL Merida Scultura 904, which is the bike that got me into road cycling. Only relevant sizing chart I could find is: https://99spokes.com/en-AU/bikes/merida/2014/scultura-cf-904
From what I can see - the LC frame is slightly smaller than the Merida, but not by much. I felt stretched out on the Merida and had to reduce stem length to 70mm.
Would really appreciate a sanity check on a size 58cm frame for me.
-
Hey all,
first time buying a frame and keen for some input on sizing. I like the look and flexibility of this bike.
I'm 193cm with 89cm in-seam - I currently ride an XL Merida Scultura 904, which is the bike that got me into road cycling. Only relevant sizing chart I could find is: https://99spokes.com/en-AU/bikes/merida/2014/scultura-cf-904
From what I can see - the LC frame is slightly smaller than the Merida, but not by much. I felt stretched out on the Merida and had to reduce stem length to 70mm.
Would really appreciate a sanity check on a size 58cm frame for me.
I'm 190cm with an inseam of 90. I'm planning on getting the frame in size 58 as well. Always rode 58 sized bikes no problem
-
Same for me:
58 Frame, 110 Stem, 0 Offset Seatpost.
I’m 193, 92smth inseam (820 seat height).
-
Same here.
58 frame ordered, 380x120 handlebars, 0 offset seatpost.
194 cm, 92.5 inseam.
-
Hi all,
Woke up this morning to some great news - Carol has emailed to say my 54 frameset is on the way.
A slight hiccup in that she said DPD customs paid is not available to N.Ireland, so she has suggested UPS with a low declared value.
I dont really have much option other than to agree, so fingers crossed all goes ok.
She sent me one quick photo to show everything - all looks really good (I wish they took high quality photos of the frame finish!), but overall I can't wait to get it here and get building.
I'll take some high quality photos when it arrives and ive also just got a little endoscope, so will be able to take some internal shots to check everything out.
(https://i.ibb.co/57gy6SD/lcr018-d-first-photo.jpg)
-
Looking forward to your thoughts when it arrives.
-
Hi all,
Woke up this morning to some great news - Carol has emailed to say my 54 frameset is on the way.
A slight hiccup in that she said DPD customs paid is not available to N.Ireland, so she has suggested UPS with a low declared value.
I dont really have much option other than to agree, so fingers crossed all goes ok.
She sent me one quick photo to show everything - all looks really good (I wish they took high quality photos of the frame finish!), but overall I can't wait to get it here and get building.
I'll take some high quality photos when it arrives and ive also just got a little endoscope, so will be able to take some internal shots to check everything out.
(https://i.ibb.co/57gy6SD/lcr018-d-first-photo.jpg)
Did you request extra headset spacers?
-
Did you request extra headset spacers?
Yes, I ordered both seatpost variations, extra storage cover, extra derailleur hanger plus extra headset spacers just in case I should ever need them as I imagine they are frame and handlebar specific.
Tried to cover all angles so I won't need to order anything in the future. I was on the verge of ordering an extra fork but that was one step too far! :-)
-
Yes, I ordered both seatpost variations, extra storage cover, extra derailleur hanger plus extra headset spacers just in case I should ever need them as I imagine they are frame and handlebar specific.
Tried to cover all angles so I won't need to order anything in the future. I was on the verge of ordering an extra fork but that was one step too far! :-)
Yes, great move, like 3D chess... ;D
BTW, does anyone know how many centimetres (cm) of headset spacers are included by default?
-
Yes, great move, like 3D chess... ;D
BTW, does anyone know how many centimetres (cm) of headset spacers are included by default?
Info from Wendy was: 2x 5mm; 2x 10mm
-
Info from Wendy was: 2x 5mm; 2x 10mm
Yes, that matches some pictures I've seen of frames ready to ship or already received.
From my calculations, I estimate that the headset bearing cover should be around 10mm in height. Considering the HB17 stem stack of 36.8mm, I think I'll need 20mm of spacers for my desired handlebar height (also considering its 8mm rise on the hoods), and according to your info, I'll still have an extra 10mm (2x5mm) of spacers to play around if needed...
-
Size 54 is also on its way.
I will build it with Shimano Ultegra Di2 and Tagoola wheels.
Edit : I already have all the components so I will be able to build it very quickly.
Edit 2 : I will be able to compare it with a Giant Propel, TCR, Speeder SC-R55D and a replica SL8.
-
Hi all,
Woke up this morning to some great news - Carol has emailed to say my 54 frameset is on the way.
A slight hiccup in that she said DPD customs paid is not available to N.Ireland, so she has suggested UPS with a low declared value.
I dont really have much option other than to agree, so fingers crossed all goes ok.
She sent me one quick photo to show everything - all looks really good (I wish they took high quality photos of the frame finish!), but overall I can't wait to get it here and get building.
I'll take some high quality photos when it arrives and ive also just got a little endoscope, so will be able to take some internal shots to check everything out.
(https://i.ibb.co/57gy6SD/lcr018-d-first-photo.jpg)
It looks really nice!! the decal lightcarbon is laser silver color? did you pay for it or it was included?
-
Yes it’s the laser silver decal colour choice.
Can’t wait to see how everything looks as I don’t think the low quality photo is doing it justice!
Looking at my invoice, there was a $70 charge for the raw carbon + gloss lacquer finish including the decals.
-
Yes it’s the laser silver decal colour choice.
Can’t wait to see how everything looks as I don’t think the low quality photo is doing it justice!
Looking at my invoice, there was a $70 charge for the raw carbon + gloss lacquer finish including the decals.
The raw carbon+gloss lacquer finish had no extra cost in my case, so I'd say your extra charge was only for the decals...
-
The raw carbon+gloss lacquer finish had no extra cost in my case, so I'd say your extra charge was only for the decals...
Yeah, I think Carol mentioned the laser decals were expensive, but to be honest, the whole package is such ridiculous value, I don’t mind.
I think im sorted for everything for the build - what does everyone think about the steerer bung?
Happy enough with stock, or any recommendations for a little upgrade?
There’s very little else to change out on the bike (I have Ultegra 8170 groupset waiting to go and a 45mm Go-zone wheelset) so might as well make everything as good as possible. May be absolutely fine and no point overthinking it, but easy to check now before the build starts.
-
I was charged $80 for laser decal + raw matte carbon.
Anyways i'm 181 cm, inseam 87.5cm. Long lengs, short torso. Got the size 56 with 380 mm * 90 mm cockpit.
-
I wonder how glossy black decals would look on the raw matte finish.
-
another round
Just a question, is the UDH thingy just a light version of the default SRAM UDH?
I just found this "LightCarbon UDH" on AliX: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009882315902.html
for my understanding it looks like a default one, but with more removed material to be lighter.
Would be a default UDH also fit on the frame?
-
Just a question, is the UDH thingy just a light version of the default SRAM UDH?
I just found this "LightCarbon UDH" on AliX: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009882315902.html
for my understanding it looks like a default one, but with more removed material to be lighter.
Would be a default UDH also fit on the frame?
From my understanding, yes and yes...
-
Interesting - I'd like to run a direct mount RD hanger if possible as thats what ive always done with my Shimano setups.
I thought the "mini UDH" was proprietary to the frame - am I mistaken?
If I am wrong, does that mean something like this would fit? (would be great if it did)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008828610548.html?spm=a2g0o.tesla.0.0.526aMInHMInH5n&afTraceInfo=1005008828610548__pc__c_ppc_item_bridge_pc_main__C7wEeAN__1759310960593
-
Interesting - I'd like to run a direct mount RD hanger if possible as thats what ive always done with my Shimano setups.
I thought the "mini UDH" was proprietary to the frame - am I mistaken?
If I am wrong, does that mean something like this would fit? (would be great if it did)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008828610548.html?spm=a2g0o.tesla.0.0.526aMInHMInH5n&afTraceInfo=1005008828610548__pc__c_ppc_item_bridge_pc_main__C7wEeAN__1759310960593
I guess it should work. Being UDH compatible, it should/must comply with the respective standard, as the LC "light" version...
-
Sorry, just checked back and see on Page 9 JimLee confirmed that you can install a standard UDH hanger.
Think ill go for a direct mount version.
-
Sorry, just checked back and see on Page 9 JimLee confirmed that you can install a standard UDH hanger.
Think ill go for a direct mount version.
Would be also my option for Shimano ones.
I will get a "blue" default one and say no thank you for the ~15grams weight saving ;D
-
That's the logic behind the standards. If they state it as UDH, it must comply with the UDH standard or it's not UDH. In this case, our "confusion" relates to their "light" version of UDH, which must be only a lighter version of a regular UDH hanger...
-
Any brand can do what they like to save weight from the hanger, it’s the hole in the frame that’s important for a UDH rear mech to work correctly.
So long as that hole is to SRAM specs, it’s UDH.
-
Has the thread pitch been mentioned?
Can't seem to find it, but have it in my head that its M12x1.0 - I think Light Carbon are now on holidays so probably unable to get direct confirmation for a few days.
-
Has the thread pitch been mentioned?
Can't seem to find it, but have it in my head that its M12x1.0 - I think Light Carbon are now on holidays so probably unable to get direct confirmation for a few days.
It's 173mm with M12*P1.0*L16
-
Happy today!
Just received my package from DHL!
Timeline shipping to Germany.
- Sept. 15 - Wendy sent me the pictures/videos of the painting, ask finalizing detail
- Sept. 18 - received shipping notice + tracking number from Wendy
- Number can be used on DHL tracker too - but no change of status until this Tuesday.
- Oct. 1st - received DHL update notice, delivery for tomorrow (now)
so about 2 weeks shipping time!
Weights, guys:
- headset: 172g spacers and stuff
- battery seat-post holder, wedges for seat post: 43g
- device mount + gopro under mount: 40g
- uncut fork (no axle): 430g
- both axels: 64g
- painted frame in size 52, no door: 1004g
- handlebar 380x80: 303g
- door: forget to weight in, about 30g or so.
I will probably make a short video tonight, build up maybe start on week-end/next week
-
Congratulations on the new arrival! :)
I'm expecting a shipping notification any day now, so at least a couple of weeks behind you, so really look forward to any videos and build updates you have pointing out anything that may be good to know.
Frame looks really great by the way.
-
Happy today!
Just received my package from DHL!
Timeline shipping to Germany.
- Sept. 15 - Wendy sent me the pictures/videos of the painting, ask finalizing detail
- Sept. 18 - received shipping notice + tracking number from Wendy
- Number can be used on DHL tracker too - but no change of status until this Tuesday.
- Oct. 1st - received DHL update notice, delivery for tomorrow (now)
so about 2 weeks shipping time!
Weights, guys:
- headset: 172g spacers and stuff
- battery seat-post holder, wedges for seat post: 43g
- device mount + gopro under mount: 40g
- uncut fork (no axle): 430g
- both axels: 64g
- painted frame in size 52, no door: 1004g
- handlebar 380x80: 303g
- door: forget to weight in, about 30g or so.
I will probably make a short video tonight, build up maybe start on week-end/next week
Waiting info about the frame!! 8).
I'm waiting for info on how this frame is going to choose between this one or LT-266-SL
-
Happy today!
Just received my package from DHL!
Timeline shipping to Germany.
- Sept. 15 - Wendy sent me the pictures/videos of the painting, ask finalizing detail
- Sept. 18 - received shipping notice + tracking number from Wendy
- Number can be used on DHL tracker too - but no change of status until this Tuesday.
- Oct. 1st - received DHL update notice, delivery for tomorrow (now)
so about 2 weeks shipping time!
Weights, guys:
- headset: 172g spacers and stuff
- battery seat-post holder, wedges for seat post: 43g
- device mount + gopro under mount: 40g
- uncut fork (no axle): 430g
- both axels: 64g
- painted frame in size 52, no door: 1004g
- handlebar 380x80: 303g
- door: forget to weight in, about 30g or so.
I will probably make a short video tonight, build up maybe start on week-end/next week
Congratulations! So the total weight so far is 2.086 kg. Mine should arrive in about a month, but since this is my first build I’m not sure how complicated things might get. I’m really curious to see if everything goes smoothly for you or if there are issues that only experienced builders can handle. In that case I guess I’ll have to ask my local mechanic for some help."
-
These should be a fairly simple build as the biggest headache for inexperienced builders, cable routing, is made more straightforward by removing the door.
Routing the hoses before adding the bb will also help.
-
Measure twice, cut once! ;D
I think my biggest headache will be the internal brake hose on the handlebar/stem/fork...
-
These should be a fairly simple build as the biggest headache for inexperienced builders, cable routing, is made more straightforward by removing the door.
Routing the hoses before adding the bb will also help.
Which door do you refer to? Internal cable routing with 4 cables has always been a pain xD
-
Which door do you refer to? Internal cable routing with 4 cables has always been a pain xD
Must be the downtube storage compartment door/cover...
-
Correct.
The door in the down tube allows access to the cables/ hoses depending what you’re installing.
As mentioned above. The bars are the trickiest bit for 1st timers, but the opening in the downtube will still help ensuring hoses and cables are routed correctly and aren’t crossed up etc.
Just remember to order some foam cable/hose outer to prevent cable/ hoses rattle 👍🏼
-
Congratulations! So the total weight so far is 2.086 kg. Mine should arrive in about a month, but since this is my first build I’m not sure how complicated things might get. I’m really curious to see if everything goes smoothly for you or if there are issues that only experienced builders can handle. In that case I guess I’ll have to ask my local mechanic for some help."
These should be a fairly simple build as the biggest headache for inexperienced builders, cable routing, is made more straightforward by removing the door.
Routing the hoses before adding the bb will also help.
I expect no big challenges *fingers crossed* - usually modern bikes are so Lego.
- Yes, removing the downtube storage door makes it easy, but I also have the neodym magnet set which should help a lot
- this frame comes without guides, so routing must be down by oneself!
- Biggest unknown would be the headset/handlebar with full internal brake hoses, which is a first for me.
- Reusing my Shimano DI2 - so only brake hoses to route makes it easier
- cutting fork and seat-post at a good length tidily - I just use a miter box + gloves + metal saw
- let's see if the BB from Alix is any good that I already bought :D First TT47
- ofc Brake bleeding, Tubeless stuff etc. takes time to learn if first time, and specific tools. - Simpler if you are using TPU, maybe even rim brakes/hybrid brakes.
I already build a full wheel-set from XMCS from bottom up (thx to Peter), so the wheel-set is ready to go and waiting already :D
-
Happy today!
Just received my package from DHL!
Timeline shipping to Germany.
- Sept. 15 - Wendy sent me the pictures/videos of the painting, ask finalizing detail
- Sept. 18 - received shipping notice + tracking number from Wendy
- Number can be used on DHL tracker too - but no change of status until this Tuesday.
- Oct. 1st - received DHL update notice, delivery for tomorrow (now)
so about 2 weeks shipping time!
Weights, guys:
- headset: 172g spacers and stuff
- battery seat-post holder, wedges for seat post: 43g
- device mount + gopro under mount: 40g
- uncut fork (no axle): 430g
- both axels: 64g
- painted frame in size 52, no door: 1004g
- handlebar 380x80: 303g
- door: forget to weight in, about 30g or so.
I will probably make a short video tonight, build up maybe start on week-end/next week
Congratulations ! Mine should arrive in less than two weeks.
Could you take some pictures of inside, bottom bracket area, caliper... Please.
Could you also confirm that the thickness of the frame where there is the rear caliper is 25 mm ?
Thanks.
-
Happy today!
Just received my package from DHL!
Timeline shipping to Germany.
- Sept. 15 - Wendy sent me the pictures/videos of the painting, ask finalizing detail
- Sept. 18 - received shipping notice + tracking number from Wendy
- Number can be used on DHL tracker too - but no change of status until this Tuesday.
- Oct. 1st - received DHL update notice, delivery for tomorrow (now)
so about 2 weeks shipping time!
Weights, guys:
- headset: 172g spacers and stuff
- battery seat-post holder, wedges for seat post: 43g
- device mount + gopro under mount: 40g
- uncut fork (no axle): 430g
- both axels: 64g
- painted frame in size 52, no door: 1004g
- handlebar 380x80: 303g
- door: forget to weight in, about 30g or so.
I will probably make a short video tonight, build up maybe start on week-end/next week
It looks very good so far, including your color 👌 What do you think of the quality of the workmanship and paintwork?
-
It looks very good so far, including your color 👌 What do you think of the quality of the workmanship and paintwork?
I only can say - Pristine! flipflop color looks great, violet by default, green when reflecting light - completely satisfied so far!
I am no Carbon expert, but the layout looks good, the inside you can see a lot of checkboard-style carbon layout, at least in the visible areas :D
Congratulations ! Mine should arrive in less than two weeks.
Could you take some pictures of inside, bottom bracket area, caliper... Please.
Could you also confirm that the thickness of the frame where there is the rear caliper is 25 mm ?
Thanks.
25,7 yes. See pictures.
Inside area, see photos, I have no endoscopic camera, so just some pictures taken from a video.
EDIT:
I made a Short video on YT (uses German texts, but you can see most parts)
https://youtube.com/shorts/VAcbK-CPBhI?feature=share
-
Waiting info about the frame!! 8).
I'm waiting for info on how this frame is going to choose between this one or LT-266-SL
What was the final Price for the frame incl. shipping? Seems there are different numbers in the room 😅
Thx
-
What was the final Price for the frame incl. shipping? Seems there are different numbers in the room 😅
Thx
the frameset is $649 after that it depends on your options, my total was $1035 with the eurobike colorway ($200), extra hanger ($10), shipping to the uk ($131) 4.5% paypal fee ($45). also paypal's currency conversion is shit so that cost about £29
are the frames that people recieved faced?
-
I only can say - Pristine! flipflop color looks great, violet by default, green when reflecting light - completely satisfied so far!
I am no Carbon expert, but the layout looks good, the inside you can see a lot of checkboard-style carbon layout, at least in the visible areas :D
25,7 yes. See pictures.
Inside area, see photos, I have no endoscopic camera, so just some pictures taken from a video.
EDIT:
I made a Short video on YT (uses German texts, but you can see most parts)
https://youtube.com/shorts/VAcbK-CPBhI?feature=share
Smooth as butter, well done Light Carbon.
Thanks again for the pictures and the video.
-
Also placed an order today for a size 52, chameleon 01HS paintwork (was surprised it's only 25$ extra compared to a single color paint), T47 BB, extra UDH hanger and a bag for the inner tube storage compartment.
Total was 1044$ USD including shipping to Canada and paypal fees.
FYI Jim from Lightcarbon told me that they expect to raise the price of the frame at the end of the year due to recent increases in raw material prices.
-
I only can say - Pristine! flipflop color looks great, violet by default, green when reflecting light - completely satisfied so far!
I am no Carbon expert, but the layout looks good, the inside you can see a lot of checkboard-style carbon layout, at least in the visible areas :D
25,7 yes. See pictures.
Inside area, see photos, I have no endoscopic camera, so just some pictures taken from a video.
EDIT:
I made a Short video on YT (uses German texts, but you can see most parts)
https://youtube.com/shorts/VAcbK-CPBhI?feature=share
Can you please measure the actual possible tire width? thank‘s ☺️
-
Can you please measure the actual possible tire width? thank‘s ☺️
This, very much this, please!
I took a gamble when ordering mine, hoping the frame will take the 40mm tires I already have mounted on a set of carbon wheels, with a real width of 41,5mm... :praying:
-
I’m waiting on this info before I order one.
I want to use either 40mm or 42mm external rims and I think it’s pushing it 😁
-
I’m waiting on this info before I order one.
I want to use either 40mm or 42mm external rims and I think it’s pushing it 😁
Wise move... 8)
-
I’m waiting on this info before I order one.
I want to use either 40mm or 42mm external rims and I think it’s pushing it 😁
It depends on your personal clearance tolerance :), but I think those 40s is a bit much.
For what I was able to measure thanks to frame drawings that was posted a few pages back. I measured frame width 46mm so with 38mm tyre there should be clearance of 4mm, you can calculate what that clearance would be with 40s+ tyres.
There is a loot more clearance in forks so maybe go for wider tyres and rims for front and a bit narrower in back.
Disclaimer :) I can not guarantee my measurements are absolutely correct, but if that drawing is right I have good experiences with this kind of measurements.
-
It depends on your personal clearance tolerance :), but I think those 40s is a bit much.
For what I was able to measure thanks to frame drawings that was posted a few pages back. I measured frame width 46mm so with 38mm tyre there should be clearance of 4mm, you can calculate what that clearance would be with 40s+ tyres.
There is a loot more clearance in forks so maybe go for wider tyres and rims for front and a bit narrower in back.
Disclaimer :) I can not guarantee my measurements are absolutely correct, but if that drawing is right I have good experiences with this kind of measurements.
Thanks, but still, I remain a believer... :praying, a lot:
-
It depends on your personal clearance tolerance :), but I think those 40s is a bit much.
For what I was able to measure thanks to frame drawings that was posted a few pages back. I measured frame width 46mm so with 38mm tyre there should be clearance of 4mm, you can calculate what that clearance would be with 40s+ tyres.
There is a loot more clearance in forks so maybe go for wider tyres and rims for front and a bit narrower in back.
Disclaimer :) I can not guarantee my measurements are absolutely correct, but if that drawing is right I have good experiences with this kind of measurements.
I did exactly the same as you. The front is ok but the rear might be tight.
Your guestimations are pretty much the same as mine. Yours are probably a touch more accurate.
I like to experiment and try new things. If this frame doesn’t suit, I’ll probably buy a new Aspero-5 frame instead.
-
I’m waiting on this info before I order one.
I want to use either 40mm or 42mm external rims and I think it’s pushing it 😁
Same here 😄
My email with the detailed order is just waiting to be sent 😄
I would like to ride the Hutchinson Caracal Race, but I have also found a very interesting 38er from Vredestein https://www.bike24.de/p1837167.html and if necessary there is also the Pathfinder, which is said to be narrower.
-
Will I be alone to ride the bike as a confortable "race" road bike only ? Not gravel 😅.
-
Will I be alone to ride the bike as a confortable "race" road bike only ? Not gravel 😅.
Nope, already have a Gravel and wanted something comfy but with 2x drivetrain and fast tyres:D
Right now I'm riding my 34mm tyres and wheelset with my Gravel and wait for the frame.
-
Will I be alone to ride the bike as a confortable "race" road bike only ? Not gravel 😅.
I’m with you!
I want a fast, comfortable aero bike.
Like an Aeroad with a bigger head tube!
This is the best option I could find other than the carbonspeed GT, but it was too expensive for me.
-
Will I be alone to ride the bike as a confortable "race" road bike only ? Not gravel 😅.
Iam building my race bike on this frame. I have ordered CarbonSpeed wheels on CS-D50CU-36 rim (36.6 external width) and Iam planing to put Michelin PRO5 (35mm back and 32mm front). I think that will be pretty good match and when there will be GP6000 in 35 then it will be perfect :).
Micheling PRO5 35mm tyre measures 37mm on rim with 28mm internal rim width
Micheling PRO5 32mm tyre measures 35mm on rim with 28mm internal rim width
-
Iam building my race bike on this frame. I have ordered CarbonSpeed wheels on CS-D50CU-36 rim (36.6 external width) and Iam planing to put Michelin PRO5 (35mm back and 32mm front). I think that will be pretty good match and when there will be GP6000 in 35 then it will be perfect :).
Micheling PRO5 35mm tyre measures 37mm on rim with 28mm internal rim width
Micheling PRO5 32mm tyre measures 35mm on rim with 28mm internal rim width
They’re brilliant tyres, that should be a killer combination.
A 35mm pro 5 on a 32mm internal ( not my picture )
Cue people saying theyll get sidewall cuts etc 🙄
(https://i.postimg.cc/7hFYwcBD/IMG-6069.jpg)
-
They’re brilliant tyres, that should be a killer combination.
A 35mm pro 5 on a 32mm internal ( not my picture )
Cue people saying theyll get sidewall cuts etc 🙄
Idk about sidewall cuts, i do care about tyres unseating, ETRTO states (2024 standard) a 31-35mm interwidth is recommended with a 47-83mm tyre. A 35mm tyre is compatible with 16-27mm inner width
-
Full hooks, they will never unseat. It’s a challenge to unmount them even when you want to.
There are quite a few riding the Josh Portner favourite of a 32mm GP5000 on a 29mm hooked internal - he knows quite a bit about the topic.
After riding tubeless for over 20 years, I’ve never had a tyre unseat. Never
The wonderful thing about being an adult, we can do whatever we like 👍🏼
-
Same here 😄
My email with the detailed order is just waiting to be sent 😄
I would like to ride the Hutchinson Caracal Race, but I have also found a very interesting 38er from Vredestein https://www.bike24.de/p1837167.html and if necessary there is also the Pathfinder, which is said to be narrower.
Those are the tires I already have on a set of wheels, Caracal Race 40mm, they measure 41,5mm mounted. I'll see if they fit...
-
Will I be alone to ride the bike as a confortable "race" road bike only ? Not gravel 😅.
I'm my case I'll use it as a fast aero allroad/light gravel bike. I already have a 2026 Orbea Terra with 2.2" tires for regular gravel and exploring duties...
-
Those are the tires I already have on a set of wheels, Caracal Race 40mm, they measure 41,5mm mounted. I'll see if they fit...
Yes, the Caracal Race would also be my favorite, but I'm afraid that doesn't fit 🙄
-
Yes, the Caracal Race would also be my favorite, but I'm afraid that doesn't fit 🙄
I have the Caracal Race 40 on a rim with 19mm inner width...and it's 42mm. I think with 21mm it grows up to 43mm.
-
I have the Caracal Race 40 on a rim with 19mm inner width...and it's 42mm. I think with 21mm it grows up to 43mm.
I measured my tanwall Caracal Race 40's on 20mm ID rims with a caliper and they were 41,5mm at 40 psi...
-
Ordered a size 52 frame plus handlebars. It got shipped a couple weeks ago, so hopefully I receive it soon!
Sharing a few pictures that LC sent me.
(https://i.imgur.com/8Jd27Jpl.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6G5Z9gql.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vw8vybDl.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ovWiBIRl.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v1KtA9zl.jpeg)
-
Hey all,
I’m following this awesome thread for a while and I’m now also in the process of ordering the new LCR018-D and can’t decide between size 52 or 54.
My details:
– Height: 176 cm
– Inseam: 82.5 cm (measured in underwear using book method)
– Flexibility: not great
– Riding: mostly endurance longer rides, occasionally on flats in aero position
I don’t have a comparable modern bike – my old Bulls was a 56, but it felt too big and isn’t a real reference point geometry-wise.
What I’m considering right now:
• Size 52 → 100 mm stem, 15 mm seatpost offset
• Size 54 → 90 mm stem (or possibly 80 mm), 15 mm offset
LightCarbon told me both sizes could work — it’s mostly preference. So now I’m trying to make a well-informed decision before placing the order.
From reading through this thread, here’s what I noted from other users around my size:
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → chose 52 with 380/110 and 0 offset
• 178 cm / 83 inseam → chose 54 with 380/100
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → said they’d go 54 with 90 or 80 stem
• 178 / 87 inseam → going for 52 with 110 stem
If you’re around 174–178 cm, I’d be super interested in hearing what you went for — or would go for — and why.
Also curious to hear from anyone riding a similar endurance-style geometry.
Thanks in advance :D
-
Quick update; So, I started building up, takes some time, because first fully internal frame , taking video/positioning shot, and Real life etc.
- Without magnetic set, forget it! I would say, impossible to cable everything. But with it, not so much of a problem so far, just takes some time and training, And you better have 3+ hands or use tape a lot to get the whole fork, handlebar, spacers, compression plug together with the brake hoses. But that's expected for this kind of feature, I guess.
- Hydraulic hoses & electric cables are fully connected so far.
- Fork cutting: Didn't get a perfect cut, as I don't have a good cutting thingy, but used a miter box... that usually works fine, like for the seat post, but here, because we don't have a top-cut with the integrated handlebar, the angle on which we want to cut, is not 90º. So if you have any tools, that can hold the fork in some degree, that'll be perfect.
- Bottom bracket... first T47 for me, so I just ordered a good looking thing from Alix, but now found out, it's 68mm vs. 86,5mm (item title/description also had no info it was hidden in the details...) that you need here. For this kind of BB there is not a lot of selection here, so I have to wait 2 more days for a local bb which is unfortunately more expensive, but at least it will be a Rotor one and even a little bit lighter :D.
So take note, that you need T47 86.5 ,24m for Shimano/Dub etc. as your Groupsets needs. Maybe other people can post their BB that they ordered.
Otherwise, the build quality, color, carbon lay-up looks great for my amateur eyes!
About the gravel/tire discussion: I will reuse my Schwalbe G-One Speed 35C, Tubeless, as I never had a puncture in 3-4 years (only broken valves - bye SV, Cliks all-over the place now). With the XMCS carbon rims that I used, they also plopped with floor pump perfectly. When those are wore down, maybe next year, I will maybe consider using TPU + lighter/cheaper tire, but so far I really liked the G-One Speeds.
-
Ordered a size 52 frame plus handlebars. It got shipped a couple weeks ago, so hopefully I receive it soon!
Sharing a few pictures that LC sent me.
(https://i.imgur.com/v1KtA9zl.jpeg)
British racing green or which green did you get?
-
Will anyone who has the handlebars + out front mount and a Garmin 1050 report back if it fits with the mount they provide? Seems like you need 8 cm to the tip of the mount out front from the bars to make it fit.
-
Hey all,
I’m following this awesome thread for a while and I’m now also in the process of ordering the new LCR018-D and can’t decide between size 52 or 54.
My details:
– Height: 176 cm
– Inseam: 82.5 cm (measured in underwear using book method)
– Flexibility: not great
– Riding: mostly endurance longer rides, occasionally on flats in aero position
I don’t have a comparable modern bike – my old Bulls was a 56, but it felt too big and isn’t a real reference point geometry-wise.
What I’m considering right now:
• Size 52 → 100 mm stem, 15 mm seatpost offset
• Size 54 → 90 mm stem (or possibly 80 mm), 15 mm offset
LightCarbon told me both sizes could work — it’s mostly preference. So now I’m trying to make a well-informed decision before placing the order.
From reading through this thread, here’s what I noted from other users around my size:
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → chose 52 with 380/110 and 0 offset
• 178 cm / 83 inseam → chose 54 with 380/100
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → said they’d go 54 with 90 or 80 stem
• 178 / 87 inseam → going for 52 with 110 stem
If you’re around 174–178 cm, I’d be super interested in hearing what you went for — or would go for — and why.
Also curious to hear from anyone riding a similar endurance-style geometry.
Thanks in advance :D
177 cm / 82 inseam → I went for 54 with 380/100
-
Hey all,
I’m following this awesome thread for a while and I’m now also in the process of ordering the new LCR018-D and can’t decide between size 52 or 54.
My details:
– Height: 176 cm
– Inseam: 82.5 cm (measured in underwear using book method)
– Flexibility: not great
– Riding: mostly endurance longer rides, occasionally on flats in aero position
I don’t have a comparable modern bike – my old Bulls was a 56, but it felt too big and isn’t a real reference point geometry-wise.
What I’m considering right now:
• Size 52 → 100 mm stem, 15 mm seatpost offset
• Size 54 → 90 mm stem (or possibly 80 mm), 15 mm offset
LightCarbon told me both sizes could work — it’s mostly preference. So now I’m trying to make a well-informed decision before placing the order.
From reading through this thread, here’s what I noted from other users around my size:
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → chose 52 with 380/110 and 0 offset
• 178 cm / 83 inseam → chose 54 with 380/100
• 177 cm / 82 inseam → said they’d go 54 with 90 or 80 stem
• 178 / 87 inseam → going for 52 with 110 stem
If you’re around 174–178 cm, I’d be super interested in hearing what you went for — or would go for — and why.
Also curious to hear from anyone riding a similar endurance-style geometry.
Thanks in advance :D
If you’re unsure, get a bike fit.
The frame sizes and bar dimensions other people have chosen are irrelevant to achieving a nice fit.
You might have a really long or short torso, or long/ short arms so get one done now and ensure it’s correct, rather than guessing and being stuck with something that’s difficult to change.
Yes, it’s more money but it’s worth it in the long run.
-
Has anyone been able to use it yet? Feelings?
-
...
About the gravel/tire discussion: I will reuse my Schwalbe G-One Speed 35C, Tubeless, as I never had a puncture in 3-4 years (only broken valves - bye SV, Cliks all-over the place now). With the XMCS carbon rims that I used, they also plopped with floor pump perfectly. When those are wore down, maybe next year, I will maybe consider using TPU + lighter/cheaper tire, but so far I really liked the G-One Speeds.
Regarding those tires, can you tell us their mounted width on your wheels? And when will you be able to test them on the frame? ;D
-
- Bottom bracket... first T47 for me, so I just ordered a good looking thing from Alix, but now found out, it's 68mm vs. 86,5mm (item title/description also had no info it was hidden in the details...) that you need here. For this kind of BB there is not a lot of selection here, so I have to wait 2 more days for a local bb which is unfortunately more expensive, but at least it will be a Rotor one and even a little bit lighter :D.
So take note, that you need T47 86.5 ,24m for Shimano/Dub etc. as your Groupsets needs. Maybe other people can post their BB that they ordered.
It’s T47 85.5 which basically is the standard size of T47 BBs and very common. :)
If you don’t have a magnetic routing tool, use a vacuum
Cleaner and a light thread :)
-
- Bottom bracket... first T47 for me, so I just ordered a good looking thing from Alix, but now found out, it's 68mm vs. 86,5mm (item title/description also had no info it was hidden in the details...) that you need here. For this kind of BB there is not a lot of selection here, so I have to wait 2 more days for a local bb which is unfortunately more expensive, but at least it will be a Rotor one and even a little bit lighter :D.
So take note, that you need T47 86.5 ,24m for Shimano/Dub etc. as your Groupsets needs. Maybe other people can post their BB that they ordered.
i bought this praxis bb www.merlincycles.com/praxis-t47-integrated-bottom-bracket-for-shimano-246836.html token make some about the same price. it didnt seem worth trying to save £20 on a cheap one of unknown quality from alix
-
i bought this praxis bb www.merlincycles.com/praxis-t47-integrated-bottom-bracket-for-shimano-246836.html token make some about the same price. it didnt seem worth trying to save £20 on a cheap one of unknown quality from alix
I went for the Token Ninja model (BB47V24) and already have it at home, waiting for the frame to arrive. I'm a big fan of Token Ninja BBs, for their price, bearing quality and cup thread-in design! I've been using then for many years now on all my current and previous bikes with PF frames...
-
Regarding those tires, can you tell us their mounted width on your wheels? And when will you be able to test them on the frame? ;D
Photos taken with the 35x622 on a 33c rim.
Front is lots of space, about 1cm on each side.
Back is more constraint, on the width of the wheel: the chainstays are the major hurdle if you want to go wider here, I guess - one of my allen keys just fits in there, 4mm wide, but stuck so <4mm.
So I guess, if you add 3*3 + 35 you come at 41, so a 40er should JUST fit, but maybe has not a lot of margin anymore.
-
zealot128: Nice, thanks. That looks similar as I measured from lightcarbon drawings :). 33c rim means 33mm internal width, what rim is that, what is a real width tyre measure?
-
Photos taken with the 35x622 on a 33c rim.
Front is lots of space, about 1cm on each side.
Back is more constraint, on the width of the wheel: the chainstays are the major hurdle if you want to go wider here, I guess - one of my allen keys just fits in there, 4mm wide, but stuck so <4mm.
So I guess, if you add 3*3 + 35 you come at 41, so a 40er should JUST fit, but maybe has not a lot of margin anymore.
Thank you very much, sir! But still, can I ask you to measure both the front and rear tire widths using that caliper, please? Or have you measured them and they really have 35mm width?
It seems the use of the Caracal Race 40C at the rear will be very difficult indeed. Anyway, I already have them, mounted on 21mm ID rims, and I'll teste it once the frame arrives. I also have some old 19mm ID wheels to test that tire at the rear. Or I can keep that tire/rim at the front and use a narrower tire at the rear, on the same rim... ???
-
Photos taken with the 35x622 on a 33c rim.
Front is lots of space, about 1cm on each side.
Back is more constraint, on the width of the wheel: the chainstays are the major hurdle if you want to go wider here, I guess - one of my allen keys just fits in there, 4mm wide, but stuck so <4mm.
So I guess, if you add 3*3 + 35 you come at 41, so a 40er should JUST fit, but maybe has not a lot of margin anymore.
Thanks for the update, i assume that the rim width is 33mm outside?
Can you take some pictures of the front derailleur with that setup?
-
I went for the Token Ninja model (BB47V24) and already have it at home, waiting for the frame to arrive. I'm a big fan of Token Ninja BBs, for their price, bearing quality and cup thread-in design! I've been using then for many years now on all my current and previous bikes with PF frames...
What's the best alternative for a GXP crank? Adapter on LightCarbon's shimano T47? Would like to reuse my 11s Red eTap HRD
I have asked Jim for a GXP alternative, but not heard anything yet.
-
I've finally ordered my frame and just added a complete SRAM Rival AXS XPLR groupset.
This is going to be a wonderful experience ;D
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/sram-rival-e1-xplr-wide-axs-13-fach-gruppe
-
What's the best alternative for a GXP crank? Adapter on LightCarbon's shimano T47? Would like to reuse my 11s Red eTap HRD
I have asked Jim for a GXP alternative, but not heard anything yet.
Yes, assuming you already have the regular T47 BB for 24mm axle, you'd just need an adapter shim/reducer for the non-driveside (nds) bearing, as a GXP axle is 22mm nds and regular 24mm ds. Those adapters are easy to find: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-gxp-adapter.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-gxp-adapter.html)
-
Hello everyone, I ordered my size 56 in August and I am eagerly awaiting delivery right now. Wendy sent me a Tracking No. today, which unfortunately comes up without useful information as of now. Purportedly the carrier ticket was printed out on September 25th and thus far no new info in the tracking. To the guys who already got their frames: Did you have a tracking no. and was it also in this initial state for several weeks?
-
I've finally ordered my frame and just added a complete SRAM Rival AXS XPLR groupset.
This is going to be a wonderful experience ;D
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/sram-rival-e1-xplr-wide-axs-13-fach-gruppe
Nice. I tried gray color when playing around with AI-tools.
-
Hello everyone, I ordered my size 56 in August and I am eagerly awaiting delivery right now. Wendy sent me a Tracking No. today, which unfortunately comes up without useful information as of now. Purportedly the carrier ticket was printed out on September 25th and thus far no new info in the tracking. To the guys who already got their frames: Did you have a tracking no. and was it also in this initial state for several weeks?
I got my tracking number 8 days ago and its still listed as "shipper has created a label".
I wonder do UPS not update the tracking until it arrives in the UK? Thats the only thing that makes sense to me.
Really hoping everything is still not stuck in China.
-
zealot128: Nice, thanks. That looks similar as I measured from lightcarbon drawings :). 33c rim means 33mm internal width, what rim is that, what is a real width tyre measure?
Thanks for the update, i assume that the rim width is 33mm outside?
Can you take some pictures of the front derailleur with that setup?
Thank you very much, sir! But still, can I ask you to measure both the front and rear tire widths using that caliper, please? Or have you measured them and they really have 35mm width?
It seems the use of the Caracal Race 40C at the rear will be very difficult indeed. Anyway, I already have them, mounted on 21mm ID rims, and I'll teste it once the frame arrives. I also have some old 19mm ID wheels to test that tire at the rear. Or I can keep that
tire/rim at the front and use a narrower tire at the rear, on the same rim... ???
Tires both are Schwalbe G-One Speed 35-622 TR. Rim has 33mm outside measurement, 25mm or so internal width.
Width of those tires:
- Back: 37.4mm @ 2.5 bar
- Front 38.6mm @ 4.0 bar (filled in Tubeless stuff yesterday and pumped up harder, waited for leaks over night, None!)
So YMMV, those "35" tires get wider depending on rim + pressure i suppose. In this light, the front is even more spacy.
The Shimano DI2 FD has only 8mm gap to this tire - see photo for clearance.
-
I got my tracking number 8 days ago and its still listed as "shipper has created a label".
I wonder do UPS not update the tracking until it arrives in the UK? Thats the only thing that makes sense to me.
Really hoping everything is still not stuck in China.
My shipping status (DHL) didn't get updated 1 day before delivery, so I guess that is not a thing to worry about. 13 days to Germany.
-
Yes, assuming you already have the regular T47 BB for 24mm axle, you'd just need an adapter shim/reducer for the non-driveside (nds) bearing, as a GXP axle is 22mm nds and regular 24mm ds. Those adapters are easy to find: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-gxp-adapter.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-gxp-adapter.html)
I don't have the BB for 24mm axle, but Shimano T47 BB is the closest option from LightCarbon.
-
Hello everyone, I ordered my size 56 in August and I am eagerly awaiting delivery right now. Wendy sent me a Tracking No. today, which unfortunately comes up without useful information as of now. Purportedly the carrier ticket was printed out on September 25th and thus far no new info in the tracking. To the guys who already got their frames: Did you have a tracking no. and was it also in this initial state for several weeks?
Don't worry, it is normal. For exemple, if you live in Europe, you will not have any update until 2 or 3 days before delivery in your country.
I am on day 11 of shipping and I have the same information as your. In the next few days, I know that I will have an update.
-
I don't have the BB for 24mm axle, but Shimano T47 BB is the closest option from LightCarbon.
Ok, so you can use that LC supplied BB and a GXP adapter/shim, like the ones I posted before. Or any other similar BB from Token, Praxis, etc...
-
Tires both are Schwalbe G-One Speed 35-622 TR. Rim has 33mm outside measurement, 25mm or so internal width.
Width of those tires:
- Back: 37.4mm @ 2.5 bar
- Front 38.6mm @ 4.0 bar (filled in Tubeless stuff yesterday and pumped up harder, waited for leaks over night, None!)
So YMMV, those "35" tires get wider depending on rim + pressure i suppose. In this light, the front is even more spacy.
The Shimano DI2 FD has only 8mm gap to this tire - see photo for clearance.
So, your rear tire is 37.4mm and my Caracal Race is 41.5mm, exactly 4mm more, that should be 2mm more on each side of the tire compared to yours. Taking your measurement with de 4mm allen key as reference, I guess it will leave just 1mm gap on each side... :(
-
Would someone mind putting some callipers across the chainstays so we can see a true measurement.
If that matches the estimate from RIP and myself then we truly know the exact clearance.
Many thanks
-
Nice. I tried gray color when playing around with AI-tools.
That does look nice!
I initially ordered an all matte black frame but decided to have it painted by LC. \saves a lot of work and it is harder for me to spraypaint a bike in my shed when it is cold.
Hopefully, this is how my frame will turn out—depending on whether the engineers at LC approve the paint job. I’m expecting to hear back from them this week.
It’s based on the Eurobike demo model paint scheme, but with all the "gold" details and decals replaced by Pantone Cool Gray 10C. I’ve also changed the sharp black corner on the front fork into a smoother curve. The frame will feature the bike brand of the wholesale company I work for. We normally only use that brand for our urban and urban E-bikes, but I think it’s a fun touch to have the name on this frame too.
-
Would someone mind putting some callipers across the chainstays so we can see a true measurement.
If that matches the estimate from RIP and myself then we truly know the exact clearance.
Many thanks
there you are. Depending on where your tire is ballooning / roundness I guess. My tire for example has the maximum diameter at the second spot.
-
Awesome, thanks for that.
Very much appreciate your help with all these questions.
It looks like it validates the estimates RIP and I made based off of the cad drawing.
Just for a frame of reference. Those pro5 35s I previously posted measure 40.5mm @ 40 psi on the 32mm internal, with a 40mm external.
They’ll work no problem for me.
The same tyres on a 25mm internal/32mm external are 37.5mm @ 45psi
On a 20mm internal/ 28 external they’re 35mm @ 48 psi
All rims are hooked
-
couple of bike specific question and a couple of general build questions
are the bb and brake mount surfaces faced?
should you run the rear brake hose above or below the bb?
should you run a foam liner just to where the headtube starts or in the headtube as well
if you have a wired electronic sytem like di2 or erx should a liner be used on those cables as well?
-
Regarding the Tracking Problems:
Try out this page: https://parcelsapp.com/
Works for me very well with international orders
-
couple of bike specific question and a couple of general build questions
are the bb and brake mount surfaces faced?
should you run the rear brake hose above or below the bb?
should you run a foam liner just to where the headtube starts or in the headtube as well
if you have a wired electronic sytem like di2 or erx should a liner be used on those cables as well?
Is running a foam liner on the outside of the brake hose more of a nice to have than a need to have thing? I have little experience with hydraulic brakes and full internal routing. Just routed a bike, but haven't connected the hoses yet, so I can still manage to put some insulation on them (I think).
Also, I see kits for this on AliX, ZTTO and other brands. Is this an item I can source from elsewhere also (i.e. hardware store or similar) so I don't have to wait for another package from the far east?
Appologies for unrailing the topic.
-
couple of bike specific question and a couple of general build questions
are the bb and brake mount surfaces faced?
should you run the rear brake hose above or below the bb?
should you run a foam liner just to where the headtube starts or in the headtube as well
if you have a wired electronic sytem like di2 or erx should a liner be used on those cables as well?
- I can’t answer that because I don’t have the frame!
- Here as well, I can’t give a precise answer, but it doesn’t really change much whether it goes underneath or over the top (just do whatever works best). The important thing is to leave some extra length in the hydraulic hose so that you have the freedom to turn the handlebar completely.
- For the sound-dampening tube, I measure from the BB up to almost the top of the head tube.
- I don’t use the sound-dampening tube for electronic wires, only for hydraulic and mechanical shifting cables. However, in some groupsets (campagnolo eps) the connectors are quite large, so in those cases I put a small piece there to avoid noise.
-
A few more examples if anyone needs any inspiration
-
A few more examples if anyone needs any inspiration
Gemini is becoming good haha
-
I have a set of 45mm Go-Zone wheels im putting on the LCR018-D for the build - I think they weigh in around 1380g and have brass nipples - will work well as my daily driver wheels as I plan to use the bike more or less every day.
I want to get something a bit more special for the weekend rides and wanted to try to wavy rim profile to see how it copes with crosswinds, so have got the following quote back from Mostsports:
50mm Wavy Profile Rims
Gloss Marble Finish
Super light rim version
22mm internal
1420 steel aero spokes
H-Works SR261 Hubs
Brass Nipples (im in Ireland - brass nipples ar emoe or less non-negotiable!)
Approx Weight: 1220g
Asking for $510 plus postage
Anything better available for the money??
-
I've been playing around too with some ideas. taking inspiration from the Maclaren Marlboro livery. Still have a few things I'd like to change from the AI image but a pretty good start for what I am thinking.
-
Is running a foam liner on the outside of the brake hose more of a nice to have than a need to have thing? I have little experience with hydraulic brakes and full internal routing. Just routed a bike, but haven't connected the hoses yet, so I can still manage to put some insulation on them (I think).
Also, I see kits for this on AliX, ZTTO and other brands. Is this an item I can source from elsewhere also (i.e. hardware store or similar) so I don't have to wait for another package from the far east?
Appologies for unrailing the topic.
Jagwire makes some that's quite cheap, so I would just get that.
-
Is running a foam liner on the outside of the brake hose more of a nice to have than a need to have thing? I have little experience with hydraulic brakes and full internal routing. Just routed a bike, but haven't connected the hoses yet, so I can still manage to put some insulation on them (I think).
Also, I see kits for this on AliX, ZTTO and other brands. Is this an item I can source from elsewhere also (i.e. hardware store or similar) so I don't have to wait for another package from the far east?
Appologies for unrailing the topic.
i saw video on youtube by oz cycle where he reccomends d profile epdm
-
i saw video on youtube by oz cycle where he reccomends d profile epdm
Did he say why? Maybe the sticky stuff keeps in place more?
-
Did he say why? Maybe the sticky stuff keeps in place more?
i think just because you can buy it in any big hardware store, heres the video with timestamp https://youtu.be/j9VDmwrhLQw?si=Qwlyk7kvECNViMBa&t=142
-
Jagwire makes some that's quite cheap, so I would just get that.
Thanks, my LBS had some foam of unknown origin in the workshop that I was promised a meter or so of, so I'll try that.
-
I‘ve also ordered a frameset today, size 50! Estimated shipping to Germany by end of December… hope to find some more input here… will order BB and some other smaller parts till then… complete GRX setup will be swapped from my old Cube Nuroad within some Elitewheels Carbon Rims…
-
Finished the build, had my first ride today!
Great ride feel. Very soft feel, especially with those 35C tires. But the frame, maybe the special seat-post takes meaningful amount of road vibration and bumps. On the other hand, it feels also stiff when putting in a little power.
Even though I reused my 105 DI2 it has the New Bike Feel. Very agile with that short handlebar (80mm). Handlebar is a little to narrow in the end, If I could, I would probably go wider (38cm -> 40cm), as my previous HB had all flare, but this has none. Anyways, that's more Aero, right?! 8)
For building up, my key learnings:
- Make sure that you have the right BB and the right tool for the BB, as I already wrote before I made mistake here. Also there seems to be a couple of different diameters, numbers of notches etc. for T47 BB tools.
Fork cutting - I would say this is the most risky situation, as you need to cut with an angle AND - according to the one page manual from LC - "make sure there is a gap of 4-5mm between the top of the stem and the expander plug". Even the usual tools on Alix are only useful for cutting 90º - I build a contraption with miter box + angle to get it into the right direction but used a jigsay in the end anyways. The cut is not particular bad, but not beautiful either - If more experienced builders can share their process here, that will probably be helpful You probably have to cut 90º - I didn't read the "manual" very carefully. Check next post.- Besides cabling the nasty brake hoses through handlebar + frame there were no other major obstacles.
- No sounds from the frame, even putting in 1kW, no squeaks etc. - BUT only the rattling of the rear brake hose in the frame when moving vertically with the bike - As some of you mentioned: having a liner may help here. I tried tape, but ofc the hose will move inside the frame when you turn the handlebar and the tape will cut loose
(https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig.png?cache=3604) (https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig)
-
Thanks a lot for the detailed review - the bike looks fantastic and all sounds very positive.
The only thing that is scaring me now is the angled steerer cut - never had that with any build before. I’m always nervous with a steerer cut anyway and have a very good standard cutting guide, but it’s flat, so is going to be pretty useless here by the looks of things.
Any tips on how to achieve a good cut?
I’m guessing trying to use the handlebar with it very well protected would be the easiest way to get the exact angle as a cutting guide, but even that is leaving things open to a potential disaster!
-
I don't understand why you need to cut the fork with an angle ?
Moreover, the expander plug is straight at the top.
By the way, thanks for the review :).
-
I don't understand why you need to cut the fork with an angle ?
Moreover, the expander plug is straight at the top.
By the way, thanks for the review :).
Thanks a lot for the detailed review - the bike looks fantastic and all sounds very positive.
The only thing that is scaring me now is the angled steerer cut - never had that with any build before. I’m always nervous with a steerer cut anyway and have a very good standard cutting guide, but it’s flat, so is going to be pretty useless here by the looks of things.
Any tips on how to achieve a good cut?
I’m guessing trying to use the handlebar with it very well protected would be the easiest way to get the exact angle as a cutting guide, but even that is leaving things open to a potential disaster!
maybe that's also right, and I did it wrong - which is very probable, because I never had an integrated HB before - I used a sharpie to mark the cut line in parallel to the handlebar - that's not 90º - but you are right, the top stem should be 90º :D :o
They also had a closer look to the one page guide with the frame. The expander should be parallel - I edited the previous post and removed the cutting section.
I will check again tomorrow and maybe file a little more.
-
Yeah that looks like 90°. A regular steerer tube saw guide should work.
-
How will a 100% tariff starting November affect those of us who have frames on order?
-
maybe that's also right, and I did it wrong - which is very probable, because I never had an integrated HB before - I used a sharpie to mark the cut line in parallel to the handlebar - that's not 90º - but you are right, the top stem should be 90º :D :o
They also had a closer look to the one page guide with the frame. The expander should be parallel - I edited the previous post and removed the cutting section.
I will check again tomorrow and maybe file a little more.
Thanks for the clarification. Have you applied the tightening torque of the guide ? Some of them look too much.
What is about the aero of the bike ? Does it feel fast ?
-
How will a 100% tariff starting November affect those of us who have frames on order?
Tariffs are paid by the consumers. You can hopefully ask light carbon to set the price of the frame to 120 USD, so that you only pay a fraction of the tariffs.
That sentence only applies to US residents. For the others, it mostly implies we paid too much because USD lost 1% value which the announcement yesterday.
-
- Make sure that you have the right BB and the right tool for the BB, as I already wrote before I made mistake here. Also there seems to be a couple of different diameters, numbers of notches etc. for T47 BB tools.
Nice Bike! Congrats.
One question: Which BB tool did you use for your Rotor T4724?
Thanks![/list]
-
I am just saying...
https://jmcarbonframe.nl/frames-race/
😁😁😁😁😁
-
Nice Bike! Congrats.
One question: Which BB tool did you use for your Rotor T4724?
Thanks!
I looked on Amazon with stuff that didn't break a bank and were delivered fast. The tool looked the same like this one:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c30NudkR just double the price AND without the long screw to tighten it from the other side..... So i had to turn it from the same side, which is hard, as it will slip off in no time.
Here is one, only the socket: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c30h9Jur that's exactly my part from amazon.
-
Someone with the out front mount mind measuring it's length out front of the bars? Trying to figure if it will fit the larger form factor bike computers like a garmin 1050 or 1040.
-
Finished the build, had my first ride today!
Great ride feel. Very soft feel, especially with those 35C tires. But the frame, maybe the special seat-post takes meaningful amount of road vibration and bumps. On the other hand, it feels also stiff when putting in a little power.
Even though I reused my 105 DI2 it has the New Bike Feel. Very agile with that short handlebar (80mm). Handlebar is a little to narrow in the end, If I could, I would probably go wider (38cm -> 40cm), as my previous HB had all flare, but this has none. Anyways, that's more Aero, right?! 8)
For building up, my key learnings:
- Make sure that you have the right BB and the right tool for the BB, as I already wrote before I made mistake here. Also there seems to be a couple of different diameters, numbers of notches etc. for T47 BB tools.
Fork cutting - I would say this is the most risky situation, as you need to cut with an angle AND - according to the one page manual from LC - "make sure there is a gap of 4-5mm between the top of the stem and the expander plug". Even the usual tools on Alix are only useful for cutting 90º - I build a contraption with miter box + angle to get it into the right direction but used a jigsay in the end anyways. The cut is not particular bad, but not beautiful either - If more experienced builders can share their process here, that will probably be helpful You probably have to cut 90º - I didn't read the "manual" very carefully. Check next post.- Besides cabling the nasty brake hoses through handlebar + frame there were no other major obstacles.
- No sounds from the frame, even putting in 1kW, no squeaks etc. - BUT only the rattling of the rear brake hose in the frame when moving vertically with the bike - As some of you mentioned: having a liner may help here. I tried tape, but ofc the hose will move inside the frame when you turn the handlebar and the tape will cut loose
(https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig.png?cache=3604) (https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig)
8,448 gr ! I Will have similar setup I hoped It would have been lighter, my target was 7,5 not achievable, as long as drastic change on the feoupset, tyres ect.
-
Someone with the out front mount mind measuring it's length out front of the bars? Trying to figure if it will fit the larger form factor bike computers like a garmin 1050 or 1040.
YMMV but at Eurobike they explicitely told me that the space is so that larger devices such as Garmin 1050 can be mounted.
-
Was it ever confirmed here if the frame is UDH compatible? I want to run xplr 1x13 on it
-
zealot128: Bike looks pretty sweet, can't wait till my one arrives. Can you please take some detail photo how computer mount looks, thanks.
-
According to LC, mine will be shipped in about a month, so I expect to have it delivered in late November. As I already have everything ready to build it (except the 40C tire conundrum, maybe I'll need a different smaller rear tire, although I have options at home), I hope to have it ready to ride in early December... :fingerscrossed:
-
Mine arrived today. The Garmin 1050 fits perfectly on the handlebars.
-
For those of you that are going for a 1x transmission on this frameset like me, what do you plan to do regarding the pre-installed front derailleur hanger/mount:
1. Simply remove it and just tape the 2 remaining holes;
2. Remove it and use some kind of cover to hide the holes (something like the one Specialized has for the SL7 frame comes to mind, picture bellow, but it may be frame specific, idk);
3. Use it to install a chainguide/chaincatcher;
(https://www.ciclisport.com/images/products/2/20/2021-tarmac-sl7-pro-sram-force-etap-axs-1x_17984(1).jpg)
-
For those of you that are going for a 1x transmission on this frameset like me, what do you plan to do regarding the pre-installed front derailleur hanger/mount:
1. Simply remove it and just tape the 2 remaining holes;
2. Remove it and use some kind of cover to hide the holes (something like the one Specialized has for the SL7 frame comes to mind, picture bellow, but it may be frame specific, idk);
3. Use it to install a chainguide/chaincatcher;
(https://www.ciclisport.com/images/products/2/20/2021-tarmac-sl7-pro-sram-force-etap-axs-1x_17984(1).jpg)
I’m planning install a chainguide just to make sure the chains don't fall off.
It would also be nice to hear other people's 1x setups!?
-
I'll be using the following 1x13 transmission:
- WHEELTOP EDS GeX Wireless Shifter/Derailleur, with 76mm cage for 46T
- SRAM Rival XPLR XG-1351 10-46 cassette
- SRAM Rival chain
- AliExpress crank with 40 or 42T aero single chainring (not yet decided which size)
-
For those of you that are going for a 1x transmission on this frameset like me, what do you plan to do regarding the pre-installed front derailleur hanger/mount:
1. Simply remove it and just tape the 2 remaining holes;
2. Remove it and use some kind of cover to hide the holes (something like the one Specialized has for the SL7 frame comes to mind, picture bellow, but it may be frame specific, idk);
3. Use it to install a chainguide/chaincatcher;
I'm thinking about mounting this to the frontderailleur mount:
(https://road.cc/sites/default/files/styles/main_width/public/2023-wolf-tooth-lonewolf-aero-chainguide-1.jpeg)
-
Delighted to say my LCR018-D has arrived this morning in N.Ireland.
Delivery was via UPS due to DPD saying they would not deliver to this region (very strange, but no point arguing) - got hit for £40 of import fees which wasn't too bad.
Approx 13 days delivery from when Carol emailed me to say it had been dispatched.
Box looks to be in good condition, a quick peek in and everything has been foam wrapped very well and I cannot wait to get time later to see how the lacquered raw carbon finish looks.
It'll be a couple of weeks before I get the build done at least, but I hope to document everything as I go and will provide updates to anyone who may be interested.
This will be a pure road build with Ultegra 8170 and 45mm deep wheel set with 30mm GP5000s.
-
For those of you that are going for a 1x transmission on this frameset like me, what do you plan to do regarding the pre-installed front derailleur hanger/mount:
1. Simply remove it and just tape the 2 remaining holes;
2. Remove it and use some kind of cover to hide the holes (something like the one Specialized has for the SL7 frame comes to mind, picture bellow, but it may be frame specific, idk);
3. Use it to install a chainguide/chaincatcher
I’ve asked Wendy if it’s possible to ditch it completely - she answered that they won’t drill the holes etc.
No need for a chain guide. I’m not using one on my enduro and that bike gets beaten in Finale Ligure
-
Approx 13 days delivery from when Carol emailed me to say it had been dispatched.
Box looks to be in good condition, a quick peek in and everything has been foam wrapped very well and I cannot wait to get time later to see how the lacquered raw carbon finish looks.
It'll be a couple of weeks before I get the build done at least, but I hope to document everything as I go and will provide updates to anyone who may be interested.
This will be a pure road build with Ultegra 8170 and 45mm deep wheel set with 30mm GP5000s.
Thats very similar to what I was thinking about building, I'll be delighted to see pictures :D
-
I'm thinking about mounting this to the frontderailleur mount:
(https://road.cc/sites/default/files/styles/main_width/public/2023-wolf-tooth-lonewolf-aero-chainguide-1.jpeg)
If I go that way, I'll use a similar AliExpress cheapo model for a fraction of the cost of that Wolf Tooth Components one:
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S2c666a41e2e249ee852fdeffffad7ec4x.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&hash=2000)
Come to think of it, I'll order one just to have that option at home when my frame arrives, it's that cheap! ;)
-
I’ve asked Wendy if it’s possible to ditch it completely - she answered that they won’t drill the holes etc.
No need for a chain guide. I’m not using one on my enduro and that bike gets beaten in Finale Ligure
I considered ordering my frame without it too but I don't know what the future holds. Right now I'll mount it with 1x13 transmission, but...
Meanwhile I remembered that I already have a cover! I also own a Scott Foil RC MY23 and the bike came with some extra bits and pieces, among them was a cover for that exact function! 8)
(https://soshanger.com/20371-large_default/scott-foil-2023-front-derailleur-hanger-cover-296243-.jpg)
Not sure if it's compatible, but I'll check it out...
-
I considered ordering my frame without it too but I don't know what the future holds. Right now I'll mount it with 1x13 transmission, but...
Exactly my thoughts, Who knows that in the future I would like a 2x drive train......
That ZTTO chain guide is also a great option.
-
The ZTTO model is more that 90% cheaper for me... :o
-
Delighted to say my LCR018-D has arrived this morning in N.Ireland.
Delivery was via UPS due to DPD saying they would not deliver to this region (very strange, but no point arguing) - got hit for £40 of import fees which wasn't too bad.
Approx 13 days delivery from when Carol emailed me to say it had been dispatched.
Box looks to be in good condition, a quick peek in and everything has been foam wrapped very well and I cannot wait to get time later to see how the lacquered raw carbon finish looks.
It'll be a couple of weeks before I get the build done at least, but I hope to document everything as I go and will provide updates to anyone who may be interested.
This will be a pure road build with Ultegra 8170 and 45mm deep wheel set with 30mm GP5000s.
Looking forward to your build.
Congrats 🥳
-
Has anyone had a size 56 sent to them yet?
-
Couldn't resist ripping it all open to get a quick look - the raw carbon finish has exceeded my expectations, its beautiful!
Hard to photograph the effect, but took a few snaps to try and show it off.
The frame looks to be finished to a very high standard - and I love the little storage door!
One tiny point is the decals are on top of the lacquer, I would have preferred beneath for a lovely smooth finish and no chance of getting them damaged, but its only a small point.
Overall im delifghted and can't wait to get it built up.
(https://i.ibb.co/gbJD18Yt/IMG-1063-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vRjN1jW/IMG-1061-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ycsbr2mf/IMG-1065-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wZ4JSNSY/IMG-1060-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/m5LND9GD/IMG-1067-Large.jpg)
-
I'm trying to pick between the 56 and 58 frame size. My last fit put my saddle height a 805mm (with 175mm cranks). Jim at Lightcarbon has given me a seat post length of 380mm with a min insertion depth of 100mm (but 120mm preferred). This means:
Seat post: 260mm
Size 56: Seat tube C-T 518mm + 260mm = 778mm to 798mm (excluding saddle)
Size 58: Seat tube C-T 530mm + 260mm = 790mm to 810mm (excluding saddle)
I'd prefer the reach of a Size 56 but is this too much of a risk with the possibility of following the "smaller crank" trend?
-
Couldn't resist ripping it all open to get a quick look - the raw carbon finish has exceeded my expectations, its beautiful!
Hard to photograph the effect, but took a few snaps to try and show it off.
The frame looks to be finished to a very high standard - and I love the little storage door!
One tiny point is the decals are on top of the lacquer, I would have preferred beneath for a lovely smooth finish and no chance of getting them damaged, but its only a small point.
Overall im delifghted and can't wait to get it built up.
WOW WOW WOW
Many many thanks for the pictures! My frame will be just like yours, except without lettering, just that lovely plain raw laquered carbon finish! It looks really good, I'm very impressed... 8)
Can't wait for pictures of your build!
-
My frame (size 54 raw matte with white logo) is arrived in Europe. Few more days to wait.
I will take a lot of pictures and make a long review.
-
You guys must be from the first 54 size frame production batch. I hesitated a lot to order mine, I was also between sizes and made a lot of questions, and I ended up on the 3rd 52 frame size batch, so still a month to go for mine before shipping... :'(
-
For those of you that are going for a 1x transmission on this frameset like me, what do you plan to do regarding the pre-installed front derailleur hanger/mount:
1. Simply remove it and just tape the 2 remaining holes;
2. Remove it and use some kind of cover to hide the holes (something like the one Specialized has for the SL7 frame comes to mind, picture bellow, but it may be frame specific, idk);
3. Use it to install a chainguide/chaincatcher;
(https://www.ciclisport.com/images/products/2/20/2021-tarmac-sl7-pro-sram-force-etap-axs-1x_17984(1).jpg)
I asked Jim if there would be a cover for it, but unfortunately, nothing is planned. So it would be cool if someone found a suitable one and shared their experience here. Or maybe someone could print something suitable with their 3D printer?
-
Couldn't resist ripping it all open to get a quick look - the raw carbon finish has exceeded my expectations, its beautiful!
Hard to photograph the effect, but took a few snaps to try and show it off.
The frame looks to be finished to a very high standard - and I love the little storage door!
One tiny point is the decals are on top of the lacquer, I would have preferred beneath for a lovely smooth finish and no chance of getting them damaged, but its only a small point.
Overall im delifghted and can't wait to get it built up.
(https://i.ibb.co/gbJD18Yt/IMG-1063-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vRjN1jW/IMG-1061-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ycsbr2mf/IMG-1065-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wZ4JSNSY/IMG-1060-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/m5LND9GD/IMG-1067-Large.jpg)
Is your clear coat tinted or completely transparent? I ordered mine in raw carbon matte with black decals. 😀
-
I asked Jim if there would be a cover for it, but unfortunately, nothing is planned. So it would be cool if someone found a suitable one and shared their experience here. Or maybe someone could print something suitable with their 3D printer?
I'll test the cover for the Scott Foil RC MY23 frame (if I haven't lost it yet :-[) and report back...
-
Is your clear coat tinted or completely transparent? I ordered mine in raw carbon matte with black decals. 😀
Just checked the exact wording on the order confirmation and it’s called “raw carbon glossy”.
So basically same as yours except gloss instead of matt lacquer.
-
Couldn't resist ripping it all open to get a quick look - the raw carbon finish has exceeded my expectations, its beautiful!
Hard to photograph the effect, but took a few snaps to try and show it off.
The frame looks to be finished to a very high standard - and I love the little storage door!
One tiny point is the decals are on top of the lacquer, I would have preferred beneath for a lovely smooth finish and no chance of getting them damaged, but its only a small point.
Overall im delifghted and can't wait to get it built up.
(https://i.ibb.co/gbJD18Yt/IMG-1063-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vRjN1jW/IMG-1061-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ycsbr2mf/IMG-1065-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wZ4JSNSY/IMG-1060-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/m5LND9GD/IMG-1067-Large.jpg)
What's going on here? Is it as uneven and crooked in real life as it looks in the picture?
-
What's going on here? Is it as uneven and crooked in real life as it looks in the picture?
I think (or hope!) it’s an optical illusion caused by reflections.
I don’t remember seeing anything untoward when I checked - although it was a very Quick Look.
I’ll double check tomorrow as I’m away tonight - will try to take another photo to confirm.
-
Has anyone had a size 56 sent to them yet?
My understanding is the end of October for production of size 56CM production, because they received so many orders. BTW my order was placed early enough to qualify for the free storage bag. I would assume that volume buyers come first - they bring in the revenue that pays for the molds. And so I suspect that commercial purchases are getting the earlier October production. Which seems fair enough, even though I'm anxious to get my frame.
-
I’ve ordered a 58 in early September and got the lead time of End of October for the painted frame, including the free Storage bag. Really looking forward - all other parts are sitting and waiting 🤯
-
Since some of us went with the Chrome/Black color and were curious about how it might turn out, I found a few pics of a different bike frame to give an idea.
Seka Chrome is more darker? So difficult to see
-
Since some of us went with the Chrome/Black color and were curious about how it might turn out, I found a few pics of a different bike frame to give an idea.
Seka Chrome is more darker? So difficult to see
Thats correct the seka spear has a more greyish chrome colour whereas LC is more traditional silver-chrome. The only have silver and blue chrome available as far as i know.
Here are more real world pics of the colour scheme.
(http://)
-
@bsharp77 Great pics, thanks for posting. It's a beauty!
I wanted the mirror/laser decal but I felt like the "LightCarbon" was a bit too in your face on the LCRO17-D frame, (referencing Hambini's video). However, it looks like the LCRO18-D is much more suited for this type of decal with its deeper tubes and aggressive lines , i think im going to go for it as well!
-
I was hoping to get the laser logo also but was told by Wendy it was out of stock and would cost an additional 300usd. Anyone else been told similar?
-
Just heard back from Carol regarding the computer mount as I enquired about the titanium one and if there will be a shorter one.
The titanium one is a bit shorter, which is better for my small Garmin.
She said it will cost $35 - I'd love to order one.
Its in development and have just emailed back to see when it would be ready to order.
Photo from Carol:
(https://i.ibb.co/35QbwKbj/mount.png)
-
For those of you that already got the frame, does it come with any kind of chainstay protection, even a minimalistic one like clear tape?
Thanks.
-
I was hoping to get the laser logo also but was told by Wendy it was out of stock and would cost an additional 300usd. Anyone else been told similar?
I might've totally misinterpreted what i was told but from what I understood was if they have the "Light Carbon" laser logo in stock, there is no extra cost however if you're looking for a customized laser logo then its a $300-400 USD cost for the sheet. @bsharp77 was there an extra cost for you?
-
I might've totally misinterpreted what i was told but from what I understood was if they have the "Light Carbon" laser logo in stock, there is no extra cost however if you're looking for a customized laser logo then its a $300-400 USD cost for the sheet. @bsharp77 was there an extra cost for you?
For the decals, I recommend running a price simulation with Speed Decals here in Italy. I’ve already had stickers made with them and the quality is excellent. If I’m not mistaken, Patrik Lino on YouTube has also worked with them.
https://speedydecal.com/index.php
-
I might've totally misinterpreted what i was told but from what I understood was if they have the "Light Carbon" laser logo in stock, there is no extra cost however if you're looking for a customized laser logo then its a $300-400 USD cost for the sheet. @bsharp77 was there an extra cost for you?
Yes the whole decal end of things is a little strange.
I wasn’t sure about the laser silver at first and asked if they would have a gold rainbow metallic available. I was told they had a special gold chameleon but it cost $350 per sheet.
I quickly said no to that and went with the laser silver which was $35. Carol said it had been out of stock for a long time and only just available again.
I don’t really understand why they are so dear - nothing overly special I can see with them.
As mentioned already, Speedydecal do some amazing finishes so if you have custom requirements, I can fully recommend as I’ve used them before for both frame and wheel decals.
Saying all that I’m more than happy with how the laser silver turned out and even the decal design itself seems to have been thickened in comparison to older framesets and it really does match the frames aesthetic really well.
-
I was hoping to get the laser logo also but was told by Wendy it was out of stock and would cost an additional 300usd. Anyone else been told similar?
yes she told me the same 300usd. Kind of need to do mould if I remember well..
-
The prices mentioned (around 300 USD) really seem very expensive for a decal. Normally this service is done with a vinyl cutting machine. Some of them are huge: you load the material you want, send the artwork from the computer, and the machine cuts it. But there are several ways to reuse or optimize the sheet so that it’s not necessary to pay the price of a large sheet for just a small decal.
-
Yes that price for "just" a decal is pretty steep, but I was told most of that cost goes to additional steps required with frame prep and applying, so basically most of that price goes to labor. That kinda make sense to me.
So I chose just black paint and will source decals and apply them myself.
And if anyone is interested, Jim from LightCarbon was kind enough (thanks to him for amazing support) to send me vector files of their logo (I hope it is ok to post it here).
PS: I also modified one file to have round corners (for vinyl decals it is good to have them, sometimes sharp corners can get caught by rug while cleaning and then peel of a bit)
PPS: Vector files are in 1:1 ratio and logo is 40x350mm
-
What's going on here? Is it as uneven and crooked in real life as it looks in the picture?
What was the result? What does the finish look like in real life? Is it a straight, neat edge?
-
What was the result? What does the finish look like in real life? Is it a straight, neat edge?
All is perfect - just an optical illusion with the carbon layup.
I’ll try and get a photo posted later this evening, sorry haven’t had a chance as yet.
-
I received my frame. Long review to come this week end but in short : I am very amazed with the quality finish of the frame (inside / outside).
NB : I have not ridden it yet. I am looking forward to test it with my lovely Tagoola wheels.
-
Had a small start at the build tonight.
All going well - the rear brake cable was easy to install using a ZTTO internal guide tool, plus the storage opening made things even easier - especially when routing the foam liner down over the cable.
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16. I might get some black oxide versions from Aire Velo bearings next time around.
First disc build for me so interesting to see the little spacer that sits on top of the top headset bearing - very neat and allows easy routing of cables through.
Rubber di2 battery holder is a lovely addition - shaped perfectly for the seatpost and gives a very neat finish.
Next up is to plonk the bars on and try and figure out a stack height so I can cut the steerer and get the bars on there.
Some photos attached for reference including a clearer view of the storage area which caused a bit of concern in my last photo due to an optical illusion from the raw carbon finish - needless to say, all is perfect.
(https://i.ibb.co/tT2SfynK/IMG-1101-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LXp952NF/IMG-1102-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/cSD23Fvk/IMG-1105-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/HDghQwyL/IMG-1109-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/XkMpkJtB/IMG-1111-Large.jpg)
-
I received my frame. Long review to come this week end but in short : I am very amazed with the quality finish of the frame (inside / outside).
NB : I have not ridden it yet. I am looking forward to test it with my lovely Tagoola wheels.
Looking great, is that matt raw carbon on your frame? Also, what will be your inner rim dimension and tire combo?
-
Had a small start at the build tonight.
All going well - the rear brake cable was easy to install using a ZTTO internal guide tool, plus the storage opening made things even easier - especially when routing the foam liner down over the cable.
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16. I might get some black oxide versions from Aire Velo bearings next time around.
First disc build for me so interesting to see the little spacer that sits on top of the top headset bearing - very neat and allows easy routing of cables through.
Rubber di2 battery holder is a lovely addition - shaped perfectly for the seatpost and gives a very neat finish.
Next up is to plonk the bars on and try and figure out a stack height so I can cut the steerer and get the bars on there.
Some photos attached for reference including a clearer view of the storage area which caused a bit of concern in my last photo due to an optical illusion from the raw carbon finish - needless to say, all is perfect.
(https://i.ibb.co/HDghQwyL/IMG-1109-Large.jpg)
I’m currently trying to decide whether to order the frame with or without the storage compartment. Would it be possible for you to measure the storage box so I can check if my electronic mini pump would fit? Its dimensions are 70 × 57 × 31 mm and is there a rubber cover for the seatpost to protect from moisture? Thanks!
-
For those of you that already got the frame, does it come with any kind of chainstay protection, even a minimalistic one like clear tape?
Thanks.
@bsharp77 and BeR (or any other who already got the frame), can you answer my question above?
From the pictures I've seen so far, the chainstay doesn't seem to come with any kind of protection, but still I'd like confirmation from any of you guys, thanks!
-
No - ive never had a frame come with any protection and not something ive never felt the need to add - but a pretty easy fix if it bothers you.
-
Thanks! In my case I'll just add a clear tape chainstay protector then...
-
humpty_dumpty11: Is that even an option to chose frame with or without internal storage?
-
KRoser, yes, somewhere in the first pages of this topic there's reference to that option (when someone stated that LC was accepting orders). But that was for the first production batch. Not sure of it's still valid right now, better check that with someone at LC...
-
RiP: Thanks, I will check with LC.
Iam kinda lost with that internal storage option. I really like that internal storage, I dont mind the look, but I was kind of worried it will have impact on frame stiffness and how seal that door is, if it is not just another point for creaks and failure.
Can some of you lucky guys who already have a frame post photos of that storage door from inside. How seal it is, is there some rubber around, does it fit in frame snugly and does not rattle?
Thanks.
-
@bsharp77 and BeR (or any other who already got the frame), can you answer my question above?
From the pictures I've seen so far, the chainstay doesn't seem to come with any kind of protection, but still I'd like confirmation from any of you guys, thanks!
No.
-
So my frame arrived yesterday and I am thoroughly impressed with the quality and delivery, even though the package looked beaten up and had a hole punched in while travelling around half the globe the contents of the package were in pristine condition.
I cannot wait to start building now.
Just a question for the guys that already got their frame: how hard was it to open the storage compartment? Either I am too stupid, or it requires a lot of strength on my individual frame. So far I was too scared to go hard on the lever. Inspection from the inside with an endoscope showed no abnormalities just maybe the screw is locked too tight. Carbon layout looks marvellous. Also, there is some kind of rubber buffer to prevent it from rattling I think.
-
Has anyone been able to try the bike yet? How does it feel on the road?
-
Has anyone been able to try the bike yet? How does it feel on the road?
Not yet, on Saturday.
-
Has anyone been able to try the bike yet? How does it feel on the road?
some pages back:
Finished the build, had my first ride today!
Great ride feel. Very soft feel, especially with those 35C tires. But the frame, maybe the special seat-post takes meaningful amount of road vibration and bumps. On the other hand, it feels also stiff when putting in a little power.
Even though I reused my 105 DI2 it has the New Bike Feel. Very agile with that short handlebar (80mm). Handlebar is a little to narrow in the end, If I could, I would probably go wider (38cm -> 40cm), as my previous HB had all flare, but this has none. Anyways, that's more Aero, right?! 8)
For building up, my key learnings:
- Make sure that you have the right BB and the right tool for the BB, as I already wrote before I made mistake here. Also there seems to be a couple of different diameters, numbers of notches etc. for T47 BB tools.
Fork cutting - I would say this is the most risky situation, as you need to cut with an angle AND - according to the one page manual from LC - "make sure there is a gap of 4-5mm between the top of the stem and the expander plug". Even the usual tools on Alix are only useful for cutting 90º - I build a contraption with miter box + angle to get it into the right direction but used a jigsay in the end anyways. The cut is not particular bad, but not beautiful either - If more experienced builders can share their process here, that will probably be helpful You probably have to cut 90º - I didn't read the "manual" very carefully. Check next post.- Besides cabling the nasty brake hoses through handlebar + frame there were no other major obstacles.
- No sounds from the frame, even putting in 1kW, no squeaks etc. - BUT only the rattling of the rear brake hose in the frame when moving vertically with the bike - As some of you mentioned: having a liner may help here. I tried tape, but ofc the hose will move inside the frame when you turn the handlebar and the tape will cut loose
(https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig.png?cache=3604) (https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig)
-
So my frame arrived yesterday and I am thoroughly impressed with the quality and delivery, even though the package looked beaten up and had a hole punched in while travelling around half the globe the contents of the package were in pristine condition.
I cannot wait to start building now.
Just a question for the guys that already got their frame: how hard was it to open the storage compartment? Either I am too stupid, or it requires a lot of strength on my individual frame. So far I was too scared to go hard on the lever. Inspection from the inside with an endoscope showed no abnormalities just maybe the screw is locked too tight. Carbon layout looks marvellous. Also, there is some kind of rubber buffer to prevent it from rattling I think.
Congrats! Pics!!
-
What sort or build weights are people getting? I saw the size 52 with 105 Di2 and 1300g wheels was at 8.4kg, slightly concerned that a size 58 is going to be heavy.
-
What sort or build weights are people getting? I saw the size 52 with 105 Di2 and 1300g wheels was at 8.4kg, slightly concerned that a size 58 is going to be heavy.
You have to compare apples to apples. The overall weight of 8.5kg included pedals, lights, computer mounts, etc.
I would argue you can find build at 6.9kg if you just weigh the bare minimal. The frame is around 1kg, so it should not be much heavier than your usual build.
-
That build is not really lightweight.
For example I’m going to shave about 500g on the groupset (force e1 42T to XX1 52-10).
If you take the new Aethos at 5.98 and just Switch Frame & Forks you’ll end up at 6.6-6.8
-
Had a small start at the build tonight.
All going well - the rear brake cable was easy to install using a ZTTO internal guide tool, plus the storage opening made things even easier - especially when routing the foam liner down over the cable.
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16. I might get some black oxide versions from Aire Velo bearings next time around.
First disc build for me so interesting to see the little spacer that sits on top of the top headset bearing - very neat and allows easy routing of cables through.
Rubber di2 battery holder is a lovely addition - shaped perfectly for the seatpost and gives a very neat finish.
Next up is to plonk the bars on and try and figure out a stack height so I can cut the steerer and get the bars on there.
Some photos attached for reference including a clearer view of the storage area which caused a bit of concern in my last photo due to an optical illusion from the raw carbon finish - needless to say, all is perfect.
(https://i.ibb.co/tT2SfynK/IMG-1101-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LXp952NF/IMG-1102-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/cSD23Fvk/IMG-1105-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/HDghQwyL/IMG-1109-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/XkMpkJtB/IMG-1111-Large.jpg)
Thank you so much for this detailed information, this is really gold for me, as my first build. Why did you cut the foam line? it does not go through from the handlebar to the chainstay? I saw someone make the foam line goes up to the handlebars.
-
That build is not really lightweight.
For example I’m going to shave about 500g on the groupset (force e1 42T to XX1 52-10).
If you take the new Aethos at 5.98 and just Switch Frame & Forks you’ll end up at 6.6-6.8
Sorry, yes the foam goes all the way down to the rear chain stay and all the way up to where it meets the fork.
I just took a photo halfway through routing it down through the frame to show how easy the storage hole made it to route everything through!
-
Finished the build, had my first ride today!
Great ride feel. Very soft feel, especially with those 35C tires. But the frame, maybe the special seat-post takes meaningful amount of road vibration and bumps. On the other hand, it feels also stiff when putting in a little power.
Even though I reused my 105 DI2 it has the New Bike Feel. Very agile with that short handlebar (80mm). Handlebar is a little to narrow in the end, If I could, I would probably go wider (38cm -> 40cm), as my previous HB had all flare, but this has none. Anyways, that's more Aero, right?! 8)
For building up, my key learnings:
- Make sure that you have the right BB and the right tool for the BB, as I already wrote before I made mistake here. Also there seems to be a couple of different diameters, numbers of notches etc. for T47 BB tools.
Fork cutting - I would say this is the most risky situation, as you need to cut with an angle AND - according to the one page manual from LC - "make sure there is a gap of 4-5mm between the top of the stem and the expander plug". Even the usual tools on Alix are only useful for cutting 90º - I build a contraption with miter box + angle to get it into the right direction but used a jigsay in the end anyways. The cut is not particular bad, but not beautiful either - If more experienced builders can share their process here, that will probably be helpful You probably have to cut 90º - I didn't read the "manual" very carefully. Check next post.- Besides cabling the nasty brake hoses through handlebar + frame there were no other major obstacles.
- No sounds from the frame, even putting in 1kW, no squeaks etc. - BUT only the rattling of the rear brake hose in the frame when moving vertically with the bike - As some of you mentioned: having a liner may help here. I tried tape, but ofc the hose will move inside the frame when you turn the handlebar and the tape will cut loose
(https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig.png?cache=3604) (https://mybike.parts/b/DQ3fRjLl3dJXPsXmJVZTig)
Would you mind to share your actual saddle height and/or your inseam.
I am thinking about ordering that Frame in size 52.
would‘ve saddle height 710. and wonder about the vertical difference to the handlebar.
-
Build is finished. Everything was smooth. I find that the wheels' logo match so good with the frame's logo.
Long review next week if I can ride it.
7,5 kg with heavy pedals.
-
Build is finished. Everything was smooth. I find that the wheels' logo match so good with the frame's logo.
Long review next week if I can ride it.
7,5 kg with heavy pedals.
Congrats! Very nice result, great looking bike! 8)
Can you tell me your saddle height and stem length?
-
Build is finished. Everything was smooth. I find that the wheels' logo match so good with the frame's logo.
Long review next week if I can ride it.
7,5 kg with heavy pedals.
Pretty much the same build I'm going for ! Looks really good ! Would you mind detailing the price of the overall build ?
-
Congrats! Very nice result, great looking bike! 8)
Can you tell me your saddle height and stem length?
74,5 cm and 110 mm.
-
Pretty much the same build I'm going for ! Looks really good ! Would you mind detailing the price of the overall build ?
Next week :).
-
Build is finished. Everything was smooth. I find that the wheels' logo match so good with the frame's logo.
Long review next week if I can ride it.
7,5 kg with heavy pedals.
Nice! When you have time, can you post a pic of your 30mm tires between the fork and the chainstays please? want to see how they look with "skinnier" tires. Thanks!
-
Nice! When you have time, can you post a pic of your 30mm tires between the fork and the chainstays please? want to see how they look with "skinnier" tires. Thanks!
-
BeR: Congrats, looks awesome, you cant go wrong with simple black and white, timeless :). Start to dig that look of those handlebars more and more, cant wait for mine to arrive.
-
Thanks, Looks good!
-
Hi All
I was told by Wendy that the brake caliber surfaces are faced.
Can anyone with the frame confirm this and post some pictures?
-
Hi All
I was told by Wendy that the brake caliber surfaces are faced.
Can anyone with the frame confirm this and post some pictures?
I confirm. It was so easy to align calipers (less than 2 minutes).
-
I confirm. It was so easy to align calipers (less than 2 minutes).
Good to hear
Thanks
-
Do you have an idea of the total time (on average) it takes for the frame to arrive in Europe after the order is placed and confirmed? I’m planning to build a bike like this to ride the Strade Bianche Granfondo next year on March 8th. I’m currently deciding between size 50 or 52.
-
Do you have an idea of the total time (on average) it takes for the frame to arrive in Europe after the order is placed and confirmed? I’m planning to build a bike like this to ride the Strade Bianche Granfondo next year on March 8th. I’m currently deciding between size 50 or 52.
Delivery time is about 14 days to Europe (12d for me). Production time - Depending on the frame sizes, I think they are producing all the batches now? Not all sizes are produced, yet I think. Better to ask them directly via the various email contacts directly.
-
Do you have an idea of the total time (on average) it takes for the frame to arrive in Europe after the order is placed and confirmed? I’m planning to build a bike like this to ride the Strade Bianche Granfondo next year on March 8th. I’m currently deciding between size 50 or 52.
It mainly depends if the size you choose is in stock or if you have to wait for another production batch for your chosen size. I can give you my example, I placed an order for a 52 size in mid September, at the time that size was out of stock and the next production batch for that size is due to be ready next week. Then, after finishing the frame to my specs, it will take about 2 weeks to deliver in Europe, as stated...
-
It mainly depends if the size you choose is in stock or if you have to wait for another production batch for your chosen size. I can give you my example, I placed an order for a 52 size in mid September, at the time that size was out of stock and the next production batch for that size is due to be ready next week. Then, after finishing the frame to my specs, it will take about 2 weeks to deliver in Europe, as stated...
Thanks! I will start the communication with then...
-
As this thread gets longer and longer there are many questions that come over and over again.
I made a AI-summary based on the full content.
Hope that is helpful. If you consider it spammy, than I will also delete it, but it's hard to navigate 34 pages already, and also hard to link back to the answers :)
Pros
- High-quality carbon finish and construction
- Competitive pricing ($625–$650 for frameset)
- Comfortable endurance geometry with balanced stack and reach
- Aero design with integrated handlebar and optional storage
- Tire clearance up to 38C for versatility
- Responsive and helpful customer support
- Lightweight (~1000 g for size 52)
- UDH-compatible for modern drivetrains
- Custom paint and decal options available
- Smooth internal cable routing and easy storage access
- Well-finished seatpost and headset
Cons
- Long lead times (some sizes delayed until late 2025)
- Limited clearance for wider gravel tires (>38C)
- Initial confusion around UDH and chainring compatibility
- No fender or rack mounts
- Custom paint options can be expensive ($200+)
- Steerer cutting requires care due to integrated cockpit
- Polarizing seatstay design ("eye of the wind")
- Larger sizes (58 cm) have longer wait times
- No chainstay protector included by default
Key Specs
- Price: $625–$650 (frame, fork, seatpost, handlebar, headset, thru-axles)
- Weight: Frame ~1000 g (size 52), fork ~430 g, total ~2.1 kg
- Material: Carbon fiber (UD matte or glossy)
- Tire Clearance: Max 38C (40 mm tight fit reported)
- Geometry: Endurance-focused (similar to Enve Fray / Cervelo Caledonia)
- Standards: T47 BB, UDH hanger, 12×100/142 mm thru-axles
- Storage: Optional downtube compartment (+ bag free for early orders)
- Handlebar: HBR17 (80–130 mm stem, 360–420 mm width)
- Seatpost: 0 mm or 15 mm offset
- Max Chainring: 54T SRAM / 42T Shimano (1×), 56/43 SRAM / 54/40 Shimano (2×)
FAQs
Q: What is the delivery time for the LCR018-D?
A: 52 cm available from August 2025, 54/56 cm from September, 58 cm from October–December 2025.
Custom paint adds 2–4 weeks. Shipping to Europe/US takes 2–3 weeks.
References: #80770 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg80770.html#msg80770), #82579 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg82579.html#msg82579), #84147 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84147.html#msg84147), #89735 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg89735.html#msg89735), #94428 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg94428.html#msg94428)
Q: What is the maximum tire clearance?
A: Officially 38C, but some users report fitting 40 mm tires (e.g., Wolfpack Gravel Superspeed) with tight clearance. Actual fit depends on rim width and tire brand.
References: #86577 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg86577.html#msg86577), #88166 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg88166.html#msg88166), #90644 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg90644.html#msg90644), #93865 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93865.html#msg93865), #93972 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93972.html#msg93972)
Q: Is the frame UDH compatible?
A: Yes, it uses a "mini UDH" hanger that is lighter but functionally identical to standard UDH. Standard UDH hangers can also be installed.
References: #86137 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg86137.html#msg86137), #89638 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg89638.html#msg89638), #93324 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93324.html#msg93324), #94270 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg94270.html#msg94270)
Q: What is the maximum chainring size for 1x setups?
A: SRAM up to 54T (45 mm chainline). Shimano up to 42T. Larger chainrings require chainline adjustments.
References: #87210 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg87210.html#msg87210), #88339 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg88339.html#msg88339), #88440 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg88440.html#msg88440), #89637 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg89637.html#msg89637)
Q: Does the frame have internal storage?
A: Yes, an optional downtube storage compartment is available, free for early orders (includes storage bag).
References: #80788 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg80788.html#msg80788), #84475 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84475.html#msg84475), #84625 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84625.html#msg84625), #84664 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84664.html#msg84664)
Q: What bottom bracket standard does it use?
A: T47 (85.5 mm shell width), compatible with Shimano 24 mm, SRAM DUB, and other cranksets with adapters.
References: #90220 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg90220.html#msg90220), #93826 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93826.html#msg93826), #93845 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93845.html#msg93845), #93934 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93934.html#msg93934)
Q: What handlebar options are available?
A: Integrated HBR17 handlebar with stem lengths from 80–130 mm and widths from 360–420 mm. Rise is 8 mm, reach is short for a modern fit.
References: #84621 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84621.html#msg84621), #86835 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg86835.html#msg86835), #91712 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg91712.html#msg91712), #93808 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93808.html#msg93808)
Q: Is custom paint available?
A: Yes, custom paint jobs start around $120 for simple designs and go up to $200+ for complex schemes (e.g., Eurobike demo). Decals cost extra.
References: #82643 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg82643.html#msg82643), #90228 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg90228.html#msg90228), #91263 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg91263.html#msg91263), #94467 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg94467.html#msg94467)
Q: What is the frame weight?
A: Approximately 1000 g for size 52 (without storage door), fork ~430 g, handlebar ~300 g (380×80 mm). Total frameset around 2.1 kg.
References: #92694 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg92694.html#msg92694), #93422 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93422.html#msg93422), #93480 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg93480.html#msg93480), #94746 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg94746.html#msg94746)
Q: How does the geometry compare to other bikes?
A: Similar to Enve Fray, Cervelo Caledonia, Canyon Endurace, and BMC Roadmachine — endurance-focused with higher stack and moderate reach.
References: #80878 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg80878.html#msg80878), #84320 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg84320.html#msg84320), #86818 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg86818.html#msg86818), #89513 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg89513.html#msg89513)
-
The BB shell width according to the catalogue is 85.5mm instead of the 86.5 stated in the previous post.
-
The BB shell width according to the catalogue is 85.5mm instead of the 86.5 stated in the previous post.
Thanks, I updated the summary.
-
Funny thing, even the stated source states 85.5 - never trust ai
-
This is the first part of my review because I haven't used it yet.
1) Before ordering
Light Carbon answered all my questions via WhatsApp very quickly. Their communication is very good.
2) Shipping time
Since the frame was at the beginning of production, I placed the order on August 25th. The frame was shipped on September 28th and I received it on October 15th. No tracking information until October 13th, when it arrived in Europe. This is completely normal for this type of shipment.
3) Box
The box is very good quality and solid, and the frame was very well packaged.
4) Frame quality
The frame is simply magnificent:
Raw matte carbon color without any flaws. I love to see all the different lay-up.
Bottom bracket very easy to screw in by hand. Everything is well aligned (calipers and bottom bracket shell).
It only took me 2 minutes to align the discs.
The inside of the frame is perfect, without any defects.
The bearings fit perfectly into the frame.
The bottle cage screws have threadlocker on them.
The handlebar seems very stiff.
Honestly, this is by far the best frame finish I have ever seen.
I repeat, I have not used it yet.
5) The build
Everything was so smooth. No problem at all.
6) Negative point
The only negative point concerns the saddle rail clamp. The clamping screw is very close to the seatpost, and if you don't have a very thin socket, it's not possible to tighten it. I would have liked the screw to be more off-center.
7) Conclusion
I strongly recommend this frame because it looks truly exceptional. I'm really looking forward to testing it to confirm this good impression.
I will definitely do a Part 2.
-
More pictures.
-
Thanks for the review.
Is your frame weight with the storage door?
-
Thanks for the review.
Is your frame weight with the storage door?
I did not choose the one with storage box.
-
Funny thing, even the stated source states 85.5 - never trust ai
So, what is it really? 85.5 or 86.5?
I have already bought a SRAM dub 85.5 😬
-
Pictures from inside. If you are not happy with the quality of the pictures, you can offer me a better camera 😁.
-
So, what is it really? 85.5 or 86.5?
I have already bought a SRAM dub 85.5 😬
T47-85.5 (T47i)
Anyways, for my bottom bracket it didn't matter, the internal pipe is flexible.
I also found this quote on Ican's good explaination of T47:
T47-85.5 (T47i): "This standard is exclusive to Trek. In most cases, it is interchangeable with T47-86." Sounds reasonable, The difference is just 1 single millimeter.
-
Yes, as stated above, the 85.5mm inboard/internal T47i BB is exclusive to Trek, but I've never seen a thirdparty BB from any brand that's exclusive to that format. The 1mm difference is easily addressed and several BB I've seen for T47 inboard/internal are adaptable to various widths, some, like Token's models, fit 85.5, 86.5 and 91.5mm.
-
Question for those who received their frame : has anyone ordered the T47 85.5 BB that Lightcarbon offers for an extra 15$USD ?
I did (haven't received my frame yet) and was wondering how's the perceived quality/weight of said BB. Not sure if I should keep it as a spare and source a higher quality BB or not.
-
Question for those who received their frame : has anyone ordered the T47 85.5 BB that Lightcarbon offers for an extra 15$USD ?
I did (haven't received my frame yet) and was wondering how's the perceived quality/weight of said BB. Not sure if I should keep it as a spare and source a higher quality BB or not.
I have ordered it (picture). I am not expert of BB but is fine to me.
-
So, what is it really? 85.5 or 86.5?
I have already bought a SRAM dub 85.5 😬
No worries - as far as I know, SRAM only offers the 85.5 because the plastic shell inside has some room.
You dont even need to use the plastic shell inside (but its very usefull to do because of the internal cables) - but for functionality, there is no need for the plastic shell, thus the width is set by the frame, not by the bb :)
-
I’m a bit disappointed with how things are going. It’s been over two weeks that I’ve been trying to order the frame, but I still haven’t managed to actually get it done. There’s no consistent communication by email with Lightcarbon, I get a reply every three days, and only when I follow up first. It’s really frustrating. Has anyone else experienced something like this?
-
My contact with LC was done exclusively on Whatsapp, great experience with the order process so far, always fast to respond and clear answers...
-
I’m a bit disappointed with how things are going. It’s been over two weeks that I’ve been trying to order the frame, but I still haven’t managed to actually get it done. There’s no consistent communication by email with Lightcarbon, I get a reply every three days, and only when I follow up first. It’s really frustrating. Has anyone else experienced something like this?
It seems fairly variable. I asked very straightforward questions and got quick replies when ordering my LCR017. A friend is ordering a LCR018 and seems to have had more trouble, but she has faffed more about options and deciding on the paintwork. After I'd ordered I got pictures after the frame had been painted to check I was happy and a despatch email the day after the frame actually arrived.
-
I’m a bit disappointed with how things are going. It’s been over two weeks that I’ve been trying to order the frame, but I still haven’t managed to actually get it done. There’s no consistent communication by email with Lightcarbon, I get a reply every three days, and only when I follow up first. It’s really frustrating. Has anyone else experienced something like this?
Use their WhatsApp. They are very responsive through this channel.
-
I´ve wrote about 30 Mails with Wendy - usually she answered within a business day. Sometimes she was a bit fast on replying and things got lost/ mixed up but in the end I am very happy with the result (well, lets see what they do :D). Had some special requests about the painting design, decals , drillings etc.
-
I was communicating with another sale person Chloe over email only. As long as email is sent during Hong Kong working hours I would get response the same day.
-
Question for those who received their frame : has anyone ordered the T47 85.5 BB that Lightcarbon offers for an extra 15$USD ?
I did (haven't received my frame yet) and was wondering how's the perceived quality/weight of said BB. Not sure if I should keep it as a spare and source a higher quality BB or not.
I did order theirs (GINEYEA Brand) and I am not impressed by the quality, since the inner drive side was slightly below the required diameter and thus rendered useless. I bought a SRAM Dub T47 (non wide) for approx. 45 EUR to use with my SRAM Force E1 Groupset. Just know, that you need to have the 52mm 16 Tooth nut to tighten the SRAM one, it took me another 2 days until I could finish my build because of that. Other than that, quality-wise the BB fits perfectly now, no complaints. I did two quick runs so far with the completed bike and I am quite happy. I like it better than my Canyon Inflite CF SL 6 which this is now the replacement for, after an accident with frame damage on the canyon.
I did however put in another order for the 0mm offset seat post and a spare UDH just for future shenanigans.
-
First small issue: during the last 2 rides at the exact same spot in my route over rough gravel when the bike shakes, the storage door sprang open and flew away... - No bottle with me each time.
The issue is, that through the rattling, the handle went down, and when the handle is down, it opens.
Fortunately, there seem to be no damage, as it is solid aluminum or metal.
Now, i found you can adjust the tension with a hex key. The tolerance is very exact, like a couple of degrees more or less makes a huge difference for the tension of the handle. I made it much tighter now and hopes that it fixes.
But I think it is not an optimal constructions - A better way would be to make the handle, so it opens when pulling up instead, or some kind of lock on the handle, like a spring, stop, button idk.
-
@zealot128 Thanks for posting. I really hope the extra torque should work. Getting cold feet on the storage after reading your post.
Question regarding the frame storage.
Would the frame possibly fit two storage bags? Similar to Enve Fray, which comes with two neoprene storage bags.
Will probably order a custom bag in Dyneema to save a few grams. Would be nice to fit two bags for extra storage.
-
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16.
[/quote] are the headset bearings included in the frame? Or you had to buy them?
-
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16.
are the headset bearings included in the frame? Or you had to buy them?
Included (pictures.)
-
My German video for the build-up and a quick review is online :)
https://youtu.be/jNzrg-W_oXQ
Learned something again with this build-up. BB was the biggest hurdle for me, because the specified 40Nm are impossible for me to apply with just that adapter + wrench, as this whole thing will slip much much sooner (maybe 15-20Nmish). Let's see if it will come loose, but for now there are no creaks and the carbon sound at 30kph is wonderful.
I did order theirs (GINEYEA Brand) and I am not impressed by the quality, since the inner drive side was slightly below the required diameter and thus rendered useless. I bought a SRAM Dub T47 (non wide) for approx. 45 EUR to use with my SRAM Force E1 Groupset. Just know, that you need to have the 52mm 16 Tooth nut to tighten the SRAM one, it took me another 2 days until I could finish my build because of that. Other than that, quality-wise the BB fits perfectly now, no complaints. I did two quick runs so far with the completed bike and I am quite happy. I like it better than my Canyon Inflite CF SL 6 which this is now the replacement for, after an accident with frame damage on the canyon.
I did however put in another order for the 0mm offset seat post and a spare UDH just for future shenanigans.
It's sad to hear the BB which you can order is crap, at least the SRAM one. Wendy did not suggest me that BB to buy, so I didn't thought about it, and regret it first when I read earlier in this thread that you can order one. But now, maybe that's a better way.
Too bad all T47 seem to have so many different adapter options and wrenches.
-
My German video for the build-up and a quick review is online :)
https://youtu.be/jNzrg-W_oXQ
Learned something again with this build-up. BB was the biggest hurdle for me, because the specified 40Nm are impossible for me to apply with just that adapter + wrench, as this whole thing will slip much much sooner (maybe 15-20Nmish). Let's see if it will come loose, but for now there are no creaks and the carbon sound at 30kph is wonderful
Is It normal that the bb slip like that at 15-20nmish? Is It due to the bb box? Btw, very helpfull video, lots of interesting insights.
-
My German video for the build-up and a quick review is online :)
https://youtu.be/jNzrg-W_oXQ
Learned something again with this build-up. BB was the biggest hurdle for me, because the specified 40Nm are impossible for me to apply with just that adapter + wrench, as this whole thing will slip much much sooner (maybe 15-20Nmish). Let's see if it will come loose, but for now there are no creaks and the carbon sound at 30kph is wonderful.
It's sad to hear the BB which you can order is crap, at least the SRAM one. Wendy did not suggest me that BB to buy, so I didn't thought about it, and regret it first when I read earlier in this thread that you can order one. But now, maybe that's a better way.
Too bad all T47 seem to have so many different adapter options and wrenches.
Thanks for a great video. I don’t speak German, but still found this a great source. I’m thinking of this for my next build.
-
Is It normal that the bb slip like that at 15-20nmish? Is It due to the bb box? Btw, very helpfull video, lots of interesting insights.
I bought the one supply by LC and I torqued it at 30 N.m (recommandation between 25-35 N.m) without any problem. I used those tools. It helps to avoid scratching the BB or the frame :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exn8jwu
-
I bought the one supply by LC and I torqued it at 30 N.m (recommandation between 25-35 N.m) without any problem. I used those tools. It helps to avoid scratching the BB or the frame :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exn8jwu
To clarify, you bought the BB from LC and used one of the adapters at your link? Can you specify which one if so?
-
I bought the one supply by LC and I torqued it at 30 N.m (recommandation between 25-35 N.m) without any problem. I used those tools. It helps to avoid scratching the BB or the frame :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exn8jwu
Hi everyone, this is my first post—nice to meet you all!
I placed an order for a size 50 frame in mid-August. The frame should be finished this month, and LC is expected to paint it in the Euro2025 color scheme next month.
Regarding the bottom bracket, I also ordered the 24mm Shimano-compatible version from LC. Based on the image already uploaded in this thread, it appears to be the Gineyea T478624. Referring to the specs on the following website, I assumed a 49mm-16T tool would be required:http://www.gineyea.cc/show-37-769.html (http://www.gineyea.cc/show-37-769.html) (For some reason, I couldn’t find any T47 info on the English version of the site.)
However, I’m a bit confused because the HAPPE Bicycle T47 BB Tool that Mr. BeR shared doesn’t seem to include a 49mm-16T compatible option. Does anyone know the actual outer diameter of the BB interface where the tool makes contact?
-
I used the socket and the tool in pictures.
The socket is 50 mm - 16T even if the BB is 49 mm (for the BB sold by LC). It fits perfectly.
I wonder why there are so many OD T47 design.
-
Thanks for the info! So it's 50mm-16T. I think I'll go ahead and buy the tool you recommended.
-
Has anyone heard when the size 56 frames are expected to start shipping?
-
Has anyone heard when the size 56 frames are expected to start shipping?
Not exactly, but Wendy told me the frame would be ready about 30–45 days after the order was confirmed. I ordered my 56 cm on September 20th,
so it should be ready sometime next week — though that might just be wishful thinking.
-
Not exactly, but Wendy told me the frame would be ready about 30–45 days after the order was confirmed. I ordered my 56 cm on September 20th,
so it should be ready sometime next week — though that might just be wishful thinking.
I ordered a size 56 around the same time and got a 1.5 months delivery date. A few days ago i asked LC for an update and they told me they had a big number of orders and that the manufacturing lead time will be longer than what i was told initially. No new estimation date given.
-
Like I said: wishfull thinking :). I'm not in a hurry, weather is getting worse every day, so i'll be heappy to ride it for the first time in spring 2026
-
I can't find the LCR018 on lightcarbons website? Is it because of long waiting times? If the frame is available,pls provide the link.
-
I can't find the LCR018 on lightcarbons website? Is it because of long waiting times? If the frame is available,pls provide the link.
Yes it's not on the website, I asked Wendy, she replied:
"Yeah, well update the LCR018-D on our website very soon once 54prod is complete"
You can find frame details etc. on the linked PDF in the first post of this thread.
-
I bought the one supply by LC and I torqued it at 30 N.m (recommandation between 25-35 N.m) without any problem. I used those tools. It helps to avoid scratching the BB or the frame :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Exn8jwu
Thanks, I also ordered the orange one (12T for Rotor).
Is It normal that the bb slip like that at 15-20nmish? Is It due to the bb box? Btw, very helpfull video, lots of interesting insights.
It's maybe a tool or (my) skill issue? The adapter i use with a wrench will slip. Maybe it's the adapter, I will try again with the orange one again once it's delivered. The surface area between BB & tool is just very very tiny, like a mm, so when wrenching I try to press hard onto the wrench to the frame, but nevertheless will slip, and almost scratch my frame at the BB area.
I used the adapter from "ALLT" which is all over Aliexpress or Amazon (where I bought it with a quick delivery window).
-
Thanks, I also ordered the orange one (12T for Rotor).
It's maybe a tool or (my) skill issue? The adapter i use with a wrench will slip. Maybe it's the adapter, I will try again with the orange one again once it's delivered. The surface area between BB & tool is just very very tiny, like a mm, so when wrenching I try to press hard onto the wrench to the frame, but nevertheless will slip, and almost scratch my frame at the BB area.
I used the adapter from "ALLT" which is all over Aliexpress or Amazon (where I bought it with a quick delivery window).
In your video (huge thanks for that btw), it seemed you tried tightening it while the bike frame was still in the stand if I remember correctly. I'd think it should be a lot easier to tighten if the bike is on the ground on its wheels. In the past I've also used rubber bands inbetween the interface of the BB and tool to aid grip and power transfer. However, these are indeed so small that it seemds difficult. Thanks again for all the extensive reporting!
-
Thanks, I also ordered the orange one (12T for Rotor).
It's maybe a tool or (my) skill issue? The adapter i use with a wrench will slip. Maybe it's the adapter, I will try again with the orange one again once it's delivered. The surface area between BB & tool is just very very tiny, like a mm, so when wrenching I try to press hard onto the wrench to the frame, but nevertheless will slip, and almost scratch my frame at the BB area.
I used the adapter from "ALLT" which is all over Aliexpress or Amazon (where I bought it with a quick delivery window).
The tool I used (link before) (long threaded rod with a flat thick plastic and a spring) lets you compress the socket against the frame firmly when you screw it. It is almost impossible to scratch anything.
-
I ordered my 56 cm on September 20th,
Can I ask for your height and inseam? I am 183 cm (6') tall with a ~81.5 cm (32") inseam, probably going to pull the trigger on the 56 cm as well but want a sanity check.
Thanks!
-
Finally an update, painting is finished and ready for shipment.
I had to change from the 400/100mm handlebar to 380/90mm, due to the ordered one is out of stock and would take another 2 weeks to make.
Also added the 15mm SB seat post for 50USD to my order, just to be a bit more flexible with the position and adjustment.
Here some screenshots from a video which Wendy send me.
-
Bender87, great looking frame! 8)
Is it a 52 size?
-
Bender87, great looking frame! 8)
Is it a 52 size?
Yes and i ordered it on 18th July.
So i took some more time, i think mostly due to the paintjob/colors and the Golden Week beginning of October postponed it a bit.
-
My 52 frame is supposed to be ready soon, but I guess it's from a different, later, production batch than yours...
-
Can I ask for your height and inseam? I am 183 cm (6') tall with a ~81.5 cm (32") inseam, probably going to pull the trigger on the 56 cm as well but want a sanity check.
Thanks!
181cm and 91cm inseam, long legs but shorter torso and arms. My current Kona Roadhouse is also a 56cm and has nearly the same geometry as the LC frame.
-
I'm coming from a 2018 Giant Defy in M/L and that has almost the same geometry as well, going to go with the 56. Money sent just now, wish me luck!
-
Finally an update, painting is finished and ready for shipment.
I had to change from the 400/100mm handlebar to 380/90mm, due to the ordered one is out of stock and would take another 2 weeks to make.
Also added the 15mm SB seat post for 50USD to my order, just to be a bit more flexible with the position and adjustment.
Here some screenshots from a video which Wendy send me.
did you choose to have the storage box cover in black color? Is It carbon?
-
did you choose to have the storage box cover in black color? Is It carbon?
I asked about the colour / paint on the cover, but it's quote "different material" which can not be painted.
It's not that big deal for me, maybe a cover it with some foil/wrap or something else.
-
Can I ask for your height and inseam? I am 183 cm (6') tall with a ~81.5 cm (32") inseam, probably going to pull the trigger on the 56 cm as well but want a sanity check.
Thanks!
I am 183cm with 82,5 inseam, so pretty mush the same.
imo it depends what you are aiming for with this frame.
I hast a good Feeling with size 54 at sl8, with 80-90 stem. So my approach is,
to get a comparable Position with the lcr018 I need size 52 or 54.
52 with longer stem+spacer
54 with comparable stem, no spacer
Best regards
-
Hey everyone,
I’m finalizing the last details and will soon place the order for frame #56. The lead time is around 1.5 months.
I really like the matte and glossy raw carbon finish from the catalog, so I’m leaning toward that look with a custom head tube decal.
(https://i.ibb.co/b5vh1vSL/Screenshot-2025-10-28-232434.png) (https://ibb.co/d4p9Bpd6)
For the build, I’m planning to go with an electronic 2x12 groupset and a carbon wheelset with at least a 23 mm internal width.
I’ll probably wait for Black Friday to find the best deals. One of the options I’m considering is the Scope R5.A wheelset (https://www.scopecycling.com/product/r5a/ (https://www.scopecycling.com/product/r5a/)
) — it’s currently on sale for €1048, as they’re phasing it out for a new version.
Still figuring out the final setup, so if you have any tips, recommendations, or want to share what you’re planning, I’d love to hear it!
-
I am 183cm with 82,5 inseam, so pretty mush the same.
imo it depends what you are aiming for with this frame.
I hast a good Feeling with size 54 at sl8, with 80-90 stem. So my approach is,
to get a comparable Position with the lcr018 I need size 52 or 54.
52 with longer stem+spacer
54 with comparable stem, no spacer
Appreciate the input! Comparing to the geometry of the 2018 Giant Defy M/L I'm coming from to the 56 R018, it's basically the same. See attached comparison chart. Because the reach is longer on the R018, I'm going with a shorter stem than my defy (100 mm vs 110 mm). I don't see a reason to go to a smaller frame size, but I'd love to hear more from your thinking.
-
Appreciate the input! Comparing to the geometry of the 2018 Giant Defy M/L I'm coming from to the 56 R018, it's basically the same. See attached comparison chart. Because the reach is longer on the R018, I'm going with a shorter stem than my defy (100 mm vs 110 mm). I don't see a reason to go to a smaller frame size, but I'd love to hear more from your thinking.
Looks very much the same. I would check the reach of your handelbar. If I get it right, its 70mm at hbr17 (shorter than average handlebar). So maybe the stem length should still be 110.
Vertical difference between handlebar and saddle will be very low. Even without spacer.
I guess your saddle height will be somewhere at 71cm.
If it should get a more aggressive Position, this differnce should increase.
Of course there will be somewhere slightly differences in geometry, but nothing which would make unrideable.
-
This has been a great thread. I've just placed my order for a size 52cm with custom added mounts ;D
Just incase anyone else likes the idea of attachment points on the frame, the LCR018-D frame is also available with threaded mounts on the top tube and the forks - just like the LCG071-PRO frame. For a long while I was torn between the two frames. I want to do the occaisional bit of bike packing so I wanted the mounts, but they were only available on the gravel frames.
I put the question to Wendy at Light Carbon and they are custom making this for me. Best of both worlds - endurance frame and mounting points. I'm super pleased and can't wait for delivery now. It'll probably add a few grams to the frame weight, but still be lighter that the 1.2kg of the LCG071-PRO frame.
-
Just got an update from Jim that my size 56 frame will be shipped next week, ordered on Aug 28.
-
Hey everyone,
I’m finalizing the last details and will soon place the order for frame #56. The lead time is around 1.5 months.
I really like the matte and glossy raw carbon finish from the catalog, so I’m leaning toward that look with a custom head tube decal.
For the build, I’m planning to go with an electronic 2x12 groupset and a carbon wheelset with at least a 23 mm internal width.
I’ll probably wait for Black Friday to find the best deals. One of the options I’m considering is the Scope R5.A wheelset (https://www.scopecycling.com/product/r5a/ (https://www.scopecycling.com/product/r5a/)
) — it’s currently on sale for €1048, as they’re phasing it out for a new version.
Still figuring out the final setup, so if you have any tips, recommendations, or want to share what you’re planning, I’d love to hear it!
I just ordered a size 47 with dark gray decals on matte raw carbon. I modified @BenR's picture to see how it would look.
Going to use XMCS D50CU-33 T1100 wheels and Sram Red/Force E1-mix.
-
This has been a great thread. I've just placed my order for a size 52cm with custom added mounts ;D
Just incase anyone else likes the idea of attachment points on the frame, the LCR018-D frame is also available with threaded mounts on the top tube and the forks - just like the LCG071-PRO frame. For a long while I was torn between the two frames. I want to do the occaisional bit of bike packing so I wanted the mounts, but they were only available on the gravel frames.
I put the question to Wendy at Light Carbon and they are custom making this for me. Best of both worlds - endurance frame and mounting points. I'm super pleased and can't wait for delivery now. It'll probably add a few grams to the frame weight, but still be lighter that the 1.2kg of the LCG071-PRO frame.
Ahhhh I didn't know custom mounts were an option - would definitely have put top tube threaded mounts on there to help integrate a storage solution for longer days.
Another big wish was for proper mudguard mounts - I wonder is this a possibility?
I will be starting to build mine up this weekend hopefully - I got a set of S-Parts rainbow titanium bolts for my 8170 groupset to add a bit of subtle colour highlights to the raw carbon frame, so to finish the job ive just received a matching top cap bolt, stem bolts and saddle clamp bolts.
I'm already blown away by the high quality finish of the frame, so I just can't wait to see how everything looks when its finished.
-
Looks very much the same. I would check the reach of your handelbar. If I get it right, its 70mm at hbr17 (shorter than average handlebar). So maybe the stem length should still be 110.
Vertical difference between handlebar and saddle will be very low. Even without spacer. I guess your saddle height will be somewhere at 71cm. If it should get a more aggressive Position, this differnce should increase. Of course there will be somewhere slightly differences in geometry, but nothing which would make unrideable.
Thank you for the suggestion. Amazingly, my current handlebars have a reach of 72 mm while the hbr17 have a 75 mm reach. So the proportions really are similar!
https://www.lightcarbon.com/ultra-light-and-aero-carbon-road-integrated-handlebar_p257.html
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/contact-sl-handlebar
-
This has been a great thread. I've just placed my order for a size 52cm with custom added mounts ;D
Just incase anyone else likes the idea of attachment points on the frame, the LCR018-D frame is also available with threaded mounts on the top tube and the forks - just like the LCG071-PRO frame. For a long while I was torn between the two frames. I want to do the occaisional bit of bike packing so I wanted the mounts, but they were only available on the gravel frames.
I put the question to Wendy at Light Carbon and they are custom making this for me. Best of both worlds - endurance frame and mounting points. I'm super pleased and can't wait for delivery now. It'll probably add a few grams to the frame weight, but still be lighter that the 1.2kg of the LCG071-PRO frame.
Whoa nice! Definitely wasn't an option when I initally asked for mount options for a bento box. May I ask how much it costs?
-
Whoa nice! Definitely wasn't an option when I initally asked for mount options for a bento box. May I ask how much it costs?
It was no additional cost which I thought was very nice! Indeed, the bento box mount is the most important for me. I hate the velcro strap on feed bags.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, but since my current road bike (cervelo r5) has some issues, I’ve changed my initial plan, I was thinking about turning my LCR018 into a more aero-performing oriented road bike, with the right groupset and wheels.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who already own this frame, or from those who know more than me about bike geometry and performance, to understand if the LCR018 can actually perform well as a race road bike.
Honestly, I’m a bit confused because I see many riders here in this forum using it more for kind of gravel setups and only few as AERO performing bike. Of course I understand I would never have a real AERO bike but how close it could be?
-
I've been working with Chloe at LC since last August and she's been delightful. She's professional, responsible, timely, & knowledgeable - a real gem.
Today she showed me pictures of my frame so I could approve the paint (see below). I didn't ask her for the actual ship date, in part because I was too excited to think abut that, but also because we're ahead of schedule. Originally the build was scheduled for end of September, but with the crush of orders this got changed to end of October. Plus two to four weeks for paint. So here we are at the end of October and paint is done (although I don't know if it's yet fully cured). :)
I chose a conservative scheme (inspired by a LCR017 on youTube) because I think it will better hold up to the inevitable battle scars in its future.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, but since my current road bike (cervelo r5) has some issues, I’ve changed my initial plan, I was thinking about turning my LCR018 into a more aero-performing oriented road bike, with the right groupset and wheels.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who already own this frame, or from those who know more than me about bike geometry and performance, to understand if the LCR018 can actually perform well as a race road bike.
Honestly, I’m a bit confused because I see many riders here in this forum using it more for kind of gravel setups and only few as AERO performing bike. Of course I understand I would never have a real AERO bike but how close it could be?
The geometry is fine. If you're fairly new to racing, the geo. won't matter too much anyway. I can't speak to the actual aero, that would require some scientific testing. But, your position on the bike is more important than the aero of the frame. Accordingly, bike fit is probably the most important component for your consideration
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, but since my current road bike (cervelo r5) has some issues, I’ve changed my initial plan, I was thinking about turning my LCR018 into a more aero-performing oriented road bike, with the right groupset and wheels.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who already own this frame, or from those who know more than me about bike geometry and performance, to understand if the LCR018 can actually perform well as a race road bike.
Honestly, I’m a bit confused because I see many riders here in this forum using it more for kind of gravel setups and only few as AERO performing bike. Of course I understand I would never have a real AERO bike but how close it could be?
The frame has an endurance geometry. Can it be used for road racing? Sure, it is a matter of preference.
I am planning to use the frame for fast paced group rides on road, and a few gran fondos per year. With Ultegra Di2, one wheelset for road, and one for allroad.
The geometry is similar to that of e.g. Fray, Caledonia, SIKA, ADHX, etc. You can find a lot of YouTube materials on these frames, and people’s opinions on the geometry.
I understand that some people plan to ride gravel with the frame, which probably works fine. But for me, a gravel bike needs to have clearance of at least 50 mm tires, YMMV.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, but since my current road bike (cervelo r5) has some issues, I’ve changed my initial plan, I was thinking about turning my LCR018 into a more aero-performing oriented road bike, with the right groupset and wheels.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who already own this frame, or from those who know more than me about bike geometry and performance, to understand if the LCR018 can actually perform well as a race road bike.
Honestly, I’m a bit confused because I see many riders here in this forum using it more for kind of gravel setups and only few as AERO performing bike. Of course I understand I would never have a real AERO bike but how close it could be?
I am Planning to use it as roadbike for grouprides and a few races in Summer and in spring autaumn with wider tyres for lightgravel. Frame not arrived yet.
If you are happy with the position at the r5, check if it is possible to get in a comprable position. For e.g. https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-52,cervelo-r5-2026-54/
Stack + rise of the handlebar has a difference of 1,5cm. If you got 1,5cm spacer at R5, lcr018 without spacer.
Frame reach is 7mm shorter, if handlebar reach is the same, stem slightly chosen longer.
Ofc there is more, but to get an idea, it may help.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, but since my current road bike (cervelo r5) has some issues, I’ve changed my initial plan, I was thinking about turning my LCR018 into a more aero-performing oriented road bike, with the right groupset and wheels.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from people who already own this frame, or from those who know more than me about bike geometry and performance, to understand if the LCR018 can actually perform well as a race road bike.
Honestly, I’m a bit confused because I see many riders here in this forum using it more for kind of gravel setups and only few as AERO performing bike. Of course I understand I would never have a real AERO bike but how close it could be?
If you compare the geometry of the LCR018 with an out-and-out race bike you can get an idea of where the differences may be. I did this comparing the 52cm LCR018 (which I have on order) with a Pinarello Dogma in size 53 (dimensions available on-line). Reach is 10mm shorter (15mm if you include the shorter reach of the LCR018's handlebars). The stack is 10mm heigher (18mm if you include the 'rise' on the handlebars of the LCR018). The seat tube angle is about 1.5 degree slacker. The head tube angle is 0.5 degrees slacker. The rake of the forks is 51mm on the LCR018 compared to 47mm on the Pinarello. I think the differences in geometry are subtle compared to a race bike, but of course I can't comment about farme stiffness without riding both.
I think it should perform just fine as a race bike if fitted with fast road tyres. It'll perform just fine as a gravel bike with gravel tyres. I've always thought the term 'aero bike' is a marketing idea as 95% of the system is the rider size, rider's position and clothing.
-
Hello everyone,
Based on the positive experiences, I've now also ordered size 56 in raw carbon matte.
I'm still not sure if the HBR17 cockpit will fit me. The HBR14 cockpit is no longer
manufactured and isn't available in my size (400/110).
Can you recommend a cockpit that matches the shape of the HBR14?
The SEKA Rapier looks good. I like the shape of the cockpit, but unfortunately
it's very expensive.
Thank you very much
-
Hi all,
Just checking if anyone will be getting a frame in the UK anytime soon and wouldn't mind doing me a favour?!
I want to order the titanium Garmin computer mount ($35), but delivery is $25 extra.
If someone wouldn't mind including one in their order and then posting it over to me (im in N.Ireland), I would cover all costs of course.
If you could be of help, just send me a message - I would be most grateful!
-
stupid question, where can i purchase this frame? on lightcarbon website only LCR17 is shown.
-
Contact them directly via Whatsapp, email, etc...
-
Hi all,
Just checking if anyone will be getting a frame in the UK anytime soon and wouldn't mind doing me a favour?!
I want to order the titanium Garmin computer mount ($35), but delivery is $25 extra.
If someone wouldn't mind including one in their order and then posting it over to me (im in N.Ireland), I would cover all costs of course.
If you could be of help, just send me a message - I would be most grateful!
Do you know whether the titanium is available in black? And if it also comes with a titanium GoPro mount?
I wonder if the mount will fit a Garmin 1040, considering it is approximately 1 cm shorter than the regular mount (according to previous posts). The 1040 needs approximately 60 mm from the center of the mounting point (towards the handlebars).
-
stupid question, where can i purchase this frame? on lightcarbon website only LCR17 is shown.
Look for the 2025 catalog on their site to get details on the LCR017
-
A bike with a rider on it will always go faster than one that's in the shed with no wheels.
Frame aerodynamics do matter, and it does matter if you go fast, like group rides at 40kmh on the flat. I can tell you that the wrong rig will cost you, and it's noticeable. Will a slow frame + tight clothing be faster than a fast one with loose clothing? Yes ofc, but that's not really the point.
From experience, the sum of marginal gains is everything but marginal. If you go fast.
Congratulations if you’ve found a bike that feels faster to you, we all love that feeling. And, I don’t mean to troll but I believe that your comments should be tempered with some empiricism.
How does one know what is an aerodynamic bike (by which we mean an aerodynamically efficient bike)?
It is proven that we can’t necessarily see aerodynamics. Many shapes which are proven aerodynamically efficient don’t look it and vice versa.
Aerodynamic testing of bikes has improved, but still provides only approximations of real world aerodynamics. Aerodynamic claims and advertising are generally general w/o reference to the key operating conditions of the claim. I have yet to see bicycling related aero claims based on, or promising, results on the full frame and/or rider size range.
Marketing often touts the benefits of deep profiles w/o considering that the leading edge is most critical and should be parabolic. Rim/tire profiles are hysterical: they represent only one small portion of the 360 degrees of the wheel presented to the wind.
Cross winds and controlling stall characteristics are critical to: 1) ensuring stability regardless of effective wind direction; 2) tend to guarantee shorter profiles which are less efficient than longer profiles.
Riding 40kph in a pack doesn’t depend so much on bike aero as it does pack aero. That’s why people ride in packs.
So it’s problematic for a rider w/o wind tunnel access to evaluate what is the most aero bike for themself. And accordingly, it’s usually a fools errand for an individual to try to select a new bike based on supposed aero efficiency.
Aero is great, but hard to find,
-
Congratulations if you’ve found a bike that feels faster to you, we all love that feeling. And, I don’t mean to troll but I believe that your comments should be tempered with some empiricism.
How does one know what is an aerodynamic bike (by which we mean an aerodynamically efficient bike)?
It is proven that we can’t necessarily see aerodynamics. Many shapes which are proven aerodynamically efficient don’t look it and vice versa.
Aerodynamic testing of bikes has improved, but still provides only approximations of real world aerodynamics. Aerodynamic claims and advertising are generally general w/o reference to the key operating conditions of the claim. I have yet to see bicycling related aero claims based on, or promising, results on the full frame and/or rider size range.
Marketing often touts the benefits of deep profiles w/o considering that the leading edge is most critical and should be parabolic. Rim/tire profiles are hysterical: they represent only one small portion of the 360 degrees of the wheel presented to the wind.
Cross winds and controlling stall characteristics are critical to: 1) ensuring stability regardless of effective wind direction; 2) tend to guarantee shorter profiles which are less efficient than longer profiles.
Riding 40kph in a pack doesn’t depend so much on bike aero as it does pack aero. That’s why people ride in packs.
So it’s problematic for a rider w/o wind tunnel access to evaluate what is the most aero bike for themself. And accordingly, it’s usually a fools errand for an individual to try to select a new bike based on supposed aero efficiency.
Aero is great, but hard to find,
Riders position is the most important part in aerodynamics period. You need a frame that allows you to be most aero and efficient at the same time.
-
Riders position is the most important part in aerodynamics period. You need a frame that allows you to be most aero and efficient at the same time.
Agreed
-
The number of inanities in this message is so great i wont take the time to go point by point.
You do you.
Thanks, I stand corrected
-
Just had an idea that might solve a problem I've been having with my Garmin Varia Radar (RTL515).
I'm thinking of storing a very small power bank in the downtube storage compartment and running the cable to pop out at the seatpost so that I could connect to the Varia to give it extra power.
I tend to only get around 5hrs out of mine and want to do longer rides, so this seems like a superb, neat solution.
The only thing that would be a problem would be exposing the charging port & cable connection if it happened to be wet, so I guess it would mean either disconnecting while its raining, or finding a little waterproofing solution for when the cable is connected to the Varia.
Any ideas on this would be welcome, as it tends to rain quite a lot here :-)
Yet another win for the LCR018-D!
-
For those who have received the bike frame. Did you have to specify for the carbon or alloy clamps on the seat post or does it come with both?
-
New video today :
https://youtu.be/YoK2zUibV-U?si=SXe33piGrA2vS_dG (https://youtu.be/YoK2zUibV-U?si=SXe33piGrA2vS_dG)
-
For those who have received the bike frame. Did you have to specify for the carbon or alloy clamps on the seat post or does it come with both?
The clamp fits both. (7x7 and 7x9 mm)
-
Okay, got my DHL tracking number this early morning. We will see how long it takes to arrive here in Germany :)
It's some third party shipping (Yaboobo-JBD) and not directly DHL at this state.
-
For those who have received the bike frame. Did you have to specify for the carbon or alloy clamps on the seat post or does it come with both?
I haven't received my frame yet, so the following info could be incorrect. My rep (Chloe) said that the clamps only fit one size saddle rail. Either pick the correct size, or for a little more (I think $10, may $15) I could have both. It seemed like cheap future proofing to get both.
YMMV
-
I haven't received my frame yet, so the following info could be incorrect. My rep (Chloe) said that the clamps only fit one size saddle rail. Either pick the correct size, or for a little more (I think $10, may $15) I could have both. It seemed like cheap future proofing to get both.
YMMV
My rep (Jim) informed me that the included clamps fit both types of rails.
-
I was not informed of any clamp option at the time I ordered. I didn't even ask bescause it looks like the clamp design is top-to-bottom, as opposed to side-to-side. With a top-to-bottom type clamp surely it doesnt matter if the rail is 9mmx7mm or 7mmx7mm.
Have I got this wrong?
-
cycloholic:
Yeah, you are right. Usually when clamp clamps from top-bottom, you can use whatever saddle rail you want, when clamp clamps from sides then you need specific ones.
-
Just took my in-line seatpost out and it looks like it had some sort of long void.
Not sure if this is something to be worried about. The standard seatpost is smooth, but of course this is the one I want to use.
Have asked Carol via email but just wanted to get some opinions on here.
(https://i.ibb.co/7Dv2Sqf/IMG-1209.jpg)
-
There are a number of reasons why this could have happened, but ultimately it shouldn’t be there.
I’d imagine there’ll replace it ( and you can get free shipping on your mount )
Should you ride it? Hard to say from the picture. If you can get the same fit with the other post, I’d probably do that until this is replaced.
I’ve seen worse from other “ premium “ brands. So I personally wouldn’t stress too much.
-
I haven't received my frame yet, so the following info could be incorrect. My rep (Chloe) said that the clamps only fit one size saddle rail. Either pick the correct size, or for a little more (I think $10, may $15) I could have both. It seemed like cheap future proofing to get both.
YMMV
The seatpost saddle clamp included fits both carbon and round metal rails. I have the frame and seatpost. Currently building it.
-
I mailed Wendy when my frame would be shipped. She replied that the production of this batch of 56cm frames was done and they now moved on to painting. Shipping date would be between 15-20 november.
-
I was told kind of similar date for shipping my 58size frame. I hope it will be true, cant wait to build my bike, even thou I wont be able to ride it because winter is here :).
-
I asked about UCI Certification and got this reply "We submitted our UCI certification application for LCR018-D several months ago, but it took us a long time to receive a reply from UCI. They said that the bottom edge height of the eagle-eye design on our LCR018-D is 5mm, and according to the latest UCI rules, it must be changed to at least 10mm (the UCI rules have recently been revised, and even SEKA's eye design was notified that it does not comply with the new regulations). If this area is changed to 10mm, the eagle-eye design will not look good. Moreover, considering that we already have many outstanding orders and are busy with production, we do not plan to change the design or molds for the time being, so we are temporarily suspending the UCI application for this model."
-
Unless you’re going to race it, the UCI Certification means absolutely nothing.
Many people wrongly assume it’s a sign of quality assurance or sone sort of stress test procedure.
-
Unless you’re going to race it, the UCI Certification means absolutely nothing.
Many people wrongly assume it’s a sign of quality assurance or sone sort of stress test procedure.
Oh yeah I trust LC enough, just posting in case anyone has very serious ambitions
-
Would love to see some more detailed riding impressions snd comparisons to other builds.
-
A few pages ago, there was a report of a storage compartment lid coming loose. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
I'm trying to decide whether to order the frame with or without the compartment.
-
Can someone please help me out with the geometry?
My current bike has these measurments:
Seat tube lenght: 580MM
Seatpost lenght: 190MM
total lenght top of saddle to middlepoint BB: 810MM
BB to saddle rai: 770MM
Looking at the geometry, i find it impossible to make the saddle to bb distance long enough for me.
Also did a bikefit couple of months ago, can't figure out if the size 58 frame is good for me.
If someone can please help me out, would be much apreciated
-
Can someone please help me out with the geometry?
My current bike has these measurments:
Seat tube lenght: 580MM
Seatpost lenght: 190MM
total lenght top of saddle to middlepoint BB: 810MM
BB to saddle rai: 770MM
Looking at the geometry, i find it impossible to make the saddle to bb distance long enough for me.
Also did a bikefit couple of months ago, can't figure out if the size 58 frame is good for me.
If someone can please help me out, would be much apreciated
1. Go to https://www.bikegeocalc.com (https://www.bikegeocalc.com)
2. Input your current bike geometry + your bike fit measurements + components
3. Input LCR018 geometry
4. Compare and find the differences
Hard to help with so little information. Seat tube and head tube angles play a big role.
-
Unless you’re going to race it, the UCI Certification means absolutely nothing.
Many people wrongly assume it’s a sign of quality assurance or sone sort of stress test procedure.
Agreed.
I want nothing to do with UCI rules - none of them apply to safety save for perhaps the rule that bikes can't weigh less than a certain weight.
-
Can someone please help me out with the geometry?
My current bike has these measurments:
Seat tube lenght: 580MM
Seatpost lenght: 190MM
total lenght top of saddle to middlepoint BB: 810MM
BB to saddle rai: 770MM
Looking at the geometry, i find it impossible to make the saddle to bb distance long enough for me.
Also did a bikefit couple of months ago, can't figure out if the size 58 frame is good for me.
If someone can please help me out, would be much apreciated
Hey Biggiebaksteen,
Yeah the seat-tube lengths are very short on the LCR018 in the larger sizes. You probably should start by emailing LightCarbon and determine if 200mm is the true maximum stick-out of the seat post, or if they have a longer post available in the proper aero profile. It seems odd to me that they wouldn't have a solution for tall riders - but direct contact with them is the only way to be sure.
You noted that you had a fitting recently. With the answer from LC, I'd imagine that they'd review the specs and tell you if it fits and what size cranks/stem/handlebar/seatpost setback would be best for you.
Good luck!
-
1. Go to https://www.bikegeocalc.com (https://www.bikegeocalc.com)
2. Input your current bike geometry + your bike fit measurements + components
3. Input LCR018 geometry
4. Compare and find the differences
Hard to help with so little information. Seat tube and head tube angles play a big role.
"The length of seatpost is 400mm,The minimum insertion depth is 100mm, and we recommend a depth of 120mm or more." Was Jims answer in my requests of size ,52. So there is a longer Version. But ask in your own to make everything Sure
-
1. Go to https://www.bikegeocalc.com (https://www.bikegeocalc.com)
2. Input your current bike geometry + your bike fit measurements + components
3. Input LCR018 geometry
4. Compare and find the differences
Hard to help with so little information. Seat tube and head tube angles play a big role.
thanks for the link, that helps!
On my current bike the seat tube is 580MM and headtube is 510MM. This bike is a little to small for me at the moment. Thats why im affraid the LCR108 will also be to small. Thanks for helping out.
-
Hey Biggiebaksteen,
Yeah the seat-tube lengths are very short on the LCR018 in the larger sizes. You probably should start by emailing LightCarbon and determine if 200mm is the true maximum stick-out of the seat post, or if they have a longer post available in the proper aero profile. It seems odd to me that they wouldn't have a solution for tall riders - but direct contact with them is the only way to be sure.
You noted that you had a fitting recently. With the answer from LC, I'd imagine that they'd review the specs and tell you if it fits and what size cranks/stem/handlebar/seatpost setback would be best for you.
Good luck!
Hi !
yeah i just asked what the seatpost lenght is. They say online it has a minimum insert lenght of 200m. The seatpost in find online is 400MM wich makes for 200MM of space to use.
I asked LC what they think about my fit and they recommended a size 56 wich is even smaller. I looked at the numbers and figured out that this was to small. I asked again that i have a difficult time figuering out if the size 58 is big enough. The only reply i get is that it is my own risk for choosing a frame size, so its not really helping out.
I saw some people who are even taller than me (190cm) that have purchased this bike. Thats why im looking for advice here!
Thanks for your response.
(sorry english isnt my first language so my grammar might be wrong)
-
"The length of seatpost is 400mm,The minimum insertion depth is 100mm, and we recommend a depth of 120mm or more." Was Jims answer in my requests of size ,52. So there is a longer Version. But ask in your own to make everything Sure
Does the insertion depth change when you go for a bigger frame size, i think so right?
-
Can someone who has already received their LCR018-D frameset tell me about the thru-axels? Any good? I've already got my farme on order and was wondering if the thu-axels were okay or worth upgrading. What are the exact dimensions as I'm guessing with the front forks having a 'blind' thread the exact length is critical.
-
Can someone who has already received their LCR018-D frameset tell me about the thru-axels? Any good? I've already got my farme on order and was wondering if the thu-axels were okay or worth upgrading. What are the exact dimensions as I'm guessing with the front forks having a 'blind' thread the exact length is critical.
Funny question, I just asked the axle specs from LC as I am in the process of placing my order.
-
Funny question, I just asked the axle specs from LC as I am in the process of placing my order.
Many thanks for that. Lengths are 121mm and 173mm :). I don't suppose they showed you the head stlye? Is it a hex key or the type with a built in lever?
-
Many thanks for that. Lengths are 121mm and 173mm :). I don't suppose they showed you the head stlye? Is it a hex key or the type with a built in lever?
Sorry, I did not ask that question. From others pictures I saw of peoples build, it looked like hex key.
-
Many thanks for that. Lengths are 121mm and 173mm :). I don't suppose they showed you the head stlye? Is it a hex key or the type with a built in lever?
They are a hex key fit (6mm I think from memory).
Im in the process of building mine up now, the thru-axles look good and seem pretty light (I can weigh them this evening if it helps).
Always curious to hear if there are "better" alternatives whatever that may be - from weight, to colour options and tightening options.
This is my first disc build - ive always carried a Daysaver Essential 8 as my main tool - I dont think this would cut it in terms of force required to reinstall the wheel so will be looking into whatever lightweight 6mm tool options would be available to add to my collection - any thoughts or recommendations welcome!
-
They are a hex key fit (6mm I think from memory).
Im in the process of building mine up now, the thru-axles look good and seem pretty light (I can weigh them this evening if it helps).
Always curious to hear if there are "better" alternatives whatever that may be - from weight, to colour options and tightening options.
This is my first disc build - ive always carried a Daysaver Essential 8 as my main tool - I dont think this would cut it in terms of force required to reinstall the wheel so will be looking into whatever lightweight 6mm tool options would be available to add to my collection - any thoughts or recommendations welcome!
Hold on there, partner. Get your ass to a shop to have them show you the hand torque a thru-axle goes in and comes out with. It isn't much torque at all. If you think that you need more, instead of less, than that Daysaver Essential 8 tool, you should get some education on building a bike before you destroy something.
-
A few pages ago, there was a report of a storage compartment lid coming loose. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
I'm trying to decide whether to order the frame with or without the compartment.
I have the same question. If anyone can post some pictuted on the lid and compartment would very helpful.
How much can be fitted in the frame? A electronic mini pump? Tube, mini tool, tyre leaver?
-
Hold on there, partner. Get your ass to a shop to have them show you the hand torque a thru-axle goes in and comes out with. It isn't much torque at all. If you think that you need more, instead of less, than that Daysaver Essential 8 tool, you should get some education on building a bike before you destroy something.
Fair enough point - I havent got to the point of installing the thru axles in anger, other than lightly holding it on the workstand.
Im simply going by previous threads ive read on weight weenies complaining about having problem leveraging enough torque and better tools to use, hence the question about what everyone uses. Not everyone has the same strength and capabilities, so experiences will vary wildly.
Every day is a learning day - and thats where forums like this are great.
-
Fair enough point - I havent got to the point of installing the thru axles in anger, other than lightly holding it on the workstand.
Im simply going by previous threads ive read on weight weenies complaining about having problem leveraging enough torque and better tools to use, hence the question about what everyone uses. Not everyone has the same strength and capabilities, so experiences will vary wildly.
Every day is a learning day - and thats where forums like this are great.
I really recommend a torque wrench, one 1/2” 20+ Nm for the BB and discs, and one 1/4” ~2-15 Nm for everything else
-
They are a hex key fit (6mm I think from memory).
Im in the process of building mine up now, the thru-axles look good and seem pretty light (I can weigh them this evening if it helps).
Always curious to hear if there are "better" alternatives whatever that may be - from weight, to colour options and tightening options.
This is my first disc build - ive always carried a Daysaver Essential 8 as my main tool - I dont think this would cut it in terms of force required to reinstall the wheel so will be looking into whatever lightweight 6mm tool options would be available to add to my collection - any thoughts or recommendations welcome!
Yes please. Would love to know the weights if it's not too much trouble.
-
Yes please. Would love to know the weights if it's not too much trouble.
Front: 26g
Rear: 37g
-
I saw some people who are even taller than me (190cm) that have purchased this bike. Thats why im looking for advice here!
193cm / 92cm Inseam here.
My Saddleheight is around 810-815mm (depending on Saddle, Bike etc.). with the 530mm Seattubem lets say + 40mm from the Saddle, I will end up at 242-247 Seatpost extension. I dont worry about that, because I am a lighter rider (75kg).
-
193cm / 92cm Inseam here.
My Saddleheight is around 810-815mm (depending on Saddle, Bike etc.). with the 530mm Seattubem lets say + 40mm from the Saddle, I will end up at 242-247 Seatpost extension. I dont worry about that, because I am a lighter rider (75kg).
Thanks for your response man!
The only thing that has me worried is that the seatpost is 400MM long and only has 200MM which can be used. This is what i can find online.
I have the same height as you around 810-815MM. Do you own the bike and are riding with this set up ?
Thanks!!
-
Thanks for your response man!
The only thing that has me worried is that the seatpost is 400MM long and only has 200MM which can be used. This is what i can find online.
I have the same height as you around 810-815MM. Do you own the bike and are riding with this set up ?
Thanks!!
Wondering If Here Things are gettin Mixed Up:
Seat tube insert is max. 200.
Seatpost is 400mm
Means: seat tube + (400mm Seatpost - Minimum insert 100mm= 300mm)
If seattube is 530:
530+300=830mm (+height of the saddle, ~40mm= 870mm)
Recommend es to Insert at least 120mm -> 810mm + Saddle height
-
Could someone measure the circumference of the seat-post?
It is important for me that it is not too large to fit straps of a bikepacking bag.
Thanks in advance! :)
-
Wondering If Here Things are gettin Mixed Up:
Seat tube insert is max. 200.
Seatpost is 400mm
Means: seat tube + (400mm Seatpost - Minimum insert 100mm= 300mm)
If seattube is 530:
530+300=830mm (+height of the saddle, ~40mm= 870mm)
Recommend es to Insert at least 120mm -> 810mm + Saddle height
My man, thankyou, so so so much!
-
After 200mm in the Seattube you will hit the rivet of the bottle cages.
120mm is the min recommendet insertion, like Nikh wrote - plenty of length for us taller riders.
My Frame is postponed to end of november (from end of october). Which is okay - going to travel a lot the next weeks
-
I was told by Jim that the seatpost length is ”about” 380 mm (i.e. not 400 mm).
-
Build is continuing slowly, but very smoothly indeed.
This is one of the nicest and easiest frames I’ve worked on - a real joy to build.
I was so happy with the finish of the frameset that I decided to go for the Frames & Gear direct mount derailleur hanger. What a great decision that was - it is an absolute piece of art.
(https://i.ibb.co/DfJprhh4/IMG-1252.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6N7j3ZP/IMG-1255.jpg)
-
Build is continuing slowly, but very smoothly indeed.
This is one of the nicest and easiest frames I’ve worked on - a real joy to build.
I was so happy with the finish of the frameset that I decided to go for the Frames & Gear direct mount derailleur hanger. What a great decision that was - it is an absolute piece of art.
Damn this is so sick. Im pumped to see your complete build. Any update on the seat post situation?
-
Build is continuing slowly, but very smoothly indeed.
This is one of the nicest and easiest frames I’ve worked on - a real joy to build.
I was so happy with the finish of the frameset that I decided to go for the Frames & Gear direct mount derailleur hanger. What a great decision that was - it is an absolute piece of art.
That looks so good! Can I ask where you purchased from? Any weight saving over the LC part?
-
My size 50 frame is finished and will be shipped soon 🤩
It's raw matte carbon with black logos and a storage compartment 😊
-
That looks so good! Can I ask where you purchased from? Any weight saving over the LC part?
You can buy direct from www.framesandgear.com, but they are stocked by some retailers too depending on your location (I ordered direct).
Website claims weight at 21.5g. If anything I imagine the Light Carbon hanger will be slightly lighter, but we're talking such a small amount of weight here.
The main benefit is that its direct mount so I can get rid of the B link and it also looks fantastic!
-
My size 50 frame is finished and will be shipped soon 🤩
It's raw matte carbon with black logos and a storage compartment 😊
I am ordering a Ferrari red frame but every time I see the raw carbon, I second guess my decision. Looks so good!
-
My size 50 frame is finished and will be shipped soon 🤩
It's raw matte carbon with black logos and a storage compartment 😊
Nice! Great to see some 50s roll out (my size). Is the decal just a basic black or does it have a specific finish?
-
I am ordering a Ferrari red frame but every time I see the raw carbon, I second guess my decision. Looks so good!
That's a good choice! I went for Ferrari red too. The colour swatch on LC's website does not do it justice. Its a pearl - not a solid red. Note: this is not my frame or picture, but a pic I found on-line. My frame is on order and I hope the colour will look as good as this.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4TxQdz9/YS-3293-ferrari-red.jpg)
-
That's a good choice! I went for Ferrari red too. The colour swatch on LC's website does not do it justice. Its a pearl - not a solid red. Note: this is not my frame or picture, but a pic I found on-line. My frame is on order and I hope the colour will look as good as this.
This is the supposed to be the same colour. It looks great and I can only imagine in person. Makes me excited, I expect I should see my size 50 frame early January. Fine with me, Canadian winter gives me time to build everything.
Edit - I am dumb and can't get the hyer link to work... Look up on youtube Complete bike SHIMANO R8000 groupset disc brake carbon frame Bicycle 700*30C Paint:YS3293 TT X34
-
Nice! Great to see some 50s roll out (my size). Is the decal just a basic black or does it have a specific finish?
The stickers are only black and water transfer, which is dried at high heat and very smooth 👌
-
This is the supposed to be the same colour. It looks great and I can only imagine in person. Makes me excited, I expect I should see my size 50 frame early January. Fine with me, Canadian winter gives me time to build everything.
Edit - I am dumb and can't get the hyer link to work... Look up on youtube Complete bike SHIMANO R8000 groupset disc brake carbon frame Bicycle 700*30C Paint:YS3293 TT X34
It looks even better in the video! I'm glad I asked to have my seat post painted too.
-
This is the supposed to be the same colour. It looks great and I can only imagine in person. Makes me excited, I expect I should see my size 50 frame early January. Fine with me, Canadian winter gives me time to build everything.
Edit - I am dumb and can't get the hyer link to work... Look up on youtube Complete bike SHIMANO R8000 groupset disc brake carbon frame Bicycle 700*30C Paint:YS3293 TT X34
It's not you, it's the forum's software. Always had issues with YT links. Broke entire pages before the last update even ... Best to use the "code" markup for it, like so:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0U3DR0b8kI
It does not embed the video but at least you can post it and people can copy/paste it. Best workaround I found so far.
-
Just placed my order.
Went for a 58 size frame, stem 110, omm offset. 440 handlebar. Asked for 40mm of spacers wich wasn't a problem.
Full orange, glossy spray with lightcarbon logo in white.
For reference: im 190cm, inseam of 90,5cm, maybe this will help anyone.
Can't wait for it to arrive. First time building up a bike, but i've got the whole winter to complete the build.
-
Build is continuing slowly, but very smoothly indeed.
This is one of the nicest and easiest frames I’ve worked on - a real joy to build.
I was so happy with the finish of the frameset that I decided to go for the Frames & Gear direct mount derailleur hanger. What a great decision that was - it is an absolute piece of art.
(https://i.ibb.co/DfJprhh4/IMG-1252.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6N7j3ZP/IMG-1255.jpg)
That looks amazing. Can I ask you what model hangar this is? Is it the udh compatible direct mount for Shimano? Works ok with the lightcarbon thru axles?
-
Hi guys. Long time lurker and very rare poster here. Have a 58 incoming and just planning the build. Have a ultegra di2 12sp group waiting to go on this bike but confused about one thing. Do I need an adapter for the rear brake piston to run a 140mm rotor on the rear? Planing on a 160 front 140 rear.
-
Hi guys. Long time lurker and very rare poster here. Have a 58 incoming and just planning the build. Have a ultegra di2 12sp group waiting to go on this bike but confused about one thing. Do I need an adapter for the rear brake piston to run a 140mm rotor on the rear? Planing on a 160 front 140 rear.
No adaptator needed.
-
No adaptator needed.
Thank you
-
That looks amazing. Can I ask you what model hangar this is? Is it the udh compatible direct mount for Shimano? Works ok with the lightcarbon thru axles?
Hi, yes this is a Shimano direct mount hanger.
I double checked all measurements directly with the company before ordering.
This is the exact model:
Framesandgear Direct Mount Derailleur Hanger For UDH Systems (Shimano) P1.0
(https://i.ibb.co/Cp0jJzJr/IMG-1271.jpg)
-
Hi, yes this is a Shimano direct mount hanger.
I double checked all measurements directly with the company before ordering.
This is the exact model:
Framesandgear Direct Mount Derailleur Hanger For UDH Systems (Shimano) P1.0
(https://i.ibb.co/Cp0jJzJr/IMG-1271.jpg)
Thanks so much for that. Think it looks amazing and with the better shifting benefits of direct mount I will be getting one.
-
Anyone that can help me with choosing my bottom bracket.
Will this one work and if familiar, is this a good BB?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008822446507.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.2d6cddDsddDsKI&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.439370.0&scm_id=1007.40196.439370.0&scm-url=1007.40196.439370.0&pvid=28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.439370.0,pvid:28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22138%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2157.90%2127.79%21%21%21465.43%21223.39%21%4021038e1e17627783081675535e5bde%2112000047005478120%21rec%21NL%216342366584%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Af4d51604%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005008822446507%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-specification
Thanks!
-
Anyone that can help me with choosing my bottom bracket.
Will this one work and if familiar, is this a good BB?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008822446507.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.2d6cddDsddDsKI&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.439370.0&scm_id=1007.40196.439370.0&scm-url=1007.40196.439370.0&pvid=28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.439370.0,pvid:28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22138%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2157.90%2127.79%21%21%21465.43%21223.39%21%4021038e1e17627783081675535e5bde%2112000047005478120%21rec%21NL%216342366584%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Af4d51604%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005008822446507%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-specification
Thanks!
TT47-85,5- (24 for Shimano or 29 for SRAM).
-
TT47-85,5- (24 for Shimano or 29 for SRAM).
Yeah i've got a shimano crank and groupset, so this will work then? i've got it in 24mm in my basket
-
24 mm is the correct one for shimano cranks, remember to buy the correct tool for installation if necessary
-
24 mm is the correct one for shimano cranks, remember to buy the correct tool for installation if necessary
Yeah about that tool, still not sure wich one to buy. Will see once the BB is delivered.
-
Anyone that can help me with choosing my bottom bracket.
Will this one work and if familiar, is this a good BB?
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008822446507.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.2d6cddDsddDsKI&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.439370.0&scm_id=1007.40196.439370.0&scm-url=1007.40196.439370.0&pvid=28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.439370.0,pvid:28a15b19-795f-4824-a500-ae41473eb0d6,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238107%231934&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22138%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2157.90%2127.79%21%21%21465.43%21223.39%21%4021038e1e17627783081675535e5bde%2112000047005478120%21rec%21NL%216342366584%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Af4d51604%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005008822446507%7C_p_origin_prod%3A#nav-specification
Thanks!
Although this BB looks good, has anyone tried the $10-$15 one supplied by Light Carbon? I know a few pages back in this thread someone had an issue with their BB with DUB axle, but any reports of the 24mm one yet?
-
Hi, yes this is a Shimano direct mount hanger.
I double checked all measurements directly with the company before ordering.
This is the exact model:
Framesandgear Direct Mount Derailleur Hanger For UDH Systems (Shimano) P1.0
(https://i.ibb.co/Cp0jJzJr/IMG-1271.jpg)
I found this YouTube video that covers some AliExpress alternatives:
https://youtu.be/OpFVjlZnoN8?si=GxFUSK13X3MoCey2
Links for convenience (NOT affiliated):
(i) Be sure to choose the correct thread pitch!
G-Rider UDH TP1.0: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008538172996.html (28.8 g)
UDH TP 1.0 / 1.5 / 1.75: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007725713148.html (35.3 g)
Thru Axle TP 1.5: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006778954376.html
Check thread pitch, axle type, and specs carefully when using alternative hangers (especially from AliExpress)
-
Would be also my option for Shimano ones.
I will get a "blue" default one and say no thank you for the ~15grams weight saving ;D
Blue UDH just arrived in time for the frame, which will come this afternoon ;D
And has whopping 31.2 grams.
-
Have just placed an order for a size 54 frame (am 178cm tall), in Chameleon green/blue (08HS), no logos, with extra top tube and bottom tube accessory mounts, a DUB BB, spare accessory cover and bag, and both seat post types - total shipped to UK was $1045 inc PP fees. Bagged some EliteWheels Aero+ 53 wheels in 11:11 sale and now I need to start shopping round for the groupset to put on it. Looking forward to seeing what the paint looks like IRL!
-
Have just placed an order for a size 54 frame (am 178cm tall), in Chameleon green/blue (08HS), no logos, with extra top tube and bottom tube accessory mounts, a DUB BB, spare accessory cover and bag, and both seat post types - total shipped to UK was $1045 inc PP fees. Bagged some EliteWheels Aero+ 53 wheels in 11:11 sale and now I need to start shopping round for the groupset to put on it. Looking forward to seeing what the paint looks like IRL!
That colour will look great!
Curious about the extra bottom tube mounts? Is this underneath the tube?
-
That colour will look great!
Curious about the extra bottom tube mounts? Is this underneath the tube?
Yes like gravel bikes have, down by the cranks, gives me the option to mount a folding lock holster there. Gets muddy but keeps it low and out the way, I hate have stuff velcro or zip tie mounted.
-
How long do you have to wait for this extra mounts?
Do they charge extra for them?
-
How long do you have to wait for this extra mounts?
Do they charge extra for them?
I requested extra mounts on the top tube. No extra charge.
-
So if I am planning a 2x SRAM setup with this, am I correct that SRAM AXS Rival does not work since it is UDH? I'd have to go with SRAM XPLR Rival?
-
Finished the build tonight at long last.
What a beautiful bike - the raw carbon gloss finish really is amazing and I’m so glad I went for it.
Bike was so easy to build.
A quick 5 minute test confirmed the bike is solid as a rock and as comfortable as you would ever hope for - the geometry is superb. To be able to climb straight onto a bike and feel instantly comfortable and at home says it all.
Ultegra 8170 is absolutely ridiculous. Silent to the point where I wasn’t even sure I changed gear and so fast across the range.
Weighed in around 7.35kg with pedals which is right on target.
Hope to get an hour out on it tomorrow so hopefully will be able to report back after that, but initial impressions are really, really positive.
(https://i.ibb.co/wh895Jjy/IMG-1312.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jkx7Qx9K/IMG-1314.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/20HymwL0/IMG-1309.jpg)
-
Damnn looks good as expected. Looking forward to an in depth review!
-
Looks stunning. More photos please in high resolution 😁
-
Finished the build tonight at long last.
What a beautiful bike - the raw carbon gloss finish really is amazing and I’m so glad I went for it.
Bike was so easy to build.
A quick 5 minute test confirmed the bike is solid as a rock and as comfortable as you would ever hope for - the geometry is superb. To be able to climb straight onto a bike and feel instantly comfortable and at home says it all.
Ultegra 8170 is absolutely ridiculous. Silent to the point where I wasn’t even sure I changed gear and so fast across the range.
Weighed in around 7.35kg with pedals which is right on target.
Hope to get an hour out on it tomorrow so hopefully will be able to report back after that, but initial impressions are really, really positive.
(https://i.ibb.co/wh895Jjy/IMG-1312.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jkx7Qx9K/IMG-1314.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/20HymwL0/IMG-1309.jpg)
Looks beautiful - congratulations!
-
That looks so good. Thanks for the report. Would love to know the full spec. Particularly the wheels and tyres use.
-
I requested extra mounts on the top tube. No extra charge.
It was your original post I think that gave me the idea! :-)
Same for me, no extra charge and they didn't indicate that it would increase lead time.
-
It was your original post I think that gave me the idea! :-)
Same for me, no extra charge and they didn't indicate that it would increase lead time.
Glad I could inspire someone ;D
One thing to note about my original post. I requested extra mounts on the forks too, but a week or so after I placed my order Wendy contacted me to say the fork mounts would not be possible due to concerns about strength. I was okay with that. I'll still use this frame for bike-packing.
-
Finally it's here, Banana for scale: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Just few first impressions:
- There is a lot of paint on my frame (520) -> 1125gr with front and rear hanger and box cover
- Rear brake mounting is not completely flush, i would say it's not flatted after the frame come from the mold
- The paint around the front brake mounting points looks not so great
- Paint around the storage box edge looks a bit awful (maybe a bit of sanding to clean it would help)
- Paint around the top of the headtube has also poor finishing edge
- Have a bit of yellow paint on the underside of the top tube, don't know yet if it's on or under the clear coat
- The pouch has a good quality, not a 1€ AliX bag, more like 5-10€ :D
- The BB looks flatted and has nice clean threads
- Got a second LC Light UDH in the accessories bag for free :D
- Handlebar looks superb to me (but only had two AliX cheap ones for comperrison so far)
- The storage box cover is made from aluminium, at least it feels like metal and not plastic
Overall I'm surprised by the quality of the frame, the paint job was a bit difficult due to the two/three layers of paint for the crystal blue effect and the edge to the white parts.
By sides the few edges mentioned above the paint job looks great, no "bad" edges from blue to white on the whole frame/fork.
Will take few pictures from the inside with my 3€-HD-endoscopy-cam the next days.
And i have to figure out how to remove the red color on my tires...
-
@Bender87 great photos, will look forward to seeing the finished build! What’s the storage compartment mechanism like - it feels secure?
-
@Bender87 great photos, will look forward to seeing the finished build! What’s the storage compartment mechanism like - it feels secure?
I have to disassemble it (remove the screw), to check how it works.
I assume the screw is glued into place to hold the pressure of the latch.
If there is no glue, you would need some kind of spring washer to create the pressure, otherwise it would loosen itself by time.
At the moment, after 5 times open/close it's still pretty tight.
-
I have to disassemble it (remove the screw), to check how it works.
I assume the screw is glued into place to hold the pressure of the latch.
If there is no glue, you would need some kind of spring washer to create the pressure, otherwise it would loosen itself by time.
At the moment, after 5 times open/close it's still pretty tight.
Yep, it's just a screw which is glued into the latch. When it's getting loose after some time all the tolerancea might got "deburred" and you can reset it with some new glue, than it should be fine for longer time.
Added few pictures of the latch.
-
Anyone who has received the bike or a LC bike. Any concerns on the quality of the headset bearings? I'd hate to build the bike up to find out they will not last.
Order confirmed for my LCR018 50 in Ferrari Red. Slowly ordering everything else, to be prepared when the bike arrives. Ultegra 12 speed with Leese cranks already arrived. Now planning on going XMCS wheels but still deciding on the depth I want.
-
Mostly, the included bearing are complete crap. If you have to route a hose though it, then worth swapping for something stainless steel or corrosion resistant.
Or leave plenty of extra hose they can be chopped and reinstalled once new bearings have been fitted.
Enduro aren’t the best, but they are widely available and a reasonable price.
My Caledonia 5 came with headset bearings that lasted 6 months before I replaced them.
My friends winspace lasted just over 8 months.
Another friends BMC lasted around 12 months.
All were fully greased with Park HPG-1 when fitted.
I used 440C stainless enduro bearings as replacements on all 3 bikes, and they’ve fine for 24+ months.
Obviously it depends on the conditions you ride in. If it’s a summer only bike, the factory bearings might be ok.
-
Finally it's here, Banana for scale: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Just few first impressions:
- There is a lot of paint on my frame (520) -> 1125gr with front and rear hanger and box cover
- Rear brake mounting is not completely flush, i would say it's not flatted after the frame come from the mold
- The paint around the front brake mounting points looks not so great
- Paint around the storage box edge looks a bit awful (maybe a bit of sanding to clean it would help)
- Paint around the top of the headtube has also poor finishing edge
- Have a bit of yellow paint on the underside of the top tube, don't know yet if it's on or under the clear coat
- The pouch has a good quality, not a 1€ AliX bag, more like 5-10€ :D
- The BB looks flatted and has nice clean threads
- Got a second LC Light UDH in the accessories bag for free :D
- Handlebar looks superb to me (but only had two AliX cheap ones for comperrison so far)
- The storage box cover is made from aluminium, at least it feels like metal and not plastic
Overall I'm surprised by the quality of the frame, the paint job was a bit difficult due to the two/three layers of paint for the crystal blue effect and the edge to the white parts.
By sides the few edges mentioned above the paint job looks great, no "bad" edges from blue to white on the whole frame/fork.
Will take few pictures from the inside with my 3€-HD-endoscopy-cam the next days.
And i have to figure out how to remove the red color on my tires...
congratulation, may I ask you which size of tyres you have?
-
congratulation, may I ask you which size of tyres you have?
700 X 34c on a 23/30mm (inner/outer width) rim with 42mm in the front and 53mm height/depth in the back.
-
Finally it's here, Banana for scale: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Just few first impressions:
- There is a lot of paint on my frame (520) -> 1125gr with front and rear hanger and box cover
- Rear brake mounting is not completely flush, i would say it's not flatted after the frame come from the mold
- The paint around the front brake mounting points looks not so great
- Paint around the storage box edge looks a bit awful (maybe a bit of sanding to clean it would help)
- Paint around the top of the headtube has also poor finishing edge
- Have a bit of yellow paint on the underside of the top tube, don't know yet if it's on or under the clear coat
- The pouch has a good quality, not a 1€ AliX bag, more like 5-10€ :D
- The BB looks flatted and has nice clean threads
- Got a second LC Light UDH in the accessories bag for free :D
- Handlebar looks superb to me (but only had two AliX cheap ones for comperrison so far)
- The storage box cover is made from aluminium, at least it feels like metal and not plastic
Overall I'm surprised by the quality of the frame, the paint job was a bit difficult due to the two/three layers of paint for the crystal blue effect and the edge to the white parts.
By sides the few edges mentioned above the paint job looks great, no "bad" edges from blue to white on the whole frame/fork.
Will take few pictures from the inside with my 3€-HD-endoscopy-cam the next days.
And i have to figure out how to remove the red color on my tires...
This looks amazing, thank you for sharing! I am currently discussing a very similar design with them (light color with fork painted differently inside etc., some decals). I have to say I'm not very happy with the communication. The color choice seems to be really difficult, as I do not want a straight up white but a very light grey. Can anybody explain to me how their color choice works? Are they limited to the exact colors in the YS catalogue? Can they mix colors? First they showed me catalogue of hundreds of Pantone shades to choose from only to tell me that a simple light grey is impossible. Can you comment on how your process of choosing the colors went? I'm just trying to understand at this point or go for the raw carbon to avoid this whole mess.
-
Mostly, the included bearing are complete crap. If you have to route a hose though it, then worth swapping for something stainless steel or corrosion resistant.
Or leave plenty of extra hose they can be chopped and reinstalled once new bearings have been fitted.
Enduro aren’t the best, but they are widely available and a reasonable price.
My Caledonia 5 came with headset bearings that lasted 6 months before I replaced them.
My friends winspace lasted just over 8 months.
Another friends BMC lasted around 12 months.
All were fully greased with Park HPG-1 when fitted.
I used 440C stainless enduro bearings as replacements on all 3 bikes, and they’ve fine for 24+ months.
Obviously it depends on the conditions you ride in. If it’s a summer only bike, the factory bearings might be ok.
Thanks for the information about the bearings. I don't want the hassle of changing the headset bearing after such a short period of time, and would like to fit a good one from the start. Does anyone have the specifications/size of the bearing?
-
Thanks for the information about the bearings. I don't want the hassle of changing the headset bearing after such a short period of time, and would like to fit a good one from the start. Does anyone have the specifications/size of the bearing?
Someone earlier quoted it was the MH-P16. Can't confirm yet as my (56) frame will be shipped on monday.
Headset bearings for anyone interested are MH-P16.
-
This looks amazing, thank you for sharing! I am currently discussing a very similar design with them (light color with fork painted differently inside etc., some decals). I have to say I'm not very happy with the communication. The color choice seems to be really difficult, as I do not want a straight up white but a very light grey. Can anybody explain to me how their color choice works? Are they limited to the exact colors in the YS catalogue? Can they mix colors? First they showed me catalogue of hundreds of Pantone shades to choose from only to tell me that a simple light grey is impossible. Can you comment on how your process of choosing the colors went? I'm just trying to understand at this point or go for the raw carbon to avoid this whole mess.
I mentioned it on the first pages here, the color options are a "take it or leave it" thing. Maybe they do not have a own paint shop and outsource it and therefore don't have many options. Or it's overall company discission to have only this colors available. You can asked them directly why :)
My communication over Whatsapp was straight forward, take sometimes a day to response due to the time diff, but overall it was short and effective.
Don't hesitate to just asked any question to them, they want to sell you something, they will respond to your request.
-
This looks amazing, thank you for sharing! I am currently discussing a very similar design with them (light color with fork painted differently inside etc., some decals). I have to say I'm not very happy with the communication. The color choice seems to be really difficult, as I do not want a straight up white but a very light grey. Can anybody explain to me how their color choice works? Are they limited to the exact colors in the YS catalogue? Can they mix colors? First they showed me catalogue of hundreds of Pantone shades to choose from only to tell me that a simple light grey is impossible. Can you comment on how your process of choosing the colors went? I'm just trying to understand at this point or go for the raw carbon to avoid this whole mess.
This link is for the frame colors:
"Below link are our optional color codes for your selection(color codes must be the ones listed on our website):
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43)"
The pantone list is only for the decals: "Optional logo color codes : https://www.pantone-colours.com/ (https://www.pantone-colours.com/)"
Both links were sent to me by Wendy.
The colors you can choose from are indeed very limited. That is why I went for the Eurobike paint design and changed all the gold to dark grey. I asked if the marble effect good also be made with a white pearl base color but that was not possible.
-
Can anyone tell me what dimension 1 is on the frame? This is a restriction for fitting the Magene TEO P151.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nz2wk6b9/magene.jpg)
-
This link is for the frame colors:
"Below link are our optional color codes for your selection(color codes must be the ones listed on our website):
https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/decal-painting_n43)"
The pantone list is only for the decals: "Optional logo color codes : https://www.pantone-colours.com/ (https://www.pantone-colours.com/)"
Both links were sent to me by Wendy.
The colors you can choose from are indeed very limited. That is why I went for the Eurobike paint design and changed all the gold to dark grey. I asked if the marble effect good also be made with a white pearl base color but that was not possible.
Interesting, my bike was painted in Pantone 109C (Yellow) with black decals... So there might have been a change in color policy then since early september when I ordered.
I even got a picture of 2 color examples before deciding (see picture). Jim has not indicated that all pantone colors are available, but the 109 is not on the page you mentioned (although 109 is very close to Yellow C).
-
I have no idea, I ordered mine on 20th of september, but from what I understood I could only choose from the color chart on their website and could use the pantone color chart for the decals. Might just depend on who you are dealing with.
-
I enquired about custom colours and Wendy confirmed that it had to be off the list on the page shared higher up the thread.
I'd also be interested in knowing specs of the headset bearings (and where to source decent alternatives in UK / Europe) as I'd rather install decent ones straight away if they're liable to failure.
I see Hambini knocks them out with impressive sounding waffle! https://www.hambini.com/product/mh-p16-headset-bearing-40x52x7-45-45-k4052h7-mr128-th-070e-mr170/
-
Can anyone tell me what dimension 1 is on the frame? This is a restriction for fitting the Magene TEO P151.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nz2wk6b9/magene.jpg)
It's around 55.5mm - 56mm.
-
well.. it totally caught my eye, the similarity
-
I'm not fully up to speed on the various functions on Chinatown, so I'm hoping links work appropriately here.
My 56CM LCR018 arrived yesterday - 8 days to US from ship date. Not bad at all. As you can see, packaging was solid and well protected.
I think most people's questions about the bike and components have been answered. Still I thought the photos I took last night from unpacking and weighing might still be of interest.
Overall, quality seem very good.
1) Inside and outsides of tubes are clean and look as they should. BB and brake mounts have been properly faced. No issues with the paint job.
2) Seatposts have half and full cm markings on the back, as well as minimum insertion noted.
3) I'm new to UDH, so it took a while before I was comfortable with how tight the fit was in the frame. Nonetheless, it installed fine.
4) The storage compartment closes very firmly, but if the catch slips while the cover is installed, it would be a bear to take off. I'll look at that a bit more closely before storing anything in the downtube. BTW, the storage bag appears to be of very high quality (material/seams/zipper) although I haven't check its fit in the downtube.
4) Installing the rear brake hose is easy-peasy (just push it through from the rear).
5) The handlebars look like they will also be easy to thread (conveniently large openings).
6) Headset bearings look fine for now. I don't mind disconnecting hoses from the brake levers to change bearings - so not worried about cutting hoses.
7) My tool fit the bottom bracket fine, but my largest torque wrench is 3/8 drive and I need one that's 1/2. So off to Harbor Freight tomorrow.
BTW I have a set of 45mm LightCarbon gravel wheels for this frame. So far they seem nice. DT Swiss style of rachet. I ordered with CX-Ray spokes (I think that was a $70 upcharge - or about $0.70 per gram saved, which is a pretty good price to weight savings). These arrived in September, and I didn't reweigh last night, but I believe they came in at 1440 gm.
As you'll see in the photos, I have both the 0mm (185 gm) and 15mm (180 gm) setback posts. Ditto for the 100x380 (360 gm) & 80X400 handlebars (325 gm). Similarly, I have a LightCarbon 3D printed saddle and an Aspide Saddle, not sure which I'll run, but show weights for each. And I have lots of headset spacers, the picture is a sample which represent what should be the most I'll ever put on the bike. The weight is shown of the bungs/seatpost clamp/seatpost-cover both with and without the battery holder (which I won't be using).
Finally, the frame with nothing installed came in at 1140 gm. Again this is a 56 cm, w/ black mat paint with some gold logos.
the photos can be found here:https://photos.app.goo.gl/FjqEnvsMaFZnk2fo7
-
Black and Gold looks also nice and the model name on the seat tube is also a good position.
Might invest in some decals with the same design on my frame.
-
A quick question for someone who has a frame in hand.
Can you tell me the thickness (hight) of the bearing cap / spacer please. I’m trying to work out the frame stack with any mandatory spacers needed.
Thank you
-
Frame looks good, and thorough overview!
I’m currently speccing out groupset for my order - am looking at SRAM Force AXS E which is direct mount UDH, I know there was some confusion earlier in the thread about the bike having ‘mini UDH’ hanger. I think in the end it was decided that this was just a lightweight version of the hanger itself? The direct mount derailleur should fit fine?
Also interested to know if the LightCarbon BB is any good or whether its worth spending more on a 'decent' one, either OEM SRAM (about £30) or another 3rd party version?
-
I now have put a few hours of riding into the LCR018-D so just want to give everyone the final specs of the bike and a quick initial impression.
Specification:
Size 54 frameset
Raw carbon, gloss finish, laser silver decals (absolutely superb - despite my love of hyper chameleon finishes, this raw carbon is by far my favourite finish).
380/80 Handlebar
Inline Seatpost
Ultegra 8170 Groupset with titanium bolt upgrades on the groupset and throughout the bike
Frames & Gear UDH Direct Mount Hanger
CeramicSpeed T47 BB
Go-Zone 45mm Carbon Wheelset, 24mm internal, CX Ray Spokes, brass rainbow nipples, GP5000 30mm Tyres, Ridenow TPU tubes
Galfer Wave Rotors, Swissstop 34RS brake pads
YBN S12 TIC rainbow chain, waxed with Dynamic Wander Wax (soon to be moving to UFO Ultra Endurance Wax)
Lightcarbon 3D print saddle and carbon bottle cages
Lightcarbon titanium garmin mount
Assembly:
Putting the bike together was a pleasure - has to go down as the easiest bike I have ever built - and this is my first disc brake bike so that is saying something!
Everything is finished to a very high standard, no problem routing any cables - handlebars are easy to route through as well - everything just works.
Di2 battery holder in the seatpost is custom made to fit and is a really nice finishing touch.
Another feature not really mentioned is the little GoPro mount which attaches to the Garmin mount in where the mount meets the bar - not out front at the actual Garmin faceplate. This is such a great little addition - it allows me to add a light to the bike but keep it nicely tucked in close to the frame - so compact and neat and not something ive seen before, so kudos to LightCarbon for this!
Initial Impressions:
If there is one word I would use to describe this bike, it would be smooth.
It's exactly as I hoped for, and exactly the bike I wanted.
Is it as responsive as a TCR? No. Is it as fast as an Aeroad? No. Dont get me wrong, its fun and a pleasure to ride, but im trying to give an objective feel of the actual ride compared to some other bikes.
BUT - its smoother than anything else ive ridden, and im willing to bet I might actually be faster over 4-5 hours on this bike than the other 2 listed, because this bike does not beat me up at all.
It is so easy on the body that after 2 hours I find myself physically in far better shape than I would be on any of my other race bikes - and thats the key.
I bought this bike for endurance, and it's ticking all the boxes - and then some.
I went for Ultegra 8170 Di2 and ive never been as blown away by a groupset.
I've been using 9150 Di2 on my Cervelo S3 which is very, very good - but this 8170 is ridiculous. Absolutely silent and shifts faster than any groupset ive ever used - even the front shifts feel like a rear shift - so smooth, fast and quiet.
I wasn't expecting that much of a difference - but it is a big difference to any groupset ive used and I couldn't recommend highly enough.
Ive added the little button "exaggerators" that slip in under the hoods to make the hidden buttons more pronounced (I got them off Aliexpress) - what a difference they make! I can press even with winter gloves and feel the clicks so clearly - a small but massive improvement.
Another big motivator for this bike was the shift to disc brakes - I have hand and wrist problems at the minute and needed something to ease the pressure and force going through my hands - especially on wet winter roads.
Overall, I am delighted with disc braking. Bleeding the 8170 was so simple as to be a joke - took 5 minutes to do both front and back. Aligning the rotors did keep me busy for half an hour as I wrapped my head around it, but now all set and silent.
I was surprised by the gradual nature of the braking - to me it feels much like a very well setup rim brake bike, but the key difference being that it feels the same even in the wet! So this is a huge improvement.
Im using Swissstop 34RS pads, so maybe other pads would give a different feel, but I am very happy with how these perform.
Another interesting bonus is the lack of external cables. The bike looks so sleek and clean - and to that point, no cables makes cleaning down the bike SO much easier!
It is such a well rounded package overall, so smooth, confidence inspiring in its stability, still agile and absolutely silent, which always brings a smile to my face when riding.
One point to mention is the handlebars. I love the look of the design, and the sloping shape gives an extra few mm of height to the shifters. However that sloping shape is not great for riding on the tops as it angles your shoulders in towards each other and feels rather cramped. As someone who loves to climb, I can see this being a slight point of annoyance in the future, so I may revisit the bars after a while and think about changing them out. Its a small point, but something worth mentioning.
It will be interesting to see when the good weather comes around again what I think of taking my Cervleo S3 out again - the LCR018-D is such a well rounded bike that covers every scenario so well, that I can see it becoming my go-to bike for most rides.
Future Plans:
There's not much more to do to the bike, but I have a couple of things i'd like to try.
1. A "best" wheel upgrade for the good days. A 50/55 ish deep set of wheels around 1200g to really make the bike shine. The Go Zones are great, and the brass nipples give me all year round confidence, but at 1380g they are a do it all workhorse. Id love a set of all out performance wheels for big days out. I'm trying to decide between DFS Carbon custom build, Serenade 50mm, Aero Raptor 50mm, XM Carbon custom build, or 9Velo - any thoughts here much appreciated!
2. A second fork. I have my current fork cut with a couple of extra spacers for maximum comfort, I'd love to get another one and cut it slammed for better aero performance on fast days. Its not that big a deal to switch the fork out, so currently debating the cost if an extra fork and an extra caliper.
Sorry for the rambling, hope this is of some use to users on the forum. Anything else you'd like to know about the bike, just reach out and I'd be glad to help.
(https://i.ibb.co/gZVbf6w2/lcr018d-3.jpg)
-
A quick question for someone who has a frame in hand.
Can you tell me the thickness (hight) of the bearing cap / spacer please. I’m trying to work out the frame stack with any mandatory spacers needed.
Thank you
Morning,
Im getting a measurement of exactly 10mm for the bearing cap.
Do you know if any spacers are needed above that to run safely?
Im considering a more racy position as a second option and having it slammed down to the bearing cap would be the best fit for that.
-
Morning,
Im getting a measurement of exactly 10mm for the bearing cap.
Do you know if any spacers are needed above that to run safely?
Im considering a more racy position as a second option and having it slammed down to the bearing cap would be the best fit for that.
Excellent, thank you.
I guessed at 10mm but wanted to be sure.
I still haven’t ordered a frame as im deliberating between a 52 and 54. 54 gives me more toe clearance but the stack is too high, even with another bar and -10 integrated stem.
There should be no reason why the bar can’t sit directly on top of the bearing cap. It’s the only mandatory interface needed.
Great looking bike. Glad you’re enjoying it
-
I now have put a few hours of riding into the LCR018-D so just want to give everyone the final specs of the bike and a quick initial impression.
Specification:
Size 54 frameset
Raw carbon, gloss finish, laser silver decals (absolutely superb - despite my love of hyper chameleon finishes, this raw carbon is by far my favourite finish).
380/80 Handlebar
Inline Seatpost
Ultegra 8170 Groupset with titanium bolt upgrades on the groupset and throughout the bike
Frames & Gear UDH Direct Mount Hanger
CeramicSpeed T47 BB
Go-Zone 45mm Carbon Wheelset, 24mm internal, CX Ray Spokes, brass rainbow nipples, GP5000 30mm Tyres, Ridenow TPU tubes
Galfer Wave Rotors, Swissstop 34RS brake pads
YBN S12 TIC rainbow chain, waxed with Dynamic Wander Wax (soon to be moving to UFO Ultra Endurance Wax)
Lightcarbon 3D print saddle and carbon bottle cages
Lightcarbon titanium garmin mount
Sorry for the rambling, hope this is of some use to users on the forum. Anything else you'd like to know about the bike, just reach out and I'd be glad to help.
Thx, this is absolutely useful for me — so thank you for the rambling! ;-)
Really nice build.
I ordered a 56 cm as well, with raw carbon and a mix of glossy and matte finish with custom decals.
Still have to wait until January to receive the frame, so in the meantime I’m wandering around the forums getting inspired by great builds like yours.
For my build, I ordered a wheelset from XM Carbon Speed:
CS-D50CU-33 in the front and CS-D65CU-33 in the rear — a mullet setup with 50 mm front and 65 mm rear, and 26 mm internal width.
Since I’m a heavier rider at around 95 kg, Peter advised me to choose the T800 carbon, 20/20H pattern, the titanium-colored Carbon Speed hub, and the 3.8 mm carbon spokes because they’re a bit thicker and stiffer than the 5.0 mm version.
Peter just sent me the first photos of the rims. Total weight is 1335 grams.
If you’re interested, I can give you an update once I receive the wheels.
I have a couple of questions:
• Which titanium bolts did you use for the groupset?
Do you have a list with quantities and sizes? I’d love to order them before the frame arrives.
• And just out of curiosity — what’s the total weight of your bike? Did you measure it?
-
Thx, this is absolutely useful for me — so thank you for the rambling! ;-)
Really nice build.
I ordered a 56 cm as well, with raw carbon and a mix of glossy and matte finish with custom decals.
Still have to wait until January to receive the frame, so in the meantime I’m wandering around the forums getting inspired by great builds like yours.
For my build, I ordered a wheelset from XM Carbon Speed:
CS-D50CU-33 in the front and CS-D65CU-33 in the rear — a mullet setup with 50 mm front and 65 mm rear, and 26 mm internal width.
Since I’m a heavier rider at around 95 kg, Peter advised me to choose the T800 carbon, 20/20H pattern, the titanium-colored Carbon Speed hub, and the 3.8 mm carbon spokes because they’re a bit thicker and stiffer than the 5.0 mm version.
Peter just sent me the first photos of the rims. Total weight is 1335 grams.
If you’re interested, I can give you an update once I receive the wheels.
I have a couple of questions:
• Which titanium bolts did you use for the groupset?
Do you have a list with quantities and sizes? I’d love to order them before the frame arrives.
• And just out of curiosity — what’s the total weight of your bike? Did you measure it?
No problem, weight wise, I think the bike weighed in at 7.3kg including Dura Ace pedals. I'll try and weigh again at the weekend to double check this.
Bolts are as follows:
8170 brakes:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009888128821.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.promoteRecommendProducts_2010711649996.1005009888128821
8170 derailleurs and shifters:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008843427395.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.0.0.72741ec81EAnCW
Crank Arm Bolts: (M6x18)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008384011329.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.6baa1802355yRV
Top Cap Bolt: (M6x25) - I got from Superbuy as I needed an exact match
https://www.superbuy.com/en/page/buy/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fitem.taobao.com%2Fitem.htm%3Fid%3D648537181933%26ali_trackid%3D2%3Amm_117358474_33384934_118778578
Stem Bolts: (M5x25) - I got from Superbuy as I needed an exact match
https://www.superbuy.com/en/page/buy/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fitem.taobao.com%2Fitem.htm%3Fid%3D646151364530%26ali_trackid%3D2%3Amm_117358474_33384934_118778578
Bottle Cage Bolts:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009593380592.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.6baa1802355yRV
Hope this is of some help!
-
Its not that big a deal to switch the fork out, so currently debating the cost if an extra fork and an extra caliper.
Really? Don't you have to bleed the brakes?
-
Really? Don't you have to bleed the brakes?
Bleeding the front brakes while building the bike took about 2 minutes.
I know I was well prepared and had got proper tools from bleedkit.com, but couldn’t get over how simple and quick it was.
I do think the 8170 groupset is very easy in comparison to some stories of other groupsets.
Wouldn’t bother me in the slightest to have to change the fork.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, and in the meantime I bought an Ultegra Di2 groupset from AliExpress. I know this is slightly off-topic, but following this chat I understood there are many experts here I’d like a quick opinion. The shifters don’t power on at all, even after replacing the batteries, and I’m starting to think they might not actually be the wireless ST-R8170 levers I ordered. The mechanism inside also looks mechanical. If anyone can tell me more from the photos— or share any tricks to test them, I’d really appreciate it.
-
A quick question for someone who has a frame in hand.
Can you tell me the thickness (hight) of the bearing cap / spacer please. I’m trying to work out the frame stack with any mandatory spacers needed.
Thank you
Compression ring. 8.3mm
Cover. 10mm
Thick spacer. 10mm
Thin spacer 5mm
Hope this helps
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, and in the meantime I bought an Ultegra Di2 groupset from AliExpress. I know this is slightly off-topic, but following this chat I understood there are many experts here I’d like a quick opinion. The shifters don’t power on at all, even after replacing the batteries, and I’m starting to think they might not actually be the wireless ST-R8170 levers I ordered. The mechanism inside also looks mechanical. If anyone can tell me more from the photos— or share any tricks to test them, I’d really appreciate it.
I’m not an expert, look for these:
Was the battery you changed in the lever/housing? Me h levers don’t have a battery.
Is there a place to install a shifter cable? Electronic don’t have a shifter cable.
ADo the shift buttons connect mechanically to the shift drum in the body, or are they contact switches, possibly with a visible wire running back into the body. In the first case mechanical, in the second electronic.
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, and in the meantime I bought an Ultegra Di2 groupset from AliExpress. I know this is slightly off-topic, but following this chat I understood there are many experts here I’d like a quick opinion. The shifters don’t power on at all, even after replacing the batteries, and I’m starting to think they might not actually be the wireless ST-R8170 levers I ordered. The mechanism inside also looks mechanical. If anyone can tell me more from the photos— or share any tricks to test them, I’d really appreciate it.
It is the right model. Yes, it is a LED. Try to keep pushing on the same time both buttons (level up and level down speed button) and the LED will light on).
-
I’m waiting for my new frame to arrive, and in the meantime I bought an Ultegra Di2 groupset from AliExpress. I know this is slightly off-topic, but following this chat I understood there are many experts here I’d like a quick opinion. The shifters don’t power on at all, even after replacing the batteries, and I’m starting to think they might not actually be the wireless ST-R8170 levers I ordered. The mechanism inside also looks mechanical. If anyone can tell me more from the photos— or share any tricks to test them, I’d really appreciate it.
Connect up the rear and front derailleurs to the battery, download the eTube app, and follow all the prompts to connect to them + the shifters, and you'll see everything's in working order.
-
Compression ring. 8.3mm
Cover. 10mm
Thick spacer. 10mm
Thin spacer 5mm
Hope this helps
Are there 2x10mm and 2x5mm spacers or only one of each?
-
Are there 2x10mm and 2x5mm spacers or only one of each?
I think two of each. I originally ordered an extra 5 & 10. Then I decided to order a second handlebar in order to play with fitting. So I got two bags of bits with a total 5 10mm and 5 5mm. Which I think reflects 2 of each per handlebar and my original 1 extra of each.
-
Anyone play with mounting the CF computer mount? I'm running into a few issues with same.
1) Screws aren't long enough to connect a mount on both the top and bottom sides. 2) The three screw holes on the base of the adjustable camera/light/other mount don't align with the holes on the CF mount (that is the main bar). The middle hole is too far forward. So even if the screws were longer, there doesn't seem to be a way to mount my light and the computer
Has anyone else encountered this issue? should the adj camera/light/other mount be connected via the screws holding the CF Mount to the handlebars instead of under the disc on the front?
Do you know the size (diameter and thread pitch) are that mount the discs for Wahoo/Garmin/Bryton? My guage set doesn't go down far enough in size/
I'm thinking that I'll end up having to make my own mount - although that's not a project that I look forward to.
-
Ive added the little button "exaggerators" that slip in under the hoods to make the hidden buttons more pronounced (I got them off Aliexpress) - what a difference they make! I can press even with winter gloves and feel the clicks so clearly - a small but massive improvement.
Thanks for this excellent review bsharp77 - very helpful.
I'm just curious about what these 'exaggerators' are. Do you have a link?
-
Thanks for this excellent review bsharp77 - very helpful.
I'm just curious about what these 'exaggerators' are. Do you have a link?
No problem - glad you found it if some use!
The buttons on the tops of the 8170 shifters can be hard to locate sometimes, so these are simple little bits of plastic which sit onto the buttons to raise them and make them much more ‘clicky’.
Very simple, but very effective.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EysFtKG
In other updates, I have ordered a set of Kocevelo handlebars as I’m just not happy with the angle of the tops on the handlebars. Really not great for climbing for me, I’d much prefer a nice flat bar - I don’t need the extra stack given by the bars.
Black Friday has also got its grips on me and I’ve given in and ordered a set of 9270 Dura Ace callipers for the bike. I just couldn’t resist :-)
-
Finally it's here, Banana for scale: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
I'm looking at getting that same YS9070 as my primary color, it looks really pure white on your photos, which is what I'm hoping for it to look like, I don't want it to be too pearl-like, I basically want 'white metallic'...
Can you say how it looks outside on a sunny day?!
-
I'm looking at getting that same YS9070 as my primary color, it looks really pure white on your photos, which is what I'm hoping for it to look like, I don't want it to be too pearl-like, I basically want 'white metallic'...
Can you say how it looks outside on a sunny day?!
Yeah it looks like normal white, but it has a bit of the pearl/metallic effect init, but not too much for me at least.
I've been trying right now the second day to fit the handlebars brake hoses without any twist.
I was too focused yesterday on my brakes and hoses and how they look that i mounted them completely and after half a day of trying to route it into the handlebars gave up and throw them in the bin. I think the biggest issue was, the brakes and hoses were already fixed and the hose itself was very sturdy and had a very small curve into it. So every time i mounted the handlebar it made a 90° turn in one direction...
As i said, today the new hoses are a bit better and could be straightened before mounting. Inserted them into the fork and frame and routed everything into the handlebars, now it has no twist and i'm working on the rest, as mounting the brakes at the end to the hoses.
When finished I'm definitely taking some pictures outside :)
-
Has it now been definitively clarified whether a Hutchinson Caracal Race with 40mm fits in the frame, and has anyone had the crazy idea of installing Zipp XPLR?
-
Has it now been definitively clarified whether a Hutchinson Caracal Race with 40mm fits in the frame, and has anyone had the crazy idea of installing Zipp XPLR?
The Hutchinson Caracal Race is 42mm wide (true width). I tried it with 32mm rims (38mm outside). The front tire fits fine. The rear one is too big. There is only 2mm space to the left and right chain stay.
From my side the front max tire width is 45mm, in the back 40mm (real size).
-
Finished with 7.6kg incl. pedals.
Had to cut the seat post by ~25mm due to my short legs.
Also i have to bleed the rear brake again, there is some weird "bubble" noise coming from the lever itself.
I'm also not completely happy with the EDS front derailleur, due to some dragging when it adjust itself to the rear cog position during shifting.
Cannot adjust the steps without the expert mode in the app, which is blocked by wheeltop right now.
Only issue i had so far which came from the frame is that it's really hard to clamp down the sattle with the screws without scratching the seat post.
You need a long narrow bit holder or bit itself to use a torque wrench on the clamping, otherwise it's not possible to access the screws without any tilt.
But that's a minor tool issue from my side.
-
Finished with 7.6kg incl. pedals.
Had to cut the seat post by ~25mm due to my short legs.
Congratulation very nice!! Quick question: what size is your bike?
From the photos it looks like you have quite a lot of seatpost showing, so I was a bit surprised to read that you shortened the seat tube by 25mm. It seemed a bit strange, so I wanted to ask you directly.
-
Congratulation very nice!! Quick question: what size is your bike?
From the photos it looks like you have quite a lot of seatpost showing, so I was a bit surprised to read that you shortened the seat tube by 25mm. It seemed a bit strange, so I wanted to ask you directly.
It's the 520.
The minimum insertion for the seat post is 100mm, but you only can insert it like ~200mm in total, till the smaller area around the front derailleur mount.
I needed 15-20mm lower height than the post would had with the max insertion.
Pictures show max insertion on the top and bottom of the post, so 25mm less length makes 25mm more space to adjust the height.
-
I'm also not completely happy with the EDS front derailleur, due to some dragging when it adjust itself to the rear cog position during shifting.
Cannot adjust the steps without the expert mode in the app, which is blocked by wheeltop right now.
Off topic but figured I would help, when I can. You can email Wheeltop to get that unblocked. There is also a third party online tool, dreds.jeckyll.net (or something like that) that will allow you to edit the front derailleur how you want.
-
Has anyone that has ordered a 58 frame received any shipping notice?
My frame was to be sent around the 10th of November, but haven’t gotten any updates yet.
-
Has anyone that has ordered a 58 frame received any shipping notice?
My frame was to be sent around the 10th of November, but haven’t gotten any updates yet.
Shipping time varies based on your location.
I'm in the US. I was told mine (56cm) would ship on a Monday and that I'd get the tracking number on Wednesday. I emailed Wednesday (knowing they're busy this time of year) and got my tracking number right back. Seven AM the following Wed (9 days from ship date, 7 days from tracking number) FedEx notified me that they had my package, and they dropped it off that afternoon. So it looks to me like the tracking number doesn't really work (at least in the US) until the in country shipper receives the package.
Anyhow, no reason not to email your sales rep. and ask for an update.
-
klementino: Yes, my 58cm frameset was shipped a day ago. I would guess yours will be sent out soon to :).
My frame is simple matt black without any logos or anything, so maybe if you have some custom paint one it will take a bit longer.
-
Has anyone that has ordered a 58 frame received any shipping notice?
My frame was to be sent around the 10th of November, but haven’t gotten any updates yet.
It took 12 or 14 days from DHL label created to my door. Updates were only available like 2 days before the delivery day.
It's pretty normal. There were not update in between.
-
that's the way it is, my shipping label was created on November 9th and according to DHL the package should arrive today, November 18th ;D
-
The box arrived last Wednesday. As of today, I still need to trim the fork and brake lines, connect brake lines to the drifters and bleed same, wrap the handlebars, and calibrate the derailleurs.
Build includes: Wheeltop EDS TX group; Magene PES powermeter crank; 105 11spd 11x34 cassette; KMC chain; old Look Keo pedals; mid-range carbon gravel wheels from LightCarbon/Pro-X; 30mm Vittoria Corsa Pro tube-type tires (until I decide on something wider), Baent TPU tubes, an Aspide saddle copy (don't know yet if it'll be comfortable); a carbon bottle cage; stock seat-post, handlebars & computer mount. First time using electronic shifting - still not sure if that's the direction I'll go long term (I have too many devices to charge as it is).
With the storage cover installed, no computer, tools, spares, water bottle, in a 56cm, weight comes at 8.1kg. Trimming the seat-post and adding bar tape should wash, so this is probably the correct long-term weight, with which I'm quite satisfied. I imagine a lighter group, crankset, and wheels could drop 0.5kg and still be reliable under my weight (85kg). I doubt I'll explore that, however, because that's a lot of money for less that the weight of a second water bottle.
Anyhow, it didn't happen. without pictures, eh:.
-
The box arrived last Wednesday. As of today, I still need to trim the fork and brake lines, connect brake lines to the drifters and bleed same, wrap the handlebars, and calibrate the derailleurs.
Build includes: Wheeltop EDS TX group; Magene PES powermeter crank; 105 11spd 11x34 cassette; KMC chain; old Look Keo pedals; mid-range carbon gravel wheels from LightCarbon/Pro-X; 30mm Vittoria Corsa Pro tube-type tires (until I decide on something wider), Baent TPU tubes, an Aspide saddle copy (don't know yet if it'll be comfortable); a carbon bottle cage; stock seat-post, handlebars & computer mount. First time using electronic shifting - still not sure if that's the direction I'll go long term (I have too many devices to charge as it is).
With the storage cover installed, no computer, tools, spares, water bottle, in a 56cm, weight comes at 8.1kg. Trimming the seat-post and adding bar tape should wash, so this is probably the correct long-term weight, with which I'm quite satisfied. I imagine a lighter group, crankset, and wheels could drop 0.5kg and still be reliable under my weight (85kg). I doubt I'll explore that, however, because that's a lot of money for less that the weight of a second water bottle.
Anyhow, it didn't happen. without pictures, eh:.
Nice.
I thought long about getting black or tan and decided to got the black ones. But i love the tan look.
-
Bike is going great so far and performing flawlessly - its been chucking it down here, so some really nasty conditions - the disc brakes really have came into their own on that one.
2 minor niggles, one wholly personal choice and one more technical.
1. Im definitely not a fan of the handlebars - the "rise" gives a very restricted, uncomfortable feeling (for me) when using the tops.
I've just ordered a Toseek handlebar with raw carbon finish which should match the frame brilliantly from Aliexpress so fingers crossed it will do the job. I was tempted by an Avian Falcon II, but couldn't justify the price.
2. The seatpost clamping mechanism is a pain - very badly laid out for tightening the bolts. Ive had to order a long bit specially for the job as there's no hope of getting a standard bit and torque wrench anywhere near those bolts.
Why oh why can everyone not implement the simple but brilliant 2 bolt system used by the likes of Giant? If there was a compatible seatpost that offered this I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but as the seatpost shape is proprietary I guess there's no chance of finding anything compatible.
Only a couple of small nitpicks, the bike overall has been superb - im looking forward to changing the bars and maybe removing most/all spacers on this fork to get a more racy position.
Im ordering a spare fork which I'll keep with about 25mm of spacers on for big endurance rides / events.
-
Just received pictures of my size 56 frame. Went for a modified eurobike design with Ferrari red decals. I will build it up with LightBicycle turbo 50 wheels with 30/32 mm gp5000 str and Ultegra r8170 group set.
-
Looks good! How long was it between placing order and getting the photos?
-
I placed my order July 4th
-
I placed my order July 4th
Oh wow! That's some impressive patience! ;-)
-
Just received pictures of my size 56 frame. Went for a modified eurobike design with Ferrari red decals. I will build it up with LightBicycle turbo 50 wheels with 30/32 mm gp5000 str and Ultegra r8170 group set.
Cool, that hopefully means I'll get my photos as well this week. Also a modified Eurobike design, with gold changed to dark grey, and featuring the brand name of the bicycles we produce. I work in a bicycle wholesale company that produces Avalon bicycles here in the Netherlands.
-
Crazy and totally excited, I just quickly snapped a few pictures with my phone from the new Lightcarbon LCR018 frame and I'm absolutely blown away by the quality 👌
Better pictures and more impressions will follow in the next few days 😁
-
Crazy and totally excited, I just quickly snapped a few pictures with my phone from the new Lightcarbon LCR018 frame and I'm absolutely blown away by the quality 👌
Better pictures and more impressions will follow in the next few days 😁
Looks great! I think this might be the first size 50 posted. Would you be able to get a frame weight? Looks like you have a pretty serious roster of bikes, looking forward to some comparisons.
-
Why isn't the LCR018 listed on their website (anymore)?
-
Why isn't the LCR018 listed on their website (anymore)?
Hey Patrick,
I don’t think it was ever listed on their website.
But it is included in their catalog, which you can download from their site:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/downloads/2025-2026%20LightCarbon%20Frame+Component%20Catalog%20-V2.pdf
-
Looks great! I think this might be the first size 50 posted. Would you be able to get a frame weight? Looks like you have a pretty serious roster of bikes, looking forward to some comparisons.
RAW Carbon matte Frame size 50 with storage compartment. Zero seatback seatpost. 38x90 handlebars.
-
Why isn't the LCR018 listed on their website (anymore)?
From what I heard from my sales rep, they are waiting to list on the website because demand is already so high they are trying to catch up with current orders before advertising widely it's availability.
-
What size would people recommend for someone 169cm tall and 73cm inseam? I'm guessing 52? Trying to get a frame for my girlfriend but it'll be her first road bike. We had tried out the Fuji Transonic 2.1 in 54cm that seemed to fit pretty well, and it seems like the LCR018 in 52 is pretty close.
-
What size would people recommend for someone 169cm tall and 73cm inseam? I'm guessing 52? Trying to get a frame for my girlfriend but it'll be her first road bike. We had tried out the Fuji Transonic 2.1 in 54cm that seemed to fit pretty well, and it seems like the LCR018 in 52 is pretty close.
Lots of people ask this kind of question. But any answer isn't better than no answer. And many people will be reluctant to advise you based on the information provided. A couple of things to keep in mind when figuring out her fit:
- A 54 is not a 54 is not a 54. Depending on the brand (assuming they even use numeric sizing) a given seat-tube length may refer to different things. Some folks measure the seat tube at its top, or at the top of where the top-tube joins the seat-tube, or at where the center-line of the top-tube joins the seat-tube. In the past it was easier because (essentially) all top-tube were horizontal, and frame sizes were available in 1 or 2cm increments. Now days, particularly with the cost of molds, fewer sizes are typically available, typically leaving us with more difference between sizes and and a narrower range from small to large.
- Lots of people like to fit using stack and reach, but these are measured from the BB and ignore the angles of the seat and head tubes. So this doesn't directly correlate to how ones body is configured. But it hints at one of the key factors to basic fit: the relationship between the length the riders legs and the length of their torso varies.
- This means that leg length and height aren't sufficient to fit your girlfriend. If you find a bike with a position that is comfortable for her, its possible to work backwards by measuring from the bars to the seat; and center of the saddle to center of the handlebar.
- Also of concern is the rider's flexibility, both physical and mental. Some riders, even new riders, are comfortable down low like a time-trialist, right from the start. Others will never get into that position. And many will start more upright and work their way lower with experience and training.
Someone on a forum won't know as well as you your girlfriends physical abilities and goals for purchasing a road bike. Try going back to a bike shop, and see what feels good for her. Then measure saddle height, saddle to handlebar reach, and drop from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars. Those are working measures that will get you off on the right foot.
The LCR018 has some flexibility for fitting (perhaps you've already noticed) including 0mm and 15mm setbacks for the seat(post) and a wide range of available handlebar width/(stem)lengths for an integrated handlebar. So if you have her in the right size, there are a good range of options to fine tune it for her.
Good Luck!
-
What size would people recommend for someone 169cm tall and 73cm inseam? I'm guessing 52? Trying to get a frame for my girlfriend but it'll be her first road bike. We had tried out the Fuji Transonic 2.1 in 54cm that seemed to fit pretty well, and it seems like the LCR018 in 52 is pretty close.
I'm 168 cm tall with an inseam of 78 cm and I wore a size 50. A 52 would be way too high for your girlfriend ::)
-
Found a 1x drivetrain build on Facebook..... Looks quite nice!
Spec: 1x setup using SRAM Rival E1 brifters, SRAM Red XPLR E1 13-speed cassette and derailleur, and the Force Aero crankset with power meter.
6.9kg without pedals.
The owner is 179cm and took size 54. I'm 184cm with 88cm inside leg length and think about ordering size 58. Too large frame size?
I did a comparison with my old TanTan GR040 (s. attached picture). Looks like LightCarbon in size 58 is even smaller than my old one, possible?
-
What's the current waiting time for them to make the frame? Still 40-50 days? I wonder if I order now, I would receive it before Chinese New Year?
-
What's the current waiting time for them to make the frame? Still 40-50 days? I wonder if I order now, I would receive it before Chinese New Year?
I paid for my size 50 frame in raw carbon matte on October 8th and received it yesterday, November 18th, in Germany 8)
-
Is this the correct BB to order for the frame (to pair with a SRAM AXS 2x groupset)?
-
I paid for my size 50 frame in raw carbon matte on October 8th and received it yesterday, November 18th, in Germany 8)
Lucky Man ;D
Mine 52 Frame:
- 18th Jul. paid/ordered
- 28th Oct. finished painting
- 31th Oct. DHL Label created
- 1st Nov. in transit somewhere around the globe
- 10th Nov. arrived in north Germany
- 11th Nov. delivered to me in south Germany
-
Does a derailleur hanger come with the frame? If not, which one from Ali is good? And the in-frame storage comes with a little pouch?
-
It comes with a "light" UDH hanger.
And for the pouch, i think it's 10$ extra when ordering.
The first few orders might got it by default, but better ask or check the PO which you will get from Light Carbon.
-
My order (earlier this month) included UDH & a pouch, I paid $10 extra for a second spare pouch.
-
If anyone is interested and wants to have their frame super quickly I'm willing to sell my 56 cm frame in raw carbon matte with only front laser light carbon decal. It's already on the way from Lightcarbon. Price is what I bought it for + shipping anywhere in europe (~20 EUR). I waited around 3 months since my order for this frame.
I want to buy the same frame but with more colors :D DM me for more details.
FYI I'm 181 cm tall with 88 cm inseam.
-
Thanks for the sizing recs! Jim is recommending a 47 so that would match up with what you guys are thinking. I was looking at the sizing charts on GeometryGeeks and I was trying to find the frame that would match the Fuji the best but I guess that was deceiving!
-
I know some have ordered the $15 BB with the bike. Has anyone gone with the cema BB they offer for $85? Not a lot of details online but the little bit there is, seems to be a good BB.
-
I know some have ordered the $15 BB with the bike. Has anyone gone with the cema BB they offer for $85? Not a lot of details online but the little bit there is, seems to be a good BB.
Yes I ordered the cheap one but then started looking round and wondered if it was 'too cheap' and maybe i'd be better off fitting a better, branded one (I'm not at the point where I want to spend £200 on a ceramicspeed one!)
-
I have a few more weights for you ;D
The headset bearings are 52x40x7 & 45° inside and 45° outside. I have no idea if they're any good, but I'll probably swap them for some from Enduro.
-
Yes I ordered the cheap one but then started looking round and wondered if it was 'too cheap' and maybe i'd be better off fitting a better, branded one (I'm not at the point where I want to spend £200 on a ceramicspeed one!)
That was my concern, I feel like the $15 is cheap and not the best choice. I am gong to test out the $85 CEMA ceramic option they have
-
Hey guys. Can anyone who has build or has a frame in hand confirm what length bolts are needed for both front and rear ultegra hydraulic brakes? Picked up a barely used ultegra groupset while awaiting my frame but didn't receive bolts and want to order the correct tlength ones before the frame arrives.
-
Hey guys. Can anyone who has build or has a frame in hand confirm what length bolts are needed for both front and rear ultegra hydraulic brakes? Picked up a barely used ultegra groupset while awaiting my frame but didn't receive bolts and want to order the correct tlength ones before the frame arrives.
Front: M5x15 and rear: M5x35 when using 140mm break disc, otherwise, the rear bolts will be correspondingly longer.
-
Look what an early santa left on my porch in Size 54 8)
-
Is this the correct BB to order for the frame (to pair with a SRAM AXS 2x groupset)?
That's the exact one I was looking at from Tweeks Cycles. I think that's about the best price in the UK right now. Assuming that the AXS crank is a DUB size, this should be the one. I'll be using mine with a Magene 2x.
-
That's the exact one I was looking at from Tweeks Cycles. I think that's about the best price in the UK right now. Assuming that the AXS crank is a DUB size, this should be the one. I'll be using mine with a Magene 2x.
Cool, thanks - am planning to get the Force AXS E1 2x groupset & Rival E1 power meter crank also from Tweek; again they seem to be the best UK price currently, will add the BB to the shopping list.
-
The headset bearings are 52x40x7 & 45° inside and 45° outside.
Do you happen to have a link for the correct ones from Enduro handy? Thank you!
-
The code you need to look for in general is MH-P16 but from Enduro
https://cycling.endurobearings.com/collections/headset-bearings?pf_t_bearing_type=Type%3AAngular-Contact&pf_t_inner_diameter=ID%3A40mm&pf_t_outer_diameter=OD%3A52mm+%28also+replaces+51.8mm+%26+51.9mm%29&pf_t_width=Width%3A7mm
-
Front: M5x15 and rear: M5x35 when using 140mm break disc, otherwise, the rear bolts will be correspondingly longer.
Thanks so much for replying and excuse my inexperienced here. If I want to run 160mm rotors on the rear I need to use the flat mount adapter for 140m frame? If I do do you know what length bolts I would then need?
-
Oh dang, I hope it's not 140mm discs. I assumed it was 160mm front and back so I bought a pair of 160mm discs!
-
Oh dang, I hope it's not 140mm discs. I assumed it was 160mm front and back so I bought a pair of 160mm discs!
No, the frame is designed for 140mm discs at the rear, and an adapter is needed for 160mm Disc 😬
-
Hualicopter:
Yeah that is ok frame is usually made for 140mm, if you want to use 160mm you can buy adapter for that, bolt length is the same for both. Do you have shimano or sram?
-
Thanks for explaining this KRoser and Bike.Man
If I am to understand correctly then; If you fit the 140mm rotors, you will need the M5x35 bolt that goes right through the frame and directly into the caliper? And, if you fit 160mm rotors you will still need the same M5x35 bolts, plus the adaptor and M5x15 bolts?
Are the adaptors supplied with the LC018-D frameset?
-
cycloholic: Yeah that is basically it. Bolt length depends on frame thickness, Shimano supply bolts for 25mm frame thickenss (LCR018-D) should be that (can not confirm that on 100%, I dont have my frame yet :) ) as standard with calipers, if you need something else you need to buy separate and shimano rear 160mm adapter is sold separately also (Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D) it does not come with a frame.
so basically you just need to buy goupset with calipers and then just Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D adapter and you should have everything you will need.
I have no idea how Sram does it :).
-
SRAM include a few different lengths of stainless steel bolts.
They’re Torx which doesn’t suit everyone, but as they’re stainless so they don’t corrode.
-
SRAM include a few different lengths of stainless steel bolts.
They’re Torx which doesn’t suit everyone, but as they’re stainless so they don’t corrode.
Titanium doesn't rust either 🤪
-
what about 650b wheels on this frame? is there more clearance?
-
Titanium doesn't rust either 🤪
This is true 🤓
But we’re talking about what comes with SRAM.
I personally ditch anything steel and replace with Ti, just for corrosion resistance.
It also means I can swap all the bolts on my bikes so they’re either 4mm 5mm or 6mm, then I don’t have to carry stupid big multi tools.
-
No, the frame is designed for 140mm discs at the rear, and an adapter is needed for 160mm Disc 😬
This is helpful information, I had incorrectly ordered 2x 160 mm rotors. Thank you!
-
This is helpful information, I had incorrectly ordered 2x 160 mm rotors. Thank you!
You're not necessarily incorrect. The frame is simply designed to accept 140mm rotors like many road bikes. You just need to use the adaptor to fit 160mm discs at the back. This is what I will be doing.
-
You're not necessarily incorrect. The frame is simply designed to accept 140mm rotors like many road bikes. You just need to use the adaptor to fit 160mm discs at the back. This is what I will be doing.
So will I.
-
cycloholic: Yeah that is basically it. Bolt length depends on frame thickness, Shimano supply bolts for 25mm frame thickenss (LCR018-D) should be that (can not confirm that on 100%, I dont have my frame yet :) ) as standard with calipers, if you need something else you need to buy separate and shimano rear 160mm adapter is sold separately also (Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D) it does not come with a frame.
so basically you just need to buy goupset with calipers and then just Shimano SM-MA-R160D/D adapter and you should have everything you will need.
I have no idea how Sram does it :).
Thanks so much for clarifying that. Wasn't totally clear that bolt length was the same for both direct mount and adapter mount on the Shimano manual. Really cleared that up. Can't wait to get my frame now. Few more weeks hopefully! Have a 58 in chameleon hs08 incoming.
-
Finally placed my order after lurking since pre-production, going with size 52 raw glossy finish.
Additional lead time for customizations so will be 50 - 60 days out even with UPS Express.
Beyond excited to build this up with the new SRAM E1! Thanks to everyone for the detailed discussion, was a huge help during the ordering process.
-
Hualicopter:
Yeah that is ok frame is usually made for 140mm, if you want to use 160mm you can buy adapter for that, bolt length is the same for both. Do you have shimano or sram?
Ack. I bought SRAM. I’ll get some adapters then. Sorry for the confusion, so I need adapters for both the front and back? Or just the rear?
-
Ack. I bought SRAM. I’ll get some adapters then. Sorry for the confusion, so I need adapters for both the front and back? Or just the rear?
https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Adapter-Flat-Mount-20R-160-mm-hinten-mit-Edelstahlschrauben
https://r2-bike.com/SRAM-Adapter-Flat-Mount-0F-20F-140-160-mm-vorn-mit-Edelstahlschrauben
-
I bought one of these for my Gravel and the LC frame:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008970967530.html
But there are all kind of other options in design and a bit of weight:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009874260263.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008388662590.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008153848865.html
-
Ack. I bought SRAM. I’ll get some adapters then. Sorry for the confusion, so I need adapters for both the front and back? Or just the rear?
According to the drawings in the catalog, the front is a 160mm mount and the back a 140mm.
See the image, specific measurements marked in green.
-
I received photos of my frame. It is finished. There are 2 issues with the front fork though. They forgot a decal and there is a part of the design painted in another way. they are going to fix this the coming week. overall I'm pretty happy with how my altered Eurobike design worked out.
-
Hualicopter:
Front adapter is supplied as standard for both 140 and 160 mm with shimano and sram calipers, It is the same adapter just turn it upside down according if you want 140 or 160 so no worry about front.
Just for back you need buy separate adapter if you want 160mm
-
The code you need to look for in general is MH-P16 but from Enduro
https://cycling.endurobearings.com/collections/headset-bearings?pf_t_bearing_type=Type%3AAngular-Contact&pf_t_inner_diameter=ID%3A40mm&pf_t_outer_diameter=OD%3A52mm+%28also+replaces+51.8mm+%26+51.9mm%29&pf_t_width=Width%3A7mm
Please excuse this question if it sound silly; do I need two of these bearing for one headset?
-
Please excuse this question if it sound silly; do I need two of these bearing for one headset?
Yes - one for the top, one for the bottom.
Today I´ve recieved the pictures of my frameset. A bit more colorful then all these black beauties :)
Lets see how the decals shine in daylight - they should have the same color as the dropouts but look a bit darker. In the End, if I cant stand it, Ill get matching ones later on...
Its a 58 - should arrive in the next 15 days
-
Today I´ve recieved the pictures of my frameset. A bit more colorful then all these black beauties :)
Lets see how the decals shine in daylight - they should have the same color as the dropouts but look a bit darker. In the End, if I cant stand it, Ill get matching ones later on...
That is beautiful, congrats! Can't wait to see pictures when it is built up. Love the colours.
-
Really looking forward to see the color in daylight.
the white base is the LCB-7207
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/js/htmledit/kindeditor/attached/20230606/20230606171721_53266.jpg)
-
Sorry if already answered, has anyone tried max size gravel tires? What will fit and with which width rims? I went through the topic swiftly but could not find an answer...
-
Sorry if already answered, has anyone tried max size gravel tires? What will fit and with which width rims? I went through the topic swiftly but could not find an answer...
I uploaded a new video on YT 2 days ago where I show the available width front&back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zF3qWsjNdCw
YMMV: There might be combinations of Rim + tire that change the circumference, like my "35C" becomes 37mm diameter, also the wheel must be 100% true.
TL;DW: Front 43-45 no issue I suppose (37C + 11/12mm free), back: 46mm total gap between chainstays, take 2-3mm on each side, gives 40C.
-
Alright, hopefully I have everything ordered correctly now besides tubes and a brake bleed kit! Looking forward to the build.
Are most people replacing the headset bearings and getting their own BB? Or just using the OEM?
-
The BB i got with my LCR017 seems reasonable and at the moment (1500km) I'd look for one again (Gineyea). I've had genuine SRAM GXP BB's fail in far less time and mates have destroyed DUB BB's in a weekend.
-
Alright, hopefully I have everything ordered correctly now besides tubes and a brake bleed kit! Looking forward to the build.
Are most people replacing the headset bearings and getting their own BB? Or just using the OEM?
I just go with the default ones, also just have a "cheap" cactus BB, don't feel like i'm that much a rider to know or feel any difference at all.
Sure, it might don't last as other options, but that's what you have to keep in mind with the price tag.
-
Alright, hopefully I have everything ordered correctly now besides tubes and a brake bleed kit! Looking forward to the build.
Are most people replacing the headset bearings and getting their own BB? Or just using the OEM?
I am fitting a Token BB https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/token-bb47v29-t47-inboard-bottom-bracket
Enduro headset bearings; https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/enduro-acb-4545-150-ss-stainless-steel-bearings
Just looking for the best longevity - not really interested in a 1-2 watt saving. I don't want to be replacing bearings any more often than I have to.
-
I have ordered the standard BB which they offered to me, only 10$. Waiting for the frame and bb arrival, I have doubts about BB, maybe is really too cheap. I was wondering if it is possible to replace the bearing (with a ceramic ones) and if if it worth to do it. From lightcarbon replied "I think it's possible to replace the bearings ". What's your take on this?
-
Bearings can usually be pushed out from the alloy housing and replace.
For the hassle involved, just buy something else.
-
I have ordered the standard BB which they offered to me, only 10$. Waiting for the frame and bb arrival, I have doubts about BB, maybe is really too cheap. I was wondering if it is possible to replace the bearing (with a ceramic ones) and if if it worth to do it. From lightcarbon replied "I think it's possible to replace the bearings ". What's your take on this?
Thats the one they sell. I got the SRAM Dub version. Looking good. But havent riden it so far.
Exchanging bearings makes no sense imop. Buy a new one. I also think most of the ceramic stuff isnt really worth it.
-
Yea that's kind of my philosophy as well, I just want something durable, and I don't want to take apart the bike a ton. That said, a BB replacement is easy. Headset is kinda annoying.
-
58cm frame in UD matte black - should be getting shipped today (ordered 7th October)
Seeing some of the sweet looking paint jobs, I have some FOMO -> maybe for the next build!
-
I ordered a BB from Rotor for 36 euro + shipping cost.
They are having a Black Friday sale.
T47 24mm
https://rotorbike.com/en-eu/rotor-t4724-internal-bb.html
T47 DUB
https://rotorbike.com/en-eu/rotor-t4730-internal-bb.html
-
What kind of Km's you all expect from your BB?
1000km, 5000km, 10000km?
I'm just curious with my 1000-3000km riding per year :D
-
Well, the FSA PF30 I used in my Niner RLT9 was still good after 25.000KM. Soooo that’s the benchmark for me 😅
-
My frame arrived today. Size 56. Two colour, crystal red + crystal silver.
11 weeks from placing order.
-
My frame arrived today. Size 56. Two colour, crystal red + crystal silver.
11 weeks from placing order.
Very nice colors. The shadow on the downtube almost makes a third color, in a 3T color scheme.
-
Got confirmation my size 50 Ferrari Red frame is painted! Shipping soon, can't wait. Although Canadian winter, the bike won't touch pavement for a while.
-
My frame is ready for shipping. I have ordered (paid) on 19th of September (size 58). At that time they said that they will start production of 58 late October and that my frame is supposed to be ready for painting early November and for shipping late November.
So Lightcarbon is delivering to what was promised to me.
-
haw many people here are still waiting on 54 frames? seeing that painted 56's are shipping i hope its not much longer.
-
My frame is ready for shipping. I have ordered (paid) on 19th of September (size 58). At that time they said that they will start production of 58 late October and that my frame is supposed to be ready for painting early November and for shipping late November.
So Lightcarbon is delivering to what was promised to me.
Looking good! Which chameleon paint code is that?
-
Looking good! Which chameleon paint code is that?
LCB-01HS Chameleon 01HS
-
Hey all, does someone know what length of Di2 EW-SD300-I cable I need for the front and rear derailleur using Shimano Di2? I ordered a size 52 frame. Thank you for your response. :)
-
I've got a 52 frame on order, and I'm planning on using a 750mm front derailier cable, and a 1250mm for the rear. The battery is in the seatpost, so my thinking is that there needs to be enough slack to fully pull the seatpost out for access.
-
What groupset are you guys pairing with the LCR018-D? I'm new to building up a bike from scratch and past bikes are have all been mechanical.
Considering L-Twoo ER9 Version 3.
Yes/No/Maybe so?
-
What groupset are you guys pairing with the LCR018-D? I'm new to building up a bike from scratch and past bikes are have all been mechanical.
Considering L-Twoo ER9 Version 3.
Yes/No/Maybe so?
Don’t go L twoo
-
Finally i got on the bike for a short 10k test ride. The weather here in south Germany at the moment is just grey and cold.
I ride my Cube Nuroad Gravel for three years now and only had a second old Peugeot Retro Road Bike for some short rides.
Recently my GF bought a Liv EnviLiv Advanced, which is quite similar from the geometry and position for me.
So i don't have a ton of different and many riding experience with a lot of bikes.
But what i felt yesterday was, that the frame is quite flexi?
As soon i stood up for some sprinting, the brake rotor rubbed against the brake pads. Sure the wheels have also some flex in it, but since the rotor is mounted on the axle the rubbing would come from the brake caliper moving?
Even during the seat post adjustment at home, i saw quite a flex at the BB when standing on one pedal.
But the brake calipers have a bit more room to move them a bit on the mounting position.
On the other hand, it just feels fast for me ;D
Compared to the Liv, it's a bit less "aggressive" riding, i mean the feeling when turning and the overall handling when you try to ride hands free. It's a bit more stable.
Compared to my Gravel, it's very unstable and aggressive/responsive ;D
I'm pretty happy with the bike :)
Components working fine for now.
Only the front chainrings are quite "loud" compared to the 2x12 105 from the Liv.
Build overview:
- Elitewheels AERO+ with 34mm VITTORIA Rubino / RideNow TPU tubes
- Wheeltop EDS TX with upgraded new soft rubber hoods
- ZRACE XG Flat Mount Caliper
- RT-MT800 160/140mm Brake rotors
- ZTTO Ultralight SLR Gen3 Cassette 11x 11-36T
- KMC X11SL chain, waxed
- Kactus Ceramic BB T47-DUB
- RIRO Carbon Crankset (DUB) 165mm with 52-36T
- Shimano PD-ES600 pedals
- RYET 3D Printed Saddle in white
- (not installed yet) Cheap MOTSUV Carbon texture bar tape in white
- (ordered) Titanium bolts for seat post, headset cap, brakes and brake pads safety-pin/screw (the default one from the XG calipers are too short and don't have any safety clip :o)
Weight was around 7.6kg
Find some pictures here, still had to take some in good weather:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
-
Don’t go L twoo
Becouse?
-
Couple of quick updates.
Just received my Toseek handlebars - they look good and the finish should match in with the bike nicely.
The really great point is that they use the exact same spacers, so that makes life very easy for the install.
I also ordered a fancy looking Garmin mount from Aliexpress on sale for Black Friday which ties in with the colours of all the bolts on the bike, so that'll be a nice touch too.
One point to note - I got bottle cages from Lightcarbon when ordering the LCR018-D - these are a sloppy fit on my standard bottles and are causing a lot of rattling. I think I'll just replace them rather than start adding tape or something to address the sloppiness.
**Update to this - tried another bottle cage today and still rattling, so it must be coming from the cage against the little metal door. Will try some rubber washers under the cage.
(https://i.ibb.co/QjcVm9wk/IMG-1510-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/xtghPKDL/IMG-1511-Large.jpg)
-
Finally i got on the bike for a short 10k test ride. The weather here in south Germany at the moment is just grey and cold.
I ride my Cube Nuroad Gravel for three years now and only had a second old Peugeot Retro Road Bike for some short rides.
Recently my GF bought a Liv EnviLiv Advanced, which is quite similar from the geometry and position for me.
So i don't have a ton of different and many riding experience with a lot of bikes.
But what i felt yesterday was, that the frame is quite flexi?
As soon i stood up for some sprinting, the brake rotor rubbed against the brake pads. Sure the wheels have also some flex in it, but since the rotor is mounted on the axle the rubbing would come from the brake caliper moving?
Even during the seat post adjustment at home, i saw quite a flex at the BB when standing on one pedal.
But the brake calipers have a bit more room to move them a bit on the mounting position.
On the other hand, it just feels fast for me ;D
Compared to the Liv, it's a bit less "aggressive" riding, i mean the feeling when turning and the overall handling when you try to ride hands free. It's a bit more stable.
Compared to my Gravel, it's very unstable and aggressive/responsive ;D
I'm pretty happy with the bike :)
Components working fine for now.
Only the front chainrings are quite "loud" compared to the 2x12 105 from the Liv.
Build overview:
- Elitewheels AERO+ with 34mm VITTORIA Rubino / RideNow TPU tubes
- Wheeltop EDS TX with upgraded new soft rubber hoods
- ZRACE XG Flat Mount Caliper
- RT-MT800 160/140mm Brake rotors
- ZTTO Ultralight SLR Gen3 Cassette 11x 11-36T
- KMC X11SL chain, waxed
- Kactus Ceramic BB T47-DUB
- RIRO Carbon Crankset (DUB) 165mm with 52-36T
- Shimano PD-ES600 pedals
- RYET 3D Printed Saddle in white
- (not installed yet) Cheap MOTSUV Carbon texture bar tape in white
- (ordered) Titanium bolts for seat post, headset cap, brakes and brake pads safety-pin/screw (the default one from the XG calipers are too short and don't have any safety clip :o)
Weight was around 7.6kg
Find some pictures here, still had to take some in good weather:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Some great pictures in your collection.
Interesting point about frame flexibility. Is anyone else feeling this?
If you’re 58kg, probably not, but if you’re 75kg+ could you comment.
Also those putting out decent watts, are you feeling any meaningful flex up hill or sprinting?
-
Some great pictures in your collection.
Interesting point about frame flexibility. Is anyone else feeling this?
If you’re 58kg, probably not, but if you’re 75kg+ could you comment.
Also those putting out decent watts, are you feeling any meaningful flex up hill or sprinting?
I am 75 kg and made a ride of 40 km yesterday with carbon spokes wheelset from Tagoola and I did not have any disc rubbing.
I will make some max sprints this weekend and let you know if this happens.
-
Just to add a bit info, i don't have this much of riding experience that i feel small differences of a bike. Maybe if the geometry is completely different, yes, but otherwise it's just ride as any other bike.
The thing with the brake caliper could also be a wobbly rotor and a slightly off position of the caliper itself. When adjusted a bit, maybe the rubbing goes away.
I would have to give the bike to a more "pro" rider to tell me if it is flexible or stiff.
So everybody take my post just as my opinion and not a statement on the frame itself is flexible or not. :D
BTW, I'm around 78-80kg and had some winter shoes and few layers of cloths yesterday ;)
-
What groupset are you guys pairing with the LCR018-D? I'm new to building up a bike from scratch and past bikes are have all been mechanical.
Considering L-Twoo ER9 Version 3.
Yes/No/Maybe so?
I went Shimano Ultegra as i fit the budget but did some shopping around for a deal. Merlin in the UK had a great price and was substantially cheaper than anything local (Canada). Although I was originally considering Wheeltop. When comparing quality/longevity of some parts and having to buy other items to complete the wheeltop groupset, there was not much difference between shimano 105 and wheeeltop. Then when I compared the price difference for Ultegra, I went for that. Had I stayed at 105, I think there was a $50 difference between wheeltop and 105, with how I planned to build it up. Can be done cheaper but then shifting quality and longevity will be sacrificed.
-
Finally i got on the bike for a short 10k test ride. The weather here in south Germany at the moment is just grey and cold.
I ride my Cube Nuroad Gravel for three years now and only had a second old Peugeot Retro Road Bike for some short rides.
Recently my GF bought a Liv EnviLiv Advanced, which is quite similar from the geometry and position for me.
So i don't have a ton of different and many riding experience with a lot of bikes.
But what i felt yesterday was, that the frame is quite flexi?
As soon i stood up for some sprinting, the brake rotor rubbed against the brake pads. Sure the wheels have also some flex in it, but since the rotor is mounted on the axle the rubbing would come from the brake caliper moving?
Even during the seat post adjustment at home, i saw quite a flex at the BB when standing on one pedal.
But the brake calipers have a bit more room to move them a bit on the mounting position.
On the other hand, it just feels fast for me ;D
Compared to the Liv, it's a bit less "aggressive" riding, i mean the feeling when turning and the overall handling when you try to ride hands free. It's a bit more stable.
Compared to my Gravel, it's very unstable and aggressive/responsive ;D
I'm pretty happy with the bike :)
Components working fine for now.
Only the front chainrings are quite "loud" compared to the 2x12 105 from the Liv.
Build overview:
- Elitewheels AERO+ with 34mm VITTORIA Rubino / RideNow TPU tubes
- Wheeltop EDS TX with upgraded new soft rubber hoods
- ZRACE XG Flat Mount Caliper
- RT-MT800 160/140mm Brake rotors
- ZTTO Ultralight SLR Gen3 Cassette 11x 11-36T
- KMC X11SL chain, waxed
- Kactus Ceramic BB T47-DUB
- RIRO Carbon Crankset (DUB) 165mm with 52-36T
- Shimano PD-ES600 pedals
- RYET 3D Printed Saddle in white
- (not installed yet) Cheap MOTSUV Carbon texture bar tape in white
- (ordered) Titanium bolts for seat post, headset cap, brakes and brake pads safety-pin/screw (the default one from the XG calipers are too short and don't have any safety clip :o)
Weight was around 7.6kg
Find some pictures here, still had to take some in good weather:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Thanks for the review! Hope you enjoy the bike. Did you get any rattles from storage door? A few pages ago someone mentioned on their YouTube video that they had to add some tape to stop it from rattling.
-
Hi to everyone, I'm new here. I Just ordered a frame size 50! I'll let you know guys, that's my third Lightcarbon built up in few years.. looking forward to it.
I'm gonna build up as an endurance/light gravel set up, 2x with Rival 46-33 10-36, hope is going to be fine with 388mm tyre.
-
Thanks for the review! Hope you enjoy the bike. Did you get any rattles from storage door? A few pages ago someone mentioned on their YouTube video that they had to add some tape to stop it from rattling.
Nope, you can see on the pictures that there is a small foam rubber lip around the inside edge of the door and it's pretty thigh with it.
-
Couple of quick updates.
Just received my Toseek handlebars - they look good and the finish should match in with the bike nicely.
The really great point is that they use the exact same spacers, so that makes life very easy for the install.
Can you give us a link from where did you buy it, im interested in this option also, the LC handlebar dont look "right" to me also.
-
Can you give us a link from where did you buy it, im interested in this option also, the LC handlebar dont look "right" to me also.
No problem, I bought them here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009420089808.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.45.7cb81802EKZqte
Crazy cheap during this sale period. Haven't had a chance to fit as yet, but hoping all will be ok.
Actually considering sanding down to raw carbon and lacquering to match the frame before fitting - ive done this with Giant bars before and its a lovely finish.
-
Nope, you can see on the pictures that there is a small foam rubber lip around the inside edge of the door and it's pretty thigh with it.
What page was this on Bender?
Curious, as ive just been looking at my storage door, and I think that is what is indeed causing the rattle I am having.
There is a small bit of foam on the bottom of the door, but nothing at the top which is where I assume the rattling is happening.
I wonder have they added more in recent builds?
I will have to find a suitably thin layer of something to cut and try on the top edge to see if it makes a difference.
Mine had been quiet for the first 3 weeks, but now is rattling to an annoying level on anything other than smooth road. Tried tightening the mechanism but that didn't help.
-
No problem, I bought them here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009420089808.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.45.7cb81802EKZqte
Crazy cheap during this sale period. Haven't had a chance to fit as yet, but hoping all will be ok.
Actually considering sanding down to raw carbon and lacquering to match the frame before fitting - ive done this with Giant bars before and its a lovely finish.
I know you wanted a lower front end, just looking at the numbers and the new bar should drop it 18mm.
Will you still need a new fork?
-
Becouse?
It's shit
-
It's shit
Great opinion! Thanks!
-
I know you wanted a lower front end, just looking at the numbers and the new bar should drop it 18mm.
Will you still need a new fork?
Yes, well spotted!
I have an extra fork on the way anyway - always very handy to have.
I’ll probably start by just changing the bars over and seeing how that feels, but possibly could lower by another 10mm for a proper racy setup.
It’s really great having the flexibility and options to do all this - I’ll keep the HBR17 - between it and the 2 forks and the new bars, there are so many different setup options available which is fantastic as I have a few varied goals and events planned for the next year.
-
What page was this on Bender?
Curious, as ive just been looking at my storage door, and I think that is what is indeed causing the rattle I am having.
There is a small bit of foam on the bottom of the door, but nothing at the top which is where I assume the rattling is happening.
I wonder have they added more in recent builds?
I will have to find a suitably thin layer of something to cut and try on the top edge to see if it makes a difference.
Mine had been quiet for the first 3 weeks, but now is rattling to an annoying level on anything other than smooth road. Tried tightening the mechanism but that didn't help.
Check these two pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MbaisN6jFeebxeoE7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SRL3918qJC61hXe7A
There is the foam and a harder rubber on the top part of the door.
-
Please see the image below. The red line indicates where the metal part of the cover contacts the metal on the door frame. We usually attach sound insulation cotton to this area. Please check if it is missing or damaged. You can use new sound insulation cotton or thin tape with foam to attach it. Please note that the adhesive layer should not be too thick, otherwise it may damage the handle of the cover.
Jim Lee--LightCarbon
-
In addition, some buyers have previously reported problems with the the locker of the cover. Please note that you should not use excessive force when locking the cover; be sure to operate it correctly. Otherwise, you may damage the locking mechanism.
-
Don’t go L twoo
G Thanks Yanger! Care to enlighten us or just waste everyones time??
-
If anyone is interested: 35mm Michelin Pro 5 on 21mm internal rim gives a 34mm wide tire. I mounted them on a Novatec R5 wheel set.
Total weight front wheel incl 160mm disc, valve and apr. 60ml tire sealant 1165gr.
Total eight rear wheel incl 140m rotor , valve and apr 60ml tire sealant 1340gr
I did not weigh the wheels before mounting the tires since I did not have a scale at work, but:
Michelin Pro 5: 395gr,
VMX rotor from AliExpress front 160mm 145 gr rear 140mm 116gr.
60gr (roughly) sealant
Wheels just under 1400 gr with valves installed. I think that is a nice weight.
Just heard from Wendy that the repaint of my fork will be done this Wednesday, and then everything will be shipped. So I might just have it just before Christmas.
-
What groupset are you guys pairing with the LCR018-D? I'm new to building up a bike from scratch and past bikes are have all been mechanical.
Considering L-Twoo ER9 Version 3.
Yes/No/Maybe so?
I'll be installing a SRAM Force D1 1x12 AXS groupset. Probably will change the 38T ring for a larger 42T or 44T Garabaruk chainring. I chose this simply because I could get it cheaply. Same for the wheelset.
Otherwise, I would have gone for a 1x13 Rivel XPLR groupset.
-
Test ride review to come tomorrow.
-
Test ride review to come tomorrow.
Looking great - congratulations!
Just ordered a set of Aero Raptors myself, so will be interested to hear what you think of them.
-
Test ride review to come tomorrow.
Really like the blue tape and bag to add a dash of colour! Looks sweet 8)
All these pictures make me excited to build mine up. Although between everything, I am likely 2 months aways from building as I have more to order and 5 months from riding it due to winter. :(
-
Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?
-
Looking great - congratulations!
Just ordered a set of Aero Raptors myself, so will be interested to hear what you think of them.
Thanks ! Which configuration did you choose ?
Tagoola has been my prefered brand now. Never disappointed. I will ride for the first time carbon spokes.
-
What groupset are you guys pairing with the LCR018-D? I'm new to building up a bike from scratch and past bikes are have all been mechanical.
I’m taking the group set off my gravel bike and putting it on this and getting a 1x setup for the gravel bike.
This bike will have a mix of 105, Ultegra, and GRX di2 with Ican wheels
-
Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?
Maybe check the frame dimensions? I think the frame should have 12.5mm width according to the UDH drawings.
See 2nd page on the right side.
https://www.universalderailleurhanger.com/downloads/90-7518-190-000_E9_RELEASED.pdf
-
Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?
Please update us when you’ve resolved the issue. A few pages back there was a picture of a bike with XPLR 13, so it’s clearly possible.
I just don’t know the answer
-
Also placed an order today for a size 52, chameleon 01HS paintwork (was surprised it's only 25$ extra compared to a single color paint), T47 BB, extra UDH hanger and a bag for the inner tube storage compartment.
Total was 1044$ USD including shipping to Canada and paypal fees.
FYI Jim from Lightcarbon told me that they expect to raise the price of the frame at the end of the year due to recent increases in raw material prices.
pics with the chameleon paint?
-
Mine (size 50…) is also painted an on its way to Germany… let’s see when it arrives…
-
That’s a nice pint job!
-
Test ride review to come tomorrow.
How was the test ride? I saw that you're selling it?
-
The ride is so much smooth and the frame feels stiff at the same time. I think that it also comes from the wheels. I love carbon spokes wheelset.
I did not have any disc rubbing even during some sprints. Because of the "high stack", it is easier to stay in aero position. I feel that I can put and keep more power during flat and climbing than with a bike with a lower stack.
I don't think that it is less aero than a Propel for example but I don't have a powermeter to confirm this (yet).
It is also very stable in descent (max 66 km/h) and the frame feels very reliable and durable.
The only thing where it lacks a little is when sprinting. Maybe it is because of the high wheelbase, but it feels less snappy than a racing bike.
The handlebar is also stiff and I love the shape.
I registered to 3 full Ironman (only one with the label and the 2 others without it because of the price 😅). I need to build a dedicate TT bike.
Would I recommand this LCR018 ? Yes totally, it has everything that a bike needs to have for 90 % of people. For people who make a lot of sprints, It is not the perfect choice but the ride is so smooth and it goes fast. The clearance, UDH, T47, seapost with/without setback are a big advantage for thé bike.
Last thing : Some people asked me where the bike comes from. It has a good looking ;).
-
pics with the chameleon paint?
Frame is currently on it's way. Here's a screenshot from the video I got from Jim. The lightning setup in the room doesn't do justice to the paint color IMO.
(https://i.ibb.co/GQvT9s33/01hs.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GQvT9s33)
-
Even after tightening my SRAM XPLR derailleur, I can still move the right chainstay 🫣
Does anyone else have this problem?
I don't have that problem with my (not SRAM) derailleur.
1) It looks like you haven't a cassette installed yet, but that is the axle end of your rear hub, yes?
2) The silver bit on the inside of the dropout looks poorly machined - note how uneven the serrations are. I'm not sure I'd be quick to trust its trueness to spec.
3) Having no experience with UDH, the fit of my hanger seemed too tight at first go. Research on the subject explained that was necessary to prevent forward rotation of the derailleur except in the case of an accident. So I torqued to spec and the the mount fit perfectly into the frame. I was using the UDH hanger from LightCarbon which I think is a very nicely engineered and manufactured part. I trust its specs. BTW it only weighs 20gm, confirmed on two examples, each on two different scales.
4) Is XPLR a direct mount derailleur (that is, not a UDH derailleur)? Are you using a SRAM conversion mount to make XPLR work on a UDH frame? If torquing to spec doesn't fix your problem, I'd go back to the mfg of you hanger and seek help from them.
-
I don't have that problem with my (not SRAM) derailleur.
1) It looks like you haven't a cassette installed yet, but that is the axle end of your rear hub, yes?
2) The silver bit on the inside of the dropout looks poorly machined - note how uneven the serrations are. I'm not sure I'd be quick to trust its trueness to spec.
3) Having no experience with UDH, the fit of my hanger seemed too tight at first go. Research on the subject explained that was necessary to prevent forward rotation of the derailleur except in the case of an accident. So I torqued to spec and the the mount fit perfectly into the frame. I was using the UDH hanger from LightCarbon which I think is a very nicely engineered and manufactured part. I trust its specs. BTW it only weighs 20gm, confirmed on two examples, each on two different scales.
4) Is XPLR a direct mount derailleur (that is, not a UDH derailleur)? Are you using a SRAM conversion mount to make XPLR work on a UDH frame? If torquing to spec doesn't fix your problem, I'd go back to the mfg of you hanger and seek help from them.
🙄
-
A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)
To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd
My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.
-
A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)
To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd
My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.
Thank you. I wrote something similar but more grumpy so decided to delete it 😂.
SRAM derailleur tolerances are very good in my experience, so it’s probably the frame, unless it hasn’t been torqued yet.
I don’t have a mech to hand, but I probably will tomorrow and can measure it.
If you can do the same, we can hopefully pinpoint the error.
As the image is so large it makes the issue to worse. I think the gap is probably 2-3mm but still something that shouldn’t be there.
I haven’t yet ordered my frame as I’ve been waiting for someone to fit a UDH. If anyone else has fitted a UDH, did you have any issues?
-
Which Derailleur you want to use, I’m happy to do a full on T-Type test when my frame arrives ;)
-
I’ll be using a Force or Red, haven’t decided yet.
I’d be grateful for an more experienced opinion from someone who has the frame and mech in hand 😀
-
I can give you a quick interim report. I have the frame and a Sram Rival XPLR E1 group. I had provisionally mounted the rear derailleur and it was wobbly. After measuring the frame, I found that it was a few millimeters outside the tolerance specified in the official Sram description (12.5 mm +/- 0.2) (measured 12.1 mm). I then tightened the derailleur to 35 Nm and it seems to be sitting correctly. However, I couldn't complete the installation because I'm still waiting for my wheelset. As already mentioned, the installation instructions from Sram should be followed meticulously.
I'll be happy to update you when I'm further along with my build.
-
Just got a message from wendy, my size 58 frame is ready for shipment!
-
Test ride review to come tomorrow.
congrats, that's awesome! I noticed you have maxxis Highroad, for me Is the first time I buy a set, yesterday I try to install them but It was so difficult to put them on. I am afraid If I get a flat during a ride might be a problem fix It. Was it easy to install them for you?
-
Just got a message from wendy, my size 58 frame is ready for shipment!
McLaren papaya fan? :D
-
congrats, that's awesome! I noticed you have maxxis Highroad, for me Is the first time I buy a set, yesterday I try to install them but It was so difficult to put them on. I am afraid If I get a flat during a ride might be a problem fix It. Was it easy to install them for you?
Is it also the gen 3 in 30c (tubetype) for you ? Yes, it was very easy on my Tagoola wheels. Maybe 2 minutes per tire without any tools. FYI, I use boostor TPU tubes.
-
Can someone please give me a link to the right bb-tool you need for the T47 BB?
Thanks!!!! :)
-
Can someone please give me a link to the right bb-tool you need for the T47 BB?
Thanks!!!! :)
I asume you want a tool for the bb LC themselves provide. You need one with a diameter of 49 mm and 16 teeth
-
I asume you want a tool for the bb LC themselves provide. You need one with a diameter of 49 mm and 16 teeth
Thanks! I thought i needed this one, thanks for the confirmation!
-
Wondering if anyone managed to fit in a 40mm tyre?
Best to everyone, great topics and community
-
Just got a message from wendy, my size 58 frame is ready for shipment!
What colour is that?
-
What colour is that?
orange pantone 151C
-
Wondering if anyone managed to fit in a 40mm tyre?
Best to everyone, great topics and community
Yes, ZIPP 303 XPLR & Goodyear Slick 40mm ;D
-
Painting is done.
Love this paint job!
-
Can someone please give me a link to the right bb-tool you need for the T47 BB?
You'll want both of these items https://imgur.com/QA8GMnY from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.103.797a1802IUnXzU
-
Yes, ZIPP 303 XPLR & Goodyear Slick 40mm ;D
Did you get the rear mech sorted?
-
Did you get the rear mech sorted?
I think so. If you tighten it to 35 Nm, the gap seems to disappear ::)
-
58cm UD matte frame arrived yesterday afternoon.
Very rough, late night, dry fit to check black on tan colour scheme.
A comms mix up in BB size supplied by LC will push back first ride a little bit, but looking forward to getting stuck into the build.
-
You'll want both of these items https://imgur.com/QA8GMnY from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.103.797a1802IUnXzU
I have to check if my bb has 12 or 16 teeth. Otherwise this one will not work. I only see 50mm with 16 teeth, no 49mm with 16 teeth only with 12 teeth. Not sure why but maybe a 50mm will also work?
Thanks for helping out!
-
I have to check if my bb has 12 or 16 teeth. Otherwise this one will not work. I only see 50mm with 16 teeth, no 49mm with 16 teeth only with 12 teeth. Not sure why but maybe a 50mm will also work?
Thanks for helping out!
You can have a look at one of my previous post. I answered it. If you have bought the BB from LC, you can take the 50mm-16T.
-
You can have a look at one of my previous post. I answered it. If you have bought the BB from LC, you can take the 50mm-16T.
Yeah i have the bb from senicx. Not sure how many teeth since i can't find that information online on my working pc. Will check it at home.
-
Yes, ZIPP 303 XPLR & Goodyear Slick 40mm ;D
Can you measure the real width of those tires on that rim, please? Using a caliper, if possible... Thanks!
-
I'll be building mine soon. I plan on making a 1x12/13 groupset. If anyone has done the same thing, I'd be interested to hear what parts you used. (sram, wheeltop, Ltwoo)
-
Quick question for those with a 52 and an in-line seatpost.
Would you mind measuring from the centre of the bb to the top of the seatpost cradle when the post is inserted to its minimum mark.
I need to make sure I can get a 74cm saddle hight without going past the minimum insertion.
Many thanks
-
I'll be building mine soon. I plan on making a 1x12/13 groupset. If anyone has done the same thing, I'd be interested to hear what parts you used. (sram, wheeltop, Ltwoo)
Going to use a SRAM Force E1, Garbaruk, Raketa 1x12Mashup:
Force E1 Crank with Raketa 42T Chainring
SRAM 10-52 1295 Cassette
SRAM Rival D1 XPLR Derailleur with Garbaruk Cage & Pulleys
SRAM XX1 Chain.
Except the new Chainring and Crankset I’ve used this combo on another bike and I really liked it.
I pedal at high cadence (100-105) thus the fairly small chainring.
-
Can you measure the real width of those tires on that rim, please? Using a caliper, if possible... Thanks!
The rim is exactly 40 mm wide and the tire is 39 mm wide at 2 bar.
-
The rim is exactly 40 mm wide and the tire is 39 mm wide at 2 bar.
If you don't mind me asking how is the fitment on the storage door? I'm still indecisive if is worth going with the storage or not. Thanks.
-
If you don't mind me asking how is the fitment on the storage door? I'm still indecisive if is worth going with the storage or not. Thanks.
My storage compartment door fits perfectly and I'm really glad I chose this option 👌
-
Quick question for those with a 52 and an in-line seatpost.
Would you mind measuring from the centre of the bb to the top of the seatpost cradle when the post is inserted to its minimum mark.
I need to make sure I can get a 74cm saddle hight without going past the minimum insertion.
Many thanks
It's something around 770 mm from center BB to center sattle rails. A bit hard to measure while I don't removed my 15 mm SB seat post.
Don't get confused, first picture it's just for how I measured it ;)
-
It's something around 770 mm from center BB to center sattle rails. A bit hard to measure while I don't removed my 15 mm SB seat post.
Thank you sir 🙏. That’s a huge help.
-
Here are the first pics from Wendy. My 56er frame is ready for take off to Germany. The colours are not really easy to take good pictures...but it's a first impression.
-
Here are the first pics from Wendy. My 56er frame is ready for take off to Germany. The colours are not really easy to take good pictures...but it's a first impression.
Ive been waiting for your pics as i havent put my order in for the same paint scheme in a 50. It looks better than I expected! I like that its more chrome forward than a regular silver. Congrats on the pick up and am looking forward to your complete build.
-
A lot of words to say you don’t know nothing about T-Type Derailleurs.
I don’t want to be salty but it’s impressive to see some people in this thread with ZERO knowledge trying to explain / solve problems. Please educate yourself before doing it with others. It’s dangerous. (And no, this not only addresses you)
To solve the problem:
- measure the width of the frame and compare it to sram specifications
- check the SRAM T Type Videos. They are very helpful.
- if you got another UDH frame, compare it to the LC.
- did you torque it to specific torque?
- the plastic insert/washer is installed correctly and the silver part of the derailleur is perfectly fine.
- if the frame is not wide enough I would try to install washers. BUT this can cause problems and may result in failures. Personally I’d go with washers on both sides until everything sits flush.
- do you got an original UDH dropout? Try to install that and compare it to the Derailleur.
- UDH is a standard. You either use a UDH Dropout to use a non Direct Mount Derailleur OR a Direct mount derailleur.
- there should not be a crack - T-Types sit flush on frame and washer. No matter if it’s MTB (GX, XX) or XPLR 13spd
My frame should arrive next week. I can check XPLR 13 Speeds, MTB T-Type and various UDH Dropouts. Also I can compare it to different UDH Frames and send these exact measure of dropouts.
Yes, yes you are being salty! Various UDH is a contradiction in terms. Either a dropout is UDH, or it is not.
If you think I'm factually wrong, in any part of what I've said, instead of talking like a walking penis, you educate all of us with better information. So, Salty, yes.
Have you got any good information, or are you just blowing snot?
-
Yes, yes you are being salty! Various UDH is a contradiction in terms. Either a dropout is UDH, or it is not.
Well that’s not exactly true. Factor use UDH but modified the frame to be narrower.
It means a regular mech and hanger are more compact as they would be on a non UDH frame, and you add a spacer for the UDH mech to fit.
So no, UDH is not the standard it was designed to be. Manufacturers are modifying it to suit their specifications.
-
Ive been waiting for your pics as i havent put my order in for the same paint scheme in a 50. It looks better than I expected! I like that its more chrome forward than a regular silver. Congrats on the pick up and am looking forward to your complete build.
I'm glad you like it! Personally, I think the chrome silver combined with glossy black looks even better than the chronos finish on the SEKA Spear. In the photos, some areas, like the fork, probably appear darker than they actually are. I'm really curious to see how it will look in daylight and fully assembled!
-
Waoo this chrome paint looks insane. looking forward to follow the build-up. I wonder how much weight does it add on the frame ( not relevant ) but guess 2-300grams ?
-
I'm glad you like it! Personally, I think the chrome silver combined with glossy black looks even better than the chronos finish on the SEKA Spear. In the photos, some areas, like the fork, probably appear darker than they actually are. I'm really curious to see how it will look in daylight and fully assembled!
Agreed, it looks so good. Especially with the tube shapes the chrome reflections are more pronounced on the LCR018 than on the LCR017. Looking forward to seeing how it looks like in natural light. Can you take a million pics when it arrives and of your build please!!
-
Agreed, it looks so good. Especially with the tube shapes the chrome reflections are more pronounced on the LCR018 than on the LCR017. Looking forward to seeing how it looks like in natural light. Can you take a million pics when it arrives and of your build please!!
Yessss...that's the plan!
-
Waoo this chrome paint looks insane. looking forward to follow the build-up. I wonder how much weight does it add on the frame ( not relevant ) but guess 2-300grams ?
That would be much...I hope a little less.
-
Got my pics from Wendy and tracking number. Hopefully here next week.
Went with the chameleon 08hs with gloss black logos for anyone else wondering.
-
That looks fantastic!!
Can I ask - do they put clear paint coat over the decals? It appears that way.
-
Who is the best person to contact at Light Carbon? Do people just use the info email address or is it preferable to contact a particular person?
-
Who is the best person to contact at Light Carbon? Do people just use the info email address or is it preferable to contact a particular person?
I dealt with chloe@lightcarbon.com and she was 10/10 to deal with.
-
I dealt with chloe@lightcarbon.com and she was 10/10 to deal with.
Same with Wendy...
-
I'm about to order this frame, but still not sure about the design. I like the raw carbon look, but I already had a bike like that. So I would like to have something different.
I would like to see how it looks like if the black on the Eurobike design is changed with the galaxy colour.
Is anyone in here a bit handy with photoshop or something to 'design' this?
I tried with chatgpt, but I'm probably too stupid for this as I get something completely different every time ::)
-
Is anyone in here a bit handy with photoshop or something to 'design' this? I tried with chatgpt, but I'm probably too stupid for this as I get something completely different every time ::)
Try Gemini. It's MUCH better at this task for some reason.
-
Just ordered my frame for my girlfriend, super excited!
-
Just rec'd pics of my frame, should ship anyday.
-
What length expander plug comes with the frame? Probably 30mm? Anyone order a longer one, any recommendations?
-
What length expander plug comes with the frame? Probably 30mm? Anyone order a longer one, any recommendations?
It is a little longer but I did not remember the exact length.
I use this one :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIZUV7i
-
It is a little longer but I did not remember the exact length. I use this one : https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIZUV7i
Why did you opt to get an aftermarket one and not use the one supplied, may I ask?
-
Why did you opt to get an aftermarket one and not use the one supplied, may I ask?
Longer one.
-
Finally, after months of faffing I’ve finally ordered one.
I’ll be on my winter bike until March, so there was no point having it here before Feb.
Looking forward to testing it and seeing how far they’ve come compared to the various other frames I’m used to riding.
-
Finally, after months of faffing I’ve finally ordered one.
I’ll be on my winter bike until March, so there was no point having it here before Feb.
Looking forward to trying it and seeing how far they’ve come compared to the various other frames I’m used to riding.
What color/s do you go for?
-
I'm considering this bike as my next do-it-all on road and gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels.
On the road I like fast group rides and I join the occasional crit race where 45km/h avg speeds are not uncommon. This fall I discovered gravel riding and I love it!
I currently have a 7kg road bike with rim brakes, 45mm carbon hoops and 28mm tires. This bike is getting old and I want to replace it.
I also have a gravel bike with 40mm tires and 46 chainring with 11-42 cassette. This is good enough for where I ride.
I was thinking if I sell both and build up the LCR018-D with two sets of wheels I can perhaps save some space in the garage and build this one up with nice components as a fast racer for both terrains.
I'm gonna slam the stem completely and then still I will be a bit more upright than how I'm currently positioned. A slightly longer stem would help me get in a good position. I really do like the gravel bar on my current bike with 15 degrees of flair. But I don't want that much flair on the road. Something in between could be the sweet spot (an acceptable compromise) for both gravel and road.
What are people's takes on the HBR17 bar? I like how it looks, but I don't like the 8mm lift and the fact that it's missing a bit of flair. Has anyone ordered without that bar? What could be a good alternative?
Edit: Nvm, I just noticed on the lightcarbon website that this bar has 7 degree flair! They should update that spec in their catalogue :)
-
What color/s do you go for?
Gloss clear over carbon.
Over the years I’ve stripped 14 frames down to bare carbon and re clear coated them.
It’s always been my thing, so it was the only choice I was interested in.
Plus it’s lighter and less expensive.
I personally hate logos, or any writing on my frames so it’s as bare as they come.
-
That looks fantastic!!
Can I ask - do they put clear paint coat over the decals? It appears that way.
Yea I think the whole bike including the logos is clear coated
-
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have a BikeGeoCalc for a size 56 available? I need to figure out stem length before my order...
Thanks.
-
If you are willing to use a different tool:
bike-stats.de got all the data for all frame sizes
-
The setup is slowly approaching its finale 😎
Chain and handlebar tape, then we're ready to go 😄
-
Nearly there.
Out of curiosity, did you use a regular or wide crank?
-
Nearly there.
Out of curiosity, did you use a regular or wide crank?
If the question is directed at me, then I can say that I installed the complete SRAM Rival XPLR 2025 groupset, and the crankset is a wide version. I also installed the original SRAM wide bottom bracket, which is mounted with two spacers, and that worked perfectly 👌
-
If the question is directed at me, then I can say that I installed the complete SRAM Rival XPLR 2025 groupset, and the crankset is a wide version. I also installed the original SRAM wide bottom bracket, which is mounted with two spacers, and that worked perfectly 👌
I’ve always been dubious of the claim a 54 chainring will fit.
What size do you have on there?
I was planning on regular Force crank arms with a Garbaruk 48t. They have a few mm less offset than an SRAM chainring, so hopefully that’ll work.
-
I’ve always been dubious of the claim a 54 chainring will fit.
What size do you have on there?
I was planning on regular Force crank arms with a Garbaruk 48t. They have a few mm less offset than an SRAM chainring, so hopefully that’ll work.
I've fitted a 46-tooth chainring and with the wide crank there's still plenty of room 👌
-
I've fitted a 46-tooth chainring and with the wide crank there's still plenty of room 👌
Fantastic, thank you.
Maybe 🤔 a 54t would fit. Not that I’d go any larger than a 50t.
There is plenty of opportunity to tune the chain line to perfection, which is nice to see.
-
The setup is slowly approaching its finale 😎
Chain and handlebar tape, then we're ready to go 😄
Looks nice!! do you think the handlebar has enough flair for gravel ? I'm wondering about that, because I'm going to build a similar set up, only rival x2 front.
great pictures
-
Gloss clear over carbon.
Over the years I’ve stripped 14 frames down to bare carbon and re clear coated them.
It’s always been my thing, so it was the only choice I was interested in.
Plus it’s lighter and less expensive.
I personally hate logos, or any writing on my frames so it’s as bare as they come.
Going a bit off-topic here, but would you mind commenting on the clear-coat process after sanding it down? Do you need a primer? What clear coat did you use (1k,2k) How durable is the clear coat?
-
Going a bit off-topic here, but would you mind commenting on the clear-coat process after sanding it down? Do you need a primer? What clear coat did you use (1k,2k) How durable is the clear coat?
Removing the paint takes a long long time to do it properly, and no primer is needed. Just clean, clean and clean again.
I’ve found spray max 2k clear coat is absolutely the best stuff to use, as it’s a high quality product and allowed for wet sanding after initial application, and polishing when you inevitably get some scratches.
I’ve a few frames that are 7-8 years old and they still look new after a quick machine polish.
Spray max is also UV stable and protects the carbon.
It’s essential to wear a full respirator and not just a mask as 2k contains cyanide and other extremely toxic compounds you don’t want to breath in.
-
Gloss clear over carbon.
Over the years I’ve stripped 14 frames down to bare carbon and re clear coated them.
It’s always been my thing, so it was the only choice I was interested in.
Plus it’s lighter and less expensive.
I personally hate logos, or any writing on my frames so it’s as bare as they come.
What size did you go with? If its 52, then we went for the same finish, gloss raw carbon. Please do post photos as well because I don't think anyone has shared these exact specs yet.
-
What size did you go with? If its 52, then we went for the same finish, gloss raw carbon. Please do post photos as well because I don't think anyone has shared these exact specs yet.
I went with a 52 and 380-110 bars.
It’ll have XPLR Force mech and cassette with force crank and 48t or 50 Garbaruk chainring.
It’ll be build within a day of the frame arriving, but that’s probably 6 weeks from now.
Happy to take pics, weights or whatever when it’s done.
I’ve got some thoughts on modifying the storage door, but I need to see it in person before I know the mods will work.
I want the aero cages to sit flush with the downtube, but I think in standard form there will be a gap which will look weird.
-
Removing the paint takes a long long time to do it properly, and no primer is needed. Just clean, clean and clean again.
I’ve found spray max 2k clear coat is absolutely the best stuff to use, as it’s a high quality product and allowed for wet sanding after initial application, and polishing when you inevitably get some scratches.
I’ve a few frames that are 7-8 years old and they still look new after a quick machine polish.
Spray max is also UV stable and protects the carbon.
It’s essential to wear a full respirator and not just a mask as 2k contains cyanide and other extremely toxic compounds you don’t want to breath in.
Thanks for this great info. Just to add, I have had great results using ProXL 2K clear. It is a little cheaper...
https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/pro-2k-clear-proxl-aerosol-200ml.html
Yes - you have to be careful spraying this stuff as it contains isocyanate. For a pro who sprays this stuff regularly, they will use a air-fed mask, but as a regular DIY guy, I use a Gerson A1 P2 2K face mask, and spray with garage doors wide open. Outside would be even better (but maybe not in December!). I cannot stress enough, that if you use 2K spray, you need a good mask. You will need your lungs in good shape to cycle!
2K paint is much tougher than reqular stuff and the finish is better. I have used ordinary paints on aluminium frames, and its okay, but chips easily.
-
Looks nice!! do you think the handlebar has enough flair for gravel ? I'm wondering about that, because I'm going to build a similar set up, only rival x2 front.
great pictures
I have no idea how much flare it needs to have to be considered a gravel bike 🤷🏻♂️
I don't care about such details because I think it's fine as it is 😉
-
The setup is slowly approaching its finale 😎
Chain and handlebar tape, then we're ready to go 😄
Nice bike!
Still waiting for my frame, also a 52 but gloss over raw carbon...
Can you tell me the saddle height in that picture (bb center to top of the saddle)?
Thanks.
-
Christmas came early, my size 50 frame arrived yesterday. Happy with the quality and looks sharp. Seems to have sustained damage and speaking with Chloe now. I am leaning to shipping damage as the mark is obvious. Hearing LC has good QC, I don't think they would have shipped it, looking like that. No doubt they will help me out, as Chloe already answered my first email sent last night.
-
Christmas came early, my size 50 frame arrived yesterday. Happy with the quality and looks sharp. Seems to have sustained damage and speaking with Chloe now. I am leaning to shipping damage as the mark is obvious. Hearing LC has good QC, I don't think they would have shipped it, looking like that. No doubt they will help me out, as Chloe already answered my first email sent last night.
Jeees looks nice in red! Keep us updated with the after-sales support!
-
Jeees looks nice in red! Keep us updated with the after-sales support!
Thank you, the Ferrari Red looks even better in person! Looks so good.
I will be sure to update. I imagine it will take a few days based on time differences. I hope LC handles this well and expect good service, based on what I have seen/read. I will be sure to update as it goes, as after-sales support is a big concern that can make or break a brand. Based on Chloe already responding to my first email, I don't expect there to be issues.
-
Christmas came early for me as well, my frame size 50 arrived today. Ordered on November 18th, no shipping number or even info that frame was shipped. Just arrived today. What a pleasant surprise. 😊. 710€ in total, shipped to EU. I took the risk and paid via PayPal friends, so the provision was only 4€.
-
Kuhar: Oh man, so jealous :), I ordered my frame in the middle of september, frame is on its way and now it is stuck somewhere in Germany for it seams like forever. I hope it will come soon.
Do you have any idea when your frame was shipped, how long did it take to deliver to europe?
-
Christmas came early for me as well, my frame size 50 arrived today. Ordered on November 18th, no shipping number or even info that frame was shipped. Just arrived today. What a pleasant surprise. 😊. 710€ in total, shipped to EU. I took the risk and paid via PayPal friends, so the provision was only 4€.
Haha, I was in the same boat. I was told it would ship soon and they would update me. Then it arrived yesterday. Pleasant surprise for sure! I almost paid F&F but now seeing the damage on mine, glad I paid the extra fee. Nice to have the peace of mind if needed. Still with the fee, very pleased with the value of everything.
Enjoy your frame!
-
Nice bike!
Still waiting for my frame, also a 52 but gloss over raw carbon...
Can you tell me the saddle height in that picture (bb center to top of the saddle)?
Thanks.
It's a size 50, but my saddle height is 69cm 😉😄
-
What’s the common delivery time to Europe / Germany? Mine was shipped Nov 29., do have a DHL tracking number, but it’s still at “awaiting parcel”! I know this is just the last step when DHL has received it, but there are no further tracking numbers to track the whole transit…
-
Christmas came early, my size 50 frame arrived yesterday. Happy with the quality and looks sharp. Seems to have sustained damage and speaking with Chloe now. I am leaning to shipping damage as the mark is obvious. Hearing LC has good QC, I don't think they would have shipped it, looking like that. No doubt they will help me out, as Chloe already answered my first email sent last night.
Ah shit, that sucks.
Whenever I open a picture it’s MASSIVE, so I can only see bits of it as I scroll around. ( not sure if this is a setting I can change ?)
Is the damage on the headtube or the seat tube ?
Either way, I hope you have a speedy resolution
-
Ah shit, that sucks.
Whenever I open a picture it’s MASSIVE, so I can only see bits of it as I scroll around. ( not sure if this is a setting I can change ?)
Is the damage on the headtube or the seat tube ?
Either way, I hope you have a speedy resolution
Altough its a workaround you can zoom in and out in your browser
(Ctrl + and Ctrl - or Ctrl scrollwheel)
Or
You can rightclick on the image and "open image in new tab" or something similar in your browser
-
What’s the common delivery time to Europe / Germany? Mine was shipped Nov 29., do have a DHL tracking number, but it’s still at “awaiting parcel”! I know this is just the last step when DHL has received it, but there are no further tracking numbers to track the whole transit…
Mine got shipped the 28thNov to Germany and I’ve just received an DHL Mail, that it’s going to be delivered tomorrow. Before that, same status of tracking since 28th
-
Ah shit, that sucks.
Whenever I open a picture it’s MASSIVE, so I can only see bits of it as I scroll around. ( not sure if this is a setting I can change ?)
Is the damage on the headtube or the seat tube ?
Either way, I hope you have a speedy resolution
I click on the file name and open it up separate. Helps prevent that issue.
The damage is on the very front, right at the bearing race/bearing cap would go. I am optimistic LC will handle this properly. We will go from there, although due to time difference I expect a few days to come to a resolution.
-
Altough its a workaround you can zoom in and out in your browser
(Ctrl + and Ctrl - or Ctrl scrollwheel)
Or
You can rightclick on the image and "open image in new tab" or something similar in your browser
iPad user so 🤷🏼♂️ I get whatever I get unfortunately.
-
What’s the common delivery time to Europe / Germany? Mine was shipped Nov 29., do have a DHL tracking number, but it’s still at “awaiting parcel”! I know this is just the last step when DHL has received it, but there are no further tracking numbers to track the whole transit…
Mine was shipped 4-12 via DPD. Also, still the same status since then: Parcel waiting for pick up....
-
Since there plenty of people who consider HBR17 bars, I ask here instead of creating new topic. How are they and how much did you pay for them? Are they stiff enough? Is there any problems with them so far? I've had HBR11 before and they felt like a noodle.
There are not much sub 300$ options which can deliver 130+ stem and have good weight/stiffness.
-
Since there plenty of people who consider HBR17 bars, I ask here instead of creating new topic. How are they and how much did you pay for them? Are they stiff enough? Is there any problems with them so far? I've had HBR11 before and they felt like a noodle.
There are not much sub 300$ options which can deliver 130+ stem and have good weight/stiffness.
I created a post about them a few weeks ago. Take a look at that.
Early indications are good, so hopefully that’s correct as I have three bars on order.
They’re 128 USD per pair, but postage is expensive if you’re only buying a single bar. As I’m also buying an 18-D everything is bundled together.
-
I created a post about them a few weeks ago. Take a look at that.
Early indications are good, so hopefully that’s correct as I have three bars on order.
They’re 128 USD per pair, but postage is expensive if you’re only buying a single bar. As I’m also buying an 18-D everything is bundled together.
Thanks. No feedback on their performance so far...
-
Size 50. Unpainted
-
seems like a complex paint job adds a big delay, i ordered early august and my 54 is finally ready. the last few emails i was told DPD prepaid is unavailable to the UK so is UPS with a declared value of £120 ok, i said ok because it seems like there isnt much choice but maybe i will get hit with fee's i hope its atleast faster like she said
-
seems like a complex paint job adds a big delay, i ordered early august and my 54 is finally ready. the last few emails i was told DPD prepaid is unavailable to the UK so is UPS with a declared value of £120 ok, i said ok because it seems like there isnt much choice but maybe i will get hit with fee's i hope its atleast faster like she said
If it makes you feel better I received my LCR017 in the UK via UPS in July and it came through without any additional payments.
-
seems like a complex paint job adds a big delay, i ordered early august and my 54 is finally ready. the last few emails i was told DPD prepaid is unavailable to the UK so is UPS with a declared value of £120 ok, i said ok because it seems like there isnt much choice but maybe i will get hit with fee's i hope its atleast faster like she said
Shipped to Canada, UPS at $120 USD value. I paid $41 CAD (for tax, duty, brokerage and whatever else UPS threw in there). I hope for your sake, it's not too much.
-
Received my frame today. Box was beaten up but LC did a good job in wrapping it up. OFC did a unboxing video just in case.
Weights of 58 painted:
Fork (uncut): 439g
Frame: 1134g
Axle front: 27g
Axle rear: 37g
Seatpost: 184g
Cockpit (420x110):342g
Expander: 39g
Full Headset & Spacers: 105g
UDH Dropout: 18g
Computer + Lamp Mount: 24g
Made some quick shots at daylight. The color is incredibly hard to capture, but there are tiny little lightpurple sparkles on the offwhite base - looks super good in sunlight. Hopefully I can start building the bike on sunday.
-
Size 50. Unpainted
I was hoping an unpainted size 50 would be lighter.. With or without storage box?
-
Just finished building up my bike.
Size 56 frame with 380x120mm bars. Ultegra 12 speed groupset with 170mm cranks, 11-30 cassette, and 52/36 chainrings. Light Bicycle Turbo 50 wheels with Conti GP5000 S TR, running tubeless with SILCA sealant. Favero Assioma Duo Shi power meter pedals, Selle SMP Nymber saddle, Ahyka aero bottles and Supacaz bar tape.
Total build weight including bottle cages, computer mount and pedals is 8.1kg. Was hoping for a bit less but I'm not a weight weenie so it doesn't bother me too much.
Will hopefully update tomorrow with ride impressions if the Swedish weather allows for it.
-
Mine arrived today!! Parcel was a bit damaged, but the frame is completely okay, no faults at all! But I didn’t get any paper manual or anything like that! I think I have seen something in this thread on how to mount seatpost / bearings and so on or am I wrong?
Paint job looks fantastic…
-
Just finished building up my bike.
Size 56 frame with 380x120mm bars. Ultegra 12 speed groupset with 170mm cranks, 11-30 cassette, and 52/36 chainrings. Light Bicycle Turbo 50 wheels with Conti GP5000 S TR, running tubeless with SILCA sealant. Favero Assioma Duo Shi power meter pedals, Selle SMP Nymber saddle, Ahyka aero bottles and Supacaz bar tape.
Total build weight including bottle cages, computer mount and pedals is 8.1kg. Was hoping for a bit less but I'm not a weight weenie so it doesn't bother me too much.
Will hopefully update tomorrow with ride impressions if the Swedish weather allows for it.
I'm going for almost the same config. (Except for 105 instead of ultegra and Ive got garmin pedals instead of assioma :)
Let us know he it rides :)
I would've hoped it would be sub 8kg, but then again, i'm 85kg myself so a few 100gr heavier is acceptable
-
Here the Torque Sheet…
Who ever came with the idea for the screw placement of the Seatpost…. Worst design ever.
Everything else runs great. The wolftooth t85 dub tool worked very well well on these narrow BB Shells. 50NM without any slip&slide
-
I was hoping an unpainted size 50 would be lighter.. With or without storage box?
No hardware at all. No hanger. No storage bag or cover.
-
After spending a foggy and cold day in the workshop, the bike is ready and I did a short 20k spin to shoot some proper photos.
First Impressions of the Ride
- great position - can imagine going 10+ hours on this
- good and fast acceleration and direct in corners - but not as a full on racer (which is good)
- absolutly silent
Partlist:
Frameset: LCR18-D 58cm
Wheels: LB WR45 with Sapim CX-Ray / CX-Sprint, Son Delux and Carbon Ti X-Hub SL
Groupset:
- Force E1 Brifters with Hope RX4 Calipers
- Force E1 Road Powermeter Crankset with Raketa 42T Chainring
- 1295 10-52 Cassette
- Rival D1 XPLR Derailleur with Garbaruk Cage (to shift the 52 Cog)
- XX Chain
- DUB Road T47 BB (used 1*3mm DUB Spacer on the drive side)
- SRAM CLX-R 160mm Discs
Tires: Michelin Pro5 35mm, Cyclami TPU Tupes
Bartape: Burgh X
Cages: Canyon CF SLX with Titan Screw
Specials: Sinewave Beacon 2, Allygn EdelMÜ
Weight: 8.55KG (without all the Dynamostuff, the bike would end up somewhere at 7.95KG)
The building process was super easy. I´ve build a lot of bikes and I did not had any errors or problems. Of course, the routing of the cables takes a while but is not that bad to be honest.
Some things Lightcarbon should think of changing:
- Adding some sealings to the Headset (Im happy that I changed to Stainless with good seals) Its basically all open.
- changing the position of the Seatpost Locking screw (barely possible to reach it with a torque wrench)
- chaging the mechanism of the Saddleclamp: its pure shit - go for something easy to adjust like thomson or all the others. This design is hard to reach and a pain to change a few degrees. Who ever came along with this design should be punished by mounting saddles with this post until the end of life... :D
Other than that: easy peasy.
Tipps / Recommendations:
- For all the DUB/SRAM users. Get yourself the WolfTooth DUB T47 BB Tool. Great design, very solid.
- Get Stainless Steel Headset bearings, use loads of grease
- Tape down the front hose to the fork steerer
- Apply loads of grease to the whole front steerer (especially whats IN the frame) by that, you prevent damage due to the rear hose rubbing on the steerer in the headtube)
-
Awesome.
This is the closest build to what I’m putting together.
Do you have the spec of the headset bearings? I need to order some for mine before it arrives.
I’m looking forward to the BRR review of the Pirelli TLR RS 35mm. It might outperform the Pro5 in some conditions, or be a summer alternative.
-
Awesome.
This is the closest build to what I’m putting together.
Do you have the spec of the headset bearings? I need to order some for mine before it arrives.
I’m looking forward to the BRR review of the Pirelli TLR RS 35mm. It might outperform the Pro5 in some conditions, or be a summer alternative.
https://www.bike24.de/p1180630.html I installed them
-
The Enduros are right, but I bought some Stainless Steel for nearly half the price. Just check your local/or web shop bearing shop.
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html
-
Thanks both of you.
I always fit stainless in internal routed frames/ bars.
Perfect as I have some 45/45 already, so that’s handy.
-
Just finished building up my bike.
Size 56 frame with 380x120mm bars. Ultegra 12 speed groupset with 170mm cranks, 11-30 cassette, and 52/36 chainrings. Light Bicycle Turbo 50 wheels with Conti GP5000 S TR, running tubeless with SILCA sealant. Favero Assioma Duo Shi power meter pedals, Selle SMP Nymber saddle, Ahyka aero bottles and Supacaz bar tape.
Total build weight including bottle cages, computer mount and pedals is 8.1kg. Was hoping for a bit less but I'm not a weight weenie so it doesn't bother me too much.
Will hopefully update tomorrow with ride impressions if the Swedish weather allows for it.
Got a quick 1h ride in the rain today. No complaints at all. My previous bike was a Merida Scultura Endurance and this frame feels noticably better. I did a couple of 1600W sprints and the responsiveness and stiffness of the BB and handlebars was way greater. The handling was good and when descending at 60kph with crosswinds i had no issues with stability. I have to tweak my position a bit more so I'll refrain on commenting on the comfort until I get it dialled. I'll probably not ride this bike outside again until it's dry outside but the first impressions are very positive.
-
I have to agree that the seatpost clamping mechanism (and overall adjustment) is a terrible design.
An absolute pig to get at the bolts and hard to adjust and keep everything in place before trying to tighten.
I tend to micro adjust my position and have nearly rounded one of my bolts already as I’m having to go in at an angle to tighten - a really, really bad design choice.
I wonder if the seatpost shape is the same as any other brand??
I would love to be able to find a seatpost that has the 2 bolt TCR type adjustment system.
It would take away the only problem I have with the bike overall as everything else has been faultless.
-
Would this be a suitable SS bearing alternative? https://www.kineticbikebearings.com/mh-p16-headset-bearing-stainless-steel.html
-
I have to agree that the seatpost clamping mechanism (and overall adjustment) is a terrible design.
An absolute pig to get at the bolts and hard to adjust and keep everything in place before trying to tighten.
I tend to micro adjust my position and have nearly rounded one of my bolts already as I’m having to go in at an angle to tighten - a really, really bad design choice.
I wonder if the seatpost shape is the same as any other brand??
I would love to be able to find a seatpost that has the 2 bolt TCR type adjustment system.
It would take away the only problem I have with the bike overall as everything else has been faultless.
Agree on the bolts, i ordered TX25 Ti bolts and a 100mm long bit for it. With this i can at least tighten them with the correct torque, even if the bit come in contact with the seat post itself and make same scratches.
-
After spending a foggy and cold day in the workshop, the bike is ready and I did a short 20k spin to shoot some proper photos.
First Impressions of the Ride
- great position - can imagine going 10+ hours on this
- good and fast acceleration and direct in corners - but not as a full on racer (which is good)
- absolutly silent
Partlist:
Frameset: LCR18-D 58cm
Wheels: LB WR45 with Sapim CX-Ray / CX-Sprint, Son Delux and Carbon Ti X-Hub SL
Groupset:
- Force E1 Brifters with Hope RX4 Calipers
- Force E1 Road Powermeter Crankset with Raketa 42T Chainring
- 1295 10-52 Cassette
- Rival D1 XPLR Derailleur with Garbaruk Cage (to shift the 52 Cog)
- XX Chain
- DUB Road T47 BB (used 1*3mm DUB Spacer on the drive side)
- SRAM CLX-R 160mm Discs
Tires: Michelin Pro5 35mm, Cyclami TPU Tupes
Bartape: Burgh X
Cages: Canyon CF SLX with Titan Screw
Specials: Sinewave Beacon 2, Allygn EdelMÜ
Weight: 8.55KG (without all the Dynamostuff, the bike would end up somewhere at 7.95KG)
The building process was super easy. I´ve build a lot of bikes and I did not had any errors or problems. Of course, the routing of the cables takes a while but is not that bad to be honest.
Some things Lightcarbon should think of changing:
- Adding some sealings to the Headset (Im happy that I changed to Stainless with good seals) Its basically all open.
- changing the position of the Seatpost Locking screw (barely possible to reach it with a torque wrench)
- chaging the mechanism of the Saddleclamp: its pure shit - go for something easy to adjust like thomson or all the others. This design is hard to reach and a pain to change a few degrees. Who ever came along with this design should be punished by mounting saddles with this post until the end of life... :D
Other than that: easy peasy.
Tipps / Recommendations:
- For all the DUB/SRAM users. Get yourself the WolfTooth DUB T47 BB Tool. Great design, very solid.
- Get Stainless Steel Headset bearings, use loads of grease
- Tape down the front hose to the fork steerer
- Apply loads of grease to the whole front steerer (especially whats IN the frame) by that, you prevent damage due to the rear hose rubbing on the steerer in the headtube)
How wide are the MICHELIN PRO5 tires on the LB rims? 37?38? If I remember correctly the LB are 25mm internal
-
Samuel BMR: I measured my Michelin PRO 35s on my 28mm internal rim width exactly 36.9mm, so on 25mm rim I would expect 36-36.5mm
-
I measured them on a few different wheels, a few pages back.
25int was 37-38 depending on pressure
-
I cannot figure where is this spacer going. Any clue?
For last two seasons I’m riding Schwalbe Pro One Folding Tire 34-622. For 28€ on bike24 is a steal. Exactly 34mm wide on Elitewheel ENT 2.0. 0 punctures after 12.000km.
-
Samuel BMR: I measured my Michelin PRO 35s on my 28mm internal rim width exactly 36.9mm, so on 25mm rim I would expect 36-36.5mm
About 35.8mm on the LB. I was hoping for more.
-
I also installed a chain catcher, by the way 😄
I did have to make a spacer, but otherwise it fits quite well. https://www.rosebikes.de/wolf-tooth-lonewolf-aero-chainguide-kettenfuehrung-fuer-backroad-ff-2724800
-
I cannot figure where is this spacer going. Any clue?
For last two seasons I’m riding Schwalbe Pro One Folding Tire 34-622. For 28€ on bike24 is a steal. Exactly 34mm wide on Elitewheel ENT 2.0. 0 punctures after 12.000km.
The spacer goes under the cover of the upper steering head bearing if it rubs against the frame. I didn't install the spacer because I have enough clearance.
-
Yes - one for the top, one for the bottom.
Today I´ve recieved the pictures of my frameset. A bit more colorful then all these black beauties :)
Lets see how the decals shine in daylight - they should have the same color as the dropouts but look a bit darker. In the End, if I cant stand it, Ill get matching ones later on...
Its a 58 - should arrive in the next 15 days
I've been sleeping on Chinertown for quite a while. My last two builds are Waltly Ti. I'm here because I saw this fame built up on Reddit this morning. Thanks for sharing that, there.
I think I've found a replacement for my Carbonda 1056. This ticks ALL of my boxes.
- Aero tube shapes
- Endurance geometry
- T47
- UDH
- Internal storage
- 38mm tire clearance
- Custom paint available
Aero/proprietary seatpost could be a dealbreaker...particularly with that seat clamping mechanism. Has anyone found a better post for this frame?
I hope there are no issues building this up without an integrated bar/stem. I prefer routing through FSA SMR.
-
Mine (size 50…) is also painted an on its way to Germany… let’s see when it arrives…
I'd totally steal this paintjob concept! Beutiful.
-
Happy you came back due to my post :)
Regarding the Seatpost. Yes it’s stupid, yes it’s the worst design I’ve ever seen.
Is it a deal breaker? No! In the end, you don’t need the exact torque for tinkering around and this works okayish with a slim Allen key. After finding the correct position, torque it down :)
If someone finds another fitting seatpost, I will change - now it’s fine :)
-
Happy you came back due to my post :)
Regarding the Seatpost. Yes it’s stupid, yes it’s the worst design I’ve ever seen.
Is it a deal breaker? No! In the end, you don’t need the exact torque for tinkering around and this works okayish with a slim Allen key. After finding the correct position, torque it down :)
If someone finds another fitting seatpost, I will change - now it’s fine :)
Maybe Jim Lee will decide the seatpost needs a rethink.
-
TraceVelo had a solution for a slipping seatpost which is to wrap it in that plastic that bedsheets come in. Says it works every time.
-
Is it normal to have wobble on a UDH with the RD prior to installing the chain? when i say wobble, the udh isnt moving, it appears that the ltwoo RD cant go in any further when screwing in.
-
TraceVelo had a solution for a slipping seatpost which is to wrap it in that plastic that bedsheets come in. Says it works every time.
The seatpost isn't slipping - there is a fundamental design problem with how the saddle clamp bolts are accessed.
Its next to impossible to access them without either scraping against the seatpost or having the bit at an angle - neither of which are ideal, and should have been thought about before this design was approved.
Ill say again, that the 2 bolt design that many use, such as the Giant TCR, where one bolt is used for angle and the the other for tightening is by far and away the easiest and most effective clamping design I have ever used and it simply baffles me why it is not more commonplace compared to some of the other terrible clamping systems in use.
What does everyone reckon to the profile of the seatpost - is it a proprietary design, or would there be hope of finding a 3rd party solution that would fit (one of the hylix seatposts perhaps?).
Ive asked Lightcarbon directly for a response to this question, but im not confident of a response!
-
About 35.8mm on the LB. I was hoping for more.
Me too hahaha since the Power Cup are ridiculously big (28c measuring 32,5mm on 25mm internal rims!!)
Was definitely hoping for a 38…
-
Me too hahaha since the Power Cup are ridiculously big (28c measuring 32,5mm on 25mm internal rims!!)
Was definitely hoping for a 38…
On my lightbike WRs hooked, they do measure 38 @ 42 psi.
It took a few Ks of riding but they do grow a bit. Not that a couple of mm make any meaningful difference.
-
The seat post isn't slipping - there is a fundamental design problem with how the saddle clamp bolts are accessed.
Its next to impossible to access them without either scraping against the seat post or having the bit at an angle - neither of which are ideal, and should have been thought about before this design was approved.
For those who are visual like myself. You can see with the allen key, there is just enough space for it to be straight into the bolt. When you try to use a torque wrench, the head of the wrench and base of the socket hits the seat post. Causing the tool to sit slanted in the bolt and cause it to slip/round out the head. Possibly a longer allen socket would work but you would hope it works with what most people would have.
A revised seat post with better access to the bolts would be nice. Not a deal breaker but I can see it being annoying when building the bike.
-
For those who are visual like myself. You can see with the allen key, there is just enough space for it to be straight into the bolt. When you try to use a torque wrench, the head of the wrench and base of the socket hits the seat post. Causing the tool to sit slanted in the bolt and cause it to slip/round out the head. Possibly a longer allen socket would work but you would hope it works with what most people would have.
A revised seat post with better access to the bolts would be nice. Not a deal breaker but I can see it being annoying when building the bike.
A n extended socket is clearly required to get a torque wrench on those bolts. Perhaps this:
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Drive-Length-Metric-Socket/dp/B07TFRZG9V (https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Drive-Length-Metric-Socket/dp/B07TFRZG9V)
-
In my first reply to Chloe I have asked a number of questions. Among them is the pricing for basically every spare and replacement part:
- Seat post clamp
- Rubber seat post clamp cover
- Second fork (painted the same as the first)
- Additional 0mm offset seat post
- Additional 15mm offset seat post
- Headset
- Headset spacers
- Derailleur hanger
- Storage box cover
- Front derailleur mount
- Thru axles
-
Anyone experiencing this "squishiness" on the LCR018-D that Mapdec demonstrates here on the LCR017-D?
https://youtube.com/shorts/JVzdKvSQN5o?si=9bfk2QXtda7Dxj1F
-
Nope - way sturdier than this! Maybe minimal denting but not like the video.
-
For those who are visual like myself. You can see with the allen key, there is just enough space for it to be straight into the bolt. When you try to use a torque wrench, the head of the wrench and base of the socket hits the seat post. Causing the tool to sit slanted in the bolt and cause it to slip/round out the head. Possibly a longer allen socket would work but you would hope it works with what most people would have.
A revised seat post with better access to the bolts would be nice. Not a deal breaker but I can see it being annoying when building the bike.
1 use a ball end bit so it can “go in” at an angle. That’s what they’re designed to do.
2 use a long hex bit like you’d use for the hex on the main shifter fastener.
-
1 use a ball end bit so it can “go in” at an angle. That’s what they’re designed to do.
2 use a long hex bit like you’d use for the hex on the main shifter fastener.
Yes, but they are “make-do” solutions to a problem that should never have gotten past the design stage.
-
Yes, but they are “make-do” solutions to a problem that should never have gotten past the design stage.
I agree, it’s a bit of a strange design, but it is what it is.
I’ll be changing mine to Ti panheads.
-
I agree, it’s a bit of a strange design, but it is what it is.
I’ll be changing mine to Ti panheads.
How will a panhead help?
-
How will a panhead help?
Shorter head, so shallower angle for the hex bit
On the minus side there will be less head engagement.
A big positive is they will look neater and less of an eyesore.
-
Can someone please help me choosing the right BB-tool.
i've bought this senicx BB: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008822446507.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.47.212279d2eA1Lxn&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
And i've bought this BB-tool: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.212279d2eA1Lxn&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
Now the big problem is as you can see in the pictures. It doesn't fit. Just barely. I don't know wich one i should buy now because these sizes should fit togheter.
Thanks.
-
Can someone please help me choosing the right BB-tool.
i've bought this senicx BB: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005008822446507.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.47.212279d2eA1Lxn&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
And i've bought this BB-tool: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.212279d2eA1Lxn&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
Now the big problem is as you can see in the pictures. It doesn't fit. Just barely. I don't know wich one i should buy now because these sizes should fit togheter.
Thanks.
so i just measured the outside diameter of the BB, senicx says it is 49mm but i measure 52mm. So thats why my 50mm tool doesn't fit.
Should i then buy the HEPPE 52mm or the 52,2MM tool just to be sure?
-
biggiebaksteen: My BB is also 52mm and I bought this HEPPE 52mm tool, fits perfect.
-
biggiebaksteen: My BB is also 52mm and I bought this HEPPE 52mm tool, fits perfect.
thankyou! I ordered the 52 and the 52.2 just to be sure, butt i will cancel that one. :)
-
Any feedback from those of you who built up a gravel set up?
I'm looking forward to receive my frame in late January.. I hope this was a good choice.
-
To be honest: I would not use this frame as a gravel bike - 40mm (or less) tire clearance is just not enough. Wider is faster on pretty any surface and there is a lack of modern and fast gravel tires at 36-38mm.
But as I have a 1x Setup and could just change the tires to 38mm Knobbies - the bike will perform as good as it’s performing on road.
-
To be honest: I would not use this frame as a gravel bike - 40mm (or less) tire clearance is just not enough. Wider is faster on pretty any surface and there is a lack of modern and fast gravel tires at 36-38mm.
But as I have a 1x Setup and could just change the tires to 38mm Knobbies - the bike will perform as good as it’s performing on road.
Gravel World championchips has been won on roadbikes a few times. When Van der Poel used a gravel bike, he won on 38mm Terreno Zero. This year Florian Vermeersch won on 40mm Terra Speed.
-
Christmas came early, my size 50 frame arrived yesterday. Happy with the quality and looks sharp. Seems to have sustained damage and speaking with Chloe now. I am leaning to shipping damage as the mark is obvious. Hearing LC has good QC, I don't think they would have shipped it, looking like that. No doubt they will help me out, as Chloe already answered my first email sent last night.
Any news about your damaged frame during transport? Has LightCarbon offered any help?
-
Chloe is working with a local shipping company to arrange getting the frame picked up and shipped back to them. That way it can be repaired and then sent back to me. Waiting on the details of the shipping company but that is where it stands currently.
LC said this is the faster option as they are out of stock on 50s currently. If it is fixed and done properly, I am fine with that. I did send updated pictures to Chloe. After lightly wiping the area with a cloth to get better pictures, the paint came off. To my untrained eye, it looks like it could just be a paint chip. Chloe answered the photos may show the carbon is damaged/protruded. So they still want it back to repair none the less. I appreciate not taking the easy "you are right, it is a paint chip" and sweeping it under the rug. But wanting to get the frame back to confirm it is ok. I told Chloe I won't be riding the frame until March at the earliest, so new frame or repair is fine. I am in no rush.
I am curious to see how they solve the paint in the area once repaired. I will not accept the frame if the paint is clearly a spot repair. With a visible difference in the area the frame was repaired. I am weighing the frame before sending it back also, to make sure they don't just spray over the current paint either. As this is a new frame, I expect it to look new when received and not have unnecessary weight because of the repair.
-
Gravel World championchips has been won on roadbikes a few times. When Van der Poel used a gravel bike, he won on 38mm Terreno Zero. This year Florian Vermeersch won on 40mm Terra Speed.
And no one of them is riding a LC nor is paying for their bikes.
Of course it’s absolutely possible to slam 40mm tires with 2mm clearance to frame and fork into a road endurance frame with a stated 38mm clearance... Does it make sense for most? No, because there are too many disadvantages in my opinion :)
But of course: you do you and if it fits your needs it’s maybe working. For most people this is still a bad idea :)
-
Gravel World championchips has been won on roadbikes a few times. When Van der Poel used a gravel bike, he won on 38mm Terreno Zero. This year Florian Vermeersch won on 40mm Terra Speed.
The thing is, the UCI Gravel World Championships haven't been won on...gravel.
If you're going to actually ride on gravel, and if that gravel isn't going to be bone dry, 38mm tire clearance isn't enough. Would I pop on some 38mm knobbies and go ride crushed limestone on a dry day with this frame? Absolutely. But I wouldn't build this frame up as a gravel bike. No way.
-
Hot tip: Request QC photos prior to shipping. I was notified that my frame was shipped to me and had to ask for QC photos, which were supplied promptly but without any ability to address issues since the frame was already on its way to me. In my case, they didn't match the requested paint job to the specifications we discussed quite thoroughly over email and was on the painting diagram re: angles of paint lines. See below forks.
(https://i.imgur.com/16W5v27.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/l6ykDui.png)
Along with an apology and an offer for $20 USD off a future order, I was told by Wendy that: "Indeed some customers required photos before shipping when place the order, but some didn't. Because you did not make that requirement, so I didn't send."
I had assumed that QC photos would precede shipping, but such is life.
-
Hot tip: Request QC photos prior to shipping. I was notified that my frame was shipped to me and had to ask for QC photos, which were supplied promptly but without any ability to address issues since the frame was already on its way to me. In my case, they didn't match the requested paint job to the specifications we discussed quite thoroughly over email and was on the painting diagram re: angles of paint lines. See below forks.
(https://i.imgur.com/16W5v27.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/l6ykDui.png)
Along with an apology and an offer for $20 USD off a future order, I was told by Wendy that: "Indeed some customers required photos before shipping when place the order, but some didn't. Because you did not make that requirement, so I didn't send."
I had assumed that QC photos would precede shipping, but such is life.
Good feedback. A real shame that they didn't pay attention to the angles. Is this the british racing green color? They're making one for me atm with fade to carbon gloss. Can't wait to see the result (before they're shipping! ::).
-
The thing is, the UCI Gravel World Championships haven't been won on...gravel.
If you're going to actually ride on gravel, and if that gravel isn't going to be bone dry, 38mm tire clearance isn't enough. Would I pop on some 38mm knobbies and go ride crushed limestone on a dry day with this frame? Absolutely. But I wouldn't build this frame up as a gravel bike. No way.
That's nonsense, the frame offers enough clearance for a true 40mm tire, and even with a 40.8mm tire there's still room. The frame is a good 46mm wide at that point 🤷🏻♂️
-
To be honest: I would not use this frame as a gravel bike - 40mm (or less) tire clearance is just not enough. Wider is faster on pretty any surface and there is a lack of modern and fast gravel tires at 36-38mm.
But as I have a 1x Setup and could just change the tires to 38mm Knobbies - the bike will perform as good as it’s performing on road.
It all depends where you ride, what you're used to and what you're aiming to get out of the rides with this bike. I'm currently riding a 40mm gravel bike and it's perfectly fine for where I ride (Netherlands). I think I'm going to sell it though when I have the LC (I'll decide after a few test rides).
I would love a +55mm clearance gravel bike AND a full on aero bike AND a few mountainbikes, AND a bigger house :P but hey, we gotta work with what we have.
-
With regards to the seat post bolt issue. Can someone who has already received their frameset tell me what size hex this is, so that I can buy the suitable allen key in advance.
-
With regards to the seat post bolt issue. Can someone who has already received their frameset tell me what size hex this is, so that I can buy the suitable allen key in advance.
I will confirm 100% later but I am pretty sure 4mm is what I was using when I took the photos yesterday.
Update - Is 4mm
-
Good feedback. A real shame that they didn't pay attention to the angles. Is this the british racing green color? They're making one for me atm with fade to carbon gloss. Can't wait to see the result (before they're shipping! ::).
No chance in getting the fork shipped back to them to be repainted? The paint and concept looks so good but this little oversight would probably drive me insane!
-
LC said this is the faster option as they are out of stock on 50s currently. If it is fixed and done properly
I don't think I would have done the same thing. I'll give you an example of what happened to me with spcycle. I noticed a paint defect on the corner of the seat tube. Spcycle sent me another frame, and the old one is gathering dust; they didn't want it back.
I think a company like LC should at least give you a new frame (whether yours is back or not). You'll end up using a "repaired" bike with zero mileage.
-
With regards to the seat post bolt issue. Can someone who has already received their frameset tell me what size hex this is, so that I can buy the suitable allen key in advance.
It should be Gr.4. But I replaced the screws with titanium ones and I don't know what everyone's complaining about. You can easily access the screws 🤷🏻♂️
-
Good feedback. A real shame that they didn't pay attention to the angles. Is this the british racing green color? They're making one for me atm with fade to carbon gloss. Can't wait to see the result (before they're shipping! ::).
Thanks! Yeah, it's even more frustrating given I spent more than a few email exchanges ensuring clarity on this subject (see below):
(https://i.imgur.com/PmiMaYW.png)
And, this is indeed the British Racing Green YS7935 with accents of YS7933. I'm very happy with the colours themselves.
-
It should be Gr.4. But I replaced the screws with titanium ones and I don't know what everyone's complaining about. You can easily access the screws 🤷🏻♂️
Now please try this with a proper Torque wrench.
Of course both screws of the Seatpost (4 Allen) and Seatpost Collar (5 Allen) are accessible with a Allen key. But it’s a pain with a proper torque wrench.
-
Now please try this with a proper Torque wrench.
Of course both screws of the Seatpost (4 Allen) and Seatpost Collar (5 Allen) are accessible with a Allen key. But it’s a pain with a proper torque wrench.
No, it isn't if you use an extension or a long bit 😉
and thanks for the tip about the torque wrench 🤪
But please remember that you should never use a torque wrench to loosen screws! And for aligning and fixing, a regular ball-end wrench is perfectly suitable.
-
I don't think I would have done the same thing. I'll give you an example of what happened to me with spcycle. I noticed a paint defect on the corner of the seat tube. Spcycle sent me another frame, and the old one is gathering dust; they didn't want it back.
I think a company like LC should at least give you a new frame (whether yours is back or not). You'll end up using a "repaired" bike with zero mileage.
I appreciate you saying that. In the back of my head, I was kinda bummed that I pay for a new bike and would get a new-ly repaired frame. But did not want to be too difficult. However this comment made me realize I was not being difficult (or we are both difficult, haha). So I have sent a message back saying I would prefer a new frame. Especially for me with the damage being near the bearing race, it's not a spot I want to mess with. I think I should have trusted my gut from the start. Will update how they respond to my message back.
-
Oh wow that is quite a bit of clearance. I ended up ordering 35c Gravelking SS+. That said we are on road 99% of the time so should still be sufficient.
-
No, it isn't if you use an extension or a long bit 😉
and thanks for the tip about the torque wrench 🤪
But please remember that you should never use a torque wrench to loosen screws! And for aligning and fixing, a regular ball-end wrench is perfectly suitable.
The fact we are having to mention extensions or long bits means the design is flawed.
I agree there are ways around it, but there shouldn’t have to be….thats the point.
It’s simply a pain in the ass and very frustrating as it could easily have been avoided.
-
Hello everyone, Iam happy to report I finally received my frameset size 58 (130x400mm handlebar setup).
Frame looks pretty good, every critical surface has been touched, unfortunately only rear caliper mounting flats are not flat at all (not complaining, for that price I was kind of expecting it, I have seen plenty of colnagos and pinarellos with a lot worse).
If anyone is interested saddle height setup in photos is 820mm (center of bb-top of saddle) and drop to handlebars is 10.5cm with one 1cm spacer under stem.
There is another 2cm seat post available to minimum insert line, so I guest max saddle height you can get from this frame is 840mm.
With 130mm stem this bike is setup pretty much absolutely identical as my bikefit on my aeroad, so pretty happy with that.
Head tube is exactly same depth as aeroad one and from front lightcarbon does not look much bulkier than aeroad.
So in summary pretty happy so far and everything looks pretty good. LightCarbon setup looks to my eye like much agresive setup compare to aeroad, but that is just illusion with much more sloping top tube, I think it looks pretty amazing and I really like it.
Sorry for bad photos, I will take some better ones after build is complete.
-
Looks good in a big size. Most frames start to look a bit weird as they grow.
-
Ordered today size 50 and 380x110 integrated dropbar
Rider height is 174mm with 77mm inseam
https://ibb.co/99vzwQhQ
-
Hello everyone, Iam happy to report I finally received my frameset size 58 (130x400mm handlebar setup).
what is your height and inseam please? during upcoming days i would to order also size 58 but im struggling with stem length. Thank you
-
I appreciate you saying that. In the back of my head, I was kinda bummed that I pay for a new bike and would get a new-ly repaired frame. But did not want to be too difficult. However this comment made me realize I was not being difficult (or we are both difficult, haha). So I have sent a message back saying I would prefer a new frame. Especially for me with the damage being near the bearing race, it's not a spot I want to mess with. I think I should have trusted my gut from the start. Will update how they respond to my message back.
LC is a company with a reputation to preserve, I hope they accept the offer, it seems like the right thing to do and even more advantageous for them
-
Well, I dont quote myself often. But in this case...
But please remember that you should never use a torque wrench to loosen screws! And for aligning and fixing, a regular ball-end wrench is perfectly suitable.
Is it a deal breaker? No! In the end, you don’t need the exact torque for tinkering around and this works okayish with a slim Allen key. After finding the correct position, torque it down :)
Conclusion:
- its a bad design, one of the worst on the market
- its not a dealbreaker
- there are workarounds (bit extensions, ball-heads, protecting the seatpost) - these don´t make up for a very bad design.
- its not only the seatpost but also the seatpost collar
- not only the screw placement is bad, bad also the design of alignment the angle - especially for inexpierenced users its VERY hard to change the angle of the saddle just a few degress. (compare it to thomson for examble)
-
Hot tip: Request QC photos prior to shipping. I was notified that my frame was shipped to me and had to ask for QC photos, which were supplied promptly but without any ability to address issues since the frame was already on its way to me. In my case, they didn't match the requested paint job to the specifications we discussed quite thoroughly over email and was on the painting diagram re: angles of paint lines. See below forks.
(https://i.imgur.com/16W5v27.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/l6ykDui.png)
Along with an apology and an offer for $20 USD off a future order, I was told by Wendy that: "Indeed some customers required photos before shipping when place the order, but some didn't. Because you did not make that requirement, so I didn't send."
I had assumed that QC photos would precede shipping, but such is life.
I'm a squeaky wheel. I'd be squeaking loudly. It's in LC's interest to always send QC photos prior to shipping, not just for the customer's sake but their own. They should require customer sign-off before shipping. I'd be making a real stink about this.
Since someone from LC follows this conversation, as a potential but uncommitted customer, I'm watching this closely to see of LC steps up and makes this right...or doesn't. It matters to me.
I'm also following what happens with the frame with the damaged headset bearing cup.
-
LC is a company with a reputation to preserve, I hope they accept the offer, it seems like the right thing to do and even more advantageous for them
I would agree. I hope they do the right thing, given the circumstances. I will be sure to update as I go. Especially being somewhat active in the forum here, you don't want a bad experience scaring people off. Kinda like jstrawks mentioned, being a potential customer. I am sure he is not the only. Have good CS will go a long way.
I'm a squeaky wheel. I'd be squeaking loudly. It's in LC's interest to always send QC photos prior to shipping, not just for the customer's sake but their own. They should require customer sign-off before shipping. I'd be making a real stink about this.
Since someone from LC follows this conversation, as a potential but uncommitted customer, I'm watching this closely to see of LC steps up and makes this right...or doesn't. It matters to me.
I'm also following what happens with the frame with the damaged headset bearing cup.
It may depend on the person. Chloe did send pictures to me and wanted me to confirm I saw no issues before they shipped the frame. "Your paint job is done. You can take a look. If there are no issues, we will arrange for shipment as soon as possible" So I was able to see the frame, a single colour so harder to have a mistake, but still a nice touch for CS. Good CS is a big thing. As mentioned, I will be sure to update on my damage issue. I will keep everyone posted!
On a side note, my local hardware store had a 1/4" drive 4mm long ball head hex socket on sale. So I got lucky on that! ;D
-
I'm a squeaky wheel. I'd be squeaking loudly. It's in LC's interest to always send QC photos prior to shipping, not just for the customer's sake but their own. They should require customer sign-off before shipping. I'd be making a real stink about this.
Since someone from LC follows this conversation, as a potential but uncommitted customer, I'm watching this closely to see of LC steps up and makes this right...or doesn't. It matters to me.
I'm also following what happens with the frame with the damaged headset bearing cup.
I feel similarly, but I'm just unsure of what making things right looks like in this circumstance. Thoughts?
-
I feel similarly, but I'm just unsure of what making things right looks like in this circumstance. Thoughts?
In my opinion they should paint another fork for you, ship it at their cost, and let you use and keep the first fork so you don't have to wait to use the frame. If it was me, I'd propose the solution to them and not wait for them to propose one. I believe it's always in my interest to formulate an expectation and communicate it clearly.
-
In my opinion they should paint another fork for you, ship it at their cost, and let you use and keep the first fork so you don't have to wait to use the frame. If it was me, I'd propose the solution to them and not wait for them to propose one. I believe it's always in my interest to formulate an expectation and communicate it clearly.
This is a great idea I hadn't thought of. Thank you for the suggestion.
-
Exciting - just had some QA photos of my size 54 frame, painted in 08HS Chameleon without any logos, should ship (to UK) end of this week. Got a total of 18 photos, couple below. Am pleased they have remembered to add the 2 x extra bottle mount points I requested on top and underside of frame.
-
Thanks! Yeah, it's even more frustrating given I spent more than a few email exchanges ensuring clarity on this subject (see below):
With that email-exchange, there could be no doubt about the angles. Without that followup, I would defend their paint job, because that paint schema is very unclear about angles. The one fork leg straight down actually gives an angle of the color exactly like your frame ended up.
-
I don't think I would have done the same thing. I'll give you an example of what happened to me with spcycle. I noticed a paint defect on the corner of the seat tube. Spcycle sent me another frame, and the old one is gathering dust; they didn't want it back.
I think a company like LC should at least give you a new frame (whether yours is back or not). You'll end up using a "repaired" bike with zero mileage.
just to get another 2 cents in, honestly it's a tiny chip. After a month of using, these will be all over, it's a bike after all. I would have just asked for some money back, slap some nail polish on and call it a day
-
just to get another 2 cents in, honestly it's a tiny chip. After a month of using, these will be all over, it's a bike after all. I would have just asked for some money back, slap some nail polish on and call it a day
I agree.
Those new pictures do look like it’s “just” a paint chip and nothing structural to the bearing seat. ( the paint looks quite thick in that area so it could’ve popped off )
Difficult to be 100% without having the frame in front of me, but that’s how it looks.
If they’re willing to ship a frame twice at their expense, I’d imagine they’d be open to a part refund so everyone can move on.
-
what is your height and inseam please? during upcoming days i would to order also size 58 but im struggling with stem length. Thank you
My height is 196cm, inseam around 94cm (but Iam not 100% sure about inseam).
-
Hi everyone,
I’m currently in the middle of building up my frame from Lichtcarbon, and I’ve run into a bit of a snag with the rear brake.
Everything was going smoothly until I tried to adjust the rear caliper. No matter what I do, I can't get it centered or indexed properly. Upon closer inspection, I noticed there is some noticeable play at the front mounting point, and the mount itself doesn't look perfectly straight.
I have already reached out to Lichtcarbon (Carol) about this, but I wanted to check with the community here as well.
Has anyone else experienced alignment issues with these mounts?
Do you think this is something that can be fixed by "facing" the mounts, or does it sound like a structural/warranty issue?
Any suggestions on how to stabilize that play in the mounting point?
I'd appreciate any insights or advice you might have!
Thanks in advance.
-
I agree.
Those new pictures do look like it’s “just” a paint chip and nothing structural to the bearing seat. ( the paint looks quite thick in that area so it could’ve popped off )
Difficult to be 100% without having the frame in front of me, but that’s how it looks.
If they’re willing to ship a frame twice at their expense, I’d imagine they’d be open to a part refund so everyone can move on.
Yes, if it's a paint chip and not into the carbon, I guess I would explore the option of having them provide me with some touch up paint in the same color. That may not be an option if that's something that can't be legally shipped from China, being a flammable liquid. I have no idea about that.
In fact, if I reach the ordering stage I may ask if this is something I can get for my own frame. With my Carbonda 1056 the paint pen I bought that's ostensibly the same paint code as that of the paint on the frame really doesn't match.
-
Hi everyone,
I’m currently in the middle of building up my frame from Lichtcarbon, and I’ve run into a bit of a snag with the rear brake.
Everything was going smoothly until I tried to adjust the rear caliper. No matter what I do, I can't get it centered or indexed properly. Upon closer inspection, I noticed there is some noticeable play at the front mounting point, and the mount itself doesn't look perfectly straight.
I have already reached out to Lichtcarbon (Carol) about this, but I wanted to check with the community here as well.
Has anyone else experienced alignment issues with these mounts?
Do you think this is something that can be fixed by "facing" the mounts, or does it sound like a structural/warranty issue?
Any suggestions on how to stabilize that play in the mounting point?
I'd appreciate any insights or advice you might have!
Thanks in advance.
Questions:
- Is the caliper is contacting bare carbon with no metal threaded inserts in the chainstay that are flush to the surface?
- Are there metal threaded inserts on the fork?
- At the the right bolt on the caliper, is the caliper resting on paint?
- Was that ragged paint edge at the left bolt like that out of the box?
-
just to get another 2 cents in, honestly it's a tiny chip. After a month of using, these will be all over, it's a bike after all. I would have just asked for some money back, slap some nail polish on and call it a day
I agree.
Those new pictures do look like it’s “just” a paint chip and nothing structural to the bearing seat. ( the paint looks quite thick in that area so it could’ve popped off )
Difficult to be 100% without having the frame in front of me, but that’s how it looks.
If they’re willing to ship a frame twice at their expense, I’d imagine they’d be open to a part refund so everyone can move on.
I don't disagree, I previously mentioned it looked like a paint chip. If LC had confirmed with the updated photos, it was just a paint chip, I was willing to take a partial refund. I can touch up the fork with a little nail polish, that was going to be my plan. However Chloe's response indicated she thought otherwise. As LC are the ones indicating it looks like more than just paint damage but also carbon damage, that is when I push for a new frame. A small spot of paint like that can be touched up. A carbon repair is not a quick fix.
To my untrained eye, it looks like it could just be a paint chip. Chloe answered the photos may show the carbon is damaged/protruded. So they still want it back to repair none the less. I appreciate not taking the easy "you are right, it is a paint chip" and sweeping it under the rug. But wanting to get the frame back to confirm it is ok.
-
I must have skipped over the part you have quoted at the end of your reply. I'll take everything back and agree with your approach
-
Questions:
- Is the caliper is contacting bare carbon with no metal threaded inserts in the chainstay that are flush to the surface?
- Are there metal threaded inserts on the fork?
- At the the right bolt on the caliper, is the caliper resting on paint?
- Was that ragged paint edge at the left bolt like that out of the box?
Thanks for the help. To clarify after taking a closer look (attached another picture from the rear/right bolt):
The play/movement: To be more precise, the metal threaded inserts are solid and fixed—they don't move inside the frame. The 'play' I’m experiencing is actually the caliper tilting because the mounting surface isn't flat.
The right/rear mount: As seen in the photo, the caliper is not resting on paint at the rear mounting point. It seems to be bare material.
The threads: The threads themselves appear to be perfectly straight.
The left/front mount: That ragged paint edge might have been out of the box or caused by the caliper tilting while trying to align it.
-
Thanks for the help. To clarify after taking a closer look (attached another picture from the rear/right bolt):
The play/movement: To be more precise, the metal threaded inserts are solid and fixed—they don't move inside the frame. The 'play' I’m experiencing is actually the caliper tilting because the mounting surface isn't flat.
The right/rear mount: As seen in the photo, the caliper is not resting on paint at the rear mounting point. It seems to be bare material.
The threads: The threads themselves appear to be perfectly straight.
The left/front mount: That ragged paint edge might have been out of the box or caused by the caliper tilting while trying to align it.
In your situation, and having an LBS that I trust completely, I'd take it to them and get their opinion on whether or not facing the mounts will solve the problem, or whether mounts are simply installed incorrectly.
When I buy a frame, I'm prepared to have brake mounting surfaces, headset bearing cups, and bottom bracket shells cleaned up by my LBS. It's nice when I don't have to, but I don't take it for granted that these will be perfect. I'm prepared to pay for that eventuality.
If the mounts aren't installed properly and therefore the calipers can't be installed and centered normally, that's a manufacturing defect and a different story. If that was the case, and a professional mechanic can't sort it, then I'd be asking LC to replace the frame.
-
I must have skipped over the part you have quoted at the end of your reply. I'll take everything back and agree with your approach
Agreed. If LC thinks it's carbon damage, or may be, they need to replace the frame. If they think the shipping company damaged the frame, that's between LC and the shipping company.
-
Hello everyone, Iam happy to report I finally received my frameset size 58 (130x400mm handlebar setup).
...
With 130mm stem this bike is setup pretty much absolutely identical as my bikefit on my aeroad, so pretty happy with that.
Head tube is exactly same depth as aeroad one and from front lightcarbon does not look much bulkier than aeroad.
So in summary pretty happy so far and everything looks pretty good. LightCarbon setup looks to my eye like much agresive setup compare to aeroad, but that is just illusion with much more sloping top tube, I think it looks pretty amazing and I really like it.
Sorry for bad photos, I will take some better ones after build is complete.
Please, when you finish your build tell us how the LCR018-D frame compares with the aeroad.
-
In my opinion they should paint another fork for you, ship it at their cost, and let you use and keep the first fork so you don't have to wait to use the frame. If it was me, I'd propose the solution to them and not wait for them to propose one. I believe it's always in my interest to formulate an expectation and communicate it clearly.
I sent Wendy an email this morning outlining things and proposing this solution. Will update on outcome.
-
I'm playing around with paint. The black would be raw carbon with clear lacquer. Logos would have to be under the clear lacquer or no logos.
-
Finally an update, painting is finished and ready for shipment.
I had to change from the 400/100mm handlebar to 380/90mm, due to the ordered one is out of stock and would take another 2 weeks to make.
Also added the 15mm SB seat post for 50USD to my order, just to be a bit more flexible with the position and adjustment.
Here some screenshots from a video which Wendy send me.
Does the blue paint run down the back of the seat tube and between the chainstays behind the bottom bracket?
-
I'm playing around with paint. The black would be raw carbon with clear lacquer. Logos would have to be under the clear lacquer or no logos.
I like the idea, although considered the opposite. I had considered getting the Ferrari red on the outside and carbon on the inner parts less seen for weight.
-
My 58 size bike is assembled. I was worried that maybe frame will be small. I am 192cm tall and my inseam is 90cm. Seat post is not even half way up so this size should also fit taller riders than me.
Can’t wait for a nice dry day to test it out.
-
Does the blue paint run down the back of the seat tube and between the chainstays behind the bottom bracket?
It's only in between the rear triangle were the wheel sits, you can see some pictures here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
-
I'm playing around with paint. The black would be raw carbon with clear lacquer. Logos would have to be under the clear lacquer or no logos.
I like the look, except the red decals, maybe. It's something about red letters on black frames that looks messy, some how. Maybe black letters in the red part on the top tube?
BenR, just shout out if you would like me to stop using your picture as an example..
-
I started building my build for real, everything looks good and goes pretty smoothly. Only thing that I really don't like is the serrated spacer for saddle clamp bolt, I thing everything serrated against carbon is not good idea, maybe for the fist time your torque that bolt it is holding good but everything your need adjust saddle angle I think it would be pain.
As I have access to CNC machine I went and made my own smooth spacers and I think it works much better, with serrated once when I tighten them to just snug 3nm I was still able to move saddle with my hand, with those smooth one when I tighten them to 3nm saddle is rock solid.
Did you guys who is using bike have any problem with saddle angle slipping and did you use carbon paste between carbon and aluminium surfaces of seatpost?
I sent this to LightCarbon as my suggestion to improvement so maybe they will alter their design.
Otherwise so far bike looks pretty awesome.
-
I started building my build for real, everything looks good and goes pretty smoothly. Only thing that I really don't like is the serrated spacer for saddle clamp bolt, I thing everything serrated against carbon is not good idea, maybe for the fist time your torque that bolt it is holding good but everything your need adjust saddle angle I think it would be pain.
As I have access to CNC machine I went and made my own smooth spacers and I think it works much better, with serrated once when I tighten them to just snug 3nm I was still able to move saddle with my hand, with those smooth one when I tighten them to 3nm saddle is rock solid.
Did you guys who is using bike have any problem with saddle angle slipping and did you use carbon paste between carbon and aluminium surfaces of seatpost?
I sent this to LightCarbon as my suggestion to improvement so maybe they will alter their design.
Otherwise so far bike looks pretty awesome.
Could you share that design?
I might just have that made by JLCPCB or another chinese manufacturer.
Should get my frame today :)
-
I like the look, accept the red decals, maybe. It's something about red letters on black frames that looks messy, some how. Maybe black letters in the red part on the top tube?
BenR, just shout out if you would like me to stop using your picture as an example..
Ahah don't worry 😁.
Unfortunately, I have to sell my bike (sales & classified topic) because of wrong size
-
My 58 size bike is assembled. I was worried that maybe frame will be small. I am 192cm tall and my inseam is 90cm. Seat post is not even half way up so this size should also fit taller riders than me.
Can’t wait for a nice dry day to test it out.
What's the color scheme? It looks beautiful
-
I started building my build for real, everything looks good and goes pretty smoothly. Only thing that I really don't like is the serrated spacer for saddle clamp bolt, I thing everything serrated against carbon is not good idea, maybe for the fist time your torque that bolt it is holding good but everything your need adjust saddle angle I think it would be pain.
As I have access to CNC machine I went and made my own smooth spacers and I think it works much better, with serrated once when I tighten them to just snug 3nm I was still able to move saddle with my hand, with those smooth one when I tighten them to 3nm saddle is rock solid.
Did you guys who is using bike have any problem with saddle angle slipping and did you use carbon paste between carbon and aluminium surfaces of seatpost?
I sent this to LightCarbon as my suggestion to improvement so maybe they will alter their design.
Otherwise so far bike looks pretty awesome.
Nice work .
You could also use a Shimano cleat washer.
-
Hoogie: Yeah, no problem. It is pretty simple part and maybe it is even non issue for most I just personally dont like anything serrated against carbon :).
-
Hoogie: Yeah, no problem. It is pretty simple part and maybe it is even non issue for most I just personally dont like anything serrated against carbon :).
Thank you for this KRoser.
If anyone is UK based and wants to club together to get one of these made I'd be up for that - not sure the best place to get them made so suggestions welcome.
-
Also if anyone is interested and have access to 3dprinter, here is my design for Garmin Varia rigid holder specific to LCR018-D seatpost profile.
Big thanks to Jim from LightCarbon, he was able to sent me seatpost profile drawing in high res and thanks to that he saved me a lot of time in CAD and measuring. I think that was pretty awesome from LightCarbon.
Only thing you will need is M3 hexagon nut (there is a little cut out in holder where do you slot or push in m3 nut) and M3x20mm bolt, puck and puck bolts you can use the ones from original Varia mount.
I also recommend to use at least 3 wall loop and 25% infill (just to be sure just print it with 100% infill, it increases weight for just 2g :) ) in slicer, and PETG material for increased temperature and UV resistance.
-
Also if anyone is interested and have access to 3dprinter, here is my design for Garmin Varia rigid holder specific to LCR018-D seatpost profile.
Big thanks to Jim from LightCarbon, he was able to sent me seatpost profile drawing in high res and thanks to that he saved me a lot of time in CAD and measuring. I think that was pretty awesome from LightCarbon.
Only thing you will need is M3 washer and M3x20mm bolt, puck and puck bolts you can use the ones from original Varia mount.
I also recommend to use at least 3 wall loop and 25% infill (just to be sure just print it with 100% infill, it increases weight for just 2g :) ) in slicer, and PETG material for increased temperature and UV resistance.
Really appreciate you making that file for free! I don't have a printer but a local company will change $5-10 to print it (depending on material choice).
-
It's only in between the rear triangle were the wheel sits, you can see some pictures here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nT3KeXnNwRXrJr938
Your frame turned out beautifully. Here's the photo that answers my question:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO9O6MDcJZSfu7FnefAkI1tYNAQP5ect9GftDtxdOrvRZwVPAVX9Tk2-VH0pjin5_dsMoEFSAV8_qDwZy7u06KothGmn07zHk3Y5VoHSs_4-cJ_2INxWMyLtEY5NLnJplSWZ3X2HT_J1tlrQofF3WGj1Q=w438-h779-s-no?authuser=0 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO9O6MDcJZSfu7FnefAkI1tYNAQP5ect9GftDtxdOrvRZwVPAVX9Tk2-VH0pjin5_dsMoEFSAV8_qDwZy7u06KothGmn07zHk3Y5VoHSs_4-cJ_2INxWMyLtEY5NLnJplSWZ3X2HT_J1tlrQofF3WGj1Q=w438-h779-s-no?authuser=0)
I hesitate to tell you that there are really nice brake rotors with blue anodized centers, from Hope, for example.
-
Also if anyone is interested and have access to 3dprinter, here is my design for Garmin Varia rigid holder specific to LCR018-D seatpost profile.
Big thanks to Jim from LightCarbon, he was able to sent me seatpost profile drawing in high res and thanks to that he saved me a lot of time in CAD and measuring. I think that was pretty awesome from LightCarbon.
Only thing you will need is M3 washer and M3x20mm bolt, puck and puck bolts you can use the ones from original Varia mount.
I also recommend to use at least 3 wall loop and 25% infill (just to be sure just print it with 100% infill, it increases weight for just 2g :) ) in slicer, and PETG material for increased temperature and UV resistance.
Oh, that's good! Thanks for sharing it.
-
Also if anyone is interested and have access to 3dprinter, here is my design for Garmin Varia rigid holder specific to LCR018-D seatpost profile.
Big thanks to Jim from LightCarbon, he was able to sent me seatpost profile drawing in high res and thanks to that he saved me a lot of time in CAD and measuring. I think that was pretty awesome from LightCarbon.
Only thing you will need is M3 washer and M3x20mm bolt, puck and puck bolts you can use the ones from original Varia mount.
I also recommend to use at least 3 wall loop and 25% infill (just to be sure just print it with 100% infill, it increases weight for just 2g :) ) in slicer, and PETG material for increased temperature and UV resistance.
Great, couldn't you make a nicer computer mount that's 1.5-2cm shorter and not so spoon-shaped 😄
-
Bike.Man: Well, that is why I shared STEP file witch is pretty easy to modify compare to STL. You can copy that setpost profile from my file and design holder as whatever you want :).
-
Bike.Man: Well, that is why I shared STEP file witch is pretty easy to modify compare to STL. You can copy that setpost profile from my file and design holder as whatever you want :).
I think he's asking if you can be persuaded to next apply your talents to designing a better outfront mount for the handlebars than the one LC provides.
-
Also if anyone is interested and have access to 3dprinter, here is my design for Garmin Varia rigid holder specific to LCR018-D seatpost profile.
Big thanks to Jim from LightCarbon, he was able to sent me seatpost profile drawing in high res and thanks to that he saved me a lot of time in CAD and measuring. I think that was pretty awesome from LightCarbon.
Only thing you will need is M3 washer and M3x20mm bolt, puck and puck bolts you can use the ones from original Varia mount.
I also recommend to use at least 3 wall loop and 25% infill (just to be sure just print it with 100% infill, it increases weight for just 2g :) ) in slicer, and PETG material for increased temperature and UV resistance.
It looks like I could get one of these printed per those specs for about $24 USD. I'd go for it. I could get polished titanium for $131. 😉
-
jstrawks: I think you are right, sorry Bike.Man, my bad I get it now. Iam a bit slow with my english :)
Yeah, computer mount is next :), this is just test first version designed perfectly around my elemnt bolt 3. So far it looks like it fits pretty good and feels pretty sturdy, but I have no idea if it is going to last and not snap. My own printed Garmin Varia mount I have been using those for years with no problem, but computer mount I have no idea.
If final version will be good to go, I will definitely share it here :).
jstrawks: Just expect maybe to have it print twice with some dimension tweaks to fit it perfectly, that 3d model is designed to dimensions whats come from my printer, maybe some other 3d printer will print slightly differently and there is specific material shrink variable. I did not test it on other printers.
-
jstrawks: I think you are right, sorry Bike.Man, my bad I get it now. Iam a bit slow with my english :)
Yeah, computer mount is next :), this is just test first version designed perfectly around my elemnt bolt 3. So far it looks like it fits pretty good and feels pretty sturdy, but I have no idea if it is going to last and not snap. My own printed Garmin Varia mount I have been using those for years with no problem, but computer mount I have no idea.
If final version will be good to go, I will definitely share it here :).
jstrawks: Just expect maybe to have it print twice with some dimension tweaks to fit it perfectly, that 3d model is designed to dimensions whats come from my printer, maybe some other 3d printer will print slightly differently and there is specific material shrink variable. I did not test it on other printers.
If I buy the frame and need the mount, I'd risk it. If the mount is loose, I'll wrap the post with some electrical tape. If it's tight, I'll sand off some of the inner material.
-
Updated paint concept (very like the Carbonda CFR-1056 this would be replacing, though that one is not crystal effect):
-
Had the local company make it for me. I don't know much about 3D printing but very happy with result. I'll need to sand the mount a bit but no complaints from me. Printed in ASA, wall loop 10, 100% infill and they charged me $7.50. Once mounted to the post properly, it'll be less bulky than my other mount and half the weight.
-
I got some photos of my frame size 56 from Chloe before shipping, I think it looks great...
-
JensenMacD: That was fast :), looks good. I think that will clamp up nicely around seatpost, even thou that m3 bolt needs to be tighten very lightly just finger tight maybe like 1Nm.
PS: just a little tip, that slot in mount is designed to have a little gap in it, to ensure good clamping pressure around seatpost, so you dont need to clamp it down fully.
-
I got some photos of my frame size 56 from Chloe before shipping, I think it looks great...
You can't fool me with that Seka Spear!
Beautiful!
-
I keep seeing different "LightCarbon" graphics and logos. Has LC provided a menu of options they have to you folks to choose from?
I can't make any sense out of their most common headtube logo, though it sort of says "LC" if you turn it upside down.
-
Yes - one for the top, one for the bottom.
Today I´ve recieved the pictures of my frameset. A bit more colorful then all these black beauties :)
Lets see how the decals shine in daylight - they should have the same color as the dropouts but look a bit darker. In the End, if I cant stand it, Ill get matching ones later on...
Its a 58 - should arrive in the next 15 days
What was the process for them doing your custom graphics? Did you provide vector art?
-
I keep seeing different "LightCarbon" graphics and logos. Has LC provided a menu of options they have to you folks to choose from?
I can't make any sense out of their most common headtube logo, though it sort of says "LC" if you turn it upside down.
For the downtube logo there's a new design which is now default, but you can still ask for the old one which is more clean in my opinion.
-
I received my frame yesterday and started building. Loving it so far, although it's my very first build.
Luckily have a friend to help me out.
Size 56, painted frame out of the box was 1168 grams.
Fork was 469 grams
Seatpost 188 grams
Sneak peak of my frame color included.
-
Thanks to my dad who has an inspection camera, I took a few photos of inside the frame for people to see. First photo is seatpost, rest are inside the frame. Everything I saw looks really good and clean.
-
I'm thinking about some very minimal branding, just this, on both sides:
-
Could someone print something like the original 3D Titanium Computer Mount from LightCarbon in black? 😄
-
Has anyone by any chance replaced their axles with titanium ones and has a link? I can't seem to find the right thing online 😬
-
Still waiting on my Carboncranks… rolling chassis so far… 6,5kg at size 50…
-
Still waiting on my Carboncranks… rolling chassis so far… 6,5kg at size 50…
Did you run over a full shifter cable from the sti to the rear derailleur when going mech? Does fittings include a stopper in the rear derailleur to minimize usage of shifter outer cable? Thanks btw
-
I’m running a standard Shimano Optislick outer housing all the way from the shifter to the derailleur! There is no inner stopper or fitting to just run the inner liner on some tubes inside the frame!
-
Still waiting on my Carboncranks… rolling chassis so far… 6,5kg at size 50…
That red paint is looking great out in the wild! Is that UK somewhere?
-
No, I’m from Germany!
-
Your frame turned out beautifully. Here's the photo that answers my question:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO9O6MDcJZSfu7FnefAkI1tYNAQP5ect9GftDtxdOrvRZwVPAVX9Tk2-VH0pjin5_dsMoEFSAV8_qDwZy7u06KothGmn07zHk3Y5VoHSs_4-cJ_2INxWMyLtEY5NLnJplSWZ3X2HT_J1tlrQofF3WGj1Q=w438-h779-s-no?authuser=0 (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczO9O6MDcJZSfu7FnefAkI1tYNAQP5ect9GftDtxdOrvRZwVPAVX9Tk2-VH0pjin5_dsMoEFSAV8_qDwZy7u06KothGmn07zHk3Y5VoHSs_4-cJ_2INxWMyLtEY5NLnJplSWZ3X2HT_J1tlrQofF3WGj1Q=w438-h779-s-no?authuser=0)
I hesitate to tell you that there are really nice brake rotors with blue anodized centers, from Hope, for example.
Yep, i saw them, but they are twice the price as the shimano one, not worth it for me to pay 70-80€ for a blue disc rotor. :-\
-
When I first joined this conversation I said that this frame ticked all my boxes. That's not exactly true. My perfect frame would use a 27.2mm round seatpost. I get that no manufacturer is going to spec that as part of a design with a brief to be marketed as "aero". Still, if this frame had a non-proprietary post, it would be an easy swap.
There's been a fair amount of chat about the seat clamp design. I thought the design looked familiar, then I place it. It's Parlee's design.
https://www.parleecycles.com/products/parlee-seat-post (https://www.parleecycles.com/products/parlee-seat-post)
LightCarbon uses the same design both round and aero posts. I wonder how Parlee customers feel about the design.
-
When I first joined this conversation I said that this frame ticked all my boxes. That's not exactly true. My perfect frame would use a 27.2mm round seatpost. I get that no manufacturer is going to spec that as part of a design with a brief to be marketed as "aero". Still, if this frame had a non-proprietary post, it would be an easy swap.
There's been a fair amount of chat about the seat clamp design. I thought the design looked familiar, then I place it. It's Parlee's design.
https://www.parleecycles.com/products/parlee-seat-post (https://www.parleecycles.com/products/parlee-seat-post)
LightCarbon uses the same design both round and aero posts. I wonder how Parlee customers feel about the design.
Something must be wrong with my browser.. The Parlee prices are 10 times what they should be. Rubles?
-
My 58 size bike is assembled. I was worried that maybe frame will be small. I am 192cm tall and my inseam is 90cm. Seat post is not even half way up so this size should also fit taller riders than me.
Can’t wait for a nice dry day to test it out.
Would you mind sharing your saddle height (centre of BB to top of saddle)?
Cheers
-
Something must be wrong with my browser.. The Parlee prices are 10 times what they should be. Rubles?
A $350 seatpost is impervious to disappointment due to the baked in confirmation bias. It's a feature, not a bug.
-
I know this topic has already been discussed, but I can’t find it again here in the forum. Is it normal to have this gap between the headset and the spacers? I still have to cut the steerer tube, but it seems very large to me. I haven’t even installed the spacer of 0,7 shown in the picture, because I’ve already read that it can also be left out
-
I know this topic has already been discussed, but I can’t find it again here in the forum. Is it normal to have this gap between the headset and the spacers? I still have to cut the steerer tube, but it seems very large to me. I haven’t even installed the spacer of 0,7 shown in the picture, because I’ve already read that it can also be left out
Not normal. You have to fit the compression ring into the bearing.
-
Francy68: Yeah that is not normal, you must have put in something upsidedown or something.
-
No, the gap shouldn't be that big! You need to check the installation!
I ended up having to install the 0.7mm spacer after all because at 6 Nm it was too tight against the top tube 😬
-
So if anyone want to try a bit shorter computer mount for HBR17 handlebars, there you go :).
I would recommend to print it with a bit finer layer height (0.15mm, 0.16mm) and 100% infill with supports for countersunk holes.
Also disclaimer, use it at your own risk, I dont take responsibility for any harmed or lost computers :), this is untested part.
Iam running similar 3dprinted mount on my aeroad with no problem, but canyon has different mount style so this one is unknown.
It seams pretty sturdy so I dont think it is going to snap right away and theoretically should be fine, but you never know.
Also I dont know if it is going to fit garmin 5xx computer, I do not have one to test it.
You can use screws and mount pucks from original lightcarbon mount.
-
So if anyone want to try a bit shorter computer mount for HBR17 handlebars, there you go :).
I would recommend to print it with a bit finer layer height (0.15mm, 0.16mm) and 100% infill with supports for countersunk holes.
Also disclaimer, use it at your own risk, I dont take responsibility for any harmed or lost computers :), this is untested part.
Iam running similar 3dprinted mount on my aeroad with no problem, but canyon has different mount style so this one is unknown.
It seams pretty sturdy so I dont think it is going to snap right away and theoretically should be fine, but you never know.
Also I dont know if it is going to fit garmin 5xx computer, I do not have one to test it.
You can use screws and mount pucks from original lightcarbon mount.
Fantastic, and now again in that design please 😄
-
My frame was delivered today. I'll order the remaining parts for my bike somewhere in the coming weeks. It's too cold to build up my frame in the shed anyway.
-
Bike.Man: I like that design to, but I dont think it is suitable for 3d print. For 3d titanium maybe, but definitely not for plastic one, that would snap pretty easily.
-
Fantastic, and now again in that design please 😄
Why not get the titanium one LC offers? Sure it's a little spoon like with no computer. Once you put a computer on, it looks fine. Note, I am just holding it up to the bars, nothing is mounted.
-
So if anyone want to try a bit shorter computer mount for HBR17 handlebars, there you go :).
I would recommend to print it with a bit finer layer height (0.15mm, 0.16mm) and 100% infill with supports for countersunk holes.
Also disclaimer, use it at your own risk, I dont take responsibility for any harmed or lost computers :), this is untested part.
Iam running similar 3dprinted mount on my aeroad with no problem, but canyon has different mount style so this one is unknown.
It seams pretty sturdy so I dont think it is going to snap right away and theoretically should be fine, but you never know.
Also I dont know if it is going to fit garmin 5xx computer, I do not have one to test it.
You can use screws and mount pucks from original lightcarbon mount.
Fantastic work, thank you for sharing it with us! I love the spirit in the forum.
Do you think the design could be modified so that the bell from “Close the Gap” could be included? That would be awesome! I use these bells on all my bikes and find them to be one of the most useful gadgets on a bike—the bells can simply be clipped onto the mount.
https://www.closethegap.cc/de/products/raceday4-evo-bell-right-handed?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=1e15c8aef&pr_rec_pid=10229606187347&pr_ref_pid=10229601206611&pr_seq=uniform (https://www.closethegap.cc/de/products/raceday4-evo-bell-right-handed?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=1e15c8aef&pr_rec_pid=10229606187347&pr_ref_pid=10229601206611&pr_seq=uniform)
-
My frame was delivered today. I'll order the remaining parts for my bike somewhere in the coming weeks. It's too cold to build up my frame in the shed anyway.
It looks great Can you describe the process for getting custom graphics from LC?
-
Why not get the titanium one LC offers? Sure it's a little spoon like with no computer. Once you put a computer on, it looks fine. Note, I am just holding it up to the bars, nothing is mounted.
Because I'd like them in black 😬 Also, if someone could sandblast and anodize them, I'd prefer the original LightCarbon 😄
-
radrick_91: that bell looks good, it does not look like super complicated system, but unfortunately I can´t help you with that. I would have to have one bell in my hands to measure it, there are no dimensions or diagrams publicly available as far as I can see.
-
It looks great Can you describe the process for getting custom graphics from LC?
Thanks, of course I can. Pretty simple: use a vecor based program like Adobe or use opensource like Inkscape. Ask for the paint design file
Design your logo's, Scale them to the size tyou want by placing them on the shope of the frame which is used to design the paint scheme. Change the complete design into paths and export as PDF and send to LC.
They'll do the rest.
-
Thanks, of course I can. Pretty simple: use a vecor based program like Adobe or use opensource like Inkscape. Ask for the paint design file
Design your logo's, Scale them to the size tyou want by placing them on the shope of the frame which is used to design the paint scheme. Change the complete design into paths and export as PDF and send to LC.
They'll do the rest.
Thanks. So LC doesn't want vector files as .AI or .EPS?
-
Received my frameset pics today from Jim! Size 54, ordered mid October.
-
Received my frameset pics today from Jim! Size 54, ordered mid October.
That design in the red is really nice! Great design
-
Hot tip: Request QC photos prior to shipping. I was notified that my frame was shipped to me and had to ask for QC photos, which were supplied promptly but without any ability to address issues since the frame was already on its way to me. In my case, they didn't match the requested paint job to the specifications we discussed quite thoroughly over email and was on the painting diagram re: angles of paint lines. See below forks.
Along with an apology and an offer for $20 USD off a future order, I was told by Wendy that: "Indeed some customers required photos before shipping when place the order, but some didn't. Because you did not make that requirement, so I didn't send."
I had assumed that QC photos would precede shipping, but such is life.
Following up on this, LightCarbon is refusing to take responsibility saying I needed to request QC photos prior to shipment. I would like to take a poll for those who have had their frames shipped to understand if this was truly my mistake or Wendy's.
If your frame has been shipped, could you take a moment to fill out this quick survey? https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8 (https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8)
Thank you! :)
-
Following up on this, LightCarbon is refusing to take responsibility saying I needed to request QC photos prior to shipment. I would like to take a poll for those who have had their frames shipped to understand if this was truly my mistake or Wendy's.
If your frame has been shipped, could you take a moment to fill out this quick survey? https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8 (https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8)
Thank you! :)
Watching closely, Jim Lee. Is LC's reputation worth less than the cost of a fork?
-
Following up on this, LightCarbon is refusing to take responsibility saying I needed to request QC photos prior to shipment. I would like to take a poll for those who have had their frames shipped to understand if this was truly my mistake or Wendy's.
If your frame has been shipped, could you take a moment to fill out this quick survey? https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8 (https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8)
Thank you! :)
You couldn't have stressed the importance of getting the angles of the stripes right any more. Especially because it a custom paint job and not one of their existing templates, it should be an internal requirement to send QC photos. Disappointing to see if this doesn't get resolved.
-
What strikes me as particularly odd is that the only additional cost to LC if they replace the fork, is the shipping cost for the fork. If they'd sent QC photos and the customer flagged the problem after it was painted, they were going to have to eat the cost of the fork and paint another one, anyway. This refusal is the refusal to pay shipping on one small box. It makes no sense.
-
Received my frameset pics today from Jim! Size 54, ordered mid October.
How much was that paint job if you don’t mind? It is killer for sure.
-
How much was that paint job if you don’t mind? It is killer for sure.
Thank you! It was 200$ for the 2 color paintjob - a custom variation of TY-018 Marble Red along with Gloss Black, and 35$ for the custom decals.
-
Thanks. So LC doesn't want vector files as .AI or .EPS?
Ypu can sent those but a PDF will do. Color matching is not necessary is also done by LC. Pretty straightforward.
-
Ypu can sent those but a PDF will do. Color matching is not necessary is also done by LC. Pretty straightforward.
Thanks. I'd probably send a .pdf showing scale and placement, and then vector graphics for the actual files. I'd also provide specific colors and dimensions for the logos.
-
That should work out fine. You'll receive a PDF with your design for approval before they start. And when they sent you photos afterwards, and something is done differently, just let them know. They forgot one decal on my front fork, and there was an area painted in another way. They repainted/ solved that.
-
A Question: I just put the parts together as a dry fit and tightened the seat post just so that it doesn't slide down. there is play between the frame and post, front to back and side to side. It is very noticeable. Has anyone else experienced this, and will it disappear when the seatpost bolt is tightened to specification? Of course, after adding some carbon paste between post and frame
-
A Question: I just put the parts together as a dry fit and tightened the seat post just so that it doesn't slide down. there is play between the frame and post, front to back and side to side. It is very noticeable. Has anyone else experienced this, and will it disappear when the seatpost bolt is tightened to specification? Of course, after adding some carbon paste between post and frame
Is there any reason you can’t torque to spec and see for yourself?
-
Following up on this, LightCarbon is refusing to take responsibility saying I needed to request QC photos prior to shipment. I would like to take a poll for those who have had their frames shipped to understand if this was truly my mistake or Wendy's.
If your frame has been shipped, could you take a moment to fill out this quick survey? https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8 (https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8)
Thank you! :)
Please let us know the results, once you get enough responses. I am curious.
-
Is there any reason you can’t torque to spec and see for yourself?
No there is not. I could do that, but I'm still waiting for the rest of my parts and just want to torque the seat post to my position once I have finished my build and am ready to test it. I don't want to torque it now, loosen it later, and torque it again to spec. Since this is my first bike with a D shape post, I thought I would just ask. A round post has no or almost no play.
-
No there is not. I could do that, but I'm still waiting for the rest of my parts and just want to torque the seat post to my position once I have finished my build and am ready to test it. I don't want to torque it now, loosen it later, and torque it again to spec. Since this is my first bike with a D shape post, I thought I would just ask. A round post has no or almost no play.
Why are you reluctant to torque it to spec now? There's no reason not to. I'd apply carbon assembly past and torque if I had this concern. There's no harm to torquing it unlimited times.
-
I know, I was just wondering if anyone else experienced the same thing. But apparently, asking it is not appreciated. I'm not asking for someone to torque it to spec it and find out at this very moment... just a general question. well forget about it.
-
I know, I was just wondering if anyone else experienced the same thing. But apparently, asking it is not appreciated. I'm not asking for someone to torque it to spec it and find out at this very moment... just a general question. well forget about it.
It’s not that it isn’t appreciated, but this is now it sounds.
I got some new running shoes today. I put my foot in one, but it was loose.
I didn’t tie the laces, so does anyone know if they’re the right size for me?
Torque it and if it moves there is a problem. If it doesn’t, there isn’t.
-
I just noticed a flaw in my frame while trying to replace the hanger LC provided with a direct mount hanger. When torqued down I could still easily move it as the "sleeve" was sticking out a little bit from the frame dropout. I checked the dropout thickness and it was 12.0mm while the UDH spec says 12.5mm + or - 0.2mm. I didn't have a problem with the Light Carbon hanger as the part that goes in the frame is 0.3mm shorter than on the new one. I contacted LC and ordered a 20x28x0.5mm washer. Has anyone else had a problem with this? I will get back to you once I receive a response and sort this out.
-
As mentioned, I will be sure to update on my damage issue. I will keep everyone posted!
Current update as I still work with Chloe. There may have been some misunderstanding. I still have the frame and it has not been sent back yet. I will attribute some of the misunderstanding to language differences. I received emails stating the following.
- It looks as if the carbon fibers have been damaged and protruded.
- Everything else seems fine—it’s mainly this spot [the chip] that’s problematic, as it appears to have been bumped or knocked.
Carbon fiber repair technology is quite sophisticated, and it may not be fixable locally." - The issue this time is only paint damage and exposed carbon fiber surface caused by impacts during transportation, not structural damage.
The reason we didn’t recommend having it repaired locally is that carbon fiber repair processes have strict requirements for technology and materials, and ordinary repair shops can hardly meet the standard workmanship.
Reading this, to me it sounded like the frame had paint and carbon damage. Talking about carbon damage and complicated carbon repair. Chloe clarified after.
- The issue with your frame is only paint damage that has caused the carbon fiber to be exposed—the structural integrity and quality of the frame itself remain completely unaffected.
The reason we recommend sending the frame back for repairs is that the painting process for carbon fiber frames has strict technical requirements. Without professional operation by experienced technicians, the frame’s structural strength could easily be compromised during the paint sanding process. Color mismatches may also occur with touch-ups.
To me, it sounds like they are going to sand the frame down and repaint. Requiring professional services to carefully sand down, not damage the carbon and repaint. LC (or the shipping company) paying for shipping back to them and then back to me once repaired. No out-of-pocket expense for me. I have proposed partial refund and touching up the paint myself (with no affect to my warranty) or sending it back for LC to repair, I am letting LC decide.
The process has been a little slow, partly to the time zone difference, but Chloe has remained in communication the whole time. With it being winter, I am in no rush. I would likely be more upset had the weather been nice and I could be riding the frame. I will update once a final resolution is confirmed. As my situation is a little different from the fork but very interesting to see the difference in how it is being handled. As of now, I still have no issues recommending or suggesting LC. They have maintained in communication and working towards a solution.
Update - LC has decided to have me ship the frame back. I will be packing it up and sending it to them.
-
If you don’t need the frame built for a few months, it’s sounds like the best option to be 100% sure.
It looks like a paint chip, but if it’s being posted at their expense ( both ways ) I don’t think that can be faulted.
As a suggestion. If you need any additional parts, you can now buy those and have them shipped for free 😀
-
Update - LC has decided to have me ship the frame back. I will be packing it up and sending it to them.
Are they covering the cost of your return shipping?
-
Are they covering the cost of your return shipping?
In the email Chloe states, Could you please help us pack the bike frame securely and send it back to us? Please make sure to use EMS as the shipping carrier. We’ll cover all the shipping fees and taxes. So I would take that as they are covering the cost both ways. I have sent a follow up confirming how that will work. I assume I pay the shipping and they will then send me money to cover the cost.
-
Do have a problem fitting my Shimano GRX 812 Derailleur to the UDH hanger… it obviously doesn’t fit… can somebody shed some light which hanger would fit to get it working?
-
Do have a problem fitting my Shimano GRX 812 Derailleur to the UDH hanger… it obviously doesn’t fit… can somebody shed some light which hanger would fit to get it working?
Check if you respect this.
-
Thanks… that was exactly what was wrong! Switched the position and now I can go up all gears!
-
Following up on this, LightCarbon is refusing to take responsibility saying I needed to request QC photos prior to shipment. I would like to take a poll for those who have had their frames shipped to understand if this was truly my mistake or Wendy's.
If your frame has been shipped, could you take a moment to fill out this quick survey? https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8 (https://forms.gle/Ks7sdXNwURkiijsT8)
Thank you! :)
Here are the results of my unscientific poll.
(https://i.imgur.com/IIJAk0o.png)
Jim from LightCarbon, I implore you to get involved here if you can. I will be messaging Wendy with this information in the coming days.
-
I`ve stripped my old Crankbrothers Double Shot Pedals and powdercoated them in a matching color to the frame... And also the Scews of the front derailleur. 3D Printed a small plate which covers both holes of the Front Derailleur because I`m using a 1x11 GRX! Fits the original screws... Maybe someone else wants to use it...
-
is this what udh should look like when installed correctly?
-
Out of curiosity, anyone who bought an extra storage bag. Have you tried to see if you can fit both in the frame? Push one down towards the BB and one up? I know frame size would affect this. It would be cool to know if I could squeeze a second bag in the frame and get all my tools in there between the two.
-
Here are the results of my unscientific poll.
(https://i.imgur.com/IIJAk0o.png)
Jim from LightCarbon, I implore you to get involved here if you can. I will be messaging Wendy with this information in the coming days.
I wonder if it depends on who your sales rep is. Is Chloe providing QC photos, but Wendy, not?
-
got to this point, i ordered headset bearings last night so will have to wait to finish the bars. getting the rd power cable through fucking sucked but some garden wire helped
-
Sorry, I did not answer your poll!
So here we go: Wendy sent me photos without me asking for them. I told her that the colors are a bit off - she never answered to that and the frame was already posted.
-
hello, what brake rotors and what size are you using on lcr18. thinking about 180mm front and 160mm rear but I cant find what is the max rotor size. If someone is using 140mm is it enough for allround please?
-
Finished… 8)
Size 50 - in total 7,7kg!
Elite 40mm Edge Carbonwheels
Conti Terraspeed 40mm tires
GRX 800 1x12
Garbaruk rear cage and 11-46 Cassette
Lightcarbon Saddle
Zrace Unchained Carbon Crankset 40T
Kaktus Ceramic BB
Crankbrothers Double Shot 2 Pedals - matching powder coat
Mana Carbon Bottlecage
Reacts super fast on low speeds, but I wasn’t able to do more than 1km because of the weather… will do in den next days!
-
I wonder if it depends on who your sales rep is. Is Chloe providing QC photos, but Wendy, not?
Wendy sent me several photos for quality control. My interactions with Wendy have been very professional so far.
-
The lesson in this, for me, is to explicitly ask for QC photos and stipulate that they're not to ship the frame until I've approved them...and to receive verbal acknowledgement of that stipulation.
-
Sorry, I did not answer your poll!
So here we go: Wendy sent me photos without me asking for them. I told her that the colors are a bit off - she never answered to that and the frame was already posted.
Paul
As long as they used the color you requested it will probably be okay. I ordered from XMCS and I was concerned about the colors in the pics but when I received it was exactly as I had requested and better than expected. Lighting in these colors can cause pic colors to be misleading. Hope it works out for you.
-
So guys... had a blast yesterday because I had a full day of factory tour through LC's halls, including 45min interview with Gavin, seeing QC and ISO-tests. I also met all the names we all recognize from our correspondence, such as Wendy, Carol, Jim, as well as the founder Johnny.
Also saw some of Your framesets in final QC with colorings (Who ordered "Cryogeneix"?) as well as a teaser for 2026... ;) -> Every frame that goes out has the same QC process.
They also told me that all sizes should be in production now. It just takes some time, because the demand for the new models is rather big, and it's still a relatively small shop - intentionally so, to keep the quality high, defects and risk low. Also each frame has like 2h of human labor involved + 2 times baking in the autoclave.
The ISO tests were done in the same room as a Well Known Bike World Tour brand's latest models, (which ofc I am not able to share..) and are assembled in the same building...
Currently sifting through 150gb of footage, so stay tuned, hope i will finish the video soon on my channel - Full English this time!
Also, there will be another factory visit in the next weeks here in China ...;)
-
So guys... had a blast yesterday because I had a full day of factory tour through LC's halls, including 45min interview with Gavin, seeing QC and ISO-tests. I also met all the names we all recognize from our correspondence, such as Wendy, Carol, Jim, as well as the founder Johnny.
Also saw some of Your framesets in final QC with colorings (Who ordered "Cryogeneix"?) as well as a teaser for 2026... ;) -> Every frame that goes out has the same QC process.
They also told me that all sizes should be in production now. It just takes some time, because the demand for the new models is rather big, and it's still a relatively small shop - intentionally so, to keep the quality high, defects and risk low. Also each frame has like 2h of human labor involved + 2 times baking in the autoclave.
The ISO tests were done in the same room as a Well Known Bike World Tour brand's latest models, (which ofc I am not able to share..) and are assembled in the same building...
Currently sifting through 150gb of footage, so stay tuned, hope i will finish the video soon on my channel - Full English this time!
Also, there will be another factory visit in the next weeks here in China ...;)
I appreciate the effort you're putting in and I've seen your videos, but I'm still shocked by your limited technical knowledge and remain convinced that you've chosen the wrong size frame 🙄
Therefore, I unfortunately expect little that is truly interesting or informative from the video, and rather a lot of trivial and irrelevant content 😬
But that's just my personal feeling 🤷🏻♂️
-
So guys... had a blast yesterday because I had a full day of factory tour through LC's halls, including 45min interview with Gavin, seeing QC and ISO-tests. I also met all the names we all recognize from our correspondence, such as Wendy, Carol, Jim, as well as the founder Johnny.
Also saw some of Your framesets in final QC with colorings (Who ordered "Cryogeneix"?) as well as a teaser for 2026... ;) -> Every frame that goes out has the same QC process.
They also told me that all sizes should be in production now. It just takes some time, because the demand for the new models is rather big, and it's still a relatively small shop - intentionally so, to keep the quality high, defects and risk low. Also each frame has like 2h of human labor involved + 2 times baking in the autoclave.
The ISO tests were done in the same room as a Well Known Bike World Tour brand's latest models, (which ofc I am not able to share..) and are assembled in the same building...
Currently sifting through 150gb of footage, so stay tuned, hope i will finish the video soon on my channel - Full English this time!
Also, there will be another factory visit in the next weeks here in China ...;)
Thanks for the information. Well done. I'm very much looking forward to the video. Please let us all know when it is released.
-
I appreciate the effort you're putting in and I've seen your videos, but I'm still shocked by your limited technical knowledge and remain convinced that you've chosen the wrong size frame 🙄
Therefore, I unfortunately expect little that is truly interesting or informative from the video, and rather a lot of trivial and irrelevant content 😬
But that's just my personal feeling 🤷🏻♂️
I am happy for any constructive feedback, also learning a lot from (other's) feedback. But on the other hand I also received dozens of positive comments, or via private dms etc. and even LC told me, that they received an uptick in orders after my videos. So even if this video is not for you, who, on the internet could be anyone, a mechanical engineer, technician, bike mechanic or just a regular dude, idk. I am just a latter, which I always mention in my videos. If that video is a waste of your time, than please please don't watch it - Better yet! Travel here, make better videos, be my guest, but until then, please don't gatekeep others.
-
So guys... had a blast yesterday because I had a full day of factory tour through LC's halls, including 45min interview with Gavin, seeing QC and ISO-tests. I also met all the names we all recognize from our correspondence, such as Wendy, Carol, Jim, as well as the founder Johnny.
Also saw some of Your framesets in final QC with colorings (Who ordered "Cryogeneix"?) as well as a teaser for 2026... ;) -> Every frame that goes out has the same QC process.
They also told me that all sizes should be in production now. It just takes some time, because the demand for the new models is rather big, and it's still a relatively small shop - intentionally so, to keep the quality high, defects and risk low. Also each frame has like 2h of human labor involved + 2 times baking in the autoclave.
The ISO tests were done in the same room as a Well Known Bike World Tour brand's latest models, (which ofc I am not able to share..) and are assembled in the same building...
Currently sifting through 150gb of footage, so stay tuned, hope i will finish the video soon on my channel - Full English this time!
Also, there will be another factory visit in the next weeks here in China ...;)
CryogenieX mentioned !! 🥳 Really looking forward to your video! 😁
-
So guys... had a blast yesterday because I had a full day of factory tour through LC's halls, including 45min interview with Gavin, seeing QC and ISO-tests. I also met all the names we all recognize from our correspondence, such as Wendy, Carol, Jim, as well as the founder Johnny.
Also saw some of Your framesets in final QC with colorings (Who ordered "Cryogeneix"?) as well as a teaser for 2026... ;) -> Every frame that goes out has the same QC process.
They also told me that all sizes should be in production now. It just takes some time, because the demand for the new models is rather big, and it's still a relatively small shop - intentionally so, to keep the quality high, defects and risk low. Also each frame has like 2h of human labor involved + 2 times baking in the autoclave.
The ISO tests were done in the same room as a Well Known Bike World Tour brand's latest models, (which ofc I am not able to share..) and are assembled in the same building...
Currently sifting through 150gb of footage, so stay tuned, hope i will finish the video soon on my channel - Full English this time!
Also, there will be another factory visit in the next weeks here in China ...;)
Fantastic! Can't wait for the video.
Don't violate an NDA or anything, but would there be any reason for someone looking at this frame to wait for the 2026 surprise?
-
I appreciate the effort you're putting in and I've seen your videos, but I'm still shocked by your limited technical knowledge and remain convinced that you've chosen the wrong size frame 🙄
Therefore, I unfortunately expect little that is truly interesting or informative from the video, and rather a lot of trivial and irrelevant content 😬
But that's just my personal feeling 🤷🏻♂️
Sometimes sharing one's honest opinion doesn't actually add to the conversation in a constructive way. What is the point of insults?
-
Super cool, looking forward to the video!
-
Hello everybody!
I'm about to pull the trigger on this LCR018 frame but I have questions before doing it as I'm not sure about which size I should take.
I'm 178cm tall and my inseam is 86cm. I'm hesitating between size 52 and 54. I need the top of my saddle to be at 76cm Frome the BB and I'm not sure if the size 52 frame can get the saddle top tube to about 73/74 high?
Can someone help me with these questions?
Thanks a lot and have a good day !
-
Hello everybody!
I'm about to pull the trigger on this LCR018 frame but I have questions before doing it as I'm not sure about which size I should take.
I'm 178cm tall and my inseam is 86cm. I'm hesitating between size 52 and 54. I need the top of my saddle to be at 76cm Frome the BB and I'm not sure if the size 52 frame can get the saddle top tube to about 73/74 high?
Can someone help me with these questions?
Thanks a lot and have a good day !
I'm 174cm and the 52 would be too small for me. I can match the fit of my Carbonda CFR-1056 Medium with the LC frame in a 54.
-
I just noticed a flaw in my frame while trying to replace the hanger LC provided with a direct mount hanger. When torqued down I could still easily move it as the "sleeve" was sticking out a little bit from the frame dropout. I checked the dropout thickness and it was 12.0mm while the UDH spec says 12.5mm + or - 0.2mm. I didn't have a problem with the Light Carbon hanger as the part that goes in the frame is 0.3mm shorter than on the new one. I contacted LC and ordered a 20x28x0.5mm washer. Has anyone else had a problem with this? I will get back to you once I receive a response and sort this out.
I received an update from Carol: "For the thickness of the dropout was 12.0mm for the earlier batch frames and currently we have been updated to 12.5mm. There is no quality problem for both of version frames. Please be assured.
I checked with our engineers and it's OK to add washers for direct mount UDH hanger."
I will proceed with the 20x28x0.5 washer once I receive it and it should theoretically fix this.
-
as well as a teaser for 2026... ;)
what info can you share? ;D
-
Fantastic! Can't wait for the video.
Don't violate an NDA or anything, but would there be any reason for someone looking at this frame to wait for the 2026 surprise?
what info can you share? ;D
The LCR18 is an endurance road (all-road) bike, and the New Bike for 2026 is a different kind of drop-bar bike. So if you are looking in this category (road/endurance) specifically, then waiting for ordering will do you no good ;).
On the other hand, Gavin mentioned it is still early prototype (3d printed, no molds yet), so things can also change still. I guess, we will see the final model at Eurobike, starting production like LCR18 to the end of the year.
You will see the prototype in the video ;D 8)
-
Finally my build is complete.
Pretty happy with results, I think it looks pretty sweet. I hope I get it fully try out on the road tomorrow. I hope that it rides as good as it looks :).
Size 58, 400x130mm handlebars specs, without internal storage version
Saddle height on photos (bb-top of saddle) 820mm (another 2cm available to min insertion line), drop between saddle and top of handlebars is 10.5cm with 15mm of spacers.
Weight is 8.5kg with pedals, varia radar and elemnt bolt (like it is on photos) witch is something like 300g lighter than my Aeroad with same config, I doubt I will be able to feel that, but that was pleasant surprise
Those logos on rims and frame are made out of reflective material so it has nice "glowing" effect out on sun.
-
Nice looking build. How are those riser bars feeling? Can u comfortably gold aero position on them?
-
kubackje: So far I really like them, position is pretty much identical to my Canyon, so I would imagine no problem holding aero position.
I just have a few more spacers on Canyon compare to LightCarbon and drop is identical to hoods.
-
kubackje: So far I really like them, position is pretty much identical to my Canyon, so I would imagine no problem holding aero position.
I just have a few more spacers on Canyon compare to LightCarbon and drop is identical to hoods.
Are the bars from Lightcarbon or another brand? I like them.
-
Finally my build is complete.
Pretty happy with results, I think it looks pretty sweet. I hope I get it fully try out on the road tomorrow. I hope that it rides as good as it looks :).
Size 58, 400x130mm handlebars specs.
Saddle height on photos (bb-top of saddle) 820mm (another 2cm available to min insertion line), drop between saddle and top of handlebars is 10.5cm with 15mm of spacers.
Weight is 8.5kg with pedals, varia radar and elemnt bolt (like it is on photos) witch is something like 300g lighter than my Aeroad with same config, I doubt I will be able to feel that, but that was pleasant surprise
Those logos on rims and frame are made out of reflective material so it has nice "glowing" effect out on sun.
Love the build, love the weight
(Looking at a black 58+105 Di2 myself)
I dug a little deeper in your build but found one concerning specification:
The tyre width on your rims:
Your run Michelin Pro 5 F32mm/R35mm on 28mm internal right?
Michelin states a range of internal rim witdh of 16-25 for the PRO5 32mm tyres
and a range of internal rim witdh of 17-27 for the PRO5 35mm tyres
These recommendations are based on ETRTO
Source:https://dgaddcosprod.blob.core.windows.net/b2c-experience-production/attachments/cm9qnyggr0be401ocfimmhwg6-2024-12-bicycle-michelin-2025-dealer-book-brochure-digital-pages-a4-master-196-201.pdf (https://dgaddcosprod.blob.core.windows.net/b2c-experience-production/attachments/cm9qnyggr0be401ocfimmhwg6-2024-12-bicycle-michelin-2025-dealer-book-brochure-digital-pages-a4-master-196-201.pdf)
Altough these tyres seat fine in the driveway, i personally wouldnt trust these in high speed decents.
-
Rebel_Yell: Yes, those are LightCarbon HBR17 handlebars
casper.f: Yes, you are right with my setup and I know it is not exactly per recommendations, but since those rims have normal hooks and Iam running latex tubes Iam not worried at all about safety. I was running GP5000 30mm with latex tubes on 28mm internal rim width for whole season with no problems.
I think i would not risk it with tubeless thou.
-
I’ve over 3000k on a 35mm pro5 on a 32mm internal.
Apparently I’m not dead, and they’re a struggle to dismount from a hooked rim.
Frankly ETRTO is mostly aimed at beginners using hookless.
-
Glad neither of you has had issues so far, but dismissing ETRTO as a guide for beginners overlooks its role as the independent, well-funded body that sets global engineering standards for bicycle safety. Their regulations stem from rigorous industrial testing and massive R&D budgets rather than anecdotal success.
Two positive stories do not override technical regulations. It follows the same logic as a lifelong smoker arguing that cigarettes are harmless simply because they are still breathing.
I am not looking to convince either of you to change your tires, as that is not my goal. However, my concern is that rookies might read these posts and think that ignoring safety standards is the norm. Experience doesn't alter the physics of high-speed impacts or the mechanical limits of the materials you are riding.
The 50-gram penalty and slight increase in frontal area is a trade I would take every day if it means complying with ETRTO standards.
-
I put over 3 decades of ridding experience and my own protocols above an extremely flawed “standard”.
ETRTO is for those who lack common sense and ignore pressure rather than width. Specifically with hookless, but hooked got lumped in there too.
I’m sure as you’re such an expert on the matter, you’ll be aware of Josh Poertner , his position within the ETRTO and what he chooses to run himself.
It’s important to remember they are flawed guidelines, and not rules. Choose to follow them or not, I really don’t care, but flagging them as “concerning” 😀 that’s just dramatic.
My comments are aimed squarely at hooked rims and not hookless. Hookless has always been a stupid system and will hopefully die away and be quickly forgotten.
-
I put over 3 decades of ridding experience and my own protocols above an extremely flawed “standard”.
You still sound like a lifelong smoker, arguing cigarettes are arent harmfull.
I’m sure as you’re such an expert on the matter, you’ll be aware of Josh Poertner , his position within the ETRTO and what he chooses to run himself.
I am not an expert, the people at ETRTO are.
I am aware of Josh Poertner. But citing an expert to dismiss safety standards is like saying, "my doctor smokes, so it must be fine." Even experts take calculated risks they wouldn't recommend as a universal baseline for the general public.
Choose to follow them or not, I really don’t care, but flagging them as “concerning” 😀 that’s just dramatic.
"Concerning" is actually a very conservative word choice. I’m not saying it's lethal: I’m pointing out a mechanical mismatch.
It’s important to remember they are flawed guidelines, and not rules
Yes these are guidelines with high probability of some safety margin baked in. If you have any better safety standards that aren't just bro science, please let me know. Until there is a proven alternative, I will keep advocating for ETRTO, especially in a forum where there also are newcomers who might not realize they are trading structural integrity for a few marginal aero gains.
I'm sorry if I overuse the smoking analogy, but it's the most accurate way I can think of to describe why "it hasn't failed me yet" isn't the same thing as a system being technically safe.
-
You still sound like a lifelong smoker, arguing cigarettes are arent harmfull.
I am not an expert, the people at ETRTO are.
I am aware of Josh Poertner. But citing an expert to dismiss safety standards is like saying, "my doctor smokes, so it must be fine." Even experts take calculated risks they wouldn't recommend as a universal baseline for the general public.
"Concerning" is actually a very conservative word choice. I’m not saying it's lethal: I’m pointing out a mechanical mismatch.
Yes these are guidelines with high probability of some safety margin baked in. If you have any better safety standards that aren't just bro science, please let me know. Until there is a proven alternative, I will keep advocating for ETRTO, especially in a forum where there also are newcomers who might not realize they are trading structural integrity for a few marginal aero gains.
I'm sorry if I overuse the smoking analogy, but it's the most accurate way I can think of to describe why "it hasn't failed me yet" isn't the same thing as a system being technically safe.
We’re adults. We can do whatever you like.
I’ll continue to enjoy riding the 11 bikes I currently own which all adhere to my own strict safety standards.
Please review ETRTO as an organisation in full, and their lack of clout in the industry. There is still a massive variation in 700c tyres and rims as they’ve achieved very little in unifying the industry which is why we still have super tight, and very loose tyres.
It’s far more important for an individual to test their own tyre and rim combinations for themselves, rather than rely solely upon a fake standard.
Technically a Panaracer tyre can be ETRTO width compliant, but I would never use one because they’re baggy on the majority of rims, and don’t remain seated when deflated.
In your world that’s a safe combination because ETRTO said so. In reality, it’s absolutely not safe.
You do as you wish.
-
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b2/Survivorship-bias.svg/2560px-Survivorship-bias.svg.png)
-
Has anyone here requested and received logos under clear lacquer?
-
Has anyone here requested and received logos under clear lacquer?
I thought that was standard practice, as I had specifically asked about it, and Jim told me, ‘The logo is located beneath the surface paint, so replacing it requires grinding off the paint.’
-
I appreciate the effort you're putting in and I've seen your videos, but I'm still shocked by your limited technical knowledge and remain convinced that you've chosen the wrong size frame 🙄
Therefore, I unfortunately expect little that is truly interesting or informative from the video, and rather a lot of trivial and irrelevant content 😬
But that's just my personal feeling 🤷🏻♂️
First of all, thank you @zealot128 for the effort you put into your videos and for sharing these insights - most of us genuinely appreciate the work behind them (as I do) :D
That said, criticism should be specific, respectful, and fact-based. Framing a dismissive or disparaging remark as a “personal feeling” does not make it constructive, nor does it excuse its tone. Questioning someone’s competence or dismissing their work in advance, without engaging with the actual content, adds little to a meaningful discussion.
I am particularly surprised that such a comment comes from a very active member of this thread, and that it remains online even in its revised form.
-
Here are the results of my unscientific poll.
(https://i.imgur.com/IIJAk0o.png)
Jim from LightCarbon, I implore you to get involved here if you can. I will be messaging Wendy with this information in the coming days.
Here is the latest exchange with Wendy and my reply after I collected some poll responses
(https://i.imgur.com/kmLECuK.png)
-
Well done.
-
I thought that was standard practice, as I had specifically asked about it, and Jim told me, ‘The logo is located beneath the surface paint, so replacing it requires grinding off the paint.’
It would take some digging through this thread but I seem to recall someone observing that their logos were on top of the clear lacquer. I'd be pleased to be mistaken about this.
-
Couldn't resist ripping it all open to get a quick look - the raw carbon finish has exceeded my expectations, its beautiful!
Hard to photograph the effect, but took a few snaps to try and show it off.
The frame looks to be finished to a very high standard - and I love the little storage door!
One tiny point is the decals are on top of the lacquer, I would have preferred beneath for a lovely smooth finish and no chance of getting them damaged, but its only a small point.
Overall im delifghted and can't wait to get it built up.
(https://i.ibb.co/gbJD18Yt/IMG-1063-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vRjN1jW/IMG-1061-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ycsbr2mf/IMG-1065-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wZ4JSNSY/IMG-1060-Large.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/m5LND9GD/IMG-1067-Large.jpg)
This is the post that mentions decals on top of the lacquer.
-
I am hoping to design my own decals. So that I can get this done in advance of my frame arriving, please could someone let me know the height of the lettering that LC use for their decals?
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhVD4P0p/bike.jpg)
-
cycloholic: I had logos on my frame custom made my "LightCarbon" logo is 46x365mm on a page 77 you can see how they fits on frame. It looks like to me like logos directly from lightcarbon are bit smaller then mine thou.
-
Hello,
All custom logos (2 Down Tube, 1 Head badge, 1 top Tube 1 on each fork leg) are all below the clear coat. Basically you can’t „feel“ them. Looking very good.
-
To my knowledge, with glossy decals on matte frames, the stickers are on top of the paint.
For those who opted for glossy paint, the stickers are underneath the paint.
-
Makes absolute sense!
-
Hello all !
I have a question about the number of bottle holders that are possible to mount on this frame ? 1 or 2 ? Thanks !
-
Those are my photos of the naked carbon frame with the gloss finish - the decals are on top of the lacquer.
-
I’ve over 3000k on a 35mm pro5 on a 32mm internal.
Apparently I’m not dead, and they’re a struggle to dismount from a hooked rim.
Frankly ETRTO is mostly aimed at beginners using hookless.
I'm running 32mm GP5K S TR tires on a set of 29mm internal wheels. It's amazing. But apparently I'm dead already according to ERTO. They inflate to just over 35mm.
-
I'm running 32mm GP5K S TR tires on a set of 29mm internal wheels. It's amazing. But apparently I'm dead already according to ERTO. They inflate to just over 35mm.
Be careful admitting that online. The ETRTO forum police will get all pissy and mark it as “concerning” 😂
-
Hello all !
I have a question about the number of bottle holders that are possible to mount on this frame ? 1 or 2 ? Thanks !
it comes with mounts for two but i think someone mentioned asking them to add more
-
it comes with mounts for two but i think someone mentioned asking them to add more
Yes that's why I was asking about 2, I didn't understand the person was talking about adding a third one.
Thank you !
-
Yes that's why I was asking about 2, I didn't understand the person was talking about adding a third one.
Thank you !
That was me, I’ve had a mount point added on the top tube by the stem for a “fuel bag” rather than using straps, and another set on the underside of the bottom tube down by the crank which is a good place to mount a folding lock or another bottle if I want. It’s quite common on gravel bike frames. Wendy was fine with it and didn’t charge me extra.
-
What size would you guys recommend for me. I am 174cm with inseam around 79cm.
I've had s-works sl6 in size 54 with 80mm stem and currently Scott addict rc 2024 in size M with 90mm stem. Did bike fit on both. Friend is convinced I need to go with size 52. I think 54. Also not sure about stem. But I am guessing 100/110 for 52 and 90 for 54?
Thanks!
-
What size would you guys recommend for me. I am 174cm with inseam around 79cm.
I've had s-works sl6 in size 54 with 80mm stem and currently Scott addict rc 2024 in size M with 90mm stem. Did bike fit on both. Friend is convinced I need to go with size 52. I think 54. Also not sure about stem. But I am guessing 100/110 for 52 and 90 for 54?
Thanks!
Im 174cm with 77cm inseam, went size 50 and 380x110 dropbar, waiting for my order to be done and shipped.
-
What size would you guys recommend for me. I am 174cm with inseam around 79cm.
I've had s-works sl6 in size 54 with 80mm stem and currently Scott addict rc 2024 in size M with 90mm stem. Did bike fit on both. Friend is convinced I need to go with size 52. I think 54. Also not sure about stem. But I am guessing 100/110 for 52 and 90 for 54?
Thanks!
Surely If you’ve had a bike fit on both, why would be unsure of the size you need?
Use something like bike insights to compare the frames with your bike fit measurements.
-
What size would you guys recommend for me. I am 174cm with inseam around 79cm.
I've had s-works sl6 in size 54 with 80mm stem and currently Scott addict rc 2024 in size M with 90mm stem. Did bike fit on both. Friend is convinced I need to go with size 52. I think 54. Also not sure about stem. But I am guessing 100/110 for 52 and 90 for 54?
Thanks!
I'm 1.68m tall with a 78cm inseam and I bought a size 50 with 380x90 handlebars and it fits perfectly. I don't understand why you're thinking of a 54. Size 54 has a standover height of 78cm and 52 still has 76cm. I wonder how you'll manage with that 🤷🏻♂️
-
My frame arrived, it was perfectly packaged, and everything was in perfect condition. Everything is exactly as I ordered, with a significantly higher quality finish and, above all, a superior paint job. It's difficult to photograph and looks even better and very elegant in person. It's not exactly lightweight... with the paint job, 56cm frame, and storage compartment, it weighs 1190g. But that's fine by me. The fork weighs 460g, the handlebars 315g (380/100), and the seatpost 180g.
I'm very excited to see how the finished build looks. I would have found assembly instructions for, say, the headset helpful. Wendy doesn't offer anything like that. Otherwise, as I mentioned before, I had a pleasant and professional exchange with her. Incidentally, I specifically requested photos after completion. The storage compartment is fantastic; it's easy to use and very secure. From my current perspective, I wholeheartedly recommend a Lightcarbon frame!
-
I got pictures of a finished frame, but they had selected the wrong frame to paint.. I ordered lightest possible without storage, but this frame had storage. So if anyone wants a 47cm with storage box and gray decals, it might be available for shipping fast. I’ll wait for the correct frame. Happy about the look, though.
-
When all you get pictures of frame.. How long time after that you got frame? I have been waiting over 1 month now🥲🥲🫠
-
My frame arrived, it was perfectly packaged, and everything was in perfect condition. Everything is exactly as I ordered, with a significantly higher quality finish and, above all, a superior paint job. It's difficult to photograph and looks even better and very elegant in person. It's not exactly lightweight... with the paint job, 56cm frame, and storage compartment, it weighs 1190g. But that's fine by me. The fork weighs 460g, the handlebars 315g (380/100), and the seatpost 180g.
I'm very excited to see how the finished build looks. I would have found assembly instructions for, say, the headset helpful. Wendy doesn't offer anything like that. Otherwise, as I mentioned before, I had a pleasant and professional exchange with her. Incidentally, I specifically requested photos after completion. The storage compartment is fantastic; it's easy to use and very secure. From my current perspective, I wholeheartedly recommend a Lightcarbon frame!
What can you tell us about that saddle?
-
What can you tell us about that saddle?
The saddle is a custom-made, one-of-a-kind piece. I wanted a Vegvisir logo printed on it, ideally on my favorite saddle, the Selle Italia SLR Carbonio. However, this saddle is only available in colored upholstery, and I already have several of those. To allow the print to be applied, it had to be a hard shell, in this case, a Tune KommVor. It weighs 90g, including the silver effect paint. The artist is Mario Zinn from Germany. I'd be happy to put you in touch if you're interested. But it's not really cheap... :)
Here are a few more examples of my bikes...
-
When all you get pictures of frame.. How long time after that you got frame? I have been waiting over 1 month now🥲🥲🫠
In my case...20 days.
The tracking didn't work at all. I only saw an update after the package arrived.
-
The saddle is a custom-made, one-of-a-kind piece. I wanted a Vegvisir logo printed on it, ideally on my favorite saddle, the Selle Italia SLR Carbonio. However, this saddle is only available in colored upholstery, and I already have several of those. To allow the print to be applied, it had to be a hard shell, in this case, a Tune KommVor. It weighs 90g, including the silver effect paint. The artist is Mario Zinn from Germany. I'd be happy to put you in touch if you're interested. But it's not really cheap... :)
Here are a few more examples of my bikes...
Not the same but almost :
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHBizHW
-
It looks like my front derailleur is slightly touching the tire (Chaoyang 700x38C, 24 mm internal rim). The tires are not fully inflated yet.
I suspect the problem is the derailleur, as I’m struggling to align it with the big chainring. Many say the LCR18 is very easy to assemble, but I’m finding it harder than expected.
-
Francy68: That little clip on di2 cable needs to be tuck to a deraliuer body pointing straight down.
-
In my case...20 days.
The tracking didn't work at all. I only saw an update after the package arrived.
Ok! I haven't even received a possible tracking ID.
Well meybe i just wait little longer and ask later..
-
Another thing that is good to know about. I was pulling my hair out why it is not working during my build for hours. I wanted to have one 5mm spacer above Light Carbon HBR17 handlebar for some potential future handlebar height adjustments, but when I did put normal round spacer above my stem headset was preloaded just on one side and headset topcap started to rub frame.
Then I figure out top face of handlebars is not completely straight and perpendicular to steerer tube. So I had to printed out my own headset spacer with 2mm angled surface and now it works perfectly.
Iam not saying that is good or bad just "non-standard" and a thing to be aware of if you need adjust your handlebar height.
Original topcap that comes with a handlebars works perfectly out of a box it is just when you need to adjust your handlebar height and put some spacers above handlebars.
I think you will need this angled spacer if you will ever need to adjust your cockpit height and put some spacers above stem, because I have no idea how to do that with stock parts without custom printed spacer.
Hope that helps someone.
-
Hello,
I'm wondering if anybody has mounted a mechanical groupset on this frame and is it has been difficult to set ?
Thanks and happy new year in advance !
-
Iam not saying that is good or bad just "non-standard" and a thing to be aware of if you need adjust your handlebar height.
Original topcap that comes with a handlebars works perfectly out of a box it is just when you need to adjust your handlebar height and put some spacers above handlebars.
Is the bolt that runs through the OEM top cap that comes with those bars centered to, and at zero degrees, relative to the center of the steerer? Is the bottom of the OEM top cap angled like the spacer you printed?
-
jstrawks: Yeah, steerer tube plug is standard one and pretty good one, so bolt runs to center of steerer tube. I would say original top cap is angled, just to my eye looks not that much angled as I ended up on, but is hard to say original top cap is asymmetrical to every direction.
-
Happy New Year! (The date has already changed here in Japan)
The frame arrived at the end of November, and I built it up in early December. Since then, I've enjoyed a couple of weekend rides on it.
My previous bike was a 2008 Scott CR1 Team, so this was my first time assembling a disc‑brake road bike. But by following Shimano's dealer manual and some bike‑shop YouTube videos, I was able to complete the build without any confusion. Of course, I also referred to LC's videos and zealot128's videos—thank you for those.
Before assembly, I checked the inside of the frame with an endoscope, and it was very clean with no burrs.
The ride quality is excellent. Not too soft, not too stiff—neither boring nor punishing. It hits a perfect balance for me. The wheels certainly help, but cruising at around 40 kph feels easy, and I can really sense the aerodynamic efficiency. With my previous bike, riding into a headwind sometimes made me not want to ride at all, but with the LCR018‑D, I still feel like going out even when it's windy.
The paintwork is also fantastic.
My only personal complaint is the seat clamp. As others have mentioned, it's difficult to tighten with a preset‑type torque wrench. So I've ended up using the beam‑type torque wrench that came with my wife's Canyon Ultimate. Even with Finish Line Fiber Grip and tightening it to 7 8 Nm, the seatpost still slips about 5 mm after a ride.
(There was no problem if I tightened it to 8Nm.)
That said, I'm very satisfied overall. I had my friends test‑ride it as well, and it was very well received. I plan to take good care of this bike.
Wishing everyone great rides ahead!
<specs>
bike: Lightcarbon LCR018-D
size: 50 (I'm 1.71 m tall with a 81 cm inseam.)
handlebars: 400*80
seat post: 0 mm offset
painting: same painting design as Eurobike 2025's Instagram
option: 3D saddle, bottle cage BC205 *2, BB(Gineyea T47 30 mm)
group set: shimano Ultegra(R8170)
crank: Lexon carbon crank(162.5 mm, 30 mm shaft) w/ Sigeyi axo power meter
derailleur hanger: direct hanger(M12*1.0 thread pitch)
https://ourl.jp/lgyak (https://ourl.jp/lgyak)
wheel: 8LIEN L5W
tire: Continental GP5000 700*30C
tube: Panaracer purple lite(TPU)
pedal: Shimano PD-ES600
Total weight: 7.5 kg(w/pedal and light mount(Fr & Rr), w/o lights, Cycle computers, tools, and water bottles)
frame: 1046 g
fork: 435 g (before cutting)
seat post w/bracket: 185 g
handlebars: 313 g
saddle: 157g
bottle cage w/o bolt (BC205 *1): 21 g
I imagine only a very small number of people reading this thread are based in Japan, but for reference, shipping by EMS Express took about one week.
-----
By the way, someone here was looking for titanium replacement thru‑axles—did you ever find any? I've been searching as well but haven't had any luck. The LC ones are already light enough, so I'm thinking I might just order another set while they're still available.
-
To my knowledge, with glossy decals on matte frames, the stickers are on top of the paint.
For those who opted for glossy paint, the stickers are underneath the paint.
FYI:
My colour is ‘LCB-7207 Chameleon 7207’ and the decals are ‘laser-etched silver’.
I checked with Jim again because I was initially told that the logos were under the clear coat. Now he told me, ‘The laser-etched silver logo is a special outer label, located outside the transparent protective coating, but it is also baked at high temperatures and will not peel off.’ Thats a bit unfortunate, especially since I asked specifically about it beforehand.
-
Happy New Year! (The date has already changed here in Japan)
The frame arrived at the end of November, and I built it up in early December. Since then, I've enjoyed a couple of weekend rides on it.
My previous bike was a 2008 Scott CR1 Team, so this was my first time assembling a disc‑brake road bike. But by following Shimano's dealer manual and some bike‑shop YouTube videos, I was able to complete the build without any confusion. Of course, I also referred to LC's videos and zealot128's videos—thank you for those.
Before assembly, I checked the inside of the frame with an endoscope, and it was very clean with no burrs.
The ride quality is excellent. Not too soft, not too stiff—neither boring nor punishing. It hits a perfect balance for me. The wheels certainly help, but cruising at around 40 kph feels easy, and I can really sense the aerodynamic efficiency. With my previous bike, riding into a headwind sometimes made me not want to ride at all, but with the LCR018‑D, I still feel like going out even when it's windy.
The paintwork is also fantastic.
My only personal complaint is the seat clamp. As others have mentioned, it's difficult to tighten with a preset‑type torque wrench. So I've ended up using the beam‑type torque wrench that came with my wife's Canyon Ultimate. Even with Finish Line Fiber Grip and tightening it to 8 Nm, the seatpost still slips about 5 mm after a ride.
That said, I'm very satisfied overall. I had my friends test‑ride it as well, and it was very well received. I plan to take good care of this bike.
Wishing everyone great rides ahead!
<specs>
bike: Lightcarbon LCR018-D
size: 50 (I'm 1.71 m tall with a 81 cm inseam.)
handlebars: 400*80
seat post: 0 mm offset
painting: same painting design as Eurobike 2025's Instagram
option: 3D saddle, bottle cage BC205 *2, BB(Gineyea T47 30 mm)
group set: shimano Ultegra(R8170)
crank: Lexon carbon crank(162.5 mm, 30 mm shaft) w/ Sigeyi axo power meter
derailleur hanger: direct hanger(M12*1.0 thread pitch)
https://ourl.jp/lgyak (https://ourl.jp/lgyak)
wheel: 8LIEN L5W
tire: Continental GP5000 700*30C
tube: Panaracer purple lite(TPU)
pedal: Shimano PD-ES600
Total weight: 7.5 kg(w/pedal and light mount(Fr & Rr), w/o lights, Cycle computers, tools, and water bottles)
frame: 1046 g
fork: 435 g (before cutting)
seat post w/bracket: 185 g
handlebars: 313 g
saddle: 157g
bottle cage w/o bolt (BC205 *1): 21 g
I imagine only a very small number of people reading this thread are based in Japan, but for reference, shipping by EMS Express took about one week.
-----
By the way, someone here was looking for titanium replacement thru‑axles—did you ever find any? I've been searching as well but haven't had any luck. The LC ones are already light enough, so I'm thinking I might just order another set while they're still available.
Did you go with OEM bearings?
-
has anyone else had the seatpost slipping? i thought the earlier discussion was that the saddle clamp is hard to reach not that the post slips
-
has anyone else had the seatpost slipping? i thought the earlier discussion was that the saddle clamp is hard to reach not that the post slips
No at 7,4 N.m (75 kg). But I check the torque frequently (after each ride because you know... I am monk 😁).
-
> Did you go with OEM bearings?
I used the original headset bearings included with the frameset. Personally, I haven't noticed any problems, and it's working fine.
--
Regarding the seatpost slip, 8 Nm was fine. Sorry, I just misjudged the cover's position. ::)
When adjusting the height, I was sliding the cover up to read the scale, but after the ride, I was reading the scale with the cover in place. However, the seatpost actually slipped down by 5 mm at 6-7 Nm. For the time being, I will adjust the saddle height and check the torque before each ride. ;D
-
Here is the latest exchange with Wendy and my reply after I collected some poll responses
(https://i.imgur.com/kmLECuK.png)
disappointing. they admit their mistake but won't make it right. I am a former potential customer as of now. They should ask for the old frame back at their shipping cost and send you a correctly painted frame as you ordered. Anything else is bad service. They need to eat this mistake and improve their painting/customer service accuracy.
-
Hi all,
I received my frame end of last year and now had to claim a quality issue.
My fork has a deep scratch in the beginning of the tube and a lot of "dots" of missing material along the tube of the fork.
Anybody else got issues like this?
Everything else went perfect, painting is great, packaging was good etc.
Looking forward how lightcarbon will proceed.
for all, who are waiting:
Size 52
Ordered end of 10/25
adress confirmation on 04th Dec.
received 30th Dec.
-
Hi all,
I received my frame end of last year and now had to claim a quality issue.
My fork has a deep scratch in the beginning of the tube and a lot of "dots" of missing material along the tube of the fork.
Anybody else got issues like this?
Everything else went perfect, painting is great, packaging was good etc.
Looking forward how lightcarbon will proceed.
for all, who are waiting:
Size 52
Ordered end of 10/25
adress confirmation on 04th Dec.
received 30th Dec.
Do you have some pictures mate?
-
Build went great. Weight: 7.1kg
Size 50 unpainted (~60-120 grit from the factory).
Derailleurs, Shifters, Calipers: Sram Rival E1
Crankset: Sram Red D1 165, 35/48
Cassette: 11-36 Ali
Rotors: Shimano Dura Ace
Wheelset: XMCS CS-D50CU-36, 16/18 5mm bladed
Tires: GP5000 S TR 32c for the weighin and testing. Installing Michelin Pro 5 TLR next week
Stem: 100mm Aliexpress -17deg
Bars: Lambda X Wing
Pedals: Speedplay Comp w/ J&L Spindles
Seat: Westbiking Carbon Saddle.
Eddy current gauged to find the areas with thick resin (>20 mils) and sanded down to 5 mils & 400 grit. Recleared matte equivalent to SWorks RTP frames I've fondled. Frame and Fork weights through the process respectively: 972 -> 948 -> 953. 424-> 418 -> 421.
I can probably get to 6.9kg refinishing to raw carbon and cutting the seatpost, going from sealant to tpu tubes, and installing a tiny cassette, but it probably ceases being an all road, all climbs, long distance tank of a bike.
LIGHTCARBON waterslide decals are different logos than everyone else has LOL.
Didnt have tape and hoods installed for the picture since I was replacing them due to a crash on the previous bike. They're present for the weigh-in.
Ported over all the hardware from my Winspace T1550. Pedaling and sprint stiffness visibly higher when looking down riding on the trainer - as expected since the T1550 is a T800 carbon noodle bike. No other differences of note at equivalent saddle and bar positions.
I love the storage size and its no-bag aesthetic outcomes for the bike. My reference for in-bike storage is canyon endurace which is l insultingly small.
-
Why the -17 stem with added spacers?
-
It's the only stem and spacer combo in my appartment that gets me within millimeters of my old bike fit. I could slam it with a -10 90mm. Waiting for the Zeno Q Connectors V2 to come in before i toy around with stems again. I ordered them three weeks ago, who knows when they'll ship.
-
Build went great. Weight: 7.1kg
Size 50 unpainted (~60-120 grit from the factory).
Derailleurs, Shifters, Calipers: Sram Rival E1
Crankset: Sram Red D1 165, 35/48
Cassette: 11-36 Ali
Rotors: Shimano Dura Ace
Wheelset: XMCS CS-D50CU-36, 16/18 5mm bladed
Tires: GP5000 S TR 32c for the weighin and testing. Installing Michelin Pro 5 TLR next week
Stem: 100mm Aliexpress -17deg
Bars: Lambda X Wing
Pedals: Speedplay Comp w/ J&L Spindles
Seat: Westbiking Carbon Saddle.
Eddy current gauged to find the areas with thick resin (>20 mils) and sanded down to 5 mils & 400 grit. Recleared matte equivalent to SWorks RTP frames I've fondled. Frame and Fork weights through the process respectively: 972 -> 948 -> 953. 424-> 418 -> 421.
I can probably get to 6.9kg refinishing to raw carbon and cutting the seatpost, going from sealant to tpu tubes, and installing a tiny cassette, but it probably ceases being an all road, all climbs, long distance tank of a bike.
LIGHTCARBON waterslide decals are different logos than everyone else has LOL.
Didnt have tape and hoods installed for the picture since I was replacing them due to a crash on the previous bike. They're present for the weigh-in.
Ported over all the hardware from my Winspace T1550. Pedaling and sprint stiffness visibly higher when looking down riding on the trainer - as expected since the T1550 is a T800 carbon noodle bike. No other differences of note at equivalent saddle and bar positions.
I love the storage size and its no-bag aesthetic outcomes for the bike. My reference for in-bike storage is canyon endurace which is l insultingly small.
You're sanding the frame over 20-25g 🤔
My size 50 weighs 999g with a matte finish 🤷🏻♂️
-
The Scratch and those dots can bei fehlt with the fingernail.
The Scratch could bei a crack too, but i dont think so. I will check this with a camera.
What do you think about?
-
What do you think about?
This isn’t aimed at you specifically, but I think there are a lot of inexperienced bike builders on this forum who are paranoid and looking for issues.
I think the “crack” is a minuscule amount of extra resin from an overlap in the bag during the vacuum process.
Have you ever taken a look at a steerer tube from any other fork? I’ve seen the same on specialized, canyon, Cervelo, felt, Reilly and many others.
See what LC say, but I think you’re fine.
-
The Scratch and those dots can bei fehlt with the fingernail.
The Scratch could bei a crack too, but i dont think so. I will check this with a camera.
What do you think about?
Honestly, I don't see anything in the pictures that I would worry about if I were you. It looks fine and appropriate for the price 🤷🏻♂️
-
Build went great. Weight: 7.1kg
Size 50 unpainted (~60-120 grit from the factory).
Derailleurs, Shifters, Calipers: Sram Rival E1
Crankset: Sram Red D1 165, 35/48
Cassette: 11-36 Ali
Rotors: Shimano Dura Ace
Wheelset: XMCS CS-D50CU-36, 16/18 5mm bladed
Tires: GP5000 S TR 32c for the weighin and testing. Installing Michelin Pro 5 TLR next week
Stem: 100mm Aliexpress -17deg
Bars: Lambda X Wing
Pedals: Speedplay Comp w/ J&L Spindles
Seat: Westbiking Carbon Saddle.
Eddy current gauged to find the areas with thick resin (>20 mils) and sanded down to 5 mils & 400 grit. Recleared matte equivalent to SWorks RTP frames I've fondled. Frame and Fork weights through the process respectively: 972 -> 948 -> 953. 424-> 418 -> 421.
I can probably get to 6.9kg refinishing to raw carbon and cutting the seatpost, going from sealant to tpu tubes, and installing a tiny cassette, but it probably ceases being an all road, all climbs, long distance tank of a bike.
LIGHTCARBON waterslide decals are different logos than everyone else has LOL.
Didnt have tape and hoods installed for the picture since I was replacing them due to a crash on the previous bike. They're present for the weigh-in.
Ported over all the hardware from my Winspace T1550. Pedaling and sprint stiffness visibly higher when looking down riding on the trainer - as expected since the T1550 is a T800 carbon noodle bike. No other differences of note at equivalent saddle and bar positions.
I love the storage size and its no-bag aesthetic outcomes for the bike. My reference for in-bike storage is canyon endurace which is l insultingly small.
T1550 is not supposed to be stiff ? 😅
I am looking for you to make an outside ride in order to confirm that the LCR is stiffer than the T1550.
Also curious about your average speed at the same wattage.
-
Hi,
thank you for your estimation, that reassures.
I have checked the forks of my other bikes and couldn't find any similar characteristics.
I ruled out overlapping because it's curved / not straight, but I could be wrong here.
it might be too careful, but especially a breaking fork is my personal nightmare.
But I got no experience with frames from CN directly.
-
By the way, someone here was looking for titanium replacement thru‑axles—did you ever find any? I've been searching as well but haven't had any luck. The LC ones are already light enough, so I'm thinking I might just order another set while they're still available.
I have also checked and have not found anything that matches exactly. I considered messaging some sellers on Ali Express to see if they have/get/make an option to match our spec. But never did, as I was only trying to price out axles and did not want to waste the sellers time as I would not buy the axles yet. Maybe I'll try that once ready to buy them.
-
Has anyone installed a bigrock carbon crankset (with 24mm spindle) on this frame?
I can't find the spindle length spec of this crankset. Will it be long enough?
I've found a Miche T47 85.5-92mm for 24mm spindle that should work. Are there other BB's worth considering? I wouldn't mind saving some extra € on a good alternative
-
You're sanding the frame over 20-25g 🤔
My size 50 weighs 999g with a matte finish 🤷🏻♂️
The sanding part might save 20g, but to me it looks like his preferred clear coat is only a few grams and saves 25g, too. I support the project 🫡
Jim sent me a picture of the unpainted 47cm frame. He said clear coat would add 30g and logos 15g. (No gear hangers)
-
I ordered my frame at the beginning of November, and the quoted lead time was about 1.5 months, so delivery was expected around mid-December.
When I hadn’t heard anything by then, I contacted them and was told that it’s currently peak season. The updated estimate is now the end of the month, meaning late January.
So if you’re planning to order, keep these lead times in mind. Personally, I’m hoping to start the new season with this bike in March, so I’m crossing my fingers that it arrives just in time.
-
Sounds familiar :)
I ordered a 56 in raw matt in the first week of November. It was supposed to be in stock, but after payment, it wasn’t (maybe a mistake). Production should have take 45 days as of then, which means the frame would be ready before Christmas!
Beginning of December I asked about a the production date and potential shipping and got the following feedback:
“After the completion of the last production batch, the number of qualified units was insufficient, so we are waiting for the completion of a new batch of frame blanks.”
This added another 35 days on top >:(
I’m not convinced with the customer service as they are not proactive at all. You need to ask and chase them in every update - even if you already send arround 1000$ that’s not very professional.
-
Sounds familiar :)
I ordered a 56 in raw matt in the first week of November. It was supposed to be in stock, but after payment, it wasn’t (maybe a mistake). Production should have take 45 days as of then, which means the frame would be ready before Christmas!
Beginning of December I asked about a the production date and potential shipping and got the following feedback:
“After the completion of the last production batch, the number of qualified units was insufficient, so we are waiting for the completion of a new batch of frame blanks.”
This added another 35 days on top >:(
I’m not convinced with the customer service as they are not proactive at all. You need to ask and chase them in every update - even if you already send arround 1000$ that’s not very professional.
Proactive service 😂
You wouldn’t get anything more from Pinarello or Colnago when you place an order and it’s delayed.
-
the RT-MT800 i bought for the rear is bent and always rubs at the same point even after rotating its mounting position, is it worth trying to bend it back? for now i stuck the rotor from my gravel bike on, its pretty much built now i just need to wax the chain in the morning unfortunatly its been really icey the last few days and now its snowing
-
I recently mounted a brand new disc and have the same problem, but I only have to bend it back as you says and now it doensn't rub anymore (I used the park tool DT-2.2: https://www.parktool.com/en-int/product/rotor-truing-tool-dt-2-2?category=Brakes ).
-
the RT-MT800 i bought for the rear is bent and always rubs at the same point even after rotating its mounting position, is it worth trying to bend it back? for now i stuck the rotor from my gravel bike on, its pretty much built now i just need to wax the chain in the morning unfortunatly its been really icey the last few days and now its snowing
My brand new €50 SRAM Centerlock X brake disc is also rubbing in one spot at the rear 😬 Aligning the rear brake caliper is quite tricky 🙄
I also bent the brake disc and now it works.
-
Hey guys =) i love the frame! thinking about ordering one very soon.
did anyone go with a full chrome paintjob yet? if so, i would love to see pictures of it 8)
-
Hi,
I think I also need your help regarding the frame size I should order. I'm 1.85m and have a insame lenght of 88 or 88.5cm.
I would opt for a 58 size. Would you agree with me? Attached a picture from bike-stats.de (size 56/58) where I have compared my current frame I'm riding as a road bike for bikepacking, TT, bike2work, etc. since about 4 years with 20000 km so far. Pretty happy with it.
I'm running my TanTan with about 5cm spacers below and a 9cm stem.
Many thanks, Dennis
-
finished, i just need some nice weather to fine tune the shifting. actual weight is about 8.3 without pedals, i guess id need carbon cranks anda much better wheelset to compare with some of the builds people have posted happy with the build for what it cost though
-
Hi,
I think I also need your help regarding the frame size I should order. I'm 1.85m and have a insame lenght of 88 or 88.5cm.
I would opt for a 58 size. Would you agree with me? Attached a picture from bike-stats.de (size 56/58) where I have compared my current frame I'm riding as a road bike for bikepacking, TT, bike2work, etc. since about 4 years with 20000 km so far. Pretty happy with it.
I'm running my TanTan with about 5cm spacers below and a 9cm stem.
Many thanks, Dennis
If you’re on a bike and need 5 cm of spacers, it isn’t the right frame for you .
Using that as a basis to purchase another frame isn’t the right thing to do.
If you respond with “it fits me fine” then you don’t need anyone’s help in choosing an 18-D.
Maybe take this opportunity to do a myvelofit or get a bike fit.
-
If you’re on a bike and need 5 cm of spacers, it isn’t the right frame for you .
Using that as a basis to purchase another frame isn’t the right thing to do.
If you respond with “it fits me fine” then you don’t need anyone’s help in choosing an 18-D.
Maybe take this opportunity to do a myvelofit or get a bike fit.
I agree with this. I'm normally a "you do you" no-unsolicited-advice guy, but since the advice has been solicited, well...
I'd go further and say that if your current position is a proper fit on the Tan Tan then you like a short reach and a tall stack. I'd be looking at frames that put your hands, feet and butt i the same relative position to the bottom bracket with fewer spacers and a slightly longer stem (if possible).
Unless you're truly confident that your position is optimized, the suggestion to get a bike-fit is good advice.
You may be able to find LCR018 that fits you, and you may not.
-
What is the most slammed solution possible? Do you need to keep that fist spacer?
-
Yeah. You need to add 8mm to the stack to account for the bearing cap.
It’ll also reduce the reach by a couple of mm too
-
Yeah. You need to add 8mm to the stack to account for the bearing cap.
It’ll also reduce the reach by a couple of mm too
Does the cap itself set it a few mm back or is it due to the heat tube angle?
-
Does the cap itself set it a few mm back or is it due to the heat tube angle?
Head tube angle.
For those who don’t know.
The handle bar moves closer to the seat tube, the more spacers you add.
Exact distance depends on the head tube angle and amount of spacers, but 20mm of spacers will move the bars back about 7mm on a 72 degree HT
25mm of spacers and you should add 10mm to the stem length to compensate.
-
Received my frame on Monday ;D. Ordered at the end of October. Dispatched from China on 26th December, and recived on 5th January. Despite being delivered to the wrong property and left on a doorstep for a whole day in the snow, the parcel did make its way to me. On initial inspection all looks good and I am more than happy. The Ferrari Red looks as good as I had hoped. The paintwork is what I would call 95% good - which is as good as I need it to be. Excuse my messy room...
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3Mn0Xfq/P1050018.jpg)
I think someone asked about fitting two storage bags in the frame some pages ago in this thread, and I don't think it was ansered. The answer is yes - two bags can be fitted! However, it should be noted that there are no internal brake hoses in the frame at the moment and the bags were empty. The first one needs to go in up the frame. The second one, down the frame towards the BB. You can't remove the upper one without removing the lower one first. I bought two bags and I though I would keep one as a spare, but it's good to know I can use both at the same time if need be.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5jFqbW9/P1050014.jpg)
-
I think someone asked about fitting two storage bags in the frame some pages ago in this thread, and I don't think it was ansered. The answer is yes - two bags can be fitted! However, it should be noted that there are no internal brake hoses in the frame at the moment and the bags were empty. The first one needs to go in up the frame. The second one, down the frame towards the BB. You can't remove the upper one without removing the lower one first. I bought two bags and I though I would keep one as a spare, but it's good to know I can use both at the same time if need be.
Nice! Im impatiently waiting for someone to make an electronic pump that can fit in downtube storages. Also, the additional top tube mounts are clutch!
-
Nice! Im impatiently waiting for someone to make an electronic pump that can fit in downtube storages. Also, the additional top tube mounts are clutch!
I’d be astounded if a Cycplus As2 Ultra didn’t fit. I’ll check when my frames delivered.
Or someone can guesstimate if they can be bothered 65mm (Length) x 47.5mm (Width) x 28mm (Height)
-
I think someone asked about fitting two storage bags in the frame some pages ago in this thread, and I don't think it was ansered. The answer is yes - two bags can be fitted! However, it should be noted that there are no internal brake hoses in the frame at the moment and the bags were empty. The first one needs to go in up the frame. The second one, down the frame towards the BB. You can't remove the upper one without removing the lower one first. I bought two bags and I though I would keep one as a spare, but it's good to know I can use both at the same time if need be.
Thank you, I had asked. I appreciate you trying that for me! I got Ferrari Red too but your seatpost painted to match is nice. How is the fitment with paint and you'll have to let us know how it holds up after being inserted/removed a few times. Curious to see the paint does.
-
I’d be astounded if a Cycplus As2 Ultra didn’t fit. I’ll check when my frames delivered.
Or someone can guesstimate if they can be bothered 65mm (Length) x 47.5mm (Width) x 28mm (Height)
It fits, but not when in the frame bag. It also needs to be halfway in the opening; otherwise, the front lip of the cover can not get under the carbon, and the hinge can not be closed.
-
Awesome 🤗.
I’m surprised it’s so tight, but it’s in there 🤓.
-
Received my frame on Monday ;D. Ordered at the end of October. Dispatched from China on 26th December, and recived on 5th January. Despite being delivered to the wrong property and left on a doorstep for a whole day in the snow, the parcel did make its way to me. On initial inspection all looks good and I am more than happy. The Ferrari Red looks as good as I had hoped. The paintwork is what I would call 95% good - which is as good as I need it to be. Excuse my messy room...
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3Mn0Xfq/P1050018.jpg)
I think someone asked about fitting two storage bags in the frame some pages ago in this thread, and I don't think it was ansered. The answer is yes - two bags can be fitted! However, it should be noted that there are no internal brake hoses in the frame at the moment and the bags were empty. The first one needs to go in up the frame. The second one, down the frame towards the BB. You can't remove the upper one without removing the lower one first. I bought two bags and I though I would keep one as a spare, but it's good to know I can use both at the same time if need be.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5jFqbW9/P1050014.jpg)
Are you in UK by any chance? Who was UK side courier with - ParcelForce? Mine also dispatched on 26th but is yet to materialise, it's been stuck 'at delivery office' since 5th, the tracking seems really flaky.
-
Are you in UK by any chance? Who was UK side courier with - ParcelForce? Mine also dispatched on 26th but is yet to materialise, it's been stuck 'at delivery office' since 5th, the tracking seems really flaky.
im in the UK, mine was sent with UPS i dont think the tracking is accurate because it went from departing hong kong on the 23rd to being delivered on the 24th but it was pretty quick, carol gave me the tracking number on the 19th so it only took 5 days. no fees either
-
Received my frame on Monday ;D. Ordered at the end of October. Dispatched from China on 26th December, and recived on 5th January. Despite being delivered to the wrong property and left on a doorstep for a whole day in the snow, the parcel did make its way to me. On initial inspection all looks good and I am more than happy. The Ferrari Red looks as good as I had hoped. The paintwork is what I would call 95% good - which is as good as I need it to be. Excuse my messy room...
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3Mn0Xfq/P1050018.jpg)
I think someone asked about fitting two storage bags in the frame some pages ago in this thread, and I don't think it was ansered. The answer is yes - two bags can be fitted! However, it should be noted that there are no internal brake hoses in the frame at the moment and the bags were empty. The first one needs to go in up the frame. The second one, down the frame towards the BB. You can't remove the upper one without removing the lower one first. I bought two bags and I though I would keep one as a spare, but it's good to know I can use both at the same time if need be.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5jFqbW9/P1050014.jpg)
Top tube mounts! What did LC charge for those?
-
Are you in UK by any chance? Who was UK side courier with - ParcelForce? Mine also dispatched on 26th but is yet to materialise, it's been stuck 'at delivery office' since 5th, the tracking seems really flaky.
Yes - I'm in the UK. I didn't see who delivered this as it was left at the wrong address. I assume it was ParcelForce as the wheels I ordered previously from LC we delivered by ParcelForce.
-
Top tube mounts! What did LC charge for those?
There was no extra charge that I could see on my invoice ;D.
-
It fits, but not when in the frame bag. It also needs to be halfway in the opening; otherwise, the front lip of the cover can not get under the carbon, and the hinge can not be closed.
Sweet, thanks for checking!
-
Update for those curious about fixing the paint chip on my frame, previously posted about in the forum.
In my last post, LC was going to pay for the frame to be shipped back, repaired, and then shipped back to me.
TL;DR – It took a little bit of time to deal with the situation, but we came to a solution I’m very happy with! I would buy another frame from them in the future, no questions asked.
Slightly longer version – LC said they would arrange for a shipping company to pick up the frame; I just had to box it up. After some time and no shipping details provided, that turned into me bringing it to my local EMS. I would send the frame out, and LC would then reimburse me. When I went to ship the frame, it was going to be $600, so to be safe, I did not ship it. I wanted to make sure LC was fine with the shipping amount as it was a lot. I then checked UPS/Purolator, which online estimated $2,500… wild prices to ship back a frame. I went back to LC to confirm what they wanted to do. LC again told me they would arrange the shipping back to them. After some difficulty with the shipping company, I went back to pushing for a partial refund. At this point, I wanted to put this to an end. We agreed on a partial refund that I was happy with.
To LC’s credit, Chloe was responsive the whole time. LC was very adamant about taking the frame back to fix the paint and ship it back. They wanted to solve the problem properly, even though it was WAY more costly than the partial refund. LC admitted the partial refund was less than the total shipping they would pay but still wanted to fix the frame’s paint. I pushed for the refund as I wanted to have this done now. My concern was estimating 6–8 weeks minimum to get it back—shipping both ways, repair time, and Chinese New Year. It would be getting me close to spring for the frame to be back, and then I would still have to build the frame up. Hence why I pushed for the refund, so I can fix the paint myself and then build the frame.
I give LC a solid 4.5/5 for how they handled the situation—especially when it’s very possible the damage to the paint could have been caused by shipping. They were very adamant about paying more to fix the paint properly, never pushed or initiated the cheap/easy solution, and still wanted to fix the paint when I pushed for the partial refund. Big props to LC for standing by their product. They lose the 0.5 because of the response times. Based on the time difference, we were lucky to exchange one email a day, which really draws out the communication. I only take 0.5 off for that because I knew that going into buying the frame, but it’s still part of my experience as a customer. If I build another frame in the future, LC would be considered. Based on this customer service, I would not hesitate to recommend Chloe at LC to buy a frame from.
I will post pictures of the paint repair once I’ve done it, for those who are interested.
-
There was no extra charge that I could see on my invoice ;D.
Were you able to specify the position of the mounts, relative to the headset?
-
Were you able to specify the position of the mounts, relative to the headset?
I didn't ask. They just put the mounts in the location which, I guess, is 'standard'. For reference they are positioned at 75mm and 140mm behind the stem. That's the distance from the back of where the black plastic trim sits to the centre of the mounting holes, and this is a size 52 frame (I hope that makes sense).
-
For those who have built up a 2x drive train - did your frame come with a FD mounting bolt? I didn't get one with my frame or my Rival E1 front derailleur. Maybe I missed it somewhere.
-
For those who have built up a 2x drive train - did your frame come with a FD mounting bolt? I didn't get one with my frame or my Rival E1 front derailleur. Maybe I missed it somewhere.
My Force E1 front derailleur came with that bolt if I recall correctly.
-
My Force E1 front derailleur came with that bolt if I recall correctly.
You're totally right, I looked again and found it in the derailleur box.
-
I didn't ask. They just put the mounts in the location which, I guess, is 'standard'. For reference they are positioned at 75mm and 140mm behind the stem. That's the distance from the back of where the black plastic trim sits to the centre of the mounting holes, and this is a size 52 frame (I hope that makes sense).
Thanks for this information.
-
For those of you with this frame, I know that some frames with a similar head tube to fork interface, such as the Winspace T-1600 have an issue with paint on paint contact when the bars are turned sufficiently.
Can you tell me if the circled corner in this image makes contact with the fork if you turn the bars that far?
-
For those of you with this frame, I know that some frames with a similar head tube to fork interface, such as the Winspace T-1600 have an issue with paint on paint contact when the bars are turned sufficiently.
Can you tell me if the circled corner in this image makes contact with the fork if you turn the bars that far?
No.
-
I created a topic on the sales sub-forum but if you have not read it, I sell my LCR018-D in size 54 like brand new because of a wrong size (with HBR17 360*110 mm and two seaposts). PM if you want.
-
No.
I don't disbelieve you, but those photos don't illustrate that corner not contacting the fork when the bars are turned all the way. The curve of the fork is sufficient to allow that corner to clear the fork through the entire range of motion?
-
I don't disbelieve you, but those photos don't illustrate that corner not contacting the fork when the bars are turned all the way. The curve of the fork is sufficient to allow that corner to clear the fork through the entire range of motion?
To be honnest, I thought that I took a video but it was pictures instead 😅.
I did not have the bravery to take "another" video. I will do it tomorrow of nobody does this before.
-
Hey guys =) i love the frame! thinking about ordering one very soon.
did anyone go with a full chrome paintjob yet? if so, i would love to see pictures of it 8)
You should order now, cause it might 3 months to arrive ✌️upon payment.
-
What is this spacer for that i got with the headset bits? Do i need to use it?
-
To be honnest, I thought that I took a video but it was pictures instead 😅.
I did not have the bravery to take "another" video. I will do it tomorrow of nobody does this before.
Thanks!
-
Has anyone tried 650b wheels? Wondering if you could squeeze in a little bigger tires that way.
-
What is this spacer for that i got with the headset bits? Do i need to use it?
The spacer goes at the very bottom, between the metal ring that sits on the ball bearing and the base of the spacer. If you don't use it, it might rub against the frame on the top tube where the arrow is.
-
I created a topic on the sales sub-forum but if you have not read it, I sell my LCR018-D in size 54 like brand new because of a wrong size (with HBR17 360*110 mm and two seaposts). PM if you want.
BeR, may I ask which direction it's wrong size - too small or too large?
Having read whole thread couple times and about to order, I noticed you are similar size to me (181cm, 86cm inseam). Narrowing to size 54, and would be nice to hear your comments on sizing. Also noticed your sales post, but I am too eager for glossy finish :)
Regarding slammed setup and which covers / spaces needs to be there to know actual stack of setup is bit unclear. How to read this:
"There should be no reason why the bar can’t sit directly on top of the bearing cap. It’s the only mandatory interface needed.
Compression ring. 8.3mm
Cover. 10mm
Thick spacer. 10mm
Thin spacer 5mm"
For the sizing I hear comments about getting proper bike fit. However, I was not able to find decent fitter in my region. Also think it's part of the build and hobby to experiment. Seeing multiple size discussions in this thread, maybe someone can say if my thinking is completely false.
Current bike is Kona Rove ST 2018, size 54. A relaxed gavel bike. I have played with multiple stems and swapped to more narrow handle bar. I am trying to replicate reach and stack of the setup. With my testing I have figured out that I don't want any longer bike. Frame reach is 388mm and stem 90mm. LCR018 size 54 I could then choose 90mm or 100mm stem to match this.
This will be my first road bike, so I have no experience of how low I should go with stack. I tested my current setup removing all spacers and invertin stem to negative -6 degrees. Feels fine and I could go lower. Kona frame stack is 590mm vs, LR 54 569mm, difference of 21mm. With 8mm rise on handle bar this results 13mm. But are there other components I need to add? Tryin to figure how low I can go.
-
BeR, may I ask which direction it's wrong size - too small or too large?
Having read whole thread couple times and about to order, I noticed you are similar size to me (181cm, 86cm inseam). Narrowing to size 54, and would be nice to hear your comments on sizing. Also noticed your sales post, but I am too eager for glossy finish :)
Regarding slammed setup and which covers / spaces needs to be there to know actual stack of setup is bit unclear. How to read this:
"There should be no reason why the bar can’t sit directly on top of the bearing cap. It’s the only mandatory interface needed.
Compression ring. 8.3mm
Cover. 10mm
Thick spacer. 10mm
Thin spacer 5mm"
For the sizing I hear comments about getting proper bike fit. However, I was not able to find decent fitter in my region. Also think it's part of the build and hobby to experiment. Seeing multiple size discussions in this thread, maybe someone can say if my thinking is completely false.
Current bike is Kona Rove ST 2018, size 54. A relaxed gavel bike. I have played with multiple stems and swapped to more narrow handle bar. I am trying to replicate reach and stack of the setup. With my testing I have figured out that I don't want any longer bike. Frame reach is 388mm and stem 90mm. LCR018 size 54 I could then choose 90mm or 100mm stem to match this.
This will be my first road bike, so I have no experience of how low I should go with stack. I tested my current setup removing all spacers and invertin stem to negative -6 degrees. Feels fine and I could go lower. Kona frame stack is 590mm vs, LR 54 569mm, difference of 21mm. With 8mm rise on handle bar this results 13mm. But are there other components I need to add? Tryin to figure how low I can go.
I won't go into details, but the bike is for my wife, who is shorter than me, hence the wrong size. Otherwise, it's perfect for me.
-
Thanks!
As promise, here you are.
-
Just sharing, requested installation of top tube mounts and they granted my request for no additional charge. Paid invoice dec 15 2025 and my frame is still on production size 50.
-
Just sharing, requested installation of top tube mounts and they granted my request for no additional charge. Paid invoice dec 15 2025 and my frame is still on production size 50.
Good to know. My size 56 was paid on the same day. Carol assured me it would be shipped before Chinese new year. Can't wait 8)
-
I paid on the 7th Dec for a 52 with no paint or decals. I was quoted 1.5 months before shipping.
Fingers crossed, it’s sent before NY.
-
As promise, here you are.
Thank you! That's very helpful. I can't imagine what other manufacturers of similar designs but with paint-on-paint contact points are thinking. It's not that hard to avoid.
-
Thank you! That's very helpful. I can't imagine what other manufacturers of similar designs but with paint-on-paint contact points are thinking. It's not that hard to avoid.
You are welcome. If you need more videos or something else, let me know.
-
The spacer goes at the very bottom, between the metal ring that sits on the ball bearing and the base of the spacer. If you don't use it, it might rub against the frame on the top tube where the arrow is.
Are you sure? Isn't that one just for use if you're not using a fully integrated handlebar? (Happy to be proved wrong; I've just built a GR201 clone and it had a similar piece with the frame I didn't need to use as I was fitting it with a Lexon Unox integrated handlebar set).
-
Are you sure? Isn't that one just for use if you're not using a fully integrated handlebar? (Happy to be proved wrong; I've just built a GR201 clone and it had a similar piece with the frame I didn't need to use as I was fitting it with a Lexon Unox integrated handlebar set).
IIRC, I did not use this and I don't have any rub.
-
I’d assume it depends on what headset bearings you use.
Some are 7mm, and some are 6.5 deep
-
I finished my build last night. Size 58 with SRAM Force E1 and 9Velo LV Wide wheels with 32mm GP5000 S TR. I am 185cm tall with a 86cm inseam and I was torn between size 56 and 58, but I compared the geometry with my current bike and the size 58 with a 120mm stem matched the closest. I've been fitted in the past on my old bike and I am quite happy with the fit. I am running 2x 10mm spacers on the new bike, so I have room to lower the bars in the future if need be. I don't have a proper hanging scale, but I estimated about 18lbs total with a bathroom scale. I inspected the frame with a borescope before I built it up and it looked very clean. I'm happy with the paint as well, it is a variation on the Eurobike paint scheme with the marble red paint and matte black.
This was my first full build from the frame up and it went smoothly. The brake hose routing was a little tedious, but it wasn't too bad. I just used a small pick to guide the hose through the fork and bars. The brake mounts and bottom bracket areas were super clean and I didn't have any alignment issues at all. Like others have said, the saddle clamp is a little fiddly, but I added some carbon paste to the clamp and it seems to be holding just fine.
I haven't had the daylight to go for a real ride yet, but the quick spin around the block was promising. This is my first new bike since riding my 2014 CAAD 10 rim brake bike for the last decade+, so I'm sure it will be a massive upgrade for me.
-
I finished my build last night. Size 58 with SRAM Force E1 and 9Velo LV Wide wheels with 32mm GP5000 S TR. I am 185cm tall with a 86cm inseam and I was torn between size 56 and 58, but I compared the geometry with my current bike and the size 58 with a 120mm stem matched the closest. I've been fitted in the past on my old bike and I am quite happy with the fit. I am running 2x 10mm spacers on the new bike, so I have room to lower the bars in the future if need be. I don't have a proper hanging scale, but I estimated about 18lbs total with a bathroom scale. I inspected the frame with a borescope before I built it up and it looked very clean. I'm happy with the paint as well, it is a variation on the Eurobike paint scheme with the marble red paint and matte black.
This was my first full build from the frame up and it went smoothly. The brake hose routing was a little tedious, but it wasn't too bad. I just used a small pick to guide the hose through the fork and bars. The brake mounts and bottom bracket areas were super clean and I didn't have any alignment issues at all. Like others have said, the saddle clamp is a little fiddly, but I added some carbon paste to the clamp and it seems to be holding just fine.
I haven't had the daylight to go for a real ride yet, but the quick spin around the block was promising. This is my first new bike since riding my 2014 CAAD 10 rim brake bike for the last decade+, so I'm sure it will be a massive upgrade for me.
Stunning build. That bar tape is a nice touch. The bar plugs are just the right touch of bling. I'm running that same wheel/tire combination on my Ti allroad, and the even-wider 9Velos on my gravel bike. I'm a fan.
-
Stunning build. That bar tape is a nice touch. The bar plugs are just the right touch of bling. I'm running that same wheel/tire combination on my Ti allroad, and the even-wider 9Velos on my gravel bike. I'm a fan.
Nice! I'm curious if you've checked tension on your wheels and if you've had to make any adjustments so far. How many miles do you have on the road set?
-
Nice! I'm curious if you've checked tension on your wheels and if you've had to make any adjustments so far. How many miles do you have on the road set?
Very few miles. They'll be doing a century in February. I don't own a tensionometer and tend to not worry unless there's an evident problem. Dod you see issues with tension?
-
Very few miles. They'll be doing a century in February. I don't own a tensionometer and tend to not worry unless there's an evident problem. Dod you see issues with tension?
I haven't checked mine yet, but they seem nice and true and tension seems good judging by the pitch test. . I was just curious because I've had issues with tension on my mtb wheels (different beast).
-
Lambda, a German company, is now using the LightCarbon LCR018D frame for their new Twin Force all-road/gravel bike.
https://www.lambda-racing.de/lambda-twin-force-road-gravel-rennrad
-
who the fuck would give a company €4500 when all they have to show is some AI edited pictures? i dont know what sram cost so no idea if their prices are fair, i also think if you want to put your own branding on something you sould atleast come up with your own colourway
-
Hilarious, on multiple levels. Only in Europe is this a gravel bike.
-
Hilarious, on multiple levels. Only in Europe is this a gravel bike.
All the better, now I can sell mine here in Germany as a branded product too 🤣
-
They promise 40 mm tire clearance on the rear triangle and offer a 40 mm Conti tire in the configurator. I'm sure it won't fit. The Hutchinson Caracal Race is 42.6 mm wide on my rims and is already too wide for the rear triangle. The 40 mm tire will only fit if it is no wider than 40 mm. However, this will always be the case on modern wide rims.
-
Paint has been repaired. Very happy for some nail polish. First picture is before, second is a close up and third is from a step back. I'd say at this point if you didn't know to look for it, you'd never notice. Final pic of the bike partially built up, waiting for some more parts to arrive.
-
who the fuck would give a company €4500 when all they have to show is some AI edited pictures? i dont know what sram cost so no idea if their prices are fair, i also think if you want to put your own branding on something you sould atleast come up with your own colourway
You should check out the saddles they’re selling. They’re straight-up the exact same AliExpress carbon saddles — and they’re charging over €100 for them. Seriously, who on earth is buying that at those prices?
-
To install 3rd party cockpit or to deploy separate stem + handlebar, which adapters should I request with the frame, FSA?
Initially I plan to use HBR17 but for possible adjustments in future. Which extra spare parts have you ordered?
-
Lambda, a German company, is now using the LightCarbon LCR018D frame for their new Twin Force all-road/gravel bike.
https://www.lambda-racing.de/lambda-twin-force-road-gravel-rennrad
(https://static.wixstatic.com/media/854c99_f671be6ece5f4f819b69074a3416bf55~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_740,h_413,al_c,q_90,enc_auto/854c99_f671be6ece5f4f819b69074a3416bf55~mv2.jpg)
This picture is so foul: implicating windtunnel testing, but its just an AI generate picture. Should be illegal
-
I suspect Lambda is paying retail and marking them up, relying on suckers. I'm guessing their lead time is LC's lead time+. I suspect they hold zero inventory. I suspect they plan to order the LC colorway sans downtube logis, which they'll apply.
I think LC should refuse their orders.
-
This is how my potential order is shaping up:
frame 600
paint +135
shipping +189
____________________________________________
$924
top tube mounts +0
additional alternate seatpost +53
additional front derailleur mount +5
additional derailleur hanger +10
additional storage box cover +10
additional 5mm headset spacers +2
additional 10mm headset spacers +2
additional seatpost clamp +10
additional seatpost clamp rubber cover +5
additional internal storage bag +10
____________________________________________
+$107
_____________________________________________
$1031
additional painted fork +99
_____________________________________________
$1130
-
This is how my potential order is shaping up:
frame 600
paint +135
shipping +189
____________________________________________
top tube mounts +0
additional alternate seatpost +53
additional front derailleur mount +5
additional derailleur hanger +10
additional storage box cover +10
additional 5mm headset spacers +2
additional 10mm headset spacers +2
additional seatpost clamp +10
additional seatpost clamp rubber cover +5
additional internal storage bag +10
____________________________________________
+
_____________________________________________
additional painted fork +99
_____________________________________________
99 for fork paint or are you ordering 2 forks?
If so, why?
-
This is how my potential order is shaping up:
frame 600
paint +135
shipping +189
____________________________________________
$924
top tube mounts +0
additional alternate seatpost +53
additional front derailleur mount +5
additional derailleur hanger +10
additional storage box cover +10
additional 5mm headset spacers +2
additional 10mm headset spacers +2
additional seatpost clamp +10
additional seatpost clamp rubber cover +5
additional internal storage bag +10
____________________________________________
+$107
_____________________________________________
$1031
additional painted fork +99
_____________________________________________
$1130
My extra storage door was 28usd
-
(https://static.wixstatic.com/media/854c99_f671be6ece5f4f819b69074a3416bf55~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_740,h_413,al_c,q_90,enc_auto/854c99_f671be6ece5f4f819b69074a3416bf55~mv2.jpg)
This picture is so foul: implicating windtunnel testing, but its just an AI generate picture. Should be illegal
i wonder if that clothing company knows they are using their name in their ai slop, the frame is different in that image as well
-
99 for fork paint or are you ordering 2 forks?
If so, why?
Might order a second fork, just in case I decide I want a higher stack later...or I might not order it.
-
My extra storage door was 28usd
I was quoted $10.
-
i wonder if that clothing company knows they are using their name in their ai slop, the frame is different in that image as well
Yeah, I wish I could get a fork from LC without the silly lobes on the dropouts. Maybe I should buy an AI slop fork!
-
Are there others here who are experiencing a delay of 20/30 days compared to the original information provided when ordering? And payed **
-
I paid for a size 54 frame on 11/26 and was told 30 to 40 days for production then 15 for shipping. Still waiting
-
I paid for the frame size 56 on October 20th and it arrived on Friday. Everything looks fine, the paint quality is excellent, I'm waiting for the remaining components.
-
I paid for a size 54 frame on 11/18 and was told 20 days for production and 25 days for the custom paint job. Got notified last week that they need 2 more weeks to get the frame ready (issues with cold weather and painting). Also ordered the RD923-50C wheels from LC at the same time. They were shipped from China to the Netherlands on the 24th of December and received them today.
-
I paid for the frame size 56 on October 20th and it arrived on Friday. Everything looks fine, the paint quality is excellent, I'm waiting for the remaining components.
I’ll probably order their 2026 aero bike and get this colour combination, but silver into raw carbon.
Looks really good
-
I received my size 52 on 1/9, ordered 11/19. Around 3 weeks shipping to Europe.
-
Hi !
Do all of you guys have bought a frame for 600$ ?
Do you know which Garmin hanger is possible to mount on the HB17 ?
Thanks !
-
Hi !
Do all of you guys have bought a frame for 600$ ?
Do you know which Garmin hanger is possible to mount on the HB17 ?
Thanks !
$649 for the frame +$2 for an extra spacer. See the breakdown of everything.
The stock out front mount that comes with the bars should fit as they give you the adapter for a few different head units. I got the titanium mount and with the adapter, fits my garmin.
-
Hi all!
Wondering if anyone has fitted their own/non-LightCarbon handlebars to the frame and can talk me through the process?
I'm talking with LC but they are unable to provide clear information on what headset and cover they ship when no handlebars are ordered.
Thanks!
-
$649 for the frame +$2 for an extra spacer. See the breakdown of everything.
The stock out front mount that comes with the bars should fit as they give you the adapter for a few different head units. I got the titanium mount and with the adapter, fits my garmin.
Thanks a lot !
-
Morning all just a quick update on my LCR018-D.
Been riding it now for 1000km without a single problem of any kind - the bike is so smooth and reliable.
I bought it as my everyday, all weather bike and it couldn't have lived up to its billing any better - absolutely brilliant.
I have just got my hands on a Cervelo S3 frameset which I am building up as my "best" summer bike, so that has meant some changes for the LCR018-D.
All the premium parts I had (Ultegra 8170 di2 galfer rotors) have been taken off to do the new build.
Ive now re-built the LCR018-D with 105 di2 and if you blindfolded me, not a chance I could tell the difference. This groupset is superb.
I guess there's a slight weight penalty, but its irrelevant for this bike and its still not heavy by any means, the bike still feels lovely to ride.
The HBR17 handlebars just didn't suit me at all, so I took this opportunity to replace with a set of Toseek bars.
A more traditional aero shaped integrated bar - and for me it's a massive difference. They are much more comfortable for me.
Fitting was easy as the included spacers are I think identical to the LightCarbon ones so that made life very simple.
The carbon effect finish on the bars also matches in very well with the bare carbon finish on the frame.
I got the Garmin mount off Aliexpress too, but due to the angle of the bars, its facing downwards (seems to be a trend with the racers these days), but its not for me, so ill replace with something that gives a nice horizontal finish.
Final additions are a set of purple VXM rotors (160/140) from Aliexpress and NT-BP036 Semi Metallic pads from Noah & Theo on eBay.
Both of these brake recommendations came from Luke (Trace Velo) on YouTube and I can confirm they are excellent choices.
Not only do the rotors look superb, but the combination gives great stopping power and modulation and appears to be silent so far (wet weather testing today to see how they perform).
I like them so much that when the Galfers wear out on the S3 build, I will replace with these as well. For the price they are crazy good.
That should be all the changes in the meantime, just loads of hopefully happy miles to come.
I will be selling my HBR17 handlebars (80mm length, 400mm width), so if anyone is interested, just let me know.
(https://i.ibb.co/MxT7NqjF/IMG-1901-Medium.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wFH46Db5)
(https://i.ibb.co/mVj8LbFZ/IMG-1902-Medium.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G46TKn3Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/XxvBW1dR/IMG-1903-Medium.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fdPRXfKw)
-
I’ll probably order their 2026 aero bike and get this colour combination
What aero bike are you talking about? you have my interest
-
Can someone let me know if
SRAM bottom braket DUB | T47 85.5 mm
will fit into the frame? There is also a wide version available with spacers. Many thanks, Dennis
-
Fits well.
The spacers are used on the Spindle of the Crank, not at the BB (like BSA BBs). Wide is for Gravel Groupsets (XPLR) and non Wide for Road.
SRAM Code for Road:
00.6418.033.000
Big recommendation for the Wolf Tooth BBS5216 Nut. Works really well with my torque wrench. Not slipping at all.
-
Thanks @paul_otta!
I will be installing SRAM RED Aero 1x crankset (12-speed, chainline 45,0 mm) and chainring in combination with 1x13 RED XPLR rear derailleur.
In the description of SRAM RED Aero 1x crankset I just read:
Compatibility bottom braket: SRAM DUB Wide Road
So I think I have to go with the wide version.
-
Thanks @paul_otta!
I will be installing SRAM RED Aero 1x crankset (12-speed, chainline 45,0 mm) and chainring in combination with 1x13 RED XPLR rear derailleur.
In the description of SRAM RED Aero 1x crankset I just read:
Compatibility bottom braket: SRAM DUB Wide Road
So I think I have to go with the wide version.
SRAM 13-speed XPLR, to my knowledge, requires a DUB Wide crankset and therefore a 47.5mm chainline. I installed the original SRAM T47 DUB Wide bottom bracket and it works perfectly with the frame.
-
I’m doing the opposite. Road bb and non wide Red crank.
Wide is only 5mm wider, so 2.5 mm per side.
I’ll tune the chainline with different offset chainrings if needed, but a 6.5mm offset should be fine.
-
The HBR17 handlebars just didn't suit me at all, so I took this opportunity to replace with a set of Toseek bars.
A more traditional aero shaped integrated bar - and for me it's a massive difference. They are much more comfortable for me.
Nice build! How did it not fit? I would understand if the 8mm rise would be bad, because I’m not sure I will get it slammed enough, but you are running plenty spacers..
-
Nice build! How did it not fit? I would understand if the 8mm rise would be bad, because I’m not sure I will get it slammed enough, but you are running plenty spacers..
It was the angle on the tops that I have a problem with.
For me, it was not a nice position to be in and felt uncomfortable and unnatural.
Reverting to a flat style bar has been fantastic for me, so much more comfort.
Everyone is different of course, so we find what works for ourselves.
-
I paid for the frame size 56 on October 20th and it arrived on Friday. Everything looks fine, the paint quality is excellent, I'm waiting for the remaining components.
What colour is that?
-
chrome silver + glossy black
-
I’ll probably order their 2026 aero bike and get this colour combination, but silver into raw carbon.
Looks really good
I inquired about a chrome silver into glossy raw carbon and Carol said it might be possible a few months ago. She also said top tube mounts were not possible so clearly things changed over time.
-
I inquired about a chrome silver into glossy raw carbon and Carol said it might be possible a few months ago. She also said top tube mounts were not possible so clearly things changed over time.
So not possible anylonger? If so, did she explained why not longer possible?
-
Hello,
I have a question regarding the seat post. I see that in certain orders there are seat lost with 15mm offset or 0mm offset and I don't know what it mean. Can somebody help me with this please ?
An other question is about the bars width. My shoulder are 400, so I must order a 400 or a380 as the measurement is taken in the middle of the bars ?
Thank you again !
Dam
-
Hello,
I have a question regarding the seat post. I see that in certain orders there are seat lost with 15mm offset or 0mm offset and I don't know what it mean. Can somebody help me with this please ?
An other question is about the bars width. My shoulder are 400, so I must order a 400 or a380 as the measurement is taken in the middle of the bars ?
Thank you again !
Dam
Good morning,
Seatpost offset (0, 15, or 25mm) refers to how far the seatpost head—where you attach the saddle—is set back.
In other words, it is the distance between the center of the seatpost tube and the center of the saddle clamps.
To determine which one is best for you, the ideal approach is to have a professional bike fit. This small difference (which positions you further forward or backward) will influence your knee position relative to the pedal spindle when the crank is at the 3 o'clock position. It also affects your overall reach and position relative to the handlebars.
Regarding handlebar size, while the literature suggests what you mentioned, the current trend is that many riders are now using even narrower bars...
-
Samsonight:
Easy illustration of seatpost offset viz. picture attached.
Yes, handlebar width Lightcarbon measure center-center
-
An other question is about the bars width. My shoulder are 400, so I must order a 400 or a380 as the measurement is taken in the middle of the bars ?
Generally 2cm shorter than shoulder width is fine I would go with 38cm. And remember to measure from the bones (google how) and not the whole shoulder width.
-
So not possible anylonger? If so, did she explained why not longer possible?
The chrome silver fading into glossy black (similar to the seka spear chronos) is part of LC's optional templates. To save a bit of weight and because I like the look of raw carbon, i asked if it can transition into raw carbon instead it black paint but Carol said that it might not be possible to customize that. Since i'm not ready to place my order yet, I didn't really push her to confirm.
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
I like the paint, very cool. FYI - you have your tires mounted backwards. I know because I've done the same thing a few times.
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
Are you planning to mount the handlebar directly on top of the headset? Looking for options to get most slammed position. May be there is 3d-modeling wizards here that can make a 3d-printable headset cover with less stack?
-
I like the paint, very cool. FYI - you have your tires mounted backwards. I know because I've done the same thing a few times.
Haha, how embarrassing! :-[
-
Are you planning to mount the handlebar directly on top of the headset? Looking for options to get most slammed position. May be there is 3d-modeling wizards here that can make a 3d-printable headset cover with less stack?
No I just popped the handlebars on directly to get a quick photo - will build it with at least a couple of spacers to start with (I'm not that flexible!)
-
No I just popped the handlebars on directly to get a quick photo - will build it with at least a couple of spacers to start with (I'm not that flexible!)
How much was paint job with that paint?
-
was the LCR018-D on the latest nero cycling podcast dog or fast bike someone from here?
https://youtu.be/TSDUS5xzR6A?si=NaveKMcxkvavaFZ8&t=2849
-
Good morning,
Seatpost offset (0, 15, or 25mm) refers to how far the seatpost head—where you attach the saddle—is set back.
In other words, it is the distance between the center of the seatpost tube and the center of the saddle clamps.
To determine which one is best for you, the ideal approach is to have a professional bike fit. This small difference (which positions you further forward or backward) will influence your knee position relative to the pedal spindle when the crank is at the 3 o'clock position. It also affects your overall reach and position relative to the handlebars.
Regarding handlebar size, while the literature suggests what you mentioned, the current trend is that many riders are now using even narrower bars...
Thank you and all the other persons who have answered me, that's cristal clear for me now.
And now I have an other question, does it mean that it is not possible to put the saddle backward or forward once you choose a saddle offset to have the right distance when your pedal is at 3oclock ? Is it better to choose 15mm offset to have more possibilities?
-
It depends on so many factors.
How long the saddle tails are.
What sort of saddle you’re using
How long your femur’s are
Weight distribution on the bike.
That why a bike fit is important. If you don’t want to do that, just buy both 0 and -15 and experiment
-
was the LCR018-D on the latest nero cycling podcast dog or fast bike someone from here?
https://youtu.be/TSDUS5xzR6A?si=NaveKMcxkvavaFZ8&t=2849
Ah that was me! Hadn't posted my build here yet, but was honored to receive a fast bike approval from the Nero boys, and very proud of how the build turned out! Though I think they likely accidentally thought light carbon and light bicycle were the same company, the names are pretty similar to be honest haha.
The bike specs:
size 56 in deep ocean blue
380 x 100 HBR17
SuperCaz bar tape
Shimano Ultegra 12 Speed DI2, 52/36 x 11/34
Light Bicycle Turbo 50 mm wheelset (25 mm internal, 34.5 mm external) built with Sapim CX Ray Steel Spokes and DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Continental GP5000 30 mm front, 32 mm rear, TPU tubes
Cannondale aero bottles
Magene Teo P515 power meter with 165 mm carbon cranks
Bikone bottom bracket (standard steel bearings)
Silca hot waxed chain (with an endurance chip for convenience)
Shimano ultegra pedals
Ryet 3D printed saddle
Build weight: 7.6 kg with pedals/mounts/cages
-
I'm about to order this frame with delivery to USA (Texas).. and have a quote for shipping as follows: "delivery cost is USD 151 for a pair of wheels and USD182 for a set of frame, USD 100 is the local remote delivery cost for 2 parcels"
So for the frame: shipping charge is $232.. ($182 + $50)
and for a wheelset: shipping charge is $201.. ($151 + $50)
So total shipping charge for a frame and wheelset is $433. I had initially hoped for a reduced combined shipping fee, but the box sizing requiring two seperate shipments makes sense.
So my main question is.. has others from the US been charged the additional $50 'local remote delivery' fee for a frame (or wheelset)?
(And I do not live in a remote location.. I get UPS, Fedex, and Amazon deliveries often with 1-2 day deliveries.)
The base shipping charge seems inline with what others who have posted about their quoted costs on this forum.. but I don't remember seeing an addional 'remote' shipping fee mentioned.
(and just a note.. this quote is from November '25, so not sure if this is shipping fee is still current. Was going to request updated quote before ordering.
It's not going to be a deal breaker, but just curious if this is a common charge when ordering from china.
Thanks in advance.
-
My shipping to MA was $153
-
Ah that was me! Hadn't posted my build here yet, but was honored to receive a fast bike approval from the Nero boys, and very proud of how the build turned out! Though I think they likely accidentally thought light carbon and light bicycle were the same company, the names are pretty similar to be honest haha.
The bike specs:
size 56 in deep ocean blue
380 x 100 HBR17
SuperCaz bar tape
Shimano Ultegra 12 Speed DI2, 52/36 x 11/34
Light Bicycle Turbo 50 mm wheelset (25 mm internal, 34.5 mm external) built with Sapim CX Ray Steel Spokes and DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Continental GP5000 30 mm front, 32 mm rear, TPU tubes
Cannondale aero bottles
Magene Teo P515 power meter with 165 mm carbon cranks
Bikone bottom bracket (standard steel bearings)
Silca hot waxed chain (with an endurance chip for convenience)
Shimano ultegra pedals
Ryet 3D printed saddle
I'm jealous. Chris and Jesse have ignored two of my bikes.
-
Set of 380-80 HBR017 handlebars now listed in the for sale section if anyone needs a set for their LCR018-D.
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
That looks very nice indeed! When did you order? Can't wait to see when mine is painted (also size 56)
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
Can I ask please, which chameleon color is that? :O Looks awesome!
-
Interview & Factory Tour video is on now! (Full English)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsAlqKrbaks
Next up.... XMCS, but will take maybe 2 weeks for editing or so :)
-
Thanks for the video - great to see the workings at Light Carbon!
Even better was the news of an updated, lighter storage panel. Always thought the original was too heavy.
Would be a nice little upgrade if I could piggyback on anyones UK order in the next few months to save on crazy shipping costs.
-
The chrome silver fading into glossy black (similar to the seka spear chronos) is part of LC's optional templates. To save a bit of weight and because I like the look of raw carbon, i asked if it can transition into raw carbon instead it black paint but Carol said that it might not be possible to customize that. Since i'm not ready to place my order yet, I didn't really push her to confirm.
weight size 56 with chrome / glossy black color and with storage cover
-
Ah that was me! Hadn't posted my build here yet, but was honored to receive a fast bike approval from the Nero boys, and very proud of how the build turned out! Though I think they likely accidentally thought light carbon and light bicycle were the same company, the names are pretty similar to be honest haha.
The bike specs:
size 56 in deep ocean blue
380 x 100 HBR17
SuperCaz bar tape
Shimano Ultegra 12 Speed DI2, 52/36 x 11/34
Light Bicycle Turbo 50 mm wheelset (25 mm internal, 34.5 mm external) built with Sapim CX Ray Steel Spokes and DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Continental GP5000 30 mm front, 32 mm rear, TPU tubes
Cannondale aero bottles
Magene Teo P515 power meter with 165 mm carbon cranks
Bikone bottom bracket (standard steel bearings)
Silca hot waxed chain (with an endurance chip for convenience)
Shimano ultegra pedals
Ryet 3D printed saddle
What is the total build weight, if you have it? Either with pedals/mount/cages or without.
-
Interview & Factory Tour video is on now! (Full English)
That seemed like a real No-BS interview, thanks to everyone involved
-
Thanks for the video - great to see the workings at Light Carbon!
Even better was the news of an updated, lighter storage panel. Always thought the original was too heavy.
Would be a nice little upgrade if I could piggyback on anyones UK order in the next few months to save on crazy shipping costs.
My order hasn’t shipped yet, so I’ll see if they can supply the new version. If they can, I’ll order an extra one for you.
-
My order hasn’t shipped yet, so I’ll see if they can supply the new version. If they can, I’ll order an extra one for you.
The storage compartment lid is made of aluminum and weighs approximately 55g. What's different about the new version?
-
My order hasn’t shipped yet, so I’ll see if they can supply the new version. If they can, I’ll order an extra one for you.
Thank you SO much!
The internet can be a crazy, horrible place, but this forum is amazing - great people sharing and helping.
-
Interview & Factory Tour video is on now! (Full English)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsAlqKrbaks
Next up.... XMCS, but will take maybe 2 weeks for editing or so :)
Excellent! Thanks for this.
-
Thank you SO much!
The internet can be a crazy, horrible place, but this forum is amazing - great people sharing and helping.
No problem. I’ve emailed asking for an update on the frame and why I was charged 28usd for a flap, when others were charged 10usd.
When I get a response I’ll ask about the flap-v2 and see if/when they’re available.
-
Great video zealot128. Thanks for creating this.
My frame was received end of December and I'm glad to see that I have the new style storage cover supplied with it.
-
I have a question about this 0.7mm spacer. This was originally discussed on page 85 of this thread. (I 'borrowed your picture Picograms - I hope that's okay). I tried a mock build with it and the gap looks too big. I built up a mock build without the spacer and it looks just right - no rubbing. Is there any compelling reason to use the spacer?
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzMyXS8B/spacer.jpg)
-
I have a question about this 0.7mm spacer. This was originally discussed on page 85 of this thread. (I 'borrowed your picture Picograms - I hope that's okay). I tried a mock build with it and the gap looks too big. I built up a mock build without the spacer and it looks just right - no rubbing. Is there any compelling reason to use the spacer?
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzMyXS8B/spacer.jpg)
If you tighten the ahead cap to the torque specified in the instructions, the spacers will rub against the frame. I also tried leaving out the 0.7mm washer as a test, and it looked fine, but after tightening it to the torque specification, the gap disappeared, and it rubbed against the top tube at the rear.
-
Thanks for your reply Bike.Man. That makes perfect sense.
-
Interview & Factory Tour video is on now! (Full English)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsAlqKrbaks
Next up.... XMCS, but will take maybe 2 weeks for editing or so :)
Nice! great job! I should have not seen this new gravel aero racing frame.
-
If you tighten the ahead cap to the torque specified in the instructions, the spacers will rub against the frame. I also tried leaving out the 0.7mm washer as a test, and it looked fine, but after tightening it to the torque specification, the gap disappeared, and it rubbed against the top tube at the rear.
I'm confused by this comment. Do you mean you torque a headseat cap to specification? You should just tighten it until there's no play anymore and it still rotates smoothly. I wouldn't go by a fixed torqeu spec for that.
If you mean something else than the headset cap, then ignore my comment. (I'm still curious to hear which cap you then talk about)
-
Nice! great job! I should have not seen this new gravel aero racing frame.
Haha same. That could very well be the bike that I would prefer over the lcr018
-
I'm confused by this comment. Do you mean you torque a headseat cap to specification? You should just tighten it until there's no play anymore and it still rotates smoothly. I wouldn't go by a fixed torqeu spec for that.
If you mean something else than the headset cap, then ignore my comment. (I'm still curious to hear which cap you then talk about)
From my side, I did not use or and I torque by hand like you say. No need to "overtorque". I don't have any rug.
-
Same here,
No washer, no problem and no overtorqueing the headset
-
No washer and no rub issues I noticed. That being said, I have swapped out the stock headset bearings for enduro, not sure if there are slight differences giving me the space.
-
No washer and no rub issues I noticed. That being said, I have swapped out the stock headset bearings for enduro, not sure if there are slight differences giving me the space.
I also installed enduro bearings and adhered to LightCarbon's 6Nm torque specification, because I assumed there must be a reason why LightCarbon recommends 6Nm 🤷🏻♂️
-
I'm confused by this comment. Do you mean you torque a headseat cap to specification? You should just tighten it until there's no play anymore and it still rotates smoothly. I wouldn't go by a fixed torqeu spec for that.
If you mean something else than the headset cap, then ignore my comment. (I'm still curious to hear which cap you then talk about)
I also enjoy freestyle building, but I also think that if a manufacturer specifies a torque value, there's a reason for it and it wasn't just done out of boredom 🤷🏻♂️
-
Same here,
No washer, no problem and no overtorqueing the headset
Without the 0.7mm washer, the spacer rubbed against the arrow at that point 😬
-
What is the total build weight, if you have it? Either with pedals/mount/cages or without.
Came out to around 7.6 kg with pedals and cages/mount
-
I also installed enduro bearings and adhered to LightCarbon's 6Nm torque specification, because I assumed there must be a reason why LightCarbon recommends 6Nm 🤷🏻♂️
I've torqued everything as required. However only built the bike up and spun the bars to check for rub. Could be different once riding with weight pushing down on the bars.
-
I also enjoy freestyle building, but I also think that if a manufacturer specifies a torque value, there's a reason for it and it wasn't just done out of boredom 🤷🏻♂️
The headset bolt basically pulls the fork and lower bearing towards the bottom of the headtube while also pressing the top bearing in the headtube. That's it. And as long as there's no play and it runs smoothly you're good.
I don't know why Lightcarbon specified it with 6Nm. Maybe because with a fixed amout it was easier to put in their manual 🤷♂️
-
I measured the LC headset headset bearings and the Enduro bearings. Both are exactly 7.0mm, so the choice of bearing should make no impact on whether to use the 0.7mm spacer or not.
I think I will try building without the spacer. Torque correctly, and check for rub before connecting the brake hoses. If theres rub I can add the spacer.
Maybe the spacer is needed more on frames with a thicker paint finish?
-
I also installed enduro bearings and adhered to LightCarbon's 6Nm torque specification, because I assumed there must be a reason why LightCarbon recommends 6Nm 🤷🏻♂️
I never saw a company giving a torque for the bearing play on the headset. 6Nm is rock solid, much more than you would need to eliminate play.
Don't know why they did it .. with to much pressing force the steering gets stiff and also the bearings don't like it and fail earlier.
Depending on the stack and how smoothly it is compressed the needed torque can vary a lot. Sometimes 2Nm are fine, sometimes 3.. that's why it doesn't make sense to define a certain Nm value. If there's no play, and the steerer can still move freely, when you tilt the bike, it's fine.
-
Did someone here already build this frame with mechanical group-set? Preferably shimano 105 12speed? Thanks
-
anyone have a problem with the storage cover making noise? it seems to do it when im going uphill for some reason, i might be wrong and it might be something else taking it off seemed to make it go away
-
anyone have a problem with the storage cover making noise? it seems to do it when im going uphill for some reason, i might be wrong and it might be something else taking it off seemed to make it go away
Mine was rattling, had to put a small line of thin double sided foam tape across the top edge of the opening and it solved the problem.
-
Did someone here already build this frame with mechanical group-set? Preferably shimano 105 12speed? Thanks
Yeah, I did finish my frame about 2 weeks ago with mechanical dura ace. Did not ride it properly but had a few short test rides and mechanical works.
What I needed to do is use a metal shift ferrule at the front derailleur to create a cable stop to make it work though. I could not find a cable stop in the accessories bag.
Gonna post an image of the bike soon!
-
Hello, is this frame good to use as aero road bike? I’m now riding a 2022 factor ostro vam in 56. I i compare the frames on bikeinsight, i could have the same geometry in this frame with a 54 and stem 110. I don’t get why everyone is calling this an full endurence bike, it looks pretty aero and fast to me? Or am i missing something?
-
cedriccarron: Well, everyone is calling it endurance, all-road bike, because LightCarbon calls it that :).
Yeah I think it is pretty good aero bike. I had a plan just to buy this frame for my curiosity try it and sell it later, because I already have my aeroad (witch iam very happy with), but after about 130 frosty kilometers on light carbon so far I think I can sell my aeroad and have light carbon as my primary road aero bike with no regrets. I honestly can not tell the difference between aeroad in speed and stiffnes and I really like it so far, plus those fat tyres are just amazing for my riding, but more riding is needed to make some conclusion, winter is agains it :).
I measured head tube lenght and aeroad headtube measure exactly the same as light carbon and front profile of lightcarbon is not that much larger than aeroads, lightcarbon looks pretty slender.
-
Mine was rattling, had to put a small line of thin double sided foam tape across the top edge of the opening and it solved the problem.
There is a 2 mm hex bolt on the back of the cover. Tighten it lightly if the cover is not snug enough.
-
cedriccarron: Well, everyone is calling it endurance, all-road bike, because LightCarbon calls it that :).
Yeah I think it is pretty good aero bike. I had a plan just to buy this frame for my curiosity try it and sell it later, because I already have my aeroad (witch iam very happy with), but after about 130 frosty kilometers on light carbon so far I think I can sell my aeroad and have light carbon as my primary road aero bike with no regrets. I honestly can not tell the difference between aeroad in speed and stiffnes and I really like it so far, plus those fat tyres are just amazing for my riding, but more riding is needed to make some conclusion, winter is agains it :).
I measured head tube lenght and aeroad headtube measure exactly the same as light carbon and front profile of lightcarbon is not that much larger than aeroads, lightcarbon looks pretty slender.
And how about the weight of the LightCarbon vs. the Aeroad?
-
cedriccarron: Well, everyone is calling it endurance, all-road bike, because LightCarbon calls it that :).
Yeah I think it is pretty good aero bike. I had a plan just to buy this frame for my curiosity try it and sell it later, because I already have my aeroad (witch iam very happy with), but after about 130 frosty kilometers on light carbon so far I think I can sell my aeroad and have light carbon as my primary road aero bike with no regrets. I honestly can not tell the difference between aeroad in speed and stiffnes and I really like it so far, plus those fat tyres are just amazing for my riding, but more riding is needed to make some conclusion, winter is agains it :).
I measured head tube lenght and aeroad headtube measure exactly the same as light carbon and front profile of lightcarbon is not that much larger than aeroads, lightcarbon looks pretty slender.
I also had the Aeroad at the same time as the LightCarbon frame and I think the LightCarbon frame has significantly stronger profiles and doesn't look nearly as delicate as the Aeroad 😬
-
There is a 2 mm hex bolt on the back of the cover. Tighten it lightly if the cover is not snug enough.
Yeah I done that and in my case it didn't help.
A simple fix anyway and absolutely silent ever since.
-
I would like to ask about using insulation around the brake hose inside the frame (eg Jagwire type). I guess it imposes on the space available inside the storage area in the frame? I am thinking of leaving it out in this area because the storage bag will stop the hose from moving anyway. What have others done?
-
I would like to ask about using insulation around the brake hose inside the frame (eg Jagwire type). I guess it imposes on the space available inside the storage area in the frame? I am thinking of leaving it out in this area because the storage bag will stop the hose from moving anyway. What have others done?
I put foam in the whole downtube, but I will probably leave the insulation only in the upper part. The gained space will be minimal though.
-
Hello, is this frame good to use as aero road bike? I’m now riding a 2022 factor ostro vam in 56. I i compare the frames on bikeinsight, i could have the same geometry in this frame with a 54 and stem 110. I don’t get why everyone is calling this an full endurence bike, it looks pretty aero and fast to me? Or am i missing something?
So like for like, the LCR018-D is not the same.
Put your Ostro against a 56cm LCR018-D and it'll be taller and more endurance based - exactly as designed.
You can get away with going to a 54 with it, exactly because of the more relaxed geometry.
The bike is fun to ride and quite fast, but any comparisons to an Aeroad are crazy in my humble opinion.
I have had 2 Aeroads in the past, and still have an old rim brake Aeroad copy from way back in 2017, and it is simply a faster bike than the LCR018-D.
But then if I put the bikes side by side, the Aeroad bars are at least 4cm lower than the LCR018-D.....as they should be for an endurance geometry.
I have another fork on the way which I will install with minimal spacers which will bring it down 2cm or so, and no doubt will make it more racy for the summer months, but its still an endurance bike.
This is not to bash the LCR018-D - I absolutely love it, have over 1200km ridden on it so far and think its a superb bike, but to compare it to an out and out aero race bike is misleading.
I would be very interested in a proper aero race bike if Light Carbon bring one out this year.
-
bsharp77: Yeah, Iam not saying that LightCarbon is quicker than aeroad, aeroad is objectively one of the fastest bike out there, but what Iam trying to say is that you are not loosing to much.
Also maybe my height and weight is to blame here (196cm and 83kg), because even if I objectively compare my average speeds with a same power between aeroad and my previous bike witch was alu cyclocros bike with road wheels, that genuinely looked like a brick, I do not see much diference, yes aeroad is quicker but not that much as you would think maybe like 0.5km/h on 35km/h average 100km loop.
I genuinely see much bigger diference just when I take a different jersey or helmet than with different bikes, but maybe with someone smaller bike itself makes a much bigger difference.
-
bsharp77: Yeah, Iam not saying that LightCarbon is quicker than aeroad, aeroad is objectively one of the fastest bike out there, but what Iam trying to say is that you are not loosing to much.
Also maybe my height and weight is to blame here (196cm and 83kg), because even if I objectively compare my average speeds with a same power between aeroad and my previous bike witch was alu cyclocros bike with road wheels, that genuinely looked like a brick, I do not see much diference, yes aeroad is quicker but not that much as you would think maybe like 0.5km/h on 35km/h average 100km loop.
I genuinely see much bigger diference just when I take a different jersey or helmet than with different bikes, but maybe with someone smaller bike itself makes a much bigger difference.
I totally agree that we're not talking massive differences in figures here - especially at non-pro speeds, but a difference is there nonetheless.
-
Something to consider for longer distances: the comfort.
The bike is maybe slower at the same power output but maybe a non professional rider can sustain a certain power output for longer time/distance on the LCR-018 because of its higher comfort (tire size, geo etc.) the question is: where is this super individual point 🤣
In the end, it doesn’t matter as long you are not racing the bike :)
-
Hello everyone, finally finished my build and the total weight came up to 7.5kgs! Quite impressed with the paint job and the glossy finish is a treat to the eyes! If I had to nitpick, the paint around the bottom tube storage door wasn't consistent and there was some paint on the rear brake mount.
The build was pretty smooth too for my first build! The only thing I struggled with in the build was some disc rub (VXM rotors) with Zrace XG4 calipers on the rear wheel. Did anyone else face disc rubs in their build?
I haven't had a chance to ride it properly yet due to the weather, but hopefully soon!
-
My Build: Velar RF2.18
Frame: LCR018-D (Size 56)
Groupset: SRAM Force E1 2x12 (Integrated Spider PM)
Wheelset: Elitewheels Aero+ (42mm Front / 53mm Rear) with ceramic bearings
Weight: 7.75kg (dry)
Coming from an old aluminium 2013 Cube Peloton Pro, the jump to this build has been a total shock to me, I could not believe the feeling when I first left home. I spent years on that aluminum frame with its external cables and rim brakes, and while it served me well, the "Velar" feels like it’s from a different planet. It’s essentially a rocket ship compared to the old bike, I should have upgraded much sooner.
On my first 50k ride last weekend, the biggest thing I noticed was how every pedal stroke feels "live"—where the Cube felt a bit sluggish or flexy when I put the power down, this LCR018 frame just snaps forward. Leaving home the first time on this, I’ve truly felt the "free speed" compared to the old frame, the difference really is night and day.
My color choice was bold (and I have to admit, nerve wrecking), but I'm absolutely loving it now I've got it here, can't help but smile everytime I walk past it in the garage. The Yellow/Black is a very strong combo in my opinion.
-
I love it, great and black should be left for cars, on road bike I want the 60s, full on colors!
-
Hello everyone. Any thoughts about the LightCarbon 3D printed saddle (SD02) and bottle cages (BC11).
Thanks
-
Hello everyone. Any thoughts about the LightCarbon 3D printed saddle (SD02) and bottle cages (BC11).
Thanks
I have the SD01 which is the slightly more 'cushioned' version of the SD02 saddle. I am currently using it on my indoor trainer. Its very light and made very well. I can't complain about the quality. The 3D printing is softer in some areas than others (how it's supposed to be - I believe). However I don't think it's as comfortible as my Salle Italia Boost SLR. I think this is because the nose on the SD01 is slightly wider than the nose on the SLR and it rubs my thighs. But, that's just me - I probably have fat thighs ;D Otherwise its a good saddle and great for the price.
-
Hello, is this frame good to use as aero road bike? I’m now riding a 2022 factor ostro vam in 56. I i compare the frames on bikeinsight, i could have the same geometry in this frame with a 54 and stem 110. I don’t get why everyone is calling this an full endurence bike, it looks pretty aero and fast to me? Or am i missing something?
To be fair: Your Ostro VAM is likely faster in a pure drag race. It has narrower tubing and a slimmer fork profile designed purely for speed, whereas this frame carries more bulk to accommodate 38mm tires.
However, calling it a "full endurance" bike is misleading. It’s better to think of it as an Aero-Allroad bike. A much better comparison than the Ostro would be a Cervélo Soloist with ~20mm of spacers (which is how most mortals ride it).
I ran some comparative numbers to see how this frame (slammed) stacks up against a Soloist (with spacers to match the stack). The consensus is that the aerodynamic difference is negligible because the "Endurance" features actually solve aerodynamic problems:
- Headtube Efficiency: The LCR wins here. Running zero spacers vs. a round spacer stack on the Soloist saves ~1.5W in turbulence.
- System Integration: The LCR's mono-cockpit vs. a standard clamped stem on the Soloist saves another ~2.0W.
- Seat Tube Cutout: The LCR has a rear wheel cutout which the Soloist lacks, saving ~3.0W by shielding the tire.
- Frontal Area (Fork): The Soloist wins here. Its narrow stance is theoretically ~3.5W faster than the wide LCR fork due to pure frontal area.
The Verdict: We are splitting hairs. Sometimes the model showed the Cervélo 0.5W ahead, sometimes the LCR came out on top due to the clean cockpit. If you can fit a 54 with a 110mm stem, you are getting a geometry that matches your Ostro VAM's reach, just with a slightly higher "virtual" stack that saves you from running spacers. It might lag slightly behind a slammed Ostro, but it will be significantly faster than a traditional endurance frame.
-
To be fair: Your Ostro VAM is likely faster in a pure drag race. It has narrower tubing and a slimmer fork profile designed purely for speed, whereas this frame carries more bulk to accommodate 38mm tires.
However, calling it a "full endurance" bike is misleading. It’s better to think of it as an Aero-Allroad bike. A much better comparison than the Ostro would be a Cervélo Soloist with ~20mm of spacers (which is how most mortals ride it).
I ran some comparative numbers to see how this frame (slammed) stacks up against a Soloist (with spacers to match the stack). The consensus is that the aerodynamic difference is negligible because the "Endurance" features actually solve aerodynamic problems:
- Headtube Efficiency: The LCR wins here. Running zero spacers vs. a round spacer stack on the Soloist saves ~1.5W in turbulence.
- System Integration: The LCR's mono-cockpit vs. a standard clamped stem on the Soloist saves another ~2.0W.
- Seat Tube Cutout: The LCR has a rear wheel cutout which the Soloist lacks, saving ~3.0W by shielding the tire.
- Frontal Area (Fork): The Soloist wins here. Its narrow stance is theoretically ~3.5W faster than the wide LCR fork due to pure frontal area.
The Verdict: We are splitting hairs. Sometimes the model showed the Cervélo 0.5W ahead, sometimes the LCR came out on top due to the clean cockpit. If you can fit a 54 with a 110mm stem, you are getting a geometry that matches your Ostro VAM's reach, just with a slightly higher "virtual" stack that saves you from running spacers. It might lag slightly behind a slammed Ostro, but it will be significantly faster than a traditional endurance frame.
Interesting comment! I guess you're using some kind of simulator to get to these numbers? Which model are you referring to?
-
Just remember that the big lump of meat on top of the bike makes the biggest difference.
I’d rather have an “endurance” bike set up for aero hoods, than a slammed S5 that quickly fatigues.
-
Came across Light Carbon's factory walk through video. Gives us another sneak peak of their upcoming Aero Gravel Race Bike and some custom painted LCR018-Ds.
https://youtu.be/pg80CGPZw0c?si=u0d_HLSag68jSA58 (https://youtu.be/pg80CGPZw0c?si=u0d_HLSag68jSA58)
-
Those are a couple of really nice builds to wake up to.
-
Can I ask please, which chameleon color is that? :O Looks awesome!
How much was paint job with that paint?
Paint was LCB-8HS, single colour, full gloss no decals. I paid $140. Have just finished the build and taken it for a couple of shakedown rides - photos to follow!
That looks very nice indeed! When did you order? Can't wait to see when mine is painted (also size 56)
Ordered on 11th November, size 54, arrived in UK 2nd Jan. I paid a total of $1045 inc paint, handlebars, shipping, plus spare seatpost, storage bag, and storage compartment cover.
-
Having such a hard time deciding on colour.
First I wanted the chameleon 7207 but after seeing photos, it looks just white, hard to see the chameleon effect. Next i considered chameleon 07HS. I see different example photos in different lighting and love the burgundy look, but other photos it looks very dark and just black.
After seeing Hoogie's yellow Velar that inspired me to consider a yellow mango colour.
Or maybe a british racing green would look great ;D
It's a difficult decision... if anyone has more examples of colours i listed feel free to share! would be greatly appreciated
-
Having such a hard time deciding on colour.
First I wanted the chameleon 7207 but after seeing photos, it looks just white, hard to see the chameleon effect. Next i considered chameleon 07HS. I see different example photos in different lighting and love the burgundy look, but other photos it looks very dark and just black.
After seeing Hoogie's yellow Velar that inspired me to consider a yellow mango colour.
Or maybe a british racing green would look great ;D
It's a difficult decision... if anyone has more examples of colours i listed feel free to share! would be greatly appreciated
I ordered my frame in Chameleon 7207, I should receive pictures of it in the upcoming two weeks. I will share them as soon I get them. I hope that might help a little
-
Having such a hard time deciding on colour.
First I wanted the chameleon 7207 but after seeing photos, it looks just white, hard to see the chameleon effect. Next i considered chameleon 07HS. I see different example photos in different lighting and love the burgundy look, but other photos it looks very dark and just black.
After seeing Hoogie's yellow Velar that inspired me to consider a yellow mango colour.
Or maybe a british racing green would look great ;D
It's a difficult decision... if anyone has more examples of colours i listed feel free to share! would be greatly appreciated
For completeness, mine was Pantone 109C.
I'll attach the color samples I got from Jim here. Because I was torn between Yellow C, 109 C and 123 C.
With the `Yellow C` I was afraid it would wash out in the sun, leaving almost no yellow when in bright sunlight. I found the `123 C` a bit too orange/gold in my opinion. So ultimately went for the 109 C.
-
It's a difficult decision... if anyone has more examples of colours i listed feel free to share! would be greatly appreciated
.
The British Racing Green color from the lightcarbon palette is a pearl color. Below is a photo of the frame in this color.
As for samples of other colors, I recommend using Chat GPT or Gemini. Attach a photo and add a query such as "change the color of the frame and fork to (color here). Include a verbal description of the color, with the Pantone and hex ID)". Below are a few examples of generated photos (reference photos borrowed from this thread).
-
Came across Light Carbon's factory walk through video. Gives us another sneak peak of their upcoming Aero Gravel Race Bike and some custom painted LCR018-Ds.
https://youtu.be/pg80CGPZw0c?si=u0d_HLSag68jSA58 (https://youtu.be/pg80CGPZw0c?si=u0d_HLSag68jSA58)
Thank you.
You can clearly see the new model multiple times in the video. Now i want that one, but waiting propably almost a year until he is out its a pain.
-
.
The British Racing Green color from the lightcarbon palette is a pearl color. Below is a photo of the frame in this color.
The picture doesn't show it off well at all. I bought my LCR017 in British Racing Green and it's a fairly dark metallic. The colour swatch on their website is a better representation.
-
Yesterday I received photos of my frame:
Size 58, color: raw carbon glossy
ordered 22.12.2025, photos received: 20.01.20206
ordered with handlebars HBR17 420x110
If someone ordered also 420x110 they are not in stock and you need to wait couple of weeks. I replaced them with 420x120 which are on stock (420x100 too)
-
Yesterday I received photos of my frame:
Size 58, color: raw carbon glossy
ordered 22.12.2025, photos received: 20.01.20206
ordered with handlebars HBR17 420x110
If someone ordered also 420x110 they are not in stock and you need to wait couple of weeks. I replaced them with 420x120 which are on stock (420x100 too)
Can you tell me your height?
-
Planning to go with 1x12 setup, do i need to pick a zero or 3mm offset chainring? If using a DUB crankset? Planning to get a 44T chainring. Thanks
-
Planning to go with 1x12 setup, do i need to pick a zero or 3mm offset chainring? If using a DUB crankset? Planning to get a 44T chainring. Thanks
Usually SRAM chainrings are 6.5mm or over. If you use a 0 or 3mm the chainring will fit too outboard and you’ll potentially have a shitty chain line at the larger cassette ratios.
If you’re only using a 44 you’ll have no problems with clearance, so find something deeper.
-
Usually SRAM chainrings are 6.5mm or over. If you use a 0 or 3mm the chainring will fit too outboard and you’ll potentially have a shitty chain line at the larger cassette ratios.
If you’re only using a 44 you’ll have no problems with clearance, so find something deeper.
I will be using a shimano grx components 10-51 cassette, ordered a DUB carbon crank in aliexpress which has 150 Q Factor with Easton Interface.
-
Can you tell me your height?
193cm, 92inseam, i have quite a long hands so will see how it fit.
first setup was with 15mm offset seatpost and 420x110 but it should arrive with 0mm offset and 120mm stem
I will update it later
-
I will be using a shimano grx components 10-51 cassette, ordered a DUB carbon crank in aliexpress which has 150 Q Factor with Easton Interface.
If the Q factor is 150, that’s wider than SRAM road and the same as SRAM wide.
You don’t need Wide on this frame so you really need a deep chainring to get a decent chainline.
Alugear, SRAM AND Garbaruk are 6.5MM I’d be looking at that as a minimum for whatever fits your crank
-
I have a question about this 0.7mm spacer. This was originally discussed on page 85 of this thread. (I 'borrowed your picture Picograms - I hope that's okay). I tried a mock build with it and the gap looks too big. I built up a mock build without the spacer and it looks just right - no rubbing. Is there any compelling reason to use the spacer?
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzMyXS8B/spacer.jpg)
Just incase anyone needs to know. I built mine up without the spacer and found there was a very slight rub. Not too much, but I can imagine it would mark the paint eventually. I have now fitted the spacer.
-
.
The British Racing Green color from the lightcarbon palette is a pearl color. Below is a photo of the frame in this color.
As for samples of other colors, I recommend using Chat GPT or Gemini. Attach a photo and add a query such as "change the color of the frame and fork to (color here). Include a verbal description of the color, with the Pantone and hex ID)". Below are a few examples of generated photos (reference photos borrowed from this thread).
The green frame in the photo is mine, it's true that it depends on the light conditions - it can be dark green or if the sun shines it's pretty sparkly and bright. I love the color. Don't have any pictures as I didn't finish the build yet.
-
Just incase anyone needs to know. I built mine up without the spacer and found there was a very slight rub. Not too much, but I can imagine it would mark the paint eventually. I have now fitted the spacer.
It’s almost like they included it for a reason 😂
-
Mine came today 👍🏻
47cm. 967g with front hanger and bottlecage bolts.
-
just got photos from factory, should see shipping notification this week i was told.
ordered 24 Nov 2025
54cm frame, matte finish with outlined white decals
-
just got photos from factory, should see shipping notification this week i was told.
ordered 24 Nov 2025
54cm frame, matte finish with outlined white decals
I think i can expect mine mid february 🤣, because paid invoice dec 15.
-
Just heard back from Carol regarding the computer mount as I enquired about the titanium one and if there will be a shorter one.
The titanium one is a bit shorter, which is better for my small Garmin.
She said it will cost $35 - I'd love to order one.
Its in development and have just emailed back to see when it would be ready to order.
Photo from Carol:
(https://i.ibb.co/35QbwKbj/mount.png)
That’s weird. My titanium mount was exactly the same length as the plastic one. Not shorter nor lighter. Guess I need to try that 3d-print a few pages back.
-
Just bough the frame, excited for it! Is anyone using the Magene P505 on this? (So the older version). Formally it is not compatible with internal T47 BBs but people have reported that it fits depending on the frame. Looking at the photos, I would think it should fit.
Thanks!
-
hoolabalooza: I tried Magene P505 on my LightCarbon and it unfortunately does not fit, with my bikone bb it rub against the frame.
-
just got photos from factory, should see shipping notification this week i was told.
ordered 24 Nov 2025
54cm frame, matte finish with outlined white decals
Hopefully that means mine will be painted soon. I ordered a 54cm on November 26
-
Yesterday I was told that my 56 that was paid on Dec 15th will not be ready before Chinese new year. No frames will come out of production from 10 till end of Feb. Then it needs to be painted.
Will probably be end of March before I have it :(
-
hoolabalooza: I tried Magene P505 on my LightCarbon and it unfortunately does not fit, with my bikone bb it rub against the frame.
Would using spacers work?
-
hoolabalooza: I tried Magene P505 on my LightCarbon and it unfortunately does not fit, with my bikone bb it rub against the frame.
Yeah I think their newer P515 was released in part to fix these issues with the spindle and spider not always fitting with T47 bottom brackets
-
I'm still waiting for mine :( Ordered Dec 1 but customized to have top tube bolts. Hopefully within a week or so.
-
tintilor: I dont know, I did not think of that, so I did not try that. Even if some spacer would work it would be pretty close.
lb7894546: You are right, P515 is comparable with T47 frames.
-
Hello everybody, a simple question. Is the BB offered for LightCarbon good or are better alternatives. I don't like something exotic like ceramic bearings, only a BB that works without problems. Thanks!
-
The BB supplied by LC is a Gineyea branded item. Yes - better ones are available. I spent about £35 for one - just a good brand without going mad.
-
Hello everybody, a simple question. Is the BB offered for LightCarbon good or are better alternatives. I don't like something exotic like ceramic bearings, only a BB that works without problems. Thanks!
I haven't used yet but I upgraded to the CEMA ceramic BB through LC. They offer a discount when buying with a frame, the reviews seemed good and it cost less for me than getting a standard name brand BB locally. The BB itself looks great and bearings felt smooth. I know that doesn't mean anything without riding but reviews out there deem the CEMA BBs to be good.
-
The BB supplied by LC is a Gineyea branded item. Yes - better ones are available. I spent about £35 for one - just a good brand without going mad.
Hello,
I'm trying to get a BB on AliExpress but I don't even find the good measurements for the BB. Could you send a link to the one you bought please ? It would be a great help !
Thanks !
-
Hello,
I'm trying to get a BB on AliExpress but I don't even find the good measurements for the BB. Could you send a link to the one you bought please ? It would be a great help !
Thanks !
Here you go...
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/token-bb47v29-t47-inboard-bottom-bracket
-
Caliper mounting screws are supposed to be supplied with the frame, right? Can’t seem to find them anywhere
-
Caliper mounting screws are supposed to be supplied with the frame, right? Can’t seem to find them anywhere
No, they come with the brakes/ shifters
-
The long ones too?
-
Yes
-
Caliper mounting screws are supposed to be supplied with the frame, right? Can’t seem to find them anywhere
All the hardware to mount brakes come with my groupset. Shimano Ultegra Di2.
-
Caliper mounting screws are supposed to be supplied with the frame, right? Can’t seem to find them anywhere
i've never seen a frame come with groupset specific bolts - that is determined by the groupset manufacturer not the frame builder. that's over 30's years of building custom bikes... they are easily ordered spares from any bike shop or online
-
Here you go...
https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/token-bb47v29-t47-inboard-bottom-bracket
Thank you !
-
Will a 40c can fit on this frame using a 24internal width carbon rim? Thanks
-
Is the 35mm requirement the same for SRAM bolts? I only have the 32s around so would appreciate a heads up if anyone knows :)
-
Will a 40c can fit on this frame using a 24internal width carbon rim? Thanks
Yes, a 40mm rim also fits in the frame (ZIPP XPLR), and I've now installed a 36mm rim (28mm internal width). On it is a Schwalbe R Pro tire, which is exactly 39.5mm wide on the rim. However, that's also the maximum width I would recommend for the frame (at the rear). 45mm also fits at the front.
-
Is the 35mm requirement the same for SRAM bolts? I only have the 32s around so would appreciate a heads up if anyone knows :)
No, you need 35mm for SRAM brakes too. 32mm is too short! I used these: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdRM9Q
-
The caliper bolts that come with Shimano, have a safety clip on the rear, and a plastic locking ring on the front to prevent losening. When fitting titanium bolt replacements you can't use these. Can anyone see a promblem with leaving these out? I assume Locktite would be prevention enough?
-
The caliper bolts that come with Shimano, have a safety clip on the rear, and a plastic locking ring on the front to prevent losening. When fitting titanium bolt replacements you can't use these. Can anyone see a promblem with leaving these out? I assume Locktite would be prevention enough?
In my opinion, threadlocker is perfectly sufficient. At least, I replaced all the screws on my Shimano brakes with titanium ones and easily did without those locking gadgets and special Shimano screws. No one else uses such a system, and I've never heard of anyone losing a SRAM brake caliper simply because SRAM doesn't use screws with locking pins 🤷🏻♂️
-
No, you need 35mm for SRAM brakes too. 32mm is too short! I used these: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdRM9Q
Thank you! Did you get the M6 or the M6 version? From looking around, it seems like the M6 are the correct ones?
-
Thank you! Did you get the M6 or the M6 version? From looking around, it seems like the M6 are the correct ones?
I installed a SRAM Rival XPLR 2025 brake system and needed M5 screws.
However, there are also brake calipers with M6 screws; please check this on your bike yourself.
-
Can anyone explain where the eagle eye design feature is? I'm not planning on winning (or entering) any UCI races but am curious what's the issue.
RE: UCI rejection, LC said ... They said that the bottom edge height of the eagle-eye design on our LCR018-D is 5mm, and according to the latest UCI rules, it must be changed to at least 10mm
-
Used the sunshine today to take the bike out for a quick test ride and bed the brakes in.
I haven’t properly ridden it yet due to the weather and recovering from an accident, but my first impressions are very positive!
It accelerates well, doesn’t feel spongy and is super comfortable. So far, I’m very satisfied with the overall quality and ride feel. A long-term review will follow later on.
7.7 kg in size 56 with GPS mount, one bottle cage, and power meter pedals.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z/rdbk.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z)
-
Used the sunshine today to take the bike out for a quick test ride and bed the brakes in.
I haven’t properly ridden it yet due to the weather and recovering from an accident, but my first impressions are very positive!
It accelerates well, doesn’t feel spongy and is super comfortable. So far, I’m very satisfied with the overall quality and ride feel. A long-term review will follow later on.
7.7 kg in size 56 with GPS mount, one bottle cage, and power meter pedals.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z/rdbk.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z)
Will run also mechanical on my ordered frame with 1x12 setup 44T 10-51 Shimano GrX.
Seems the shifter cable housing will run straight from sti to rd for mechanical. Preventing the use of Shimano OT-RS900 Rear Derailleur Cable Housing.
-
Yes, a 40mm rim also fits in the frame (ZIPP XPLR), and I've now installed a 36mm rim (28mm internal width). On it is a Schwalbe R Pro tire, which is exactly 39.5mm wide on the rim. However, that's also the maximum width I would recommend for the frame (at the rear). 45mm also fits at the front.
What size is that Schwalbe?
-
Used the sunshine today to take the bike out for a quick test ride and bed the brakes in.
I haven’t properly ridden it yet due to the weather and recovering from an accident, but my first impressions are very positive!
It accelerates well, doesn’t feel spongy and is super comfortable. So far, I’m very satisfied with the overall quality and ride feel. A long-term review will follow later on.
7.7 kg in size 56 with GPS mount, one bottle cage, and power meter pedals.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z/rdbk.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QXywr8Z)
Nice build! reminds me of the uno-x ridley in a very good way
Would you mind sharing any pictures from the downtube-aero bottle transition?
-
Hi all,
I'm new to chinertown and ordered my LCR018-D today :)
Many new things for me here: First chinese carbon, first bike build, first road bike.
Coming from downhill MTB, got my first gravel last year, but did enjoy riding fast on the road much more then riding on gravel, so here we are :D
Have gone with a Deep Ocean Blue color (inspired by lb7894546 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg101778.html#msg101778), looked sick) with Gittering Gold decals.
Payed 1.099$ ins total (~940€), including their basic BB and shipping to germany.
For the build I'm not sure yet. Either Elitewheels ENT 2.0 + Ultegra Di2 or Elitewheels Edge + 105 Di2 (both with Magene P515 powermeter).
Both combinations costs roughly the same, going with Edge + 105 should be slightly lighter. What would you go for?
Delivery time is expected mid march (size 50), will keep you guys updated how it's going.
-
Hi all,
I'm new to chinertown and ordered my LCR018-D today :)
Many new things for me here: First chinese carbon, first bike build, first road bike.
Coming from downhill MTB, got my first gravel last year, but did enjoy riding fast on the road much more then riding on gravel, so here we are :D
Have gone with a Deep Ocean Blue color (inspired by lb7894546 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg101778.html#msg101778), looked sick) with Gittering Gold decals.
Payed 1.099$ ins total (~940€), including their basic BB and shipping to germany.
For the build I'm not sure yet. Either Elitewheels ENT 2.0 + Ultegra Di2 or Elitewheels Edge + 105 Di2 (both with Magene P515 powermeter).
Both combinations costs roughly the same, going with Edge + 105 should be slightly lighter. What would you go for?
Delivery time is expected mid march (size 50), will keep you guys updated how it's going.
I'd go the better wheels, they would make more of a difference to the ride feel, shifting performance of 105 vs Ultegra is almost identical
-
Hi all,
I'm new to chinertown and ordered my LCR018-D today :)
Many new things for me here: First chinese carbon, first bike build, first road bike.
Coming from downhill MTB, got my first gravel last year, but did enjoy riding fast on the road much more then riding on gravel, so here we are :D
Have gone with a Deep Ocean Blue color (inspired by lb7894546 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg101778.html#msg101778), looked sick) with Gittering Gold decals.
Payed 1.099$ ins total (~940€), including their basic BB and shipping to germany.
For the build I'm not sure yet. Either Elitewheels ENT 2.0 + Ultegra Di2 or Elitewheels Edge + 105 Di2 (both with Magene P515 powermeter).
Both combinations costs roughly the same, going with Edge + 105 should be slightly lighter. What would you go for?
Delivery time is expected mid march (size 50), will keep you guys updated how it's going.
Nice! Light Carbon really do a great job with the deep ocean paint job, I've had several compliments on group rides of how great the paint job turned out, I think you will be quite happy.
Can't say I have experience with either set of these elite wheels, so will let other's comment on if there is a noticeable difference between the two options you list. But if it were me, would probably take advantage of the increased tire clearance of the 018D frame and go for wheelsets with wider internal width, seems both of those wheelsets are still on the 21 mm internal, designed for 25, maybe 28 mm tires (though of course so long as the wheelset is hooked, you can likely put bigger tires on there). I'm all about comfort and rocking 30-32 mm tires from here out and never looking back, may even go to 35 mm tires if they start making some fast rolling tires at that width, and so was really interested in wheelsets with 23-25 mm internal widths. But if you are set on choosing between these wheelsets, you are more likely to notice a difference in the lighter weight wheels as that lighter rotational mass will be easier to spin up. Conversely though, the heavier wheels may act more like a flywheel and hold their speed once you actually get them going, so if just doing a lot of flats at speed, the lighter wheelset may not be as noticeable.
As for groupset, as others mentioned, shifting will be pretty similar. Yes the front shifting will be a bit faster with ultegra and maybe the hyperglide + makes shifting under load a bit smoother for ultegra, but this is likely not super noticeable unless you ride both back to back. What I will say is I went with ultegra and have really enjoyed the bonus buttons on ultegra for controlling my bike computer and swiping through cycling data without having to take my hands off the hoods. That said, if you went 105, you could program one of the shifters to have the front deraileur up and down shift controlled by the same button (since in theory you don't need to have one for up and one for down, just a single button to say switch to whatever front ring isn't being used), and then use the other button to control the bike computer. A bit less convenient but manageable if you want that functionality on 105.
-
Just some snippet in lightcarbon new video in yt, looks like they have this with a wider tire clearance and looks like LCR018-D design and they make Lameda Frames Too?
-
Just some snippet in lightcarbon new video in yt, looks like they have this with a wider tire clearance and looks like LCR018-D design and they make Lameda Frames Too?
Lambda-Racing is a German brand that plans to market the LightCarbon frame under its own name as a complete bicycle starting in April.
-
Lambda-Racing is a German brand that plans to market the LightCarbon frame under its own name as a complete bicycle starting in April.
Oh sorry should be lambda not lameda, no wonder orders takes a lot of time to wait for those individuals who ordered via their email because they have this lambda bulk orders. ::)
-
Would you mind sharing any pictures from the downtube-aero bottle transition?
I have the same bottles. Is there a specific angle you want? Last pic is on a slight angle but from below the bottle is hidden
-
Lambda-Racing is a German brand that plans to market the LightCarbon frame under its own name as a complete bicycle starting in April.
Lambda-Racing doesn't pass the sniff test.
-
Just some snippet in lightcarbon new video in yt, looks like they have this with a wider tire clearance and looks like LCR018-D design and they make Lameda Frames Too?
That gravel variant is interesting. Different head tube. The fork doesn't have the silly lobes on the dropouts. Rear tire clearance looks massive. Both chainstays look slightly dropped. Those bars make no sense in it.
-
Oh sorry should be lambda not lameda, no wonder orders takes a lot of time to wait for those individuals who ordered via their email because they have this lambda bulk orders. ::)
LC Are a B2B. They just happen to sell single units directly to customers.
I’m sure they would much rather make 100 identical frames, than 100 individually specced and painted 1 offs to 100 customers continuously changing their minds on colour etc.
I’m sure they’ve learned many lessons from the 18-Ds success, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they won’t allow so many options in future.
-
What do you think, too wide or is it still okay? 😬
There's exactly 3mm of clearance everywhere. If it were a slick tire, I'd ride it like that immediately and wouldn't be asking you, but with this tread pattern, I'm a bit worried a stone might damage my frame. 😬
Yes, my setup will be completely different from anything I've seen from you guys so far 😉😄
-
I would definitely put protective tape where the tire might rub, and check regularly for indications.
-
What do you think, too wide or is it still okay? 😬
There's exactly 3mm of clearance everywhere. If it were a slick tire, I'd ride it like that immediately and wouldn't be asking you, but with this tread pattern, I'm a bit worried a stone might damage my frame. 😬
Yes, my setup will be completely different from anything I've seen from you guys so far 😉😄
Which wheel/tire combo is this?
-
I would definitely put protective tape where the tire might rub, and check regularly for indications.
Regardless, I've already applied high-quality protective film to all the inside surfaces 👌
-
Which wheel/tire combo is this?
It's an XMCS wheelset 50/36/28mm with Schwalbe G-One R Pro 45mm/40mm tires which are absolutely perfect 45 and 40mm wide on the rims 👌
-
The first thing that will rub are those spews on the tires. Maybe consider trimming them.
The look of that black bike with those beefy tires with tan walls is very nice.
-
The first thing that will rub are those spews on the tires. Maybe consider trimming them.
The look of that black bike with those beefy tires with tan walls is very nice.
I've already cut off half a million of the bubbles 😄
-
New paint video just dropped. It's funny to see how little effort was made to hide the LAMBDA graphics toward the end of the piece.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKDSHuPBkW4
-
LC Are a B2B. They just happen to sell single units directly to customers.
I’m sure they would much rather make 100 identical frames, than 100 individually specced and painted 1 offs to 100 customers continuously changing their minds on colour etc.
I mostly agree with Potoo. LC is clearly B2B-first, and from a production point of view they’d obviously rather make 100 identical frames than 100 one-off customs.
That said, LC just posted a video actively promoting customisation, so it is something they’re pushing right now. My guess is this works because custom paint is high-margin and doesn’t hit the main carbon layup bottleneck (if this is where the bottleneck is ¯\_(ツ)_/¯).
video:
https://youtu.be/qKDSHuPBkW4?si=UlKSHzQ6tUHX5gQw (https://youtu.be/qKDSHuPBkW4?si=UlKSHzQ6tUHX5gQw)
Also a suprising sight at 0:19, not sure what to think of this...
-
Specialised!??
-
Just received the pictures of my freshly painted frame 😍
It’s raw carbon, with a matte finish on the top side and glossy on the bottom, plus my own custom logo.
If the design looks familiar, that’s because the same color scheme is used in the LightCarbon PDF.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/downloads/2025-2026%20LightCarbon%20Frame+Component%20Catalog%20-V2.pdf
or from instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/DJYaOvZMnZP/
Really love how it came out and I honestly can’t wait to start the build and get this thing on the road
-
Hi guys!
Sorry I haven't read everything yet. ::)
I'm very interested in this frame. I'm 175cm with an inseam of 78cm. I think 520 would be the right size. Or should I go with 500?
Has anybody mounted a Wheeltop EDS TX to this frame?
-
Hi guys!
Sorry I haven't read everything yet. ::)
I'm very interested in this frame. I'm 175cm with an inseam of 78cm. I think 520 would be the right size. Or should I go with 500?
Has anybody mounted a Wheeltop EDS TX to this frame?
I also have a 78cm inseam, but I'm only 1.68m tall. I chose size 50 with 380/90 handlebars; the seatpost extension is 69cm.
-
I also have a 78cm inseam, but I'm only 1.68m tall. I chose size 50 with 380/90 handlebars; the seatpost extension is 69cm.
Looks good! Could also work for me but I would take a 400/100 or 380/100 handlebar.
-
Blue UDH just arrived in time for the frame, which will come this afternoon ;D
And has whopping 31.2 grams.
Is this the Wheeltop EDS TX?
-
How many months did most of the people here to wait upon invoice payment to receive images from LC on their frames prior to shipping? Thanks
-
Ordered mine in size 56 (payment the 28th november) and no information yet
-
Is this the Wheeltop EDS TX?
Yes ;)
I was a bit unsure if the front derailleur would rub on the tire, but even with 34mm it's enough space.
-
Yes ;)
I was a bit unsure if the front derailleur would rub on the tire, but even with 34mm it's enough space.
Great thanks, good to know.
-
Does anybody know actual delivery time for a frame size 500 with custom painting?
-
Hi guys!
Sorry I haven't read everything yet. ::)
I'm very interested in this frame. I'm 175cm with an inseam of 78cm. I think 520 would be the right size. Or should I go with 500?
Has anybody mounted a Wheeltop EDS TX to this frame?
I just ordered my frame, so I can't evalute my decision yet, but I'm 172cm with 79cm inseam and went with 500 with 380x100mm handlebar.
My thought process here was (from experience with my gravel bike, which I bought the larger size and can't get the fit right), making the bike a bit longer or higher is easier than make it shorter. With the 100mm stem I have 10-20mm in both directions.
Does anybody know actual delivery time for a frame size 500 with custom painting?
I ordered mine a week ago and was told mid-march.
-
I just ordered my frame, so I can't evalute my decision yet, but I'm 172cm with 79cm inseam and went with 500 with 380x100mm handlebar.
My thought process here was (from experience with my gravel bike, which I bought the larger size and can't get the fit right), making the bike a bit longer or higher is easier than make it shorter. With the 100mm stem I have 10-20mm in both directions.
I ordered mine a week ago and was told mid-march.
Im 174cm height and 77 inseam. Size 50 with 380x110mm handle bar, paid invoice dec 15 and no update yet. And chinese new year is approaching lol.
-
I also installed enduro bearings and adhered to LightCarbon's 6Nm torque specification, because I assumed there must be a reason why LightCarbon recommends 6Nm 🤷🏻♂️
Can you please give me more information which bearing of enduro did you used? I am also planning to swap these out and the frame is not yet here to measure it.
-
Can you please give me more information which bearing of enduro did you used? I am also planning to swap these out and the frame is not yet here to measure it.
https://www.bike24.de/p1180630.html
-
I ordered this week. Size 52 with the HBR14. It is the eurobike painting with other colours. At first i would like to take the eurobike pattern with a teal green instead of black but the dont have the colours. Wendy said could arrive end of march in germany.
Which thru axle length I have to take? Of course 100/142 but with thread length? I am not quite sure.
-
I ordered mine a week ago and was told mid-march.
Oh, that sounds good to me. 👍
-
I ordered this week. Size 52 with the HBR14. It is the eurobike painting with other colours. At first i would like to take the eurobike pattern with a teal green instead of black but the dont have the colours. Wendy said could arrive end of march in germany.
Which thru axle length I have to take? Of course 100/142 but with thread length? I am not quite sure.
The axles are included with the frame and they're quite light. Unfortunately, you won't find a lighter alternative that fits well 😬
-
I'm still a bit undecided about which frame size to get. The red one is a Scott Addict Gravel in size S, which I feel very comfortable on. The blue one is the Lightcarbon in size 500, and the yellow one is the Lightcarbon in size 520.
I think it will probably go with the 520. More extension auf the seat post on the 500 would look sportier. ;D
Could someone with similar body measurements (175cm / inseam 78cm) perhaps post photos of a 520?
Thanks guys!
-
Align the three frames by the bottom bracket both vertically and horizontally (its an option on bike-stats). That will be a much more useful comparison and should make it a bit clearer which frame fits better
-
Align the three frames by the bottom bracket both vertically and horizontally (its an option on bike-stats). That will be a much more useful comparison and should make it a bit clearer which frame fits better
I previously did this with two frames each. Sorry I didn't post it.
The 500 is a little bit smaller then the Scott and the 520 is a little bit taller.
-
Lightcarbon told me that there are two option for the Garmin holder.
Titanium and Nylon+short fiber.
Does anyone have photos of the two variants?
Are there other options maybe from Ali which would fit onto the HBR17?
-
Are there other options maybe from Ali which would fit onto the HBR17?
If you like tinkering, you can fit a generic 2-bolt adapter either using the included 3-bolt light holder or some washers (I tried both, but decided for the former). This has a benefit of having an adapter exactly as long as I want, while the whole assembly weighs less than or very similar to the titanium one.
-
The axles are included with the frame and they're quite light. Unfortunately, you won't find a lighter alternative that fits well 😬
As a dedicated WW I’m ok with that. Those axles are fine as they are, for the sort of bike it is.
-
I previously did this with two frames each. Sorry I didn't post it.
The 500 is a little bit smaller then the Scott and the 520 is a little bit taller.
For me personally, 5cm of spacers is too much. I think a bike with less spacers rides much better (more direct) and it also looks better. I would go with the bigger bike in your situation
-
For me personally, 5cm of spacers is too much. I think a bike with less spacers rides much better (more direct) and it also looks better. I would go with the bigger bike in your situation
Thank you for your assessment.
I only used the 5cm spacers for comparison, since the Scott has 5cm spacers installed. ;-)
I will go for max 2cm.
Are there any other opinions on frame size?
Can someone show photos of a 520 with inseam of about +/- 78cm?
-
Thank you for your assessment.
I only used the 5cm spacers for comparison, since the Scott has 5cm spacers installed. ;-)
I will go for max 2cm.
Are there any other opinions on frame size?
Can someone show photos of a 520 with inseam of about +/- 78cm?
My inseam length is 79 cm at a height of 1.75 m. I ride a size 52 frame with a saddle height of 69 cm.
-
My inseam length is 79 cm at a height of 1.75 m. I ride a size 52 frame with a saddle height of 69 cm.
Great thanks! Which stem length did you choose?
-
So, I'm finally done 😄
And yes, I've gone in a completely different direction than everyone else I've seen so far 😉
-LightCarbon LCR-018 frame, size 50, raw carbon matte finish
-LightCarbon HBR17 handlebars, 380/90mm
-XMCS 50/36/28 wheelset with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and In-House hubs
-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant
-SRAM Rival XPLR derailleur, brakes, grips, cassette, and chain
-SRAM bottom bracket DUB Wide T47 / 85.5
-SRAM Red Dub Wide crankset, 165mm, with Raketa Components 46t chainring
-Chaser Ultra Light brake rotors, 160mm/140mm, with Absolute Black Center Lock rings
-Ryet Ultimate Carbon saddle
-Wolf Tooth LoneWolf Aero Chainguide from Rose BACKROAD FF
-Wolf Tooth del Gravel Pedals
-Elite Leggero Carbon Bottle Cage
-SYNCROS Handlebar Tape RC Dark Grey
The bike weighs 7.83 kg as pictured, complete with pedals, bottle cages, and tubeless sealant 😎
-
So, I'm finally done 😄
Nice!!
I'm a wondering a little bit that you don't need an offset seatpost with 165mm cranks.
-
Great thanks! Which stem length did you choose?
100mm Stem
-
Nice!!
I'm a wondering a little bit that you don't need an offset seatpost with 165mm cranks.
I'm a hobbit with legs that are too long, and to be honest, I still need to try out how well or badly this combination works on the LightCarbon 🤷🏻♂️
It works perfectly on my Canyon Aerod, so I'm quite confident here too 😉
-
Ordered 12/1 and just asked Jim for an update, and he said all of their workers went on break and won't be back until mid-March so I'm guessing my bike won't be delivered until April.
-
So, I'm finally done 😄
And yes, I've gone in a completely different direction than everyone else I've seen so far 😉
-LightCarbon LCR-018 frame, size 50, raw carbon matte finish
-LightCarbon HBR17 handlebars, 380/90mm
-XMCS 50/36/28 wheelset with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and In-House hubs
-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant
-SRAM Rival XPLR derailleur, brakes, grips, cassette, and chain
-SRAM bottom bracket DUB Wide T47 / 85.5
-SRAM Red Dub Wide crankset, 165mm, with Raketa Components 46t chainring
-Chaser Ultra Light brake rotors, 160mm/140mm, with Absolute Black Center Lock rings
-Ryet Ultimate Carbon saddle
-Wolf Tooth LoneWolf Aero Chainguide from Rose BACKROAD FF
-Wolf Tooth del Gravel Pedals
-Elite Leggero Carbon Bottle Cage
-SYNCROS Handlebar Tape RC Dark Grey
The bike weighs 7.83 kg as pictured, complete with pedals, bottle cages, and tubeless sealant 😎
His wheelset is 36mm outer diameter and 28 inner and he managed to fit 40cc tires. I’ll be fitting also 40mm tires on this one but using 24 inner diameter rim should not give any problem and still enough safe space between the frame and the tire.
-
His wheelset is 36mm outer diameter and 28 inner and he managed to fit 40cc tires. I’ll be fitting also 40mm tires on this one but using 24 inner diameter rim should not give any problem and still enough safe space between the frame and the tire.
The Schwalbe g-one R Pro is actually quite small and therefore measures exactly 40mm or 45mm wide on a 28mm internal rim, leaving me with 3mm of clearance on all sides within the frame. I'll have to see if it works well, but I really like the look of it 😄
-
His wheelset is 36mm outer diameter and 28 inner and he managed to fit 40cc tires. I’ll be fitting also 40mm tires on this one but using 24 inner diameter rim should not give any problem and still enough safe space between the frame and the tire.
I currently have a set of 40mm Schwalbe G-one Allround mounted on 24mm internal (32ext) and they also measure exactly 40mm. I don't have the frame yet and I will give this wheel/tire combo a shot but I wouldn't be super comfy in saying there's plenty of space and it shouldn't give a problem. With this little clearance you're definitely pushing the edge (when the ride gets a bit muddy).
-
I currently have a set of 40mm Schwalbe G-one Allround mounted on 24mm internal (32ext) and they also measure exactly 40mm. I don't have the frame yet and I will give this wheel/tire combo a shot but I wouldn't be super comfy in saying there's plenty of space and it shouldn't give a problem. With this little clearance you're definitely pushing the edge (when the ride gets a bit muddy).
ETRO says 4mm and I have at least 3mm 🤷🏻♂️
so I'm not too worried about it and will just try it out 😉
-
ETRO says 4mm and I have at least 3mm 🤷🏻♂️
so I'm not too worried about it and will just try it out 😉
Fair enough. I'm also going to try it out 😉
I'm just saying that I'm not super comfy about it as I also have an Orbea Oiz with 2.4" tire clearance and 2.4" tires and on that bike I can see that the tires have been rubbing the chainstays. It looks good visually but when riding it is touching every now and then. Not a big problem though.
Also, outside the comfort zone is where the magic happens :P
-
I quickly took two photos today on the Scott Addict.
I think I will go with frame size 520, 15mm offset seatpost, 100mm stem and reduce spacers.
What do you think?
-
What do you think?
I think you should go and get a bike fit instead of guessing.
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/ (https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/)
-
There is not much room for adjustment on the seat height. I need to cut my seat post 5-6cm even with relatively long legs. 78cm inseam on 47cm frame. Wouldn’t it be logical to ship 47-50 frames with shorter seat posts than 400mm when the smallest frame can only take 17cm?
Not a serious complaint, but just a thought.
Picture of seat post slammed..
-
If you like tinkering, you can fit a generic 2-bolt adapter either using the included 3-bolt light holder or some washers (I tried both, but decided for the former). This has a benefit of having an adapter exactly as long as I want, while the whole assembly weighs less than or very similar to the titanium one.
I got the titanium because the info in this thread said it was shorter. Came in same length as the plastic one. Weight as pictured: 22g, 17g and 12g. Last one is 3d print. Just search the thread to find the files.
EDIT: KRoser is the man with the plan/files. https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg100188/topicseen.html#msg100188
-
Ordered 12/1 and just asked Jim for an update, and he said all of their workers went on break and won't be back until mid-March so I'm guessing my bike won't be delivered until April.
That's weird news :o What delivery date you were told at time of order?
-
That's weird news :o What delivery date you were told at time of order?
I had asked for an update last month and was told everything would be completed around now. It was supposed to be like 6-8 weeks. I am just absolutely shocked that they are getting a 6 week holiday break???
-
I had asked for an update last month and was told everything would be completed around now. It was supposed to be like 6-8 weeks. I am just absolutely shocked that they are getting a 6 week holiday break???
Chinese New Years, lots of businesses close or skeleton crews during this time for a few weeks.
-
Chinese New Years, lots of businesses close or skeleton crews during this time for a few weeks.
Well yea, I figured 2-3 weeks sure. But 6 weeks??
-
Ordered 12/1 and just asked Jim for an update, and he said all of their workers went on break and won't be back until mid-March so I'm guessing my bike won't be delivered until April.
Looks like paid invoices from November and December 2025 will cause a long delay, chinese new year and they prioritized LAMBDA bulk orders.
-
I paid in the first week of November and it’s still not shipped….
-
kjerts: Nice one, love to see some 3d printing :). How does that computer holder fits, everything good?
-
Hey guys, I already looked through page 90-92 with the discussion about the headset spacer and gap problem. I now installed the headset with the 0.7 mm spacer and tested everything with the compression plug and the correct tightened ahead cap. I still got a massive gap especially on front part of the bike that is not getting smaller by tightening the ahead cap. What would you advise me? Attach pictures are without handlebar installed, but the gap stays the same regardless. Thank you all for the help :)
-
Hey guys, I already looked through page 90-92 with the discussion about the headset spacer and gap problem. I now installed the headset with the 0.7 mm spacer and tested everything with the compression plug and the correct tightened ahead cap. I still got a massive gap especially on front part of the bike that is not getting smaller by tightening the ahead cap. What would you advise me? Attach pictures are without handlebar installed, but the gap stays the same regardless. Thank you all for the help :)
It’s a spacer.
Measure the gap. If it’s over 0.7mm remove the spacer. If it’s less, leave it in.
I’m not sure why so many people are getting confused by this. Obviously you don’t want the are to rub, but conversely, no need to add a spacer to create a huge gap.
-
It’s a spacer.
Measure the gap. If it’s over 0.7mm remove the spacer. If it’s less, leave it in.
I will try that - thanks! I’ve never built up a bike from scratch so I rather ask all this talented people here then making something stupid :)
-
Hello. How long did you have to wait to receive your frame? I mean only the shipping time from the factory, not the time from ordering. It was shipped a week ago with a DE shipping postfix [which isn’t working yet], so I’m curious when I’ll be able to build my bike. Thank you :)
delivery address is Europe - SK
-
I will try that - thanks! I’ve never built up a bike from scratch so I rather ask all this talented people here then making something stupid :)
Trust your instincts.
I honestly don’t know why some builds need the spacer and some don’t.
There could be a difference due to paint thickness, or small variations in the bearing seat.
If it rubs, add the spacer. If it doesn’t rub, just leave it out 👍🏼
I’ve built various winspace bikes for people and some need a fine spacer and others don’t.
This situation isn’t unique to the 18-D so don’t be concerned about the quality or robustness.
Shout if you have any questions
-
Hey guys, I already looked through page 90-92 with the discussion about the headset spacer and gap problem. I now installed the headset with the 0.7 mm spacer and tested everything with the compression plug and the correct tightened ahead cap. I still got a massive gap especially on front part of the bike that is not getting smaller by tightening the ahead cap. What would you advise me? Attach pictures are without handlebar installed, but the gap stays the same regardless. Thank you all for the help :)
Exactly what POTOOOOOOOO said. I tried both ways, and ended up using the spacer, but the interference was marginal. It must be the variation on paint film thickness that varies from one bike to the next.
Having said that, the gap on yours doesn't look too bad in the picture.
My first bike build too, so a learning curve for us both!
-
No, you need 35mm for SRAM brakes too. 32mm is too short! I used these: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIdRM9Q
This is why I believe this is frame specific bolts.. I had 32mm bolts on my Canyon I thought I could borrow, but they did not reach through the hole..
-
I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for their estimated shipping times. I was quoted 30-45 days and am over 70 days.
Last week I asked if it would be finished before Chinese New Year and was told it is in paint but may not be done and shipped before they take their break.
-
Hello. How long did you have to wait to receive your frame?
Maybe some useful data points for anyone ordering to Germany, but note that lead times can change.
• 21.10.2025 — Ordered/paid → was told delivery would be 20.12.2025
• 03.12.2025 — Got informed that frame will take longer (ETA after Christmas) as laser silver logo will take longer (only after asking)
• 30.12.2025 — Received pictures (only after asking although I had requested this)
• 08.01.2026 — Frame was shipped (found out later)
• 12.01.2026 — Received photos (only after asking)
• 19.01.2026 — Received DHL tracking number (only after asking)
• 23.01.2026 — (until) Tracking showed “shipping info received” / label created
• 26.01.2026 — Frame arrived
So in short:
98 days in total from order to receiving.
18 days from shipment to delivery (08.01 → 26.01).
I must say that I am still impressed with the customer service. You just have to be aware that you might have to ask about everything yourself. However, they respond quickly, comprehensively, and always politely!
-
For Shimano brakes is the chainstay thickness 35mm or do I need 35mm bolts? I got a second hand groupset and it didn't come with the bolts to mount the brakes. Thanks
-
Hey guys, I already looked through page 90-92 with the discussion about the headset spacer and gap problem. I now installed the headset with the 0.7 mm spacer and tested everything with the compression plug and the correct tightened ahead cap. I still got a massive gap especially on front part of the bike that is not getting smaller by tightening the ahead cap. What would you advise me? Attach pictures are without handlebar installed, but the gap stays the same regardless. Thank you all for the help :)
Could the difference be how deeply the top bearing seats? Not all bearings of the same ID and OD have the same depth (or bevel angle).
-
Jim sent me a reply, and he clarified that he expects painting to be completed mid-March which is a little bit better. He offered an extra free hanger as compensation, not really sure that's needed considering I already ordered some extra hangers but oh well. Would have rather had an upgrade to like ceramic bearings.
-
Could the difference be how deeply the top bearing seats? Not all bearings of the same ID and OD have the same depth (or bevel angle).
If it doesn’t have the same angle as the seat, it’s not the correct bearing for the frame.
Some 45-45 bearings are 6.5mm and some are 7.0mm, but I don’t think that accounts for the difference as the enduro bearing is the same thickness as the included LC bearings.
I’m not aware of anyone fitting a different brand, but happy to be corrected on that.
-
Jim sent me a reply, and he clarified that he expects painting to be completed mid-March which is a little bit better. He offered an extra free hanger as compensation, not really sure that's needed considering I already ordered some extra hangers but oh well. Would have rather had an upgrade to like ceramic bearings.
When did you paid invoice mate?
-
When did you paid invoice mate?
12/1
-
If it doesn’t have the same angle as the seat, it’s not the correct bearing for the frame.
Some 45-45 bearings are 6.5mm and some are 7.0mm, but I don’t think that accounts for the difference as the enduro bearing is the same thickness as the included LC bearings.
I’m not aware of anyone fitting a different brand, but happy to be corrected on that.
If I were to order other bearings, I'd match the spec for the headset. I have done that when fitting Hambini bearings into an FSA headset.
-
Also update from my side:
I paid the invoice in beginning of January and the timeline was 4-6 weeks production. Now it is till the end of march, so about 12 weeks/double the estimated timeframe.
I communicated this, and will get bottle holders as a "present" for the delay.
You cannot do much at the moment, it is what it is.
Size 58/glossy carbon
-
Also update from my side:
I paid the invoice in beginning of January and the timeline was 4-6 weeks production. Now it is till the end of march, so about 12 weeks/double the estimated timeframe.
I communicated this, and will get bottle holders as a "present" for the delay.
You cannot do much at the moment, it is what it is.
Size 58/glossy carbon
I'm in the same boat (same size, finish and time of order).
This is the reply I got from Jim: The completion time for the painting is currently uncertain. According to the schedule, it should be finished by mid-March, but every year during the Chinese New Year holiday, some workers experience delays in returning to work.
-
How many months did most of the people here to wait upon invoice payment to receive images from LC on their frames prior to shipping? Thanks
Make sure you actually request QC images, for the record.
-
I was able to get an upgrade to the ceramic BB as I was already ordering extra hangers and a free hanger doesn't really do anything for me. I'm content with this solution especially since it's still winter in March for me anyways.
-
Anyone watch the new episode of the Nero Show today? ;)
-
kjerts: Nice one, love to see some 3d printing :). How does that computer holder fits, everything good?
Yes, very nice. The original has wider groves around the screw holes for the computer insert, but there is no movement when mounted. I made a new print with ironing activated and the finish got much nicer. Could actually gone even shorter for my Bolt, but it looks good
-
Anyone watch the new episode of the Nero Show today? ;)
i thought it was a bit rediculous despite talking about aero testing a lot on previous shows when they dont like results (the seka spear being top 5) then they dont matter and "vibes" are what counts.
if what joe from china cycling told them is true and most of LC's business is direct to consumer they should really improve the ordering process and handling status updates, the process of discussing your order via email must put people off.
the talking point about not wanting to ride a bike branded lightcarbon showed a lack of knowledge that you can have it painted however you like and just general snobbery that plagues the cycling community
-
I think Chinese branding is generally pretty horrible when companies try to leverage English in any way shape or form. There's a general lack of appreciation that you can't just string some positive-sounding adjectives and nouns together and create an appealing brand identity. LightCarbon, Quickpro, Winspace...all pretty cringe. Tavelo, only slightly better. Seka, is fine. I'd ride any of those brands but would have to talk myself into ignoring the branding on some of them. When custom paint is an option, no way am I going to have a huge LightCarbon graphic on the downtube. Yet, I'd put a small one somewhere on the bike. I'm not ashamed of the pedigree of my bikes, but the naming practices tend to be extremely tone-deaf.
As for the aero stuff, they put their hands up and recognized their own hypocrisy. They're absolutely right that moving forward the wind tunnel is really only meaningful if tests are done in ways that reflect the conditions where aerodynamics are most meaningful and where error-introducing factors are reduced. 55kph with mannequins would be a good start.
I thought their appreciation for the LC tour and interview was great to see.
-
Aero test at 55kph? Who rides up there? Given the population size that is able to maintain that for a meaningful amount of time (aero becomes irrelevant in a bunch draft), what is the relevance of that test?
-
Anyone else experiencing sideways play in the seat tube? Tighten to 6nm.. I have no used paste.. would that tighten the fit?
-
I ordered my LCR018-D size 54 today. Naked carbon with gloss finish, no decals. Shipping to the US with quite a few extra parts. Got one each of their saddles, some bottle holders, extra fork for when I get really old (hopeful I keep this bike a long time) a 15mm setback seatpost, a 27.2 15 mm setback seatpost for my Stigmata, plus some other bits like an extra computer mount and derailleur hanger.
I'm 178 cm and was able to use my Santa Cruz Stigmata 4 size M as a great geometry reference. Similar angles, bb drop, and stack with a 22mm longer reach. I spent some time optimizing the Stigmata reach and arrived at a 100 mm stem (it shipped with an 80) with the saddle being set back about 15mm on a zero-setback seat post. The LC bars are 5mm longer reach, so I ordered the LCHBR17 120mmx380cm bar. Total reach is only 3 mm longer reach than my reference Stigmata. Never went this narrow on a bar before, but my shoulders measure 39 cm, so evidently that is my modern - aero fit. Still waiting for the estimated schedule since Gavin has been avoiding committing to one so far.
I'll be building a SRAM 2x with my existing Reserve 42/47 wheels wearing Goodyear Pro5 35mm tires set up tubeless, measuring 37mm mounted. I really love the Goodyears, but if I do a big multi-pass ride, I might try my neglected Pirelli PZero Race30's with TPU tubes for lighter weight. The SRAM build is mostly Force with Red Cranks and Rival FD, SRAM std BB. Force threaded 2-sided Power Meter, and threaded chainrings. Super hilly here in UT, so I chose 10-36 cassette, and 48-35 gearing.
I appreciate this posts on this forum for giving me so many insights into this bike and confidence about how to order it!
Fingers crossed on the order, then I'll need to study up how to get some new Enduro headset SS bearings (thanks for this suggestion) and build a bike!
-
Aero test at 55kph? Who rides up there?
All of the elite competitors that these aero bikes are ostensibly designed for. If you don't pull turns in a break or sprint race finishes...or lead them out, then what are you on a Cervelo S5 or Factor One for? If you want to rock up on one for the vibe, that's just fine...but if we're going to measure the aerodynamic capabilities of these bikes against their competitors, they need to be tested at the speeds they're designed for, not just the speeds where those distinctions disappear.
-
The testing is not targeted to the pros that are paid to ride these, it’s purely a marketing tool at this point to sell 14k bikes to the weekend dentist warriors.
-
i thought it was a bit rediculous despite talking about aero testing a lot on previous shows when they dont like results (the seka spear being top 5) then they dont matter and "vibes" are what counts.
Having your opinion change when more information becomes available is completely valid. Before, the only objective and unbiased reference to aerodynamics was tour mag's aero test. Now that other tests, including their own, have been conducted and have yielded varying and inconsistent results, it is perfectly valid to question aero testing as a whole when the data is now seemingly inconsistent. At that point, considering that <10 watts is not even felt on a bike, what else do you have to go for? How it rides, aka "vibes" and weight.
I completely agree with them; their point about the Van Rysel RCR-F testing slower than the RCR speaks more about the testing accuracy rather than the bikes themselves.
-
Hey mates,
Got my after-paint QC photos last week and received the shipment tracking code today.
Frame size 54 — really happy with how the paint turned out.
I understand the point about centralizing the ordering system — having everything in a single platform with built-in order status tracking would definitely make the process feel more modern.
That said, the email communication itself works well. In my experience it’s been clear, responsive, and reliable. Moving everything into a dedicated platform would likely add operational costs for the company, which could end up increasing frame prices — and I’m pretty sure most buyers would rather keep costs down.
We also shouldn’t forget that LC shares post-production and post-paint photos/videos whenever requested. With many other brands you simply pay and wait without seeing anything until the box arrives.
Personally, dealing with Wendy has been great so far — quick replies despite the time zone difference and always willing to provide updates when asked.
Regarding the “LightCarbon” branding topic, I see it mostly as a matter of perception and branding trends. You can have the frame painted however you like — fully custom, different logos, or even completely unbranded — so the hesitation some riders have is more about community snobbery than the actual product.
You could apply the same logic to something like a “Quick-Pro” bike — which, to be clear, is a good brand that makes solid bikes. But owning one doesn’t automatically make someone quick or pro. Branding and rider perception don’t always reflect the real value of the product itself.
I think the same applies to the Chinese carbon market in general. There’s still a lot of prejudice around Chinese frames and wheels automatically being “cheap” or low quality — even though the reality has changed a lot in recent years. Manufacturing standards, QC, and finishing have improved significantly, in some cases rivaling well-known Western brands.
The “Chinese = bad” mindset definitely still exists, but a lot of it comes down to knowing where to look and which manufacturers to trust.
-
Hey everyone,
While I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my frame, I'd like to do some prep work for the custom decals I want to apply.
Could anyone who has the frame in hand provide me with the following dimensions, if possible?
- Width and height of the Lightcarbon logo on the front of the headtube, or the width of the headtube itself (I know it's tapered, but widest part is okay).
- Width of the seat tube (rear-facing part).
- If anyone has a size 58 frame: The height between the top of the seat tube and the top of the wind-eye.
I've already searched this thread but haven't found anything. With these dimensions, I can already have my decals ready in time for when my frame arrives.
Thanks!
-
Width of the seat tube (rear-facing part) = about 29mm overall. Or if you exclude the 'radiused' parts either side it's about 25mm.
Sorry, I have a 52 frame with no logos, so I cannot answer your other two questions.
-
Hey mates,
Got my after-paint QC photos last week and received the shipment tracking code today.
Frame size 54 — really happy with how the paint turned out.
I understand the point about centralizing the ordering system — having everything in a single platform with built-in order status tracking would definitely make the process feel more modern.
That said, the email communication itself works well. In my experience it’s been clear, responsive, and reliable. Moving everything into a dedicated platform would likely add operational costs for the company, which could end up increasing frame prices — and I’m pretty sure most buyers would rather keep costs down.
We also shouldn’t forget that LC shares post-production and post-paint photos/videos whenever requested. With many other brands you simply pay and wait without seeing anything until the box arrives.
Personally, dealing with Wendy has been great so far — quick replies despite the time zone difference and always willing to provide updates when asked.
Regarding the “LightCarbon” branding topic, I see it mostly as a matter of perception and branding trends. You can have the frame painted however you like — fully custom, different logos, or even completely unbranded — so the hesitation some riders have is more about community snobbery than the actual product.
You could apply the same logic to something like a “Quick-Pro” bike — which, to be clear, is a good brand that makes solid bikes. But owning one doesn’t automatically make someone quick or pro. Branding and rider perception don’t always reflect the real value of the product itself.
I think the same applies to the Chinese carbon market in general. There’s still a lot of prejudice around Chinese frames and wheels automatically being “cheap” or low quality — even though the reality has changed a lot in recent years. Manufacturing standards, QC, and finishing have improved significantly, in some cases rivaling well-known Western brands.
The “Chinese = bad” mindset definitely still exists, but a lot of it comes down to knowing where to look and which manufacturers to trust.
Looks great! What colour red and finish?
-
Ferrari red, Full gloss finish Paint Color YS3293
Logos are laser silver
-
Anyone else experiencing sideways play in the seat tube? Tighten to 6nm.. I have no used paste.. would that tighten the fit?
Hello, I had the same issue by torquing it to spec mentioned on the seat post clamp screw (6-8Nm). I wrote to Jim and he directed me to the build guide sheet that comes with the frame and told me the correct spec is 8-10Nm. I torqued it to 10Nm and I no longer have any play!
-
Anyone watch the new episode of the Nero Show today? ;)
Yeah I watched it
On LightCarbon’s ordering process — I get the criticism, but context matters. They operate much closer to an OEM / factory-direct model than a retail brand or online bike shop. You’re essentially commissioning a frame, not buying off the shelf. The email workflow isn’t slick, but it enables customization and keeps overhead low.
Moving to centralized platforms and live tracking would inevitably raise operational costs — and frame prices along with it. Personally, I wouldn’t want that “improved” if it meant losing the pricing advantage. As it stands, the email process works for what it is.
On the “copy / rip-off” point, I think nuance got lost too. The interview framed it more as learning from trends, sharing knowledge, and combining ideas into their own designs — closer to iterative design / fast-following than outright copying. If adopting and refining concepts is “rip-off,” then a large part of the industry would fall into that category.
-
Got the delivery schedule for my size 54 frame order.
Order date Feb 5 -- estimated delivery date to the US - April 5.
Longer lead time explained due to the Chinese New Year.
-
Got the delivery schedule for my size 54 frame order.
Order date Feb 5 -- estimated delivery date to the US - April 5.
Longer lead time explained due to the Chinese New Year.
If they actually make that date that would be insanely impressive considering how big of a backlog they have.
-
I think Chinese branding is generally pretty horrible when companies try to leverage English in any way shape or form. There's a general lack of appreciation that you can't just string some positive-sounding adjectives and nouns together and create an appealing brand identity. LightCarbon, Quickpro, Winspace...all pretty cringe. Tavelo, only slightly better. Seka, is fine.
If you think the bike brand names are a bit wierd, check out some of the car brands...
Landwind
Ora Funky Cat
Dongfeng Brave Soldior
-
If they actually make that date that would be insanely impressive considering how big of a backlog they have.
Yes, bit optimistic probably by LC. I ordered dec 15th and was told frame would be finished from painting around half March, meaning probably end of March before arriving at my doorstep. About 2 months delay to what was initially communicated.
-
I ordered a frame set today and asked for the delivery date (timerange).
-
Maybe it's faster to order a Lamda? ;D
Jokes aside.. the foam in the box is closed cell, right? This anti ratle hack/bodge will not soak water in the frame?
-
FWIW - I had a discussion with Gavin and found out the BB and Headtube are ~15% and 11% stiffer if the bike is built without the storage compartment. We have some significant descents here in UT, often with strong crosswinds and some uneven pavement from the cold winters. Because I've had some unpleasant experiences with a few bikes lacking stability at speed, I changed my order to the no compartment option.
-
FWIW - I had a discussion with Gavin and found out the BB and Headtube are ~15% and 11% stiffer if the bike is built without the storage compartment. We have some significant descents here in UT, often with strong crosswinds and some uneven pavement from the cold winters. Because I've had some unpleasant experiences with a few bikes lacking stability at speed, I changed my order to the no compartment option.
What?!
Who is Gavin - a sales rep?
This sounds absolutely crazy.
-
FWIW - I had a discussion with Gavin and found out the BB and Headtube are ~15% and 11% stiffer if the bike is built without the storage compartment. We have some significant descents here in UT, often with strong crosswinds and some uneven pavement from the cold winters. Because I've had some unpleasant experiences with a few bikes lacking stability at speed, I changed my order to the no compartment option.
LC need to inform this things to the end user to know before finalizing the order if with or without storage compartment is an option. IMO
-
Maybe it's faster to order a Lamda? ;D
Jokes aside.. the foam in the box is closed cell, right? This anti ratle hack/bodge will not soak water in the frame?
I used this https://r2-bike.com/CAPGO-Noise-Protection-fuer-Bremsleitungen-Bremszugaussenhuellen-Orange-Line-2-m and it's fantastic 👌
-
FWIW - I had a discussion with Gavin and found out the BB and Headtube are ~15% and 11% stiffer if the bike is built without the storage compartment. We have some significant descents here in UT, often with strong crosswinds and some uneven pavement from the cold winters. Because I've had some unpleasant experiences with a few bikes lacking stability at speed, I changed my order to the no compartment option.
I don't find this statement from Galvin very plausible and would recommend asking Jim, he's the expert 😬
-
Hello, I had the same issue by torquing it to spec mentioned on the seat post clamp screw (6-8Nm). I wrote to Jim and he directed me to the build guide sheet that comes with the frame and told me the correct spec is 8-10Nm. I torqued it to 10Nm and I no longer have any play!
i would be shitting my pants doing it upto 10Nm, i have a gravel frame that has a hairline fracture on the back of the seatpost from being overtightened
-
Of course cutting a big hole in the down tube will effect stiffness. Less material, less stiff. If they’ve done FEA finite element analysis I’m sure they have a good understanding of the stiffness losses involved.
( it would also depend what size frame they tested )
One things for sure. A big hole isn’t going to make it more stiff unless that add a lot more material, which will equal more weight.
It’s like having a car and making a convertible model. The convertible will be less stiff unless they add more strengthening/ weight.
ÌMHO it’s absolutely nothing to worry about. And it absolutely won’t affect real world handling. Geometry, and centre of mass will have a far greater influence on that.
-
i would be shitting my pants doing it upto 10Nm, i have a gravel frame that has a hairline fracture on the back of the seatpost from being overtightened
Tbh I was worried about it too, but I had some lateral play even at 9Nm while performing hard efforts while seated and that's when I wrote to Jim. Since this information comes from LC directly, I am hoping the seatpost is tested for this torque setting to be deemed safe!
-
I used this https://r2-bike.com/CAPGO-Noise-Protection-fuer-Bremsleitungen-Bremszugaussenhuellen-Orange-Line-2-m and it's fantastic 👌
I can recommend the Muqzi Foam Liner from Ali:
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006757133826.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
-
Is it really 38g for 1.6m?? The r2-bike is 3.4g for 2m.. my stuff was maybe 4g for what I used.
-
I ordered a frame set today and asked for the delivery date (timerange).
Let us know what answer they give you!
-
They already included LCR018-D on their website.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022)
Rider height, tire compatibility, chainrings references etc included.
-
Is it really 38g for 1.6m?? The r2-bike is 3.4g for 2m.. my stuff was maybe 4g for what I used.
I didn’t put it on a scale but I think it’s not that heavy. Maybe around 10g because it was a more rugged type of Foam (compared to the r2). I went with this because of the storage door.
I got the same length left in the basement. Going to weight it.
-
hello, I have a question regarding seatpost. Is it replacable with some seatposts which are available on regular eshops [like for specialized sl8] or it is specific shape which is used only by LC?
-
They already included LCR018-D on their website.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022)
Rider height, tire compatibility, chainrings references etc included.
Is it just me, or is their height-based sizing reference a bit… interesting? I get that it’s only a guideline and depends on body proportions and personal preference, but looking at the geometry, I’d personally size up one frame. Where they recommend a 54, I’d go 56; where they suggest 56, I’d choose 58, and so on.
-
Is it just me, or is their height-based sizing reference a bit… interesting? I get that it’s only a guideline and depends on body proportions and personal preference, but looking at the geometry, I’d personally size up one frame. Where they recommend a 54, I’d go 56; where they suggest 56, I’d choose 58, and so on.
It’s just you.
-
I'm 186cm but with 94.5cm inseam I would have to choose the largest size on most chinese frames and still the seat tube is too short on most of them.
-
I'm 186cm but with 94.5cm inseam I would have to choose the largest size on most chinese frames and still the seat tube is too short on most of them.
You’re at the far end of the bell curve if those are your measurements. The seat tube on the 18-D is pretty low but a frame with a horizontal top tube would be more suitable.
-
Im 193 with a 92cm inseam and the 58 fits like a glove. 110 Stem.
I’d say they are a bit off but not too much. I’d start the recommendation for the 58 at 190 to 197
Of course these numbers can’t take all different bodies into consideration- like potoooooo said :)
-
hello, I have a question regarding seatpost. Is it replacable with some seatposts which are available on regular eshops [like for specialized sl8] or it is specific shape which is used only by LC?
There's really no reason not to use the LightCarbon seatpost. The quality and weight are absolutely fine. 👌
-
They already included LCR018-D on their website.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022)
Rider height, tire compatibility, chainrings references etc included.
Interesting they chose to spam "wind-tunnel optimized" everywhere in the product description.
-
It’s just you.
Is it?
Maybe.. I do have second thoughts now about the size I ordered. I went with a 56, but I’m 183 cm tall with an 88 cm inseam.
For reference, I've ridden a size 56 Cannondale SuperSix EVO (Gen 4), slammed with 110mm stem, which fitted me perfectly and has a rider height range of 177–185 cm. When I compare that bike to the LightCarbon size 54 (rated for 180–186 cm), the LC is actually about 6 mm lower in stack and 6 mm shorter in reach.
I know the SuperSix isn’t the most aggressive bike out there, but it’s still a proper race bike. The LC, on the other hand, is marketed as an “endurance all-road” bike. Yet these numbers would suggest the LC is actually more aggressive than the SuperSix. That doesn’t quite add up to me.
When I look at the LC size 56 instead (187–193 cm), the endurance label starts to make much more sense: similar reach, but noticeably higher stack. That geometry aligns far better with what I’d expect from an endurance-oriented frame.
The SuperSix rider height range matches my real-world fit perfectly and is also consistent with other manufacturers. So maybe LightCarbon’s height chart is technically correct, and I’m just being thrown off by the “endurance” label. Still, based on the geometry alone, the LC size 56 seems to fit that category much better.
Just sharing my thoughts. Curious how others see it.
-
Interesting they chose to spam "wind-tunnel optimized" everywhere in the product description.
Probably because Lambda Racing also presents it on their website https://www.lambda-racing.de/lambda-twin-force-road-gravel-rennrad as if the frame is wind tunnel optimized 🤦
-
I think there size recommendations are a little off. I always compare frames based on current bikes that I ride and I know fit me.
Compared to my trusty old Giant Defy in size M the LC frame in a 54 is 2mm more stack and 5mm more reach. Both stack and reach can easily be matched with spacers and stem length
Compared to my gravel bike, Velobuild GF-003 in size medium the LC frame in 54 has 13mm less stack and 1 mm more reach. The LC bars have 8mm of rise so the difference is only 5mm, easy to match with a spacer.
-
I think there size recommendations are a little off. I always compare frames based on current bikes that I ride and I know fit me.
Compared to my trusty old Giant Defy in size M the LC frame in a 54 is 2mm more stack and 5mm more reach. Both stack and reach can easily be matched with spacers and stem length
Compared to my gravel bike, Velobuild GF-003 in size medium the LC frame in 54 has 13mm less stack and 1 mm more reach. The LC bars have 8mm of rise so the difference is only 5mm, easy to match with a spacer.
The 18-D.
8mm rise for the bars and another 8 mm for the mandatory headset spacer. That’s +16mm which in turn moves the bar back by 7ish mm.
-
Interesting they chose to spam "wind-tunnel optimized" everywhere in the product description.
Does anyone here think this frame has been in a wind tunnel? I've seen nothing that suggests to me that it has. Also, I don't give a hoot.
-
Does anyone here think this frame has been in a wind tunnel? I've seen nothing that suggests to me that it has. Also, I don't give a hoot.
Yeah, I don't think anyone actually purchasing the frame believes it or cares.
-
Is it just me, or is their height-based sizing reference a bit… interesting? I get that it’s only a guideline and depends on body proportions and personal preference, but looking at the geometry, I’d personally size up one frame. Where they recommend a 54, I’d go 56; where they suggest 56, I’d choose 58, and so on.
For me it suits, i would take 50 and regards body size they table recommends 50.. most sizing tables from large brands however would give me one size to large.
-
I am building the bike up with a Force E1 2by setup. BB is a Rotor T4729 internal. Now I am struggling with the spacers. Sram Website says 3mm on the drivetrain side. Following these sram instructions there is a space so that the crank can move. The BB manual says 3.5mm on the none drivetrain side and 6mm on the drive train side. Following these rotor instructions it doesn’t seem to fit either.
Anyone any ideas? Trial an error? Something like 1.5mm NDS and 4mm DS should work…
Thanks for your help.
-
Is it?
Maybe.. I do have second thoughts now about the size I ordered. I went with a 56, but I’m 183 cm tall with an 88 cm inseam.
For reference, I've ridden a size 56 Cannondale SuperSix EVO (Gen 4), slammed with 110mm stem, which fitted me perfectly and has a rider height range of 177–185 cm. When I compare that bike to the LightCarbon size 54 (rated for 180–186 cm), the LC is actually about 6 mm lower in stack and 6 mm shorter in reach.
I know the SuperSix isn’t the most aggressive bike out there, but it’s still a proper race bike. The LC, on the other hand, is marketed as an “endurance all-road” bike. Yet these numbers would suggest the LC is actually more aggressive than the SuperSix. That doesn’t quite add up to me.
When I look at the LC size 56 instead (187–193 cm), the endurance label starts to make much more sense: similar reach, but noticeably higher stack. That geometry aligns far better with what I’d expect from an endurance-oriented frame.
The SuperSix rider height range matches my real-world fit perfectly and is also consistent with other manufacturers. So maybe LightCarbon’s height chart is technically correct, and I’m just being thrown off by the “endurance” label. Still, based on the geometry alone, the LC size 56 seems to fit that category much better.
Just sharing my thoughts. Curious how others see it.
I went with size 58 now after having consulted Gemini. With 40cm handlebar, 9cm stem, seatpost without setback and will go most probalby without any spacers or at least with the minimum. 8)
I'm 185cm with inseam 88cm.
Coming from TANTAN GR030 size 57 (gravel frame) as a 1x race bike with 28000km so far. Quite comfortable. Ok, not good looking due to 6cm spacers. ;D
-
I went with size 58 now after having consulted Gemini. With 40cm handlebar, 9cm stem, seatpost without setback and will go most probalby without any spacers or at least with the minimum. 8)
I'm 185cm with inseam 88cm.
Coming from TANTAN GR030 size 57 (gravel frame) as a 1x race bike with 28000km so far. Quite comfortable. Ok, not good looking due to 6cm spacers. ;D
I am also 185cm with 86cm inseam riding a size 58 lcr018-d for a few weeks now. I'm using a zero offset post, 120mm stem, and 20mm of spacers. I'm very comfortable on it so far, happy I didn't go with a 56. I like the long and high setup.
-
Are they still responsive in emails by this month of February? Emailed CHLOE for an update regarding about the delay end of January but no response yet. I think Lambda might affect the cause of delay because on their website they will start rolling March 2026 and to add up this Chinese New Year. All components are ready except a waiting game for the frame.
-
I am building the bike up with a Force E1 2by setup. BB is a Rotor T4729 internal. Now I am struggling with the spacers. Sram Website says 3mm on the drivetrain side. Following these sram instructions there is a space so that the crank can move. The BB manual says 3.5mm on the none drivetrain side and 6mm on the drive train side. Following these rotor instructions it doesn’t seem to fit either.
Anyone any ideas? Trial an error? Something like 1.5mm NDS and 4mm DS should work…
Thanks for your help.
Trial and error is your best bet, I'd do the same
-
Hello,
After placing an order for this frame I'm now looking for the differents parts to buy to built it. I have an issu about the front derailleur. So I'm going for a 105 or GRX one (it depend on the chain set i'll choose) and I can find only brand one. I've read that it must be a direct mount derailleur but my question is are the brazed one and direct mount one are actually sames ?
Thanks to all !
-
oilegorpines I received answers after few hours or one day. But I had a chat with Carol.
BTW:
22.12.2025 Ordered frame 58 rawcarbon glossy
23.12.2025 confirmation of payment [ try to use revolut and paypal [15usd fee instead 45], description below]
19.01.2026 - I sent them email about the status. Answer: 110x420 handlebar was out of stock, replaced with 120mm handlebars
21.01.2026: photos of the frame, replacing seatpost and few things
30.01.2026: received shipping number with DE postfix
10.02.2026: unboxing :)
If you have revolut card, transfer money from your main bank account to the revolut. Better conversion than bank->paypal, dont send money to paypal but add revolut card there. Then you can pay directly from revolut card, fee is 15usd instead of 45usd
-
does anyone else spotted those two frames, ( clearly,De Rosa and Colnago) on the latest video from Lightcarbon costume paint?
maybe an external factory where other brands are painted as well?
-
My frame is ready and already painted, but they told me that the straight seat posts are out of stock. What are the alternatives? Do i need to shorten drop-bar stem length to compensate so that they can ship my order right away?
-
does anyone else spotted those two frames, ( clearly,De Rosa and Colnago) on the latest video from Lightcarbon costume paint?
maybe an external factory where other brands are painted as well?
I requested before that if they can change some of the color of the frame from what i ordered, the reply is they can’t because it will cost them to pay because the paint bidding is already done. But still it’s changeable and you need to pay again fees. To answer your question IMO the paint is outsourced and they can paint any frames from different clients.
-
I have a question about the BB on the 18-D frame. I went to a bit of extra trouble to ensure I bought a BB that stated 85.5mm. Once I received the frame I measured the width of the frame at the BB and it's 85mm - not 85.5mm. Has anyone else found this, and does it really matter?
-
I am building the bike up with a Force E1 2by setup. BB is a Rotor T4729 internal. Now I am struggling with the spacers. Sram Website says 3mm on the drivetrain side. Following these sram instructions there is a space so that the crank can move. The BB manual says 3.5mm on the none drivetrain side and 6mm on the drive train side. Following these rotor instructions it doesn’t seem to fit either.
Anyone any ideas? Trial an error? Something like 1.5mm NDS and 4mm DS should work…
Thanks for your help.
I used the 3mm spacer on the drive side. Which gave me enough adjustment room on the non-drive side with the adjustment ring thing (not sure what the official name is) to set the correct preload.
I used the standard SRAM T47 bottom bracket. So not the same as your rotor. But since T47 85.5 should be the same. I think 3 or 3.5 should both work fine. Just try and see what fits best.
-
does anyone else spotted those two frames, ( clearly,De Rosa and Colnago) on the latest video from Lightcarbon costume paint?
maybe an external factory where other brands are painted as well?
I think I remember LC saying that they get their stuff painted externally
-
I've read that it must be a direct mount derailleur but my question is are the brazed one and direct mount one are actually sames ?
Yes, direct-mount and braze-on are the same thing. Good luck with your build!
-
Yes, direct-mount and braze-on are the same thing. Good luck with your build!
Thank you !
-
What?!
Who is Gavin - a sales rep?
This sounds absolutely crazy.
Sorry all - I was away from the board for a few days.
Gavin is the sales director, and the person in the MyBikeParts video tour.
I'm very happy that he shared the data so I could make the best decision for me. I do have some body asymmetry that might be creating an imbalance on some bikes and challenge bike stability in certain demanding situations. I hate to put too much blame on the bikes that other folks seem to ride without problems.
Gavin reported that the data in below table is an average number among many frames, so I expect that they tested various sizes. Here are the raw test results comparing a standard bike vs the two LCR018-D versions. Units of measurement are not reported, but I see from some references that N/mm are used to measure frame stiffness.
Model Head Tube Stiffness BB Stiffness
Standard 100 150
LCR018-D (No Downtube Storage) 117 185
LCR018-D (With Downtube Storage) 105 160
-
Sorry all - I was away from the board for a few days.
Gavin is the sales director, and the person in the MyBikeParts video tour.
I'm very happy that he shared the data so I could make the best decision for me. I do have some body asymmetry that might be creating an imbalance on some bikes and challenge bike stability in certain demanding situations. I hate to put too much blame on the bikes that other folks seem to ride without problems.
Gavin reported that the data in below table is an average number among many frames, so I expect that they tested various sizes. Here are the raw test results comparing a standard bike vs the two LCR018-D versions. Units of measurement are not reported, but I see from some references that N/mm are used to measure frame stiffness.
Model Head Tube Stiffness BB Stiffness
Standard 100 150
LCR018-D (No Downtube Storage) 117 185
LCR018-D (With Downtube Storage) 105 160
Edit: I was very curious to see how these numbers compare to other bikes. Without a reference it's speculation to how it would "feel" when riding one bike vs the other.
Less stiff, means more compliance. Maybe that's a good thing (more comfort, while still having an efficient and stable platform), maybe that's a bad thing (noodly feeling bike). Like often, it depends..
An article (https://www.cyclingabout.com/why-frame-stiffness-is-critical-in-understanding-ride-feel) from 2021 mentioned:
"Steering Stiffness – Head Tube Deflection (Average) - Carbon (56cm) – 97 N/mm"
"Pedalling Stiffness – Bottom Bracket Deflection (Average) - Carbon (56cm) – 62 N/mm"
"The data we’re looking at today comes from the legends at Tour Magazin in Germany.
They’ve developed a standardised static deflection test and have measured over 1,500 road and gravel bikes (all around the same size), giving us an excellent basis for comparing frame stiffness by material. I’ve kept a detailed record of almost every bike ever tested, which allows us to examine stiffness trends across different frame materials."
BB stiffness is so far off that I expect LightCarbon to use their own measuring standard or perhaps that they measure in N/degree or something.
At least from the headtube stiffness values of this test I'd say both versions (with or without storage) are perfectly fine.
-
I installed a SRAM Rival XPLR 2025 brake system and needed M5 screws.
However, there are also brake calipers with M6 screws; please check this on your bike yourself.
You needed washers with those 35mm titanium bolts, right? Mine stopped with a 1-2mm gap. I guess the bolts i checked from my canyon was 27mm, not 32mm, because these did not even reach the threads.
-
Trial and error is your best bet, I'd do the same
I used the 3mm spacer on the drive side. Which gave me enough adjustment room on the non-drive side with the adjustment ring thing (not sure what the official name is) to set the correct preload.
I used the standard SRAM T47 bottom bracket. So not the same as your rotor. But since T47 85.5 should be the same. I think 3 or 3.5 should both work fine. Just try and see what fits best.
Trial and error is your best bet, I'd do the same
Thanks, thorben and Hoogie. But I must admit that the BB manual with its 3.5mm on the none drivetrain side and 6mm on the drive train side didn’t lie. It seems to work fine. I still was able to use the adjustment ring a little bit. I’ll give another notice after finishing the build.
-
A new YT video on their stiffness testing.
https://youtu.be/61VoyEI4CPo?si=DCDFiyM6LeGm_qz1 (https://youtu.be/61VoyEI4CPo?si=DCDFiyM6LeGm_qz1)
-
They also published a short promo video.
Listen to the AI OG 90's gangsta hiphop song 🤣 that's hilarious
https://youtu.be/EkmgvH2dmtQ?si=ZuUfrKFT-HubXtZs
-
They also published a short promo video.
Listen to the AI OG 90's gangsta hiphop song 🤣 that's hilarious
https://youtu.be/EkmgvH2dmtQ?si=ZuUfrKFT-HubXtZs
;D ;D ;D Pac is alive and well
-
Can a made to order bag with a length of 11” fit inside the frame storage? I have this Topeak pump Roadie Dax 10.3” in length never fails me so i need to carry it during rides still using TPU tubes. Thanks
-
Can a made to order bag with a length of 11” fit inside the frame storage? I have this Topeak pump Roadie Dax 10.3” in length never fails me so i need to carry it during rides still using TPU tubes. Thanks
AFAIK there is only one type of bag, you could order and fit 2 of those. In theory, there is enough space for a long pump, BUT it's not easy to get long things into it, because of the angle, it will get wedged, also depends on the diameter of your pump. For example a full bag with a small stiff mini pump is very hard to fiddle inside already (Length: About 22.5 CM, Diameter: About 3 CM), this kind of pump just fits one bag and is in my downtube storage at the moment (the Manometer is beyond useless, otherwise works great).
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c4lHiLIX
-
Can a made to order bag with a length of 11” fit inside the frame storage? I have this Topeak pump Roadie Dax 10.3” in length never fails me so i need to carry it during rides still using TPU tubes. Thanks
I just fitting a 12" ruler in and it went in without trouble or interference of the BB.
However, as mentioned, it may depend on the width of your pump. My ruler is flat (2D shape).
-
I am also 185cm with 86cm inseam riding a size 58 lcr018-d for a few weeks now. I'm using a zero offset post, 120mm stem, and 20mm of spacers. I'm very comfortable on it so far, happy I didn't go with a 56. I like the long and high setup.
I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58. I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out. Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)
I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.
That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good. The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach. The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.
So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option. Open to hearing opinions.
-
I’m not sure which is the right option. Open to hearing opinions.
https://www.myvelofit.com/
-
I just got informed by Carol that the price of the Lcr018 will increase next week. For anyone currently thinking about getting a frame now would be the time to save a few $ (don’t know how much).
-
I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58. I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out. Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)
I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.
That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good. The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach. The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.
So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option. Open to hearing opinions.
Imo you should pick the size 54, im 174cm but i picked the size 50 and there still lot of room for the seat post adjustment to raise.
-
I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58. I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out. Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)
I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.
That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good. The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach. The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.
So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option. Open to hearing opinions.
My approach was to try and match the reach and stack of my previous bike using bike-stats.de and make sure to align the bb of the two bikes together for comparison. My previous bike was lower and shorter without considering stem length and headset spacers, so I went with a little longer stem on the lcr018-d (110mm to 120m and about 10mm higher stack (which was actually less spacers overall). I also factored in a zero offset seat post for the lcr018-d because I always felt like I was pedaling too far back from the bb in my old bike.
I did have a bike fit on my previous bike, so I was pretty confident that the 58 lcr018-d was right for me. I'm pretty flexible and my lcr018-d feels a bit better to me fit-wise.
-
https://www.myvelofit.com/
Did you try this?
Looks like a great gift for my birthday from my partner ;D
-
Did you try this?
Looks like a great gift for my birthday from my partner ;D
I build bikes for a team and various clients. It’s an easy way to get a base line or confirm changes for those who aren’t sure what size etc.
They have a free version which is pretty basic but far better than the general guessing I see going on repeatedly on this thread.
I have no clue why so many people on here put so little effort into choosing the correct frame size. It’s lazy.
The whole hight and inseam measurements are just bullshit for finding the correct size frame.
-
I am about to pull the trigger but and going back and forth between the 56 and the 58. I have a velobuild 168 in the 58 and I had to use a 90cm stem and feel a little stretched out. Looking at the geometry the LC in 58 is about the same (9mm reach difference) but higher stack (about 25mm). The 56 is kind of the opposite oddly enough with a close stack height (6mm difference higher) to the 168 but bigger difference in reach (16mm shorter)
I’m 187cm with 86cm inseam.
That said, my flexibility is kinda crap in that I cannot touch my toes. I have the gravel Planet X Tempest in L with an 100mm stem and feels good. The LC in 56 is damn near the same stack and reach. The LC in 58 is pretty much the same reach but has an 18mm higher stack.
So, for an endurance bike I’m not sure which is the right option. Open to hearing opinions.
I have 82 inseam at 183cm height.
And I decided to go with size 52 (instead 54)
I wonder, if your drop could be negative at 58.
-
My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?
-
I build bikes for a team and various clients. It’s an easy way to get a base line or confirm changes for those who aren’t sure what size etc.
They have a free version which is pretty basic but far better than the general guessing I see going on repeatedly on this thread.
I have no clue why so many people on here put so little effort into choosing the correct frame size. It’s lazy.
The whole hight and inseam measurements are just bullshit for finding the correct size frame.
I agree and thanks for the info.
My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?
Did you checked of there is some clear coat on the mounting point? I had some on them and used a file and sandpaper to make it even and clean.
-
So, I'm finally done 😄
And yes, I've gone in a completely different direction than everyone else I've seen so far 😉
-LightCarbon LCR-018 frame, size 50, raw carbon matte finish
-LightCarbon HBR17 handlebars, 380/90mm
-XMCS 50/36/28 wheelset with Sapim CX-Ray spokes and In-House hubs
-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant
-SRAM Rival XPLR derailleur, brakes, grips, cassette, and chain
-SRAM bottom bracket DUB Wide T47 / 85.5
-SRAM Red Dub Wide crankset, 165mm, with Raketa Components 46t chainring
-Chaser Ultra Light brake rotors, 160mm/140mm, with Absolute Black Center Lock rings
-Ryet Ultimate Carbon saddle
-Wolf Tooth LoneWolf Aero Chainguide from Rose BACKROAD FF
-Wolf Tooth del Gravel Pedals
-Elite Leggero Carbon Bottle Cage
-SYNCROS Handlebar Tape RC Dark Grey
The bike weighs 7.83 kg as pictured, complete with pedals, bottle cages, and tubeless sealant 😎
I’d like to order this frame as well. Could you also tell me what your saddle height is? I’m trying to decide between a size 50 or 52 too, and I’m trying to understand how much seatpost would be exposed. My saddle height is around 70–71 cm.
Did you put a 40 mm tire in the rear because a 45 mm doesn’t fit?
I’m also trying to figure out which gravel wheels currently offer the best value for money, with an internal rim width of at least 24 mm — someone does have any wheel recommendations?
-
I also (finally) finished my build this week and am happy with the process and result. Thanks to the community for the helpful tips (including the 3D-printed Varia mount).
For reference, I am 187 cm tall and chose the 56 frame with 120 mm/36 mm. I still need to fine-tune the position a little.
I chose the frame in gloss raw carbon (with my own deals) and a ceramic coating finish. Other special details include a Bikone bottom bracket and SLT headset (I installed the spacer). Paired with ZEN Wheels, Sram Rival XPLR, and a Rotor crank with a Power2max PM. I want to use the bike as a commuter and winter all-rounder. The first few kilometers will show how it performs in this usage area.
I look forward to your feedback.
-
So, I'm finally done 😄
-Schwalbe G-One R Pro tires, 45mm front and 40mm rear, tubeless mounted with Orange Seal Endurance Sealant
I thought it was a 38mm tire clearance? You fit 45?
-
https://youtu.be/5W_HZAQXAoQ?si=rB_v2coY9ONr58jl
This is with mounting paste applied but not tightened. I’m not sure I’m comfortable with the message from Jim to tighten to 10nm to hold this in place. The clamping mechanism is not meant to hold the seat post in place in all axis, is it? Just to hold the position up and down..
-
... a Rotor crank ...
Can you please post a link of the crank you have installed.
-
I thought it was a 38mm tire clearance? You fit 45?
The front tire fits 45mm without tread, and the rear 40mm.
I had Schwalbe R Pro 45 and 40mm tires mounted for testing and have now replaced them with Schwalbe RS Pro in 35mm and 40mm.
The 35mm tire is actually about 38mm wide on my frame, and the 40mm is 41.5mm wide, which provides a bit more clearance.
-
I’d like to order this frame as well. Could you also tell me what your saddle height is? I’m trying to decide between a size 50 or 52 too, and I’m trying to understand how much seatpost would be exposed. My saddle height is around 70–71 cm.
Did you put a 40 mm tire in the rear because a 45 mm doesn’t fit?
I’m also trying to figure out which gravel wheels currently offer the best value for money, with an internal rim width of at least 24 mm — someone does have any wheel recommendations?
My saddle height is 69cm, as shown in the photo, and I had to shorten the seatpost to accommodate it.
A 45mm tire fits in the front (without tread) and a 40mm in the rear. I initially tried Schwalbe R Pro tires in sizes 45 and 40mm, but have now switched to Schwalbe RS Pro tires in 35mm and 40mm. The 35mm tire measures approximately 38mm in real-world use, and the 40mm tire measures 41.5mm, which provides a bit more clearance in the frame.
-
My rear brake mounts are crooked. Centering the calliper and before fully tightening the bolts I can see almost a mm bigger difference on the side towards the wheel which results in the rotor always rubbing hard on the left side.
Any home fixes for this or should I find a bike shop with a facing tool?
I had the same, caliper leaning right (looking from behind) when tightening beyond 2-3nm to the suggested 5nm (so last bit of tightening). I fixed it myself, but probably not the recommended way.
I checked with a (aluminium, straght) ruler, took a hobby knife and very carefully shaved off (really lightly shave, make sure to keep the knife flat, no hard cuts!) the paint/clear coat overspray layer by layer, checking with the caliper in between shaves to see improvement. I only did it myself because it was very obvious where the high spots where (you could see the paint on the brake mount after tightening), so I had a very good idea of where to shave off bits.
Took me 2-3 hours but now it's straight enough that I can tighten without it rubbing.
While this worked, if I had known an address near me that does facing, would probably have gone there :-X
-
Can someone tell me why this tool doesn't fit?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004922574786.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.decb1802BhaJCX&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
in combination with
https://www.bike24.com/p2388529.html ?
Isn't T47 = T47?
:-\
And will I need to use the 3mm spacer for a none-wide SRAM RED crank on this frame? If yes, where? Drive-side or non-drive-side?
Update: Ahh, just saw it here: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf I have to use it as "Outer right, drive side spacer".
-
Can someone tell me why this tool doesn't fit?
Isn't T47 = T47?
T47 isn’t a standard. There are different diameters and spline combinations depending on the brand.
Google for what’s compatible with your SRAM DUB T47. I personally use a Park Tool BBT-47-16.
-
Can you please post a link of the crank you have installed.
I chose this crank, but mainly because I wanted to continue using the power meter.
With the offset axle, the chainline matches the Sram XPLR.
https://rotorbike.com/ge-de/ns24-shimano-grx-compatible-crankset.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19559025750&gbraid=0AAAAApEuGda43zgCQmjH9M_E4Hf9ageJr&gclid=CjwKCAiA-sXMBhAOEiwAGGw6LNB08Ff3HTbKA9Q_LlqK6HWx4BIUXcC5FCa5zVkyXDteNfpUqYTsChoCUAUQAvD_BwE (https://rotorbike.com/ge-de/ns24-shimano-grx-compatible-crankset.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19559025750&gbraid=0AAAAApEuGda43zgCQmjH9M_E4Hf9ageJr&gclid=CjwKCAiA-sXMBhAOEiwAGGw6LNB08Ff3HTbKA9Q_LlqK6HWx4BIUXcC5FCa5zVkyXDteNfpUqYTsChoCUAUQAvD_BwE)
-
I have 82 inseam at 183cm height.
And I decided to go with size 52 (instead 54)
I wonder, if your drop could be negative at 58.
Can you share a picture of your complete build?
What stem length did you mount?
-
Can someone please share the link for the 3d printed Garmin holder for the seatpost.
-
chubv: File for Varia mount is on page 71 in this thread.
If you are interested file for a bit shorter garmin handlebar mount is on page 73.
I dont know how o make those files a bit more visible for everyone who may want them, I was thinking put them on printabels or thingeverse or something, but i dont know if that would be any better.
-
chubv: File for Varia mount is on page 71 in this thread.
If you are interested file for a bit shorter garmin handlebar mount is on page 73.
I dont know how o make those files a bit more visible for everyone who may want them, I was thinking put them on printabels or thingeverse or something, but i dont know if that would be any better.
Thanks!
-
Frame is ready size 50, but no available zero offset seat post as of the moment and its Chinese NewYear so maybe mid march all things are prepared for shipping.
-
i cut the front brake line a bit short do you think i should redo this? im reluctant to do it since its such a shitty job, maybe i could get a shop to do it with those zeno quick connect hoses hambini covered recently
did a 100km ride last weekend, the bike itself is nice to ride but im running out of patience with erx
-
Some insights on zeno q-link, just one person but problems with both versions is still a bit alarming?
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,6975.0.html
-
Tried my bike today. All good. 7.0kg with one side missing bartape. Could easily get to 6.8 with normal tires. These are the TLR RS 35mm at a disappointing 405g each. 35g more then advertised.
-
kjerts: That looks pretty awesome, nice build. Do you have measure caliper at home, can you measure those prirellis real width?
-
Kroser: I will measure again after these couple hours of rolling. They where only 34mm right after mounting on the IW26mm XMCS wheels..That's about the same as 32mm GP5000 STR that has been rolling for a while.
-
I hope this question hasen't already been settled in the past 100 pages of this thread but I am curious if anyone has successfully used a non-proprietary stem/headset on this frame?
-
i just compared the frame geo to my old super six evo and just for fun used the cannondale synapse carbon and saw that the geometry is nearly identical. kinda interesting
just fyi
are there any other comparable of the shelf bikes in terms of geo? i want it to fit like a glove and therefore hopefully ride some bikes which specs i could transfer to the lcr018d and build it up.
-
Bar Tape still missing. Everythig else works fine. Wheels LightCarbon. Size 54.
Edit:
LCR018-D UD 54 black matte finished without logo, storage
Cockpit: HBR17 (380x100mm)
Wheelset: C67DB-BRD28-55C-CS2 Butterfly wave matte finish without logo
Bottle Cages:LightCarbon BC205-UD-M
BB: Rotor T4729 BB - Intern - T47-85.5/86.5/89.5/92-DUB
Sram Force E1 48/36 with Powermeter 10-36t
160mm Brake rotors
Conti GP 5000 32mm
Some AliExpress TPU Tube
Saddle: SD01 LightCarbon
LOOK X-Track Race Carbon Ti Pedal
7,7kg as seen on the foto with pedals and bottle cages
I am 178cm
-
i just compared the frame geo to my old super six evo and just for fun used the cannondale synapse carbon and saw that the geometry is nearly identical. kinda interesting
just fyi
are there any other comparable of the shelf bikes in terms of geo? i want it to fit like a glove and therefore hopefully ride some bikes which specs i could transfer to the lcr018d and build it up.
So it was close to your Synapse? What year?
-
are there any other comparable of the shelf bikes in terms of geo? i want it to fit like a glove and therefore hopefully ride some bikes which specs i could transfer to the lcr018d and build it up.
Check out https://geometrygeeks.bike/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/) you can select a bike and them it will create a list of others with similar geometry.
-
Bar Tape still missing. Everythig else works fine. Wheels LightCarbon. Size 54.
Sweet ride Mate *****
Weight and Specs
Soon will get mine hope still this week same size diferent color and specs
-
I also (finally) finished my build this week and am happy with the process and result. Thanks to the community for the helpful tips (including the 3D-printed Varia mount).
For reference, I am 187 cm tall and chose the 56 frame with 120 mm/36 mm. I still need to fine-tune the position a little.
I chose the frame in gloss raw carbon (with my own deals) and a ceramic coating finish. Other special details include a Bikone bottom bracket and SLT headset (I installed the spacer). Paired with ZEN Wheels, Sram Rival XPLR, and a Rotor crank with a Power2max PM. I want to use the bike as a commuter and winter all-rounder. The first few kilometers will show how it performs in this usage area.
I look forward to your feedback.
What size/model are those Shawl tires?
-
Bar Tape still missing. Everythig else works fine. Wheels LightCarbon. Size 54.
So nice! Please add specifications, weight, etc. and more photos! :D
-
are there any other comparable of the shelf bikes in terms of geo? i want it to fit like a glove and therefore hopefully ride some bikes which specs i could transfer to the lcr018d and build it up.
Size 56
Frame Stack Reach HTA STA CS BB
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
LightCarbon LCR018D 580 387 72.5° 73.7° 415 77
Cervelo Caledonia. 580 387 72° 73° 415 74
BMC Roadmachine 586 390 72° 74.2° 410 71
Giant Defy Advanced 577 384 72° 73.5° 420 75
Trek Domane Gen4 591 386 71.9° 73.5° 420 78
Please note that the number of spacers under the steam can significantly change the character of the frame. The reference values apply to the absence of spacers. Without spacers, Lightcarbon actually has a stack of +16 mm (8 mm spacer under the steam and 8 mm rise on the handlebars).
-
Sweet ride Mate *****
Weight and Specs
Soon will get mine hope still this week same size diferent color and specs
So nice! Please add specifications, weight, etc. and more photos! :D
Added Specs and weight.
-
https://youtu.be/5W_HZAQXAoQ?si=rB_v2coY9ONr58jl
This is with mounting paste applied but not tightened. I’m not sure I’m comfortable with the message from Jim to tighten to 10nm to hold this in place. The clamping mechanism is not meant to hold the seat post in place in all axis, is it? Just to hold the position up and down..
Well, it did not get tight with carbon paste and tightening to 10Nm, as Jim suggested. Hoping the problem is with the diameter of the seatpost, not the frame. Not sure how we will solve this one..
https://youtube.com/shorts/o7ee1dDuork
-
Well, it did not get tight with carbon paste and tightening to 10Nm, as Jim suggested. Hoping the problem is with the diameter of the seatpost, not the frame. Not sure how we will solve this one..
https://youtube.com/shorts/o7ee1dDuork
Weird AF
Are you sure its the seatpost and not the sadle or the seatpost clamp, you can remove the sadle to check if it make clap sound.
-
Weird AF
Are you sure its the seatpost and not the sadle or the seatpost clamp, you can remove the sadle to check if it make clap sound.
That's why I'm holding the seatpost for the second sound. The same sound is also there when i release the tension on the seat post clamp.. It's not the saddle. But I can remove it just to make it clear. It would be very strange if there was an adjustable tension in the saddle area that could be triggered with a nudge in the seat post.
-
That's why I'm holding the seatpost for the second sound. The same sound is also there when i release the tension on the seat post clamp.. It's not the saddle. But I can remove it just to make it clear. It would be very strange if there was an adjustable tension in the saddle area that could be triggered with a nudge in the seat post.
You can probably make a shim for the seatpost with a coke bottle, but Jim is ultimately responsible for addressing this.
His fix didn’t work so something is wrong somewhere. Either the post diameter or the seat tube internal diameter. (obviously you know this already)
Take a look down the seat tube and see if the walls look flat and even.
I think you’ll need to wait for Jim to come back from NY vacation
-
That's why I'm holding the seatpost for the second sound. The same sound is also there when i release the tension on the seat post clamp.. It's not the saddle. But I can remove it just to make it clear. It would be very strange if there was an adjustable tension in the saddle area that could be triggered with a nudge in the seat post.
IT makes sense, and i could agree with you, but i have seen weird shit in bikes, any way nothing to loose in testing
If i´m right easy to change sadle than seatpost or worst a frame
-
Apparently Trace Velo has a fix for this issue using polythene packaging material as a shim wrapped around the seatpost.
-
Apparently Trace Velo has a fix for this issue using polythene packaging material as a shim wrapped around the seatpost.
Yeah...no.
If this is my bike, LC makes this right. No "hack or bodge" for a brand new frame and proprietary seatpost.
I'm planning to order a LCR018-D as a frame upgrade for an existing road bike as soon as SRAM Force E1 Exchange Kits become available at the end of March. That gives me time to decide not to do this, and I'm paying close attention to LC QC and customer support.
-
A few pages back we saw the number for headtube and BB stiffness.
Model Head Tube Stiffness BB Stiffness
LCR018-D (No Downtube Storage) 117 185
LCR018-D (With Downtube Storage) 105 160
The Supersix was released today and they included the following
(https://i.postimg.cc/tR8b2FKP/IMG-6549.jpg)
-
Yeah...no.
If this is my bike, LC makes this right. No "hack or bodge" for a brand new frame and proprietary seatpost.
I'm planning to order a LCR018-D as a frame upgrade for an existing road bike as soon as SRAM Force E1 Exchange Kits become available at the end of March. That gives me time to decide not to do this, and I'm paying close attention to LC QC and customer support.
Looks like a problem in QC for that specific order, but if some finished orders also experiencing that particular problem and this is the time everybody should worry.
-
A few pages back we saw the number for headtube and BB stiffness.
Model Head Tube Stiffness BB Stiffness
LCR018-D (No Downtube Storage) 117 185
LCR018-D (With Downtube Storage) 105 160
The Supersix was released today and they included the following
(https://i.postimg.cc/tR8b2FKP/IMG-6549.jpg)
Interesting. I’m taking a few things away from this:
1. Cannondale is using Nm/deg for head tube stiffness and N/mm for BB stiffness -> they’re testing torsional stiffness at the head tube and lateral stiffness at the bottom bracket.
2. The significant difference in absolute values compared to LC strongly suggests that Cannondale is using a different testing protocol, especially for the BB. The head tube test could be similar, but without fixture details we can’t be sure. Given that the Cannondale frame is quite a bit lighter, lower stiffness values would not be unexpected.
3. We still don’t really know what the LC values are telling us, since the unit of measure and test definition are not known.
-
Interesting. I’m taking a few things away from this:
1. Cannondale is using Nm/deg for head tube stiffness and N/mm for BB stiffness -> they’re testing torsional stiffness at the head tube and lateral stiffness at the bottom bracket.
2. The significant difference in absolute values compared to LC strongly suggests that Cannondale is using a different testing protocol, especially for the BB. The head tube test could be similar, but without fixture details we can’t be sure. Given that the Cannondale frame is quite a bit lighter, lower stiffness values would not be unexpected.
3. We still don’t really know what the LC values are telling us, since the unit of measure and test definition are not known.
I absolutely agree with you.
I’m just trying to keep the topic current and hopefully fill in any blanks when new data is made available.
-
Does anyone know what is the price of just the HBR017 handlebar?
-
Does anyone know what is the price of just the HBR017 handlebar?
About 128usd plus delivery
-
What size/model are those Shawl tires?
They are Schwalbe One 365 winter tires in 32 mm with RideNow TPU tube setup. They offer slightly more puncture protection and good wet weather performance, and have reflective sidewalls for the dark season. However, they are not fast, so I will switch to Pirelli PZero in 32 or 35 mm for the summer.
-
Regarding the discussion of stiffness measurements: German Roadbike magazine just measured some Chinese bikes for the first time (Seka Spear, Tavelo Arrow, Winspace Milemaster M6) and added Rose Xlite for comparison. I added the values of the LCR018 as found in this thread.
| Model | Head Tube Stiffness | BB Stiffness |
| LCR018-D (no storage) | 117 | 185 |
| Rose Xlite | 81 | 114 |
| Winspace Milemaster M6 | 79 | 109 |
| Tavelo Arrow | 66 | 90 |
| Seka Spear | 48 | 64 |
So, for me it is clear, I agree to NB87: different testing protocol, we don't really know what the LC values are telling us.
-
I think the conclusion is only partially correct — LightCarbon does actually publish parts of their testing protocol:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/testing-process_n23
From that page we know their stiffness tests are based on lateral deflection under load (N/mm), with defined lever arms (~250 mm head tube, ~260 mm BB) and minimum thresholds (100 N/mm head / 120 N/mm BB).
So the values are grounded in real structural testing — not purely marketing.
However, direct comparison with Roadbike magazine (or other labs) is still problematic because stiffness numbers depend heavily on fixture design, load position, and measurement method. Even using the same unit, different protocols can produce very different absolute values.
Most likely the published LC figures (117 / 185) are normalized indices derived from internal N/mm measurements — useful for comparing LC frames internally, but not 1:1 vs other brands.
-
I agree, Abreu.T, very valid. I did not want to make the point that LightCarbon pulls the values out of thin air, just that they are not useful for a direct comparison to other brands. And that is of course what we would like.
-
54cm frame - 18.5lbs/8.4kg with computer, radar, tools/tubes/CO2 ready to roll. 17.3lbs/7.8kg without tools/comp/radar
Force E1 2x setup with Magene Teo power meter crank, Zen wheels (45/55)
-
Do we know the maximum system weight for the frame?
-
I wanted to use a ZTTO 12 speed 11-36 cassette for my build but I saw this video yesterday from TraceVelo.
https://youtu.be/TntiPaBOapE
Are there any alternatives? 12 speed 11-36 HG?
-
I wanted to use a ZTTO 12 speed 11-36 cassette for my build but I saw this video yesterday from TraceVelo.
https://youtu.be/TntiPaBOapE
Are there any alternatives? 12 speed 11-36 HG?
uhhhmm doens't look good.
I have that one with 11-speed and it looks like they just added one more gear with the same structure to the cassette on the 12-speed one.
On the 11-speed one, only the biggest one is connect with the small 2,5mm² pillars.
-
I wanted to use a ZTTO 12 speed 11-36 cassette for my build but I saw this video yesterday from TraceVelo.
https://youtu.be/TntiPaBOapE
Are there any alternatives? 12 speed 11-36 HG?
Goldix ULT steel cassette. Works like a charm. Those ztto with aluminum cogs are crap
-
I wanted to use a ZTTO 12 speed 11-36 cassette for my build but I saw this video yesterday from TraceVelo.
https://youtu.be/TntiPaBOapE
Are there any alternatives? 12 speed 11-36 HG?
Just use one piece steel cassettes. Aluminium for cassettes is crap and not worth weight savings anyways.
-
Ordered a 52cm a few days ago. What's the recommended tool for BB install? I ordered the ceramic BB option with the frame.
-
**Frame arrived Yesterday
Packaging was on point and the paint looks incredible in person.
Tomorrow the build begins 🔧🔥**
-
Tried my bike today. All good. 7.0kg with one side missing bartape. Could easily get to 6.8 with normal tires. These are the TLR RS 35mm at a disappointing 405g each. 35g more then advertised.
Very nice! But i need to ask, how did you manage to get a weight of just 7kg? I think the frame is quite heavy with 1100gr in size 52, which I ordered last week! But looking forward to it
-
Very nice! But i need to ask, how did you manage to get a weight of just 7kg? I think the frame is quite heavy with 1100gr in size 52, which I ordered last week! But looking forward to it
960g in 47cm without storage (so not +50g for the hatch)
Force E1 group /RED 10-33 and RED 160mm crank
20g cut seatpost to get it low enough
40g cut steerer
1100g XMCS wheels
190g Look keo w/ titanium splines.
110 Ryet saddle
2x405g pirelli p-zero rs 35mm
2x36g tpu. Will go tubeless later
Jim has gotten the measurements of the loose seatpost and will check when Chinese New Year is over. I doubt that the outside of the seatpost is the most plausible fault. Inside of frame will vary more if there is too little resin I guess. The noise disappeared with a film of plastic from the sram groupset, but it’s not a good enough solution.
-
It appears that well-known Chinese frames such as the seka are like a noodle in terms of stiffness compared to, for example, Rose and probably also Canyon, etc.
Regarding the discussion of stiffness measurements: German Roadbike magazine just measured some Chinese bikes for the first time (Seka Spear, Tavelo Arrow, Winspace Milemaster M6) and added Rose Xlite for comparison. I added the values of the LCR018 as found in this thread.
| Model | Head Tube Stiffness | BB Stiffness |
| LCR018-D (no storage) | 117 | 185 |
| Rose Xlite | 81 | 114 |
| Winspace Milemaster M6 | 79 | 109 |
| Tavelo Arrow | 66 | 90 |
| Seka Spear | 48 | 64 |
So, for me it is clear, I agree to NB87: different testing protocol, we don't really know what the LC values are telling us.
[/quote
-
960g in 47cm without storage (so not +50g for the hatch)
Force E1 group /RED 10-33 and RED 160mm crank
20g cut seatpost to get it low enough
40g cut steerer
1100g XMCS wheels
190g Look keo w/ titanium splines.
110 Ryet saddle
2x405g pirelli p-zero rs 35mm
2x36g tpu. Will go tubeless later
Jim has gotten the measurements of the loose seatpost and will check when Chinese New Year is over. I doubt that the outside of the seatpost is the most plausible fault. Inside of frame will vary more if there is too little resin I guess. The noise disappeared with a film of plastic from the sram groupset, but it’s not a good enough solution.
Damm you totaly right, mine is a 54 with downtube storage the panel is metal so its on heavy side.
weight:
54, painted with downtube storage (hatch door on) and axel inserted.
-
Regarding the discussion of stiffness measurements: German Roadbike magazine just measured some Chinese bikes for the first time (Seka Spear, Tavelo Arrow, Winspace Milemaster M6) and added Rose Xlite for comparison. I added the values of the LCR018 as found in this thread.
| Model | Head Tube Stiffness | BB Stiffness |
| LCR018-D (no storage) | 117 | 185 |
| Rose Xlite | 81 | 114 |
| Winspace Milemaster M6 | 79 | 109 |
| Tavelo Arrow | 66 | 90 |
| Seka Spear | 48 | 64 |
So, for me it is clear, I agree to NB87: different testing protocol, we don't really know what the LC values are telling us.
As if a magazine that mainly depends on advertizing and major brands sending them stuff for testing will run any unbiased tests on any direct-to-consumer Chinese parts. Let‘s not be naive…
And let‘s not forget that half of all comparative testing is won by Canyon bikes, all of which I‘ve had in my workshop are just utter crap.
-
As if a magazine that mainly depends on advertizing and major brands sending them stuff for testing will run any unbiased tests on any direct-to-consumer Chinese parts. Let‘s not be naive…
And let‘s not forget that half of all comparative testing is won by Canyon bikes, all of which I‘ve had in my workshop are just utter crap.
Two things: While its plausible that an entity that depends on advertising could be biased towards its advertisers, that plausibility is not evidence that they are.
Secondly, whether they print fabricated data to the benefit of their advertisers or not, where is the logic that suggests that this would have any impact on the comparative data across brands that don't purchase advertising from them?
-
Hello everyone,
A question for the happy LCR018-D owners. I have seen in the LC website that the thruaxles remains "flushed" with the frame surface. Are the thruaxles a proprietary design of LC or it is possible to use a standard thruaxle in the frame?
Thanks in advance.
-
I looked everywhere for replacement axels, but could not find any the same. They have a different thread pitch from front to rear which, I thought, was odd. Anyway, the axels provided seem good quality and lightweight so I am happy not to keep them.
-
Two things: While its plausible that an entity that depends on advertising could be biased towards its advertisers, that plausibility is not evidence that they are.
Secondly, whether they print fabricated data to the benefit of their advertisers or not, where is the logic that suggests that this would have any impact on the comparative data across brands that don't purchase advertising from them?
It is called „human common sense“…
-
I looked everywhere for replacement axels, but could not find any the same. They have a different thread pitch from front to rear which, I thought, was odd. Anyway, the axels provided seem good quality and lightweight so I am happy not to keep them.
It's true that is not a part that need replacement, but... what happens if you destroy or lost it? Need to ask LC for a replacement... I think that it will be better it the axles where a standard part.
-
Imo you should pick the size 54, im 174cm but i picked the size 50 and there still lot of room for the seat post adjustment to raise.
What is your inseam where you selected the size 50? Also did you select any seatpost offset and what length stem did you choose?
I'm pulling the trigger on the size 50 as well with 170.2 cm height and inseam of 76 cm. I'm concerned however the stack won't be high enough relative to the size 52, but the standover on the 52 is a bit tight.
-
As if a magazine that mainly depends on advertizing and major brands sending them stuff for testing will run any unbiased tests on any direct-to-consumer Chinese parts. Let‘s not be naive…
And let‘s not forget that half of all comparative testing is won by Canyon bikes, all of which I‘ve had in my workshop are just utter crap.
It's stated that the numbers from that magazine come from a measurement. So what you're suggesting as "human common sense" is that we can basically conclude that they're manipulating the numbers to have their sponsored brands come out on top.
Quite a statement.
It's a bit like the people concluding that Pogi is doing epo because he's faster.
I agree with jstrawks. Just because it's plausible, doesn't mean it's true.
-
Finally took the bike off the Zwift trainer for the first outdoor ride of the season! The bike feels great, especially with the 35mm Michelin Pro 5 tires—super comfortable. I think it weighs around 7.6 Kg
I have to say, the clamping system on this zero-offset post isn't designed very well. It’s almost impossible to get a 4mm Allen key properly into the bolt. Even with an extension on my torque wrench and a piece of cardboard to protect the seatpost, the bolt head strips easily. That’s exactly what happened on one side. So, now I’m looking for a replacement black hex bolt. Does anyone have a tip for one that fits?
-
Finally took the bike off the Zwift trainer for the first outdoor ride of the season! The bike feels great, especially with the 35mm Michelin Pro 5 tires—super comfortable. I think it weighs around 7.6 Kg
I have to say, the clamping system on this zero-offset post isn't designed very well. It’s almost impossible to get a 4mm Allen key properly into the bolt. Even with an extension on my torque wrench and a piece of cardboard to protect the seatpost, the bolt head strips easily. That’s exactly what happened on one side. So, now I’m looking for a replacement black hex bolt. Does anyone have a tip for one that fits?
Nice paint Design.
Agree with the seatport clamp bolts, glad my allen keys have torque ball end for the inicial torque.
Hope mine is finish today
-
I received my frame today and I'm wondering about the spacer that is included.
As you can probably understand from this question, I'm not a professional bike mechanic ;D
Anyone can tell where this spacer should be placed?
-
This frame uses proprietary thru axles? Are you kidding me?
-
I received my frame today and I'm wondering about the spacer that is included.
This is probably a spacer for different headset spacers/cockpit. You might already have one installed on bike and it's just a different height, for future compatibility.
This frame uses proprietary thru axles? Are you kidding me?
I doubt that. On the other hand - there is no real standard in through axles, manufacturers can pick widths, pitch heights and interfaces.
-
Funny question, I just asked the axle specs from LC as I am in the process of placing my order.
This post includes photos that show the axle specs.
-
I received my frame today and I'm wondering about the spacer that is included.
As you can probably understand from this question, I'm not a professional bike mechanic ;D
Anyone can tell where this spacer should be placed?
From prevous discussions on this thread, I think the conclusion is that it is needed sometimes - depending on paint film thickness on the frame. Try a 'dry' build with handlebars torqued down and then examin the gap at the top of the head tube. Make a judgement wheather to use the spacer based on the gap you see. When I tried this without the spacer there was a slight rub when turning the handlebar, so I put the spacer in and now it's perfect.
-
This frame uses proprietary thru axles? Are you kidding me?
Like mention before:
The axles are included with the frame and they're quite light. Unfortunately, you won't find a lighter alternative that fits well 😬
you can use other but care about the "Countersunk design for the thru-axle head"
NOTE: dont see it as a problem, i had 4 diferent bikes each one have its own design and never fucked up a axle (only 1/4 of my bikes have a flat head )
Quoted:"- there is no real standard in through axles, manufacturers can pick widths, pitch heights and interfaces."
Agree
Photos from the previous post.
-
BMC use a similar/ same design. It’s really not a problem.
They’re decently light so changing them for weight loss is kinda pointless unless you’ve taken every last gram out of the other components, and yourself.
-
BMC use a similar/ same design. It’s really not a problem.
They’re decently light so changing them for weight loss is kinda pointless unless you’ve taken every last gram out of the other components, and yourself.
Shhhh, stop that! ;)
Don't make me second guess the 2g for titanium shift clamp bolts was useless when I have more than a few KG I could lose. Everyone asks bike weight not bike/rider weight, so it is not pointless. haha
-
Is LC's stock rear thru axle for their hanger attached to the UDH mount compatible with direct mount derailleurs?
-
Does anyone have a idea or webshop where I can get a good replacement bolt for the zero offset seat post saddle clamp. Preferably a torx one. That might last longer with the worse angle for the torque wrench.
-
Lightcarbon indicated that size 54 frames would be the first size run after the Chinese New Year.
So your new 54 orders might be produced quickly.
-
Does anyone have a idea or webshop where I can get a good replacement bolt for the zero offset seat post saddle clamp. Preferably a torx one. That might last longer with the worse angle for the torque wrench.
I replaced mine for titanium bolts - not to save 2g (although that's nice!), but because I think titanium is less likely to round off. I got them from AliExpress. I went for hex key heads so I can use the 'ball' end of the allen key to tighten up 95% of the way and then fully torque with the proper end. Not using a torque wrench here to avoid damage to the seatpost.
-
For the build I'm not sure yet. Either Elitewheels ENT 2.0 + Ultegra Di2 or Elitewheels Edge + 105 Di2 (both with Magene P515 powermeter).
How is the Di2 battery mounted in the seat tube? Is a bracket included?
Sorry for asking, but I'm thinking about installing Di2 for the first time.
-
chubv: Di2 battery is mounted in seatpost, there is rubber insert included with a frame, so no worries, it fits and works well.
-
Finally arrived! Everything well packed and in good condition. Ordered last November. Jim was my contact person. He did a good job and answered all my questions. Tomorrow I will start the building and hopefully finish it.
-
Finally its "complete" MUAHAHAHAHAHA ;D
Tomorrow gona put the pedals and adjust the sadle on the roller while train some z2 and config the gear to full sync.
Sunday gonna do 100k Testing 8)
-
Finally its "complete" MUAHAHAHAHAHA ;D
Tomorrow gona put the pedals and adjust the sadle on the roller while train some z2 and config the gear to full sync.
Sunday gonna do 100k Testing 8)
Wow! Looks great!
Can you please post your saddle high? :)
-
I just got the finished photos of my size 58 glossy carbon frame. I’ve ordered my frame beginning of January, and although I was braced for a long delay—Chloe had previously pushed the estimate to late March due to CNY and bulk order backlogs—the frame is actually finished today!
Shipping to Austria is next; hoping it arrives safely in the next 2 weeks.
I'm really happy with the turnaround time!
-
Hello everyone.
I'm planning to order a frame and I'm unsure about the internal storage. I have seen in previous posts that the frame is obviously less stiff, but... Do you appreciate something when riding the bike? I will use the bike to race in some triathlons (short distance) so I'm in doubt about purchasing the frame with or without internal storage. Any recommendations?
-
Hello guys, I finally rode my bike today and I’m very impressed with its stiffness. It wasn’t my first build, but it was definitely the easiest one. Everything fit exactly as it should, without any issues (let’s ignore the integrated cables :D ).
After previous experience with AXS, I chose a mechanical 2x12 105 groupset with an Ultegra crankset and VXM 160mm brake rotors [great brake power], Novatec R4 wheelset. Di2 battery and cables are not my cup of coffee.
A few insights:
I’m 193 cm tall, 93 cm inseam, 110 kg.
The frame is pretty stiff during sprints, but the seatpost is creaking (or maybe the saddle? Not sure yet). The seatpost is installed with carbon paste and tightened to 9 Nm.
Specs:
LightCarbon frameset size 58 – 1,196 g
Color: raw carbon glossy
LightCarbon fork – 463 g
Expander – 57 g
Headset and all accessories – 219 g
LightCarbon specific seatpost (straight) – 191 g
Thru axle rear M12 P1.5 L 16 165 mm – 37 g
LightCarbon cockpit 440/120 mm – 341 g
Bag – 50 g
Door – 57 g
Total weight with pedals and all accessories – 8.6 kg
Total price – 1,600 EUR (since November I’ve been hunting for the best deals; otherwise the price could have been around 2,500 EUR)
Waiting time after ordering: 4 weeks (production and delivery)
In the photo I’m running 40 mm tires on 23 mm internal rim width. My road tires are 32 mm.
-
The frame is pretty stiff during sprints, but the seatpost is creaking (or maybe the saddle? Not sure yet). The seatpost is installed with carbon paste and tightened to 9 Nm.
Waiting for my frame, and what is the best solution for this? Looks like you are not the only one experiencing this one.
-
First Impressions – LCR018
Just like another rider who owns the same frame, I’ll use the exact same word to describe it:
“SMOOTH”
Today I did 100 km (around 1000 m of elevation gain) and the overall feeling was simply amazing.
What a geometry.
I felt super comfortable, always in control and with total confidence on the bike.
In my opinion, it’s clearly some kind of all-rounder with an endurance DNA:
Climbs well
Responds well enough in sprints
Has good aerodynamics
Rolls fast on the flats
But its strongest point… is comfort
Properly equipped, it’s more than capable of racing Fondos and long-distance events.
It’s not a pure crit race machine — it doesn’t have that ultra-aggressive, razor-sharp nervous feel — but that’s not what it’s built for.
It’s a bike for riders who want performance with control and real long-ride comfort.
And in that role… it absolutely delivers.
-
Do we know the maximum system weight for the frame?
I was told 120 kg when i asked Hedy at Lightcarbon.
-
Bar Tape still missing. Everythig else works fine. Wheels LightCarbon. Size 54.
Edit:
LCR018-D UD 54 black matte finished without logo, storage
Cockpit: HBR17 (380x100mm)
Wheelset: C67DB-BRD28-55C-CS2 Butterfly wave matte finish without logo
Bottle Cages:LightCarbon BC205-UD-M
BB: Rotor T4729 BB - Intern - T47-85.5/86.5/89.5/92-DUB
Sram Force E1 48/36 with Powermeter 10-36t
160mm Brake rotors
Conti GP 5000 32mm
Some AliExpress TPU Tube
Saddle: SD01 LightCarbon
LOOK X-Track Race Carbon Ti Pedal
7,7kg as seen on the foto with pedals and bottle cages
I am 178cm
Bike looks awesome! I love the look of those wheels. What does pricing on that wheelset look like? Thanks!
-
Bike looks awesome! I love the look of those wheels. What does pricing on that wheelset look like? Thanks!
Thanks! Like 599 Dollars per Wheelset, I Think. Or 549…
-
What is the exact ZTTO chain guide to order for this frame if using a SRAM 1x13 Force XPLR chainring
-
Hello everyone.
I'm planning to order a frame and I'm unsure about the internal storage. I have seen in previous posts that the frame is obviously less stiff, but... Do you appreciate something when riding the bike? I will use the bike to race in some triathlons (short distance) so I'm in doubt about purchasing the frame with or without internal storage. Any recommendations?
I am storing tubes, tire levers and a multitool in the storage bag. Having this i don't need the saddle bag anymore.
IMO it looks better and cleaner - i would always opt for it.
Triathlon will have no Sprint in the Bike - the less stiffness should affect less than in crits.
Beside this: Most of the km will be Training and not in a competition.
-
A last question to the people from EU that has bought the frame (I live in Spain). LC says that in the shipping costs are included all taxes (they call it Duty Free shipping). It is true or do you have payed some additional fees?
Thank you!
-
Din't pay any additional fees
-
A last question to the people from EU that has bought the frame (I live in Spain). LC says that in the shipping costs are included all taxes (they call it Duty Free shipping). It is true or do you have payed some additional fees?
Thank you!
I Live in Portugal
Frame/Handlebar/seat post: US$649
T47 bottom bracket: US$10
Painting Cost: US$120
Shipping cost Shipping to Portugal by DFS express (Duty free shipping) US$157
Payment charge PayPal handling fee (4.5%) US$42
Total: Final amount should be paid US$978
I payed 978USD deliver to the door, no extra taxes or customs (cause its all-ready included on the price).
-
A last question to the people from EU that has bought the frame (I live in Spain). LC says that in the shipping costs are included all taxes (they call it Duty Free shipping). It is true or do you have payed some additional fees?
Thank you!
They sent this to me in the UK in a way that did not involve any extra tax. I am not sure if they can guaranty 100% that it will be free of tax.
-
I am storing tubes, tire levers and a multitool in the storage bag. Having this i don't need the saddle bag anymore.
IMO it looks better and cleaner - i would always opt for it.
Triathlon will have no Sprint in the Bike - the less stiffness should affect less than in crits.
Beside this: Most of the km will be Training and not in a competition.
Yeah, I think the stiffness difference is one of those things that might be measurable, but not something that we would really notice in the real world. I have a gravel frame coming with internal storage and I'm not worried about it at all. Most of us guys are visual creatures, right? The enjoyment of seeing my bike without a saddle bag is going to outweigh any imperceptible loss of stiffness.
I was more concerned about the durability of the lid than the frame itself. If the lid breaks then it could be a pain to get a replacement, especially years later from now.
-
I was more concerned about the durability of the lid than the frame itself. If the lid breaks then it could be a pain to get a replacement, especially years later from now.
Then order an additional one when you’re buying the frame 🤷🏼
-
Yeah, I think the stiffness difference is one of those things that might be measurable, but not something that we would really notice in the real world. I have a gravel frame coming with internal storage and I'm not worried about it at all. Most of us guys are visual creatures, right? The enjoyment of seeing my bike without a saddle bag is going to outweigh any imperceptible loss of stiffness.
I was more concerned about the durability of the lid than the frame itself. If the lid breaks then it could be a pain to get a replacement, especially years later from now.
In Case of no Spare Parts and loss of the part, no repairing possible: I am pretty sure, 3D-Printing and AI will get easier and accessable enough to create a new one. But keep an eye on it for a few years 😄
Furthermore i am sure that "the enjoyment of seeing" increases Placeboeffects for Speed 😄
A saddle bag will influence aerodynamics more than a storage bag.
Fortunately it isnt that easy to measure aero gains compared to weight.
-
Finally you have convinced me and I have just ordered the frame with downtube storage. Thanks for your responses!
-
My frame is ready to ship next week, paid invoice DEC 15 2025.
Cause of delays are Chinese New Year and Out of Stock Zero Offset Seat-post.
Requested installation of top tube holes but not the most appealing looks in compare to other brands, i will rate it 7/10 and its free of charge anyways.
-
I know some on here have reported issues with the seatpost not clamping correctly. I have just put mine together and I noticed that the clamp 'wedge' as supplied from LC seemed like it was constructed incorrectly! The clamp is made of three triangle wedges and the one in the middle seemed upsidedown in my eyes. I reversed this as shown in my picture below. On the left is the clamp as supplied, and on the right is the clamp after I rotated the center wedge. In my mind this would give a better spread of clamping force on the seatpost. I'm not sure if this is the cause of the problem others have experienced, but maybe worth a look. I have had a short ride on mine and I have no issues with my seatpost.
(https://i.postimg.cc/59ZRD5MT/P3030043b.jpg)
-
Well in my ride i had seatpost slip, i had carbon paste and tight to 8nm (was ok for most off the ride), in the clamp it says 6-8nm torque, but on the manual says 8/10nm.
I asked LC (Wendy) and she confirmed with LC Engineer, you can torque to 10nm if needed (case of slip seatpost)
There is another post in this forum where someone asked Jim and had the same response.
Now i added more carbon paste and have torque to 10nm, all good and its seems to have fixed the problem.
Later will check the Clamp
-
I put carbon paste between the lock module parts (also between frame, lock, seatpost) also on the whole length of seatpost and finaly dont have any creaking and slipping. Torque 9Nm and three digit weight. But clean the seat tube with isopropanol first
-
I know some on here have reported issues with the seatpost not clamping correctly. I have just put mine together and I noticed that the clamp 'wedge' as supplied from LC seemed like it was constructed incorrectly! The clamp is made of three triangle wedges and the one in the middle seemed upsidedown in my eyes. I reversed this as shown in my picture below. On the left is the clamp as supplied, and on the right is the clamp after I rotated the center wedge. In my mind this would give a better spread of clamping force on the seatpost. I'm not sure if this is the cause of the problem others have experienced, but maybe worth a look. I have had a short ride on mine and I have no issues with my seatpost.
(https://i.postimg.cc/59ZRD5MT/P3030043b.jpg)
So, on the center, triangular piece, the top and bottom angles are different?
-
Yes - slightly different angle.
-
Yes - slightly different angle.
Thanks. I'd love to hear from people with wiggly seatposts that correcting the clamp, using carbon paste, and tightening to 9nm sorted it.
-
Check this morning, my clamp was well position from factory, i have quite good piece of carbon paste on the seat post and torqued to 10nm, no plays no creakings all good.
Did 50 mim on the roller and good.
-
Got pictures of my frame this morning. I went with a variation of the Euro Bike design.
Ordered on Nov 26
-
Got pictures of my frame this morning. I went with a variation of the Euro Bike design.
Ordered on Nov 26
looks nice, how did you specify the paint feature on the rear triangle?
-
looks nice, how did you specify the paint feature on the rear triangle?
I'd say he told them to use the Euro Bike design but with different colours. ;-)
-
looks nice, how did you specify the paint feature on the rear triangle?
It took quite a few emails back and forth with different changes. I worked with Wendy and she was very good about sending a new rendering with the changes
-
I bit the bullet and confirmed my order this morning. I was told it should be 2-4 weeks. Now I sit *patiently* and wait for them to send me pictures of the painted frame. Nervous but excited at the same time.
-
I bit the bullet and confirmed my order this morning. I was told it should be 2-4 weeks. Now I sit *patiently* and wait for them to send me pictures of the painted frame. Nervous but excited at the same time.
I placed my order in mid-January. They said it would be shipped before Chinese New Year or in early March. This week, I asked for an update on the shipping date and they replied that the frame would be ready at the end of April... so I find it hard to believe your 2-4 weeks.
-
I bit the bullet and confirmed my order this morning. I was told it should be 2-4 weeks. Now I sit *patiently* and wait for them to send me pictures of the painted frame. Nervous but excited at the same time.
Which frame size?
-
I placed my order in mid-January. They said it would be shipped before Chinese New Year or in early March. This week, I asked for an update on the shipping date and they replied that the frame would be ready at the end of April... so I find it hard to believe your 2-4 weeks.
Fair points. I usually try to assume that when coming from that far away that the delivery dates are about half of what I should expect. What I’m hoping for is- possibly foolishly - is somewhere in the middle of, so maybe 5-6 weeks(?)
-
Which frame size?
I was leaning towards the 56 based on their sizing chart recommendation. I used bikeinsights to compare the frame with some of my previous bikes and found that the 58 should be good. It was very similar to my old Fuji gran Fondo Classico and I found that bike to be very comfortable.
-
Has anyone tried using an alternative UDH with this frame? I'm sure I saw a Framesandgear one being used by someone amongst the last 117 pages. I am looking for a little more clearance for a larger cassette.
-
Yes - slightly different angle.
I just remembered that yours is the frame with the painted seatpost. How has that been working out? Do you feel like the paint has been a factor in fitment? Is the interface with carbon paste and the painted seatpost fine?
-
Hi,
here ist my build
Size 52 with chameleon painting
Shimano 105,
magene p515 with Stone Chainrings in front, ztto cassette
Tagoola wheels
Build was smooth, made already a few km on the roll with it and now the First rides outside.
No issues with the seatclamp (with 8Nm)
Only issue with the Back wheel is that the sound of the freehub isn't steady.
Will wait a few km If the grease will so its Job. Otherwise i will grease it again.
Feels fast and comfortable to me👍
-
Hi,
here ist my build
Size 52 with chameleon painting
Shimano 105,
magene p515 with Stone Chainrings in front, ztto cassette
Tagoola wheels
Build was smooth, made already a few km on the roll with it and now the First rides outside.
No issues with the seatclamp (with 8Nm)
Only issue with the Back wheel is that the sound of the freehub isn't steady.
Will wait a few km If the grease will so its Job. Otherwise i will grease it again.
Feels fast and comfortable to me👍
Nice! Which size (ml) are the bottles?
-
I replaced mine for titanium bolts - not to save 2g (although that's nice!), but because I think titanium is less likely to round off. I got them from AliExpress. I went for hex key heads so I can use the 'ball' end of the allen key to tighten up 95% of the way and then fully torque with the proper end. Not using a torque wrench here to avoid damage to the seatpost.
What is the size of the bolt for replacement? I think i need to order
-
Nice! Which size (ml) are the bottles?
750ml,
Getting the rear bottle back into the cage is a bit complicated while driving, as the cages are relatively tight.
A smaller bottle would be easier, i guess.
-
Side load cage might help there
-
Hey friends, my saddle slipped today on an uneven path and I wanted to ask you how tight you tighten the screws and whether you use carbon paste or something similar on the contact surfaces?
-
Hey friends, my saddle slipped today on an uneven path and I wanted to ask you how tight you tighten the screws and whether you use carbon paste or something similar on the contact surfaces?
I’d also be curious to hear how people are getting a torque wrench in there. I haven’t been able to find an adapter that works with mine, so I ended up doing it by hand. Thankfully I haven’t had any slippage so far, but I only have one ride on it at this point.
Also, here are a few pictures of my build. I finally got it put together. Components are a mix of a little bit of everything lol. It still needs tape obviously, and I still haven’t decided if I’m going to run it 1x or 2x.
Pretty happy with the weight too, 7.1 kg as pictured, with pedals and bottle cages. I’m running Michelin Pro 5 35 mm tires, and they measure 36.8 mm mounted, with plenty of clearance.
-
Hey friends, my saddle slipped today on an uneven path and I wanted to ask you how tight you tighten the screws and whether you use carbon paste or something similar on the contact surfaces?
Just tight is by feel. Never used a tourqe wrench on my saddle bolts and actually on most of my bolts and never had a problem.
-
I just remembered that yours is the frame with the painted seatpost. How has that been working out? Do you feel like the paint has been a factor in fitment? Is the interface with carbon paste and the painted seatpost fine?
Works fine, though have not been out on a bumpy road yet. Will keep you posted (pun intended!).
-
Works fine, though have not been out on a bumpy road yet. Will keep you posted (pun intended!).
Please do.
-
Hey friends, my saddle slipped today on an uneven path and I wanted to ask you how tight you tighten the screws and whether you use carbon paste or something similar on the contact surfaces?
If I pull the trigger on this frame I will definitely be buying these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5MF23JN?smid=A1ML6PJNVH7NPT&th=1
-
What is the size of the bolt for replacement? I think i need to order
For the saddle mount, I got Titanium M5 (25mm long) Wanyfa bolts from AliExpress.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32857143214.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.9.bf43f19cMnn85S
-
Hey friends, my saddle slipped today on an uneven path and I wanted to ask you how tight you tighten the screws and whether you use carbon paste or something similar on the contact surfaces?
Had the same problem yesterday. Then went for more cabon paste and torque (without torque wrench)...
-
So nice! Please add specifications, weight, etc. and more photos! :D
Some more photos.
-
Yet another finished LCR018. ;D
Finally finished & proud to call this my newest bike (although my wife doesn't get why i need a 6th bike ;D ;D ;D):
LCR018-D – Size 54 - without storage (1000€)
Cockpit: HBR17 (380x90mm)
Wheelset: Easedon Ultralight - Goldix 240 SL, 40mm Deep, UD Matte, 28mm Wide, Fly Weight, XDR (475€)
Bottle Cages: Lightcarbon BC11
BB: From Lightcarbon - "Gineyea BB4786-29" - Sram DUB 29 bottom bracket
Group: SRAM Rival eTap AXS Gruppe - XPLR | Wide D1 | 1x12 (10-44t) (800€)
Tires: Continental GP 5000S TR - 32mm (tubeless) (100€)
Saddle: SD01 Lightcarbon
Pedals: Shimano 105 SPD SL
7,45kg as seen on the photo
I am 178cm. 86cm inseam. 78cm saddle height
Around 2400 € overall.
First ride impressions: very snappy, agile and fast. Compares to my Canyon Endurace CFR.
PS: Get the "Toopre Bicycle Bottom Bracket 6 in 1 Removal and Installation Tool" for the Gineyea BB.
-
After an easy build up I did 3 rides. 160km and 3000m climbing combined. Happy with the bike but not the best I ever owned. Doesn’t feel lively and playful.
It’s a size 56 in raw carbon glossy. 360/110 handlebar.
Mounted parts lying around.
Elite 50D Wheels with GP 5000 32C and TPU tubes.
SRAM RED XPLR 13 speed.
Garbaruk oval 48t on RED power crank with Look pedals. SRAM bottom bracket.
Old SRAM Force brakes and levers.
AliExpress carbon saddle.
Weight with pedals 7,1kg.
I experienced no seatpost slipping even without carbon paste. Also no problems with tightening the saddle like other people mentioned here.
But I had to secure the screw from the down tube compartment with strong loctite.
-
Happy with the bike but not the best I ever owned. Doesn’t feel lively and playful.
Of course it doesn’t, the geometry and wheelbase aren’t designed to be “lively and playful” .
If thats what you want, then youve built the wrong frame.
-
I have to disagree with you. Compare to my Specialized Crux that is longer and slacker it’s not that fun to ride. And I had the same wheels/ tires on it.
-
I have to disagree with you. Compare to my Specialized Crux that is longer and slacker it’s not that fun to ride. And I had the same wheels/ tires on it.
Interesting - but what could it be, since I am still waiting for shipment I‘m just a keyboard warrior :) but looking forward to compare it to my road bike since bb height, wheelbase, chain stay length is similar or like you said shorter/steeper/lower than a crux 🧐
Any idea what the reason is since I guess the frame size is the same?
-
Interesting - but what could it be, since I am still waiting for shipment I‘m just a keyboard warrior :) but looking forward to compare it to my road bike since bb height, wheelbase, chain stay length is similar or like you said shorter/steeper/lower than a crux 🧐
Any idea what the reason is since I guess the frame size is the same?
If I had to take a guess it would be cutting open the down-tube to make a storage compartment, the stiffness around the BB area is directly impacted by it (I remember seeing -10 or -15% in stiffness in one of the threads here). I've only ridden a 2017 Giant TCR before and I can immediately feel the difference while climbing out of saddle.
-
If I had to take a guess it would be cutting open the down-tube to make a storage compartment, the stiffness around the BB area is directly impacted by it (I remember seeing -10 or -15% in stiffness in one of the threads here). I've only ridden a 2017 Giant TCR before and I can immediately feel the difference while climbing out of saddle.
You can't compare a TCR to the LCR018-D. Its not a like for like comparison.
Ive ridden my LCR018-D over 2000km now and it has been superb - smooth and faultless, the perfect everyday training bike, out in any weather.
I still think its great fun to ride, its light and fairly responsive - but its an endurance geo frame, so its never going to feel like a TCR or an SL6/7/8 (ive had a TCR and an SL6 in the past for comparison).
Just to note - as a bike thats out in all weather, I gave it a ceramic coating last week (CarPro SiC Quartz) and it has really opened my eyes to ceramic coatings.
First off, the bike looks bonkers good (glass like shine and smooth to touch), but the real benefit is the cleanliness. The application was as easy as a polish - simply rub one, wait and buff.
After being out on wet mucky roads yesterday, I came home and there was a layer of muck on the underside of the down tube.
Instead of the usual scrubbing match to get it off, I ran my finger along it and watched everything fall straight off - it was fantastically satisfying!
The SiC is available in very small bottles (10ml for £14.95), and I was able to coat the bike frame 3 times and still have some left over - can't be bad to that value.
I want a super light aero bike that can climb, and im pinning hopes on Peters new aero frame coming out soon, but the LCR018-D will be my everyday workhorse - a job it is performing beyond my expectations.
-
I’ve been ceramic coating frames for a few years now. I agree, it makes a decent difference, and well worth doing.
Even the decent automotive hybrid ceramic sprays are worth using as an easy alternative.
As for how a bike feels/handles. There are a ton of reasons bikes feel different.
Geometry is a big factor but small changes to body posture and positioning make a difference too. I don’t yet have my 18-D but I do have 12 other bike right now. Some bikes I have in two different sizes and the difference between the two is wild, even though the angles are the same and the contact points are in the same place.
-
If (when) I get mine, it will get a Gtechniq coating before I build it up. If I have my seatpost painted I'll probably mask off the bottom of the post before coating it.
-
First: I would buy it again. Overall happy with it. I just missing some more enjoyment.
But I owned soo many expensive big brand bikes that gave me a good feel of how a ride can be. Some of the bikes performed better others less.
I will now playing with different tires and the contact points.
Again it’s a great product and I am looking forward for the new Gravel frame to replace my Trek Checkmate…an other expensive bike that I not really like to ride.
-
Heads up for anyone following the LCR018-D thread. Trace Velo just released a video featuring the LightCarbon LCR018-D frameset.
Looks like he’ll also be doing a full build and a follow-up video later on :)
Trace Velo video on the LCR018-D (https://youtu.be/Vcam2DBqAcQ?si=A5D-8leq3X2Zjw4v)
-
Expect prices to go up…
-
Expect prices to go up…
Expect an affiliate code!
I think this frame is way too nice for a full Aliexpress build, but that's probably just me.
-
What do you think in chiner world is not up to the standard? Outside of brifter/derrailleur there is quality at very good value level on pretty much every component. And most people running wheeltop and latest version of erx seem to be happy. There are some issues but compared to 18months ago it’s night and day.
-
What do you think in chiner world is not up to the standard? Outside of brifter/derrailleur there is quality at very good value level on pretty much every component. And most people running wheeltop and latest version of erx seem to be happy. There are some issues but compared to 18months ago it’s night and day.
I don't think any of it is necessarily bad, but I don't think any part of any Aliexpress drive train, braking system, bottom bracket, or headset rivals western brands. The one possible exception is cranksets. Some of them seem pretty darned good.
-
Just to note - as a bike thats out in all weather, I gave it a ceramic coating last week (CarPro SiC Quartz) and it has really opened my eyes to ceramic coatings.
First off, the bike looks bonkers good (glass like shine and smooth to touch), but the real benefit is the cleanliness. The application was as easy as a polish - simply rub one, wait and buff.
After being out on wet mucky roads yesterday, I came home and there was a layer of muck on the underside of the down tube.
Instead of the usual scrubbing match to get it off, I ran my finger along it and watched everything fall straight off - it was fantastically satisfying!
The SiC is available in very small bottles (10ml for £14.95), and I was able to coat the bike frame 3 times and still have some left over - can't be bad to that value.
Interesting one, it seems not too expensive compared to other car specific brands.
I've the new Dynamic Secret Surface Ceramic-Coating here for my upcoming build. Will see how it goes and how long it lasts.. It seems they embeded the coating in some kind of gel, as its much higer volume (100ml for 3-4 bikes).
-
Heads up for anyone following the LCR018-D thread. Trace Velo just released a video featuring the LightCarbon LCR018-D frameset.
Looks like he’ll also be doing a full build and a follow-up video later on :)
Trace Velo video on the LCR018-D (https://youtu.be/Vcam2DBqAcQ?si=A5D-8leq3X2Zjw4v)
Nice in the video that LC is offering a partial refund or replacement if you find something wrong with the frame QC. He reported right away to LC and they did a meeting to double the effort of Quality Control to prevent it from happening again.
-
Nice in the video that LC is offering a partial refund or replacement if you find something wrong with the frame QC. He reported right away to LC and they did a meeting to double the effort of Quality Control to prevent it from happening again.
In my opinion that doesnt mean anything and no one can check if they will do. Of cause they say that to a sponsored youtuber, but will they do the same for an average customer?
This kind of statements are absolutly worthless imho.
-
In my opinion that doesnt mean anything and no one can check if they will do. Of cause they say that to a sponsored youtuber, but will they do the same for an average customer?
This kind of statements are absolutly worthless imho.
First of all, Luke isn't a sponsored Youtuber. They sent him a frame for him to build up and review. Why would LC do that other than for the exposure to the TraceVelo audience. They know that he's going to tell his audience everything about his experience, including his experiences dealing with LC's QC and customer service. If they tell him they'll replace the frame, they know he's going to tell his audience that a price adjustment and if that's unsatisfacory, a frame replacement is on the table. They're asking for trouble if they put that out there but fail to live up to that. They told him that they didn't simply increase QC on finished frames, they told him they've worked with the supplier of the latex bladders and have actually altered them, implementing an improvement. Do you think they're lying to Luke? DO you think Luke would relay that information if he didn't believe it was true?
LC puts their reputation on the line by sending Luke a frame. Luke puts his reputation on the line with whatever follows. He risks his livelihood if he doesn't look after his reputation. These statements are only worthless if reputations are worthless.
-
Just got photos of the bike frame, will finalize painting this week I believe so hopefully get the frame by the end of the month!
-
Interesting one, it seems not too expensive compared to other car specific brands.
I've the new Dynamic Secret Surface Ceramic-Coating here for my upcoming build. Will see how it goes and how long it lasts.. It seems they embeded the coating in some kind of gel, as its much higer volume (100ml for 3-4 bikes).
Ha! Funny you should mention secret surface - I got it when they had a sale a while back.
Tried it and have to say I wasn’t really impressed at all. I have a few Dynamic products and not really happy with any of them to be honest.
The Carpro stuff is in a different league, and as mentioned actually cheaper as you can buy the small bottle, which is more than enough for one frame.
-
Is the OEM T47 BB 12 or 16 notch? Need to buy a tool.
-
Is the OEM T47 BB 12 or 16 notch? Need to buy a tool.
Very curious about that myself. If it is this one, it should be 16T? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005007632877687.html
-
You need something similar to the parktool BB 27.3. It's a smaller OD than SRAM Dub BBs so BBt 47-16 won't work (doesn't engage the teeth fully).
-
Is the OEM T47 BB 12 or 16 notch? Need to buy a tool.
I asked LC about the CEMA BB and they said me: "If you buy the High-end CEMA BB, A 16T wrench with a diameter of 49 or a 16T49/50 socket will work". I think that you can ask them about the another BB.
-
In my opinion that doesnt mean anything and no one can check if they will do. Of cause they say that to a sponsored youtuber, but will they do the same for an average customer?
This kind of statements are absolutly worthless imho.
I am not a youtuber, just your below average guy. I can confirm LC is good for taking care of their customer. If you go back through the forum, I received a frame that had a paint chip happen by the shipping company. I worked with Chloe from LC and I am very happy with the resolution we came to. LC was willing to lose a lot of money on my frame to make it right.
-
LC puts their reputation on the line by sending Luke a frame. Luke puts his reputation on the line with whatever follows. He risks his livelihood if he doesn't look after his reputation. These statements are only worthless if reputations are worthless.
He just gave this frame, he never built up, a glowing review.
He also gave og evkin a glowing review when he was sent a broken frame and they had to replace it. Then he fixed the frame with 1 layer of UD. Really don’t think it was a risk for lightcarbon to send him a frame. I wonder how bad the frame would have to be to get a negative review from him
-
A general question for the experts. I always carry a spare derailleur hanger in my bike. I'm new to the UDH standard and I have read that these derailleurs are more robust and instead of bending, they can make a backwards rotation when hit. The questions is: do you carry a UDH spare with your LCR018-D? If affirmative, any recommendations?
Thanks
-
A general question for the experts. I always carry a spare derailleur hanger in my bike. I'm new to the UDH standard and I have read that these derailleurs are more robust and instead of bending, they can make a backwards rotation when hit. The questions is: do you carry a UDH spare with your LCR018-D? If affirmative, any recommendations?
Thanks
Depends if you’re SRAM or another brand.
If you’re not using a SRAM UDH Mech then do what you’ve always done. However, it would take one hell of an impact to bend one.
-
I got the titanium because the info in this thread said it was shorter. Came in same length as the plastic one. Weight as pictured: 22g, 17g and 12g. Last one is 3d print. Just search the thread to find the files.
EDIT: KRoser is the man with the plan/files. https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg100188/topicseen.html#msg100188
I adjusted the length and printed an even shorter computer mount for the Elmnt Bolt.
-
Congrats to the owner of this FAST BIKE! nice build.
https://youtu.be/37NP6MqPutw?si=GWnuacrid6XJAH1h&t=4245
-
He just gave this frame, he never built up, a glowing review.
You saw a different video than I saw. He went over the construction and finish of the frame and was generally very positive except with regard to the flaw he found and highlighted. He went into detail with his communications with LC about the defect. He didn't review the bike he hasn't built up or ridden.
He says he's going to build, ride, and review the bike.
-
My experience after a few rides:
- seat post did slip, applied more carbon paste and it slipped again. Cleaned the seatpots , put a healthy amount of paste and 2 strips of plastic frame protection tape on the front and back of the seatpost where the clamp engages and it seems the issues is fixed. As other stated you can use any other slightly thick and tacky plastic.
- the LC integrated handlebars have a very short reach. If your position is dialed for a more traditional bar, order one with a 1cm longer stem. Also the bar drop is small, pretty easy to stay for a long time in the drops.
- The front end of the bike is pretty neutral and comfortable with 30 mm tires. Coming from a round seatpost bike, the back end is noticeably more rigid due probably to the aero seatpost. Dind not beat me up, but longest rides where only 4h tho.
- the bolts that hold the puck for your specific computer came loose after 3 road rides, lost 1 of them and replaced them with ones form another mount. Also the mount itself has a 3 bolt interface with the stem instead of the common 2 bolt one. Not sure how easy is to find a replacement one if I want something elese.
- Got a custom glossy paint job that is flawless in my opinion but the paint layer is pretty thin. Hope it survives well light scratches and bumps.
- Saddle clamp bolts are not easy to reach with a torque wrench, but its not that big of a deal as others made it seem imo . The clamp is pretty sturdy and you can tighten it by hand without needing to go to the maximum and risking damaging carbon rails.
- Downtube storage compartment cover is sturdy, does not rattle even with a 650 ml bottle
-
My experience after a few rides:
- seat post did slip, applied more carbon paste and it slipped again. Cleaned the seatpots , put a healthy amount of paste and 2 strips of plastic frame protection tape on the front and back of the seatpost where the clamp engages and it seems the issues is fixed. As other stated you can use any other slightly thick and tacky plastic.
- the LC integrated handlebars have a very short reach. If your position is dialed for a more traditional bar, order one with a 1cm longer stem. Also the bar drop is small, pretty easy to stay for a long time in the drops.
- The front end of the bike is pretty neutral and comfortable with 30 mm tires. Coming from a round seatpost bike, the back end is noticeably more rigid due probably to the aero seatpost. Dind not beat me up, but longest rides where only 4h tho.
- the bolts that hold the puck for your specific computer came loose after 3 road rides, lost 1 of them and replaced them with ones form another mount. Also the mount itself has a 3 bolt interface with the stem instead of the common 2 bolt one. Not sure how easy is to find a replacement one if I want something elese.
- Got a custom glossy paint job that is flawless in my opinion but the paint layer is pretty thin. Hope it survives well light scratches and bumps.
- Saddle clamp bolts are not easy to reach with a torque wrench, but its not that big of a deal as others made it seam imo . The clamp is pretty sturdy and you can tighten it by hand without needing to go to the maximum and risking damaging carbon rails.
- Downtube storage compartment cover is sturdy, does not rattle even with a 650 ml bottle
Did you check the assembly of your seatpost clamp per this post:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg105578.html#msg105578
-
Yeah, checked it after i saw that post. Mine was assembled correctly
-
Yeah, checked it after i saw that post. Mine was assembled correctly
Thanks. That's disappointing to hear. This issue could be a deal-breaker for me. I pretty much need to know that LC is going to modify the design to address this before I'd place an order. I'm not excited about buying a new frame with a proprietary seatpost where there's a significant likelihood that I'd need hack-or-bodge the installation to make it functional. They fixed the storage cover. They need to fix this. Jim's been silent here for quite a while.
I'm hoping that the TraceVelo build encounters this issue in order to put more pressure on LC to correct the problem.
-
Not to minimize LC's fault here, but seatpost slippage is pretty common for integrated setaclamps. I think i had it on all new bikes, even with external collar and round seatposts. This is the first one where i felt i needed to stick extra stuff on the seatpost, maybe cleaning with alcohol and reapplying new thick layer of carbon paste would have been enough...
-
Thanks. That's disappointing to hear. This issue could be a deal-breaker for me. I pretty much need to know that LC is going to modify the design to address this before I'd place an order. I'm not excited about buying a new frame with a proprietary seatpost where there's a significant likelihood that I'd need hack-or-bodge the installation to make it functional. They fixed the storage cover. They need to fix this. Jim's been silent here for quite a while.
I'm hoping that the TraceVelo build encounters this issue in order to put more pressure on LC to correct the problem.
The Slipage is "common" problem in many bike manufacters west and east, for exemple 3t strada had the same problem even on newer models (not to say its acceptable) as mention before on the forum you can torque "if needed" to 10nm.
On the clamp it self say 6-8nm on the guide paper say 8-10nm, i talked to LC (Wendy) cause i had slip seatpost at 8nm torque with some carbon paste, and she confirmed with enginear staff if needed you can torque to 10 nm, i put more carbon paste and 10nm torque and no more problems at the seatpost (not even over pot holes).
Note: no platics used
Anyway i recommed any one with this problem to confirm 1º with their contact at LC.
-
Ordered on 15th of Dec... finally ready for shipment.
Can't wait to build this beauty up
-
The Slipage is "common" problem in many bike manufacters west and east, for exemple 3t strada had the same problem even on newer models (not to say its acceptable) as mention before on the forum you can torque "if needed" to 10nm.
On the clamp it self say 6-8nm on the guide paper say 8-10nm, i talked to LC (Wendy) cause i had slip seatpost at 8nm torque with some carbon paste, and she confirmed with enginear staff if needed you can torque to 10 nm, i put more carbon paste and 10nm torque and no more problems at the seatpost (not even over pot holes).
Note: no platics used
Anyway i recommed any one with this problem to confirm 1º with their contact at LC.
I had this issue and tried all the tricks. I "solved" it by a wrap of plastic on the back side of the seat post, but Jim told me "The production manager said it was due to the carbon fiber layers being scratched when the seat tubes were painted black; it was a mistake by the painters during the year-end rush. " So I'm getting a new seat post. I guess you need to prove it matches the production date AND the problem persists after trying carbon paste and 10nm torque.
-
I had this issue and tried all the tricks. I "solved" it by a wrap of plastic on the back side of the seat post, but Jim told me "The production manager said it was due to the carbon fiber layers being scratched when the seat tubes were painted black; it was a mistake by the painters during the year-end rush. " So I'm getting a new seat post. I guess you need to prove it matches the production date AND the problem persists after trying carbon paste and 10nm torque.
Is this scratching visible on your post? Please let us know if the replacement solves the problem. And please hang on to the email where Jim acknowledges the problem and states that it's LC's responsibility.
-
Ordered on 15th of Dec... finally ready for shipment.
Can't wait to build this beauty up
Good looking green/black fade!
-
Is this scratching visible on your post? Please let us know if the replacement solves the problem. And please hang on to the email where Jim acknowledges the problem and states that it's LC's responsibility.
No visible clues except the large amount of play in the frame. Scratch might be sanding, too? There might be details lost in translation. I also had the opportunity to get a straight seat post instead of the setback, so that’s nice.
-
Thanks. I'm thinking that it makes sense to get both seatposts.
-
Anyone know the specs of the saddle clamp bolt and also the saddle rail bolts? Quite soft bolt heads that are already rounding. Want to replace with titanium. Thanks
-
Anyone know the specs of the saddle clamp bolt and also the saddle rail bolts? Quite soft bolt heads that are already rounding. Want to replace with titanium. Thanks
For the rails I used the M5x25 bolts from AliExpress...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859827954.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859827954.html)
-
The seatpost clamp on the LCR018 isn’t the best solution, and there is too much play between the seatpost and the frame. However, as others have said, seatpost slippage — unfortunately — is a common problem on many bikes. My Cube has about the same issue.
My solution:
I wrapped TESA electrical tape (2–3 layers) around the very end of the seatpost and the same further up near the clamp (once the height was roughly set). This way, the post fits tightly and even has to be pushed down into the frame.
With post diameter increased by two wraps of tape, carbon paste, and the clamp tightened to 10 Nm, there is no slipping and no movement.
PS: i do this on many bikes. Because it also prevents/lowers water ingress into the frame
-
Is this the new updated seat-post that will prevent slippage?
-
Is this the new updated seat-post that will prevent slippage?
This is the first mention of a new updated seatpost I've come across. It doesn't look different to me. What leads you to think there's a new updated seatpost, or that this is it?
-
This is the first mention of a new updated seatpost I've come across. It doesn't look different to me. What leads you to think there's a new updated seatpost, or that this is it?
I just compare my seatpost to this posted seatpost here before look the difference.
-
Is this the new updated seat-post that will prevent slippage?
That seatpost appears to be different to mine. I received my frame in December 2025. Mine has the textured area only on front edge - you might be able to see it in my picture. The one you show in your pic has texture all the way aroundso will probably offer more resistance to slipping.
Incidentally, I have had no issues with slipage. I only torqued to 7nm. Maybe the paint film thickness has helped.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wMHLYBXX/P1170006b.jpg)
-
Hello all,
I’m in the building process and keep referring back to this forum for tips & tricks, very useful !!
However I seem to have an issue with the expander plug slipping out of the steerer tube when torquing up the top cap.
The plug is done up to 10Nm but comes out during the tightening of the top cap well before reaching 6Nm.
I read a lot about slipping seat posts but anyone having the same problem or knows how to prevent it?
Thanks!
-
Hello all,
I’m in the building process and keep referring back to this forum for tips & tricks, very useful !!
However I seem to have an issue with the expander plug slipping out of the steerer tube when torquing up the top cap.
The plug is done up to 10Nm but comes out during the tightening of the top cap well before reaching 6Nm.
I read a lot about slipping seat posts but anyone having the same problem or knows how to prevent it?
Thanks!
6 N.m is too much even if it is written in the manual. Just screw until the play disappear.
-
Hello all,
I’m in the building process and keep referring back to this forum for tips & tricks, very useful !!
However I seem to have an issue with the expander plug slipping out of the steerer tube when torquing up the top cap.
The plug is done up to 10Nm but comes out during the tightening of the top cap well before reaching 6Nm.
I read a lot about slipping seat posts but anyone having the same problem or knows how to prevent it?
Thanks!
Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step
-
Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step
Just a couple of data points. I've never used carbon paste on an expander plug. I've never needed to. Also, "until there's no play" is correct, but "no play" needs to be addressed in an assertive manner. Make sure it's really no play when you lock the front brake and rock the bike and forth with enough weight on the bars so that the front wheel doesn't easily slide, and really make sure that there is really no play in headset in that scenario.
-
Use plenty of carbon paste around the expander plug to help create more friction. Then tighten to 10nm. Then tighten the topcap until there's no play. No torque meter needed with that last step
I'd also mechanically check the expander plug & grease it if necessary
-
6nm for a bearing cap is idiotic. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near that tight.
As mentioned above. So long as there is no play when the front brake is applied, it’s tight enough. Anymore than that just prematurely kills the bearings.
-
My experience after a few rides:
- seat post did slip, applied more carbon paste and it slipped again. Cleaned the seatpots , put a healthy amount of paste and 2 strips of plastic frame protection tape on the front and back of the seatpost where the clamp engages and it seems the issues is fixed. As other stated you can use any other slightly thick and tacky plastic.
- the LC integrated handlebars have a very short reach. If your position is dialed for a more traditional bar, order one with a 1cm longer stem. Also the bar drop is small, pretty easy to stay for a long time in the drops.
I have the same problem of a slipping seat post, I wanted to know which kind of strip of plastic frame did you use. Thank you
-
Hi, I bought the BC11 bottle cage together with the frame from LightCarbon. My bottle keeps falling out on small bumps. It seems very loose and does not hold the bottle. Has anyone else had this problem? Any solution? Thanks.
-
Hi, I bought the BC11 bottle cage together with the frame from LightCarbon. My bottle keeps falling out on small bumps. It seems very loose and does not hold the bottle. Has anyone else had this problem? Any solution? Thanks.
The BC11 is very loose and doesnt have enough tension for most bottles. Only solution i found is to use the 800ml van rysel bottles i had lying around. Is a bit thicker and fits exactly. So far never fell out even on bunny hops. Hope it stays that way
-
6nm for a bearing cap is idiotic. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near that tight.
As mentioned above. So long as there is no play when the front brake is applied, it’s tight enough. Anymore than that just prematurely kills the bearings.
And I hope it goes without saying that one preloads the headset bearing with the stem bolts loose, only tightening them after the top cap bolt is set.
-
I have the same problem of a slipping seat post, I wanted to know which kind of strip of plastic frame did you use. Thank you
I had some generic frame protectors form Aliexpress like the ones bellow, nothing special.
You don't even need adhesive strips of plastic, you can use any piece that is not super thin (scotch tape is to thin and flimsy in my opinion)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009425564829.html
Try to clean the inside of the frame and seatpost with some alcohol before applying the carbon paste. After tightening the clamp, do a short 5 min ride or try to move the seatpost to simulate riding on int and check if is still tight. A small amount pf play might arise after it "settles" Also don't overtighten the clamp even if seems appealing!! I see LC recomended to some users to go to 10Nm, i wouldnt go further then that.
I've done mine by hand and is probably around 6-8Nm.
-
[HELP REQUEST]
Hi there, everyone.
I have a situation with my build, where I can't seem to locate the stem screws for the handlebar combo. As my frame already arrived a couple of months ago, I'm not sure if those screws weren't sent by LC by mistake or if I've misplaced them in the meantime.
I already contacted LC, who were prompt to imediatly send replacement screws by DHL expedited shipping (free of charge). The thing is, as I'm in Portugal/European Union, and from past experiences with DHL over here, they will charge me a lot of money just for handling process at Customs (+fees) upon arrival. I'm not in a hurry to finish my build, as I'm still waiting for other parts, I can wait for the screws, and by doing that, try to save some money by avoiding the DHL international shipping straight from China.
So, I'm kindly requesting the help of a good samaritan over here, based in the European Union (preferably in the South of Europe, like Portugal, Spain, Italy or France), that is about to get his frame shipped from LC, where I'd request them to send my screws along with his frame, and upon receiving it, he would be willing to send the screws to my address using a regular postal service. And of course, I'll cover the required expenses (via Paypal, Revolut or regular bank transfer).
If you think you can help me, please send PM.
Thanks in advance!
-
The BC11 is very loose and doesnt have enough tension for most bottles. Only solution i found is to use the 800ml van rysel bottles i had lying around. Is a bit thicker and fits exactly. So far never fell out even on bunny hops. Hope it stays that way
Thanks for the heads-up on the BC11 cage. I changed my order to the older BC205 style.
-
My frame arrived yesterday, packaging fine as I expected.
I like the raw carbon finish, very pretty.
-
My frame arrived yesterday, packaging fine as I expected.
I like the raw carbon finish, very pretty.
Nice. That looks like the older seatpost with texturing only on the leading edge, yes?
-
yes, i will update you after i've tried it out with my ~89kg.
-
Hello everyone,
First of all, thanks to all of you — I’ve learned a lot from the information shared in this thread, and it really helped me make my decision. That’s also why I finally decided to create an account here.
At first, I was aiming for the LCG071-D frame, but since I won’t be running 50-622 tires, I later noticed that the LCR018 can take up to 38 mm, which is more than enough for me. If I ever want to go with 50-622, I’ll just take my MTB instead.
So yesterday I ordered an LCR018-D in size 56. I’m 182 cm tall with a 91 cm inseam — yes, long legs and a short torso, part of the freakshow cabinet. A bike fit suggested a size 56, same as my current Kona Roadhouse.
And a zero offset post and 100 /380 bar
I went for matte black without logos, mainly because I couldn’t find a color I really liked in the LC charts. Not sure yet if I’ll keep it matte black or paint it myself, but I’ve got plenty of time to decide while the frame is being built. Wendy mentioned production will take about 30–45 days. I requested DPD shipping so that all taxes and fees are prepaid.
I also asked for a 51 mm offset fork instead of the 47 mm, hoping it will make the ride feel a bit more stable, since I’m more used to the slacker head angles of MTBs. If it turns out not to be ideal, I can always order a 47 mm fork later on.
As for components: I already have a set of SRAM Force D1 AXS shifters, so those will go on the bars. For wheels I’ll be using a NOVATEC R4 DISC CL-PRO-XDR-Gen5 set. Still undecided between a 1x or 2x drivetrain — top speed isn’t really a priority, and there’s not much climbing here in the Netherlands. I guess it depends on what good deals come along.
To be continued!
hey there, i have basically the same measurements. are you happy with the size or do you wish you would have gotten a 54?
why did you go for the larger fork offset? and for what stem length did you go?
anyone else advice on sizing and fork offset for me? 182cm, 90/91cm inseam height.
used to ride a 2023 supersix evo in size 56, which felt a little too big, sadly got stolen end of last yeat.
really want to go more endurance-bike this time.
thank you so much guys
-
yes, i will update you after i've tried it out with my ~89kg.
Thanks. When I resumed cycling in 2021 I was at 102kg. I'm glad my seatpost coped with that.
-
After reading this thread days and nights - I’m almost about to order this frame. But I am just wondering, if there isn't a good alternative frame:
I am looking for something with a similar, endurance-focused geometry, (long seat-tube, long head-tube, short eff. top tube, high STR-ratio) + at least 32mm tire clearance, but with a more "sleek"/"minimalist" and less bulky design/appearance. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I have to buy the LCR018-D (no drama).
-
After reading this thread days and nights - I’m almost about to order this frame. But I am just wondering, if there isn't a good alternative frame:
I am looking for something with a similar, endurance-focused geometry, (long seat-tube, long head-tube, short eff. top tube, high STR-ratio) + at least 32mm tire clearance, but with a more "sleek"/"minimalist" and less bulky design/appearance. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I have to buy the LCR018-D (no drama).
Not sure what exactly you are looking for but you might look at the XM Carbon Speed R01. I love mine in the largest size the have. Not an aggressive model at all. Bike is incredible in handling and stiffness.
-
My frame arrived yesterday, packaging fine as I expected.
I like the raw carbon finish, very pretty.
Love the raw glossy finish.
More character then the matte black ones
Still more stealthy then the huge downtube logos
-
After reading this thread days and nights - I’m almost about to order this frame. But I am just wondering, if there isn't a good alternative frame:
I am looking for something with a similar, endurance-focused geometry, (long seat-tube, long head-tube, short eff. top tube, high STR-ratio) + at least 32mm tire clearance, but with a more "sleek"/"minimalist" and less bulky design/appearance. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I have to buy the LCR018-D (no drama).
Maybe Carbonda 505SL or 1136?
-
Maybe Carbonda 505SL or 1136?
Yeah I am considering the 1136, but at the end it's still a fraction longer in Size S/50, so I guess I have to stick with the LCR :) Was just wondering if I overlook some newish/unknown frame...
-
54cm frame - 18.5lbs/8.4kg with computer, radar, tools/tubes/CO2 ready to roll. 17.3lbs/7.8kg without tools/comp/radar
Force E1 2x setup with Magene Teo power meter crank, Zen wheels (45/55)
What chainring is this that you used to run with the E1 chain?
-
After reading this thread days and nights - I’m almost about to order this frame. But I am just wondering, if there isn't a good alternative frame:
I am looking for something with a similar, endurance-focused geometry, (long seat-tube, long head-tube, short eff. top tube, high STR-ratio) + at least 32mm tire clearance, but with a more "sleek"/"minimalist" and less bulky design/appearance. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I have to buy the LCR018-D (no drama).
You can also take a look at Longteng RD301-D
-
Just asked for an update on shipping of my frame (size 50)..
Ordered: 26.01.26
Estimated shipping: Mid March
Updated estimated shipping: Mid April
From Jims answer, painting seems to be the bottleneck right now.
I'm quiet a bit disappointed about this. From what I read here in the forum this delay seems to be the norm and not an outlier, they need to get better telling real world leadtimes!
-
is there anyone in germany with a 56 or 54 frame build up i could take for a spin?
-
Just asked for an update on shipping of my frame (size 50)..
Ordered: 26.01.26
Estimated shipping: Mid March
Updated estimated shipping: Mid April
From Jims answer, painting seems to be the bottleneck right now.
I'm quiet a bit disappointed about this. From what I read here in the forum this delay seems to be the norm and not an outlier, they need to get better telling real world leadtimes!
Ordered my frame (raw carbon - glossy finish) on 28/01/2026. Frame is ready, but handlebar 400-100 is not in stock at the moment. Would be shipped in about 10 days or so. Maybe you have some custom paint scheme?
-
Ordered my frame (raw carbon - glossy finish) on 28/01/2026. Frame is ready, but handlebar 400-100 is not in stock at the moment. Would be shipped in about 10 days or so. Maybe you have some custom paint scheme?
I have choosen Deep Ocean Blue (marbeled texture), so yes kind of special paint. Jim told me now "only one team can do it".
Nevertheless, thats not an excuse for a delay - They knew this before confirming the lead time.
To get me right, I have no problem with longer lead time if they where honest when I ordered, I am dissapointed about false promises.
-
I’m having the same issue. I ordered my frame in January, and it was supposed to be shipped before or right after Chinese New Year. Now they’re saying mid-May. It’s a massive delay, and they don’t even inform you proactively—you have to email them yourself to find out
-
My size 54 unpainted glossy frame was originally scheduled to be delivered April 5, now end of April to the US (including the ~2-week delivery time). LC attributes the delay to the QC improvements related to the better latex mold release and endoscope inspection.
"Due to the added QC check point (with endoscope), the QC inspection time for each frame has increased, which make the progress slightly slower than before."
LC also found some defects in the earliest batch of BC-11 cages. I'm sticking with the BC205 since I like the cleaner lines in any case.
"As soon as I get your feedback regarding BC11 bottle cage issue, I arranged a meeting within our team.
Then our QC inspect again all the stock of BC11, testing with standard water bottle. Among the stock 120 pcs, there were 25 pcs be judged as unqualified (not tight enough).
Those 25 pcs were from early batch of production and has now destroyed.
As you can see in attached picture, the one that was a bit too loose, due to top shape that not full grip the water bottle.
This has also been added to our QC check point now, so there should be no longer such issue bottle cage reach our customers.
For those bottle cage that were too loose, we will ask our customer to take picture to check this point and will arrange replacement for them."
-
Got a message that my size 56 with glossy raw carbon ordered end of November was finally shipped (originally was supposed to arrive end of January).
-
Hello !
Quick question about stem length for the LCR018-D that comes with the HBR17 handlebar ! I'm 191cm tall with an inseam of around 91/92cm. I've decided to go with a 58cm frame, but do you know if I Should go for a 110mm or 120mm stem length?
Thanks!
-
Quick question about stem length for the LCR018-D that comes with the HBR17 handlebar ! I'm 191cm tall with an inseam of around 91/92cm. I've decided to go with a 58cm frame, but do you know if I Should go for a 110mm or 120mm stem length?
There is no correct answer to that question without a bikefitting or at least someone to measure and evaluate your flexibility and posture on the bike.
-
Thanks for the heads-up on the BC11 cage. I changed my order to the older BC205 style.
I have asked LC about the issue and Wendy replied that they have modified the BC11 design to hold the bottle harder. He provided the attached photo.
-
Hello !
Quick question about stem length for the LCR018-D that comes with the HBR17 handlebar ! I'm 191cm tall with an inseam of around 91/92cm. I've decided to go with a 58cm frame, but do you know if I Should go for a 110mm or 120mm stem length?
Thanks!
As Fronk mentioned, there is no correct answer to you question. I am the same height and have the same inseam as you but need a 100mm stem ;)
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/xT7pbQh6/IMG_2134.jpg)
My finished built LC018-D weighing in at 8.050kg with pedals (but before the bar tape was fitted). Not built to be particularly light weight, but just to do long endurance miles. I asked LC to paint the frame Ferrari Red with no graphics, but when I got it, I felt it looked a bit bare without anything, so I named the bike Hardknott after my favourite cycling pass in the Lake district. (If you know it, you'll know why!).
So far, I have only done about 200km which is enough time to say it's comfortable to ride, but certainly not the fastest bike I've ever ridden. The frame feels stiff enough for my power output, despite the internal storage. I have not suffered any seatpost clamping issues, but since my post is painted, the extra paint thickness added may take up some slack.
The build process went smoothly. This was my first full bike build and I found the internal routing not to be an issue. The only issue I faced was paint over spray on the front caliper mount which I carefully removed with a scalpel. I suspect that the rear caliper mount is not 100% flat and so the rear caliper sits a fraction off true. For this I will be taking the bike to a bike shop to face the mounting properly. Otherwise, I cannot fault the LC frame. The external part of Di2 cable for the front derailleur needed to be routed carefully with an extra anchoring point to avoid touching the tyre.
Here is the full spec'...
LC018-D frameset in Ferrari Red - size 52. PPF and Hardknott graphic added.
Ultegra di2 Groupset 50/34 chairings and 11/34 cassette
Brake discs - Shimano Dura Ace RT-CL900-160 (160mm) (x2)
Caliper spacer/adaptor for 160mm rotor (SM-MA-R160D/D)
Chain - Shimano Dura Ace CN-M9100
Saddle - Selle Italia SLR Boost Gravel Superflow TI 316 saddle
Brooks England Cambium handlebar tape (Natural colour)
Bottom Bracket - Token BB47V24 TBT T47 Inboard
Headset bearings - Enduro ACB 4545 150 SS Stainless Steel Bearings
Wheels - Light Carbon 240DB-UCX30-340-Ray with Sapim spokes ( + extra for brass nipples)
Tyres - MICHELIN Pro 5 Tubeless Classic 700C x 35
Rim tape - Muc-Off (RBV2709) (half a roll)
Vales - Click Core
Valve - Valve cores bodies 60mm (rainbow)
Assioma PRO MX-2
Hood top spacers for Ultegra shifter tops
Titanium bolt - Handlebar top (x1)
Titanium bolt - Handlebar - steerer clamp (x2)
Titanium bolt - Front durailluer mount to frame (x2)
TitaniumTorx bolt - Front brake caliper to frame M5x12 (x2)
Titanium Torx bolt - Rear brake caliper to frame M5x35 (x2) [one cut down 2mm]
Titanium bolt - M5x12 bottle mounts (x6)
Titanium bolts for saddle (x2)
Aluminium M5x12x1 washers for caliper mounts
Rainbow effect handlebar end caps
-
Hi all,
Just a couple of notes to make today regarding the LCR018-D.
1. If you have downtube storage - check the latch bolt regularly! Going over a rough patch of road today while out on my ride the whole door went flying with cage and bottle all attached. Managed to get it back without a car driving over it, but my lovely multi coloured anodised finish on the cage has been badly scratched which is very annoying.
2. I retract my statement that this bike isn't overly fast!!
I have a route which I use once a week as my benchmark route for training - around 32km, mixed terrain (280m climbing total).
I have over 50 saved activities on this route, shared between my old Aeroad copy and the LCR018-D.
Best average ive ever had on the Aeroad was 32.2km/hr.
Today on the LCR018-D I averaged 32.1km/hr.
This is not overly scientific, more just to let everyone know that this bike can be fast if you want it to be. Its already crazy comfortable for me, so to have sunshine today and get it out in good weather with a jersey on instead of a winter coat - I put it thorough its paces properly and it really is fantastic. Considering as well that the Aeroad is at least 2-3cm lower in stack, it makes the LCR018-D time even more impressive.
I will be changing the fork on the LCR018-D to my spare one which I have cut lower and will drop the front end by 1.5-2cm, so that should make things even more interesting, but regardless, the bike is fantastic and a joy to ride.
I am not claiming that the LCR018-D is the fastest bike out there, (im building up a Cervelo S3 at the minute which I expect to absolutely crush all my times), but for what is an incredible endurance bike is, it is no slouch!
-
Best average ive ever had on the Aeroad was 32.2km/hr.
Today on the LCR018-D I averaged 32.1km/hr.
mes), but for what is an incredible endurance bike is, it is no slouch!
Do you have any power data from those rides? I’ve got road segments with over 100 efforts on them, and for a lot of them, the difference between my 8kg road bike and 15kg enduro rig is only about a dozen seconds🙃
-
the difference between my 8kg road bike and 15kg enduro rig is only about a dozen seconds🙃
There is something seriously wrong if that’s the case.
-
If it's a flat smooth course, the system weight should make hardly any difference. It's just about power, aero and rolling resistance.
If it's hilly, that's a differnt matter.
-
There is something seriously wrong if that’s the case.
Why? Aside from the difference between the bikes, I didn't establish any other common variables. I’m tall and heavy (125kg), but at the same time, I put out quite a bit of power (350W@1h). Depending on the day, I might not even feel much of a difference in intensity when riding the same route at 200W versus 260W average power. It’s very subjective. In my opinion, any comparison of frames or bikes only makes sense on the same route, on the same day, at the same power, and for the same person. And it needs to be repeated multiple times. From day to day, or even within the same day, the wind can change direction and skew the results.
I’ll just add that what I wrote regarding the times on different bikes is the truth. These results were collected over many years, during which both my weight and power output fluctuated. On the enduro bike, I have fairly fast tires, a locked-out suspension, and I usually ride in an 'aero' position (tucked in, holding the bars right by the stem).
-
Just goes to show how different everyone is.
I can tell my power output to within 10-15w no problem, nevermind 60!!
Also, I’ve ridden a lot of bikes, and there’s huge time gaps between even quite similar bikes.
My 2018 TCR for example wouldn’t have a hope of being within 1 minute of my Canyon on a 1 hour effort with some climbing (less than 10m per km).
Anyway, there’s little point in arguing over it.
My point is simple, the LCR018-D is a fantastically fast bike and worth every penny.
-
My finished built LC018-D weighing in at 8.050kg with pedals (but before the bar tape was fitted). Not built to be particularly light weight, but just to do long endurance miles. I asked LC to paint the frame Ferrari Red with no graphics, but when I got it, I felt it looked a bit bare without anything, so I named the bike Hardknott after my favourite cycling pass in the Lake district. (If you know it, you'll know why!).
Where did you get the decals? Did you have to attach them with a certain paste?
-
I touched base with Wendy and received the quotation for the LCR018-D frame. She replied very quickly and in a very professional way, so I was really pleased with this first exchange.
She also proposed a carbon saddle for US$49 (151 g) and bottle cages BC205 for US$15 each (21 g). Does anybody know these products? For the weight and the price they don’t look bad to me.
The saddle is actually very good in my opinion. And i have tried a lot (15-20) in the past years.
BC205 i have no experience. BC11 i probably wouldnt buy again. Not enough tension to hold many bottles
-
Where did you get the decals? Did you have to attach them with a certain paste?
The decals are actually vinyl self adhesive lettering. You can design them online here...
www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk/lettering-designer
-
The decals are actually vinyl self adhesive lettering. You can design them online here...
www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk/lettering-designer
Did you choose white gloss?
-
Did you choose white gloss?
I used Speedy Decal and they are great and fast.
-
Did you choose white gloss?
Yes - it was white gloss. They are excellent quality. Note that is nicer to have proper decals applied under clear gloss paint, but this way you can change the decals in the future if you get bored.
-
Has anyone here succesfully build this frame with another stem/integrated handlebars? For example ACR/SMR parts? I am totally confused what parts are and are not compatible with each other (LCR headset, headset top cap, spacers). The reason why I am thinking about this is the relatively long reach (75mm) of the integrated handlebars.
-
I am also done - nothing special (black glossy, 58). The built was really easy, but omg this seatpost....this is not easy to torque the bolts for the saddle. I already feedbacked this to LightCarbon, i hope they will change the design somehow.
I will give you an update after I've really tested it.
-
Has anyone here succesfully build this frame with another stem/integrated handlebars? For example ACR/SMR parts? I am totally confused what parts are and are not compatible with each other (LCR headset, headset top cap, spacers). The reason why I am thinking about this is the relatively long reach (75mm) of the integrated handlebars.
I think the headset and spacers are a fairly popular design (I’m sure someone here might know the correct standard).
I got a set of Toseek bars off AliExpress which fitted perfectly without having to even change the bearing top cap - and the bars have been superb.
-
I think the headset and spacers are a fairly popular design (I’m sure someone here might know the correct standard).
I got a set of Toseek bars off AliExpress which fitted perfectly without having to even change the bearing top cap - and the bars have been superb.
Thanks for the response, very valuable!!!
(if someone knows an integrated handlebar from aliexpress with 65mm handlebar reach - I am listening, but I guess i have to use a separate bar and stem)
-
Thanks. When I resumed cycling in 2021 I was at 102kg. I'm glad my seatpost coped with that.
So short update concerning saddle and seatpost: It obviously slipped, but i retorqued it and since then it was fine. The saddle also slipped, but same procedure, fine since then.
I think even if it slips, you can mcgyver it with a bit of plastic around the seat tube easily, it is not as faulty as I feared after reading some of the posts here.
But: if someone knows of a fitting seatpost with a different saddle mounting style, please inform me.
-
I have taken one ride with my new bike with the LCR018-D frame. Really satisfied with the ride experience, feels a lot more stable and stiff compared to my old frame, which is great.
However, the storage door rattled non-stop and the latch mechanism was almost fully opened at the end of the ride.
How have you guys dealt with this? Is there any way to make the door latch more rigid?
I’m going on a 200 km ride this weekend and don’t fancy to pick up the door with bottle cage and bottle by the side of the road (or even worse, hit my fellow riders with it).
-
Take a look onto the backside of the storage door. The tiny screw can get tightened. I did it before my First Ride and had no losening or rattling issues.
Good luck
-
Take a look onto the backside of the storage door. The tiny screw can get tightened. I did it before my First Ride and had no losening or rattling issues.
Good luck
Thanks, but I tried to tighten it but did not succeed. I did not want to brake anything so I did not put an excessive amount of force though. However, the bolt movement follows the arm movement, so I am not quite sure that the bolt actually is adjustable.
I will give it another shot. I have put a order for another frame and requested an additional lid of the new version, which hopefully is better, but the delivery is at least a month away. A lots of biking will happen until then…
-
My winter build is a tribute to Norway... 🇧🇻🥰
-
Love the color and custom graphics!
-
Thanks, but I tried to tighten it but did not succeed. I did not want to brake anything so I did not put an excessive amount of force though. However, the bolt movement follows the arm movement, so I am not quite sure that the bolt actually is adjustable.
I will give it another shot. I have put a order for another frame and requested an additional lid of the new version, which hopefully is better, but the delivery is at least a month away. A lots of biking will happen until then…
AFAIR you must keep the screw in place with something else and just turn like a little teeny bit. After my initial fall-offs on Gravel, nothing like this happened since October last year. I also applied a little bit of duct tape on the top lid in the frame and a little bit at the side to make it very tight to avoid rattling.
-
My winter build is a tribute to Norway... 🇧🇻🥰
Mate, Looks Amazing 5*****
Nice Work
-
I read through the whole thread while working on my order with Jim without being able to see the photos. Finally had my registration approved and now enjoying going back to see everyone’s frame colour choices!
Learned a lot from everyone’s experiences with little niggles.
Also changed my mind on the downtube storage and took it out because I realised the BB and head tube stiffness difference was enough for me to notice in my fast group rides and racing.
I reckon this frame will make a real impact on the longer rides and races, particularly the ability to hold aero position for long periods at a time!
-
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice regarding an issue with my LCR018-D frame.
I recently took it on a longer ride (~150 km), and during the trip the storage door fell off several times. This is obviously quite dangerous, especially since I often ride in fast group rides.
Before the trip, I had already followed previous recommendations and tightened the bolt so that the lever is very hard to turn. Unfortunately, that didn’t solve the issue.
I then tried tightening the screw on the storage door even further, but the screw seems to be made of very soft material and ended up stripping/breaking. At this point, I can no longer adjust it, and the door is essentially unusable since it won’t stay in place.
My main question is:
Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove a stripped bolt in this situation? If I can get it out, I’m hoping to replace it with a higher-quality screw.
Bonus question:
Do you think the newer version of the storage lid is of higher quality, particularly with a better lever and a tighter, more secure fit?
Any tips or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
-
Interesting you should post this.
Had mine out for a 3 hour ride yesterday, storage door fell off twice, second time it cracked my bottle and all my remaining water went flowing down the road. 2 hours with no drink!!!!
I don’t know what’s going on with the mechanism - I’ll need to take a closer look, but it definitely feels like a design flaw and not up to standard.
If the v2 is not a proper fix, then they either need to come up with a v3 asap or i actually feel like requesting a frame swap to a non storage version as it is simply not fit for purpose.
So annoying that one little feature can really ruin what is otherwise a crazy good bike.
-
What size bottles are you guys using?
-
What size bottles are you guys using?
750ml Elite fly bottle for me.
It’s an endurance bike after all, so it needs to be able to handle at least this size if not bigger.
I know the roads are absolutely terrible, but the storage door needs to operate as well as a bottle cage just bolted to the frame.
I have a lot of big rides coming up in the summer and will need to sort this issue properly before then.
-
750ml Elite fly bottle for me.
It’s an endurance bike after all, so it needs to be able to handle at least this size if not bigger.
I know the roads are absolutely terrible, but the storage door needs to operate as well as a bottle cage just bolted to the frame.
I have a lot of big rides coming up in the summer and will need to sort this issue properly before then.
I use the same bottles in 750 and 1000. Hopefully the V2 door will be with me soon.
I got the shipping confirmation last week.
Fingers crossed it’s more secure
-
Interesting you should post this.
Had mine out for a 3 hour ride yesterday, storage door fell off twice, second time it cracked my bottle and all my remaining water went flowing down the road. 2 hours with no drink!!!!
I don’t know what’s going on with the mechanism - I’ll need to take a closer look, but it definitely feels like a design flaw and not up to standard.
If the v2 is not a proper fix, then they either need to come up with a v3 asap or i actually feel like requesting a frame swap to a non storage version as it is simply not fit for purpose.
So annoying that one little feature can really ruin what is otherwise a crazy good bike.
Definitely agree with you. I’m skeptical that a new version of the storage lid alone will fix the issue, it seems to be more an issue with the design of the locking mechanism itself rather than just the lid.
I’m really satisfied with the frame overall, but I do regret choosing the in-frame storage. Hopefully, LightCarbon will come up with a proper solution for this.
This is my only bike, and I ride it frequently - at least four times per week, including one ride of 200 km or more. I’ll also be using it extensively leading up to summer, when I’ll be participating in a 315 km race with our group doing at least a 36 km/h rolling average. On top of that, I plan to take the bike abroad for several trips, starting with Mallorca in two weeks.
Just to underline how important it is for me to be able to fully trust the bike during long, fast rides, especially in a group.
What size bottles are you guys using?
I’ve been using 750 ml bottles, and I’ll likely switch to 1-liter bottles soon. That said, the size doesn’t seem to matter - the lid was still coming off even when the bottle was in my jersey pocket and not in the cage.
While riding, I had to repeatedly pull the lid lever back up, and it would pop open again as soon as I forgot to do it.
If someone has the v2 storage lid, it would be great to hear how your experience has been.
-
Had a quick look this evening and it seems like the locking mechanisms tightness is dependent on the actual door being a tight fit in the first place.
My door has no foam on the very top edge.
I had put a bit of foam double sided tape up there not long after getting the bike and it made a massive difference to the locking mechanisms tightness.
This must have worn away, as on inspection tonight there’s none there, and the lock was very loose.
Just put another bit of foam tape on there, which makes the door quite hard to actually insert in the first place, but has tightened up the latch a heck of a lot.
It’s a bit of a bodge and not something I’m still 100% confident about relying on for big rides.
Will l contact Light Carbon to see what they say.
-
took another look at my storage lid and realized that I actually have the second version. I also confirmed that there is foam around the edges on the bottom of the lid. Before my first rides, I even added tape around the top edges as well.
At this point, I’m not sure what else to do. I’ve already sent a request to Jim, so I’ll wait to see what the next steps are.
For today’s ride, I plan to use electrical tape around both the bottom tube and the storage lid to try to keep it in place. However, this means the storage compartment itself won’t be usable due to the tape.
-
Hi Lads
I have the V2 i never had the door fall off, but i do check before every run with the botle if it radles, the only time it did i tight the inside "lock" bolt.
One other thing is i have my bag full enought dat i can insert without being too mutch of effort and i dont slide it up on the tube, i just let the bag on the door to create a light "push" on the door.
So in 10 hours of riding it, never had "ratles" sounds or door jump off
-
Damn, I just ordered a frame with storage. My plan: only equipment to fix a puncture, so I will not open it regularly. I'll try to really fix it tight, with tape and foam I guess.
-
Finallyyyyy done.
Now time to give it some beans. Planning to use it for fast bunch rides, crits, gravel races, and more.
Very happy with the looks and quality of the frame. Let's hope the storage door holds up. Feels rigid now.
EDIT: first ride is in the books. Feels very fast, comfy, smooth. Probably partly due to the 40mm tires. Tires are rubbing when getting out of the saddle while putting some power down. It seems the LC statement of 38mm max is true.
I'll change the tires for road setup soon. Very interested to feel the bike with 28mm front and 30mm rear tire.
This is a size 54 with 80mm sadle height and 120/380mm bar from LC. I'm 183 with 89cm inseam. The bike feels quite short. Stack feels good but I wouldn't mind a slightly longer reach. An even longer stem would put the weight too much forward though.
Size 56 with a non-rise cockpit would possibly fit me better. It's all within margin though and I expect I'll be able to get used to it.
-
Finallyyyyy done.
Now time to give it some beans. Planning to use it for fast bunch rides, crits, gravel races, and more.
Very happy with the looks and quality of the frame. Let's hope the storage door holds up. Feels rigid now.
Congratulations! Looks great.
How did you find the install of the big rock crank?
Im tempted by either the BigRock of Leese in 24mm (currently running 105), but dont want to mess about with a lot of spacers so that has made me cautious, all these new carbon cranks seem to have longer spindles than the standard Shimano ones - any feedback would be great!
-
Congratulations! Looks great.
How did you find the install of the big rock crank?
Im tempted by either the BigRock of Leese in 24mm (currently running 105), but dont want to mess about with a lot of spacers so that has made me cautious, all these new carbon cranks seem to have longer spindles than the standard Shimano ones - any feedback would be great!
Installing it was easy. I also have the 24mm spindle. Needed to use 2,5mm spacer on the DS to prevent the pm from rubbing against the frame. Added a 1mm on the left pedal to compensate it on that side. Pedals are now pretty much centered
-
Installing it was easy. I also have the 24mm spindle. Needed to use 2,5mm spacer on the DS to prevent the pm from rubbing against the frame. Added a 1mm on the left pedal to compensate it on that side. Pedals are now pretty much centered
Ah thats great to hear - thank you!
Bike is a joy to ride - hope you have many happy miles ahead.
-
Finally received my size 56 frame in raw carbon ;D.
Put it on the scale and not on the light side but not a big issue for me :
Frame size 56 with the front derailleur mount + storage door 1209g
Fork 424g
Handlebar 306g (90 length - 400 wide)
0 offset seatpost 193g
Big fan of the glossy raw carbon finish.
Started to mount it but I noticed that the rear axle doesn't screw freely as it should be : I mean I can't turn it easily by hand (for the front axle I don't have the issue).
I can for sure screw it with an allen key (but I can feel a little resistance).
When I remove the UDH hanger to screw the axle outside of the bike I can screw it by hand without problem.
I assume there should be a small misalignment between the holes in the frame (where the front axle goes) that may explain that.
Does somebody noticed this ?
Do you think this is an issue or nothing to be worried about ?
-
Received my replacement seat post. DHL wanted the same amount for VAT and handling as the complete frame kit, but that was closer to correct this time 😅
Not mounted yet, but finish looks good with full texture.
-
Am I understanding the instructions correctly that you basically have to cut the fork 8mm below the top of the stem (4mm plug + 4-5mm space on top)?
-
I also contacted Lightcarbon again to find out how much a replacement tru axle set would cost and also a seatpost.
At the moment, seatpost ist 55$ (offset or no offset) and axles are 10$/set.
As I contacted them with problems concerning the axles (nothin major, but I wanted some replacement for the future), they threw in the axles for free when I order a seatpost.
I did order a new seatpost, let's see if I also get the "new version".
UPDATE:You will always get the "new" seatpost now, so (although I had no slipping seatpost after the first ride) this topic should be resolved. This is really good to hear and shows that they are professionals who listen and act.
-
I finished my build a month ago. Wanted to share some point with you after a couple of rides.
- my seatpost kept slipping. Contacted Wendy, she told me there is a new version of the seatpost. She is getting one ready for shipment. Good service!
- I torqued my seatpost to 10NM and used more carbonfiber paste. It didn't slip anymore, but my seatpost is damaged due the slipping.
- I build my bike up with a mechanical shimano 105. It works but the frame is designed for electrical groupsets if you ask me. It took me a lot of time to funnel all the cables thru. Because i have a lot more cables running thru the frame, i can't use the frame bag because of this.
For the rest i am loving this bike so far. Quality is excellent and i have no problems what so ever!
-
I'm running mechanical shifting as well and needed to run cable housing fully to the derailleurs as their is no means for keeping tension otherwise. Internal cable routing kit and having access to the downtube through the storage door made it less maddening, but still had some trouble with passing through the chain stay for the rear shift cable. Seems to be very little space internally where the sections are joined. On a positive my shifting is smoother due to the full cable runs. The fork doesn't have an internal channel for the brake cable, so that was annoying to have to fish through what seems to a bit of a sharp angle/blocked path to get down the leg of the fork.
I love the internal storage and fortunately have had no issues with the door or door latch (yet?). my door does have a small amount of foam along the bottom U part of the door facing the frame. I have a cloth covered chain lock push down towards he bottom bracket and a resealable thick plastic bag with pump, tools and spare tube pushed up towards the headtube. Very slick. The internal cables don't seem to have an issue with this. If anything it hold them in place so they aren't moving around as much. Oh and a full size 4mm allen key because the seat clamps are terrible. I've probably pushed the torque too far as I had the seat angle slip each of my first two ride within a couple miles. Has been good since with a bit over 100 miles in.
Original design seat post does not seem to have slipped with 9nm and no carbon paster (i forgot and since it seems god I don't want to mess with it.)
Overall bike seems great and rides great. They did ship without sending me picks that were agreed on. And my original shipping was delayed about a month when they were out of the size bars I wanted. The bare carbon with gloss clearcoat still seems weird to show very little of the "carbon weave" look that it seems most folks associate with carbon fiber. I had seen other people's pics, but I guess I was still expecting more. Inside the storage door in the downtube looks amazing. I guess that outside layer is either a very fine mesh or generous amounts of black filler or epoxy to smooth out the frame? Still cool and shimmery and looks every bit like too much bike for me :)
-
I'm running mechanical shifting as well and needed to run cable housing fully to the derailleurs as their is no means for keeping tension otherwise. Internal cable routing kit and having access to the downtube through the storage door made it less maddening, but still had some trouble with passing through the chain stay for the rear shift cable. Seems to be very little space internally where the sections are joined. On a positive my shifting is smoother due to the full cable runs. The fork doesn't have an internal channel for the brake cable, so that was annoying to have to fish through what seems to a bit of a sharp angle/blocked path to get down the leg of the fork.
I love the internal storage and fortunately have had no issues with the door or door latch (yet?). my door does have a small amount of foam along the bottom U part of the door facing the frame. I have a cloth covered chain lock push down towards he bottom bracket and a resealable thick plastic bag with pump, tools and spare tube pushed up towards the headtube. Very slick. The internal cables don't seem to have an issue with this. If anything it hold them in place so they aren't moving around as much. Oh and a full size 4mm allen key because the seat clamps are terrible. I've probably pushed the torque too far as I had the seat angle slip each of my first two ride within a couple miles. Has been good since with a bit over 100 miles in.
Original design seat post does not seem to have slipped with 9nm and no carbon paster (i forgot and since it seems god I don't want to mess with it.)
Overall bike seems great and rides great. They did ship without sending me picks that were agreed on. And my original shipping was delayed about a month when they were out of the size bars I wanted. The bare carbon with gloss clearcoat still seems weird to show very little of the "carbon weave" look that it seems most folks associate with carbon fiber. I had seen other people's pics, but I guess I was still expecting more. Inside the storage door in the downtube looks amazing. I guess that outside layer is either a very fine mesh or generous amounts of black filler or epoxy to smooth out the frame? Still cool and shimmery and looks every bit like too much bike for me :)
Yeah im running a full cable housing as well! Found out after i put all the cables through the frame so i had to redo all of it, wich was shit haha
-
Am I understanding the instructions correctly that you basically have to cut the fork 8mm below the top of the stem (4mm plug + 4-5mm space on top)?
I tink it's like 5-6 mm all together... but I don't have the instruction right here... still I wanted to respond to your (quite important) question...
-
Hi guys!
Today I asked Carol from LC to make sure I receive the new version of the seatpost. She sent me the following information.
Previously, only the rear side had anti-slip granular coating. We now apply it full circle for much better friction.
The frame seat tube inner diameter has been slightly reduced for a tighter fit.
These changes effectively solve seatpost slipping.
Your frame will be with latest version. Please be assured.
-
Hi guys!
Today I asked Carol from LC to make sure I receive the new version of the seatpost. She sent me the following information.
Previously, only the rear side had anti-slip granular coating. We now apply it full circle for much better friction.
The frame seat tube inner diameter has been slightly reduced for a tighter fit.
These changes effectively solve seatpost slipping.
Your frame will be with latest version. Please be assured.
Great to see that they are actively taking steps to correct problems with initial designs, and the storage lid is hopefully an easy fix with the v2 design.
Having to make structural changes to the seat tube diameter to stop slip is slightly more annoying as an early adpoter - other than asking for the new seatpost with extra grip, I guess we are stuck with what we have.
With the state of the roads at the minute, seatpost slip is going to be a bigger issue than ever. I wish there were more frames with an ISP.
-
Great to see that they are actively taking steps to correct problems with initial designs, and the storage lid is hopefully an easy fix with the v2 design.
Having to make structural changes to the seat tube diameter to stop slip is slightly more annoying as an early adpoter - other than asking for the new seatpost with extra grip, I guess we are stuck with what we have.
With the state of the roads at the minute, seatpost slip is going to be a bigger issue than ever. I wish there were more frames with an ISP.
Do you use the inline post or -15?
-
Do you use the inline post or -15?
Inline post.
I get slow slippage - maybe 5mm over 10 rides - not a disaster, but just annoying and always in the back of my mind, to the point where if I see a rough patch of road I tend to stand.
I'd like to ask Carol about getting the newer seat post with extra grip and perhaps trying Silcas "sticky" carbon grip paste.
-
If it’s slipping even at proper torque it might just be slightly off tolerances between the post and the seat tube.
I had the same issue and what worked for me was adding a very thin plastic shim between the seatpost and the frame. Just enough to take up the tiny gap and increase friction.
Used something like this https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007545404263.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3IA52VT)
Not the most “pro” solution but it’s cheap and it actually fixed the slipping without having to overtighten the clamp.
-
Inline post.
I get slow slippage - maybe 5mm over 10 rides - not a disaster, but just annoying and always in the back of my mind, to the point where if I see a rough patch of road I tend to stand.
I'd like to ask Carol about getting the newer seat post with extra grip and perhaps trying Silcas "sticky" carbon grip paste.
Ah, ok.
I ordered an inline and a -15, but I now know I won’t be using the -15 so it’s available.
On previous frames when I’ve encountered slipping, I just spray the lower of the seat post with a few coats of clear coat to evenly add some more thickness.
It usually improves the situation
-
Ah thank you for the offer Steve!
Interesting point about using a spray on clear coat to increase thickness - I was wondering if there would be any sort of anti slip / grip spray on that might work.
I see one from Plastikote - its clear, so might be worth a punt:
https://plasti-kote.co.uk/trade/trade/functional/trade-anti-slip-paint-400-ml
-
Ah thank you for the offer Steve!
Interesting point about using a spray on clear coat to increase thickness - I was wondering if there would be any sort of anti slip / grip spray on that might work.
I see one from Plastikote - its clear, so might be worth a punt:
https://plasti-kote.co.uk/trade/trade/functional/trade-anti-slip-paint-400-ml
There are a few anti slip paints available. I’ve not tried any but I’m sure they would work. It depends what they use for texture.
You could just add something to a coat of clear.
-
Hello !
I'm going to start my build soon and I've received the little piece of paper to show how much to torque the différents parts but I'm wondering if there is a better notice with full and more detailed instructions ?
-
I made my order in early November and received the frame on January 3rd in size 58. The build went really well and I really cant nitpick anything. I replaced the headset bearings with Enduro stainless steel bearings and went for a Wheels MFG bb. The wheels are Elite Pro 2.0 with a 24mm inner width, and I currently have 32mm GP5000s. I put Ultegra Di2 groupset on it with 11-34T cassette, 170MM cranks, 50-34T chainring. Thanks everyone for all the posts and info along the way.
-
Finallyyyyy done.
Now time to give it some beans. Planning to use it for fast bunch rides, crits, gravel races, and more.
Very happy with the looks and quality of the frame. Let's hope the storage door holds up. Feels rigid now.
EDIT: first ride is in the books. Feels very fast, comfy, smooth. Probably partly due to the 40mm tires. Tires are rubbing when getting out of the saddle while putting some power down. It seems the LC statement of 38mm max is true.
I'll change the tires for road setup soon. Very interested to feel the bike with 28mm front and 30mm rear tire.
This is a size 54 with 80mm sadle height and 120/380mm bar from LC. I'm 183 with 89cm inseam. The bike feels quite short. Stack feels good but I wouldn't mind a slightly longer reach. An even longer stem would put the weight too much forward though.
Size 56 with a non-rise cockpit would possibly fit me better. It's all within margin though and I expect I'll be able to get used to it.
What do you mean by '80mm saddle height'?
-
What do you mean by '80mm saddle height'?
Height from centre bb to top of saddle.
-
Hi guys, new here and to bike building in general.
How would I go about if I had a specific design. I added it below, made with AI. Is this a good enough photo reference for them to make the design?
I woul ask LC directly, but im probably not buying till end of the month and I dont wanna waste their time as a non buyer.
-
Plenty to by for them with that picture, I don’t see any issue.
-
Height from centre bb to top of saddle.
800mm/80cm, then?
-
Gavin confirmed my size 54 is shipping soon, and the new production batch meets the new smaller diameter downtube dimension. The seatposts are also the latest / fully taped version.
A big thank you to everyone on this board for sharing their builds, and experiences, and for LC to continually listen to feedback and improve their product design and quality!
It's nice to see that LC are keeping to their revised shipping schedule as well. Especially considering the earlier feedback about persistent delays.
From LC:
I have checked, yes, your frame is from latest batch of production, and have just been moved to painting workshop today.
So it is with the latest refined diameter, and will come with latest seat post (including additional anti-slip tape).
BTW, the ETD will still be Apr.13th as mentioned last time.
-
I must have missed something. This is the first I'm hearing of a "new smaller diameter downtube dimension". Does anyone have any information about this? I also don't understand about the seatpost being "fully taped". I don't think the added texture that goes all the way around the post involves tape. Am I wrong?
-
Hi guys, new here and to bike building in general.
How would I go about if I had a specific design. I added it below, made with AI. Is this a good enough photo reference for them to make the design?
I woul ask LC directly, but im probably not buying till end of the month and I dont wanna waste their time as a non buyer.
Very nice! Jim may get a chuckle when you order because he and I went back-and-forth on color swatches until we settled on a very similar color to yours. Ask him to see the color YS 2280-1. That should get you close to what you’re thinking.
-
Hey,
For those who ordered the frame, how much was the frame (with everything like handlebar, seatpost, axles etc) without any paint job please ?
Thank you
-
This was the price 2 weeks ago:
LCR018-D: USD 699/set
SD01: USD 49/pc
SD02: USD 65/pc
-
This was the price 2 weeks ago:
LCR018-D: USD 699/set
SD01: USD 49/pc
SD02: USD 65/pc
What does SD01 and SD02 mean?
-
Hey,
For those who ordered the frame, how much was the frame (with everything like handlebar, seatpost, axles etc) without any paint job please ?
Thank you
#
2026-02-06 649USD
-
What does SD01 and SD02 mean?
The Lightcarbon seatposts
-
#
2026-02-06 649USD
So, apparently they increased the price by 50$ :/
-
899USD with shipping and to Canada and handlebars included, is the quote I got Mar 18
-
Paid 649$ (febr. 2026)
+ 113$ shipping to GER
+ 34$ PayPal fee
= 796$ in total
should arrive in the next days
-
For the folks who have ordered, what's the best way to communicate with LightCarbon? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger.
Also, are the Hambini QC levels a real thing? Do you ask LightCarbon to quote the price, for example, for the highest QC level?
-
Finished the assembly on my frame without any issue ;D
First ride yesterday and got issues that were discussed on this forum.
Integrated storage door that tend to open (as I was aware I did check regularly to not loose it during the ride).
After the ride I noticed that the small screw of the closing mechanism needed to be retightened. If this occur again I will add some threadlocker on it.
By safety I add a strap to maintain the door in case of problem : once the issue will be solved, I'll remove it.
I also have the saddle tilt and don't find a way to use my torquewrench to ensure the 16Nm. I tried to tighten it as strong as I can and will see.
First ride impression need to be confirmed with the right tire (I have ordered some 32 mm) : I installed temporarily some 28 mm tires but have some 32 mm in order (on my previous bike I have some 32 mm so of course the confort is not the same).
Anyway I noticed that I was much more confident with this bike in the downhill.
Still a big fan of the raw carbon glossy finish
-
Very nice! Jim may get a chuckle when you order because he and I went back-and-forth on color swatches until we settled on a very similar color to yours. Ask him to see the color YS 2280-1. That should get you close to what you’re thinking.
Good choice on the color ;) thank you, will do that!
-
The Lightcarbon seatposts
thanks
-
For the folks who have ordered, what's the best way to communicate with LightCarbon? I'm getting ready to pull the trigger.
Also, are the Hambini QC levels a real thing? Do you ask LightCarbon to quote the price, for example, for the highest QC level?
What is the Hambini QC level you are mentioning? There is no tiered QC pricing, if that is what you are implying. LC has fully integrated QC procedures to address the few stray fibers found in the Tracevelo unboxing video. See previous posts on this topic. LC seems to have been completely responsive to address all QC issues, and it applies to all bikes and components such as the loose water bottle cage and the seatpost slippage.
-
I made my order in early November and received the frame on January 3rd in size 58. The build went really well and I really cant nitpick anything. I replaced the headset bearings with Enduro stainless steel bearings and went for a Wheels MFG bb. The wheels are Elite Pro 2.0 with a 24mm inner width, and I currently have 32mm GP5000s. I put Ultegra Di2 groupset on it with 11-34T cassette, 170MM cranks, 50-34T chainring. Thanks everyone for all the posts and info along the way.
Nice build love the colourway. I'm waiting on mine now and want to get the wheels mfg bb too. Which one do you have?
https://wheelsmfg.com/collections/t47/products/t47-angular-contact-bb-for-24mm-shimano-cranks-black
https://wheelsmfg.com/collections/t47/products/t47-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24mm-shimano-cranks-black
-
What is the Hambini QC level you are mentioning? There is no tiered QC pricing, if that is what you are implying. LC has fully integrated QC procedures to address the few stray fibers found in the Tracevelo unboxing video. See previous posts on this topic. LC seems to have been completely responsive to address all QC issues, and it applies to all bikes and components such as the loose water bottle cage and the seatpost slippage.
Hambini interviewed LightCarbon's reps at Eurobike 2025 and this is what he reported: https://www.hambini.com/bike-frame-manufacturing-standards/
-
Hambini interviewed LightCarbon's reps at Eurobike 2025 and this is what he reported: https://www.hambini.com/bike-frame-manufacturing-standards/
That's from 2024. I'm not sure how it addresses the question of tiered QC, which isn't a thing.
-
Since somebody was asking how rainbow colored white would like. Today i got the pictures
-
Since somebody was asking how rainbow colored white would like. Today i got the pictures
Hello! Nice looking ! How much was the paint please ?
-
Since somebody was asking how rainbow colored white would like. Today i got the pictures
Already know it 😄 same color on mine
-
Hello! Nice looking ! How much was the paint please ?
These are the prices I was told at the end of January 2026:
No color painting (only apply the decal): USD 100/set
Classic Series: USD 120 per color, USD 140 for two colors per frame
Chameleon Series: USD 140 per color, USD 160 for two colors per frame
Crystal Effect Series: USD 180 per color, USD 200 for two colors per frame
-
Finally, after delays my frame and bits have arrived.
My 52 in raw clear with door was 1042g
I’ll weigh the fork once it’s cut
I have a few Cervelos from the past few years, so they’re really the direct comparison. But I also build bikes for people so I have experience with a lot of the main brands.
It’s a well built and finished frame set. The overall fit and finish is very high regardless of price. Sure, there are a few bits I’ll change immediately like the compression bung and headset bearings, but that’s to be expected. I’d do that on pretty much any frame.
I did that on the cervelos too.
The BB was nicely cut and a SRAM dub freely screws in by hand, and the wheel axles align perfectly.
I want to address a few points since I now have the bike in front of me.
1. The door opening - staying closed.
I’m pretty sure this is’nt the bolt on the back needing to be tightened. I think that’s actually making the situation worse as it’s the little nub on the top that holds the latch closed.
As this is worn away by frequent opening/ closing it gets worn away and loose. Tightening the bolt would wear this out more quickly allowing it to rattle open.
Im not sure how this can be fixed. Leave it with me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKKrDf2N/IMG-6014.jpg)
2.
The saddle rail bolts are a bit of a silly design but most of my hex keys allow it to be adjusted.
I’m swapping the bolts to shallow headed stainless steel bolts to see if that helps.
The hex size is also reduced from M5 to M4 so the hex key is physically slimmer which also helps.
I’m not 100% convinced these bolts will take the torque, but there is only one way to find out.
I’ll keep you posted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnPzTZ1M/IMG-6015.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xxQHsn3/IMG-6016.jpg)
-
Since somebody was asking how rainbow colored white would like. Today i got the pictures
I dont suppose they sent a video to show the changing colours?
-
I have a few Cervelos from the past few years, so they’re really the direct comparison. But I also build bikes for people so I have experience with a lot of the main brands.
It’s a well built and finished frame set. The overall fit and finish is very high regardless of price. Sure, there are a few bits I’ll change immediately like the compression bung and headset bearings, but that’s to be expected. I’d do that on pretty much any frame.
I did that on the cervelos too.
Please, can you share what compression bung and headset bearings will you use? I'm waiting for my frame and I'm in the process to buy all that I will need to build the bike.
-
Please, can you share what compression bung and headset bearings will you use? I'm waiting for my frame and I'm in the process to buy all that I will need to build the bike.
The link to the bearings
https://www.bike24.com/p2180630.html
You can use whatever compression bung you like. I just don’t like the ones with a tall top cap. I prefer the specialized one as it’s very low profile.
-
I dont suppose they sent a video to show the changing colours?
For me it looks like LCB 7207.
https://youtu.be/v3-La5Orlzk?si=qFzQEgpmQsOvnB36
Here you can find some chameleon colors > https://www.youtube.com/@wendychen6785/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=2
-
1. The door opening - staying closed.
I’m pretty sure this is’nt the bolt on the back needing to be tightened. I think that’s actually making the situation worse as it’s the little nub on the top that holds the latch closed.
As this is worn away by frequent opening/ closing it gets worn away and loose. Tightening the bolt would wear this out more quickly allowing it to rattle open.
Im not sure how this can be fixed. Leave it with me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKKrDf2N/IMG-6014.jpg)
Is this a new version of the door? I got two of them and neither of them has it.
-
Yep. It’s the absolute latest version.
-
That little nub isn’t on the v1, so this must be the “fix”.
I can’t understand why they are fighting gravity to keep the damn thing closed, surely it would make much more sense to have the latch closed in the bottom position, making it much harder for it to become loose.
The bolt holding the lever in place is a strange one.
It goes from loose to uncloseable with one quarter turn of tightness.
I’ve tried putting some thread lock on my v1 just to try and make the thing useable, but I’m pretty fed up with it.
Hopefully the new “nub” on the v2 does its job and keeps everything tight.
-
The link to the bearings
https://www.bike24.com/p2180630.html
You can use whatever compression bung you like. I just don’t like the ones with a tall top cap. I prefer the specialized one as it’s very low profile.
This one? https://www.specialized.com/es/es/carbon-steerer-tube-plug/p/156699?color=233350-156699&searchText=06214-2010
-
This one? https://www.specialized.com/es/es/carbon-steerer-tube-plug/p/156699?color=233350-156699&searchText=06214-2010
That’s what I choose to use, but many others are available.
There is nothing wrong with the one that comes with the frame, I just don’t like that style.
-
New to the forum. Just ordered size 47 (incl BB) with a 380/90 bar combo. Also ordered some gravel wheels as well. the 26mm wide 40mm depth with cx-ray spokes ($489). Total cost $1552 which is about £1240. Delivery was $283 no taxes DPD. Thought about a colour but cost and time frame (quoted 3-4 weeks extra) wasn't of interest. Will be transferring the bits from my current bike on it. Wheels going on my wife's gravel bike.
-
Please, can you share what compression bung and headset bearings will you use? I'm waiting for my frame and I'm in the process to buy all that I will need to build the bike.
if your in the UK hambini sells reasonably priced headset bearings (£11 each) thats what i used, he is just reselling some japanese made ones but since his reputation is based on high quality i dont think he would sell them if they were shit
-
if your in the UK hambini sells reasonably priced headset bearings (£11 each) thats what i used, he is just reselling some japanese made ones but since his reputation is based on high quality i dont think he would sell them if they were shit
Looks good, but I'm in Spain and with the Brexit now we have to deal with customs :(
-
Looks good, but I'm in Spain and with the Brexit now we have to deal with customs :(
So long as the bearings are stainless steel and the correct size, it doesn’t matter where they come from.
Headset bearings never spin, they only go back and forth so stopping rust is the key to longevity.
-
My Seatpost doesn‘t slip but it has horizontal play. Very annoying noises with every Pedal stroke. It May be caused by the wedge or it‘s just too big tolerances. Small layers of Tesa Tape didn‘t help. I‘ll try again with other Tape.
I remember that somebody Else had this Problem
But i don‘t find the postings again? Can anyone help me?
-
First time assembling an internally routed bike from scratch, what is this and how does it interface with the headset stack?
-
First time assembling an internally routed bike from scratch, what is this and how does it interface with the headset stack?
This comes up every few weeks, just search the thread as it’s been covered to death.
-
First time assembling an internally routed bike from scratch, what is this and how does it interface with the headset stack?
It fine-tunes the fit between the upper headset bearing, dust cap/top cap, and steerer tube. Without it, when you preload the bearing there can be rubbing and your steering will be very stiff.
-
This comes up every few weeks, just search the thread as it’s been covered to death.
Well yes, I have seen people mention it, but I haven't seen an exact answer for where it actually goes.
So do I place the upper headset bearing, then the spacer? Or does it go after the spacer that routes the brake hoses?
-
So long as the bearings are stainless steel and the correct size, it doesn’t matter where they come from.
Headset bearings never spin, they only go back and forth so stopping rust is the key to longevity.
I live in a high desert part of Utah in the US at 7000' and often less than 20% humidity. I'm not an expert but never hear about headset issues here, or even when I lived in hot / humid North Carolina for that matter. I know it's tough to change out an integrated headset, but I plan to use the standard LC steel headset on my build. Since it seems I might be in the minority with this choice, I'd like to ask does anyone support this decision to use the standard headset for such high desert environments?
-
I live in a high desert part of Utah in the US at 7000' and often less than 20% humidity. I'm not an expert but never hear about headset issues here, or even when I lived in hot / humid North Carolina for that matter. I know it's tough to change out an integrated headset, but I plan to use the standard LC steel headset on my build. Since it seems I might be in the minority with this choice, I'd like to ask does anyone support this decision to use the standard headset for such high desert environments?
If you’re not likely to have wet rides there is little point in swapping the standard bearings.
-
Hi all, would be great to see a gallery of everyone’s frame colour choices.
If you can spare the time, please post a pic of yours, whether that’s a part build, completed bike, or email pic from LC pre delivery, thanks in advance
-
My Seatpost doesn‘t slip but it has horizontal play. Very annoying noises with every Pedal stroke. It May be caused by the wedge or it‘s just too big tolerances. Small layers of Tesa Tape didn‘t help. I‘ll try again with other Tape.
I remember that somebody Else had this Problem
But i don‘t find the postings again? Can anyone help me?
Just document the issue and contact LC. I got a replacement. In the meantime I got the old one to sit right with a layer of thick plastic. The PU-bag my OEM-packed SRAM Force came in.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg106145.html#msg106145
-
Just document the issue and contact LC. I got a replacement. In the meantime I got the old one to sit right with a layer of thick plastic. The PU-bag my OEM-packed SRAM Force came in.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg106145.html#msg106145
Thanks for your response and the link to your posting. I am gonna contact LC and meanwhile try to fix with plastic...
-
Hi all, would be great to see a gallery of everyone’s frame colour choices.
If you can spare the time, please post a pic of yours, whether that’s a part build, completed bike, or email pic from LC pre delivery, thanks in advance
Or just scroll through the thread.
-
I'm wondering if anyone could advise me on a frame size and handlebar combo. I am really, really struggling to decide what size to get.
I am 188cm/6ft2in.
90kg but hoping to drop a few KGs with cycling!
Not super flexible, I get some shoulder pain over time with my current bike
Wanting an all day comfort frame.
My current bike is a sort of off brand from a UK based retailer called a Hoy Alto Ipravi .001
I put it in a geo comparison site vs the XL/580 LCR but maybe you guys can give some more insight. I did have a bike fit on my current bike and it seems OK for me but it's been my only road bike.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/hoy-alto-irpavi-2016-xl,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2026-xl-580/
I am leaning towards the 58cm frame, 420/110 bar/stem.
Thanks!
-
You have plenty of options with offset yes/no and stem length to influence the length, so ask yourself whether you want to have the endurance character of the higher stack of the racier smaller stack.
-
I'm wondering if anyone could advise me on a frame size and handlebar combo. I am really, really struggling to decide what size to get.
I am 188cm/6ft2in.
90kg but hoping to drop a few KGs with cycling!
Not super flexible, I get some shoulder pain over time with my current bike
Wanting an all day comfort frame.
My current bike is a sort of off brand from a UK based retailer called a Hoy Alto Ipravi .001
I put it in a geo comparison site vs the XL/580 LCR but maybe you guys can give some more insight. I did have a bike fit on my current bike and it seems OK for me but it's been my only road bike.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/hoy-alto-irpavi-2016-xl,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2026-xl-580/
I am leaning towards the 58cm frame, 420/110 bar/stem.
Thanks!
Not too sure why you’re deliberating on this if you’ve had a bike fit. If it was recent, just ask the fitter what size to go for.
Remember to add 8mm of stack for the bars and another 8mm for the mandatory headset bearing cap.
-
Not too sure why you’re deliberating on this if you’ve had a bike fit. If it was recent, just ask the fitter what size to go for.
Remember to add 8mm of stack for the bars and another 8mm for the mandatory headset bearing cap.
Sadly it was quite some years ago, I did contact them but they mainly just suggested a large Giant Defy frame, I don't think they are a fan of Chinese brands (it's a bike shop). I would go elsewhere near time. I definitely want more of an endurance fit!
-
Sadly it was quite some years ago, I did contact them but they mainly just suggested a large Giant Defy frame, I don't think they are a fan of Chinese brands (it's a bike shop). I would go elsewhere near time. I definitely want more of an endurance fit!
The 58 looks like a very close match to what you already have. Do you have spacers under your stem ? What’s the stem length and bar reach .
-
The 58 looks like a very close match to what you already have. Do you have spacers under your stem ? What’s the stem length and bar reach .
I do yes, 20mm of spacers and 120mm stem. Bar reach looks to be around 500mm but hard to measure accurately, will need some assistance for the other half later :D
-
I do yes, 20mm of spacers and 120mm stem. Bar reach looks to be around 500mm but hard to measure accurately, will need some assistance for the other half later :D
Bar reach will be something like 75-80mm
A 120mm bar sounds to be a good choice unless the current ones are ridiculously long or short.
Google handle bar reach and measure
-
In addition to the storage door being useless (having to tape it shut, so I cannot use it), my seat post is continually slipping.
I have torqued to 10 nm and added a lot of carbon fibre paste.
Does anyone have a good solution?
I frequently fly with the bike and have to remove the seat post to remove the battery, so I don’t want to add any loose parts between the seat post and the frame (such as the plastic PVC part that a previous poster posted).
-
Bar reach will be something like 75-80mm
A 120mm bar sounds to be a good choice unless the current ones are ridiculously long or short.
Google handle bar reach and measure
Ok, 60mm for the bar reach. Seems I was measuring frame reach before.
-
My frame ist ready to ship. I got pictures from Carol today.
-
In addition to the storage door being useless (having to tape it shut, so I cannot use it), my seat post is continually slipping.
I have torqued to 10 nm and added a lot of carbon fibre paste.
Does anyone have a good solution?
I frequently fly with the bike and have to remove the seat post to remove the battery, so I don’t want to add any loose parts between the seat post and the frame (such as the plastic PVC part that a previous poster posted).
Get in touch with your sales rep at LC.
Carol has agreed to send me out a new updated seatpost.
In the meantime, make sure your seatpost clamp is clean and greased - mine wasn’t clamping properly and causing terrible slippage. A quick clean and a spray of lube around the internals has made a big difference. Also upgraded to Silca carbon grip paste which is on another level from anything I’ve used before - great stuff.
-
My frame ist ready to ship. I got pictures from Carol today.
Beautiful design!
-
In addition to the storage door being useless (having to tape it shut, so I cannot use it), my seat post is continually slipping.
I have torqued to 10 nm and added a lot of carbon fibre paste.
Does anyone have a good solution?
I frequently fly with the bike and have to remove the seat post to remove the battery, so I don’t want to add any loose parts between the seat post and the frame (such as the plastic PVC part that a previous poster posted).
whats wrong with the door? i added some foam tape to the top edge on mine because it made noise but that fixed it but if i could go back in time i would order it without the storage. i wish they had made it so you could put the di2 battery in there securely
-
Ok, 60mm for the bar reach. Seems I was measuring frame reach before.
60mm would be very short for a bar. It’s critical to get this measurement correct.
People lays look at stem length but bar reach can be wildly different between bars.
-
It's definitely 60mm, or very close to, within a few mm, it's an older bike, not sure if the pic helps? I measured from the mid point of the front of the stem to the farthest point on the drops
(https://cdn.road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/styles/main_width/public/hoy-alto-irpavi-2016-fork-1.jpg)
I am happy to go for a more modern geo if we've moved on from this, the thread is hard to search through but seems similar height people have been going for 120 or 130mm stem
It's hard for me to describe if what I have now is right as it's been my only road bike so I have nothing to compare to sadly
-
It's definitely 60mm, or very close to, within a few mm, it's an older bike, not sure if the pic helps? I measured from the mid point of the front of the stem to the farthest point on the drops
I am happy to go for a more modern geo if we've moved on from this, the thread is hard to search through but seems similar height people have been going for 120 or 130mm stem
It's hard for me to describe if what I have now is right as it's been my only road bike so I have nothing to compare to sadly
Yes, but that’s what the bike fit data is for. without exact measurements I can’t help you as it’s pure guesswork, and other people’s choices are absolutely irrelevant.
You have spacers there too which also changes the overall reach measurements so I’m unable to advise.
If you have a turbo trainer do a MYvelofit and see what it comes back with.
-
Yes, but that’s what the bike fit data is for. without exact measurements I can’t help you as it’s pure guesswork, and other people’s choices are absolutely irrelevant.
You have spacers there too which also changes the overall reach measurements so I’m unable to advise.
If you have a turbo trainer do a MYvelofit and see what it comes back with.
Sorry, perhaps I misunderstood something earlier, these were measurements I took from my bike rather than from a spec sheet
-
Sorry, perhaps I misunderstood something earlier, these were measurements I took from my bike rather than from a spec sheet
I've heard good things about myvelofit getting you close. For background about where you are starting, you can look up your current bike measurements on geometry geeks, bikeinsights, 99 spokes, bike-stats, and quite a few more comparison sites. If your bike is listed, and you are running the default bar and stem, it is likely that they have all the measurements that you need to know your bike details. LCR018-D is on most of these sites. If you can't find your bike, get the dimensions from the manufacturer and load them manually on these sites for a custom comparison. This will be a good starting point. Then you might try to find reference bikes that you can touch, either by a friend or bike shop, possibly even renting something.
In my experience, the LCR018-D geometry is very close to my Santa Cruz Stigmata (in sizes 54), with the exception to of the long (+20 mm) toptube/ short stem combination that comes standard on the SC. Other close bikes to LCR018-D are Cannondale Synapse, ENVE Fray, plus many more endurance bikes that you can search. Cervelo Caledonia is not too far off. If you can ride any of these or find something comparable that you can access, that could be another way to zero in on an approximate fit. I found that to fine-tune my preferences, some extended experimentation with stem length and seat position on my SC was very helpful. I ended up trying +10, 20 and 30 mm on the stem, settling on +20. Adjusting bike and bar reach, this put me closest to a 120 length LC bar. Then there's also the crank length, but I suppose this could be fixed first since it will affect everything else. Lots of mid-size folks are moving to 165 mm cranks for a more forward position. Personally, I like the 165's. Shorter cranks usually require a taller saddle and allow for a slightly more forward seat position compared to longer cranks. If you haven't been riding much lately, you might check around to see if you ought to get some seat time to be more comfortable in a riding position before trying to fine tune everything.
-
After experiencing problems with the storage compartment lid—it rattled and I even lost it once with a water bottle attached—Wendy sent me a new, improved lid free of charge within a week. This one doesn't rattle, fits much better, and the lever stays securely locked in the "locked" position. For me, it's a perfect solution with quick implementation. Great job on excellent service!
-
did she sent free of charge (transportation included)?
-
Just finished mine. Able to handle 40C tires, no problem.
-
Hello,
Does anyone happen to have a photo of their LCR018-D frame/bike in glossy black? I’ve gone through almost all the pages of the thread, but the only black frames I’ve seen are either matte, raw carbon matte, or raw carbon glossy, but never glossy black.
Thanks in advance 🙂
-
Mine is partly glossy black..
Contrary to the post above, I can't use 40mm tires. The 40mm schwalbes measure exactly 40mm. It fits, but with less than 2mm margin at the rear chain stay and front derailleur.
The tire rubs when I get out of the saddle and put some power down. (nothing crazy, maybe already around 600W)
I think it's rubbing against the front mech. Stiffer wheels could help. I'm running ZEN 60mm 3.2mm carbon spokes, iw 25mm ext 30mm - weight limit 120kg -> I'm 86kg.
-
Depends if you use WAM width as measured, or go by what it says on the tyre.
I’ve fitted 40mm wide (external) rims to mine with a 35mm tyre, so 40mm total width will work - however, a 40mm tyre on a 25mm internal rim probably won’t work as it will inflate beyond 40mm.
(depending on brand of tyre etc etc etc)
If you’re going to post about things working or not working, be specific as other people read this stuff and make decisions based on that information.
As for a black frame, just edit a pic of a gloss raw. It takes 30 seconds to change the contrast etc
-
Regarding tire clearance on this frame, I'm using Caracal Race 40c without any problems at the rear, but I specifically went for rims with 21mm ID to achieve this. If I had used 25mm ID rims (that I also own and tested), it would still fit but the clearance at the chainstays would be too narrow. Still, I'm using 1x transmission, not sure if I could do the same with a front mech...
-
Mine is partly glossy black..
Contrary to the post above, I can't use 40mm tires. The 40mm schwalbes measure exactly 40mm. It fits, but with less than 2mm margin at the rear chain stay and front derailleur.
The tire rubs when I get out of the saddle and put some power down. (nothing crazy, maybe already around 600W)
I think it's rubbing against the front mech. Stiffer wheels could help. I'm running ZEN 60mm 3.2mm carbon spokes, iw 25mm ext 30mm - weight limit 120kg -> I'm 86kg.
Maybe 40 slicks fit but 40 with tread do not?
-
Depends if you use WAM width as measured, or go by what it says on the tyre.
I’ve fitted 40mm wide (external) rims to mine with a 35mm tyre, so 40mm total width will work - however, a 40mm tyre on a 25mm internal rim probably won’t work as it will inflate beyond 40mm.
(depending on brand of tyre etc etc etc)
If you’re going to post about things working or not working, be specific as other people read this stuff and make decisions based on that information.
As for a black frame, just edit a pic of a gloss raw. It takes 30 seconds to change the contrast etc
Not sure who you're aiming at. I said, I measured exactly 40mm on the 40mm specced schwalbe tire. Internal widt of 25mm.
It fits, but I also like to ride my bike. And then it didn't work out.
Ive now fitter 38mm tires and they acutally measure 37.5mm this works without any issues.
-
Not sure who you're aiming at. I said, I measured exactly 40mm on the 40mm specced schwalbe tire. Internal widt of 25mm.
It fits, but I also like to ride my bike. And then it didn't work out.
Ive now fitter 38mm tires and they acutally measure 37.5mm this works without any issues.
Not you, but generally people are saying this will fit, or this won’t fit without giving specific details or the wheel measurements.
-
Agreed, I should have added my wheels have an external width of 34mm. Definately plenty of room for 40C tires, with my wheelset.
-
Agreed, I should have added my wheels have an external width of 34mm. Definately plenty of room for 40C tires, with my wheelset.
It’s the internal measurement which makes the difference
-
Shipped!!
-
Ehhhhhhhhhhh!!!!
-
Having same issue. What kind of foam tape did you use ie what size? Struggling to find any locally.
-
Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG
But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.
Thanks alot in advance.
-
For anyone dealing with a loose storage cover. I put on some helicopter tape to the top part of the frame where the cover rests, and it works amazingly well. The little extra thickness from the tape makes the cover rock solid.
-
I got my LCR018 in early December, but only had it built up last week. The bike is pretty sweet.
Thank you to whomever recommended a better set of headset bearings from Amazon - I bought those and installed those instead. They were noticeably better than the ones Light Carbon put into the kit, but it was nice to have the LC ones just to make sure I ended up buying the correct size.
I went with Shimano 12 speed, cable-actuated 105.
I'm 5'10", 56 fits me nicely. I have a 90 stem, 38mm wide bars.
-
more shims required maybe?
Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG
But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.
Thanks alot in advance.
-
I got my LCR018 in early December, but only had it built up last week. The bike is pretty sweet.
Thank you to whomever recommended a better set of headset bearings from Amazon - I bought those and installed those instead. They were noticeably better than the ones Light Carbon put into the kit, but it was nice to have the LC ones just to make sure I ended up buying the correct size.
I went with Shimano 12 speed, cable-actuated 105.
I'm awaiting delivery of my LCR018D. What headset bearings did you get from Amazon?
-
But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.
Thanks alot in advance.
Hello, just to be sure, the order of tightening the screws on the cockpit: expander plug -> top cap -> handlebar pinch bolts.
I made the rookie mistake of tightening the pinch bolts first and then the expander plug / top cap. So tightening the top cap in the end always pulls the expander plug out since the handlebar can't move.
-
I'm awaiting delivery of my LCR018D. What headset bearings did you get from Amazon?
Interested in that answer as well, folks on reddit recommended to replace the bearings by stainless steel headset bearing, provided the format MHP16, but no specific model.
Second: does anyone have a suggestion for a wrapper for the hydraulic brake hose?
-
more shims required maybe?
i also had this in mind but did not know that shims for headset are a thing.
Does someone here has experience with this or maybe recommendations for some?
-
Hello, just to be sure, the order of tightening the screws on the cockpit: expander plug -> top cap -> handlebar pinch bolts.
I made the rookie mistake of tightening the pinch bolts first and then the expander plug / top cap. So tightening the top cap in the end always pulls the expander plug out since the handlebar can't move.
Hi, valid question!
I am aware of the correct order and made sure the handlebar bolts were extra loose when tightening the top cap. So i am pretty sure i did the assembling in the right order and also repeated it multiple times to make sure.
But anyway thanks for the advise, mabye helping someone else.
-
Hi guys,
I just finished my new build but am experiencing play in the headset unfortunately. I am sure this was addressed some times earlier here but I did not find a proper solution anyway and hope you can help me.
I am using the bearings from light carbon but the following stem spacers and top cap.: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuoqYTG
But if I tighten the top cap slightly (like normal) I have significant play back and forth in the headset.
The play disappears only if I thighten the top cap >2.5 NM. This makes no sense and also the steering I not rideable stiff.
I double checked the mounting direction of the bearings, they are correct.
The angle of the cut of the fork is not ideal. See attached pictures. Could this be the problem bc the compression plug is not at the right angle if thightend?
Do you have any other ideas what I could try?
Also when mounting everthing multiple times the compression plug became loose it seemed, this seemed also strange to me.
Thanks alot in advance.
Just before tightening the top cap, is there a gap of about 5 mm between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube, that is, the compression plug? I guess you’ve probably already checked this, but if there isn’t enough gap, you’ll need to either add a shim or cut a bit more off the steerer tube. Also, in that case, the compression plug might already be damaged, so it’s worth checking.
-
I'm awaiting delivery of my LCR018D. What headset bearings did you get from Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GGFTQ9?th=1
-
Just finalising my build, has anyone gone for the wheelset Jim recommended to me?
C52DB-RD923-45C-1423,
Inner width 23mm, should fit 30C-45C, I will likely run 32mm most of the time but nice to get the extra width. Not seen anyone really discuss them here, perhaps known under a different name? Option for Sapim spokes which I'll upgrade to if I go for it
-
Just finalising my build, has anyone gone for the wheelset Jim recommended to me?
C52DB-RD923-45C-1423,
Inner width 23mm, should fit 30C-45C, I will likely run 32mm most of the time but nice to get the extra width. Not seen anyone really discuss them here, perhaps known under a different name? Option for Sapim spokes which I'll upgrade to if I go for it
I have inner-width 25mm rims, and the GP 5000's are measuring over 34.65mm wide when on them.
-
Interested in that answer as well, folks on reddit recommended to replace the bearings by stainless steel headset bearing, provided the format MHP16, but no specific model.
...
I would do what I've done in the past, and what I've done on this LC bike: slather synthetic boat-trailer marine-grade grease all over the exterior of the bearings. If water can't get to them, rust won't really be an issue.
-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GGFTQ9?th=1
Big n00b question here, but the frame/headset requires two of these in the same size?
-
After experiencing problems with the storage compartment lid—it rattled and I even lost it once with a water bottle attached—Wendy sent me a new, improved lid free of charge within a week. This one doesn't rattle, fits much better, and the lever stays securely locked in the "locked" position. For me, it's a perfect solution with quick implementation. Great job on excellent service!
Any chance you could send us a picture of what is different between the old and the new? My bike was made in October of 2025, but I only got it together last week. So far, no rattles, but that's only 110 miles ridden.
-
Any chance you could send us a picture of what is different between the old and the new? My bike was made in October of 2025, but I only got it together last week. So far, no rattles, but that's only 110 miles ridden.
The new one has a little “lip” that the lever has to travel over to dock into place - it’s raised up so it stops the lever from travelling back down on its own.
A good improvement and holding up so far here.
-
Big n00b question here, but the frame/headset requires two of these in the same size?
Affirm.
I made the mistake of thinking the order contained two, so had to re-order the second a few days later.
-
Finished building mine, but I absolutely cannot get the rear caliper aligned at all. Have tried another wheel that works in another bike without any issues so I don't think it's a rotor issue. I am worried it's a brake facing issue since I can see the caliper start to tilt as I tighten the bolts down... Anyone else run into this problem?
-
Hello,
Does anyone happen to have a photo of their LCR018-D frame/bike in glossy black? I’ve gone through almost all the pages of the thread, but the only black frames I’ve seen are either matte, raw carbon matte, or raw carbon glossy, but never glossy black.
Thanks in advance 🙂
I just received a picture of mine last week, which should be shipped out this week.
-
Just finalising my build, has anyone gone for the wheelset Jim recommended to me?
C52DB-RD923-45C-1423,
Inner width 23mm, should fit 30C-45C, I will likely run 32mm most of the time but nice to get the extra width. Not seen anyone really discuss them here, perhaps known under a different name? Option for Sapim spokes which I'll upgrade to if I go for it
I also worked with Jim on a wheelset and ended up purchasing the C53DB-URD28-450CRay-24H/24H-UD-M wheels. They should be shipping later this week.
Description:
C53DB Disc 700C carbon CX/Gravel Clincher wheelset.
Rims:NRD28-450C (28mm outer width (21mm inner width). Undulating 45-
50mm height. Clincher (tubeless ready). 24/24H. UD black matte finish.
Hubs:LightCarbon C53DB disc road hubs, ceramic bearings, Ratchet 54T
freehub system;disc brake(center lock).
Sram XDR Cassette body .
Front: M12x100mm, Rear: M12x142mm.
Spokes:Sapim CX-Ray spokes . nipples (black).
-
did she sent free of charge (transportation included)?
Also wondering, as I was "offered" the upgraded version for USD 75 with USD 60 shipping cost - not free at all.
-
Just finalising my build, has anyone gone for the wheelset Jim recommended to me?
C52DB-RD923-45C-1423,
Inner width 23mm, should fit 30C-45C, I will likely run 32mm most of the time but nice to get the extra width. Not seen anyone really discuss them here, perhaps known under a different name? Option for Sapim spokes which I'll upgrade to if I go for it
I went for this wheelset.
Wheelset: C67DB-BRD28-55C-CS2 Butterfly wave matte finish without logo
-
Finished building mine, but I absolutely cannot get the rear caliper aligned at all. Have tried another wheel that works in another bike without any issues so I don't think it's a rotor issue. I am worried it's a brake facing issue since I can see the caliper start to tilt as I tighten the bolts down... Anyone else run into this problem?
mine was quite bad with paint overspray on the front and rear, had to scrape the paint off and fiddle around to get it not to rub.
-
Finished building mine, but I absolutely cannot get the rear caliper aligned at all. Have tried another wheel that works in another bike without any issues so I don't think it's a rotor issue. I am worried it's a brake facing issue since I can see the caliper start to tilt as I tighten the bolts down... Anyone else run into this problem?
same hear. due to paint. Common problem with many frames.
Pro's would use a "Park Tool DT-5.2" or such.
Alternative ways:
- As mentioned before, gently scrape brake mount off on the side that is too high.
- Or sand it off
- hack if it tilts only a little bit: stack a few layers of e.g. electrical tape on top of each other. cut small piece of that off. stick it to the side of brake caliper that is too low. mount. check if ok, otherwise add more
hope that helps
-
Finished building mine, but I absolutely cannot get the rear caliper aligned at all. Have tried another wheel that works in another bike without any issues so I don't think it's a rotor issue. I am worried it's a brake facing issue since I can see the caliper start to tilt as I tighten the bolts down... Anyone else run into this problem?
Yes. Just built mine last week, front and rear brake bosses did the same thing in torquing the caliper to a weird angle. Had to analyze the angle(s) it was setting the caliper wrong, and sanding them flat according based on how each was angled. It takes mounting the caliper, looking, unmounting, sanding, mounting, looking, unmounting, sanding at least twice for each. Make sure whatever you use as a sandpaper backing block is dead flat with no flex, like a small piece of glass.
-
same hear. due to paint. Common problem with many frames.
Pro's would use a "Park Tool DT-5.2" or such.
Alternative ways:
- As mentioned before, gently scrape brake mount off on the side that is too high.
- Or sand it off
- hack if it tilts only a little bit: stack a few layers of e.g. electrical tape on top of each other. cut small piece of that off. stick it to the side of brake caliper that is too low. mount. check if ok, otherwise add more
hope that helps
Hello,
Do you use sand paper on the caliper or on the frame ?
Thank you
-
Hello,
Do you use sand paper on the caliper or on the frame ?
Thank you
Frame.
You may end up sanding what isn't clear coat or paint, so wear a mask and do it outside, then wash up you and your clothes immediately due to the carbon dust.
-
Frame.
You may end up sanding what isn't clear coat or paint, so wear a mask and do it outside, then wash up you and your clothes immediately due to the carbon dust.
Or just spay it with water before and during the sanding, so there are no airborne particles.
No need to over complicate it.
Most of the time you can just use a blade to scrape off the excess paint and the carbon is untouched. The carbon is way harder than you’d think.
-
Ah okay, I am actually relieved to hear it is not too uncommon of an issue. Certainly would appreciate if it were faced properly from the factory but I was more worried about having to get a new frame entirely! What grit sandpaper do you guys use for this?
-
Finished building mine, but I absolutely cannot get the rear caliper aligned at all. Have tried another wheel that works in another bike without any issues so I don't think it's a rotor issue. I am worried it's a brake facing issue since I can see the caliper start to tilt as I tighten the bolts down... Anyone else run into this problem?
Ive just had mine built, and mechanic said he had to face the brakes with some special tool. Ill be posting pics of mine when I get a chance.
Some where in the thread someone had listed all the diff bolt sizes, for a ti switch over. Can anyone recall, and kindly let me know the seat clamp bolt, bottle cages, saddle clamps bolts etc
-
Five separate posters reporting brake mount alignment/facing issues. As someone who's waiting for delivery of a new frame, that's very discouraging. I suppose I'll ask Wendy to check that they're properly faced before they ship the frame.
-
For me, it's a nice surprise when a new frame doesn't need to have the brake mounts and the bottom bracket faced and the threads chased. I take a frame to my LBS and spend the $35-50 to have that done as a matter of course. If the surfaces are fine and need no attention, they're honest enough to tell me so and not charge me for work I don't need. You can buy a $5000 frame and still need to have this done. That may not be ideal, but to demand this of a $600 frame seems unrealistic to me.
-
Five separate posters reporting brake mount alignment/facing issues. As someone who's waiting for delivery of a new frame, that's very discouraging. I suppose I'll ask Wendy to check that they're properly faced before they ship the frame.
I’ve had to do it to a 17k Pinarello and many other “premium” brands when I’ve built up frames.
This is a 700euro frame from China and a very minor inconvenience to resolve. If you’re not able to resolve minor issues yourself, maybe this isn’t the best route to a new bike.
Facing a brake mount means the mount wasn’t properly moulded or was moulded at an angle. What most are talking about in this thread is a minor amount of paint overspray. They are two very different things.
There are quite a few new and inexperienced bike builders who have incorrectly interchange terminology.
-
I wanted to share my experience for those considering a frame from LightCarbon. If you are planning to order, I strongly suggest you double-check and insist on getting a realistic lead time before paying.
Here is my timeline so far:
Order placed: January.
Initial shipping estimate: End of February.
First delay: Pushed to the end of March.
Current status: It is now late April, and the frame still hasn't been shipped.
While the frame itself is finally painted, they now claim they don't have the handlebars in my size. It’s been a cycle of constant delays and moving targets.
It seems LightCarbon is currently overwhelmed by demand and, unfortunately, they are not handling it well—especially when it comes to being transparent with customers about actual production and shipping dates.
-
Five separate posters reporting brake mount alignment/facing issues. As someone who's waiting for delivery of a new frame, that's very discouraging. I suppose I'll ask Wendy to check that they're properly faced before they ship the frame.
For what it's worth, mine is perfect. Headset and BB surfaces as well. Quite a bit better than a few "premium" brands that I worked on.
Did a 150k gravel group ride on it last weekend and we hammered. The bike was superb
-
I wanted to share my experience for those considering a frame from LightCarbon. If you are planning to order, I strongly suggest you double-check and insist on getting a realistic lead time before paying.
Here is my timeline so far:
Order placed: January.
Initial shipping estimate: End of February.
First delay: Pushed to the end of March.
Current status: It is now late April, and the frame still hasn't been shipped.
While the frame itself is finally painted, they now claim they don't have the handlebars in my size. It’s been a cycle of constant delays and moving targets.
It seems LightCarbon is currently overwhelmed by demand and, unfortunately, they are not handling it well—especially when it comes to being transparent with customers about actual production and shipping dates.
I experienced a similar issue but ordered in mid-February. The handlebars also delayed my shipment, but I worked with Jim to order an additional handlebar that was close in size to what I ordered in order to have the shipment sent out this week (I hope). Then I'll get the other handlebars I originally ordered later and will have to remove the temporary bars and install and wrap the new bars.
Of course, I paid for the extra handlebar and shipping, but that was expected. It was a means to get the frame and wheels sent out sooner rather than wait another few weeks.
-
Completed build pics
Size 56
Serenede 50/45 wave wheels
Conti GP5000 32 tubeless
Shimano 105di2 +giant powerpro crankset
Mixed 5d saddle
Onirii bar tape
LFZ pedals
elite vico carbon cages(to be installed)
Weight: 7.8kg
-
you all are lucky, jim does not even reply to my emails :-)
-
I wanted to share my experience for those considering a frame from LightCarbon. If you are planning to order, I strongly suggest you double-check and insist on getting a realistic lead time before paying.
Here is my timeline so far:
Order placed: January.
Initial shipping estimate: End of February.
First delay: Pushed to the end of March.
Current status: It is now late April, and the frame still hasn't been shipped.
While the frame itself is finally painted, they now claim they don't have the handlebars in my size. It’s been a cycle of constant delays and moving targets.
It seems LightCarbon is currently overwhelmed by demand and, unfortunately, they are not handling it well—especially when it comes to being transparent with customers about actual production and shipping dates.
Well, i suppose they prefer oem or mass orders above one piece....the bike has hit some fairs and oem orders seem to be high.....but i agree, ordering january should be early enough to have the bike built and be ready when spring hits
-
Well, i suppose they prefer oem or mass orders above one piece....the bike has hit some fairs and oem orders seem to be high.....but i agree, ordering january should be early enough to have the bike built and be ready when spring hits
around here, there are several "bike brands" selling lightcarbon frames. some are talking about "development" they did and even win awards at bike shows. lol
https://www.airstreeem.at/kopie-von-triple-eee
https://www.lambda-racing.de/lambda-twin-force-road-gravel-rennrad
-
I placed the order on 28th January. Paid on 29th.
Wendy told me that I will receive about March 25th --April 10th.
On March 27, I was told that it would be shipped in mid-April.
Last week I got the photos und this week on monday Wendy send the trackingcode.
-
I placed the order on 28th January. Paid on 29th.
Wendy told me that I will receive about March 25th --April 10th.
On March 27, I was told that it would be shipped in mid-April.
Last week I got the photos und this week on monday Wendy send the trackingcode.
I assume you actively asked for the top tube mounting points, right?
-
I also worked with Jim on a wheelset and ended up purchasing the C53DB-URD28-450CRay-24H/24H-UD-M wheels. They should be shipping later this week.
Description:
C53DB Disc 700C carbon CX/Gravel Clincher wheelset.
Rims:NRD28-450C (28mm outer width (21mm inner width). Undulating 45-
50mm height. Clincher (tubeless ready). 24/24H. UD black matte finish.
Hubs:LightCarbon C53DB disc road hubs, ceramic bearings, Ratchet 54T
freehub system;disc brake(center lock).
Sram XDR Cassette body .
Front: M12x100mm, Rear: M12x142mm.
Spokes:Sapim CX-Ray spokes . nipples (black).
I wouldn't go under 23mm inner width. For larger tyres 32-40mm I would look for 24-26 mm inner. 21mm inner I would considered old school.
-
around here, there are several "bike brands" selling lightcarbon frames. some are talking about "development" they did and even win awards at bike shows. lol
https://www.airstreeem.at/kopie-von-triple-eee
https://www.lambda-racing.de/lambda-twin-force-road-gravel-rennrad
€6200 for a 105Di2 build is disgusting, just as an example but elves offer full builds with an electronic groupset and custom paint for £3300.
-
I assume you actively asked for the top tube mounting points, right?
Yes I did! I dont think it cost more.
Does anyone know a small white Toptube Bag to holt on?
-
Yes I did! I dont think it cost more.
Does anyone know a small white Toptube Bag to holt on?
Damn, i didn't even think about this option while ordering. Would've been nice to see some of the possible options beforehand like with the storage compartment. Now my frame has already been build. :'(
-
I submitted my order earlier this month and just sent Jim a message to see if I could amend mine to include the top tube mounts. I had no idea that was an option, either.
Edit: Jim just told me that it adds 15 days to the delivery timeframe (which at this point might be a meaningless estimate based on what others have said).
-
new to the forum. really appreciate folks posting updates on shipping times, photos, and reviews!
i ordered mine or at least paid 4/4/26 (PayPal). worked with tina who's been very responsive (same day or at most 1 day).
had a couple of weeks of back and forth in making my final paint choices (darker metallic red than ferrari red, fade to clear coated raw carbon, raw carbon LC logo on headtube). not sure if that delayed anything (hopefully not), but told 2 months eta so we'll see. i mean i hope it doesn't turn out to be 4 months, but +/- 2 weeks i'm ok with.
it's honestly pretty awesome to be able to spec so much detail, paint color/fades, frame storage (or top tube mounts apparently), handlebar/stem size, etc when ordering..it's basically a made-to-order custom carbon bike, which is a new experience for me. i added the 53db wheelset in 50mm depth - a great price for decent specs (23mm ID, 1380gm, dt swiss style ratchet hub). also added their ceramic bb bearings, extra downtube storage bag as others have suggested, as well a pair of bottle cages. last little touch was to go for the titanium out front mount. none of the accessories are life changing but are aftermarket accessories it's nice to get upfront. considered adding the elillee carbon cranks but changed my mind last minute
hopefully it rides well. i've got a parlee altum rim brake mechanical shifting bike i got used for $2500 6 years ago. it rides great but limited to 26-27mm measured tires and roads here in LA are rough and my 52yo body is getting beat up. so finally took the leap when this modern endurance aero frame showed up that was affordable.... factor monza and envy fray were on my short lists, but they are so expensive and/or the colors weren't super exciting.
only wish light carbon sold shimano group sets and it could be shipped pre-built. then it'd be perfect. for now, i've got 2 months to shop for a groupset.
XDS/X-Lab entering the us market is going to shake things up even more. i've ordered a set of elite wheels for my mtn bike which was great. and initially was going to get a western brand bike and maybe upgrade to nicer/lighter carbon chinese wheels. but i'm excited to jump on this wave and give LC a try.
ps. i asked tina @ light carbon if my bike could get the hambini level QA treatment and was willing to pay more for it - she said that level of QA was already being done for my LCR18D and included in the price. so here's to faced everything and easy build for my mechanic.
-
new to the forum. really appreciate folks posting updates on shipping times, photos, and reviews!
i ordered mine or at least paid 4/4/26 (PayPal). worked with tina who's been very responsive (same day or at most 1 day).
had a couple of weeks of back and forth in making my final paint choices (darker metallic red than ferrari red, fade to clear coated raw carbon, raw carbon LC logo on headtube). not sure if that delayed anything (hopefully not), but told 2 months eta so we'll see. i mean i hope it doesn't turn out to be 4 months, but +/- 2 weeks i'm ok with.
...
only wish light carbon sold shimano group sets and it could be shipped pre-built. then it'd be perfect. for now, i've got 2 months to shop for a groupset.
...
I ordered on the same day and was told 45-60 days by Jim for delivery. On the groupset front, I've had good dealings with EuroBikeParts on Ultegra groupsets - you can customize just about every component of the groupset to your liking. And, the price is very very reasonable.
-
I ordered mine about a week and a half ago. Wendy told me production will take about a month, painting and logo another 20 working days and delivery 15 working days. I figure the quickest I can expect it to arrive is about 3 months from payment.
-
Affirm.
I made the mistake of thinking the order contained two, so had to re-order the second a few days later.
Both with 45° / 45° ?
-
you all are lucky, jim does not even reply to my emails :-)
I’m still waiting on a reply from an email I sent on April 9 to Chloe on the status of my order. March 4, when I ordering, I was told 2-4 weeks (but I figured 6 week at the soonest). Guess I need to send another message to try again to get an updated timeframe.
-
I've had zero issues with building the bike beside this rear caliper issue. I probably could do it myself, but I've been spending money on replacement adapters in case they were the issues so I'll just take it to the shop to settle it once and for all.
The screws have also been pretty consistent, no concerns from me.
-
Well, i suppose they prefer oem or mass orders above one piece....the bike has hit some fairs and oem orders seem to be high.....but i agree, ordering january should be early enough to have the bike built and be ready when spring hits
I don’t think it’s my concern what or to whom they sell. When I placed my order, I was given a lead time that they significantly failed to meet. Had I known this from the start, I would never have ordered from them.
-
I wouldn't go under 23mm inner width. For larger tyres 32-40mm I would look for 24-26 mm inner. 21mm inner I would considered old school.
absolutely no issue running 21mm rims.
-
Seeing a lot of frustration about lead times on this $700 frame.
Yes, if they say X days, reality might be closer to 2X. Mine arrived about two months later than first promised. Was it annoying? Sure.
But also… perspective matters.
We’re ordering highly customizable carbon frames direct from overseas for a fraction of what big brands charge. Incredible value, tons of options, and a seriously good end product. That combo usually comes with a trade-off somewhere, and in this case it’s patience.
We can’t have premium quality, bargain pricing, full customization AND Amazon Prime speed all at once.
So if your frame is running late: take a breath, ride the bike you already own, maybe stop refreshing tracking for the 14th time today, and remember there are bigger problems in life.
Good things come to those who wait. Mine did.
-
Seeing a lot of frustration about lead times on this $700 frame.
Yes, if they say X days, reality might be closer to 2X. Mine arrived about two months later than first promised. Was it annoying? Sure.
But also… perspective matters.
We’re ordering highly customizable carbon frames direct from overseas for a fraction of what big brands charge. Incredible value, tons of options, and a seriously good end product. That combo usually comes with a trade-off somewhere, and in this case it’s patience.
We can’t have premium quality, bargain pricing, full customization AND Amazon Prime speed all at once.
So if your frame is running late: take a breath, ride the bike you already own, maybe stop refreshing tracking for the 14th time today, and remember there are bigger problems in life.
Good things come to those who wait. Mine did.
I absolutely agree 100%
Add the language barrier and this frame has been way more popular than expected, I think there needs to be some perspective and slack give to LC.
Most of the time it’s the bars that cause the delay in shipping, not the frame.
38-100 bars are extremely popular and they’re causing a backlog in shipping - sure, let’s make lots of 380-100 bars, unfortunately that takes time to get up to speed.
There are 130+ pages of searchable information on the frame and entire process, but somehow people are too lazy to run a quick search for the info.
-
Yeah I was also told upon asking a month ago that delay was caused by the handlebars. They offered other sizes that were still available. Changed to 10mm wider bars and the frameset was sent out the next day. They are very willing to help, but I think it is wise to check every now and then as they didn't contact me about the delay or alternatives.
-
Same delay here due to bars. I asked for a different size as a temp solution for free, they politely declined, and everything showed up about a month late overall. I'm glad I stuck with the 380x110 bars the math said to get. They fit great. Maybe would have been ok on 360 width, or 100 or 120 length. I just didn't want to pay $ to experiment.
The real annoyance is their lack of follow up communication in the delay. I waited about 4 weeks to ask about when it would ship and they had already shipped it. No agreed up pre ship pictures and verification on anything else. It was already out the door and I'm not sure they would have ever bothered to let me know had I not asked.
-
In my opinion, some of you are confusing brand fascination with what is actually happening. Extending a shipping lead time from one month to three or four has absolutely nothing to do with buying a 'premium' or 'custom' product. It’s a clear sign that something went wrong. It looks like LightCarbon (LC) simply decided to prioritize larger orders without bothering to inform individual customers who had already paid.
What’s even worse is the inconsistency. On one hand, people point to the custom paint as an excuse, but on the other, LC claims the delay is due to a handlebar shortage. If a simple handlebar size is holding up an entire frame delivery for months, it makes LC look even more disorganized. How many orders do you have to overbook to turn a 4-week estimate into 16 weeks?
As others have mentioned, the lack of proactive communication is incredibly frustrating. You don't get any info unless you go looking for it. At the same time, there is no option to cancel the order or receive a discount for the massive delay.
At the end of the day, 'great quality' or 'custom paint' means nothing to me if I can't actually ride the bike. I am about to leave for a two-month trip on my old bike. As things stand, I won't see the LC frame until July at the earliest, even if they were to ship it tomorrow. This isn't a premium experience—it's a logistics failure.
-
In my opinion, some of you are confusing brand fascination with what is actually happening. Extending a shipping lead time from one month to three or four has absolutely nothing to do with buying a 'premium' or 'custom' product. It’s a clear sign that something went wrong. It looks like LightCarbon (LC) simply decided to prioritize larger orders without bothering to inform individual customers who had already paid.
What’s even worse is the inconsistency. On one hand, people point to the custom paint as an excuse, but on the other, LC claims the delay is due to a handlebar shortage. If a simple handlebar size is holding up an entire frame delivery for months, it makes LC look even more disorganized. How many orders do you have to overbook to turn a 4-week estimate into 16 weeks?
As others have mentioned, the lack of proactive communication is incredibly frustrating. You don't get any info unless you go looking for it. At the same time, there is no option to cancel the order or receive a discount for the massive delay.
At the end of the day, 'great quality' or 'custom paint' means nothing to me if I can't actually ride the bike. I am about to leave for a two-month trip on my old bike. As things stand, I won't see the LC frame until July at the earliest, even if they were to ship it tomorrow. This isn't a premium experience—it's a logistics failure.
I was told during my ordering that the handlebar I chose would add a couple of months, so I chose a different size handlebar. That's really not an issue to get mad over if it isn't a very common size of handlebar. And it isn't an issue to get mad at if you're a late-comer to the ordering when these frames - and this manufacturer - is becoming really popular. You had the chance to not wait as long by ordering in the middle of 2025, but you didn't. If you waited until the youtubers all proved to you that LC is making great stuff, well, you and thousands of others now want something that the rest of us felt would be a great addition earlier on.
Stop pouting and crying. It works the same when ordering a car or truck that all of a sudden took off in popularity.
-
absolutely no issue running 21mm rims.
You could even go 19mm inner width rims, because we can mount tires to anything - it doesn't mean you're right. Depending on tire size, it could mean that you don't understand what you're doing at all, and that engineering concepts of mounted tire profiles and the aerodynamics of rims to tires befuddle you. That's not something to preach is OK.
-
In my opinion, some of you are confusing brand fascination with what is actually happening. Extending a shipping lead time from one month to three or four has absolutely nothing to do with buying a 'premium' or 'custom' product. It’s a clear sign that something went wrong. It looks like LightCarbon (LC) simply decided to prioritize larger orders without bothering to inform individual customers who had already paid.
What’s even worse is the inconsistency. On one hand, people point to the custom paint as an excuse, but on the other, LC claims the delay is due to a handlebar shortage. If a simple handlebar size is holding up an entire frame delivery for months, it makes LC look even more disorganized. How many orders do you have to overbook to turn a 4-week estimate into 16 weeks?
As others have mentioned, the lack of proactive communication is incredibly frustrating. You don't get any info unless you go looking for it. At the same time, there is no option to cancel the order or receive a discount for the massive delay.
At the end of the day, 'great quality' or 'custom paint' means nothing to me if I can't actually ride the bike. I am about to leave for a two-month trip on my old bike. As things stand, I won't see the LC frame until July at the earliest, even if they were to ship it tomorrow. This isn't a premium experience—it's a logistics failure.
It’s simple. Don’t buy from them if it’s an issue for you. Ask for a refund, and buy something else instead.
-
You could even go 19mm inner width rims, because we can mount tires to anything - it doesn't mean you're right. Depending on tire size, it could mean that you don't understand what you're doing at all, and that engineering concepts of mounted tire profiles and the aerodynamics of rims to tires befuddle you. That's not something to preach is OK.
again 19 mm would make very little difference on the size of the road tyres. Heck I've got 25mm wide rims on my MTB. Started off with 19mm running 2.35 inch tyres without any issue whatsoever. Never held me back. 21 to 23mm is nothing. My OE wheels were 19 mm and my aero wheels are 23mm. There is basically no difference to the look or feel of the tyres.
-
In my opinion, some of you are confusing brand fascination with what is actually happening. Extending a shipping lead time from one month to three or four has absolutely nothing to do with buying a 'premium' or 'custom' product. It’s a clear sign that something went wrong. It looks like LightCarbon (LC) simply decided to prioritize larger orders without bothering to inform individual customers who had already paid.
What’s even worse is the inconsistency. On one hand, people point to the custom paint as an excuse, but on the other, LC claims the delay is due to a handlebar shortage. If a simple handlebar size is holding up an entire frame delivery for months, it makes LC look even more disorganized. How many orders do you have to overbook to turn a 4-week estimate into 16 weeks?
As others have mentioned, the lack of proactive communication is incredibly frustrating. You don't get any info unless you go looking for it. At the same time, there is no option to cancel the order or receive a discount for the massive delay.
At the end of the day, 'great quality' or 'custom paint' means nothing to me if I can't actually ride the bike. I am about to leave for a two-month trip on my old bike. As things stand, I won't see the LC frame until July at the earliest, even if they were to ship it tomorrow. This isn't a premium experience—it's a logistics failure.
You are right about the logistical failures, but I disagree that this should be framed as a 'premium experience' gone wrong. By choosing a budget-friendly, direct-to-consumer route, we are essentially opting out of the premium service layer found with major brands.
At this price point, it’s also understandable that a manufacturer prioritizes bulk shipments over individual orders to keep their business growing. It’s definitely a lack of service, but it's also a reflection of the low entry price we paid. I hope LC continues to grow so they can keep offering these products to us.
-
You could even go 19mm inner width rims, because we can mount tires to anything - it doesn't mean you're right. Depending on tire size, it could mean that you don't understand what you're doing at all, and that engineering concepts of mounted tire profiles and the aerodynamics of rims to tires befuddle you. That's not something to preach is OK.
I always adhere to this: https://www.continental-tires.com/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/ (https://www.continental-tires.com/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/)
-
Which bike brand offers configuration options? Why don’t they? Exactly. Custom paint is one aspect, but offering cockpits in four different widths and six different lengths alone adds significant complexity. One cannot conclude from this that they are unorganized or prioritize bulk shipments. This level of individualization directly reduces predictability in shipping times. That said, I agree they should still communicate this transparently.
-
Regarding current delivery times, i also asked LC, they told me the current batches are all sold out, and 30-45 build time for black option. (Add the 14 days EU shipping I had, custom paint could be more). That also apparently goes for the other frames, Gravel, LCR17.
Handlebars: I also got a list of available stock of handlebars. It varies quite a bite between all combinations of Stem X width, so YMMV for a particular order, but that should not be the bottleneck right now.
I can only agree with other commentors like Schneedolf, NB87 and POTOOOOOOOO: it's not something to expect from a custom ordering at that price bracket. Lightcarbon operates on much slimmer margins than brands that have warehouses full of stock already shipped to your country.
They are also a very small brand, imagine a small/medium company - I only counted about a couple of dozens employees (frame fac/head office), not comparable to the likes of XDS/X-Lab, Giant etc. at all.
Also hard to scale, and from what I gathered they rather want to grow slowly and sustainable to keep quality level high and business risk low (looking at all the brands who fire employees ATM).
But i feel you, Sucks to wait - For sure! I really enjoying it very much, looking forward to my first race next week.
So if you need a frame for this season, that is unfortunately not gonna work.
-
Ride Feedback
Did a regular 30mile (1800ft climbing) loop yesterday on the lcr018d. Already done this route many times on a trek domane and a tarmac sl7, so can compare it between the two. Road surface is poor in places, plenty of climbing in the route. Expectation was for the lcr018d to sit in between the two.
Had a fear the seat post would slip or the front bottle would go flying out due to the cover mechanism, but they never.
Clocked my fastest time , which surprised me. Did have some tailwind on way out, but I've had this before or on the way back. Speed doesn't mean much I know, but I've done this route 10+times each on other bikes. All three bikes weigh about the same.
Climbing: Better than the trek, tarmac being more nimble surpasses this.
Comfort: Better than the Trek and SL7. Delighted with this. This is probably its greatest attribute.
Speed: This bike is not slow !
Hopefully the seat post holds up, will find out in due course.
Negative
I experienced a rattling sound, and it appears its the storage cover. Frame was delivered last year, so must be the first version of it. Really need to get this resolved as otherwise I'm super impressed with the bike.
-
Ride Feedback
Did a regular 30mile (1800ft climbing) loop yesterday on the lcr018d. Already done this route many times on a trek domane and a tarmac sl7, so can compare it between the two. Road surface is poor in places, plenty of climbing in the route. Expectation was for the lcr018d to sit in between the two.
Had a fear the seat post would slip or the front bottle would go flying out due to the cover mechanism, but they never.
Clocked my fastest time , which surprised me. Did have some tailwind on way out, but I've had this before or on the way back. Speed doesn't mean much I know, but I've done this route 10+times each on other bikes. All three bikes weigh about the same.
Climbing: Better than the trek, tarmac being more nimble surpasses this.
Comfort: Better than the Trek and SL7. Delighted with this. This is probably its greatest attribute.
Speed: This bike is not slow !
Hopefully the seat post holds up, will find out in due course.
Negative
I experienced a rattling sound, and it appears its the storage cover. Frame was delivered last year, so must be the first version of it. Really need to get this resolved as otherwise I'm super impressed with the bike.
I agree that this bike is comfortable and definitely not slow! I'm going to use it for racing both gravel and crit and certainly don't feel like I have a disadvantage. Maybe even an advantage because I can sit in an aero position for a long time due to the comfy position.
Regarding the rattling sound, you might want to check the computer mount. That's where I had some rattling sound and had to add some material to prevent it.
I think they have solved the seatpost and cover problems.. I did a 150k gravel ride last weekend and also had 0 issues regarding this. The road was bumpy at times and I'm 85kg, so it was definitely a good test!
-
230k so far this week since building my 18D.
So far 10 KOMs and I prefer it to my Caledonia 5.
Some were previously commenting on the frame stiffness- I’ve found no issues whats so ever. The front end is stiffer than the Caledonia which I thiink is a good comparison.
Hard to judge BB stiffness due to different cranks, wheels and tyres - they all add an element of bend into the mix.
Super impressive - I’d absolutely buy another frame from LC. Kinda makes allot of other more expensive stuff feel rather irrelevant.
Edit to correct typos
-
Great to hear all the positive ride reports coming in.
3000km on the LCR018-D for me now and honestly - its just getting better and better.
Finally getting some decent weather, and I can now see the speed thats been hiding in this frame.
Just set an all time record yesterday on a 32km loop that I do once a week as my "flat out" training ride. (over 60 recorded rides on this exact route).
I didn't just beat my old Aeroad time, I smashed it by 0.5km/hr.....and this is with it in what i'd call comfort mode - I am going to drop the bars by around 1.5cm soon!
The updated storage door is performing great (thanks for the help in getting one Steve!) and since putting some Silca carbon paste on the seat post (highly recommended and worth it over other brands) it has been solid.
I just had a custom Varia mount 3D printed for the seat post which looks really nice - I'll upload a photo once all is installed.
What a bike this is for the money. As mentioned, it's performing so well that im questioning whether to even bother with a flat out aero bike.
It will be very interesting to see what LC have in store for us this year - for the quality they provide at this price point, im prepared to wait as long as it takes! :-)
-
Here is my recently built LCR018-D in size 58, raw carbon color with a glossy finish.
The components used for this build are mostly parts I still had lying around or parts taken from my previous bike.
About myself; I’m 1.92 m tall and have an inseam of approximately 91 cm.
Frame: Size 58 with storage compartment
Handlebar: 400x100
Stem: Zero offset
Groupset: SRAM Rival with Force power meter crankset and Goldix 10-28 cassette
Wheelset: DT Swiss ERC 1100, 45 mm deep
Tires: Conti GP5000S TR 30 mm front, 32 mm rear
Saddle: Ryet Carbon
Bottle cages: Tacx
Bottom bracket: CEMA Ceramic DUB
Handlebar tape: BBB FlexRibbon
Pedals: Look Keo 2 Max
Bike weight = 7.8 kg (pedals, mounts, bottle cages etc included)
Building up the frame went very smoothly. No remarks there at all. The only “downside” is that the steerer tube does not sit flush/horizontal with the top of the stem, which means you cannot place spacers above the stem to experiment with the handlebar height in search of my optimal position. I noticed there is a 3D-printed alternative on the forum, so I’ll try that at some point in the future.
First impressions of the ride quality after about 500 km: I don’t live in a mountainous area, so my feedback is mainly based on rides on flat roads, with the occasional short, punchy climb, as well as rides with a lot of crosswind.
I can only be positive about the frame so far. It feels stiff, comfortable, stable, and in my opinion quite responsive/direct. I can’t really compare it to high-end frames, as I’ve never owned one myself. My previous frame was an Orbea Orca, and the difference compared to that frame is significant. In short: nothing but a big smile so far.
As many others have already mentioned here, I also experienced a creaking seatpost on the first ride. The seatpost that was supplied is the latest version, fully wrapped with friction tape all around. I was able to solve the creaking by adding a small amount of electrical tape around the seatpost, together with the necessary amount of carbon assembly paste.
That was it. Enjoy all riding your bikes this weekend!
-
Iam also happy to report that after 2500km I absolutely love my LightCarbon build.
This is my current setup.
I only changed my wheelset from carbon spokes to steel cxray spokes, I have no idea why but I much prefer feel of steel spokes even thou wheels are 150g heavier and I put 180mm brake rotors thanks to aftermarket UberBike adapters, I think those 180mm rotors are absolutely amazing and if you are maybe 90kg+ I would absolutely recommend to consider them, braking power is amazing, no clicking or ticking sounds even after long descends and rotors and pads looking like new even after those 2500km.
So yeah very happy so far no problems with seatpost or whatnot.
Only thing I regret is not going for raw black glossy paint :), that according to pictures in this thread looks pretty amazing :).
-
Iam also happy to report that after 2500km I absolutely love my LightCarbon build.
This is my current setup.
I only changed my wheelset from carbon spokes to steel cxray spokes, I have no idea why but I much prefer feel of steel spokes even thou wheels are 150g heavier and I put 180mm brake rotors thanks to aftermarket UberBike adapters, I think those 180mm rotors are absolutely amazing and if you are maybe 90kg+ I would absolutely recommend to consider them, braking power is amazing, no clicking or ticking sounds even after long descends and rotors and pads looking like new even after those 2500km.
So yeah very happy so far no problems with seatpost or whatnot.
Only thing I regret is not going for raw black glossy paint :), that according to pictures in this thread looks pretty amazing :).
Nice! could you please link to the exact adaptor you've used, and confirm which caliper you're using exactly? i ve bought the wrong thing before... Interested for the front.
Also, what tyres / size are you running? Are the wheels 50mm?
Thanks!
-
Serge_K: It is exactly this one
https://uberbikecomponents.com/collections/flatmounts/products/uberbike-flatmount-adapter-180mm-front
It comes from UK so I have to pay import tax, there are some other brands making this adapter with just diferent logo, if you search "flatmount 180mm adatper" on google and pick one that looks same as this one you should be fine, it is for standard shimano 105 R7170 caliper.
Those rims are from Farsports 58mm rear, 50mm front.
Tyres are
front: GP5000 32mm (34.3mm measured)
rear: GP5000 STR 32mm (35mm measured)
with TPU inertubes
I build those wheels myself on H-Works SR330 hubs and cx-ray spokes, they came up pretty solid, hands down my favorite wheelset I have ever own.
-
One factor affecting current delivery time may that this model was not on the Lightcarbon website until recently. I want to say it appeared only after Chinese New Year at the end of February but I may be mistaken. I can only assume that orders increased once it was on the website.
-
I can conceive of no acceptable connection between price point and honesty. I don't care if the frame is $700 or $7000. Tell the truth about lead times.
-
Hello!
I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
-
.
Handlebars: I also got a list of available stock of handlebars. It varies quite a bite between all combinations of Stem X width, so YMMV for a particular order, but that should not be the bottleneck right now.
be interesting to know
-
Hello!
I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
Spacers usually come with the crankset, if I remember the PeS had a few
-
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
Spacers usually come with the BB (or maybe crankset).
-
Hello!
I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
Spacer came with Magene crankset. (And i had to use it, because of the space between spiderpm and frame and because of the length of the Pipe, which goes through the BB.)
-
Has somebody any experience about hiding an Apple airtag or similar inside the frame of the bike, in case it is stolen? Any recommendations?
-
Has somebody any experience about hiding an Apple airtag or similar inside the frame of the bike, in case it is stolen? Any recommendations?
do it on my mountain bikes and will be putting on in the storage compartment of this frame when it arrives.
-
Hello!
I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
The bb from lightcarbon came with 3 different sized spacers. I used the thinnest to on the side of my Magene p505 power meter. The specs I found made me question the p505 compatibility with the frame and its t47 bb. It seems to fit without the spacer, but the gap is was pretty narrow. This seems perfect.
-
Someone already thought about a individual designed toolbox like this one:
https://www.printables.com/model/1274183-seatpost-mount-bike-storage-tool-box-easy-edit
Could be a nice ad on for the frame
-
Hello,
I've built my bike with a 105 mechanical groupset and as your are talking about spacers with the BB, mine didn't come with any spacers and I've built it this way. Am I missing something?
-
The only “downside” is that the steerer tube does not sit flush/horizontal with the top of the stem, which means you cannot place spacers above the stem to experiment with the handlebar height in search of my optimal position. I noticed there is a 3D-printed alternative on the forum, so I’ll try that at some point in the future.
I am currently using the 3D spacer that fits on top of the bar/stem. I can confirm it works well. I have been trying to figure out where I want the final stack height.
-
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.
Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?
-
I am currently using the 3D spacer that fits on top of the bar/stem. I can confirm it works well. I have been trying to figure out where I want the final stack height.
Has the 3D file been uploaded here? I don't think I saw it. :P
-
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.
Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?
If it jumps, the small screw is too loose. Tighten it a little more; then you should be able to tighten the preload until it no longer moves.
-
Has the 3D file been uploaded here? I don't think I saw it. :P
Here's a link to that post; https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg100696.html#msg100696
It includes the step file and images that explain the problem.
-
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.
Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?
That's not a spacer, it's the crankset bearing preloader. Loosen the screw on preloader and turn it all the way to the non-drive crank arm. Then tap the center of the drive side crank with a plastic or rubber mallet with mild force to get it in as far as it wants to go. Then turn the preloader til it *just* makes contact with the outside of the bearing cover on the non-drive side. Now tighten the small screw. It only needs to be tight enough to not loosen itself.
-
I installed SRAM BB (DUB T47 Road Bottom Bracket 85.5mm) with SRAM Force E1 2x crankset. Using 3mm spacer that came with BB, my non-drive side has bit of too much empty space. There is no play and I could not move it sideways. Plastic ring is maxed out, and it jumps if tightened more.
Torqued crankset to 54 Nm according to guide. Did I mis something or just need to order extra spacer?
Is there a chance you are using a wide crankset? You shouldn't, since you mentioned 2x, but for DUB non-wide it is just the 3mm spacer. See SRAM spec chart (page 2): https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf (https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf)
-
I have finished my build ca. 2 weeks ago. Everything was easy to put together and there have been no issues so far (ca. 350km ridden).
I saw a lot of people early on mentioning problems with a slipping seatpost. I received the new version with the "grippy surface" all around the seatpost. I used the same approach as with my Cannondale Supersix (which also famously has slipping and creaking issues with the seatpost) and put grease on the frame side of the clamp + grip paste on the seatpost side. Torqued to 6nm I have had no slippage even though the roads here in Britain are quite rough with a lot of pot holes.
So far it seems like the updated version of the seatpost solved the issue?
-
I have finished my build ca. 2 weeks ago. Everything was easy to put together and there have been no issues so far (ca. 350km ridden).
I saw a lot of people early on mentioning problems with a slipping seatpost. I received the new version with the "grippy surface" all around the seatpost. I used the same approach as with my Cannondale Supersix (which also famously has slipping and creaking issues with the seatpost) and put grease on the frame side of the clamp + grip paste on the seatpost side. Torqued to 6nm I have had no slippage even though the roads here in Britain are quite rough with a lot of pot holes.
So far it seems like the updated version of the seatpost solved the issue?
Why grease on the frame side of the clamp?
-
Why grease on the frame side of the clamp?
I usually do it that way too. As shown here.
-
Why grease on the frame side of the clamp?
Its supposed to limit creaking. I really hate the noise of a creaking seatpost so I just do it out of caution
-
Anyone else get the BB (shimano) from lightcarbon and how do they find it?
Creaking/crackling noise is ever present when under load. Removed the storage cover, and took it out, noise is still there.
Edit: Will swap pedals, try to eliminate this.
-
Hi ChinerTown,
Seems like I'm in the same boat as several other buyers regarding the shipping delay, and honestly, it's quite frustrating given my situation.
I have been in contact with LightCarbon almost literally every single week since I placed my order. Two weeks ago, I was told it would ship within one week. Last week, the new estimate moved to two weeks, but that one I can understand as I had switched my color choice from glossy black to raw carbon glossy, so a short additional delay made sense.
What does not make sense, however, is suddenly (today, when I’ve asked an update since it was supposedly the last week) being told to wait until the end of May with no prior warning. That's a one-month delay appearing out of nowhere, and given how closely I have been following up, it feels like this could and should have been communicated much earlier.
Just wanted to share my experience in case it's useful.
-
Anyone else get the BB (shimano) from lightcarbon and how do they find it?
Creaking/crackling noise is ever present when under load. Removed the storage cover, and took it out, noise is still there.
Edit: Will swap pedals, try to eliminate this.
About +90% of all the creaking sound is actually from the ThruAxles. It is also the simpleist fix, so I would try that first. Clean and lube the touching points on ThruAxle/frame, and mount it to correct torque.
I had similar issue that drove me crazy for months. It was also this combo fault, but in my case the derailleur hanger was originally mounted a bit off, and then the ThruAxle was a bit off as well.
-
I have the LCR018-D currently in shipment. It was sent out last week and I ordered in mid February, FWIW.
I also ordered the upgraded CEMA T47 Bottom bracket with ceramic bearings in size 85.5-28.99 for DUB.
The following is a Noob inquiry to tap the group's expertise on SRAM Crankshafts, chainline and bottom brackets.
I plan to use the SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 drivetrain with the following components:
SRAM Cassette XG-1371 XPLR E1 13 Speed 10-46 (part number 00.2418.160.000)
SRAM Force XPLR AXS Rear Derailleur, Black, 13 Speed E1 (part number 00.7518.193.000)
SRAM Force 1 XPLR Power Meter Crankset, Black, 12/13 Speed, DUB Wide, 160mm, 42T, E1 (part number 00.6118.737.000)
In essence, the entire group set will be SRAM Force AXS E1.
The questions I have are related to the bottom bracket spacing.
The SRAM Force E1 cranksets are DUB Wide.
The CEMA bottom bracket from LC is a DUB bottom bracket.
Will this combination work and keep the chainline in proper position?
Will spacers suffice to keep the chainline aligned?
Do I need to purchase a DUB Wide bottom bracket, and if so, what is suggested?
Pic of my frame and related items attached.
-
I have the LCR018-D currently in shipment. It was sent out last week and I ordered in mid February, FWIW.
I also ordered the upgraded CEMA T47 Bottom bracket with ceramic bearings in size 85.5-28.99 for DUB.
The following is a Noob inquiry to tap the group's expertise on SRAM Crankshafts, chainline and bottom brackets.
I plan to use the SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 drivetrain with the following components:
SRAM Cassette XG-1371 XPLR E1 13 Speed 10-46 (part number 00.2418.160.000)
SRAM Force XPLR AXS Rear Derailleur, Black, 13 Speed E1 (part number 00.7518.193.000)
SRAM Force 1 XPLR Power Meter Crankset, Black, 12/13 Speed, DUB Wide, 160mm, 42T, E1 (part number 00.6118.737.000)
In essence, the entire group set will be SRAM Force AXS E1.
The questions I have are related to the bottom bracket spacing.
The SRAM Force E1 cranksets are DUB Wide.
The CEMA bottom bracket from LC is a DUB bottom bracket.
Will this combination work and keep the chainline in proper position?
Will spacers suffice to keep the chainline aligned?
Do I need to purchase a DUB Wide bottom bracket, and if so, what is suggested?
Pic of my frame and related items attached.
Why are you using a wide crank ? You can use the road version and have a nicer chain line.
I know nothing about the LC bottom brackets. I’m not sure why people are buying these over a regular SRAM T47 which works with a more common tool.
-
Why are you using a wide crank ? You can use the road version and have a nicer chain line.
I know nothing about the LC bottom brackets. I’m not sure why people are buying these over a regular SRAM T47 which works with a more common tool.
I'm still learning here.
When I was putting this together I thought the Force E1 1x13 system requires a DUB Wide crank (longer spindle) to achieve the required 47.5mm chainline and using spacers on both sides would work.
I am now questioning this, thus my posting to the group.
I purchased the CEMA bearing because it seemed like a decent quality product for the price that LC was making them available. I'm open to purchasing something else if that would work better. I already have the tooling for installing the CEMA BB.
-
I have the LCR018-D currently in shipment. It was sent out last week and I ordered in mid February, FWIW.
I also ordered the upgraded CEMA T47 Bottom bracket with ceramic bearings in size 85.5-28.99 for DUB.
The following is a Noob inquiry to tap the group's expertise on SRAM Crankshafts, chainline and bottom brackets.
I plan to use the SRAM Force XPLR AXS 1x13 drivetrain with the following components:
SRAM Cassette XG-1371 XPLR E1 13 Speed 10-46 (part number 00.2418.160.000)
SRAM Force XPLR AXS Rear Derailleur, Black, 13 Speed E1 (part number 00.7518.193.000)
SRAM Force 1 XPLR Power Meter Crankset, Black, 12/13 Speed, DUB Wide, 160mm, 42T, E1 (part number 00.6118.737.000)
In essence, the entire group set will be SRAM Force AXS E1.
The questions I have are related to the bottom bracket spacing.
The SRAM Force E1 cranksets are DUB Wide.
The CEMA bottom bracket from LC is a DUB bottom bracket.
Will this combination work and keep the chainline in proper position?
Will spacers suffice to keep the chainline aligned?
Do I need to purchase a DUB Wide bottom bracket, and if so, what is suggested?
Pic of my frame and related items attached.
I also ordered the Cema dub BB from Lightcarbon. In the box is an instruction manual that tells you the amount of spacers needed drive and non drive side for road and wide cranksets. Hope this helps.
-
I'm still learning here.
When I was putting this together I thought the Force E1 1x13 system requires a DUB Wide crank (longer spindle) to achieve the required 47.5mm chainline and using spacers on both sides would work.
I am now questioning this, thus my posting to the group.
I purchased the CEMA bearing because it seemed like a decent quality product for the price that LC was making them available. I'm open to purchasing something else if that would work better. I already have the tooling for installing the CEMA BB.
Ultimately wide is only 5mm longer, so 2.5mm per side. So do as you wish.
I personally hate spacers and try and reduce them being use anywhere on my bikes.
If you already have the tool, then it makes sense to use it.
-
My Feb 11th order just arrived. Was about 1 week shipping time to Montreal, CA so pretty good. Box was beat to hell but the contents seem all good. I'm happy to report a VERY grippy treatment added to the seat post as mentioned a page ago in this thread.
-
I just received the pictures of my frame this week.
Placed the order on 15.03 and shipment should be done today, haven't received the tracking number yet though.
-
Nice finish! I also thought about choosing crystal for more than a second.
And I placed my order 4 days later, so the exiciement grows.
Nice name btw.
-
Hello!
I should be receiving the tracking number for my frame soon, I'm planning to install a 105 Di2 groupset on it along with a Magene P515.
This is the first time I'll be building up a bike. I've bought everything I need, but I have one question I can't find the answer to: I've read/seen that sometimes spacers are required between the crankset and the bottom bracket, could you tell me whether the spacers are included with the LCR018-D frame kit?
Thank you
Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher power (>300W approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?
Thanks guys :-)
-
Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher torque (>300NM approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?
Thanks guys :-)
I think 300NM is a bit too much :)) I guess you meant 30NM hahaha
I know it's a fairly common problem, try following the instructions backwards and trying to install the crankset again. If there's excessive movement, it's never a good sign, and I don't think it's related to the BB.
Try asking Magene himself instead. If you email the seller, they'll get back to you without any problems https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c2vujrgP) :)
-
I think 300NM is a bit too much :)) I guess you meant 30NM hahaha
I know it's a fairly common problem, try following the instructions backwards and trying to install the crankset again. If there's excessive movement, it's never a good sign, and I don't think it's related to the BB.
Try asking Magene himself instead. If you email the seller, they'll get back to you without any problems https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005506880823.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c2vujrgP) :)
Haha ofc i meant >300W. Thanks for your reply!
-
Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher power (>300W approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?
Thanks guys :-)
I have the same BB and crank setup. I can confirm you need the spacer.
No creaks for me, tho i 99% of the time ride at under 300W.
You could try to install the bb again and check the threads. Initially it should thread easy by hand.
-
I have the same BB and crank setup. I can confirm you need the spacer.
No creaks for me, tho i 99% of the time ride at under 300W.
You could try to install the bb again and check the threads. Initially it should thread easy by hand.
OK thanks for your reply! Just to make sure, the spacers go on drivetrain side, correct?
-
I'm not at home right now, if i remember correctly yes i put in on the drive side.
I'll check later and edit this post.
Edit: cant see it on the non-drive side so it has to be on the drive side.
-
Ah, ok.
I ordered an inline and a -15, but I now know I won’t be using the -15 so it’s available.
On previous frames when I’ve encountered slipping, I just spray the lower of the seat post with a few coats of clear coat to evenly add some more thickness.
It usually improves the situation
Helpful tips deserve more praise. In that spirit, I'd like to say a huge thank you for the trick with the clear coat on the seatpost. I also applied several layers of clear coat, and the seatpost, which previously made a terrible creaking noise, is now quiet. I used this one... because I had it at home: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Spray-Bike/Frame-Builder-s-Transparent-Finish-p74147/?o=1000264114-clear-matte-400-ml
-
Helpful tips deserve more praise. In that spirit, I'd like to say a huge thank you for the trick with the clear coat on the seatpost. I also applied several layers of clear coat, and the seatpost, which previously made a terrible creaking noise, is now quiet. I used this one... because I had it at home: https://www.bike-components.de/en/Spray-Bike/Frame-Builder-s-Transparent-Finish-p74147/?o=1000264114-clear-matte-400-ml
Great to know it helped you solve the problem.
-
Has anyone found a portable inflator that fits inside the storage compartment?
-
Hey there! I am farni I am new here.
I already built a gravel bike from the LCG074-D and I loved the process.
I am now planning my endurance build and am currently hesitant about the sizing. I already gathered from this thread that many of you ignored the LC height/size recommandations and often sized one up.
My problem/question:
I followed the LC recommendation on the gravel frame with a 550 and it worked out fine. I could get a good fit and stack and reach are pretty much equal to what I was used to before from my current endurance bike.
On this one, my 183cm height and 87cm inseam suggests me 540. But when comparing my current geo with the one from the LCR018, I get good agreement with 580 - 2 sizes larger! Also in size recomandations from western bike brands I consistently land in the lower 58er range.
My current reasoning: I trust the stack/reach numbers I am confortable with right now, take the 580 and adjust with a slightly shorter stem if needed. I am only a bit afraid that it may just be too huge. What do you think?
-
Hey there! I am farni I am new here.
I already built a gravel bike from the LCG074-D and I loved the process.
I am now planning my endurance build and am currently hesitant about the sizing. I already gathered from this thread that many of you ignored the LC height/size recommandations and often sized one up.
My problem/question:
I followed the LC recommendation on the gravel frame with a 550 and it worked out fine. I could get a good fit and stack and reach are pretty much equal to what I was used to before from my current endurance bike.
On this one, my 183cm height and 87cm inseam suggests me 540. But when comparing my current geo with the one from the LCR018, I get good agreement with 580 - 2 sizes larger! Also in size recomandations from western bike brands I consistently land in the lower 58er range.
My current reasoning: I trust the stack/reach numbers I am confortable with right now, take the 580 and adjust with a slightly shorter stem if needed. I am only a bit afraid that it may just be too huge. What do you think?
Compare them on https://bikeinsights.com/
-
I shoud have mentioned this: I did - extensively.
For exapmple my current bike:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2 (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2)
Can/should I trust this agreement 100%? I am simply scared of the "194 - 199cm" LC assigns to their 58er frame :-\
-
Can't help because my frame hasn't arrived yet, but i got the same "problem".
Body height 186/187cm -> based on that LC recommended a 56cm frame, but:
inseam length 88cm -> the measurement "exceeds their everage calculation range for this size".
Went with the 58cm, because my old gravel bike was even bigger:
https://www.bike-stats.de/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=CUBE_Nuroad%20Race%20FE_2025_L&Bike2=Lightcarbon_LCR018D_2026_58
edit: not bigger, the wheelbase is longer. All in all they are pretty much the same size.
-
I shoud have mentioned this: I did - extensively.
For exapmple my current bike:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2 (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2)
Can/should I trust this agreement 100%? I am simply scared of the "194 - 199cm" LC assigns to their 58er frame :-\
I’m not sure why you have the impression people are sizing up a frame size or two.
However, I’ve said this 20 times on this thread, using height and inside leg measurements to buy frames is absolutely ridiculous, but people keep posting these two measurements thinking it will ensure a good fit.
There is no guarantee your current bike is the correct fit, but if it is, then the 58 is a very close comparison -
However you don’t mention if you have any spacers, stem length, bar reach etc. all play a part in fit.
If you have a turbo trainer, do a free MYvelofit and see what it says about your current position.
-
I went through most entries of this thread that contain a discussion about the frame size and I had the impression that more ppl sized up, rather than down, with a good potion going for the suggested size. But I didnt do a statistical analysis (yet).
Since testing the frame in real life is no option for me (I live in Europe) the only things I can use to estimate the optimal frame size are indeed my dimensions and comparisons to what I know works.
Statistically on average, the rider's height is a good indication of what frame size one needs. It's just a gaussian distribution, some ppl forget sometimes.
I got the current fit from a professional bike fit and feel good with it. I use 2cm of spacers and a 110mm stem. Both details that I would be able to fine tune when starting form a similar geometry on the new bike.
For the final reach, for example, I am planning to calculate what stem length I need, considering the current setup and both handlebar dimensions.
My hesitation comes from the fact that the gravel bike size recommendation from LC was on point, while this one's seems to be way off to me. And I am wondering if I am missing something.
-
If you’ve already had a professional bike fit, use those details to choose the correct size frame.
🤷🏼
-
I shoud have mentioned this: I did - extensively.
For exapmple my current bike:
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2 (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d73cc4852f5c300177f105a,69cf428f8679c1001a45a7dc&builds=69f3b5bbc34bfe001b0889a2)
Can/should I trust this agreement 100%? I am simply scared of the "194 - 199cm" LC assigns to their 58er frame :-\
Keep in the mind the Lightcarbon handlebars have 8mm of rise. So same spacers/front stem, the lightcarbon actually has a higher handlebar contact point that is not reflected in the frame stack.
The 8mm difference in reach can be accounted for with a shorter front stem on the lightcarbon as well.
-
Keep in the mind the Lightcarbon handlebars have 8mm of rise. So same spacers/front stem, the lightcarbon actually has a higher handlebar contact point that is not reflected in the frame stack.
The 8mm difference in reach can be accounted for with a shorter front stem on the lightcarbon as well.
The bars have 8mm of stack and the bearing cap has 10mm, so that makes the reach of both frame within 1 or 2mm of each other. (Can’t be bothered to do the actual calculation)
If he keeps 20mm of additional spacers, the stem should remain 110mm
-
Evening all,
Small but mighty update to the LCR018-D today.
Just received by beta Seattail, mini mudguard which will hopefully keep my jackets from getting destroyed with muck!
https://tt-works.myshopify.com/products/seattail-beta-edition-first-50-units?variant=53166786281810
(https://i.ibb.co/C3Wt5jMM/IMG-2591.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/zHVhbTTD/IMG-2593.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kxs7jPGc/IMG-2594.jpg)
Just fitted and it seems great, so looking forward to giving it a good test over the next few days.
Only problem is it took away my nice saddle mounted Garmin Varia mount, so downloaded and had a model printed from Cults 3D.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/lightcarbon-lcr018-d-garmin-style-light-radar-mount?fbclid=IwdGRjcARjIeNleHRuA2FlbQIxMQBzcnRjBmFwcF9pZAo2NjI4NTY4Mzc5AAEeyL_GKmsfjDM9n6b3euTXR2l9qumYYVozPf5AigkJJ64dvN7rBSLSh0qui-8_aem_IrBaZetgQiM2ncGn-xgkRg
Works fine, but I hate seatpost mounts in general so considering getting a simple GoPro mount and chemically bonding it to the seatpost for a much more integrated look.
(Does anyone know if it’s safe to use chemical metal on carbon fibre, or can anyone em recommend what the best and strongest adhesive would be?!).
-
[...]I’ve said this 20 times on this thread, using height and inside leg measurements to buy frames is absolutely ridiculous, but people keep posting these two measurements thinking it will ensure a good fit.
(https://i.imgflip.com/aqqjf9.jpg)
Not everybody has access to a bike fit, and even if: three bike fitter will tell you three different measurements. Probably even wildely apart from each other. One has to start somewhere to gather experience.
-
The bars have 8mm of stack and the bearing cap has 10mm, so that makes the reach of both frame within 1 or 2mm of each other. (Can’t be bothered to do the actual calculation)
If he keeps 20mm of additional spacers, the stem should remain 110mm
based on his post, i have to assume his current setup has -7 handlebars like LC since he didnt specify. otherwise the comparison is different. 100mm front stem would be closer to account for the reach difference in the bike geo (8mm longer reach on the LC)
-
Add 18mm to the stack of the 18d for the bars and mandatory spacer - then add 20mm of stack for the spacers. With a head angle of 72.5 it brings the bars towards the rider.
-
(https://i.imgflip.com/aqqjf9.jpg)
Not everybody has access to a bike fit, and even if: three bike fitter will tell you three different measurements. Probably even wildely apart from each other. One has to start somewhere to gather experience.
Funny that, the previous bike fits I’ve had over 30 years all pretty much agree within a mm or so.
They were carried out I’m multiple countries, using multiple systems.
That’s why I usually suggest a free MYvelofit assessment on a turbo trainer. As not everyone can see a fitter in person.
Or do nothing and post your height and inside leg measurement and hope for the best.
-
based on his post, i have to assume his current setup has -7 handlebars like LC since he didnt specify. otherwise the comparison is different. 100mm front stem would be closer to account for the reach difference in the bike geo (8mm longer reach on the LC)
Wow, what a detailed comparison! Where can I find this tool?
Regards
-
Has anyone found a portable inflator that fits inside the storage compartment?
Think this should work https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006842456107.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3UZ8dsT)
-
based on his post, i have to assume his current setup has -7 handlebars like LC since he didnt specify. otherwise the comparison is different. 100mm front stem would be closer to account for the reach difference in the bike geo (8mm longer reach on the LC)
Very cool, thanks!
Wow, what a detailed comparison! Where can I find this tool?
+1
-
Wow, what a detailed comparison! Where can I find this tool?
Regards
I made it for my personal use, but glad you found the comparison helpful! Happy to share here: https://bikefitr-3af15.web.app
-
Add 18mm to the stack of the 18d for the bars and mandatory spacer - then add 20mm of stack for the spacers. With a head angle of 72.5 it brings the bars towards the rider.
There is a separate field for the handlebar rise. The assumption is that both fits will have a 10mm headset cap so that is already account for in the calculations. I have also inputted 20mm of spacers for both fits.
Both frames also have nearly identical headtube angles (72.5 vs 72.6). But you also input the headtube angle into the tool for the handlebar x and y calculations.
You can play around with it here: https://bikefitr-3af15.web.app
Of course different components and spacers will change up the calculations, but you should be able to account for nearly all of it.
-
I use a different calculator. Two actually, but they’re are already plenty out there.
-
I use a different calculator. Two actually, but they’re are already plenty out there.
Its a good call to validate using parallel methods. If you share, I'd be happy to try them as well if they are free. Of course comparing frame geo is the starting point, I'm just trying to help him dial in the components. The assumption is just that he also has a 10mm bearing cap on his current bike.
I am simply trying to validate his belief that the contact points will be similar between his current fit and a size 58 LC, provided he goes with the 100m front stem, handlebar angle on his current fit being the same as the HBR17. It is just nice to have a calculator that can account for frame and component geometry, that is also free :)
I'd ignore the LC height recommendation if he has a current fit as the starting point.
-
Think this should work https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006842456107.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3UZ8dsT)
I measured my compartment and it's about 65mm deep, so this might work.
-
I measured my compartment and it's about 65mm deep, so this might work.
My Cycplus is about 50mm deep.
-
My Cycplus is about 50mm deep.
The AS2 ultra Cycplus pump can be stored into the storage compartment.
-
Hi!
I have issues with my Magene P515 and the lightcarbon bb. When installing the crankset first, i head a gap/play to the bb. I installed it with 1-1.5mm (not sure anymore) spacers afterwards and the play was gone. Everything ist tight and runs smooth.
But when going for my first ride, i noticed a creaking, rattling noise on the left side crank when applying higher power (>300W approx) to the left pedal.
Has anyone experience with Magene P515? could it be the BB of the left side is not installed perfectly or is it maybe the preload of the crank arm that is too tight or loose?
Thanks guys :-)
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?
-
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?
I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.
I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.
-
Hi all again,
i still cant fix the issue.
I reinstalled crankset AND bb multiple times, using alot of grease and the correct torque. i also used spacers to eliminate play in the bb. Everything runs smovely and without any noise, when using the small chainring. But when using the big chainring and applying force the left pedal, there are these weird noises. I can rule out the chainring and pedals too, because i also reinstalled them and on the small chainring everything is perfect.
A lot of research let me come to the conclusion, that the BB does seem to not be able to handle the torque/torsion of the crank spindle when using left pedal with big power and using the big chainring.
Has anyone any experiences like this? What else can I try besides buying a new bearing?
Are you sure it isn't your seatpost causing the noise?
Your story sounds very familiar to my own situation right after building my bike. Small chainring (relatively little power) no noise, and large chainring (more power) noises. I could also swear the sound was coming from the bottom bracket, but it turned out to be the seatpost making the noise.
Perhaps a simple question to rule out whether it is the seatpost: Do you also hear the sound when you apply force to your pedals while standing upright? Or only when you are sitting on the saddle?
-
After a bit more than 3 months, I received my new LCR018-D today.
Order Process
26.01.26 - Order placed, size 50 with 380x100 handlebar (estimated shipping mid-March)
04.03.26 - Asked for an update → Frame still waiting for painting
19.03.26 - Asked again for an update → Was told there would be a 25-day delay because of my "special" paint job, which can only be done by one team
14.04.26 - Asked again for an update → Received pictures of the finished frame
15.04.26 - Frame was shipped
22.04.26 - Received my DPD tracking number (after asking again)
04.05.26 - Delivered to me (Germany)
- Time until shipping increased from 2 to almost 3 months
- I always had to ask for updates, although I requested to be informed and to receive QC pictures and the tracking number when available
- Response time from Jim over WhatsApp was always within 12 hours
All in all, the process was an okay experience—not good, not bad. There is definitely room for improvement, especially since the communicated lead times seem unrealistic.
Packaging & Delivery
Packaging was amazing—I've never received a bike so well protected!
Delivery took about 2.5 weeks, which is within the estimated range for shipping to Germany. However, it was a surprise, as my DPD tracking still shows the package in transit. It seems it got a new tracking number once it arrived in Europe (although even the new tracking number doesn't show that it was delivered today) ;D
I'm not sure if LC could have done anything about this (not sure if they were informed about the new tracking number), but I think it's worth mentioning.
Frame Impression
The frame feels and looks excellent. The visible carbon surfaces inside seem very smooth.
The storage lid feels premium and not as bad as you might expect from reading this thread (however, I cannot confirm or deny how it behaves on the road yet). The lever has a satisfying click when you close it completely (maybe some people didn’t fully close it?).
Paintjob
I decided to go for deep ocean blue with glittering gold decals. This combination had the potential to look amazing, but if done wrong or if the colors were off, it could also look bad.
I was positively surprised when I first saw the frame. The combination looks perfect—the glittering gold is slightly on the yellow side with very fine glitter (see my attached pictures). You can only see the glitter when looking closely; it's not "too much" in my opinion (feared it could be). Very happy with my decision.
The quality of the paint job looks very good as well. There is some minor overspray at the fork caliper mounts, but nothing to worry about.
What's coming next
Today I coated the frame and fork with ceramic coating (Dynamic Secret Surface) and will build it the next day (main specs: Shimano 105 Di2, Elitewheels Edge 3.0, Continental GP5000 STR 32mm, Magene P515 power meter).
As this is my first road bike (after MTB and gravel), I'm really excited to test it as soon as possible :)
-
I have something similar with my cheap Think Rider Alu Crank set (L165mm/D24mm) and power meter, normal pedaling is fine, but as soon you put a bit more power into it, you hear a chain rub on one spot of the chainring. I assume it's the cheap crank set in my case.
I had the same with a RIRO carbon crank set (L165/D29), which i had installed with a cheap ceramic BB. In this case it was the BB itself, it had to much play, even when pre-loaded correctly you could basically twist the axle in the BB shell. I have to make a picture of the spindle later today, because there is a specific wear pattern on the spindle (paint), which is 180° appeared on left and right of it.
So for now I'm waiting to get some other crank with D24mm in carbon and maybe a power meter to replace the Think Rider alu one.
But you can see on the D29mm spindle that there was a lot of play on the ball bering, otherwise the wear pattern would look like this. At least i think that the ball bearing was the culprit.
-
I’ll probably order their 2026 aero bike and get this colour combination, but silver into raw carbon.
Looks really good
Pics are finally available. It’s also on the Nero show this week.
https://de.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/downloads/2026-2027%20LightCarbon%20Frame+Component%20Catalog%20-V1.pdf (https://de.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/downloads/2026-2027%20LightCarbon%20Frame+Component%20Catalog%20-V1.pdf)
I’ve started a dedicated thread to keep this one 18-D focused
-
With gp5000 STR in 35mm, I got 6mm clearance on left side and only 4mm on driveside. It's the same with two different XMCS wheelsets. Is it within acceptable margins?
-
With gp5000 STR in 35mm, I got 6mm clearance on left side and only 4mm on driveside. It's the same with two different XMCS wheelsets. Is it within acceptable margins?
4mm is absolutely fine.
It’s actually the industry minimum, so you don’t need to worry about anything.
-
4mm is absolutely fine.
It’s actually the industry minimum, so you don’t need to worry about anything.
I'm fine with the clearance, but what about the difference? I guess it's just 1mm off from 5mm-5mm to 6mm-4mm.
-
I'm fine with the clearance, but what about the difference? I guess it's just 1mm off from 5mm-5mm to 6mm-4mm.
Mine is the same with various sets of wheels. Even my Cervelos are uneven so nothing to worry about.
Cannondales have been horrendous for this in the past ( and I’m not talking about their offset chain stays )
-
has anyone recently tried to order the LCR018-D and what are the response times when communicating with LC?
I sent an email enquiry on sunday but didnt hear anything at all in 24 hours. So I got the emails of Jim, Wendy and carol from this thread and sent them separately in the hope they will respond but I've still not heard anything yet.
I'm wondering if the demand of the LCR018-D is high so they are not as quick to respond.
-
has anyone recently tried to order the LCR018-D and what are the response times when communicating with LC?
I sent an email enquiry on sunday but didnt hear anything at all in 24 hours. So I got the emails of Jim, Wendy and carol from this thread and sent them separately in the hope they will respond but I've still not heard anything yet.
I'm wondering if the demand of the LCR018-D is high so they are not as quick to respond.
Sunday. Be patient ;)
-
has anyone recently tried to order the LCR018-D and what are the response times when communicating with LC?
I sent an email enquiry on sunday but didnt hear anything at all in 24 hours. So I got the emails of Jim, Wendy and carol from this thread and sent them separately in the hope they will respond but I've still not heard anything yet.
I'm wondering if the demand of the LCR018-D is high so they are not as quick to respond.
Its a small operation so they're likely busy with the China Cycle Show going on now on top of being slammed with orders.
In addition to the new aero road bike, I've noticed that they're also coming out with non-eagle-eye versions of this frame and their new aero gravel. UCI compliance related?
-
Its a small operation so they're likely busy with the China Cycle Show going on now on top of being slammed with orders.
In addition to the new aero road bike, I've noticed that they're also coming out with non-eagle-eye versions of this frame and their new aero gravel. UCI compliance related?
Hello, where did you see that please ?
-
(https://i.imgur.com/APqYRQ8.png)
Loving the bike so far, but the downtube compartment lid (v2?) fell off today and left a deep gash in the paint. >:( >:(
-
Hello, where did you see that please ?
I received a different catalog than what Zealot posted in the LCR020 thread. It was marked as a B2B PDF so they might have sent it by accident.
-
new to the forum. really appreciate folks posting updates on shipping times, photos, and reviews!
i ordered mine or at least paid 4/4/26 (PayPal). worked with tina who's been very responsive (same day or at most 1 day).
had a couple of weeks of back and forth in making my final paint choices (darker metallic red than ferrari red, fade to clear coated raw carbon, raw carbon LC logo on headtube). not sure if that delayed anything (hopefully not), but told 2 months eta so we'll see. i mean i hope it doesn't turn out to be 4 months, but +/- 2 weeks i'm ok with.
it's honestly pretty awesome to be able to spec so much detail, paint color/fades, frame storage (or top tube mounts apparently), handlebar/stem size, etc when ordering..it's basically a made-to-order custom carbon bike, which is a new experience for me. i added the 53db wheelset in 50mm depth - a great price for decent specs (23mm ID, 1380gm, dt swiss style ratchet hub). also added their ceramic bb bearings, extra downtube storage bag as others have suggested, as well a pair of bottle cages. last little touch was to go for the titanium out front mount. none of the accessories are life changing but are aftermarket accessories it's nice to get upfront. considered adding the elillee carbon cranks but changed my mind last minute
hopefully it rides well. i've got a parlee altum rim brake mechanical shifting bike i got used for $2500 6 years ago. it rides great but limited to 26-27mm measured tires and roads here in LA are rough and my 52yo body is getting beat up. so finally took the leap when this modern endurance aero frame showed up that was affordable.... factor monza and envy fray were on my short lists, but they are so expensive and/or the colors weren't super exciting.
only wish light carbon sold shimano group sets and it could be shipped pre-built. then it'd be perfect. for now, i've got 2 months to shop for a groupset.
XDS/X-Lab entering the us market is going to shake things up even more. i've ordered a set of elite wheels for my mtn bike which was great. and initially was going to get a western brand bike and maybe upgrade to nicer/lighter carbon chinese wheels. but i'm excited to jump on this wave and give LC a try.
ps. i asked tina @ light carbon if my bike could get the hambini level QA treatment and was willing to pay more for it - she said that level of QA was already being done for my LCR18D and included in the price. so here's to faced everything and easy build for my mechanic.
Can I ask what is the darker than ferrari red colour you have chosen? The standard ferrari red shown previously in this thread looks good but I'm also intrigued on your selection. What was the approx uplift in cost over the standard supply colour?
-
I received a different catalog than what Zealot posted in the LCR020 thread. It was marked as a B2B PDF so they might have sent it by accident.
Care to share? Sharing is caring! ;D
-
If it’s B2B it’s probably never going to sold as a Lightcarbon direct to consumer.
They also sell designs to other companies and manufacturer on their behalf too.
-
If it’s B2B it’s probably never going to sold as a Lightcarbon direct to consumer.
They also sell designs to other companies and manufacturer on their behalf too.
I know that, I'm just curious to see what they offer... 8)
-
Can i check what have people paid for in the past for selection of alternative paint options?
I got a price from LC for standard black matte (no decal) and if I want an alternative colour (i.e. ferrari red), the uplift is $250USD which seems higher than what I've seen in previous posts (somewhere in region of $120usd??)
-
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some geometry advice on the LightCarbon LCR018 frameset as I have quite extreme body proportions and I’m struggling to pick the right size and stem length for my build. My current bike is a size 61, which was a result of some bad advice from a friend, and it's definitely way too big for me.
My height is 182 cm with a 92 cm inseam, which means I have very long legs relative to my height. I am also recovering from ACL surgery, so I need a stable setup that is not too punishing on the knee while remaining fast.
Looking at the geometry chart for the LCR018-D, size 540 has a reach of 383 mm and a stack of 569 mm, whereas size 560 offers a reach of 389 mm and a stack of 586.8 mm. My main concern is that with a 92 cm inseam, my saddle height will be very high and on a size 540, the saddle-to-handlebar drop would be massive. I am leaning towards the size 560 to benefit from the extra 17.8 mm of stack height, but I am worried about the 389 mm reach being too long for my relatively short torso.
I am considering using a shorter stem, perhaps 90 mm or 100 mm from the available options, to compensate for the longer reach on the 560 frame and I wonder if anyone with similar 'all legs' proportions has experience with a shorter stem on this specific integrated cockpit.
Given that the LCR018 has a fully integrated cable routing system and a specific cockpit setup, would you suggest doing a professional bike fit before ordering the frame and handlebar, or is this geometry standard enough to adjust later? If anyone with a 90+ cm inseam has built this frame, I would love to hear what size and stem length you chose to avoid feeling too stretched out while keeping the front end high enough.
Thanks!
-
YS3293. honestly i had googled ferrari red and it looked lighter and flatter than i wanted. so i asked about a picking a darker, richer red similar to like the mazda miata soul red. ended up with paint code YS3293. but after finding this forum and seeing folks' posts of their light carbon ferrari red, it's actually pretty much what i wanted! :-). so i've reached back out to see if it's not too late to just get my bike in ferrari red.
no change in price.
Can I ask what is the darker than ferrari red colour you have chosen? The standard ferrari red shown previously in this thread looks good but I'm also intrigued on your selection. What was the approx uplift in cost over the standard supply colour?
-
i'm similar height with slightly shorter legs 84cm inseam. with riding shorter (165mm) cranks, i have raised my saddle a bit and with my decreased flexibility with age have gone from 100mm to 90mm stems on my current road bike. these are te reasons i was looking for an endurance geo bike like the LCR018. i ordered a 90x400 bar. haven't gotten it yet, but i'm hopeful it will work out. apparently the bar has some rise built in as well, which should help you out and minimize spacers.
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some geometry advice on the LightCarbon LCR018 frameset as I have quite extreme body proportions and I’m struggling to pick the right size and stem length for my build. My current bike is a size 61, which was a result of some bad advice from a friend, and it's definitely way too big for me.
My height is 182 cm with a 92 cm inseam, which means I have very long legs relative to my height. I am also recovering from ACL surgery, so I need a stable setup that is not too punishing on the knee while remaining fast.
Looking at the geometry chart for the LCR018-D, size 540 has a reach of 383 mm and a stack of 569 mm, whereas size 560 offers a reach of 389 mm and a stack of 586.8 mm. My main concern is that with a 92 cm inseam, my saddle height will be very high and on a size 540, the saddle-to-handlebar drop would be massive. I am leaning towards the size 560 to benefit from the extra 17.8 mm of stack height, but I am worried about the 389 mm reach being too long for my relatively short torso.
I am considering using a shorter stem, perhaps 90 mm or 100 mm from the available options, to compensate for the longer reach on the 560 frame and I wonder if anyone with similar 'all legs' proportions has experience with a shorter stem on this specific integrated cockpit.
Given that the LCR018 has a fully integrated cable routing system and a specific cockpit setup, would you suggest doing a professional bike fit before ordering the frame and handlebar, or is this geometry standard enough to adjust later? If anyone with a 90+ cm inseam has built this frame, I would love to hear what size and stem length you chose to avoid feeling too stretched out while keeping the front end high enough.
Thanks!
-
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some geometry advice on the LightCarbon LCR018 frameset as I have quite extreme body proportions and I’m struggling to pick the right size and stem length for my build. My current bike is a size 61, which was a result of some bad advice from a friend, and it's definitely way too big for me.
My height is 182 cm with a 92 cm inseam, which means I have very long legs relative to my height. I am also recovering from ACL surgery, so I need a stable setup that is not too punishing on the knee while remaining fast.
Looking at the geometry chart for the LCR018-D, size 540 has a reach of 383 mm and a stack of 569 mm, whereas size 560 offers a reach of 389 mm and a stack of 586.8 mm. My main concern is that with a 92 cm inseam, my saddle height will be very high and on a size 540, the saddle-to-handlebar drop would be massive. I am leaning towards the size 560 to benefit from the extra 17.8 mm of stack height, but I am worried about the 389 mm reach being too long for my relatively short torso.
I am considering using a shorter stem, perhaps 90 mm or 100 mm from the available options, to compensate for the longer reach on the 560 frame and I wonder if anyone with similar 'all legs' proportions has experience with a shorter stem on this specific integrated cockpit.
Given that the LCR018 has a fully integrated cable routing system and a specific cockpit setup, would you suggest doing a professional bike fit before ordering the frame and handlebar, or is this geometry standard enough to adjust later? If anyone with a 90+ cm inseam has built this frame, I would love to hear what size and stem length you chose to avoid feeling too stretched out while keeping the front end high enough.
Thanks!
I'm 183 with 89cm inseam. So also long legs but a bit less extreme as you.
Ive chosen the 54 with 120mm stem and it's ok for me. Maybe a bit short. Ive got the bar completely slammed and don't feel the saddle to handlebar drop is aggressive at all.
I'm thinking that I could also make the 56 fit me well (maybe better) by choosing a non riser bar and 110mm stem.
That being said, I'm quite flexible and adaptable. I also have no clue what your riding style is and how flexible you are.
So bottom line, how I fit on the bike, with kind of similar proportions, is hard to compare because we could be comparing apples to oranges. A bikefit is always a good idea if you're unsure and don't have a decent baseline to go off.
-
Do you know how much the cost was for the selection of colour over the base option?
I’ve been quoted $250USD over and above what it would cost if it was supplied in plain black matte with no decal and wondering if this is the standard extra cost because it seems higher than what I thought it would be.
YS3293. honestly i had googled ferrari red and it looked lighter and flatter than i wanted. so i asked about a picking a darker, richer red similar to like the mazda miata soul red. ended up with paint code YS3293. but after finding this forum and seeing folks' posts of their light carbon ferrari red, it's actually pretty much what i wanted! :-). so i've reached back out to see if it's not too late to just get my bike in ferrari red.
no change in price.
-
i got a single quote of $950 for frame, bar, seatpost and custom paint $950. i never asked for a quote for plain matte black. this was 4/4/26 for context because perhaps prices have increased as demand and backlog has increased. even as i changed the paint color, customized where i wanted the fade to clearcoated carbon, location of LC logo/decal, the price didn't change. this is before shipping/paypal.
given i've seen quotes of $650 for the frameset when it was first released, $250 for custom paint doesn't seem far fetched...still a lot less than other manufacturers (ie. $600 for factor's prisma or $700 for trek's project one)
Do you know how much the cost was for the selection of colour over the base option?
I’ve been quoted $250USD over and above what it would cost if it was supplied in plain black matte with no decal and wondering if this is the standard extra cost because it seems higher than what I thought it would be.
-
Care to share? Sharing is caring! ;D
-
Just an update, was able to get my bike faced which resolved the brake rubbing issue. Can't complain too much for how nice the bike is!
-
@vietmunki thanks! These last days I've seen a bike somewhere on YT/IG that I imediately identified as a clone of my LCR018, without the "eagle eye"/whatever they call it thingys! I thought it was already copied by another carbon factory but this explains it and I guess we will start to see a lot more of these B2B models with other brands on the frame...
I like these frame versions even more compared to the consumer models! :-[
-
Maybe a little optimistic but I hope the LCR020 seat post will fit the 018. I much prefer the clamping style pictured on that over the 018's seat post. Here is to hoping!
-
So whats the info regarding the LCR019-D? Will this available for purchase at some point?
Geo looks to be identical to the LCR018. As I'm contemplating the LCR018 currently, I'm wondering if I should hold out for the 019.
-
So whats the info regarding the LCR019-D? Will this available for purchase at some point?
Geo looks to be identical to the LCR018. As I'm contemplating the LCR018 currently, I'm wondering if I should hold out for the 019.
I've no idea. Definitely wasn't meant to be shared with me and is likely for B2B only. I just wanted to bring it up for conversation/transparency purposes. It looks like they're coming out with a lot of frames over the next year.
-
i got a single quote of $950 for frame, bar, seatpost and custom paint $950. i never asked for a quote for plain matte black. this was 4/4/26 for context because perhaps prices have increased as demand and backlog has increased. even as i changed the paint color, customized where i wanted the fade to clearcoated carbon, location of LC logo/decal, the price didn't change. this is before shipping/paypal.
given i've seen quotes of $650 for the frameset when it was first released, $250 for custom paint doesn't seem far fetched...still a lot less than other manufacturers (ie. $600 for factor's prisma or $700 for trek's project one)
$699 for standard matt finish and no decals
$950 for painted and decals.
-
Do you know how much the cost was for the selection of colour over the base option?
I’ve been quoted $250USD over and above what it would cost if it was supplied in plain black matte with no decal and wondering if this is the standard extra cost because it seems higher than what I thought it would be.
It is standard for certain paint schemes but there were a slew of different options and prices back when I asked. I paid $120 for 2 colors, matte black and glossy black. Best to ask LC for the latest prices.
-
$699 for standard matt finish and no decals
$950 for painted and decals.
This is what I’ve been quoted too. I asked what if I just wanted some decals added to the standard black matte option and was told then it would be $950usd as well.
I’ve seen some other members pay only the $120usd uplift for Ferrari red which is the colour I’m interested in. So it seems that LC have also recently increased the price for painted options whether it’s basic or special colours.
-
This is what I’ve been quoted too. I asked what if I just wanted some decals added to the standard black matte option and was told then it would be $950usd as well.
I’ve seen some other members pay only the $120usd uplift for Ferrari red which is the colour I’m interested in. So it seems that LC have also recently increased the price for painted options whether it’s basic or special colours.
Another no cost option is the raw carbon frame with either matt or glossy finish.
-
Picked up my frame yesterday from DPD.
-
I’m pretty much ready to place an order for my frame and just wanted to sense check my frame size choice. I’m 179cm tall with an in seam of 83cm. On most other manufacturers sizing guide I would choose a size M or 54cm and checking with the geo comparison site the M seems ok. However the sizing guide on LC website I fall into size 52 (s) albeit on the upper limit. So just wanted to check here that owners are happy with their sizes and maybe their guide is not accurate for selection.
-
I’m pretty much ready to place an order for my frame and just wanted to sense check my frame size choice. I’m 179cm tall with an in seam of 83cm. On most other manufacturers sizing guide I would choose a size M or 54cm and checking with the geo comparison site the M seems ok. However the sizing guide on LC website I fall into size 52 (s) albeit on the upper limit. So just wanted to check here that owners are happy with their sizes and maybe their guide is not accurate for selection.
Some more photos.
I am 178 and went for 54 with 100mm Cockpit. Fine for me.
-
I’m pretty much ready to place an order for my frame and just wanted to sense check my frame size choice. I’m 179cm tall with an in seam of 83cm. On most other manufacturers sizing guide I would choose a size M or 54cm and checking with the geo comparison site the M seems ok. However the sizing guide on LC website I fall into size 52 (s) albeit on the upper limit. So just wanted to check here that owners are happy with their sizes and maybe their guide is not accurate for selection.
If you have other bikes that you know fit you, go to a site like https://bikeinsights.com/ and compare them to the various sizes of LCR018-D. The nice thing about https://bikeinsights.com/ is that it gives you a scaled visual comparison which is very helpful. I ride an M Giant, a 54 Trek, and opted to get a 520 LCR018-D.
-
Hey,
By any chance, do you know a frame which would have a similar Geometry compared to the LCR018-D please? (a popular brand like Canyon, Specialized, Giant... so i can try them in a shop)
Thanks
-
I’m pretty much ready to place an order for my frame and just wanted to sense check my frame size choice. I’m 179cm tall with an in seam of 83cm. On most other manufacturers sizing guide I would choose a size M or 54cm and checking with the geo comparison site the M seems ok. However the sizing guide on LC website I fall into size 52 (s) albeit on the upper limit. So just wanted to check here that owners are happy with their sizes and maybe their guide is not accurate for selection.
I am 172cm with 85.8cm inseam and went with the 52 with 90mm stem based on my fitter's recommendation. We talked about the size 50 as well with a 100mm stem but the stack was going to be getting pretty low and I would need a lot of spacers. Your body proportions are going to dictate a lot if your an in betweener. I apparently have longer legs than what is typical for my height so I have to run the saddle higher which leads to more handlebar drop so I need more stack of the 52. People usually suggest sizing down when in doubt and adjusting from there but for me, it would be going the wrong way. Best thing to do other than a bike fit, in my opinion, is look up at least Stack and Reach of other bikes you've ridden and compare.
Also, if you do order, do keep in mind that they are still having delays with handlebars. I got an email early last week with pictures of my frame being complete and painted but was told yesterday that handlebars are still 3 weeks out from now. I only ordered it 3 weeks ago and I see people have had a lot longer delays so I can't complain.
Hey,
By any chance, do you know a frame which would have a similar Geometry compared to the LCR018-D please? (a popular brand like Canyon, Specialized, Giant... so i can try them in a shop)
Thanks
Enve Fray I think is almost idenctical
-
I am 172cm with 85.8cm inseam and went with the 52 with 90mm stem based on my fitter's recommendation. We talked about the size 50 as well with a 100mm stem but the stack was going to be getting pretty low and I would need a lot of spacers. Your body proportions are going to dictate a lot if your an in betweener. I apparently have longer legs than what is typical for my height so I have to run the saddle higher which leads to more handlebar drop so I need more stack of the 52. People usually suggest sizing down when in doubt and adjusting from there but for me, it would be going the wrong way. Best thing to do other than a bike fit, in my opinion, is look up at least Stack and Reach of other bikes you've ridden and compare.
Also, if you do order, do keep in mind that they are still having delays with handlebars. I got an email early last week with pictures of my frame being complete and painted but was told yesterday that handlebars are still 3 weeks out from now. I only ordered it 3 weeks ago and I see people have had a lot longer delays so I can't complain.
Enve Fray I think is almost idenctical
Thank you :)
Also, does anyone know the exact thru axels sizes ? I would like to use it on and old home trainer but i do need a tru axle adapter
-
I got quoted an extra $255 for a single pantone colour. Is this their current pricing ? At that price I'll either go for the boring UD option or choose another frame altogether. I don't mind paying extra for paint but $255 for a single colour is robbery. Other manufacturers like Mondince include basic painting in their cost.
-
I guess they wanted to simplify the calculation, becaus the information I got in January was a bit complicated
if add the logo, paint cost is USD$100
Custom painting is charged by color, USD$125/set with one pantone color or USD$145/set with one chameleon color or USD$189 with one crystal color. For each additional color, the cost increases by USD35. When the color changes suddenly, one more color will be counted.
Logo cost also according the colors, USD$35/color, one sheet of logo can use for 5-10 frames,
For my color schema with Deep Ocen Blue and glittering gold decals it was 215$, which fit in the above calculation, but its a bit weird (one pantone + one extra color + decals?).
From a commercial perspective I totally understand their price increase (full order books, growing customer base, developing new stuff continuously,..). The product seems worth it from my perspective, and there a lots of chinese carbon frames with much higher prices, so its still competitive.
-
I see from the photos here that most owners have the 0 offset seat post option (which LC also say is their default choice), what's the basis selecting this as I thought most bikes comes with an offset post for balance/weight distribution. My understanding is 0 offset is if there are fitment issues but may compromise weight distribution (causing weight too forward).
Also, has anyone ordered and paid through Paypal gift (friend & family) option to save the 4.5%? Aware there are risks associated with this if things go wrong, but LCs customer service response shown in this seems to be good so wondering if anyone has paid this route.
-
I guess they wanted to simplify the calculation, becaus the information I got in January was a bit complicated
For my color schema with Deep Ocen Blue and glittering gold decals it was 215$, which fit in the above calculation, but its a bit weird (one pantone + one extra color + decals?).
From a commercial perspective I totally understand their price increase (full order books, growing customer base, developing new stuff continuously,..). The product seems worth it from my perspective, and there a lots of chinese carbon frames with much higher prices, so its still competitive.
Thanks for the insight. It looks like they have significantly increased their painting prices. My quote of $255 was for up to 3 colours and when I clarified I only wanted a single colour they said it was the same price.
-
giant defy
Hey,
By any chance, do you know a frame which would have a similar Geometry compared to the LCR018-D please? (a popular brand like Canyon, Specialized, Giant... so i can try them in a shop)
Thanks
-
I have an unused inline Version 2 seatpost for sale in the sales section - if anyone needs one.
Happy to swap for a V2 offset post
-
However the sizing guide on LC website I fall into size 52 (s) albeit on the upper limit. So just wanted to check here that owners are happy with their sizes and maybe their guide is not accurate for selection.
Can you link to the size guide? For some reason I'm having trouble finding it on their website. User error I'm sure...
-
Can you link to the size guide? For some reason I'm having trouble finding it on their website. User error I'm sure...
There are more tabs down on the page:
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022 (https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab022)
-
I see from the photos here that most owners have the 0 offset seat post option (which LC also say is their default choice), what's the basis selecting this as I thought most bikes comes with an offset post for balance/weight distribution. My understanding is 0 offset is if there are fitment issues but may compromise weight distribution (causing weight too forward).
Also, has anyone ordered and paid through Paypal gift (friend & family) option to save the 4.5%? Aware there are risks associated with this if things go wrong, but LCs customer service response shown in this seems to be good so wondering if anyone has paid this route.
The set back affects the placement of your knees relative to the bottom bracket/crank axle. And also your distance to the handle bar. Talk to your bike fitter. And/or order both options. The price of an extra seat post is pretty modest.
-
Today was Marly Grav. A 150 km gravel race through the south of the Netherlands, right in the Amstel Gold Race region.
It’s a UCI event where mere mortals get to race the same roads as riders like WvA. He won it in 4:08. The 150 km with 1800 m of elevation took me about an hour longer 😬
I’ll spare you the full race story, but I thought it would be interesting to share some thoughts on the bike after putting it through a proper test today.
Setup:
• Size 54 frame
• 380/120 cockpit
• Frame storage version (delivered early April, so updated seatpost + storage cover version)
• Zen 60/55 wheels, 24 mm internal width, 20 spokes front/rear, 3.1 mm
• Rear tire: Vredestein Aventura Seta 38 mm
• Front tire: Schwalbe G-One Allround 40mm
• 105 Di2 with GRX820 rear mech
• Ali carbon 165 mm cranks (forgot the brand, might update later)
• 52/36 Stone chainrings
• Ultegra 11-34 cassette
Positives:
The setup of the bike felt almost perfect. Apart from the rear wheel stiffness issue (that’s another story), I honestly can’t think of much I’d change.
This thing is FAST. The wheels definitely help, but especially once speeds go up on descents, the bike really comes alive. I could fully feed off those moments 😈
Handling is very good too. I usually do well once roads get more technical and twisty, and this bike absolutely rewards that.
And yeah… it looks amazing.
Negatives:
The saddle clamp system. Bloody hell, that was frustrating.
About 5 km in, I hit a bump and the saddle tilted. I was fully in race mode near the front of my age group, so stopping was not an option. I managed to force it back level using my weight and hand pressure, but it kept happening throughout the race. Probably 50 times or so. I had to constantly focus on sitting perfectly centered to avoid it tilting again. Very annoying.
Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy. Edit: problem is gone. Possibly was caused by a crash earlier in the race, creating a bit of play/disbalance in the headset area.
Also noticed a rattling sound somewhere on the bike. I suspect the storage cover, but I’ll need to investigate. I like a quiet bike.
Edit: it was my multitool rattling around in the storage :-X
The bike and myself really got put through the wringer today.
Fantastic event.
-
I'm looking to assemble my setup this week. Is the crown race integrated into the fork? Is it as simple as bearing onto lower fork-fork-insert fork-upper bearing-compression cring and spacers?
-
Great Insight @NB87!
This weekend I did a longer ride with my LCR018-D (Size 58) with an attached rear Rack Setup (Tailfin). And really loved the handling of the Bike.
I did kind of a Alp-Cross (started at the Border of Italy to end north the alps, 220k, 1500m) and really enjoyed the ride.
Positive:
- The Overall Position on the bike is really good for long rides. Even after 4 hours of riding I only stopped because I wanted to fuel not only by bars and drinkmix and eat something yummy.
- 35mm Pro5 Tires with the clearance of the frame is my sweetspot for this bike. I can easily detour through some gravel sections without worrying.
- my 1by Setup with 10-52 Eagle and the 44T Chainring perfectly suits my cadence - I can pedal over 60 kph but still got enough room left to get up 10%+ gravel climbs seated.
- the dynamo setup is super nice to get more visibility when going down the twisties - cars just give a bit more room and dont overtake others in stupid situations
- Tailfin is just the best :D
Negative:
- with the rear load the bike gets some speed whobling when riding no hands (for examble to change jacket/vest etc.) I didn expierence this when cycling without the rear load.
- rattling noise of the storage door (wendy told me that they are working on a v3 of the door with the lever going UP instead of DOWN to unlock)
Overall, after roughly 1.5k KM, I really like the bike. Would recommend it for similar use.
Funny thing: a woman shouted at me when I left the train station that she recognizes the design of my bike from the LB website :)
-
Negatives:
Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy.
Negative:
- with the rear load the bike gets some speed whobling when riding no hands (for examble to change jacket/vest etc.) I didn expierence this when cycling without the rear load.
What timing, I was coming here to ask about anyone dealing with death wobble... Has anyone had issues with this, when riding normally. If I go over 45km, on flat ground or downhill, I will get death wobble. I have checked/rechecked the headset and torque. Swapped out different front wheels/tires. Still get it. Not sure where or what to check next.
Quoted posts were about extra rear load but mine will happen with hands on hoods. Maybe I need to slide saddle forward or get an inline post, see if putting more seated weight forward??
-
I'd personally try a Cane Creek Viscoset before messing with my position
-
The seatpost and storage cover have kept me holding off on a final decision. These new reports of high speed wobble are more concerning. I'm wondering what role wheel/tire choice are playing in this.
-
Mine has been absolutely rock solid up to around 90kph ( haven’t gone any quicker than that yet )
Also fine with 40+ kph crosswinds.
I’m not saying people don’t have an issue, but it’s a set up issue and not a frame / geometry or flexing issue.
Obviously checking it’s been assembled correctly is a starting point.
A steering damper is a sticky plaster trying to address a weight distribution, or other issue.
-
The seatpost and storage cover have kept me holding off on a final decision. These new reports of high speed wobble are more concerning. I'm wondering what role wheel/tire choice are playing in this.
Could be also a bad balanced wheel? I mean i haven't this kind of issue, but i also balanced my wheels with weights in the rim.
-
I agree it could be a setup issue. That is why I am coming here and hoping someone may have been in a similar situation.
Not sure what in the setup, I have been over the bike a few times and cannot find anything that loose. Before I get down into steering dampeners, I would try taking out the enduro bearings and putting the stock ones in. See if that changes anything. Some are also running enduro bearings without issue and I ordered the proper (ACB 4545 1.5 40x52x7) replacement.
I went down the rabbit hole of balancing my first set of wheels that I got wobble on. Balanced and still had the issue. Different wheels, still got wobble.
Last night I just pulled all the spacers, loosened all bolts, made sure everything was seated and retorqued. Hoping maybe a partial resetting of everything helps. Also going to slide the saddle forward a bit for weight distribution.
If not, then I will pull the headset apart, put the other bearings in and hope that helps.
-
Bender87: Yeah in my experience it is pretty much always front wheel balancing. Sometimes it just add up (tyres are not perfectly balanced + rims + valves ect) and then it can all meet up to pretty big shake, it is not bad or anything sometimes manufacturing tolerances just stack up, I have seen 3000+USD wheels shake like crazy.
My LCR018-D is absolutely solid, even at 85km/h speeds (I did balanced my wheels).
-
I agree it could be a setup issue. That is why I am coming here and hoping someone may have been in a similar situation.
Not sure what in the setup, I have been over the bike a few times and cannot find anything that loose. Before I get down into steering dampeners, I would try taking out the enduro bearings and putting the stock ones in. See if that changes anything. Some are also running enduro bearings without issue and I ordered the proper (ACB 4545 1.5 40x52x7) replacement.
I went down the rabbit hole of balancing my first set of wheels that I got wobble on. Balanced and still had the issue. Different wheels, still got wobble.
Last night I just pulled all the spacers, loosened all bolts, made sure everything was seated and retorqued. Hoping maybe a partial resetting of everything helps. Also going to slide the saddle forward a bit for weight distribution.
If not, then I will pull the headset apart, put the other bearings in and hope that helps.
I can absolutely say it’s nothing to do with the enduro bearings. I have them in mine also.
45kph on flat ground is a strange scenario for it to happen. It’s usually a downhill thing.
It can be as simple as gripping the bars too tightly- again, that’s usually a downhill thing.
Post a picture of the bike - curious if you have an extreme saddle position or huge stack of spacers upsetting something.
-
I figured it would not be the bearings but at this point, if what I did last night does not solve it, it becomes a game of trying a few things.
I initially thought may have been the 58mm front wheel but I have still got the wobble with an alloy wheel with a different tire. I do have a a bit of spacers above/below as I dial position but nothing I think is crazy. I have some extra extra hyd hose stuffed in the handle bars to give me the length I need to cut/reconnect once I dial the stack. I have the shifters hard wired, so there is 2 cables for the shifters. Again, none of that to me would cause the death wobble.
-
I see from the photos here that most owners have the 0 offset seat post option (which LC also say is their default choice), what's the basis selecting this as I thought most bikes comes with an offset post for balance/weight distribution. My understanding is 0 offset is if there are fitment issues but may compromise weight distribution (causing weight too forward).
Also, has anyone ordered and paid through Paypal gift (friend & family) option to save the 4.5%? Aware there are risks associated with this if things go wrong, but LCs customer service response shown in this seems to be good so wondering if anyone has paid this route.
I paid through Paypal gift (friend & family) and save 40€, they asked me to pay 1$ first to test and then I made full payment without any issue.
-
If you’re sitting right at the back of the saddle, it could be something to investigate.
However, if you’re sitting mid saddle it’s no further back than mine (7.5cm behind the bb with a saddle measuring 250mm in length)
I do quite a lot of weights so my chest bulk puts quite a bit more mass forward - counterbalancing my arse.
And I have around 11cm of saddle to bar drop which also moves weight forward.
Moving the saddle forward and up will give you the same seat height but shift the COG forward. It might be worth trying as an experiment.
It’s free and quickly reversible.
As a side point - I have a cervelo S3 in a size 51, I love that bike but I wanted to try a size 54 ( supposedly my correct size )
So I picked up a size 54 and rode them back to back for a while. I’d always get wobble on the 54, but never the 51.
I eventually solved the wobble with a more forward saddle position and 10mm longer stem. I still preferred the 51 but the 54 was just as stable after that change.
-
I've got a 0 setback seatpost and the saddle almost in maxed out forward position with 120mm stem.
So in my case I can't believe it's weight distribution.
I did however crash earlier in the race when the whole group slowed down all of a sudden. I was braking really heavily and went from nose wheely to hitting the wheel of the guy in front and then I got catapulted off the bike. Maybe that impact caused some kind of disbalance in the setup.
I've ridden about 1000km now with the bike and during the race was the first time that I experienced the speed wobble. And I have definitely ridden without hands on the bar before yesterday.
I will check it and update here.
-
I do sit on the back of the saddle, so I agree trying to shift it forward/up is a free way to test. I also took 5mm spacer out. Lets hope the slightly greater drop and further forward COG helps. Possibly ordering an inline post and longer bar in the future.
Thanks for the help everyone, I will update once I can test.
-
I figured it would not be the bearings but at this point, if what I did last night does not solve it, it becomes a game of trying a few things.
I initially thought may have been the 58mm front wheel but I have still got the wobble with an alloy wheel with a different tire. I do have a a bit of spacers above/below as I dial position but nothing I think is crazy. I have some extra extra hyd hose stuffed in the handle bars to give me the length I need to cut/reconnect once I dial the stack. I have the shifters hard wired, so there is 2 cables for the shifters. Again, none of that to me would cause the death wobble.
That is pretty weird, if you tried to balance wheels. Bike looks good nothing that stands out. I would try to look at that headset, I dont thing different bearings will do something, but if you are confident that your headset is correctly put together I would try to a bit more preload on the top cap to headset bearings.
I pretty much universaly preload headset bearings top cap to 2N-m, I think that is good balance for preload bearing stiffness and bearings still runs smoothly.
From what I found out that people who build bike for the first time and try to preload headset to "feel" according to internet do not put enough preload to bearings, they are just scared to tighten it too much.
So try that preload with torque wrench, I would say even 3N-m should be perfectly fine and if you tighten top cap bolt to 3N-m and your steering locks out, then there is something put together wrong.
-
I've got a 0 setback seatpost and the saddle almost in maxed out forward position with 120mm stem.
So in my case I can't believe it's weight distribution.
I did however crash earlier in the race when the whole group slowed down all of a sudden. I was braking really heavily and went from nose wheely to hitting the wheel of the guy in front and then I got catapulted off the bike. Maybe that impact caused some kind of disbalance in the setup.
I've ridden about 1000km now with the bike and during the race was the first time that I experienced the speed wobble. And I have definitely ridden without hands on the bar before yesterday.
I will check it and update here.
You’re an experienced rider, but maybe chasing a more aggressive position has shifted the weight too far forward.
I know when I tested mine with a 130mm stem and more forward saddle positions it was frankly fucking terrifying - hyper sensitive front end.
I quickly went back to my usual 110mm and regular set back 😂
-
I do sit on the back of the saddle, so I agree trying to shift it forward/up is a free way to test. I also took 5mm spacer out. Lets hope the slightly greater drop and further forward COG helps. Possibly ordering an inline post and longer bar in the future.
Thanks for the help everyone, I will update once I can test.
Usually people sit at the back of the saddle as it’s too low. They’re trying to make the effective length to the pedals longer.
-
The first time I built it up, I did 3nm. Got the wobble and then did the 6nm LC suggests. Still got wobble. Went to 8nm last night to try that, bar moves smooth with no binding from the tightness. Possibly the fact I can get to 8nm and it still moves freely, indicates an issue with how I have it setup?
I've been sitting on the back on this bike and my other, that had a bike fit done. It's the spot that felt comfortable and avoided the rub of my retired powerlifter legs, haha. As I wait to get a bike fit done on this bike, doesn't hurt to try the forward, up and up a touch more.
-
The first time I built it up, I did 3nm. Got the wobble and then did the 6nm LC suggests. Still got wobble. Went to 8nm last night to try that, bar moves smooth with no binding from the tightness. Possibly the fact I can get to 8nm and it still moves freely, indicates an issue with how I have it setup?
I've been sitting on the back on this bike and my other, that had a bike fit done. It's the spot that felt comfortable and avoided the rub of my retired powerlifter legs, haha. As I wait to get a bike fit done on this bike, doesn't hurt to try the forward, up and up a touch more.
Hi, but you did loosen your stem before torquing more? Otherwise you just preloaded your stem.
-
Hi, but you did loosen your stem before torquing more? Otherwise you just preloaded your stem.
Thanks for checking that. Yes, both times the stem bolts were loosened so the bar could freely move. Then the top cap torqued before finally retorquing the stem bolts.
-
The first time I built it up, I did 3nm. Got the wobble and then did the 6nm LC suggests. Still got wobble. Went to 8nm last night to try that, bar moves smooth with no binding from the tightness. Possibly the fact I can get to 8nm and it still moves freely, indicates an issue with how I have it setup?
I've been sitting on the back on this bike and my other, that had a bike fit done. It's the spot that felt comfortable and avoided the rub of my retired powerlifter legs, haha. As I wait to get a bike fit done on this bike, doesn't hurt to try the forward, up and up a touch more.
I think that could be your problem, even at 6N-m you should feel headset bearing getting a bit stiff. Think you just dont have enough gap between fork steerer tube and spacers and it all get stuck on fork steerer tube and your bearing are not getting preloaded no matter how much you tighten it.
Try to add one spacer bellow the top cap (above handlebars) to increase that gap and then you should be able to correctly preload bearings (2-3n-m)
-
The first time I built it up, I did 3nm. Got the wobble and then did the 6nm LC suggests. Still got wobble. Went to 8nm last night to try that, bar moves smooth with no binding from the tightness. Possibly the fact I can get to 8nm and it still moves freely, indicates an issue with how I have it setup?
I've been sitting on the back on this bike and my other, that had a bike fit done. It's the spot that felt comfortable and avoided the rub of my retired powerlifter legs, haha. As I wait to get a bike fit done on this bike, doesn't hurt to try the forward, up and up a touch more.
It’s been talked about previously. 6nm and 8nm for a headset is just dumb. Way OTT and just not needed.
It just needs to be tight enough to compress everything so there is no movement when you pull the front brake and rock the bike forward and back wards.
2/3nm is plenty. More than that and you’re crushing the bearings.
Surely if you’re sitting at the back of the saddle you’re getting leg rub if you have big legs ?
Whatever. If you’re planning a bike fit, just get that done and ignore experimentation
-
I had that concern previously and measured. 4-5mm of gap.
I agree the headset should not need that much. I was doing it to LC spec, as a way to test if it was the cause. Otherwise I would have left it at 3nm.
I was getting rub pre bike fit. When I had the last fit, I went wider Q factor and found that sitting position felt good. I probably attributing the lack of rub to the sitting position when in reality its the wider Q factor. Either way, it was feeling great on the old bike and never had issues.
I'm waiting to get in for the bike fit. It will likely be a few weeks, at best. So I want to try and get some resolution on the wobble, so I can enjoy the bike until then.
-
I found moving to a T shaped saddle instead of a V shaped gave me more thigh clearance and avoided any rubbing.
I hope you get yourself sorted
-
Hi !
As you are talking about headset, mine has a little gap above the stem. Is it normal ?
-
Hi !
As you are talking about headset, mine has a little gap above the stem. Is it normal ?
No, the steerer wasn’t cut short enough. Or change to a different compression plus with a lower stack (the metal rim at the top is a few mm thick. Others are 1mm thick and might address this)
-
No, the steerer wasn’t cut short enough. Or change to a different compression plus with a lower stack (the metal rim at the top is a few mm thick. Others are 1mm thick and might address this)
Ok, when I start to torque the top cap everything's good and the compression plus is under the top cap when I've finished to torque it to 6newton it's like on the photo.
-
Ok, when I start to torque the top cap everything's good and the compression plus is under the top cap when I've finished to torque it to 6newton it's like on the photo.
Stop tightening to 6mn 🤦 it doesn’t need to be that tight.
Either everything is compressing - as it should, or it’s pulling the compression plug upwards with the stupid high torque.
-
Stop tightening to 6mn 🤦 it doesn’t need to be that tight.
Either everything is compressing - as it should, or it’s pulling the compression plug upwards with the stupid high torque.
Ok I'll do it now but I'm on Holliday's and i'dont have the torque for the expander in mind. Is it 10nw?
-
I have finished my build ca. 2 weeks ago. Everything was easy to put together and there have been no issues so far (ca. 350km ridden).
I saw a lot of people early on mentioning problems with a slipping seatpost. I received the new version with the "grippy surface" all around the seatpost. I used the same approach as with my Cannondale Supersix (which also famously has slipping and creaking issues with the seatpost) and put grease on the frame side of the clamp + grip paste on the seatpost side. Torqued to 6nm I have had no slippage even though the roads here in Britain are quite rough with a lot of pot holes.
So far it seems like the updated version of the seatpost solved the issue?
Not for me. I got the slick version first and the grippy one later, but the problem persists.
Can anyone tell if this is normal amount of play when the clamp is loose?
https://youtu.be/GSz5RWhPCI8?is=3Z4Z8r9uFZXL2X_n
When the clamp is tighten, I guess this amount of wiggleroom makes the seatpost slip because it’s only forced between the clamp and a smaller part of the rear of the seatpost. It might be forced sideways and forced out of it’s position little by little. Not sure how Jim will solve this. I need to use the bike and now I’m back to the strip of PU, but it’s not a perfect solution.
-
What is the T47 size for the standard stainless steel BB that LC supply?
I hear the Heppe tool from Aliexpress mentioned before but theres seems to be a few sizes available:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000052738691824%22%7D&sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0
Prefer getting a socket adaptor type one so I can use my torque wrench to apply the correct torque value.
-
What is the T47 size for the standard stainless steel BB that LC supply?
I hear the Heppe tool from Aliexpress mentioned before but theres seems to be a few sizes available:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?productId=1005007953533902&selectedSkuId=12000052738691825&channel=detailPageDealCombineFloor&combineBizType=platformFreeShipping&intent_extra_sku_from=from_add_to_shopcart&type=mergeorder&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21GBP%212.77%212.61%21%21%213.66%213.45%21%40210382de17785815448737910e1e49%2112000052738691825%21fus%21UK%216084234762%21X&trackParams=%7B%22businessScenario%22%3A%22choiceV2%22%2C%22activityType%22%3A%22CHOICE_FREE_SHIPPING%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.detail.fusionpage.0
Prefer getting a socket adaptor type one so I can use my torque wrench to apply the correct torque value.
"A 16T wrench with a diameter of 49 or a 16T 49/50 socket will work". That's the answer they gave me.
-
Not for me. I got the slick version first and the grippy one later, but the problem persists.
Can anyone tell if this is normal amount of play when the clamp is loose?
https://youtu.be/GSz5RWhPCI8?is=3Z4Z8r9uFZXL2X_n
When the clamp is tighten, I guess this amount of wiggleroom makes the seatpost slip because it’s only forced between the clamp and a smaller part of the rear of the seatpost. It might be forced sideways and forced out of it’s position little by little. Not sure how Jim will solve this. I need to use the bike and now I’m back to the strip of PU, but it’s not a perfect solution.
Give or take, my seat post had the same amount of wiggle when loose. Once torqued, I did not find any slipping. I do have a seat post varia mount; I wonder if that stops slipping? Either way, I took some thin protective film and layered two pieces on the two long sides of the post. That took away almost all the side-to-side movement but still let me easily insert the seat post. Of course, with carbon grip paste.
It does make me wonder if getting a varia mount 3D printed and putting that at the base of the seat post, would help prevent more slippage?
-
What is the T47 size for the standard stainless steel BB that LC supply?
i used the "Mimoke 6-in-1 Multifunctional Bicycle Bottom Bracket Wrench & Tool (12/16 Tooth)". From Amazon. But i took me 3 orders to get a fitting tool :D
-
Not for me. I got the slick version first and the grippy one later, but the problem persists.
Can anyone tell if this is normal amount of play when the clamp is loose?
https://youtu.be/GSz5RWhPCI8?is=3Z4Z8r9uFZXL2X_n
When the clamp is tighten, I guess this amount of wiggleroom makes the seatpost slip because it’s only forced between the clamp and a smaller part of the rear of the seatpost. It might be forced sideways and forced out of it’s position little by little. Not sure how Jim will solve this. I need to use the bike and now I’m back to the strip of PU, but it’s not a perfect solution.
One thing that might be worth a try - a couple of weeks back I was tightening the seatpost clamp, but was still getting movement in the seatpost and lots of slippage.
I took out the seatpost wedge, dismantled and cleaned, and put some light oil on the insides - made a huge difference - you could feel the seatpost tightening to no movement at much lower force.
When reinstalling I also used silca carbon grip paste, which seems to me to be a step above the standard stuff I used before.
Might be worth a try just to rule it out if nothing else.
-
One thing that might be worth a try - a couple of weeks back I was tightening the seatpost clamp, but was still getting movement in the seatpost and lots of slippage.
I took out the seatpost wedge, dismantled and cleaned, and put some light oil on the insides - made a huge difference - you could feel the seatpost tightening to no movement at much lower force.
When reinstalling I also used silca carbon grip paste, which seems to me to be a step above the standard stuff I used before.
Might be worth a try just to rule it out if nothing else.
I did something similar. I greased the bolt and surface of the wedge that slides against the other wedge. Put carbon paste on the surface that touches the seatpost. Some more carbon grip paste around the entire seatpust that sits in the frame. And done. Didn't move at all and it got a serious beating in the meantime
-
Hey!
My frame is ready to be shipped but they don’t have the handlebar I want in stock in the size I’m looking for.
Would you know of / could you recommend a similar handlebar (or a more modern one) that wouldn’t cost more than $150-200, with at least a small rise (or a big rise otherwise) please?
Thanks
-
Some thoughts about my my speed whobbles:
Without loads the bike handles very well, not whobbling even at top speeds over 90kph, very good and predictable steering, fast in twisties, no big issue with side wind.
I’m running a front dynamo hub so there is a bit of weight in the front wheel. The wheels are built by me, very true, very even spoketension, running since 25kKM
The whobbling only appeared with the Tailfin which is a common and known problem. Also I’m using the longer arch since I use the Tailfin also on my dropper Seatpost bike. The weight is even more in the back. Next time I’m using the Tailfin I will try some weight distribution to the front with a little bar roll. Also a little more preload may solve the problem.
I will report back.
-
I think that could be your problem, even at 6N-m you should feel headset bearing getting a bit stiff. Think you just dont have enough gap between fork steerer tube and spacers and it all get stuck on fork steerer tube and your bearing are not getting preloaded no matter how much you tighten it.
Try to add one spacer bellow the top cap (above handlebars) to increase that gap and then you should be able to correctly preload bearings (2-3n-m)
Thank you (and others) for this information and insight. I didn't know about needing so much extra height on the spacers. I had speed wobbles on several bikes previously. Couldn't figure it out and sold the bikes. Likely this was the cause at least some of the time. Expensive lesson to learn!
-
My frame is ready to ship ! Youhou
-
UD clear?
-
Yes, raw carbon glossy finish
-
My frame is ready to ship ! Youhou
When did you place your order?
-
20 march
-
Yes, raw carbon glossy finish
Looks really nice!
-
well, here is a first picture of mine... still got work to do (bar tape, road bike pedals, some lighter rims etc ... ).
until now:
frame size 52
color: carbon raw matt
tires: specialized mondo 35
TPU rideNow tubes
sram force breaks
Galfer discs 160mm
sram red cranks 165mm
48t garbaruk chain ring
10-50 cassette
sram axs GX (hehe...)
ryet carbon saddle from AliExpress
still 7,8kg with DMR V12 pedals (430gr) and kinda heavy 50mm rims from Airwolf bikes (about 1540gr)
(still recovering from ACL surgery, that's why I cannot ride SPD SL pedals :-/ )
-
Has anyone cross-shopped the Long Teng RD301-D (aka Mondice FM106/Tideace R301D) and compared them for a do-everything-bike use case? I'm interested in the LCR018-D, but I think by the time I get an order in and the frame shipped out, half the summer will be gone!
-
Has anyone cross-shopped the Long Teng RD301-D (aka Mondice FM106/Tideace R301D) and compared them for a do-everything-bike use case? I'm interested in the LCR018-D, but I think by the time I get an order in and the frame shipped out, half the summer will be gone!
The LT 301 looks aero like a school bus, vs this 18D actually got a fast bike stamp on the nero show.
Beyond that, i would assume both bikes to perform about the same, the 301 does claim to use fancy fibers, be super light, and tick all the boxes of a good modern OEM frame (my LT 268 is my daily driver for reference, but it's dated now, it's T700, it's not light, blablabla)
-
Hi,
is this 0.7mm spacer ment to be placed like this hold in place with this 1 plastic pin?
Many thanks, D
-
Hi,
is this 0.7mm spacer ment to be placed like this hold in place with this 1 plastic pin?
Many thanks, D
Correct, but you may not need it. It's likely provided in case the plastic thingy rubs on the frame once you've tightened everything. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt. If you use it without needing it, you're creating an unnecessary gap between the plastic thingy and the frame, which 1. doesnt look nice (invisible from a distance) and 2. leads to more water ingress (also irrelevant unless you often ride in the rain). Or maybe if you use it on the trainer and sweat like a pig.
-
Hi,
is this 0.7mm spacer ment to be placed like this hold in place with this 1 plastic pin?
Many thanks, D
I needed it, otherwise plastic rubs on the frame
-
What is the T47 size for the standard stainless steel BB that LC supply?
I hear the Heppe tool from Aliexpress mentioned before but theres seems to be a few sizes available:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007953533902.html?pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000052738691824%22%7D&sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0
Prefer getting a socket adaptor type one so I can use my torque wrench to apply the correct torque value.
Can confirm T47 with 16T and 50mm diameter works perfect. I ordered this one (make sure to check the T47-50-16 variant): https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010757507426.html (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010757507426.html)
-
I didn't need the spacer.
-
Hi all, this bike ticked all my boxes, but they don’t offer long enough seatposts. When I add the seat tube, the seatpost minimum insert and a saddle, they still come short of my saddle height by about 35mm. Do you guys know if there are longer seatposts available for this frame or know some other kind of hack?
-
Hi,
I'm looking for an expander with a thinner top than the one from LC which is 3mm thick. POTO did send a link to a specialized one but the product is not available anymore. Does anybody know an expander that could suit the bike with a thinner top ? Thank you !
-
Hi,
I'm looking for an expander with a thinner top than the one from LC which is 3mm thick. POTO did send a link to a specialized one but the product is not available anymore. Does anybody know an expander that could suit the bike with a thinner top ? Thank you !
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIl9yZM
-
Hi,
I'm looking for an expander with a thinner top than the one from LC which is 3mm thick. POTO did send a link to a specialized one but the product is not available anymore. Does anybody know an expander that could suit the bike with a thinner top ? Thank you !
Hey,
Maybe a stupid question but why do you need that ? Thanks
-
Hey,
Maybe a stupid question but why do you need that ? Thanks
Hello, it's just because I've cut the tube a bit too thick and I'd prefer to put a thinner top expander than cutting the tube again with only 1/2mm to cut off.
-
Hello, it's just because I've cut the tube a bit too thick and I'd prefer to put a thinner top expander than cutting the tube again with only 1/2mm to cut off.
You can grind carbon amazingly well. I use a reinforced cutting disc for my rotary device. That's how I fix if I have the same issue.
-
Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy.
Also noticed a rattling sound somewhere on the bike. I suspect the storage cover, but I’ll need to investigate. I like a quiet bike.
have you checked again ? those are very important issues .
thanks for sharing
-
Finally my build is complete.
Weight is 8.5kg with pedals, varia radar and elemnt bolt (like it is on photos) witch is something like 300g lighter than my Aeroad with same config, I doubt I will be able to feel that, but that was pleasant surprise
what do you think about riding and in comparison with branded frames ?
-
Paid 649$ (febr. 2026)
+ 113$ shipping to GER
+ 34$ PayPal fee
= 796$ in total
should arrive in the next days
now 880 euro + shipping and paypal fee.. very huge difference
-
(https://i.imgur.com/APqYRQ8.png)
Loving the bike so far, but the downtube compartment lid (v2?) fell off today and left a deep gash in the paint. >:( >:(
riding on road ? which is your weight ?
-
$1024? that's definitely a jump. must be the new post-Shanghai bike show price. they must be getting a lot more interest from all the social media exposure and inundated with orders. price-demand curve in action.
i'm hoping to get mine by mid june (approx 2 mo from order).
got their LC 53DB wheelset i ordered with the frame already (approx 1 mo after order), last week. looks great, weight is accurate (1350gm for 50mm), 30mm specialized sworks turbo tires mount easily and are 30mm measured. cassette body is a blingy gold color, not that anyone will ever see it. 54tooth ratchet hub is super loud. might try finding at hollow-type 18T ratchet to quiet it down. i have left over solid dt swiss 18t ratchets but the LC comes with a single spring and hollowed out ratchets so couldn't get the old dt swiss ratchets to fit right.
now 880 euro + shipping and paypal fee.. very huge difference
-
For those who ordered the frameset in Raw Carbon Glossy recently, how much was it ?
I was checking my invoice in may, and it was :
- 699$ frame set + 50$ of raw carbon glossy finish
Thank you
-
got their LC 53DB wheelset i ordered with the frame already
which is the price ? how do you feel with them on the road ?
-
I do sit on the back of the saddle, so I agree trying to shift it forward/up is a free way to test. I also took 5mm spacer out. Lets hope the slightly greater drop and further forward COG helps. Possibly ordering an inline post and longer bar in the future.
Thanks for the help everyone, I will update once I can test.
I kept it to smaller hills this weekend, just to test. I got up to 55km without wobbles on the alloy shallow wheel. Going to put the deeper carbon wheel on and restest. Not sure which fix would have solved it, as I changed a few things. If it comes back, at least I know it is the front wheel.
-
it was $479, a discounted price since i was ordering with the frame.
haven't ridden it yet. waiting for the frame.
which is the price ? how do you feel with them on the road ?
-
Hello,
For those who installed a Shimano Front Derailleur (Di2), did you have to use the "support plate" (image below) on the "braze-on" mount, or is it ok if the screw is directly in contact with the mount (not the frame)?
Thanks!
EDIT: I'm asking this because, as you can see in the picture of this LCR018-D frame below, the braze-on mount is quite wide. The derailleur's support screw will rest perfectly on the metal mount itself and won't touch the carbon frame. I've read that in this specific case, the adhesive plate is unnecessary. Can anyone confirm?
Thanks!
-
Shayzzz: Yeah, you dont need it, as long as bolt will be in contact with alluminium holder and not carbon (witch it will be) you dont need that shimano plate, no problem.
-
nero show fast bike designation!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTyy0gAhjMk&list=PLEpbDnti9Ma3sS3_n0VhLvurDB1ZgY3DY
-
Third appearance, third appreciation.
-
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699 - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120. Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
-
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699 - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120. Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
I've got this color and I agree it's lighter than british racing green. I don't mind it though. Looks awesome if you ask me. What do you mean with "Like 2x the L in HSL color"?
https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5970.0;attach=45053;image
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5970.0;attach=45053;image)
-
Shayzzz: Yeah, you dont need it, as long as bolt will be in contact with alluminium holder and not carbon (witch it will be) you dont need that shimano plate, no problem.
Thanks !
-
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699 - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120. Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
One always needs more anxiety in one's life. Wanting a very specific colour and getting painted across the globe to realize it was the wrong one too late is one my favourite anxietymaxxing hacks : anxxxiety.
-
Is anyone running a LCR018 non-integrated with something like an FSA 69 SRS? It seems like almost everyone opts for the HBR17, but I'm thinking about just running my own stems and handlebar while I decide on my cockpit geometry.
-
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
I've got a LCR017 painted in that colour and it's very sensitive to light levels and in bright sunshine seems to photograph much lighter than it looks in real life. The sample they have on the webpage is about right but I've attached a couple of photos that show the difference.
-
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699 - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120. Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
The attached frame is YS7935. Depending on light it shins brighter but I tend to agree that classic british racing green would be even darker.
-
Hello Folks, is there a possibility to Contact lightcarbon via WhatsApp? Or is the only way the inquiriy Button on Homepage?
-
Order placed yesterday total was $1,191
Frameset $939 that is with chameleon paint option
Titanium computer mount $49
Shipping $152
Paypal handling charge $51
Does any one know around what length Di2 EW-SD300 cable is needed for size 47cm frame?
-
Well yes, I have seen people mention it, but I haven't seen an exact answer for where it actually goes.
So do I place the upper headset bearing, then the spacer? Or does it go after the spacer that routes the brake hoses?
Was there a response to this question I missed, and if so, what is the link to it?
I have searched the forum and also have this question as to where this spacer is intended to be placed.
-
Was there a response to this question I missed, and if so, what is the link to it?
I have searched the forum and also have this question as to where this spacer is intended to be placed.
It sits on top of the tapered piece that centeres the steerer fork in the top bearing (and guides the cables at the front), below the cover that you're trying to raise (if it sits too close to the frame).
Where else could it go 🤷♂️
-
Hi everyone,
Does anyone here have this frame in a full silver/grey colorway or perhaps a custom combination using these light tones?
I’d love to see how the light hits these aero shapes in the wild.
Also, can anyone recommend the C53DB wheelset from LC? I’m looking for a 50mm depth carbon wheelset with a 23-25mm internal width (running 32-38mm tires). Is there anything else you’d recommend in the $500–$600 bracket (total shipped to EU)?
Thanks!
-
I use a Ortlieb Quick Rack incl. Quick Rack Axle for my Gravel Bike and tried to figure out if the system could also work for the LCR018-D (i do have the 1.5mm version which does not fit, so I can't try it)
Has anyone of you tried to fit the https://at.ortlieb.com/products/thru-axle-m6-connector ?
-
Hello Folks, is there a possibility to Contact lightcarbon via WhatsApp? Or is the only way the inquiriy Button on Homepage?
Give them an email and then you can continue the chat on whatsapp for quick questions and customization. I used carol@ lightcarbon.com
-
I have not watched yet but Tracevelo put his video out on the bike!
youtube.com/watch?v=nQv-9un6Cd8
-
I have not watched yet but Tracevelo put his video out on the bike!
youtube.com/watch?v=nQv-9un6Cd8
Watched it….he puts a lot of focus on gravel riding with it….fair enough if that’s what you want it to do, but I’d class it more as aero endurance - this is where the bike excels. I feel like the gravel tag unfairly gives you an initial impression of it being slower….and I can confirm this thing is as fast as you want it to be on the road.
Nice to have the versatility of course, but he only threw in a few lines about using it on the road with slicks as an option - the whole focus of the video should have been turned on its head with a focus on road primarily and a diversion into light gravel as an option - that shows the bike off at its best.
In other news….the v2 storage lid went flying off when going up a rough hill this morning.
Bolt seems to have came loose as the little arm had no resistance and kept unlatching after that.
I’ll have to out some loctite on there to try and keep the bugger shut.
Any news on a v3 lid that closes with gravity instead of trying to fight against it??
-
Watched it….he puts a lot of focus on gravel riding with it….fair enough if that’s what you want it to do, but I’d class it more as aero endurance - this is where the bike excels. I feel like the gravel tag unfairly gives you an initial impression of it being slower….and I can confirm this thing is as fast as you want it to be on the road.
Nice to have the versatility of course, but he only threw in a few lines about using it on the road with slicks as an option - the whole focus of the video should have been turned on its head with a focus on road primarily and a diversion into light gravel as an option - that shows the bike off at its best.
I agree fully after watching. I think most of us use this as a road bike with gravel option. None the less, glad to see it was overall, a positive review.
-
I paid $699 on march 11 for my frame and $15 for the Shimano BB. no paint.
Just got a Quote today for the LCR018-D
Frame + HBR17 + Seatpost + Shinano compatible BB: $699 - Guess this is the new price.
Single color paint: $120. Single color, Full clossy, no logos.
SD-01 Saddle: $49
2x Bottle cages = $30 total
Extra UDH: Included
Extra storage bag for frame: $10
Extra storage lid (in case first breaks): $28
GPS mount for garmin: Included
Postage and customs fees: $145
I want something in the classic dark british racing green, matching the sample they have on web page. YS7935. And everywhere I look, this is a quite dark color. The color Wendy sent me as an example is like twice as bright. Like 2x the L in HSL color.
-
no idea but I'll find out when I get mine in the next few weeks. Going to put Di2 on it.
Order placed yesterday total was $1,191
Frameset $939 that is with chameleon paint option
Titanium computer mount $49
Shipping $152
Paypal handling charge $51
Does any one know around what length Di2 EW-SD300 cable is needed for size 47cm frame?
-
I ordered the C52DB Disc Brake wheels with the upgraded C-Xray spokes with my frame. They discounted the wheels to $489 plus delivery. (frame and wheels was $283)
Hi everyone,
Does anyone here have this frame in a full silver/grey colorway or perhaps a custom combination using these light tones?
I’d love to see how the light hits these aero shapes in the wild.
Also, can anyone recommend the C53DB wheelset from LC? I’m looking for a 50mm depth carbon wheelset with a 23-25mm internal width (running 32-38mm tires). Is there anything else you’d recommend in the $500–$600 bracket (total shipped to EU)?
Thanks!
-
I ordered the C52DB Disc Brake wheels with the upgraded C-Xray spokes with my frame. They discounted the wheels to $489 plus delivery. (frame and wheels was $283)
Wendy offers me c53db for 479$ + 120$ shipment to PL. Its not possibile to ship it together with the frame in one package.
Have you received your wheels already? If so, any thoughts?
-
After a loooong wait with delays (handlebars I ordered were out of stock) I finally got the shipping info. Unfortunately, I had to pay 200 CAD import fees to UPS. Is this a Canada thing? Really surprised at the price.
Side note - last piece I need is a bottom bracket, steered away from the one they provide because of comments here but kind of wishing I went with one of the ones they sell now because my LBS has a wheels mfg t47i for shimano but it's ~200 cad. Is the wheels mfg worth it?
My other option is praxis for $70 but will take 1-2 weeks to arrive and I'm hoping to get it before the frameset arrives. Any other brands BBs I should look into?
If I were to wait 1-2 weeks maybe there are some good options from AliExpress?
Thanks for any help!
-
Wendy offers me c53db for 479$ + 120$ shipment to PL. Its not possibile to ship it together with the frame in one package.
Have you received your wheels already? If so, any thoughts?
I am looking for something for the same frame and probably will go with Serenade. I didn't contact yet but it will probably cost around 600$ at 1170g of weight.
You can go to topic--->> Re: best Aero wheels for sub 1000$
and see ---> Reply #6 from @Sander2177
He recommend is as good option for 38-40mm tire, also I am from PL
-
I went for the upgraded CEMA ceramic BB from LC. Cheaper than anything I could find in Canada for the same spec. Happy with it so far.
Did UPS give you a breakdown of the charges from CBSA? I had to pay $50 in fees/taxes/charges for my frame. I think it would depend on the value LC put for the value declaration, to directly how much you had to pay.
-
I went for the upgraded CEMA ceramic BB from LC. Cheaper than anything I could find in Canada for the same spec. Happy with it so far.
Did UPS give you a breakdown of the charges from CBSA? I had to pay $50 in fees/taxes/charges for my frame. I think it would depend on the value LC put for the value declaration, to directly how much you had to pay.
I wish I bought the same, hindsight 20/20. I don't think so. I can't find it on the tracking page
-
Finished my build last sunday.
Shimno 105Di2
Elitewheels ENT 38mm
Weight: 8.05kg (low weight was not a priority) without, pedals, mounts, bartape
-
Leaning towards the LCR018 in this silver chrome to black gradient. Planning to pair it with Serenade 50mm wheels (1318g) and 105 Di2 when I find a good deal. This visual shows the goal. I’m aiming for a total weight around 8 kg. Do you think it’s realistic with this setup?
-
no idea but I'll find out when I get mine in the next few weeks. Going to put Di2 on it.
Please let me know once you have the chance build up frame, much appreciated.
-
Leaning towards the LCR018 in this silver chrome to black gradient. Planning to pair it with Serenade 50mm wheels (1318g) and 105 Di2 when I find a good deal. This visual shows the goal. I’m aiming for a total weight around 8 kg. Do you think it’s realistic with this setup?
Yes. See my post above ... 8.05kg (framesize 520)
Things where I could easily still save weight:
- lighter wheelset > -200g > next season, 50mm wheels (1100g)
- tubeless > -200g > next season
- cassette > 11-34 instead of 11-36 or using a light ztto cassette
-
Finished my build last sunday.
Shimno 105Di2
Elitewheels ENT 38mm
Weight: 8.05kg (low weight was not a priority) without, pedals, mounts, bartape
what is max rear tire clearnence with front 105 Derailleur?
-
Wendy offers me c53db for 479$ + 120$ shipment to PL. Its not possibile to ship it together with the frame in one package.
Have you received your wheels already? If so, any thoughts?
not yet
-
what is max rear tire clearnence with front 105 Derailleur?
In my case 38mm. And it sits about 2mm from the motor
-
For those that have ordered to the UK, how long have your orders taken from notification that it's been posted to arriving at your doorstep?
-
Hello,
Does anybody know if this expander cold be mounted on the LCR018 ?
-
Ordered in mid-February and received in mid-May.
Size 50
Just got it put together with SRAM Force AXS XPLR (1x13) groupset, and using LightCarbon Rims NRD28-450C (28mm outer width (21mm inner width) w/ undulating 45- 50mm height) and 32mm Conti GP 5000 S TR tires.
-
Ordered in mid-February and received in mid-May.
Size 50
Just got it put together with SRAM Force AXS XPLR (1x13) groupset, and using LightCarbon Rims NRD28-450C (28mm outer width (21mm inner width) w/ undulating 45- 50mm height) and 32mm Conti GP 5000 S TR tires.
Fellow transition owner. Have a Patrol mk1, a suppressor and a mk1 scout.
-
Fellow transition owner. Have a Patrol mk1, a suppressor and a mk1 scout.
Nice! I'm loving the poppy, playful ride of a coil shock equipped Smuggler.
I keep wondering when we are going to see a better selection of carbon fiber trail bike frames from the Chinese direct to consumer manufacturers.
120-130 rear travel with 130-140 front travel with chainstay length around 430-435. It would be great to see a DW link suspension now that the patent has run out.
Getting off topic here, however. This is better for another thread.
-
Ordered in mid-February and received in mid-May.
Size 50
Just got it put together with SRAM Force AXS XPLR (1x13) groupset, and using LightCarbon Rims NRD28-450C (28mm outer width (21mm inner width) w/ undulating 45- 50mm height) and 32mm Conti GP 5000 S TR tires.
can you share your height and inner leg? I am 172 and inner leg 80cm and wonder 50 or 52 will fit better
-
can you share your height and inner leg? I am 172 and inner leg 80cm and wonder 50 or 52 will fit better
I also debated between size 50 and 52 and am glad I went with the 50.
The standover height was a major factor given my shorter inseam.
Height 170.2 cm
Inseam 76.0 cm
Bike config:
Spacers under the handlebar - 40mm
Seat tube trimmed - 38mm
Crank arm length - 160mm
Handlebar stem length - 90mm
Seat post offset - 15 mm
The fit feels very natural. I was expecting to have to play with things more, but the amount of tweaking to be done is minimal.
I have an extra seat post with zero offset and also another handlebar with 100 mm stem.
I will play with these over time to see what feels best.
Hope this helps.
-
can you share your height and inner leg? I am 172 and inner leg 80cm and wonder 50 or 52 will fit better
Well, I am 172cm, too - but with an 81,5cm inseam and quite happy with size 52.
-
Hi,
I'm looking for an expander with a thinner top than the one from LC which is 3mm thick. POTO did send a link to a specialized one but the product is not available anymore. Does anybody know an expander that could suit the bike with a thinner top ? Thank you !
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrkEgOb (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrkEgOb)
-
You can try to see if this is compatible, it works for SL7 https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005990111396.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c37ep7hn)
-
Well, I am 172cm, too - but with an 81,5cm inseam and quite happy with size 52.
well it doesn't help at all ;D ;D
so the question is 81.5 inseam was measured by pressing the book all the way up while standing as it should be? This is also how i measured mine + you need to remember that the shorts insert is another thing that should be removed from that 81.5cm but i didn't personally measure with it.
and the second one i have kinda short arms
-
Hey! I should receive my frame tomorrow ! Quick question, when I will have to cut the fork, should I cut it 3mm under the top of the stem ?
Thanks
-
well it doesn't help at all ;D ;D
so the question is 81.5 inseam was measured by pressing the book all the way up while standing as it should be? This is also how i measured mine + you need to remember that the shorts insert is another thing that should be removed from that 81.5cm but i didn't personally measure with it.
and the second one i have kinda short arms
Yes, hehe… but I thought I would be better than nothing :-/
I measured my inseam with the „book method“ all the way up ;-) I guess, I am having long legs compared to other men 🤷🏽♀️
-
Hey! I should receive my frame tomorrow ! Quick question, when I will have to cut the fork, should I cut it 3mm under the top of the stem ?
Thanks
You should measure 3 times, check 5 times and then cut once.
-
You should measure 3 times, check 5 times and then cut once.
But how much should I cut under the top of the stem ? From what I’ve seen the top of the stem should be « above » where i will cut the fork
-
Hey! I should receive my frame tomorrow ! Quick question, when I will have to cut the fork, should I cut it 3mm under the top of the stem ?
Thanks
I do not have the instructions in front of me but if memory services right, the instructions say 4-5mm. Double check the instructions provided.
-
But how much should I cut under the top of the stem ? From what I’ve seen the top of the stem should be « above » where i will cut the fork
From the LC site, 4-5mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab023
-
But how much should I cut under the top of the stem ? From what I’ve seen the top of the stem should be « above » where i will cut the fork
Rule of thumb: never cut below the upper handlebar screw. Above that, you are in principle free to choose.
-
Well, I am 172cm, too - but with an 81,5cm inseam and quite happy with size 52.
I am 173cm and bike fitter measured my inseam at 858mm but with my cycling shoes on. Is your 815mm measurement with or without shoes? I always thought I was pretty average so it was surprising to find out i have longer legs and how that affects the geometry I need.
-
I am 173cm and bike fitter measured my inseam at 858mm but with my cycling shoes on. Is your 815mm measurement with or without shoes? I always thought I was pretty average so it was surprising to find out i have longer legs and how that affects the geometry I need.
It’s dumb to measure inside leg with shoes on. All shoes have different stack heights, changing your effective saddle height.
I use 6 pairs of shoes throughout the year, and each bike needs to be changed depending on the shoes.
My winter boots are far thicker than my summer carbon gravel or road shoes as an example.
-
From the LC site, 4-5mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab023
Thank you !
-
Hey! I should receive my frame tomorrow ! Quick question, when I will have to cut the fork, should I cut it 3mm under the top of the stem ?
Thanks
The instructions sent by LC state 4-5mm.
-
Leaning towards the LCR018 in this silver chrome to black gradient. Planning to pair it with Serenade 50mm wheels (1318g) and 105 Di2 when I find a good deal. This visual shows the goal. I’m aiming for a total weight around 8 kg. Do you think it’s realistic with this setup?
Very beautiful and elegant....it reminds me a lot of the Seka Spear RDC (see photo).
I think it would be even more attractive with wheels without decals and a 55/60mm profile!
What size is it?
Does it weigh 8kg, including pedals or not?
Considering that the frame isn't particularly light, I think it's difficult to stay under 8kg (with pedals and bottle cage) with a 105Di2 groupset...I think you should opt for lighter wheels...but it also depends on the model and tire size you plan on using.
-
But how much should I cut under the top of the stem ? From what I’ve seen the top of the stem should be « above » where i will cut the fork
there's a video on youtube that explains the compression of the steerer column. Once you understand the physics, it starts making sense. Compression plugs have different designs, and lips of different thicknesses. Then once that's installed, you need enough space to compress the column, and there's a bit of play in the plastic spacers under the stem. 5mm is probably a good rule of thumb indeed.
-
Booooo
Due to the exhibition and a large volume of orders, the delivery has been delayed.
We apologize for the inconvenience.
We've checked your order.
The wheelsets are now being packed and will be shipped out in 3–5 working days.
The frame will take another 2–3 weeks for delivery.
Your order has been prioritized.
Thank you for your understanding.
-
If LC are following this thread, I'm watching, but waiting for a real solution to the internal storage door issue.
-
If LC are following this thread, I'm watching, but waiting for a real solution to the internal storage door issue.
The V3 door which is coming soon.
-
Noooo, first dog of a bike @ Nero Show.
Does it come with computer mount, or do I have to add it explicitly to the order? Or should I get the 3D printed one recommended on page 73?
-
Hey!
So I’ve finally been able to finish to build my LCR018 (I will upload pictures next week), but I have an issue : the saddle keep sliding to the back (I’m not talking about the sea tube, I don’t have any problem with that). Do you know if I should torque more the 2 saddle screws or add carbon paste to avoid that ?
Maybe I’ve done something wrong who knows
Thank you
-
STEGPB: Computer mount comes as standard with handlebars it is pretty good computer mount, but if you have small bike computer it is a bit long, that is a difference in that 3d printed one it is a bit shorter for garmin 5xx.
-
Hey!
So I’ve finally been able to finish to build my LCR018 (I will upload pictures next week), but I have an issue : the saddle keep sliding to the back (I’m not talking about the sea tube, I don’t have any problem with that). Do you know if I should torque more the 2 saddle screws or add carbon paste to avoid that ?
Maybe I’ve done something wrong who knows
Thank you
If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.
-
Hey!
So I’ve finally been able to finish to build my LCR018 (I will upload pictures next week), but I have an issue : the saddle keep sliding to the back (I’m not talking about the sea tube, I don’t have any problem with that). Do you know if I should torque more the 2 saddle screws or add carbon paste to avoid that ?
Maybe I’ve done something wrong who knows
Thank you
Yes to both. If the saddle rails are carbon, don't overdo it and obviously use a torque wrench. If it's metal, you can go to town.
-
If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.
Please explain why you shouldn’t use carbon grease between carbon and metal?
According to most manufacturers, this is exactly where it should be used.
As for the saddle clamp. Just use the correct torque and it’ll be fine.
Note - carbon rails are solid compressed fibres. A steel or Ti bolt would snap before the torque is high enough to crush rail. (with this design of clamp)
I’ve tested it 🤓 but stick to the torque recommendation as it doesn’t need to be higher than this.
-
Yes to both. If the saddle rails are carbon, don't overdo it and obviously use a torque wrench. If it's metal, you can go to town.
If setup correctly. Tighten it, so it holds steady. Carbon paste is not a good idea here,
since its metal on carbon.
Thanks for your answers. There are two small metal plates with teeth where you screw it in—do these plates have a specific orientation? Maybe that's it.
How did you manage to use a torque wrench here? It won't fit for me, so I have to do it by hand.
-
Noooo, first dog of a bike @ Nero Show.
Does it come with computer mount, or do I have to add it explicitly to the order? Or should I get the 3D printed one recommended on page 73?
I have the stock mount, the titanium and the 3D print mount. I prefer the shorter 3D mount. Looks better imo and was also the lightest.
-
Please explain why you shouldn’t use carbon grease between carbon and metal?
According to most manufacturers, this is exactly where it should be used.
As for the saddle clamp. Just use the correct torque and it’ll be fine.
Note - carbon rails are solid compressed fibres. A steel or Ti bolt would snap before the torque is high enough to crush rail. (with this design of clamp)
I’ve tested it 🤓 but stick to the torque recommendation as it doesn’t need to be higher than this.
Sorry for my hasty reply earlier. I meant, carbon fricton paste shouldn't be applied between the metal saddle clamp here and the carbon seat post head.
We had this discussion started in our club recently regarding a Trek Madone, where actually no carbon paste is recommended in the seat post area. And a comrad had a creaking saddle because of carbon paste, as it turned out.
And specifically as we checked many of the major brands and their manuals actually do not state that carbon paste should be used in the saddle clamp area of a carbon seatpost. manufacturer instructions typically only recommend thin layers of carbon paste for the seatpost-to-frame interface, while the saddle clamp area is only specified with torque values. Our decorated bike mechs stated that greased bolts of the saddle clamps threads are of more importance. And the metal to carbon area should be dry and clean (isopropanol) before saddle is mounted.
But thats just my 5 cents on this & others might disagree ;D
-
That style of seatpost is possibly the worst ever designed. I had an Envy version and it was utterly crap.
I can understand them not wanting carbon grease on it.
-
agreed
-
i'm still waiting to receive mine but it sounds like even V2 doors are still coming off. i just emailed to ask if there's a V3. is there a "best practice" to keep the door on? loctite the bolt? ghetto, but tape or coating of nail polish near the little metal nub to provide more resistance?
i agree they should've had it in the down position by default and probably would solve everything and maybe V3 will have that. i just don't know if my frame will include V3 since i ordered 6 weeks ago. or should i order an backup door in case it comes off? i didn't bother after i heard there was a V2 and figured i'd be fine.
have to say, it's these little things that give pause to ordering from a chinese brand. if they could just nail these little things down, it's really a no brainer to buy from them.
-
i'm still waiting to receive mine but it sounds like even V2 doors are still coming off. i just emailed to ask if there's a V3. is there a "best practice" to keep the door on? loctite the bolt? ghetto, but tape or coating of nail polish near the little metal nub to provide more resistance?
i agree they should've had it in the down position by default and probably would solve everything and maybe V3 will have that. i just don't know if my frame will include V3 since i ordered 6 weeks ago. or should i order an backup door in case it comes off? i didn't bother after i heard there was a V2 and figured i'd be fine.
have to say, it's these little things that give pause to ordering from a chinese brand. if they could just nail these little things down, it's really a no brainer to buy from them.
Yes V3 looks like it works with gravity which is a relief.
I’ve put loctite on the v2 bolt which makes a big difference, also foam on the top edge makes a big difference too - although as it compresses over time the looseness will come back, so the bolt is the priority.
It definitely should be sorted before leaving the factory now - email to make sure as the v3 requires removing the currently riveted holder at the top and replacing it - Carol sent me a photo of the revised plate. She will send me one after I said I’ll have a go at re-riveting it myself.
In terms of service and quality, I’ve had bigger problems with much bigger brands. Fair play to Light Carbon for actually following up and revising designs and trying to solve problems - they don’t ghost you, so a big thumbs up. Considering the price,l and the newness of the frame, you’ve got to give them some leeway here. Don’t come in expecting western service levels on a bike at a quarter of the price it probably would be if you were paying like for like here (I’m looking at you Cervelo Caledonia).
I would have no hesitation in ordering from them again, and in fact I’m 99% certain to put a preorder in for the LCR020 as soon as details are released.
-
On the cover plate, I wonder if there is more at play than just the door. I have not had a single issue with my door. I did as precaution tighten the bolt but beyond that, it has not budged a mm when on the road. Smooth or rough road, it has been solid. I just got my gravel wheels setup, so I will see if things change.
I wonder if it has to do more with the tolerance of the door fitting to the frame. Same way some people need the thin plastic headset spacer and others don't. Just little tolerances and this one has a bigger impact?
-
Hello all,
Planning on ordering the frame in raw carbon with glossy clear coat. I want the LC logo in shiny silver. When I asked about this finish Chloe at LC told me that she can provide me with a sticker but I need to apply it. If I wanted them to apply it it was an 250$ extra. Was it the same for you guys ? For me there is 2 drawbacks if I do it myself : I fear I will be not properly apply it and also it will be above the clear coat.
What do you think ?
-
We had this discussion started in our club recently regarding a Trek Madone, where actually no carbon paste is recommended in the seat post area. And a comrad had a creaking saddle because of carbon paste, as it turned out.
Dirt causes creaking from the saddle rails. Very common with mountain bikes. The paste will attract the dirt.
-
finally got mine to ride. trying 48 chainring and 33-10 rear. wide crankset. 1x12 gearing and now the chain line is a bit wrong. I would now like a 44 chainring with 3mm offsets. does anyone have any tips on where to find one with 107 bcd. the bike now weight 7.7kg
-sram rival brakes/levers
-sram rival rear derailleur
-sram red wide crank
-sram halo powermeter
-coldix cassette 10-33
-lightcarbon wheelset
-onirii carbon pedals
-aliexpress carbon saddle
-shimano ultegra rotors
-vittoria rubino 34mm
-sram force flat top chain
-carbon bottle gace
the paint is the same as in the advertising pictures on the start page
-
Planning on ordering the frame in raw carbon with glossy clear coat. I want the LC logo in shiny silver. When I asked about this finish Chloe at LC told me that she can provide me with a sticker but I need to apply it. If I wanted them to apply it it was an 250$ extra. Was it the same for you guys ?
Unfortunately the laser silver sheats are quite expensive I can understand them not wanting to swallow that cost themselves. What they had offered me was a discount on the laser silver because another person had also ordered laser silver at the same time.
Two peoples stickers at once are more efficient then seperatly, since you can arrange them to take up as little sheat as possible when cutting.
If you're not in a rush maybe ask them to notify you if someone else also wants the laser silver decals so they can combine them and give both of you a bit of a discount.
-
super interesting that the flashy decals are that pricey.... you'd think, like paint, they could order it in bulk and maybe not have to have such a significant mark up.
it's common/standard on some bikes, ie. factor, some sworks, etc, but i guess that's at least part of the reason they're so expensive :-)
-
I think it's probably due to LC not beeing that big of a company, so that they don't want to order something expensive in bulk of which they don't even know customer demand. When you have one or two customers that want it per month, you're probably not going to waste expensive warehouse space on it.
-
Unfortunately the laser silver sheats are quite expensive I can understand them not wanting to swallow that cost themselves. What they had offered me was a discount on the laser silver because another person had also ordered laser silver at the same time.
Two peoples stickers at once are more efficient then seperatly, since you can arrange them to take up as little sheat as possible when cutting.
If you're not in a rush maybe ask them to notify you if someone else also wants the laser silver decals so they can combine them and give both of you a bit of a discount.
I mean they offered me the logo stickers free of charge they just don't want to apply it (if yes 250 USD extra like a custom paint). I would have to do it so I think I'm gonna go that way anyway and maybe not even stick them who knows ? I also like the full raw carbon no logo look.
-
finally got mine to ride. trying 48 chainring and 33-10 rear. wide crankset. 1x12 gearing and now the chain line is a bit wrong. I would now like a 44 chainring with 3mm offsets. does anyone have any tips on where to find one with 107 bcd. the bike now weight 7.7kg
-sram rival brakes/levers
-sram rival rear derailleur
-sram red wide crank
-sram halo powermeter
-coldix cassette 10-33
-lightcarbon wheelset
-onirii carbon pedals
-aliexpress carbon saddle
-shimano ultegra rotors
-vittoria rubino 34mm
-sram force flat top chain
-carbon bottle gace
the paint is the same as in the advertising pictures on the start page
What is the exact reference of the wheelset ? Is it the C53DB in 50 mm depth ?
-
I mean they offered me the logo stickers free of charge they just don't want to apply it (if yes 250 USD extra like a custom paint). I would have to do it so I think I'm gonna go that way anyway and maybe not even stick them who knows ? I also like the full raw carbon no logo look.
My guess: that's a "no" in Chinese language towards applying the holo decals for you.
Take that decals if they are for free and apply them on your own. For matching heights on both sides of the frame you only need to attach a elastic band ... it pulls itself more or less straight if it's not too sticky.
-
I can't add a photo here. This is my bike, which I am still very satisfied with after 3000km.
https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d (https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d)
-
What is the exact reference of the wheelset ? Is it the C53DB in 50 mm depth ?
RD923-45C
-
I can't add a photo here. This is my bike, which I am still very satisfied with after 3000km.
https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d (https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d)
Looks absolutely stunning!
-
I can't add a photo here. This is my bike, which I am still very satisfied with after 3000km.
https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d (https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d)
Awesome build, Peter! Could you send a couple more angles? I’m eyeing that exact same paint job. Also, what's the frame size? Thanks!
-
for those piecing together their bikes, while i'm waiting for my frame, i just ordered my dura ace 12 speed groupset from anrancee via aliexpress a couple of weeks ago and it arrived this past week. took about 10 days to ship, but got regular updates via aliexpress. took advantage of 15% rakuten cashback for aliexpress and there was $90 coupon at the time too. around $2000. a lot of $, but decided to splurge, even though i know ultegra or 105 are much better value. it came very well packaged, each individual part in paper and bubble wrap. chainrings weren't mounted but makes sense since you can spec the chainring and crank length size.
one of the reasons i decided to go for the LCR018D vs a off the rack bike was the ability to spec everything, so it was nice to order this groupset exactly how i wanted (ie. 11-34 instead of 11-30 cassette, crank length, chain rings size, disc rotors, etc). i was a bit nervous since it was my 1st aliexpress purchase, but reviews online reassured me and anrancee was well recommended.
also picked up some ztto 18t hollow dt swiss swiss ratchets to replace the 54t ones in the LC wheelset for a quieter hub (fyi, the older solid 18t ratchets don't work with the single spring setup LC uses -- i had one laying around that i tried), the little rubber nubs to make the top buttons on the dura ace shifters a bit more responsive, a di2 usb-c charger adapter, a co2 pump adapter, and a few more of the newer metal valved ridenow tpu tubes i plan to keep in the LCR018D's downtube storage.
the lightcarbon 53db wheelset is now mounted with tires (sworks turbo 700x30, although i have a set of conti gp5k 700x32 ready as well), dura ace 11-34 cassette, and CL900 dura ace rotors...just waiting for the frameset...
-
Hello,
Has anyone been able to find a compatible seatpost? I think that I need a 25mm offset unfortunately
-
I can't add a photo here. This is my bike, which I am still very satisfied with after 3000km.
https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d (https://bike-forum.cz/foto/detail/82068-lightcarbon-lcr-18d)
Looks amazing, more pics please! What was the frame's and final build's weight?
-
Does anyone have detailed pictures or a full kit to judge how much you can shove in the storage?
-
Does anyone have detailed pictures or a full kit to judge how much you can shove in the storage?
You can fit two of the bags plus an cycplus as2 ultra.
Does it matter what’s in the bags ?
-
Does anyone have detailed pictures or a full kit to judge how much you can shove in the storage?
I'm using two storage bags stuffed with:
- spare tube
- chain lube
- mini tool
- 2 tire levers
- some other small things
-
Hello,
Bit of a strange question, but basically I’m 1m91 (6'3") and I’ve just finished building up my LCR018-D.
I bought an 80mm stem (mistake...), but I’m wondering if the frame might actually be too small for me.
By any chance, are there any people who are at least 1m90 (6'3") who have a photo or video of themselves on the LCR018-D? I’d like to compare to see if it’s okay or if I just have weird proportions.
Thanks in advance.
-
Yes V3 looks like it works with gravity which is a relief.
I’ve put loctite on the v2 bolt which makes a big difference, also foam on the top edge makes a big difference too - although as it compresses over time the looseness will come back, so the bolt is the priority.
It definitely should be sorted before leaving the factory now - email to make sure as the v3 requires removing the currently riveted holder at the top and replacing it - Carol sent me a photo of the revised plate. She will send me one after I said I’ll have a go at re-riveting it myself.
In terms of service and quality, I’ve had bigger problems with much bigger brands. Fair play to Light Carbon for actually following up and revising designs and trying to solve problems - they don’t ghost you, so a big thumbs up. Considering the price,l and the newness of the frame, you’ve got to give them some leeway here. Don’t come in expecting western service levels on a bike at a quarter of the price it probably would be if you were paying like for like here (I’m looking at you Cervelo Caledonia).
I would have no hesitation in ordering from them again, and in fact I’m 99% certain to put a preorder in for the LCR020 as soon as details are released.
Such a pain hearing rattle coming from the storage cover while on the bike, anyone having this v3 cover can you send some pictures i want to order and change what i have now 😑
-
Such a pain hearing rattle coming from the storage cover while on the bike, anyone having this v3 cover can you send some pictures i want to order and change what i have now 😑
I asked Joy for a picture of the new cover mechanism - I added it in attachment.
-
Has anyone received the V3 of the storage cover plate? or know when they will start shipping with them? My frame is on order and probably still another month away at least so I'm hoping it will come with the revised door design.
-
my order from early april, just updated to "at painting factory" so i'm hoping to receive it 2-3 weeks to account for 2 weeks to ship to california. i was told i would have the updated storage door so will be happy to report, with photos, when it arrives.
Has anyone received the V3 of the storage cover plate? or know when they will start shipping with them? My frame is on order and probably still another month away at least so I'm hoping it will come with the revised door design.
-
Does anyone have detailed pictures or a full kit to judge how much you can shove in the storage?
On mine I have the hard / dense tools, like a foldable set of hex ends, CO2, inflator, etc. at the bottom of the tube. Right under the cover I have an inner tube wrapped in protective plastic, and above that I have more delicate things like cheater glasses. Still not full. It is less space than my downtube storage on the Diverge, but then roadbike tubes are smaller than gravel bike tubes.
-
Has anyone received the V3 of the storage cover plate? or know when they will start shipping with them? My frame is on order and probably still another month away at least so I'm hoping it will come with the revised door design.
I asked Jim late last week. He said when I asked if my bike (ordered April 4) would have the v3 door:
“Yes, frames from May 10th onwards all feature the new downtube storage cover. The new cover locks when the handle is down and opens when it's up, preventing the handle from sagring and opening due to gravity.”
-
Saddle Clamp angle slipping issue....
For some reason I'm getting continuous slipping of the saddle angle, and when the LC SD01 saddle slides back on the 15mm offset seat post, it makes it very difficult to get a hex wrench in there without damaging the seatpost paint and carbon.
Perhaps I am doing something wrong. I did not use carbon paste and have read that it should not be used here. I have not used any grease either.
The seatpost itself is not slipping down the frame, and the saddle clamp is not sliding on the saddle rails.
It's the saddle angle that is sliding and moving it backwards which is also reducing the space between the hex head and the seat post.
When it slides, it also tightens up the bolt to the point where I am stripping the head to loosen. I am using Park Tool hex wrenches FWIW (just noting that low quality tools are not being used).
Have others experienced this and if so, how did you resolve it?
-
How has dealing with lightcarbon been to you guys? This isn't my first rodeo with direct chinese sellers but i'm getting a little frustrated. they tend to ignore half my questions and repeat themselves when i ask something else.
-
Saddle Clamp angle slipping issue....
For some reason I'm getting continuous slipping of the saddle angle, and when the LC SD01 saddle slides back on the 15mm offset seat post, it makes it very difficult to get a hex wrench in there without damaging the seatpost paint and carbon.
Perhaps I am doing something wrong. I did not use carbon paste and have read that it should not be used here. I have not used any grease either.
The seatpost itself is not slipping down the frame, and the saddle clamp is not sliding on the saddle rails.
It's the saddle angle that is sliding and moving it backwards which is also reducing the space between the hex head and the seat post.
When it slides, it also tightens up the bolt to the point where I am stripping the head to loosen. I am using Park Tool hex wrenches FWIW (just noting that low quality tools are not being used).
Have others experienced this and if so, how did you resolve it?
I have the same issue, what seems to have worked was screwing with a little bit more force…
-
This morning I received an email with the track and trace code for my V3 version of the storage door from Wendy. I almost lost the door 3 times caused by the lever sliding down due to vibrations. My frame is from december 2025
-
Hello,
Bit of a strange question, but basically I’m 1m91 (6'3") and I’ve just finished building up my LCR018-D.
I bought an 80mm stem (mistake...), but I’m wondering if the frame might actually be too small for me.
By any chance, are there any people who are at least 1m90 (6'3") who have a photo or video of themselves on the LCR018-D? I’d like to compare to see if it’s okay or if I just have weird proportions.
Thanks in advance.
What size is the frame? Also, at your height, the 80mm stem was a mistake thats for sure.
-
How has dealing with lightcarbon been to you guys? This isn't my first rodeo with direct chinese sellers but i'm getting a little frustrated. they tend to ignore half my questions and repeat themselves when i ask something else.
I've had a very good experience with them thus far.
All communication has been with Jim Lee via Whatsapp.
He is responsive, informative, and helpful.
-
I've had a very good experience with them thus far.
All communication has been with Jim Lee via Whatsapp.
He is responsive, informative, and helpful.
How many questions are you asking?
They are maybe getting fed up and just not answering.
Nearly every conceivable question has been asked in this very thread at least twice over, I’d be very surprised if you can’t find what you need here.
You say it’s not your first experience with dealing direct so you should know what to expect.
They have been helpful in terms of pre and post sale for me, more so than any Chinese factory I’ve tried before.
-
This morning I received an email with the track and trace code for my V3 version of the storage door from Wendy. I almost lost the door 3 times caused by the lever sliding down due to vibrations. My frame is from december 2025
Don't you also need the other insert for V3 which is shown in this post??
I asked Joy for a picture of the new cover mechanism - I added it in attachment.
-
How has dealing with lightcarbon been to you guys? This isn't my first rodeo with direct chinese sellers but i'm getting a little frustrated. they tend to ignore half my questions and repeat themselves when i ask something else.
mine was really good until I actually bought the frame and wheels and is now patchy.
-
How many questions are you asking?
They are maybe getting fed up and just not answering.
Nearly every conceivable question has been asked in this very thread at least twice over, I’d be very surprised if you can’t find what you need here.
You say it’s not your first experience with dealing direct so you should know what to expect.
They have been helpful in terms of pre and post sale for me, more so than any Chinese factory I’ve tried before.
i'm asking for an unreleased frame that has little to no info. ::)
i asked several times for the detailed quote and i get grouped prices only. he's not fed up and my questions aren't out of the ordinary. he does reply, but to only half of my questions. the other dealers i've talked to weren't like that
-
I’ve always found them to be knowledgeable and super helpful.
Maybe it’s the what and how the person is asking the question, rather than LC
Attempting to nail down details of a brand new and unreleased frames is frankly stupid.
I’m not surprised they’re ignoring questions until they’ve finalised building the fu€&ing thing
-
i'm asking for an unreleased frame that has little to no info. ::)
i asked several times for the detailed quote and i get grouped prices only. he's not fed up and my questions aren't out of the ordinary. he does reply, but to only half of my questions. the other dealers i've talked to weren't like that
Are you talking about the 018 or the 020??
The 018 is very much released….and this is the 018 thread…. ::)
-
Don't you also need the other insert for V3 which is shown in this post??
I assume that comes with the new door. It would be weird if they shipped a new door without the parts that need to be replaced.
-
I’ve always found them to be knowledgeable and super helpful.
Maybe it’s the what and how the person is asking the question, rather than LC
Attempting to nail down details of a brand new and unreleased frames is frankly stupid.
I’m not surprised they’re ignoring questions until they’ve finalised building the fu€&ing thing
it's not technical geo or manufacturing questions. these are fair questions any other seller would have easily replied. the person i'm dealing with just doesn't read half of what i say
-
Seatpost Clamp Replacement Screw....
Does anyone have a link they can share to a titanium replacement screw for the seatpost clamp?
Mine seems to be very soft and I want to avoid stripping it.
Apologies if it's in this thread and I could not find it.
-
Jim sent me this and i need to inform Chloe that this is what i need for me to fix the problem in my frame storage. Chloe sometimes takes several days to respond. Jim whatsApp is very responsive but he told me to coordinate it to the representative who catered my frame order process.
-
....
Negatives:
The saddle clamp system. Bloody hell, that was frustrating.
About 5 km in, I hit a bump and the saddle tilted. I was fully in race mode near the front of my age group, so stopping was not an option. I managed to force it back level using my weight and hand pressure, but it kept happening throughout the race. Probably 50 times or so. I had to constantly focus on sitting perfectly centered to avoid it tilting again. Very annoying.
Second issue: speed wobbles. When taking both hands off the bars at speed (maybe around 30 km/h, didn’t check), the front end wobbles pretty aggressively. Needed to grab the bars immediately to avoid what could have been a catastrophic wipeout 😅 Definitely sketchy. Edit: problem is gone. Possibly was caused by a crash earlier in the race, creating a bit of play/disbalance in the headset area.
Also noticed a rattling sound somewhere on the bike. I suspect the storage cover, but I’ll need to investigate. I like a quiet bike.
Edit: it was my multitool rattling around in the storage :-X
...
Resolved 2 of the negatives... ran into another, but that's a squeeking BigRock crank issue so I won't bother you guys with it here.
-
Resolved 2 of the negatives... ran into another, but that's a squeeking BigRock crank issue so I won't bother you guys with it here.
I experienced this same issue with the saddle tilt on a recent ride. About 8 miles in, hit a bump, heard a creak from the saddle and thought I cracked a rail. I did not, but the saddle was tilted and there was no using a multi-tool to get it unscrewed and put back in place correctly. I was able to get it back to level enough by shifting my weight around as well, but it never stayed level. All this moving around locked the screws in so tight, I stripped the heads trying to get them off. That made for a fun time getting them out. I had to resort to penetrating oil and lightly hammering in the hex wrench to get the screws loose.
I just pulled it all apart earlier this week, replaced the bolts with titanium M5x25mm hex head bolts and put it all back together again and torqued it to 8nm. We shall see if it holds.
I'm still looking for any recommendation of a titanium seat post bolt if anyone has one that works for them. The standard one has a soft head and I'm afraid it's going to get stripped.
Having said that, I do really enjoy riding the bike. It's comfortable, relatively light, agile, and is responsive to accelerating. Just a few small quirks to be worked out.
-
I assume that comes with the new door. It would be weird if they shipped a new door without the parts that need to be replaced.
Please let us know once you received the parts and replaced them.
-
hi all - I'm looking at doing my first build from parts using this frame, but I'm a bit lost on wheelsets.
I want to be able to run 32-35mm tires which I believe means I want 24 or 25mm internal width. Also ideally under 750 AUD (~540 USD) if possible.
I think the best option I've found is these from Serenade coming in at 1350g and 740 AUD with the Sapim cx-ray spokes.
https://serenadebikes.net/gravel-bike-disc-brake-wheelset-35mm-hooked-sr038-hub-p4130241.html
But are there some other options I should consider?
-
my frame is done and painted. i got photos of not my actual door, but the door i will get, which is indeed version3. the door lever is now closed in the down position and the modified insert on the frame side is different to accommodate the change - see photos attached tina shared with me. consistent with the video posted earlier by oilegorpines. great to see the company address this issue.
apparently 0 offset posts are a bit backlogged so my frame won't ship until those are produced next week. but getting close!
-
my frame is done and painted. i got photos of not my actual door, but the door i will get, which is indeed version3. the door lever is now closed in the down position
Hopefully the new mechanism won't scratch the paint when it's used.
-
apparently 0 offset posts are a bit backlogged so my frame won't ship until those are produced next week. but getting close!
Hey! That might just be my frame with the Crystal Purple BB in the background of you first pic!
Thanks for the info on the seatpost delay, they didn't tell me about that when I asked them for an update last week.
-
Hey! That might just be my frame with the Crystal Purple BB in the background of you first pic!
Thanks for the info on the seatpost delay, they didn't tell me about that when I asked them for an update last week.
Is crystal purple the colour? Looks stunning. I'm going gloss over raw carbon, but keep thinking about a custom paint scheme.
-
what about LC own wheels? I paid $489 for their G52DB gravel wheel set with C-XRay spokes and a MS hub. 26 mm internal when I bought the frame.
hi all - I'm looking at doing my first build from parts using this frame, but I'm a bit lost on wheelsets.
I want to be able to run 32-35mm tires which I believe means I want 24 or 25mm internal width. Also ideally under 750 AUD (~540 USD) if possible.
I think the best option I've found is these from Serenade coming in at 1350g and 740 AUD with the Sapim cx-ray spokes.
https://serenadebikes.net/gravel-bike-disc-brake-wheelset-35mm-hooked-sr038-hub-p4130241.html
But are there some other options I should consider?
-
Is crystal purple the colour? Looks stunning. I'm going gloss over raw carbon, but keep thinking about a custom paint scheme.
They call it LCB-908GD / Crystal Effect [Purple]. I didn't get my frame yet but the pictures look pretty good. Custom paint is relatively expensive compared to how cheap the frame is. In total I paid almost double the base frame cost I think.
-
They call it LCB-908GD / Crystal Effect [Purple]. I didn't get my frame yet but the pictures look pretty good. Custom paint is relatively expensive compared to how cheap the frame is. In total I paid almost double the base frame cost I think.
Wow. Looks amazing. Congrats
Sounds expensive. But if you ask locally for a paint job like this, its triple the cost. At least here in austria
-
Wow. Looks amazing. Congrats
Sounds expensive. But if you ask locally for a paint job like this, its triple the cost. At least here in austria
Yeah, only expensive relative to the frame. Cheap compared to letting someone do it locally.
-
**Frame arrived Yesterday
Packaging was on point and the paint looks incredible in person.
Tomorrow the build begins 🔧🔥**
Can I ask what the decals are like? I've gone for the Laser Silver decals too, however originally I was told that they would be under the clear coat, but now Wendy tells me they will be on top.
Reason for asking is that I usually put frame protection tape on my bikes and am concerned if I have to remove it, it might take the decals with it.
Frame looks stunning btw 👍
-
They call it LCB-908GD / Crystal Effect [Purple]. I didn't get my frame yet but the pictures look pretty good. Custom paint is relatively expensive compared to how cheap the frame is. In total I paid almost double the base frame cost I think.
What does the sticker name read? You request that as well?
-
They call it LCB-908GD / Crystal Effect [Purple]. I didn't get my frame yet but the pictures look pretty good. Custom paint is relatively expensive compared to how cheap the frame is. In total I paid almost double the base frame cost I think.
Would love to know more about the custom laser decals. Im told laser decals were oos and that custom decals were like 300 per sheet
-
What does the sticker name read? You request that as well?
The downtube reads Auraxis which is the planet from the videogame series Planetside. The paintjob is a tribute to the Vanu faction from that game. I designed a rough draft in MS paint (you can request the blank paintjob pdf from LC) and sent that to Chloe who then made the professional version. I requested a few changes afterwards because I couldn't kake up my mind on what I wanted.
In the end we settled on the Crystal Purple with Chameleon 01HS and on a discount for the laser silver decals (the original 300 USD they wanted were a bit much for me) which was possible because someone else ordered laser silver and we could share the sheat (if I understood her correctly).
-
Hi everyone,
I finally finished my very first bike build! Honestly, I was a bit nervous going into it, but everything actually went incredibly smoothly. I particularly want to shout out the Shimano manuals, they are incredibly detailed, easy to follow, and made the whole process a breeze for a first-timer.
In the end, the sizing feels absolutely spot on, and the overall ride quality is very good and comfortable. Plus, the custom paint job looks absolutely stunning out in the daylight!
For those interested, here is the full spec list of my build:
- Frame and Handlebar: Frame size 500 with glossy raw carbon + crystal purple paintjob and handlebar with 380 mm x 80 mm
- Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
- Crankset: Magene PES 515 (165 mm) with Magene Chainrings (52-36T)
- Bottom Bracket: TOKEN Ninja BB47V24
- Wheelset: EliteWheels ENT 2.0 Disc (50 mm Front & Rear)
- Tires: Continental GP 5000 (32 mm Front & Rear)
- Tubes: RideNow TPU
- Brake Discs: IIIPro (160 mm Front / 140 mm Rear)
- Saddle: LightCarbon SD01
- Pedals: Shimano PD-ES600
- Bar Tape: SUPACAZ Starfade Purple (2.5 mm)
Regarding common build notes: I haven’t experienced any issues with a slipping seatpost. However, the latch on the down tube storage door did pop open once during my first ride. Luckily, I noticed it in time and managed to secure it before the door fell off completely.
Unfortunately, I also detected a major issue during that first outdoor test ride.
While taking some photos of the finished bike, I noticed a distinct mark/line on the right side of the top tube. I am completely baffled as to how this could have happened—I obviously haven't crashed (yet!) and the frame wasn't subjected to any impacts, drops as far as I know. I also obviously didn't clamp the top tube during the assembly.
The clear coat is split open and the line can be felt when running the finger over it.
When applying localized hand pressure, there is no excessive flexing (the tube still feels structurally firm).
But I also did the coin test and tapping along the tube sounds completely normal everywhere, except for that one specific grayish spot where the paint is gone. There, it emits a noticeably dull, muted thud.
I actually did another 2h test ride today after I have found the damage, and I didn't notice any issues, and the "crack" didn't seem to grow, but my confidence that the frame is safe is gone. This dead sound leads me to believe the carbon might actually be delaminated or cracked underneath, rather than it just being a cosmetic paint scratch. :(
I have already reached out to LightCarbon support to get their engineering team's assessment and discuss warranty/replacement options, but I would love to hear your thoughts. I think many of you know quite a bit more than me about carbon and could really help me determine the extent of that damage.
What do you guys think? Does this look like a structural failure to you?
Here is a Link to some high-res photos and a video of the area:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link)
Thanks in advance for your input!
-
doesn't look like just paint damage to me. beautiful paint though, how much did the paint job cost?
-
What do you guys think? Does this look like a structural failure to you?
It certainly doesn't look good. It's hard to tell from your video whether the difference in tap sounds was due to changes in the material or to a different tapping action. What does it sound like on the bottom part of the tube where most of the crack seems to be located? You may ultimately need an ultra-sound or x-ray scan to be sure.
-
Do you or maybe LC have footage from before transport? Maybe due to transport?
-
what about LC own wheels? I paid $489 for their G52DB gravel wheel set with C-XRay spokes and a MS hub. 26 mm internal when I bought the frame.
Is 26mm iw safe with 32mm tires?
It does seem like a bit of an odd gap in the LC wheel lineup that their rims go from 23mm iw and then jump to 26mm.
-
Is 26mm iw safe with 32mm tires?
It does seem like a bit of an odd gap in the LC wheel lineup that their rims go from 23mm iw and then jump to 26mm.
Why should it be unsafe? You lose some minor, minor aero gains but that’s it. The bigger the the tire to rim ratio, the mushroomier it looks. Safety wise you could go much narrower.
-
Why should it be unsafe? You lose some minor, minor aero gains but that’s it. The bigger the the tire to rim ratio, the mushroomier it looks. Safety wise you could go much narrower.
Yep I mean is 26mm too wide to run a 32mm tire. LC list 35mm as the minimum tire size on the 26mm iw rims.
-
beautiful bike/paint job! mine is similar but with ferrari red and i asked for a fade to the glossy carbon. and solid build in terms of parts. great quality and value.
curious if you got the updated v3 door with the down position as closed? would be disappointed even with that change that it’s still coming off.
and sorry to hear about the crack. assuming they take care of you, and LC does seem to be a legit company willing to stand behind their products, it will still test the patience to have to go through this warranty process with back and forth photos and questions, strip the parts you spent a lot of time meticulously installing, etc. plus another 2-3month wait for a replacement. but i guess it’s trade off we’re all making going with LC, instead of going down the street to a trek or specialized dealer. i’m sure you were excited to ride the bike this summer.
i’m trying to keep my own expectations a bit low and almost expect delays or to be disappointed… keeping my current rim brake road bike tuned and good to ride in case this LC build has hiccups
Hi everyone,
I finally finished my very first bike build! Honestly, I was a bit nervous going into it, but everything actually went incredibly smoothly. I particularly want to shout out the Shimano manuals, they are incredibly detailed, easy to follow, and made the whole process a breeze for a first-timer.
In the end, the sizing feels absolutely spot on, and the overall ride quality is very good and comfortable. Plus, the custom paint job looks absolutely stunning out in the daylight!
For those interested, here is the full spec list of my build:
- Frame and Handlebar: Frame size 500 with glossy raw carbon + crystal purple paintjob and handlebar with 380 mm x 80 mm
- Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
- Crankset: Magene PES 515 (165 mm) with Magene Chainrings (52-36T)
- Bottom Bracket: TOKEN Ninja BB47V24
- Wheelset: EliteWheels ENT 2.0 Disc (50 mm Front & Rear)
- Tires: Continental GP 5000 (32 mm Front & Rear)
- Tubes: RideNow TPU
- Brake Discs: IIIPro (160 mm Front / 140 mm Rear)
- Saddle: LightCarbon SD01
- Pedals: Shimano PD-ES600
- Bar Tape: SUPACAZ Starfade Purple (2.5 mm)
Regarding common build notes: I haven’t experienced any issues with a slipping seatpost. However, the latch on the down tube storage door did pop open once during my first ride. Luckily, I noticed it in time and managed to secure it before the door fell off completely.
Unfortunately, I also detected a major issue during that first outdoor test ride.
While taking some photos of the finished bike, I noticed a distinct mark/line on the right side of the top tube. I am completely baffled as to how this could have happened—I obviously haven't crashed (yet!) and the frame wasn't subjected to any impacts, drops as far as I know. I also obviously didn't clamp the top tube during the assembly.
The clear coat is split open and the line can be felt when running the finger over it.
When applying localized hand pressure, there is no excessive flexing (the tube still feels structurally firm).
But I also did the coin test and tapping along the tube sounds completely normal everywhere, except for that one specific grayish spot where the paint is gone. There, it emits a noticeably dull, muted thud.
I actually did another 2h test ride today after I have found the damage, and I didn't notice any issues, and the "crack" didn't seem to grow, but my confidence that the frame is safe is gone. This dead sound leads me to believe the carbon might actually be delaminated or cracked underneath, rather than it just being a cosmetic paint scratch. :(
I have already reached out to LightCarbon support to get their engineering team's assessment and discuss warranty/replacement options, but I would love to hear your thoughts. I think many of you know quite a bit more than me about carbon and could really help me determine the extent of that damage.
What do you guys think? Does this look like a structural failure to you?
Here is a Link to some high-res photos and a video of the area:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZQ9Cr1hYwupFzodC7mv3nkZ7shksKPVc?usp=drive_link)
Thanks in advance for your input!
-
doesn't look like just paint damage to me. beautiful paint though, how much did the paint job cost?
I paid 949 $ for the frame which includes the price for the paint job + the logo.
It certainly doesn't look good. It's hard to tell from your video whether the difference in tap sounds was due to changes in the material or to a different tapping action. What does it sound like on the bottom part of the tube where most of the crack seems to be located? You may ultimately need an ultra-sound or x-ray scan to be sure.
There is a certain spot where it sounds a bit dull.
Do you or maybe LC have footage from before transport? Maybe due to transport?
Unfortunately I didnt take any video after unpacking it, but I didn't notice anything during the assembly.
But the spot also easier to see in daylight, so could've missed it.
I also think that it was most likely due to transport, since this an unusual spot.
beautiful bike/paint job! mine is similar but with ferrari red and i asked for a fade to the glossy carbon. and solid build in terms of parts. great quality and value.
curious if you got the updated v3 door with the down position as closed? would be disappointed even with that change that it’s still coming off.
and sorry to hear about the crack. assuming they take care of you, and LC does seem to be a legit company willing to stand behind their products, it will still test the patience to have to go through this warranty process with back and forth photos and questions, strip the parts you spent a lot of time meticulously installing, etc. plus another 2-3month wait for a replacement. but i guess it’s trade off we’re all making going with LC, instead of going down the street to a trek or specialized dealer. i’m sure you were excited to ride the bike this summer.
i’m trying to keep my own expectations a bit low and almost expect delays or to be disappointed… keeping my current rim brake road bike tuned and good to ride in case this LC build has hiccups
This is also the V2 (I think?) door, where the door is closed when the latch is in the up position.
I have not used any loctite or increased the torque of the screw thought, that might help.
Yeah a bit of bummer with the bike, but I can still use my old bike until this is resolved.
-
I received the new v3 door for my frame. It is shipped with the part for on the frame. It comes with 2 black pop rivets to munt it in the frame. should work way better. There is also a little metal pin lock the lever in the closed position.
-
I paid 949 $ for the frame which includes the price for the paint job + the logo.
does the 949 include the handlebars and shipping? i got a much higher quote for a relatively similar paint
-
does the 949 include the handlebars and shipping? i got a much higher quote for a relatively similar paint
This was the price for the frame + handlebar + fork + painting but without shipping cost and bank fees.
-
Yep I mean is 26mm too wide to run a 32mm tire. LC list 35mm as the minimum tire size on the 26mm iw rims.
Will you be running tubeless, TPU, or butyl tubes? It also depends on which tire you're using and how snugly it fits the rim.
Dunno the LC rims, but I've tried this tubeless with Easedon gravel rims and a 32-622 Conti GP5000 S TR, and for me a 26 mm internal rim width was too wide.
The reason is that it's difficult to seat the tire onto the outer edges of the rim. Even if you manage to get it seated using an Airshot or such, the tire tends to drop back into the center channel as soon as you release pressure. Harder to get milk in and a mess if you loose pressure for some reason. Plus in my opinion too mushroomy doesnt look very good :)
But would be interesting to hear what your experience is. please report
-
Will you be running tubeless, TPU, or butyl tubes? It also depends on which tire you're using and how snugly it fits the rim.
Plan is TPU and conti GP 5000s.
Thanks for detailing your experience with those tires and 26mm rims - might give that a miss! Leaning towards the C53DB or C52DB with the 23mm iw rims as that seems to be more appropriate for my plan of 32mm tires with maybe a 35mm experiment down the line.
-
Will you be running tubeless, TPU, or butyl tubes? It also depends on which tire you're using and how snugly it fits the rim.
Dunno the LC rims, but I've tried this tubeless with Easedon gravel rims and a 32c Conti GP5000 S TR, and for me a 26 mm internal rim width was too wide.
The reason is that it's difficult to seat the tire onto the outer edges of the rim. Even if you manage to get it seated using an Airshot or such, the tire tends to drop back into the center channel as soon as you release pressure. Harder to get milk in and a mess if you loose pressure for some reason. Plus in my opinion too mushroomy doesnt look very good :)
But would be interesting to hear what your experience is. please report
A great example of why ETRTO is effectively bullshit. A 32mm GP5K should easily work with a 26mm internal - I’ve used them on much wider rims with no problems at all.
That Easedon rim design is the issue in this instance.
-
Is 26mm iw safe with 32mm tires?
It does seem like a bit of an odd gap in the LC wheel lineup that their rims go from 23mm iw and then jump to 26mm.
I have XMCS 26 internal/33 external wheels. I have used GP5000 in 28,30 and 32 with no issues. They do measure 3mm wider than labeled on my wheels. I had no issues, although it hasn't been a ton of km. Many people with the same wheels run 28mm tire with no issue. Assuming the wheels are hooked, I would have no concern personally.
-
Is 26mm iw safe with 32mm tires?
It does seem like a bit of an odd gap in the LC wheel lineup that their rims go from 23mm iw and then jump to 26mm.
perfectly fine
-
Friendly reminder that the ETRTO specs are not safety guidelines but design references. What that means is that a 25mm IW is the widest that member organizations agree that a 32mm marked (32-622) tire is designed for. They do validate safety to that width, so any brand tire and any wheel from a member company should work within those references. They may go beyond it per the manufacturers.
This is similar to tire clearance specs. A wider tire will fit and roll, but it's not validated to work within the manufacturer's intent and may rub through your paint and into the frame.
Your tires won't suddenly explode off the rim because of a 1mm difference in IW. It is an unvalidated combination in terms of manufacturer testing, with unknown amounts of additional risk. I think it's dumb to take this risk when there are validated options, but if you're open to it and want to do it, no one is going to stop you.
-
Finished my build last week and had a ride, WOW. I'm so in love with this build already. I'm coming from a 2015 endurance Pinarello and this feels SO much better. I received the frame early May, so I was hoping the new seat post grip and wedge would solve any slipping issues. It did not...took about 10k but slipped down. Other issue was the saddle rail bolts, max torque for the carbon rails was not nearly enough and it was tilting easily. Road side fix and I was able to do another 85k without issue tho. Some notes from my build in case others review this thread and take the advice posted along the way.
1. Park Tool BB 69.4 does NOT fit the CEMA ceramic BB LightCarbon offers. Standard Hollowtech II tool does however.
2. A titanium bolt was mentioned a few pages back for the seat post wedge. The bolt specified was too narrow for the wedge that came with my frame. Not sure if LC change the wedge or not...
3. This is me being a n00b, but the crown race is integrated into the fork. I was all worried it was missing from my kit.
The rest seemed all good for me. Brake mounts were clean and calipers went on straight and easy. BB shell was flawless and BB went in super easy. All in all just a fantastic frame.
-
The rest seemed all good for me. Brake mounts were clean and calipers went on straight and easy. BB shell was flawless and BB went in super easy. All in all just a fantastic frame.
[/quote]
What is the paint job called on the site?
-
Finished my build last week and had a ride, WOW. I'm so in love with this build already.
Why did you go with Flattop chain with non Sram casette?
-
Have your latest replacements for the down-tube compartment cover for free, just dm your respective sales rep. Mine already on its way.
-
Finished my build last week and had a ride, WOW. I'm so in love with this build already. I'm coming from a 2015 endurance Pinarello and this feels SO much better. I received the frame early May, so I was hoping the new seat post grip and wedge would solve any slipping issues. It did not...took about 10k but slipped down. Other issue was the saddle rail bolts, max torque for the carbon rails was not nearly enough and it was tilting easily. Road side fix and I was able to do another 85k without issue tho. Some notes from my build in case others review this thread and take the advice posted along the way.
1. Park Tool BB 69.4 does NOT fit the CEMA ceramic BB LightCarbon offers. Standard Hollowtech II tool does however.
2. A titanium bolt was mentioned a few pages back for the seat post wedge. The bolt specified was too narrow for the wedge that came with my frame. Not sure if LC change the wedge or not...
3. This is me being a n00b, but the crown race is integrated into the fork. I was all worried it was missing from my kit.
The rest seemed all good for me. Brake mounts were clean and calipers went on straight and easy. BB shell was flawless and BB went in super easy. All in all just a fantastic frame.
Nice build! Which wheels are those?
-
Have your latest replacements for the down-tube compartment cover for free, just dm your respective sales rep. Mine already on its way.
Thanks for the update on this.
I wondered how they were going to handle it. I personally don’t have any major issues with the V2 door ( at the moment ) but it’s awesome to see an update as been put in place quickly, and is being made available to current owners.
Kudos to LC
-
The rest seemed all good for me. Brake mounts were clean and calipers went on straight and easy. BB shell was flawless and BB went in super easy. All in all just a fantastic frame.
What is the paint job called on the site?
'Crystal Effect'. They had a few colours available for this finish.
-
Why did you go with Flattop chain with non Sram casette?
It is a SRAM cassette, Force to be specific. If you meant chain-rings, it's cause I bought the chain before deciding not to get a SRAM crank/rings.
-
Nice build! Which wheels are those?
LightBicycle AR465 hoops.
-
Thanks for the update on this.
I wondered how they were going to handle it. I personally don’t have any major issues with the V2 door ( at the moment ) but it’s awesome to see an update as been put in place quickly, and is being made available to current owners.
Kudos to LC
I received mine already, came in this monday. Way beter secured handle than the V1 that is now on my bike.
-
fyi, for those wondering about timelines, mine just shipped, 9 weeks after payment. custom paint and 1 week delay due to waiting for zero offset seatpost production.
-
I received mine already, came in this monday. Way beter secured handle than the V1 that is now on my bike.
Hey mate
I may be mistake but there is a 3º Version of the door, i´m waiting to get to mine, at my door end of this month (sended for free after complain the door ratles and open when riding in cobles even after tight the screw), can you show a photo of the door you received.
Cause the new door (v3), the Lock system suppose to open upwards and close downwards so gravite allways in favor to close.
Regards
-
Are there any riders from the north Florida panhandle (Crestview, Milton, North Pensacola area) in this thread? Will a 38 tire be ok for some of the backroads in that area?
Thanks.
-
Hey mate
I may be mistake but there is a 3º Version of the door, i´m waiting to get to mine, at my door end of this month (sended for free after complain the door ratles and open when riding in cobles even after tight the screw), can you show a photo of the door you received.
Cause the new door (v3), the Lock system suppose to open upwards and close downwards so gravite allways in favor to close.
Regards
Pictures already posted on page 159
-
Hey fellow V1 Door owners,
I might have something for you.
A small 5cent 3D printable part which safes you latch, door, bottle cage with bottle during the ride.
Put way to much time into it and still not perfect, but 90% is good enough for something like this :D
https://www.printables.com/model/1753559-safety-tab-thingy-for-downtube-cover-v1-lcr018-d
It's adding 2mm between the door and bottle cage, and you just have to bend the tap upwards and than you can use the latch.
Will take a little test ride now :)
Edit: Works and did not open during the ride :D
-
Hi everyone,
Is anyone running an LCR018-D frame with an Ultegra 12v (R8100) groupset?
I’m getting vibrations (rumbling) when pedaling under tension on the smallest cogs. It’s also especially noticeable on my direct-drive trainer.
My drivetrain is brand new and perfectly indexed. Has anyone noticed a similar resonance or chainline issue with this specific frame combo, or is it just my setup?
Thanks!
-
Hi everyone,
Is anyone running an LCR018-D frame with an Ultegra 12v (R8100) groupset?
I’m getting vibrations (rumbling) when pedaling under tension on the smallest cogs. It’s also especially noticeable on my direct-drive trainer.
My drivetrain is brand new and perfectly indexed. Has anyone noticed a similar resonance or chainline issue with this specific frame combo, or is it just my setup?
Thanks!
I have something similar, but i have some cheap RIRO/Goldix Chainrings, ZTTO cassette and Wheeltop FD/RD. Sometimes it sounds like the chain doesn't match the teeth of the cassette and you than get a vibration which than accumulated into more vibration and noise.
I always assume it's the cheap setup and not the frame itself.
-
Hi everyone,
Is anyone running an LCR018-D frame with an Ultegra 12v (R8100) groupset?
I’m getting vibrations (rumbling) when pedaling under tension on the smallest cogs. It’s also especially noticeable on my direct-drive trainer.
My drivetrain is brand new and perfectly indexed. Has anyone noticed a similar resonance or chainline issue with this specific frame combo, or is it just my setup?
Thanks!
It’s nothing to do with the frame or the group set, so it’s your set up.
Possibly chainline related but you don’t mention if it’s in all gears. Could be chain length ( too short )
For what it’s worth - 12 speed Ultegra should be one of the smoothest running systems when installed correctly.
-
It’s nothing to do with the frame or the group set, so it’s your set up.
Possibly chainline related but you don’t mention if it’s in all gears. Could be chain length ( too short )
For what it’s worth - 12 speed Ultegra should be one of the smoothest running systems when installed correctly.
Everything is brand new (chain, cassette, deraileur etc), it’s a R8150 Di2 groupset with a Magene P515 powermeter (ultegra chainring, not the magene one).
It only happen on the 3 smallest cogs, I’ve read that it might be chordal action.
Another thing : I’m not using any spacers for the BB because I don’t have any gap/movement, but could it be that ?
-
Everything is brand new (chain, cassette, deraileur etc), it’s a R8150 Di2 groupset with a Magene P515 powermeter (ultegra chainring, not the magene one).
It only happen on the 3 smallest cogs, I’ve read that it might be chordal action.
Another thing : I’m not using any spacers for the BB because I don’t have any gap/movement, but could it be that ?
I know nothing about Magene. See if they have a different offset- Q factor to shimano.
chordal action - dunno, you have the bike in front of you, so only you can tell.
As a basic step, I assume you degreased the factory goo from the chain ?
-
Yes you should check it, maybe by putting the bike on a stand and slowly rotating the wheel to see whether the chain “meshes” properly with the gears of the cassette or the rear derailleur, and if needed index it correctly. I had the same problem with the ZTTO cassette https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007857322027.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3gr9dXj), now solved.
-
Yes you should check it, maybe by putting the bike on a stand and slowly rotating the wheel to see whether the chain “meshes” properly with the gears of the cassette or the rear derailleur, and if needed index it correctly. I had the same problem with the ZTTO cassette https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007857322027.html (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3gr9dXj), now solved.
I know nothing about Magene. See if they have a different offset- Q factor to shimano.
chordal action - dunno, you have the bike in front of you, so only you can tell.
As a basic step, I assume you degreased the factory goo from the chain ?
Yes, that's exactly what I did, I put it on a workstand and indexed it properly. I really think it's chordal action, but I'd be surprised if I'm the only one experiencing this with this specific setup.
The derailleur and the cassette are well aligned. When the chain runs, it goes smoothly from the chainring —> derailleur —> cassette without any weird rubbing or anything. Where it actually rubs is at the exit of the cassette, when the chain returns to the chainring: that's why I suspect chordal action.
Because of this, I'd like to know if it's dangerous to add spacers, considering my crankset currently has absolutely zero left/right play without them.
-
I'd be surprised if I'm the only one experiencing this with this specific setup.
Running the exact same setup without any problems...
-
Running the exact same setup without any problems...
Did you use spacers for the BB area please?
What’s your cassette / chainring size please ? (Mine is 11-34 cassette and 50-34 chainrings, 2x12v, ultegra r8100)
-
but I'd be surprised if I'm the only one experiencing this with this specific setup.
I have the same setup and haven't had anything you'd describe. What did happen was the bolt that holds the whole crankset together became undone which obviously affects the front mech and shifting. even then everything ran smooth on the rear cassette. could it be that your chain is too long and in the smallest cogs you lose derailleur tension?
-
I have the same setup and haven't had anything you'd describe. What did happen was the bolt that holds the whole crankset together became undone which obviously affects the front mech and shifting. even then everything ran smooth on the rear cassette. could it be that your chain is too long and in the smallest cogs you lose derailleur tension?
Did you use the bolts that come with the Magene p515 or did you keep the default ultegra chainring bolts ?
Also did you use any spacers ?
-
Did you use the bolts that come with the Magene p515 or did you keep the default ultegra chainring bolts ?
Also did you use any spacers ?
The bolts that came with the P515 did not fit for me and i used the Shimano Chainbolts (Ultegra & Dura Ace Chainring Bolts) as far as i can remember. I put the cassette straight from the packaging onto the hub.
-
Did you use spacers for the BB area please?
What’s your cassette / chainring size please ? (Mine is 11-34 cassette and 50-34 chainrings, 2x12v, ultegra r8100)
Didnt use any spacers. Running a 11-34/52-36. Could there be a spacer missing in the cassette?
-
hambini's review of the LCR018-D:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBRsiEQOSnI
-
Didnt use any spacers. Running a 11-34/52-36. Could there be a spacer missing in the cassette?
I’ve looked shimano guide for the cassette and nothing is missing, I’ll take a video and upload it, it might just be in my head.
-
This is my rear derailleur, I’m wondering if my UDH from LightCarbon is correctly installed ?
-
It appears to be installed correctly...
-
Didnt use any spacers. Running a 11-34/52-36. Could there be a spacer missing in the cassette?
hello. good hint maybe check spacers again? and if the lock ring is tightend sufficently with the given torque (i think 40 Nm)?
-
This is my rear derailleur, I’m wondering if my UDH from LightCarbon is correctly installed ?
That could actually be the problem: My original hanger was bent. Had some troubles while shifting (but only in the largest and the smallest ring). Replaced it and never had issues again. Forgot to mention that before, I had the problem in January...
-
That could actually be the problem: My original hanger was bent. Had some troubles while shifting (but only in the largest and the smallest ring). Replaced it and never had issues again. Forgot to mention that before, I had the problem in January...
Thanks, I have a new UDH coming this week, I hope that it will fix my issue.
-
hello. good hint maybe check spacers again? and if the lock ring is tightend sufficently with the given torque (i think 40 Nm)?
I’ve just tried that, but the cassette was correctly installed and it didn’t change anything unfortunately :/
-
Thanks, I have a new UDH coming this week, I hope that it will fix my issue.
do you have a Park Tool DAG-2.2 hanger alignment tool or such? amazon or ali have cheap alternatives.
has solved couple of shifting issues for me already, to check and correct, if hanger misalligned
-
Has anyone seen this issue before with stem top cap not fitting right? I don’t think I’m doing it wrong, just seems to not fit properly. Attached photo
-
Has anyone seen this issue before with stem top cap not fitting right? I don’t think I’m doing it wrong, just seems to not fit properly. Attached photo
not sure from your photo if its mounted correctly. here's a pic of mine
-
not sure from your photo if its mounted correctly. here's a pic of mine
Hmmm, mine looks flat on top while yours seems to contour and follow the shape of the stem. I’ll have to follow up with Lightcarbon and see what they say, looks like I just got the wrong part. Luckily I can use a standard round one for the time being and ride the bike but do ultimately want the correct piece.
Thanks for your reply and photo to compare.
-
Has anyone seen this issue before with stem top cap not fitting right? I don’t think I’m doing it wrong, just seems to not fit properly. Attached photo
Did you leave enough space from the top of the cap? I had a similar situation, filed the fork down quite a bit, then it closed perfectly.
But it also looks a bit strange as if the top cap is not flat on the bottom.
-
Your pic isnt very good. Is this an hbr17?
I also think your fork is still too long and you might have it upside dowm
-
I can take some better pics later today. The fork is not too long, there is space between the cap and the compression plug. It’s also not upside down as the underside of the cap is unfinished and the top has a bevel for the screw to go into.
-
Hi again!
So sorry to bother you with my vibration issue (big chainring / small cogs) again.
I know it sounds crazy, but could anyone with an Ultegra Di2 R8100 (2x12, 11-34) take a quick video of their bike on a stand spinning in that gear please 🙏 (using the smallest cog) ?
As this is my first bike, I'm just wondering if this vibration is normal and if it’s all in my head.
Thank you so much for your help… sorry again
-
Hi again!
So sorry to bother you with my vibration issue (big chainring / small cogs) again.
I know it sounds crazy, but could anyone with an Ultegra Di2 R8100 (2x12, 11-34) take a quick video of their bike on a stand spinning in that gear please 🙏 (using the smallest cog) ?
As this is my first bike, I'm just wondering if this vibration is normal and if it’s all in my head.
Thank you so much for your help… sorry again
I am using ultegra 12 speed Di2 and in 52 chainring and 34 cassette, I have no issues. Make sure the chain is on correctly, writing/branding facing out. The chain can run rough if on the wrong way, ask me how I know... As others mentioned, make sure the hanger is not bent, chain line is correct and the derailleur is adjusted correctly. Not sure but if you are using a wax for the chain, I get some noise/rough shifts for the first 10km until it breaks in. Also using a shimano quick link if you are not, to help trouble shoot issue.
-
I am starting my process with Lightcarbon and really love the transparent green that Quick Pro offers. It doesn’t seem like this is one of LCs standard offerings. Has anyone managed to get this on a LC bike yet?
-
I am starting my process with Lightcarbon and really love the transparent green that Quick Pro offers. It doesn’t seem like this is one of LCs standard offerings. Has anyone managed to get this on a LC bike yet?
Someone has posted a transparent green frame in the 160 pages this thread now has, so its possible :D
-
Someone has posted a transparent green frame in the 160 pages this thread now has, so its possible :D
I have been through all 160+ pages and either missed it or didn’t see it. I did see a couple of lovely green bikes, but no transparent green. There isn’t a “search within thread” option I am missing is there (that would be handy).
-
I have been through all 160+ pages and either missed it or didn’t see it. I did see a couple of lovely green bikes, but no transparent green. There isn’t a “search within thread” option I am missing is there (that would be handy).
If you are in the thread and use the search bar you should be searching within the thread.
-
I can take some better pics later today. The fork is not too long, there is space between the cap and the compression plug. It’s also not upside down as the underside of the cap is unfinished and the top has a bevel for the screw to go into.
Do you have an update?
-
My question in not specifically related to Lightcarbon but my LCR018-D with UD black matt finish developed one shiny spot compare to rest of frame surfaces I have no idea why, but it is kinda bugging me.
Do you guys know anything how to get it back to matt with the rest of the frame?
This black matt paint is kind of pain in the ass, this was the only mistake I have made with my bike otherwise absolutely love it.
Also what do you guys think is better paint option for "livability" with frame, easy to clean, durable? I kind of starting to like look of glossy raw black, but I have no idea how it is to take care of.
Thanks
-
Also what do you guys think is better paint option for "livability" with frame, easy to clean, durable? I kind of starting to like look of glossy raw black, but I have no idea how it is to take care of.
I went with glossy raw carbon for ease of maintenance
-
My question in not specifically related to Lightcarbon but my LCR018-D with UD black matt finish developed one shiny spot compare to rest of frame surfaces I have no idea why, but it is kinda bugging me.
Do you guys know anything how to get it back to matt with the rest of the frame?
This black matt paint is kind of pain in the ass, this was the only mistake I have made with my bike otherwise absolutely love it.
Also what do you guys think is better paint option for "livability" with frame, easy to clean, durable? I kind of starting to like look of glossy raw black, but I have no idea how it is to take care of.
Thanks
Could you please show us a photo? Just to compare, I have the same colour.
-
I am also done - nothing special (black glossy, 58). The built was really easy, but omg this seatpost....this is not easy to torque the bolts for the saddle. I already feedbacked this to LightCarbon, i hope they will change the design somehow.
I will give you an update after I've really tested it.
Looks stunning. Do you have any updates since building?
Also could I ask how tall you are please?
-
Looks stunning. Do you have any updates since building?
Also could I ask how tall you are please?
Of course.
Like I said, the seatpost was a topic on its own, but i managed it - bit more torque solved the seatpost slip and bit more torque solved the seat slipping from the rails. I did short tours with good power output and I did long tours with 8 hours riding time. It is a very comfortable bike (for me) and I like it a lot.
I am about 190cm (on a good day) with about 90cm innerseam length - fits very good with a 40x100mm handlebar. Not very racey, which works fine for me.
Would I buy it again? Yes, but for my next bike I will opt for a normal round seatpost and no flush trough axles - I do like to change things over time, this is not straightgoing with the special measurements.
The colouration (raw glossy carbon) is so cool, I would chose that everytime!
-
mjohansen: And how does that gloss raw carbon hold up so far in term of that ease of maintenance or durability, any micro scratches from cleaning or anything like that?
Kwerlo: I will try to take a photo, but it is hard see this shiny spot.
-
hambini's review of the LCR018-D:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBRsiEQOSnI
Anyone else ever heard the rumor of Lightcarbon manufacturing for Cannondale?
-
mjohansen: And how does that gloss raw carbon hold up so far in term of that ease of maintenance or durability, any micro scratches from cleaning or anything like that?
Kwerlo: I will try to take a photo, but it is hard see this shiny spot.
I'm not able to answer that, since I'm building the bike right now.
-
Price increase alert!
New policy from Lightcarbon:
"Our new policy--- any kind of customized LCR018-D costs US$949/set (even putting a small logo on standard black matte frame or any simple color painting)"
-
Price increase alert!
New policy from Lightcarbon:
"Our new policy--- any kind of customized LCR018-D costs US$949/set (even putting a small logo on standard black matte frame or any simple color painting)"
Did they mention what the stock cost is with no customization? Before shipping I paid $769 ($649+$120) for one colour and they gave me the generic black stickers for free. Now at $949 that is a 40% jump. Not just lightcarbon but I never understood why a company is going to charge me to put their sticker on my frame (or wheels). It is free advertising for the company yet I need to pay to do that?
Edit: I ordered October 2025
-
Price increase alert!
New policy from Lightcarbon:
"Our new policy--- any kind of customized LCR018-D costs US$949/set (even putting a small logo on standard black matte frame or any simple color painting)"
they charge a flat 250$ for the paint job some time now. i thought it was for more complex schemes. but per your post, this seems to be a general fee now. i spoke to wendy by email and she said they are buzzing with orders. guess its extremly labour intense/costly, to do this many custom jobs.
I ordered another frame in May and i was charged those 250$ for a 3 color paint job plus custom decals. still a bargain i think, for this level of quality.
699$ ist stock cost. see my invoice attached.
-
they charge a flat 250$ for the paint job some time now. i thought it was for more complex schemes. but seem to be a general fee now.
I ordered another frame in May and i was charged those 250$ for a 3 color paint job plus custom decals. still a bargain i think.
699$ ist stock cost. see my invoice attached.
Very fair, I just updated mine to add I did order in October 2025. With the demand, I am not surprised they increased the base price but the paint is a big jump. Either way, still a good deal for sure!
-
Wendy sent me my pre-delivery photos last Sunday. I paid on April 9 and am now waiting for my tracking number. The colors are glossy black and matte black. At the time, the basic price was USD699 and the 2 color paint job USD120. Wendy gave me the down and head tube logos for free but charged me USD35 after I asked to add the chainstay logos!
-
Hi to all,
Here's a message from one of the quiet readers, who's very grateful for all the discussions and input I received thanks to the forum. I purchased my frame & wheels a while ago and had no rush for the build. I've now covered a couple of 100kms on the bike and I'm very happy with it. The ride is clean. It doesn't have a quirky or the opposite sluggish ride. It's just very neutral, pretty stiff uphill and it fits my goal of an allroad bike where I'm the guy doing 90% road whilst having the freedom to enjoy the silence in the woods or a very quiet side road. So thanks to all and I hope you enjoy the pics, I hope you might consider it as some input of what can happen if you fully use the opportunity of building a custom bike. Bring some color to your life! On a side note: this bike is only my personal use and any brand logos are only for my private usage.
Thanks again,
Jeroen
-
the coolest part of this forum is seeing everyone's creative paint jobs!
seriously, in the end, there's not that much difference between many of the higher end carbon road bikes... so to be able to make it your own, with a custom paint is a real differentiator. i considered orbea and factor partly because of their options to customize the paint. glad i found this forum and heard about light carbon for a much lower cost option.
my mountain bike (revel ranger), has a mixed gloss and matte black paint job so wish i considered that for my LCR018D. it looks sick! but wow, that klein paint scheme with the multiple fades and lightning, including up into the stem and bar is insane!! if that was $250, that is crazy good deal and their execution (not even sure how to even describe or template out something like that) turned out amazing.
-
Wendy sent me my pre-delivery photos last Sunday. I paid on April 9 and am now waiting for my tracking number. The colors are glossy black and matte black. At the time, the basic price was USD699 and the 2 color paint job USD120. Wendy gave me the down and head tube logos for free but charged me USD35 after I asked to add the chainstay logo!
The gloss and matte look great. I placed my order 20th May and was told it would be about 2-4 weeks for production, but I've now been told due to the European bike show, production slowed, so it's more like mid-July.
-
the coolest part of this forum is seeing everyone's creative paint jobs!
seriously, in the end, there's not that much difference between many of the higher end carbon road bikes... so to be able to make it your own, with a custom paint is a real differentiator. i considered orbea and factor partly because of their options to customize the paint. glad i found this forum and heard about light carbon for a much lower cost option.
my mountain bike (revel ranger), has a mixed gloss and matte black paint job so wish i considered that for my LCR018D. it looks sick! but wow, that klein paint scheme with the multiple fades and lightning, including up into the stem and bar is insane!! if that was $250, that is crazy good deal and their execution (not even sure how to even describe or template out something like that) turned out amazing.
I do agree. I like to look at 2 main things. First cool paint jobs and colors and 2nd is geometry of frames.
-
My paint
-
Just finished my build. Colours didn’t match my order (royal blue and matt carbon) and the extra cage bolt on the downtube was added above the original two instead of below per my request, but it looks great and rides really nice, got to be happy with it for what they charge!
Coming from a 2023 Supersix Evo gen3 (which I loved except for the bars were a bit low - steerer was already cut when I bought it 2nd hand, compares very well so far. I wanted a higher stack and longer front centre, the bottom bracket with Elilee carbon cranks are super stiff (I opted for no storage compartment), so I will probably use this bike for both racing and endurance rides and sell the SSEvo.
58/XL size frame weighed about 1070g, bars 320g, fork 440g before cutting steerer, total build ready to ride at 7.55kg, right about where I wanted to end up.
-
Just finished my build. Colours didn’t match my order (royal blue and matt carbon) and the extra cage bolt on the downtube was added above the original two instead of below per my request, but it looks great and rides really nice, got to be happy with it for what they charge!
Coming from a 2023 Supersix Evo gen3 (which I loved except for the bars were a bit low - steerer was already cut when I bought it 2nd hand, compares very well so far. I wanted a higher stack and longer front centre, the bottom bracket with Elilee carbon cranks are super stiff (I opted for no storage compartment), so I will probably use this bike for both racing and endurance rides and sell the SSEvo.
58/XL size frame weighed about 1070g, bars 320g, fork 440g before cutting steerer, total build ready to ride at 7.55kg, right about where I wanted to end up.
Looks cool and to hear you also have SSE is interesting. How does the stiffness compare to your Cannondale overall if you don’t mind?
-
Just finished my build. Colours didn’t match my order (royal blue and matt carbon) and the extra cage bolt on the downtube was added above the original two instead of below per my request, but it looks great and rides really nice, got to be happy with it for what they charge!
Coming from a 2023 Supersix Evo gen3 (which I loved except for the bars were a bit low - steerer was already cut when I bought it 2nd hand, compares very well so far. I wanted a higher stack and longer front centre, the bottom bracket with Elilee carbon cranks are super stiff (I opted for no storage compartment), so I will probably use this bike for both racing and endurance rides and sell the SSEvo.
58/XL size frame weighed about 1070g, bars 320g, fork 440g before cutting steerer, total build ready to ride at 7.55kg, right about where I wanted to end up.
Congratulations!
Wheels profile height?
I would have chosen the storage compartment...I think it's very convenient for storing some emergency tools without ruining the frame's aesthetics with bags and/or storage bottles. ;)
-
beautiful bike (despite the not matching your order) -- the blue to glossy carbon fade looks great.
really like the comparison to your previous ride... 23 supersix evo is a pretty solid bike, so great to hear the LCR018 compares well. i think your reasons are why a lot of us chose it: better geo in terms of stack but still racy (aero/stiff/competitive weight). very solid build too. happy if mine can be sub 8k.
hope others also post ride reviews, including comparisons to other well known bikes/brands.
Just finished my build. Colours didn’t match my order (royal blue and matt carbon) and the extra cage bolt on the downtube was added above the original two instead of below per my request, but it looks great and rides really nice, got to be happy with it for what they charge!
Coming from a 2023 Supersix Evo gen3 (which I loved except for the bars were a bit low - steerer was already cut when I bought it 2nd hand, compares very well so far. I wanted a higher stack and longer front centre, the bottom bracket with Elilee carbon cranks are super stiff (I opted for no storage compartment), so I will probably use this bike for both racing and endurance rides and sell the SSEvo.
58/XL size frame weighed about 1070g, bars 320g, fork 440g before cutting steerer, total build ready to ride at 7.55kg, right about where I wanted to end up.
-
Zen wheels are 55F/60R. 24.5mm IW, 34mm external width at widest point, 30mm tires are about 33mm WAM.
I matched a PR on a 1.6km downhill segment today, it feels more stable descending vs the SSEvo, I would love to try the new Conti 35mm STRs on another difficult descent I do sometimes, I reckon it would feel a lot less sketchy.
I would say the LC feels stiffer, power transfer through BB very responsive (tests show this too, was mentioned further up in the thread), but at same time it is just as comfortable, more so because the higher stack is perfect.
I read the comments about all the issues with storage cover coming loose but also the sizeable impact on headtube and bb stiffness in this thread, so decided to remove it. I always wanted a Storage compartment, I haven’t used a saddle bag for ages because hate the look. Funnily enough, I thought about speccing top tube bolts and with another production wrinkle, mine came with them. So I’m trialling a small aero top tube bag with electric pump and a few other bits.
-
The gloss and matte look great. I placed my order 20th May and was told it would be about 2-4 weeks for production, but I've now been told due to the European bike show, production slowed, so it's more like mid-July.
ordered mine along with wheels on the 11th of April. Got the wheels last week. email on the 11th june that it would be sent within 3 working days. Should hopefully get it next week. probably be into august by the time you get it.
-
Just finished my build
-
Just finished my build
Looks stunning. As does the location.
-
Is the Cema BB upgrade worth it or do most people stick with the Gineyea BB? I cant seem to find much about Cema bb’s but the upgrade price seem fairly reasonable if it’s worth it.
-
i added the cema ceramic bb to my order. frame is arriving in about a week so will report back how it works out. at least from hambini’s review, the t47 bb area seems well aligned, threads clean and area well faced so i’m hoping adding the cema will mean a long life.
my current bike’s been chewing through pressfit PF30 bb’s every 6-12months so i finally ordered a bb infinite for it basically to overcome the pressfit design and construction failures.
-
Can I ask, what is your height and in seam dimension?
I have ordered the exact same frame and handlebar size and I hope its good for me being at 179cm and 83cm in seam.
I now have put a few hours of riding into the LCR018-D so just want to give everyone the final specs of the bike and a quick initial impression.
Specification:
Size 54 frameset
Raw carbon, gloss finish, laser silver decals (absolutely superb - despite my love of hyper chameleon finishes, this raw carbon is by far my favourite finish).
380/80 Handlebar
Inline Seatpost
Ultegra 8170 Groupset with titanium bolt upgrades on the groupset and throughout the bike
Frames & Gear UDH Direct Mount Hanger
CeramicSpeed T47 BB
Go-Zone 45mm Carbon Wheelset, 24mm internal, CX Ray Spokes, brass rainbow nipples, GP5000 30mm Tyres, Ridenow TPU tubes
Galfer Wave Rotors, Swissstop 34RS brake pads
YBN S12 TIC rainbow chain, waxed with Dynamic Wander Wax (soon to be moving to UFO Ultra Endurance Wax)
Lightcarbon 3D print saddle and carbon bottle cages
Lightcarbon titanium garmin mount
Assembly:
Putting the bike together was a pleasure - has to go down as the easiest bike I have ever built - and this is my first disc brake bike so that is saying something!
Everything is finished to a very high standard, no problem routing any cables - handlebars are easy to route through as well - everything just works.
Di2 battery holder in the seatpost is custom made to fit and is a really nice finishing touch.
Another feature not really mentioned is the little GoPro mount which attaches to the Garmin mount in where the mount meets the bar - not out front at the actual Garmin faceplate. This is such a great little addition - it allows me to add a light to the bike but keep it nicely tucked in close to the frame - so compact and neat and not something ive seen before, so kudos to LightCarbon for this!
Initial Impressions:
If there is one word I would use to describe this bike, it would be smooth.
It's exactly as I hoped for, and exactly the bike I wanted.
Is it as responsive as a TCR? No. Is it as fast as an Aeroad? No. Dont get me wrong, its fun and a pleasure to ride, but im trying to give an objective feel of the actual ride compared to some other bikes.
BUT - its smoother than anything else ive ridden, and im willing to bet I might actually be faster over 4-5 hours on this bike than the other 2 listed, because this bike does not beat me up at all.
It is so easy on the body that after 2 hours I find myself physically in far better shape than I would be on any of my other race bikes - and thats the key.
I bought this bike for endurance, and it's ticking all the boxes - and then some.
I went for Ultegra 8170 Di2 and ive never been as blown away by a groupset.
I've been using 9150 Di2 on my Cervelo S3 which is very, very good - but this 8170 is ridiculous. Absolutely silent and shifts faster than any groupset ive ever used - even the front shifts feel like a rear shift - so smooth, fast and quiet.
I wasn't expecting that much of a difference - but it is a big difference to any groupset ive used and I couldn't recommend highly enough.
Ive added the little button "exaggerators" that slip in under the hoods to make the hidden buttons more pronounced (I got them off Aliexpress) - what a difference they make! I can press even with winter gloves and feel the clicks so clearly - a small but massive improvement.
Another big motivator for this bike was the shift to disc brakes - I have hand and wrist problems at the minute and needed something to ease the pressure and force going through my hands - especially on wet winter roads.
Overall, I am delighted with disc braking. Bleeding the 8170 was so simple as to be a joke - took 5 minutes to do both front and back. Aligning the rotors did keep me busy for half an hour as I wrapped my head around it, but now all set and silent.
I was surprised by the gradual nature of the braking - to me it feels much like a very well setup rim brake bike, but the key difference being that it feels the same even in the wet! So this is a huge improvement.
Im using Swissstop 34RS pads, so maybe other pads would give a different feel, but I am very happy with how these perform.
Another interesting bonus is the lack of external cables. The bike looks so sleek and clean - and to that point, no cables makes cleaning down the bike SO much easier!
It is such a well rounded package overall, so smooth, confidence inspiring in its stability, still agile and absolutely silent, which always brings a smile to my face when riding.
One point to mention is the handlebars. I love the look of the design, and the sloping shape gives an extra few mm of height to the shifters. However that sloping shape is not great for riding on the tops as it angles your shoulders in towards each other and feels rather cramped. As someone who loves to climb, I can see this being a slight point of annoyance in the future, so I may revisit the bars after a while and think about changing them out. Its a small point, but something worth mentioning.
It will be interesting to see when the good weather comes around again what I think of taking my Cervleo S3 out again - the LCR018-D is such a well rounded bike that covers every scenario so well, that I can see it becoming my go-to bike for most rides.
Future Plans:
There's not much more to do to the bike, but I have a couple of things i'd like to try.
1. A "best" wheel upgrade for the good days. A 50/55 ish deep set of wheels around 1200g to really make the bike shine. The Go Zones are great, and the brass nipples give me all year round confidence, but at 1380g they are a do it all workhorse. Id love a set of all out performance wheels for big days out. I'm trying to decide between DFS Carbon custom build, Serenade 50mm, Aero Raptor 50mm, XM Carbon custom build, or 9Velo - any thoughts here much appreciated!
2. A second fork. I have my current fork cut with a couple of extra spacers for maximum comfort, I'd love to get another one and cut it slammed for better aero performance on fast days. Its not that big a deal to switch the fork out, so currently debating the cost if an extra fork and an extra caliper.
Sorry for the rambling, hope this is of some use to users on the forum. Anything else you'd like to know about the bike, just reach out and I'd be glad to help.
(https://i.ibb.co/gZVbf6w2/lcr018d-3.jpg)
-
Is the Cema BB upgrade worth it or do most people stick with the Gineyea BB? I cant seem to find much about Cema bb’s but the upgrade price seem fairly reasonable if it’s worth it.
I only have 1000km on my cema bb but happy with it. I wanted to get a good BB so I did not have to pull apart the bike in short turn around. smooth, no noise and fits well (now). One bearing was undersized and I could not fit the crank in. Both LC and CEMA responded and coordinated replacement bearing ASAP. Product to customer service, I am very happy about. Time will tell on the longevity but the initial impression is good.
-
My question in not specifically related to Lightcarbon but my LCR018-D with UD black matt finish developed one shiny spot compare to rest of frame surfaces I have no idea why, but it is kinda bugging me.
Do you guys know anything how to get it back to matt with the rest of the frame?
This black matt paint is kind of pain in the ass, this was the only mistake I have made with my bike otherwise absolutely love it.
Also what do you guys think is better paint option for "livability" with frame, easy to clean, durable? I kind of starting to like look of glossy raw black, but I have no idea how it is to take care of.
Thanks
I have a painted matte black santa cruz gravel bike and added helicopter tape in quite a few areas. I was a little worried about the different finishes but I'm happy with it. The taped area becomes a gloss black finish and looks nice so I don't worry too much about all the dust collecting on the matte finish. If the wear area getting shiny could benefit from some clear tape protection, it might be worth considering as a solution.
-
I have a painted matte black santa cruz gravel bike and added helicopter tape in quite a few areas. I was a little worried about the different finishes but I'm happy with it. The taped area becomes a gloss black finish and looks nice so I don't worry too much about all the dust collecting on the matte finish. If the wear area getting shiny could benefit from some clear tape protection, it might be worth considering as a solution.
What did you use for helicopter tape and where did you get it from?
-
Here are some of my experiences with the bike, as well as the build details and weight.
Size 54 glossy - raw carbon, no storage
Reserve 42/49 wheels (25 mm ID) with DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Red 165 mm cranks.
Force 35/48 chainrings and 10-36 cassette
Force dual sided PM
Older design Rival flattop chain because I cut my Force chain one link too short. Will get another Force chain soon.
Force RD, and Rival FD.
Force E1 Brakes
Pirelli PZERO Race TLR 30 mm tires, tubeless
120 / 380 LC bars
0 setback seatpost - got the -15 in case but definitely don't need it.
LC SD02 Saddle
LC BC205 cages
Lizard Skin 2.5 mm bar tape
SRAM BB
Enduro SS bearings
Ultegra pedals
Weight with 30 mm Pirelli's, LC computer mount, pedals = 7.8 kg calculated with my digital bathroom scale.
First photo - with Michelin Pro5 35 mm tires and Panda Podium / Ahyka Aero bottles.
The Michelins were comfortable and fast rolling, measuring 37 mm on the rims. Seems like plenty of rear clearance and huge fork clearance. These tires are good for light gravel such as the rail trail near my house. The bike itself is not very forgiving, other than the nice riding position and longer wheelbase. My optimal case with these tires is mixed roads where gravel gets where you want to go, rather than choosing this for dedicated long gravel rides.
The Aero bottles seem fast, but they're smaller than the standard large bottles that I'm used to and have a significantly lower flow rate. I wasn't happy with the low flow and installed the LC BC205 cages for standard bottles. These cages were nice enough that I mounted the second set on my gravel bike. After one ride with some rough gravel that included fast downhill sections, they seem secure and quiet.
I had a bike shop cut the steer tube and advised them to cut 4-5 mm below the top. I forgot to pre-grease the bearing areas and when I greased and put the handlebar back on, the stem was just above the top - so back to the shop. They sanded the extra length off without removing the brake cables and retightened everything. Not sure I believe that they cut it properly the first time as they insisted, and that the grease somehow seated the headset stack better / lower. I believe they likely made a mistake.
But this had me thinking that if grease is helpful in properly seating the headset bearings, maybe that is something that folks should look at who are troubleshooting speed wobbles. If for any reason the ungreased headset bearings were hung up on some piece of carbon or resin and slightly misaligned, that might cause some wobble that grease could help settle things in.
With the bars setup from the shop, my first fast group ride wasn't confidence inspiring. On fast downhill with high (~30-40 kph) crosswinds, the bike didn't feel stable, feeling like a speed wobble above about 60 kph. When I got home, I found that the shop didn't properly tighten the compression plug and it pulled up even with the top cap creating 4-5 mm extra space in the headset stack. I suspect that they thought it was self-tightening with the top cap screw. Not sure if this is a thing on other plugs.
Once the plug was tight, everything was a lot more stable. But, another day with higher (40-50 kph) head and crosswinds, I had some instability that I suspected was from the big Michelins and the rim OD difference. It felt like a flutter even at moderate speeds, so I was considering a change to my 30 mm Pirellis. That decision made for me when the next day a pack of razorblades was spread over the road and shoulder near the hardware store while I zoned out riding by. One ruined Michelin later and the Pirellis were going on for sure.
The 30mm's are more stable in the strong head and crosswinds that we're having this year in the UT mountains. comfort with the 30's is good, even on our less than perfect roads, though I'm avoiding longer gravel road rides where I was comfortable on >10k of decent gravel with the 35's.
With about 650km on the bike, I love the fit, narrower 38 mm bars, bar shape, and rear-end comfort. The bike is stiff, fast and comfortable. It's definitely an aero feel - stiff with the deeper tube shapes. The back end seems to be a bit more forgiving than the front, probably due to the dropped and thinner seat stays.
This bike is stable to at least 80 kph. Above that speed I'm still more cautious than many in my Weekly group ride, especially when the downhills seem to have asphalt undulations that I suspect are from the cold winters, plus the wind. But I think I just need to learn to let it run.
It's also very stable on uneven or dirty / gravel littered roads. The week before I got my bike, I was able to demo a Dogma F. It had its positives like feeling quite smooth while remaining eager, and it was an excellent climber, but it was frightful on anything sketchy. A larger size would probably have suited me better.
The LC bars have a very comfortable shape. I really enjoy the wide aero center portion with the slight curve and forward cant.
The SD02 saddle is comfortable, though I sort of miss my Selle Italia Boost SLR. I bought an SD01 as well since I wanted to compare, but my recommendation is stick with the SD02. Both saddles seem to have the same shape and the SD02 has more padding, but certainly not soft or overly padded. Didn't try the SD01 and listed it for sale.
My seatpost is the newer one with full grippy tape. Thanks to forum tips, I had pre-greased my seatpost wedge interfaces, and saddle bolts. Initially I had some minor noises, which were all attributed to the seatpost and saddle clamps, but it was totally quiet after re-tightening the wedge bolt and adding more torque to the saddle clamps, which also prevented the seat from tilting on impact. Added some Muckoff carbon paste to a portion of the seatpost and a little on the carbon saddle rails between the clamps.
-
What did you use for helicopter tape and where did you get it from?
I got two sizes of ISC Racer's tape. 1"x30ft HT1308 and 3"x30ft HT3314 from Amazon.
-
But this had me thinking that if grease is helpful in properly seating the headset bearings, maybe that is something that folks should look at who are troubleshooting speed wobbles. If for any reason the ungreased headset bearings were hung up on some piece of carbon or resin and slightly misaligned, that might cause some wobble that grease could help settle things in.
The grease is there to protect against rust and potentially any squeaks - nothing else.
The bearing and bearing seat are conical so they can, and will only rest on one place under load. It’s basically impossible for them to get “hung up” as described it.
It sounds very much like you use a shit bike shop to work on your bike and they didn’t cut the steerer correct. No other reason than that for your issues.
-
they insisted, and that the grease somehow seated the headset stack better / lower. I believe they likely made a mistake.
But this had me thinking that if grease is helpful in properly seating the headset bearings, maybe that is something that folks should look at who are troubleshooting speed wobbles. If for any reason the ungreased headset bearings were hung up on some piece of carbon or resin and slightly misaligned, that might cause some wobble that grease could help settle things in.
I had brought up the wobbles. I can confirm both the upper and lower bearings have grease (in my case). I am now thinking it is steering sensitivity with however I have the bike setup. Moving from a 58mm front wheel (26int/34 ext) with a 35mm measured to 33 measured and then 31mm tire helped the front end feel a bit better. Now on a 50mm with a conti 111 is feeling better but still not stable as 50km+ with wind.
I just had a bike fit and hoping the slight position change helps. I spoke with the fitter about the front feeling floaty/twitchy. The saddle came down a cm and we dropped the bars 1.5cm. He hopes that should help the front end feel. Crappy weather has me yet to get a real test ride in to see. I am running the 15mm offset seat post and a 380x90mm stem (10mm headset cover + 15mm spacer). I am starting to think if maybe the rearward position is making the front end feel lighter and feeling more sensitive on the shorter bars.
I am curious if getting the 0 offset post and a set of 100-110mm bars would help, if the new position doesn't. Maintain the same overall reach but shift everything forward. Accepting the change to my position relative to the BB. The fitter said give the current fit a test, obviously, but we can discuss shifting everything forward if the problem persists. My thought would be making the stem longer would remove some of the steering sensitivity and would get some more weight over the front to reduce to floaty feel.
-
It sounds very much like you use a shit bike shop to work on your bike and they didn’t cut the steerer correct. No other reason than that for your issues.
Totally agree with this take. They were my second choice as my preferred mechanic was closed. Won't make that mistake again.
-
bike fit and handling is tricky business...
on my current rim brake bike (parlee altum) i went from 175 to 165mm cranks a few years ago for my hip impingement issue and it was awesome for my hip. but it did raise and move my saddle forward a bit to compensate and i had to get used to that from a bike handling perspective. it's at very typical i would say crit racing geometry in terms of handling, but still comfortable for long rides (probably more the carbon lay-up than geometry here). but as i got older and less flexible, i went from a 100mm to 90mm stem and that was awesome for my reach, but i did notice feeling the front end being floaty and force myself to get into the drops and really lean forward into turns to maintain maximum traction during fast twisty descents (malibu).
shorter stems typically make steering more twitchy so you could try a longer one. but that potentially is an expensive swap (parts and labor) and may mess with your fit.
i ordered 90x400 stem/bar combo for the LCR018 so hope to replicate my fit as close as possible. with slightly longer wheelbase and slacker head tube angle, i'm expecting the LCR018 to feel more stable. so it's interesting to me to hear about issues with twitchiness or speed wobbles...
I had brought up the wobbles. I can confirm both the upper and lower bearings have grease (in my case). I am now thinking it is steering sensitivity with however I have the bike setup. Moving from a 58mm front wheel (26int/34 ext) with a 35mm measured to 33 measured and then 31mm tire helped the front end feel a bit better. Now on a 50mm with a conti 111 is feeling better but still not stable as 50km+ with wind.
I just had a bike fit and hoping the slight position change helps. I spoke with the fitter about the front feeling floaty/twitchy. The saddle came down a cm and we dropped the bars 1.5cm. He hopes that should help the front end feel. Crappy weather has me yet to get a real test ride in to see. I am running the 15mm offset seat post and a 380x90mm stem (10mm headset cover + 15mm spacer). I am starting to think if maybe the rearward position is making the front end feel lighter and feeling more sensitive on the shorter bars.
I am curious if getting the 0 offset post and a set of 100-110mm bars would help, if the new position doesn't. Maintain the same overall reach but shift everything forward. Accepting the change to my position relative to the BB. The fitter said give the current fit a test, obviously, but we can discuss shifting everything forward if the problem persists. My thought would be making the stem longer would remove some of the steering sensitivity and would get some more weight over the front to reduce to floaty feel.
-
with slightly longer wheelbase and slacker head tube angle, i'm expecting the LCR018 to feel more stable. so it's interesting to me to hear about issues with twitchiness or speed wobbles...
I’ll be blunt.
There is absolutely nothing inherently wrong with the geometry of the 18-D and any speed wobble issues are down to the build, or the fit of the individual riding the bike.
For some reason this frame has attracted a lot of 1st time and inexperienced builders/ riders who write “reviews” without having a bloody clue what they’re talking about.
Lots of guessing when choosing frame and bar sizes cause these exact issues, but somehow it’s the fault of the frame never the owner doing the guesswork.
I know one of the members had a wobble issue but that was after a crash is a race, so that totally fair, but the other baseless slop It’s giving the frame an unjustified reputation.
-
I do not think it is a frame issue, I think it is a me and/or fit issue. I do not think I have stated or implied the frame is the issue. I previously asked if anyone else had an issue and have been working through different things to try and resolve it. I worked with a bike fitter before ordering to make sure I order the correct frame size and bars. Now working with him to see if my issue is position related. If this was a frame issue design, I think there would be way more issue brought up here.
Clarifying that to make sure anyone reading doesn't think the frame is the issue as POTOOOOOOOO pointed out.
-
My comments were not direct at you
-
My comments were not direct at you
I figured but wanted to make clear to anyone else reading, I am not pointing or implying it is the frame. To make clear, this is a good frame!
-
I figured but wanted to make clear to anyone else reading, I am not pointing or implying it is the frame. To make clear, this is a good frame!
Same here. The bike is great and super stable. My favorite road bike of all time.
I was sharing my experiences that some outside factors like shop / build errors and tire choice in extreme windy conditions can affect the bike feel.
-
I'm also experiencing speed wobble / frame shimmy. It only happens at speeds over 45 km/h, and the bike feels unstable whether I'm riding on the hoods or in the drops.
-
I’ve just finished the Quebrantahuesos race in Spain—197 km with 3,600 meters of elevation gain—on my LightCarbon bike, hitting top speeds of 78 km/h, and I didn't have a single issue. The bike performs perfectly. Best regards.
-
congrats on the ride/race, the build (bike looks great -- is that the titanium garmin/wahoo mount i see?) and feedback on the performance (lack of wobbles).
I’ve just finished the Quebrantahuesos race in Spain—197 km with 3,600 meters of elevation gain—on my LightCarbon bike, hitting top speeds of 78 km/h, and I didn't have a single issue. The bike performs perfectly. Best regards.
-
AlvaroSL: That build looks pretty amazing. What exact white color that is, pearl white or pure white and what finish is on those xmcs rims? Thanks
-
I’ve just finished the Quebrantahuesos race in Spain—197 km with 3,600 meters of elevation gain—on my LightCarbon bike, hitting top speeds of 78 km/h, and I didn't have a single issue. The bike performs perfectly. Best regards.
How many spacers did you install in total? I thought max is 40 mm
-
Thanks. Indeed, it’s the titanium mount; it gives it a spectacular look. The wheels are the XMCS model, featuring a 24 mm internal width and a glossy finish, paired with 32 mm tires. I have five spacers installed. The color is Chameleon White.
-
Is the Garmin mount Light Carbon or another brand?
Do you have a link?
-
I'm now wondering about the large stack of spacers.
Before deciding on the LCR018D, I had a bike sizing session. I was convinced that size 56 would be the right choice, but the fitter said my position would be too aggressive because I'm 182.5 cm tall with a 92.5 cm inseam (yes, I know that's a pretty unusual combination).
He recommended going with size 58 and an 80 mm stem. My concern is that such a short stem might make the steering feel too quick and also leaves me with very little room for future adjustments.
Do you think a size 56 with a 90 mm stem and 40-50 mm of spacers is a viable setup? Has anyone here actually ridden the LCR018D with that many spacers and if so, how does it affect the handling and front-end stiffness in real-world riding?
-
Is the Garmin mount Light Carbon or another brand?
Do you have a link?
Lightcarbon offers the titanium mount at an additional cost. I bought one and it looks nice but went with the shorter 3D print out front mount a user posted on here previously. Lighter and kept the Garmin closer to the bars.
I'm now wondering about the large stack of spacers.
He recommended going with size 58 and an 80 mm stem.
Do you think a size 56 with a 90 mm stem and 40-50 mm of spacers is a viable setup? Has anyone here actually ridden the LCR018D with that many spacers and if so, how does it affect the handling and front-end stiffness in real-world riding?
You have to account for the bearing cap being 10mm and bars giving 8mm rise. Are you looking at 10mm bearing cap + 40-50mm spacers + 8mm bar rise (60-70mm total) or 40-50mm including the cap and bars? If the second, you should be fine. 20-30mm is nothing wild but I would not want to go over 30mm of spacer. If you and/or the fitter did not realize the bearing cap/bar rise, maybe double check with the fitter to see if that changes anything. Also the 15mm offset vs 0 offset seat post. It will change your position relative to the BB but could shift you forward to run a longer stem.
LC is hopefully going to release a 25mm riser bar in the future. Pair that with the 56 and you gain an extra 15mm over the HBR17. That is a down the road solution but is an option.
I got a bike fit before purchasing and went with what the fitter said. There is a reason I went to them in the first place. I want to trust your fitter knows what they are doing and is the "expert" on the matter. If they had all the relevant information, their suggestion should be the best fit for you. But I totally get your concern.
-
I know this topic has already been discussed, but I can’t find it again here in the forum. Is it normal to have this gap between the headset and the spacers? I still have to cut the steerer tube, but it seems very large to me. I haven’t even installed the spacer of 0,7 shown in the picture, because I’ve already read that it can also be left out
I have the exact same problem. How did you solve it? Were you able to press the compression ring more deep in the headset bearing? Is it difficult to do so, do you need a lot of force?
-
not that i asked if it was an option, but given i went with a glossy clear coat on my LCR018, a glossy finish on the LC wheelset i ordered at the same time would've been nice.
Thanks. Indeed, it’s the titanium mount; it gives it a spectacular look. The wheels are the XMCS model, featuring a 24 mm internal width and a glossy finish, paired with 32 mm tires. I have five spacers installed. The color is Chameleon White.
-
my LCR018 should arrive this weekend! right at 12 weeks from order (8 weeks frame build, 2 weeks to paint, 2 weeks to ship).
any suggestions/tips, things to check, to do with the build for a new owner? i plan to do a check the bb area, brake mount surfaces, headset surfaces and hopefully confirm a v3 storage cover. also will put some paint protection film (generic 3M stuff off amazon) on at minimum the chainstay, but maybe also the bottom bracket and downtube area if the chainstay doesn't go too bad. and then maybe even a coat of car spray wax to protect the finish.
it's my first bike where i got the frame new (previous bikes were used and already built) and with custom paint. my other road bike has maintenance free matte paint and the gravel is titanium :-)
seen the tips on greasing the seat post clamp mechanism plus maybe 1-2 extra nm on the bolt to secure the seatpost. bought the enduro headset bearings as cheap insurance to not have to touch it for a while, given this is also my 1st bike with integrated cockpit. chain is already stripped and waxed (not sized of course). plan to use a shop to install the di2 groupset, but will have to partially build it up to sit on it and confirm how many spacers i'll want (it should be a single 10mm spacer under the stem).
not sure i've been this excited about a new bike in a long time. maybe it's the wait and anticipation, or the ability to customize so many aspects of it, but it's been pretty fun process.
-
I always adhere to this: https://www.continental-tires.com/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/ (https://www.continental-tires.com/tire-knowledge/tire-rim-combinations-etrto-standards/)
Note that that is a functional list - it has nothing to do with aerodynamics. Most people are buying wheels for aero gains, but putting a modern wider road tire on a narrow wheelset just because it mounts OK isn't really following what they were setting out to do.
-
Lightcarbon offers the titanium mount at an additional cost. I bought one and it looks nice but went with the shorter 3D print out front mount a user posted on here previously. Lighter and kept the Garmin closer to the bars.
You have to account for the bearing cap being 10mm and bars giving 8mm rise. Are you looking at 10mm bearing cap + 40-50mm spacers + 8mm bar rise (60-70mm total) or 40-50mm including the cap and bars? If the second, you should be fine. 20-30mm is nothing wild but I would not want to go over 30mm of spacer. If you and/or the fitter did not realize the bearing cap/bar rise, maybe double check with the fitter to see if that changes anything. Also the 15mm offset vs 0 offset seat post. It will change your position relative to the BB but could shift you forward to run a longer stem.
LC is hopefully going to release a 25mm riser bar in the future. Pair that with the 56 and you gain an extra 15mm over the HBR17. That is a down the road solution but is an option.
I got a bike fit before purchasing and went with what the fitter said. There is a reason I went to them in the first place. I want to trust your fitter knows what they are doing and is the "expert" on the matter. If they had all the relevant information, their suggestion should be the best fit for you. But I totally get your concern.
Good point. I have considered 8 mm rise on handlebar, but no 10 mm bearing cap. Do you know something more about 25 mm riser cockpit?
-
Good point. I have considered 8 mm rise on handlebar, but no 10 mm bearing cap. Do you know something more about 25 mm riser cockpit?
Not really, beyond some pictures/videos from the bike shows over the past month. It's a 25mm riser bar from LC and it should "hopefully" be available in the coming months. I would guess it will be available around the time the LCR020 is available (towards the end of Q3/start of Q4 I believe).
-
I ordered mine a week after you but without painting and it was delayed. Do you have a tracking number for it.
my LCR018 should arrive this weekend! right at 12 weeks from order (8 weeks frame build, 2 weeks to paint, 2 weeks to ship).
-
yes, they provided me the tracking # a couple days after it shipped. but the tracking # doesn't really track until the bike lands in the US and UPS gets a hold of it. once it's in the US, you get a confirmed "expected delivery date" from UPS and for me, it was only another 2-3 days before delivery.
but the LC rep told me to expect that and the same thing happened with the wheelset that was delivered about a month ago... tracking didn't kick in until 2-3 days before it arrived.
yes, i've heard about delays re: handlebar size availability, and even mine was delayed 1 week waiting for zero offset seatpost production. i pretty much set my expectations at 3 months so am not disappointed. but i can understand the frustration if you expected it sooner.
I ordered mine a week after you but without painting and it was delayed. Do you have a tracking number for it.
-
I am 1.8 meters tall and ride a size 54. I had both pre-purchase and post-purchase biomechanical assessments done.
-
jksu, did your frameset require a signature when delivered by UPS. I am in the USA also (Texas) and currently have waited 10 weeks. I am hoping any day now I will get an email about my order status.
-
I am 1.8 meters tall and ride a size 54. I had both pre-purchase and post-purchase biomechanical assessments done.
i mean no disrespect, but I find that astonishing.
If you’re happy with comfort and the way it handles, that’s all that matters.
-
Not really, beyond some pictures/videos from the bike shows over the past month. It's a 25mm riser bar from LC and it should "hopefully" be available in the coming months. I would guess it will be available around the time the LCR020 is available (towards the end of Q3/start of Q4 I believe).
Wendy replied that riser HBR20 cockpit will cost extra 63$ and will be available at the end of the year
-
I didn't get a tracking number for the wheels I ordered. They just turned up. My contact went slow after I purchased the frame and wheels.
yes, they provided me the tracking # a couple days after it shipped. but the tracking # doesn't really track until the bike lands in the US and UPS gets a hold of it. once it's in the US, you get a confirmed "expected delivery date" from UPS and for me, it was only another 2-3 days before delivery.
but the LC rep told me to expect that and the same thing happened with the wheelset that was delivered about a month ago... tracking didn't kick in until 2-3 days before it arrived.
yes, i've heard about delays re: handlebar size availability, and even mine was delayed 1 week waiting for zero offset seatpost production. i pretty much set my expectations at 3 months so am not disappointed. but i can understand the frustration if you expected it sooner.
-
Hi all, I’ve been lurking here and on Reddit, scouring for all the videos and posts about this frame that I can find. I’m wondering if anyone (who has not shared this already in this thread) would be willing to share tire clearance stats, for science?
I know the frame is rated for 38C. I’ve heard accounts of people being able to fit 40s on 23mm IW rims in the rear; I’ve also heard accounts of 35C tires being tight. I’m just looking for more data points here.
For context, I would really love to be able to run a pair of 40C gravel tires on this bike. I don’t need more than that for my area, but do need more than 35C. Do you think this frame would let me get away with gravel tires (gravelking X1?) at 40C or even 42C in the front, and 38C or 40C in the rear? I would get a GRX Di2 2x12 drive train for this bike for the few extra mm of clearance afforded by the front mech. I also have a set of Elitewheels Marvel G35s with 22mm IW for my gravel wheels.
Thanks in advance for insights, measurements and/or pics!
-
up to you how close you want your tires to run but measured there’s 46mm between the chainstays. so i’d say 40mm measured with 3mm remaining on each side is definitely doable.
but if you ride in any kind of mud/dirt, you may risk some scratches going with only 3mm clearance on each side. i do that running 47mm wide tires on my gravel bike but it’s titanium. for a carbon frame, i would probably want at least 4-6mm clearance...so light carbon's recommended max 38 is reasonable.
Hi all, I’ve been lurking here and on Reddit, scouring for all the videos and posts about this frame that I can find. I’m wondering if anyone (who has not shared this already in this thread) would be willing to share tire clearance stats, for science?
I know the frame is rated for 38C. I’ve heard accounts of people being able to fit 40s on 23mm IW rims in the rear; I’ve also heard accounts of 35C tires being tight. I’m just looking for more data points here.
For context, I would really love to be able to run a pair of 40C gravel tires on this bike. I don’t need more than that for my area, but do need more than 35C. Do you think this frame would let me get away with gravel tires (gravelking X1?) at 40C or even 42C in the front, and 38C or 40C in the rear? I would get a GRX Di2 2x12 drive train for this bike for the few extra mm of clearance afforded by the front mech. I also have a set of Elitewheels Marvel G35s with 22mm IW for my gravel wheels.
Thanks in advance for insights, measurements and/or pics!
-
no signature required. tracking from 3 days ago was accurate, delivered to my doorstep today. eta from ups was by 9pm, got it at 3:45pm :-). so total about 12 weeks from order to delivery. packing wasn’t fancy but effective.
paint looks amazing! v3 storage door looks solid.
everything is faced. interior with the endoscope looks clean.
only glitch is the screws for the wahoo insert of the titanium out-front mount are too short. hope i can source some locally rather than waiting another 2 weeks from LC. (edit: dummy i am, screws go in from the bottom and worked fine)
spent afternoon applying paint protection ($15 aliexpress) and then ceramic coated it. dropping it off at the shop for the build tomorrow!
jksu, did your frameset require a signature when delivered by UPS. I am in the USA also (Texas) and currently have waited 10 weeks. I am hoping any day now I will get an email about my order status.
-
tell me more
spent afternoon applying paint protection ($15 aliexpress) and then ceramic coated it. dropping it off at the shop for the build tomorrow!
-
spent afternoon applying paint protection ($15 aliexpress) and then ceramic coated it.
Can you support with product names? Received my frame, would like to do the same, but no experience.
-
Hi all, I’ve been lurking here and on Reddit, scouring for all the videos and posts about this frame that I can find. I’m wondering if anyone (who has not shared this already in this thread) would be willing to share tire clearance stats, for science?
I know the frame is rated for 38C. I’ve heard accounts of people being able to fit 40s on 23mm IW rims in the rear; I’ve also heard accounts of 35C tires being tight. I’m just looking for more data points here.
For context, I would really love to be able to run a pair of 40C gravel tires on this bike. I don’t need more than that for my area, but do need more than 35C. Do you think this frame would let me get away with gravel tires (gravelking X1?) at 40C or even 42C in the front, and 38C or 40C in the rear? I would get a GRX Di2 2x12 drive train for this bike for the few extra mm of clearance afforded by the front mech. I also have a set of Elitewheels Marvel G35s with 22mm IW for my gravel wheels.
Thanks in advance for insights, measurements and/or pics!
They have an almost identical looking frame but with more tyre clearance for gravel, just buy that instead.
-
I'm now wondering about the large stack of spacers.
Before deciding on the LCR018D, I had a bike sizing session. I was convinced that size 56 would be the right choice, but the fitter said my position would be too aggressive because I'm 182.5 cm tall with a 92.5 cm inseam (yes, I know that's a pretty unusual combination).
He recommended going with size 58 and an 80 mm stem. My concern is that such a short stem might make the steering feel too quick and also leaves me with very little room for future adjustments.
Do you think a size 56 with a 90 mm stem and 40-50 mm of spacers is a viable setup? Has anyone here actually ridden the LCR018D with that many spacers and if so, how does it affect the handling and front-end stiffness in real-world riding?
I´m 181cm with a 91 inseam and ride a 56. I went for a 100-380 bar. Put 30mm of spacer underneath the bar. Fits me perfectly.
-
I'm 178 with 87 cm inseam and i ride a 54 with a 380/90mm handlebar. 2,5cm of spacers. fits me perfectly. been doing some 200 km plus rides -> no pain, no numbness
-
similar stuff used for cars to protect from chips and scratches. ridewrap is a name brand version for bikes that is custom cut for popular bikes (ie tarmac, etc).
the paint from LC appears really great…smooth, thick clear coat. i’ve had used steel bikes with a bunch of chips and scratches in the thin clear coat i wish had paint protection. so this paint protection film may be overkill. but for a few dollars and some time for a brand new frame, i figured i’d do it.
Road Bike Frame Decal Clear Scratch-Resistant Protector Bicycle Sticker MTB Guard TPU specific Cropped Universal Protective Film
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrRLKN5
it’s generic but the pieces fit my 56 frame well. youtube some tips and instructions… i used the wet method. it comes with a little spray bottle and squeegee so pretty comprehensive package for the price. also used hair dryer for tougher corners to help mold/stretch the film.
used a relative cheap ceramic hybrid spray coating i use on the car… just spray some onto a corner of microfiber towel and wipe and buff the entire frame after applying the film. should help keep repel sweat, dust, water, etc off the frame for a bit.
Can you support with product names? Received my frame, would like to do the same, but no experience.
-
I've use turtle wax spray ceramic coating on my current bikes or did you use the more expensive longer lasting type ones?
used a relative cheap ceramic hybrid spray coating i use on the car… just spray some onto a corner of microfiber towel and wipe and buff the entire frame after applying the film. should help keep repel sweat, dust, water, etc off the frame for a bit.
-
They have an almost identical looking frame but with more tyre clearance for gravel, just buy that instead.
Hold up, which one? Is that the new aero gravel frame coming out?
-
Hold up, which one? Is that the new aero gravel frame coming out?
Yes, it’s not exactly new. We’ve known about it for probably 8 months or so.
-
Hi, I just wanted to make sure. Is it okay to mount a GRX Di2 2x12 on this frame? I’m thinking, for example, about the front derailleur mounting height (smaller chainrings like 46/30, 48/31), the chainline, and the GRX axle length. :)
-
I had brought up the wobbles.
I just had a bike fit and hoping the slight position change helps. I spoke with the fitter about the front feeling floaty/twitchy.
My thought would be making the stem longer would remove some of the steering sensitivity and would get some more weight over the front to reduce to floaty feel.
Got out for a good ride this weekend to test things after the bike fit. Before, I was getting some wobble around 45–50 km, but this time I hit 60 km/h on descents and it felt solid.
Going to keep building up speed gradually and see if anything comes back, especially in different conditions. These descents were pretty sheltered from crosswinds, so I’m curious how it’ll feel out in the open. If it was something like steering sensitivity before, crosswinds should make that pretty obvious.
Either way, it isn’t the frame, more of a position/setup thing and definitely moving in the right direction on the bike.
-
Hi, I just wanted to make sure. Is it okay to mount a GRX Di2 2x12 on this frame? I’m thinking, for example, about the front derailleur mounting height (smaller chainrings like 46/30, 48/31), the chainline, and the GRX axle length. :)
I helped a friend build hers up with mechanical 2 by 12 speed grx and it all works perfectly.
-
Got out for a good ride this weekend to test things after the bike fit. Before, I was getting some wobble around 45–50 km, but this time I hit 60 km/h on descents and it felt solid.
Going to keep building up speed gradually and see if anything comes back, especially in different conditions. These descents were pretty sheltered from crosswinds, so I’m curious how it’ll feel out in the open. If it was something like steering sensitivity before, crosswinds should make that pretty obvious.
Either way, it isn’t the frame, more of a position/setup thing and definitely moving in the right direction on the bike.
are you running a tubeless setup? can't tell from the pictures. have you tried balancing your wheels? tubeless valves have around 10g +/- a few gramms more.
i think balancing makes a big difference, especially with tubeless setups.
lovely red color by the way 8)
-
Yes, it’s not exactly new. We’ve known about it for probably 8 months or so.
Well new to me at least :) … that’s pretty neat that they’re making a gravel frame that leans even more towards road geometry than the current trend. Now I just need to figure out whether 32C tires will look weird mounted to a frame with clearance for 50+ :-\ but I suppose that’s a discussion for another forum
-
are you running a tubeless setup? can't tell from the pictures. have you tried balancing your wheels? tubeless valves have around 10g +/- a few gramms more.
i think balancing makes a big difference, especially with tubeless setups.
lovely red color by the way 8)
I had balanced the 58mm wheels when getting wobble, did not solve it. Currently on 50s that are not balanced and it is better. I was under the impression balancing tubeless is less helpful because of the sealant. Maybe it doesn't hurt to do it to the 50s but that will be if the wobble comes back as I work up to faster speeds.
Thank you, it is Ferrari red.
-
I just received my frameset (bougt it directly at Eurobike 8) ), but I did not get the handlebars as I did not like the look at all.
I was thinking of buying the Tavelo AVRO Gen-1, but they are pretty pricey.
Do you have anything to recommend that would pair nicely with the frameset? There are so many options out there, I'm a bit lost tbh.
Thanks ;D
-
I had balanced the 58mm wheels when getting wobble, did not solve it. Currently on 50s that are not balanced and it is better. I was under the impression balancing tubeless is less helpful because of the sealant. Maybe it doesn't hurt to do it to the 50s but that will be if the wobble comes back as I work up to faster speeds.
Thank you, it is Ferrari red.
you shouldnt do the balancing with sealant already inside the tire. is that what you ment? i always put on tire. balance. fill sealant in
-
you shouldnt do the balancing with seallant already inside the tire. is that what you ment? i always put on tire. balance. fill sealant in
I agree on the process to balance the wheel.
I was under the impression once you put the sealant in, the previous balance is pointless. As sealant dries and may not evenly spread in the tire, there will be new heavy spots. Where with a tube setup, the weight remains in the same spot the whole time (nothing moving within the wheel), so it makes more sense.
If I still get issues as I go up in speed, I wil balance to remove potential sources. But for now, we shall see.
-
yes, common car parts store stuff (can't remember if it was turtle wax or meguiars or chemical guys).
I've use turtle wax spray ceramic coating on my current bikes or did you use the more expensive longer lasting type ones?
-
could be related...deeper wheels, aero bottles, aero frame area all going to make you more sensitive to side winds. and if it's on descents, with your weight back on the setback seatpost and slightly shorter stem, you'll be unweighting that aero front wheel even more...
I had balanced the 58mm wheels when getting wobble, did not solve it. Currently on 50s that are not balanced and it is better. I was under the impression balancing tubeless is less helpful because of the sealant. Maybe it doesn't hurt to do it to the 50s but that will be if the wobble comes back as I work up to faster speeds.
Thank you, it is Ferrari red.
-
could be related...deeper wheels, aero bottles, aero frame area all going to make you more sensitive to side winds. and if it's on descents, with your weight back on the setback seatpost and slightly shorter stem, you'll be unweighting that aero front wheel even more...
I do not doubt the wheel is connected. That is why I moved down from 58 to 50. Once I get the bike feeling good on the 50, I will throw the 58 back on to test. I was talking about balanced vs unbalanced in that response.
I think the front end is currently sensitive to steering input with my weight farther back with the short stem, like you said. I am hoping with the bike fit I had, the small positional changes will shift the weight. Otherwise I will try something else with the fitter. Partly why I pointed out in my post earlier when I got up to 60km,it was sheltered roads and to try with some crosswind will be interesting.
-
ps. i like the ferrari red too!
I do not doubt the wheel is connected. That is why I moved down from 58 to 50. Once I get the bike feeling good on the 50, I will throw the 58 back on to test. I was talking about balanced vs unbalanced in that response.
I think the front end is currently sensitive to steering input with my weight farther back with the short stem, like you said. I am hoping with the bike fit I had, the small positional changes will shift the weight. Otherwise I will try something else with the fitter. Partly why I pointed out in my post earlier when I got up to 60km,it was sheltered roads and to try with some crosswind will be interesting.
-
on a side note, when i went to drop off my frame and parts for the build this weekend, i noticed there was a XDS road bike on the work stand. it's the first one i'd seen in real life. apparently the shop was starting to carry them (sold out their entire initial batch).
a couple of mechanics noticed my frame and came over to ask about it and light carbon. definitely bike shops are more aware if not out right involved with selling and servicing chinese brand bikes now.
-
Just an FYI, I ordered my frameset with custom paint on April 16th and today I received pictures of the painted frameset. So that is 10 weeks and 4 days. Chloe says it will ship tomorrow :)
frameset size 54 and bars are 400/80.
-
Just an FYI, I ordered my frameset with custom paint on April 16th and today I received pictures of the painted frameset. So that is 10 weeks and 4 days. Chloe says it will ship tomorrow :)
frameset size 54 and bars are 400/80.
Same. I ordered a week earlier than you but had top tube bag mounts included which added a week. Looking forward to finally getting the frameset.
-
another youtube review:
https://youtu.be/XhjC0B_QZe8?is=yl5hYmBjQss20e9X
-
Frame arrived today UK ordered on April 11th. stock matt black in size 47 with a straight post and a 380/90 bar
frame 1110g with is more than ~6% more not the -/+ 4% they advertise
fork 450g with axle
Bar 285g
post 205g
-
that's a bummer about the weight, especially since matte black should be the lightest. that bar weight is impressively light though. maybe cut the post if you don't need all of it?
i honestly didn't even bother weighing mine. i figured it's an aero frame and i got it painted. knew it'd be at least 200gms heavier than my current rim brake bike. hoping the whole "aero is everything" is true and noticeable when i finally ride it.
Frame arrived today UK ordered on April 11th. stock matt black in size 47 with a straight post and a 380/90 bar
frame 1110g with is more than ~6% more not the -/+ 4% they advertise
fork 450g with axle
Bar 285g
post 205g
-
Is anyone using plastic computer mount with computer (Karoo) and Insta X5? I am wondering if the mount holds the weight of both. I don't want to mount under the bar on default GoPro mount, but add adapter right under computer interface.
-
I use the handlebar on my titanium gravelbike with an karoo 2 and a plastic mount on single trails. Everthing seems fine :)
-
Finally built mine up
Went together very easily and is a joy to ride.
Has anyone sprung for the titanium mount, worth ordering?
-
that's a bummer about the weight, especially since matte black should be the lightest. that bar weight is impressively light though. maybe cut the post if you don't need all of it?
i honestly didn't even bother weighing mine. i figured it's an aero frame and i got it painted. knew it'd be at least 200gms heavier than my current rim brake bike. hoping the whole "aero is everything" is true and noticeable when i finally ride it.
Well maybe the extra grammage is going to make it stronger.
-
i'd be wary. it's nice they include one but just holding the stock plastic one, it feels quite flimsy. if you do, keep a leash on those expensive devices. might look at an alloy aftermarket one, or consider ordering the titanium one from lightcarbon.
i've stuck with k-edge for my other computer mounts and they have been solid. but even i got a little nervous going up from a 500 to 1100 lumen light that was heavier and adding more torque to the mount.
Is anyone using plastic computer mount with computer (Karoo) and Insta X5? I am wondering if the mount holds the weight of both. I don't want to mount under the bar on default GoPro mount, but add adapter right under computer interface.
-
your bike looks fantastic! can't wait for mine to be built up (at the shop, hope to get it back next week)
yes, i got the titanium mount - for $10 it was a no brainer. superlight and while i haven't tested it, it's titanium so wouldn't expect it to snap or break. what i didn't expect was i thought it was $10 upcharge, but they still included the plastic/stock mount. similarly, i asked for an extra derailleur hanger. i got 3 in the box, so i guess they include 2 by default. that was nice to see. i did pay $10 for an extra down-tube storage bag in order to potentially use the 2nd bag to store a vest/jacket/gel.
and i paid $70 for the cema ceramic bb. that was upcharge i guess, since there wasn't another bb in the box. if i had to do it over, maybe would've just saved up for a chris king one. but willing to see how long this cema ceramic lasts.
Finally built mine up
Went together very easily and is a joy to ride.
Has anyone sprung for the titanium mount, worth ordering?
-
i'd be wary. it's nice they include one but just holding the stock plastic one, it feels quite flimsy. if you do, keep a leash on those expensive devices. might look at an alloy aftermarket one, or consider ordering the titanium one from lightcarbon.
i've stuck with k-edge for my other computer mounts and they have been solid. but even i got a little nervous going up from a 500 to 1100 lumen light that was heavier and adding more torque to the mount.
Absolute crap. The standard plastic mount isn’t flimsy at all. No problem with an Exposure Strada and a Wahoo mounted when riding gravel.
-
glad you've had good luck with it POTOOOOOOOO!
Absolute crap. The standard plastic mount isn’t flimsy at all. No problem with an Exposure Strada and a Wahoo mounted when riding gravel.
-
built up with 105 DI2, pedals and garmin mount it comes in at 8.18 KG. wheels are 1630g so under 8kg very easily done. Of course once I add bottles, tools and my dat ass it isn't going to be relevant ;D
-
Hi guys, what's the clearance like with sram 2x. I did check all the pages but maybe I still missed it?
-
Did anyone get any discount because of some sale/Black Friday/11.11/etc?
Also, damn, some bikes have really amazing paint job...
-
haven't heard of any discounts...if anything, prices have crept up, probably from increasing demand and backlogs. but could also be related to tariffs, fuel and transportation costs.
Did anyone get any discount because of some sale/Black Friday/11.11/etc?
Also, damn, some bikes have really amazing paint job...
-
Another youtube review
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dmuZ2tExb8U&pp=ygUGTGNyMDE4
-
not clear which version down tube storage door he has, but good tips to loctite the screws and add some thicker door edge tape to avoid rattling. and maybe tuck in the storage bags zipper pull :-)
Another youtube review
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dmuZ2tExb8U&pp=ygUGTGNyMDE4
-
built up with 105 DI2, pedals and garmin mount it comes in at 8.18 KG. wheels are 1630g so under 8kg very easily done. Of course once I add bottles, tools and my dat ass it isn't going to be relevant ;D
Not really bothered too much about the weight either, my 52cm came in at 7kg:
- Ultegra 12s
- Leese Carbon Cranks 165mm
- Leese Chainrings
- XCadey Spider PM
- Light Bicycle Airia 65mm
- GP5k 30c (front) and 32c (rear)
- Ride Now TPU tubes
- Galfer Wave 160mm rotors
- Ryet Carbon pedals
- Selle San Marco shortfit 130 carbon fx
-
size 47 basic matt black Ceramic coated spray.
bar 380/90
straight post + selle italia novus boost superflow carbon seat
stages power meter crank 170mm
105DI2 11-36 rear cassette + KMC black waxed chain + Shimano XT MT800 rotors
Time Xpresso 7 pedals
prime primavera 56 wheels
Goodyear eagle F1 R 30mm + ridenow TPU tubes.
-
Size 47cm color chameleon 02HS ordered around May 20. Got sent photo of my frame on June 29th. I'm assuming shipping will take another 2-3 weeks to land in the USA.
-
beautiful paint job and your production and paint turnaround (5-6 weeks) is probably one of the quickest of late. nice!
and yes, it was 2 weeks to ship for me here on the west coast.
Size 47cm color chameleon 02HS ordered around May 20. Got sent photo of my frame on June 29th. I'm assuming shipping will take another 2-3 weeks to land in the USA.
-
waiting for my frame to finish production and i am trying to decide between a 0mm offset and 15mm offset seat post. does anyone have experience with both and could provide some insights other than KOPS? are there any flex differences, does a 0mm offset make the bike feel more "racey", etc?
-
beautiful paint job and your production and paint turnaround (5-6 weeks) is probably one of the quickest of late. nice!
and yes, it was 2 weeks to ship for me here on the west coast.
Indeed very fast production time was quoted 1.5 months. Sweet, west coast aswell should be seeing my frame in around 2 weeks exciting!
-
Reporting back after about 2.5k km. Besides the storage door, and seat-post slippage, the frame has been perfect.
I got some new storage door (v3?) at Eurobike from LC and installed it yesterday. You will need a metal drill to get the old rivets out, than blind rivet pliers to install it, first one for me to use that kind of tooling! (made a video recording, will put it out as short/insta soon), BUT totally worth it, the new version is so so much better. It "clicks" audible into place, does not fight gravity and is more snug than the old one.
I also got a new version of the seat-post with the grippy area, but hadn't had time to install it, it's also holds in place now with carbon paste + a little more torque.
Also looking forward to the titanium head-unit mount I ordered couple days ago.
-
Finally I got my frameset last week. I'm in the building process, and as a novice, I have two questions to the experts in this forum:
1.- The space between the frame and the base of the handlebar spacers is about 1 mm. Is this OK?
2.- When I put the rear thru-axle with the UDH hanger loose, the thru-axle can be screwed by hand, but when I tighten the UDH mount, the thru-axle can't be screwed by hand. I think that there is a misalignment somewhere. Anyone has experienced this? Is a frame defect or the culprit is the UDH hanger. Any ideas to solve this?
Apart from this, everything was OK.
-
Size 47cm color chameleon 02HS ordered around May 20. Got sent photo of my frame on June 29th. I'm assuming shipping will take another 2-3 weeks to land in the USA.
you might find depending on your size that the seat post won't go down far enough. I think it hits off the join of the seat stays.
-
Finally I got my frameset last week. I'm in the building process, and as a novice, I have two questions to the experts in this forum:
1.- The space between the frame and the base of the handlebar spacers is about 1 mm. Is this OK?
2.- When I put the rear thru-axle with the UDH hanger loose, the thru-axle can be screwed by hand, but when I tighten the UDH mount, the thru-axle can't be screwed by hand. I think that there is a misalignment somewhere. Anyone has experienced this? Is a frame defect or the culprit is the UDH hanger. Any ideas to solve this?
Apart from this, everything was OK.
1/ mine has a gap. If it didn't, the spacer would rub the frame.
2/ try the other UDH
-
i don’t have specific experience with the LC posts but have moved from more setback to zero setback seatposts over the years. primarily it’s to dial in fit. when you move to shorter cranks, which i did years ago (175–> 165, i’m 6’ with 34” inseam) doing triathlons and later also on my road bikes due to hip impingement, the resulting raising of the seat with typical 73deg seat tube angle means the seat ends up further back. i’d end up needing to push my seat as forward as possible on the rails.
so if you currently have your seat mounted in the middle of your current seat post, just get the same type post (set back or zero). or if it’s your first bike, i’d go test ride a friend’s or get a fit to figure that out. or buy both (LC’s prices are so reasonable) you have the option of using either.
both LC posts have the cut out near the top of the post that may theoretically give some comfort, but i doubt it’s much. most of the rear end comfort is probably from the dropped seat stays i imagine
waiting for my frame to finish production and i am trying to decide between a 0mm offset and 15mm offset seat post. does anyone have experience with both and could provide some insights other than KOPS? are there any flex differences, does a 0mm offset make the bike feel more "racey", etc?
-
It also depends on what saddle you’re using. People tend to sit a few cm further back when using T type vs a V type.
- to clarify. You sit in the same place, but a T type saddle will be further forward on the rails.
Or get a bike fit and it removes the experimentation. You might have longer/ shorter femurs which will dictate saddle setback.
-
you might find depending on your size that the seat post won't go down far enough. I think it hits off the join of the seat stays.
Interesting thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I do not run into this issue my height 163cm with 72cm inseam. If I do couldn’t I just chop a bit of the seat post off and move the minimum insert up by the same amount I cut off?
-
any pics of what it is like on the frame?
Road Bike Frame Decal Clear Scratch-Resistant Protector Bicycle Sticker MTB Guard TPU specific Cropped Universal Protective Film
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrRLKN5
-
Interesting thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I do not run into this issue my height 163cm with 72cm inseam. If I do couldn’t I just chop a bit of the seat post off and move the minimum insert up by the same amount I cut off?
Thats what I had done. Same procedure like fork cutting.
-
Interesting thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I do not run into this issue my height 163cm with 72cm inseam. If I do couldn’t I just chop a bit of the seat post off and move the minimum insert up by the same amount I cut off?
yes I took 2 cm off mine. My inseam is a couple of cm longer than yours. I wouldn't cut it straight way though. Ride it first.
-
A short update after 2000km on my bike.
Discovered a little crack in the paint in the right top corner of the storage opening.
LC checked the pictures and said: "Our engineer said that is just a little bit crack on the paint surface, it won't affect the stiffness and strength. Please don't worry about that."
I mean in this area you can not flex the carbon due to the thickness of it, so pushing and squeezing it doesn't do anything.
I also don't hear any difference when tapping it. I'm no carbon expert but will trust LC with this statement.
Still waiting for an answer to the question that this shouldn't be normal in the paint, after 2k and 3/4 year of riding.
And i don't want to complaint about, that the under 1k€ frame has a small crack in the paint (if it's only the paint i guess).
I mean, i ride this bike like a 1.5k€ bike. No paint protection foil or else.
At the end of the day it's a not a 10k€ bike, which i would cry over every small dent/scratch in the paint ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
-
Here are some of my experiences with the bike, as well as the build details and weight.
Size 54 glossy - raw carbon, no storage
Reserve 42/49 wheels (25 mm ID) with DT Swiss 350 hubs.
Red 165 mm cranks.
Force 35/48 chainrings and 10-36 cassette
Force dual sided PM
Older design Rival flattop chain because I cut my Force chain one link too short. Will get another Force chain soon.
Force RD, and Rival FD.
Force E1 Brakes
Pirelli PZERO Race TLR 30 mm tires, tubeless
120 / 380 LC bars
0 setback seatpost - got the -15 in case but definitely don't need it.
LC SD02 Saddle
LC BC205 cages
Lizard Skin 2.5 mm bar tape
SRAM BB
Enduro SS bearings
Ultegra pedals
Weight with 30 mm Pirelli's, LC computer mount, pedals = 7.8 kg calculated with my digital bathroom scale.
First photo - with Michelin Pro5 35 mm tires and Panda Podium / Ahyka Aero bottles.
The Michelins were comfortable and fast rolling, measuring 37 mm on the rims. Seems like plenty of rear clearance and huge fork clearance. These tires are good for light gravel such as the rail trail near my house. The bike itself is not very forgiving, other than the nice riding position and longer wheelbase. My optimal case with these tires is mixed roads where gravel gets where you want to go, rather than choosing this for dedicated long gravel rides.
The Aero bottles seem fast, but they're smaller than the standard large bottles that I'm used to and have a significantly lower flow rate. I wasn't happy with the low flow and installed the LC BC205 cages for standard bottles. These cages were nice enough that I mounted the second set on my gravel bike. After one ride with some rough gravel that included fast downhill sections, they seem secure and quiet.
I had a bike shop cut the steer tube and advised them to cut 4-5 mm below the top. I forgot to pre-grease the bearing areas and when I greased and put the handlebar back on, the stem was just above the top - so back to the shop. They sanded the extra length off without removing the brake cables and retightened everything. Not sure I believe that they cut it properly the first time as they insisted, and that the grease somehow seated the headset stack better / lower. I believe they likely made a mistake.
But this had me thinking that if grease is helpful in properly seating the headset bearings, maybe that is something that folks should look at who are troubleshooting speed wobbles. If for any reason the ungreased headset bearings were hung up on some piece of carbon or resin and slightly misaligned, that might cause some wobble that grease could help settle things in.
With the bars setup from the shop, my first fast group ride wasn't confidence inspiring. On fast downhill with high (~30-40 kph) crosswinds, the bike didn't feel stable, feeling like a speed wobble above about 60 kph. When I got home, I found that the shop didn't properly tighten the compression plug and it pulled up even with the top cap creating 4-5 mm extra space in the headset stack. I suspect that they thought it was self-tightening with the top cap screw. Not sure if this is a thing on other plugs.
Once the plug was tight, everything was a lot more stable. But, another day with higher (40-50 kph) head and crosswinds, I had some instability that I suspected was from the big Michelins and the rim OD difference. It felt like a flutter even at moderate speeds, so I was considering a change to my 30 mm Pirellis. That decision made for me when the next day a pack of razorblades was spread over the road and shoulder near the hardware store while I zoned out riding by. One ruined Michelin later and the Pirellis were going on for sure.
The 30mm's are more stable in the strong head and crosswinds that we're having this year in the UT mountains. comfort with the 30's is good, even on our less than perfect roads, though I'm avoiding longer gravel road rides where I was comfortable on >10k of decent gravel with the 35's.
With about 650km on the bike, I love the fit, narrower 38 mm bars, bar shape, and rear-end comfort. The bike is stiff, fast and comfortable. It's definitely an aero feel - stiff with the deeper tube shapes. The back end seems to be a bit more forgiving than the front, probably due to the dropped and thinner seat stays.
This bike is stable to at least 80 kph. Above that speed I'm still more cautious than many in my Weekly group ride, especially when the downhills seem to have asphalt undulations that I suspect are from the cold winters, plus the wind. But I think I just need to learn to let it run.
It's also very stable on uneven or dirty / gravel littered roads. The week before I got my bike, I was able to demo a Dogma F. It had its positives like feeling quite smooth while remaining eager, and it was an excellent climber, but it was frightful on anything sketchy, and the geometry wasn't the best with the setback seatpost, short stem, long cranks, and odd sizing.
The LC bars have a very comfortable shape. I really enjoy the wide aero center portion with the slight curve and forward cant.
The SD02 saddle is comfortable, though I sort of miss my Selle Italia Boost SLR. I bought an SD01 as well since I wanted to compare, but my recommendation is stick with the SD02. Both saddles seem to have the same shape and the SD02 has more padding, but certainly not soft or overly padded. Didn't try the SD01 and listed it for sale.
I initially had some minor noises, which were all attributed to the seatpost and saddle clamps. My seatpost is the newer one with full grippy tape. Thanks to forum tips, I had pre-greased my seatpost wedge interfaces, and saddle bolts. I had to come back and retighten the wedge bolt to quiet things down, and tighten the saddle clamps tighter than I expected to keep it from tilting on impact, as well as make it quieter. Added some Muckoff carbon paste to a portion of the seatpost and a little on the carbon saddle rails between the clamps.
What's the clearance like at the front derailleur?
-
A short update after 2000km on my bike.
Discovered a little crack in the paint in the right top corner of the storage opening.
LC checked the pictures and said: "Our engineer said that is just a little bit crack on the paint surface, it won't affect the stiffness and strength. Please don't worry about that."
I mean in this area you can not flex the carbon due to the thickness of it, so pushing and squeezing it doesn't do anything.
I also don't hear any difference when tapping it. I'm no carbon expert but will trust LC with this statement.
Still waiting for an answer to the question that this shouldn't be normal in the paint, after 2k and 3/4 year of riding.
And i don't want to complaint about, that the under 1k€ frame has a small crack in the paint (if it's only the paint i guess).
I mean, i ride this bike like a 1.5k€ bike. No paint protection foil or else.
At the end of the day it's a not a 10k€ bike, which i would cry over every small dent/scratch in the paint ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I noticed a similar mark on the exact same spot yesterday. I'm not too fuzzed about it, if it says like this, but it is remarkable that this type of crack appears more often. Ive done 2200km on the bike since half of april
-
Same. I ordered a week earlier than you but had top tube bag mounts included which added a week. Looking forward to finally getting the frameset.
Is that the British racing green or something else ? Looks too blue and bright.
-
8.5mm from a 30mm measured tire and the front derailleur
What's the clearance like at the front derailleur?
-
bike finally built up!
size 56, 400-90 bar-stem, zero offset seatpost
ferrari red to carbon clear coat fade, LC logo as carbon clear coat on head tube
light carbon 53db wheelset 50mm deep, 23mm int diameter, sapim cxray spokes, specialized sworks turbo 30c tires (31.5 wam) w/ridenow tpu tubes
dura ace 9270 groupset w/165mm 52-36 cranks, 160/140 rotors, 11-34 cassette, waxed chain, di2 top button "boosters"
cema ceramic t47 bottom bracket, meroca 3d printed carbon rail saddle 155
titanium out-front mount w/gopro mount (for cateye amp500 light), fizik bar tape, look keo pedals (to be replaced with favero assioma pro RL2)
specialized rib cage (non-carbon) bottle cages, downtube storage bag w/2 tpu tubes, co2, tire lever, $20, di2 charge adapter, usbc-usbc cable, spare c1632 battery)
weight: 7.6kg (w/bottle cages, computer mount, pedals, not including downtube storage)
hope to take it for a ride later this week!
-
wow very beautifull
-
Just wondered if anyone has built one of these up and uses a regular bike box Alan to transport ?
I plan to do this, just wondered how complicated it is with the integrated handle bar?
-
NBD morning ride report (30mi/50k, 4000ft/1200m climbing):
bike rides great! it's about 1lb heavier than my old rim brake bike (30mm depth carbon wheels/dura ace mechanical rim vs 50mm depth on the LCR/dura ace di2 disc), so i can't say it flies up climbs, but it climbs fine and did seem to accelerate and build more speed on downhills and flats compared to before.
no wobbles. tracks straight. easy enough to ride hands free. handling is decent, meaning quick, despite the slacker HTA 72.5 compared to my old bike 73.5. did a few twisty descents and while i had to maybe lean a little harder, it was definitely reasonable and not "slow."
no creaks. no rattles (i did tuck the in frame storage zipper pull when i stowed it).
i had to slide the seat a little further back vs leaving it in the middle atop the zero offset post, as the steeper STA 73.5 (compared to 73 on my old bike) meant the seat was just a bit more forward than i expected. i did re-check and snugged up the seat bolts a little more after the ride, so definitely something to check after a few miles into installing a new seat. no problem accessing the seat or seat post bolts btw with L-bend allen wrenches, for those wondering. some folks were complaining about accessing the bolts, but with the right tools it's fine. definitely a great investment if you don't already have a set: https://a.co/d/03lUakvE
lots of climbing so plenty of descents to bed the brake pads. very slight front brake rub which i fixed post-ride re-aligning the calipers using one of those shims that slide over the rotor to push and keep the calipers back. worked liked a charm.
slightly more comfortable rear bump compliance and about the same up front compared to my 2015 parlee altum rim brake (LCR on 30mm measured tires @60psi front/62psi rear vs the parlee 26mm measured tires @65psi/67psi). will try 700x32 after wearing through this set of 700x30.
re: the hbr17 handlebar...plenty stiff in the 400-90 configuration. no "give" i could feel. the tops are comfortable, but i may need to double wrap the drops because i like a girthier grip in (could be i selected a thinner fizik bar tape than the tape on my other bike). short drop of the bars means getting in the drops was easy and comfortable. probably could go down to no spacers or just 5mm (from 10mm) under the stem, but happy with the 10mm for now for comfort on longer rides. the little cap above the top of the headset and the slight rise in the bars add a bit of height.
the out-front computer mount does stick out further and is angled flatter than ideal... 1cm closer and it would still fit a large computer fine. angled slightly upwards would be better visibility of the screen. no adjustment possible. looks sick though.
hoping to do a longer ride this weekend!
-
8.5mm from a 30mm measured tire and the front derailleur
Thanks for checking! But I wanted to know the clearance for sram 2x. I like your bike!
-
speaking of tightening seat bolts, it's nice a sheet with torque specs was included with the LCR018. i didn't get one with any of my other bikes i bought new (litespeed, felt, specialized) although they probably could be found online in a pdf... but still i think it is nice for light carbon to include it in the box.
-
speaking of tightening seat bolts, it's nice a sheet with torque specs was included with the LCR018. i didn't get one with any of my other bikes i bought new (litespeed, felt, specialized) although they probably could be found online in a pdf... but still i think it is nice for light carbon to include it in the box.
With Specialized it is available online as an .pdf.
-
A short update after 2000km on my bike.
Discovered a little crack in the paint in the right top corner of the storage opening.
LC checked the pictures and said: "Our engineer said that is just a little bit crack on the paint surface, it won't affect the stiffness and strength. Please don't worry about that."
I mean in this area you can not flex the carbon due to the thickness of it, so pushing and squeezing it doesn't do anything.
I also don't hear any difference when tapping it. I'm no carbon expert but will trust LC with this statement.
Still waiting for an answer to the question that this shouldn't be normal in the paint, after 2k and 3/4 year of riding.
And i don't want to complaint about, that the under 1k€ frame has a small crack in the paint (if it's only the paint i guess).
I mean, i ride this bike like a 1.5k€ bike. No paint protection foil or else.
At the end of the day it's a not a 10k€ bike, which i would cry over every small dent/scratch in the paint ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I noticed a similar mark on the exact same spot yesterday. I'm not too fuzzed about it, if it says like this, but it is remarkable that this type of crack appears more often. Ive done 2200km on the bike since half of april
When you open the storage compartment door, you have to pull it upwards to remove it. When you do so, the door levers against the spot in question. I suspect this is the source of the cracks. I try to be as gentle as I can when removing the door.
-
When you open the storage compartment door, you have to pull it upwards to remove it. When you do so, the door levers against the spot in question. I suspect this is the source of the cracks. I try to be as gentle as I can when removing the door.
Yeah, it also depends on the bottle cage you use.
I twist mine out sideways to avoid the contact
-
speaking of tightening seat bolts, it's nice a sheet with torque specs was included with the LCR018. i didn't get one with any of my other bikes i bought new (litespeed, felt, specialized) although they probably could be found online in a pdf... but still i think it is nice for light carbon to include it in the box.
Don't you think tightening the top cap to 6 Nm is too much? Based on my experience, it seems like too much to me. How much torque do you guys use when tightening it?
-
When you open the storage compartment door, you have to pull it upwards to remove it. When you do so, the door levers against the spot in question. I suspect this is the source of the cracks. I try to be as gentle as I can when removing the door.
Yeah, it also depends on the bottle cage you use.
I twist mine out sideways to avoid the contact
Good point, i will check it.
-
Don't you think tightening the top cap to 6 Nm is too much? Based on my experience, it seems like too much to me. How much torque do you guys use when tightening it?
i've done much more than that. The top cap is unique, in that you can technically loosen it after you've tightened the stem bolts so it's under tension for mere minutes. I've done 12 nm on the compression plug (only ever do that if the steerer / plug is pushing against the stem, obviously), then tighten the column like an animal by tightening the top cap, tighten the stem bolts, and loosen the top cap. Once you understand how the steerer column works (took me a while), it works. At least it makes sense in my head. But as someone pointed out recently, i have brain rot.
Edit: obviously, this implies bearings working freely. we're trying to get the bike to work, not the opposite.
-
was watching the factory interview/tour of lightcarbon on youtube...(super interesting and cool to see their design approach and QA process, etc). it's interesting to note they purposely target sub $1000 framesets for their own brand, feeling that is a reasonable price and profit margin, going for 80-90% of the performance of big brand's top bikes at 40-50% of the price. it's funny to hear them say charging over $1000 is just gouging. they seem super down to earth....
i'm not a bike business expert and clearly they are doing well (maybe too much demand considering the lead times), but instead of so many variations & models and all at the same lower price level, maybe lightcarbon could settle on a few designs, but have a standard version LCR018 $950 w/paint, but also offer a LCR018 Pro that's 200-300gm lighter for $1250-$1350, similar to the sworks version that specialized and other brands do for their high end models. basically that let's LC edge towards 95-100% of the big brands in terms of performance/weight, but still significantly less expensive than the name brands. that would offer bigger profit margins per bike for only slightly more labor and fancier carbon costs. just a thought.
at 1100gms the frame is on the heavier side for a road bike (maybe because it's build sturdy enough to be a gravel bike?) a 900gm version i think could easily be built up as a 7kg bike (1100gm carbon spoke wheelset, carbon cranks, etc) and offer the lightweight and aero combo and give those big brand high end bikes a real run for their money.
-
was watching the factory interview/tour of lightcarbon on youtube...(super interesting and cool to see their design approach and QA process, etc). it's interesting to note they purposely target sub $1000 framesets for their own brand, feeling that is a reasonable price and profit margin, going for 80-90% of the performance of big brand's top bikes at 40-50% of the price. it's funny to hear them say charging over $1000 is just gouging. they seem super down to earth....
i'm not a bike business expert and clearly they are doing well (maybe too much demand considering the lead times), but instead of so many variations & models and all at the same lower price level, maybe lightcarbon could settle on a few designs, but have a standard version LCR018 $950 w/paint, but also offer a LCR018 Pro that's 200-300gm lighter for $1250-$1350, similar to the sworks version that specialized and other brands do for their high end models. basically that let's LC edge towards 95-100% of the big brands in terms of performance/weight, but still significantly less expensive than the name brands. that would offer bigger profit margins per bike for only slightly more labor and fancier carbon costs. just a thought.
at 1100gms the frame is on the heavier side for a road bike (maybe because it's build sturdy enough to be a gravel bike?) a 900gm version i think could easily be built up as a 7kg bike (1100gm carbon spoke wheelset, carbon cranks, etc) and offer the lightweight and aero combo and give those big brand high end bikes a real run for their money.
Until you learn that 4-6 watts is enough to outweigh 1kg of weight up to a 10% incline. Dropping 200g from a frame is effectively meaningless in real terms.
Most people carry a massive multi tool where they could go slimline and save similar weight.
I’m an absolute weight weenie, but efficiency will kill weight for the majority of bike builds, for the majority of people.
-
absolutely agree with you.
hitting the gym and putting out more watts >> 1-2lbs on the bike. it's why i wasn't willing to pay for a carbon spoked wheelset, carbon crankset or a SL9 :-)
but it doesn't stop most of us of wishing/wanting the bike to dance under us when we accelerate or start a climb. i was bringing the lighter frame option up just as a business opportunity for the hardworking folks at LC.
Until you learn that 4-6 watts is enough to outweigh 1kg of weight up to a 10% incline. Dropping 200g from a frame is effectively meaningless in real terms.
Most people carry a massive multi tool where they could go slimline and save similar weight.
I’m an absolute weight weenie, but efficiency will kill weight for the majority of bike builds, for the majority of people.
-
Pretty sure there’s been a few builds that have came in close to the 7kg mark.
It certainly doesn’t feel like a heavy bike to ride, if anything it’s one of the more enjoyable frames I’ve ridden in the past few years.
I was set to preorder an LCR020, but I’m getting on so well with the 018 that I just can’t justify the spend…this year anyway.
5000km in and it’s honestly an amazing frameset.
I’ve just ordered a set of Peters new 58mm aero wheels and a cheap carbon crank from AliExpress, which will give the bike even more options and keep me tinkering.
-
Pretty sure there’s been a few builds that have came in close to the 7kg mark.
It certainly doesn’t feel like a heavy bike to ride, if anything it’s one of the more enjoyable frames I’ve ridden in the past few years.
Mine came in at just under 7.1kg with 65mm LB Airias and leese carbon cranks in a 52. These were the parts I had. I’m sure if someone was so inclined they could get it under 7 with not a lot of effort. As has already been pointed out, not really worth the bother ;)
-
With pedals, cages and outfront/varia mount, I was around 7.4kg (TPU tubes). Depending on what you want, sub 7 is doable with trade offs. Size 50 with storage door. I haven't weight my bike recently since making some changes.
58mm wheels are 1250g, -250g with lighter wheels
Dura Ace over ultegra
No internal storage
= sub 7 for my build
More weight shedding could come from
moving from 32mm tires to 28mm would shed weight
Lighter saddle
chop unneeded seatpost
Ti bolts
light weight rotors
Remove cables for hardwiring shifter
remove sprint shifters
went carbon finish over paint
pedals - 175g (if you go by weight w/o pedals)
At the end of the day, I have more KG than the bike has grams that could be lost. Or packing more water than I need, the tools in my storage, etc all add weight at the end of the day. Return on investment for my needs, what I paid/built IMO is the sweet spot. I could build sub 7 for sure but for that cost, I would rather have the LCR018 and order the LCR020 when it comes out.
-
great ride today... for those familiar with LA/socal, we went up angeles crest (hwy2) to the mount wilson observatory. 45mi, 5600ft climbing (72km/1700m).
solid, no creaks. after the last ride, even though it was rattle free, since i had it open to add an allen toolset to the storage bag, i wrapped some foam around the hydraulic hose that runs down, in the upper downtube area, above where the downtube storage bag sits, just to prevent any potential rattles. the storage bag pins it down well in the lower part of the downtube so i didn't bother putting foam there... plus foam there would take up space that i want for the contents of the bag.
the biggest revelation is how well and fast the bike descends! it's a rocket!
there's 3 main descents coming off mount wilson. the 1st is the shorter drive down from the observatory to angeles crest which i stayed at the back just getting a feel for the bike. the 2nd from redbox (base of mount wilson) to clear creek, i set a 30sec PR, average speed increasing from 38mph to 41mph (61kph to 66kph) not pedaling 1 stroke... passed my buddies without even trying. all from the bike's fit, more aero frame, wheels, ceramic bearings who knows. i consistently saw speeds 60+ kph which was not the case in the past and only missed PRing the longest 3rd segment down angeles crest because i got stuck behind some cars and motorcycles.
not only is the bike fast, but it's also stable. despite a gusts of wind and the 50mm depth wheels, i felt in control throughout. the shallower head tube angle and larger BB drop (76 vs 70 on my old bike) gives a more planted and assured ride compared to my old bike. going from 27mm measured to 31mm (the 30mm have stretched out to 31 in the last week) wide tires, running 58psi front/ 60psi rear, really smoothed the little bumps so they didn't throw me off lines as much as before. the bike's bars made staying in the drops easy, also helped.
climbing is fine. again because it's about 0.5 kg heavier than my rim brake bike i'm not flying up climbs significantly faster, but the bike's not holding me back. power out of the saddle is great and no flex in the bottom bracket or head tube. for those worried about frame flex due to having a downtube storage compartment vs not, it's not a factor for me (180lbs/82kg recreational/enthusiast dude). PR'd and am now top 8 all-time on a short uphill segment up to clear creek (approx 550watts) because i carried so much speed into the climb and when i started putting down the power, it went directly into the wheels. the m40 carbon fiber is well placed.
loving the bike so far. and definitely a ton of compliments and questions from other riders out there today.
-
Looks like my frame (which was ordered back in 5th May) is now ready but my handlebar (380*100) is now out of stock and wont be ready until mid august.
Anyone had to wait for there handlebars to come back in stock and were they good with their estimated time or could possibly be even earlier?
I have an event on the end of august that I was hoping to use this bike on.
-
From what I understand from Jim is that my handlebar size is in stock (360/100). But my frame (size 54) has a delay because a week ago it was around 25 days to get it in stock, but when I asked for an update today he told me it is 30 days from now. He is blaming DJI mtb frames because of that they seem to have a massive nationwide shortage of latex innermolds since last week.. I hope I don’t get any further delays as I was hoping to ride this bike this summer :-\
-
i've done much more than that. The top cap is unique, in that you can technically loosen it after you've tightened the stem bolts so it's under tension for mere minutes. I've done 12 nm on the compression plug (only ever do that if the steerer / plug is pushing against the stem, obviously), then tighten the column like an animal by tightening the top cap, tighten the stem bolts, and loosen the top cap. Once you understand how the steerer column works (took me a while), it works. At least it makes sense in my head. But as someone pointed out recently, i have brain rot.
Tightening the top cap compresses the bearings. After tightening it to 6 Nm, does the handlebar turn freely? I'm worried that the bearings might be compressed too tightly. Of course I know how the steering column compression works. Maybe it's some kind of mechanism I'm not yet familiar with? maybe there's a reason for it, I'll just follow the instructions.
-
great ride today... for those familiar with LA/socal, we went up angeles crest (hwy2) to the mount wilson observatory. 45mi, 5600ft climbing (72km/1700m).
solid, no creaks. after the last ride, even though it was rattle free, since i had it open to add an allen toolset to the storage bag, i wrapped some foam around the hydraulic hose that runs down, in the upper downtube area, above where the downtube storage bag sits, just to prevent any potential rattles. the storage bag pins it down well in the lower part of the downtube so i didn't bother putting foam there... plus foam there would take up space that i want for the contents of the bag.
the biggest revelation is how well and fast the bike descends! it's a rocket!
there's 3 main descents coming off mount wilson. the 1st is the shorter drive down from the observatory to angeles crest which i stayed at the back just getting a feel for the bike. the 2nd from redbox (base of mount wilson) to clear creek, i set a 30sec PR, average speed increasing from 38mph to 41mph (61kph to 66kph) not pedaling 1 stroke... passed my buddies without even trying. all from the bike's fit, more aero frame, wheels, ceramic bearings who knows. i consistently saw speeds 60+ kph which was not the case in the past and only missed PRing the longest 3rd segment down angeles crest because i got stuck behind some cars and motorcycles.
not only is the bike fast, but it's also stable. despite a gusts of wind and the 50mm depth wheels, i felt in control throughout. the shallower head tube angle and larger BB drop (76 vs 70 on my old bike) gives a more planted and assured ride compared to my old bike. going from 27mm measured to 31mm (the 30mm have stretched out to 31 in the last week) wide tires, running 58psi front/ 60psi rear, really smoothed the little bumps so they didn't throw me off lines as much as before. the bike's bars made staying in the drops easy, also helped.
climbing is fine. again because it's about 0.5 kg heavier than my rim brake bike i'm not flying up climbs significantly faster, but the bike's not holding me back. power out of the saddle is great and no flex in the bottom bracket or head tube. for those worried about frame flex due to having a downtube storage compartment vs not, it's not a factor for me (180lbs/82kg recreational/enthusiast dude). PR'd and am now top 8 all-time on a short uphill segment up to clear creek (approx 550watts) because i carried so much speed into the climb and when i started putting down the power, it went directly into the wheels. the m40 carbon fiber is well placed.
loving the bike so far. and definitely a ton of compliments and questions from other riders out there today.
Great looking bike! Glad to hear it descends well, I’m more of a mountain biker and am looking for something to replace my 2009 Giant TCR, I definitely want something fast and composed on the downhills as it’s my favorite part of the ride. Also I’m in Norcal and was wondering if you had to pay any tariffs?
-
Hi all,
So after sifting through the thread, I’ve seen a couple of posts about the headset bearings and not using the stock ones. Is that still the general consensus?
-
A heads up for any bike tourers/bikepackers/amateur tt riders/etc. regarding clip on aerobars and this frame.
A question that comes up quite semi-regularly, that often doesn't have any great answers, is: how do I attach clip on aero bars to a frame that comes delivered with fully integrated cables and a carbon aero handlebar. There are hack solutions such as mounting a fred bar or equivalent on your steerer tube which you then mount your bars too. But then you are also adding additional stress, quite high up, on your steerer tube which it may or may not be able to handle (and if your tube is cut you're obviously cooked). There's also AliEx mounting "clip ons" specifically for aero handlebars but those look lethal to me, in addition to the fact that I'd rather not clamp carbon where it is not designed to be clamped.
I have found only one good solution to this problem. You can order this frame with the LCR017S-D separate bar and stem combo where you instead route the cables semi-internally (they enter the headset under/at the stem - if you look at the frame pictures it will be obvious). This will allow you to run any 31.8 handlebar you'd like while still routing the cables mostly internally.
This should also work for their new racing gravel bike as well as the new aero frame road frame.
Hopefully this is useful to someone ;D
-
Hi all,
So after sifting through the thread, I’ve seen a couple of posts about the headset bearings and not using the stock ones. Is that still the general consensus?
It is really up to you. Many use the provided bearings and I haven't heard any real complaints. I went with enduro bearings, like many others, as a peace of mind upgrade. The price to swap out to enduro bearings now when building the bike is less than the cost to do it in the future. A quality SS bearing, like enduro, is likely going to perform better and last longer than the provided bearings.
-
Great looking bike! Glad to hear it descends well, I’m more of a mountain biker and am looking for something to replace my 2009 Giant TCR, I definitely want something fast and composed on the downhills as it’s my favorite part of the ride. Also I’m in Norcal and was wondering if you had to pay any tariffs?
thanks! it will definitely be faster than your TCR. you'll love the upgrade! room for wider tires is a big factor of why i wanted a new bike... all the extra stuff like disc brakes, aero frame, electronic shifting, downtube storage, etc have been icing. i think if you put on 32+mm width tires, you'll be able to really rail some descents that might feel sketchy on the TCR.
no tariffs, at least specified. shipping was $335 to LA, so not sure if that is where any tariffs were included or it's built into the base price of the frame, which i've heard has gone up slightly from when they first started selling the LCR018. another $86 was for PayPal 4.5%. my total was $1970 which included the painted frame, wheelset, bottle cages, titanium out-front mount, extra derailleur hanger, extra downtube storage bag, ceramic bottom bracket, paypal and shipping.
-
Hi all,
So after sifting through the thread, I’ve seen a couple of posts about the headset bearings and not using the stock ones. Is that still the general consensus?
i did order the enduro bearings as others have, but made the mistake of only ordering 1! for some stupid reason, thought it was for a pair. kind of pricey now i think about it, compared to the cost of the whole frame, etc. stock bearings are probably fine if you ride and live in a dry conditions.
in any case, so now i have one enduro (i think we put it in the lower bearing area towards the fork) and one stock bearing in the upper bearing seat near the stem, with a spare stock bearing in the parts bin. in general, if it's not too cost prohibitive, i prefer to put in quality parts up front, that don't require touching or worrying about...
-
Light carbon BB squeak
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=u90AxrSVuPw&pp=0gcJCZQLAYcqIYzv
-
Has anyone built up with SRAM aero chainring and XPLR cassette (1x13)? That's my plan, Force. SRAM aero crankset only available in non-wide, but as the chainstay length is 415mm this should be fine? (Frame spec denotes 54T as max chainring, I want to go with 50T).
-
Has anyone built up with SRAM aero chainring and XPLR cassette (1x13)? That's my plan, Force. SRAM aero crankset only available in non-wide, but as the chainstay length is 415mm this should be fine? (Frame spec denotes 54T as max chainring, I want to go with 50T).
Yes, it’s fine. No need for a wide bb or crank arms.
-
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?
-
I have just ordered a set of the XMCS 58mm wheels that Peter had aero tested at Silverstone, they have a 26mm inner width. Really looking forward to getting them onto the LCR018-D as it should be quite the combination. Will post photos and thoughts once they arrive and I get some decent mileage onto them.
-
really depends on the width of tires you want to run. if you’re ok with 28-32mm wide tires then 23mm inner width is probably ok. if you want to run 32-35+ then 25+mm internal is better for the tire and the external rim to match up better aero wise.
i got LC’s own wheels, 23mm wide internal, to run 30-32mm width tires. at the discounted $469 price when bought with the frame, for the specs (1350gm, sapim spokes, 50mm depth) it seemed like a decent deal. definitely would go wider if i was thinking aero gravel setup with 35+ tires
have fun! so many wheel manufacturers now. i was planning to get some elite or farsports wheels when i was initially planning the build for my bike, budgeting $800-1000 for wheels. but i have to say the LC wheelset is getting the job done at half the price. can’t imagine spending $1500-2000 on a western brand
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?
-
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?
There is no definitive recipe, it depends what tyre size you want to use - hooked - hookless - your weight - the road conditions - blah blah blah.
Everyone with have a different opinion, and everyone is right or wrong depending your point of view.
I use 32mm inner 40mm outer hooked
-
This is the issue I find is that I don't have a great deal of funds to splash on components to try and no one can recommend a good "average" so I end up never buying anything. It's a nightmare :P Choice paralysis is biting me hard
I'd probably go 32mm, hooked, I'm 92kg (max), roads are full of potholes here in my country but I'd rarely go on gravel.
-
This is the issue I find is that I don't have a great deal of funds to splash on components to try and no one can recommend a good "average" so I end up never buying anything. It's a nightmare :P
I'd probably go 32mm, hooked, I'm 92kg (max), roads are full of potholes here in my country but I'd rarely go on gravel
There is no good average.
If you’re 92kg and the roads are crap why limit yourself to a 32mm tyre? You’ll just need to use higher pressures so the ride will be less plush.
A 25mm int hooked would be my absolute minimum for 32-35mm tyres
-
This is the issue I find is that I don't have a great deal of funds to splash on components to try and no one can recommend a good "average" so I end up never buying anything. It's a nightmare :P Choice paralysis is biting me hard
I'd probably go 32mm, hooked, I'm 92kg (max), roads are full of potholes here in my country but I'd rarely go on gravel.
if you're buying an 18D, at this weight, with these roads, 1000% go straight to the max tyre clearance. The GP5000 in 35C from Pogi at Roubaix this year measured 39 or 40mm, from memory, and this frame clears 38C, so 40mm measured wont be an issue. I'd solve for that right away, solving for 32mm makes absolutely no sense. I'm over 80kg, ride on smooth asphalt, my rear measures 34mm (32C), and i will never, ever go smaller again, but my next rig will need to clear that 35C.
-
Thanks. How do we like the LC wheelsets as it seems I could get some of their gravel wheels and go ahead with the largest size i can fit. They do a 32mm inner but I guess that would be too big. Otherwise the 26mm at 45mm depth could be the way to go?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
-
Thanks. How do we like the LC wheelsets as it seems I could get some of their gravel wheels and go ahead with the largest size i can fit. They do a 32mm inner but I guess that would be too big. Otherwise the 26mm at 45mm depth could be the way to go?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
As I said above, I use a 32internal but wouldn’t necessarily recommend it to someone with no experience . Read up on wheels - ETRTO etc and make your own choices.
As a beginner I’d probably recommend something towards the 27-29 mm range with hooks to be on the safe side.
-
Ok, so I need some help with a 1x13 setup on my LCR018 frame... :-\
Context: I was using a SRAM 1x12 cassette without any problems with a Wheeltop GeX groupset. A short while ago, I decided to upgrade to 1x13, so, taking advantage of the GeX ability to adapt to different cassettes, I got a SRAM Rival XPLR 10-46 13 speed cassette and compatible flattop chain. Changed the cassette on the wheelset, adjusted derailleur limiting screws, went to the Wheeltop app, set the derailleur to 13 speeds (instead of the 12 it was on) and started adjusting/reindexing the gears. From the 46 tooth cog to the 11 tooth I have 12 speeds running smoothly, perfetly indexed, but I couldn't get it to shift to the lowest 10 tooth cog. Initialy I though it was just bad adjustment of the lower limiting screw on the derailleur, but after some fidling, I still wouldn't shift the lower, or, it would, but only for a fraction of a second, going up again to the 11 tooth cog. That was when I started to notice that the UDH piece had some scruff marks on it's inner side, facing the cassette. It was then clear to me that the chain was rubbing against the inner face of the UDH, in 2 spots, relative to the axle, on the upper and bottom parts. At first I thought this must be due to some problem with the rear hub/freehub body, but I already tried other 2 rear wheels from different wheelsets (3 in total) and the problem remains. It seemed to me there was simply no space/enough gap between the included UDH and the limit of the cassette for the chain to clear and run on the 10 tooth cog. Has I have an extra regular UDH laying around (not this ultra-light version that LC ships with the frame), I took the original out and tried that one, and it only got worse, as with the normal UDH it seems I have even less gap between the UDH inner face and the cassette, like 1mm less! ???
So, I seems to me it's not a rear hub/freehub problem, nor a UDH problem, so what, is it the frame?!? :-\
I attached some pictures below to show the problem I'm describing.
I guess some of you here are running 1x13 speed cassettes on this frame, so this should be possible for me too!
Please share your thoughts and ideias, I'd appreciate some help!
Many thanks.
-
Context: I was using a SRAM 1x12 cassette without any problems with a Wheeltop GeX groupset. A short while ago, I decided to upgrade to 1x13, so, taking advantage of the GeX ability to adapt to different cassettes.
I wonder if your issue is the groupset and not the frame/hanger? From the Wheeltop FAQ. Got lucky with 12 speed but not so much with 13?
Non-Direct Mount CompatibilityThe WHEELTOP rear derailleur is only compatible with non-direct-mount derailleur hangers. Using a direct-mount hanger could lead to improper alignment and affect performance.
UDH CompatibilityThe WHEELTOP rear derailleur is partially compatible with Universal Derailleur Hangers (UDH). However, its performance may vary depending on the specific bike frame design. Certain frames might require adjustments or may present limitations for optimal performance.
To ensure proper compatibility with your bike frame:
If your bike uses a non-direct-mount derailleur hanger, it should work without issue.
If your bike uses a UDH, please check if the frame design allows smooth operation of the WHEELTOP derailleur. If necessary, adjustments may be required.
If you encounter any compatibility issues or need further assistance, we recommend reaching out to the bike manufacturer or contacting our support team. We are happy to assist you with additional guidance or recommendations to ensure your setup works optimally.
https://wheeltop.com/pages/faq
-
Ok, so I need some help with a 1x13 setup on my LCR018 frame... :-\
Context: I was using a SRAM 1x12 cassette without any problems with a Wheeltop GeX groupset. A short while ago, I decided to upgrade to 1x13, so, taking advantage of the GeX ability to adapt to different cassettes, I got a SRAM Rival XPLR 10-46 13 speed cassette and compatible flattop chain. Changed the cassette on the wheelset, adjusted derailleur limiting screws, went to the Wheeltop app, set the derailleur to 13 speeds (instead of the 12 it was on) and started adjusting/reindexing the gears. From the 46 tooth cog to the 11 tooth I have 12 speeds running smoothly, perfetly indexed, but I couldn't get it to shift to the lowest 10 tooth cog. Initialy I though it was just bad adjustment of the lower limiting screw on the derailleur, but after some fidling, I still wouldn't shift the lower, or, it would, but only for a fraction of a second, going up again to the 11 tooth cog. That was when I started to notice that the UDH piece had some scruff marks on it's inner side, facing the cassette. It was then clear to me that the chain was rubbing against the inner face of the UDH, in 2 spots, relative to the axle, on the upper and bottom parts. At first I thought this must be due to some problem with the rear hub/freehub body, but I already tried other 2 rear wheels from different wheelsets (3 in total) and the problem remains. It seemed to me there was simply no space/enough gap between the included UDH and the limit of the cassette for the chain to clear and run on the 10 tooth cog. Has I have an extra regular UDH laying around (not this ultra-light version that LC ships with the frame), I took the original out and tried that one, and it only got worse, as with the normal UDH it seems I have even less gap between the UDH inner face and the cassette, like 1mm less! ???
So, I seems to me it's not a rear hub/freehub problem, nor a UDH problem, so what, is it the frame?!? :-\
I attached some pictures below to show the problem I'm describing.
I guess some of you here are running 1x13 speed cassettes on this frame, so this should be possible for me too!
Please share your thoughts and ideias, I'd appreciate some help!
Many thanks.
This is nothing to do with the frame and very much a groupset problem. When you get to 13 speed, tolerances are extremely fine and small differences matter.
You should probably start a thread rather than post here. You need advice from users of this system.
It could be chain length / B screw adjustment - that’s there I’d look as it sound similar to when SRAM XPLR users use a chain that’s too short.
-
I wonder if your issue is the groupset and not the frame/hanger? From the Wheeltop FAQ. Got lucky with 12 speed but not so much with 13?
Non-Direct Mount CompatibilityThe WHEELTOP rear derailleur is only compatible with non-direct-mount derailleur hangers. Using a direct-mount hanger could lead to improper alignment and affect performance.
UDH CompatibilityThe WHEELTOP rear derailleur is partially compatible with Universal Derailleur Hangers (UDH). However, its performance may vary depending on the specific bike frame design. Certain frames might require adjustments or may present limitations for optimal performance.
To ensure proper compatibility with your bike frame:
If your bike uses a non-direct-mount derailleur hanger, it should work without issue.
If your bike uses a UDH, please check if the frame design allows smooth operation of the WHEELTOP derailleur. If necessary, adjustments may be required.
If you encounter any compatibility issues or need further assistance, we recommend reaching out to the bike manufacturer or contacting our support team. We are happy to assist you with additional guidance or recommendations to ensure your setup works optimally.
https://wheeltop.com/pages/faq
So this is a known problem with Wheeltop/UDH/13x? My bad, I just assumed that if it clears 12x, it should work in 13x, FML... :(
But thanks for the heads up!
-
So this is a known problem with Wheeltop/UDH/13x? My bad, I just assumed that if it clears 12x, it should work in 13x, FML... :(
But thanks for the heads up!
I am sure there are people doing 13 speed UDH with wheeltop and making it work. I just know the UDH compatibility is a risk with Wheeltop and why I did not choose the groupset for my build. There could be a way, like POTOOOOOOOO said, possibly how the groupset is setup. Worth playing around but at the end of the day, it might just be the groupset and nothing more.
-
Thanks. How do we like the LC wheelsets as it seems I could get some of their gravel wheels and go ahead with the largest size i can fit. They do a 32mm inner but I guess that would be too big. Otherwise the 26mm at 45mm depth could be the way to go?
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
What is the price of this rim?
-
So this is a known problem with Wheeltop/UDH/13x? My bad, I just assumed that if it clears 12x, it should work in 13x, FML... :(
But thanks for the heads up!
Thanks, I may take your advice and open a dedicated topic with this problem, but again, I wanted to know if anyone has this Wheeltop GeX+13x cassete combo working on a LCR018 frame, and this is the LCR018 frame...
Regarding your adjustment comments, those don't seem to be the problem, as I hope you can see from the pictures I attached, the chain can't physically fit the space on the 10 tooth cog without rubbing against the UDH. It's an available width on that lower cog problem, not adjustment of chainlenght or b-screw, it seems to me. Maybe this combo is just not possible, I start to believe...
But then again, if it's indeed a spacing problem with the UDH in 13x speed, it should still happen regardless of the rear derailleur used, right?
Anyone here running 1x13 on this frame?
-
Ok, so I need some help with a 1x13 setup on my LCR018 frame... :-\
Context: I was using a SRAM 1x12 cassette without any problems with a Wheeltop GeX groupset. A short while ago, I decided to upgrade to 1x13, so, taking advantage of the GeX ability to adapt to different cassettes, I got a SRAM Rival XPLR 10-46 13 speed cassette and compatible flattop chain. Changed the cassette on the wheelset, adjusted derailleur limiting screws, went to the Wheeltop app, set the derailleur to 13 speeds (instead of the 12 it was on) and started adjusting/reindexing the gears. From the 46 tooth cog to the 11 tooth I have 12 speeds running smoothly, perfetly indexed, but I couldn't get it to shift to the lowest 10 tooth cog. Initialy I though it was just bad adjustment of the lower limiting screw on the derailleur, but after some fidling, I still wouldn't shift the lower, or, it would, but only for a fraction of a second, going up again to the 11 tooth cog. That was when I started to notice that the UDH piece had some scruff marks on it's inner side, facing the cassette. It was then clear to me that the chain was rubbing against the inner face of the UDH, in 2 spots, relative to the axle, on the upper and bottom parts. At first I thought this must be due to some problem with the rear hub/freehub body, but I already tried other 2 rear wheels from different wheelsets (3 in total) and the problem remains. It seemed to me there was simply no space/enough gap between the included UDH and the limit of the cassette for the chain to clear and run on the 10 tooth cog. Has I have an extra regular UDH laying around (not this ultra-light version that LC ships with the frame), I took the original out and tried that one, and it only got worse, as with the normal UDH it seems I have even less gap between the UDH inner face and the cassette, like 1mm less! ???
So, I seems to me it's not a rear hub/freehub problem, nor a UDH problem, so what, is it the frame?!? :-\
I attached some pictures below to show the problem I'm describing.
I guess some of you here are running 1x13 speed cassettes on this frame, so this should be possible for me too!
Please share your thoughts and ideias, I'd appreciate some help!
Many thanks.
But you use a XDR Freehub? Because a 13s cassette can’t fit on a xd freehub, because the 13th cog will sit too near to the chainstay. Around 1.85mm i guess is the difference.
-
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?
As the reply next to your question, I also use the XMCS 26mm internal wheels on my LCR as seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DaQ0y6LiH-B/ paired with Pirelli P Zero Road 35mm. Think this width makes absolute sense given the LCR's clearance + allroad/comfort characteristics. This combo comes out at exactly 35mm with the wheels 33-35mm external width.
-
mine was really good until I actually bought the frame and wheels and is now patchy.
Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.
Edit: Today I got a reply. "Remove your seapost, take some photos of the anti-slip beads, and the serial number on the bottom of the frame". Not the friendliest but at least a reply (lurking, LC?). After viewing some Youtube videos linked here and following suggestions, I wrapped isolation band around the seatpost. This seems to make it wide enough to not have play anymore. Given the creaking was still there I went for the obvious parts and indeed the bottom bracket was causing it. Given a replacement + the isolated seatpost the bike is now fully functional again and adhering to the desired quality so I will not need the replacement - that is positive! The whole treatment still leaves a bad taste behind...
-
Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.
That is weird, I personally have had nothing but great support from LC (Chloe). From when my frame arrived with chipped paint from the shipping company and asking for a free v3 replacement door. My only "complaint" is the response times can be drawn out because of time zones but I cannot fault them for that. V3 door has not arrived yet, so I cannot comment on how well it works.
Even last week, she was quick to respond when I placed an order for a 0 offset seat post and a new bar.
On a side note, maybe worth trying to solve the seatpost issue as a short term solution. To make sure I had no issues when building my frame, I put a small piece of protective film on the two sides of the post. Just enough to help give it a bit more size. My post slides in and out without issues but clamps tight.
-
But you use a XDR Freehub? Because a 13s cassette can’t fit on a xd freehub, because the 13th cog will sit too near to the chainstay. Around 1.85mm i guess is the difference.
Yes, all 3 rear wheels I tested have XDR freehub body…
-
Thanks for checking! But I wanted to know the clearance for sram 2x. I like your bike!
I'm getting 9.2 mm from the tire to the battery, which seems to be the closest point. The end of my caliper wants to hit the rim, so it's tough to measure several spots accurately. This is on the 30mm Pirelli's.
-
Has anyone found a fitting Frame Bag for the LCR018-D? I've got the 58cm frame and the space of the inside headtube is ~10cm long. Great geometry for me but hard to find a fitting frame bag. My old cyclite frame bag looks ridiculous as there is a empty space of almost 5cm to the attachment strap on the downtube.
-
Tailfin bags are brilliant. Not cheap, but exceptionally well made and have non slip.mounting points and reinforced structure so that the bags hold their shape.
You can print out a template and try different sizes to decide which is best:
https://www.tailfin.cc/product/frame-bags/half-frame-bag/?v=7885444af42e
-
What is the price of this rim?
Sorry, they didn't give me an itemised cost but for a full wheelset I got the following number:
C52DB-RD923-45C-Ray, weight 1380g, price is USD$,577/pair to UK by EMS Express. Ratchet 36T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
C53DB-RD923-45C-Ray, WEIGHT 1332G, price is USD$598/pair to UK by EMS Express, Ratchet 54T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
-
Sorry, they didn't give me an itemised cost but for a full wheelset I got the following number:
C52DB-RD923-45C-Ray, weight 1380g, price is USD$,577/pair to UK by EMS Express. Ratchet 36T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
C53DB-RD923-45C-Ray, WEIGHT 1332G, price is USD$598/pair to UK by EMS Express, Ratchet 54T freehub system, TPI Ceramic Bearings.
Thanks. Has anyone got a set of Light Carbon wheels with DT Swiss hub?
-
Wondering what inner width wheelsets people are pairing with this frame? I can see LC do their own wheelsets but not sure if they are popular or well regarded. I feel like 25mm inner is common now?
running 23 mm with 30mm tyres
-
sorry to hear you had a bad experience. having annoying noise/clicks on what is a new anything is always annoying.
i hope jim or whoever sees this post and can follow-up with your rep and provide some feedback. it could be language/cultural issue (being a bit too direct, without adding the niceties of apologizing for the inconvenience etc) that would smooth things over a bit better. and definitely think it's the right thing for LC to just ship you the improved v3 storage door, since the initial ones clearly were inadequately designed to meet the needs of every day riding.
that being said, i read all the posts prior to my order, and planned to do the 3M tape hack to prevent seatpost slip. it seems to be a common issue for many manufacturers with aero seatposts. i was happy to see my seatpost already had the grip surface. greasing the seatpost clamp pieces (to ensure smooth engagement), carbon paste on the post, and an extra 1-2nm of tightening seems to be working for me without any additional tape for now.
i had terrible saddle slip on my gravel bike using litespeed's titanium seatpost that uses and enve saddle rail clamp mechanism. that thing is horrible. slip city without torquing way above spec and needing to re-tighten after every ride. was happy when i moved on to a lighter and more comfortable ergon suspension post that held the saddle without crazy efforts.
hope you're enjoying the bike now that your issues are resolved.
Same. In contrast to other replies here, they first wanted to fully charge me for the upgraded storage lid and seatpost plus shipping to now ignoring my request for a seatpost warranty upgrade consideration. Even with 10Nm torque and carbon paste it slips to the point where it creaks under load. Really hope we can still sort this out together.
Edit: Today I got a reply. "Remove your seapost, take some photos of the anti-slip beads, and the serial number on the bottom of the frame". Not the friendliest but at least a reply (lurking, LC?). After viewing some Youtube videos linked here and following suggestions, I wrapped isolation band around the seatpost. This seems to make it wide enough to not have play anymore. Given the creaking was still there I went for the obvious parts and indeed the bottom bracket was causing it. Given a replacement + the isolated seatpost the bike is now fully functional again and adhering to the desired quality so I will not need the replacement - that is positive! The whole treatment still leaves a bad taste behind...
-
Hey everyone,
I wrote a while back about having some issues with my frame, a crack on the top tube (likely from shipping) that I unfortunately only noticed during my first ride after finishing the build.
I'm happy to give a quick update: I contacted Light Carbon, and on June 11th, they confirmed they will provide a free replacement frame (excluding handlebar, fork, and seat post), complete with the custom paint job. They are also covering all shipping costs. Massive props to their customer service for handling it so well.
A bit off topic, but while waiting for the new frame to arrive, I’m looking for a new wheelset to pair with it. I want to keep the build looking clean, so I'll be opting for a matte UD finish with no decals.
I’ve been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html (http://serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html).
To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.
Do you think this configuration makes sense for an aero frame, or should I consider other alternatives in the sub 700€ price bracket? What wheels are you guys running on your builds, and are you happy with them?
Serenade seems to have a good price performance ratio, but I am open to other suggestions.
-
I’ve been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html (http://serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html).
To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.
If you want something aero, and will use 30mm tyres then these are far too narrow.
If you want to use gravel tyres then they’ll probably not be aero on any rims so I’d concentrate your efforts towards the 30mm road setting.
There are absolutely tones of options for 25-26 internal wheels with wider external measurements which would be a much better fit and also offer some aero befit
-
Hey everyone,
I wrote a while back about having some issues with my frame, a crack on the top tube (likely from shipping) that I unfortunately only noticed during my first ride after finishing the build.
I'm happy to give a quick update: I contacted Light Carbon, and on June 11th, they confirmed they will provide a free replacement frame (excluding handlebar, fork, and seat post), complete with the custom paint job. They are also covering all shipping costs. Massive props to their customer service for handling it so well.
A bit off topic, but while waiting for the new frame to arrive, I’m looking for a new wheelset to pair with it. I want to keep the build looking clean, so I'll be opting for a matte UD finish with no decals.
I’ve been eyeing a 45mm front / 60mm rear staggered setup from Serenade: serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html (http://serenadebikes.net/23mm-internal-high-performance-aero-bike-wheels-build-with-carbon-fiber-spokes-p6704522.html).
To give you some context on how I will use them, I will mostly be running 30mm road tires for summer, but the wheels should also allow for 35-38mm gravel tires. I am looking for a setup that is reasonably light and snappy without sacrificing flat-road aero, especially since I mostly ride flat roads and only ride hills on vacations.
Do you think this configuration makes sense for an aero frame, or should I consider other alternatives in the sub 700€ price bracket? What wheels are you guys running on your builds, and are you happy with them?
Serenade seems to have a good price performance ratio, but I am open to other suggestions.
In regards to staggered setup, if you look what the established brands offer, it is the other way round with higher rim in the front as the front hits the air first. I have 45 Serenade wheels, 50 Ican and 60 Scribe - I enjoy the Serenade wheels the most. I often ride in windy conditions and they are the least impacted by crosswinds and are by far the lichtest which gives a snappy feeling and is loads of fun for short power bursts riding rolling hills.
-
In regards to staggered setup, if you look what the established brands offer, it is the other way round with higher rim in the front as the front hits the air first. I have 45 Serenade wheels, 50 Ican and 60 Scribe - I enjoy the Serenade wheels the most. I often ride in windy conditions and they are the least impacted by crosswinds and are by far the lichtest which gives a snappy feeling and is loads of fun for short power bursts riding rolling hills.
Crosswind stability/ instability is largely driven by how the rim and tyre match. Not just the wheel in isolation.
Sometimes people get lucky but generally this is an important area that overlooked by people just chasing the “look”of deep wheels and ignoring the actual “aero” behind it.
-
If you want something aero, and will use 30mm tyres then these are far too narrow.
If you want to use gravel tyres then they’ll probably not be aero on any rims so I’d concentrate your efforts towards the 30mm road setting.
There are absolutely tones of options for 25-26 internal wheels with wider external measurements which would be a much better fit and also offer some aero befit
Is it far too narrow?
I read of the 105% rule, which states that the external rim should be at least 105% of the tire width.
And the wheels I mentioned have an external width of 34mm, which is more than 105% of 30 mm.
Are there no downsides at all to have wider rims?
In regards to staggered setup, if you look what the established brands offer, it is the other way round with higher rim in the front as the front hits the air first. I have 45 Serenade wheels, 50 Ican and 60 Scribe - I enjoy the Serenade wheels the most. I often ride in windy conditions and they are the least impacted by crosswinds and are by far the lichtest which gives a snappy feeling and is loads of fun for short power bursts riding rolling hills.
Yes I've also heard that from an aerodynamic standpoint, deeper front wheels make more sense.
But I would have tought, that a shallower front wheel would reduce the impact from cross winds.
Which Serenade model do you have?
-
Is it far too narrow?
I read of the 105% rule, which states that the external rim should be at least 105% of the tire width.
And the wheels I mentioned have an external width of 34mm, which is more than 105% of 30 mm.
Are there no downsides at all to have wider rims?
Yes I've also heard that from an aerodynamic standpoint, deeper front wheels make more sense.
But I would have tought, that a shallower front wheel would reduce the impact from cross winds.
Which Serenade model do you have?
105, yes, its a thing, but will you only ever stick with one brand of 30mm tyres ? They all measure differently. Will you eventually go to 32mm or bigger?
All of a sudden you’re outside of 105 and you could just future proof the choice now.
And no, there really isn’t a down side to going wider - but hey keep reading whatever your reading and come to your own conclusion
-
I think the whole 105 thing has been a bit debunked by now by several aero experts such as Swiss Side.
Unless you are competing at the highest level it hardly has a meaningful impact on your experience.
In regards to my comment on crosswind stability - my example is on my Cannondale SystemSix. Given the frame profile also has quite an impact on the stability in strong gusts. Same wheels on my steel frame obviously will behave more calmly, but the SystemSix is a lot more manageable with the lower Serenade wheels in strpng winds and could I only own one wheelset I'd go for a light allroind set rather than chase every bit of aero. Even if it perhaps ultimately is not fastser the quick pickup and snappy feeling is more "fun" than the higher profile.
I have the wavy rim wheels with carbon spokes - 25ID / 34 OD. Very nice wheels actually. Currently running 28mm tyres which stretch nicely to a bit above 30 mm.
-
That’s why I said 105 is a thing. It’s been debunked but tyre rim integration has a huge effect on crosswind stability and air detachment.It just happens that’s also related to rim width and tyre width.
Tyres wider than rims effectively cancel out much of point of deep rims. If you’re going to have wide tyres without wide rims it’s kinda pointless really. You might as well stick with shallow wheels, but deep wheels can also be extremely docile in strong winds if they’re paired with the right tyre of the right width.
It’s air detachment at yaw angles that give the twitch when you’re overtaken by a truck or get strong side gust.
I have 65mm deep wheels that perform more calmly than some 45s depending on what tyres I use. It only takes a few mm of extra rubber to make a noticeable difference.
-
It only takes a few mm of extra rubber to make a noticeable difference.
so what's the ideal situation there? same real width, tyre slightly wider or rim slightly wider?
-
so what's the ideal situation there? same real width, tyre slightly wider or rim slightly wider?
Rim slightly wider is best, same same is fine, wider tyre is crap.
Your weight and roughness of roads when you ride should dictate what tyres you want to run, then choose a rim to suit.
Most people just choose cheap wheels and sling on some tyres.
-
Regarding running too narrow tires on wider rims, the cross-sectional, more oval shape of the tire exposes more of the sidewall to the riding surface. All bike sidewalls are much thinner than the center tread and have less rubber protecting the casing (see "Bicycle Rolling Resistance" website). A well matched rim and tire that will easily roll over a medium sharp rock could get an irreparable sidewall cut on a sharp edged stone. This was once an expensive lesson for me.
Rim slightly wider is best, same same is fine, wider tyre is crap.
Your weight and roughness of roads when you ride should dictate what tyres you want to run, then choose a rim to suit.
Most people just choose cheap wheels and sling on some tyres.
-
Regarding running too narrow tires on wider rims, the cross-sectional, more oval shape of the tire exposes more of the sidewall to the riding surface. All bike sidewalls are much thinner than the center tread and have less rubber protecting the casing (see "Bicycle Rolling Resistance" website). A well matched rim and tire that will easily roll over a medium sharp rock could get an irreparable sidewall cut on a sharp edged stone. This was once an expensive lesson for me.
Shame, that’s unlucky.
The last sidewall cut I got was about 2017 and about 90+ thousand kilometres ago. It was a 25mm GP4K on a Mavic SLR with about an 18mm internal.
This isn’t really the thread to get into sidewall cuts and rim width, there are other threads already catering for that.
I’ve recently uploaded some pictures of differing rim/tyre combinations, some of which are super aggressive and none have encountered any sidewall wear. ( it was one of the things I was specifically testing for )
According to the race group I ride with, I’m fast though corners, so, like punctures, there is a lot of luck /Un luck involved in sidewall damage regardless of fitment.
But whatever, we’re all entitled to our own opinions, but I put a lot of time and energy into testing rather than reading about what others are doing, so i have real world experience.
-
Just finished my first build and my first ride of 85 km.
Frame: Lightcarbon LCR018-D 56 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 52/36 11-36T 165mm
Wheel set: Elitewheels Edge 3.0 52mm
Saddle: Ryet 3D Carbon
Seat Post with zero setback
8,1 kg (with with pedals, computer mount, bottle cage, handlebar tape)
Unfortunately, the saddle is still causing problems. The seatpost stays in place after I greased the sliding surfaces of the clamp and the bolt, but the saddle tilts under load.
I’ve already tightened the clamp quite firmly, but I was careful because of the carbon struts (recommended torque: max. 5 Nm). Even so, the saddle tipped over when I hit a pothole. I haven’t used carbon paste yet.
What would you recommend I do next?
- Tighten the bolts even more? (Unfortunately, a torque wrench won’t fit due to the design.)
- Try carbon paste?
Do you have any tips?
-
Hello here :),
I subscribe to this forum because I'm struggling to choose the correct size of this frame and I'd like to get some advice.
I'm currently ride a triban RC 500:
- Stack: 603 mm
- Reach: 385 mm
- Effective top tube length: 564 mm
- Head tube length: 185 mm
- Stem length: 110 mm
- No spacers under the stem
Some of my personnal info:
- Height: 184 cm
- Inseam: approximately 85–86 cm
- Wingspan: 194 cm
- Current saddle height (BB center to saddle top): approximately 765 mm
- Saddle-to-handlebar height difference: approximately 95 mm
- My elbows are always slightly bent when riding on the hoods.
I have never done rides up to a 2 hours, but my goal with the LCR018-D is long-term comfort and longer endurance rides in the future.
My intended use:
- 80% road riding
- 20% light gravel
- Priority: comfort, reliability and keeping the bike for many years rather than maximum racing performance.
Lightcarbon told me I should go with a 54:
"Engineer Verdict & Complete Optimal Build Spec (Comfort-First) for you:
Best selection: LCR018-D Size 54 (56cm is not recommended)
Seatpost: 15mm offset
Cockpit: HBR17 integrated bar with 110mm stem length, 10mm total headset spacers (2×5mm)"
To be honnest, I'm not entirely sure about this recommendation. I used a LLM (don't blame me too hard ToT) to compare all these numbers and get some advice (I'm a total noob) and they are more mixed than Lightcarbon considering the size.
In your opinion, should I go with a 54 or a 56? I’m literally right in between those two sizes x)?
Since this is a long-term project, I’m afraid of making the wrong decision.
One more question about the paintjob. I recently read here that prices start at 250$ now, even if you just want a single color paint. Could you confirm this? Plus, I find their color chart (on technology>decal and painting) very limited.
Whe you look at those google photos:
- https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNbDeA19x05JwZpr2bHiyu0E5YvzamaKK0gF4bklCOxZBix-NIZwmdfVDWaPsTPAw?key=TW5fdWpvaV9BcFBXalladVVHUkV0RkM3cVFjNEJ3
- https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPBg-nYi2ZcQvF4-KlV2GH7TT53Agtv821dpfaxWmwKW1LULs7xaKbSnqBdlfqjKQ?key=di1HT0ZOOENJaWZSZlBuUkZhdTNtR3U5cDd2dWtB
You can see much more colors and textures on their frames. Do they have other references for colors and texture paint?
Thank you so much everyone ♥
-
Any reason you’re not getting a bike fit instead of guessing?
-
Unfortunately, the saddle is still causing problems. The seatpost stays in place after I greased the sliding surfaces of the clamp and the bolt, but the saddle tilts under load.
I’ve already tightened the clamp quite firmly, but I was careful because of the carbon struts (recommended torque: max. 5 Nm). Even so, the saddle tipped over when I hit a pothole. I haven’t used carbon paste yet.
What would you recommend I do next?
- Tighten the bolts even more? (Unfortunately, a torque wrench won’t fit due to the design.)
- Try carbon paste?
Do you have any tips?
Ryet use solid, not hollow carbon rails.
You’re free to use as much torque as you need as they can’t be crushed.
Try 8+
-
Just finished my first build and my first ride of 85 km.
Frame: Lightcarbon LCR018-D 56 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 52/36 11-36T 165mm
Wheel set: Elitewheels Edge 3.0 52mm
Saddle: Ryet 3D Carbon
Seat Post with zero setback
8,1 kg (with with pedals, computer mount, bottle cage, handlebar tape)
Unfortunately, the saddle is still causing problems. The seatpost stays in place after I greased the sliding surfaces of the clamp and the bolt, but the saddle tilts under load.
I’ve already tightened the clamp quite firmly, but I was careful because of the carbon struts (recommended torque: max. 5 Nm). Even so, the saddle tipped over when I hit a pothole. I haven’t used carbon paste yet.
What would you recommend I do next?
- Tighten the bolts even more? (Unfortunately, a torque wrench won’t fit due to the design.)
- Try carbon paste?
Do you have any tips?
I am not a medical professional...sorry...a professional bike mechanic, so take my next words with caution :):
Just torque it more - i also had the same problem and torqued it, till it was no problem anymore. Or chose a different saddle without carbon rails.
-
Do you have any tips?
Grind the contact area with a coarse grit. After I did this I had no more skidding.
Btw the same goes with the seatpost clamp. After I sand it down I had no slippage anymore, almost as good as the new designed clamp.
-
The saddle tilts under load. I’ve already tightened the clamp quite firmly, but I was careful because of the carbon struts (recommended torque: max. 5 Nm).
Step 15 "Install the saddle and tighten the seat post clamp bolts to 8–10 Nm"
I use Ryet saddles and no issue yet with 10nm.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab023
-
Step 15 "Install the saddle and tighten the seat post clamp bolts to 8–10 Nm"
I use Ryet saddles and no issue yet with 10nm.
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-aero-endurance-disc-brake-road-carbon-frameset-with-integrated-handlebar_p268.html#parentHorizontalTab023
Yes, I'm familiar with Lightcarbon's instructions. The 5 Nm is the torque specified by Ryet for that specific saddle with carbon struts.
-
Yes, I'm familiar with Lightcarbon's instructions. The 5 Nm is the torque specified by Ryet for that specific saddle with carbon struts.
They technically specify the 5nm for yolk style seatposts. A full clamp such as the 18D is much higher
-
hello all,
wonder about the frame sizes to body high
I am 1,80m with 84 Leglength, my former frames are
Planet X Tempest Size L stack 587 reach 395
Cube Agree 2020 Size 56 stack 573 reach 390
The geomtry and size chart for the LCR018-D says for 1,80m
size 540 for 1,80-1,86m with stack 569 and reach 383
size 560 for 1,87-1,93n with stack 586,8 and reach 389
Would choose the 560 frame with short stem 100mm and both seat posts with and wothoz offset , but now i am not sure ...
What ist your body hig and what frame size do you use for the LCR018-D
Thanks and kindest regards
Frank
-
It appears there are a few people in this thread that are running mechanical on this bike. I have an R7000 Ultegra setup currently and fancy keeping it for now as nothing is wrong with it and I've had no shifting issues. I've seen some tips about cable stops etc in the threads but if anyone is reading that is running a mechanical groupset, any extra hints or tips? thanks
-
hello all,
wonder about the frame sizes to body high
I am 1,80m with 84 Leglength, my former frames are
Planet X Tempest Size L stack 587 reach 395
Cube Agree 2020 Size 56 stack 573 reach 390
The geomtry and size chart for the LCR018-D says for 1,80m
size 540 for 1,80-1,86m with stack 569 and reach 383
size 560 for 1,87-1,93n with stack 586,8 and reach 389
Would choose the 560 frame with short stem 100mm and both seat posts with and wothoz offset , but now i am not sure ...
What ist your body hig and what frame size do you use for the LCR018-D
Thanks and kindest regards
Frank
I'm in the same situation with 1,84m. Lightcarbon recommanded me 54 without any doubts:
"Engineer Verdict & Complete Optimal Build Spec (Comfort-First) for you:
Best selection: LCR018-D Size 54 (56cm is not recommended)
Seatpost: 15mm offset
Cockpit: HBR17 integrated bar with 110mm stem length, 10mm total headset spacers (2×5mm)"
-
I'm in the same situation with 1,84m. Lightcarbon recommanded me 54 without any doubts:
"Engineer Verdict & Complete Optimal Build Spec (Comfort-First) for you:
Best selection: LCR018-D Size 54 (56cm is not recommended)
Seatpost: 15mm offset
Cockpit: HBR17 integrated bar with 110mm stem length, 10mm total headset spacers (2×5mm)"
This all really confuses me, I've had a huge dilemma with the bike frame size. my current bike I feel fits me well other than wanting perhaps a shorter stem but comparing geometry it seems to always come back to a 58.
I am 188cm tall, 87 inseam to barefoot on the floor. Not great flexibility.
I compare my current bike (blue) to the LCR-018D in a 58 (red) it matches closest, 56 is a lot smaller. I was going to buy 58 with a 110cm stem and 0 offset seatpost.
I had a bike fit on my current so it seems like going with a similar size would suit me. Sadly it was 9 years ago and all done on paper which I've long since lost and my bike fitter didn't keep online records.
(https://i.ibb.co/6Rh5gYmc/Screenshot-20260721-142153.png)
-
If it was 9 years ago that old fit is irrelevant. Get another one.
-
My concern with that is the double cost as I'll need another once the bike is built and funds are a little tight. Obviously buying the wrong frame is also more expensive. The 56 is quite a lot smaller which scares me!
(https://i.ibb.co/S4SXy9yg/Screenshot-20260721-144756.png)
-
My concern with that is the double cost as I'll need another once the bike is built and funds are a little tight. Obviously buying the wrong frame is also more expensive. The 56 is quite a lot smaller which scares me!
You can get a pre-purchase bike fit. They basically replicate the bike's geometry on a special fitting bike, and from there they determine the exact frame size and all the other measurements, such as saddle height, stem length, handlebar width, and more.
That way, you can buy the bike with the correct dimensions and set it up with the right number of spacers from the start. It saves you both time and money because you won't have to keep experimenting and swapping components. I think it's your best option if you're not sure about the right measurements.
-
You can get a pre-purchase bike fit. They basically replicate the bike's geometry on a special fitting bike, and from there they determine the exact frame size and all the other measurements, such as saddle height, stem length, handlebar width, and more.
That way, you can buy the bike with the correct dimensions and set it up with the right number of spacers from the start. It saves you both time and money because you won't have to keep experimenting and swapping components. I think it's your best option if you're not sure about the right measurements.
Exactly.
I have no idea why people guess the size and then spend far more money buying different seatposts and bars to you and dial in a suitable fit.
Get the fitter to do the work and it’ll cost less and you’ll have a far more enjoyable experience.
-
hello all,
wonder about the frame sizes to body high
I am 1,80m with 84 Leglength, my former frames are
Planet X Tempest Size L stack 587 reach 395
Cube Agree 2020 Size 56 stack 573 reach 390
The geomtry and size chart for the LCR018-D says for 1,80m
size 540 for 1,80-1,86m with stack 569 and reach 383
size 560 for 1,87-1,93n with stack 586,8 and reach 389
Would choose the 560 frame with short stem 100mm and both seat posts with and wothoz offset , but now i am not sure ...
What ist your body hig and what frame size do you use for the LCR018-D
Thanks and kindest regards
Frank
well, which of the 2 existing bikes do you like more and why?
which issue (stack or reach) is most important or limiting? usually it's stack, so i'd pick the size of the LCR that addresses that issue best. and then accommodate for the other (reach) with bar choice. so if stack's the priority, then pick the LCR size that matches the stack you want and you can shorten or lengthen the reach with a shorter or longer stem bar.
asking what random people on the internet picked, even if you're the same height, may not be helpful since everyone has different flexibility, longer arms vs longer legs, preferences, etc.
but your plan for a 56 sounds reasonable
-
Stack and reach are interlinked - get a 56 and add spacers will shorten the reach. Depending on the amount of spacers you add, you may need a longer stem to compensate.
It’s gets complicated - hence suggesting a pre bike fit.
-
I'm in the same situation with 1,84m. Lightcarbon recommanded me 54 without any doubts:
"Engineer Verdict & Complete Optimal Build Spec (Comfort-First) for you:
Best selection: LCR018-D Size 54 (56cm is not recommended)
Seatpost: 15mm offset
Cockpit: HBR17 integrated bar with 110mm stem length, 10mm total headset spacers (2×5mm)"
I'm 183cm, and have the 560. Feels perfect.
-
Ok thanks,
- 184cm
- Inseam: approximately 85–86 cm
- Wingspan: 194 cm
I think the 560 will be more comfortable, even though they recommended the 540 to me.
-
I'm 183cm, just 82cm inseam and have chosen 520. I use it as a roadbike andcweren't sure about 52 or 54.
So I tried a few bikes before. Specialized SL8 in 54 was my favorite, but too low. LCR018-D in 52mm is 15mm higher (7mm+8mm risebar)
I would've been able to get in my position on both bikes. But on size LCR 54 I wouldn't have any spacer left and i would have chosen a shorter stemlength.
Blue SL8
Red 52
Yellow 54
-
I'm really sorry to spam but I'm totally lost...
Ratio after hours talking with LLMs:
540 : 55 %
560 : 45 %
LightCarbon's engineer has consistently recommended the 54 and not recommended the 56 after several emails. Even after I provided additional information about my current bike fit, body measurements and riding goals, they still recommend:
Size 54
15 mm offset seatpost
HBR17 integrated cockpit with a 110 mm stem
10 mm of headset spacers
I'm hesitating because of their recommended setup for the size 54 already seems to push the frame toward the upper end of its adjustment range. That makes me wonder whether I'm already close to the upper limit of the 54, and whether the 56 might offer a more natural fit with fewer compensating adjustments.
My current bike is a Triban RC500 size L, which fits me well. I ride with:
110 mm stem
No spacers
Saddle height: ~765 mm
Saddle setback: ~120 mm
Saddle to handlebar distance: ~580 mm
Saddle to hood distance: ~650 mm
Saddle-to-handlebar drop: ~95 mm
My priority is comfort on long rides, not an aggressive race position. I also plan to keep this bike for many years.
My concern is that the 54 seems to require a relatively long stem (110 mm) and spacers to achieve my position, while the 56 appears closer to my current bike's overall fit. On the other hand, I don't want to end up with a frame that's too large.
My body measurements are:
Height: 184 cm
Inseam: 86 cm
Wingspan: 194 cm (+10 cm compared to my height)
Torso length (sternum to inseam): ~68.2 cm
Arm length (acromion to tip of middle finger): ~84 cm
Femur length: ~46 cm
I'm worried that the handlebar might be too low on the size 54
Based on these measurements and my current position, would you choose the 54 or the 56, and why?
-
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/triban-rc500-2019-l,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-54,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-56/
You buy the bike you want,
After compare geometrys LCR018 in 56 is more near your atual bike, if you feel good position wise on the Triban my opinion is "i would go for a 56".
For me was the opposite, i was on a bigger frame 56 (3t Strada ) and i felt too stretch needed to have the sadle too far foward etc... , so i went with 54.
-
I think you just want to hear a specific answer which you already have given yourself between the lines.
-
Just finished my first build and my first ride of 85 km.
Frame: Lightcarbon LCR018-D 56 cm
Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2 52/36 11-36T 165mm
Wheel set: Elitewheels Edge 3.0 52mm
Saddle: Ryet 3D Carbon
Seat Post with zero setback
8,1 kg (with with pedals, computer mount, bottle cage, handlebar tape)
Unfortunately, the saddle is still causing problems. The seatpost stays in place after I greased the sliding surfaces of the clamp and the bolt, but the saddle tilts under load.
I’ve already tightened the clamp quite firmly, but I was careful because of the carbon struts (recommended torque: max. 5 Nm). Even so, the saddle tipped over when I hit a pothole. I haven’t used carbon paste yet.
What would you recommend I do next?
- Tighten the bolts even more? (Unfortunately, a torque wrench won’t fit due to the design.)
- Try carbon paste?
Do you have any tips?
Had the same problem, after confirmation with LC (whatsapp message from wendy dat Engineer Team says i can torque to 10NM), i had more carbon paste and now torque to 9/10NM, fixed the problem .
-
I think you just want to hear a specific answer which you already have given yourself between the lines.
Surely, but I'm not confident and stubborn enough to make a decision based solely on that. That's why I'm asking here ToT. LLMs discussions didn't told me I was wrong. If that had been the case, I would have changed my mind and gone with a 54.
-
My concern with that is the double cost as I'll need another once the bike is built and funds are a little tight. Obviously buying the wrong frame is also more expensive. The 56 is quite a lot smaller which scares me!
(https://i.ibb.co/S4SXy9yg/Screenshot-20260721-144756.png)
Did you change the color of the frames in the comparisons?
In the first comparison, the bikes are aligned at the ground, and in the second comparison, they are aligned at the bottom bracket.
-
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/triban-rc500-2019-l,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-54,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-56/
If you atual bike is good you want the numbers bellow to be similiar :
Reach
Stack
Seat Angle
Head Angle
-
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/triban-rc500-2019-l,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-54,lightcarbon-lcr018-d-2025-56/
If you atual bike is good you want the numbers bellow to be similiar :
Reach
Stack
Seat Angle
Head Angle
Thank you very much. That's why I think 56 isn't a stupid choice, even if LightCarbon still want I pick the 54 size. I want something more comfortable/endurance than race/performance.
-
Thank you very much. That's why I think 56 isn't a stupid choice, even if LightCarbon still want I pick the 54 size. I want something more comfortable/endurance than race/performance.
I don't know your conversation with LC but from what I see regarding stack.
54 is 34mm lower on paper. When you subtract 10mm for bearing cover, 10mm in spacers being suggested and 8mm of bar rise, you are now only 6mm lower.
56 is 16mm lower. Subtract 10mm for bearing cover and 8mm bar rise. You are now 2mm higher.
What are you looking for long term? Are you 100% content with the current Triban position and will NEVER want to go lower in the front end? The 56 will place you slightly higher with the bar slammed. 54 gives you the option to go lower in the future, if you decide. You can also do 15mm of spacers instead of 10mm to get 1mm lower than your current setup.
**Numbers are quick for reference but you would need to do some calculations for the headtube angle, stem angles, stem length and spacers to get it mm perfect.
POTOOOOOOOO really nailed it.
Stack and reach are interlinked - Depending on the amount of spacers you add, you may need a longer stem to compensate.
It’s gets complicated - hence suggesting a pre bike fit.
-
I don't know your conversation with LC but from what I see regarding stack.
54 is 34mm lower on paper. When you subtract 10mm for bearing cover, 10mm in spacers being suggested and 8mm of bar rise, you are now only 6mm lower.
56 is 16mm lower. Subtract 10mm for bearing cover and 8mm bar rise. You are now 2mm higher.
What are you looking for long term? Are you 100% content with the current Triban position and will NEVER want to go lower in the front end? The 56 will place you slightly higher with the bar slammed. 54 gives you the option to go lower in the future, if you decide. You can also do 15mm of spacers instead of 10mm to get 1mm lower than your current setup.
I'm really comfortable on my Triban right now, and I'm afraid to switch, haha.
But my problem is that I have no experience with a sportier frame, and I've never gone on a ride longer than 2 hours with this Triban.
My stem is 110mm, and I don’t have any spacers on my Triban RC500. On the 54, I’ll have to stack spacers and go with an integrated handlebar that’s 110mm (I can’t adjust the stem), and 100mm on the 56 with no spacers.
This is a long-term decision. I think I can easily adapt to both setups, but what about in 5 or 10 years if my style changes? Which one offers the most flexibility?
-
I'm really comfortable on my Triban right now, and I'm afraid to switch, haha.
But my problem is that I have no experience with a sportier frame, and I've never gone on a ride longer than 2 hours with this Triban.
My stem is 110mm, and I don’t have any spacers on my Triban RC500. On the 54, I’ll have to stack spacers and go with an integrated handlebar that’s 110mm (I can’t adjust the stem), and 100mm on the 56 with no spacers.
This is a long-term decision. I think I can easily adapt to both setups, but what about in 5 or 10 years if my style changes? Which one offers the most flexibility?
You’re a novice. 2 hours is not a long ride and even a sub optimal fit won’t show any issues during that time. I also think you’re being a title optimistic when you’re looking 7 years into the future. A bike fit changes as people get injured/ flexibility improves and as the rider changes - ages.
Why don’t you take some advice with a professional fit and set yourself up for success, rather than keep on this journey of guessing? You simply don’t know what you don’t know at this stage in your cycling career.
As a FYI - reach is also effected by bar reach, manufacture of shifter and how they’re positioned - not just stem length.
All of these things need to be accounted for in a bike fit. Any previous injury or physical asymmetry, all make a difference.
Go get fitted - no one can help you anymore than already have.
-
You're right; I just don't want to spend €250 on a bike fit. I didn't realize that choosing the right bike size was so complicated and personalized.
-
They arent all 250 euro. Where are you?
-
In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.
-
In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.
An option. It wouldn’t be as good, but better than guessing.
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/ (https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/)
-
Thank you.
-
An option. It wouldn’t be as good, but better than guessing.
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/ (https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/)
I’ve been riding for 20 years and thought I had a good grasp on my fit.
Tried myvelofit last week and it immediately said my saddle was 5cm too high :o
It’s been a crazy shift in feeling - I’ve settled around 3cm lower at the minute….the difference in balance and comfort is absolutely crazy. I can do things like the puppy paw position due to how planted I feel - legs will take some muscular adjustment and the brain needs to follow, but it’s been such an eye opener.
Give it a try - there’s a free option to start and the paid options aren’t a fortune. If you don’t want to pay for a fitter, this is a great option.
-
my guess is very few people, no matter how many times it's suggested, will get a bike fit. folks are spending $700 on a frame, so $200-300 for a bike fit may be difficult. i'm all for bike fits (used to do them) but i understand the friction.
truth is most people are still think of choosing a bike like buying a T-shirt (small/medium/large/etc). in the simplistic terms that's technically true, but yes, it can be super complicated too. but i also think the newer you are, the less the subtleties will be noticed. i remember adjusting the saddle a few mm up/down/forward/rearward for my wife and kids' bikes. no one ever noticed! :-). ok, maybe my son appreciated me raising and moving the seat a bit when he was growing like a weed :-)
as for dropping the saddle, i went through something similar when i got my gravel bike 2 years ago.
i thought i knew my measurements after years of road riding and transferred them fairly closely to the gravel bike. but i felt just a bit sketchy on descents still, kind of top heavy despite the bike having a greater bb drop and slacker head tube angle, etc. so i dropped the saddle 5mm. the lowering of center of gravity, really being able to weight the outside pedal, a little more flex in the knees to absorb bumps, all made for a huge difference. also felt more power at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
i decided to drop my road saddle 5mm (and back a little to compensate) and same benefits! felt a little too low at first, but within a few rides, i was setting descending PRs and even some climbing ones with the added power. a few weeks after that, swapped to shorter stem on the road bike too and could more easily get in "puppy paws" and stay in the drops, etc. just shows age, loss of flexibility, etc. sneaks up on us.
maybe that'll take some pressure on some of the newbie folks getting their fit absolutely right. '
a new bike will always take some getting used to. and if you're newish, you may not be all that set on your old fit. give it a few rides. if it feels off, make some minor adjustments (seat back/forward, up/down, etc) and ride a few more times and see if it feels better. bummer is with the new integrated cockpits you lose the ability to easily and relatively inexpensively swap to a different stem. i have a couple shoe boxes of old 26 and 31.6 stems from 80-140mm from the various mountain, road, tri, tandem bikes we've had!
-
my guess is very few people, no matter how many times it's suggested, will get a bike fit. folks are spending $700 on a frame, so $200-300 for a bike fit may be difficult. i'm all for bike fits (used to do them) but i understand the friction.
truth is most people are still think of choosing a bike like buying a T-shirt (small/medium/large/etc). in the simplistic terms that's technically true, but yes, it can be super complicated too. but i also think the newer you are, the less the subtleties will be noticed. i remember adjusting the saddle a few mm up/down/forward/rearward for my wife and kids' bikes. no one ever noticed! :-). ok, maybe my son appreciated me raising and moving the seat a bit when he was growing like a weed :-)
as for dropping the saddle, i went through something similar when i got my gravel bike 2 years ago.
i thought i knew my measurements after years of road riding and transferred them fairly closely to the gravel bike. but i felt just a bit sketchy on descents still, kind of top heavy despite the bike having a greater bb drop and slacker head tube angle, etc. so i dropped the saddle 5mm. the lowering of center of gravity, really being able to weight the outside pedal, a little more flex in the knees to absorb bumps, all made for a huge difference. also felt more power at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
i decided to drop my road saddle 5mm (and back a little to compensate) and same benefits! felt a little too low at first, but within a few rides, i was setting descending PRs and even some climbing ones with the added power. a few weeks after that, swapped to shorter stem on the road bike too and could more easily get in "puppy paws" and stay in the drops, etc. just shows age, loss of flexibility, etc. sneaks up on us.
maybe that'll take some pressure on some of the newbie folks getting their fit absolutely right. '
a new bike will always take some getting used to. and if you're newish, you may not be all that set on your old fit. give it a few rides. if it feels off, make some minor adjustments (seat back/forward, up/down, etc) and ride a few more times and see if it feels better. bummer is with the new integrated cockpits you lose the ability to easily and relatively inexpensively swap to a different stem. i have a couple shoe boxes of old 26 and 31.6 stems from 80-140mm from the various mountain, road, tri, tandem bikes we've had!
To a degree I agree with you. But some people notice micro adjustments too.
I build bikes for quite a few racers in my local area, and also suggest fit changes based on what I see and their need/feedback.
Some are willing to experiment and see decent gains while others are absolutely set on a particular position and won’t change, regardless of benefit (narrower bars aiding aero)
However. I would always suggest someone new to cycling get a baseline fit before their muscles get accustomed to a potentially wrong fit, and need to be “reprogrammed”
I suggest MYvelofit because it’s easy and cheap, and it’s good enough.
Every few weeks we get a new person on this thread and asking for bike fit advice. I’ve seen a few people guess their size and order their frame. A few weeks later they proudly show of their bike and you can tell from the picture it’s absolutely terribly put together, but yet they always say “fits me perfectly” they think that, because their fit has always been wrong and they’re programmed into it.
Sure it might work but i’m positive they’re missing out on power, climbing ability, handling and comfort . While possibly allowing the opportunity for injury.
Height and inside leg are the dumbest metrics to assess bike size, the industry needs to solve this.
I’m 178cm and ride a 52 - with a 110 stem I have long legs and short arms. If you look at a size guide they usually suggest a 54 or even a 56.
My first bikes were always purchased based from the size chart so I went with 54s - I always disliked them so sold and purchased another and another and another, always feeling like something was wrong. But I didn’t know any better.
It was only when a saw a decent fitter that I opted for a 52 and everything clicked - I actually felt like I could extract the potential.
Just to confirm I even purchased the same frame in a 52 and 54 just to experiment, and the 54 is always too big. Or in order to get it to fit, i start to encounter handling traits I really don’t like.
-
To a degree I agree with you. But some people notice micro adjustments too.
I build bikes for quite a few racers in my local area, and also suggest fit changes based on what I see and their need/feedback.
Some are willing to experiment and see decent gains while others are absolutely set on a particular position and won’t change, regardless of benefit (narrower bars aiding aero)
However. I would always suggest someone new to cycling get a baseline fit before their muscles get accustomed to a potentially wrong fit, and need to be “reprogrammed”
I suggest MYvelofit because it’s easy and cheap, and it’s good enough.
Every few weeks we get a new person on this thread and asking for bike fit advice. I’ve seen a few people guess their size and order their frame. A few weeks later they proudly show of their bike and you can tell from the picture it’s absolutely terribly put together, but yet they always say “fits me perfectly” they think that, because their fit has always been wrong and they’re programmed into it.
Sure it might work but i’m positive they’re missing out on power, climbing ability, handling and comfort . While possibly allowing the opportunity for injury.
Height and inside leg are the dumbest metrics to assess bike size, the industry needs to solve this.
I’m 178cm and ride a 52 - with a 110 stem I have long legs and short arms. If you look at a size guide they usually suggest a 54 or even a 56.
My first bikes were always purchased based from the size chart so I went with 54s - I always disliked them so sold and purchased another and another and another, always feeling like something was wrong. But I didn’t know any better.
It was only when a saw a decent fitter that I opted for a 52 and everything clicked - I actually felt like I could extract the potential.
Just to confirm I even purchased the same frame in a 52 and 54 just to experiment, and the 54 is always too big. Or in order to get it to fit, i start to encounter handling traits I really don’t like.
Yeah, a cheap online fit has turned what I thought about my fit on its head.
Im 180cm and have always been recommended 54 or 56 by all bike brands - going by my new fit I would actually be better off on a 52 as well - I could run a 110mm stem and would have a bit more exposed seatpost than I have now (now thats its been reduced).
You're never too old or too experienced to learn something new, and this has been a major lesson!
-
Yeah, a cheap online fit has turned what I thought about my fit on its head.
Im 180cm and have always been recommended 54 or 56 by all bike brands - going by my new fit I would actually be better off on a 52 as well - I could run a 110mm stem and would have a bit more exposed seatpost than I have now (now thats its been reduced).
You're never too old or too experienced to learn something new, and this has been a major lesson!
Did you try the free version, or the paid for?
I’m honestly surprised by the amount seatpost height it’s suggesting to reduce- that’s not to say I’m doubting the results.
A friend of mine had similar results after a full bike fit with a well regarded guy in Ireland. It was transformative, and after years of back pain and discomfort he’s absolutely flying and mostly pain free.
-
I’ve been riding for 20 years and thought I had a good grasp on my fit.
Tried myvelofit last week and it immediately said my saddle was 5cm too high :o
It’s been a crazy shift in feeling - I’ve settled around 3cm lower at the minute….
Sorry for the question, but how did you manage to set the saddle 5 cm too high? If I do that, I wouldn't even be able to reach the pedal.
Even the simple check (heel on the pedal) wouldn't work in that case.
-
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/ (https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/)
In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.
DIY fit (or yolo) vs bike fit vs online fit is a key question for most, could be a separate thread.
Beyond cost of real life fit, there's distance / wait lists, and maybe even more importantly, it's very easy to find people who go through a bike fit and ultimately regret it. (not worth it, incompetence...).
I think that people who experience pain on the bike "should" get a bike fit. But i dont think i'd say the same for those who dont.
Moving to online bike fit tools, if it turns out to work well, sounds like a great development. I wanted to point out that https://www.youtube.com/@myvelofit has a toooon of videos, so there's a good chance that whether free or paid, the myvelofit experience is likely to be better if you spend time watching some of their stuff. I suspect that most people who're thinking about a bike fit have a specific area of interest. Mine, currently, is wondering how much more stack i should / could add to my cockpit (and how much longer the stem should be) so that i can have a more sustainable puppy paws position. And when that would start affecting handling downhill.
For that, I do miss very much the era of being able to swap out stems for 10 eur, or even using adjustable stems.
I think i saw a youtuber (peak torque?) saying their favourite feature on their dedicated home trainer was the ability to change fits in minutes (like the zwift / wahoo bike). A bike fit at home where you're stuck in one front position because of your cockpit sounds like a huge limiting aspect.
Maybe the answer is finding a friend with such rig, and do one's fit at his place one day :)
-
Did you try the free version, or the paid for?
I’m honestly surprised by the amount seatpost height it’s suggesting to reduce- that’s not to say I’m doubting the results.
A friend of mine had similar results after a full bike fit with a well regarded guy in Ireland. It was transformative, and after years of back pain and discomfort he’s absolutely flying and mostly pain free.
I ended up paying for the pro version to get the unlimited uploads (it kept reducing me 1cm at a time, so I quickly ran out of quota).
5cm down was crazy - felt terrible in the legs and would be unsustainable, but it was enough to change my thought process due to the way it unweighted my hands and gave me total freedom.
Took the LCR018 out for a 3 hour ride with an Allen key in my pocket and adjusted 3 or 4 times until I came to a compromise around 3cm lower where I still had this great solid platform and heading more towards the leg/knee angles myvelofit suggested.
Im obviously activating muscles in a totally different way now, so need to do a few weeks to really settle into the position, but overall its an excellent change - and ive ordered a 90mm integrated handlebar instead of my 80mm which will hopefully be the final piece in the puzzle.
Looking back all of a sudden, my old position feels crazy, yet I was out doing 4 hour rides like that for year after year.
The only downside to an online fit is the lack of feedback - id like to cut my steerer to drop the bars down another 1cm, however myvelofit is suggesting that the bars are already where they should be for an aggressive fit ad already too low for a performance/comfort balanced fit. Being a flat recommendation, theres no one to question or ask what options are available, but for the cost involved and the basic results you get, it really is a great service.
-
DIY fit (or yolo) vs bike fit vs online fit is a key question for most, could be a separate thread.
Beyond cost of real life fit, there's distance / wait lists, and maybe even more importantly, it's very easy to find people who go through a bike fit and ultimately regret it. (not worth it, incompetence...).
I think that people who experience pain on the bike "should" get a bike fit. But i dont think i'd say the same for those who dont.
Moving to online bike fit tools, if it turns out to work well, sounds like a great development. I wanted to point out that https://www.youtube.com/@myvelofit has a toooon of videos, so there's a good chance that whether free or paid, the myvelofit experience is likely to be better if you spend time watching some of their stuff. I suspect that most people who're thinking about a bike fit have a specific area of interest. Mine, currently, is wondering how much more stack i should / could add to my cockpit (and how much longer the stem should be) so that i can have a more sustainable puppy paws position. And when that would start affecting handling downhill.
For that, I do miss very much the era of being able to swap out stems for 10 eur, or even using adjustable stems.
I think i saw a youtuber (peak torque?) saying their favourite feature on their dedicated home trainer was the ability to change fits in minutes (like the zwift / wahoo bike). A bike fit at home where you're stuck in one front position because of your cockpit sounds like a huge limiting aspect.
Maybe the answer is finding a friend with such rig, and do one's fit at his place one day :)
I’ve found that a turbo trainer position and a bike you ride on the road have different positions which aren’t necessarily transferable.
Sounds strange but it’s a real thing, so I’d be cautious setting up a bike on a turbo, then replicating that.
As you rightly said, bike fit it another thread entirely, but so now I hope this helps people.
-
The only downside to an online fit is the lack of feedback - id like to cut my steerer to drop the bars down another 1cm, however myvelofit is suggesting that the bars are already where they should be for an aggressive fit ad already too low for a performance/comfort balanced fit. Being a flat recommendation, theres no one to question or ask what options are available, but for the cost involved and the basic results you get, it really is a great service.
Good point. their website offers a human review for a fee. Worth considering. Also worth considering would be to reach out to a bike fitter with the right videos / evolution of fit and ask for input / pay for their time? If you say that you're in a different country, but value their input, they might help for free / for a fee, i'd say it's worth trying. Although i would first get used to the new riding position, because that saddle height change sounds dramatic, so i wouldnt fire my last bullet too fast.
-
One thing to consider for your bike fit if/where possible. My local bike fitter is a physiotherapist, so a pre/post-purchase bike fit can be applied towards my health benefits. Something to check and consider when looking around.
-
Update on lead times for those interested. I paid on June 17th and was told 25-35 days for size 52 frame in raw carbon glossy + 400x100 bars + C53DB wheels.
Update yesterday (35 days post order) was that frame is 10 days away, fork 15 days and handlebar 30 days. Based on other's experiences in this thread I was expecting closer to 60 days in total so not exactly a surprise, but bizarre that their estimates are so consistently wrong.
-
Update on lead times for those interested. I paid on June 17th and was told 25-35 days for size 52 frame in raw carbon glossy + 400x100 bars + C53DB wheels.
Update yesterday (35 days post order) was that frame is 10 days away, fork 15 days and handlebar 30 days. Based on other's experiences in this thread I was expecting closer to 60 days in total so not exactly a surprise, but bizarre that their estimates are so consistently wrong.
I ordered 2 frames in May and still waiting. Update this morning:
The delay is due to mass production for the Vietnam Bike Show occupying factory lines, plus temporary carbon material shortage. I’ve been pushing the factory daily to rush your order. Your frames will be ready to ship in around 15 more days.
Last time I asked it was due to the European bike show and would ship from 20th July.
Longest I’ve waited for a frame :-[
-
I cancelled my order because they keep delaying, and everytime it’s for another reason.. they don’t really give me confidence.
-
As the reply next to your question, I also use the XMCS 26mm internal wheels on my LCR as seen here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DaQ0y6LiH-B/ paired with Pirelli P Zero Road 35mm. Think this width makes absolute sense given the LCR's clearance + allroad/comfort characteristics. This combo comes out at exactly 35mm with the wheels 33-35mm external width.
what was the delivery time like. looking for a new set of wheels for my 018-D.
-
Regarding the communication about delivery times, my experience differs from rcwsr's and Ghandy's.
Even before I paid for my order, the sales rep I dealt with, Joy, told me upfront that she couldn't commit to an exact timeline:
After payment, the production lead time for the frame and wheelset is 5–6 weeks, with an additional 3–4 weeks for paint.
Due to the high order volume at the moment, we cannot give an exact delivery time.
That was on the 12th of May. I paid the next day, on the 13th.
I appreciate that they were upfront about this before taking my money rather than after. I'd much rather have a vague-but-honest estimate.
Fast-forward ten weeks and I've just received photos of my painted frame in LCB-01HS, so the quoted lead time is holding up, though I'm at the top end of it.
The frame still has to ship, of course, so I'll report back once it actually arrives.
-
what was the delivery time like. looking for a new set of wheels for my 018-D.
I ordered/paid on 13.04. and took around 1 month before they shipped (16.05.). Once shipped, I received them within a week (22.05.).
-
april 4 order. received june 27. extra time for paint and delay with zero offset seat posts. so just under 12 weeks. told myself give it 12 weeks even if they initially said 8 and pretty much worked out that way.
maybe not the choice if you're on a tight timeline (bummed for those who had to cancel their orders). LC seems to be an oem 1st and so these one-off direct to consumer builds seem to be more of a side hustle. but if you have other bikes to ride while you wait, just enjoy those bikes for a few more weeks...because once you get your LCR018, you probably won't be riding those other bikes very much any more. :-) it's a great bike, and, at least for me, well worth the wait
-
Our frames are just raw matte carbon, no decals, both size XL.
The frame will take about 2–4 weeks to produce before shipment.
That was on 18th May and I paid on 20th.
Tempted to cancel but not sure what alternatives there are that would come any quicker (I really wanted to ride it in the summer!)
-
Wow thanks for the sage advice Serge ::)
Edit: Oh you deleted your post!
-
before i decided on LC, i almost ordered a quickpro. built bikes are available to ship immediately. an ultegra di2 ER1 at $4700 is a helluva deal with decent selection of stock colors, ability to spec bar/stem, crank length, seat post offset, at a very competitive weight and performance.
their frames are $2000 plus 6 weeks for custom painting + shipping.
but i wanted endurance geometry and ER1 is typical aggressive race geo. LCR018 was the rare aero endurance geo option with even more paint customization at an amazing price. the only drawback is the wait.
Our frames are just raw matte carbon, no decals, both size XL.
That was on 18th May and I paid on 20th.
Tempted to cancel but not sure what alternatives there are that would come any quicker (I really wanted to ride it in the summer!)
-
but i wanted endurance geometry and ER1 is typical aggressive race geo. LCR018 was the rare aero endurance geo option with even more paint customization at an amazing price. the only drawback is the wait.
not as endurance as you might think. It has a low stack.
-
not as endurance as you might think. It has a low stack.
Low stack compared to what?
-
not as endurance as you might think. It has a low stack.
i guess "low" is relative, but curious what other endurance bikes you're comparing the LCR018? in a 56, stack is 587 listed but there's an additional few mm from the bearing cap and HBR17 bar rise, so probably close to 600mm stack.
coming from a parlee altum (593), i was considering an envy fray (591). but other "endurance" bikes include giant defy (605), specialized roubaix (605), trek domane (591), canyon endurace (590), cannondale synapse (590), specialized aethos 2 (580), factor monza (574).
so i'd consider the LCR018 very much in the "endurance" category in terms of stack.
-
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my experiences with the LCR18 and perhaps ask for some help.
I ordered my frame on May 19th, and it arrived on Monday, July 20th (size 56cm, raw glossy carbon).
The packaging and the parcel itself survived the shipping to Germany well. During the build, I had major issues routing the 105 Di2 cable—likely due to sharp edges in the chainstay junction area. It took me two hours to get the cable through, even using a routing tool.
Build specs: 105 Di2 groupset with Magene P515, old carbon spoke Lightcarbon wheelset; total weight came to 7.9 kg including SPD pedals from ali. Carbon elitaone saddle.
I noticed creaking on the first ride, and it got significantly worse over time. I initially used the included Gineyea bottom bracket. I thought, "Okay, it must be the BB" (like the issue a fellow the English YouTuber had), so I installed a new Kaktus ceramic BB I had bought beforehand. After just 5 km, that one started creaking too. I wondered if it might be the old Magene P515 crankset, that I reused, so I swapped it for a brand-new, unused 105 crank, but the creaking returned after 5 km. I checked the frame for cracks or loose BB cups (I always apply plenty of Shimano Premium Grease before installation), but found nothing obvious. Checked and greased all of the true axles, Based on where the noise is coming from, it has to be the bottom bracket area. Strangely enough, it also creaks when you flex the frame from side to side while applying a bit of pressure, or even just when you step on a pedal. However, when the bottom bracket is removed, there is no creaking, even with lateral pressure.
Now I’ve ordered a Praxis Works BB and hope that fixes the problem.
Have any of you had similar experiences?
Thanks in advance.
Photos will follow once I've finally managed to assemble it without any creaking. :)
-
What torque setting do you use for the bottom bracket? The Lightcarbon manual recommends 25 nm, but the bottom bracket often has a recommendation of 35–40 nm written on it.
btw chechk chainrings bolts torque
-
Have any of you had similar experiences?
Thanks in advance.
I'm guessing you've watched Darren French's video on this topic. I think it's an issue that affects certain models :-\.
-
i guess "low" is relative, but curious what other endurance bikes you're comparing the LCR018? in a 56, stack is 587 listed but there's an additional few mm from the bearing cap and HBR17 bar rise, so probably close to 600mm stack.
coming from a parlee altum (593), i was considering an envy fray (591). but other "endurance" bikes include giant defy (605), specialized roubaix (605), trek domain (591), canyon endurance (590), cannondale synapse (590), specialized aethos 2 (580), factor monza (574).
so i'd consider the LCR018 very much in the "endurance" category in terms of stack.
Exactly why I asked 2wheeledbarbie "Low stack compared what"...
-
April 16th - ordered 54cm frameset with custom paint, bars are 400/80, Offset seatpost, power meter, crankset
June 28th - received pictures of the painted frameset
June 29th - received picture of all parts ordered ready to be placed in the box
June 30th - order shipped
July 10th - asked Chloe for the tracking number and she sent it
July 14th - received package with the power meter
July 21st - tracking indicates UPS now has the package
July 24th - I received the box in excellent condition (Northeast Texas USA)
Weight 7.5kg (16.7lbs)
This came with the storage door latch that pulls up for release and has the detent in the lock position; also the foam strips.
The seatpost has the grip texture.
https://youtu.be/tRF5Ah_UVPw?si=yIZ0p4iHjyFzrUQg
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRF5Ah_UVPw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRF5Ah_UVPw)
-
I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with
-
I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with
Wrong thread. Has nothing to do with this frame
-
Wrong thread. Has nothing to do with this frame
Neither does tyre width etc etc etc
Lots on info out there on crank length.
Generally, and in my own personal experience there aren’t really any down sides to going shorter.
I went from 172.5 to 170 then 165 where I currently am. In hindsight I should have gone from 172.5 to 165, the extra step was just wasted time and money.
Just be aware you’ll need to increase your saddle height and therefore bar height to keep everything the same - again, there are tones of information about just how much you need to change these things.
Be brave and go 165 ( if you can find one in stock ) if you don’t like it, they’re easy to sell, so it’s a cheap experiment.
-
similar inseam to you and ride a 56 size frame. i went from 175 to 165 about 20yrs ago on my triathlon bike to make it easier to spin in the aero position (less knee slamming into chest, easier to spin when fatigued and easier to transition onto the run) but didn’t make the change to my road bikes until about 10yrs ago.
i had noticed pinching pain in the front of my right hip after aggressive trail running or just faster running, that lingered even on the bike. basically was diagnosed with hip impingement.
bought a cheap black 105 level (rs10?) crankset to experiment (swapped the dura ace chainrings to save a few grams even though it looks a bit funky) and it worked so well it’s still on my parlee. no more pinching pain at the top of the stroke, definitely easier to get aero (flat back) and you can pedal through corners a bit easier. less pedal strikes. a little less toe overlap if you have big feet with shorter cranks too. i was PRing on a certain local group ride climb and i attribute it to the benefits from the shorter crank arms (efficiency, aero, maintaining power through corners) since i sure wasn’t getting any younger or putting in more miles.
only drawback or adjustment for me was when sprinting or out of the saddle, it did take a little bit of adjustment not having the bigger torque of the longer crank arms… you sort of just learned to spin hard and fast and stay seated a little longer. now that i’m used to it, i’d say i get out of the saddle as much as i used to but there’s not as big of a jump in watts, but that could be i’m just older too.
in any case, have since swapped to 165cranks on the gravel bike and spec’d it on the LCR. definitely one of the benefits of buying the frame and parts separately is you can specify 165 cranks when buying the groupset.
will it for sure make your knee pain better? maybe. avoiding pushing big gears and thus sticking with higher cadence will likely help, so shorter cranks would facilitate that. you probably don’t want to be too quad dominant so probably would be careful not having your seat too far forward.
I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with
-
Neither does tyre width etc etc etc
Lots on info out there a crank length.
Generally, and in my own personal experience there aren’t really any down sides to going shorter.
I went from 172.5 to 170 then 165 where I currently am. In hindsight I should have gone from 172.5 to 165, the extra step was just wasted time and money.
Just be aware you’ll need to increase your saddle height and therefore bar height to keep everything the same - again, there are tones of information about just how much you need to change these things.
Be brave and go 165 ( if you can find one in stock ) if you don’t like it, they’re easy to sell, so it’s a cheap experiment.
definitely agree with skipping right to 165. won’t feel much with a 2.5mm change.
-
Apologies for bringing it to this thread but I do feel like given the expertise in this thread that regularly come here and the geometry being the same for you guys to me, it at least gives me a data point so I appreciate the responses. Happy to open a thread here to discuss more if you guys think it's worth it. I do notice that I want to be a little further back in the saddle since the issue came about which of course I'll mention to my bike fitter, and make them aware of the issue before I go in case they want to do some research or something, I don't know, but can't hurt! I specifically want to target the VMO muscle of the quads to pull on the knee cap more to keep it straight on the bending.
165 sounds such a big jump that I'm rather intimidated by the thought of it but of course I would not rule anything out as I am not experienced like you folks!
-
2.5 mm can be swallowed just by the small amount of slack in your shoes. The cleat can effectively move back or forth more than that - which is the same for everyone, but puts it into perspective.
If you want change, you need to make change. 5mm will not make much of an effective difference, so I’d be willing to bet any felt “benefit” is placebo rather than mechanical or physical.
I built a bike for a friend of mine who was having some fit issues. I swapped him from a 175mm to a 165mm and he didn’t notice the shorter length, but he noticed his hip muscles weren’t as tight anymore.
Currently swapping all his bikes to 165 as the cranks become available
-
I finished my build, finally. Ordered April 9, received June 30 in the US Pacific NW. I got both the straight and set back seatposts and a 400/100 handle bar. I've no idea if any of the components delayed shipping. The quality and finish of the frame and components were excellent. I didn't need to chase any threads or face any mounts or the bottom bracket. I used the supplied bearings, steerer tube expansion plug and Gineyea T-47 BB. I skipped the supplied derailleur hanger to opt for a direct mount UDH hanger. Ultegra Di2 group set is from Anrancee on AliExpress.
Frame is a 52 cm. Wheels are XMCS, 50 mm deep, 26 mm inner width, 33 outer, with 3.8 mm carbon spokes. Ryet Aircode saddle. Running regular 32 mm GP5000s with RideNow TPU tubes. Total weight with computer mount, bar tape, bar end plugs, bottle cages, chain catcher, and pedals, is 7.65 kg. Feels fast but no faster than it should for its weight, I don't think. Also stiff but I ascribe that to the wheels and in particular, the carbon spokes.
Biggest assembly challenge was threading the very stiff pre-filled brake hose through the fork. I had to use a needle nose pliers to fish the end of the hose out of the steerer tube opening. I also slapped so much carbon paste on the seatpost that it got stuck in the middle before I could get it to my desired position; I had to brace my foot against the top of the bottom triangle to pull the post out. It finally came out with so much force that one of the Di2 wires pulled off the battery. Luckily nothing broke or got scratched. So far, everything is holding firm and no parts are slipping or creaking. I did use carbon paste on all the sliding surfaces on the saddle mount.
I would not have ordered the Ti computer mount if I had known that it is actually heavier than the supplied resin mount. The Ti mount doesn't look cool enough to me to justify its additional cost and minor weight penalty.
I've only taken it on a couple of short test rides, the last one for an hour, and it feels very nice. Taking it on a hill climb later today.
-
Low stack compared to what?
Merida Scultura Endurance
Trek Domane 47
Giant Defy Advanced XS
Canyon Endurace AllRoad
I personally would liked it a bit taller but the top tube length is great. It's a compact size.
-
It looks great, and the weight is good, too.
Can I ask what height you have your saddle set to from the center of the bottom bracket?
-
I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with
have you done an online bike fit to look at it? I use an free online one to look at angles and get chatgpt to analyse it along with foot position. going shorter isn't for everyone. I'm 5'6 and use 170mm cranks. Changing cranks changes a lot of things. So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.
https://mybikefitting.com/en really easy to do.
-
It looks great, and the weight is good, too.
Can I ask what height you have your saddle set to from the center of the bottom bracket?
If you're asking me, 722 mm, but I need to remeasure. It feels a little higher.
-
Now my bike is ready. No 390x90 handlebars before end of August. So picked a stock size. 400x80.
Else it would be 380x80 or 400x120. Handlebars are not produced with frames to match order it seems. They have from 5 to 45 in stock depending on size. Not a huge stock.
Got the British racing green and black logo. Wanted a logo but not too bright/screaming. Hope it will help resale value at some point.
One user sent photos of his bike to show shadow parts are dark. And here are the photos as I got them. Picked all British racing green and black logo.parts in shadow are great. Highlight is a bit bright/light green. But I guess Mads Pedersen just made that color popular yesterday in Paris.
Now I can order the other parts needed for the build. Missing just the Ultegra di2 groupset and the cable for updating handles.
Looking forward to the build.
Paid on 23 May 2026. Promised done on 23 July 2026. So 2 months as indicated initially.
Update: got a tracking number from local postal service, within hours of choosing a handlebar in stock. Not yet from LC. But guess it was booked at DHL which pushed on the request. And dimensions. 101x55x21cm and 5.5kg
-
have you done an online bike fit to look at it? I use an free online one to look at angles and get chatgpt to analyse it along with foot position. going shorter isn't for everyone. I'm 5'6 and use 170mm cranks. Changing cranks changes a lot of things. So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.
https://mybikefitting.com/en really easy to do.
It sounds like you don’t understand enough about the subject to make these sweeping statements.
Can you explain how it could make the overall position worse? And foot position? Do you mean cleat position? That’s an entirely different topic .
-
Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:
Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.
-
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my experiences with the LCR18 and perhaps ask for some help.
I ordered my frame on May 19th, and it arrived on Monday, July 20th (size 56cm, raw glossy carbon).
The packaging and the parcel itself survived the shipping to Germany well. During the build, I had major issues routing the 105 Di2 cable—likely due to sharp edges in the chainstay junction area. It took me two hours to get the cable through, even using a routing tool.
Build specs: 105 Di2 groupset with Magene P515, old carbon spoke Lightcarbon wheelset; total weight came to 7.9 kg including SPD pedals from ali. Carbon elitaone saddle.
I noticed creaking on the first ride, and it got significantly worse over time. I initially used the included Gineyea bottom bracket. I thought, "Okay, it must be the BB" (like the issue a fellow the English YouTuber had), so I installed a new Kaktus ceramic BB I had bought beforehand. After just 5 km, that one started creaking too. I wondered if it might be the old Magene P515 crankset, that I reused, so I swapped it for a brand-new, unused 105 crank, but the creaking returned after 5 km. I checked the frame for cracks or loose BB cups (I always apply plenty of Shimano Premium Grease before installation), but found nothing obvious. Checked and greased all of the true axles, Based on where the noise is coming from, it has to be the bottom bracket area. Strangely enough, it also creaks when you flex the frame from side to side while applying a bit of pressure, or even just when you step on a pedal. However, when the bottom bracket is removed, there is no creaking, even with lateral pressure.
Now I’ve ordered a Praxis Works BB and hope that fixes the problem.
Have any of you had similar experiences?
Thanks in advance.
Photos will follow once I've finally managed to assemble it without any creaking. :)
Could it be the seatpost?
-
Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:
Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.
Version 1: 53g without the screws
-
Could it be the seatpost?
No, unfortunately not; it mainly creaks when riding out of the saddle, and only when I stand on the pedals or move them with light pressure.
I suspect that neither the included bottom bracket nor the one from Kactus is compatible with a spacer. However, a spacer is necessary to adjust the crank preload.
I've already adjusted the preload several times with different cranks (P515, 105, Ultegra). Unfortunately, after 2-5 minutes it always starts creaking again.
And here’s my honest opinion about the down-tube storage:
next time, I’d just order the bike without it. In my view, it’s not worth the hassle of sealing the flap or dealing with a potentially insecure fit—plus, when the bag is full, you have to really jam it back in there. It should either be left off entirely, or they need to position the flap either above or below the bottle cage mount.
-
I see people are going for 26mm ID wheels, would this still be suitable for this bike for 32mm tyres? I ordered 23mm based on LC's recommendations but now thinking I should swap them to the gravel 26mm ID ones. Only $20 more.
I've not decided on 35mm or 32mm tyres yet, mostly will be on road but looking at Potoooooo's recommendations it seems that 26mm would be better choice either way?
-
It sounds like you don’t understand enough about the subject to make these sweeping statements.
Can you explain how it could make the overall position worse? And foot position? Do you mean cleat position? That’s an entirely different topic .
Foot position is exactly what I meant. Not everyone uses cleats, so “cleat position” would have been unnecessarily specific. On flat pedals, the position of the pedal under the foot can vary considerably and affects the effective distance from the hip to the pedal, ankle movement and the angles measured during a bike fit.
Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal path by 7.5 mm at both the top and bottom of the stroke. If the saddle is left unchanged, the rider has less hip and knee flexion at the top but more knee flexion at the bottom. If the saddle is raised to restore the original leg extension, that then changes saddle-to-bar drop, and because the saddle moves along the seat-tube angle, it also changes its horizontal position slightly.
That doesn’t mean shorter cranks are bad. They can be very useful, particularly where excessive hip or knee flexion is causing a problem. My point was simply that changing crank length changes several aspects of the fit, so it is sensible to assess the whole position rather than assume it is an isolated change with no possible trade-offs. But yeah, clearly I don’t understand the subject because I didn’t turn an internet-forum reply into a biomechanics dissertation.
-
Foot position is exactly what I meant. Not everyone uses cleats, so “cleat position” would have been unnecessarily specific. On flat pedals, the position of the pedal under the foot can vary considerably and affects the effective distance from the hip to the pedal, ankle movement and the angles measured during a bike fit.
Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal path by 7.5 mm at both the top and bottom of the stroke. If the saddle is left unchanged, the rider has less hip and knee flexion at the top but more knee flexion at the bottom. If the saddle is raised to restore the original leg extension, that then changes saddle-to-bar drop, and because the saddle moves along the seat-tube angle, it also changes its horizontal position slightly.
That doesn’t mean shorter cranks are bad. They can be very useful, particularly where excessive hip or knee flexion is causing a problem. My point was simply that changing crank length changes several aspects of the fit, so it is sensible to assess the whole position rather than assume it is an isolated change with no possible trade-offs. But yeah, clearly I don’t understand the subject because I didn’t turn an internet-forum reply into a biomechanics dissertation.
You wrote
Changing cranks changes a lot of things. So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.
Obviously it changes other aspects of your fit. That has already been mentioned here.
I’m keen to understand how it changes things for the worse ? Or was that a general throw away statement ?
The vast majority of people will be using cleats and clipless pedals so their foot position is fixed. For those using flat pedals, well, they are in the minority and I’m not sure they’d be that interested in the biomechanics of shorter cranks given the limited repeatability of their foot placement and retention
-
No, unfortunately not; it mainly creaks when riding out of the saddle, and only when I stand on the pedals or move them with light pressure.
I suspect that neither the included bottom bracket nor the one from Kactus is compatible with a spacer. However, a spacer is necessary to adjust the crank preload.
I've already adjusted the preload several times with different cranks (P515, 105, Ultegra). Unfortunately, after 2-5 minutes it always starts creaking again.
For me, it turned out to be the rear thru-axle.
I had to tighten it really firmly to make the creaking go away.
I also had a direct mount hanger installed at the time, but I have since switched back to the original UDH derailleur hanger, and now it's fine.
Additionally, I swapped the included bottom bracket for a Praxis bottom bracket. It might be worth checking the rear axle torque before going crazy with the bottom bracket spacers!
-
You wrote
Changing cranks changes a lot of things. So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position.
Obviously it changes other aspects of your fit. That has already been mentioned here.
I’m keen to understand how it changes things for the worse ? Or was that a general throw away statement ?
The vast majority of people will be using cleats and clipless pedals so their foot position is fixed. For those using flat pedals, well, they are in the minority and I’m not sure they’d be that interested in the biomechanics of shorter cranks given the limited repeatability of their foot placement, retention and repeatability.
You’ve now said it “obviously changes other aspects of your fit”, which was precisely my point.
Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal circle. If the saddle is left where it is, the foot is 7.5 mm higher at the bottom of the stroke, changing knee extension there. If the saddle is raised to compensate, that increases saddle-to-bar drop and, because the saddle moves up along an angled seat tube, also moves it slightly rearward. That can affect effective reach, torso angle, hand pressure and weight distribution. Depending on the rider and which medical problem they are trying to solve, some of those changes could improve the position and some could make another aspect less comfortable. Hence my carefully chosen word “could”.
Being clipped in fixes the shoe’s attachment point to the pedal; it doesn’t make ankle angle, heel position or the movement of the foot through the stroke irrelevant. And dismissing everyone on flat pedals as a minority who presumably has no interest in bike fit is a rather strange argument and frankly elitist (my wife and daughter use flats).
So no, it wasn’t a throwaway statement. It was a brief internet-forum comment saying that changing one major fit variable can have knock-on effects and should be assessed as part of the whole position. But yes, apparently unless every use of the word “could” is accompanied by a full biomechanics lecture, it means the person knows nothing.
I'm not going to say another thing on the subject as this isn't the thread for it. I'll happily reply to a new thread if you make one to continue the discussion after this.
-
You’ve now said it “obviously changes other aspects of your fit”, which was precisely my point.
Going from 172.5 mm to 165 mm changes the pedal circle. If the saddle is left where it is, the foot is 7.5 mm higher at the bottom of the stroke, changing knee extension there. If the saddle is raised to compensate, that increases saddle-to-bar drop and, because the saddle moves up along an angled seat tube, also moves it slightly rearward. That can affect effective reach, torso angle, hand pressure and weight distribution. Depending on the rider and which medical problem they are trying to solve, some of those changes could improve the position and some could make another aspect less comfortable. Hence my carefully chosen word “could”.
Being clipped in fixes the shoe’s attachment point to the pedal; it doesn’t make ankle angle, heel position or the movement of the foot through the stroke irrelevant. And dismissing everyone on flat pedals as a minority who presumably has no interest in bike fit is a rather strange argument and frankly elitist (my wife and daughter use flats).
So no, it wasn’t a throwaway statement. It was a brief internet-forum comment saying that changing one major fit variable can have knock-on effects and should be assessed as part of the whole position. But yes, apparently unless every use of the word “could” is accompanied by a full biomechanics lecture, it means the person knows nothing.
I'm not going to say another thing on the subject as this isn't the thread for it. I'll happily reply to a new thread if you make one to continue the discussion after this.
As I said. I’m keen to understand how it might change things for the worse?
You’ve written the same thing twice but still not answered this.
Yes I did say obviously changes other aspects of your fit. I mentioned that a few pages ago when the poster asked about shorter cranks. They can’t be changed in isolation. Feel free to read some posts rather than just adding your Chat GPT fluff without having any real understanding of the topic. It doesn’t help anyone and ads to the confusion.
Maybe check out some stretching and exercises it could be the solution to your funky front end 😂 probably a better use of your time and Chat GPT usage.
-
Hi eveybody - I fell into the LightCarbon rabbit hole, and am about to order a LCG072-D soon, so I have spent half of my vacation reading a lot here on Chinertown.
A lot, but surely not everything, and so here is my first question:
Can someone tell me what the weight of the down tube storage door is? It looks to be rather weighty since it is aluminum.
I have the latest version of the door and with bottle cage bolts it is 53g.
I just received my frameset 4 days ago.
-
I have the latest version of the door and with bottle cage bolts it is 53g.
I just received my frameset 4 days ago.
Cool, is that the version 3 door with downwards lever ?
-
Maybe check out some stretching and exercises it could be the solution to your funky front end 😂 probably a better use of your time and Chat GPT usage.
what really makes this forum exhausting from time to time is your constant need to convince everyone that your opinion is the right one. And your habit of putting every careless word under the microscope.
there are many friendly ways to make a point
-
what really makes this forum exhausting from time to time is your constant need to convince everyone that your opinion is the right one. And your habit of putting every careless word under the microscope.
there are many friendly ways to make a point
I almost take this as a compliment from someone as pedantic as yourself. Remember the saddle rails ?
Details matter and many times forums are flooded with incorrect information from people who post “facts” after a brief google, not fully understanding the misinformation they’re posting.
Im not driven by a need to be “right” I’m happy to learn from reliable sources, but I’m also happy to call out BS when I see it.
-
For me, it turned out to be the rear thru-axle.
I had to tighten it really firmly to make the creaking go away.
I also had a direct mount hanger installed at the time, but I have since switched back to the original UDH derailleur hanger, and now it's fine.
Additionally, I swapped the included bottom bracket for a Praxis bottom bracket. It might be worth checking the rear axle torque before going crazy with the bottom bracket spacers!
appreciate this. creaks can be difficult.
when i developed one on my gravel bike, i thought it was my bottom bracket after ruling out the seat, seatpost, and pedals. the shop did too and replaced the bottom bracket, but it didn't solve it. they ultimately tracked it down to the rear derailleur hanger as being slightly loose or some dirt/dust had gotten in between the hanger and frame. they just cleaned it and tightened it up and i was all good.
so agree, cleaning stuff and making sure everything is tightened up to spec before throwing parts at it is a good (and much cheaper) idea.
-
Not everyone uses cleats, so “cleat position” would have been unnecessarily specific.
The Venn diagram of people worrying about crank length and people riding with flat pedals makes for 2 large, round, very nice titties. Meaning, even if you're trying to smush them together (pro move), they still wont be any overlap.
-
The Venn diagram of people worrying about crank length and people riding with flat pedals makes for 2 large, round, very nice titties. Meaning, even if you're trying to smush them together (pro move), they still wont be any overlap.
Wrong thread. Has nothing to do with this frame
-
Got my frame today. Orders on April 4th, add a slight delay for top tube mounts to be added, and again for the bars. Wish I could say it will be built up soon but kids…
-
Got my frame today. Orders on April 4th, add a slight delay for top tube mounts to be added, and again for the bars. Wish I could sat it will be built up soon but kids…
That is long delivery. What is that color called ? Almost looks Mercedes.
-
That is long delivery. What is that color called ? Almost looks Mercedes.
Jim only gave me the swatch identifier which is a very descriptive “YS 2280-1”. I was going after Enve’s agave blue. This is greener than that but I’m not mad about it. And, the lengthy lead time was okay with me since I knew it was going to likely be a fall or winter project.
-
Loving seeing other peoples paint schemes. I've tried to go for a similar scheme to the Giant Defy SL 2026 frame but not sure how it will come out. Quite nervous about it as it's a big part of a bike. Just hoping they can pull it off and understand what I'm asking for!
-
Cool, is that the version 3 door with downwards lever ?
Yes, the locked position for the lever is down. Pull up to release. It has a detent that the lever snaps in for the lock position. Also it has foam strips on the lower section of the lid to prevent vibration. I only have 50 miles on the bike since I finished the build Saturday and so far there are no rattles and nothing has come loose :)
-
Yes, the locked position for the lever is down. Pull up to release. It has a detent that the lever snaps in for the lock position. Also it has foam strips on the lower section of the lid to prevent vibration. I only have 50 miles on the bike since I finished the build Saturday and so far there are no rattles and nothing has come loose :)
Nice 👍🏼
I hope it remains rattle free.
Enjoy your new build
-
Yes, the locked position for the lever is down. Pull up to release. It has a detent that the lever snaps in for the lock position. Also it has foam strips on the lower section of the lid to prevent vibration. I only have 50 miles on the bike since I finished the build Saturday and so far there are no rattles and nothing has come loose :)
It's pretty rock solid. I have a 800 ml fidlock bottle on mine without any issue.
-
Got my frame delivered on Monday - original order date was 10th May so wasnt too bad.
One thing I wanted to check, the parts I got for my headset didnt include the additional washer/spacer that I thought was needed to prevent noise/rubbing. Have the recent deliveries no longer include this?
-
Got my frame delivered on Monday - original order date was 10th May so wasn't too bad.
One thing I wanted to check, the parts I got for my headset didn't include the additional washer/spacer that I thought was needed to prevent noise/rubbing. Have the recent deliveries no longer include this?
min didn't have this either but no issue with it.
-
I have to say, that i didn't got the small washer and just used some sandpaper in the bottom headset cap, because it was rubbing against the frame.
One month later i first saw that there is a washer in some packages from the other users here ;D
-
Got my frame delivered on Monday - original order date was 10th May so wasnt too bad.
One thing I wanted to check, the parts I got for my headset didnt include the additional washer/spacer that I thought was needed to prevent noise/rubbing. Have the recent deliveries no longer include this?
Received mine June 30 and I also didn't get the washer. As it turns out, I didn't need it.
-
Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..
23mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/29mm-width-700c-disc-brake-carbon-road-rims_p262.html
26mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
-
Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..
Go for the 26mm IW, you can easily go down to a 30C if you need to. Some people go even lower
-
Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..
Make your own informed decisions.
I personally run the 28mm GP5000 and 29mm Aero111 on my XMCS with 26 int/33 ext and happy with that.
-
Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..
23mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/29mm-width-700c-disc-brake-carbon-road-rims_p262.html
26mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
Unless you have a specific use case (like being super light), 23mm rims are pretty outdated. between the 2, the 26 should be the default, and the 23 only considered for edge cases, at this point. I'm assuming you're a somewhat average western bloke and all.
-
I'm still waiting on my frame but have ordered XMCS 50mm 26mm wheelset and GP 5000 35c tyres - I just assumed the frame would take it, now I'm wondering if that was a bit optimistic.
-
I'm still waiting on my frame but have ordered XMCS 50mm 26mm wheelset and GP 5000 35c tyres - I just assumed the frame would take it, now I'm wondering if that was a bit optimistic.
no reason it won't.
-
Still on the fence about what IW wheels to get! I've bought 35mm GP5000's but currently have 23mm IW 29mm OW .. So tempted to go to the 26/31.5 OW/IW that LC sell but just worried I may go below 35mm tyre and then struggle to seat a smaller tyre. Going tubeless if that helps anyone push me one way or another..
23mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/29mm-width-700c-disc-brake-carbon-road-rims_p262.html
26mm
https://www.lightcarbon.com/lightcarbon-gravel-rims-widened-26mm-inner-width-700c-carbon-rims-for-gravel-bike_p263.html
confused. you already have a 23mm IW wheelset (that work better with narrower tires) so why would you get a 2nd set? for sure if you plan to run 35mm GP5Ks, the 26mm IW will match up better.
-
confused. you already have a 23mm IW wheelset (that work better with narrower tires) so why would you get a 2nd set? for sure if you plan to run 35mm GP5Ks, the 26mm IW will match up better.
I have them ordered, not in hand, but I checked with Jim and he was happy for me to swap to the larger IW for $20 so I'll do that, thanks all.
-
I have them ordered, not in hand, but I checked with Jim and he was happy for me to swap to the larger IW for $20 so I'll do that, thanks all.
Best 20$ ever spent. It's crazy that when talking to an OEM, it's a 20$ difference, but if you look at Western brands, that's a 3y product release.
-
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?
I read in an earlier comment that the Cycplus AS2 Ultra fits (65x47.5x28mm). My Topump TB2 pro doesn't fit (77×53×32mm). Wondering if Cyclami AM6 Pro (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010155107074.html) will fit because it's ~1/3 of the price of the AS2 Ultra.
Any other suggestions under $100 CAD range?
-
Best 20$ ever spent. It's crazy that when talking to an OEM, it's a 20$ difference, but if you look at Western brands, that's a 3y product release.
I hope so, just back to worrying about if they will pull off the colour scheme now ^_^
Build will now be as follows
LCR018-D - 58cm, 0mm offset and downtube storage, 420/110 bars. Plus two storage bags, two hangers. T47 steel BB, 2 BC205 cages
C53DB Rims (26mm width) 45mm height, CX Ray, brass nipples.
105 Di2 with 165mm cranks
GP5000 35mm AS TR
Excited and nervous! First build, first custom, first custom colour scheme... lots of nerves :)
-
I hope so, just back to worrying about if they will pull off the colour scheme now ^_^
Build will now be as follows
LCR018-D - 58cm, 0mm offset and downtube storage, 420/110 bars. Plus two storage bags, two hangers. T47 steel BB, 2 BC205 cages
C53DB Rims (26mm width) 45mm height, CX Ray, brass nipples.
105 Di2 with 165mm cranks
GP5000 35mm AS TR
Excited and nervous! First build, first custom, first custom colour scheme... lots of nerves :)
Just a suggestion regarding the wheels: given the large frame size, I’d opt for a 50mm profile....it looks much better, and there would be no difference in terms of wind sensitivity. ;)
Did you already have a color scheme in mind?
-
Hi there, i am building my bike today and tomorrow.
Its the firtst bike i build and I have some questions.
The rear brake hose is routed above the bottom bracket? Or do you push it below the bottom bracket?
I cant find information in any video about that.
Edit: Thanks Mario Canario.... clear case of RTFM ;-)
-
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?
I read in an earlier comment that the Cycplus AS2 Ultra fits (65x47.5x28mm). My Topump TB2 pro doesn't fit (77×53×32mm). Wondering if Cyclami AM6 Pro (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010155107074.html) will fit because it's ~1/3 of the price of the AS2 Ultra.
Any other suggestions under $100 CAD range?
I put mine in a small saddle bag along with my multitool.
-
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?
I read in an earlier comment that the Cycplus AS2 Ultra fits (65x47.5x28mm). My Topump TB2 pro doesn't fit (77×53×32mm). Wondering if Cyclami AM6 Pro (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010155107074.html) will fit because it's ~1/3 of the price of the AS2 Ultra.
Any other suggestions under $100 CAD range?
My AS2 ultra is in the small plastic bag they provide, but isnt in the silicone sleeve. I’d Imagine the AM6 would be fine if you remove the silicone sleeve, probably ok with it too but it also depends how many hoses/cables you have running down the down tube and if you’ve used any foam anti rattle sleeve.
I only have a brake hose which I taped to the frame to prevent rattles, but also give me the maximum amount of room possible for an electronic pump.
Oh and swapping the two bottle cage bolts for shorter 10-12mm ones gives some extra hight behind the door for a pump too.
-
The rear brake hose is routed above the bottom bracket? Or do you push it below the bottom bracket?
For the LCR018 i went above. using BB cup & jagwire housing damper.
LC also recommends so, per their website.
have fun building ;D
-
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?
I have the BSCOBBER A5 mini from Ali Express, bought for $25 CAD and currently listed for sub $40 CAD. I leave it in the bike and use only when stuck on the side of the road. Works fine as an emergency pump. I then have a large electric pump I keep with my tools to inflate the tires pre ride.
-
Someone posted on Reddit that LC will supply a Shimano direct mount derailleur hanger if asked. I wish I knew that when I ordered my frame.
Hi there, i am building my bike today and tomorrow.
Its the firtst bike i build and I have some questions.
The rear brake hose is routed above the bottom bracket? Or do you push it below the bottom bracket?
I cant find information in any video about that.
Edit: Thanks Mario Canario.... clear case of RTFM ;-)
Mine ended up above the bottom bracket as well. There quite a bit of room up there.
-
I have the BSCOBBER A5 mini from Ali Express, bought for $25 CAD and currently listed for sub $40 CAD. I leave it in the bike and use only when stuck on the side of the road. Works fine as an emergency pump. I then have a large electric pump I keep with my tools to inflate the tires pre ride.
I see that you also have a crack, paint chip in the upper right corner of the storage. Maybe it's just the quality of the photo, I can't see it clearly. This issue was reported a few pages back.
-
https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9362/bd6f4bbc_jpg.htm
ok, i managed to get this far.
I dont have a torque wrench for:
UDH left thread
Pedal left thread
Bottom Bracket left thread
The bottom bracket has 3 washers/shims in the package.
I meassured the distance wenn it was finally mounted. It is 89mm or 89,2mm.
It should ideally be 88,5mm and the AI says: when running Ultegra Di2 with two by in front, i dont need any shims. Hope thats correct.
Tomorrow
Headset bearing play removal (i will not do the 6Nm. I heard its better to do it by feel)
Straightening the handlebar. Torque it to spec.
Setting the STI´s to desired position. I will not be able to torque them, as i dont have a hex in that lenght for the torque wrench.
Cutting brake hose and installing them with olive and barp.
I will not be able to torque the brakehose-nut. Just completely torque the nut is ok i guess?
Bleeding with kit and Shimano-Oil.
Torque crank set.
Align brakes. Torque brakes.
Installing waxed chain and setting the shifters. (i hope there are some good videos).
I am a bit confused that there is no barps and olives when you buy a Shimano Di2 Groupset.
I ordered 2 parts as sparte part... so there is only one chance to cut them correct tomorrow.
Bartape will be done after a small testride, when STI´s are in a good position.
-
Aerodurance: Olives are already installed in shifters with shimano, behind hose shiffter nut :) so be careful so you dont install two olives, I have seen it done :).
-
Aerodurance: Olives are already installed in shifters with shimano, behind hose shiffter nut :) so be careful so you dont install two olives, I have seen it done :).
Yeah they need a big orange warning sticker for this!
-
I was super lucky to order some spare barbs and olives, otherwise I couldn't have finished it today.
I don't get that.
Nobody buying this Ultegra groupset for 1200€ will be able to mount it if they don't order two barbs for an extra 3–4€.
That's beyond stupid.
Anyway, I have the bike together.
I will test-ride it and then put on the bar tape if the STIs are in a good position.
What is the torque for the seatpost bolts, holding the saddle?
I used 5Nm because i could not find it.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260801/temp/5muvqcvy.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9363/5muvqcvy_png.htm)
Here is what i made for myself. I will not remember all and some torques are not printed on the parts.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260801/temp/nv55j8xs.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9363/nv55j8xs_jpg.htm)
Here is the bike so far. Handle bar tape is missing.
7,85kg, size 540
-
Aerodurance barb are installed in hoses also it is ready to go, you just can not cut the hoses to lenght :), you can very carefully cut the barb from hoses after you cut them. Yeah I dont know why they are doing this and it is just stupid, but sram will ship you calipers and shifters connected together that is more work for factory and more work for mechanic and you need to buy olives and barbers also so there is no win with this :)
PS: those yellow valve caps are straight to a jail from me :) otherwise build looks pretty cool. Just a little tip you can with a bit of aceton on a rag easily remove those pink logos on ridenow tubes.
-
I guess the reason is, the hoses are filled with oil and the barbs are closed with... i dont know, silicone or so.
Its made so that the oil stays inside.
BUT, that doesnt make sense because you have to cut them and you have to bleed them anyway.... so why putting oil in them? Its plastic. It will not rust anyways.
So they could just send you empty hoses and single barbs. It is stupid.
Do you know what torque to use on the seat clamps?
-
Aerodurance I did not torque it to a specific torque just by feel and to my perfectly calibrated hand :) it felt like maybe 7-8N-m.
I did put however a bit of carbon paste between aluminium lower saddle clamp and carbon seatpost and absolutely no problems so far.
-
2.5 mm can be swallowed just by the small amount of slack in your shoes. The cleat can effectively move back or forth more than that - which is the same for everyone, but puts it into perspective.
If you want change, you need to make change. 5mm will not make much of an effective difference, so I’d be willing to bet any felt “benefit” is placebo rather than mechanical or physical.
I built a bike for a friend of mine who was having some fit issues. I swapped him from a 175mm to a 165mm and he didn’t notice the shorter length, but he noticed his hip muscles weren’t as tight anymore.
Currently swapping all his bikes to 165 as the cranks become available
I don't agree to the statement that 5mm are not feelable.
Maybe not for you.
I could spot a difference when I changed an older bike from 172.5 to 170. Even if it sounds so small, my knees felt much better .
I sometimes would like to be less sensitive. But just if you can't spot it that doesn't make it to 100% truth for everyone
-
another ride report.
the front end is definitely on the stiffer side compared to the rear. on today's ride, hit a few cracks in the road hard and it was jarring (31mm wam front tire @ 57psi) on the wrists while much more muted in the back (32mm wam @ 57psi), in the saddle. not sure how much of that is from the frame, fork or bar. it's not terrible but given how comfortable the back is, it's just an observed contrast.
loving the bike though... more PRs, especially descending and the flats.
-
Hi everyone,
I recently experienced a front-end wobble once while descending at over 60 km/h with a slight crosswind. It was quite scary, but gently applying the rear brake stopped the oscillation.
My setup is:
LCR-018, size 56
50 mm wheels
32 mm tyres
I checked the headset carefully and there is no play in any direction.
I know that a few other members have experienced a similar issue. Did you manage to identify the cause, and what solution worked for you? Was it related to the headset, wheel or tyre setup, wheel depth, spoke tension, or rider position?
Thanks for your advice.
-
Your messages are starting to scare me, haha. I'm starting to have second thoughts about getting the Elves Mori Aerox x).
-
Hi everyone,
I recently experienced a front-end wobble once while descending at over 60 km/h with a slight crosswind. It was quite scary, but gently applying the rear brake stopped the oscillation.
My setup is:
LCR-018, size 56
50 mm wheels
32 mm tyres
I checked the headset carefully and there is no play in any direction.
I know that a few other members have experienced a similar issue. Did you manage to identify the cause, and what solution worked for you? Was it related to the headset, wheel or tyre setup, wheel depth, spoke tension, or rider position?
Thanks for your advice.
I've always figured wobbles are a wheels issue, not a frame issue. Maybe remove the spoke stickers? 8)
-
Your messages are starting to scare me, haha. I'm starting to have second thoughts about getting the Elves Mori Aerox x).
Any chance that you could still cancel your order and get the Elves, it could mean one less frame order in front of mine - lol.
-
I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats ;D
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.
I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/5mhhu9og.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/5mhhu9og_jpg.htm)
I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/i7bdbvf6.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/i7bdbvf6_jpg.htm)
Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.
-
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/5mhhu9og.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/5mhhu9og_jpg.htm)
you just tuck it in. no issues with mine
-
I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats ;D
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.
I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/5mhhu9og.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/5mhhu9og_jpg.htm)
I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/i7bdbvf6.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/i7bdbvf6_jpg.htm)
Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.
Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.
After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.
It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?
Did shortening the seatpost help?
-
I thought you leave the spoke stickers on like kids do on their caps and hats ;D
I had my first testride yesterday. Did only 20km and only 57kmh max, because of course i wanted to test the brakes and brake them in.
I had a rattling noise comming somewhere from the frame. I found 3 things.
1.) My Ali-Express Carbon bottle holders are super stiff. They might start vibrating when driving over street cracks. I rode with only 1 botlle. will take 2 bottles on next ride.
2.) My RideNow TPU inner tube valve is rattling against the Elitewheehls Edge 1.0 50mm rim. I did never experience that in 3000km on my Radon bike before. I put a O-Ring on it. I am quite sure i have a sticker at the valve on the rim inside. Maybe it wore out ?
3.) There is a ?knob? on the end of the zipper of the frame back. If that lays on the frame and gets bounced arround, it makes strong noises. I removed the ?zipper-thingy? first, found out about the noise the knob thning can still make and the put on my left over dampening foam around it. Is that overkill? Hell yeah!
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/5mhhu9og.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/5mhhu9og_jpg.htm)
I had also that clicking noise when giving load to the paddles outside the saddle. I guess at 400-500 Watts i have the clicking.
I cut away 60mm of the seat tube.
I also tried Iso-Tape, but then i would have to insert the seat post with extrem force into the frame because it doesnt really fit.
Removed the tape, added additional Dynamic carbon paste to seatpost and frame.... hoping for the best.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260803/temp/i7bdbvf6.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9365/i7bdbvf6_jpg.htm)
Does anyone have the shape of the seatpost as DXF or so?
I want to print a Garmin Radarmount for this seatpost.
How come you decided to cut your seat post? Judging by your build photo, your seatpost is not really that far in. How far in is it now?
-
I am absolutely loving this build. Fantastic frame and bars from LC.
-
How come you decided to cut your seat post? Judging by your build photo, your seatpost is not really that far in. How far in is it now?
My seat post is nearly fully inserted, up until the anti slip coating stops.
Its squishing the DI2 cables unnecessarrily.
I meassured the distance were the seat post says "minimum insert". Thats 103mm.
I cut of 60mm and still have insertion of lots over 100mm.
Other people here reported a clicking sound whilst higher loads. I had the same on the first ride.
I hope the clicking is away now. Didn´t ride today.
I also contacted the suppliper for seat torque. They say 9-10Nm.
Unfortunately I have now all torques besides the Garmin-Holder for the handle bar. Anyone knows ?
I guess around 3-4Nm.
I run the cheap bottom bracket from LC.
If i replace it, i will go for the Rotor one i guess. Unfortunately shimano doesn´t do one.
I would trust shimano and pay for it, but there is none.
-
Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.
After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.
It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?
Did shortening the seatpost help?
Had same issue with squeking on another bike. Went away after I removed and re-inserted cranks - hit drive side a bit harder and more pre-load. My creaking was right side only. Pm500 cranks.
-
I've always figured wobbles are a wheels issue, not a frame issue. Maybe remove the spoke sticker? 8)
Good catch! I’ll remove the stickers. 😉
I also realised that my Continental GP 4-Season tyres are not Tubeless Ready, even though I’ve been running them tubeless. So I’ll remove them, clean everything up, install TPU tubes, and see whether that improves anything.
-
Some thoughts about my my speed whobbles:
Without loads the bike handles very well, not whobbling even at top speeds over 90kph, very good and predictable steering, fast in twisties, no big issue with side wind.
I’m running a front dynamo hub so there is a bit of weight in the front wheel. The wheels are built by me, very true, very even spoketension, running since 25kKM
The whobbling only appeared with the Tailfin which is a common and known problem. Also I’m using the longer arch since I use the Tailfin also on my dropper Seatpost bike. The weight is even more in the back. Next time I’m using the Tailfin I will try some weight distribution to the front with a little bar roll. Also a little more preload may solve the problem.
I will report back.
Did you do any more running with the tailfin? I haven't got my LCR018-D yet, but would be interested to know how it rides with the tailfin.
-
Hi community, I’m afraid I still need your help. I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.
After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
Any help would be appreciated.
It seems to be a similar problem to the Aerodurance, doesn't it?
Did shortening the seatpost help?
probably got some dirt somewhere or bearings are aren't good (pedals)
-
I am absolutely loving this build. Fantastic frame and bars from LC.
supper nice - was going to go for the red crystal but cost, time to paint and I like the murdered out look made me keep with the unpainted.
-
Good catch! I’ll remove the stickers. 😉
I also realised that my Continental GP 4-Season tyres are not Tubeless Ready, even though I’ve been running them tubeless. So I’ll remove them, clean everything up, install TPU tubes, and see whether that improves anything.
why?
-
Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.
My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost. In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand. Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?
-
Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.
My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost. In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand. Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?
Yes still safest as I'd the worst happened you only break a seatpost rather than a frame.
-
My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost. In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand. Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?
A seatpost is cheaper than a frame.
I have been using a stand with a very lose clamp on the upper tube for years, the problem is people crushing the tube.
Same goes for seatpost tube. The clamp should form an oversized tube, and the top to the seatpost/saddle should stop it from sliding further down.
That said, I have 2 split hooks I can use in my carport to hang it up. Local bike mechanic uses same system.
-
Thanks for the replies, makes sense to clamp on the seatpost. I’ve also ordered both offset and zero offset post so will have a spare in the worse scenario.
One more question about the headset assembly, does the bottom headset just has only the bearing directly in between fork and frame and nothing else?
Then on top headset part is the order of: bearing, inner black metal ring, outer black plastic ring, spacers and expander plug (in the fork)?
-
Thanks for the replies, makes sense to clamp on the seatpost. I’ve also ordered both offset and zero offset post so will have a spare in the worse scenario.
One more question about the headset assembly, does the bottom headset just has only the bearing directly in between fork and frame and nothing else?
Then on top headset part is the order of: bearing, inner black metal ring, outer black plastic ring, spacers and expander plug (in the fork)?
yes the bearings just drop in (grease liberally). and yes re: the order of the other parts.
-
Thanks for the replies, makes sense to clamp on the seatpost. I’ve also ordered both offset and zero offset post so will have a spare in the worse scenario.
One more question about the headset assembly, does the bottom headset just has only the bearing directly in between fork and frame and nothing else?
Then on top headset part is the order of: bearing, inner black metal ring, outer black plastic ring, spacers and expander plug (in the fork)?
Can I ask what headset/handlebar it is?
So, is the "crown" ring made of metal?
I've usually only ever seen it made of plastic.
Thanks
-
Gonna start putting my frame together this weekend.
My previous bike was carbon frame but with alloy seatpost, so the LCR018 is my first bike with a carbon seatpost. In the past I've clamped around the seatpost when mounting on a bike stand. Is it still ok to do this with a carbon seatpost?
you're fairly safe clamping an aero carbon seatpost if the clamping force is in the same plane as the seatpost clamp (ie. have the jaws of the workstand clamp the front and rear of seatpost, instead of the thin sides).
but yes, those hirobel clamps that retrofit onto workstands that disperses the loads towards the ends of the top tube where it's strongest, is probably the safest way to go.
-
Started my build tonight by stripping my 105 di2 groupset from my old bike that I’ll be using in the lcr018. Hopefully get cracking on it this weekend.
One question I trialled fitting the rear derailleur hanger, does this look to be the correct orientation for it? The frame doesn’t appear to be moulded for it but this seems to be the logical placement but would be good if someone can confirm, thanks.
-
pandaman: hanger looks good in correct position, that is why there that knob on frame is, as a stop for hanger rotation, you just rotate hanger on to that knob and tighten, job done :).
-
https://imgur.com/a/hDMG9xS
Am I missing something here.
I have lower bearing bevel up and the upper bearing bevel down. Then when I put the fork thru along with other two components. There is a small gap. As as shown in the image.
I just want to make sure I am not missing something. I did wonder if the two bearings are different sizes.
Thank you for any help.
-
The 2 bearings are the same size. You've got the directions of the outer bevels of the bearings correct. There should be a gap between the frame and dust cap which will get smaller when you compress everything down. Your uncompressed gap does look a tad big though. Make sure everything is properly seated and that your compression ring, i.e., the first thing that goes on the top bearing, is the right way up. One side of the ring is beveled to fit into the internal bevel of the bearing.
-
https://imgur.com/a/hDMG9xS
Am I missing something here.
Is the pin of the plastic part inserted in the metall part? Might not be. Try pushing it in whilst turning the plastik part.
-
I haven’t ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.
Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels strangely nice and surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.
Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or durable.
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.
I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.
The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.
The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but forr me, it didn't work out of the box.
Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.
The frame is nicely made and the painting is incredible for that price.
The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
I would order again but ask for more standard axles and holes.
-
I am waiting for my LCR018-D frame, but I can comment on your situation from my own research and experience on other bikes.
I think what you describe is called "speed wobble", which I researched for a friend before I experienced it myself. It is scary as hell, but it can be managed. First, I would say that the wobble itself is not necessarily a result of the frame tube shapes or wheel depth exclusively. Both can contribute to drift, and that must be compensated for. However, speed wobble is primarily the result of the front wheel being lifted to the extent that the front end is no longer digging into the road. It can happen if you are flying down hill and decide to sit up and use your body as a parachute (don't try it). I have noticed that this happens only at my fastest downhill speeds, and you really need to pay attention to this to stop it from happening before it becomes unmanageable. At first the bike starts to lose direct control, which can lead to a slow and then a more rapid oscillation. First, you need to get in a low forward tuck and start to brake gently, which will move your weight forward. If that does not work, stay low, and shift your weight back. Keep your pedals to 3 and 9 O'clock (or 90 and 270 degrees) and lean the top tube of your bike into the more rearward thigh. The key is to be moving more weight onto the front wheel while dampening the oscillation with your body. In extreme winds or in places you anticipate wind (I know my tricky spots), you can lean the bike heavily to one side and shift your body weight to the other side, with the top tube resting on your leg. For example, I lean the bike right, touch the top tube to my right rear thigh, but lean my body to the left. This keeps the bike moving straight ahead. You can practice at low speed and no wind.
The worst case I had was with Specialized Roubaix (not particularly aero) with 40 mm deep wheels. It was a fast downhill that led to a section of strong crosswinds that I did not know about. The wobble was so severe that I thought I had a flat front tire. Very scary! However, after I came to a complete stop, everything was normal. Once, and only once, did I have my rear wheel pushed an inch or two sideways after turning a curve into a strong crosswind. It was on an aero Kestrel Talon frame with shallow wheels. It was over in a second and was not a classic wobble, so not as scary.
Hi everyone,
I recently experienced a front-end wobble once while descending at over 60 km/h with a slight crosswind. It was quite scary, but gently applying the rear brake stopped the oscillation.
My setup is:
LCR-018, size 56
50 mm wheels
32 mm tyres
I checked the headset carefully and there is no play in any direction.
I know that a few other members have experienced a similar issue. Did you manage to identify the cause, and what solution worked for you? Was it related to the headset, wheel or tyre setup, wheel depth, spoke tension, or rider position?
Thanks for your advice.
-
I haven’t ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.
Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels a bit strange at first, but it is surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.
Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or look good.
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all.
I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 9 Nm, hoping it stays put this time.
The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either. I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should stop producing these immediately and switch to a more standardized solution.
On top of that, the internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to quiet it down, which is something that should have been sorted out straight from the factory.
For me, it simply didn't work out of the box.
Finally, the bike is twice or even three times as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1.
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with a 30 to 40mm depth.
The frame is nice, painting is incredible for that price. The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
Couple of really crazy claims mixed in here.
I’ve been riding this frame for over 5000km now and it’s been crazy good, and I’ve had a lot of very nice bikes.
Very curious on your comment about the thru axles. They look absolutely fine to me and never given a problem - would love to know why you think they’ll fail.
On the crosswind/aero issue - I’m not sure what you’re used to, but this frame is absolutely no worse than any bike I’ve had before - TCR/SL6/Aeroad for example. I’m used to a lot of gusty winds here in Ireland and this bike is as planted as I could ever hope for.
Prices have gone up, but they were giving this bike away in my opinion.
The aftersales service has been excellent and they continue to develop and iterate on problems that have been found. I can’t wait to be able to afford the LCR020 - the frames these guys are coming out with put the western bike market to shame in terms of performance and value.
-
My computer mount snapped when I rolled over a small bump during my ride this morning. Has anyone found an alternative mount that fits the three bolt mount on the hbr17 bars? Hoping to find something more durable than the stock mount and less expensive than the ti version.
I use a karoo 3 and it was attached to the bar via leash, so no damage to the computer thankfully.
-
I finished my build yesterday. Sorry to bring up the topic again but here is the total play between my frame and the bottom plastic spacer. A bit more than a mm. The fork is preloaded as I did tighten the top cap bolt to around 2 Nm. I was not given the plastic shim like I have seen on some build. Do you think that acceptable ?
-
My computer mount snapped when I rolled over a small bump during my ride this morning. Has anyone found an alternative mount that fits the three bolt mount on the hbr17 bars? Hoping to find something more durable than the stock mount and less expensive than the ti version.
I use a karoo 3 and it was attached to the bar via leash, so no damage to the computer thankfully.
sorry to hear. how much is light carbon charging for the titanium mount now?
when i bought my LCR018 in april, it was only $10 and they still included the plastic one too. i'm sure there may be a shipping charge too.
if you have a friend with access to a 3D printer, forum member @kroser has a file you can use to print yourself a new mount.
-
agree di2 is nice. fast and never misses. i have to still be careful not to crank too hard during a shift, forgetting that's still not ideal, whether mechanical or electronic.
curious what about the bottom bracket install doesn't feel "durable" or "right"? was the surface not flat or faced?
re: seatpost, yeah pretty much everyone's agreed it's ok to add a couple extra NM torque to keep it from slipping. i did that from day 1 so no issues.
re: the storage cover, yeah, i also added a bit of extra stereo wire tape to the edges of the cover, as someone else suggested, just for a snugger fit and less rattling risk. probably more noticeable depending on the riding surfaces you're on and why some folks report no noise/rattle and others still have issues. roads here in california are pretty bad.
re: crosswinds, for some of folks with issues with the LCR in cross winds, i'm wondering if the LCR018 might be their 1st aero bike. i remember riding my first triathlon bike decades ago, with it's deep frame profile and running deep aero wheels, it was jarring when i got hit with the first in cross wind (especially in aero bars). granted that was back with V-shaped 60mm deep rims, but the LCR with modern U-shaped 50mm wheels has been great for me. i'm also 82kg so can tolerate it a lot more. if you're going from round tubes with low profile rims, to aero bike with 50-60mm deep wheels and you're light, then, yeah, it's going to be an adjustment. going down to 40mm at least for the front, might make sense is you're riding in windy conditions often. you won't lose that much in aero and gain back a lot in confidence. but if it's not windy all the time, give it some time and i think you'll adjust.
my other road bike, while carbon, isn't particularly aero shaped and has 30mm carbon rims, so i wanted a contrast by getting the LCR with 50mm rims. it'd feel silly to me, to spec my aero frame with a 30mm wheels.
I haven’t ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.
Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels strangely nice and surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.
Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or durable.
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.
I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.
The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.
The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but forr me, it didn't work out of the box.
Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.
The frame is nicely made and the painting is incredible for that price.
The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
I would order again but ask for more standard axles and holes.
-
sorry to hear. how much is light carbon charging for the titanium mount now?
when i bought my LCR018 in april, it was only $10 and they still included the plastic one too. i'm sure there may be a shipping charge too.
if you have a friend with access to a 3D printer, forum member @kroser has a file you can use to print yourself a new mount.
I am waiting on a response from Jim on current pricing on the ti mount. I remember seeing the file for the 3d print, so I may have to look into getting it printed since I don't have access to a printer myself. Thankfully I did order an extra mount when I ordered the frame so I am not yet sol.
-
Does anyone have a solution for testing the bike with spacers on top of the stem? I want to test different spacers before I cut the fork. 3D print "above the stem spacers" of 5 and 10mm?
-
Does anyone have a solution for testing the bike with spacers on top of the stem? I want to test different spacers before I cut the fork. 3D print "above the stem spacers" of 5 and 10mm?
Just install standard 1 1/8" spacers and a standard, round top cap above stem.
-
I am waiting on a response from Jim on current pricing on the ti mount. I remember seeing the file for the 3d print, so I may have to look into getting it printed since I don't have access to a printer myself. Thankfully I did order an extra mount when I ordered the frame so I am not yet sol.
Including Paypal fee I added the ti Garmin mount for $51
-
I finished my build yesterday. Sorry to bring up the topic again but here is the total play between my frame and the bottom plastic spacer. A bit more than a mm. The fork is preloaded as I did tighten the top cap bolt to around 2 Nm. I was not given the plastic shim like I have seen on some build. Do you think that acceptable ?
https://imgur.com/a/hDMG9xS
Am I missing something here.
I have lower bearing bevel up and the upper bearing bevel down. Then when I put the fork thru along with other two components. There is a small gap. As as shown in the image.
I just want to make sure I am not missing something. I did wonder if the two bearings are different sizes.
Thank you for any help.
I started my build over the weekend and managed to get my headset bits all assembled and cut my fork. I would say my headtube to plastic cover gap is similar to you folks, was surprisingly larger than I thought and I tripled check it all to make sure before I cut my tube tube but looks to be right.
My delivery didnt come with a 0.7mm spacer that they were previously shipping to alleviate some rubbing issues. I had posted about this when I got my frame last week and seems the latest deliveries no longer get this spacer. I am wondering if they have made some adjustment in the latest deliveries (maybe shortening the plastic cover or increasing the thickness of the metal ring) to accommodate a larger clearance.
My only worry is the larger clearance allowing water to ingress and potentially ruining the bearings.
-
Any suggestions on electric pumps that will fit in internal storage?
I read in an earlier comment that the Cycplus AS2 Ultra fits (65x47.5x28mm). My Topump TB2 pro doesn't fit (77×53×32mm). Wondering if Cyclami AM6 Pro (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010155107074.html) will fit because it's ~1/3 of the price of the AS2 Ultra.
Any other suggestions under $100 CAD range?
To update this - I went with the Cyclami A2S Alloy (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007416766738.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.47.5a011802W3cOEb), and it fits in the downtube storage with the silicone sleeve on and nozzle off. I may get shorter bottle cage screws to save a little space because it's tight currently. I can report back once I have some experience using it more
-
Does anyone have a solution for testing the bike with spacers on top of the stem? I want to test different spacers before I cut the fork. 3D print "above the stem spacers" of 5 and 10mm?
A user earlier in the thread created a 5mm 3D print spacer for above the bar, due to the angle. I have been running it since building the bike and it works great. I originally cut the steer tube to work with all the spacers and slowly been working down as I dial fit. The 3D spacer plus generic round on top with a round cap have worked great.
-
123
I dont like fullquotes so just for info its a reply to your post.
The through axles were already damaged by a guy in a german forum.
I agree that they somehow feel soft. The paint of the threads was immediately gone (thats why i am a bit nervous about them. I often take the wheel of when i travel with the bike in the car).
I didn´t have that on my Newman axles on my Radon/Cube bike.
Finding a new axle for that cone is harder than for a standard axle. Not sure why you would choose such an axle.
The LCR18 is my first Aerobike. I had a Radon R1 with aero bars and the Elite-Wheels Edge 1.0 50mm before.
I just switched the frame and it feels very different.
I also switched from 400mm handlebars on the R1 to 380mm on the LCR18.
Yes that is a reason, but its not proportional to the higher forces.
Its ok, i can live with it, but its way more then i expected.
Rattling on the cover is now gone.
For the BB thing: I guess its not a frame but a systemical issue (or a issue of that specific BB).
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/temp/ioq6rjlt.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9372/ioq6rjlt_png.htm)
Look at how the nut is diggin into the frame. That should not be if you ask me.
It is the standard BB that LC includes. Maybe others are better, but this one.... i dont want to install it 3-4 times.
-
Hey guys,
Lurking around in this topic for a while, as i have LCR018-D on my wishlist for next bike.
I am currently in ordering phase and doing some details with their staff over e-mail.
Just interested can anyone suggest about size 54 or 56 as currently i am on Focus Culebro SL 2.0 2014(i think this is model 99% sure) and recently had a bike fit with my current bike.
According to his bike fit my reach to handlebar is 495mm and stack is 575mm and i have 655 mm height to handlebars (80 mm stacked with spacers) - i measured stack and total height so could be up n down a bit.
Saddle height is 785 mm so just interested no idea if i'm missing smth with size 54 with saddle height also.
Right now i have it size 54 with 100mm stem and 8mm added stack (according to their specs in mail).
It is shorter in height but i assume relaxed geometry will give similar position or should i just go size 56 to have more flexibility in height and reach is very similar.
I am 185 mm height with shorter legs and inseam of 81 mm (longer torso and shorter legs).
First bike i bought was 2 big for me (bike fitter shortened my stem from 110 mm to 60 mm) so just scared about going 2 big again.
Thanks for help.
-
Hey guys,
Lurking around in this topic for a while, as i have LCR018-D on my wishlist for next bike.
I am currently in ordering phase and doing some details with their staff over e-mail.
Just interested can anyone suggest about size 54 or 56 as currently i am on Focus Culebro SL 2.0 2014(i think this is model 99% sure) and recently had a bike fit with my current bike.
According to his bike fit my reach to handlebar is 495mm and stack is 575mm and i have 655 mm height to handlebars (80 mm stacked with spacers) - i measured stack and total height so could be up n down a bit.
Saddle height is 785 mm so just interested no idea if i'm missing smth with size 54 with saddle height also.
Right now i have it size 54 with 100mm stem and 8mm added stack (according to their specs in mail).
It is shorter in height but i assume relaxed geometry will give similar position or should i just go size 56 to have more flexibility in height and reach is very similar.
I am 185 mm height with shorter legs and inseam of 81 mm (longer torso and shorter legs).
First bike i bought was 2 big for me (bike fitter shortened my stem from 110 mm to 60 mm) so just scared about going 2 big again.
Thanks for help.
my money is on 56. do spend time figuring out the cockpit size to order though, because buying a different one and swapping it is costly and very time consuming and incredibly irritating.
-
I haven’t ridden it much yet—only about 50 to 70 km so far.
Moving from my trusty old mechanical 105 to the Ultegra Di2 feels strangely nice and surprisingly good.
I absolutely love it.
Don't get me wrong, my 11-speed 105 setup is excellent; it shifts crisp and clean, but it is nowhere near as quiet and smooth as the Ultegra.
Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or durable.
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.
I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.
The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.
The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but forr me, it didn't work out of the box.
Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.
The frame is nicely made and the painting is incredible for that price.
The storage and the things they ship it with are super.
There are lot of good things, but its only fair to tell the complete story, with all its downsides as well, for people considering buying it.
I heard they also raised prices.
I would order again but ask for more standard axles and holes.
The Gineyea T-47 BB that LC sent me had some sharp edges on the flanges. I filed them down before installation.
I can't say I had any of the other problems that you mentioned. I got Ultegra disk brake calipers to center on the rotors without any fuss. After 240 kms and a modest amount of Silca carbon paste, my seat post is holding steady at 6.5 Nm without slipping. The conical head thru-axle design is used by Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Colnago, etc. What specific problems with LC thru-axles have you heard?
My one complaint is the design of the seat post. There doesn't seem to be any way to get a torque wrench to reach the saddle mount bolts.
-
This is my head tube to dust cover gap (looks to be approx 1.5mm) which appears similar to the previous couple of posters and seems larger than expected. This is with the top handlebar cover torqued down to 6Nm and there’s no free play at all. Can any other builders confirm if this is normal and if it’s something’s to worry about?
-
This is my head tube to dust cover gap (looks to be approx 1.5mm) which appears similar to the previous couple of posters and seems larger than expected. This is with the top handlebar cover torqued down to 6Nm and there’s no free play at all. Can any other builders confirm if this is normal and if it’s something’s to worry about?
Was there any play before? 6 nm is a lot for a top cap. The spacing looks large, though I don't think it's a big problem.
-
Was there any play before? 6 nm is a lot for a top cap. The spacing looks large, though I don't think it's a big problem.
No play at all and everything is lined up correctly. The 6Nm figure is whats stated as the required torque in the Lightcarbon instruction sheet.
Like some of the other posters in the previous couple of pages, the gap seems larger than expected. I'm thinking the metal ring that sits above the bearing has been thickened to ensure the cover doesnt rub against the headtube which some have experienced in the early builds.
-
why?
I actually asked myself the same question when I changed the setup. My thought was that, since the GP 4-Season is not designed for tubeless use, the tyre might not have been sitting properly on the rim and could perhaps have contributed to the instability.
I also noticed that the compression plug and some of the screws were not tightened to the specified torque anymore. After re-tightening everything, the front end feels noticeably stiffer and the situation seems improved.
That said, I haven’t yet trusted myself to go above 60 km/h again, so I can’t say for sure that the issue is completely solved.
-
I actually asked myself the same question when I changed the setup. My thought was that, since the GP 4-Season is not designed for tubeless use, the tyre might not have been sitting properly on the rim and could perhaps have contributed to the instability.
I also noticed that the compression plug and some of the screws were not tightened to the specified torque anymore. After re-tightening everything, the front end feels noticeably stiffer and the situation seems improved.
That said, I haven’t yet trusted myself to go above 60 km/h again, so I can’t say for sure that the issue is completely solved.
hi flo, from the looks of your pictures and valves, i assume you ride tubeless?
i highly recommend balancing the wheels. big difference. tubeless valves are around 20 - 25g. even with tpu i balance wheels.
standard procedure on cars, noone does it on bikes
-
hi flo, from the looks of your pictures and valves, i assume you ride tubeless?
i highly recommend balancing the wheels. big difference. tubeless valves are around 20 - 25g. even with tpu i balance wheels.
standard procedure on cars, noone does it on bikes
Thanks for the tip. What do you use to balance the wheel?
-
I started my build over the weekend and managed to get my headset bits all assembled and cut my fork. I would say my headtube to plastic cover gap is similar to you folks, was surprisingly larger than I thought and I tripled check it all to make sure before I cut my tube tube but looks to be right.
My delivery didnt come with a 0.7mm spacer that they were previously shipping to alleviate some rubbing issues. I had posted about this when I got my frame last week and seems the latest deliveries no longer get this spacer. I am wondering if they have made some adjustment in the latest deliveries (maybe shortening the plastic cover or increasing the thickness of the metal ring) to accommodate a larger clearance.
My only worry is the larger clearance allowing water to ingress and potentially ruining the bearings.
No 0.7mm spacer here either, arrived today. And I do have space as well, this is with some extra pressure holding it down.
And the uncovered 2mm behind the stack looks like designed to attract water and dirt. Not sure if that hole has alway been there ? Just got the bike
-
Thanks for the tip. What do you use to balance the wheel?
i use some 5g lead strips from amazon. easy to apply
but i guess anything lead made for tennis rackets or golf clubs will do
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
I think they are overwhelmed with orders for the LCR018-D due to its success. I ordered back in 10th May and received my frame on the 27 July so that was just over 11 weeks and that included custom painting and also a delay in getting my handlebar instock. I did set myself an expectation that it would take a while based on feedback here so wasnt too worried if it took longer than expected.
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
i ordered an LCR018 in size 50 on 28.05.2026 and received it today. central europe. if that allows for delivery extrapolation.
on 22.07 i received notice from wendy that they are out of any HBR17 in 380mm width. ordered 360mm instead.
in general they are very friendly and try to make things right for u. i would just ask when u can expect delivery
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
This was my experience as well, cancelled my order. And bought a Velobuild VBR368 which was shipped the next day, because they had ud glossy in stock.
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
I ordered 2x 58cm matte raw carbon frames for me and my brother back in last half of May, they got shipped on Friday just gone (7th July) - with the caveat that they didn't have one of the handlebar sizes i requested at the beginning. Disappointing but glad they're finally shipping - can't wait to get it.
-
This was my experience as well, cancelled my order. And bought a Velobuild VBR368 which was shipped the next day, because they had ud glossy in stock.
I was tempted getting the VBR368 before but opted for the LCR018 instead for the aero-endurance geo. It also would not make sense to get a similar geo (current bike: Java Fuoco size 51) and expecting better/different handling.
-
i ordered an LCR018 in size 50 on 28.05.2026 and received it today. central europe. if that allows for delivery extrapolation.
on 22.07 i received notice from wendy that they are out of any HBR17 in 380mm width. ordered 360mm instead.
in general they are very friendly and try to make things right for u. i would just ask when u can expect delivery
This processing timeline matches/exceeds what LC promised, 30-40 days production and 15 days shipping, which total is around 52 business days.
It makes little sense for my order to take 62 business days just for production! (including Chinese but excluding Ontario holidays)
-
Anybody waiting for their shipment of LCR018-D?
I ordered on Jun 23, Wendy told me it'll take about 30-45 business days. I emailed Wendy hoping for the frame to be ready and shipped by mid-August but alas, she said the production would probably be done by September 15-20, that's 22 days delay!!!.
I am very disappointed in that regard, along with the lack of updates whenever production timeline changes.
For context: I ordered a size 50 raw glossy carbon no logo, with 38x120mm. No fancy stuff like custom painting, which inevitably would take "more" time, hence me not opting for any paint.
I dont know what goes in their factory or if they're having carbon supply issues but I am very dissatisfied with Lightcarbon. I was hoping to build up this frame throughout the summer...
45 business days is more than 2 months. You have not reached that. Mine shipped around the 2 month mark as promised.
-
Hey guys,
Lurking around in this topic for a while, as i have LCR018-D on my wishlist for next bike.
I am currently in ordering phase and doing some details with their staff over e-mail.
Just interested can anyone suggest about size 54 or 56 as currently i am on Focus Culebro SL 2.0 2014(i think this is model 99% sure) and recently had a bike fit with my current bike.
According to his bike fit my reach to handlebar is 495mm and stack is 575mm and i have 655 mm height to handlebars (80 mm stacked with spacers) - i measured stack and total height so could be up n down a bit.
Saddle height is 785 mm so just interested no idea if i'm missing smth with size 54 with saddle height also.
Right now i have it size 54 with 100mm stem and 8mm added stack (according to their specs in mail).
It is shorter in height but i assume relaxed geometry will give similar position or should i just go size 56 to have more flexibility in height and reach is very similar.
I am 185 mm height with shorter legs and inseam of 81 mm (longer torso and shorter legs).
First bike i bought was 2 big for me (bike fitter shortened my stem from 110 mm to 60 mm) so just scared about going 2 big again.
Thanks for help.
So looking at this HBR17 handlebar also is a riser bar for 8mm.
Looking at handlebar schematics it is 37 mm high and with 70mm for spacers + lower and upper cap it does come to 664 mm which is more then enough height for me.
I did send enquiry to Wendy from Lightcarbon to check these numbers, if it's lower i will go size 56 i guess.
-
45 business days is more than 2 months. You have not reached that. Mine shipped around the 2 month mark as promised.
You're right 45 days is approximately 2 months, but as per my last inquiry to Wendy, it totals to around 62 business days (i.e. almost a month of delay in production).
I asked why thats the case, still waiting for a hopefully informative reply.
-
Seat post length - is it normal to cut it shorter ?
I am 176cm with slightly shorter than average legs, got size 52. The saddle seems to be 10-15mm above what I have on my way too large bike, and it is almost all the way down. I can feel mushiness from the gear power cables.
80cm inseam and 176cm height
BTW: mine was paid May 23rd. Delivered yesterday to Denmark. Got tracking number July 29th (got it a day earlier from local postal service).
I was told 1 month of production + approx 20 work days for painting. So about 2 months total. It took 2 months and a couple days before I got photo. So close to estimate.
Too bad they did not have preferred bar size made at the same time / reserved.
-
Seat post length - is it normal to cut it shorter ?
I am 176cm with slightly shorter than average legs, got size 52. The saddle seems to be 10-15mm above what I have on my way too large bike, and it is almost all the way down. I can feel mushiness from the gear power cables.
80cm inseam and 176cm height
BTW: mine was paid May 23rd. Delivered yesterday to Denmark. Got tracking number July 29th (got it a day earlier from local postal service).
I was told 1 month of production + approx 20 work days for painting. So about 2 months total. It took 2 months and a couple days before I got photo. So close to estimate.
Too bad they did not have preferred bar size made at the same time / reserved.
HOW HIGH is your seatpost from the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle?
-
Seat post length - is it normal to cut it shorter ?
I cut mine shorter, the same way I would cut a steer tube. Marked the spot, cut and cleaned after. I then made a new min insertion line with a paint marker, to ensure I have no issues.
-
You're right 45 days is approximately 2 months, but as per my last inquiry to Wendy, it totals to around 62 business days (i.e. almost a month of delay in production).
I asked why thats the case, still waiting for a hopefully informative reply.
For anyone following. I got a reply from Wendy stating that the delay was due to the HBR17 size I ordered, stock needed to be manufactured first.
With that said, I opted for a wider but similar stem length, the entire assembly is being shipped now and waiting for a tracking #.
Kudos to Wendy for offering 2 BC11 bottle cages for my troubles. I am happy with LC's customer service especially coming from an overseas market.
-
Including Paypal fee I added the ti Garmin mount for $51
Jim quoted me $125 for the titanium mount shipped to the US,so I will probably pass on that option.
-
For anyone following. I got a reply from Wendy stating that the delay was due to the HBR17 size I ordered, stock needed to be manufactured first.
With that said, I opted for a wider but similar stem length, the entire assembly is being shipped now and waiting for a tracking #.
Kudos to Wendy for offering 2 BC11 bottle cages for my troubles. I am happy with LC's customer service especially coming from an overseas market.
Does anyone know if they mount BB on bike frame before sending or do you need to mount it yourself? I have torque wrench up to 25nm and i think T47 is 30-40Nm needed?
I guess trip to mechanic is needed for this ::)
-
Seat post length - is it normal to cut it shorter?
I didn't cut my seatpost even though it's shoved in with only 1cm of markings showing.
For anyone following. I got a reply from Wendy stating that the delay was due to the HBR17 size I ordered, stock needed to be manufactured first.
With that said, I opted for a wider but similar stem length, the entire assembly is being shipped now and waiting for a tracking #.
Kudos to Wendy for offering 2 BC11 bottle cages for my troubles. I am happy with LC's customer service especially coming from an overseas market.
Interesting that LC is sending you the horseshoe shaped headset spacer. I did not get one and others have reported that they did not get one too.
Jim quoted me $125 for the titanium mount shipped to the US,so I will probably pass on that option.
Wendy quoted me USD49 last May. :-\
-
I didn't cut my seatpost even though it's shoved in with only 1cm of markings showing. Interesting that there sending you the horseshoe shaped headset spacer. I did not get one and others have reported that they did not get one too. Wendy quoted me USD49 last May. :-\
Isn't horseshoe spacer basically cap for between fork and integrated handlebar?
Thats quite a oversight ...
-
HOW HIGH is your seatpost from the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle?
Now it is 72.5cm approximately. With 170mm cranks I am supposed to start at 71cm according to the multiplier of inseam. And 72.5 feels on the high side. So I would need to cut 2-3cm
Top white cm mark is about 1cm above frame. 1 line above rubber.
-
wow! i wonder how much they charge for the titanium mount now when ordered with the bike?
$10 (april, as part of my LCR order) -> $50 (may, for @mingc) ->$125 (aug, for @pschei shipped) are significant jumps.
maybe demand is way up or they ran through their supply, or just shipping costs/tariffs?
Jim quoted me $125 for the titanium mount shipped to the US,so I will probably pass on that option.
-
Building up the frame and bike was pretty straightforward.
However, what I didn’t like was tightening the bottom bracket cups against the carbon frame.
There was some slight abrasion during tightening. I really wish there was a steel washer between the cup and the frame. The current setup just doesn’t feel right or durable.
thats not just a thing with this frame
Setting up the brakes on this frame is also much harder than on my aluminum Radon R1—it’s quite strange.
On my Radon, I simply loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever hard, and torque the bolts down. The brakes end up nearly perfectly centered.
Doing the exact same thing on the LCR18 just doesn’t work at all. Are the hydraulic hoses extrem stiff brand new. I dont know.
That method doesn't always work even on a frame that it did before. I use thin spacers and then do that
I initially torqued the seatpost to 6 Nm, but that didn't hold. It slipped twice during a ride, even though I used Dynamic carbon paste.
I have now tightened it to 8Nm, hoping it stays this time.
yes mine can slip to. Design flaw with this type of method. not just a lightcarbon thing
The thru-axles do not feel high-quality either.
I can already tell they will fail at some point.
It’s a pity they aren’t standard axles but use a proprietary cone shape instead.
LightCarbon should switch to a more standardized solution.
nope, disagree. I regularly take my bike off and on a trainer. absolutely nothing wrong with the thru-axles.
The internal frame storage was rattling like crazy. I had to glue extra foam inside to stop it.
I hoped i works nice from the factory, but for me, it didn't work out of the box.
have you clipped it in properly. should be very snug. Are you sure it isn't your cables rattling?
Finally, the bike is 2-3x as vulnerable to crosswinds as my Radon R1 ( round tube aluminium bike).
It is incredible how much of a difference there is.
While I was actually considering 65mm deep rims for my Radon R1, on the LCR18, I would now rather run shallower wheels with 40mm depth.
yes, you bought an aero frame. always going to feel side on wind compared to a standard alu bike. I felt the same thing (I run 56mm rims)
-
My computer mount snapped when I rolled over a small bump during my ride this morning. Has anyone found an alternative mount that fits the three bolt mount on the hbr17 bars? Hoping to find something more durable than the stock mount and less expensive than the ti version.
I use a karoo 3 and it was attached to the bar via leash, so no damage to the computer thankfully.
very weird. I've got a insta360 x5 attached to mine along with a garmin 540. sometimes use a small battery pack too and have no issue with it. Ask for a warranty replacement.
-
I actually asked myself the same question when I changed the setup. My thought was that, since the GP 4-Season is not designed for tubeless use, the tyre might not have been sitting properly on the rim and could perhaps have contributed to the instability.
not likely TBH.
-
Hey guys,
Lurking around in this topic for a while, as i have LCR018-D on my wishlist for next bike.
I am currently in ordering phase and doing some details with their staff over e-mail.
Just interested can anyone suggest about size 54 or 56 as currently i am on Focus Culebro SL 2.0 2014(i think this is model 99% sure) and recently had a bike fit with my current bike.
According to his bike fit my reach to handlebar is 495mm and stack is 575mm and i have 655 mm height to handlebars (80 mm stacked with spacers) - i measured stack and total height so could be up n down a bit.
Saddle height is 785 mm so just interested no idea if i'm missing smth with size 54 with saddle height also.
Right now i have it size 54 with 100mm stem and 8mm added stack (according to their specs in mail).
It is shorter in height but i assume relaxed geometry will give similar position or should i just go size 56 to have more flexibility in height and reach is very similar.
I am 185 mm height with shorter legs and inseam of 81 mm (longer torso and shorter legs).
First bike i bought was 2 big for me (bike fitter shortened my stem from 110 mm to 60 mm) so just scared about going 2 big again.
Thanks for help.
54 frame + 100 mm HBR17. They both have almost the same top tube length. forget about reach unless you mean top tube length as they are two totally different measurements. The 54 has 29mm more stack than your focus. The other thing to consider is the reach on the bar itself. How do they compare?
-
wow! i wonder how much they charge for now when ordered with the bike?
maybe demand is way up and they have limited supply, or just shipping costs/tariffs?
The price as of this morning is still $49, I just ordered one and it will ship with my frameset. I think that he is getting hit with shipping cost and tariffs like you suggested.
-
Isn't horseshoe spacer basically cap for between fork and integrated handlebar?
Thats quite a oversight ...
I've not heard anyone who didn't get one say that they need one. My headset fits fine without one. I suspect LC is including them on a case by case basis.
-
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.
My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.
I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).
A bit about me:
Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm
My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.
Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.
-
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.
My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.
I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).
A bit about me:
Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm
My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.
Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.
Bergamont 58: 617 stack
LCR54: 569 stack 48 mm lower
LCR56: 586.8 stack 30 mm lower
The seat angle is also quite different so you'll likely be a bit further back.
54 with a 110 stem would make it smaller, racier chassis, plenty of standover.
56 with a 100 stem is a bit more geometrically similar to the bergamont and probably a better fit.
-
have you clipped it in properly. should be very snug. Are you sure it isn't your cables rattling?
Yes, 100%.
With the foam on that cover, it is quite now. The brake cable is housed in anti-rattling foam.
@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
-
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.
My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.
I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).
A bit about me:
Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm
My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.
Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.
Carefull with reach as hbr17 handlebar has 75 cm reach. I lowered my stem from 110 to 90 as my current handlebar is 50 cm reach so need to shorten it 20 mm. Effective reach is ez way of translating what stem u need from one bike to another.
In other news Wendy confirmed size 54 can stack to 675 mm height (60 mm in headset spacers and 46 mmin handlebar added on 569 stack) to handlebars so it can achieve mine required height of 655 mm i have on my current bike. Tbh i heard u can have some extreme riser handlebars like from Tavelo with 20 mm risers if u need height ( does look horny 8) ). So rn its 99% size 54 frame for me.
I do have shoulder width 42 cm but i went with 400mm handlebars a bit more tucked in to test it.
-
Yes, 100%.
With the foam on that cover, it is quite now. The brake cable is housed in anti-rattling foam.
@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
Hi, could you tell me, which foam you used? Thx!
-
Hi, could you tell me, which foam you used? Thx!
For cables I used some tubes from AliX that is more or less designed to fit the brake tubes. Local bike shops carries them as well.
Used where I found relevant. So downtube.
-
Hi there,
What is the main difference between 02HS and 13HS?
Factory samples are inconsistent so it's really hard to decide. I've seen so many examples of these colours but without reference to each other it's also hard to evaluate what is what.
Maybe you've done better research or had experience with both? Please provide some tips and thoughts about those colours.
Thank you!
-
Hi there,
What is the main difference between 02HS and 13HS?
Factory samples are inconsistent so it's really hard to decide. I've seen so many examples of these colours but without reference to each other it's also hard to evaluate what is what.
Maybe you've done better research or had experience with both? Please provide some tips and thoughts about those colours.
Thank you!
I confirmed 013hs chameleon color for me u do have wendys yt channel with live recording of painted frames.
I believe 013hs is copper and purple while 02hs is copper and dark red so its more dark.
https://m.youtube.com/@wendychen6785 - check for chameleon colors.
I firstly wanted 01hs but thought of it as 2 bright and 13hs seems like middle ground between 02hs and 01hs.
You can also check subreddits r/chinesecarbon r/bikeporn for color examples and ofc this thread.
Then again you can search color codes but those are from Chinese manufacturers so could be harder to find on google what exactly are the colors.
Edit: my bad i thought on 07hs instead of 02hs.
It seems 02hs is brighter version of 013hs.
Edit 2: this is what i found for color codes 013hs and 02hs:
013hs - vibrant purple, deep blues, and dark metallic carbon tones depending on the angle of light.
02hs - a dominant purple hue alongside an orange-gold undertone depending on the sunlight and viewing angle
Hope it helps.
-
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.
My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.
I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).
A bit about me:
Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm
My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.
Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.
Hard to tell how correct my assumption is, as I don't know you body measurements and lower threshold of comfortable fit, but this is very extreme size swap. If you are comfortable on Bergamont and want a bit racier feel, get size 56. Size 54 will require monstrous stem and a Jenga of spacers, or else you're gonna sit like a shrimp which will be neither fast nor comfortable.
-
I was quite worried that british racing green would be too bright a green. And most samples have some strong light source on it.
Here is a couple photos, the one where it leans on the wall is 30 minutes before sunset. It is way darker than sample images, and very close to what I wanted.
The other image during assemply is take in show, but well lit, and you can clearly see the green where light reflects better on the surfaces. The black logo on the downtube is almost invisible in normal daylight unless you turn the bike sideways. It all depends on light reflection. I really like this effect.
-
PSLER 63" Bike Foam Sleeve, 6mm for Hydraulic, Shift and Brake Tubes | Internal housing damper foam sleeve fits bike tubes to effectively silence abnormal rattling https://a.co/d/0iMV9PEu
Hi, could you tell me, which foam you used? Thx!
-
After sending the retakes for the painting two weeks ago, I haven't heard back.
-
@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
personal preference re: looks. the HBR14 is the older “look” for sure. not sure how many of the newer riser bars you’ve seen but handlebars are going through a bit of an evolution right now.
the HBR17 is lighter, using some of the fancier M40 carbon fiber and titanium stem bolts, while still being plenty stiff. and in terms of fit, has a slight rise and slightly greater flare in the drops. so yeah, i think i would’ve still picked the HBR17 over the HBR14 given a choice
-
Jim quoted me $125 for the titanium mount shipped to the US,so I will probably pass on that option.
I ordered the original titanium mount with my bike but did not end up using it. I am in Canada but willing to sell and ship my titanium mount if interested. Shoot me a message if you are interested. Should be way cheaper than ordering from LC.
-
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.
My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.
I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).
A bit about me:
Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm
My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.
Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.
curious why you're thinking of going from a 58, which you say fits quite well, to 54? assuming the geometries of the 2 bikes is quite different (commuter -> aero endurance road bike), dropping down so many sizes will only increase the change.
is the goal to go from an upright commuter to a more racy bike? are you ready to deal with the flexibility challenges or discomfort that comes with that change, or needing to run max spacers and potentially need a riser handlebar?
otherwise, why not pick a size closer to your current size? not trying to be critical per se, but not quite following the logic.
-
Cut my seat post today. Was required. I need around 71cm saddle height.
I have a size 52, and with a seat tube of 48cm, a 40cm seat post that can go in max 20 + 4-5cm from top to post to top of saddle the minimum seat height was 48+20+4.5 = 72.5cm.
Thus the seat post was at least 2-2.5cm too long for my 170mm cranks on a size 52. Cut 2.5cm so I have a little to work with.
My old too big bike inwas at around 71cm as well.
-
curious why you're thinking of going from a 58, which you say fits quite well, to 54? assuming the geometries of the 2 bikes is quite different (commuter -> aero endurance road bike), dropping down so many sizes will only increase the change.
is the goal to go from an upright commuter to a more racy bike? are you ready to deal with the flexibility challenges or discomfort that comes with that change, or needing to run max spacers and potentially need a riser handlebar?
otherwise, why not pick a size closer to your current size? not trying to be critical per se, but not quite following the logic.
Yeah, I think you have a fair point. I was also very happy with how the 58 fit me, so going all the way down to a 54 could definitely introduce more changes than I initially considered, especially given the different geometry of the bike.
I am looking for a more sporty/racy position compared to my commuter, but I’m also aware that a 56 with a different geometry could already give me a significantly more aggressive position without necessarily going that small.
So I agree that I should probably look more closely at the 56 rather than assuming the smaller frame is automatically the better choice. I definitely don’t want to end up compensating with max spacers or a riser bar just to make a 54 fit.
-
Someone recently mentioned the through axles and that they are custom. Do you know whether I will be able to fit the Tailfin Universal Thru Axle? It works with different threads thanks to 2 parts. May there be anything stopping me from fitting it?
-
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
I really like the HBR17
-
@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
i guess no one would take the HBR14 voluntarily ;D
-
Hi there,
What is the main difference between 02HS and 13HS?
Factory samples are inconsistent so it's really hard to decide. I've seen so many examples of these colours but without reference to each other it's also hard to evaluate what is what.
Maybe you've done better research or had experience with both? Please provide some tips and thoughts about those colours.
Thank you!
Hello I have a frame in the 02HS colorway its is a wine purple color in some lighting in other lighting it is almost copper orangish or so. I am not the best at description of colors, their is even a green tone to the chameleon shifting of the paint or so one of my family members said so I slightly see it in the right lighting.? Here are some photos of the bike in some different lighting. I am very happy with the 02HS color.
-
Someone recently mentioned the through axles and that they are custom. Do you know whether I will be able to fit the Tailfin Universal Thru Axle? It works with different threads thanks to 2 parts. May there be anything stopping me from fitting it?
The issue could be that the axle won't fit perfectly, because it is flush on the non drive side (see picture on the upper right side). The spacer which is included with the tailfin axle could fit or you find another one that fits. My Ortlieb trough axle for the ortlieb quick rack did not fit for example.
(https://www.lightcarbon.com/js/htmledit/kindeditor/attached/20260211/20260211165950_94112.jpg)
-
The issue could be that the axle won't fit perfectly, because it is flush on the non drive side (see picture on the upper right side). The spacer which is included with the tailfin axle could fit or you find another one that fits. My Ortlieb trough axle for the ortlieb quick rack did not fit for example.
I was asking myself the same question. I’m optimistic that one of the cone spacers included with Tailfin’s Universal Thru Axle will fit. But I won’t be able to answer that question definitively until the end of September, since my Tailfin order won’t be delivered before then.
-
And maybe someone could help with a 3d print. I am lacking the technical finesse to figure out how to make the correct measurements, but I know there are people out there to help :). If I have an update on that, I will provide you with the files for the print.
-
Hello I have a frame in the 02HS colorway its is a wine purple color in some lighting in other lighting it is almost copper orangish or so. I am not the best at description of colors, their is even a green tone to the chameleon shifting of the paint or so one of my family members said so I slightly see it in the right lighting.? Here are some photos of the bike in some different lighting. I am very happy with the 02HS color.
Thank you! So, I'm gonna match 02HS with Chameleon 102HS (the one from Dawn Sunlight scheme) which is described as gray with golden sheen. I believe it should be pretty nice color combo!
-
@ All
Take a closer look on the HBR17 vs the HBR14 handlebars.
HBR17 looks a bit :o in real world. If HBR14 was standard, i guess no one would take the HBR17 voluntarily
I would probably still choose the HBR17. Looks sleeker and nicer than a standard looking HBR14.
-
Received the new storage door that locks in the down position. Package came with the new door, new metal lock plate and 4 rivets. Planning to install in the next day or two and will provide feedback. Initial impression, the new parts look good. The little nub to help lock the lever in place is nice although I imagine after a few uses, the black will rub off. It will be nice to use the bike and not have to check the lever ever 10-15 minutes.
-
Received the new storage door that locks in the down position. Package came with the new door, new metal lock plate and 4 rivets. Planning to install in the next day or two and will provide feedback. Initial impression, the new parts look good. The little nub to help lock the lever in place is nice although I imagine after a few uses, the black will rub off. It will be nice to use the bike and not have to check the lever ever 10-15 minutes.
Will be interested to hear how this goes Jensen - im on the v2, it hasn't budged since I put some medium loctite on there, but would rather upgrade to v3 to get things perfect. to save shipping I thought id wait to I purchase the LCR020, but funds are low so it'll be a bit of a wait! :P
-
Will be interested to hear how this goes Jensen - im on the v2, it hasn't budged since I put some medium loctite on there, but would rather upgrade to v3 to get things perfect. to save shipping I thought id wait to I purchase the LCR020, but funds are low so it'll be a bit of a wait! :P
LC sent me the v3 for free. I paid nothing.
-
personal preference re: looks. the HBR14 is the older “look” for sure. not sure how many of the newer riser bars you’ve seen but handlebars are going through a bit of an evolution right now.
the HBR17 is lighter, using some of the fancier M40 carbon fiber and titanium stem bolts, while still being plenty stiff. and in terms of fit, has a slight rise and slightly greater flare in the drops. so yeah, i think i would’ve still picked the HBR17 over the HBR14 given a choice
FIAT was also going trough an evolution when they made the fiat multipla.
HBR17 90*380= 305gr
HBR 14 90*380=340gr
Very happily taking those 35gr for the better looks (personal preference).
i guess no one would take the HBR14 voluntarily ;D
I must have a major mismatch with every biker I talk to about this frame (not owning a HBR17). But maybe you're right
Pics
So cool everyone makes his own frame with the colors. Fancy color !
My Ortlieb trough axle for the ortlieb quick rack did not fit for example.
I dont get why they dont just go for a more standard approach. Changing would be so easy.
And maybe someone could help with a 3d print. I am lacking the technical finesse to figure out how to make the correct measurements, but I know there are people out there to help :). If I have an update on that, I will provide you with the files for the print.
What exactly are you looking for? Maybe i can help (if possible).
-
LC sent me the v3 for free. I paid nothing.
LC have been great, I’ve already received the v2 door and a new seatpost from them, so don’t want to push it, I’m more than happy to wait. Let me know how it goes with the install - never riveted anything before so always good to try something new!
-
Finally finished my LCR018 in black and silver tones.
Components:
• Frame in size 54 raw carbon glossy finish with inframe storage
• HBR17 handlebar (400 * 100 mm)
• Serenade wheels, Model TAR50WS (25 mm inner 31 outer), 50 mm deep, SR278C Hubs
• 30 mm Michelin MICHELIN Pro 5 with TPU tubes
• 105 di2 groupset, 11-34 T 12 speed cassette, direct mount for rear derailleur
• Basic Gineyea BB
• Magene TEO with 170 mm carbon crank arm and Passquest 50-34 T
• 160 mm VXM rotor in front, 140 mm in the back
• Cheap bottle holder (that I might change because it hinders the opening mechanism of the storage door), cheap bar tape and cheap rear lamp all from aliexpress
• Ryet 3D saddle
• Onirii carbon pedals
Build was quite straight forward nothing too complicated. I did use foam sleeve tubes for the brake hose.
8.5 kg as pictured (with pedals, wahoo and all my repair kit in the frame).
I did a small test ride. There is a small rattle sound but I feel it comes from the inner storage, I need to investigate. No seatpost or saddle slippage (I did put anti slip carbon grease though). My only complaints is the saddle bolts that are so difficult to tighten and the gap between the frame and the first spacer. That glossy finish is also quite fragile I already have some scratches due to chain drops or small shocks when building the bike. Finally I might redo the bleeding on my Shimano brakes because I feel the feeling can be improved.
I might change for a lighter cassette and also the saddle but other than that it is pretty much spot on.
-
For those who hear rattling from the inner storage area, check the pull tab on the storage bag zipper. It makes a surprisingly loud sound when it hits carbon.
-
For those who hear rattling from the inner storage area, check the pull tab on the storage bag zipper. It makes a surprisingly loud sound when it hits carbon.
I agree that it is a highly likely source.
Mine now routed thru pull loop and pressed down
-
FIAT was also going trough an evolution when they made the fiat multipla.
HBR17 90*380= 305gr
HBR 14 90*380=340gr
Very happily taking those 35gr for the better looks (personal preference).
I must have a major mismatch with every biker I talk to about this frame (not owning a HBR17). But maybe you're right
So cool everyone makes his own frame with the colors. Fancy color !
I dont get why they dont just go for a more standard approach. Changing would be so easy.
What exactly are you looking for? Maybe i can help (if possible).
I imagine that a conical spacer in the right size can help fit the ortlieb axle. But I have no idea how to measure it out which dimensions it should have. If you have experience in that, this would super cool.
-
For those who hear rattling from the inner storage area, check the pull tab on the storage bag zipper. It makes a surprisingly loud sound when it hits carbon.
See... i am not the only one. I just wrapped some brake hose anti rattling foam around it.
I imagine that a conical spacer in the right size can help fit the ortlieb axle.
But I have no idea how to measure it out which dimensions it should have.
If you have experience in that, this would super cool.
So measuring the Cone of the axle as first step.
That should be easy, because its size should be written somewere. Or i just measure it.
I dont know how the Ortlieb axle looks like. Can you show a picture?
-
So measuring the Cone of the axle as first step.
That should be easy, because its size should be written somewere. Or i just measure it.
I dont know how the Ortlieb axle looks like. Can you show a picture?
That would be awesome if you could help a brother out here. The Ortlieb Axle is a smart product, because it has a ton of spacers with it, so I can vary the length perfectly and with the right conicle spacer, it would also fit perfectly. https://at.ortlieb.com/products/thru-axle-m6-connector
-
so, finished another LCR018 build. this time for my wife.
- size 50
- 7,5 kg total (incl. pedals)
- ~2200 € cost
frame, painting, quality, accesories: 1+
first LCR018 i built up, i needed to face the brake mounts. this time the mounts were faced perfectly by LC.
fingers crossed, i hope she likes it
-
Any tips on how to install the pre-filled SRAM STI/brake combo (Shift- | Brake Lever, Disc Brake Flat Mount)? Unscrew on the STI side, but that is not enough. Does it have to be cut?
-
For those curious about the v1 vs v3 door. I have attached a picture below of the different covers, the metal plate and a close up of the new lock.
To install the new door, it took me (my dad) more time to find the rivet gun than to do the job. No instructions provided but very straight forward. Remove old cover and downtube bag, drill out old rivets, pull old plate out, line up new plate with rivets loose in the holes, squeeze rivet gun x2 and finally install the new cover. Quick tips, put a paper towel in the downtube to catch any metal shavings from the old rivets. I also put some tape underneath with the adhesive facing up to help catch the metal. Not a bad idea to tape around the opening to not scuff anything with the tools.
A quick 25km ride today and the door had no rattling nor any other issues. Longer ride tomorrow but I I expect this door to work without issue now the lock position is at the bottom.
-
Finally finished my LCR018 in black and silver tones.
Components:
• Frame in size 54 raw carbon glossy finish with inframe storage
• HBR17 handlebar (400 * 100 mm)
• Serenade wheels, Model TAR50WS (25 mm inner 31 outer), 50 mm deep, SR278C Hubs
• 30 mm Michelin MICHELIN Pro 5 with TPU tubes
• 105 di2 groupset, 11-34 T 12 speed cassette, direct mount for rear derailleur
• Basic Gineyea BB
• Magene TEO with 170 mm carbon crank arm and Passquest 50-34 T
• 160 mm VXM rotor in front, 140 mm in the back
• Cheap bottle holder (that I might change because it hinders the opening mechanism of the storage door), cheap bar tape and cheap rear lamp all from aliexpress
• Ryet 3D saddle
• Onirii carbon pedals
Build was quite straight forward nothing too complicated. I did use foam sleeve tubes for the brake hose.
8.5 kg as pictured (with pedals, wahoo and all my repair kit in the frame).
I did a small test ride. There is a small rattle sound but I feel it comes from the inner storage, I need to investigate. No seatpost or saddle slippage (I did put anti slip carbon grease though). My only complaints is the saddle bolts that are so difficult to tighten and the gap between the frame and the first spacer. That glossy finish is also quite fragile I already have some scratches due to chain drops or small shocks when building the bike. Finally I might redo the bleeding on my Shimano brakes because I feel the feeling can be improved.
I might change for a lighter cassette and also the saddle but other than that it is pretty much spot on.
Can i ask a question as i just ordered mine LCR018-D.
Does BB come preinstalled in frame?
Cause it's basically only part i can't install myself.
-
Can i ask a question as i just ordered mine LCR018-D.
Does BB come preinstalled in frame?
Cause it's basically only part i can't install myself.
Of course not
-
Of course not
Ok thx.
-
Can i ask a question as i just ordered mine LCR018-D.
Does BB come preinstalled in frame?
Cause it's basically only part i can't install myself.
I asked Wendy about the specific tool dimensions for my bottom bracket, and this was here response:
"Regarding the tool to install the T47 BB , a 16T wrench with a diameter of 49 or a 16T 49/50 socket will work."
I ordered the one linked below. You will have plenty of time to receive it, and it will likely be cheaper than paying a bike store to install yours. I have my tool, still waiting for my bike frame.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811917091178.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.3ba41802lrsTeJ&tblci=tbl9mWaEwADAEJ_bXhjnrq_i27ug_08gzZf75vwzKMD2bjihgbGcxNHMucwB&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
-
You didn't say which bottom bracket you're getting from LC, but if it's the steel bearing Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, Wendy misinformed you as she did me. That BB requires a 52mm tool (with 16 notches). A tool for 50mm diameter BBs will not fit. Please see the attached, admittedly bad, picture. It delayed my build by a week and a half while I ordered and waited for the right sized tool.
I recommend the Heppe "retention" tool to keep the tool socket firm again the BB flange when you're turning the socket.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWDOjN
-
You didn't say which bottom bracket you're getting from LC, but if it's the steel bearing Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, Wendy misinformed you as she did me. That BB requires a 52mm tool (with 16 notches). A tool for 50mm diameter BBs will not fit. Please see the attached, admittedly bad, picture. It delayed my build by a week and a half while I ordered and waited for the right sized tool.
I recommend the Heppe "retention" tool to keep the tool socket firm again the BB flange when you're turning the socket.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWDOjN
Thanks for the heads up. I did in fact order the Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, and an extra for SRAM DUB in case I want to go SRAM 1x. However, my purchased crankset has a 24 mm axle. I guess it's a good time to order a 52 mm version and retention tool.
-
You didn't say which bottom bracket you're getting from LC, but if it's the steel bearing Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, Wendy misinformed you as she did me. That BB requires a 52mm tool (with 16 notches). A tool for 50mm diameter BBs will not fit. Please see the attached, admittedly bad, picture. It delayed my build by a week and a half while I ordered and waited for the right sized tool.
I recommend the Heppe "retention" tool to keep the tool socket firm again the BB flange when you're turning the socket.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWDOjN
Sure about that? CEMA and Gineyea BB they provide are 49mm / 16t as stated by wendy. At least mine for original SRAM dub were. See pictures
I just mounted both the CEMA and a Gineyea recently. 52 mm is for SRAM BB, which i would recommend anyways over both of them.
Buy the tool in the pic below. Covers 3 standards for 14€
-
Sure about that?
Yes. Can you not see my attached picture? I assume you know how to read a vernier caliper. The unit marking is out of the frame but the marks are millimeters. To belabor the obvious, the Gineyea in my picture is different from the CEMA in yours.
-
Yes. Can you not see my attached picture? I assume you know how to read a vernier caliper. The unit marking is out of the frame but the marks are millimeters. To belabor the obvious, the Gineyea in my picture is different from the CEMA in yours.
I have the same steel Gineyea 24mm axle BB from LC. I bought this 5 in 1 tool from ali and the 49mm 16 tooth option (FSA-386) of the tool fits perfectly on my BB shell and screws it in without issues.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007635352794.html
-
I have the same steel Gineyea 24mm axle BB from LC. I bought this 5 in 1 tool from ali and the 49mm 16 tooth option (FSA-386) of the tool fits perfectly on my BB shell and screws it in without issues.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007635352794.html
exactly what i am saying. and this has been discussed before. See posts "Reply #535 & 536"
attached a drawing with measurements.
unless there are 2 versions of this thing floating around. @mddobbs, please report back on this if you would.
Yes. Can you not see my attached picture? I assume you know how to read a vernier caliper.
@mr. mingc: maybe (!) if you would take a picture where u measure the side closest to the cameras, wouldnt be off a couple millimeters and not use a 50 cent plastic vernier caliper -> i wouldn't dare correct your post.
btw. caliper shows 51,65mm and you have a considerable gap to the left.
-
The final update I will give on the v3 cover unless an issue arises. 60km ride and drove 45 minutes each way with the bike bouncing/shaking on the bike rack. The lock did not move and no rattle I noticed from the cover. I would call this fixed. 100% recommend getting the v3 door if you have issues with your current.
-
The final update I will give on the v3 cover unless an issue arises. 60km ride and drove 45 minutes each way with the bike bouncing/shaking on the bike rack. The lock did not move and no rattle I noticed from the cover. I would call this fixed. 100% recommend getting the v3 door if you have issues with your current.
Jim told me today
„ now all storage cover are V3 versions after May“
so happy to hear that this problem is fixed
-
Anyone ordered spares at a later date from their original bike order and what postage did you pay?
I thought it might be sensible to order another set of through axles and seatpost expander with them being custom and worried they may get lost or damaged in the future.
the cost of the parts themselves are quite reasonable (30USD in total) but the cost for postage to send them to the UK is $33USD! They will only send them via DPD express and I asked whether a cheaper slower option was available and was told this wasnt.
-
48 dollar to mainland europe - seatpost and 2 trough axles
-
Anyone ordered spares at a later date from their original bike order and what postage did you pay?
I thought it might be sensible to order another set of through axles and seatpost expander with them being custom and worried they may get lost or damaged in the future.
the cost of the parts themselves are quite reasonable (30USD in total) but the cost for postage to send them to the UK is $33USD! They will only send them via DPD express and I asked whether a cheaper slower option was available and was told this wasnt.
Hi Pandaman,
I wouldn't mind picking up a set of thru axles as well - would be happy to split the cost with you (and cover the forwarding post to me).
Send me a message if you'd be interested!
-
exactly what i am saying. and this has been discussed before. See posts "Reply #535 & 536"
attached a drawing with measurements.
unless there are 2 versions of this thing floating around. @mddobbs, please report back on this if you would.
@mr. mingc: maybe (!) if you would take a picture where u measure the side closest to the cameras, wouldnt be off a couple millimeters and not use a 50 cent plastic vernier caliper -> i wouldn't dare correct your post.
btw. caliper shows 51,65mm and you have a considerable gap to the left.
I'll be glad to take donations to buy a genuine Mitutoyo. Perhaps I'll start a GoFundMe.
My Gineyea is installed and bike fully assembled. I posted a pic of the finished bike earlier in this thread. No more close up dimensional pictures! I do have an unused tool for a 50mm T-47.
It does not surprise me in the least that there is more than one version of the Gineyea. It is both a scourge and boon of Chinese manufacturing that specs can change overnight without notice.
-
'll be glad to take donations to buy a genuine Mitutoyo. Perhaps I'll start a GoFundMe.
My Gineyea is installed and bike fully assembled. I posted a pic of the finished bike earlier in this thread. No more close up dimensional pictures! I do have an unused tool for a 50mm T-47.
U just installed it with normal wrench on hand feel?
I did install BBs before on aluminium frames by feel but not carbon ones. Scared to make dent to frame.
-
No, I use torque wrenches religiously.
-
I'll be glad to take donations to buy a genuine Mitutoyo. Perhaps I'll start a GoFundMe.
My Gineyea is installed and bike fully assembled. I posted a pic of the finished bike earlier in this thread. No more close up dimensional pictures! I do have an unused tool for a 50mm T-47.
It does not surprise in the least that there is more than one version of the Gineyea. It is both a scourge and boon of Chinese manufacturing that specs can change overnight without notice.
@mingc agree that with Chinese manufacturing the specs could change depending on the hour you buy something. It might be helpful to the thread if you let people know when you got your frame and that way others reading this might be able to reference the same purchase time frame and buy the right tool. I ordered my frame in April and received it in July and have a 49mm bb.
Also, this could just be the camera angle/lens or additional material on the tool itself but the difference in size between the 49mm and 52mm tool appears to be significantly larger than 3mm.
-
Hi Pandaman,
I wouldn't mind picking up a set of thru axles as well - would be happy to split the cost with you (and cover the forwarding post to me).
Send me a message if you'd be interested!
Hi, yeah would be good to split the cost of the postage to make it more bearable as I don't think I would bother otherwise.
Will ping you a PM.
If anyone else in the UK wanting to join in to buy some spare axles then let me know.
-
Hi Pandaman,
I wouldn't mind picking up a set of thru axles as well - would be happy to split the cost with you (and cover the forwarding post to me).
Send me a message if you'd be interested!
Hi bsharp77, can you check your inbox to see if a PM has arrived? Sent PM but nothing is showing in my sent items
-
It's arrived! Took a bit of a punt on the paint; Is it blue? Is it green? It's so preeetty! Looks really tidy, paint is excellent, contact points have been nicely faced and everything was really packed. Looking forward to getting it built!
would love to see final build pics with this colour!
-
FYI, beware the Ti computer mount. I added this with my frame and bar order, snapped with only my Karoo3 on it. Never had a light or gopro with the computer.
-
FYI, beware the Ti computer mount. I added this with my frame and bar order, snapped with only my Karoo3 on it. Never had a light or gopro with the computer.
And I ordered one thinking it would be more stable than the standard mount :(
Are there any sturdier alternatives that fit the three mounting holes?
-
yikes! i'd ask for a refund or warranty replacement.
it looks different from mine (ordered 4/4, delivered 6/27)
FYI, beware the Ti computer mount. I added this with my frame and bar order, snapped with only my Karoo3 on it. Never had a light or gopro with the computer.
-
yikes! i'd ask for a refund or warranty replacement.
it looks different from mine (ordered 4/4, delivered 6/27)
The Ti mount LC is shipping me looks like the one you have, LC must have upgraded the mount as it looks like beefer construction...
-
yeah, i don't know when @chaseme's ti mount was shipped, but the truss construction of the newer/current titanium computer mount probably adds strength without adding too much material and weight.
-
And I ordered one thinking it would be more stable than the standard mount :(
Are there any sturdier alternatives that fit the three mounting holes?
I wouldn't worry about it, that flimsy mount shown by the OP (chaseme) is not what LC is currently sending out. See the pic uploaded by Jksu, that is what LC is shipping now...
-
I contacted Jim from LC and he said he'd send me the new version. If anyone has the old style like me I'd ask them to replace it before a costly break maybe takes out your computer. I got luck as only one side broke when I noticed snd remove my Karoo.
-
Anyone ordered spares at a later date from their original bike order and what postage did you pay?
Just ordered seatpost to Denmark. Shipping $33. So I added 2x BC11 bottle holders and a shimano direct mount derailleur to the same package - no extra shipping. So seems to be the small packet shipping cost. But that is DDP. I.e. duty prepaid. I think the price is fair.
-
Hello,
Bit of a noob question.
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
1- Anyone has done that? What stem would you recommend for that?
2-Should I:
A) Ask for the HBR17 top covers and spacers and then find a stem that fits on top
or B) Get a stem with a top cover that will work with the lcr018D frame.
I was looking at the deda superbox V2 for example, it ships with 46mm and 56mm top covers.
Would that work as option B (preferably) or A? (I tired to attach a picture)
Thank you
(http://)
-
cool project. i love the idea given, generally, i prefer having the option to swap stems/bars more easily. i did wonder if fsa acr standard stems would work on the LCR018D.
i haven't done it (liking the HBR17 and sizing worked out). but i'd ask LC if they make headset covers that pair up with fsa acr or deda's stems. if not, see if someone online has created a 3D print file for such a cover/spacer.
the deda 56 might work given the LCR's headset bearings are size 52 but you'd have to take a caliper to the LCR to confirm it wouldn't rub the frame.
Hello,
Bit of a noob question.
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
1- Anyone has done that? What stem would you recommend for that?
2-Should I:
A) Ask for the HBR17 top covers and spacers and then find a stem that fits on top
or B) Get a stem with a top cover that will work with the lcr018D frame.
I was looking at the deda superbox V2 for example, it ships with 46mm and 56mm top covers.
Would that work as option B (preferably) or A? (I tired to attach a picture)
Thank you
(http://)
-
Hey,
I got a reply from Joy from LC with this diagram:
For your reference, the original LCR018-D headset interface with our HBR17 integrated handlebar system is as follows:
Upper headset interface: Inner diameter 52.1mm, depth 8.7mm
Fork steerer: Standard OD1 diameter 28.6mm
I found the technical Deda Superbox V2 manualwith the dimensions. See picture 2.
I feel like it should work. However, I do not understand the 8.8+-0,3 mm dimension on the Deda manual. What does it refer too? Looks like the top cover?
Will try to ask both Deda and LC for confirmation too.
Thanks
-
Hello,
Bit of a noob question.
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
1- Anyone has done that? What stem would you recommend for that?
2-Should I:
A) Ask for the HBR17 top covers and spacers and then find a stem that fits on top
or B) Get a stem with a top cover that will work with the lcr018D frame.
I was looking at the deda superbox V2 for example, it ships with 46mm and 56mm top covers.
Would that work as option B (preferably) or A? (I tired to attach a picture)
Thank you
(http://)
Hi, yes I tried it with a random ztto fully integrated stem from ali. https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008910085339.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.38ed5c5f400RqZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
It worked, but I could not get the gap between frame and lowest part of the integrated parts, see picture, quite closed. And it was not easy to fix the play in the headset, but it worked.
I thank you for the additional information from Joy, I will try it again obviously :)
-
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260820/temp/alf2chao.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9382/alf2chao_png.htm)
I totally agree with you.
Just go ahead and take the HBR14. Simple, cheap, its proven to work...done that on my bike. No issues, if you can handle to good look ;-)
I now have somewhat over 100km on my bike. Standard cheapo BB is already making noises.... meh
I think i will go for the rotor BB and put some shims between my BB and the carbon frame to prevent the BB from eating my frame.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/temp/ioq6rjlt.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9372/ioq6rjlt_png.htm)
-
Update on lead times for those interested. I paid on June 17th and was told 25-35 days for size 52 frame in raw carbon glossy + 400x100 bars + C53DB wheels.
Update yesterday (35 days post order) was that frame is 10 days away, fork 15 days and handlebar 30 days. Based on other's experiences in this thread I was expecting closer to 60 days in total so not exactly a surprise, but bizarre that their estimates are so consistently wrong.
Another 10-15 days for the bars...
-
Another 10-15 days for the bars...
Fu now scared for mine order.
But yea thats production for you.
Machine breaks down or bad produced batch of handlebars could be the reason or just slower production time compared to rest of bike parts.
Hopefully no more delays for you.
-
Hello,
Bit of a noob question.
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
1- Anyone has done that? What stem would you recommend for that?
2-Should I:
A) Ask for the HBR17 top covers and spacers and then find a stem that fits on top
or B) Get a stem with a top cover that will work with the lcr018D frame.
I was looking at the deda superbox V2 for example, it ships with 46mm and 56mm top covers.
Would that work as option B (preferably) or A? (I tired to attach a picture)
Thank you
(http://)
Given that Lambda Tuning in Germany sell the LCR018 frame under their own brand and offer it with the Superbox stem, it should work :)
-
For anyone following. I got a reply from Wendy stating that the delay was due to the HBR17 size I ordered, stock needed to be manufactured first.
With that said, I opted for a wider but similar stem length, the entire assembly is being shipped now and waiting for a tracking #.
Kudos to Wendy for offering 2 BC11 bottle cages for my troubles. I am happy with LC's customer service especially coming from an overseas market.
KC, Did you ever receive your tracking number for the frameset from LC?
-
Hello,
Bit of a noob question.
I do not want to use the HBR17 integrated handlebars on my build. But rather a 3rd party 2 piece bar+stem combo, if possible with full integration.
1- Anyone has done that? What stem would you recommend for that?
Have you asked them whether the stem & spacers from the LCR017S-D frame set (which they don't have listed separately) fits?
-
On uneven roads I have some noise from front of bike. Not sure if it is GPS holder, where the Garmin plate can wiggle side to side or the brake hoses inside bars. Anybody else found the issue ? And a fix ?
-
...
The frame still has to ship, of course, so I'll report back once it actually arrives.
Reporting back!
After that post, I waited patiently for the tracking number, which I explicitly requested on Monday, 10 August, as I expected the order to arrive that week. I received the tracking number the next day - after the order had already been delivered to my door. The package arrived without any damage at all, so I was fairly confident the frame was fine, and a thorough inspection confirmed it.
I didn't have time to build the bike up during the week, so I finished it over the weekend. Note that I had never serviced or built a bike before. With a lot of YouTube videos, this forum and the necessary beginner mistakes, I made it work. The first 60 km are done with no issues at all (let's hope it stays that way).
I'll share some pictures, along with the specs:
- Size: 50
- Colour: LCB-01HS (Chameleon 01HS)
- Bottom bracket: Gineyea T47 BB(Shimano 24) (provided by LC)
- Groupset: Shimano 105 Di2
- Wheels: EliteWheels ENT 2.0 50mm
- Tyres: Continental GP5000 28mm with RideNow 36g 700x18-28C inner tubes
- Disc brakes: 2x 140mm ZTTO rotors
- Computer: iGPSport BiNavi Air
- Pedals: ONIRII SPD-SL
- Saddle: Ryet 3D-printed saddle
Feedback is welcome if anything looks off, since this was my first build. ;D
Happy to post more pictures of the chameleon colour in different lighting on request - I was unsure about it myself when placing my order, but I really like it.
-
Very nice! The color looks good. How much does it weigh?
-
Mvk , almost looks like you could do with a zero offset seat post as the saddle looks like you're almost out of room.
-
I'm sorry if this has been answered. I've still got 20 pages of the thread to read, but I thought this might help. I had creaking from "down there" on another bike. I fiddled with the cranks, and it still cracked. Then I got a new Tripeak bottom bracket: cre-e-eak. I wondered if it was my saddle, so I swapped it out Then finally one day, on there same climb it always creaked on, no creaks. It turned out it was my shoes!
I think you said it's a new bike, so your old bike with shoes was fine... But... Maybe.
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my experiences with the LCR18 and perhaps ask for some help.
I ordered my frame on May 19th, and it arrived on Monday, July 20th (size 56cm, raw glossy carbon).
The packaging and the parcel itself survived the shipping to Germany well. During the build, I had major issues routing the 105 Di2 cable—likely due to sharp edges in the chainstay junction area. It took me two hours to get the cable through, even using a routing tool.
Build specs: 105 Di2 groupset with Magene P515, old carbon spoke Lightcarbon wheelset; total weight came to 7.9 kg including SPD pedals from ali. Carbon elitaone saddle.
I noticed creaking on the first ride, and it got significantly worse over time. I initially used the included Gineyea bottom bracket. I thought, "Okay, it must be the BB" (like the issue a fellow the English YouTuber had), so I installed a new Kaktus ceramic BB I had bought beforehand. After just 5 km, that one started creaking too. I wondered if it might be the old Magene P515 crankset, that I reused, so I swapped it for a brand-new, unused 105 crank, but the creaking returned after 5 km. I checked the frame for cracks or loose BB cups (I always apply plenty of Shimano Premium Grease before installation), but found nothing obvious. Checked and greased all of the true axles, Based on where the noise is coming from, it has to be the bottom bracket area. Strangely enough, it also creaks when you flex the frame from side to side while applying a bit of pressure, or even just when you step on a pedal. However, when the bottom bracket is removed, there is no creaking, even with lateral pressure.
Now I’ve ordered a Praxis Works BB and hope that fixes the problem.
Have any of you had similar experiences?
Thanks in advance.
Photos will follow once I've finally managed to assemble it without any creaking. :)
-
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260820/temp/alf2chao.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9382/alf2chao_png.htm)
I totally agree with you.
Just go ahead and take the HBR14. Simple, cheap, its proven to work...done that on my bike. No issues, if you can handle to good look ;-)
I now have somewhat over 100km on my bike. Standard cheapo BB is already making noises.... meh
I think i will go for the rotor BB and put some shims between my BB and the carbon frame to prevent the BB from eating my frame.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260810/temp/ioq6rjlt.png) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9372/ioq6rjlt_png.htm)
Edit: Saddle slipped again at 240km with 9-10Nm... it start beeing annoying at this point.
-
Edit: Saddle slipped again at 240km with 9-10Nm... it start beeing annoying at this point.
I have had no slippage with the original seat post. As a precaution, I took some clean film and put it on the sides of the seat post. Enough to give some more size to the post while letting it slide smoothly in the frame. With some carbon paste and 10nm, no issues at 88kg. Maybe worth a shot with the film.
-
Finally finished my LCR018 in black and silver tones.
Components:
• Frame in size 54 raw carbon glossy finish with inframe storage
• HBR17 handlebar (400 * 100 mm)
• Serenade wheels, Model TAR50WS (25 mm inner 31 outer), 50 mm deep, SR278C Hubs
• 30 mm Michelin MICHELIN Pro 5 with TPU tubes
• 105 di2 groupset, 11-34 T 12 speed cassette, direct mount for rear derailleur
• Basic Gineyea BB
• Magene TEO with 170 mm carbon crank arm and Passquest 50-34 T
• 160 mm VXM rotor in front, 140 mm in the back
• Cheap bottle holder (that I might change because it hinders the opening mechanism of the storage door), cheap bar tape and cheap rear lamp all from aliexpress
• Ryet 3D saddle
• Onirii carbon pedals
Build was quite straight forward nothing too complicated. I did use foam sleeve tubes for the brake hose.
8.5 kg as pictured (with pedals, wahoo and all my repair kit in the frame).
I did a small test ride. There is a small rattle sound but I feel it comes from the inner storage, I need to investigate. No seatpost or saddle slippage (I did put anti slip carbon grease though). My only complaints is the saddle bolts that are so difficult to tighten and the gap between the frame and the first spacer. That glossy finish is also quite fragile I already have some scratches due to chain drops or small shocks when building the bike. Finally I might redo the bleeding on my Shimano brakes because I feel the feeling can be improved.
I might change for a lighter cassette and also the saddle but other than that it is pretty much spot on.
This looks so good you have convinced me to get this for my next frame in chameleon purple/green
I am just a little bummed about the weight of these builds. I am hoping to stay under 7.5 kg with 2x, an electronic groupset and 32c tires. Will def have to be picky with stuff like bars, saddle, cranks/cassettes etc....
-
Edit: Saddle slipped again at 240km with 9-10Nm... it start beeing annoying at this point.
How much do you weight?
-
I'm considering ordering together with some wheels, specifically C53DB in 60 mm (rim .RD923-60C) It's possible to get them in the ultralight version, anyone have experience with their ultralight rims, and if so do they feel fragile?
-
Edit: Saddle slipped again at 240km with 9-10Nm... it start beeing annoying at this point.
Did you ask LC about the new upgraded seatpost clamp?
-
Have you asked them whether the stem & spacers from the LCR017S-D frame set (which they don't have listed separately) fits?
It'll definitely fit as I swapped out that stem on my LCR017 for the HBR17 bars when they were released. It's solid but very heavy.
-
Did you ask LC about the new upgraded seatpost clamp?
I haven't heard about a new clamp - has this been confirmed?
They already have an upgraded v2 seatpost, but ive never heard the clamp mentioned until now.
-
I haven't heard about a new clamp - has this been confirmed?
They already have an upgraded v2 seatpost, but ive never heard the clamp mentioned until now.
i just received a frame. seat post clamp is unchanged.
@flax: what is the source of this info?
this forum is full of seat post slippage discussion, hints and fixes. dunno why people need to bring it up constantly. common problem on many frames, loads of ways to fix it and get on with our lifes 8)
-
I haven't heard about a new clamp - has this been confirmed?
Not sure how new it is, but the old one is black on the inside and the new one is blank metal (on the friction side) with sharper edges.
I asked them about the issue - still had slippage at 9,5 nm, upgraded seatpost (grippy texture) and carbon paste. So they asked me to make a video demonstrating the slippage and then did send it to me for free.
-
Left is the new one, the one on the right looks a bit worn because I tried to sand it to be more grippy. The new one is a lot better though.
-
How much do you weight?
I am only 75kg.
Did you ask LC about the new upgraded seatpost clamp?
When was that released? I just got my bike not a month ago.
I have to check it again, but mine is all black. No shiny surface like on yours.
Oh no, that will take time till i get it.
Edit:
Due to the slipping, the anti-slip-coating is already ripped of on parts of my stem.
-
Left is the new one, the one on the right looks a bit worn because I tried to sand it to be more grippy. The new one is a lot better though.
interesting. so no paint over the "teeth" to make it stickier and bigger "teeth" for bigger bites or more contact patch? hope it helps. i haven't had problems with mine but appreciate LC making continuous changes to reduce the risk of slippage issues for everyone
-
interesting. so no paint over the "teeth" to make it sticker and bigger "teeth" for bigger bites or more contact patch? hope it helps. i haven't had problems with mine but appreciate LC making continuous changes to reduce the risk of slippage issues for everyone
The so-called new one on the left might actually be a clamp from one of their other famesets, and not standard with LCR-018D. LC might have just sent it to the OP to try and help fix his slippage issue. Note that the clamp on the left is not the same size as the one on the right, OP how well does it mate with the LCR-018D frame as the silver faced clamp looks to be shorter?
-
Guys, need support, I try to install the Cema T47 bottom bracket that LightCarbon offers. I can’t get either cup to start threading by hand at all — it just keeps turning without engaging and falls straight back out. Cup on the drive side, counterclockwise. Cup with the center sleeve on the non-drive side, clockwise, correct? What could go wrong?
-
The so-called new one on the left might actually be a clamp from one of their other famesets, and not standard with LCR-018D. LC might have just sent it to the OP to try and help fix his slippage issue. Note that the clamp on the left is not the same size as the one on the right, OP how well does it mate with the LCR-018D frame as the silver faced clamp looks to be shorter?
I think it just appears to be different sized on the picture because the bolts were screwed in different amounts. Tomorrow I can measure. Nevertheless it fits perfectly. And I don’t think it’s only so-called new, because they told me that the engineers initially thought the seatpost itself were the problem (thus the new grippy version), but found out later that the clamp design is the main problem. The new surface looks milled and is really sharp.
-
I think it just appears to be different sized on the picture because the bolts were screwed in different amounts. Tomorrow I can measure. Nevertheless it fits perfectly. And I don’t think it’s only so-called new, because they told me that the engineers initially thought the seatpost itself were the problem (thus the new grippy version), but found out later that the clamp design is the main problem. The new surface looks milled and is really sharp.
Ok, did you get the impression that this is the clamp that will be shipped with orders going forward? My frame was supposed to have been shipped last week, it will be interesting to see which seat clamp shows up.
-
I haven't heard about a new clamp - has this been confirmed?
They already have an upgraded v2 seatpost, but ive never heard the clamp mentioned until now.
I have built 2 lcr018 frames now after a big crash on my first frame. My second frame came with this updated seatpost clamp 3 weeks ago, just like in the picture and is definitely different and has more bite to it. I never had problems with slip on my first frame after putting carbon paste on the smooth surfaces of the top and bottom portions of the seatpost clamp which touch the middle portion. Also dont put too much carbon fiber paste on your seatpost - less is more. I weigh 90kg.
-
Guys, need support, I try to install the Cema T47 bottom bracket that LightCarbon offers. I can’t get either cup to start threading by hand at all — it just keeps turning without engaging and falls straight back out. Cup on the drive side, counterclockwise. Cup with the center sleeve on the non-drive side, clockwise, correct? What could go wrong?
Drive side is counterclockwise while non-drive side is clockwise, yes. I don't know whether it matters but in Cema's documentation, they have the sleeve on the right cup.
Can you check the direction of the BB threads to make sure the shells were installed correctly? And do the cups catch the BB threads if you inverse the rotation?
-
I have built 2 lcr018 frames now after a big crash on my first frame. My second frame came with this updated seatpost clamp 3 weeks ago, just like in the picture and is definitely different and has more bite to it. I never had problems with slip on my first frame after putting carbon paste on the smooth surfaces of the top and bottom portions of the seatpost clamp which touch the middle portion. Also dont put too much carbon fiber paste on your seatpost - less is more. I weigh 90kg.
Your input clears this up. Based you receiving your second frameset just three weeks ago, it sounds like I should be getting the new clamp with my order. Thanks
-
I have built 2 lcr018 frames now after a big crash on my first frame. My second frame came with this updated seatpost clamp 3 weeks ago, just like in the picture and is definitely different and has more bite to it. I never had problems with slip on my first frame after putting carbon paste on the smooth surfaces of the top and bottom portions of the seatpost clamp which touch the middle portion. Also dont put too much carbon fiber paste on your seatpost - less is more. I weigh 90kg.
My frame arrived last week and I have the newer clamp too.
-
Guys, need support, I try to install the Cema T47 bottom bracket that LightCarbon offers. I can’t get either cup to start threading by hand at all — it just keeps turning without engaging and falls straight back out. Cup on the drive side, counterclockwise. Cup with the center sleeve on the non-drive side, clockwise, correct? What could go wrong?
the CEMA BB has directional marks on all parts. hard to get it wrong unless you accidentally interchanged L and R. always gently screw it in by hand first.
I ordered the ceramic CEMA (thought i try ceramic once again). took me 2 aproached with this thing to get dub wide chain line spacing sort of right.
after a few km i wanted to try different crankset. but ceramics bearings didn't survive a really really mild hit with my rubber hammer onto the spindle :o
anyone got long term experience with the CEMA ceramic bearing? can't believe it is that fragile
-
Anyone got a recent "all in" price to the UK please.
Much appreciated.
-
Chiyou, MarioCanario, thank you, it worked.
-
I want to install a 3 mm headset spacer but the ones I got with the frame are only 5mm or 10mm. Anyone knows compatible options I could buy or a 3D print available?
Did anyone changed the height of the headset spacers without the options given but LightCarbon ?
Thanks
-
Hi all
Do I need to buy adapters to run 160mm rotors?
Thanks
-
Hi all
Do I need to buy adapters to run 160mm rotors?
Thanks
Yes If its not furnished with your brakes you need to buy some
-
the CEMA BB has directional marks on all parts. hard to get it wrong unless you accidentally interchanged L and R. always gently screw it in by hand first.
I ordered the ceramic CEMA (thought i try ceramic once again). took me 2 aproached with this thing to get dub wide chain line spacing sort of right.
after a few km i wanted to try different crankset. but ceramics bearings didn't survive a really really mild hit with my rubber hammer onto the spindle :o
anyone got long term experience with the CEMA ceramic bearing? can't believe it is that fragile
I have been using them for 6 months now. No problems or complications since installation. I did notice, however, that it was very difficult to get a DUB crankset through. I have never had that with other crank and bottom bracket combinations.
-
I have been using them for 6 months now. No problems or complications since installation. I did notice, however, that it was very difficult to get a DUB crankset through. I have never had that with other crank and bottom bracket combinations.
It seems like their bearings are very tight. I bought the CEMA BB and had to get a new bearing sent to me. My 24mm crank would not physically fit through the bearing. Kudos to CEMA for being very quick to help resolve the issue.
Since that, I have about 2500km on the BB and have been very happy.
-
I have been using them for 6 months now. No problems or complications since installation. I did notice, however, that it was very difficult to get a DUB crankset through. I have never had that with other crank and bottom bracket combinations.
indeed. super tight, thats why i needed the rubber hammer. but after 1 hit the BB sounded like a sack of nails
-
Yes If its not furnished with your brakes you need to buy some
Front 160 without adapter, according to LightCarbon website, right?
-
indeed. super tight, thats why i needed the rubber hammer. but after 1 hit the BB sounded like a sack of nails
Can confirm, a couple of hard slaps with the hand.
-
Front 160 without adapter, according to LightCarbon website, right?
The LC web page is showing adapters being used for both front and rear brake caliper installations.
-
Anyone tried running with the Seatpost below the max insertion depth? I.e beyond where the grippy surface ends.
My Seatpost is at the lowest point already but when compared to my old bike it looks to be 5-10mm higher. So on the LCR018-D this would mean it would grip on a smooth section of the post.
-
I've not, though I was worried I'd have to, before I got my saddle height dialed in. If you look at the seat tube, it narrows in the middle. Looking inside the seat tube, there's a shelf in the middle that prevents the seat post from going down further. So, you'll likely have to cut your seat post if you want to insert it beyond the part with the rough surface. I think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.
-
It’s been winter here in Australia so haven’t ridden the LCR-018 that often, plus been trying to fix an ongoing annoying creak in the seatpost.
But I did my first long hard ride as part of a local ‘gran fondo’ style event last weekend, 190km, relatively flat and fast in a group of 40-50 on the way out and about 20 of us on the way back. The bike was everything I had hoped it would be when I bought it, really responsive to putting some power into the pedals, climbs way better than I expected, the high stack allowed me to stay in the aero tuck position for extended periods and lots of turns on the front of the group.
I haven’t got my fitness back up (after a health issue) for racing again yet, interested to see how it handles in a crit. Not sure I’ll go wider than the 30mm tires that measure 33 on my rims, it feels good as is, so stable railing turns at high speed on the flat or down hills.
As mentioned previously I came from a Supersix that handled beautifully in all situations except being a bit skittish on high speed descents. I’m way more confident on the LCR (maybe that’s not a good thing because I’m descending faster lol).
Took my bike into a new mechanic today and straight away he said he thinks the bottom of my seatpost is knocking against the seat tube when I’m climbing seated (which is the main time it creaks, stops as soon as I stand on the pedals), he’s seen it before, so likely he will cut it a bit shorter.
-
I think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.
Took my bike into a new mechanic today and straight away he said he thinks the bottom of my seatpost is knocking against the seat tube when I’m climbing seated (which is the main time it creaks, stops as soon as I stand on the pedals), he’s seen it before, so likely he will cut it a bit shorter.
I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
-
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.
I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.
-
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.
I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
Maybe when you request the updated seatpost clamp from LC, also order a replacement seatpost - might finally solve your slippage problem once and for all.
-
I bought the LCR-018D in January and have ridden it for several hundred kilometers. I was concerned about the seatpost slipping, so I recently had a new one sent to me. The new one clearly has a thicker carbon layup. It doesn’t slip at all. I hope this is helpful to everyone.
-
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.
I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
I dient had the slipping problem Seatpost is staying in place even with my 90kg.
Unfortunately, I’m still having that issue with the creaking bottom bracket.
I’ve already tried the Genyua, a Ceramic Kaktus, a Praxis Works, and a one-piece BB from Bikone (€300), but it still creaks whenever I put down more than 200W or ride out of the saddle. I’ve definitely ruled out all the other potential sources of creaking. For now, I’m just riding it as is—I’ve more or less given up.
-
And I’m pretty sure it’s the bottom bracket, because the higher the quality of the BB, the less it creaks. With the one from LC Genuya—or whatever it’s called—it happened on every pedal stroke, regardless of the wattage I was putting out.
-
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
maybe TOKEN BB47V24? It comes with spacers on both sides for 85.5 mm. It looks like this will prevent it from digging into the carbon, which was your problem. Token claims to have premium bearings.
-
Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.
I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?
Try putting blue loctite on seatpost bolts
-
And I’m pretty sure it’s the bottom bracket, because the higher the quality of the BB, the less it creaks. With the one from LC Genuya—or whatever it’s called—it happened on every pedal stroke, regardless of the wattage I was putting out.
Are you using a crank from a brand other than Shimano or SRAM? Maybe that's the problem.
-
I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.
Hope T47 are very good quality.
-
Are you using a crank from a brand other than Shimano or SRAM? Maybe that's the problem.
I’ve already tried it with Magene P515, 105, and Ultegra cranks. The creaking only changes depending on the bottom brackets.
I'm pretty sure it's not the crank.
-
My mechanic found another source of clicky sounds: the rear bottle cage bolts. He regreased everything.
I hadn’t heard that as a separate sound so looking forward to a very quiet bike later this week when I get out on it again!
-
fortunatly i am not plagued by creaking often. but i like to repair and offer repair to others, so
i had a handful of fellow club riders bikes over that showed creaking. It has only once been the BB so far.
hit list:
- cassette (too loose, broken, no grease used)
- free hub
- spokes (nipple)
- seatpost
- chainring bolts
- thru axles
- pedals
- headset (too loose)
due to the stiffness carbon can act as a sound/vibration conductor. it is sometimes hard to determine the real source.
often it's something small, noone thought of
-
Does anyone know the thread pitch for the rear bolt that afixes to the hanger and then the rear ta to it. I want to replace the one I have. Can't seem to find replacement details easily. If anyone has a link to a replacement one I could buy. Please.
-
I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.
I think its not look related. Its just semi-good engineering.
If you engineer right... luck is not needed.
Maybe when you request the updated seatpost clamp from LC, also order a replacement seatpost - might finally solve your slippage problem once and for all.
I will ask. I am not willig to pay, as i expect it to work properly out of the box. Will see what they say.
Try putting blue loctite on seatpost bolts
I am not sure if that would change anything but the friction of the screw in the threads => therefore putting down more clamping force.
I did something similar to that. See below.
The problem is not that the screw gets loose, the problem is, that the clamping force is too low to keep the seatpost in place.
But if that also doesnt work, why not add Loctite. Will be the next thing on my list of trial and error.
So I took of my seatpost today. You can see the stripped paint, and clamping marks.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/7zl4bmi3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/7zl4bmi3_jpg.htm)
Picture of my clamp
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/iia4yz3d.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/iia4yz3d_jpg.htm)
I greased the sliding angles, so the clamp should slide better and provide a stronger clamp, by using the same torque.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/yy4ycpkb.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/yy4ycpkb_jpg.htm)
-
More stripped paint and marks.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/p629j53a.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/p629j53a_jpg.htm)
I drowned the post in Dynamic Carbon Paste... may a lot help a lot. Maybe i put on too less in the past.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/s8er7ivn.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/s8er7ivn_jpg.htm)
Torque over spec to 10Nm again
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/nbb78b22.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/nbb78b22_jpg.htm)
-
Have you tried putting antiseize or some other kind of thread lubricant on the bolts? If there's a lot of friction in the threads that will lower the clamping force for the same bolt torque compared with lower friction.
-
Thanks for the heads up. I did in fact order the Gineyea T-47 for 24mm axles, and an extra for SRAM DUB in case I want to go SRAM 1x. However, my purchased crankset has a 24 mm axle. I guess it's a good time to order a 52 mm version and retention tool.
mddobbs - I received my new LCR-018D frameset about 30 minutes ago, and just like you I ordered both the Gineyea BBs for Shimano (86-24) and Sram (86-29). I can confirm that the BB-T47 - 49/50mm - 16T tool fits both of those BBs. FYI - I purchased the Muqzi tool/adapter off of AliExpress.
-
Ok, I did something really stupid and now I'm looking for some advice. Got my frameset in today and started the build with something that should have been easy - installing Di2 wires. I decided to try and keep the Di2 wire anti-noise plastic tie wraps on, so i attached the end of a Risk Internal Cable Routing Tool to the Di2 wire and ran the wire down the seat post heading towards the rear derailleur hole. Of course, the Risk tool end came undone in the chain stay so I pulled the Di2 wire out and attempted getting the risk tool end out. The tool end got lodged in the chain stay so with a lot of playing around I finally got it to start moving, the only problem is that with moving the frame around trying to get that sucker out it has now lodged itself in one of the seat stays. I wish that I could leave it there, but I was able to get the tool where it moves up and down in the seat stay and with every movement of the frame it makes a god-awful rattling noise. Any suggestions...
-
Ok, I did something really stupid and now I'm looking for some advice. Got my frameset in today and started the build with something that should have been easy - installing Di2 wires. I decided to try and keep the Di2 wire anti-noise plastic tie wraps on, so i attached the end of a Risk Internal Cable Routing Tool to the Di2 wire and ran the wire down the seat post heading towards the rear derailleur hole. Of course, the Risk tool end came undone in the chain stay so I pulled the Di2 wire out and attempted getting the risk tool end out. The tool end got lodged in the chain stay so with a lot of playing around I finally got it to start moving, the only problem is that with moving the frame around trying to get that sucker out it has now lodged itself in one of the seat stays. I wish that I could leave it there, but I was able to get the tool where it moves up and down in the seat stay and with every movement of the frame it makes a god-awful rattling noise. Any suggestions...
Have you tried to guide it out with a stronger magnet? The magnet coming with routing kits are often in my experience quite weak.
-
Yes, the tool head/attachment gets down to the base of the stay and will not move pass that point. This is the piece that is lodged in the seat stay.
-
Well, my solution would be to shake the frame till it comes out. If it is not stuck in a place, it has to come out somehow.
-
Lol - you would think, but I have been shaking and banging on the frame every which way for better part of two hours with no luck. If I can't get it out I'm thinking that I'll get some of those black magnetic strips, and attach one to the inside of the seat stay to just hold the piece in place so it doesn't rattle around.
I feel like you may be able to get a flexible mechanic grabber through the BB and down the seat stay to grab the tool? Worth a shot.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-flexible-mechanical-pick-up-tool-24-in-0581657p.html?utm_content=shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20278780488&gbraid=0AAAAADojZphUunpXnI3IfinpklYJ_o7qT&gclid=Cj0KCQjw79nUBhCgARIsADSHka0kRHkZGadRDHIUyn-segMnohhqDHQudPch5jNqusdhnlgB8F9U9YcaAtDUEALw_wcB#store=290
-
I feel like you may be able to get a flexible mechanic grabber through the BB and down the seat stay to grab the tool? Worth a shot.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-flexible-mechanical-pick-up-tool-24-in-0581657p.html?utm_content=shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20278780488&gbraid=0AAAAADojZphUunpXnI3IfinpklYJ_o7qT&gclid=Cj0KCQjw79nUBhCgARIsADSHka0kRHkZGadRDHIUyn-segMnohhqDHQudPch5jNqusdhnlgB8F9U9YcaAtDUEALw_wcB#store=290
I just shook the frame so much that the piece is lodged in the lower half of seat stay, it's in there tight enough that it's not rattling around. I'm almost tempted to just leave it like that, but with my luck the first bump that I hit will knock it loose again... As to your suggestion, I ordered a set of those grabbers and a super strong fishing magnet off of Amazon about minuets ago.
-
If you do have some clothes hanger like these (https://www.amazon.de/Amazon-Basics-Kleiderb%C3%BCgel-Edelstahl-Verchromt/dp/B07Y3B6S4F/ref=asc_df_B07Y3B6S4F?mcid=d9736326b4ac3210a5d1944c8740d328&language=de_DE&tag=detxtgostdde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=719118755665&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9666752629898701834&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9181090&hvtargid=pla-906382239559&gad_source=1&th=1), you can twist them into a long metal thingy that could help you loosen it up. I used this when part of the steerer tube expander fell down the fork and wedged itself in there.
Good luck man, you will get it out somehow, I believe in you :).
-
If you do have some clothes hanger like these (https://www.amazon.de/Amazon-Basics-Kleiderb%C3%BCgel-Edelstahl-Verchromt/dp/B07Y3B6S4F/ref=asc_df_B07Y3B6S4F?mcid=d9736326b4ac3210a5d1944c8740d328&language=de_DE&tag=detxtgostdde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=719118755665&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9666752629898701834&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9181090&hvtargid=pla-906382239559&gad_source=1&th=1), you can twist them into a long metal thingy that could help you loosen it up. I used this when part of the steerer tube expander fell down the fork and wedged itself in there.
Good luck man, you will get it out somehow, I believe in you :).
Great Idea - I hadn't thought of a wire hanger!!! I will have to go out and buy some, we got rid of all that type of hangers decades ago.
-
Oh thats the next level from my mistake.
I ran the DI2 wire with the tool through the chain stays and it clogged up.
I pulled my tool an the wire out again and managed to wedge 1 or 2 of those anti-slips/cable tie thingys in the chain stay.
I guess thats is a point where the rear of the bike gets glued to the main frame. (Chain stay to main bike frame)
I tried to pull them out with different tools for 20 min... then though, well fu** it, they stay in ;D
-
I'm going try to remove it with a wire hanger. If that doesn't work, I'm hoping that I can lodge it in the so tight that it never comes out.
-
Hello all,
500 km into my build and, like many other people, I have a creaking / squeaking sound. Every time I went above 200 W, the sound appeared with every pedal stroke.
I replaced the stock Gineyea BB with a SRAM one. It did reduce the noise a bit, but the squeaking was still there. I tried multiple things, and today I finally found the culprit: it is the door of the storage compartment.
Even though I have the v3 door, my guess is that under high power, the downtube flexes slightly and the door rubs against it.
Anyway, for anyone experiencing a creaking sound, try cycling without the door. It was very obvious in my case. I will try putting some tape all around the edges of the door and see if it improves the situation.
-
Hi,
I haven't bought the frame yet, but I plan to install TRP Spyre SL calipers with a 160mm rotor in the front and a 140mm rotor in the rear. Do I need adapters? What size screws should I buy to install my calipers?
Thank you.
-
along with the greasing the seatpost clamp sliding parts (and carbon past on the friction parts of the seatpost) to prevent post slippage, probably the next recommended thing every LCR018 owner with downtube storage should do is add a thin layer of stereo wire tape to the edges of the downtube storage door. i even put a tiny piece under the upper tab to take away any vibration.
v3's latching mechanism, closed in the down position, shouldn't let the cover shake loose and come off, but the additional tape just takes up the minor amount of slack between the door and frame and reduces rattling noises over uneven pavement (or in some folks' cases flex in the frame). the door should come that way from the factory. maybe LC should consider a v4...
Hello all,
500 km into my build and, like many other people, I have a creaking / squeaking sound. Every time I went above 200 W, the sound appeared with every pedal stroke.
I replaced the stock Gineyea BB with a SRAM one. It did reduce the noise a bit, but the squeaking was still there. I tried multiple things, and today I finally found the culprit: it is the door of the storage compartment.
Even though I have the v3 door, my guess is that under high power, the downtube flexes slightly and the door rubs against it.
Anyway, for anyone experiencing a creaking sound, try cycling without the door. It was very obvious in my case. I will try putting some tape all around the edges of the door and see if it improves the situation.
-
Hi,
I haven't bought the frame yet, but I plan to install TRP Spyre SL calipers with a 160mm rotor in the front and a 140mm rotor in the rear. Do I need adapters? What size screws should I buy to install my calipers?
Thank you.
the caliper istallation guide is on the LC website and in the following post. bit of search required on your side
The LC web page is showing adapters being used for both front and rear brake caliper installations.
why install a mechanically actuated brake caliper on such a frame at all? such stuff is used on cheap triban bikes. no comparison to hydraulic braking. and running those hoses through the handlebar will prob leave u with reduced breaking performance
-
Hello all,
500 km into my build and, like many other people, I have a creaking / squeaking sound. Every time I went above 200 W, the sound appeared with every pedal stroke.
I replaced the stock Gineyea BB with a SRAM one. It did reduce the noise a bit, but the squeaking was still there. I tried multiple things, and today I finally found the culprit: it is the door of the storage compartment.
Even though I have the v3 door, my guess is that under high power, the downtube flexes slightly and the door rubs against it.
Anyway, for anyone experiencing a creaking sound, try cycling without the door. It was very obvious in my case. I will try putting some tape all around the edges of the door and see if it improves the situation.
I have exactly the same Problem :(
I just can't seem to get to the bottom of this creaking issue.
At first, I thought the creaking was coming from the stock bottom bracket, so I swapped it for a new Kactus BB; the creaking improved slightly.
Then I installed a new Praxis Works BB, and the creaking improved significantly—now it only happens when putting down over 200W of power on the drive side, specifically when the crank arm is between the 3 and 6 o'clock positions.
In the meantime, I swapped out the pedals and crank arms to rule out other potential causes.
After replacing everything and seeing a major improvement with the Praxis Works BB, I decided to try a one-piece BB and ordered the Bicone BB.
Unfortunately, the creaking persists—still occurring between the 3 and 6 o'clock crank positions when putting out over 200W, even when I'm out of the saddle.
I don't think it's coming from the storage door, because I've already tried it without the down tube storage door and without the bag.
-
the caliper istallation guide is on the LC website and in the following post. bit of search required on your side
Yeah but I'm a bit confused about the rear installation. And you confirm the screws aren't included with the frame, I have to buy its?
Moreover, for rear mounting, the C screws are not shown in this illustration.
-
I'm going try to remove it with a wire hanger. If that doesn't work, I'm hoping that I can lodge it in the so tight that it never comes out.
Do we have some news?
-
Yeah but I'm a bit confused about the rear installation. And you confirm the screws aren't included with the frame, I have to buy its?
My Shimano Calipers came with four screws (two different lengths).
-
Do we have some news?
Wire hangers are nowhere to be found, I even asked a couple of my neighbors. I will have to go to the store and buy a pack...
-
If you're in the US, the dry cleaner may give you one if you ask nicely. Or you can look in their dumpster.
-
Even if you are not US, this is a good suggestion- I always get one if I pick up stuff at the dry cleaner.
-
Anyone a link to plugs for the unused wholes in the frame if AXS is used, derailleur and front derailleur? Ordered two kinds, both don't fit, so a proven solution would really help me ... Thanks!
-
Anyone a link to plugs for the unused wholes in the frame if AXS is used, derailleur and front derailleur? Ordered two kinds, both don't fit, so a proven solution would really help me ... Thanks!
common recommendation for this in other threads is a product called Sugru by tesa.
-
Anyone else seeing extended shipping times?
- June 26- told shipping estimate was mid-July to early August
- July 5 - order placed
- July 6 told 2-4 weeks frame construction, 2-4 weeks painting
- September 3 - told decals are under development and painting will start “afterwards”
They offered two bottle cages, which seems not amazing for the delays..
-
Anyone a link to plugs for the unused wholes in the frame if AXS is used, derailleur and front derailleur? Ordered two kinds, both don't fit, so a proven solution would really help me ... Thanks!
Didn't you get them with the frame from LC?
-
I paid for my order on July 1, and the delivery times provided by LC are:
5-6 weeks frame construction
3-4 weeks painting
Last week, I received a message saying that the frame is in the final stage of painting.
I hope it will be shipped soon
-
Didn't you get them with the frame from LC?
No. And I know many others who have not. (Actually, I do not know anyone who got them from LC. You?)
-
My frame came with plugs and grommets. These are my leftovers after assembly. I got 3 of the small grommets, 2 of which are on the bike, and 3 of the plugs, 1 of which is on the bike.
I received my frame on June 30, 2026 (ordered April 9).
-
Ah, lucky you. Could you maybe measure the diameter for me?
-
No. And I know many others who have not. (Actually, I do not know anyone who got them from LC. You?)
My frame came with all the grommet/plugs too.
-
Ah, lucky you. Could you maybe measure the diameter for me?
Top cap of the plug is 10.5 mm and narrowest part of the plug is 7 mm. I have one in my unused mechanical cable hole. But it may be too large for the smaller electronic cable holes for the front and rear mechs. I did not try them on those holes as I run Shimano di2 cables.
P.S. 9 Sept 26 I cleaned the bike today and measured the plug I that used for the larger of the two front derailleur holes on the seat tube. The cap on that one is 9mm in diameter and stalk is 7mm.
-
Hi LCR-Community! I have ready the hole thread about this frame. Many thanks for all these information I can find here. Maybe someone can help me. I'm struggling with myself about the frame color. so many choices are not always good. ;) So I have a question about the raw carbon look with glossy finish. Is it possible to see the carbon pattern on all parts or look it mostly black? On the most photos the painting reflects the light to much, so I can not see.
Many thanks in advance!
-
UD gloss Will show Carbon, you can select a tainted clear coat for similar carbon see through but even but even better/deeper IMHO
-
Hi LCR-Community! I have ready the hole thread about this frame. Many thanks for all these information I can find here. Maybe someone can help me. I'm struggling with myself about the frame color. so many choices are not always good. ;) So I have a question about the raw carbon look with glossy finish. Is it possible to see the carbon pattern on all parts or look it mostly black? On the most photos the painting reflects the light to much, so I can not see.
Many thanks in advance!
I have the raw carbon with glossy finish, and on my frame it is mostly black with some areas where you can see the carbon weave. I think that it is the best looking frame that I currently own.
-
Hi LCR-Community! I have ready the hole thread about this frame. Many thanks for all these information I can find here. Maybe someone can help me. I'm struggling with myself about the frame color. so many choices are not always good. ;) So I have a question about the raw carbon look with glossy finish. Is it possible to see the carbon pattern on all parts or look it mostly black? On the most photos the painting reflects the light to much, so I can not see.
Many thanks in advance!
That is mine. You can see Carbon in some areas, however I'd you're expecting something like a Time then you would be disappointed. I really like the finish though and at the time I ordered it was effectively a no cost option!
-
Front 160 without adapter, according to LightCarbon website, right?
Shimano comes with adapter you can turn depending on 160 or 140 rotors. Rear needed adapter for 160.
-
Now mine is on the trainer. I have more creaking there than outside. And it is the seatpost as most go away when I stand
-
Shimano comes with adapter you can turn depending on 160 or 140 rotors. Rear needed adapter for 160.
The clear gloss finish is very nice. What size is this frame?
Did you request the lightcarbon sticker, or is it the default?
-
The clear gloss finish is very nice. What size is this frame?
Did you request the lightcarbon sticker, or is it the default?
Mine is 58cm.
Yes had to pay for the decals - I originally wanted the mirror finish, however these go on top of the lacquer so went for these that are underneath the gloss.
-
Mine is 58cm.
Yes had to pay for the decals - I originally wanted the mirror finish, however these go on top of the lacquer so went for these that are underneath the gloss.
We're eagerly awaiting photos of the finished assembly. Bye!
-
Hi! Anyone in EU has leftover spare frameset door - the old version? I broke mine:(
Thanks a lot!
-
FYI - i contacted Tailfin to figure out if their rack fits on the LCR018-D.
Here is their response:
"From the details you provided, your bike will require the following parts:
Axle: Universal Thru Axle (using the 1.0mm part - included)
Adaptor: UDH Adaptor and Tailfin UDH Hanger (both included with the Tailfin UDH Adaptor Set)
Please replace the original hanger with the tailfin UDH hanger so the UDH Adaptor bolt will fit!"
-
Is the 3 bolt computer mount for the hbr17 handlebar proprietary ? Are there any other 3rd party solutions or can i adapt somehow a 2 bolt mount if the basic plastic one breaks?
-
Is the 3 bolt computer mount for the hbr17 handlebar proprietary ? Are there any other 3rd party solutions or can i adapt somehow a 2 bolt mount if the basic plastic one breaks?
A while ago I posted my workaround for using a generic 2-bolt adapter: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg103168.html#msg103168 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5970.msg103168.html#msg103168)
This is hacky, but it has worked for me without any problems.
-
Is it possible to buy the just the fork, and with mounts? I'm looking at the forks on the LC website and can't see a clear and obvious one for the 018-D.
-
Hi all
my first post here, building a LCR018D this winter just to have something different.
I know it's all personal preference, etc etc, but always curious as to views on custom paint.
I had Gemini do mock-ups of some colour options. 1) Pearl-white fade to metallic green 2)Pearl white fade to metallic red 3) metallic green to metallic red.
Any thoughts. The green-red is a bit of fun. I am in Ireland, and anyone familiar might guess what that colour scheme means.
Thanks
-
I think its not look related. Its just semi-good engineering.
If you engineer right... luck is not needed.
I will ask. I am not willig to pay, as i expect it to work properly out of the box. Will see what they say.
I am not sure if that would change anything but the friction of the screw in the threads => therefore putting down more clamping force.
I did something similar to that. See below.
The problem is not that the screw gets loose, the problem is, that the clamping force is too low to keep the seatpost in place.
But if that also doesnt work, why not add Loctite. Will be the next thing on my list of trial and error.
So I took of my seatpost today. You can see the stripped paint, and clamping marks.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/7zl4bmi3.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/7zl4bmi3_jpg.htm)
Picture of my clamp
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/iia4yz3d.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/iia4yz3d_jpg.htm)
I greased the sliding angles, so the clamp should slide better and provide a stronger clamp, by using the same torque.
(https://s1.directupload.eu/images/260831/temp/yy4ycpkb.jpg) (https://www.directupload.eu/file/d/9393/yy4ycpkb_jpg.htm)
Any update to this?
Interested to find a solution to the seatpost slipping issue.
-
Finally got mine built up, and got my brother's to build up next.
58cm frame, raw carbon matte finish
36cm LC bars
XMCS 50mm (26mm internal) wheels
35c conti GP5000S tubeless
SRAM Force E1 2x12
Ultegra rotors (because I just don't get on with sram rotors)
Ryet saddle
Elite carbon cages
I've got a zero offset seatpost on the way, and some silver LightCarbon decals that I might put on.
Frame is really nice for sure, definitely the most premium feeling and looking chinese frame i've owned.
Not sure if I like the bars yet and kinda wish I used my leftover Balugoe bars. Especially the computer mount is a bit shit, wobbly and angles the computer away from me so there's a glare - any alternatives? (EDIT just read the post 3 posts up!)
Also, I've spent the summer riding my Tideace gravel bike mostly on-road with 13s Force, and I'm kinda regretting not getting 1x13 for this bike.
-
Finally got mine built up, and got my brother's to build up next.
58cm frame, raw carbon matte finish
36cm LC bars
XMCS 50mm (26mm internal) wheels
35c conti GP5000S tubeless
SRAM Force E1 2x12
Ultegra rotors (because I just don't get on with sram rotors)
Ryet saddle
Elite carbon cages
I've got a zero offset seatpost on the way, and some silver LightCarbon decals that I might put on.
Frame is really nice for sure, definitely the most premium feeling and looking chinese frame i've owned.
Not sure if I like the bars yet and kinda wish I used my leftover Balugoe bars. Especially the computer mount is a bit shit, wobbly and angles the computer away from me so there's a glare - any alternatives? (EDIT just read the post 3 posts up!)
Also, I've spent the summer riding my Tideace gravel bike mostly on-road with 13s Force, and I'm kinda regretting not getting 1x13 for this bike.
Very nice! May I ask how tall you are? And what saddle height do you ride at? Thanks.
-
Is it possible to buy the just the fork, and with mounts? I'm looking at the forks on the LC website and can't see a clear and obvious one for the 018-D.
You should be able to get just the fork. Hit them via mail or watsapp.
-
I’m looking for a sanity check before I attempt a second cut; I measured three times accounting for the lip on the compression plug and the underside of the topcap, I cut once using a ZTTO Carbon Fiber Tube Cutting Saw Guide Tool and carbon bladed hack saw. I’m now trying to figure out 1) how the cut came out crooked, and 2) how to make sure that the second attempt does not end up the same way.
Update: I mounted the piece that from the fork with the cut end a little less than flush with the edge of the Zitto tool, and the cut looks pretty straight. So why does the fork end (Compression Plug) sit high on one end and high on the other end, I've checked that the bearings are install curved edge in towards each other, and that the other parts are installed correctly.
It's not you. The top of the stem is angled, not flat. The cap that screws on is also angled, not flat, so everything evens out in the end. Since you used a cutting guide, you likely cut the steerer tube straight.
-
Very nice! May I ask how tall you are? And what saddle height do you ride at? Thanks.
Cheers yeah I’m 188cm my saddle height is around 800mm
-
Those of you who preordered the frame before it was released, how accurate did LCs estimated time of production/delivery end up being? I am asking to get an idea of where to put my own expectations of delivery for the LCR020.
-
It's not you. The top of the stem is angled, not flat. The cap that screws on is also angled, not flat, so everything evens out in the end. Since you used a cutting guide, you likely cut the steerer tube straight.
I removed the post because I figured out what was causing the issue; there was a thin metal micro washer on the fork race that I had not noticed. I removed the front caliper brake hose at the caliper, removed the fork, removed the washer, re-assembled everything, and it is now fine...
-
Cheers yeah I’m 188cm my saddle height is around 800mm
ok you're more or less like me, I have slightly longer legs, I'm 186cm tall and I pedal at 830mm from the bottom bracket to the saddle (supporting the sit bones)
this frame is ok because it has a long head tube.
I see that you still have a lot of thickness underneath though.
Haven't you thought about opting for a handlebar riser? there is an interesting discussion where a model is indicated which in my opinion would be aesthetically fantastic, I think I will do so.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DckQf1-khwe/?img_index=1
-
ok you're more or less like me, I have slightly longer legs, I'm 186cm tall and I pedal at 830mm from the bottom bracket to the saddle (supporting the sit bones)
this frame is ok because it has a long head tube.
I see that you still have a lot of thickness underneath though.
Haven't you thought about opting for a handlebar riser? there is an interesting discussion where a model is indicated which in my opinion would be aesthetically fantastic, I think I will do so.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DckQf1-khwe/?img_index=1
Thickness do you mean spacers? yeah I do, if I didn't then the total stack would be the same or less than what I was running on my SPCycle R088.
I have definitely considered a riser bar but couldn't find one that ticked the right boxes.
In other news, my saddle rail snapped today on its 2nd ride. I have the same saddle on my gravel bike with no issues. (Ryet 3D RT06S 145mm https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006893754548.html) - raised a dispute and got a refund.
-
KC, Did you ever receive your tracking number for the frameset from LC?
I did recieve a tracking number and the package itself a couple of business days later. Since then I've built up the frame, though like many have experienced here, the stock BB that it comes with creaks, so I might have to switch it in the near future.
I noticed that as it creaked, the crank side-to-side play have increased so I readjusted it.
Haven't had any issues with seatpost slip either, it is torque to 8Nm spec.
-
I removed the post because I figured out what was causing the issue; there was a thin metal micro washer on the fork race that I had not noticed. I removed the front caliper brake hose at the caliper, removed the fork, removed the washer, re-assembled everything, and it is now fine...
I'm confused. Micro washer at the fork race? Where did it come from? How did it get there without you noticing? Is it the seal from the bottom headset bearing?
-
I'm confused. Micro washer at the fork race? Where did it come from? How did it get there without you noticing? Is it the seal from the bottom headset bearing?
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material. So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings. Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...
-
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material. So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings. Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...
indeed looks like it could be one of the headset bearing seals.
I'd take the handlebar off and check the headset bearings if one of the seals is missing. if bearing is not sealed on one side it might not take long till the bearing is taking its toll (dirt, corrosion, wash out)
-
The item that I found was located around the base of the fork (race may not have been the correct term to use). I thought that I looked at the lower headset bearing before reinstalling everything, and I don't remember seeing anything unusual. Attached is a photo of what the item looks like, on closer inspection it does look like it is the seal as one side is a rubber type material. So here is the dilemma, the build is complete with the everything working fine so do I tear everything apart, reattach the seal and hope that the tight steering does not come back, or do I run it until the bearings go bad and just replace the upper/lower with better quality stainless steel bearings. Note that seal edges look torn, so maybe the smart way ahead is to just order the replacement bearings and be done with it...
Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!
-
Any update to this? Interested to find a solution to the seatpost slipping issue.
Hi yes, good news.
After that mess with carbon paste and greasing the sliding surfaces (the tightening screw is yet to be greased), my system seems to be stable for now.
I did my first fun race this weekend in Luxemburg at "la Charly Gaul". It was ~112km and i hit a least one really big hole in the street.
I though, ok that was too much, I bet it slipped now.
After the race I checked the hight and it was still were it should be.Finally... BUT To be honest, before the race it re-tightened to 11Nm.
I would prefere to only do 8Nm and stay in spec.
For the creaking, i have to check that again. When riding along with so many people, its generally louder all the time.
-
Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!
I don't ride in the rain (if I can help it), and the bike will not see gravel by choice. I might just let it ride for now (pun intended), if/when I see any downtime on the LCR I'll ride one of my other bikes until I replace the bearing. With that seal 1) having fallen out in the first place, 2) being torn in one area, and 3) being a little warped, it might be a good idea to just replace the bearing anyway rather than trying to refit that seal back on the original bearing...
-
word of warning because while i do think v3 of the in-frame storage is an improvement and there is definitely a chance of user error, but i did have my v3 door come off on a recent ride.
factors:
- my local roads are crappy with lots of ruts, uneven pavement transitions, etc.
- 1st time using an elite stainless steel double walled water bottle. it works well keeping water cold, but it's larger size and weight filled with water and ice undoubtedly put more torque on the cage and storage door, than a smaller plastic water bottle i usually use
- i may have unlatched the door lever from closed to open while cleaning the bike after a previous ride (maybe the microfiber caught the door lever and pulled it away from the down position?). or perhaps the additional vibration induced by the heavier bottle was enough to jostle the lever to the open position. i say this because there were warnings earlier in the ride of rattling noise coming from the area when going over bumps. i hadn't had rattling after the "fixes" of applying extra speaker wire tape to the edges of the door for a tighter seal. so i should've stopped to check for loosening of the door when i heard it. i just assumed it was rattling of the stainless steel bottle against the bottle cage, not a open/loose storage door.
luckily main damage was just a scratched up stainless steel bottle (looks like shit now tbh). the storage door itself had some barely noticeable scratches on the edges i touched up with a sharpie.
if i had to do it over, would i still want the downtube storage? kind of am leaning towards "no" in it's current implementation.
i'm hesitant to use a heavy bottle in the downtube cage with the storage door now. the seat tube cage is, of course, solid. LC just needs a more fool-proof, vibration-proof solution than their current method, that clearly other brands have figured out. now, every ride, i will be yanking and double checking there's no looseness with the door in every direction.
-
"LC just needs a more fool-proof, vibration-proof solution than their current method, that clearly other brands have figured out". Maybe, maybe not. As you have stated that you may have inadvertently opened the latch during cleaning. As a Community Service a good test would be to recreate the same situation (same water bottle filled with water/ice, riding over the same roads) with a confirmed closed/locked latch and see if you get the rattling noise and a loose cover again. I'm curious if the problem is 1) latch/cover design, 2) unsecure latch cover, or 3) overloaded latch/cover...
-
i may do that experiment if i'm bored enough with my free time.
but my statement stands. if the latch wasn't the way it is where a rag could slide it open, the risk would less and thus more idiot/fool-proof. happy to admit to being the idiot/fool.
"LC just needs a more fool-proof, vibration-proof solution than their current method, that clearly other brands have figured out". Maybe, maybe not. As you have stated that you may have inadvertently opened the latch during cleaning. As a Community Service a good test would be to recreate the same situation (same water bottle filled with water/ice, riding over the same roads) with a confirmed closed/locked latch and see if you get the rattling noise and a loose cover again. I'm curious if the problem is 1) latch/cover design, 2) unsecure latch cover, or 3) overloaded latch/cover...
-
i may do that experiment if i'm bored enough with my free time.
but my statement stands. if the latch wasn't the way it is where a rag could slide it open, the risk would less and thus more idiot/fool-proof. happy to admit to being the idiot/fool.
Lol - fair enough assessment. Based primarily on my build errors, that means that I will have to be extra careful when cleaning mine...
-
Has someone weighed in on how much a trap door in the down tube of a bike affects its riding characteristics / rigidity / durability?
I'm thinking that if i were to buy such a frame, i might order it w/o the door. One less thing that can go wrong, mostly.
-
Tough call. It's a lot of work to get to that bearing. I'd personally be tempted to wait until it goes bad. If you don't ride it in the rain, it might never go bad. On the other hand, if you do ride it in the rain, it might go bad immediately!
Even though I ordered a set of Hambini headset bearings to replace the stock ones, I decided "What the Hell, I have the time to reinstall that seal" (plus I was a little curious if the steering stiffness would return). Fork removed, seal reinstalled, adjustments made, and all is good - no play in the fork and no steering stiffness...
-
Let me preference my question with "This LCR-18D is my first build, so if my questions sound kind of dumb that's why". My LCR-018D build is finally complete, but I notice that when I try and place the storage bag in the compartment the fit is very tight. So here is my question: I used ZTTO Foam Sleeve around the hydraulic brake hose for the rear brake, which I ran from the head tube to the seat down tube. The sleeve has an external diameter of 11.5 mm, when viewing the inside of storage bag area the sleeve seems to take up quite a bit of room. For the folks who have the LCR-018D with the storage compartment, are you experiencing the same issue? Should I have tried finding smaller sleeving, or did I make the run to long?
-
I helped a friend build up hers with mechanical GRX and with 3 lots of foam cable covering the storage space is tiny.
-
Since you have easy access to the area I guess you could remove the foam lining there and tape down some thinner foamy stuff to the downtube itself. The bag will press down and secure the cables/hose.
-
Since you have easy access to the area I guess you could remove the foam lining there and tape down some thinner foamy stuff to the downtube itself. The bag will press down and secure the cables/hose.
Thanks, not a bad idea...
-
Let me preference my question with "This LCR-18D is my first build, so if my questions sound kind of dumb that's why". My LCR-018D build is finally complete, but I notice that when I try and place the storage bag in the compartment the fit is very tight. So here is my question: I used ZTTO Foam Sleeve around the hydraulic brake hose for the rear brake, which I ran from the head tube to the seat down tube. The sleeve has an external diameter of 11.5 mm, when viewing the inside of storage bag area the sleeve seems to take up quite a bit of room. For the folks who have the LCR-018D with the storage compartment, are you experiencing the same issue? Should I have tried finding smaller sleeving, or did I make the run to long?
I installed the same orange foam sleeve and have the same issue. I can get the bag to slide in with gentle nudging, but the orange sleeve certainly reduces the amount of stuff that you can squeeze into the bag. However, you can also store other things above the bag in the down tube, like a tire tube.
-
Cut the tubing where the storage area is. You can easily do this with it in place. Then use a drop of glue above and below to fix it to the tube so the top section doesn't slide down. Because the foam is so thick it likely won't make contact in the area where the foam is removed.
-
Cut the tubing where the storage area is. You can easily do this with it in place. Then use a drop of glue above and below to fix it to the tube so the top section doesn't slide down. Because the foam is so thick it likely won't make contact in the area where the foam is removed.
Thanks, based on the recommendations I think the first thing to try is removing the form in the compartment and see if the pressure from the storage bags (I have two) is enough to keep the cable from rattling around when riding. As for the foam sliding down, the stuff was very tight getting on the cable in the first place so it will probably stay in place. But if it looks like it might start sliding, I think I'll just use a small tie strap to secure it in place...